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Title: The children's kraft shop

Author: Adelia B. Beard


        
Release date: June 28, 2026 [eBook #78973]

Language: English

Original publication: Chicago: M. A. Donohue & Company Publishers, 1914

Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/78973

Credits: Richard Tonsing, Charlene Taylor, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)


*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CHILDREN'S KRAFT SHOP ***




[Illustration: Book cover of 'The Children's Kraft Shop' by Adelia Belle
Beard. The vintage illustration shows a young girl and boy in red
outfits sitting at a table building a toy sailboat with scissors, glue,
and paper. An open book titled 'The Know How Books' rests on a lower
desk in the foreground.]

                             THE CHILDREN’S
                               KRAFT SHOP


                   INVENTED, WRITTEN AND ILLUSTRATED
                                   BY
                           ADELIA BELLE BEARD


                                CHICAGO
                         M.A. DONOHUE & COMPANY
                               PUBLISHERS


[Illustration: The verso copyright page from a vintage book, featuring a
central rectangular graphic framed by a decorative floral garland and
ribbons. The text inside reads: 'Copyright 1914, M. A. DONOHUE & CO.']




                         _FOREWORD TO MOTHERS_


Introducing the Children’s Kraftshop. We have endeavored to open a new
and useful field of simple handicrafts for little folk, giving them an
original line of toys and a new line of materials with which to make
them. We hope the children will have a great deal of pleasure in making
toys of such things as empty spools, sticks of kindling wood, wooden
clothespins, natural twigs, old envelopes and newspapers, and in this
way to encourage resourcefulness, originality, inventiveness, and the
power to do with supplies at hand.

Everything described in the book has been invented by the author, and
made by such practical and simple methods that a child’s mind can grasp
them, and a child’s hands be easily trained to manufacture the articles.

[Illustration: Vintage line illustration by Adelia Belle Beard featuring
a young girl and boy testing a homemade toy. The girl, in a pink dress
and hair bow, stands holding a taut string threaded through four red
cardboard discs. On the ground, a boy kneels beside a small toy boat on
wheels with two paper sails. The artist's signature is in the bottom
right corner.]




                            Making Wind Toys

                         By Adelia Belle Beard

                One of the Authors of Things Worth Doing

[Illustration: (Figure 4.) The string of pinwheels]


It was the windy weather that suggested the new toys to the children.
“Suppose we try pinwheels,” said Polly. “Not the old kind on sticks that
we used to make, but we can have them different somehow, and this wind
will make them spin like mad. Donald, I just _must_ have pinwheels.”

Polly’s enthusiasm inspired Donald. “We can make a windmill with a
pinwheel for the big wheel,” he said.

“Oh, yes,” chimed in Polly, “you do that, and I will make a string of
pinwheels that will not need sticks, or pins either. What shall we make
them of?”

“Stiff writing paper is the best,” replied Donald. “Here is our best
pad,” he added, taking from the table drawer a large pad of good quality
writing paper. “Do you think we ought to use it?”

[Illustration: (Figure 3.) The way the thread goes through]

“Why not?” said Polly. “Mother says we are learning lots of things in
our Kraft Shop.”

Donald had no further scruples about using the paper, though he was
careful not to waste it. “I am going to make the tower for my windmill
of this heavy manila wrapping paper,” he announced. “It is nice and
smooth and plenty strong and stiff enough.”

“I would,” Polly answered absently, as she folded and slashed the
squares for her pinwheels. “I’ll have them graduated,” she continued,
thinking of her own work; “first a large wheel, then a smaller, then a
smaller one still, and the last shall be smallest of all.”

[Illustration: (Figures 1 and 2.) First steps in making pinwheels]

For her largest wheel Polly cut a square of writing paper, which
measured exactly six inches along each edge. The next she cut five and a
half inches square, the next four and a half inches square and the
smallest three and a half inches square. Then she placed her ruler
across the largest square diagonally from the upper right-hand corner to
the lower left-hand corner and ran her pencil along its edge. This gave
her a diagonal pencil line from corner to corner on her square. Again
she placed her ruler across the square, this time from the upper
left-hand corner to the lower right-hand corner, and drew a line along
its edge, dividing her square into four equal triangles. After this she
drew the same kind of lines on the three other squares. With her
scissors she cut slashes along each line on each of the squares to
within three-quarters of an inch of the center. (Figure 1.)

Lifting the upper left-hand point of the large square (A, Figure 1), she
brought it to, and overlapped, the center of the square (A, Figure 2),
curving, not sharply bending the paper. The point B she brought also to
the center, overlapping the point A. She did the same with C and D, C
overlapping B and D overlapping C. When all the four points met at the
center Polly ran a large needle, threaded with a long, soft, white
cotton string, through the center of the wheel at the back and out
through the overlapping points in front, taking care that the needle
passed through every point. Then she drew the needle up until the back
of the pinwheel rested against a knot which was tied about six inches
from the end of the string and, allowing almost one inch of string for
the wheel to turn on, she tied another knot in front of the wheel, to
hold it. Between the two knots the wheel could whirl, but could not move
out of place.

Six inches above the last knot she made another knot and then strung the
next largest pinwheel on the string and fastened with a second knot in
the same manner as the first wheel. In this way all four were put on the
string, each six inches from its neighbor, and then there remained half
a yard or more of free string above the last wheel. On the free end of
the string Polly fastened a small square of pasteboard by pushing the
needle through the center of the square and tying a large knot at the
extreme end of the string to keep the pasteboard from slipping off.
(Figure 4.)

“The wind can’t pull the string through my fingers when I hold it by
this pasteboard square,” she said, and almost before the last knot was
tied Polly was at the window. “Come quick, Donald, I am going to try my
pinwheels,” she cried, throwing up the sash and putting out the hand
that held the end of her string.

[Illustration: (Figure 5.) Donald made the tower all in one piece]

Donald dropped his windmill and gained the window at a bound, as anxious
as Polly to see the result of her experiment. Immediately the wind
caught the string of pinwheels, lifted it out straight and sent each
wheel whirling at a great rate.

“How they do go!” Donald exclaimed. “Now come and help finish the
windmill. You make the wheel while I get the tower in shape.”

“All right,” said Polly cheerfully. “How big shall I make the wheel?”

“About six and one-half inches square.”

[Illustration: (Figure 6.) It looks like a real windmill]

Donald made the tower for his windmill all in one piece. (Figure 5.) He
first decided upon the height and width, then drew four connecting
oblong panels for the four sides. Each of these panels he made ten
inches high and four inches wide. For the peaked roof he drew four more
panels, one above each of the side panels. These he made four inches
high and four inches wide, just the width of the side panels. Exactly at
the middle of each top line of each roof panel he made a dot with his
pencil, then drew slanting lines from the ends of the base of each roof
panel to the dot at the top. This gave four points for the roof. (Figure
5.)

The laps, or feet, for the tower to stand on, Donald made by drawing a
horizontal line just one inch below the lower edges of the side panels
and bringing the side lines down to meet it. The bend-over, attached to
the fourth panel, which holds the tower together, he made two inches
wide and exactly the length of the side panels.

This finished the drawing and Donald proceeded to cut it out. He cut
along the slanting lines of the second and fourth points of the roof,
but on the first and third points he left bend-overs, as shown in Figure
5, simply cutting off some of the top of the two squares to make the
bend-overs fit under the other two points. Just two inches below the top
line and two inches from each side line of the second and fourth side
panel Donald punctured two small holes. (A and B, Figure 5.) These were
for the wheel rod. He then slashed the lines which separated the feet at
the bottom of the side panels and bent the tower in shape according to
the dotted lines in Figure 5. The feet he bent out, the roof he bent in,
the sides he bent in, and each bend he creased sharply to give a smooth,
even edge. With good glue he fastened the bend-overs of the roof to the
under side of the cut-out points; then he glued the side bend-over to
the outside of the first panel and his tower was finished.

[Illustration: (Figure 7.) The wind wagon sails like a ship]

Polly had completed the wheel for the mill, making it as she did her
pinwheels, with this difference: instead of a string to hold the wheel
together she used a strong pin and put it through from the front,
piercing the laps before running it through the center of the wheel.

“Are the little holes to hold the stick for the wheel, Donald?” she
inquired.

“Yes; I wish you would find me a good stick, Polly, while I tack the
feet of the tower to a piece of board.”

Donald used two large-headed carpet tacks for each foot, and, to prevent
the sharp edges of the heads from tearing the paper, he cut little
rounds from an old kid glove and pushed one round up on each tack before
tacking the tower to the board.

[Illustration: (Figure 8.) This is the way Polly fastened the wheels on
the wind wagon]

“Will this do?” asked Polly, holding up the slender handle of an old
paint brush.

“Just the thing,” said Donald, pushing the pointed end of the stick into
the hole A in the front of the tower and out through the hole B at the
back.

Donald forced the point of the pin that held the wheel into the blunt
end of the wheel rod which extended out one inch beyond the hole A at
the front of the tower. Then, to hold the rod at the back he pushed a
cork onto its pointed end.

“Now for a wind wagon!” cried Donald.

“Won’t a box do for the wagon part?” Polly asked, “and—”

“Spools for wheels,” broke in Donald.

[Illustration: (Figure 9.) Donald made the two sails like this]

[Illustration: (Figure 10.) A twig for a mast]

“Hatpins for axles,” added Polly.

“Four wheels and corks between to keep them apart,” said Donald.

“I am going to use this pasteboard letter-paper box,” said Polly.

“Well, tell me how wide and how long it is, so that I can make the sails
to fit.”

Polly measured the box. “It is a little over six and one-half inches
long, five inches wide and one inch and a half deep,” she announced.

“Be sure your spools are all the same size,” Donald said.

Polly begged two hatpins of her mother. One was long, the other short.
The shortest was just the right length for her axle, so, using a pair of
nippers, she broke the longer pin off at the point to match the short
one. Then she pushed one pin in on one side of the box a quarter of an
inch from the edge and one inch and a quarter from the end. On this pin,
inside of the box, she strung a large spool, then a small cork, then
another large spool and finally pushed the point of the pin through the
other side of the box exactly opposite to where it entered the first
side. On the point of the pin she stuck a small cork for a hub. The
round head of the pin answered for the other hub. (Figure 8.) The other
two spool wheels were adjusted in the same manner and the last pin was
inserted in the box the same distance from the back end and edge as the
first pin was from the front end and edge.

Donald cut both of his sails like Figure 9, making them eight inches
wide at the bottom, four inches wide at the top and six and one-quarter
inches high. He drew a line directly through the middle of each sail
from top to bottom, and on this line he cut four small points at equal
distances apart for openings to admit the masts. He made two braces at
the bottom of each sail, four inches apart, to hold them steady. (C and
D, Figure 9.) Each brace is half an inch wide, half an inch high, and
has a lap at the bottom one inch long.

When the sails were ready he erected his masts. These were slender,
straight twigs, nine inches long, sharpened to a point at each end. The
front mast he placed half an inch from the front edge of the wagon, the
back mast one inch and a half from the back edge of the wagon, and both
directly on a line drawn lengthwise through the center of the box.
Donald first punctured small holes in the box at these points, then
forcing a half-inch cork up one inch on the lower end of the front mast
(E, Figure 10), he covered the bottom of the cork with glue, and
inserted the end of the mast in the hole at the front of the box where
it was a tight fit.

