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## CHAPTER VII

THE GROWING OF THE ORNAMENTAL PLANTS--THE CLASSES OF PLANTS, AND LISTS

In choosing the kinds of plants for the main grounds the gardener should carefully distinguish two categories,--those plants to compose the structural masses and design of the place, and those that are to be used for mere ornament. The chief merits to be sought in the former are good foliage, pleasing form and habit, shades of green, and color of winter twigs. The merits of the latter lie chiefly in flowers or colored foliage.

Each of these categories should be again divided. Of plants for the main design, there might be discussion of trees for a windbreak, of trees for shade; of shrubs for screens or heavy plantings, for the lighter side plantings, and for incidental masses about the buildings or on the lawn; and perhaps also of vines for porches and arbors, of evergreens, of hedges, and of the heavier herbaceous masses.

Plants used for mere embellishment or ornamentation may be ranged again into categories for permanent herbaceous borders, for display beds, ribbon edgings, annuals for temporary effects, foliage beds, plants for adding color and emphasis to the shrubbery masses, plants desired to be grown as single specimens or as curiosities, and plants for porch-boxes and window-gardens.

Having now briefly suggested the uses of the plants, we shall proceed to discuss them in reference to the making of home grounds. This chapter contains a brief consideration of:

- Planting for immediate effect,
- The use of "foliage" trees and shrubs,
- Windbreaks and screens,
- The making of hedges,
- The borders,
- The flower-beds,
- Aquatic and bog plants,
- Rockeries and alpine plants;

and then it runs into nine sub-chapters, as follows:--

- 1. Plants for carpet-beds, p. 234;
- 2. The annual plants, p. 241;
- 3. Hardy herbaceous perennials, p. 260;
- 4. Bulbs and tubers, p. 281;
- 5. The shrubbery, p. 290;
- 6. Climbing plants, p. 307;
- 7. Trees for lawns and streets, p. 319;
- 8. Coniferous evergreen trees and shrubs, p. 331;
- 9. Window-gardens, p. 336.

And then, in Chapter VIII, the particular cultures of plants needing special care are briefly discussed.

Planting for immediate effect.

It is always legitimate, and, in fact, desirable, to plant for immediate effect. One may plant very thickly of rapid-growing trees and shrubs for this purpose. It is a fact, however, that very rapid-growing trees usually lack strong or artistic character. Other and better trees should be planted with them and the featureless kinds be gradually removed. (Page 41.)

The effect of a new place may be greatly heightened by a dexterous use of annuals and other herbaceous stuff in the shrub plantations. Until the shrubbery covers the ground, temporary plants may be grown among them. Subtropical beds may give a very desirable temporary finish to places that are pretentious enough to make them seem in keeping.

Very rough, hard, sterile, and stony banks may sometimes be covered with coltsfoot (Tussilago Farfara), sacaline, Rubus cratœgifotius, comfrey, and various wild growths that persist in similar places in the neighborhood.

However much the planter may plan for immediate effects, the beauty of trees and shrubs comes with maturity and age, and this beauty is often delayed, or even obliterated, by shearing and excessive heading-back. At first, bushes are stiff and erect, but when they attain their full character, they usually droop or roll over to meet the sward. Some bushes make mounds of green much sooner than others that may even be closely related. Thus the common yellow-bell (Forsythia virdissima) remains stiff and hard for some years, whereas F. suspensa makes a rolling heap of green in two or three years. Quick informal effects can also be secured by the use of Hall's Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera Halliana of nurserymen), an evergreen in the South, and holding its leaves until midwinter or later in the North. It may be used for covering a rock, a pile of rubbish, a stump (Fig. 236), to fill a corner against a foundation, or it may be trained on a porch or arbor. There is a form with yellow-veined leaves. Rosa Wichuraiana and some of the dewberries are useful for covering rough places.

Many vines that are commonly used for porches and arbors may be employed also for the borders of shrub-plantations and for covering rough banks and rocks, quickly giving a finish to the cruder parts of the place. Such vines, among others, are various kinds of clematis, Virginia creeper, actinidia, akebia, trumpet creeper, periploca, bitter-sweet (Solanum Dulcamara), wax-work (Celastrus scandens).

Of course, very good immediate effects may be secured by very close planting (page 222), but the homesteader must not neglect to thin out these plantations when the time comes.

The use of "foliage" trees and shrubs.

There is always a temptation to use too freely of the trees and shrubs that are characterized by abnormal or striking foliage. The subject is discussed in its artistic bearings on pages 40 and 41.

As a rule, the yellow-leaved, spotted-leaved, variegated, and other abnormal "foliage" plants are less hardy and less reliable than the green-leaved or "natural" forms. They usually require more care, if they are kept in vigorous and seemly condition. Some marked exceptions to this are noted in the lists of trees and shrubs.

There are some plants of striking foliage, however, that are perfectly reliable, but they are usually not of the "horticultural variety" class, their characteristics being normal to the species. Some of the silver or white-leaved poplars, for example, produce the most striking contrasts of foliage, particularly if set near darker trees, and for this reason they are much desired by many planters. Bolle's poplar (Populus Bolleana of the nurseries) is one of the best of these trees. Its habit is something like that of the Lombardy. The upper surface of the deeply lobed leaves is dark dull green, while the under surface is almost snowy white. Such emphatic trees as this should generally be partially obscured by planting them amongst other trees, so that they appear to mix with the other foliage; or else they should be seen at some distance. Other varieties of the common white poplar or abele are occasionally useful, although most of them sprout badly and may become a nuisance. But the planting of these immodest trees is so likely to be overdone that one scarcely dare recommend them, although, when skillfully used, they may be made to produce most excellent effects. If any reader has a particular fondness for trees of this class (or any others with woolly-white foliage) and if he has only an ordinary city lot or farm-yard to ornament, let him reduce his desires to a single tree, and then if that tree is planted in the interior of a group of other trees, no harm can result.

Windbreaks and screens.

A shelter-belt for the home grounds is often placed at the extreme edge of the home yard, toward the heaviest or prevailing wind. It may be a dense plantation of evergreens. If so, the Norway spruce is one of the best for general purposes in the northeastern states. For a lower belt the arbor vitae is excellent. Some of the pines, as the Scotch or Austrian, and the native white pine, are also to be advised, particularly if the belt is at some distance from the residence. As a rule, the coarser the tree the farther it should be placed from the house.

The common deciduous trees of the region (as elm, maple, box-elder) may be planted in a row or rows for windbreaks. Good temporary shelter belts are secured by poplars and large willows. On the prairies and far north the laurel willow (Salix laurifolia of the trade) is excellent. Where snow blows very badly, two lines of breaks may be planted three to six rods apart, so that the inclosed lane may catch the drift; this method is employed in prairie regions.

Persons may desire to use the break as a screen to hide undesirable objects. If these objects are of a permanent character, as a barn or an unkempt property, evergreen trees should be used. For temporary screens, any of the very large-growing herbaceous plants may be employed. Very excellent subjects are sunflowers, the large-growing nicotianas, castor beans, large varieties of Indian corn, and plants of like growth. Excellent screens are sometimes made with vines on a trellis.

Very efficient summer screens may be made with ailanthus, paulownia, basswood, sumac, and other plants that tend to throw up very vigorous shoots from the base. After these plants have been set a year or two, they are cut back nearly to the ground in winter or spring, and strong shoots are thrown up with great luxuriance during the summer, giving a dense screen and presenting a semi-tropical effect. For such purposes, the roots should be planted only two or three feet apart. If, after a time, the roots become so crowded that the shoots are weak, some of the plants may be removed. Top-dressing the area every fall with manure will tend to make the ground rich enough to afford a very heavy summer growth. (See Fig. 50.)

The making of hedges.

Hedges are much less used in this country than in Europe, and for several reasons. Our climate is dry, and most hedges do not thrive so well here as there; labor is high-priced, and the trimming is therefore likely to be neglected; our farms are so large that much fencing is required; timber and wire are cheaper than live hedges.

However, hedges are used with good effect about the home grounds. In order to secure a good ornamental hedge, it is necessary to have a thoroughly well-prepared deep soil, to set the plants close, and to shear them at least twice every year. For evergreen hedges the most serviceable plant in general is the arbor vitae. The plants may be set at distances of 1 to 2-1/2 feet apart. For coarser hedges, the Norway spruce is used; and for still coarser ones, the Scotch and Austrian pines. In California the staple conifer hedge is made of Monterey cypress. For choice evergreen hedges about the grounds, particularly outside the northern states, some of the retinosporas are very useful. One of the most satisfactory of all coniferous plants for hedges is the common hemlock, which stands shearing well and makes a very soft and pleasing mass. The plants may be set from 2 to 4 feet apart.

Other plants that hold their leaves and are good for hedges are the common box and the privets. Box hedges are the best for very low borders about walks and flower-beds. The dwarf variety can be kept down to a height of 6 inches to a foot for any number of years. The larger-growing varieties make excellent hedges 3, 4, and 5 feet high. The ordinary privet or prim holds its leaves well into winter in the North. The so-called Californian privet holds its leaves rather longer and stands better along the seashore. The mahonia makes a low, loose hedge or edging in locations where it will thrive. Pyracantha is also to be recommended where hardy. In the southern states, nothing is better than Citrus trifoliata. This is hardy even farther north than Washington in very favored localities. In the South, Prunus Caroliniana is also used for hedges. Saltbush hedges are frequent in California.

For hedges of deciduous plants, the most common species are the buckthorn, Japan quince, the European hawthorn and other thorns, tamarix, osage orange, honey locust, and various kinds of roses. Osage orange has been the most used for farm hedges. For home grounds, Berberis Thunbergii makes an excellent free hedge; also Spiræa Thunbergii and other spireas. The common Rosa rugosa makes an attractive free hedge.

Hedges should be trimmed the year after they are set, although they should not be sheared very closely until they reach the desired or permanent height. Thereafter they should be cut into the desired form in spring or fall, or both. If the plants are allowed to grow for a year or two without trimming, they lose their lower leaves and become open and straggly. Osage orange and some other plants are plashed; that is, the plants are set at an angle rather than perpendicularly, and they are wired together obliquely in such a way that they make an impenetrable barrier just above the surface of the ground.

For closely clipped or sheared hedges, the best plants are arbor vitae, retinospora, hemlock, Norway spruce, privet, buckthorn, box, osage orange, pyracantha, Citrus trifoliata. The pyracantha (Pyracantha coccinea) is an evergreen shrub allied to cratægus, of which it is sometimes considered to be a species. It is also sometimes referred to cotoneaster. Although hardy in protected places in the North, it is essentially a bush of the middle and southern latitudes, and of California. It has persistent foliage and red berries. Var. Lalandi has orange-red berries.

The borders.

The word "border" is used to designate the heavy or continuous planting about the boundaries of a place, or along the walks and drives, or against the buildings, in distinction from planting on the lawn or in the interior spaces. A border receives different designations, depending on the kinds of plants that are grown therein: it may be a shrub-border, a flower-border, a hardy border for native and other plants, a vine-border, and the like.

There are three rules for the choosing of plants for a hardy border: choose (1) those that you like best, (2) those that are adapted to the climate and soil, (3) those that are in place or in keeping with that part of the grounds.

The earth for the border should be fertile. The whole ground should be plowed or spaded and the plants set irregularly in the space; or the back row may be set in a line. If the border is composed of shrubs, and is large, a horse cultivator may be run in and out between the plants for the first two or three years, since the shrubs will be set 2 to 4 feet apart. Ordinarily, however, the tilling is done with hand tools. After the plants are once established and the border is filled, it is best to dig up as little as possible, for the digging disturbs the roots and breaks the crowns. It is usually best to pull out the weeds and give the border a top-dressing each fall of well-rotted manure. If the ground is not very rich, an application of ashes or some commercial fertilizer may be given from time to time.

The border should be planted so thick as to allow the plants to run together, thereby giving one continuous effect. Most shrubs should be set 3 feet apart. Things as large as lilacs may go 4 feet and sometimes even more. Common herbaceous perennials, as bleeding heart, delphiniums, hollyhocks, and the like, should go from 12 to 18 inches. On the front edge of the border is a very excellent place for annual and tender flowering plants. Here, for example, one may make a fringe of asters, geraniums, coleus, or anything else he may choose. (Chap. II.)

Into the heavy borders about the boundaries of the place the autumn leaves will drift and afford an excellent mulch. If these borders are planted with shrubs, the leaves may be left there to decay, and not be raked off in the spring.

The general outline of the border facing the lawn should be more or less wavy or irregular, particularly if it is on the boundary of the place. Alongside a walk or drive the margins may follow the general directions of the walk or drive.

In making borders of perennial flowers the most satisfactory results are secured if a large clump of each kind or variety is grown. The herbaceous border is one of the most flexible parts of grounds, since it has no regular or formal design. Allow ample space for each perennial root,--often as much as three or four square feet,--and then if the space is not filled the first year or two, scatter over the area seeds of poppies, sweet peas, asters, gilias, alyssum, or other annuals. Figures 237-239, from Long ("Popular Gardening," i., 17, 18), suggest methods of making such borders. They are on a scale of ten feet to the inch. The entire surface is tilled, and the irregular diagrams designate the sizes of the clumps. The diagrams containing no names are to be filled with bulbs, annuals, and tender plants, if desired.

It must not be supposed, however, that one cannot have a border unless he has wide marginal spaces about his grounds. It is surprising how many things one can grow in an old fence. Perennials that grow in fence-rows in fields ought also to grow in similar boundaries on the home grounds. Some of garden annuals will thrive alongside a fence, particularly if the fence does not shut off too much light; and many vines (both perennial and annual) will cover it effectively. Among annuals, the large-seeded, quick-germinating, rapid-growing kinds will do best. Sunflower, sweet pea, morning glory, Japanese hop, zinnia, marigold, amaranths, four o'clock, are some of the kinds that will hold their own. If the effort is made to grow plants in such places, it is important to give them all the advantage possible early in the season, so that they will get well ahead of the grass and weeds. Spade up the ground all you can. Add a little quick-acting fertilizer. It is best to start the plants in pots or small boxes, so that they will be in advance of the weeds when they are set out.

The flower-beds.

We must remember to distinguish two uses of flowers,--their part in a landscape design or picture, and their part in a bed or separate garden for bloom. We now consider the flower-bed proper; and we include in the flower-bed such "foliage" plants as coleus, celosia, croton, and canna, although the main object of the flower-bed is to produce an abundance of flowers.

In making a flower-bed, see that the ground is well drained; that the subsoil is deep; that the land is in a mellow and friable condition, and that it is fertile. Each fall it may have a mulch of rotted manure or of leafmold, which may be spaded under deeply in the spring; or the land may be spaded and left rough in the fall, which is a good practice when the soil has much clay. Make the flower-beds as broad as possible, so that the roots of the grass running in from either side will not meet beneath the flowers and rob the beds of food and moisture. It is well to add a little commercial fertilizer each fall or spring.

Although it is well to emphasize making the ground fertile, it must be remembered (as indicated at the close of Chap. IV) that it can easily be made too rich for such plants as we desire to keep within certain stature and for those from which we wish an abundance of bloom in a short season. In over-rich ground, nasturtiums and some other plants not only "run to vine," but the bloom lacks brilliancy. When it is the leaf and vegetation that is wanted, there is little danger of making the ground too rich, although it is possible to make the plant so succulent and sappy that it becomes sprawly or breaks down; and other plants may be crippled and crowded out.

There are various styles of flower-planting. The mixed border, planted with various hardy plants, and extending along either side of the garden-walk, was popular years ago; and, with modifications in position, form, and extent, has been a popular attachment to home grounds during the past few years. To produce the best effects the plants should be set close enough to cover the ground; and the selection should be such as to afford a continuity of bloom.

The mixed flower-bed may contain only tender summer-blooming plants, in which case the bed, made up mostly of annuals, does not purport to express the entire season.

In distinction from the mixed or non-homogeneous flowerbed are the various forms of "bedding," in which plants are massed for the purpose of making a connected and homogeneous bold display of form or color. The bedding may be for the purpose of producing a strong effect of white, of blue, or of red; or of ribbon-like lines and edgings; or of luxurious and tropical expression; or to display boldly the features of a particular plant, as the tulip, the hyacinth, the chrysanthemum.

In ribbon-bedding, flowering or foliage plants are arranged in ribbon-like lines of harmoniously contrasting colors, commonly accompanying walks or drives, but also suitable for marking limits, or for the side borders. In such beds, as well as the others, the tallest plants will be placed at the back, if the bed is to be seen from one side only, and the lowest at the front. If it is to be seen from both sides, then the tallest will stand in the center.

A modification of the ribbon-line, bringing the contrasting colors together into masses forming circles or other patterns, is known as "massing," or "massing in color," and sometimes is spoken of as "carpet-bedding."

Carpet-bedding, however, belongs more properly to a style of bedding in which plants of dense, low, spreading habit--chiefly foliage plants, with leaves of different forms and colors--are planted in patterns not unlike carpets or rugs. It is often necessary to keep the plants sheared into limits. Carpet-bedding is such a specialized form of plant-growing that we shall treat of it separately.

Beds containing the large foliage plants, for producing tropical effects, are composed, in the main, of subjects that are allowed to develop naturally. In the lower and more orderly massing, the plants are arranged not only in circles and patterns according to habit and height, but the selection is such that some or all may be kept within proper limits by pinching or trimming. Circles or masses composed of flowering plants usually cannot be cut back at the top, so that the habit of the plants must be known before planting; and the plants must be placed in parts of the bed where trimming will not be necessary. They may be clipped at the sides, however, in case the branches or leaves of one mass or line in the pattern grow beyond their proper bounds.

The numbers of good annuals and perennials that may be used in flower-beds are now very large, and one may have a wide choice. Various lists from which one may choose are given at the end of this chapter; but special comment may be made on those most suitable for bedding, and in its modification in ribbon-work and sub-tropical massing.

Bedding effects.

Bedding is ordinarily a temporary species of planting; that is, the bed is filled anew each year. However, the term may be used to designate a permanent plantation in which the plants are heavily massed so as to give one continuous or emphatic display of form or color. Some of the best permanent bedding masses are made of the various hardy ornamental grasses, as eulalias, arundo, and the like. The color effects in bedding may be secured with flowers or with foliage.

Summer bedding is often made by perennial plants that are carried over from the preceding year, or better, that are propagated for that particular purpose in February and March. Such plants as geranium, coleus, alyssum, scarlet salvia, ageratum, and heliotrope may be used for these beds. It is a common practice to use geranium plants which are in bloom during the winter for bedding out during the summer, but such plants are tall and ungainly in form and have expended the greater part of their energies. It is better to propagate new plants by taking cuttings or slips late in the winter and setting out young fresh vigorous subjects. (Page 30.)

Some bedding is very temporary in its effect. Especially is this true of spring bedding, in which the subjects are tulips, hyacinths, crocuses, or other early-flowering bulbous plants. In this case, the ground is usually occupied later in the season by other plants. These later plants are commonly annuals, the seeds of which are sown amongst the bulbs as soon as the season is far enough advanced; or the annuals may be started in boxes and the plants transplanted amongst the bulbs as soon as the weather is fit.

Many of the low-growing and compact continuous-flowering annuals are excellent for summer bedding effects. There is a list of some useful material for this purpose on page 249.

Plants for subtropical effects (Plates IV and V).

The number of plants suitable to produce a semitropical mass or for the center or back of a group, which may be readily grown from seed, is limited. Some of the best kinds, are included below.

It will often be worth while to supplement these with others, to be had at the florists, such as caladiums, screw pines, Ficus elastica, araucarias, Musa Ensete, palms, dracenas, crotons, and others. Dahlias and tuberous begonias are also useful. About a pond the papyrus and lotus may be used.

Practically all the plants used for this style of gardening are liable to injury from winds, and therefore the beds should be placed in a protected situation. The palms and some other greenhouse stuff do better if partially shaded.

In the use of such plants, there are opportunities for the exercise of the nicest taste. A gross feeder, as the ricinus, in the midst of a bed of delicate annuals, is quite out of place; and a stately, royal-looking plant among humbler kinds often makes the latter look common, when if headed with a chief of their own rank all would appear to the best advantage.

Some of the plants much used for subtropical bedding, and often started for that purpose in a greenhouse or coldframe, are:--

Acalypha.

Amarantus.

Aralia Sieboldii (properly Fatsia Japonica).

Bamboos.

Caladium and colocasia.

Canna.

Coxcomb, particularly the new "foliage" kinds.

Grasses, as eulalias, pampas-grass, pennisetums.

Gunnera.

Maize, the striped form.

Ricinus or castor bean.

Scarlet sage.

Wigandia.

Aquatic and bog plants.

Some of the most interesting and ornamental of all plants grow in water and in wet places. It is possible to make an aquatic flower-garden, and also to use water and bog plants as a part of the landscape work.

The essential consideration in the growing of aquatics is the making of the pond. It is possible to grow water-lilies in tubs and half barrels; but this does not provide sufficient room, and the plant-food is likely soon to be exhausted and the plants to fail. The small quantity of water is likely also to become foul.

The best ponds are those made by good mason work, for the water does not become muddy by working among the plants. In cement ponds it is best to plant the roots of water-lilies in shallow boxes of earth (1 foot deep and 3 or 4 feet square), or to hold the earth in mason-work compartments.

Usually the ponds or tanks are not cement lined. In some soils a simple excavation will hold water, but it is usually necessary to give the tank some kind of lining. Clay is often used. The bottom and sides of the tank are pounded firm, and then covered with 3 to 6 in. of clay, which has been kneaded in the hands, or pounded and worked in a box. Handfuls or shovelfuls of the material are thrown forcibly upon the earth, the operator being careful not to walk upon the work. The clay is smoothed by means of a spade or maul, and it is then sanded.

The water for the lily pond may be derived from a brook, spring, well, or a city water supply. The plants will thrive in any water that is used for domestic purposes. It is important that the water does not become stagnant and a breeding place for mosquitoes. There should be an outlet in the nature of a stand-pipe, that will control the depth of water. It is not necessary that the water run through the pond or tank rapidly, but only that a slow change take place. Sometimes the water is allowed to enter through a fountain-vase, in which water plants (such as parrot's feather) may be grown (Plate X).

In all ponds, a foot or 15 in. is sufficient depth of water to stand above the crowns of the plants; and the greatest depth of water should not be more than 3 ft. for all kinds of water-lilies. Half this depth is often sufficient. The soil should be 1 to 2 ft. deep, and very rich. Old cow manure may be mixed with rich loam. For the nympheas or water-lilies, 9 to 12 in. of soil is sufficient. Most of the foreign water-lilies are not hardy, but some of them may be grown with ease if the pond is covered in winter.

Roots of hardy water-lilies may be planted as soon as the pond is clear of frost, but the tender kinds (which are also to be taken up in the fall) should not be planted till it is time to plant out geraniums. Sink the roots into the mud so that they are just buried, and weight them down with a stone or clod. The nelumbium, or so-called Egyptian lotus, should not be transplanted till growth begins to show in the roots in the spring. The roots are cleaned of decayed parts and covered with about 3 in. of soil. A foot or so of water is sufficient for lotus ponds. The roots of Egyptian lotus must not freeze. The roots of all water-lily-like plants should be frequently divided and renewed.

With hardy aquatics, the water and roots are allowed to remain naturally over winter. In very cold climates, the pond is protected by throwing boards over it and covering with hay, straw, or evergreen boughs. It is well to supply an additional depth of water as a further protection.

As a landscape feature, the pond should have a background, or setting, and its edges should be relieved, at least on sides and back, by plantings of bog plants. In permanent ponds of large size, plantings of willows, osiers, and other shrubbery may set off the area to advantage. Many of the wild marsh and pond plants are excellent for marginal plantings, as sedges, cat-tail, sweet-flag (there is a striped-leaved form), and some of the marsh grasses. Japanese iris makes an excellent effect in such places. For summer planting in or near ponds, caladium, umbrella-plant, and papyrus are good.

If there is a stream, "branch," or "run" through the place, it may often be made one of the most attractive parts of the premises by colonizing bog plants along it.

Rockeries, and alpine plants.

