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  THE LADIES’
  KNITTING AND NETTING
  BOOK.

  SECOND SERIES.




  THE LADIES’ KNITTING
  AND NETTING
  BOOK.


  BY MISS WATTS.


  SECOND SERIES.


  Second Edition.

  ENTERED AT STATIONERS’ HALL.


  LONDON:
  JOHN MILAND, 35, CHAPEL STREET,
  BELGRAVE SQUARE.

  1840.




  Lessons given in knitting and netting.
  For terms and address, apply to the Publisher.


  W. DAVY, PRINTER, GILBERT STREET, OXFORD STREET.




CONTENTS.


                                              PAGE

  Gentlemen’s Knitted Gloves                     1
  Netted ditto                                   3
  Feather ditto                                  5
  Plain open Mittens                             8
  Another Plain ditto                           10
  Annet ditto                                   11
  Honeycomb ditto                               13
  Matrimony ditto                               15
  Lambs’-wool ditto                            ib.
  Round Netted ditto                            17
  Mitten, with a leaf wreath round the top      18
  Feather Mits                                  20
  Cuffs, Peacock Stitch                         21
  Netted Cuffs                                  22
  Warm ditto                                    23
  Muffatees                                     24
  Ditto                                        ib.
  Gentlemen’s ditto                             25
  Cushion Cover                                 26
  Sofa Pillow ditto                             27
  Striped Cushion ditto                        ib.
  Knitted Mat, with Fringe                      28
  Netted Mat                                    30
  Vase ditto                                   ib.
  Table mats                                    31
  Table ditto, in one piece                     32
  Napkin Ring                                   33
  A Pence Purse, or Jug                        ib.
  Bouquetier. No. 1.                            35
    Ditto     No. 2.                            36
  Tidy Basket                                   37
  Ladder Stitch Bag                             38
  Crossed Stitch ditto                          39
  Netted ditto                                  40
  Fringe                                       ib.
  Netted ditto                                  41
  Scarf ditto                                  ib.
  Fringe                                        42
  Rug ditto                                    ib.
  Carriage Rug                                  43
  Striped Purse                                 44
  Chequered ditto                               45
  Purse in Round Netting                       ib.
  Matrimony--For a Purse                        46
  Another                                      ib.
  Annet Purse                                   47
  Honeycomb Purse                               48
  Another Honeycomb                            ib.
  Netted Purse                                  49
  Single Diamond Netting                       ib.
  Treble ditto                                  50
  Knitted Purse                                 52
  Stitches for Purses. No. 1.                   53
        Ditto.         No. 2.                  ib.
        Ditto.         No. 3.                   54
        Ditto.         No. 4.                  ib.
        Ditto.         No. 5.                   55
  Stitches for Purses. No. 6                    56
        Ditto          No. 7                    57
  Bead Netting                                 ib.
    Ditto                                       58
  Dice Knitting                                ib.
  Open Fan, for a Quilt                         60
  Gauffre Fans, for ditto                       62
  Ribbed Squares, for ditto                     64
  Open work Fan, for ditto                      65
  An Open Border                                66
  Another Border                                67
  A Last Border, for a Quilt                    68
  Grecian Border                                69
  Diamond Knitting                              70
  Border for a Table Cover                      71
  Border and Fringe                             72
  Scarf for the Throat                          73
  Scarf Edge                                    74
  Scarf                                         75
  Netted ditto                                  76
  Porcupine Boa                                ib.
  Leggings                                      77
  Waistcoat                                     78
  Knitted ditto                                 79
  Warm Tippet                                   80
  Night Cap                                     82
    Ditto                                       83
  Lambs’-wool sleeve                            84
  Cephaline                                    ib.
  Diamond Knitting                              85
  Another ditto                                 87
  Small Feather Pattern                         89
  Double Eyelet Knitting                       ib.
  Gouty Shoes                                   90
  To Increase and Decrease in Double Knitting   91
  Double Knitted Soles                          92
  Lambs’-wool Boot                              93
  Baby’s Lambs’-wool Cap                        94
    Ditto Hat                                  ib.
    Ditto Stockings                             95
    Ditto Gaiters                               97
    Ditto Spencer                              ib.
    Ditto Stays                                 99
    Ditto Socks                                101
  Netted Curtain                               103
  Brioche                                      ib.
  A Blanket                                    105
  Blanket in strips                            ib.
  Netted Lace                                  106
  Puff Netting                                 107
  A Cool Night-cap                             ib.
  Suspenders                                   108
  Parisian Net Knitting                        110
  Diamond Knitting                             112
  Four Patterns for Doyleys, &c.               113
  Mazaniello Cap                               115
  Muff                                         117
  Ditto                                        119
  Terms used in Knitting                       120




THE LADIES’ KNITTING AND NETTING BOOK.

SECOND SERIES.


_Gentlemen’s Knitted Gloves._

     Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambs’-wool.

Cast on 88 stitches, 28 on each of 2 needles, and 32 on the 3rd, knit
round, knitting and ribbing 4 stitches alternately; when you have done
about one inch, continue with plain knitting[2-*] until your glove is
long enough to begin increasing for the thumb, which is done by knitting
twice in one stitch (that is, when you have knitted the stitch, knit it
again at the back before you slip it off the needle,) in the middle of a
needle. Knit a plain round; then increase twice in every other round
before and after the last increase; continue this until you have
stitches enough for the thumb (about 29); take all the stitches except
those for the thumb, on two _other_ needles; divide the stitches for the
thumb on 3 of your 4 needles and knit round, decreasing gradually at the
join towards the end; take the remaining stitches, about 9, on a worsted
needle and sew it up. Divide the stitches for the hand again on your
needles, taking up 5 stitches at the bottom of the thumb for the gusset;
knit two rounds; in the next three rounds decrease 3 stitches of the
gusset: knit plain until the glove is long enough to begin the fingers;
begin with the first finger, which will require 27 stitches, decrease as
you may think fit at the end of the finger. This will leave 25, 23, and
21 stitches for the 3 succeeding fingers. When you have finished the
first finger, you must take up 4 stitches at the bottom for a gusset,
these may be decreased or not according to the size required.

     [2-*] If you wish to make a seam on the outside of the glove, or a
     pattern down the back, it may be done by purling one or more
     stitches.


_Netted Gloves._

     The mesh to net these gloves should be No. 14, and the netting silk
     fine.

Begin on a round foundation of 50 stitches; net 6 rounds, net 1 round,
putting the silk twice round the mesh, this is to make a place to run
the ribbon in; net 6 rounds, then begin to increase for the thumb by
netting twice in one stitch, net one stitch, net twice in the next
stitch: continue to increase in the same manner every other round,
before and after where you increased last, until you have 19 (or 21 for
rather a large size) stitches for the thumb; net one round, then net the
stitches for the thumb _round_, when you have done 1 round decrease once
in every round at the join for 4 or 5 rounds; net until the thumb is
long enough and in the last round take 2 stitches in 1 and sew up the
end: (the fingers are finished in the same way.) Fasten on your silk at
the bottom of the thumb, and net 4 extra stitches for a gusset; net 5
rounds, in the 6th decrease 2 stitches of the 4; net 10 or 12 rounds
according to the size required. Now begin the first finger, for which 16
stitches are required, net round and finish like the thumb; the other
fingers are done in the same way, except that you must make a gusset of
two stitches, which are not to be decreased, at the bottom of the
_finished_ finger, this allows 15 stitches, including the two of the
gusset, for the second finger, 14 for the third, and 12 for the fourth.
Run a pattern on the back with flox silk.


_Feather Gloves._

     Four needles No. 19, and very fine cotton are required.

Cast 64 stitches on 1 needle, and 38 on each of the other two: knit
round, knitting and ribbing 5 stitches alternately until you have half
an inch. Then knit a round, putting the cotton _round the needle_, and
knitting 2 stitches taken together, this is to make a runner for the
ribbon. Knit 3 rounds plain. Knit the stitches of the first needle plain
and begin the feather pattern for the back with the second needle, bring
the cotton forward knit a stitch, repeat this twice, decrease by
knitting 2 stitches taken together 3 times, knit 1 stitch, which is the
centre stitch of the pattern, decrease 3 times, increase 3 times, and
repeat these 19 stitches until you come to the needle with 64 stitches,
which is always plain knitting. Knit 3 rounds. Repeat these 4 rounds
until the glove is long enough to begin to increase for the thumb:
after the 3 plain rounds, knit 1 stitch, increase 1 by taking up a
stitch between 2 stitches, knit 1, increase 1: continue to increase in
the same manner before and after the last increase, every other round,
continuing the pattern on the 2 needles as before. When you have 9
stitches for the thumb, and have knitted the round without increasing,
knit a stitch, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, knit 2 stitches
taken together, knit a stitch (this is to be the centre stitch of the
thumb), knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch,
knit 1 stitch, increase as before.

When you have knitted the 3 rounds, increasing as usual, on the 1st
needle, knit 1 stitch, increase 1, bring the cotton forward, knit a
stitch, repeat this, decrease twice, knit the centre stitch, decrease
twice, increase twice, increase the stitch for the thumb. In the next
round of the holes of the _pattern_ you will have 17 stitches for the
thumb: increase as usual, knit 2 stitches, increase twice, decrease
twice; knit the centre stitch, decrease twice, increase twice, knit 2,
increase 1. In future you will have stitches enough to make the pattern
down the thumb like the pattern at the back, which is to be done with
the 19 middle stitches of the thumb, the rest on either side are to be
knitted plain: when you have increased 45 stitches and knitted 1 round,
take all the other stitches on 2 _other_ needles, and knit the thumb
round, gradually decreasing a few stitches at the join. When the thumb
is finished take the stitches for the hand on your needles as before,
take up 5 stitches for the gusset at the bottom of the thumb, and
continue knitting as before, (on the third needle you will have an odd
stitch, which belongs to the 1st needle, it will prevent any mistake if
you pass it on to the 1st needle); after doing a few rounds, decrease
the gusset stitches until you have 64 stitches on the 1st needle:
continue the pattern as before, and when the glove is long enough, begin
the 1st finger with the first plain 20 stitches and the opposite 19;
knit round, continuing the pattern down the outside of the finger: when
you have done this finger, take up 4 stitches for the gusset at the
bottom of the 1st finger,[8-*] 16 plain stitches, and 19 of the pattern.
The other 2 fingers are done in the same manner: 14 plain stitches, 19
of the pattern, for the third finger, and 12 plain stitches and 19 of
the pattern for the 4th finger, these numbers do not include the gusset
stitches.

When finished, sew a piece of lace round the top, and run a narrow
ribbon in the holes.

     [8-*] These stitches may be decreased again or not.


_Plain open Mittens._

     Begin on a round foundation of 30 or 34 stitches, with a mesh No.
     14, and moderately fine silk.

Net 6 rounds, net 1 round with the silk twice round the mesh, (for the
ribbon to run in,) and 6 rounds with it once round the mesh; in the next
round, net 14 stitches, increase 1 stitch in both the following
stitches, complete the round, and net 2 rounds without increase.
Increase again in the next round before and after the stitches in which
you increased before; net 2 rounds. Continue to increase 2 stitches
every 3rd round until you have increased 7 times on each side, (to make
the thumb fit nicely, the increase stitches should be made _over_ each
other for the last 3 times.) Net 1 round and the 14 thumb stitches. Net
the thumb round for a round or two, and decrease by netting 2 together,
if necessary, until the thumb fits tight; when it is nearly long enough
net 1 round, 2 stitches in every stitch twice round the mesh; 1 round,
taking the 2 stitches together, on a finer mesh, and 2 rounds on the
fine mesh to finish. Cut off the silk, and fasten it on at one side of
the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side and continue to net until the
mitten is long enough. Finish the hand in the same way in which the
thumb was finished. If it be thought an improvement, the 4 last rows can
be repeated at the wrist, or a lace sewn on to finish it.