When he had pushed the mast down until the glue on the cork held it
fast, he covered the top of another cork with glue (F, Figure 10), and
forced the last cork up on the mast from the under side of the wagon
until it stuck to the top. When the glue dried the mast was firm and
steady.

The sail Donald slipped onto the mast from the top, running the mast in
and out of the holes, as shown in Figure 7. He bent the laps back at the
dotted lines and glued them to the top of the box. Then to make the sail
still more secure he pasted oblongs of paper over the masts where they
ran through the sails at the back. The dotted inclosures, G and H, show
the positions of the oblongs on the sail.

When the second mast and sail were erected and adjusted in the same way
as the first, Donald cut two narrow strips of blue tissue paper, four
and a half inches long, for pennants. (Figure 7.)

“She is done now,” said Donald.




                          Making an Automobile

                         By Adelia Belle Beard

                One of the Authors of Things Worth Doing


“Donald,” said Polly, “don’t you think we could make a cunning little
automobile if we tried ever so hard?”

“Y-e-s, we might if we could manage the wheels. They must be heavy and
turn easily. It won’t be a real auto unless it can go whizzing.”

[Illustration: A vintage, stylized line illustration of an early
20th-century open-touring automobile. The body of the car, including its
large spoked wheels and high-backed seats, is colored entirely in a
bright, solid red block print, accented with bold black ink outlines and
cross-hatched shading. One of the side doors is shown slightly open, and
a simple steering wheel extends from the dashboard.]

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting and
folding a toy car chassis, labeled with a large number 1. The flat,
rectangular pattern features solid lines for cutting and dashed lines
for folding. It includes specific measurement annotations such as 7 ¼
inches, 2 ¾ inches, and 3 ¾ inches, along with instructional labels like
'Side', 'Step', 'End', 'Axle Guard', 'Bend-Over', and notched tabs
marked 'Catch' labeled A, B, C, and D.]

“Spools, spools!” she cried joyfully. “They will go as fast as
lightning. See?” and jumping up she seized her workbasket, turned it
upside down, found an empty spool, then dropped on her knees and sent
the spool rolling across the hardwood floor.

“Spools are all right,” said Donald. “Now, can we make our motor car?”

“Well, here is the bristleboard, but I should think it would be best to
make a paper pattern first, then we can alter it as much as we like.
Donald, do you remember just how an automobile looks?” Polly inquired,
with a giggle, for Donald’s hobby was to know all about automobiles, and
he was sure he could drive one as well as an experienced chauffeur if he
had the opportunity.

[Illustration: A vintage black-and-white line illustration displaying
assembled parts and components for a toy vehicle, each labeled with a
bold number. At the top, a rectangular box-like chassis labeled 2 is
shown assembled with two axles and four simple spool wheels resting in
its pointed axle guards. Below it are isolated components: a spoked
wheel labeled 7, a small cylinder labeled 6, a shallow circular cap with
a central pin labeled 8, and a small rectangular license plate labeled 9
bearing the number 19070.]

Donald disdained a reply. “Where is the brown wrapping paper for the
patterns? Oh, here it is,” he said. “Now we will begin. Get the very
largest spools you can find, Polly; two will be enough, but they must be
the same size. Yes, these will do.”

The spools Polly selected were two inches high, an inch and a quarter
across the ends and had quite slender shafts.

“But, after all,” objected Polly, “the spools don’t look like auto
wheels.”

“That doesn’t matter; we will put the spools under the car and make show
wheels for the outside. No one will notice, when we speed the car, that
her outside wheels are not turning, They’ll appear to be.”

“Then what shall we use for show wheels?”

“Pill boxes will do. Look them up, Polly, while I make the auto frame to
hold the spools. And, Polly,” he called, as she was leaving the room,
“bring up some of those round, slender, little sticks I saw in the
kitchen, will you?

“I guess you mean skewers. Jane uses them to pin meat together with. She
got them from the butcher boy.”

“Whatever they are, I want them for axles.”

While Polly was gone Donald planned his auto frame, making it first of
the wrapping paper, and without very accurate measurements. When she
came back with the pill boxes and skewers, Donald slipped each of his
two spools onto a skewer, fitted the skewer under the frame, rolled the
frame on the table, and found his scheme would work. Then he took his
pattern apart and spread it out in front of him.

“Queer looking thing, isn’t it?” remarked Polly. “Shall I draw it on the
bristolboard and make it more exact?”

“Do,” said Donald, “and be sure you get both sides precisely alike and
both ends precisely alike, else it won’t balance.”

Polly nodded. “I’ll begin with the oblong in the middle; that’s the
floor, I suppose, then draw the sides and ends to fit.” So she fell to
work while Donald perfected his pattern for the body of the car.

The center oblong Polly made seven and one-quarter inches long and two
and three-quarters inches wide. (Fig. 1.)

“Be sure you make the sides and ends at right angles to one another,”
cautioned Donald.

“Yes, dear,” said Polly, and she proceeded to draw the sides, making
long oblongs one and one-half inches wide on either side of the large
oblong, and for the ends she drew oblongs one and one-eighth inches wide
across the entire width of the three long oblongs. “That simplifies
things,” she explained, as she extended the side lines of the large
oblong across the end oblongs. “Now I can cut it down where it needs
cutting without losing the large proportions.”

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting and
folding a toy car body, labeled with a large number 3. The flat pattern
features solid lines for cutting out the contoured shape and dashed
lines for folding. It includes specific measurement annotations such as
5 ¾ inches, 2 ¾ inches, and 2 inches, along with instructional labels
like 'Body of Auto.', 'Back', 'Door', 'Dash-Board', and notched tabs
marked 'Catch' and 'Bend-Over' labeled E and F.]

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting and
folding a component of a toy vehicle, labeled with a large number 4. The
flat pattern features solid lines for cutting and a series of vertical
dashed lines for folding. It includes specific measurement annotations
such as 5 ¼ inches, 2 ¼ inches, and 1 ½ inches, along with lettered tabs
and sections labeled I, J, K, L, and M. Curving instructional arrows
indicate where to 'Bend-Over' at specific tabs.]

Five-eighths of an inch from the outer edge of each of the sides she
drew a horizontal line for the steps. (Figure 1.) This line is three and
three-quarters inches long. It begins just one and three-quarters inches
from one end of the side and ends one and three-quarters inches from the
other end. Then Polly drew the short vertical lines from the edge to
meet the ends of the horizontal line, which gave her the end of the
steps. On either side of each step she drew an axle guard three-eighths
of an inch high, with a base half an inch wide and top an inch and a
quarter wide. “Now I will make the bend-over and the catch,” she said.

“That is a good name for it,” said Donald. “Half an inch will be wide
enough for the ‘bend-over,’ and make the catch one-quarter of an inch
wide after you have allowed a little space between it and the
bend-over.”

“How much space?” inquired Polly.

“One-sixteenth of an inch will be wide enough, and don’t make the catch
quite as long as the bend-over. Cut a little off at each end. (Figure
1.) Be careful about the slits in the ends of the frame, Polly. They
must be just half an inch from each edge, because the bend-over is half
an inch wide, and since you have made the necks of the catches half an
inch wide the slits must be a little longer.”

“What are the slits on the steps for?”

“They are to hold the mud guards. Make them about three-eighths of an
inch long and put a slit half an inch from end of each step.”

“That’s explicit,” commented Polly. “Shall I cut the frame out now?”

“Better first go over the lines you are to cut and make them quite
heavy; then dot the lines to be bent, so that you won’t spoil it by
cutting along the wrong lines.”

“Good advice; I’ll do that.”

When cut out the auto frame looked like Figure 1.

[Illustration: A vintage black-and-white line illustration demonstrating
the partially assembled three-dimensional component from the previous
template, labeled with a large number 5. The long, multi-faceted
rectangular piece is folded into shape, showing fine line shading.
Several individual tabs project outward from the main body, labeled with
the letters G, I, J, K, and L.]

[Illustration: A vintage black-and-white line illustration of a toy
steering wheel assembly, labeled below with a bold number 14. The
drawing shows a simple four-spoke steering wheel attached to a long,
slender steering column or rod that tapers to a point at the bottom.]

“I shall use my small scissors to cut the slits, Donald,” Polly said.
“The knife is so apt to slip.”

Before bending the frame into shape Polly scored the dotted lines by
drawing the blade of her knife lightly along their entire length, using
a rule to keep the knife on the line. When the sides, ends and
bend-overs were bent down Polly folded the ends of each catch inward,
then lapped the bend-overs outside the ends, inserted each catch in its
own particular slit, opened out the catches, and the ends and sides were
held firmly and evenly in place. The catch A was put through the slit A,
catch B through slit B, C through C and D through D. (Figure 1.) Then
Polly bent the steps up to stand out at right angles from the sides. “I
am ready for the spools,” she announced.

“You will have to sharpen the blunt ends of these skewers, then,” said
Donald, “and cut them off if they are too long. Three and one-half
inches will be just about the right length.”

When she had cut her axles the proper length and sharpened the ends,
Polly punctured a very small hole in each axle guard, as shown in Figure
1. Then, from the inside, she pushed one end of an axle through the hole
in one axle guard, slipped a spool on the axle and forced the other end
of the axle through the hole in the opposite axle guard. The auto frame
upside down (Figure 2) shows how this is done.

“Now for the hub to keep the axle in place,” she reflected. “I know,”
and with a spring she was up and off to rummage in her treasure box,
coming back triumphantly with several small corks.

[Illustration: A vintage black-and-white line illustration of toy
vehicle components, labeled with a bold number 15. The drawing features
a circular wheel with four intersecting inner spokes forming a
crosshairs pattern, detailed with fine-line shading along its right
edge. Directly below the wheel is a small, tapered cylindrical piece
resembling a cork or cap casting a distinct shadow.]

“See, Donald,” she said, screwing the point of the axle into the large
end of a cork. “It holds splendidly, and the spools cannot possibly drop
off.”

“First-rate idea, Polly; I hadn’t thought of the hubs. This is the body
of the car,” he continued, showing his paper pattern. “I’ll draw it on
the bristleboard if you will make wheels of the pill boxes.”

Figure 3 shows how Donald made the body of the automobile. The oblong in
the center is the floor. It is two and three-quarters inches wide, just
the width of the auto frame, and five and three-quarters inches long.
The back is two inches high at the side edges and curves up one-quarter
of an inch higher in the middle. The bend-overs at the back measure two
inches at each edge, and curve, as in Figure 3. The length of the side
from the dotted line of the bend-over to the door is two inches. The
door is square, measuring one and one-quarter inches each way. The
length of the side between the dashboard and the door is two and
one-half inches. Next to the door it is one and one-half inches high,
and at the lower corner, where the curve ends, it is one inch high. The
strip that meets the dashboard is three-eighths of an inch high. The
bend-over, including the catch, is seven-eighths of an inch high and
seven-eighths of an inch long, and the catches E and F are each
three-eighths of an inch square.