A rockery is a part of the place in which plants are grown in pockets between rocks. It is a flower-garden conception rather than a landscape feature, and therefore should be at one side or in the rear of the premises. Primarily, the object of using the rocks is to provide better conditions in which certain plants may grow; sometimes the rocks are employed to hold a springy or sloughing bank and the plants are used to cover the rocks; now and then a person wants a rock or a pile of stones in his yard, as another person would want a piece of statuary or a sheared evergreen. Sometimes the rocks are natural to the place and cannot well be removed; in this case the planning and planting should be such as to make them part of the picture.

The real rock-garden, however, is a place in which to grow plants. The rocks are secondary. The rocks should not appear to be placed for display. If one is making a collection of rocks, he is pursuing geology rather than gardening.

Yet many of the so-called rock-gardens are mere heaps of stones, placed where it seems to be convenient to pile stones rather than where the stones may improve conditions for the growing of plants.

The plants that will naturally grow in rock pockets are those requiring a continuous supply of root moisture and a cool atmosphere. To place a rockery on a sand bank in the burning sun is therefore entirely out of character.

Rock-garden plants are those of cool woods, of bogs, and particularly of high mountains and alpine regions. It is generally understood that a rock-garden is an alpine-garden, although this is not necessarily so.

In this country alpine-gardening is little known, largely because of our hot dry summers and falls. But if one has a rather cool exposure and an unfailing water supply, he may succeed fairly well with many of the alpines, or at least with the semi-alpines.

Most of the alpines are low and often tufted plants, and bloom in a spring temperature. In our long hot seasons, the alpine-garden may be expected to be dormant during much of the summer, unless other rock-loving plants are colonized in it. Alpine plants are of many kinds. They are specially to be found in the genera arenaria, silene, diapensia, primula, saxifraga, arabis, aubrietia, veronica, campanula, gentiana. They comprise a good number of ferns and many little heaths.

A good rock-garden of any kind does not have the stones piled merely on the surface; they are sunken well into the ground and are so placed that there are deep chambers or channels that hold moisture and into which roots may penetrate. The pockets are filled with good fibrous moisture-holding earth, and often a little sphagnum or other moss is added. It must then be arranged so that the pockets never dry out.

Rock-gardens are usually failures, because they violate these very simple elementary principles; but even when the soil conditions and moisture conditions are good, the habits of the rock plants must be learned, and this requires thoughtful experience. Rock-gardens cannot be generally recommended.

1. PLANTS FOR CARPET-BEDS

(By Ernest Walker)

The beauty of the carpet-bed lies largely in its unity, sharp contrast and harmony of color, elegance--often simplicity--of design, nicety of execution, and the continued distinctness of outline due to scrupulous care. A generous allowance of green-sward on all sides contributes greatly to the general effect,--in fact it is indispensable.

Whatever place is chosen for the bed, it should be in a sunny exposure. This, nor any kind of bed, should not be planted near large trees, as their greedy roots will rob the soil not only of its food, but of moisture. The shade also will be a menace. As the plants stand so thick, the soil should be well enriched, and spaded at least a foot deep. In planting, a space of at least six inches must be left between the outer row of plants and the edge of the grass. The very style of the bed requires that lines be straight, the curves uniform, and that they be kept so by the frequent and careful use of the shears. During dry periods watering will be necessary. The beds, however, should not be watered in the hot sunshine. Foliage plants are most in use, and are the ones which will prove the most satisfactory in the hands of the inexperienced, as they submit to severe clipping and are thus more easily managed.

The following list will be helpful to the beginner. It embraces a number of the plants in common use for carpet-bedding, although not all of them. The usual heights are given in inches. This, of course, in different soils and under different treatment is more or less a variable quantity. The figures in parentheses suggest in inches suitable distances for planting in the row when immediate effects are expected. A verbena in rich soil will in time cover a circle three feet or more in diameter; other plants mentioned spread considerably; but when used in the carpet-bed, they must be planted close. One cannot wait for them to grow. The aim is to cover the ground at once. Although planted thick in the row, it will be desirable to leave more room between the rows in case of spreading plants like the verbena. Most of them, however, need little if any more space between the rows than is indicated by the figures given. In the list those plants that bear free clipping are marked with *:

Lists for carpet-beds.

The figure immediately following the name of plant indicates its height, the figures in parentheses the distance for planting, in inches.

1. LOW-GROWING PLANTS

A. FOLIAGE PLANTS.

Crimson.--*Alternanthera amœna spectabilis, 6 (4-6).
Alternanthera paronychioides major, 5 (3-6).
Alternanthera versicolor, 5 (3-6).
Yellow.--Alternanthera aurea nana, 6 (4-6).
Gray, or whitish.--Echeveria secunda, glauca, 1-1/2 (3-4).
Echeveria metallica, 9 (6-8).
Cineraria maritima, 15 (9-12).
Sempervivum Californicum, 1-1/2 (3-4).
Thymus argenteus, 6 (4-6).
Bronze brown.--Oxalis tropæoloides, 3 (3-4).
Variegated
(white and green).--Geranium Mme. Salleroi, 6 (6-8).
*Sweet alyssum, variegated, 6 (6-9).
B. FLOWERING PLANTS.
Scarlet.--Phlox Drummondii, Dwarf, 6 (4-6).
Cuphea platycentra, Cigar Plant, 6 (4-6).
White.--Sweet alyssum, Little Gem, 4 (4-6).
Sweet alyssum, common, 6 (6-8).
Phlox Drummondii, Dwarf, 6 (4-6).
Blue.--Lobelia, Crystal Palace, 6 (4-6).
Ageratum, Dwarf Blue, 6 (6-8).
2. PLANTS OF TALLER GROWTH
A. FOLIAGE PLANTS.
Crimson.--*Coleus Verschaffeltii, 24 (9-12).
*Achyranthes Lindeni, 18 (8-12).
*Achyranthes Gilsoni, 12 (8-12).
*Achyranthes Verschaffeltii, 12 (8-12).
*Acalypha tricolor, 12-18 (12).
Yellow.--*Coleus, Golden Bedder, 24 (9-12).
*Achyranthes, aurea reticulata, 12 (8-12).
Golden feverfew (Pyrethrum parthenifolium aureum), (6-8).
Bronze geranium, 12 (9).
Silvery white.--Dusty miller (Centaurea gymnocarpa), 12 (8-12).
*Santolina Chamæcyparissus incana, 6-12 (6-8).
Geranium, Mountain of Snow, 12 (6-9).
Variegated
(white and green).--*Stevia serrata var., 12-18 (8-12).
Phalaris arundinaeca var., (grass), 24 (4-8).
Cyperus alternifolius var., 24-30 (8-12).
Bronze.--*Acalypha marginata, 24 (12).
B. FLOWERING PLANTS.
Scarlet.--Salvia splendens, 36 (12-18).
Geraniums, 24 (12).
Cuphea tricolor (C. Llavae), 18 (8-12).
Dwarf nasturtium (Tropaeolum), 12-18 (12-18).
Begonia, Vernon, 12 (6-8).
Verbenas, 12 (6-12).
Phlox Drummondii, Dwarf, 6 (4-6).
White.--Salvia splendens, White-flowered, 36 (12-18).
Geraniums, 18-24 (12).
Lantana, Innocence, 18-24 (8-12).
Lantana, Queen Victoria, 24 (8-12).
Verbena, Snow Queen, 12 (6-12).
Ageratum, White, 9 (6-9).
Phlox Drummondii, Dwarf, 6 (4-6).
Pink.--Petunia, Countess of Ellesmere, 18 (8-12).
Lantana, 24 (8-12).
Verbena, Beauty of Oxford, 6 (8-12).
Phlox Drummondii, Dwarf, 6 (4-6).
Yellow.--Dwarf nasturtium, 12 (12-18).
Anthemis coronaria fl. pl., 12 (6-8).
Blue.--Ageratum Mexicanum, 12 (6-8).
Verbenas, 6 (6-12).
Heliotrope, Queen of Violets, 18 (12-18).

In Fig. 240 are shown a few designs suitable for carpet-beds. They are intended merely to be suggestive, not to be copied precisely. The simple forms and component parts of the more elaborate beds may be arranged into other designs. Likewise the arrangement of plants, which will be mentioned as suitable for making a given pattern, is only one of many possible combinations. The idea is merely to bring out the design distinctly. To accomplish this it is only necessary to use plants of contrasting color or growth. To illustrate how varied are the arrangements that may be used, and how easily different effects are produced with a single design, several different combinations of color for the bed No. 1 will be mentioned:

No. 1.--Arrangement A: Outside, Alternanthera amœna spectabilis; inside, Stevia serrata variegata. B: lobelia, Crystal Palace; Mme. Salleroi geranium. C: lobelia, Crystal Palace; scarlet dwarf phlox. D: sweet alyssum; petunia, Countess of Ellesmere. E: coleus, Golden Bedder; Coleus Verschaffeltii. F: Achyranthes Lindeni; yellow dwarf nasturtium.

No. 2.--Outside, red alternanthera; middle, dusty miller; center, pink geranium.

No. 3.--Outside, Alternanthera aurea nana; middle, Alternanthera amœna spectabilis; center, Anthemis coronaria.

No. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 12 may each be filled with a single color, or given a border of suitable plants if the planter so chooses.

No. 9.--Ground, Alternanthera aurea nana; center, Acalypha tricolor; black dots, scarlet geranium.

No. 10.--Ground of Centaurea gymnocarpa; circle, Achyranthes Lindeni; cross, Golden coleus.

No. 11.--Border, Oxalis tropæoloides; center, blue heliotrope, blue ageratum, or Acalypha marginata; cross about the center, Thymus argenteus, or centaurea; scallop outside the cross, blue lobelia; corners, inside border, santolina.

Designs 13 and 14 are, in character, somewhat in the style of a parterre; but instead of the intervening spaces in the bed being ordinary walks they are of grass. Such beds are of a useful type, because they may be made large and yet be executed with a comparatively small number of plants. They are especially suitable for the center of an open plot of lawn with definite formal boundaries on all sides, such as walks or drives. Whether they are to be composed of tall-growing or of low-growing plants will depend upon the distance they are to be from the observer. For a moderate-sized plot the following plants might be used:--

No. 13.--Border, red alternanthera; second row, dwarf orange or yellow nasturtium; third row, Achyranthes Gilsoni, or Acalypha tricolor; central square, scarlet geraniums, with a border of Centaurea gymnocarpa; intervening spaces, grass. Instead of the square of geraniums, a vase might be substituted, or a clump of Salvia splendens.

No. 14.--Composite beds like this and the former are always suggestive. They contain various features which may readily be recombined into other patterns. Sometimes it may be convenient to use only portions of the design. The reader should feel that no arrangement is arbitrary, but merely a suggestion that he may use with the utmost freedom, only keeping harmony in view. For No. 14, the following may be an acceptable planting arrangement: Border, Mme. Salleroi geranium; small dots, dwarf scarlet tropeolum; diamonds, blue lobelia; crescents, Stevia serrata variegata; inner border, crimson achyranthes or coleus; loops, Centaurea gymnocarpa; wedge-shaped portions, scarlet geranium.

No. 15.--Suitable for a corner. Border, red alternanthera; second row, Alternanthera aurea nana; third row, red alternanthera; center, Echeveria Californica.

No. 16--Border, crimson alternanthera (another border of yellow alternanthera might be placed inside of this); ground, Echeveria secunda glauca; inner border, Oxalis tropæoloides; center, Alternanthera aurea nana. Or, inner border, Echeveria Californica; center, crimson alternanthera.

No. 17.--Another bed intended to fill an angle. Its curved side will also fit it for use with a circular design. Border, dwarf blue ageratum; circle, blue lobelia; ground (3 parts), crimson alternanthera.

Other carpet or mosaic beds (after Long), with the plants indicated, are shown in Figs. 241, 242.

2. THE ANNUAL PLANTS

The annual flowers of the seedsmen are those that give their best bloom in the very year in which the seeds are sown. True annuals are those plants that complete their entire life-cycle in one season. Some of the so-called annual flowers will continue to bloom the second and third years, but the bloom is so poor and sparse after the first season that it does not pay to keep them. Some perennials may be treated as annuals by starting the seeds early; Chinese pink, pansy and snapdragon are examples.

The regular biennials may be treated practically as annuals; that is, seeds may be sown every year, and after the first year, therefore, a seasonal succession of bloom may be had. Of such are adlumia, Canterbury bell, lunaria, ipomopsis, Œnothera Lamarckiana; and foxglove, valerian, and some other perennials would better be treated as biennials.

Most annuals will bloom in central New York if the seeds are sown in the open ground when the weather becomes thoroughly settled. But there are some kinds, as the late cosmos and moon-flowers, for which the northern season is commonly too short to give good bloom unless they are started very early indoors.

If flowers of any annual are wanted extra early, the seeds should be started under cover. A greenhouse is not necessary for this purpose, although best results are to be expected with such a building. The seed may be sown in boxes, and these boxes then placed in a sheltered position on the warm side of a building. At night they may be covered with boards or matting. In very cold "spells" the boxes should be brought inside. In this simple way seeds may often be started one to three weeks ahead of the time when they can be sown in the open garden. Moreover, the plants are likely to receive better care in these boxes, and therefore to grow more rapidly. Of course, if still earlier results are desired, the seed should be sown in the kitchen, hotbed, coldframe, or in a greenhouse. In starting plants ahead of the season, be careful not to use too deep boxes. The gardener's "flat" may be taken as a suggestion. Three inches of earth is sufficient, and in some cases (as when the plants are started late) half this depth is enough.

The difficulty with early sown seedlings is "drawing up," and weakness from crowding and want of light. This is most liable to occur with window-grown plants. Vigorous June-sown plants are better than such weaklings. It must be remembered that very early bloom usually means the shortening of the season at the other end; this may be remedied to some extent by making sowings at different times.

The "hardy" annuals are such as develop readily without the aid of artificial heat. They are commonly sown in May or earlier, directly in the open ground where they are to grow. Florists often sow certain kinds in the fall, and winter the young plants in coldframes. They may also be wintered under a covering of leaves or evergreen boughs. Some of the hardy annuals (as sweet pea) withstand considerable frost. The "half-hardy" and "tender" annuals are alike in that they require more warmth for their germination and growth. The tender kinds are very quickly sensitive to frost. Both these, like the hardy kinds, may be sown in the open ground, but not until the weather has become settled and warm, which for the tender kinds will not commonly be before the first of June; but the tender kinds, at least, are preferably started in the house and transplanted to their outdoor beds. Of course, these terms are wholly relative. What may be a tender annual in Massachusetts may be a hardy annual or even a perennial in Louisiana.

These terms as ordinarily used in this country refer to the northern states, or not farther south than middle Atlantic states.

Some familiar examples of hardy annuals are sweet alyssum, ageratum, calendula, calliopsis, candytuft, Centaurea Cyanus, clarkia, larkspur, gilia, California poppy, morning-glory, marigold, mignonette, nemophila, pansy, phlox, pinks, poppies, portulaca, zinnia, sweet pea, scabiosa.

Examples of half-hardy annuals are: China aster, alonsoa, balsam, petunia, ricinus, stocks, balloon-vine, martynia, salpiglossis, thunbergia, nasturtium, verbena.

Examples of tender annuals: Amarantus, celosia or coxcomb, cosmos, cotton, Lobelia Erinus, cobea, gourds, ice-plant, sensitive-plant, solanums, torenia, and such things as dahlias, caladiums, and acalypha used for bedding and subtropical effects.

Some annuals do not bear transplanting well; as poppies, bartonia, Venus' looking-glass, the dwarf convolvulus, lupinus, and malope. It is best, therefore, to sow them where they are to grow.

Some kinds (as poppies) do not bloom all summer, more especially not if allowed to produce seed. Of such kinds a second or third sowing at intervals will provide a succession. Preventing the formation of seeds prolongs their life and flowering period.

A few of the annuals thrive in partial shade or where they receive sunshine for half the day; but most of them prefer a sunny situation.

Any good garden soil is suitable for annuals. If not naturally fertile and friable, it should be made so by the application of well-rotted stable-manure or humus. The spading should be at least one foot deep. The upper six inches is then to be given a second turning to pulverize and mix it. After making the surface fine and smooth the soil should be pressed down with a board. The seed may now be sprinkled on the soil in lines or concentric circles, according to the method desired. After covering the seed, the soil should be again pressed down with a board. This promotes capillarity, by which the surface of the soil is better supplied with moisture from below. Always mark with a label the kind and position of all seed sown.

If the flowers are to be grown about the edges of the lawn, make sure that the grass roots do not run underneath them and rob them of food and moisture. It is well to run a sharp spade deep into the ground about the edges of the bed every two or three weeks for the purpose of cutting off any grass roots that may have run into the bed. If beds are made in the turf, see that they are 3 ft. or more wide, so that the grass roots will not undermine them. Against the shrub borders, this precaution may not be necessary. In fact, it is desirable that the flowers fill all the space between the overhanging branches and the sod.

It is surprising how few of the uncommon or little known annuals really have great merit for general purposes. There is nothing yet to take the place of the old-time groups, such as amaranths, zinnias, calendulas, daturas, balsams, annual pinks, candytufts, bachelor's buttons, wallflowers, larkspurs, petunias, gaillardias, snapdragons, coxcombs, lobelias, coreopsis or calliopsis, California poppies, four-o'clocks, sweet sultans, phloxes, mignonettes, scabiosas, nasturtiums, marigolds, China asters, salpiglossis, nicotianas, pansies, portulacas, castor beans, poppies, sunflowers, verbenas, stocks, alyssums, and such good old running plants as scarlet runners, sweet peas, convolvuluses, ipomeas, tall nasturtiums, balloon vines, cobeas. Of the annual vines of recent introduction, the Japanese hop has at once taken a prominent place for the covering of fences and arbors, although it has no floral beauty to recommend it.

For bold mass-displays of color in the rear parts of the grounds or along the borders, some of the coarser species are desirable. Good plants for such use are: sunflower and castor bean for the back rows; zinnias for bright effects in the scarlets and lilacs; African marigolds for brilliant yellows; nicotianas for whites. Unfortunately, we have no robust-growing annuals with good blues. Some of the larkspurs and the browallias are perhaps the nearest approach to them.

For lower-growing and less gross mass-displays, the following are good: California poppies for oranges and yellows; sweet sultans for purples, whites, and pale yellows; petunias for purples, violets, and whites; larkspurs for blues and violets; bachelor's buttons (or cornflowers) for blues; calliopsis and coreopsis and calendulas for yellows; gaillardias for red-yellows and orange-reds; China asters for many colors.

For still less robustness, good mass-displays can be made with the following: alyssums and candytufts for whites; phloxes for whites and various pinks and reds; lobelias and browallias for blues; pinks for whites and various shades of pink; stocks for whites and reds; wallflowers for brown-yellows; verbenas for many colors.

A garden of pleasant annual flowers is not complete that does not contain some of the "everlastings" or immortelles. These "paper flowers" are always interesting to children. They are not so desirable for the making of "dry bouquets" as for their value as a part of a garden. The colors are bright, the blooms hold long on the plant, and most of the kinds are very easy to grow. My favorite groups are the different kinds of xeranthemums and helichrysums. The globe amaranths, with clover-like heads (sometimes known as bachelor's buttons), are good old favorites. Rhodanthes and acrocliniums are also good and reliable.

The ornamental grasses should not be overlooked. They add a note to the flower-garden and to bouquets that is distinct and can be secured by no other plants. They are easily grown. Some of the good annual grasses are Agrostis nebulosa, the brizas, Bromus brizæformis, the species of eragrostis and pennisetums, and Coix Lachryma as a curiosity. Such good lawn grasses as arundo, pampas-grass, eulalias, and erianthus are perennials and are therefore not included in this discussion.

Some of the most reliable and easily grown annuals are given in the following lists (under the common trade names).

List of annuals by color of flowers.

White Flowers
Ageratum Mexicanum album.
Alyssum, common sweet; compacta.
Centranthus macrosiphon albus.
China asters.
Convolvulus major.
Dianthus, Double White Margaret.
Iberis amara; coronaria, White Rocket.
Ipomœa hederacea.
Lavatera alba.
Malope grandiflora alba.
Matthiola (Stocks), Cut and Come Again; Dresden Perpetual; Giant Perfection; White Pearl.
Mirabilis longiflora alba.
Nigella.
Phlox, Dwarf Snowball; Leopoldii.
Poppies, Flag of Truce; Shirley; The Mikado.
Zinnia.
Yellow and Orange Flowers
Cacalia lutea.
Calendula officinalis, common; Meteor; sulphurea; suffruticosa.
Calliopsis bicolor marmorata; cardaminefolia; elegans picta.
Cosmidium Burridgeanum.
Erysimum Perofskianum.
Eschscholtzia Californica.
Hibiscus Africanus; Golden Bowl.
Ipomœa coccinea lutea.
Loasa tricolor.
Tagetes, various kinds.
Thunbergia alata Fryeri; aurantiaca.
Tropaeolum, Dwarf, Lady Bird; Tall, Schulzi.
Zinnia.
Blue and Purple Flowers
Ageratum Mexicanum; Mexicanum, Dwarf.
Asperula setosa azurea.
Brachycome iberidifolia.
Browallia Czerniakowski; elata.
Centaurea Cyanus, Victoria Dwarf Compact; Cyanus minor.
China asters of several varieties.
Convolvulus minor; minor unicaulis.
Gilia achilleaefolia; capitata.
Iberis umbellata; umbellata lilacina.
Kaulfussia amelloides; atroviolacea.
Lobelia Erinus; Erinus, Elegant.
Nigella.
Phlox variabilis atropurpurea.
Salvia farinacea.
Specularia.
Verbena, Black-blue; caerulea; Golden-leaved.
Whitlavia gloxinioides.
Red and Rose-red Flowers
Abromia umbellata.
Alonsoa grandiflora.
Cacalia, Scarlet.
Clarkia elegans rosea.
Convolvulus tricolor roseus.
Dianthus, Half Dwarf Early Margaret; Dwarf Perpetual; Chinensis.
Gaillardia picta.
Ipomœa coccinea; volubilis.
Matthiola annuus; Blood-red Ten Weeks; grandiflora, Dwarf.
Papaver (Poppy) cardinale; Mephisto.
Phaseolus multiflorus.
Phlox, Large-flowering Dwarf; Dwarf Fireball; Black Warrior.
Salvia coccinea.
Saponaria.
Tropaeolum, Dwarf, Tom Thumb.
Verbena hybrida, Scarlet Defiance.
Zinnia.

Useful annuals for edgings of beds and, walks, and for ribbon-beds.

Ageraturn, blue and white.
Alyssum, sweet.
Brachycome.
Calandrinia.
Clarkia.
Collinsias.
Dianthuses or pinks.
Gilia.
Gypsophila muralis.
Iberis or candytufts.
Leptosiphons.
Lobelia Erinus.
Nemophilas.
Nigellas.
Portulaca or rose moss (Fig. 243).
Saponaria Calabrica.
Specularia.
Torenia.
Whitlavia.

Annuals that continue to bloom after frost.

This list is compiled from Bulletin 161, Cornell Experiment Station. Several hundred kinds of annuals were grown at this station (Ithaca, N.Y.) in 1897 and 1898. The notes are given in the original trade names under which the seedsmen supplied the stock.

Abronia umbellata.
Adonis aestivalis; autumnale.
Argemone grandiflora.
Calendulas.
Callirrhoë.
Carduus benedictus.
Centaurea Cyanus.
Centauridium.
Centranthus macro-
Cerinthe retorta. {siphon.
Cheiranthus Cheiri.
Chrysanthemums.
Convolvulus minor; tricolor.
Dianthus of various kinds.
Elsholtzia cristata.
Erysimum Perofskianum; Arkansanum.
Eschscholtzias, in several varieties (Fig. 249).
Gaillardia picta.
Gilia achilleaefolia; capitata; laciniata; tricolor.
Iberis affinis.
Lavatera alba.
Matthiolas or stocks.
Œnothera rosea; Lamarckiana;
Phlox Drummondii. {Drummondii.
Podolepis affinis; chrysantha.
Salvia coccinea; farinacea; Horminum.
Verbenas.
Vicia Gerardi.
Virginian stocks.
Viscaria elegans; oculata; Cœli-rosa.

List of annuals suitable for bedding (that is, for "mass effects" of color).

A list of this kind is necessarily both incomplete and imperfect, because good new varieties are frequently appearing, and the taste of the gardener must be consulted. Any plants may be used, broadly speaking, for bedding; but the following list (given in terms of trade names) suggests some of the best subjects to use when beds of solid, strong color are desired.