_Another plain Mitten._

     On a smaller mesh than the preceding.

Begin with a foundation of 39 stitches, net 3 _rows_ with the silk once
round the mesh, 1 row with it twice round the mesh, and 3 more rows with
it once. Now begin to net _rounds_ instead of _rows_, by netting the
last stitch of the row to the first. Net 9 rounds. Net 6 stitches,
increase 1 in the 7th, finish the round. In the next round increase a
stitch on each side of the stitch added last round, finish the round and
net another round without increase. Increase _outside_ the last
additional stitches every other round until you have 7 additional
stitches. Net a plain round. Next round, increase _within_ the
additional stitches; a plain round. Increase a second time _within_ the
last increase; net 3 plain rounds; continue to net until you come to the
stitch _over_ the last added stitch, net this to the corresponding
stitch on the other side of the thumb, net round the thumb (decreasing
to make it fit properly) until it is nearly long enough: finish it by
netting 1 round with double silk _twice_, and 3 rounds with single silk
_once_, round the mesh. To finish the hand, fasten on the silk at the
side of the thumb, make 2 additional stitches on each side, (if after 2
rows you decrease these 4 stitches to 2 the thumb will set better), and
net until the mitten is nearly long enough, then repeat twice the 4
rounds with which the thumb is finished; the last round should be done
on rather a finer mesh.


_Annet Mittens._

Begin with 60 stitches. Net 4 _rows_; then net 1 row with the silk twice
round the mesh, 2 rows with it once round the mesh, and begin to net
_rounds_ instead of _rows_. In the 1st round, every stitch has the silk
passed twice round the mesh. 2nd round, pull the 1st stitch through the
2nd (from the back), net it, pull the 2nd stitch through the middle of
the 1st, net it (taking care not to twist it), pull the 3rd through the
4th, net it, pull the 4th through the middle of the 3rd, net it, repeat
these stitches until the round is completed. Net 1 round passing the
silk twice round the mesh. In the next round, which is like the second,
care must be taken that the thick part comes over the open part in the
last pattern. In the round which follows, net 11 stitches twice round
the mesh, increase 2 stitches in the 12th, net 5, and increase 2
stitches in the 6th. (All the stitches in this round have the silk
passed twice round the mesh.) The next round is like the 2nd. Net 1
round twice round the mesh; then 1 like the 2nd. Repeat both these
rounds. Net a round passing the silk twice round the mesh, increasing 2
stitches on each side; these additional stitches should be 4 further
back than the last were, so as to leave a row of open stitches slanting
from the 1st to the 2nd. Net 4 rounds as before. Increase again. Net 4
rounds more, and increase 2 stitches on each side _over_ the last
additional stitches. Net 3 rounds, and proceed to make the thumb as
directed in the last pattern. When the thumb is nearly long enough, net
1 round twice round the mesh, 2 stitches in each stitch. In the next
round net the 2 stitches as 1, and finish with 5 plain rounds, for the
last of which use a very small mesh. To complete the hand fasten on the
silk at the side of the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side, net the
alternate rounds, and finish the hand like the thumb.


_Honey-comb Mittens._

     Mesh No. 17, foundation 46 or 48 stitches.

Net 3 _rows_. Net 1 row, putting the silk twice round the mesh; 2 rows
once round the mesh; then begin netting in _rounds_. 1st round, for
every stitch put the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd round, (each stitch
once round the mesh,) net the 2nd stitch first half turning it; then net
the 1st stitch plain. Net the 4th stitch half turning it, then net the
3rd plain, and finish the round in the same manner. Every alternate
repetition of the pattern you must plain net 1 stitch before beginning
the pattern, so as to bring the thick stitch over the open one. Net a
plain round, and begin again with the 1st. The same pattern is continued
throughout the mitten, but for brevity the number of rounds only is
given. When 6 rounds are done, net 10 stitches increase 2 in the 11th,
net 3, and increase 2 more in the 4th. Net 2 rounds, and increase again
2 stitches in the stitch which would have been over the 1st stitch in
which you increased, (had you not increased,) net 7 and increase 2 more.
Net 2 rounds, and in the next round increase again 2 stitches on each
side of the thumb. Net 2 rounds, and increase a 4th time; net 2 rounds,
and then net the first and last stitches of the thumb together. Decrease
if necessary, and when the thumb is nearly long enough, finish with
double silk, 1 round twice round the mesh, 1 round once round, 1 round
twice round, and 2 once round the mesh. Fasten on the silk at the bottom
of the thumb, add 1 stitch on each side, and net the alternate rounds
of the pattern until the mitten is long enough to be finished like the
thumb.


_Matrimony Mittens._

The increase and diminution are precisely the same as in the last
mitten; the increase stitches are made in the plain knitted rounds. As
this stitch is given for a purse, it is not necessary to repeat it. The
mitten must be netted on a foundation of 48 or 50 stitches.

     _Note._--It will be observed that the last patterns for mittens,
     begin with _rows_ instead of _rounds_, this is to prevent the
     necessity of untieing the ribbon every time the mitten is taken
     off: a button is fastened to one side of the opening and a loop is
     made on the other.


_Lambs’-wool Mittens._

     This mitten is made open, and when finished is sewn up.

     Begin on a foundation of 53 stitches, and with a mesh a quarter of
     an inch wide.

Net 4 rows. Net 1 row with silk, on a mesh half the size of the 1st. Net
2 rows with lambs’-wool on the 1st mesh. 1 row with silk on the 2nd.
Repeat these rows of lambs’-wool and silk 4 times: then in the middle of
the row, net 13 stitches of wool on the large mesh, and net the same
back again. Net 1 row of silk, 2 of lambs’-wool, 1 of silk, these
stitches form the thumb. Begin again on the hand part of the mitten: net
2 rows of lambs’-wool (leaving out the 13 thumb stitches), 1 row of
silk, 2 rows of lambs’-wool, 1 of silk, 2 of lambs’-wool, and 1 of silk.
All the rows of lambs’-wool are netted on the large mesh; all those of
silk on the small mesh. Sew up the thumb and hand, and run a ribbon in
at the top of the first row of silk.

This mitten may be made of one, two, or three colours.


_Mitten in Round Netting._

     Begin on a round foundation of 44 stitches, with a mesh No. 14.

Pass the needle under the silk every stitch, as directed, in round
netting for a purse, throughout the mitten. Net 4 rounds. 1 round twice
round the mesh. 2 rounds once round the mesh, increase a stitch, taking
care to take the left hand side of the stitch as that by the twist you
give the silk will be nearer the right side of the stitch; net 2
stitches, increasing in the last. Net two rounds. Increase 2 stitches in
the third round, (the increase stitches are one before and one after the
stitches which are over those in which the increase was made last time);
increase in the same way 5 times, netting 2 rounds between each
increase. Increase over the last added stitches 3 times, and net several
rounds until the mitten is long enough for the thumb stitches to be
joined together. Join the first and last stitches over the last added
stitches, and net round, decreasing occasionally to make the thumb fit.
When the thumb is long enough, cut off the silk and fasten it on at the
bottom; increase 4 stitches, (2 on each side) and net round until the
hand part of the mitten is long enough.

If desired, the hand and thumb may be finished with a narrow lace, or a
round of plain netting, 2 stitches in each stitch, which in the next
round are netted as one stitch, on a small mesh.


_Mittens._

     With a leaf wreath round the top.

     Four needles No. 16, and two different coloured silks are required,
     for instance brown and blue.

Cast 30 stitches on each of 3 needles with the brown silk and rib one
round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue silk, knit 4 with the brown, knit 2
stitches bringing the silk forward between each, knit 3 stitches,
repeat these stitches all round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue, with the
brown knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together,
repeat all round and continue these 2 rounds alternately until 5 rounds
of holes appear. Knit a plain round of brown; knit 2 plain rounds of
blue and increase 2 stitches on each needle. Knit 4 blue stitches and 4
brown stitches alternately, round. Knit 1 brown stitch, knit 4 blue, 4
brown; repeat the last 8 stitches, round. Knit 2 brown stitches, 4 blue,
4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 3 brown stitches, 4
blue, 4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 1 round, blue, 1
round, brown, 1 round, blue. Make the other half of the wreath the same
reversed. Knit 2 blue rounds, 1 brown round, in the last 2 rounds
decrease to 28 stitches on each needle. Bring the blue silk forward,
knit 2 stitches taken together, repeat this all round. Knit 1 plain
round. Repeat the last 2 rounds until 18 or 20 rounds of holes appear;
then with a spare needle take off 14 stitches for the thumb; cast 14
stitches on the right hand needle, and continue the pattern as before
until you have 14 rounds of holes above the thumb. Knit the wreath as
before and finish with a brown round.

Take up the 14 stitches for the thumb, knit about 14 rounds of holes,
and finish with a brown round.


_Feather Mits._

     These mits are very nice and warm to draw over long gloves in going
     to evening parties. Four needles, No. 13, and German lambs’-wool
     are required; the wool should be knitted in shades of either half
     or a whole skein of wool.

Cast 38 stitches on one, and 19 on each of the 2 other needles. Knit a
plain round. Bring the wool forward, knit 1 stitch, repeat this twice;
decrease, taking 2 stitches together 3 times; knit 1 stitch, this is the
centre stitch of the pattern, and is always plain knitting; decrease 3
times; increase 3 times; repeat these 19 stitches all round. Plain knit
3 rounds. These 4 rounds repeated form the pattern.


_Cuffs, Peacock Stitch._

     Four needles No. 20, and lace thread or very fine cotton are
     required.

Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles. Purl 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches,
bring the thread forward, knit 8 stitches, bringing the thread forward
between each, knit 2 stitches, repeat these stitches round. 2nd round.
Purl 3 stitches, pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull
the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit plain until within 2
stitches of the purl, knit them taken together, repeat all round. Repeat
this last round until you have only 15 stitches before and after the
purled stitches. Purl 3 stitches pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch,
knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2
stitches, bring the thread forward, and knit 8 stitches bringing the
thread forward between each, knit 1 stitch, knit 2 taken together,
repeat this for the round; then begin again at the 2nd round. When the
cuff is long enough cast off and sew a bit of lace at each edge.


_Netted Cuffs._

     Four skeins of colored lambs’-wool and 6 of white; a steel pin No.
     14, a flat wooden mesh 1/2 an inch wide, and a foundation of 120
     stitches, are required.

Net 2 rows of colored lambs’-wool with the steel pin; 1 row with white
lambs’-wool and the large mesh; then 1 row with the colored, netting 2
white stitches in one, which reduces the stitches to half the number;
net another row of colored wool, 1 of white, 2 of colored, &c., until
there are 7 rows of white, besides the first, with 2 rows of colored
between each. Net 2 rows of colored, 1 of white, netting 2 stitches in
every colored one, and finish with 2 rows of colored.

Sew it up, double it and run in a ribbon. This forms a very warm and
pretty cuff to wear over the sleeve. The white rows are netted on the
wide mesh, the colored on the small mesh.


_Warm Cuffs._

     Two needles are required.

Cast on any number of stitches according to the size of your needles;
knit 12 rows plain; knit 1 row putting the wool twice round the needle;
rib a row, putting the wool twice round the needle; repeat the last 2
rows until you have about a quarter of a yard, and finish by knitting 12
rows as at first.

Sew it up and fold the top and bottom together.


_Muffatees._

     Four needles No. 17, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.

Cast 24 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round, knitting and ribbing
3 alternate stitches varying the color at pleasure: when the muffatee is
about six inches long, begin double knitting[24-*] on coarser needles;
when you have knitted about 2 inches, knit 6 plain rows and cast off;
sew up the part that is in double knitting.

     [24-*] Double knitting. Begin with the wool forward, slip a stitch,
     pass the wool back, knit a stitch, continue to repeat these 2
     stitches. Double knitting cannot be done round.


_Muffatees._

     Two middling sized ivory needles and rather fine wool, the color
     may be varied at pleasure.