The dashboard fits in between the two front bend-overs. It is one and
one-half inches high in the middle and slopes to the sides, which are
one and one-quarter inches high. The slits in the dashboard, E and F,
are each one-half inch long and just one-half inch from the side edges.
The slit G at the top is one-half inch long and three-eighths inch below
the top edge. When Donald had cut out the auto body and scored the
dotted lines, he bent up the back, front and sides, then lapped the back
bend-overs across the outside of the back and fastened them in place by
running a pin through from the outside, as shown in Figure 17. He found
that the pin alone would not make it sufficiently secure; so, adopting
Polly’s idea, he pushed a cork on the pin, brought up snugly against the
inside of the back, and it held like a bolt. The front bend-overs he
lapped over the outside of the dashboard and pushed the catch E through
the slit E and the catch F through the slit F.

“Oh, Donald, the little doors will open, won’t they!” Polly exclaimed.

[Illustration: The seats are easily made. No. 10 is the front seat, No.
11 the back seat, and No. 12 an arm of the former. No. 13 is the mud
guard]

“Of course,” said Donald, bending them outward along the dotted lines.
“This is the hood,” he went on. “The power box, you know,” showing his
pattern like Figure 4. “I will draw it on the bristleboard now.”

First, Donald drew an oblong, five and one-quarter inches long and two
and one-quarter inches wide. This he divided into seven parts, or
panels, by drawing straight, vertical lines across the oblong. (Figure
4.) Each of the two end panels he made one and one-sixteenth inches wide
and each of the other panels five-eighths of an inch wide. He extended
the middle panel up one and three-eighths inches above the oblong, and
across the extension, half an inch above the top line of the oblong he
drew a dotted line to denote that beyond that was a bend-over. Then he
cut off the corners of the bend-over. (H, Figure 4.) He made extensions
three-quarters of an inch high above the two panels next to the middle
panel, then he cut off the inner part of these extensions, making each
half an inch wide. (I and J, Figure 4.)

[Illustration: The seats are easily made. No. 10 is the front seat, No.
11 the back seat, and No. 12 an arm of the former. No. 13 is the mud
guard.]

Directly through the center of the middle panel Donald drew a straight,
vertical line, bringing it down several inches below the bottom of the
oblong. He did this in order that he might measure on either side and so
get the end of the hood exactly in the middle and evenly balanced. He
called this center line his plumb line.

Three-eighths of an inch below the bottom line of the oblong, and
three-quarters of an inch to the left of the plumb line, Donald drew a
horizontal line just half an inch long; then he drew a corresponding
line at exactly the same distance to the right of the plumb line. These
lines he connected with the bottom corners of the middle panel with
slanting lines. (Figure 4.) Half an inch below the two short horizontal
lines he drew parallel lines of the same length and connected their
outer ends with the outer ends of the upper lines by vertical lines.
This made two square extensions. (K and L, Figure 4.) One-quarter of an
inch below the lower lines of the extensions K and L he drew another
horizontal line one and one-eighth inches long, half on one side of the
plumb line, half on the other side, and then he connected this
horizontal line with the inner ends of the bottom lines of the
extensions K and L by slanting lines. This formed the octagon-shaped
front face of the hood. Below the octagon he drew a bend-over one inch
high and running almost to a point at the bottom and half an inch above
the bottom edge of each end panel he made a slit three-quarters of an
inch long. (MM, Figure 4.)

[Illustration: A front view and a rear view of the children’s
automobile]

When Donald bent the hood into shape it looked like Figure 5. The end
panels from the bottom of the hood, and lapping completely over one
another, make it double, and the point of the bend-over (M, Figure 4)
slipped through the two slits M and M holds the hood in shape.

“But I don’t see how you are going to fasten it on,” said Polly.

“Wait until I make the lamps,” Donald answered, “and I will show you.
Are there any more corks, Polly?”

“Yes; how many do you want?”

“Four for the lamps, but bring all you have.”

Donald selected two pretty good sized corks for the lower lamps and two
smaller ones for the upper lamps. Both sizes were rather longer than he
wanted, so he cut a slice off the small end of each cork. This left the
largest corks three-quarters of an inch long and the smallest half an
inch long.

“Now, Polly,” he said, “we will cut some rounds of silver paper to fit
the tops of these corks and paste them on to represent glass, then paint
black circles around them for the rims to hold the glass. That will make
them shine.” (Figure 6.)

In a trice the lamps were finished and Donald fastened the largest ones
on the extensions K and L at the front of the hood by running a large
pin through the middle of each lamp, then through the extension,
securing it at the back with a thick slice of cork. This done he
proceeded to fasten the hood to the dashboard; first by running the
bend-over H through the slit H from the inside of the dashboard, then by
pinning the small lamps on the extensions I and J, running the pin
through the dashboard also, and making fast with slices of cork. The
exact position of the lamps is shown in the front view of the
automobile. (Figure 16.)

“Now fasten the whole thing together,” urged Polly, and Donald adjusted
the body of the car to its frame. He allowed the back of the body to
project over the back of the frame half an inch, which gave one inch and
three-quarters space in front of the hood to rest on. The hood extended
about half an inch beyond the front of the frame.

“The pins and corks hold so well I’ll use them for this,” Donald
announced, as he pinned the floor of the auto body to the top of the
frame. He put one pin just back of the dashboard and another close to
the back of the auto body. This time he used two slices of cork for each
pin, one on top of the floor, the other underneath the frame.

The two back mud guards Donald made like Figure 13, which is a strip of
bristleboard five and one-quarter inches long and five-eighths of an
inch wide. The dotted line at the end, showing where it is to be bent,
is three-quarters of an inch from the end and just half an inch from the
slots that separate the catch from the guard. From the dotted line to
the other end the guard is four and one-half inches long.

The two front mud guards he made exactly like the back ones, except that
between the dotted line and the dotted line and the opposite end the
distance was but two and three-quarters inches. He curved all four of
the guards by drawing them lightly over the blade of his knife; then he
bent them at the dotted lines, turned in the ends of each catch and
inserted each catch in its slit in the auto step. The two back guards he
put at the back ends of the steps, the two front guards at the front
ends of the steps. Taking two pins, he inserted them in one of the back
mud guards, as shown in Figure 13; then he pushed the pins into the side
of the car, the lower one into the frame just below the door and the
other into the auto body about one-quarter of an inch from the back. The
other back guard he secured in the same way, but one pin only was needed
for each of the front guards. This was run in three-quarters of an inch
from the bend of the guard and forced into the frame just in front of
the dashboard.

“Are the wheels ready?” asked Donald.

“Here they are,” and Polly pushed across the table four little wheels
like Figure 7. “I didn’t use the box covers because there was writing on
them, but I tore away the upper part of the box and the lower part was
exactly like the lid. I drew a circle on the bottom of each box to mark
off the tire and then drew the spokes and little air valves. See them?”

“We will give the tires a light wash of black paint to make them rubber
color and paint the spokes black,” said Donald.

When they were finished Donald used three small corks for fastening each
wheel in place. One for the hub, one inside the wheel, to steady it
against the auto frame (Figure 8), and one on the inside of the auto
frame. The front wheels he pinned at the extreme front of the auto
frame, half way up from the bottom edge of the frame, and the back
wheels at the extreme back of the frame, the same distance above the
bottom edge. (NN, Figure 2.)

“You see,” said Donald, “these wheels must not touch the ground, else
they will interfere with the speed of the car.”

“Here are the seats,” said Polly. “I worked them out while you were busy
with the other parts.”

Figures 10, 11 and 12 are the patterns of the seats. Figure 10 is the
front seat and Figure 12 the arm that divides it into two. The seat
proper is an oblong two inches and three-quarters long by one inch and
three-eighths wide. The ends and front that bend down and form the
supports are each three-quarters of an inch high. The back is one inch
high at the middle of each curve and three-quarters of an inch high when
it bends to form the arms. The arms, which are cut to fit the sides of
the auto, are one inch and three-eighths long. The middle arm (Figure
12) is one and one-quarter inches long at the bottom, three-quarters of
an inch high at the back and the laps are each one-quarter of an inch
wide.

Polly used paste to fasten the arm to the middle of the seat, putting
the paste on the laps, then she fitted the seat in the car, pasting the
sides of the seat to the sides of the car.

The back seat has no arms. It is the same length as the front seat, but
one-quarter of an inch wider. The supports are the same height. The back
at the middle is one and one-half inches high, while at the side edges
it is one and one-quarter inches high. When the back seat was pasted to
the back and sides of the car, Polly decided that she would make little
cushions and cover them with tan-colored tissue paper, to look like
leather.

“I have made the steering wheel,” said Donald, and he held it up.
(Figure 14.) Figure 15 shows how it is cut from bristleboard and then
marked off into a rim and four spokes. He used a wooden toothpick for
the column and a small cork to keep the wheel in place. First he forced
the small cork onto the toothpick, pushing it down not quite half an
inch, then he inserted the point of the stick into the small hole he had
previously punctured in the center of the wheel and pushed the wheel
down to rest on the cork. (Figure 14.)

With a large hatpin he pierced a hole slantingly at the base of the
dashboard, half an inch from the right side, all the way through the
frame of the auto; then he forced the lower end of the steering column
into the hole and it retained the proper slanting position.

“I didn’t forget the number,” said Polly, holding up a little oblong
card, to which she had attached narrow strips of yellow paper for
straps. On the card was printed the number of the Kraft Shop automobile.
(Figure 9.) With a drop of paste on the end of each strap Polly hung the
number to the back of the car. (Figure 17.)

The finished motor car is shown in Figure 18.

“Now we will test her speed,” said Donald, as he knelt on the floor and
with a sure, strong push sent the auto spinning the whole length of the
room.

“My, but it does go!” said Polly.

[Illustration: A vintage line illustration of a toy airship or dirigible
craft, labeled with a bold number 8. The multi-faceted, elongated brown
body of the airship is suspended from a string and features large,
bright red wings and tail fins. Below it hangs a small rectangular
gondola basket containing three small toy figures. A red-and-white
pinwheel propeller is attached to the front of the basket, and fine-line
cross-hatch shading indicates motion clouds in the background.]




                        Making the Bird Airship

                         By Adelia Belle Beard

                One of the Authors of Things Worth Doing


“How are we going to make an airship when we can’t fill the bag with
gas?” said Donald. “Why, make it of stiff paper and it will stand out
without gas,” Polly answered. “Yes, but I don’t see what is to hold it
up?” Donald objected. “We will make the airship first and then find
something to hold it up,” Polly replied, cheerfully.

“That’s a girl’s way of doing things,” laughed Donald.

“Well, it’s a good way,” retorted Polly.

Donald did not entirely agree with her, but Polly’s way seemed the only
way in this case. “Of course we will make the balloon cigar shaped, like
a dirigible, and have a propeller,” he said.

“Yes, and let us make wings, too; they will help keep it in the air,”
Polly added.

“And a tail for a rudder,” said Donald.

“Why, it will look just like a bird!” Polly exclaimed. “And we can call
it the ‘bird airship.’ That sounds nice, doesn’t it, Donald?”

“All right,” said Donald; “now I’ll make the balloon.”

“Oh, Donald, please let me do that. You always take the hardest parts
and I know I can do some of them,” protested Polly. “Besides, I have
thought of a way to make it.”

“Well, I don’t care if you make the balloon,” said Donald. “This is your
scheme, anyway. I’ll do the other things, but use this stiff manila
paper, Polly; it is good and strong.”