Adonis aestivalis; autumnalis.
Ageratum Mexicanum; Mexicanum, Dwarf.
Bartonia aurea.
Cacalia.
Calendula officinalis, in several forms; pluvialis; Pongei; sulphurea,
fl. pl.; suffruticosa.
Calliopsis bicolor marmorata; cardaminefolia; elegans picta.
Callirrhoë involucrata; pedata; pedata nana.
Centaurea Americana; Cyanus, Victoria Dwarf Compact; Cyanus minor; suaveolens.
China asters.
Chrysanthemum Burridgeanum; carinatum; coronarium; tricolor.
Convolvulus minor; tricolor.
Cosmidium Burridgeanum.
Delphinium, single; double.
Dianthus, Double White Half Dwarf Margaret; Dwarf Perpetual;
Caryophyllus semperflorens; Chinensis, double; dentosus hybridus;
Heddewigii; imperialis; laciniatus, Salmon Queen; plumarius;
superbus, dwarf fl. pl.; picotee.
Elsholtzia cristata.
Eschscholtzia Californica; crocea; Mandarin; tenuifolia (Fig. 249).
Gaillardia picta; picta Lorenziana.
Gilia achilleaefolia; capitata; laciniata; linifolia; nivalis; tricolor.
Godetia Whitneyi; grandiflora maculata; rubicunda splendens.
Hibiscus Africanus; Golden Bowl.
Iberis affinis; amara; coronaria; umbellata.
Impatiens or balsam.
Lavatera alba; trimestris.
Linum grandiflorum.
Madia elegans.
Malope grandiflora.
Matricaria eximia plena.
Matthiola or stock, in many forms; Wallflower-leaved; bicornis.
Nigella, or Love-in-a-mist.
Œnothera Drummondii; Lamarckiana; rosea tetraptera.
Papaver or poppy, of many kinds; cardinale; glaucum; umbrosum.
Petunia, bedding kinds.
Phlox Drummondii, in many varieties.
Portulaca (Fig. 243).
Salvia farinacea; Horminum; splendens.
Schizanthus papilionaceus; pinnatus.
Silene Armeria; pendula.
Tagetes, or marigold, in many forms; erecta; patula; signata.
Tropaeolum, Dwarf.
Verbena auriculaeflora; Italica striata; hybrida; caerulea; Golden-leaved.
Viscaria Cœli-rosa; elegans picta; oculata.
Zinnia, Dwarf; elegans alba; Tom Thumb; Haageana; coccinea
plena (Fig. 247).

List of annuals by height.

It is obviously impossible to make any accurate or definite list of plants in terms of their height, but the beginner may be aided by approximate measurements. The following lists are made from Bulletin 161 of the Cornell Experiment Station, which gives tabular data on many annuals grown at Ithaca, N.Y. Seeds of most of the kinds were sown in the open, rather late. "The soil varied somewhat, but it was light and well tilled, and only moderately rich." Ordinary good care was given the plants. The average height of the plants of each kind at full growth, as they stood on the ground, is given in these lists. Of course, these heights might be less or more with different soils, different treatments, and different climates; but the figures are fairly comparable among themselves.

The measurements are based on the stock supplied by leading seedsmen under the trade names here given. It is not unlikely that some of the discrepancies were due to mixture of seed or to stock being untrue to type; some of it may have been due to soil conditions. The same name may be found in two divisions in some instances, the plants having been grown from different lots of seeds. The lists will indicate to the grower what variations he may expect in any large lot of seeds.

Seedsmen's catalogues should be consulted for what the trade considers to be the proper and normal heights for the different plants.

Plants 6-8 in. high
Abronia umbellata grandiflora.
Alyssum compactum.
Callirrhoë involucrata.
Godetia, Bijou, Lady Albemarle, and Lady Satin Rose.
Gypsophila muralis.
Kaulfussia amelloides.
Leptosiphon hybridus.
Linaria Maroccana.
Lobelia Erinus and Erinus Elegant.
Nemophila atomaria, discoidalis, insignis, and maculata.
Nolana lanceolata, paradoxa, prostrata, and atriplicifolia.
Podolepis chrysantha and affinis.
Portulaca.
Rhodanthe Manglesii.
Sedum caeruleum.
Silene pendula ruberrima.
Verbena.

Plants 9-12 in. high

Alyssum.
Asperula setosa azurea.
Brachycome iberidifolia.
Calandrinia umbellata elegans.
Callirrhoë pedata nana.
Centaurea Cyanus Victoria Dwarf Compact.
Centranthus macrosiphon nanus.
Collinsia bicolor, candidissima and multicolor marmorata.
Convolvulus minor and tricolor.
Eschscholtzia crocea.
Gamolepis Tagetes.
Gilia laciniata and linifolia.
Godetia Duchess of Albany, Prince of Wales, Fairy Queen, Brilliant,
grandiflora maculata, Whitneyi, Duke of Fife, rubicunda splendens.
Helipterum corymbiflorum.
Iberis affinis.
Kaulfussia amelloides atroviolacea, and a. kermesina.
Leptosiphon androsaceus and densiflorus.
Linaria bipartita splendida.
Matthiola dwarf Forcing Snowflake, Wallflower-leaved.
Mesembryanthemum crystallinum.
Mimulus cupreus.
Nemophila atomaria oculata and marginata.
Nigella.
Nolana atriplicifolia.
Omphalodes linifolia.
Œnothera rosea and tetraptera.
Phlox, Large-flowering Dwarf and Dwarf Snowball.
Rhodanthe maculata.
Saponaria Calabrica.
Schizanthus pinnatus.
Silene Armeria and pendula.
Specularia.
Viscaria oculata cserulea.

Plants 13-17 in. high

Abronia umbellata.
Acroclinium album and roseum.
Brachycome iberidifolia alba.
Browallia Czerniakowski and elata.
Cacalia.
Calandrinia grandiflora.
Calendula sulphurea flore pleno.
Chrysanthemum carinatum.
Collomia coccinea.
Convolvulus minor and minor unicaulis.
Dianthus, the Margaret varieties, Dwarf Perpetual, Caryophyllus
semperflorens, Chinensis, dentosus hybridus, Heddewigii, imperialis,
laciniatus, plumarius, superbus dwarf, picotee, Comtesse de Paris.
Elsholtzia cristata.
Eschscholtzia Californica, Mandarin, maritima and tenuifolia.
Gaillardia picta.
Gilia achillesefolia alba and nivalis.
Helipterum Sanfordii.
Hieracium, Bearded.
Iberis amara, coronaria Empress, coronaria White Rocket,
Sweet-scented, umbellata, umbellata carnea, and umbellata lilacina.
Leptosiphon carmineus.
Lupinus nanus, sulphureus.
Malope grandiflora.
Matthiola, Wallflower-leaved and Virginian stock.
Mirabilis alba.
Nigella.
Œnothera Lamarckiana.
Palafoxia Hookeriana.
Papaver, Shirley and glaucum.
Petunia.
Phlox of many kinds.
Salvia Horminum.
Schizanthus papilionaceus.
Statice Thouini and superba.
Tagetes, Pride of the Garden and Dwarf.
Tropaeolum, many kinds of dwarf.
Venidium calendulaceum.
Verbena of several kinds.
Viscaria Cœli-rosa, elegans picta, oculata, and oculata alba.
Whitlavia gloxinioides.

Plants 18-23 in. high

Adonis aestivalis and autumnalis.
Amarantus atropurpureus.
Calendula officinalis, Meteor, suffruticosa, and pluvialis.
Calliopsis bicolor marmorata.
Callirrhoë pedata.
Centaurea Cyanus minor Blue and suaveolens.
Centranthus macrosiphon.
Chrysanthemum Burridgeanum, carinatum, tricolor Dunnettii.
Cosmidium Burridgeanum.
Delphinium (annual).
Eutoca Wrangeliana.
Gaillardia picta (Fig. 245), Lorenziana.
Gilia achilleaefolia, a. rosea and tricolor.
Helichrysum atrosanguineum.
Ipomœa coccinea.
Linum grandiflorum.
Loasa tricolor.
Lupinus albus, hirsutus and pubescens.
Malope grandiflora alba.
Matricaria eximia plena.
Matthiola, several kinds.
Œnothera Drummondii.
Papaver Mephisto, cardinale, c. hybridum, c. Danebrog, umbrosum.
Tagetes patula and signata.
Vicia Gerardii.
Whitlavia grandiflora and g. alba.
Xeranthemum album and multiflorum album.
Zinnias of many kinds (all not mentioned in other lists).

Plants 24-30 in. high

Bartonia aurea.
Calendula officinalis fl. pl., Prince of Orange and Pongei.
Calliopsis elegans picta.
Cardiospermum Halicacabum.
Carduus benedictus.
Centaurea Cyanus minor Emperor William.
Cheiranthus Cheiri.
Chrysanthemum tricolor, t. hybridum and coronarium sulphureum fl. pl.
Clarkia elegans rosea.
Datura cornucopia.
Erysimum Arkansanum and Perofskianum.
Eutoca viscida.
Gilia capitata alba.
Helichrysum bracteatum and macranthum.
Hibiscus Africanus.
Impatiens, all varieties.
Lupinus hirsutus pilosus.
Matthiola Blood-red Ten Weeks, Cut and Come Again, grandiflora,
annuus, and others.
Mirabilis Jalapa folio variegata and longiflora alba.
Papaver, American Flag, Mikado and Double.
Perilla laciniata and Nankinensis.
Salvia farinacea.
Tagetes Eldorado, Nugget of Gold, erecta fl. pl.
Xeranthemum annuum and superbissimum fl. pl.
Zinnia elegans alba fl. pl.

Plants 31-40 in. high

Acroclinium, double rose and white.
Adonis aestivalis.
Ageratum Mexicanum album and blue.
Amarantus bicolor ruber.
Argemone grandiflora.
Centaurea Americana.
Centauridium Drummondii.
Cerinthe retorta. [c. double yellow.
Chrysanthemum coronarium album and Clarkia elegans alba fl. pl.
Cleome spinosa.
Cyclanthera pedata.
Datura fastuosa and New Golden
Euphorbia marginata. [Queen.
Gilia capitata alba.
Helianthus Dwarf double and cucu-
Hibiscus Golden Bowl. [merifolius.
Lavatera trimestris.
Madia elegans.
Martynia craniolaria.
Salvia coccinea.

Plants 41 in. and above.

Adonis autumnalis.
Helianthus of several garden kinds (not mentioned elsewhere).
Ricinus, all varieties.
And many climbing vines.

Distances for planting annuals (or plants treated as annuals).

Only an approximate idea can be given of the distances apart at which annuals should be planted, for not only does the distance depend on the fertility of the land (the stronger the soil the greater the distance), but also on the object the person has in growing the plants, whether to produce a solid mass effect or to secure strong specimen plants with large individual bloom. If specimen plants are to be raised, the distances should be liberal.

The distances here given for some of the commoner annuals may be considered to represent average or usual spaces that single plants may occupy under ordinary conditions in flowerbeds, although it would probably be impossible to find any two gardeners or seedsmen who would agree on the details. These are suggestions rather than recommendations. It is always well to set or sow more plants than are wanted, for there is danger of loss from cut-worms and other causes. The general tendency is to let the plants stand too close together at maturity. In case of doubt, place plants described in books and catalogues as very dwarf at six inches, those as medium-sized at twelve inches, very large growers at two feet, and thin them out if they seem to demand it as they grow.

The plants in these lists are thrown into four groups (rather than all placed together with the numbers after them) in order to classify the subject in the beginner's mind.

6 to 9 inches apart

Ageratum, very dwarf kinds.
Alyssum.
Asperula setosa.
Cacalia.
Candytuft.
Clarkia, dwarf.
Collinsia.
Gysophila muralis.
Kaulfussia.
Larkspur, dwarf kinds.
Linaria.
Linum grandiflorum
Lobelia Erinus. Mignonette, dwarf kinds.
Pansy.
Phlox, very dwarf kinds.
Pinks, very dwarf kinds.
Rhodanthe.
Schizopetalon.
Silene Armeria.
Snapdragon, dwarf.
Sweet pea.
Torenia.

10 to 15 inches apart

Those marked (ft.) are examples of plants that may usually stand at twelve inches.

Abronia (ft.).
Acroclinium.
Adlumia.
Adonis autumnalis.
Ageratum, tall kinds.
Alonsoa.
Aster, China, smaller kinds (ft.).
Balsam.
Bartonia.
Browallia.
Calendula.
California poppy (Eschscholtzia).
Calliopsis.
Cardiospermum.
Carnation, flower-garden kinds (ft.).
Celosia, small kinds.
Centaurea Cyanus.
Centauridium (ft.).
Centranthus (ft.).
Clarkia, tall (ft.).
Convolvulus tricolor (ft.).
Gaillardia, except on strong land.
Gilias.
Glaucium.
Godetia (ft.).
Gomphrena.
Gypsophila elegans.
Helichrysum (ft.).
Hunnemannia.
Jacobaea. {kinds.
Larkspur, tall annual
Malope. {varieties.
Marigold, intermediate
Mignonette, tall kinds.
Mesembryanthemum
(ice-plant) (ft.).
Morning-glory.
Nasturtium, dwarf.
Nemophila.
Nigella.
Petunia.
Phlox Drummondii.
Pinks.
Poppies (6 to 18 in., according to variety).
Portulaca (ft.).
Salpiglossis (ft.).
Scabiosa (ft.).
Schizanthus.
Snapdragon, tall kinds.
Statice (ft.).
Stock (ft.).
Tagetes, dwarf French.
Thunbergia (ft.).
Verbena.
Whitlavia (ft.), {(ft.).
Zinnia, very dwarf kinds

18 to 24 inches

Amarantus.
Ammobium.
Argemone.
Aster, China, the big kinds (or rows 2 ft. apart and plants 1 ft. in row).
Callirrhoë.
Canterbury bell (up to 3 ft.).
Celosia, large kinds (up to 30 in.).
Chrysanthemum, annual.
Cosmos, smaller kinds.
Euphorbia marginata.
Four o'clock (up to 30 in.)
Hop, Japanese. (to 30 in.)
Kochia, or summer cypress
Marigold, tall kinds.
Nasturtium, tall, if allowed to
spread on the ground.
Nicotiana (up to 30 in.).
Œnothera, tall kinds.
Salvia coccinea (splendens
grandiflora), about 2 ft.
Zinnia, tall kinds (up to 3 ft).
[Illustration: Fig. 250. A modern peony.]

About 3 feet or more

Caladium.
Cosmos, tall kinds (2 to 3 ft.).
Dahlia.
Datura.
Martynia.
Ricinus or castor bean.
Solanums.
Sunflower, tall kinds.
Wigandia.

3. HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS

There is a rapidly growing appreciation of perennial herbs, not only as flower-garden and lawn subjects, but as parts of native landscapes. Every locality yields its wild asters, golden-rods, columbines, iris, trilliums, lilies, anemones, pentstemons, mints, sunflowers, or other plants; and many of these also make good subjects for the home grounds.

It is important to remember that some perennial herbs begin to fail after one to three seasons of full bloom. It is a good plan to have new plants coming on to take their place; or the old roots may be taken up in the fall and divided, only the fresh and strong parts being planted again.

Perennial herbs are propagated in various ways,--by seeds, and by cuttings of the stems and roots, but mostly by the easy method of division. On the raising of these plants from seeds, William Falconer writes as follows in Dreer's "Garden Book" for 1909:--

"Hardy perennials are easily grown from seed. In many cases they are a little slower than annuals, but with intelligent care they are successfully raised, and from seed is an excellent way to get up a big stock of perennials. Many sorts, if sown in spring, bloom the first year from seeds as early as annuals; for instance: gaillardia, Iceland poppies, Chinese larkspur, platycodon, etc. Others do not bloom until the second year.

"The amateur may have more success and less bother growing perennials from seed sown in the open ground than from any other way. Prepare a bed in a nice, warm, sheltered spot in the garden, preferably not very sunny. Let the surface of the bed be raised four or five inches above the general level, and the soil be a mellow fine earth on the surface. Draw shallow rows across the surface of the bed three or four inches apart, and here sow the seeds, keeping the varieties of one kind or nature as much together as practicable, covering the seeds thinly; press the whole surface gently, water moderately, then dust a little fine loose soil over all. If the weather is sunny or windy, shade with papers or a few branches, but remove these in the evening. When the seedlings come up, thin them out to stiffen those that are left, and when they are two or three inches high, they are fit for transplanting into permanent quarters. All this should be done in early spring, say March, April, or May. Again, in July or August perennials are very easily raised out of doors, and much in the same way as above. Or they may be sown in early spring indoors, in the window, the hotbed, the coldframe, or the greenhouse, preferably in boxes or pans, as for growing annuals. Some gardeners sow seed right in the coldframe. I have tried both ways, and find the boxes best, as the different varieties of seeds do not come up at the same time, and you can remove them from the close frame to more airy quarters as soon as the seed comes up, whereas, if sown in a frame, you would have to give them all the same treatment. When the seedlings are large enough, I transplant them into other boxes, and put them into a shady part of the garden, but not under the shade of trees, as there they will 'draw' too much. About the fifteenth of September plant them in the garden where they are to bloom, or if the garden is full of summer-flowering plants, put them in beds in the vegetable garden, to be planted out in the early spring, and give them a light covering of straw or manure to keep sudden changes of the weather away from them."

Hardy perennial herbs may be planted in September and October with excellent results; also in spring. See that they are protected with mulch in winter.

Perennial herbs suitable for lawn and "planting" effects.

Some of the striking plants that are valuable for lawn planting in the North, chosen chiefly on account of their size, foliage, and habit, are mentioned in the following brief list. They may or may not be suitable for flower-gardens. It is impossible to give to this list any degree of completeness; but the names here printed will be suggestive of the kinds of things that may be used. The * denotes native plants.

Yucca, Yucca filamentosa.*

Funkia, Funkia, of several species.

Peltate saxifrage, Saxifraga peltata.*

Rose mallow, Hibiscus Moscheutos.*

Elecampane, Inula Helenium (Fig. 251).

Wild sunflowers, Helianthus* of different species, especially H. orygalis, H. giganteus, H. grosse-serratus, H. strumosus.

Compass-plants, Silphium* of several species, especially S. terebinthinaceum, S. laciniatum, S. perfoliatum.

Sacaline, Polygonum Sachalinense.

Japanese knotweed, Polygonum cuspidatum.

Bocconia, Bocconia cordata.

Wild wormwood, Artemisia Stelleriana* and others.

Butterfly-weed, Asclepias tuberosa.*

Wild asters, Aster* of many species, especially A. Novae-Anglae (best), A. laevis, A. multiflorus, A. spectabilis.

Golden-rods, Solidago* of various species, especially S. speciosa, S. nemoralis, S. juncea, S. gigantea.

Loose-strife, Lythrum Salicaria.

Flags, Iris of many species, some native.

Japanese wind-flower, Anemone Japonica.

Goat's beard, Aruncus sylvester (Spiræa Aruncus).*

Baptisia, Baptisia tinctoria.*

Thermopsis, Thermopsis mollis.*

Wild senna, Cassia Marilandica.*

Wild trefoil, Desmodium Canadense* and others.

Ribbon grass, Phalaris arundinacea* var. picta.

Zebra grass, Eulalia (or Miscanthus) species, and varieties.

Wild panic grass, Panicum virgatum.*

Bambusas (and related things) of several sorts.

Ravenna grass, Erianthus Ravennæ.

Arundo, Arundo Donax, and var. variegata.

Reed, Phragmites communis.*

This and the remaining plants of the list should be planted in the edges of water or in bogs (the list might be greatly extended).

Wild rice, Zizania aquatica.*

Cat-tail, Typha angustifolia* and T. latifolia.*

Lizard's-tail, Saururus cernuus.*

Peltandra, Peltandra undulata.*

Orontium, Orontium aquaticum.*

Native calla, Calla palustris.*

A brief seasonal flower-garden or border list of herbaceous perennials.

To facilitate making a selection of perennial herbs for bloom, the plants in the following list are arranged according to their flowering season, beginning with the earliest. The name of the month indicates when they usually begin to bloom. It should be understood that the blooming season of plants is not a fixed period, but varies more or less with localities and seasons. These dates are applicable to most of the middle and northern states. Natives to North America are marked with an asterisk *. This list is by Ernest Walker.

MARCH

Blue Wind-flower, Anemone blanda. 6 in. March-May. Sky-blue, star-like flowers. Foliage deeply cut. For border and rockwork.

Bloodroot, Sanguinaria Canadensis.* 6 in. March-April. Pure white. Glaucous foliage. Partial shade. Border or rock-work.

APRIL

Mountain Rock-cress, Arabis albida. 6 in. April-June. Flowers pure white; close heads in profusion. Fragrant. For dry places and rock-work.

Purple Rock-cress, Aubrietia deltoidea. 6 in. April-June. Small purple flowers in great profusion.

Daisy, Bellis perennis, 4-6 in. April-July. Flowers white, pink, or red; single or double. The double varieties are the more desirable. Cover the plants in winter with leaves. May be raised from seed, like pansies.

Spring Beauty, Claytonia Virginica.* 6 in. April-May. Clusters of light pink flowers. Partial shade. From six to a dozen should be set together.

Shooting Star, Dodecatheon Meadia.* 1 ft. April-May. Reddish purple flowers, orange-yellow eye, in clusters. Cool, shady location. Plant several in a place.

Dog's-bane, Doronicum plantagineum varexcelsum. 20 in. April-June. Large, showy flowers; orange-yellow. Bushy plants.

Liver-leaf, Hepatica acutiloba* and triloba.* 6 in. April-May. Flowers small but numerous, varying white and pink. Partial shade.

Hardy Candytuft, Iberis sempervirens. 10 in. April-May. Small white flowers in clusters; profuse. Large, spreading, evergreen tufts.

Alpine Lamp-flower, Lychnis alpina.* 6 in. April-May. Flowers star-like, in showy heads; pink. For border and rockery.

Early Forget-me-not, Myosotis dissitiflora. 6 in. April-June. Small clusters of deep sky-blue flowers. Tufted habit.

Everblooming F., M. palustris var. semperflorens. 10 in. Light blue; spreading habit.

Blue-bells, Mertensia Virginica.* 1 ft. April-May. Flowers blue, changing to pink; pendent; tubular; not showy, but beautiful. Rich soil. Partial shade.

Tree Peony, Pæonia Moutan. (See May, Pæonia.)

Moss Pink, Phlox subulata.* 6 in. April-June. Numerous deep pink, small flowers; creeping habit; evergreen. Suitable for dry places as a covering plant.

Trilliums.* Of several species; always attractive and useful in the border (Fig. 252). They are common in rich woods and copses. Dig the tubers in late summer and plant them directly in the border. The large ones will bloom the following spring. The same may be said of the erythronium, or dog's-tooth violet or adder's tongue, and of very many other early wild flowers.

MAY

Ajuga reptans. 6 in. May-June. Spikes of purple flowers. Grows well in shady places; spreading. A good cover plant.

Madwort, Alyssum saxatile var. compactum. 1 ft. May-June. Flowers fragrant, in clusters, clear golden-yellow. Foliage silvery. Well-drained soil. One of the best yellow flowers.

Columbine, Aquilegia glandulosa and others (Fig. 253). 1 ft. May-June. Deep blue sepals; white petals. Aquilegias are old favorites. (See June.) The wild A. Canadensis* is desirable.

Lily-of-the-Valley, Convallaria majalis.* 8 in. May-June. Racemes of small white bells; fragrant. Well known. Partial shade. (See Chap. VIII.)

Fumitory, Corydalis nobilis. 1 ft. May-June. Large clusters of fine yellow flowers. Bushy, upright habit. Does well in partial shade.

Bleeding-Heart, Dicentra spectabilis. 2-1/2 ft. May-June. Well known. Racemes of heart-shaped, deep pink and white flowers. Will bear partial shade.

Crested Iris, Iris cristata.* 6 in. May-June. Flowers blue, fringed with yellow. Leaves sword-shaped.

German Iris, I. Germanica. 12-15 in. May-June. Numerous varieties and colors. Large flowers, 3-4 on a stem. Broad, glaucous, sword-shaped leaves.