Cast on 40 stitches, knit 4 rows; rib 1 row; continue to repeat these
rows, reckoning the cast on row as one; when the muffatee is long
enough cast off and sew it up.

These muffatees are very pretty, made on fine needles with German wool.


_Gentlemen’s Muffatees._

     Two needles No. 14, 4 skeins of colored German lambs’-wool and 4 of
     white.

Cast on 54 stitches; bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, and knit 2
stitches taken together; repeat the same to the end of the row; every
row is the same; knit up 1 skein of colored wool, 2 of white, and finish
the muffatee with 1 skein of colored wool; sew it up.

These muffatees are also very nice for ladies, to be worn outside the
sleeve in very cold weather: they are then knitted with coarse
lambs’-wool, the first part done on large needles, the centre on
smaller, and the remainder on the large needles again.


_Cushion Cover._

     This requires 4 needles No. 16, and moderately fine cotton or
     German lambs’-wool, white or colored, according to fancy.

Cast 100 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 101 on the 3rd; with your
4th needle knit the 2nd stitch, drawing it over the first; knit the 1st
stitch, (which will thus stand 2nd); knit the 4th stitch, then the 3rd,
the 6th, and 5th, and continue the same all round, when you will find an
odd stitch at the end of your needle, slip this stitch on to the next
needle, and continue the pattern as before. You will now find an odd
stitch at the end of each needle, which you must always slip on to the
next needle.

When you have knitted as much as, when laid flat, will make a square,
knit or sew up one end, slip in the cushion, sew up the other end, and
surround it with a cord or fringe.


_Sofa Pillow Cover._

     Four Needles No. 11.

Cast 74 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round with the thread
twice round the needle; in the 2nd round begin by knitting the 2nd
stitch, slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd
stitches, 6th and 5th, and continue the same all round; knit one round
with the thread twice round the needle, and repeat the 2nd round; these
two rounds form the pattern.

When your work is as long as it is wide, (rather more than half a yard)
cast off, and surround it with a cord or fringe.


_Striped Cushion Cover._

Cast 100 stitches on each of 3 needles No. 11; knit the 2nd stitch
slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st, knit the 4th before the 3rd,
the 6th before the 5th, and continue the same all round. Every round is
the same.


_Knitted Mat with Fringe._

     Four needles No. 14, and rather stout lambs’-wool.

Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds; increase by
bringing the wool forward before _every_ stitch every 3rd round, until
you have 16 on each needle; knit 2 rounds; purl 2 rounds; knit 1 round,
increasing (as before) with every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1
round increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1 round
increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 3 rounds; purl 1 round; knit 1 round;
purl 1 round; knit 1 round; purl 1 round; knit 1 round. Take the wool
with which you mean to make your fringe and cut it into lengths (you
will require as many pieces as you have stitches in a round) about 3-1/2
inches long. Fold the two ends of one of the lengths together and loop
in on the needle with which you are about to begin to knit, put the
needle through the 1st stitch, hold the piece of fringe with the third
finger of the left hand, and knit the stitch, by which you fix the bit
of fringe; loop on another piece, place it under the third finger of the
left hand and knit the stitch; continue the same all round; in the next
round knit each piece of fringe with the adjoining stitch, all round,
and cast off.

Turn to the back of your mat and pick up the stitches of the round
before that in which you looped on the fringe; knit 1 round, purl 1
round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round, knit 1 round, and cast off.

Cut a round piece of card the size of the mat, cover it with green baize
or colored paper, and sew the edge which is under the fringe firmly to
the edge of the card all round.


_Netted Mat._

     To put between plates.

This mat is netted round. The mesh should be about a 1/4 of an inch
wide. Net 60 stitches putting the cotton twice round the mesh; net 24
rounds with the cotton once round the mesh, then 1 round twice round the
mesh; thread the stitches of this and the first round together, and tie
it tight, (this is the centre).

Thread the needle with double cotton; and with a much wider mesh net a
round, passing the needle through by the knots of the 13th round for a
fringe. The color can be varied at pleasure.


_Knitted Vase Mat._

     Two needles No. 14.

This mat is to be knitted in two colors, (violet and maize are very
pretty). Cast on 3 stitches, increase 2 every row until you have 15;
knit 2 rows plain, and decrease 1 stitch in every other row, to a
point. Knit 3 pieces of each color, sew them together with the points in
the centre, and surround the mat with a fringe. (No. 6 of the former
vol.)


_Table Mats._

These mats are knitted in 6 pieces, 2 side pieces and 4 end pieces.

Side piece. Cast on 20 stitches, knit 18, turn your work, slip 1 of the
2 stitches on the right-hand needle upon the other needle, pass the
cotton back, and replace the stitch as it was before, (this must be
repeated every time you return without knitting the whole row, to
prevent a hole); knit the 18 stitches back again; in the next row knit
16 and return, and continue to knit 2 stitches less each time until you
knit only 2; then knit 4, and continue to add 2 to the number each turn,
until you knit 18 and back again; cast off.

End piece. Cast on 20 stitches; knit 3 stitches, increase 1, knit to
within 2 of the end and return; knit 3, increase 1, knit to within 4 of
the end and return; continue to increase in every 4th stitch and to
leave 2 more at the end each turn until you have 32 stitches left behind
and only 4 knitted; then continue to knit 2 more stitches each time,
without increasing any more until only 2 are left behind; cast off.

Join these pieces together with the points meeting in the centre, and
surround the mat with a fringe. The size may be altered by varying the
size of the needles, and round mats may be made with 6 of the side
pieces.


_Table Mat._

     In one piece.

Cast on 3 stitches, and increase 2 in every row until you have 21;
increase 2 stitches in every 4th row until you have 29 stitches;
increase 1 stitch in every 4th row until you have 32 stitches; knit 8
rows; this makes half the mat. Knit the other half to correspond,
decreasing where you before increased. Surround it with a fringe. The
size can be altered by varying the size of the pins.


_Napkin Ring._

     This ring must be made of string, or stout cord, and with rather
     fine pins.

Cast 12 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 4 rounds; rib 4 rounds; knit
3 rounds, and cast off rather tight.


_A Pence Purse, or Jug._

     Five needles No. 17, and 2 skeins of German lambs’-wool of
     different colors, are required.

Begin with the handle: cast on 4 stitches and knit backwards and
forwards, in common knitting, until it is an inch and a half long; loop
6 stitches on the same needle, 26 on the second, and 10 on the third,
(the 5th needle is not required yet). Knit off the 1st needle, knitting
2 and ribbing 2 stitches alternately; with the 2nd needle rib 2, knit 2,
rib 2, pass the wool back, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped
stitch over the knitted one, knit the succeeding stitches plain until
within 7 of the end; then knit 2 taken together, knit 1, rib 2, knit 2;
on the next needle rib 2 and knit 2 alternately; continue to repeat this
round until you have only 12 stitches on the 2nd needle, and you will
find you have made the spout. Knit 3 rounds, ribbing 2 and knitting 2
alternately; take the other color and knit 5 rounds in the same manner,
then 3 rounds with the first color, 5 with the second; 1 round of plain
knitting with the first color, 3 rounds ribbed, 1 plain round making a
stitch between every 2 stitches; 3 rounds ribbed with the second color,
knit a plain round; in the next 2 rounds, bring the wool forward and
knit 2 stitches together. With the first color, knit 1 plain round and
3 ribbed; repeat the last 7 rounds. Now divide the stitches on 4
needles, (there should be 12 on each,) begin plain knitting, decreasing
1 stitch on each needle; continue the same for 5 rounds, decreasing
alternately at the beginning, middle, and end of each needle; knit 3
rounds, decreasing as you think necessary to keep it a good round shape;
divide the stitches on 3 needles, knit a plain round, rib 3 rounds
without decreasing. Begin again to decrease, and continue to do so,
until you have only 3 stitches on each needle; fasten off with a worsted
needle, and sew down the handle.


_Bouquetier._ No. 1.

     You will require 5 needles No. 14, and two knots of silver twist.

Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round; in the second round
knit and rib 3 stitches alternately, and continue the same for 44 or 48
rounds. Plain knit 1 round, bring the thread forward, (thus increasing
by a loop stitch), knit 3 stitches; bring the thread forward, knit 3;
and continue the same all round. Knit 2 plain rounds. In the next round
bring the thread forward at the beginning and in the middle of each
needle, thus increasing 6 stitches in the round. Knit 2 rounds plain,
continue to increase in the same manner (6 stitches every 3rd round)
until you have 16 stitches on each needle. Knit 8 stitches, with the 5th
needle rib the same stitches back again, and continue to knit and rib
alternate _rows_, decreasing to a point by taking 2 stitches together in
the centre of 2 rows out of 3. Finish the other 5 leaves in the same
manner.


_Bouquetier._ No. 2.

     Four needles No. 14.

Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit and rib 3 stitches
alternately for 48 rounds. Then knit and rib alternate _rounds_,
increasing 2 stitches every round where it will be least observed, until
you have 40 stitches in the round; turn and knit back again; knit
backwards and forwards, decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning and 1
stitch at the end of every row, (for you will perceive those which were
rounds have become rows) until the bouquetier ends in a point.


_Tidy Basket._

     Seven of each needles, No. 16, 14, and 12.

Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, No. 16; knit round, increasing 4
stitches in each round, until you have 9 stitches on each needle; divide
your stitches on 6 needles, and purl 3 rounds; knit 3 rounds, increasing
3 times in each of the 2 first rounds, and 6 times in the third.
Alternately knit and purl 2 stitches for 3 rounds; repeat the same 3
rounds with the larger needles, No. 14; and 3 rounds more with the
largest, No. 12. Knit 1 round plain, and cast off 20 stitches; knit 4
stitches, cast off another 20, and knit the remaining 4 for the handle,
until it is nearly 3 inches long; then knit it to the 4 stitches which
were left on the opposite side of the basket.

Cover a round bit of card with paper, the color of the basket, and
fasten it to the bottom on the inside.


_Ladder Stitch Bag._

     Two needles No. 12.

Cast on 50 stitches. Second row, knit and rib 2 stitches alternately;
and in the 3rd row, knit and rib the same stitches: in the 2 following
rows reverse the knitting and ribbing; continue this pattern for 12
rows, and also for 10 stitches at the beginning and end of each row, to
form a border all round. Plain knit 1 row (between the borders). In the
next row, (after the 10 stitches) knit the 2nd stitch, pulling it over
the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th; continue the
same to the end of the row: every row is alike. Continue this pattern
until the bag is nearly long enough. Add a border as at first, and make
the other side to correspond. Knit or sew up the sides, and run a ribbon
round the top.


_Crossed Stitch Bag._

     Two needles No. 12.

Cast on 50 stitches. Knit one row with the cotton twice round the
needle, and in the next row, knit the 2nd stitch, slipping it over the
1st; knit the 1st, then the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th, and continue the
same to the end of the row. Begin again at the row twice round the
needle.

When you have knitted enough for the bag, cast off, and sew up the
sides.


_Netted Bag._

     To hold the ball when knitting.

These bags are plain netted, and the size of the foundation must of
course vary according to the size you wish to have your bag. They are
very pretty netted with very narrow ribbon in different colors. The mesh
should be rather wide; when the bag is half deep enough, net in a ring,
(either brass or whalebone), then net on until the bag is sufficiently
long.


_Fringe._

Cast on 12 stitches; knit 6 stitches plain, bring the wool forward, knit
2 stitches taken together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken
together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together. 2nd row, begin with
the wool forward, knit 2 stitches together, repeat this twice and knit
the remaining 6 plain; continue these 2 rows until the fringe is the
length required, then cast off the 6 stitches for the head and unravel
the 6 stitches of plain knitting.


_Netted Fringe._

     To go round a bag.

