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         Florida Caverns: A Nature-Made Underground Wonderland


[Illustration: The stone administration building, which has been erected
near the entrance to the caverns, was built by hand from the solid rock
foundation to the hand-riven cypress shake roof. The walls are built of
beautifully weathered native limestone and the shelter roof is supported
by hand-hewn timbers prepared on the ground. Parties, who tour the
caverns, join guides here and return after the tour.]

[Illustration: Florida Caverns]




                            FLORIDA CAVERNS


  Here we behold most wondrous sights
      No mortal understands,
  Of stalactites and stalagmites,
      A house not made with hands.

  Here Nature set to work her hands
      In ages long since gone,
  That man might quit his work on lands
      To see and ponder on.

  What means these fluted columns tall,—
      These pendants from the dome?
  These sculptured figures large and small,
      Excelling Greece and Rome?

  This drapery striped with Nature’s hues,
      In regular spaces wrought?
  These scenes man’s pride at once subdues—
      They are beyond his thought.

  The brute would look and turn away
      To seek his fill of food;
  ’Tis ours to seek while here we stay,
      The Great Creative Good.

  The Architect within whose mind
      The wonders of the sea,
  The land, the sky, and all their kind,
      Has wrought for you and me.

  That we may look upon His deeds
      And make our own expand,
  For we alone best serve all needs
      As tools within His hand.

                                                   —_Charles Cottingham_
                                                     _Marianna, Florida_

[Illustration: The stalagmite on the right is almost joined with a
stalactite. If it does, it will make a column. The grape-like clusters in
the upper foreground result when the flow of water is so slow that all of
it evaporates from the ceilings and deposits its mineral load there.]




                            FLORIDA CAVERNS
                        A NATURE-MADE WONDERLAND


                         _By_ Robert O. Vernon
            _Assistant Director, Florida Geological Survey_

Florida is truly a child of the sea, since all the rocks composing its
land were formed directly on the ocean bottoms or by streams emptying
along the shores. From the record of these rocks we know that Florida has
been alternately above and below the sea many times in the geologic past.
In fact, the rocks visible in the park area at Florida Caverns, near
Marianna, Florida, and in the caves were formed from the hard shells of
animals that lived in one of these seas. As the animals died, their
shells accumulated on the sea bottoms, where they were covered by other
shells and hardened into lime rock.

These shells, called “fossils” by the geologist, are remains representing
cemeteries of the past. Along most of our coastal areas and sea bottoms
these shells are accumulating and forming limestone today. Such limestone
has formed also in the areas many miles removed from the present seas, as
in Iowa and other middle western states, telling us where seas have been
in the past.

[Illustration: As visitors explore the well-lighted trails and
passageways, they notice the icicle-like formations that hang from the
ceilings and the heavier ones that project from the floor. They study the
columns that seem to help support the rock above and the small passages
that extend in many directions. They notice sea shells imbedded in walls
and ceilings.]

How do we know that these limestones were formed in the sea? The next
time you go through the caves at Florida Caverns look closely at the
walls and you will be able to find the shells of _Scollops_ and other
clams. These animals lived only in shallow seas. The most common shell
that you will notice will be many small coiled flat shells about the size
of barley seed and flat thin disks about the size of dimes and quarters.
The animals that formed these shells are known as _Foraminifera_ and have
the fancy names of _Operculinoides_ and _Lepidocyclina_. They are one
celled animals (our most primitive) and are related to some of the
parasites that cause disease. These particular animals are extinct and
are known only from these rocks. From their association with other shells
they are known to have lived in shallow salt-water seas, and by means of
them the geologist is able to recognize this particular limestone, even
when it has been taken from a well drilled many feet below the ground
surface, for these small shells are recognizable even when the limestone
has been broken into fine fragments.

The limestone in which the caves of Florida Caverns were carved is known
from geologic studies made throughout the state to have been raised from
the sea by land movements after being formed and to have been extensively
eroded, following which it was again submerged under the sea and other
limestones deposited over the eroded surface. These limestones were
subsequently raised out of the sea to be eroded. Over this second eroded
surface a delta deposit of sand, clay and gravel was formed by streams
that emptied into the Gulf of Mexico.