Peony, Pæonia officinalis. 2 ft. May-June. This is the well-known herbaceous peony. There are numerous varieties and hybrids,

Large flowers, 4-6 in. across. Crimson, white, pink, yellowish, etc. Suitable for lawn or the border. Fig. 250.

Tree Peony, P. Moutan. 4ft. April-May. Numerous named varieties. Flowers as above, excepting yellow. Branched, dense, shrubby habit.

Meadow Sage, Salvia pratensis. 2-1/2 ft. May-June, August. Spikes of deep blue flowers. Branching from the ground.

JUNE

Achillea Ptarmica, fl. pl., var. "The Pearl." 1/2 ft. June-August. Small double white flowers, in few-flowered clusters. Rich soil.

Wind-flower, Anemone Pennsylvanica.* 18 in. June-September. White flowers on long stems. Erect habit. Does well in the shade.

St. Bruno's Lily, Paradisea Liliastrum. 18 in. June-July. Bell-like, white flowers in handsome spikes.

Golden-spurred Columbine, Aquilegia chrysantha.* 3 ft. June-August. Golden flowers with slender spurs; fragrant.

Rocky Mountain Columbine, A. cœrulea.* 1 ft. June-August. Flowers with white petals and deep blue sepals, 2-3 in. in diameter. (See May.)

Woodruff, Asperula odorata. 6 in. June-July. Small white flowers. Herbage fragrant when wilted. Does well in shade; spreading habit. Used for flavoring drinks, scenting and protecting garments.

Astilbe Japonica (incorrectly called Spiræa). 2 ft. June-July. Small white flowers in a feathery inflorescence. Compact habit.

Poppy Mallow, Callirrhoë involucrata.* 10 in. June-October. Large crimson flowers, with white centers. Trailing habit. For border and rockery.

Carpathian Harebell, Campanula Carpatica (Fig. 254). 8 in. June-September. Flowers deep blue. Tufted habit. For border or rockery. Good for cutting.

C. glomerata var. Dahurica. 2 ft. June-August. Deep purple flowers in terminal clusters. Branching from the ground. Erect habit.

Canterbury Bell, C. Medium. An old favorite. It is biennial, but blooms the first season if sown early.

Corydalis lutea. 1 ft. June-September. Flowers yellow, in terminal clusters. Loose branching habit. Glaucous foliage.

Scotch Pink, Dianthus plumarius. 10 in. June-July. White and pink-ringed flowers on slender stems. Densely tufted habit.

Fringed Pink, D. superbus. 18 in. July-August. Fringed flowers. Lilac tint.

Gas Plant, Dictamnus Fraxinella. 3 ft. June. Flowers purple, showy, fragrant; in long spikes. Regular habit. Var. alba. White.

Gaillardia aristata.* 2 ft. June-October. Showy orange and maroon flowers on long stems. Good for cutting. Hybrid gaillardias offer quite a variety of brilliant colors.

Heuchera sanguinea.* 18 in. June-September. Flowers in open panicles, scarlet, on clustered stems from a tufted mass of pretty foliage.

Japan Iris, Iris laevigata (I. Kaempferi). 2-3 ft. June-July. Large flowers of various colors, in variety. Green, sword-like leaves. Dense tufted habit. Prefers a moist situation.

Blazing Star, Liatris spicata.* 2 ft. June-August. Spikes of fine, small purple flowers. Slender foliage. Unbranched, erect stems. Will grow in the poorest soil.

Iceland Poppy, Papaver nudicaule.* 1 ft. June-October. Bright yellow flowers. A close, dense habit. Erect, naked stems. The varieties Album, white, and Miniatum, deep orange, are also desirable.

Oriental Poppy, P. orientale. 2-4 ft. June. Flowers 6-8 in. across; deep scarlet, with a purple spot at the base of each petal. There are other varieties of pink, orange, and crimson shades.

Pentstemon barbatus var. Torreyi.* 3-4 ft. June-September. Crimson flowers in long spikes. Branching from the base. Erect habit.

Perennial Phlox, Phlox paniculata* and hybrids with P. maculata.* 2-3 ft. June. A great variety of colors in selfs and variegated forms. Flowers borne in large, flat panicles. (Figs. 246, 248.)

Rudbeckia maxima* 5-6 ft. August. Large flowers; cone-like center and long, drooping, yellow petals.

Dropwort, Ulmaria Filipendula. 3 ft. June-July. White flowers in compact clusters. Tufted foliage, dark green and handsomely cut. Erect stems. (Often referred to Spiræa.)

Adam's Needle, Yucca filamentosa.* 4-5 ft. June-July. Waxen white, pendulous, liliaceous flowers in a great thyrsus. Leaves long, narrow, dark green, with marginal filaments. For the lawn, and for massing in large grounds.

JULY

Hollyhock, Althæa rosea. 5-8 ft. Summer and fall. Flowers white, crimson, and yellow, lavender and purple. Stately plants of spire-like habit; useful for the back of the border, or beds and groups. The newer double varieties have flowers as fine as a camellia. The plant is nearly biennial, but in rich, well-drained soil and with winter protection it becomes perennial. Easily grown from seed, blooming the second year. Seeds may be sown in August in frames and carried over winter in the same place. The first year's bloom is usually the best.

Yellow Chamomile, Anthemis tinctoria. 12-38 in. July-November. Flowers bright yellow, 1-2 in. in diameter. Useful for cutting. Dense, bushy habit.

Delphinium Chinense. 3 ft. July-September. Variable colors; from deep blue to lavender and white. Fine for the border.

D. formosum. 4 ft. July-September. Fine spikes of rich blue flowers. One of the finest blue flowers cultivated.

Funkia lancifolia. (See under August.)

Helianthus multiflorus* var. fl. pl. 4 ft. July-September. Large double flowers, of a fine golden color. Erect habit. An excellent flower.

Lychnis Viscaria var. flore pleno. 12-15 in. July-August. Double, deep rose-red flowers in spikes. For groups and masses.

Monarda didyma.* 2 ft. July-October. Showy scarlet flowers in terminal heads.

Pentstemon grandiflorus.* 2 ft. July-August. Leafy spikes of showy purple flowers.

P. lœvigalus var. Digitalis.* 3 ft. July-August. Pure white flowers in spikes, with purple throats.

Platycodon grandiflorum (Campanula grandiflora). 3 ft. July-September. Deep blue, bell-shaped flowers. Dense, fine, erect habit.

P. Mariesi. 1 ft. July-September. Flowers larger; deep violet-blue. Heavier foliage.

AUGUST

Day Lily, Funkia subcordata. 18 in. August-October. Trumpet, lily-like, pure-white flowers in clusters, borne upon a stalk from the midst of a group of heart-shaped green leaves.

F. lancifolia var. albo-marginata. July-August. Lavender flowers. Lance-like leaves margined with white.

Flame Flower, Kniphofia aloides (Tritoma Uvaria). 3 ft. August-September. Bright orange-scarlet flowers, in close, dense spikes, at the summit of several scape-like stems. Leaves slender, forming a large tuft. For lawn and borders. Hardy only when covered with litter or straw in winter.

Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis.* 2-1/4-4 ft. August-September. Flowers intense cardinal-red, of unrivaled brilliancy. Tall spikes. Stems clustered; erect.

Giant Daisy, Chrysanthemum (or Pyrethrum) uliginosum. 3-5 ft. July-October. Flowers white, with golden centers. About 2 in. across. A stout, upright, bushy plant. Useful for cutting.

Golden Glow, Rudbeckia laciniata.* 6-7 ft. August-September. Large double golden-yellow flowers in great profusion. Bushy habit. Cut off when done flowering. Leaves appear at the base and a new crop of flowers, on stems about 1 ft. high, appear in October.

Goldenrod, Solidago rigida.* 3-5 ft. August-October. Flowers large for this genus, in close, short racemes in a corymbose-paniculate cluster. Fine, deep yellow. Erect habit. One of the best of the goldenrods.

SEPTEMBER

Japanese Wind-flower, Anemone Japonica. 2 ft. August-October. Flowers large, bright red. One of the best autumn flowers.

A. Japonica var. alba. Flowers pure white, with yellow centers. Fine for cutting.

OCTOBER

Hardy Chrysanthemums. The Chinese and Japanese Chrysanthemums, so well known, are hardy in light, well-drained soils, if well protected with litter or leaves during the winter, and in such situations will stand without protection south of Indianapolis. Chrysanthemums are gross feeders, and should have a rich soil.

But there is a race of hardier or border chrysanthemums that is again coming into favor, and it is sure to give much satisfaction to those who desire flowers in latest fall. These chrysanthemums are much like the "artemisias" of our mother's gardens, although improved in size, form, and in range of color.

One hundred extra-hardy perennial herbs.

The following list of 100 "best hardy perennials" is adapted from a report of the Central Experimental Farm, Ottawa, Ontario. These plants are chosen from over 1000 species and varieties that have been on trial at that place. Those considered to be the best twenty-five for Canada are marked by a dagger †; and those native to North America by an asterisk *.

Achillea Ptarmica flore pleno.--Height, 1 foot; in bloom fourth week of June; flowers, small, pure white, double, and borne in clusters; blooming freely throughout the summer. †

Aconitum autumnale.--Height, 3 to 4 feet; September; flowers, bluish purple, borne in loose panicles.

Aconitum Napellus.--Height, 3 to 4 feet; July; flowers, deep blue, borne on a large terminal spike; desirable for the rear of the border.

Adonis vernalis.--Height, 6 to 9 inches; first week of May; flowers, large, lemon-yellow, borne singly from the ends of the stems.

Agrostemma (Lychnis) Coronaria var. atropurpurea.--Height, 1 to 2 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, medium size, bright crimson, borne singly from the sides and ends of the stems; a very showy plant with silvery foliage, and continues to bloom throughout the summer.

Anemone patens.*--Height 6 to 9 inches; fourth week of April; flowers, large, and deep purple.

Anthemis tinctoria var. Kelwayi.--Height, 1 to 2 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, large, deep yellow, borne singly on long stems; it continues to bloom profusely throughout the summer; is very showy and valuable for cutting. †

Aquilegia Canadensis.*--Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; third week of May; flowers, medium size, red and yellow.

Aquilegia chrysantha.*--Height, 3 to 4 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, large, bright lemon-yellow, with long slender spurs; much later than other columbines. †

Aquilegia cœrulea.*--Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; fourth week of May; flowers, large, deep blue with white center and long spurs. †

Aquilegia glandulosa.--Height, 1 foot; third week of May; flowers, large, deep blue with white center and short spurs.

Aquilegia oxysepala.--Height, 1 foot; second week in May; flowers, large, deep purplish blue with blue and yellow centers; a very desirable early species.

Aquilegia Stuarti.--Height 9 to 12 inches; third week of May; flowers, large, deep blue with white center; one of the best.

Arabis alpina.--Height, 6 inches; first week in May; flowers, small, pure white, in clusters.

Arnebia echioides.--Height, 9 inches; third week of May; flowers, yellow, borne in clusters with petals spotted with purple. One of the most charming of early flowering plants.

Asclepias tuberosa.*--Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; third week of July. Flowers, bright orange, borne in clusters. Very showy.

Aster alpinus.*--Height, 9 inches; first week of June; flowers, large, bright purple, borne on long stems from the base of the plant; the earliest flowering of all the asters.

Aster Amellus var. Bessarabicus.--Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; July to September; flowers, large, deep purple, singly on long stems; very fine. †

Aster Novae-Anglae var. roseus.*--Height, 5 to 7 feet; fourth week of August; flowers, bright pink, borne profusely in large terminal clusters; very showy.

Boltonia asteroides*--Height, 4 to 5 feet; September; flowers, smaller than the next, pale pink, borne very profusely in large panicles; much later than the next species.

Boltonia latisquama*--Height, 4 feet; first week of August; flowers, large, white, somewhat resembling asters, and borne very profusely in large panicles.

Campanula Carpatica.--Height, 6 to 9 inches; first week of July; flowers, medium size, deep blue, borne profusely in loose panicles; continues in bloom throughout the summer. A white variety of this is also good.

Campanula Grossekii.--Height, 3 feet; first week of July; flowers, large, deep blue, borne on a long spike.

Campanula persicifolia.--Height, 3 feet; flowers, large, blue, borne in a raceme with long flower stems. There are also white and double varieties which are good.

Clematis recta.--Height, 4 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, small, pure white, borne profusely in dense clusters. This is a very compact bushy species and desirable for the rear of the border. Clematis Jackmani with large deep purple flowers and Clematis Vitalba with small white flowers, are excellent climbing sorts.

Convallaria majalis* (Lily-of-the-valley).--Height, 6 to 9 inches; latter part of May.

Coreopsis delphiniflora.*--Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of July; flowers, large, yellow, with dark centers and borne singly with long stems.

Coreopsis grandiflora.*--Height, 2 to 3 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, large, deep yellow, borne singly on long stems, blooming profusely throughout the summer.

Coreopsis lanceolata.*--Height, 2 feet; fourth week of June; flowers large though slightly smaller than the last, and borne on long stems, blooming throughout the season.†

Delphinium Cashmerianum.--Height, 1-1/2 feet; first week of July; flowers, pale to bright blue, in large open heads.†

Dianthus plumarius flore pleno.--Height, 9 inches; second week of June; flowers, large, white or pink, very sweet scented; and two or three borne on a stem. A variety called Mrs. Simkins is especially desirable, being very double, white and deliciously perfumed, almost equaling a carnation. It blooms the fourth week of June.

Dicentra spectabilis (Bleeding Heart).--Height, 3 feet; second week of May; flowers, heart-shaped, red and white in pendulous racemes.

Dictamnus albus.--Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; second week of June; flowers, white with an aromatic fragrance, and borne in large terminal racemes. A well-known variety has purple flowers with darker markings.

Doronicum Caucasicum.--Height, 1 foot; second week of May; flowers, large, yellow, and borne singly.

Doronicum plantagineum var. excelsum.--Height, 2 feet; third week of May; flowers, large and deep yellow.†

Epimedium rubrum.--Height, 1 foot; second week of May; flowers, small, bright crimson and white, borne in a loose panicle. A very dainty and beautiful little plant.

Erigeron speciosus.*--Height, 1-1/2 feet; second week of July; flowers, large, violet-blue, with yellow centers, and borne in large clusters on long stems.

Funkia subcordata (grandiflora).--Height, 1-1/2 feet; August; flowers, large and white, borne in racemes. The best funkia grown at Ottawa; both leaves and flowers are handsome.

Gaillardia aristata var. grandiflora.*--Height, 1 1/2 feet; third week of June; flowers, large, yellow, with deep orange centers, and borne singly on long stems. The named varieties, Superba and Perfection, are more highly colored and are of great merit. These all continue blooming profusely until late in the autumn.†

Gypsophila paniculata (Infant's breath).--Height, 2 feet; second week of July; flowers, small, white, borne profusely in large open panicles.

Helenium autumnale*--Height, 6 to 7 feet; second week of July; flowers, large, deep yellow, borne in large heads; very ornamental in late summer.

Helianthus doronicoides.*--Height, 6 to 7 feet; second week of August; flowers, large, bright yellow, and borne singly; continues blooming for several weeks.

Helianthus multiflorus.*--Height, 4 feet; flowers, large, double, bright yellow, and borne singly; a very striking late-flowering perennial.

Heuchera sanguinea*--Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; first week of June; flowers, small, bright, scarlet, borne in open panicles; continues blooming throughout the summer.

Hemerocallis Dumortierii.--Height, 1-1/2 feet; second week of June; flowers, large, orange-yellow, with a brownish tinge on the outside, and three or four on a stem.†

Hemerocallis flava.--Height, 2 to 3 feet; latter part of June; flowers, bright orange-yellow and fragrant.†

Hemerocallis minor.--Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; second week of July; flowers, medium size and yellow; blooms later than the two preceding species and has a smaller flower and narrower foliage.

Hibiscus Moscheutos.*--Height, 5 feet; third week of August; flowers, very large, varying in color from white to deep pink. A variety called "Crimson Eye" is very good. This plant makes a fine show in late summer.

Hypericum Ascyron (or pyramidatum).*--Height, 3 feet; fourth week of July; flowers, large, yellow, and borne singly.

Iberis sempervirens.--Height, 6 to 12 inches; third week of May; flowers, pure white, fragrant, and borne in dense flat clusters.†

Iris Chamœiris.--Height, 6 inches; fourth week of May; flowers, bright yellow with brown markings.

Iris flavescens.--Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; first week of June; flowers, lemon-yellow with brown markings.

Iris Florentina.--Height, 2 feet; first week of June; flowers, very large, pale blue or lavender, sweet scented.†

Iris Germanica.--Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of June; flowers, very large, of elegant form; color, deep lilac and bright purple, sweet scented. There is a large number of choice varieties of this iris.†

Iris lœvigata (Kœmpferi).--Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; first week of July; flowers, purple and modified colors, very large and distinct in color and shape.†

Iris pumila.--Height, 4 to 6 inches; third week of May; flowers, deep purple. There are several varieties.

Iris Sibirica.--Height, 3 to 4 feet; fourth week of May; flowers, deep blue, borne on long stems in clusters of two or three. This species has many varieties.

Iris variegata.--Height, 1 to 1 1/2 feet; first week of June; flowers, yellow and brown, veined with various shades of brown.

Lilium auratum.--Height, 3 to 5 feet; July; flowers, very large, white, with a yellow central band on each petal, and thickly spotted with purple and red. The most showy of all lilies and a splendid flower. This has proved hardy at the Central Experimental Farm, although it has been reported tender in some localities.†

Lilium Canadense.*--Height, 2 to 3 feet; latter part of May; flowers, yellow to pale red with reddish spots, pendulous.

Lilium elegans.--Height, 6 inches; first week of July; flowers, pale red; several varieties are better than the type.

Lilium speciosum.--Height, 2 to 3 feet; July; flowers, large, white, tinged and spotted with deep pink and red. Hardier than Lilium auratum and almost as fine. There are several fine varieties.†

Lilium superbum.*--Height, 4 to 6 feet; first week of July; flowers, very numerous, orange red, thickly spotted with dark brown. An admirable lily for the rear of the border. †

Lilium tenuifolium.--Height, 1 1/2 to 2 feet; third week of June; flowers, pendulous and bright scarlet. One of the most graceful of all lilies.

Lilium tigrinum.--Height, 2 to 4 feet; flowers, large, deep orange, spotted thickly with purplish black.

Linum perenne.--Height, 1 1/2 feet; first week of June; flowers, large deep blue, borne in loose panicles, continuing throughout the summer.

Lobelia cardinalis.*--Height, 2 to 3 feet; August; flowers, bright scarlet, borne in terminal racemes; very showy.

Lychnis Chalcedonica flore pleno.--Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of July; flowers, bright crimson, double, and borne in terminal racemes.

Lysimachia clethroides.--Height, 3 feet; fourth week of July; flowers, white, borne in long spikes. A very striking late-flowering perennial.

Myosotis alpestris.--Height, 6 inches; third week of May; flowers, small, bright blue with a yellowish eye. A very profuse bloomer.

Œnothera Missouriensis.*--Height, 1 foot; fourth week of June; flowers, very large, rich yellow, and borne singly, throughout the summer.

Pœonia officinalis.--Height, 2 to 4 feet; early part of July. The double-flowered varieties are the best, and can be obtained in several colors and shades, †

Papaver nudicaule*--Height, 1 foot; second week of May; flowers, medium size, orange, white, or yellow, almost continuously until late autumn. †

Papaver orientale.--Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of June; flowers, very large, scarlet, and variously marked, according to variety, there being many forms.

Pentstemon barbatus var. Torreyi.*--Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of July; flowers, deep red, borne in long spikes, very ornamental.

Phlox amœna.*--Height, 6 inches; second week of May; flowers, medium size, bright pink, in compact clusters.

Phlox decussata* (the garden perennial hybrids).--Height, 1 to 3 feet; third week of July; flowers, of many beautiful shades and colors, are found in the large number of named varieties of this phlox, which continues to bloom until late in the autumn. †

Phlox reptans.*--Height, 4 inches; fourth week of May; flowers, medium size, purple, and borne in small clusters.

Phlox subulata* (setacea).--Height, 6 inches; third week of May; flowers, medium size, deep pink, and borne in small clusters.

Platycodon grandiflorum.--Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; second week of July; flowers, very large, deep blue, borne singly or in twos.†

Platycodon grandiflorum var. album.--A white-flowered variety of the above and makes a fine contrast to it when they are grown together. It blooms a few days earlier than the species.

Platycodon Mariesii.--Height, 1 foot; second week of July; flowers, large and deep blue.

Polemonium cœruleum.*--Height, 2 feet; second week of June; flowers, deep blue, borne in terminal spikes.

Polemonium reptans.*--Height, 6 inches; third week of May; flowers, medium in size, blue, and borne profusely in loose clusters.

Polemonium Richardsoni.*--Height, 6 inches; third week of May; flowers, medium in size, blue, borne profusely in pendulous panicles.

Potentilla hybrida var. versicolor.--Height, 1 foot; fourth week of June; flowers, large, deep orange and yellow, semi-double.

Primula cortusoides.--Height, 9 inches; third week of May; flowers, small, deep rose, in compact heads.

Pyrethrum (or Chrysanthemum) uliginosum.--Height, 4 feet; September; flowers, large, white with yellow centers, and borne singly on long stems.

Rudbeckia laciniata* (Golden Glow).--Height, 5 to 6 feet; August; flowers, large, lemon-yellow, double, and borne on long stems. One of the best of lately introduced perennials. †

Rudbeckia maxima.*--Height, 5 to 6 feet; July and August; flowers, large, with a long cone-shaped center and bright yellow rays, and borne singly. The whole plant is very striking.

Scabiosa Caucascia.--Height, 1-1/2 feet; first week of July; flowers, large, light blue, and borne singly on long stems, very freely throughout remainder of the summer.

Solidago Canadensis* (Golden-rod).--Height, 3 to 5 feet; first week of August; flowers, small, golden yellow, and borne in dense panicles.

Spiræa (properly Aruncus) astilboides.--Height, 2 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, small, white, very numerous, and borne in many branched panicles. Both foliage and flowers are ornamental.

Spiræa (or Ulmaria) Filipendula.--Height, 2 to 3 feet; third week of June; flowers, pure white, borne profusely in loose panicles. The foliage of this species is also very good. There is a double flowered variety which is very effective. †

Spiræa (Ulmaria) purpurea var. elegans.--- Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of July; flowers, whitish with crimson anthers, borne very profusely in panicles.

Spiræa Ulmaria (Ulmaria pentapetala).--Height, 3 to 4 feet; second week of July; flowers, very numerous, dull white, borne in large compound heads, having a soft, feathery appearance.

Spiræa venusta (Ulmaria rubra var. venusta).--Height, 4 feet; second week of July; flowers, small, bright pink, borne profusely in large panicles. †

Statice latifolia.--Height, 1-1/2 feet; first week of July; flowers, small, blue, borne very profusely in loose panicles. Very effective in the border.

Thalictrum aquilegifolium.--Height, 4 to 5 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, small, white to purplish, very numerous and borne in large panicles.

Trollius Europœus.--Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; fourth week of May; flowers, large, bright yellow, continuing a long time.

4. BULBS AND TUBERS

(See the particular culture of the different kinds in Chapter VIII; and instructions for forcing on *p. 345.)

It is customary to write of bulbs and tubers together, because the tops and flowers of all the bulbous and tuberous plants spring from large reservoirs of stored food, giving rise to similar methods of culture and of storage.

Structurally, the bulb is very different from the tuber, however. A bulb is practically a large dormant bud, the scales representing the leaves, and the embryo stem lying in the center. Bulbs are condensed plants in storage. The tuber, on the other hand, is a solid body, with buds arising from it. Some tubers represent thickened stems, as the Irish potato, and some thickened roots, as probably the sweet-potato, and some both stem and root, as the turnip, parsnip, and beet. Some tubers are very bulb-like in appearance, as the corms of crocus and gladiolus.

Using the word "bulb" in the gardener's sense to include all these plants as a cultural group, we may throw them into two classes: the hardy kinds, to be planted in fall; and the tender kinds, to be planted in spring.

Fall-planted bulbs.

The fall-planted bulbs are of two groups: the "Holland bulbs" or early spring bloomers, as crocus, tulip (Fig. 255), hyacinth (Fig. 262), narcissus (Fig. 260), squill (Fig. 256), snowdrop; the summer bloomers, as lilies (Figs. 258, 259). The treatments of the two groups are so similar that they may be discussed together.