Polly was soon at work bending and clipping and shaping a pattern that
later she would correct and reduce to exact measurements. Donald watched
her while he waited to learn what size to make the wings, tail and
little passenger car.

“I am making the balloon in panels,” Polly informed him. “It is easier
than trying to keep it round, and I shall cut each end into points with
a bend-over on each point to fasten them together.”

“Going to glue it?”

“Why, no. I thought I would button it together with catches and slits.
It is hard to glue a thing of this kind, and one has to hold each part
so long for the glue to harden,” Polly answered.

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting and
folding a toy balloon component, labeled with a large number 2. The flat
pattern features multiple interconnected diamond-shaped segments
arranged vertically, separated by dashed folding lines and labeled
alphabetically from A to F. It includes instructional text annotations
such as 'Bend over', 'Top Edge', 'Bottom Edge', and tabs labeled 'Catch
J', 'Over L', 'Under M', and 'Over N'. A stylized line illustration of a
needle and a long piece of thread is shown woven through the center
sections.]

Figure 1 shows how Polly drew the pattern for her balloon after making
it out. She was very careful in her measurements, using a rule and
making the lines for the panels exactly one inch apart. “The sides won’t
fit if they are not even,” she said to herself.

[Illustration: When the balloon was put together it looked like this]

“That looks simple enough,” commented Donald.

When Polly cut the balloon out along the heavy lines it was like Figure
2.

By this time Donald, who had been experimenting with Polly’s first
pattern, had designed the wings (Figure 3), and the tail (Figure 5). He
directed Polly to cut slits for the wings in the position shown in PO,
OP, Figure 2. The slits P are exactly in the middle of the edge between
the first and second panels at the top and the first and second panels
at the bottom, and the slits O are in the middle of each second panel,
top and bottom. Each slit is three-quarters of an inch long.

“Now make slits for the tail in the top edges of the top point and the
fourth from the top point,” said Donald. “Make each slit five-eighths of
an inch from the tip.”

“How long a slit?” said Polly.

“Three-eighths of an inch,” returned Donald.

[Illustration: Donald cut the wings like this]

So Polly made the slits R and Q, Figure 2, and then bent the balloon
along the dotted lines. Donald made the wings (Figure 3) four and
one-eighth inches long from tip of catch to tip of wing. The neck of the
catch is one-half of an inch long and five-eighths of an inch wide, and
the catch from tip of point to neck is three-eighths of an inch deep.
Just above the neck of the catch the wing is seven-eighths of an inch
wide and at its broadest part it is three and one-quarter inches wide.

Donald bent in the points of the catch of one wing and pushed the catch
in through the slit O in the balloon and out through the slit P, then he
opened out the points of the catch.

“That will hold it steady,” he said, and fastened the other wing on in
the same way.

“Do you want to fasten the tail on now?” asked Polly.

“No. Put the balloon together first,” said Donald.

Then Polly began to shape her balloon by slipping the catches of the
bend-overs at the bottom L, M, N through the slits L, M, N. She lapped L
and N _over_ the panel and M _under_ the panel. This brought the catches
of L and N on the inside, and the catch of M on the outside. Then she
lapped the bend-over of the point B over the edge of the point A and
inserted the catch of the bend-over in the slit in the point A. The
catch of the bend-over of the point C she put through the slit in the
point B, and in the same way fastened D to C, E to D and F to E. This
brought all the points at one end of the balloon together, except F and
A, and these she secured by putting the catch J of the point A in
through the slit J and out through the slit K in the point F, which
brought the catch on the outside. The other end of the balloon she put
together in the same way, and it looked like Figure 4.

“This is the tail,” Donald said, holding up a piece of paper cut like
Figure 5. The tail is four and one-half inches long, two and one-quarter
inches wide at the end and five-eighths of an inch wide where it joins
the body. Donald cut a slit half an inch long in the middle of the
narrow end and then cut out a small, wedge-shaped piece at the end of
the slit. The wedge is five-eighths of an inch long and a trifle over
one-quarter of an inch at the base.

[Illustration: The tail acts as a rudder]

“What is that pointed hole for,” said Polly.

“The end of the balloon fits in that when these two square catches (Q,
R, Figure 5) are put through the slits you made for the tail,” Donald
answered. (Q, R, Figure 2.) Polly looked for the slits and found that
one was on the top edge and one on the bottom edge of the back end of
the balloon.

“Now we will hitch it on,” said Donald, taking the balloon from Polly
and adjusting the tail. He opened the slit between the catches, pushed
the catch Q down through the top slit Q, and the catch R up through the
bottom slit R, and the tail could not slide out of place. “The wings
must stand out at the sides,” he added, bending each wing down where it
joined the balloon.

“Is this the car?” Polly inquired, taking up the little box. (Figure 6.)

“Yes,” said Donald, “but I haven’t put the propeller on yet.”

The car Donald made is pointed at each end. It is three inches long from
point to point, one inch wide and one inch high. Each side of the car is
two inches long and the ends are double. Figure 7 is the pattern of the
car. The entire length of one side of Figure 7 is five inches, while the
entire length of the other side is but four and three-quarters inches.
The difference is at the ends. The end divisions on the left of Figure 7
are three-quarters of an inch from top to bottom, while the end
divisions on the right are only five-eighths of an inch from top to
bottom. The other divisions of the two ends are exactly alike, each
three-quarters of an inch from top to bottom. The slits V, W, T, U, are
one-eighth of an inch from the inner edge and are three-eighths of an
inch long. V and U are one-eighth of an inch from the end edges and the
slits W and T are one-quarter of an inch from V and U.

Donald made a catch at either end of the left side of Figure 7 (Y, X).
The necks of these catches are one-quarter of an inch long. Then he bent
up the points V, W, U, T, along the dotted lines, which made the floor
of the car pointed at each end. He bent the sides up and the ends in,
according to the dotted lines. The points V, W, U, T, he pushed through
the corresponding slits from the inside of the car, V through V, W
through W, U through U and T through T. Then he fitted the other end
pieces on the outside, covering the points, and fastened the catches Y
and X in the slits Y and X. This held the point securely between the
double ends and made all snug and tight.

[Illustration: This is the pattern of Donald’s little car]

“I can put the ropes on now,” said Polly, and threading a needle with
soft cotton twine she pushed the needle through the double end of the
car just beyond the side bend and near the top edge, as shown in Figure
6. She drew the string through and tied it at the end. Threading the
needle again, she fastened another string to the other end of the car;
then, with the needle still threaded, she took a stitch in the bottom
edge of the balloon at the middle of one of the bend-overs. The place is
indicated by the two dots on Figure 4. Bringing the needle down again,
she ran it through the opposite side of the car, unthreaded it and tied
the end of the string to the car.

This made a loop which passed from one side of the car through the
bottom edge of the balloon to the other side of the car. The string used
for the loop was three and one-half inches long. The other end of the
car Polly attached to the balloon in the same way and the little
passenger car hung suspended from the balloon by four ropes. (Figure 8.)

“I have the propeller ready now,” said Donald.

“What a good idea to use a pinwheel for a propeller!” exclaimed Polly.
“How will you fasten it on?”

[Illustration: Polly put the ropes on the little car]

“This way,” said Donald, and he ran a hatpin through the pinwheel,
pushed a small cork up on the pin, leaving one inch between the cork and
the head of the pin so that the wheel would turn easily. (Figure 9.)
Then he forced the pin in through the middle of the forward end of the
car and out the middle of the back, allowing a space of one-quarter of
an inch between the cork and the car. (Figure 8.)

“Why, Donald, you have put the propeller in front of the car!” cried
Polly.

“That is all right,” Donald assured her. “It won’t spin around if we
have it at the back; and, besides, Santos Dumont, who has made some of
the finest airships in the world, put the propeller at the front of some
of them. He says it draws the ship along instead of pushing it.”

Donald made the pinwheel for his propeller of a two-inch square of
paper. He folded the square diagonally first one way, then the other,
and cut slits along the folds almost to the center, as I am sure you all
know how to do. Then he took up the alternate points and, turning them
over to the center, ran the pin through them and the center of the wheel
in the way you have done scores of times.

“Now, Polly,” said Donald, “how are you going to make the thing fly?”

“I will show you,” said Polly, and she threaded a needle with a piece of
strong black linen thread ten inches long. Then she took a stitch
through the top edge of the balloon at the forward end, drew the thread
through and tied the end fast. She took a stitch through the top edge of
the balloon at the other end, where she tied the last end of the thread.
This made a loop extending upward from the top of the balloon. (Figure
8.)

In Figure 2 you will see just where the needle was put through the edge
of the balloon. At the middle of the loop Polly tied another piece of
thread about two feet long, and at the end of the long thread she tied a
short loop.

“Watch it now, Donald!” she cried, as, grasping the short loop tightly
in one hand and holding it at arm’s length, she began to swing the
airship around in a circle. Slowly it went at first; then, gathering
speed, it began to fly in earnest. The little propeller spun around
busily and the ship seemed sailing by its own power. As the supporting
thread was black, it was hardly visible, and the wings that were lifted
and lowered by the movements of the ship appeared, like a bird’s wings,
to buoy it up.

[Illustration: The propeller is made of a pinwheel on a short hatpin]

“Isn’t it perfectly lovely?” Polly exclaimed. “See how I can make it dip
and rise again, just like a real airship.”

“Yes, it is certainly good,” he said; “and one of the best things about
it is the way the tail acts as a rudder. Don’t you see how it keeps the
ship going always forward? Here—let me see if I can make it back.” And,
taking the thread from Polly’s hand, he swung the ship in a straight
line, first one way then the other, but at each end of the course the
balloon turned and started over the route again, bow forward.

“It is all right, Polly,” he declared. “Put some of your little dolls in
the car for passengers and we will give them a ride.”




                               Sand Toys

                         By Adelia Belle Beard

             One of the Authors of Little Folks’ Handy Book


“What can we do with this beautiful sand, Donald?” asked Polly as she
let the dry white sand of the beach sift through her fingers.

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting and
folding a toy component, labeled with a large number 2. The flat,
rectangular pattern features the handwritten text 'Sand Wheel Bucket'
across the center. It includes solid lines for cutting, a horizontal
dashed line for folding near the top, and various measurement
annotations such as 2 inches, 2 ¾ inches, and 1 ½ inches. Two side tabs
are marked with the letter G, and two small vertical slots are labeled
H.]

“Make a sand wheel,” answered Donald with sudden inspiration. “And we
can do it now.”

Polly was more than willing, so they were soon hard at work in their
out-of-door Kraft Shop on the back porch of their summer home.

“First we must make the wheel and next a high reservoir to hold the
sand,” Donald announced.

“I will make the wheel if it doesn’t have to be wood,” said Polly.

“Bristolboard will do, and the wheel must be a good deal like a water
wheel, you know, Polly.”

“Yes, of course,” and Polly placed a smooth piece of bristolboard on the
table and took her school compass from the drawer, while Donald
disappeared into the house in search of a flat-sided cocoa can which he
had decided would answer for his reservoir.

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting out a
small T-shaped toy component, labeled with a large number 3. The shape
is outlined with thick black lines and contains handwritten measurement
annotations, including '1 inch' across the wide top section, '⅜ in.' on
the upper side edge, '½ in.' on the vertical side edge, and '½ inch'
along the bottom edge.]