The limestone that you will see in the caves is known as the Ocala
limestone, named from deposits near Ocala, Florida. In the region about
the Florida Caverns, limestones named the Suwannee limestone and the
Marianna limestone overlie the Ocala limestone. These limestones were
named for deposits recognized along the Suwannee river and at Marianna,
Florida. The sand, clay and gravel overlying all of these limestones are
not named but are believed to be the same age as deposits of the geologic
period popularly known as the “ice age.”

[Illustration: The “duck” results from irregular resistance of the
limestone to solution by ground water. These nodular masses were more
resistant and the less-resistant, usually softer limestone has been
removed from about them, leaving the form resembling a duck. Several
stalagmites are in the background. These are younger than the “duck.”]

Since emerging from the sea for the last time, this part of Florida about
the state park area has been undergoing changes constantly. The rocks
have been continuously attacked by elements of the weather, and
disintegrated where exposed. Running streams carry away much of these
products of weathering, but the work of water under the ground is the
major factor in the creation of these caves and the deposits in them.
This underground water, running through the pores in the limestone, has
been and is now wearing away portions of the land. These water channels
are isolated along fractures, bedding planes and other structural
weaknesses, or along poorly consolidated rock. The water dissolves the
limestone and carries it out into surface streams and on to the sea, and
as this material is carried away the rock, through which the water flowed
to the surface, is being worn away an equal amount. The amount of this
material being carried away is illustrated at Silver Springs, one of our
larger springs, where each day about 450 tons of rock is carried away
dissolved in water. When it is realized that this is only one of
thousands of springs in Florida, you can readily see what a large amount
of rock is being dissolved from beneath the ground and just how cavernous
the rock must be.


_All forms of wildlife are protected in Florida’s State Parks. Hunting,
trapping, or shooting are not permitted. These State Parks belong to you.
Help protect them._

_For further information on specific parks and historic memorials write:
Director, Florida Board of Parks and Historic Memorials, Tallahassee,
Florida._

[Illustration: Ground water cascading down a gentle limestone face was
ponded irregularly and the evaporation of the water along the outer edges
formed small terraces.]




                         Solution of Limestone


The rocks in which the caves of the Florida Caverns State Park were
formed are limestone. This rock is made of the mineral calcite, calcium
carbonate, and it is soluble in pure water under conditions of favorable
structure, a continuous supply of moving water and time. However, in the
water of Florida this limestone is readily dissolved, because the humid
climate and prolific vegetation contribute organic and mineral acids to
water and make it a highly potent solvent that is capable of dissolving
large amounts of this rock.

Limestone is as a rule jointed vertically and bedded horizontally.
Openings along these joints and beds provide easy avenues of travel for
water. The ultimate source of all of Florida’s ground water is from the
rain and precipitates from the air. As this rain water falls through the
air it becomes charged with carbon dioxide gas which combines with water
to form carbonic acid. On the ground humic acids from rotting vegetation
is added. These are the common natural solvents of limestone. A good
portion of this acid charged water soaks into the ground, and as it
descends through lime rock small portions of the rock are dissolved.
However, relatively little solution occurs until sufficient water enters
the rock to fill completely all the available pores. In this portion of
the rock, saturated with water and bathed with weak acids, solution is
most active. Because of the pressure of water entering the rock, ground
water tends to move horizontally along bedding planes which offer the
easiest exit. Thus, cave systems generally are developed horizontally and
one system may lie over another and they may be connected by vertical
tubes and rooms.

[Illustration: Weird vistas and eerie silhouettes meet the eyes of
visitors who explore the amazing networks of trails in Florida Caverns.
Droplets of mineral water, dripping through the ages, formed these
underground caves into a natural, but highly artistic wonderland.]

Any rain water entering the rock from the surface makes its way downward
to fill completely all the pores of the rock at some depth. At it moves
downward and then into the saturated rock through pores and open spaces
it acts as a slow solvent to increase the size of the openings and to
connect them to form a continuous system of channels through which
streams filling the cavities may run.