Net 300 stitches on a mesh 1/2 an inch wide. Take a smaller mesh, (No.
15,) and net a row taking 3 stitches in 1. Net a plain row. Net a row,
putting the silk twice round the mesh. Net 3 rows once round the mesh.
Take a rather larger mesh and net one row, which finishes the fringe.
_Cut_ it off of the foundation.


_Scarf Fringe._

     To be knitted in coarse gold colored flox silk.

Cast on 12 stitches. 1st row, bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches
taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2
taken together, knit 6 stitches. 2nd row, knit 8 stitches, bring the
silk forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 2 stitches, repeat these 2
rows until you have a sufficient length for the end of a scarf, cast off
6 stitches, and unravel those that were plain knitted.


_Fringe._

Cast on 9 stitches; slip 1 stitch, knit 2, bring the cotton forward and
knit 2 taken together, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 2 taken
together, knit the last. Every row is alike. When you have done a
sufficient length cast off 5 stitches, and leave 4 to unravel for the
fringe.


_Rug Fringe._

Two knitting needles No. 11, a ball of coarse knitting cotton, and some
yarn or coarse wool are required. Cut the yarn into lengths of about two
inches.

Cast on 30 stitches with the cotton, knit 2 stitches, take 2 bits of
yarn, fold the ends together and loop them towards you, on your right
hand needle, knit a stitch; loop on the yarn after every stitch until
within 2 stitches of the end of the row, which knit. The back row is
plain knitting, being careful to knit the yarn with the stitch. Repeat
these two rows.


_Carriage Rug._

     Two needles No. 12, a ball of coarse cotton or fine string, and
     some coarse _yarn_ cut into lengths of about two inches.

With the ball cast on 40 stitches, and knit 1 row. Knit 1 stitch, place
1 piece of the yarn between the needles so that one end be on each side;
knit 1 stitch, pass the end of the yarn which is towards you between the
needles, knit 1 stitch, repeat the same to within 2 stitches of the end
and knit them plain; knit 1 plain row. 3rd row, knit 2 stitches before
you put on the yarn, which will leave you 1 stitch at the end of the
row; this altering the yarn stitch makes the mat look thicker. When the
strip is as long as you wish the rug to be, cast off and begin another.
When the strips are sewed together and lined, this makes a very warm
mat.


_Striped Purse._

     Mesh No. 17; foundation 72 stitches wide.

Net 4 plain rows; net 1 row putting the silk twice round the mesh; in
the next row net the 2nd stitch first, (in netting it half turn it),
then net the 1st in the same way; repeat these stitches to the end of
the row. Net 3 plain rows. Net 1 row putting the silk twice round the
mesh, then a row netting the 2nd stitch first, and so on until the purse
is wide enough.

N.B. This purse is very pretty with only 2 small rows instead of 4, and
netted in shades of different colors.


_Chequered Purse._

     Mesh No. 17, and as many needles as you wish to have squares.

Net 6 stitches in pink silk backwards and forwards for 12 rows; net 6
stitches of brown silk, beginning at the distance of 6 stitches from the
pink; pass the brown silk through the loop of the pink, and when the
rows form alternate squares of pink and brown, begin with the pink over
the brown, and the brown over the pink.


_Purse in Round Netting._

     Mesh No. 14; a foundation 72 stitches wide.

Every row is alike. After the needle has been drawn through the stitch
(as in common netting), before pulling the stitch tight, it is passed
under that part of the silk which goes through the stitch.


_Matrimony.--For a Purse._

     Mesh No. 15, and a foundation of 60 or 70 stitches.

Net 1 row. 2nd row, net the 2nd stitch first then net the first, passing
the needle through the second as well as the first, to join them
together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 3rd row, plain
netting. 4th row, net a stitch, miss a stitch, net the next, then net
the stitch you missed, passing the needle through the last stitch, (it
will be seen that the object in netting a stitch before beginning the
pattern is to prevent the joined stitches being over each other); repeat
the 2 last stitches to the end of the row, netting the last stitch.


_Another._

Begin on a foundation of 60 stitches, with a mesh No. 15. Net a row,
passing the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd row, (once round the mesh,)
net the 2nd stitch first, half turning it, then net the other plain, net
the 4th, half turning it, then the 3rd plain, repeat these stitches
until the row is finished. Begin again with the 1st row.


_Annet Purse._

     Mesh No. 17, and foundation of 60 stitches.

Net the 1st row, passing the silk twice round the mesh every stitch. 2nd
row, pull the 1st stitch _through_ the 2nd from the back, net it; pull
the 2nd stitch through the _middle_ of the 1st, (taking care not to
twist it), net it; pull the 3rd through the 4th, net it; pull the 4th
through the _middle_ of the 3rd, net it; repeat these stitches to the
end of the row. Begin again with the 1st row, netting 1 stitch plain
before beginning the pattern.


_Honey-comb Purse._

On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 plain row. 2nd row, pass the 2nd
stitch through the 1st, net it, (in netting it give it a twist so as to
half turn it); net the 1st; pass the 4th through the 3rd (half turning
it) and net it; net the 3rd; repeat these stitches to the end of the
row. Begin again with the first row. Next row net the 1st stitch plain
before beginning the pattern.


_Another Honey-comb._

On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 row passing the silk twice round
the mesh. 2nd row; put the side of the 2nd stitch which is nearest the
1st over it, draw it quite through so as to twist the 2 stitches
together, half turn and net it, net the first; repeat these stitches to
the end of the row. Next row begin again.


_Netted Purse._

     In two colors.

Fill 2 needles with 2 colors which contrast well. The purse should be 80
or 90 stitches wide. Fasten on both needles together and net alternate
stitches with each, reversing the colors every row. Except in this
change of color, every row is the same.


_Single Diamond Netting._

     On a round foundation with mesh No. 18; 80 stitches will make a
     purse four inches wide.

Net 1st stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 2nd stitch once
round, 3rd stitch twice round, 4th stitch once round, and so on
alternately. When the round is finished, (it will finish by a stitch
once round the mesh,) draw out the mesh, put it in one of the long
stitches and net the round; every other stitch will be a loop stitch;
the round finishes with a loop stitch. Continue these alternate rounds
until the purse is long enough for the opening to be begun; then instead
of netting _round_ the purse, turn back and net from side to side. The
1st stitch in the 1st _row_ is once _round_ the mesh, the 2nd twice, the
3rd once, the 4th twice, 5th once, &c. In the 2nd row, the first stitch
has the silk passed twice round the mesh; it is then taken at its full
length and the row continued, each alternate stitch being a loop stitch.
When the slit is long enough, (after either 14 or 16 rows,) begin to net
round again. If after 14 rows, the 1st stitch in beginning to net round
the purse will be once round the mesh.


_Treble Diamond Netting._

     On a round foundation of 40 stitches, and with a mesh No. 17 or 18.

Net 2 rounds plain. Begin the next round by putting the silk twice
round the mesh for the 1st stitch, net 3 stitches, with the silk once
round the mesh; repeat these 4 stitches until the round is completed.
Take out the mesh and put it in again at the full length of one of the
long stitches; net the following stitch, (which will be a long one), net
the next a loop stitch, then net the 2 next close to the mesh and slip
them off: begin again with netting the long stitch, the loop stitch, the
2 close to the mesh, slip them off; repeat these 4 stitches to the end
of the round, finishing of course with 2 stitches close to the mesh.
Begin the next round with 2 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch, 1
stitch close to the mesh, (this stitch must always be slipped off the
mesh before netting the next); repeat these stitches to the end of the
round. Next round net 3 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch;
repeat these stitches to the end of the round. Begin again with the 1st
round, viz.--1 stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 3 with the
silk once round, and proceed as directed until the purse is long enough
to begin the opening, which should be begun in a round after that in
which you put the silk twice round the mesh for 1 stitch, and once round
it for 3. To make the opening: for the 1st stitch pass the silk twice
round the mesh, take it out and put it in again at the full length of
the 1st stitch, net a stitch, net a loop stitch, net 2 close to the
mesh, slip them off, &c. as directed before. When the slit is long
enough, begin to net in _rounds_ instead of _rows_, taking care to make
the diamond stitches match.


_Knitted Purse._

     Four needles are required.

Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 5. 1st round; bring
the silk forward knit 1 stitch, bring the silk forward slip 1 stitch,
knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 taken
together, repeat this all round. 2nd round; plain knitting. 3rd round,
is the same as the 1st. 4th round plain knitting. 5th round; bring the
silk forward, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward slip a stitch,
knit 2 taken together pull the slipped stitch over, repeat the same all
round. 6th round plain knitting. Begin again.


_Stitches for Purses._ No. 1.

     Four needles are required.

Cast 30 stitches on each of three needles. Knit a plain round. In
beginning the next round, knit the 2nd stitch (instead of the first,)
knit the first; knit the 4th, then the 3rd, the 6th and 5th, and
continue the same until the purse is long enough.


No. 2.

     With 2 needles.

Cast on 60 or 80 stitches; bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit
2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted ones; repeat
the same to the end of the row. Every row is alike.


No. 3.

     With 2 needles.

Cast on any number of stitches which will divide by 3; bring the silk
forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over
the 2 knitted; bring the silk forward slip a stitch, &c. to the end of
the row. Knit a plain row and begin again.


No. 4.

     On 2 needles.

Bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 and pass the slipped
stitch over the 2 which are knitted, repeat the same to the end of the
row; knit a plain row. These 2 rows form the pattern, but in the 3rd
row you must commence by knitting 2 stitches before beginning the
pattern, in order that the 1st of the 2 knitted stitches may come over
the hole, and for the same purpose you must begin the 6th row by
knitting 1 stitch.

This purse is very pretty knitted in 2 colors, alternately 2 rows of
each.


No. 5.

     Two needles.

Cast on the desired number of stitches. Knit 1 row taking 2 stitches
together. 2nd row, turn the thread round the needle to make a stitch,
rib a stitch, make a stitch as before, rib a stitch, &c. to the end of
the row. 3rd row, plain knitting; in the 4th row, which is ribbed when
you come to the hole, knit the stitch belonging to this and that of the
last row together, repeat the same with every hole. Begin again at the
1st row.


No. 6.

     Two needles.

Cast on 90 stitches, slip the 1st stitch and finish the row taking 2
stitches together every time, knit the last stitch. 2nd row, slip the
1st stitch, and with the thread twice round the needle knit to the last
stitch, which is to be knitted plain. 3rd row, slip the 1st stitch, pick
up the thread which is across the hole with the left hand needle and
knit it with the next stitch (which is taken at full length) after
twinging the thread forward. Bring the thread forward again, pick up the
thread which is across the hole and knit it with the next stitch,
continue the same to the last stitch which is knitted. 4th row, slip the
1st stitch, knit the 2nd, pick up the thread which is across the hole
and knit it with the stitch which is over the hole, continue the same to
the end of the row. Begin again at the 1st row.


No. 7.

Knit the 1st row (except the 1st and last stitches which are knitted
plain in every row) taking 2 stitches together. Knit a plain row. 3rd
row, slip a stitch, bring the silk forward, pick up the thread which is
across the hole, taking care not to twist it, and knit it with the next
stitch, continue the same to the end of the row; the 4th row is plain
knitting. Begin again at the 1st row.


_Bead Netting._

Net a plain row on a foundation the desired length. 2nd row, net to
where you wish to place a bead, slip a bead close up to the last knot
and net a stitch; repeat the same wherever you wish to place a bead, and
the next row will fix these in their places.


_Bead Netting_,

     With the bead on the knot.

Thread a bead needle with some of your netting silk; net a plain row;
net to where you wish to place a bead, thread 1 bead and slip it close
to the mesh, net the next stitch, slip the bead under the mesh close up
to the last knot, and pass your needle and netting silk through the
bead, which fixes it on the knot; repeat the same wherever you wish to
place a bead. This netting may be done either round or open.


_Dice Knitting._

     For a Purse.

This purse is knitted in 2 colors, it must be done with very fine
needles and 11 little balls of fine knitting silk.