All these bulbs may be planted as soon as they are mature; but in practice they are kept till late September or October before they are put into the ground, as nothing is gained by earlier planting, and, moreover, the ground is usually not ready to receive them until some other crop is removed.

These bulbs are planted in the fall (1) because they keep better in the ground than when stored; (2) because they will take root in fall and winter and be ready for the first warmth of spring; (3) and because it is usually impossible to get on the ground early enough in spring to plant them with much hope of success for that season.

The bulbs lie dormant until spring, so far as outward appearances go; they are mulched to insure that they will not start in warm weather of fall or winter, and to protect the ground from heaving.

To secure good bulbs and of the desired varieties, the order should be placed in spring or early summer. For flower-garden effects, the large and mature bulbs should be secured; for colonizing in shrubbery or on the lawn, the smaller sizes may be sufficient. Insist that your bulbs shall be first class, for there is wide difference in the quality; even with the best of treatment, good results cannot be secured from poor bulbs.

It is not generally known that there are autumn-flowering bulbs. Several species of crocus bloom in the fall, C. sativus (the saffron crocus) and C. speciosus being the ones generally recommended. The colchicums are excellent autumn-blooming bulbs and should be more generally planted. C. autumnale, rosy purple, is the usual species. These autumn-blooming bulbs are planted in August or early September and treated in general the same as other similar bulbs. The colchicums usually remain in the ground several years in good condition.

All kinds of bulbs are partial to a deep, rich, water-free soil. This is no small part of their successful culture. The spot should be well drained, either naturally or artificially. In flattish and rather moist lands the beds may be made above the surface, some 18 inches high, and bordered with grass. A layer of rough stones a foot deep is sometimes used in the bottom of ordinary beds for drainage, and with good results, when other methods are not convenient, and when there is fear that the bed may become too wet. If the place is likely to be rather wet, place a large handful of sand where the bulb is to go and set the bulb on it. This will keep the water from standing around the bulb. Very good results may be had in heavy soil by this method.

The soil for bulbs should be well enriched with old manure. Fresh manure should never be allowed close about the bulb. The addition of leafmold and a little sand also improves the texture of heavy soils. For lilies the leafmold may be omitted. Let the spading be at least a foot deep. Eighteen inches will be none too deep for lilies. To make a bulb bed, throw out the top earth to the depth of 6 inches. Put into the bottom of the bed about 2 inches of well-rotted manure and spade it into the soil. Throw back half of the top soil, level it off nicely, set the bulbs firmly on this bed, and then cover them with the remainder of the earth; in this way one will have the bulbs from 3 to 4 inches below the surface, and they will all be of uniform depth and will give uniform results if the bulbs themselves are well graded. The "design" bed may be worked out easily in this way, for all the bulbs are fully exposed after they are placed, and they are all covered at once.

Of course, it is not necessary that the home gardener go to the trouble of removing the earth and replacing it if he merely wants good blooms; but if he wants a good bed as a whole, or a mass effect, he should take this pains. In the shrubberies and on the lawn he may "stick them in" here and there, seeing that the top of the bulb is 3 to 6 inches beneath the surface, the depth depending on the size of the bulb (the bigger and stronger the bulb, the deeper it may go) and on the nature of the soil (they may go deeper in sand than in hard clay).

As the time of severe winter freezing approaches, the bed should receive a mulch of leaves, manure or litter, to the depth of 4 inches or more, according to the latitude and the kind of material. If leaves are used, 3 inches will be enough, because the leaves lie close together and may smother out the frost that is in the ground and let the bulbs start. It will be well to let the mulch extend 1 foot or more beyond the margins of the bed. When cold weather is past, half of the mulch should be removed. The remainder may be left on till there is no longer danger of frost. On removing the last of the mulch, lightly work over the surface among the bulbs with a thrust-hoe.

If the weather happens to be very bright during the blooming season, the duration of the flowers may be prolonged by light shading--as with muslin, or slats placed above the beds. If planted where they have partial shade from surrounding trees or shrubbery, the beds will not need attention of this kind.

Lilies may remain undisturbed for years. Crocuses and tulips may stand two years, but hyacinths should be taken up each year and replanted; tulips also will be better for the same treatment. Narcissus may remain for some years, or until they show signs of running out.

Bulbs that are to be taken up should be left in the ground till the foliage turns yellow, or dies down naturally. This gives the bulbs a chance to ripen. Cutting off the foliage and digging too early is a not uncommon and serious mistake. Bulbs that have been planted in places that are wanted for summer bedding plants may be dug with the foliage on and heeled-in under a tree, or along a fence, to stand till ripened. The plant should be injured as little as possible, as the foliage of this year makes the flowers of the next. When the foliage has turned yellow or died down, the bulbs--after cleaning, and curing them for a few hours in the sun--may be stored in the cellar or other cool, dry place, to await fall planting. Bulbs that are lifted prematurely in this way should be planted permanently in the borders, for they will not make good flower-garden subjects the following year. In fact, it is usually best to buy fresh, strong bulbs each year of tulips, hyacinths, and crocuses if the best results are desired, using the old bulbs for shrubberies and mixed borders.

Crocuses and squills are often planted in the lawn. It is not to be expected that they will last more than two to three years, however, even if care is taken not to cut the tops closely when the lawn is cut. The narcissus (including daffodils and jonquils) will remain in good condition for years in grassy parts of the place, if the tops are allowed to mature.

List of outdoor fall-planted bulbs for the North.

Crocus.
Hyacinth.
Tulip.
Narcissus (including daffodil and jonquil).
Scilla, or squill.
Snowdrop (Galanthus).
Snowflake (Leucoium).
Chionodoxa.
Hardy alliums.
Bulbocodium.
Camassia.
Lily-of-the-valley.
Winter aconite (Eranthis hycmalis).
Dog-tooth violets (Erythronium).
Crown imperial (Fritillaria Imperialis).
Fritillary (Fritillaria Mekagris).
Trilliums.
Lilies.

Peonies, tuberous anemones, tuberous buttercups, iris, bleeding heart, and the like, may be planted in autumn and are often classed with fall-planted bulbs.

Winter bulbs (p. 345).

Some of these bulbs may be made to bloom in the greenhouse, window-garden, or living room in winter. Hyacinths are particularly useful for this purpose, because the bloom is less affected by cloudy weather than that of tulips and crocuses. Some kinds of narcissus also "force" well, particularly the daffodil; and the Paper-white and "Chinese sacred lily" are practically the only common bulbs from which the home gardener may expect good bloom before Christmas. The method of handling bulbs for winter bloom is described under Window-gardening (on *p. 345).

Summer bulbs.

There is nothing special to be said of the culture of the so-called summer-blooming and spring-planted bulbs, as a class. They are tender, and are therefore planted after cold weather is past. For early bloom, they may be started indoors. Of course, any list of spring-planted bulbs is relative to the climate, for what may be planted in spring in New York perhaps may be planted in the fall in Georgia.

The common "summer bulbs" are:--

Gladiolus
Tuberose
Dahlia
Canna
Arum
Calla
Calochortus
Alstremeria
Amaryllis
Colocasia

5. THE SHRUBBERY

(Exclusive of coniferous evergreens and climbing plants.)

The common hardy shrubs or bushes may be planted in fall or spring. In the northernmost parts of the country and in Canada spring planting is usually safer, although on well-drained ground and when thoroughly mulched the plants may even there do well if planted as soon as the leaves drop in fall. If the shrubs are purchased in spring, they are likely to have come from "cellared stock"; that is, the nurserymen dig much of their stock in fall and store it in cellars built for the purpose. While stock that is properly cellared is perfectly reliable, that which has been allowed to get too dry or which has been otherwise improperly handled comes on very slowly in the spring, makes a poor growth the first year, and much of it may die.

In the planting of any kind of trees or shrubs, it is well to remember that nursery-grown specimens generally transplant more readily and thrive better than trees taken from the wild; and this is particularly true if the stock was transplanted in the nursery. Trees that transplant with difficulty, as the papaw or asimina, and some nut trees, may be prepared for removal by cutting some of their roots--and especially the tap-root, if they have such--a year or two in advance.

It is ordinarily best to plow or spade the entire area in which the shrubs are to be set. For a year or two the ground should be tilled between the shrubs, either by horse tools or by hoes and rakes. If the place looks bare, seeds of quick-growing flowers may be scattered about the edges of the mass, or herbaceous perennials may be used.

The larger shrubs, as lilacs and syringas, may be set about 4 feet apart; but the smaller ones should be set about 2 feet apart if it is desired to secure an immediate effect. If after a few years the mass becomes too crowded, some of the specimens may be removed (*p. 76).

Throw the shrubs into an irregular plantation, not in rows, and make the inner edge of the mass more or less undulating and broken.

It is a good practice to mulch the plantation each fall with light manure, leaf mold, or other material. Even though the shrubs are perfectly hardy, this mulch greatly improves the land and promotes growth. After the shrub borders have become two or three years old, the drifting leaves of fall will be caught therein and will be held as a mulch (p. 82).

When the shrubs are first planted, they are headed back one half or more (Fig. 45); but after they are established they are not to be sheared, but allowed to take their own way, and after a few years the outermost ones will droop and meet the green*-sward (*pp. 25, 26).

Many rapid-growing trees may be utilized as shrubs by cutting them off near the ground every year, or every other year, and allowing young shoots to grow. Basswood, black ash, some of the maples, tulip tree, mulberry, ailanthus, paulownia, magnolias, Acer campestre, and others may be treated in this way (Fig. 50).

Nearly all shrubs bloom in spring or early summer. If kinds blooming late in summer or in fall are desired, they maybe looked for in baccharis, caryopteris, cephalanthus, clethra, hamamelis, hibiscus, hydrangea, hypericum, lespedeza, rhus (R. Cotinus), Sambucus Canadensis in midsummer, tamarisk.

Plants that bloom in very early spring (not mentioning such as birches, alders, and hazels) may be found in amelanchier, cydonia, daphne, dirca, forsythia, cercis (in tree list), benzoin, lonicera (L. fragrantissima), salix (S. discolor and other pussy willows), shepherdia.

Shrubs bearing conspicuous berries, pods, and the like, that persist in fall or winter may be found in the genera berberis (particularly B. Thunbergii), colutea, corylus, cratægus, euonymus, ilex, physocarpus, ostrya, ptelea, pyracantha (Plate XIX) pyrus, rhodotypos, rosa (R. rugosa), staphylea, symphoricarpus, viburnum, xanthoceras.

List of shrubbery plants for the North.

The following list of shrubs (of course not complete) comprises a selection with particular reference to southern Michigan and central New York, where the mercury sometimes falls to fifteen degrees below zero. Application is also made to Canada by designating species that have been found to be hardy at Ottawa.

The list is arranged alphabetically by the names of the genera.

The * denotes that the plant is native to North America.

The ‡ indicates species that are recommended by the Central Experimental Farms, Ottawa, Ontario.

It is often difficult to determine whether a group should be listed among shrubs or trees. Sometimes the plant is not quite a tree and is yet something more than a shrub or bush; sometimes the plant may be distinctly a tree in its southern range and a shrub in its northern range; sometimes the same genus or group contains both shrubs and trees. In the following genera there are doubtful cases: æsculus, alnus, amelanchier, betula, caragana, castanea, cornus (C. florida), cratægus, elæagnus, prunus, robinia.

Dwarf buckeye, Æsculus parviflora (Pavia macrostachya).* Attractive in habit, foliage, and flower; produces a large foliage mass.

Alder. Several bushy species of alder are good lawn or border subjects, particularly in wet places or along streams, as A. viridis,* A. rugosa,* A. incana,* and others.

June-berry, Amelanchier Canadensis* and others. Flowers profusely in spring before the leaves appear; some of them become small trees.

Azalea, Azalea viscosa* and A. nudiflora.* Require partial shade, and a woodsy soil.

Japanese azalea, A. mollis (or A. Sinensis). Showy red and yellow or orange flowers; hardy north.

Groundsel tree, "white myrtle," Baccharis halimifolia.* Native on the Atlantic seashore, but grows well when planted inland; valuable for its white fluffy "bloom" (pappus) in latest fall; 4-10 ft.

Spice-bush, Benzoin odoriferum (Lindera Benzoin*). Very early-blooming bush of wet places, the yellow, clustered, small flowers preceding the leaves; 6--10 ft.

Barberry, Berberis vulgaris. Common barberry; 4-6 ft. The purple-leaved form (var. purpurea‡) is popular.

Thunberg's barberry, B. Thunbergii.‡ One of the best of lawn and border shrubs, with compact and attractive habit, deep red autumn foliage and bright scarlet berries in profusion in fall and winter; excellent for low hedges; 2-4 ft.

Mahonia, Berberis Aquifolium.*‡ Evergreen; needs some protection in exposed places; 1-3 ft.

Dwarf birch, Betula pumila.* Desirable for low places; 3-10 ft.

Box, Buxus sempervirens. An evergreen shrub, useful for hedges and edgings in cities; several varieties, some of them very dwarf. See page 220.

Carolina allspice, sweet-scented shrub, Calycanthus floridus.* Dull purple, very fragrant flowers; 3-8 ft.

Siberian pea-tree, Caragana arborescens.‡ Flowers pea-like, yellow, in May; very hardy; 10-15 feet.

Small pea-tree, C. pygmœa. Very small, 1-3 ft, but sometimes grafted on C. arborescens.

Shrubby pea-tree, C. frutescens.‡ Flowers larger than those of C. arborescens; 3--10 ft.

Large-flowered pea-tree, C. grandiflora.‡ Larger-flowered than the last, which it resembles; 4 ft.

Blue spirea, Caryopteris Mastacanthus. Flowers bright blue, in late summer and fall; 2-4 ft., but is likely to die to ground in winter.

Chinquapin or dwarf chestnut, Castanea pumila.* Becomes a small tree, but usually bushy.

Ceanothus, Ceanothus Americanus.* A very small native shrub, desirable for dry places under trees; 2-3 ft. There are many good European garden forms of ceanothus, but not hardy in the northern states.

Button-bush, Cephalanthus occidentalis.* Blossoms in July and August; desirable for water-courses and other low places; 4-10 ft.

Fringe tree, Chionanthus Virginica.* Shrub as large as lilac, or becoming tree-like, with fringe-like white flowers in spring.

White alder, Clethra alnifolia.* A very fine, hardy shrub, producing very fragrant flowers in July and August; should be better known; 4-10 ft.

Bladder senna, Colutea arborescens. Pea-like yellowish flowers in June, and big inflated pods; 8-12 ft.

European osier, Cornus alba (known also as C. Sibirica and C. Tatarica). Branches deep red; 4-8 ft.; the variegated form ‡ has leaves edged white.

Bailey's osier, Cornus Baileyi.* Probably the finest of the native osiers for color of twigs and foliage; 5-8 ft.

Red-twigged osier, Cornus stolonifera.* The red twigs are very showy in winter; 5 to 8 ft.; some bushes are brighter in color than others.

Flowering dogwood, C. florida.* Very showy tree or big shrub, desirable for borders of groups and belts. A red-flowered variety is on the market.

Cornelian Cherry, Cornus Mas. Becoming a small tree, 15-20 ft.; flowers numerous in bunches, yellow, before the leaves; fruit, cherry-like, edible, red.

Hazel or filbert, Corylus maxima var. purpurea. A well-known purple-leaved shrub, usually catalogued as C. Avellana purpurea. The eastern American species (C. Americana* and C. rostrata*) are also interesting.

Cotoneaster. Several species of cotoneaster are suitable for cultivation in the middle and southern latitudes. They are allied to cratægus. Some are evergreen. Some kinds bear handsome persistent fruits.

Wild thorns, Cratœgus punctata,* C. coccinea,*‡ C. Crus-galli,*‡ and others. The native thorn apples or hawthorns, of numerous species, are amongst our best large shrubs for planting and should be much better known; 6-20 ft.

Japanese quince, Cydonia (or Pyrus) Japonica. An old favorite blooming in earliest spring, in advance of the leaves; not hardy at Lansing, Mich.; 4-5 ft.

Maule's Japanese quince, C. Maulei.‡ Bright red; fruit handsome; hardier than C. Japonica; 1-3 ft.

Daphne, Daphne Mezereum. Produces rose-purple or white flowers in abundance in earliest spring before the leaves appear. Should be planted on the edges of groups; leaves deciduous; 1-4 ft.

Garland flower, D. Cneorum.‡ Pink flowers in very early spring and again in autumn; leaves evergreen; 1-1/2 ft.

Deutzia, Deutzia scabra (or crenata) and varieties. Standard shrubs; the variety "Pride of Rochester," with pinkish flowers, is perhaps the best form for the North; 4-6 ft. Of this and the next there are forms with ornamental foliage.

Small deutzia, D. gracilis. Very close little bush, with pure white flowers; 2-3 ft.

Lemoine's deutzia, D. Lemoinei. A hybrid, very desirable; 1-3 ft.

Weigela, Diervilla Japonica and other species. Free bloomers, very fine, in many colors, 4-6 ft.; the forms known as Candida,‡ rosea,‡ Sieboldii variegata,‡ are hardy and good.

Leatherwood, Dirca palustris.* If well grown, the leatherwood makes a very neat plant; blossoms appear before the leaves, but not showy; 4-6 ft.

Russian olive, oleaster, Elœagnus angustifolia.‡ Foliage silvery white; very hardy; becoming a small tree, 15-20 ft.

Wolf-willow, E. argentea.*‡ Large and silvery leaves; suckers badly; 8-12 ft.

Goumi, E. longipes (sometimes called E. edulis). Attractive spreading bush, with handsome edible cranberry-like berries; 5-6 ft.

Burning-bush, Euonymus atropurpureus.* Very attractive in fruit; 8-12 ft., or even becoming tree-like.

Several other species are in cultivation, some of them evergreen. In the North, success may be expected with E. Europœus (sometimes a small tree), E. alatus, E. Bungeanus, E. latifolius, and perhaps others.

Exochorda, Exochorda grandiflora. A large and very showy shrub, producing a profusion of apple-like white flowers in early spring; 6-12 ft; allied to the spireas.

Forsythia, Forsythia viridissima. Blossoms yellow, appearing before the leaves; requires protection in many places North; 6-10 ft.

Drooping forsythia, F. suspensa. Makes an attractive mass on a bank or border; 6-12 ft.

Dyer's weed, Genista tinctoria.‡

Yellow pea-like flowers in June; 1-3 ft.

Silver-bell tree, Halesia tetraptera.*

Bell-shaped white flowers in May; 8-10 ft.

Witch hazel, Hamamelis Virginiana.*

Blossoms in October and November; unique and desirable if well grown; 8-12 ft.

Althea, Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus Syriacus (Althœa frutex).

In many forms, purple, red, and white, and perhaps the best of late summer-blooming shrubs; 8-12 ft.

Hydrangea, Hydrangea paniculata, var. grandiflora.‡

One of the best and most showy small flowering shrubs; 4-10 ft.

Downy hydrangea, H. radiata.*

Attractive in both foliage and flower.

Oak-leaved hydrangea, H. quercifolia.*

This is especially valuable for its luxuriant foliage; even if killed to the ground in winter, it is still worth cultivating for its strong shoots.

The greenhouse hydrangea (H. hortensis in many forms) may be used as an outdoor subject in the South.

St. John's wort, Hypericum Kalmianum,*‡ H. prolificum,* and H. Moserianum.

Small undershrubs, producing bright yellow flowers in profusion in July and August; 2-4 ft.

Winter-berry, Ilex verticillata.*‡

Produces showy red berries, that persist through the winter; should be massed in rather low ground; flowers imperfect; 6-8 ft.

The evergreen hollies are not suitable for cultivation in the North; but in the warmer latitudes, the American holly (Ilex opaca), English holly (I. Aquifolium), and Japanese holly (I. crenata) may be grown. There are several native species.

Mountain laurel, Kalmia latifolia.*

One of the best shrubs in cultivation, evergreen, 5-10 ft., or even becoming a small tree south; usually profits by partial shade; thrives in a peaty or loamy rather loose soil, and said to be averse to limestone and clay; extensively transferred from the wild for landscape effects in large private places; should thrive as far north as it grows wild.

Kerria, corchorus, Kerria Japonica. A bramble-like shrub, producing attractive yellow single or double flowers from July until September; twigs very green in winter. There is a variegated-leaved form. Good for banks and borders; 2-3 ft.

Sand myrtle, Leiophyllum buxifolium.* Evergreen, more or less procumbent; 2-3 ft.

Lespedeza, Lespedeza bicolor.‡ Reddish or purple small flowers in late summer and fall; 4-8 ft.

Lespedeza, L. Sieboldii (Desmodium penduliflorum).‡ Rose-purple large flowers in fall; killed to the ground in winter, but it blooms the following year; 4-5 ft.

Lespedeza, L. Japonica (Desmodium Japonicum). Flowers white, later than those of L. Sieboldii; springs up from the root.

Privet, Ligustrum vulgare, L. ovalifolium (L. Californicum), and L. Amurense.‡ Much used for low hedges and borders; 4-12 ft.; several other species.

Tartarian honeysuckle, Lonicera Tatarica.‡ One of the most chaste and comely of shrubs; 6-10 ft.; pink-flowered; several varieties.

Regel's honeysuckle, L. spinosa (L. Alberti).‡ Blooms a little later than above, pink; 2-4 ft.

Fragrant honeysuckle, L. fragrantissima. Flowers exceedingly fragrant, preceding leaves; 2-6 ft.; one of the earliest things to bloom in spring. There are other upright honeysuckles, all interesting.

Mock-orange (Syringa incorrectly), Philadelphus coronarius.‡ In many forms and much prized; 6-12 ft. Other species are in cultivation, but the garden nomenclature is confused. The forms known as P. speciosus, P. grandiflorus, and var. speciosissimus‡ are good; also the species P. pubescens,* P. Gordonianus,* and P. microphyllus,* the last being dwarf, with small white very fragrant flowers.

Nine-bark, Physocarpus opulifolius (Spiræa opulifolia).* A good vigorous hardy bush, with clusters of interesting pods following the flowers; the var. aurea ‡ is one of the best yellow-leaved shrubs; 6-10 ft.

Andromeda, Pieris floribunda.*

A small ericaceous evergreen; should have some protection from the winter sun; for this purpose, it may be planted on the north side of a clump of trees; 2-6ft.

Shrubby cinquefoil, Potentilla fruticosa.*‡

Foliage ashy; flowers yellow, in June; 2-4 ft.

Sand cherry, Prunus pumila* and P. Besseyi.*

The sand cherry of sandy shores grows 5-8 ft.; the western sand cherry (P. Besseyi) is more spreading and is grown for its fruit. The European dwarf cherry (P. fruticosa) is 2-4 ft., with white flowers in umbels.

Flowering almond, Prunus Japonica.

In its double-flowered form, familiar for its early bloom; 3-5 ft; often grafted on other stocks, which are liable to sprout and become troublesome.

Hop-tree, Ptelea trifoliata.*

Very interesting when bearing its roundish winged fruits; 8-10 ft., but becoming larger and tree-like.

Buckthorn, Rhamnus cathartica.

Much used for hedges; 8-12 ft.

Alpine buckthorn, R. alpina.

Foliage attractive; 5-6 ft.

Rhododendron, Rhododendron Catawbiense* and garden varieties.

Hardy in well-adapted locations, 3-8 ft., and higher in its native regions.

Great laurel, R. maximum*

A fine species for mass planting, native as far north as southern Canada. Extensively transplanted from the wild.

White kerria, Rhodotypos kerrioides.

White flowers in May and blackish fruit; 3-5 ft.

Smoke-tree (Fringe-tree erroneously), Rhus Cotinus.

One of the best shrubs for massing; two colors are grown; the billowy "bloom," holding late in the season, is composed of flower stems rather than flowers; size of large lilac bushes.

Dwarf sumac, R. copallina.*

Attractive in foliage, and especially conspicuous in autumn from the brilliant red of its leaves; 3-5 ft., sometimes much taller.

Sumac, smooth and hairy, R. glabra* and R. typhina.*

Useful for the borders of large groups and belts. They may be cut down every year and allowed to sprout (as in Fig. 50). The young tops are handsomest. R. glabra is the finer species for this purpose. They usually grow 10-15 ft. tall.

Osbeck's sumac, R. semialata var. Osbeckii.