As large caverns are formed, solution cavities of irregular shape are
gradually cut out and enlarged. Some of these may be expanded to a point
near the surface where surface deposits (largely sand in Florida) will
collapse into the cavern and a sink is formed. The larger part of
Florida’s natural lakes, sinks, depressions and ponds are the result of
solution of the underlying limestone. These features range from small
pits a few feet in diameter to large depressions several miles broad.
Many are perfectly round, others are highly irregular. Some are
cone-shaped with rocky bottoms, some have broadly developed flat bottoms
and are known as prairies. Still others are vertical tubes, only a few
inches in diameter in some cases, that extend as much as one hundred feet
down into the limestones. These are “natural wells.”


_Florida’s State Parks include miles of white sand beaches, fine streams,
beautiful springs, excellent fishing waters, floral displays, wooded
ravines and outstanding recreational areas. It is the Florida in which
the Indians hunted, fished and lived in original surroundings of great
natural charm and wildlife profusion ... where yet remains the memory and
imprint of Spanish conquistadores, French crusaders and Anglo-Saxon
colonizers. Phenomena such as disappearing rivers, vanishing lakes,
historic shrines, virgin country, strange subterranean landscapes are all
to be seen inside the parks._

[Illustration: “Fresh crisp bacon” formed by water flowing originally
from a crack or elongate hole and cascading down the face of the
limestone. The deposit formed as a small ridge that then acted as the
course of subsequent water which added additional deposits. The dark
bands contain some impurity to give a color to the ordinarily white
calcite.]




                       Land Movements in Florida


If these caves, we see in the Florida Caverns Park area, were formed
under water, how is it possible to walk through them today? This is an
obvious question which requires an answer. If rocks formed under marine
waters are exposed on the land surface today it is obvious that the land
has been raised out of the sea, or the sea has lowered. From geologic
evidence it is known that Florida has been rising since late geologic
time. This elevation is believed to be caused by downwarping at the mouth
of the Mississippi River, where many thousands of box car loads of
sediment are dumped each day, accompanied by adjustments in the earth’s
crust and the elevation of land areas surrounding the delta of the
Mississippi River.

Then there is a second cause by which these caves are made dry. Everyone
has heard that ice caps the North and South poles of the earth, but few
people realize that, if all this ice melted, the level of the sea as it
is known today would be higher by about 110 feet. If all polar ice
melted, the Chipola River at Florida Caverns, would become a salt bay,
Marianna a seaport town, and a bay beach would be located near the park
area. However, do not sell your present beach property too quickly since
this polar ice is known to be melting only a few inches a century.

[Illustration: Well-lighted, underground trails make accessible Florida’s
amazing network of underground passageways. The temperature remains at
about 63 degrees, F. throughout the year. In addition, natural rock
gardens, wildlife, historical values and recreational facilities make
Florida Caverns one of the South’s outstanding State Parks.]

Considering the sub-tropical climate of Florida, isn’t it peculiar that
ice had so much to do in shaping our land surface? As a matter of record
all of the surficial deposits making up the large part of the land
surface of Florida were created and shaped during the geologic past (one
to ten million years ago) when ice piled up on the poles and moved down
over lower latitudes or when this ice was being melted. In the United
States as this ice piled up on the North Pole and moved down over most of
the middle western states, the water forming this ice came from ocean
basins and the water in them was lowered as much as three to four hundred
feet. At this time much of the Gulf and Atlantic bottoms was uncovered,
land streams cut their valleys much deeper, ground water circulated much
more vigorously and rocks through which it passed were dissolved faster.
Later as this ice was melted the lower parts of stream valleys were
filled with salt water and the streams became sluggish and deposited
sediment in their valleys to make their flood-plains. Ground-water
circulation was retarded and the bottoms of the Gulf and Atlantic were
again covered. This uncovering of the bottoms of the Gulf and Atlantic
followed by covering constitutes a cycle. Five of these cycles have been
recognized in Florida, and the red sands, clay and gravel that make up
the surface of most of Florida represent former bottoms of the Gulf and
Atlantic, now raised out of these seas by land movements.

Today we are living in a period following a time the northern and
southern extremes of the earth were covered by ice, and this ice is still
melting off of these areas.


_In 71,000 acres of parks, valued at approximately $50,000,000, Florida
offers the vacationer a natural wonderland he can explore. Within these
park areas the visitor can discover for himself the “true” Florida by
car, along foot trails, navigating tropical rivers and streams—or by
following elevated boardwalks through hauntingly beautiful swamps._

[Illustration: Stalagmites resulting from varied origins. The center one
was formed from the intergrowth of several stalagmites. The deposit on
the left was developed as a series of flat basin-like parts, over which
water splashed and cascaded to the floor, the basins being inclined in
various directions. The right stalagmite began as did the left one but
the basins were soon eliminated and the growth was made more regularly.]