Polly made her wheel in this way: First she drew a straight, horizontal
line six inches long on the bristolboard (E B, Figure 1), then she put
the point of her compass directly on the middle of the line and drew a
circle that just touched each end of the line. This gave her a circle
six inches in diameter. (Figure 1.) Keeping the point of her compass on
the middle of the line, she drew another circle inside the first, making
the second circle five and one-quarter inches in diameter and
three-eighths of an inch from the outer circle. Inside the second
circle, with the point of the compass still on the middle of the line,
she drew a third circle two inches in diameter. This left just one and
five-eighths inches between the two inner circles. Dividing the second
circle into six equal parts, she proceeded to draw the lines F C, A D,
and a little to the right of these, also by the side of the horizontal
line, she drew parallel lines. “These,” Polly explained, “are the slots
to hold the steps of my wheel.”

“Buckets, Polly, not steps,” protested Donald.

“Well, buckets; I am going to have six buckets between the two wheels.”

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting a large
wheel component, labeled with a large number 1. The template consists of
a large outer circle and a concentric smaller inner circle connected by
six radiating spoke lines. The spokes are indexed with the letters A, B,
C, D, E, and F. A horizontal dashed line splits the inner circle,
aligned with spokes E and B. Annotation measurements include a total
outer diameter of 6 inches, a spoke length of 1 ⅝ inches, and an outer
rim width of ⅜ in.]

“There is only one wheel; the sides are called disks,” again corrected
Donald.

“Disks, then, and I will fasten the buckets on with bolts. You see, the
outer edge of each bucket is to be turned up to hold the sand. I suppose
that is why it is called a bucket,” said Polly.

“You know what you are doing, go ahead,” said Donald; and Polly went
ahead. She made another disk exactly like Figure 1 and cut both out
carefully. She used a sharp pocketknife for cutting the slots and a
ruler to guide the knife along the lines. Then she made her buckets, six
of them, like Figure 2. First she drew a square that measured exactly
two inches on each edge. This was for the bottom of the bucket. On each
side of the square she added extensions three-eighths of an inch wide
and one and one-half inches long, placing them at equal distances from
the top and bottom edges of the square. (G G, Figure 2.) At the top of
the square she added an oblong one-half inch wide and extending all the
way across. The dotted line in Figure 2 shows where this oblong is to be
bent up to form the front of the bucket. Along each side line of the
square, at equal distances from the ends of the extension, she made
slots five-eighths of an inch long. (H H, Figure 2.) The bolts, two for
each bucket, she made like Figure 3. The upper part of each bolt was one
inch long and three-eighths of an inch wide and the lower part was half
an inch square.

[Illustration: A vintage line illustration by Adelia Belle Beard showing
an intricate, completed toy mechanism operating on a multi-tiered wooden
platform. A large sand wheel mechanism on the left features a bright red
hopper at the top. The wheel's axle is connected by strings and pulleys
to a spinning carousel platform with three small paper sailboats, a
small red-wheeled cart traveling up a wooden ramp on the right, and a
red basket containing two small toy figures hanging from a string below.
The artist's signature is in the bottom left corner.]

“It is all ready now. See how easy it is to put together, Donald,” said
Polly, as she bent up the front of a bucket and slipped one of its
extensions through a slot in one of the disks and the other extension
through a slot in the other disk, and then secured them in place by
sliding a bolt through the slot in each extension. (Fig. 7.)

“Better glue those bolts down,” said Donald. “When the wheel turns fast
they may drop out.”

By this time Donald had gathered together all the materials for his sand
tower. For the base of the tower he used an empty cigar box, eight
inches long and two and one-quarter inches deep, and for the reservoir a
cocoa can four inches high and two inches wide at the narrow sides. On
each of the wide sides of the can, about one and one-half inches from
the top and at equal distances from the side edges, he made a hole by
driving a large wire nail through the tin. (I, Figure 4.) In the bottom
he cut with a can opener a large hole, as shown in Figure 4. This hole
is not in the middle, but at the back, left-hand corner as the can
stands upside down. (Figure 4.)

“The funnel goes through this hole,” Donald said. “I have made a funnel
for the sand because it holds more than the can and because only a part
of the sand will run out of the can without it.”

Donald made the funnel of a piece of strong paper twelve inches square.
He twisted this into a cornucopia and then trimmed it off evenly at the
top and cut the point off at the bottom. He enlarged the bottom opening
several times in order to allow a sufficient flow of sand to turn the
wheel easily. The lapped edges he pasted securely together. To hold the
reservoir up he whittled out of an old shingle two uprights like Figure
5. Each upright was thirteen and one-half inches long and three-quarters
of an inch wide, except at the top, where it widened out to one inch.
Three-quarters of an inch from the top edge he bored a hole large enough
to admit a very large, spikelike wire nail a little over four inches
long and quite thick.

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting a long,
slender toy lever or arm component, labeled with a large number 5. The
elongated shape features a slightly wider, contoured head on the left
containing a small circular hole. Handwritten measurement annotations
include '13 ½ inches' along the bottom edge, '1 INCH' vertically on the
left head, '1 ¼ inch' on the top-left edge, and '¾ INCH' on the right
end.]

“I am going to spike these on,” Donald said, thrusting the large nail
through the hole in one upright, then through both holes in the can and
through the hole in the other upright. “It is a little loose, though,”
he continued, shaking the can.

“Put a cork on the end of the spike,” said Polly; “that will hold it.”
Donald took her advice and pushed a large, flat cork up on the nail
until it fitted snugly against the tin and held it firmly in place. Then
he took up the cigar box. “Will you make a hole in this for the shaft of
the wheel, Polly? Put it just here,” he said, indicating a spot two and
one-half inches from the top and half an inch from the left-hand edge as
the box stands on end. (J, Figure 6.) “Bore it with a hot wire nail; it
will make a smoother surface than the gimlet.”

Then Polly, holding her hot nail with a pair of pincers, burned a small
round hole in the cigar box and also the hole K in the front upright,
Figure 8. This front upright, which was to hold the outer end of the
wheel shaft, Donald had whittled from a shingle. He made it six and
one-quarter inches high, with a base three and one-half inches wide.
Polly was careful to have the hole in the upright the same distance from
the bottom of the box, so that the shaft of the wheel would be perfectly
horizontal when put through the two holes. Donald used small wire nails
for fastening the side uprights to the cigar box. He removed the lid of
the box, so that he could easily get at the inside, then drove the nails
through the uprights into the side, top and bottom edges of the box.
(Figure 6.)

[Illustration: The sand tower was not difficult to make]

“I think we will have to nail the tower and other things to a board,” he
said. “They will never stand firm on the sand.” A suitable piece of
board could not be found, but Polly begged an old pastry board from the
cook and that made a fine flooring for their machinery. Donald stood the
sand tower on the board at the left-hand front corner, with the cigar
box base just six and one-half inches from the front edge and four
inches from the side edge of the board. “I can tack this down from the
inside of the box,” he said, and using two good sized carpet tacks he
drove them through the end of the box into the board. “Now get a shaft
for your wheel, Polly, and we will put the wheel up before I nail the
front upright in place.”

[Illustration: The wheel and shaft turn together]

Polly had secured for the shaft of her wheel a long, slender paint brush
handle. The brush was a No. 2 bristle oil paint brush, and had cost five
cents when new. Exactly at the center of each disk of the wheel she made
a puncture and then gradually and with great care pushed her shaft
through until the wheel was in the middle and on the largest part of the
shaft. Then she cut a medium-sized cork into three slices. The two
largest slices she pushed up on the shaft, one from either end, and
before settling them in place she put a little glue on the shaft close
to the wheel as well as on the inner side of the corks, then pushed the
corks up over the glue on the shaft and close against the wheel. In this
way the shaft, the corks and the wheel were glued together. “They must
all turn together,” Polly remarked, “and not like a wheel on an axle.”
On the end of the shaft which was to rest in the hole in the box, she
slid the remaining slice of cork, leaving it within three-quarters of an
inch of the cork fastened to the wheel. This was to keep the shaft from
running too far into the box.

“Be sure you get the right end of the shaft into the box,” Donald
cautioned. “Remember, the edges of the buckets bend down when the left
side of the wheel is toward you.” (Figure 7.)

“I know,” said Polly. “Now I am going to put this large glass bead on to
keep the cork from touching the box. The bead is so smooth and round it
will turn easily against the wood.” So Polly put her bead on the shaft
and slipped the end of the shaft through the box. “I will put a bead on
the inside, too,” she added, “and then a cork to keep it from slipping
off, and it will have to be a very small cork or it will rub against the
side of the box and the shaft won’t turn.” (Figure 7.)

[Illustration: The front upright]

Meanwhile Donald had been devising a way to hold the front upright
erect. “I have it now,” he exclaimed, and cutting a piece of wood half
an inch wide and half an inch thick into two pieces four and one-half
inches long, he nailed them to the front and back of the lower edge of
the upright; then sliding the free end of the shaft through the hole in
the upright, he settled the upright in place in front of the box, a
little to the left, so that the hole in the box and the hole in the
upright were directly opposite each other and the shaft went through
true and straight. Then he nailed the supports to the board. (Figure 7.)

When the children adjusted the funnel and filled it with sand they found
that to make it work perfectly it was necessary to tilt the can forward
in order to send the stream of sand near the outer edge of the wheel,
and that something must be invented to hold the can in that position, so
Donald quickly whittled out the little brace. (Figure 9.) The brace is
five inches long at the bottom, two and one-quarter inches long at the
top and one and five-eighths inches high. The V-shaped notch is one inch
from the front end.

[Illustration: A brace]

Fitting the back edge of the can into the notch of the brace, Donald
adjusted the brace on top of the box so that the can was held at the
required angle and the falling sand struck the wheel in the right place;
then with two small nails he fastened it on securely. (Figure 6.) Donald
also slipped a thin strip of wood between the back of the funnel and the
large nail. The wood rested on the bottom of the can and extended up to
the top of the funnel.

[Illustration: A vintage line illustration demonstrating the assembly
diagram for a spinning toy mechanism, labeled with a large number 10.
The central diagram shows a vertical stack of components resting on a
grainy 'Block of Wood'. A central pin or nail goes down through a large
'Pasteboard Disk', a 'Belt Spool' marked 'Glue', a 'Winding Spool'
marked 'Glue Together', a 'Writing Paper Washer', and a 'Writing Paper
Cone'. To the right, two isolated parts are shown: a long nail labeled M
and a flat washer labeled N.]

“That will strengthen it,” he said. “The wheel works all right; now we
will make it move things.”

“Let us have a merry-go-round,” Polly suggested.

“Yes, and a mine. The wheel will draw the miners up in a bucket, and
then I think when the merry-go-round turns it will pull a wagon uphill,
too,” Donald answered.

[Illustration: The merry-go-round is built like this]

“And everything will move at once,” Polly cried delightedly.

“We will have to have a belt spool and a winding spool on the end of
this shaft,” Donald said. “The belt spool will connect it with the
merry-go-round and the winding spool will draw up the miner’s bucket.
The spools must be fastened to the shaft, too, so that they will turn
with it.”