Cast on 8 stitches of the 1st color and 8 of the 2nd alternately until
you have 80 stitches, using a new ball for each change of color, 2nd
row, knit the 8 stitches of the 1st color, pass _that_ silk round the
silk of the 2nd color and bring it forward; with the 2nd colored silk
knit the 8 stitches of the 2nd color, pass it round the next silk and
bring it forward; continue the same to the end of the row. Knit on in
the same manner for 14 rows, then to change the color take another ball
of your 2nd color and join it on at the beginning of your row, knit with
the 2nd color 1 stitch, pass the 1st color forward, knit 1 stitch with
the 2nd color, pass the 1st back, knit 1 with the 2nd, pass the 1st
forward, and the same for the 8 stitches. You will now find that you
have 2 threads of the 2nd color and 1 of the 1st together, pass 1 thread
of the 2nd color round the others and bring it forward, knit 1 stitch
with the 1st color, bring forward the other thread of the 2nd color,
knit 1 stitch with the 1st, pass the 2nd back, knit 1 with the 1st, and
continue the same for the rest of the 8 stitches, when you will find 2
threads of the 1st color, and 1 of the 2nd together; twist and bring
forward 1 thread of the 1st color, and knit the others as you did those
of the 2nd color in the last square. Finish the row in this manner, then
knit as at first until another row of squares is completed; reverse the
color again.

This is a nice pattern for a carriage mat done with very large needles
and stout wool, and also for many other things, as from being neat on
both sides it does not require lining.


_Open Fan for a Quilt._

     Fine cotton and needles No. 17 or 18.

Cast on 62 stitches. Knit 3 rows. In the next row slip a stitch, knit 5,
decrease by knitting 2 together, knit until only 8 are left on the left
hand needle, knit 2 taken together, knit the rest, (6 on each side are
_always_ knitted plain for the border.) Knit a plain row, repeat these
2 last rows, (decreasing 2 stitches in every other row) twice. Slip a
stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward and purl to the border
stitches, decreasing at the beginning and end of the purled stitches. A
plain row. Slip a stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward, decrease,
purl the rest, decreasing again before the border stitches. A plain row.
Slip a stitch, knit 5, decrease, knit the rest, decreasing before the
border stitches. Slip 1, knit 5, purl to the border stitches. Slip 1,
knit 5, decrease, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the
slipped stitch over the knitted one, bring the cotton forward, slip 1,
knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, repeat these
stitches, decrease, knit to the border. Slip a stitch, knit 5, purl the
rest, knit the border stitches. A plain row, decreasing as before. The
last 10 rows to be repeated, decreasing 2 stitches every other row until
14 stitches are left; after this every row is plain knitting, still
decreasing every other row until only 2 stitches are left, knit them; in
the next row knit them together, and draw the cotton through the last
stitch.


_Gauffre Fans for a Quilt._

Cast on 72 stitches. Knit 3 rows; the first stitch of every row is
_slipped_ throughout the pattern. In the 4th row knit 4 stitches,
counting the slipped stitch as one, decrease with the 5th, knit 60,
decrease, knit the remaining 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, knit
58, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, bring the
cotton forward, purl 56, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4,
decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, repeat the last 6 stitches seven
times, slip 2, knit 2, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 2, slip 2,[62-*]
purl 4, slip 2 and purl 4, seven times, slip 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 4,
decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2 and knit 4, seven times, knit
1, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c.
ending, the row with 1 purled stitch and 5 knitted. Knit 4, decrease 1,
slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decrease 1, and knit the 4 last stitches. A
plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 48, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row.
Knit 4, decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, &c. ending the row with
knitting 1 stitch, decreasing 1 and knitting 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2,
purl 4, &c. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5,
bring the cotton forward, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5, slip 2,
decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decreasing 1 stitch in
the last 4, slip 2, knit 5. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 40,
decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, and
so on to the end. It will be seen that care is taken to place the 2
middle stitches of the 4 over the stitches which were slipped in the
last pattern; when the decrease comes on the slipped stitch it is made
_not_ on that but in the following 4. Continue to decrease 2 in every
other row. When only 10 stitches are left, every row is plain knitting,
decreasing as before every other row until you have only 2 stitches,
knit them together and pass the cotton through the last stitch.

     [62-*] In rows like this always keep the cotton before in slipping
     a stitch.


_Ribbed Squares._

     For a Quilt.

Cast on 2 stitches; knit them. 3rd row, knit 1 stitch, increase a stitch
at the back of the first stitch, knit the 2nd and increase again. 4th
row, plain knitting. 5th row, knit 2, stitches, increase 1 in the 2nd,
increase again in the 3rd, knit the 4th. 6th row, plain knitting. 7th
row, knit 2 stitches, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 2. 8th row,
knit 3, purl 2, knit 3. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3.
Knit 4, purl 2, knit 4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1,
increase 1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2,
purl 2, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3. Knit 4, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit
4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 1, increase
1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1,
purl 2, knit 2, &c. increasing before the last 3. Knit 3, purl 1, knit
2, purl 2, &c. Continue to increase 2 stitches every other row until
there are 72, knitting and purling the stitches so as to make them lay
in ribs; decrease as you increased, ending with 2 stitches, knit them
together.


_Open work Fan._

     For a Quilt.

Cast on 74 stitches. Knit 6 rows. The first stitch in every row is
always slipped. Knit 2 stitches, decrease 1, bring the cotton forward
slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted, bring
the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over
the knitted; repeat these stitches until only 4 are left on the left
hand needle, decrease 1 and knit the 2 last. Knit 3 stitches, purl 66,
knit the 3 last. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit 1, bring the cotton forward,
slip a stitch, knit 2, and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted,
repeat these stitches until only 4 stitches are left on the needle,
decrease, and knit 2. Knit 3, purl 64, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit
2, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped
stitch over those which are knitted; repeat these stitches, as before,
decrease and knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 62, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease
1, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped
over the knitted stitches, repeat these 3 stitches, bringing the cotton
forward _before_ slipping the 1st; when only 4 are left decrease, and
knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 60, knit 3. Repeat these alternate rows,
decreasing 2 stitches every other row (taking care that the _first_
slipped stitch is immediately before the stitch which is over the hole)
until only 6 stitches are left. Knit every row plain decreasing as
before until only 2 stitches are left, knit them together and pass the
cotton through the remaining stitch.


_An open Border._

Any number of stitches may be set up, that will divide by 3. Slip the
1st stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit a stitch,
pull the 2nd slipped stitch over the 3rd stitch; repeat these 3 stitches
to the end of the row. 2nd row, plain knitting. 3rd row ribbed. Then
begin with the first row again.

A few plain knitted stitches for a border are a great improvement.


_Another Border._

Cast on any even number of stitches. Rib _each_ row with the exception
of 3 stitches on each side for the border, which are knitted plain. When
you have 4 ribs on the right side, knit a plain row. Knit the 3 border
stitches, leave the cotton on the outside of the needle and rib 2
stitches taken together, this makes a loop stitch; pass the cotton back
and repeat these 2 stitches until you come to the border. The next row
is plain knitting. Then rib again backwards and forwards until you come
to the row before the holes, which is again to be plain knitting. To be
sure that your pattern is right you must be able to count 7 ridges on
the wrong side, and 4 on the right.


_A Last Border._

For a Quilt.

     Two needles No. 16, and medium sized cotton.

Cast on 101 stitches (or any uneven number). 1st row, knit the second
stitch first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and
3rd, 6th and 5th, and repeat the same until you come to the last, which
knit. 2nd row, purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you
were going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the
right hand and purl it. Repeat the same to the last stitch, which is to
be purled. Begin again at the 1st row.


_Grecian Border._

     Two needles No. 14, and coarse cotton.

Cast on 28 stitches. 1st row, rib 4, knit 12, rib 4, knit 4, rib 4. 2nd
row, all purled. 3rd row is the same as the 1st. 4th row, purl. 5th row,
the same as the 1st. 6th row, purl. 7th row, same as the 1st. 8th row,
purled. 9th row, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12, knit 4, purl 4. The back rows
are all purled. 11th, 13th, and 15th like the 9th. 17th, 19th, 21st, and
23rd rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 12, purl 4. 25th 27th 29th and
31st rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12. 33rd 35th 37th and
39th rows, purl 4, knit 20, purl 4. 41st, 43rd, 45th and 47th rows, purl
12, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, and purl 4. Begin again with the 1st row.


_Diamond Knitting._

     For a Quilt Border.

Cast on 57 stitches, 10 on each side are for the border, and are always
plain knitting. Knit the border, knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton
forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it,
knit 7, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, and repeat from
the border: your number of stitches should always be the same. Back row,
knit the border stitches, and rib the rest; _every_ back row is the
same. Knit to where you decreased last, bring the cotton forward, slip 1
stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 5 stitches,
decrease by taking 2 stitches in 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 3,
repeat the last 12 stitches to the border. Back row. You are to continue
increasing and decreasing in the same manner until you have only 3
stitches between the increases, then decrease at the sides of the
diamond which you have made by increasing, and increase on each side
before and after the decrease. You will now have enough of the pattern
done to see how to proceed.

Observe that when you have only 3 stitches at the top of the diamond you
have been decreasing, and the back row is done, you begin to decrease
the other diamond. Also, that after the 1st diamond is done, your
greatest number of plain stitches between the decrease will be 5.


_Border for a Table Cover._

Cast on 90 stitches. Knit the 1st stitch, bring the thread forward, slip
a stitch, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward, slip a
stitch, &c. to the end of the row, where you will find but 1 stitch to
knit after the last slipped stitch. Continue the pattern (observing to
begin every row with one plain knitted stitch) until you have enough in
length, then cast off.

This border in crimson cotton or German lambs’-wool, is a nice finish to
a dark cloth cover.


_Border and Fringe._

     In 2 colors; for a Table cover or Shawl.

Cast on 28 stitches with the first color. Knit 2 stitches with the 2nd
color, knit 2 stitches with the 1st color, 2 with the 2nd, 2 with the
1st, and continue the same to the end of the row, which will be 2
stitches of the 1st color. Begin the next row by knitting 2 stitches of
the 1st color, pass the thread forward, place it under the thumb of the
left hand, pass the 2nd color back and knit 2 stitches, continue the
same to the end of the row, and then begin again at the 2nd row only
observing to knit the 2nd color over the 1st and the 1st over the 2nd.
After 2 more rows, reverse the colors again.

When you have a sufficient length cast off 20 stitches and unravel 8 for
the Fringe.


_Scarf for the Throat._

     It will require 2 needles No. 12, and Scarlet German Lambs’-wool.

Cast on 86 stitches; knit and rib 4 stitches alternately, but as 86
cannot divide by 4, you must knit 5 instead in two places in the course
of the row. After 4 rows in this manner reverse the knitting and ribbing
for 4 rows; continue this pattern for about a quarter of a yard, (and
also for 12 stitches at each end of every succeeding row) and commence
the second pattern between the 12 border stitches. 1st row; knit 2
stitches taken together, plain knit 8 stitches, rib 3; repeat the same
until you come to the 12 stitches of the border. 2nd row; (after the
border) rib 8 stitches, bring the wool forward, give it a twist round
the needle (to increase 1 stitch) and rib 1 stitch, knit 3, repeat this
to the border. 3rd row; knit 2 stitches, knit 2 taken together, knit 6,
rib 3, &c. 4th row; rib 6 stitches, increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. 5th
row; knit 4, take 2 together, knit 4, rib 3, &c. 6th row; rib 4,
increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 7th row; knit 6, take 2 together, rib 3,
&c. 8th row; rib 2, increase 1, rib 7, knit 3, &c. 9th row; knit 8, knit
2 together, rib 3, &c. 10th row; rib 1, increase 1, rib 8, knit 3, &c.
11th row; knit 6, knit 2 taken together, knit 2, rib 3, &c. 12th row;
rib 3, increase 1, rib 6, knit 3, &c. 13th row; knit 4, knit 2 together,
knit 4, rib 3, &c. 14th row; rib 4, increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 15th
row; knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 6, rib 3, &c. 16th row; rib 6,
increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. Begin again at the 1st row of the second
pattern, and repeat the pattern until the scarf is nearly long enough,
then finish with the border as at first. Sew the undermentioned edge to
the sides and a piece of Scarf Fringe to the ends.