Strong bush, 10-20 ft., with leaf-rachis strongly winged, the foliage pinnately compound.

Flowering, or fragrant currant, Ribes aureum.*‡

Well known and popular, for its sweet-scented yellow flowers in May; 5-8 ft.

Red-flowering currant, R. sanguineum.*

Flowers red and attractive; 5-6 ft. R. Gordonianum, recommendable, is a hybrid between R. sanguineum and R. aureum.

Rose acacia, Robinia hispida.*‡

Very showy in bloom; 8-10ft.

Roses, Rosa, various species.

Hardy roses are not always desirable for the lawn. For general lawn purposes the older sorts, single or semi-double, and which do not require high culture, are to be preferred. It is not intended to include here the common garden roses; see Chapter VIII for these. It is much to be desired that the wild roses receive more attention from planters. Attention has been too exclusively taken by the highly improved garden roses.

Japanese rose, Rosa rugosa.‡

Most excellent for lawn planting, as the foliage is thick and not attacked by insects (Fig. 263); white and pink flowered forms; 4-6 ft.

Wild swamp rose, R. Carolina.* 5-8 ft.

Wild dwarf rose, R. humilis* (R. lucida of Michigan). This and other wild dwarf roses, 3-6 ft., may be useful in landscape work.

Say's Rose, R. acicularis var. Sayi.* Excellent for lawns; 4-5 ft.

Red-leaved rose, R. ferruginea (R. rubrifolia).‡ Excellent foliage; flowers single, pink; 5-6 ft.

Japanese bramble, Rubus cratægifolius. Valuable for holding banks; spreads rapidly; very red in winter; 3-4 ft.

Flowering raspberry, mulberry (erroneously), R. odoratus* Attractive when well grown and divided frequently to keep it fresh; there is a whitish form; 3-4 ft.

Japanese wineberry, R. phaenicolasius. Attractive foliage and red hairy canes; fruit edible; 3-5 ft.

Kilmarnock willow, Salix Capraea, var. pendula. A small weeping plant grafted on a tall trunk; usually more curious than ornamental.

Rosemary willow, S. rosmarinifolia‡ of nurserymen (R. incana properly). 6-10 ft.

Shining willow, S. lucida.* Very desirable for the edges of water; 6-12 ft.

Long-leaved willow, S. interior.* Our narrowest-leaved native willow; useful for banks; liable to spread too rapidly; 8-12ft.

Fountain willow, S. purpurea. Attractive foliage and appearance, particularly if cut back now and then to secure new wood; excellent for holding springy banks; 10-20 ft.

Pussy willow, S. discolor* Attractive when massed at some distance from the residence; 10-15 ft.

Laurel-leaved willow, S. pentandra (S. laurifolia of cultivators)‡ See under Trees, p. 329. Many of the native willows might well be cultivated.

Elders, Sambucus pubens* and S. Canadensis.* The former, the common "red elder," is ornamental both in flower and fruit. S. Canadensis is desirable for its profusion of fragrant flowers appearing in July; the former is 6--7 ft. high and the latter 8-10 ft. Golden-leaved elder, S. nigra var. foliis aureis,‡ and also the cut-leaved elder, are desirable forms of the European species; 5-15 ft.

Buffalo-berry, Shepherdia argentea* Silvery foliage; attractive and edible berries; 10-15 ft., often tree-like.

Shepherdia, S. Canadensis.* Spreading bush, 3--8 ft., with attractive foliage and fruit.

Early spirea, Spiræa arguta.‡ One of the earliest bloomers among the spireas; 2-4 ft.

Three-lobed spirea, bridal wreath, S. Van Houttei.‡ One of the most showy early-flowering shrubs; excellent for massing; blooms a little later than the above; 3-6 ft.

Sorbus-leaved spirea, S. sorbifolia (Sorbaria sorbifolid).‡ Desirable for its late blooming,--late June and early July; 4-5 ft.

Plum-leaved spirea, S. prunifolia.

Fortune's spirea, S. Japonica (S. callosa),‡ 2 to 4 ft.

Thunberg's spirea, S. Thunbergii. Neat and attractive in habit; useful for border-hedges; 3-5 ft.

St. Peter's Wreath, S. hypericifolia; 4-5 ft.

Round-leaved spirea, S. bracteata.‡ Follows Van Houttei; 3-6 ft.

Douglas' spirea, S. Douglasii.* Blossoms late,--in July; 4-8 ft.

Hard-hack, S. tomentosa.* Much like the last, but less showy; 3-4 ft.

Willow-leaved spirea, S. salicifolia.*‡ Blooms late; 4-5 ft.

Bladder-nut, Staphylea trifolia* Well-known rather coarse native shrub; 6-12 ft.

Colchican bladder-nut, S. Colchica. Good early flowering shrub; 6-12 ft.

Styrax, Styrax Japonica. One of the most graceful of flowering shrubs, producing fragrant flowers in early summer; 8-10 ft. or more.

Snow-berry, Symphoricarpos racemosus.*‡ Cultivated for its snow-white berries, that hang in autumn and early winter; 3-5 ft.

Indian currant, S. vulgaris.‡ Foliage delicate; berries red; valuable for shady places and against walls; 4-5 ft.

Common lilac, Syringa vulgaris.‡ (The name syringa is commonly misapplied to the species of Philadelphus.) The standard spring-blooming shrub in the North; 8-15 ft.; many forms.

Josika lilac, S. Josikaeca.‡ Blooming about a week later than S. vulgaris; 8-10 ft.

Persian lilac, S. Persica. More spreading and open bush than S. vulgaris; 6-10 ft.

Japanese lilac, S. Japonica.‡ Blooms about one month later than common lilac; 15-20 ft.

Rouen lilac, S. Chinensis (or Rothomagensis)‡ Blooms with the common lilac; flowers more highly colored than those of S. Persica; 5-12 ft.

Chinese lilacs, S. oblata‡ and villosa.‡ The former 10-15 ft. and blooming with common lilac; the latter 4-6 ft., and blooming few days later.

Tamarisk, Tamarix of several species, particularly (for the North) T. Chinensis, T. Africana (probably the garden forms under this name are all T. parviflora), and T. hispida (T. Kashgarica).

All odd shrubs or small trees with very fine foliage, and minute pink flowers in profusion.

Common snowball, Viburnum Opulus.*‡ The cultivated snowball ‡ is a native of the Old World; but the species grows wild in this country (known as High-bush Cranberry),‡ and is worthy of cultivation; 6-10 ft.

Japanese snowball, V. tomentosum (catalogued as V. plicatum). 6-10 ft.

Wayfaring tree, V. Lantana.‡ Fruit ornamental; 8-12 ft., or more.

Plum-leaved haw, V. prunifolium.*‡ Leaves smooth and glossy; 8-15 ft.

Sweet viburnum or sheep-berry, Viburnum Lentago.* Tall coarse bush, or becoming a small tree.

Arrow-wood, V. dentatum.* Usually 5-8 ft., but becoming taller.

Dockmackie, V. acerifolium.* Maple-like foliage; 4-5 ft.

Withe-rod, lilac viburnum, V. cassinoides.* 2-5 ft. Other native and exotic viburnums are desirable.

Xanthoceras, Xanthoceras sorbifolia. Allied to the buckeyes; hardy in parts of New England; 8--10ft.; handsome.

Prickly ash, Zanthoxylum Americanum.*

Shrubs for the South.

Many of the shrubs in the preceding catalogue are also well adapted to the southeastern states. The following brief list includes some of the most recommendable kinds for the region south of Washington, although some of them are hardy farther North. The asterisk * denotes that the plant is native to this country.

The crape myrtle (Lagerstrœmia Indica) is to the South what the lilac is to the North, a standard dooryard shrub; produces handsome red (or blush or white) flowers all summer; 8-12 feet.

Reliable deciduous shrubs for the South are: althea, Hibiscus Syriacus, in many forms; Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis; Azalea calendulacea,* mollis, and the Ghent azalea (A. Pontica); blue spirea, Caryopteris Mastacanihus; European forms of ceanothus; French mulberry, Callicarpa Americana*; calycanthus*; flowering willow, Chilopsis linearis*; fringe, Chionanthus Vir ginica*; white alder, Clethra alnifolia*; corchorus, Kerria Japonica; deutzias, of several kinds; goumi, Elœagnus longipes; pearl bush, Exochorda grandiflora; Japan quince, Cydonia Japonica; golden-bell, Forsythia viridissima; broom, Spartium junceum; hydrangeas, including H. Otaksa, grown under cover in the North; Jasminum nudiflorum; bush honey suckles; mock orange, Philadelphus coronarius and grandiflorus*; pomegranate; white kerria, Rhodotypos kerrioides; smoke tree, Rhus Cotinus; rose locust, Robinia hispida*; spireas of several kinds; Stuartia pentagyna*; snowberry, Symphoricarpos racemosus*; lilacs of many kinds; viburnums of several species, including the European and Japanese snowballs; weigelas of the various kinds; chaste-tree, Vitex Agnus-Castus; Thunberg's barberry; red pepper, Capsicum frutescens; Plumbago Capensis; poinsettia.

A large number of broad-leaved evergreen shrubs thrive in the South, such as: fetter bush, Andromeda floribunda*; some of the palms, as palmettoes* and chamærops; cycas and zamia* far South; Abelia grandiflora; strawberry tree, Arbutus Unedo; ardisias and aucubas, both grown under glass in the North; azaleas and rhododendrons (not only R. Catawbiense* but R. maximum* R, Ponticum, and the garden forms); Kalmia latifolia*; Berberis Japonica and mahonia*; box; Cleyera Japonica; cotoneasters and pyracantha; eleagnus of the types grown under glass in the North; gardenias; euonymus*; hollies*; anise-tree, Illicium anisatum; cherry laurels, Prunus or Laurocerasus of several species; mock orange (of the South), Prunus Caroliniana* useful for hedges; true laurel or bay-tree, Laurus nobilis; privets of several species; Citrus trifoliata, specially desirable for hedges; oleanders; magnolias*; myrtle, Myrtus communis; Osmanthus (Olea) fragrans, a greenhouse shrub North; Osmanthus Aquifolium*; butcher's broom, Ruscus aculeatus; phillyreas*; Pittosporum Tobira; shrubby yuccas*; Viburnum Tinus and others; and the camellia in many forms.

6. CLIMBING PLANTS

Vines do not differ particularly in their culture from other herbs and shrubs, except as they require that supports be provided; and, as they overtop other plants, they demand little room on the ground, and they may therefore be grown in narrow or unused spaces along fences and walls.

In respect to the modes of climbing, vines may be thrown into three groups,--those that twine about the support; those that climb by means of special organs, as tendrils, roots, leaf*stalks; those that neither twine nor have special organs but that scramble over the support, as the climbing roses and the brambles. One must recognize the mode of climbing before undertaking the cultivation of any vine.

Vines may also be grouped into annuals, both tender (as morning-glory) and hardy (as sweet pea); biennials, as adlumia, which are treated practically as annuals, being sown each year for bloom the next year; herbaceous perennials, the tops dying each fall down to a persisting root, as cinnamon vine and madeira vine; woody perennials (shrubs), the tops remaining alive, as Virginia creeper, grape, and wistaria.

There is scarcely a garden in which climbing plants may not be used to advantage. Sometimes it may be to conceal obtrusive objects, again to relieve the monotony of rigid lines. They may also be used to run over the ground and to conceal its nakedness where other plants could not succeed. The shrubby kinds are often useful about the borders of clumps of trees and shrubbery, to slope the foliage down to the grass, and to soften or erase lines in the landscape.

In the South and in California, great use is made of vines, not only on fences but on houses and arbors. In warm countries, vines give character to bungalows, pergolas, and other individual forms of architecture.

If it is desired that the vines climb high, the soil should be fertile; but high climbing in annual plants (as in sweet peas) may be at the expense of bloom.

The use of vines for screens and pillar decorations has increased in recent years until now they may be seen in nearly all grounds. The tendency has been towards using the hardy vines, of which the ampelopsis, or Virginia creeper, is one of the most common. This is a very rapid grower, and lends itself to training more readily than many others. The Japan ampelopsis (A. tricuspidata or Veitchii) is a good clinging vine, growing very rapidly when once established, and brilliantly colored after the first fall frosts. It clings closer than the other, but is not so hardy. Either of these may be grown from cuttings or division of the plants.

Two recommendable woody twiners of recent distribution are the actinidia and the akebia, both from Japan. They are perfectly hardy, and are rapid growers. The former has large thick glossy leaves, not affected by insects or disease, growing thickly along the stem and branches, making a perfect thatch. It blooms in June. The flowers, which are white with a purple center, are borne in clusters, followed by round or longish edible fruits. The akebia has very neat-cut foliage, quaint purple flowers, and often bears ornamental fruit.

Of the tender vines, the nasturtiums and ipomeas and morning-glories are the most common in the North, while the adlumia, balloon vine, passion vine, gourds, and others, are frequently used. One of the best of recent introduction is the annual hop, especially the variegated variety. This is a very rapid-growing vine, seeding itself each year, and needing little care. The climbing geraniums (Pelargonium peltatum and its derivatives) are much used in California. All the tender vines should be planted after danger of frost is past.

So many good vines are now on the market that one may grow a wide variety for many uses. The home gardener should keep his eyes open for the wild vines of his neighborhood and add the best of them to his collection. Most of these natives are worthy of cultivation. Even the poison ivy makes a very satisfactory cover for rough and inaccessible places in the wild, and its autumn color is very attractive; but of course its cultivation cannot be recommended.

Vines that cling closely to walls of buildings are Virginia creeper (one form does not cling well), Boston or Japanese ivy (Ampelopsis tricuspidata; also A. Lowii, with smaller foliage), English ivy, euonymus (E. radicans and the var. variegata), and Ficus repens far south; others that cling less closely are trumpet creeper, and climbing hydrangea (Schizophragma hydrangeoides).

Vines for trailing, or covering the ground, are periwinkle (Vinca), herniaria, moneywort (Lysimachia nummularia), ground-ivy (Nepeta Glechoma), Rosa Wichuraiana, species of native greenbrier or smilax (not the so-called smilax of florists), Rubus laciniatus, dewberries, and also others that usually are not classed as vines. In the South, Japanese honeysuckle and Cherokee rose perform this function extensively. In California, species of mesembryanthemum (herbaceous) are extensively used as ground covers on banks. Page 86.

For quickly covering brush and rough places, the many kinds of gourds may be used; also pumpkins and squashes, watermelons, Cucumis fœtidissima, wild cucumbers (Echinocystis lobata and Sicyos angulata), nasturtiums, and other vigorous annuals. Many of the woody perennials may be used for such purposes, but usually these places are only temporary.

For arbors, strong woody vines are desired. Grapes are excellent; in the South the muscadine and scuppernong grapes are adaptable to this purpose (Plate XV). Actinidia and wistaria are also used. Akebia, dutchman's pipe, trumpet creeper, clematis, honeysuckles, may be suggested. Roses are much used in warm climates.

For covering porches, the standard vine in the North is Virginia creeper. Grapes are admirable, particularly some of the wild ones. Japan honeysuckle is much used; and it has the advantage of holding its foliage well into the winter, or even all winter southward. Actinidia, akebia, wistaria, roses, dutch-man's pipe, and clematis are to be recommended; the large-flowered clematises, however, are more valuable for their bloom than for their foliage (C. paniculata, and the native species are better for covering porches).

The annual vines are mostly used as flower-garden subjects, as the sweet pea, morning-glories, mina, moonflowers, cypress vine, nasturtiums, cobea, scarlet runner. Several species of convolvulus, closely allied to the common morning-glory, have now enriched our lists. For baskets and vases the maurandia and the different kinds of thunbergias are excellent.

The moonflowers are very popular in the South, where the seasons are long enough to allow them to develop to perfection. In the North they must be started early (it is a good plan to soak or notch the seeds) and be given a warm exposure and good soil (see in Chap. VIII).

In the following lists, the plants native to the United States or Canada are marked by an asterisk *.

Annual herbaceous climbers. (Grown each year from seed.)

a. Tendril-climbers

Adlumia (biennial).*

Balloon Vine (Cardiospermum).*

Cobea.

Gourds.

Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum).

Canary-bird Flower (Tropaeolum peregrinum).

Sweet pea (Fig. 265).

Wild cucumber.*

Maurandia.

Gourds or gourd-like plants, as, Coccinia Indica; Cucumis of several interesting species, as C. erinaceus, grossulariœformis, odoratissimus; dipper or bottle gourd (Lagenaria);

vegetable sponge, dish-cloth gourd, rag gourd (Luffa); balsam apple, balsam pear (Momordica); snake gourd (Trichosanthes); bryonopsis;

Abobra viridiflora.

All the above except sweet pea are quickly cut down by frost.

b. Twiners

Beans, Flowering.

Cypress vine.

Dolichos Lablab, and others.

Hop, Japanese.

Ipomcea Quamoclit (cypress vine) and others.

Moonflower, several species.

Morning-glory.

Mina lobata.

Thunbergia.

Mikania scandens.*

Butterfly pea, Centrosema Virginiana.*

Scarlet runner, Phaseolus multiflorus (perennial South).

Velvet or banana bean, Mucuna pruriens var. utilis (for the South).

Perennial herbaceous climbers.

(The tops dying down in fall, but the root living over winter and sending up a new top.)

a. Tendril-climbers or root-climbers

Everlasting pea, Lathyrus latifolius. Clematis of various species, as C. aromatica, Davidiana, heracleaefolia (C. tubulosa), are more or less climbing. Most of the clematises
are shrubs.

May-pop, Passiflora incarnata.* Not reliable north of Virginia.

Wild Gourd, Cucurbita fœtidissima (Cucumis perennius).* Excellent strong rugged vine for covering piles on the ground.

Mexican rose, mountain rose, Antigonon leptopus.

Root tuberous; a rampant grower, with pink bloom; outdoors South, and a conservatory plant North.

Kenilworth ivy, Linaria Cymbalaria.

A very graceful little perennial vine, re-sowing itself even where not hardy; favorite for baskets.

b. Herbaceous twiners

Hop, Humulus Lupulus.*

Produces the hops of commerce, but should be in common use as an ornamental plant.

Chinese yam, cinnamon vine, Dioscorea divaricata (D. Batatas).

Climbs high, but does not produce as much foliage as some other vines.

Wild yam, D. villosa.*

Smaller than the preceding; otherwise fully as good.

Ground-nut, Apios tuberosa.*

A bean-like vine, producing many chocolate-brown flowers in August and September.

Scarlet runner and White Dutch runner beans, Phaseolus multiflorus.

Perennial in warm countries; annual in the North.

Moonflowers, Ipomcea, various species.

Some are perennials far South, but annual North.

Hardy moonflower, Ipomœa pandurata.*

A weed where it grows wild, but an excellent vine for some purposes.

Wild morning-glory, Rutland beauty, Convolvulus Sepium* and California rose, C. Japonicus.

The former, white and pink, is common in swales. The latter, in double or semi-double form, is often run wild.

Madeira vine, mignonette vine, Boussingaultia baselloides.

Root a large, tough, irregular tuber.

Mikania, climbing hempweed, Mikania scandens.*

A good compositous twiner, inhabiting moist lands.

Woody perennial climbers.

(Climbing shrubs, the tops not dying down in fall except in climates in which they are not hardy.)

a. Tendril-climbers, root-climbers, scramblers, and trailers

Virginia creeper, Ampelopsis quinquefolia,*

The best vine for covering buildings in the colder climates. Plants should be selected from vines of known habit, as some individuals cling much better than others. Var. hirsuta,* strongly clinging, is recommended by the experimental station at Ottawa, Canada. Var. Engelmanni* has small and neat foliage.

Japanese ivy, Boston ivy, A. tricuspidata (A. Veitchii).

Handsomer than the Virginia creeper, and clings closer, but is often injured by winter in exposed places, especially when young; in northern regions, tops should be protected for first year or two.

Variegated ivy, Ampelopsis heterophylla var. elegans (Cissus variegata).

Handsome delicate hardy grape-like vines with mostly three-lobed blotched leaves and bluish berries.

Garden clematis, Clematis of various species and varieties.

Plants of robust and attractive habit, and gorgeous blooms; many garden forms. C. Jackmani, and its varieties, is one of the best. C. Henryi (Fig. 266) is excellent for white flowers. Clematises bloom in July and August.

Wild clematis, C. Virginiana*

Very attractive for arbors and for covering rude objects. The pistillate plants bear curious woolly balls of fruit.

Wild clematis, C. verticillaris.*

Less vigorous grower than the last, but excellent.

Japanese clematis, C. paniculata.

The best late-blooming woody vine, producing enormous masses of white flowers in late summer and early fall.

Trumpet creeper, Tecoma radicans.*

One of the best of all free-flowering shrubs; climbs by means of roots; flowers very large, orange-scarlet.

Chinese trumpet creeper, T. grandiflora (Bignonia grandiflora). Flowers orange-red; sometimes scarcely climbing.

Bignonia, Bignonia capreolata.*

A good strong evergreen vine, but often a nuisance in fields in the South.

Frost grape, Vitis cordifolia.*

One of the finest of all vines. It is a very tall grower, producing thick, heavy, dark leaves. Its foliage often reminds one of that of the moon-seed. Does not grow readily from cuttings.

Summer and river-bank grapes, V. bicolor* and V. vulpina (riparia).*

The common wild grapes of the Northern states.

Muscadine, scuppernong, Vitis rotundifolia.*

Much used for arbors in the Southern states (Plate XV).

Ivy, Hedera Helix.

The European ivy does not endure the bright sun of our winter; on the north side of a building it often does well; the best of vines for covering buildings, where it succeeds; hardy in favorable localities as far north as southern Ontario; many forms.

Greenbrier, Smilax rotundifolia* and S. hispida.*

Unique for the covering of small arbors and summer-houses.

Euonymus, E. radicans.

A very close-clinging root-climber, excellent for low walls; evergreen; the variegated variety is good.

Climbing fig, Ficus repens.

Used in greenhouses North, but is hardy far South.

Matrimony vine, boxthorn, Lycium Chinense.

Flowering all summer; flowers rose-pink and buff, axillary, star-like, succeeded by scarlet berries in the fall; stems prostrate, or scrambling; an old-fashioned vine on porches.

Bitter-sweet, Solanum Dulcamara.

A common scrambling or semi-twining vine along roadsides, with brilliant red poisonous berries; top dies down or nearly so.

Periwinkles, Vinca minor and V. major.

The former is the familiar trailing evergreen myrtle, with blue flowers in early spring; in its variegated form the latter is much used for hanging baskets and vases.

Climbing hydrangea, Schizophragma hydrangeoides.

Clings to walls by rootlets, producing white flowers in midsummer.

Passion-flower, species of Passiflora and Tacsonia.

Used in the South and in California.

b. Woody twiners

Actinidia, A. arguta.

Very strong grower, with beautiful thick foliage that is not attacked by insects or fungi; one of the best vines for arbors.

Akebia, A. quinata. Very handsome and odd Japanese vine; a strong grower, and worthy general planting.

Honeysuckles, woodbine, Lonicera of many kinds.

Japanese honeysuckle, L. Halliana (a form of L. Japonica).

10-20 ft.; flowers, white and buff, fragrant mainly in spring and fall; leaves small, evergreen; stems prostrate and rooting, or twining and climbing. Trellises, or for covering rocks and bare places; extensively run wild in the South. Var. aurea reticidata is similar to the type, but with handsome golden appearance.

Belgian Honeysuckle, L. Periclymenum var. Belgica.

6-10 ft.; monthly; flowers in clusters, rosy red, buff within; makes a large, rounded bush.

Coral or trumpet honeysuckle, L. sempervirens.*

6-15 ft.; June; scattering scarlet flowers through the summer; with no support makes a large rounded bush; for trellises, fences, or a hedge; it is one of the list of hardy trees and shrubs recommended for Canada by the Experiment Station at Ottawa.

Honeysuckle, L. Caprifolium, with cup-like connate leaves.

Good native climbing honeysuckles are L. flava,* Sullivanti,* hirsuta,* dioica,* and Douglasi.*

Wistaria, Wistaria Sinensis and W. speciosa.*

The Chinese species, Sinensis, is a superb plant; flowers blue-purple; there is a white-flowered variety.

Japanese wistaria, W. multijuga.