As the shaft was too slender to fit the holes in the spools, Polly
wrapped it with a strip of newspaper. (L, Figure 7.) She used newspaper
because it was soft and would cling. She cut a strip about twelve inches
long and two inches wide. This she covered on one side with glue; then
sticking one end to the shaft about half an inch from the upright, she
wrapped the paper tightly around the shaft, making a number of layers,
which, glued together, became a solid mass. Donald had selected two
spools and glued the ends together—a medium-sized spool for the belt
spool and a small spool for the winding spool. When the glue had
hardened on the spools and on the paper roll he covered the outside of
the roll and the inside of the spools with glue and pushed the spools up
on the shaft until they covered the paper roll and stuck fast. (Figure
7.)

“Now cut a round bristolboard disk for the merry-go-round, Polly,”
Donald said, “while I rig up a stand for it.”

[Illustration: The cone]

The disk Polly made was seven and one-half inches in diameter with a
round hole in the center a little larger than the hole in a spool, and
while she was drawing the circle and cutting it out Donald found a
level-sided block of wood, two and one-quarter inches high, for the base
of his stand. To this block he nailed small strips of wood, one on
either side like the supports on the front upright. (Figure 10.) Then,
selecting a medium-sized spool, two smaller spools and a buttonhole
twist spool to make the shaft of the merry-go-round the proper height,
he glued the two smallest spools together and the larger and buttonhole
twist spools together. On top of the smallest spools he glued the disk.
Taking a second spikelike wire nail, longer than the one used on the
sand tower (M, Figure 10), he slipped it through the disk and the two
smallest spools, then stopped and thought a moment. “A washer will have
to go on now,” he said, “to make these upper spools turn easily on the
lower ones.” So he cut a washer like N, Figure 10, from a piece of very
glossy writing paper, making it a little larger than the end of the
spools. “I’ll glue these two lower spools to the block before I put the
nail through,” he continued as he covered the bottom of the buttonhole
twist spool with glue and fitted it on top of the block exactly in the
middle. He waited a while for the glue to dry; then, placing his paper
washer on top of the large spool, he dropped the point of the nail down
through the washer and the spools and drove the nail into the block far
enough to hold it quite steady, but leaving enough space between the top
of the disk and the head of the nail to let the disk turn freely. “We
will put the merry-go-round here,” Donald went on, as he placed the
block directly at the front edge of the board about seven and one-half
inches to the right of the sand tower. “It won’t do to have it too far
from the wheel.” Then, driving nails through the strips of wood on
either side of the block, he fastened the merry-go-round in place. “Now
get a piece of tape for the belt, Polly, and we will make her spin,” he
said. “Get cotton tape; linen is too slippery.”

Polly returned with a piece of cotton tape a little over a quarter of an
inch wide and about twenty-five inches long. Donald passed it over the
belt spool on the wheel shaft and around the belt spool on the
merry-go-round shaft (Figure 11) and pinned the lapped ends together.
Then Polly poured sand in the funnel of the sand tower and Donald
watched the working of the belt, tightening or loosening it as it seemed
to require. When it was in perfect working order Polly sewed the ends of
the tape together, making a lapped seam, as in Figure 11. Then she
proceeded to fasten a piece of thread about a yard and one-quarter long
to each of the winding spools. First she placed one end of the thread
lengthwise on the spool and then glued a strip of paper around the spool
and over the thread. Looking up from her work, she found Donald drawing
a circle on a piece of writing paper.

“I am making a cone,” he explained, “to fit over the lower spools and
prevent the thread from catching on the block.”

Donald made the circle for his cone six and one-half inches in diameter,
and at the center he cut a round hole large enough to fit around the
spool. Out of this circle he cut a pie-shaped slice four and
three-quarters inches wide at the outer edge. (Figure 12.) Adjusting the
cone on the lower part of the winding spool, he lapped the edges and
pasted them together. The cone stood out beyond the side edges, but did
not touch the block.

“I am going to put these on the merry-go-round, they will look so pretty
‘as they sail, as they sail,’” chanted Polly, showing four little boats
she had cut from writing paper and painted in gay colors with watercolor
paints. Polly had made the boats with extensions at the bottom, which
she slit up through the middle. Bending one half out on one side and the
other half out on the other side, she pasted the extensions to the top
of the disk near the edge, placing the boats at equal distances apart.
By this time Donald had begun a little wagon, making it of a match box
by cutting writing paper wheels and pinning them on to the box with
ordinary pins, one pin for each wheel. “The wagon must not be heavy,” he
said, “because our machinery is light.” The children chose a small,
light toy basket to use as a miner’s bucket, and then made two paper
doll miners to put in the bucket and a paper doll lady to ride in the
wagon. The end of the thread hanging from the winding spool on the wheel
shaft they tied to the handle of the basket and the thread fastened to
the winding spool on the shaft of the merry-go-round they tied to the
front of the wagon. Then they carried the whole thing out on the beach
and set it up on an empty box which they had put on top of a little hill
of sand to raise it high above the ground. Donald found a smooth board,
one end of which he propped up directly under the merry-go-round and on
this he set the little wagon, drawing it down the full length of the
thread. Polly scooped a hole in the sand for a mine and dropped the
little basket in it. Then, all being ready, Polly held her hand under
the funnel for a stopper, Donald filled the funnel with _dry_ sand,
Polly took away her hand, the sand began to run out in a steady stream,
the wheel whirled round, the merry-go-round spun merrily, fluttering the
tissue-paper pennants on the little boats and tipping them most
naturally. The miner’s basket emerged from the mine and slowly ascended,
and the little wagon climbed up the incline, bearing its lady passenger.

[Illustration: A vintage stylized line illustration of a toy electric
trolley car or streetcar, labeled with a large number 7. The muted pink
body of the trolley has small wheels, a row of windows, and a black side
banner reading 'BROADWAY' in white text. A long pole extends from the
roof to meet an overhead wire. At the bottom, text inside a curved line
reads 'Invented by Adelia Belle Beard' and 'All Rights Reserved'.]




                       How to Make a Trolley Car

                         By Adelia Belle Beard

                One of the Authors of Things Worth Doing

                         [All rights reserved]


“Polly!” called Donald, leaning over the banisters, “I’ve a jolly good
idea this morning and I want you to help me.” Polly had been romping
with her two fuzzy little kittens in the lower hall, but she promptly
deserted them and mounted the stairs on a run.

“What is it?” she cried, appearing at the Kraft Shop door before Donald
had reached his seat at the table.

“What do you think of making a little trolley car?” he replied.

“One that will go on a real trolley wire? I think that will be just
loads of fun. How long can we have the line?”

“As long as we like, but I will use linen thread instead of wire; it is
easier to manage.”

“And we will use spools for wheels, of course, and bristolboard for the
car,” said Polly.

[Illustration: The trolley car runs on its own trolley]

“Yes, and I’m going to make as much of the car in one piece as I can.”

“Then I don’t see what I can do,” Polly objected.

“Oh, there will have to be some separate parts,” Donald hastened to say.
“You can make the little top roof and the trolley pole, and you can get
the spools and thread and two little sticks for axles. That will be a
big help. Now look at my pattern; you see, I’ve worked it down until it
fits into an oblong, fourteen inches long and seven and one-half inches
wide. This takes in the main part of the car, but not the platforms.
(Figure 1.) Now I will carry these two lines (J H and J L) down to make
a platform and the upright front of the platform. I don’t suppose it is
called a dashboard.”

“Where will you put the other platform?” inquired Polly.

“At the upper right hand corner,” said Donald. Then Donald drew below
the lines H H and above the lines G G the platform which, for lack of
space, is given separately here, but which must be traced and made a
part of the pattern by being fitted out at each end of the car.

“This projection,” (M) Donald continued, “is to fasten the front of the
platform to the roof.”

“You haven’t made a place for the wheels,” said Polly.

“You’re right, I haven’t. We will put them here,” and Donald drew the
axle guards, marked F. “This is the place for the doors,” he went on,
indicating the spaces at either end of the two sides of the car. “The
top part of the door is glass, you know,” he said. On the door at the
upper left-hand corner (Figure 2) he made the catch B and on the middle
line of the lower door he cut the slot B. The inner edge of the slot is
on the line, the outer edge is left of the line. The order was reversed
on the right-hand side. (Figure 2.) Here he put the catch (A) on the
lower door and the slot (A) on the upper door.

“If you will tell me how large you want the little top roof I’ll make it
now,” said Polly.

“All right. I’ll draw a place for it, then I’ll know,” and on the top of
the car Donald drew the oblong two and one-quarter inches wide. The top
line of the oblong was three-eighths of an inch below the line I I, and
the bottom line of the oblong was three-eighths of an inch above the
line J J, Figure 2.

[Illustration: Wheel, axle and hub of the car]

“Now I have it,” he said. “You must make the little top roof just eight
inches long and two and one-quarter inches wide. Draw an oblong exactly
that size, you know, for the top. I want it to stand up half an inch
above the car, so you must add half an inch at each side and each end,
with bend-overs and catches at each corner to hold the sides and ends
together, and slits in the sides for the catches. Then make large
catches to hold the top roof to the other roof, one catch at each end of
each side and one in the middle of each end. (Figure 3.) Be sure and
make the side catches half an inch from the end of the oblong.”

“You mean,” said Polly, “that the neck of the catch must be half an inch
from the corner when the sides and ends are bent down.”

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting and
folding the main body and roof of a toy trolley car or streetcar. The
unrolled flat layout features a long, central rectangular panel labeled
'Roof' with dimensions '8 inches' by '2 ¼ inch'. Flanking the roof are
two side panels showing a long row of windows and panels labeled 'DOOR'.
The template outlines cutting paths with solid lines and folding creases
with dashed lines. It includes various lettered tabs labeled A, B, C, D,
F, G, H, I, J, N, and O, along with measurement annotations such as '3
inches', '2 ¼ inches', '1 ½ inches', and '2 inches'.]

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting and
folding additional components of a toy trolley car. The diagram features
three distinct flat patterns vertically arranged. The top pattern is a
rectangular piece labeled 'Floor of Platform of Trolley Car' and 'Front
of Platform', including horizontal dashed folding lines, an inner box
marked 'Cut this out' measuring 2 inches by 1 ¼ inches, and a bottom tab
labeled M. The middle pattern is a long, narrow strip labeled 'Trolley
Pole' measuring 7 ¼ inches, terminating in a solid circle on the left
and a hollow ring on the right. The bottom pattern is a small stepped
piece labeled '1 inch Bolt' with a 1 ½ inches base width.]

“That’s it, and make the neck half an inch wide and the catch about one
inch long from end to end. Don’t forget the hole in the middle of the
roof for the trolley pole,” Donald added. “Make it not quite half an
inch in diameter. (Figure 3.) Then Donald drew slots for the catches in
the oblong on top of his car, placing them to correspond with the
catches on the top roof and making them a little more than half an inch
long. He placed each side slot just half an inch from the ends of the
oblong, and all inside the boundary line.

“Now I will draw in the windows, eight on each side,” he announced,
spacing them off carefully with a rule. He made each window
three-quarters of an inch wide and seven-eighths of an inch high,
allowing one-quarter of an inch space between. Then on the front of each
platform he drew an opening two inches wide and one and one-quarter
inches high. On a line with the lower edge of the front of the bottom,
in the middle of the projection, he drew a slot a little over one inch
long (Figure 2), and on the roof extension at each end of the car he
made a slot a little over two inches long, C and D, page 41. These slots
are one and one-quarter inches from the end lines of the middle oblong
on the roof.