_Scarf Edge._

     Two needles and gold colored flox silk.

Cast on 6 stitches. 1st row; bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches
taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 taken
together. 2nd row; knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2
taken together, knit 2 stitches.

A repetition of these 2 rows forms the pattern.


_Scarf._

     Two needles No. 7.

Cast on 80 stitches; pass the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit a
stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 1 stitch, rib
1 stitch, continue this to the end of the row; every row is the same.

This scarf takes about 2-1/2 ounces of German lambs’-wool; it requires a
wide fringe at the end and is very pretty if knitted with shaded ends,
which are done by using successively 2 skeins of 5 or 6 shades of the
desired color, beginning with the darkest.


_Netted Scarf._

     On a foundation of 54 stitches.

Net successively 6 rows of the following colors; waterloo blue, scarlet,
amber, blue, yellow, scarlet, dark blue, amber, scarlet, light blue,
amber, and scarlet.


_Porcupine Boa._

     Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.

Cast 36 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit 4 stitches, bring the wool
forward, knit a stitch--this is the centre stitch of the pattern--bring
the wool forward, knit 4 stitches, slip a stitch taking it under, knit 2
taken together, pull the slipped stitch over it, then begin knitting the
4 stitches, &c. It is better at the end of each needle to knit 1 stitch
off the next one, as it prepares for the next round; continue this for
6 rounds, increasing _before_ and _after_ every centre stitch, and
knitting to within 1 of where you decreased, which stitch slip, knit the
next 2 together, and pull the slipped stitch over it. Knit 3 plain
rounds. Knit to within 1 stitch of the centre stitch, slip it; knit 2
together, these 6 rounds increase each side of the stitch with which you
decreased in the last pattern, which makes that the centre stitch this
time.

Your number should always be the same as you began with: it is easy to
count the number of rounds you have done, at the place where you
decrease.

This boa is knitted with the wrong side outwards. When finished, fill it
with cotton wool and put strings to it.


_Leggings._

     Two ivory needles and rather fine lambs’-wool are required.

Cast on 44 stitches, knit 7 rows, then knit 2 inches, knitting and
ribbing 2 stitches alternately; knit 8 rows, continue plain knitting and
increase at the beginning and ending of every 4th row; when you have 60
stitches knit 4 rows, then decrease in the same proportion as you
increased until you have but 52 stitches; knit 6 rows, and finish to
match the top. Sew them up.


_Waistcoat._

     Large Size.

Cast on 68 stitches, knit 38 rows; cast on 14 stitches, knit 26 rows,
cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 26, knit 68 rows, cast off 26
stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 26 rows, cast off 14
stitches, knit 38 rows.

     The Sleeve.

Cast on 45 stitches, knit 90 rows, decrease 1 in each row, which leaves
a narrow bit to tack to the shoulder strap, and leaves the sleeve open
under the arm.


_Knitted Waistcoat._

Cast on 54 stitches; knit 38 rows, cast on 14 stitches, knit 14 rows;
cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows. Cast on 26 stitches, knit 66 rows,
cast off 26 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 14 rows,
cast off 14 stitches, and knit 38 rows.

     Sleeves.

Cast on 43 stitches, add 1 stitch each row until there are 60, knit 9
rows. Decrease 1 stitch in each row for 8 rows, then 3 in each row for
19.


_Warm Tippet._

     Two needles, No. 11.

Cast on 60 stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 2
taken together, and continue to knit in the same manner for 10 rows,
then knit (still observing the same stitch) 6 stitches, (2 repetitions
of the pattern), and back; knit 12 stitches and back; 18 and back; and
knit backwards and forwards in this manner advancing 6 stitches farther
each time until you have but 6 stitches left behind, then knit fewer
stitches by 6 than in the last row, and knit backwards and forwards
receding 6 stitches each time until you knit only 6 and return: you have
now completed the first of the gussets which shape the tippet. Knit 6
stitches, bring the thread forward as if to continue the pattern, pick
up a stitch between the stitches and purl it, bring the thread forward,
slip a stitch and knit 2 together; continue the same stitch to the end
of the row without any more increase. In the next row knit 2 stitches
in the increased stitch, and in the following row, when you come to the
increased stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 1
(instead of 2,) you have thus added 1 stripe to your row; knit 4 rows,
and in the next row begin to add another stripe to your row within the
first 6 stitches; by the time this stripe is made, you will have knitted
10 entire rows. Knit 6 stitches and return, and knit as before (for the
gusset) until you come to the row in which you knit to within 6 of the
end, then knit a smaller number each time until you knit only 6 stitches
and return. Knit a whole row, increasing after the 6th stitch, and add 2
stripes to the row, (as described in the 48th row.) Knit in the gusset
again, and then in 10 whole rows add 2 stripes as before; knit the
gusset, (which of course increases in size with the increased number of
stitches.) Add 2 stripes. Knit a gusset. Knit 6 stitches, pass the
thread forward, slip 1 stitch, take 2 stitches upon another needle, slip
another stitch, and, passing the 2 stitches, knit the 4 stitches
together, bring the thread forward and go on. In the next row, when you
come to where you have decreased, it will be necessary to knit 3
stitches together instead of 2. Decrease in the same manner twice in the
10 complete rows. Knit in a gusset. Decrease 4 times in the 10 whole
rows. Knit a gusset. Knit 20 whole rows. This completes half of the
cape; the other half must be knitted to correspond, only that you must
increase where before you decreased, and decrease where you increased.


_Night Cap._

     With moderately fine cotton and 5 needles.

Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles: increase 2 stitches on each
needle; in the next round, increase 1 stitch on each needle; make a seam
in the middle of each needle and increase on each side of it every other
round, until you have a sufficient number of stitches for the size of
your cap. Leave off seaming the middle stitches and knit round until
your cap is 3/4 of a yard long, then finish the end like the beginning,
decreasing where you before increased.


_Night Cap._

     French Pattern.

Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, knit round increasing them to 4,
next round increase 1 on each needle and make seams of the centre
stitches. Knit round increasing 1 stitch on each side of the seam
(leaving 3 stitches between the 2 that are increased) on each needle.
When your cap is large enough round, leave off seaming and knit round
until the cap is 3/4 of a yard long: make the end like the beginning.


_Lambs’-wool Sleeve._

Cast on each of 3 needles 18 or 24 stitches according to the size of the
sleeve wished for; knit and rib 3 stitches alternately until the sleeve
is about 3 inches long. Then take coarser needles and coarser
lambs’-wool and knit plain until the sleeve is nearly long enough, and
finish by ribbing it again for about an inch and a half.


_Cephaline._

     To be worn on the head on leaving heated rooms.

     A mesh 3/4 of an inch wide and one 1/4 that width are required. It
     may be netted in flox silk or fine lambs’-wool.

Net a row of 60 stitches and back again with the large mesh (these are
the middle rows). Net a row with the fine mesh. The next row is netted
with the large mesh 3 stitches in each stitch, then a row with the fine
mesh taking each stitch separately. Afterwards a row with the large mesh
2 stitches in each of the first 60 stitches, 1 in each of the next 60,
and 2 in each of the rest; a narrow row; a Wide row without increase; a
narrow row; a wide row 3 stitches in each stitch. Repeat these rows on
the other side, beginning at the first narrow row.

Run a ribbon through the middle rows, sew the ends to the ribbon and the
Cephaline is made.


_Diamond Knitting._

Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 11; begin with the
cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over it,
knit 6 stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, bring the cotton
forward, knit 1 stitch; repeat these 11 stitches all round. A plain
round. Knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1,
pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 4, knit 2 taken
together, bring the cotton forward and knit 2 stitches; repeat these 11
stitches all round. A plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the cotton
forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted
stitch, knit 2, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 3,
repeat these round. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, bring the cotton
forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted
one, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 4, repeat
these 11 stitches round. A plain round. Knit 4 stitches, bring the
cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted
stitch, knit 5 stitches. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, knit 2
together, bring the cotton forward, knit 1, bring the cotton forward,
slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over, knit 3; repeat
these stitches round. You will perceive that this round begins another
round of diamonds, and that you increase from the point of the diamond,
and decrease the other half diamond to a point.


_Another Diamond Knitting._

     Four needles are required.

Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 8, bring the thread
forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit
6, repeat these 8 stitches all round. Knit a plain round. Bring the
thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch,
knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it; knit 3, knit 2 taken
together, repeat this all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward,
knit 3 stitches, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull
the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, repeat this
all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1
and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together,
bring the thread forward knit 3 stitches, repeat this all round. Plain
round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the
slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward
knit 4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread
forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit
5, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the thread
forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit
4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches taken together,
bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1
stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 3, repeat this
all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 3
stitches, bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the
slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward
and repeat the last 8 stitches all round. Plain round. Now you will see
you are to begin decreasing the 5 stitches of the smaller diamonds; and
you have enough of the pattern done to see how to proceed. The 3 middle
stitches of the larger diamond are _always_ plain knitting, and the 1st
decrease is done with the remaining stitch of the small diamond.


_Small Feather Pattern._

     As this is knitted round, 4 needles are required. It is very pretty
     for a purse or mitten.

Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 13. Begin with the
thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch,
thus increasing 2 loop stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, twice,
knit 1 stitch, this is the centre stitch of one stripe, decrease twice,
increase twice, and repeat these 13 stitches all round. Knit 3 rounds.
Repeat these 4 rounds.


_Double Eyelet Knitting._

     Four needles are required.

Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 7. Begin with the
thread forward, knit 1 stitch, decrease by taking 2 stitches together,
knit 1 stitch, decrease 1 stitch, increase 1 stitch, repeat these 7
stitches all round, and knit 2 rounds plain. Repeat these 3 rounds.


_Gouty Shoes._

For the sole cast on 10 stitches and knit 3 rows. Knit on, increasing 1
stitch near the middle of every alternate row until you have 20
stitches. Increase every 4th row, until you have 24 stitches. Knit 12
rows. Increase twice, 1 stitch in every 5th row. Knit 8 rows. Decrease 4
times in every 4th row. Decrease 8 times, 1 stitch in every 2nd row;
twice, 1 in every 4th row. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase 9 times, 1 stitch
in every 4th row. Decrease 4 times, 1 stitch in every 4th row. Decrease
3 times, 2 stitches in every 2nd row. Decrease 2 stitches in every row
until only 5 stitches are left, which are to be cast off.

This is to be knitted with very coarse cotton, wound double, and needles
No. 16.

For the upper part cast on 11 stitches, with needles No. 8, and coarse
lambs’-wool; increase 2 stitches in every row until you have 25
stitches. Increase 2 stitches in every other row until you have 31, then
2 stitches in every 3rd row until you have 37. Knit 2 rows plain. Knit
12 stitches backwards and forwards until long enough for the quarter.
Cast off 13 stitches and knit the remaining 12 backwards and forwards,
to correspond with the other side. Sew up the back and fasten in the
sole on the wrong side.


_To increase and decrease in Double Knitting._

In double knitting you cannot very well increase oftener than every 3
rows, as you do not complete the increase in less than 3 rows. In the
1st row knit 1 stitch behind wherever you wish to increase; in the 2nd
row do the same to the stitch adjoining, and in the 3rd row when you
come to the increase, knit 1 stitch, and pass the next upon another
needle, bring the thread forward slip a stitch and replace the one from
the 3rd needle, knit it, and continue the row. You will perceive that
you cannot increase less than two stitches at once.