Flowers smaller and later than the Chinese, in looser racemes.

Dutchman's pipe, Aristolochia macrophytta (A. Sipho).* A robust grower, possessing enormous leaves. Useful for covering verandas and arbors.

Wax-work or false bitter-sweet, Celastrus scandens.* Very ornamental in fruit; flowers imperfect.

Japanese celastrus, C. orbiculatus (C. articulatus of the trade). C. articulatus and C. scandens are in the list of 100 trees and shrubs recommended by the Experiment Station at Ottawa for Canada.

Moonseed, Menispermum Canadense.* A small but very attractive twiner, useful for thickets and small arbors.

Bokhara climbing polygonum, Polygonum Baldschuanicum. Hardy North, although the young growth may be killed; flowers numerous, minute, whitish; interesting, but does not make a heavy cover.

Kudzu vine, Pueraria Thunbergiana (Dolichos Japonicus). Makes very long growths from a tuberous root; shrubby South, but dies to the ground in the North.

Silk vine, Periploca Græca. Purplish flowers in axillary clusters; long, narrow, shining leaves; rapid growing.

Potato vine, Solanum jasminoides. A good evergreen vine South, particularly the var. grandiflorum.

Yellow jasmine, Gelsemium sempervirens.* A good native evergreen vine for the South, with fragrant yellow flowers.

Malayan jasmine, Trachelospermum (or Rhynchospermum) jasminoides. A good evergreen vine for the South and in California.

Climbing asparagus, Asparagus plumosus. Popular as an outdoor vine far South and in California.

Jasmines, Jasminum of several species. The best known in gardens are J. nudiflorum, yellow in earliest spring, J. officinale, the jessamine of poetry, with white flowers, and J. Sambac, the Arabian jasmine (and related species) with white flowers and unbranched leaves; these are not hardy without much protection north of Washington or Philadelphia, and J. Sambac only far South.

Bougainvillea, Bougainvillaea glabra and B. spectabilis.

The magenta-flowered variety, sometimes seen in conservatories in the North, is a popular outdoor vine in the South and is profusely used in southern California. The red-flowered form is less seen, but is preferable in color.

Wire-vine (polygonum of florists), Muehlenbeckia complexa.

Abundantly used on buildings and chimneys in southern California.

Climbing roses.

The roses do not climb nor possess any special climbing organs; therefore they must be provided with a trellis or woven-wire fence. Some of the roses classed as climbing are such as only need good support, Fig. 267. For culture of roses, see Chapter VIII.

The most popular climbing or pillar rose at present is Crimson Rambler, but while it makes a great display of flowers, it is not the best climbing rose. Probably the best of the real climbing roses for this country, bloom, foliage, and habit all considered, are the derivatives of the native prairie rose, Rosa setigera (native as far north as Ontario and Wisconsin). Baltimore Belle and Queen of the Prairie belong to this class.

The climbing polyantha roses (hybrids of Rosa multiflora and other species) include the class of "rambler" roses that has now come to be large, including not only the Crimson Rambler, but forms of other colors, single and semi-double, and various climbing habits; a very valuable and hardy class of roses, particularly for trellises.

The Memorial rose (R. Wichuraiana) is a trailing, half-evergreen, white-flowered species, very useful for covering banks and rocks. Derivatives of this species of many kinds are now available, and are valuable.

The Ayrshire roses (R. arvensis var. capreolata) are profuse but rather slender growers, hardy North, bearing double white or pink flowers.

The Cherokee rose (R. Icevigata or R. Sinica) is extensively naturalized in the South, and much prized for its large white bloom and shining foliage; not hardy in the North.

The Banksia rose (R. Banksice) is a strong climbing rose for the South and California with yellow or white flowers in clusters. A larger-flowered form (R. Fortuneana) is a hybrid of this and the Cherokee rose.

The climbing tea and noisette roses, forms of R. Chinensis and R. Noisettiana, are useful in the open in the South.

7. TREES FOR LAWNS AND STREETS

A single tree may give character to an entire home property; and a place of any size that does not have at least one good tree usually lacks any dominating landscape note.

Likewise, a street that is devoid of good trees cannot be the best residential section; and a park that lacks well-grown trees is either immature or barren.

Although the list of good and hardy lawn and street trees is rather extensive, the number of kinds generally planted and recognized is small. Since most home places can have but few trees, and since they require so many years to mature, it is natural that the home-maker should hesitate about experimenting, or trying kinds that he does not himself know. So the home-maker in the North plants maples, elms, and a white birch, and in the South a magnolia and China-berry. Yet there are numbers of trees as useful as these, the planting of which might give our premises and streets a much richer expression.

It is much to be desired that some of the trees with "strong" and rugged characters be introduced into the larger grounds; such, for example, as the hickories and oaks. These may often transplant with difficulty, but the effort to secure them is worth the expenditure. Good trees of oaks, and others supposed to be difficult to transplant, may now be had of the leading nurserymen. The pin oak (Quercus palustris) is one of the best street trees and is now largely planted.

It is at least possible to introduce a variety of trees into a city or village, by devoting one street or a series of blocks to a single kind of tree,--one street being known by its lindens, one by its plane-trees, one by its oaks, one by its hickories, one by its native birches, beech, coffee-tree, sassafras, gum or liquidambar, tulip tree, and the like. There is every reason why a city, particularly a small city or a village, should become to some extent an artistic expression of its natural region.

The home-maker is fortunate if his area already possesses well-grown large trees. It may even be desirable to place the residence with reference to such trees (Plate VI); and the planning of the grounds should accept them as fixed points to which to work. The operator will take every care to preserve and safeguard sufficient of the standing trees to give the place singularity and character.

The care of the tree should include not only the protecting of it from enemies and accidents, but also the maintaining of its characteristic features. For example, the natural rough bark should be maintained against the raids of tree-scrapers; and the grading should not be allowed to disguise the natural bulge of the tree at the base, for a tree that is covered a foot or two above the natural line is not only in danger of being killed, but it looks like a post.

The best shade trees are usually those that are native to the particular region, since they are hardy and adapted to the soil and other conditions. Elms, maples, basswoods, and the like are nearly always reliable. In regions in which there are serious insect enemies or fungous diseases, the trees that are most likely to be attacked may be omitted. For instance, in parts of the East the chestnut bark-disease is a very great menace; and it is a good plan in such places to plant other trees than chestnuts.

A good shade tree is one that has a heavy foliage and dense head, and that is not commonly attacked by repelling insects and diseases. Trees for shade should ordinarily be given sufficient room that they may develop into full size and symmetrical heads. Trees may be planted as close as 10 or 15 feet apart for temporary effect; but as soon as they begin to crowd they should be thinned, so that they develop their full characteristics as trees.

Trees may be planted in fall or spring. Fall is desirable, except for the extreme North, if the land is well drained and prepared and if the trees may be got in early; but under usual conditions, spring planting is safer, if the stock has been wintered well (see discussion under Shrubs, p. 290). Planting and pruning are discussed on pp. 124 and 139.

If one desires trees with conspicuous bloom, they should be found among the magnolias, tulip trees, kœlreuteria, catalpas, chestnuts, horse-chestnut and buckeyes, cladrastis, black or yellow locust, wild black cherry, and less conspicuously in the lindens; and also in such half-trees or big shrubs as cercis, cytisus, flowering dogwood, double-flowered and other forms of apples, crab-apples, cherries, plums, peaches, hawthorn or cratægus, amelanchier, mountain ash.

Among drooping or weeping trees the best may be found in the willows (Salix Babylonica and others), maples (Wier's), birch, mulberry, beech, ash, elm, cherry, poplar, mountain ash.

Purple-leaved varieties occur in the beech, maple, elm, oak, birch, and others.

Yellow-leaved and tricolors occur in the maple, oak, poplar, elm, beech, and other species.

Cut-leaved forms are found in birch, beech, maple, alder, oak, basswood, and others.

List of hardy deciduous trees for the North.

(The genera are arranged alphabetically. Natives are marked by *; good species for shade trees by †; those recommended by the Experiment Station at Ottawa, Ontario, by DD)

In a number of the genera, the plants may be shrubby rather than arboreus in some regions (see the Shrub list), as in acer (A. Ginnala, A. spicatum), æsculus, betula (B. pumila), carpinus, castanea (C. pumila), catalpa (C. ovata), cercis, magnolia (M. glauca particularly), ostrya, prunus, pyrus, salix, sorbus.

Norway maple, Acer platanoides.(D, DD) One of the finest medium-sized trees for single lawn specimens; there are several horticultural varieties. Var. Schwedleri‡ is one of the best of purple-leaved trees. The Norway maple droops too much and is too low-headed for roadside planting.

Black sugar maple, A. nigrum.(A, DD) Darker and softer in aspect than the ordinary sugar maple.

Sugar maple, A. saccharum.(A, DD) This and the last are among the very best roadside trees.

Silver maple, A. saccharinum (A. dasycarpum).(A, DD) Desirable for water-courses and for grouping; succeeds on both wet and dry lands.

Wier's cut-leaved silver maple, A. saccharinum var. Wieri.(D, DD)

Light and graceful; especially desirable for pleasure grounds.

Red, soft, or swamp maple, A. rubrum.* Valuable for its spring and autumn colors, and for variety in grouping.

Sycamore maple, A. Pseudo-platanus. A slow grower, to be used mostly as single specimens. Several horticultural varieties.

English maple, A. campestre. A good medium-sized tree of slow growth, not hardy on our northern borders; see under Shrubs (p. 291).

Japan maple, A. palmatum (A. polymorphum). In many forms, useful for small lawn specimens; does not grow above 10-20 ft.

Siberian maple, A. Ginnala.‡ Attractive as a lawn specimen when grown as a bush; the autumn color is very bright; small tree or big shrub.

Mountain maple, A. spicatum.* Very bright in autumn.

Box-elder, Acer Negundo (Negundo aceroides or fraxinifolium).*† Very hardy and rapid growing; much used in the West as a windbreak, but not strong in ornamental features.

Horse chestnut, Æsculus Hippocastanum.†‡ Useful for single specimens and roadsides; many forms.

Buckeye, Æ. octandra (Æ. flava)*‡

Ohio buckeye, Æ. glabra*

Red buckeye, Æ. cornea (Æ. rubicunda).

Ailanthus, Ailanthus glandulosa. A rapid grower, with large pinnate leaves; the staminate plant possesses a disagreeable odor when it flowers; suckers badly; most useful as a shrub; see the same under Shrubs (also Fig. 50).

Alder, Alnus glutinosa. The var. imperialis‡ is one of the best cut-leaved small trees.

European birch, Betula alba.

Cut-leaved weeping birch, B. alba var. laciniata pendula.‡

American white birch, B. populifolia.*

Paper, or canoe birch, B. papyrifera.*

Cherry birch, B. lenta. *

Well-grown specimens resemble the sweet cherry; both this and the yellow birch (B. lutea*) make attractive light-leaved trees; they are not appreciated.

Hornbeam or blue beech, Carpinus Americana.* Chestnut, Castanea saliva† and C. Americana.*†

Showy catalpa, Catalpa speciosa.†‡ Very dark, soft-foliaged tree of small to medium size; showy in flower; for northern regions should be raised from northern-grown seed.

Smaller catalpa, C. bignonioides.† Less showy than the last, blooming a week or two later; less hardy.

Japanese catalpa, C. ovata (C. Kœmpferi).‡ In northern sections often remains practically a bush.

Nettle-tree, Celtis occidentalis.*

Katsura-tree, Cercidiphyllum Japonicum.‡ A small or medium-sized tree of very attractive foliage and habit.

Red-bud, or Judas-tree, Cercis Canadensis.* Produces a profusion of rose-purple pea-like flowers before the leaves appear; foliage also attractive.

Yellow-wood, or virgilia, Cladrastis tinctoria.* One of the finest hardy flowering trees.

Beech, Fagus ferruginea.*† Specimens which are symmetrically developed are among our best lawn trees; picturesque in winter.

European beech, F. sylvatica.† Many cultural forms, the purple-leaved being everywhere known. There are excellent tricolored varieties and weeping forms.

Black ash, Fraxinus nigra (F. sambucifolia).*† One of the best of the light-leaved trees; does well on dry soils, although native to swamps; not appreciated.

White ash, F. Americana.*†

European ash, F. excelsior.† There is a good weeping form of this.

Maiden-hair tree, Ginkgo biloba (Salisburia adiantifolia).‡ Very odd and striking; to be used for single specimens or avenues.

Honey locust, Gleditschia triacanthos.*† Tree of striking habit, with big branching thorns and very large pods; there is also a thornless form.

Kentucky coffee-tree, Gymnocladus Canadensis.* Light and graceful; unique in winter.

Bitternut, Hicoria minima (or Carya amara).* Much like black ash in aspect; not appreciated.

Hickory, Hicoria ovata (or Carya) *†‡ and others.

Pecan, H. Pecan.*† Hardy in places as far north as New Jersey, and reported still farther.

Butternut, Juglans cinerea.*

Walnut, J. nigra.*

Varnish-tree, Kœlreuteria paniculata. A medium-sized tree of good character, producing a profusion of golden-yellow flowers in July; should be better known.

European larch, Larix decidua (L. Europœa).‡

American larch or tamarack, L. Americana.*

Gum-tree, sweet gum, Liquidambar styraciflua.*† A good tree, reaching as far north as Connecticut, and hardy in parts of western New York although not growing large; foliage maple-like; a characteristic tree of the South.

Tulip tree or whitewood, Liriodendron Tulipifera.*† Unique in foliage and flower and deserving to be more planted.

Cucumber tree, Magnolia acuminata.*† Native in the Northern states; excellent.

White bay-tree, M. glauca.*† Very attractive small tree, native along the coast to Massachusetts; where not hardy, the young growth each year is good.

Of the foreign magnolias hardy in the North, two species and one group of hybrids are prominent: M. stellata (or M. Halleana) and M. Yulan or (M. conspicua), both white-flowered, the former very early and having 9-18 petals and the latter (which is a larger tree) having 6-9 petals; M. Soulangeana, a hybrid group including the forms known as Lennei, nigra, Norbertiana, speciosa, grandis. All these magnolias are deciduous and bloom before the leaves appear.

Mulberry, Morus rubra.*

White mulberry, M. alba.

Russian mulberry, M. alba var. Tatarica. Teas' weeping mulberry is a form of the Russian.

Pepperidge or gum-tree, Nyssa sylvatica* One of the oddest and most picturesque of our native trees; especially attractive in winter; foliage brilliant red in autumn; most suitable for low lands.

Iron-wood, hop hornbeam, Ostrya Virginica.* A good small tree, with hop-like fruits.

Sourwood, sorrel-tree, Oxydendrum arboreum.* Interesting small tree native from Pennsylvania in the high land south, and should be reliable where it grows wild.

Plane or buttonwood, Platanus occidentalis*†‡ Young or middle-aged trees are soft and pleasant in aspect, but they soon become thin and ragged below; unique in winter.

European plane-tree, P. orientalis.† Much used for street planting, but less picturesque than the American; several forms.

Aspen, Populus tremuloides,* Very valuable when well grown; too much neglected (Fig. 33). Most of the poplars are suitable for pleasure grounds, and as nurses for slower growing and more emphatic trees.

Large-toothed aspen, P. grandidentata.* Unique in summer color; heavier in aspect than the above; old trees become ragged.

Weeping poplar, P. grandidentata, var. pendula. An odd, small tree, suitable for small places, but, like all weeping trees, likely to be planted too freely.

Cottonwood, P. deltoides (P. monilifera).* The staminate specimens, only, should be planted if possible, as the cotton of the seed-pods is disagreeable when carried by winds; var. aurea‡ is one of the good golden-leaved trees.

Balm of Gilead, P. balsamifera* and var. candicans.* Desirable for remote groups or belts. Foliage not pleasant in color.

Lombardy poplar, P. nigra, var. Italica.

Desirable for certain purposes, but used too indiscriminately, it is likely to be short-lived in northern climates.

White poplar, abele, P. alba.

Sprouts badly; several forms.

Bolle's poplar, P. alba, var. Bolleana.

Habit much like the Lombardy; leaves curiously lobed, very white beneath, making a pleasant contrast.

Certinensis poplar, P. laurifolia (P. Certinensis).

A very hardy Siberian species, much like P. deltoides, useful for severe climates.

Wild black cherry, Prunus serotina.*

European bird cherry, Prunus Padus.

A small tree much like the choke cherry, but a freer grower, with larger flowers, and racemes which appear about a week later.

Choke cherry, P. Virginiana.*

Very showy while in flower.

Purple plum, Prunus cerasifera, var. atropurpurea (var. Pissardi).

One of our most reliable purple-leaved trees.

Rose-bud cherry, P. pendula (P. subhirtella).

A tree of drooping habit and beautiful rose-pink flowers preceding the leaves.

Japanese flowering cherry, P. Pseudo-Cerasus.

In many forms, the famous flowering cherries of Japan, but not reliable North.

There are ornamental-flowered peaches and cherries, more curious and interesting than useful.

Wild crab, Pyrus coronaria* and P. Iœnsis.*

Very showy while in flower, blooming after apple blossoms have fallen; old specimens become picturesque in form. P. Iœnsis flore pleno‡ (Bechtel's Crab) is a handsome double form.

Siberian crab, P. baccata.‡ Excellent small tree, both in flower and fruit.

Flowering crab, Pyrus floribunda. Pretty both in flower and fruit; a large shrub or small tree; various forms.

Hall's crab, P. Halliana (P. Parkmani). One of the best of the flowering crabs, particularly the double form. Various forms of double-flowering apple are on the market.

Swamp white oak, Quercus bicolor.*† A desirable tree, usually neglected; very picturesque in winter.

Bur oak, Q. macrocarpa.*†

Chestnut oak, Q. Prinus,*† and especially the closely related Q. Muhlenbergii (or Q. acuminata).*†

White oak, Q. alba*†

Shingle oak, Q. imbricaria.*†

Scarlet oak, Q. coccinea.*† This and the next two are glossy-leaved, and are desirable for bright planting.

Black oak, Q. velutina (Q. tinctoria).*†

Red oak, Q. rubra.*†‡

Pin oak, Q. palustris.*† Excellent for avenues; transplants well.

Willow oak, Q. Phellos*

English oak, Q. Robur. Many forms represented by two types, probably good species, Q. pedunculata (with stalked acorns) and Q. sessiliflora (with stalkless acorns). Some of the forms are reliable in the Northern states.

The oaks are slow growers and usually transplant with difficulty. Natural specimens are most valuable. A large well-grown oak is one of the grandest of trees.

Locust, Robinia Pseudacacia.*† Attractive in flower; handsome as single specimens when young; many forms; used also for hedges.

Peach-leaved willow, Salix amygdaloides.* Very handsome small tree, deserving more attention. This and the next valuable in low places or along water-courses.

Black willow, S. nigra.*

Weeping willow, S. Babylonica.

To be planted sparingly, preferably near water; the sort known as the Wisconsin weeping willow appears to be much hardier than the common type; many forms.

White willow, S. alba, and various varieties, one of which is the Golden willow.

Tree willows are most valuable, as a rule, when used for temporary plantations or as nurses for better trees.

Laurel-leaved willow, S. laurifolia‡

A small tree used in cold regions for shelter-belts; also a good ornamental tree. See also under Shrubs.

Sassafras, Sassafras officinalis.*†

Suitable in the borders of groups or for single specimens; peculiar in winter; too much neglected.

Rowan or European mountain ash, Sorbus Aucuparia (Pyrus Aucuparia).‡

Service-tree, S. domestica.

Fruit handsomer than that of the mountain ash and more persistent; small tree.

Oak-leaved mountain ash, S. hybrida (S. quercifolia).

Small tree, deserving to be better known.

Bald cypress, Taxodium distichum.*

Not entirely hardy at Lansing, Mich.; often becomes scraggly after fifteen or twenty years, but a good tree; many cultural forms.

American linden or basswood, Tilia Americana.*†

Very valuable for single trees on large lawns, or for roadsides.

European linden, T. vulgaris and T. platyphyllos (T. Europaea of nurserymen is probably usually the latter).†

Has the general character of the American basswood.

European silver linden, T. tomentosa and varieties.†

Very handsome; leaves silvery white beneath; among others is a weeping variety.

American elm, Ulmus Americana.*†

One of the most graceful and variable of trees; useful for many purposes and a standard street tree.

Cork elm, U. racemosa.* Softer in aspect than the last, and more picturesque in winter, having prominent ridges of bark on its branches; slow grower.

Red or slippery elm, U. fulva.* Occasionally useful in a group or shelter-belt; a stiff grower.

English elm, U. campestris, and Scotch or wych elm, U. scabra (U. mantana). Often planted, but are inferior to U. Americana for street planting, although useful in collections. These have many horticultural forms.

Non-coniferous trees for the South.

Among deciduous trees for the region of Washington and south may be mentioned: Acer, the American and European species as for the North; Catalpa bignonioides and especially C. speciosa; celtis; cercis, both American and Japanese; flowering dogwood, profusely native; white ash; ginkgo; kœlreuteria; sweet gum (liquidambar); American linden; tulip tree; magnolias much as for the North; China-berry (Melia Azedarach); Texas umbrella-tree (var. umbraculiformis of the preceding); mulberries; oxydendrum; paulownia; oriental plane-tree; native oaks of the regions; Robinia Pseudacacia; weeping willow; Sophora Japonica; Sterculia platanifolia; American elm.

Broad-leaved evergreens of real tree size useful for the South may be found among the cherry laurels, magnolias, and oaks. Among the cherry laurels are: Portugal laurel (Prunus Lusitanica), English cherry laurel in several forms (P. Laurocerasus), and the "mock-orange" or "wild orange" (P. Caroliniana). In magnolia, the splendid M. grandiflora is everywhere used. In oaks, the live-oak (Quercus Virginiana, known also as Q. virens and Q. sempervirens) is the universal species. The cork oak (Q. Suber) is also recommended.

8. CONIFEROUS EVERGREEN SHRUBS AND TREES

In this country the word "evergreen" is understood to mean coniferous trees with persistent leaves, as pines, spruces, firs, cedars, junipers, arborvitæ, retinosporas, and the like. These trees have always been favorites with plant lovers, as they have very distinctive forms and other characteristics. Many of them are of the easiest culture.

It is a common notion that, since spruces and other conifers grow so symmetrically, they will not stand pruning; but this is an error. They may be pruned with as good effect as other trees, and if they tend to grow too tall, the leader may be stopped without fear. A new leader will arise, but in the meantime the upward growth of the tree will be somewhat checked, and the effect will be to make the tree dense. The tips of the branches may also be headed in with the same effect. The beauty of an evergreen lies in its natural form; therefore, it should not be sheared into unusual shapes, but a gentle trimming back, as I suggested, will tend to prevent the Norway spruce and others from growing open and ragged. After the tree attains some age, 4 or 5 in. may be taken off the ends of the main branches every year or two (in spring before growth begins) with good results. This slight trimming is ordinarily done with Waters's long-handled pruning shears.

There is much difference of opinion as to the proper time for the transplanting of evergreens, which means that there is more than one season in which they may be moved. It is ordinarily unsafe to transplant them in the fall in northern climates or bleak situations, since the evaporation from the foliage during the winter is likely to injure the plant. The best results are usually secured in spring or summer planting. In spring they may be moved rather late, just as new growth is beginning. Some persons also plant them in August or early September, as the roots secure a hold on the soil before winter. In the Southern states transplanting may be done at most times of the year, but late fall and early spring are usually advised.

In transplanting conifers, it is very important that the roots be not exposed to the sun. They should be moistened and covered with burlaps or other material. The holes should be ready to receive them. If the trees are large, or if it has been necessary to trim in the roots, the top should be cut when the tree is set.

Large evergreens (those 10 ft. and more high) are usually best transplanted late in winter, at a time when a large ball of earth may be moved with them. A trench is dug around the tree, it being deepened a little day by day so that the frost can work into the earth and hold it in shape. When the ball is thoroughly frozen, it is hoisted on to a stone-boat or truck (Fig. 148) and moved to its new position.

Perhaps the handsomest of all the native conifers of the northeastern United States is the ordinary hemlock, or hemlock spruce (the one so much used for lumber); but it is usually difficult to move. Transplanted trees from nurseries are usually safest. If the trees are taken from the wild, they should be selected from open and sunny places.