“My car is ready to cut out now,” said Donald.

“So is my top roof,” said Polly. “Is the trolley pole all right?”

Polly had made the pole seven and one-half inches long and one-quarter
of an inch wide, with a ring at one end five-eighths of an inch in
diameter, and a ball as the other end one-half an inch in diameter.
(Figure 4.)

Donald pronounced the pole “first rate.” “Put the ball through the hole,
Polly,” he said. So when Polly had cut out the roof according to the
heavy lines and bent down the sides and ends according to the dotted
lines (Figure 3), she turned in one edge of the ball and pushed it
through the round hole in the roof. When she flattened the ball out
again it could not slip through the hole, but the pole could be moved in
any direction.

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting and
folding additional components of a toy trolley car. The diagram features
three distinct flat patterns vertically arranged. The top pattern is a
rectangular piece labeled 'Floor of Platform of Trolley Car' and 'Front
of Platform', including horizontal dashed folding lines, an inner box
marked 'Cut this out' measuring 2 inches by 1 ¼ inches, and a bottom tab
labeled M. The middle pattern is a long, narrow strip labeled 'Trolley
Pole' measuring 7 ¼ inches, terminating in a solid circle on the left
and a hollow ring on the right. The bottom pattern is a small stepped
piece labeled '1 inch Bolt' with a 1½ inches base width.]

Donald cut out his car according to the heavy lines and bent it
according to the dotted lines. Both he and Polly remembered to score the
dotted lines lightly with the edge of a pocket knife before bending
them. The sides of the car Donald bent down; the doors he bent inward to
meet under the projecting roof; the platform he turned out and the front
of the platform up. Before fastening the catches and projections in
their slots he fitted the top roof on the car, putting the catches
marked X through the slots marked X. First he bent both ends of each
catch inward, which made them narrow enough to slide through the slots,
then he pushed the catches through the slots, settled the top roof
firmly on the main roof and opened the catches on the inside of the car.
When this was done he fastened the doors by putting the catch B through
the slot B in the opposite half of one door, and the catch A through the
slot A on the opposite half of the other door. The projections at the
top of the fronts of the two platforms he pushed through their
corresponding slots in the roof.

“Hello! we’ve forgotten the bolts for these projections,” Donald
suddenly exclaimed.

“I’ll make them while you put on the wheels,” said Polly. Then she cut
two bolts like Figure 5, making them one and one-half inches wide at the
bottom and one inch wide at the top. When the bolts were slipped through
the slots in the projections C and D they held the fronts of the
platforms securely in place. The two spools that Polly had selected for
wheels were like Figure 6, each about two inches high, and the slender,
round sticks, pointed at each end, were four inches long. Donald slipped
a spool on one of the sticks, then pushed one end of the stick through
the middle of one of the axle guards from the inside, and the other end
of the stick through the middle of the opposite axle guard.

“Here are the hubs,” said Polly, producing four small corks. Then Donald
pushed a cork on each end of the stick. The corks kept the axle from
slipping out of place. He adjusted the other spool in the same way, then
threaded a large needle with a piece of linen thread several yards long
and pushed the needle through the front of the platform below the
opening at the place marked with a dot in Figure 2. A large knot on the
inside of the front of the platform held the string in place and the
needle was again threaded with a long thread to fasten on the other end
of the car. (Figure 7.)

“Now for the trolley wire,” exclaimed Polly. “How shall we put that up?”

“This way,” said Donald, and he placed two chairs at opposite ends of
the room, then he cut a piece of thread a little longer than the space
between the chairs and tied one end to the top rung of one chair. The
other end of the thread he passed through the ring in the top of the
trolley pole and then tied it to the top rung of the other chair.

“There we are. Now, Polly, you sit down by the chair and take hold of
one thread, and I will sit by this chair and hold the other thread. When
you pull your thread the car will run all the way to your chair; when I
pull my thread back it will come to me.”

The children kept the little car running back and forth for some time
and were vastly entertained. When they wished, they had it make several
stops to allow imaginary passengers to get off and on, and again it was
an express car and went from one end of the line to the other without
stopping. Finally Donald was called away to go an errand and Polly
discovered that she could work the car entirely alone by running the
loose ends of the threads over the lower rungs of the chairs, tying the
two ends together and pulling the thread first one way, then the other.
Figure 8 shows the trolley in working order with the threads tied
together in the way Polly devised.




                   Making Toy Furniture Without Glue

                         By Adelia Belle Beard


“I am going to have a Kraft Shop, a Kraft Shop!” sang Polly, noisily
pulling out the old and much-battered table in the children’s play room
and then skipping excitedly around to hunt up scissors, knife, ruler and
pencils, the tools she thought would be necessary. Donald watched
proceedings over the top of his book. Things were beginning to look
interesting. “What do you know about Kraft Shops?”

“Everything. Mother told me and, besides, I went through a real Kraft
Shop last summer and saw all the people at work.”

“What were they making?”

“Why—er—I am not sure that I quite remember just what they were making,
but I know they do make beau-ti-ful things, and all with their hands,
too. They don’t use machinery at all. That’s what I’m going to do, and
you, too, Donald. I don’t want to be a Krafter all by myself. Mother
said it would be nice if you and I started a home Kraft Shop and made
toys and all sorts of things.”

Donald’s book closed with a snap. “All right, I’m ready. What shall we
try first?”

[Illustration: Polly’s chair. Figure 1]

“Suppose we make toy furniture and call it—oh, I know, we will call it
KraftShop furniture, and pretend that it’s real.”

“First rate; but I’ll have to get some wood.”

“No you won’t; we can make it of this cardboard; it will be easier to
cut, anyway.”

“That is bristolboard, but it is better than cardboard, stronger and
tougher, you know, and we can put the furniture together with pegs, just
as if it were of wood.”

[Illustration: Donald’s table. Figure 2]

“Yes, yes!” said Polly, jumping up and down in her enthusiasm. “That’s
it. I was sure you would know how. What will you make?”

“A table, I think—a library table.”

“Then I’ll make an armchair, and, Donald, it is going to have rockers,
too.”

“How about bookshelves, Polly? They would make the library set
complete.”

“Dear me! Of course we must have the shelves. Now let’s begin this very
minute.”

“Well, get the furniture advertisements you saved—the pictures, you
know. They will give us ideas, but we won’t have to copy them exactly.”

After many experiments and alterations, and with much fitting together
of the various parts, Donald finished his table, Polly her chair, and
together they worked out the bookshelves, using bolts for the shelves,
instead of pegs, to hold them together. Here they are, Figures 1, 2, and
16.

[Illustration: The Kraft Shop table]

“They are good and strong,” Donald said.

“And so pretty,” Polly added.

“And we didn’t use a bit of glue,” continued Donald, proudly.

“And I can put cushions in my chair if I like—real huffy, puffy
cushions.”

“And little books on the shelves,” suggested Donald.

“Oh!” breathed Polly, estatically; “and, Donald, we can take them all
apart and pack them in a flat box. Isn’t that fine?”

“It just is.”

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting and
folding a toy furniture piece. The layout features four distinct flat
patterns. On the left is a large vertical rectangle labeled 'SHELF' with
small tabs marked C at the top and bottom, indexed with a large number
5. On the right is a wide panel labeled 'END' with an arched cutout at
the bottom, vertical dashed fold lines isolating two side sections
labeled 'LEG', a horizontal slot labeled C, and tabs labeled A and B,
indexed with a large number 4. Two small stepped connector keys are
shown below, indexed with the numbers 6 and 7.]

Donald made the top of his table first. With careful measurements he
drew on the smooth bristolboard an oblong eight and one-quarter inches
long and six inches wide (Fig. 3), which he cut out with the large
shears. Within that oblong he drew another five and three-quarter inches
long and three and one-half inches wide. This left a border one and
one-quarter inches wide all around the center oblong. At the sides and
ends of the inner oblong he drew lines for slits, as shown in Figure 3.
The inside edge of each slit is _on_ the outline of the oblong, and the
outside edge _outside_ of the oblong. The end slits (AA) are two and
one-eighth inches long and the side slits (BB BB) are seven-eighths of
an inch long, and extend a little beyond the end lines of the inner
oblong. He cut these slits with a sharp knife and made them about
one-sixteenth of an inch wide, which is a little more than the thickness
of the bristolboard. The two end supports of the table Donald made like
Figure 4, which is cut from an oblong five inches wide and four inches
high. The real end of the table, from dotted line to dotted line, is
three and one-half inches wide, just the width of the inner oblong on
the top of the table, under which it must fit. The parts to the right
and left of these dotted lines are the table legs. The projection in the
middle, at the top, is two inches long and three-eighths of an inch
high. The projections at the ends just over the table legs are the same
height. Slits are cut in these projections one-half an inch long, with
the _lower_ edge of each slit on a line with the top edge of the end
pieces, as shown in Figure 4.

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting out toy
furniture components, featuring two distinct flat patterns. On the left
is a profiled piece labeled 'SIDE' and indexed with a large number 8,
shaped like the side panel of a rocking chair with a curved rocker blade
at the bottom, a cut-out handle arch, and slot markings labeled F, I,
and E. On the right is a tall rectangular piece labeled 'BACK' and
indexed with a large number 9, featuring side tabs with slots labeled I
and F, and a horizontal bottom slot labeled D.]

In the middle of each end piece, two inches from the bottom, there is
another slit, two and one-eighth inches long, for holding the shelf, and
the bottom is cut in a half-circle arch. When the end pieces were
completed Donald scored the dotted lines by lightly drawing the blade of
his knife down their entire length. Then he bent the bristolboard along
these lines so that the table legs faced the sides.

Without the projections CC the shelf (Figure 5) is formed of an oblong
exactly the size of the inner oblong on the table top. The projections
are two inches long and a quarter of an inch wide. In these are cut
slits seven-eighths of an inch long, and the slits are outside of the
lines of the oblong, just as the slits are outside of the lines of the
oblong on the table top.

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting and
folding additional components of a toy furniture piece. The layout
features two distinct flat patterns against a plain white background. On
the left is a wide, blocky panel labeled 'SEAT' and indexed with a large
number 10, featuring a top tab labeled D, side tabs with vertical slots
labeled E, and a horizontal dashed fold line near the bottom edge. On
the right is a small stepped piece labeled 'PEG' and indexed with a bold
number 11.]

Donald put all these parts together, slipping the projections A through
the slits A, the projections B through the slits B, and the projections
C through the slits C, and was delighted to find they fit perfectly.
Then he made pegs like Figures 6 and 7; two like Figure 6, which is
three-quarters of an inch wide at the bottom, one and one-eighth inches
wide at the top and one inch high; and four like Figure 7, which is
three-eighths of an inch wide at the bottom, five-eighths of an inch
wide at the top and three-quarters of an inch high. He slid the two pegs
(Figure 6) through the slits in the shelf, and the four pegs (Figure 7)
through the slits in the projections above the table legs, and the
stanch little table (Figure 1) was complete. He dropped it on the floor;
it did not break. He tossed it into the air; its joints held firmly.
Then Donald was satisfied with his work.