                            Deposits in Cave


We have seen then in the preceding discussion how caves are formed
largely in rocks saturated with water, and how by land movements and
changes of sea level the caves and pores formed in this rock are moved
above permanent water levels and exposed to air. It then becomes possible
to deposit rock in the pores and caves rather than to increase their size
by solution. As you go through the caves you will notice that the walls
are wet and that water is oozing out of the pores of the rock.

This water has just passed through limestone and has dissolved parts of
the rock. The reader undoubtedly knows that water will dissolve a
substance in large quantities and more rapidly if it is hot, and that it
can hold more gases to make stronger acids if it is under pressure. So,
having been released from a relatively warm rock in which it was under
some pressure and where there was little air circulating, into a large
cave where rapidly circulating air cools the cave and evaporates the
water, this water can no longer hold all the limestone it has dissolved
and it releases part of it.

Small drops of water emerging from the lime rock on cave walls are
evaporated and calcite and other rock minerals are deposited along these
walls. Where these drops cascade along the walls a continuous elongated
ridge is deposited. If the water oozes out in an extremely fine coating
of water, the entire ceiling, walls and floor may be paved with calcite.

[Illustration: These deposits combine a rather even and general flow of
water and possible intergrowth of the stalactites to make the thickened
deposit. The ground water issued more rapidly and was concentrated at one
point to make the long tubular deposits, the tube being made by rapid
evaporation along the outer margins of the drops of water as they hang on
the stalactite before the large part of the water falls to the floor.]

Where individual drops collect on the cave ceilings, a thin deposit may
be formed on the ceiling after which the remaining water may drop to the
cave floor where more calcite is deposited. Continuous dripping results
in paired deposits extending down from the ceiling and up from the floor.
The deposit on the floor is commonly thicker and more columnar, whereas
that on the ceiling is thin and tapering much like an icicle. Those
hanging from the ceiling are called _stalactites_ and those on the floor
are _stalagmites_. Where these two deposits are joined they are known as
a _column_.

These cave formations are all composed of the mineral calcite, which
forms all lime rock. If you will notice in the cave this mineral is
crystalline, and it is remarkable that as calcite crystallizes from the
many individual drops of water it is arranged always in a particular
pattern. These crystal faces reflect light and form the many unusual and
beautiful arrangements which you will see in a visit to the caves.




                             Early History


Since early time, Florida Caverns have had interest. They were first
mentioned in writings by Friar Barreda, who was with the first overland
expedition made by the Spaniards to Pensacola Bay. The following
paragraph is in the Friar’s own words, written 256 years ago:

“On June 12 (1693) we continued northwest and after we had journeyed a
little more than three leagues ... we reached an abandoned village of the
Choctaw tribe called San Nicholas where I came to preach the holy gospel
in the year 1674. Here we spent the night in the hollow of such a
beautiful and unusual rock that I can state positively that more than 200
men could be lodged most comfortably in it. Inside, there is a brook
which gushes from the living rock.”

[Illustration: This form is the result of the irregular etching of the
limestone by ground water at the time the caves were formed, combined
with the later development of stalagmites and a pavement of calcite
“drip-stone” upon the irregular surface. Dust and small debris have been
incorporated in the crystals of calcite which form the stalagmites.
Visitors like to make a game of finding formations in the cave that
resemble animals and other things. Note the wolf head to the right and
the Dachshund head to the left center of the photograph.]

Experts, who know how to read stories told in the designs on Indian
pottery, state that the caves were known to the Indians of this section
long before the coming of the Spaniards. There is considerable evidence
that Indians, even prior to 1693, had been in the habit of using Florida
Caverns and caves in the vicinity for shelter during their hunting trips
into the region and for refuge from their enemies. In some of the smaller
and dry caves there have been found potsherds, or small broken pieces of
Indian pottery. According to the archaeologist, all of the sherds so far
discovered are of a late post-Columbian type. Ashes from fires, dead for
many years, flint arrowheads, and animal bones have also been found.