Decreasing in double knitting can be done in 2 rows. In the 1st row knit
2 _knitting_ stitches together passing the farther one over the
intervening stitch, bring the thread forward and slip 2 stitches
(instead of 1). In the 2nd row 2 _knitting_ stitches will come together,
knit them taken together. You cannot decrease less than 2 stitches at
once.


_Double Knitted Soles._

     To wear in the shoes.

Cast on 14 stitches, knit in double knitting 2 rows, increase 2 stitches
in 3 rows (as directed in the preceding pattern) until you have 24
stitches. Knit 6 rows, then decrease 2 stitches every 2 rows until you
have but 10 stitches left. Knit 8 rows. Increase until you have 20
stitches. Knit 6 rows. Decrease 2 stitches in 2 rows until you have 12
stitches left, decrease 4 stitches in 2 rows twice and cast off the
remaining 4 stitches.


_Lambs’-wool Boot._

     Four ivory needles and coarse lambs’-wool are required.

Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round 2 stitches plain and 2
ribbed alternately until it is 4 inches long, then take another coloured
lambs’-wool and knit 2 rounds of 2 stitches plain and 2 ribbed, decrease
in the middle of one needle 1 stitch on each side of a rib for 20 rows;
knit 3 inches more without decreasing, then 2 inches with the 1st color,
1 inch with the 2nd, and fasten off by drawing the lambs’-wool through
2 stitches at a time and knotting it. Sew up the boot at the bottom.


_Baby’s Lambs’-wool Cap._

Cast on 60 stitches. Knit 3 or 4 rows plain. Knit about 20 turns in
double knitting; this will make it 14 inches in length and 7 inches in
depth. Knit 12 turns plain and 10 turns double knitting. Knit 2 or 3
turns plain knitting, reducing the number of stitches so as to form the
crown. Fasten it up a little way behind, turn back the first part of
double knitting, and run a ribbon through it.


_Baby’s Hat._

     Seven needles No. 16, are required.

Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds. Knit 1 round
increasing at the back of every stitch. Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round
increasing at the back of every stitch, and 1 round without increase.
Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round increasing 3 stitches on each needle, and 1
round plain. Rib 2 rounds. Knit and rib 2 rounds alternately, always
increasing 3 stitches on each needle in the 1st plain knitted round,
until you can count 7 ribbed welts. Knit 2 rounds and rib 2 rounds
alternately without increasing any more for 15 welts. Knit round
increasing 5 times on each needle, knit 1 plain round. Continue to knit
and rib in the same manner increasing 5 stitches on each needle in the
1st knitted round until the brim is broad enough, perhaps about 13
welts, and cast off.

Have the hat made very stiff, and dried on a shape.


_Baby’s Stockings._

     With needles No. 15, and fine lambs’-wool.

Cast on 25 stitches; knit a row, increase a stitch at the end. Knit 3
rows increasing at the end of each. After this increase, at the end of
every other row only, until there are 36 stitches on the needle. Take
off 14 stitches on a 3rd needle and knit the 22 that are left (beginning
at the _sloping_ side) backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges,
cast on 14 stitches and make this side like the other by decreasing.
When this is done, put the 14 stitches on the needle again, take up 10
stitches in the middle and 14 at the side, knit 4 rows. Knit 2 stitches,
increase a stitch, knit the rest increasing again in the last stitch but
two. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase as before; continue to knit 4 plain
rows and to increase 2 stitches in the 5th until there are 50 stitches.
Knit 4 rows and decrease every 5th until there are 40. Purl and knit
every alternate 2 stitches for 14 rows; finish with 4 plain rows. When
knitted, the stocking must be sewn up and a ribbon run through it to tie
it round the ankle.


_Baby’s Gaiters._

Cast on 18 stitches; knit a row; knit a row increasing a stitch at the
end; knit a row. Knit a row increasing 1 stitch at the end. A plain row.
Increase every other row until there are 30 stitches on the needle. Knit
18 beginning from the sloping side, (take off the remaining 12 on a
third needle,) knit backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges,
cast on 12 stitches and decrease in the same proportion as you increased
to make the sides match. When the foot is finished, take the 12 stitches
from the 3rd needle, take up 10 stitches in the middle and 12 on the
side and knit the _legging_ as in the last pattern. Sew it up and bind
the foot with white ribbon.


_Baby’s Spencer._

     Needles No. 14.

Cast on 12 stitches, knit 8 rows, counting the casting on row as one. In
the 8th row make 2 holes, (1 near the straight side and one in the
middle of the row) by bringing the wool forward and knitting 2 stitches
together. Increase a stitch at the end of this row and every 4th row
afterwards, until you have 22 stitches. Knit 8 rows, at the end of the
8th row decrease a stitch; knit 4 rows and decrease again at the end of
the 4th; after this, decrease every other row until there are only 14
stitches: knit a row and cast off. This is one side of the back; make
the other to match it.

The front. Cast on 64 stitches, knit 16 rows, making holes in the 8th
row as before directed, then increase by making 2 stitches in 1 six
times every other row, about 14 stitches from the beginning and end of
the row. Knit a row. Knit 6 stitches backwards and forwards decreasing a
stitch every other row (with the needle on which the other stitches are)
until only 2 are left; cast them off: if the wool be left loose it need
not be broken off. Knit the stitches on the needle and make the other
end like that which is finished. Knit 28 rows, gradually decreasing
until only 36 stitches are left; then knit 12 stitches backwards and
forwards for 24 rows, cast off the 12 stitches and repeat the same at
the other end of the row. Sew on the backs, take up the stitches down
the back, knit 6 rows and cast off. On one side leave holes for the
buttonholes. Take up the stitches round the neck, knit 4 rows, make
holes for the string, knit 4 rows and cast off.

The sleeve. Cast on 16 stitches. Increase gradually until you think it
wide enough; decrease towards the wrist, knit and rib 2 stitches
alternately for about an inch, and finish with 4 plain rows.


_Baby’s Stays._

     To be knitted in soft cotton or fine lambs’-wool. Needles No. 15.

Cast on 204 stitches. The 6 _first_ and _last_ stitches are knitted
every row: knit and rib the rest, knitting 6 stitches then ribbing 6.
Knit 60 rows, ribbing those stitches in 1 row which were knitted in the
last. After 60 rows have been done, knit and rib 60 stitches, and,
instead of finishing the row, turn back and cast off 6 stitches, knit
and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row
(consisting of 54 stitches), rib and knit it. Knit and rib the next row.
Decrease at the beginning coming back. Repeat the last 4 rows. Then cast
off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch, rib and knit
the others. Cast off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1
stitch, knit and rib the rest. Cast off 6 stitches, rib and knit the
rest. Knit and rib the row. Cast off 6 stitches, knit and cast off the
12 remaining. One side of the back is now finished. Begin to knit with
the stitch next to the last of the 6 cast off under the arm. Knit and
rib 90 stitches, turn back and cast off 6, knit and rib the rest.
Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 76 stitches only
are left. Decrease 1, rib 6, knit 6, rib 6, knit 6. Cast off 24, rib and
knit the remainder. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, knit
and rib the rest. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, rib and
knit the rest. Rib and knit 12, cast off 6. Knit these 6 stitches
backwards and forwards for the shoulder strap. Make the other side of
the front and back to match, bind the stays with ribbon, and sew on
strings.


_Baby’s Sock._

     To appear like a shoe and stocking. Eight steel needles, 4 No. 14,
     and 4 No. 20, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.

Cast 14 stitches on one of the coarse needles, with double lambs’-wool,
knit 14 turns, loop 12 stitches on the same needle, 28 on the second and
12 on the third, and pick up the 14 loops on the cast on side of the
piece of knitting; you will now have 80 stitches in all on the needles.
Knit 6 _turns_, decrease 1 stitch at the end of each row until you have
only 70 stitches. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle of the row, knitting
1 plain stitch between; continue thus decreasing 2 stitches for the heel
in the centre of every row, and one at the end for the toe, until you
have 60 stitches left. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle, divide the
stitches in halves, 29 on each needle, and join it by knitting the two
rows together ending at the toe. Pick up 14 loops on the instep, and 56
round the top of the shoe, with a different color knit one _round_ and
cast off; this is to look like the binding, and completes the shoe.

For the stocking use the fine needles and single wool. Take up 14
stitches on the instep, behind the chain stitch (or coloured binding).
Knit 1 plain row taking up a stitch from the side and knitting that and
the last stitch together. Purl 1 row knitting the last stitch and a side
stitch together. Knit the next row, bringing the wool before the needle
every stitch and knitting 2 stitches taken together. Knit these last 2
rows alternately until you have 12 rows of holes, remembering to take up
a stitch at the side and knit it with the last stitch. Then take up 34
stitches round the shoe, behind the chain stitch, continue the pattern
as on the instep, when you have 12 rows of holes above the binding, knit
1 plain round adding a stitch after every third stitch, making in all
64 stitches, knit 12 rounds of knitting, and purling 2 stitches
alternately. Cast off. Make a small rosette of ribbon, and sew it in
front of the shoe.


_Netted Curtain._

     For a French Bed.

With a mesh 1 inch wide net 130 stitches. 195 rows will complete the
curtain.


_Moorish Brioche or Cushion._

     Choose any number of colored wools, or if preferred, two that
     contrast well. Two needles, No. 12.

Cast on 60 stitches, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, (by
this you increase by a loop stitch,) bring the wool forward, slip a
stitch, knit 1; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 2nd row:
bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop made last row with
the next stitch, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop
and stitch together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. Knit 6
more rows in the same manner, the stitch is the same throughout. Fasten
on the 2nd color, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring
the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Now instead of continuing the
row, turn back. Bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring the
wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Continue to increase the number you
slip and knit by 4 every time, until all the 60 have been knitted. Knit
8 rows of the 1st color, and proceed as before. Twelve of these
divisions will make the cushion large enough. Sew it up at the side. Net
a fringe with double coarse lambs’-wool to the narrow part, and run in a
string to tie it tightly together under the fringe. Make a round
cushion, and cover it with the knitting.


_A Blanket._

     Two very coarse wooden needles and wool proportionably coarse.

Cast on 30 stitches; knit a few plain rows for the edge; then begin with
the wool forward, slip 1 stitch taking it under so as not to twist it,
knit 1 stitch, repeat these 2 stitches to the end of the row, and you
will find you have increased 15 stitches; repeat this row with this only
difference, that in future you knit the loop and stitch under it
together.

These strips done in squares of different colors are very pretty.


_Blanket in strips._

     Needles and wool the same as for the preceding pattern.

Cast on 32 stitches, knit 7 rows common knitting; then begin double
knitting,[106-*] knitting 4 stitches plain on each side for a border,
knit about 24 rows, knit 8 rows plain and then double knitting again;
continue these squares until the piece is long enough. It is very pretty
if the squares are done in different colors.

     [106-*] See Contents--Double Knitting. For a blanket it is better
     to put the wool twice round the needle in the knitted stitches.


_Netted Lace._

     Begin on a straight foundation with a mesh No. 16. Of course the
     number of stitches will depend on the length that is wished for.
     216 will make about a yard.

Net 24 plain rows. Take a mesh 1/4 of an inch wide, or a trifle wider,
net 3 stitches in the 1st stitch, pass 2 stitches, net 5 stitches in the
next, pass 2, and net 5 stitches in every 3rd stitch to the end of the
row. Take the small mesh and net every stitch you have increased as a
single stitch, and finish with another row on the small mesh.


_Puff Netting._

     Very pretty for caps.

Begin your netting on a foundation that will divide by 10. Net 9
stitches, net 9 stitches in the 10th; repeat to the end of the row. Net
3 rows, 1 stitch in _every_ stitch. In the next row (which will make the
5th from the increase), take the first 9 stitches as 1 stitch, net the
following 9 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. Begin again.


_A Cool Night-cap._

     Puff netting.

     The mesh to be 1/4 inch wide.