For neat and compact effects near porches and along walks, the dwarf retinosporas are very useful.

Most of the pines and spruces are too coarse for planting very close to the residence. They are better at some distance removed, where they serve as a background to other planting. If they are wanted for individual specimens, they should be given plenty of room, so that the limbs will not be crowded and the tree become misshapen. Whatever else is done to the spruces and firs, the lower limbs should not be trimmed up, at least not until the tree has become so old that the lowest branches die. Some species hold their branches much longer than others. The oriental spruce (Picea orientalis) is one of the best in this respect. The occasional slight heading-in, that has been mentioned, will tend to preserve the lower limbs, and it will not be marked enough to alter the form of the tree.

The number of excellent coniferous evergreens now offered in the American trade is large. They are slow of growth and require much room if good specimens are to be obtained; but if the space can be had and the proper exposure secured, no trees add greater dignity and distinction to an estate. Reliable comments on the rarer conifers may be found in the catalogues of the best nurserymen.

List of shrubby conifers.

The following list contains the most usual of the shrub-like coniferous evergreens, with * to mark those native to this country. The ‡ in this and the succeeding list marks those species that are found to be hardy at Ottawa, Ontario, and are recommended by the Central Experimental Farm of Canada.

Dwarf arborvitæ, Thuja occidentalis.*

There are many dwarf and compact varieties of arborvitæ, most of which are excellent for small places. The most desirable for general purposes, and also the largest, is the so-called Siberian. Other very desirable forms are those sold as globosa, ericoides, compacta,‡ Hovey,‡ Ellwangeriana,‡ pyramidalis,‡ Wareana (or Sibirica),‡ and aurea Douglasii.‡

Japanese arborvitæ or retinospora, Chamœcyparis of various species.

Retinosporas‡ under names as follows: Cupressus ericoides, 2 ft., with fine soft delicate green foliage that assumes a purplish tinge in winter; C. pisifera, one of the best, with a pendulous habit and bright green foliage; C. pisifera var. filifera, with drooping branches and thread-like pendulous branches; C. pisifera var. plumosa, more compact than P. pisifera and feathery; var. aurea of the last, "one of the most beautiful golden-leaved evergreen shrubs in cultivation."

Juniper, Juniperus communis* and garden varieties.

The juniper is a partially trailing plant, of loose habit, suitable for banks and rocky places. There are upright and very formal varieties of it, the best being those sold as var. Hibernica (fastigiata),‡ "Irish juniper," and var. Suecica, "Swedish juniper." Northern juniper, J. Sabina, var. prostrata* One of the best of the low, diffuse conifers; var. tamariscifolia,‡ 1-2 ft.

Chinese and Japanese junipers in many forms, J. Chinensis.

Dwarf Norway spruce, Picea excelsa, dwarf forms. Several very dwarf sorts of the Norway spruce are in cultivation, some of which are to be recommended.

Dwarf pine, Pinus montana, var. pumilio.

Mugho pine, Pinus montana, var. Mughus.‡ There are other desirable dwarf pines.

Wild yew, Taxus Canadensis.* Common in woods; a wide-spreading plant known as "ground hemlock"; 3-4 ft.

Arboreous conifers.

The evergreen conifers that one is likely to plant may be roughly classed as pines; spruces and firs; cedars and junipers; arborvitæ; yews.

White Pine, Pinus Strobus.*‡ The best native species for general planting; retains its bright green color in winter.

Austrian pine, P. Austriaca.‡ Hardy, coarse, and rugged; suitable only for large areas; foliage very dark.

Scotch pine, P. sylvestris.‡ Not so coarse as Austrian pine, with a lighter and bluer foliage.

Red pine, P. resinosa*‡ Valuable in groups and belts; usually called "Norway pine"; rather heavy in expression.

Bull pine, P. ponderosa.*‡ A strong majestic tree, deserving to be better known in large grounds; native westward.

Cembrian pine, Pinus Cembra. A very fine slow-growing tree; one of the few standard pines suitable for small places.

Scrub pine, P. divaricata (P. Banksiana).*

A small tree, more odd and picturesque than beautiful, but desirable in certain places.

Mugho pine, P. montana var. Mughus.‡

Usually more a bush than a tree (2 to 12 ft.), although it may attain a height of 20-30 ft.; mentioned under Shrubs.

Norway spruce, Picea excelsa.‡

The most commonly planted spruce; loses much of its peculiar beauty when thirty to fifty years of age; several dwarf and weeping forms.

White spruce, P. alba.*‡

One of the finest of the spruces; a more compact grower than the last, and not so coarse; grows slowly.

Oriental spruce, P. orientalis.

Especially valuable from its habit of holding its lowest limbs; grows slowly; needs some shelter.

Colorado blue spruce, P. pungens.*‡

In color the finest of the conifers; grows slowly; seedlings vary much in blueness.

Alcock's spruce, P. Alcockiana.‡

Excellent; foliage has silvery under surfaces.

Hemlock spruce, Tsuga Canadensis.*

The common lumber hemlock, but excellent for hedges and as a lawn tree; young trees may need partial protection from sun.

White fir, Abies concolor.*‡

Probably the best of the native firs for the northeastern region; leaves broad, glaucous.

Nordmann's fir, A. Nordmanniana.

Excellent in every way; leaves shining above and lighter beneath.

Balsam fir, A. balsamea.*

Loses most of its beauty in fifteen or twenty years.

Douglas fir, Pseudotsuga Douglasii.*‡

Majestic tree of the northern Pacific slope, hardy in the east when grown from seeds from far north or high mountains.

Red cedar, Juniperus Virginiana*

A common tree, North and South; several horticultural varieties.

Arborvitae (white cedar, erroneously), Thuja occidentalis.*

Becomes unattractive after ten or fifteen years on poor soils; the horticultural varieties are excellent; see p. 333, and Hedges, p. 220.

Japanese yew, Taxus cuspidata.

Hardy small tree.

Conifers for the South.

Evergreen conifers, trees and bushes, for regions south of Washington: Abies Fraseri and A. Picea (A. pectinata); Norway spruce; true cedars, Cedrus Atlantica and Deodara; cypress, Cupressus Goveniana, majestica, sempervirens; Chamœcyparis Lawsoniana; practically all junipers, including the native cedar (Juniperus Virginiana); practically all arborvitæ, including the oriental or biota group; retinosporas (forms of chamæcyparis and thuja of several kinds); Carolina hemlock, Tsuga Caroliniana; English yew, Taxus baccata; Libocedrus decurrens; cephalotaxus and podocarpus; cryptomeria; Bhotan pine, Pinus excelsa; and the native pines of the regions.

9. WINDOW-GARDENS

Although the making of window-gardens may not be properly a part of the planting and ornamenting of the home grounds, yet the appearance of the residence has a marked effect on the attractiveness or unattractiveness of the premises; and there is no better place than this in which to discuss the subject. Furthermore, window-gardening is closely associated with various forms of temporary plant protection about the residence (Fig. 268).

Window-gardens are of two types: the window-box and porch-box type, in which the plants are grown outside the window and which is a summer or warm-weather effort; the interior or true window-garden, made for the enjoyment of the family in its internal relations, and which is chiefly a winter or cold-weather effort.

The window-box for outside effect.

Handsomely finished boxes, ornamental tiling, and bracket work of wood and iron suitable for fitting out windows for the growing of plants, are on the market; but such, while desirable, are by no means necessary. A stout pine box of a length corresponding to the width of the window, about 10 inches wide and 6 deep, answers quite as well as a finer box, since it will likely be some distance above the street, and its sides, moreover, are soon covered by the vines. A zinc tray of a size to fit into the wooden box may be ordered of the tinsmith. It will tend to keep the soil from drying out so rapidly, but it is not a necessity. A few small holes in the bottom will provide for drainage; but with carefulness in watering these are not necessary, since the box by its exposed position will dry out readily during summer weather, unless the position is a shaded one. In the latter case provision for good drainage is always advisable.

Since there is more or less cramping of roots, it will be necessary to make the soil richer than would be required were the plants to grow in the garden. The most desirable soil is one that does not pack hard like clay, nor contract much when dry, but remains porous and springy. Such a soil is found in the potting earth used by florists, and it may be obtained from them at 50 cents to $1 a barrel. Often the nature of the soil will be such as to make it desirable to have at hand a barrel of sharp sand for mixing with it, to make it more porous and prevent baking. A good filling for a deep box is a layer of clinkers or other drainage in the bottom, a layer of pasture sod, a layer of old cow manure, and fill with fertile garden earth.

Some window-gardeners pot the plants and then set them in the window-box, filling the spaces between the pots with moist moss. Others plant them directly in the earth. The former method, as a general rule, is to be preferred in the winter window-garden; the latter in the summer.

The plants most valuable for outside boxes are those of drooping habit, such as lobelias, tropeolums, othonna, Kenilworth ivy, verbena (Fig. 269), sweet alyssum, and petunia. Such plants may occupy the front row, while back of them may be the erect-growing plants, as geraniums, heliotropes, begonias (Plate XX).

For shady situations the main dependence is on plants of graceful form or handsome foliage; while for the sunny window the selection may be of blooming plants. Of the plants mentioned below for these two positions, those marked with an asterisk * are of climbing habit, and may be trained up about the sides of the window.

Just what plants will be most suitable depends on the exposure. For the shady side of the street, the more delicate kinds of plants may be used. For full exposure to the sun, it will be necessary to choose the more vigorous-growing kinds. In the latter position, suitable plants for drooping would be: tropeolums,* passifloras,* the single petunias, sweet alyssum, lobelias, verbenas, mesembryanthemums. For erect-growing plants: geraniums, heliotropes, phlox. If the position is a shaded one, the drooping plants might be of the following: tradescantia, Kenilworth ivy, senecio* or parlor ivy, sedums, moneywort,* vinca, smilax,* lygodium* or climbing fern. Erect-growing plants would be dracenas, palms, ferns, coleus, centaurea, spotted calla, and others.

After the plants have filled the earth with roots, it will be desirable to give the surface among them a very light sprinkling of bone-dust or a thicker coating of rotted manure from time to time during the summer; or instead of this, a watering with weak liquid manure about once a week. This is not necessary, however, until the growth shows that the roots have about exhausted the soil.

In the fall the box may be placed on the inside of the window. In this case it will be desirable to thin out the foliage somewhat, shorten in some of the vines, and perhaps remove some of the plants. It will also be desirable to give a fresh coating of rich soil. Increased care will be necessary, also, in watering, since the plants will have less light than previously, and, moreover, there may be no provision for drainage.

Porch-boxes may be made in the same general plan. Since the plants are likely to be injured in porch-boxes, and since these boxes should have some architectural effect, it is well to use abundantly of rather heavy greenery, such as swordfern (the common form of Nephrolepis exaltata) or the Boston fern, Asparagus Sprengeri, wandering jew, the large drooping vinca (perhaps the variegated form), aspidistra. With these or similar things constituting the body of the box planting, the flowering plants may be added to heighten the effect.

The inside window-garden, or "house plants."

The winter window-garden may consist simply of a jardinière, or a few choice pot-plants on a stand at the window, or of a considerable collection with more or less elaborate arrangements for their accommodation in the way of box, brackets, shelves, and stands. Expensive arrangements are by no means necessary, nor is a large collection. The plants and flowers themselves are the main consideration, and a small collection well cared for is better than a large one unless it can be easily accommodated and kept in good condition.

The box will be seen near at hand, and so it may be more or less ornamental in character. The sides may be covered with ornamental tile held in place by molding; or a light latticework of wood surrounding the box is pretty. But a neatly made and strong box of about the dimensions mentioned on page 337, with a strip of molding at the top and bottom, answers just as well; and if painted green, or some neutral shade, only the plants will be seen or thought of. Brackets, jardinières, and stands may be purchased of any of the larger florists.

The box may consist of merely the wooden receptacle; but a preferable arrangement is to make it about eight inches deep instead of six, then have the tinsmith make a zinc tray to fit the box. This is provided with a false wooden bottom, with cracks for drainage, two inches above the real bottom of the tray. The plants will then have a vacant space below them into which drainage water may pass. Such a box may be thoroughly watered as the plants require without danger of the water running on the carpet. Of course, a faucet should be provided at some suitable point on a level with the bottom of the tray, to permit of its being drained every day or so if the water tends to accumulate. It would not do to allow the water to remain long; especially should it never rise to the false bottom, as then the soil would be kept too wet.

The window for plants should have a southern, southeastern, or eastern exposure. Plants need all the light they can get in the winter, especially those that are expected to bloom. The window should be tight-fitting. Shutters and a curtain will be an advantage in cold weather.

Plants like a certain uniformity in conditions. It is very trying on them, and often fatal to success, to have them snug and warm one night and pinched in a temperature only a few degrees above freezing the next. Some plants will live in spite of it, but they cannot be expected to prosper. Those whose rooms are heated with steam, hot water, or hot air will have to guard against keeping rooms too warm fully as much as keeping them too cool. Rooms in brick dwellings that have been warm all day, if shut up and made snug in the evening, will often keep warm over night without heat except in the coldest weather. Rooms in frame dwellings exposed on all sides soon cool down.

It is difficult to grow plants in rooms lighted by gas. Most living-rooms have air too dry for plants. In such cases the bow-window may be set off from the room by glass doors; one then has a miniature conservatory. A pan of water on the stove or on the register and damp moss among the pots, will help to afford plants the necessary humidity.

The foliage will need cleansing from time to time to free it from dust. A bath tub provided with a ready outlet for the water is an excellent place for this purpose. The plants may be turned on their sides and supported on a small box above the bottom of the tub. Then they may be freely syringed without danger of making the soil too wet. It is usually advisable not to wet the flowers, however, especially the white waxen kinds, like hyacinths. The foliage of rex begonias should be cleansed with a piece of dry or only slightly moist cotton. But if the leaves can be quickly dried off by placing them in the open air on mild days, or moderately near the stove, the foliage may be syringed.

Some persons attach the box to the window, or support it on brackets attached below the window-sill; but a preferable arrangement is to support the box on a low and light stand of suitable height provided with rollers. It may then be drawn back from the window, turned around from time to time to give the plants light on all sides, or turned with the attractive side in as may be desired.

Often the plants are set directly in the soil; but if they are kept in pots they may be rearranged, and changed about to give those which need it more light. Larger plants that are to stand on shelves or brackets may be in porous earthenware pots; but the smaller ones that are to fill the window-box may be placed in heavy paper pots. The sides of these are flexible, and the plants in them therefore may be crowded close together with great economy in space. When pots are spaced, damp sphagnum or other moss among them will hold them in place, keep the soil from drying out too rapidly, and at the same time give off moisture, so grateful to the foliage.

In addition to the stand, or box, a bracket for one or more pots on either side of the window, about one-third or half-way up, will be desirable. The bracket should turn on a basal hinge or pivot, to admit of swinging it forward or backward. These bracket plants usually suffer for moisture, and are rather difficult to manage.

Florists now usually grow plants suitable for window-gardens and winter flowering, and any intelligent florist, if asked, will take pleasure in making out a suitable collection. The plants should be ordered early in the fall; the florist will then not be so crowded for time and can give the matter better attention.

Most of the plants suitable for the winter window-garden belong to the groups that florists grow in their medium and cool houses. The former are given a night temperature of about 60°, the latter about 50°. In each case the temperature is 10 to 15° higher for the daytime. Five degrees of variation below these temperatures will be allowable without any injurious effects; even more may be borne, but not without more or less check to the plants. In bright, sunny weather the day temperature may be higher than in cloudy and dark weather.

Plants for an average night temperature of 60° (trade names).

Upright flowering plants,--Abutilons, browallias, calceolaria "Lincoln Park," begonias, bouvardias, euphorbias, scarlet sage, richardia or calla, heliotropes, fuchsias, Chinese hibiscus, jasmines, single petunias, swainsona, billbergia, freesias, geraniums, eupheas.

Upright foliage plants.--Muehlenbeckia, Cycas revoluta, Dracœna fragans and others, palms, cannas, Farfugium grande, achyranthes, ferns, araucarias, epiphyllums, pandanus or "screw pine," Pilea arborea, Ficus elastica, Grevillea robusta.

Climbing plants.--Asparagus tenuissimus, A. plumosus, Cobœa scandens, smilax, Japanese hop, Madeira vine (Boussingaultia), Senecio mikanioides and S. macroglossus (parlor ivies). See also list below.

Low-growing, trailing, or drooping plants.--These may be used for baskets and edgings. Flowering kinds are: Sweet alyssum, lobelia, Fuchsia procumbens, mesembryanthemum, Oxalis pendula, 0. floribunda and others, Russelia juncea, Mahernia odorata or honey-bell.

Foliage plants of drooping habit.--Vincas, Saxifraga sarmentosa, Kenilworth ivy, tradescantia or wandering jew, Festuca glauca* othonna, Isolepsis gracilis,* English ivy, Selaginella denticulata, and others. Some of these plants flower quite freely, but the flowers are small and of secondary consideration. Those with an asterisk * droop but slightly.

Plants for an average night temperature of 50°.

Upright flowering plants.--Azaleas, cyclamens, carnations, chrysanthemums, geraniums, Chinese primroses, stevias, marguerite or Paris daisy, single petunias, Anthemis coronaria, camellias, ardisia (berries), cinerarias, violets, hyacinths, narcissus, tulips, the Easter lily when in bloom, and others.

Upright foliage plants.--Pittosporums, palms, aucuba, euonymus (golden and silvery variegated), araucarias, pandanus, dusty millers.

Climbing plants.--English ivy, maurandia, senecio or parlor ivy, lygodium (climbing fern).

Drooping or trailing plants.--Flowering kinds are: Sweet alyssum, Mahernia odorata, Russelia and ivy geranium.

Bulbs in the window-garden.

Bulbs flowering through the winter add to the list of house plants a charming variety. The labor, time, and skill required is much less than for growing many of the larger plants more commonly used for winter decorations (for instructions on growing bulbs out-of-doors, see p. 281; also the entries in Chapter VIII).

Hyacinths, narcissus, tulips, and crocus, and others can be made to flower in the winter without difficulty. Secure the bulbs so as to be able to pot them by the middle or last of October, or if earlier all the better. The soil should be rich sandy loam, if possible; if not, the best that can be got, to which about one-fourth the bulk of sand is added and mixed thoroughly.

If ordinary flower-pots are to be used, place in the bottom a few pieces of broken pots, charcoal, or small stones for drainage, then fill the pot with dirt so that when the bulbs are set on the dirt the top of the bulb is even with the rim of the pot. Fill around it with soil, leaving just the tip of the bulb showing above the earth. If the soil is heavy, a good plan is to sprinkle a small handful of sand under the bulb to carry off the water, as is done in the beds outdoors. If one does not have pots, he may use boxes. Starch boxes are a good size to use, as they are not heavy to handle; and excellent flowers are sometimes secured from bulbs planted in old tomato-cans. If boxes or cans are used, care must be taken to have holes in the bottoms to let the water run out. A large hyacinth bulb will do well in a 5-inch pot. The same size pot will do for three or four narcissuses or eight to twelve crocuses.

After the bulbs are planted in the pots or other receptacles, they should be placed in a cool place, either in a cold pit or cellar, or on the shady side of a building, or, better yet, plunged or buried up to the rim of the pot in a shady border. This is done to force the roots to grow while the top stands still, as only the bulbs with good roots will give good flowers. When the weather gets so cold that a crust is frozen on the soil, the pots should be covered with a little straw, and as the weather gets colder more straw must be used. In six to eight weeks after planting the bulbs, they should have made roots enough to grow the plant, and they may be taken up and placed in a cool room for a week or so, after which, if they have started into growth, they may be taken into a warmer room where they can have plenty of light. They will grow very rapidly now and will want much water, and after the flowers begin to show, the pots may stand in a saucer of water all the time. When just coming into bloom the plants may have full sunlight part of the time to help bring out the color of the flowers.

Hyacinths, tulips, and narcissus all require similar treatment. When well rooted, which will be in six or eight weeks, they are brought out and given a temperature of some 55° to 60° till the flowers appear, when they should be kept in a cooler temperature, say 50°. The single Roman hyacinth is an excellent house plant. The flowers are small, but they are graceful and are well adapted to cutting. It is early.

The Easter lily is managed the same way, except to hasten its flowers it should be kept at not lower than 60° at night. Warmer will be better. Lily bulbs may be covered an inch or more deep in the pots.

Freesias may be potted six or more in a pot of mellow soil, and then started into growth at once. At first they may be given a night temperature of 50°; and 55° to 60° when they have begun to grow.

Small bulbs, as snowdrop and crocus, are planted several or a dozen in a pot and buried, or treated like hyacinths; but they are very sensitive to heat, and require to be given the light only when they have started to grow, without any forcing. Forty to 45° will be as warm as they ever need be kept.

Watering house plants.

It is impossible to give rules for the watering of plants. Conditions that hold with one grower are different from those of another. Advice must be general. Give one good watering at the time of potting, after which no water should be given until the plants really need it. If, on tapping the pot, it gives out a clear ring, it is an indication that water is needed. In the case of a soft-wooded plant, just before the leaves begin to show signs of wilt is the time for watering. When plants are taken up from the ground, or have their roots cut back in repotting, gardeners rely, after the first copious watering, on syringing the tops two or three times each day, until a new root-growth has started, watering at the roots only when absolutely necessary. Plants that have been potted into larger pots will grow without the extra attention of syringing, but those from the borders that have had their roots mutilated or shortened, should be placed in a cool, shady spot and be syringed often. One soon becomes familiar with the wants of individual plants, and can judge closely as to need of water. All soft-wooded plants with a large leaf-surface need more water than hard-wooded plants, and a plant in luxuriant growth of any kind more than one that has been cut back or become defoliated. When plants are grown in living-rooms, moisture must be supplied from some source, and if no arrangement has been made for securing moist air, the plants should be syringed often.

All plant-growers should learn to withhold water when plants are "resting" or not in active growth. Thus camellias, azaleas, rex begonias, palms, and many other things are usually not in their growing period in fall and midwinter, and they should then have only sufficient water to keep them in condition. When growth begins, apply water; and increase the water as the growth becomes more rapid.

Hanging baskets.

To have a good hanging basket, it is necessary that some careful provision be made to prevent too rapid drying out of the earth. It is customary, therefore, to line the pot or basket with moss. Open wire baskets, like a horse muzzle, are often lined with moss and used for the growing of plants. Prepare the earth by mixing some well-decayed leafmold with rich garden loam, thereby making an earth that will retain moisture. Hang the basket in a light place, but still not in direct sunlight; and, if possible, avoid putting it where it will be exposed to drying wind. In order to water the basket, it is often advisable to sink it into a pail or tub of water.

Various plants are well adapted to hanging baskets. Among the drooping or vine-like kinds are the strawberry geranium, Kenilworth ivy, maurandia, German ivy, canary-bird flower, Asparagus Sprengeri, ivy geranium, trailing fuchsia, wandering jew, and othonna. Among the erect-growing plants that produce flowers, Lobelia Erinus, sweet alyssum, petunias, oxalis, and various geraniums are to be recommended. Among foliage plants such things as coleus, dusty miller, begonia, and some geraniums are adaptable.

Aquarium.

A pleasant adjunct to a window-garden, living room, or conservatory, is a large glass globe or glass box containing water, in which plants and animals are living and growing. A solid glass tank or globe is better than a box with glass sides, because it does not leak, but the box must be used if one wants a large aquarium. For most persons it is better to buy the aquarium box than to attempt to make it. Five points are important in making and keeping an aquarium:

(1) The equilibrium between plant and animal life must be secured and maintained;

(2) the aquarium must be open on top to the air or well ventilated;

(3) the temperature should be kept between 40° and 50° for ordinary animals and plants (do not place in full sun in a hot window);

(4) it is well to choose such animals for the aquarium as are adapted to life in still water;

(5) the water must be kept fresh, either by the proper balance of plant and animal life or by changing the water frequently, or by both.

The aquatic plants of the neighborhood may be kept in the aquarium,--such things as myriophyllums, charas, eel-grass, duckmeats or lemnas, cabomba or fish grass, arrow-leafs or sagittaria, and the like; also the parrot's feather, to be bought of florists (a species of myriophyllum). Of animals, there are fishes (particularly minnows), water insects, tadpoles, clams, snails. If the proper balance is maintained between plant and animal life, it will not be necessary to change the water so frequently.

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