Several times in history, Florida Caverns—a nature-made shelter—was used
as a refuge from armed forces. During Andrew Jackson’s punitive
expedition against the Indians in 1818, a large band of Indians escaped
from his soldiers by concealing themselves within the underground caves.
Again, during the War Between the States, an outfit of Union soldiers en
route to Pensacola was resisted by a home guard unit from Marianna,
composed of men too young or too old to fight in the armies of the
Confederacy. While the battle was raging, women, children and slaves took
refuge in Florida Caverns.

[Illustration: Nestled ’midst hundreds of pines, hickories, sweetgum and
oak trees, Florida Caverns golf course is one of the most scenic in the
United States. It was laid out after the design of the famous St. Andrews
Golf Course of Scotland.]

A clear spring, which in reality is a subterranean river, rising out of
the lime rock, sends its lovely azure stream down through the park over a
mile before it enters the Chipola River. The Chipola Natural Bridge,
located in the park, is a fourth-mile long and has been restored to its
original interesting geological condition with the removal of logs and
lumber which had jammed into it in bygone days when the river was used to
float them down to a mill.

Open the year round, Florida Caverns State Park is comparable in interest
to Carlsbad Caverns, N. M., Mammoth Caves, Ky., and Luray Caverns, Va.

In addition to its geological attractions, the area in which Florida
Caverns is located is of peculiar interest biologically. In it are found
many species of both plants and animals that are not expected so far
south, as well as a large number of typically southern forms.

The State Park system of Florida has been developed as a coordinated
group of Parks, each one of which stands upon its own merits and each one
possessing as many as possible of the following values: Outstanding
historic, scenic and scientific attractions. Florida Caverns is richly
endowed with them all.

I hope that you have found this discussion of the creation of lime rock,
the formation of caves under water, the elevation of these caves above
permanent water levels and the subsequent deposition in them, of
interest.... We of the Florida Geological Survey and Florida Park Service
hope that you enjoy your visit to the Florida Caverns State Park.


_This booklet published by The Florida Park Service, Tallahassee;
photography by Monte de Oca, F.S. N.B., and William Z. Harmon; designed
and printed by Rose Printing Co., Inc., Tallahassee._

[Illustration: Overhanging rock projection caused by erosion of ancient
river. Note large tree growing in rock behind upper visitor. This feature
may be all that remains of a large cave, the surrounding limestone having
been removed. If the overhanging portion were connected to land a perfect
natural bridge would be formed.]

[Illustration: Who would expect to find this cavern scene in Florida?
Icicle-like formations and a mirror pool are features of one of the
state’s most unexpected attractions at Florida Caverns State Park.]




                           MARIANNA, FLORIDA
                     _The Home of Florida Caverns_


Marianna is located in the northwest section of Florida, approximately
twenty miles from both the Georgia and the Alabama state lines. The Gulf
of Mexico lies forty-five miles to the south, the Apalachicola River
fifteen miles to the east, and Port St. Joe only seventy miles southeast
of Marianna. It is relatively easy to travel to the various population
centers of the southeast because of Marianna’s centralized location.

Airline Service—The city is served by National Airlines, with three
flights daily, with direct service to Mobile, New Orleans, and
Jacksonville, and good connections to all major cities. Also available is
charter service through local flying agencies.

Bus Service—Marianna is a terminal station for Greyhound and Trailway Bus
Lines, and approximately 2,000 passengers daily are handled through this
station. Thirty-six regular bus schedules serve the city each twenty-four
hours. Lee’s Coach Lines, a Jackson County bus system, regularly serves
surrounding communities.

Rail Transportation—Marianna is served by the Louisville and Nashville
Railroad, and by the Marianna and Blountstown Railroad. The Atlanta and
St. Andrews Railroad traverses Jackson County, serving Cottondale, nine
miles west of Marianna, and gives direct connections from Panama City and
the Gulf of Mexico to Atlanta and other points.

Hotels, Motels and Restaurants—Marianna is a first-class hotel and motel
city, boasting three hotels, the largest of which has 125 rooms, as well
as a number of outstanding modern, air-conditioned motels. A number of
restaurants and dining rooms serve the traveling and working public. Also
rating first-class are several tourist homes along U. S. Highway 90.