Begin on a round foundation of 71 stitches; net 3 plain rounds. In the
4th round, net 5 stitches, net 5 stitches in the 6th stitch; repeat this
all round. Net 2 rounds, netting one stitch in _every_ stitch. In the
next round take the 5 plain stitches as _one_, net 5 stitches, repeat
all round. Begin again with the 4th round (increasing 5 stitches after
the decrease). When the cap is deep enough net one round putting the
cotton twice round the mesh; run a ribbon in at the top and bottom, and
tie the top string tight.


_Suspenders._

     Two needles No. 16.

Cast on 18 stitches, and knit about 6 rows in double knitting with the
thread once round the needle, knit 9 stitches, take off the other 9 on
another needle, and knit the first 9 backwards and forwards until it is
long enough for a button-hole; take back the cotton and knit up the
other 9 until both are even, (the loop which is left from carrying the
thread down can be sewn in afterwards); knit 6 more rows double
knitting, and 2 rows double knitting with the thread twice round the
needle. Knit 1 row of plain knitting, increasing 1 stitch in every 2,
which will make in all 27. Then in the front row; knit the 2nd stitch
first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th
and 5th, and repeat the same to the end, which will be 1 knitted stitch.
Back row; purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you were
going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the right
hand and purl it: repeat this to the last stitch, which is to be purled.
Repeat these 2 rows until you think it long enough, then begin double
knitting, decrease to 18 stitches again, knit about 2 inches and finish
in a point.

These suspenders are firmer and less elastic than those given in the
first series.


_Parisian Net Knitting._

     This pattern is very pretty for a foot-muff, blanket, or sofa
     guard.

     Take German lambs’-wool of two colors that contrast well; pink and
     white form a pretty mixture.

Cast on an even number of stitches, and with the white wool knit several
rows before beginning the pattern. 1st row; fasten on the pink wool
forward, knit the first stitch with the white wool, pass the pink round
the needle bringing it forward again, and purl the next stitch with it;
pass the purled stitch on to the left-hand needle and knit it with the
white wool, knit 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round the
needle, purl 1 stitch and pass it back on to the left-hand needle, knit
it and the following stitch with the white wool; continue the same to
the end of the row. 2nd row; purl the white stitches with the white
wool, and slip the pink loops, taking care not to twist them or change
the side which is forward. 3rd row; knit the white stitches with the
white wool and slip the pink loops. 4th row; purl the 1st stitch with
the white wool, turn the pink wool (which is now behind) round the
needle, and with it knit the pink loop and following white stitch taken
together, slip the stitch on to the left hand needle and purl it with
the white wool, purl 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round
the needle, and knit with it the pink loop and following stitch taken
together, slip it on to the other needle and purl it with the white
wool, repeat the same to the end. 5th row; knit all the white stitches
with the white wool and slip the pink loops. 6th row; purl the white
stitches with the white wool and slip the pink. 7th row; knit 1 stitch
with the white wool, pass the pink wool (which is forward) round the
needle and with it purl the pink loop and following white stitch taken
together, observing to take the pink loop by the under side, slip the
stitch on to the left hand needle and knit it and the following white
stitch with the white wool; repeat the same to the end of the row: as
the 7th row takes the place of the 1st, continue with the 2nd row.


_Diamond Knitting._

Cast on 14 stitches for each pattern. 1st round: knit 12 stitches, knit
2 taken together, and bring the cotton forward; repeat the same. 2nd
round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 9, knit 2 taken together and
bring the cotton forward, knit 1 and bring the cotton forward again. 3rd
round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together,
bring the cotton forward, knit 3, and bring the cotton forward again.
4th round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 5, knit 2 taken
together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, and bring the cotton forward
again. 5th round: knit 2 taken together, knit 3, knit 2 taken together,
bring the cotton forward, knit 7, bring the cotton forward. 6th round:
knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, bring
the cotton forward, knit 9, bring the cotton forward. 7th round: knit 3
taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, bring the cotton
forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 4, bring the cotton forward. Begin
again.


_Four Patterns, for D’Oyleys, Toilet Covers, Baby’s Quilts, or Basket
Napkins._

     Two needles, No. 22 or 23, and very fine knitting cotton.


No. 1.

Cast on a number of stitches that will divide into an even number of
threes. _Knit and rib_ 3 stitches alternately for 3 rounds. In the next
3 rounds, _rib and knit_ 3 stitches alternately.


No. 2.

Cast on a number of stitches as for the last pattern. Knit and rib 3
stitches alternately for 2 rows. The following rows begin so as to bring
the first ribbed stitch over the last knitted: this is to make the
ribbed and knitted ridges go in diagonal stripes.


No. 3.

Cast on a number of stitches that will divide by 10. Knit 1 stitch, rib
9, repeat the same to the end of the row. 2nd row: rib 1 stitch, knit 7,
rib 2. 3rd row: knit 3, rib 5, knit 2. 4th row: rib 3, knit 3, rib 4.
5th row: knit 5, rib 1, knit 4. 6th row: knit 4, rib 1, knit 5. 7th row:
rib 4, knit 3, rib 3. 8th row: knit 2, rib 5, knit 3. 9th row: rib 2,
knit 7, rib 1. 10th row: rib 9, knit 1. Begin again.


No. 4.

Cast on an even number of stitches. 1st row: knit every stitch with the
cotton twice round the needle. 2nd row: begin by dropping one twist of
the 1st stitch, knit the rest of this stitch with the 1st twist of the
next, taking them together; finish the row, knitting 2 threads taken
together, knit the last stitch. Begin again.


_Mazaniello Cap._

     Four Needles,
     And Wool of two colors which contrast well.

Cast on 30 stitches. 1st row is purled. 2nd row, slip the 1st stitch and
knit the row taking two stitches together to the last stitch which knit.
3rd row; slip the 1st stitch, purl the next, raise a loop between this
stitch and the next and purl it, repeat these 2 stitches to the end. 4th
row; knit plain. These 4 rows form one stripe of diamonds. Take the
second colored wool and purl 1 row, repeat the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rows.
Repeat these 8 rows until you have 15 stripes of diamonds in each
colour: Cast off.

Pick up 60 stitches on the side of the piece you have been knitting;
(i. e. 2 in each stripe of diamonds). Take first the 2nd color and
afterwards the 1st, and repeat the 4 rows as given above, until you have
7 stripes of one color and 6 of the other. Cast off loosely. This piece,
when the cap is finished is _wrong side_ outwards as it is to be turned
up all round.

To finish the crown, pick up 60 stitches on 3 needles and with the 2nd
color repeat the pattern, observing that its right side must be the
right side of the cap, (consequently the wrong side of the piece at the
bottom). In the 4th round reduce 1 stitch in every 4. Repeat the pattern
with the 1st colors. In the 4th round, knit 2, knit 2 taken together,
repeat to the end of the round. In the 4th round of the 3rd round of
diamonds reduce every other stitch. In the 4th round of the 4th round
of diamonds, thread a worsted needle with the wool and pass it through
all the stitches, draw them up tight and fasten off.

The cap may be finished with a cord and tassel to match in colors, or
with a tassel only.


_Muff, in Spots or Stars._

     Two wooden needles, No. 10, and for a small muff 1 ounce of blue
     and 1 ounce of black fleecy. Double that quantity for a large size.

For a small muff cast on 60 stitches, for a large one 84. The number
must divide into 3 equal numbers. Cast on the stitches with the black
wool, purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward and knit 2 stitches
taken together, (every 2nd row with the black wool must begin like this)
bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches pull the first over the 2 last,
repeat these 3 stitches to the end, when you will find you have one
stitch left, bring the wool forward and knit it. Join on the blue wool
and purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken together,
knit 2 stitches and pull the stitch in which you decreased over them,
(every 2nd blue row begins thus) bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches
pull the 1st over the 2 last, repeat these 3 stitches to the end of the
row. Use the black wool and repeat the whole. For a small muff do 21
stripes of each color, for a large one 42. Cast off.

To make up a small muff you must buy 5-8ths of gros-de-naples, 1-1/2 oz.
of fine carded wool and 1 oz. of fine horse-hair. Double the silk in
halves and place on it 1 layer of wool. 1 layer of horse-hair and a
second layer of wool. Quilt these to one-half of the silk and fold the
other half over, and sew it to the knitted cover; turn the muff inside
out and sew up first the knitted part and then the silk. Finish the muff
at the edges by a cord or a quilling of ribbon.


_Another Muff._

     Two needles No. 10 and 3 skeins of coarse fleecy.

Cast on sixty stitches. Knit 1 row; rib 1 row; knit 1 row taking 2
stitches together all the way. 4th row; knit 1 stitch, pick up and knit
a loop between the stitches, continue the same to the end of the row. As
by this you would lose 1 stitch, this must be prevented by picking up
and knitting a loop alternately, before beginning or at the end of every
4th row.

Make up the muff like the preceding pattern.




TERMS USED IN KNITTING.


  _A turn_ means two rows.

  _To turn_ means to change from plain to purled stitches, or the
    reverse.

  _A ridge_ is formed by two rows when knitting with only two pins.

  _A loop stitch_ is formed by passing the thread before the needle,
    and, in _knitting_ the next stitch, letting it take its usual place.

  _To increase in knitting a Quilt_, care should always be taken to
    increase by knitting twice through the last stitch, which is done by
    knitting a stitch, and then, without taking out the needle, knitting
    a second at the back.

  _To fasten on in knitting._ It is a secure fastening to lay the two
    ends contrary-wise to each other, and knit a few stitches with them
    both.

  _To narrow_ or _decrease_ is to make small, to lessen, as in shaping a
    stocking.

  _Ribbed stitch_, _purl stitch_, _turned_, or _seam stitch_, are all
    terms having the same meaning. A turned stitch is made by bringing
    the cotton before the needle, and instead of putting the needle over
    the upper cotton, it is put under.

  _To slip_, _take off_, or _pass a stitch_, is to change it from one
    needle to another without knitting it.

  _To take under_, means to pass the right hand needle through the
    stitch on the left hand one, so as still to keep the same side of
    the stitch towards you.

  _Welts_ are the rounds of ribbed stitches done at the top of
    stockings, to prevent their rolling up.

  _Cast off_ means to end your work in the following manner: knit 2
    stitches, pass the first over the second, and continue the same
    until you have but one left, which is finished by passing your
    cotton through it.

  _To decrease_ is to lessen the number of stitches by knitting 2 taken
    together.

  _To increase_, or _make a double stitch_, is to knit one stitch in the
    usual way, then, without slipping out the left hand needle, to pass
    the thread forward and knit a second stitch, putting the needle
    under the stitch. The thread must be put back when the stitch is
    finished.

  _Hang on_, means cast on.

  _Bring the thread forward_, means to pass it between the needles
    towards you.

  _Cast over_ is a term I believe sometimes used by knitters, to
    signify, bring the cotton forward. I have only used it to express,
    bring the cotton over the needle, quite round.

  _Round the needle_, means the same as the last term.

  _Reversed_, means quite round the needle, the cotton being passed
    _over_ the needle, and then carried back to its place.

  _Together_, means knit 2 stitches in 1.

  _Set_, or _Tuft_, the bunches of cotton used in making some of the
    Fringes.

  _To widen_ means to increase.

The netting meshes are numbered from the knitting needle gauge, as I am
not aware there is any other rule for them.




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Transcriber’s Note


The following typographical errors were corrected:

  Page   Error
    ii  Chequed changed to Chequered
     7  long enough. changed to long enough,
    12  mesh, In changed to mesh. In
    50  next round. by changed to next round by
    69  the 9th, changed to the 9th.
    73  86 stiches; changed to 86 stitches
    82  and go on, changed to and go on.
   110  sofa guard. changed to sofa guard,
   122  needle guage changed to needle gauge

The following words were inconsistently spelled:

  D’Oyleys / Doyleys
  Honey-comb / Honeycomb