Highways—Marianna is served by U. S. Highway 90, and by State Highways
276, 73, 167, and 71. U. S. Highway 231 connects with U. S. 90 only a few
miles outside Marianna. An excellent system of hard surfaced highways and
roads serve the county.

For further or definite information write Marianna-Jackson County Chamber
of Commerce, Marianna, Florida.

[Illustration: Map showing principal highways leading to Marianna, home
of Florida Caverns State Park.]




                      Scenic and Historic Florida
                       _Year Around Attractions_


Whether you are a visitor or a resident, you will want to know more about
Florida’s State Park System which preserves the tropic lure of primitive
Florida and perpetuates memorials of Florida’s absorbing history.

This system of parks and historic memorials, in areas ranging from a few
hundred to 26,000 acres, embraces more than 71,000 acres of the most
wonderful land in Florida.

These parks in their varied appeals offer recreation possibilities
extending from a few hours diversion to extended vacations.


                        STATE PARKS IN OPERATION
                    (_Acreage shown in parentheses_)


  Hugh Taylor Birch (180)                                 Ft. Lauderdale
  Florida Caverns (1,131)                                       Marianna
  Fort Clinch (1,086)                                         Fernandina
  Gold Head Branch (1,338)                              Keystone Heights
  Highlands Hammock (3,800)                                      Sebring
  Hillsborough River (2,777)                                 Zephyrhills
  Little Talbot Island (2,500)                              Jacksonville
  Myakka River (26,747)                                         Sarasota
  O’Leno (1,388)                                            High Springs
  Killearn Gardens (306)                                     Tallahassee


                             SCIENTIFIC AREA


  John F. Rollins Bird and Plant Sanctuary (120)       Ft. George Island


                     STATE PARKS PARTIALLY DEVELOPED


  Fort Pickens (1,659)                                         Pensacola
  Manatee Springs (1,381)                                      Chiefland
  Collier-Seminole (6,423)                            Royal Palm Hammock
  Tomoka (712)                                                    Ormond
  Torreya (1,138)                                             Rock Bluff


                         UNDEVELOPED STATE PARKS


  Anastasia (852)                                          St. Augustine
  DeSoto (216)                                                Titusville
  Jonathan Dickinson (11,124)                                 Hobe Sound
  Lake Griffin (726)                                            Leesburg
  Pellicer Creek (729)                                     St. Augustine
  Ribaut Refuge (139)                                      Flagler Beach
  St. Andrews (1,000)                                        Panama City
  Santa Rosa (1,339)                                           Pensacola
  Suwannee River (1,831)                                       Ellaville


                            HISTORIC MEMORIALS


  Olustee Battlefield (5)                                        Olustee
  Battle of Marianna                                            Marianna
  Constitution Convention (12)                              Port St. Joe
  Dade Memorial Park (40)                                       Bushnell
  Battle of Natural Bridge (6)                                 Woodville
  Confederate Monument                                  DeFuniak Springs
  Madira Bickel Mound (10)                             Terra Ceia Island
  Yellow Bluff (2)                                          Jacksonville
  Gorrie State Park                                         Apalachicola
  Bulow Ruins and Plantation (109)                               Bunnell
  Ormond Tomb (9.3)                                               Korona
  Addison Blockhouse (5)                                          Ormond
  Turtle Mound (10)                                       Coronado Beach
  Historic Sugar Mill (17)                              New Smyrna Beach
  Green Mound (6)                                      Wilbur-by-the-Sea
  Yulee Sugar Mill                                             Homosassa
  Huguenot Historic Site (104)                              Jacksonville
  Gamble Mansion—Judah P. Benjamin Memorial (5)                 Ellenton


                                 PARKWAY


  Florida Overseas Parkway                                 Monroe County
                    (Internal Improvement Fund Lands)




                                  VISIT
                                _Florida_
                    STATE PARKS and HISTORIC MEMORIALS


[Illustration: Map of Western Florida]

[Illustration: Map of Eastern Florida]

[Illustration: Back Cover Illustration]




                          Transcriber’s Notes


--Original publication information was retained, although this book is
  public-domain in the country of publication.

--Some obvious typos were silently corrected.

--Moved the information about other Florida state parks from the
  centerfold to the end of the text.







End of Project Gutenberg's Florida Caverns State Park, by Robert O. Vernon