Polly made her chair in three parts, not counting the pegs. First she
drew the two sides (Figure 8), which are six and three-quarter inches
high, and three inches wide from front of arm to back edge. The rockers
are five inches long from end to end and one-half an inch wide.
One-quarter of an inch from the back edge Polly drew a straight line,
extending it from the top edge of the chair to the top of the rocker
(Figure 8), and along this line she cut three slits, each slit just one
inch long. The top of the first slit is half an inch from the top edge
of the chair; the top of the second slit one inch below the first slit;
and the top of the third slit is three-quarters of an inch below the
second slit. Just above the rocker she cut an arch half an inch high,
and half an inch above the arch she made a horizontal slit one inch
long. This finished the two sides of the chair.

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting out a toy
furniture component. The flat pattern features a large rectangle divided
horizontally into four equal panels. The word 'BACK' is written in
stylized capital letters across the center of the second panel from the
top. Small vertical slots or holes labeled with the letter O are placed
near the left and right outer borders of the top and bottom panels. A
large, bold index number 13 accompanied by a small letter O is
positioned in the lower-right corner.]

For the back Polly drew an oblong six inches long and three inches wide.
To this she added three projections on either side one-quarter of an
inch wide. She spaced the projections exactly as she did the slits in
the sides of the chair, making them each one inch long. Then, to allow
them to pass easily through the slits, she cut a fraction off each end
of each projection, which left the projections seven-eighths of an inch
long. In the two top and two bottom projections there are slits for the
pegs half an inch long, and three-quarters of an inch above the bottom
edge there is a horizontal slit one and one-half inches long (Figure 9.)

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting out a
small toy connector component, labeled with a large number 12. The flat
pattern outlines a small, stepped shape with a wide, chamfered upper
section and a narrower rectangular bottom section. The word 'PEG' is
handwritten in uppercase letters across the center of the shape, which
features a cross-hatched drop shadow on its right side.]

Figure 10 shows the seat which Polly made, three inches square, then
added three projections one-quarter of an inch wide. The side
projections are seven-eighths of an inch long and the back projection
one and three-eighths inches long. Slits five-eighths of an inch long
are cut in the side projections. The dotted line one-half inch above the
bottom edge (Fig. 10) shows where the seat is scored to be bent down in
front (Figure 2.) Of the six pegs needed for the chair, four are
three-eighths of an inch wide at the bottom, not quite an inch wide at
the top and three-quarters of an inch high (Figure 11.) The other two
pegs are half an inch wide at the bottom, one inch wide at the top and
one and one-quarter inches high (Figure 12.) Polly fitted the two sides
of the chair to the back, sliding the projections on the back (II FF)
through their corresponding slits (I F) in the sides, and fitted the
seat to the back and sides, slipping the projection D through the slit D
and the projections EE through the slits EE. Then she pegged them all
together, using the pegs (Figure 11) for the slits II FF, and the pegs
(Figure 12) for the slits EE. When it was finished she set the chair to
rocking and clapped her hands with delight to see how perfect it was.

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting out a toy
furniture component. The flat pattern features a wide rectangle labeled
'SHELF' across the center. Small interlocking tabs labeled with the
letter L project from the middle of the left and right side edges. A
large, bold index number 14 is positioned in the lower-right section,
and a cross-hatched drop shadow runs along the bottom and right borders
of the shape.]

[Illustration: A mechanical craft template diagram for cutting out a toy
furniture component. The flat pattern features a wide rectangle labeled
'SHELF' across the center. Small interlocking tabs labeled with the
letter L project from the middle of the left and right side edges. A
large, bold index number 14 is positioned in the lower-right section,
and a cross-hatched drop shadow runs along the bottom and right borders
of the shape.]

When the children made the bookshelves (Figure 16) they cut an oblong
for the back piece six and one-quarter inches high and five inches wide
(Figure 13.) On either side of this oblong, one-quarter of an inch from
the edge, they drew straight lines from top to bottom; then, between
these lines, they marked the position of the shelves with five
horizontal lines one and one-half inches apart, making the first line
one-quarter of an inch from the top edge. On either side of the back
piece they made slits to hold the bolts on the side pieces (OO OO)
(Figure 13.) The inner edge of these slits is _on_ the side lines and
the outer edge _outside_ the side lines, and the slits are each
three-quarters of an inch long. The top slits are five-eighths of an
inch from the top edge and the bottom slits are one inch from the bottom
edge of the back piece.

Of course the side pieces had to be made exactly as high as the back
piece, six and three-quarters inches, and the children decided that one
and three-quarters inches was a good width, but this width does not
include the bolts (OO) (Figure 15.) The bolts are three-eighths of an
inch wide at their widest part and a trifle less than three-quarters of
an inch long, so that they will slip easily through the slits. The necks
of the bolts measure three-eighths of an inch from top to bottom.

“Look out, Polly!” exclaimed Donald, suddenly. “You are not getting
those in the right places. The lower edge of the neck of the top bolt
_has_ to be the same distance from the top edge of the side piece as the
lower end of the top slit is from the top edge of the back piece,
because it rests upon it. Don’t you see?”

[Illustration: A vintage stylized line illustration of a completed toy
bookcase or shelving unit built from flat craft components. The
structure is rendered with a pale pink color block fill and features
five horizontal shelves enclosed by a tall backing and two side panels.
On the exterior of the right side panel, the rectangular interlocking
tabs of the shelves are visible projecting through vertical slots. Fine
cross-hatched lines create shading inside the right corners of each
shelf and along the ground beneath the unit.]

“Yes, I see,” said Polly. “That will make it one and three-eighths
inches from the top edge. And by the same token the bottom edge of the
neck of the lower bolt must be just one inch above the bottom edge of
the side piece, for the lower slit is one inch from the bottom edge of
the back piece. Is that right?”

“You’ve got it,” answered Donald.

“That is the way it works; now draw the shelf lines across your side
pieces to correspond to those on the back piece, and make them exactly
the same distance apart. The top line must be one-quarter of an inch
from the top edge, remember.”

Along the shelf lines Polly made slits for holding the shelves (L,
Figure 15); the lower edge of each slit is _on_ the line, the upper edge
of the slit _above_ the line. Each slit is three-quarters of an inch
long. The left-hand ends of the slits are five-eighths of an inch from
the left edge of the side piece.

Figure 14 is the shelf. Donald made five of these shelves. They are four
and one-half inches long; not including the bolts, and one and
three-quarter inches wide, just the width of the side pieces. The bolts
LL are the same size as the bolts OO on the side pieces. The lower edge
of the neck of each bolt is five-eighths of an inch from the bottom edge
of the shelf. The bottom edge of Figure 14 is the front edge of the
shelf when it is put up.

When all the parts were finished the children first fitted the shelves
to the side-pieces, sliding the bolts L through the slits L and pushing
them forward until the bolts held fast and each shelf fitted the sides
exactly. Then they slid the slits O in the back over the bolts O on the
sides, pushed the sides down, the bolts slid into place and the little
bookshelves were securely fastened together.




[Illustration: The giraffe is long-necked and awkward]

                     Wild Animals for the Menagerie

                     Invented by Adelia Belle Beard

                One of the Authors of Things Worth Doing


“‘The giraffe belongs to the ru-minant group of the—’” “Skip that,
Polly. What I want is to know the kind of horns he has and how many
toes. This picture doesn’t show; it’s no good for that, and while we are
making the animals for our menagerie we may as well have them as nearly
right as we can.”

“To be sure, little brother. Well, here it is: ‘The giraffe possesses
two solid, bony ap-pen-da-ges’—that means horns, I suppose—‘which are
completely covered with the skin of the forehead, and are ter-mi-na-ted
by a tuft of bristles.’ Queer kind of horns, aren’t they, Donald, with
bristles sprouting out of the top?”

“That’s all right. What about his feet?”

“Why—wait a minute, I’ve lost my place. Oh, yes: ‘It’s feet ter-mi-nate
in a divided hoof.’ There, he hasn’t any toes, after all; just hoofs
like a cow.”

“How big does it say he is? We want our animals in the right proportion
to one another.”

Polly fluttered the leaves of her book; she had been taking a peep at
some of the other animals. “It says this: ‘The giraffe is the tallest of
existing animals, and is usually from fifteen to sixteen feet high.’”

“That’s measuring from the ground to the top of his head,” commented
Donald.

[Illustration: You cut out the giraffe according to these patterns]

“It must be,” returned Polly, “because he slopes so you would never know
where else to stop in the measurement.”

Donald worked away in silence, and Polly, with elbows on table,
continued to read aloud. “It’s dreadfully interesting, isn’t it?” she
said when she had finished the description of the giraffe given in
Donald’s natural history, “and it really would be a shame to make all
the animals and not know anything about them except their names. I feel
quite intimate and friendly with the giraffe now that I know what
country he comes from and what he likes for dinner.”

“There is your friend, then,” said Donald, standing his little giraffe
on the table (Figure 1.)

The various parts of the giraffe are shown in Figure 2. They are cut
from cardboard and made to be put together by means of the slots. You
can trace the patterns and make the animals without trouble.

The slot A of the fore legs fits into the slot A of the body, and the
slot B of the hind legs fits into the slot B in the body. D is the
pattern of the ears. The ears are to be put through the slit D in the
head and then bent back, as in Figure 1. C is the pattern of the queer
horns, the points on the ends represent the bristles. The horns are to
be slipped through the slit C at the top of the head, and then bent in
the middle to make them stand upright.

“He is just fascinating, Donald,” exclaimed the ever enthusiastic Polly.
“Don’t you think it is quite as easy to make wild animals as farm
animals?”

“Polly, you do ask a lot of questions. Go on and make the elephant now
and let me read about him.”

“All right,” said Polly, quite ready to change occupations. “Where is
that picture I saved? There, that is about the right size, isn’t it?”

“Yes, it will do. Here we are,” Donald continued, bending over his book.
“‘The elephant belongs to the order of Proboscidea—’”

“Now, Donald,” Polly interrupted, “I don’t want to hear that.” “Yes you
do; it means creatures with long noses, and the elephant has the longest
nose on record.”

“How long?”

[Illustration: “Isn’t he a dear old fellow?” said Polly]

“It says here: ‘They are from six to eight feet long, and almost wholly
composed of muscles, numbering nearly forty thousand.’”

“Forty thousand muscles in the poor thing’s nose! Why, it makes me want
to sneeze just to think of it. What else does it say?”

But Donald was watching Polly’s scissors. “Don’t make the hind legs so
big, Polly; they don’t look right.”

“An elephant’s legs are big, Donald.”

“Not like that. Let me trim them off for you. His back must slope more,
too. Don’t you remember how most elephants look, as though they were
just going to sit down?”

“I think I will make the ears and tusks of writing paper instead of
cardboard,” Polly ventured, “they will be easier to manage.”

“That’s a good scheme. Have the ears large, for this elephant comes from
Africa; and they can flop or stand out straight, and if you cut the
tusks crescent shape they will turn up at the points.”

“Isn’t he a dear old fellow?” said Polly, standing her elephant on the
table beside the giraffe. (Figure 3.)

[Illustration: There are just five parts to the elephant]

The different parts of the elephant are given in Figure 4. They are
lettered, and by putting the corresponding letters together the parts
will fit perfectly. E fits E, F fits F. The ears G slip through the slit
G, and the tusks H through the slit H.

The kangaroo (Figure 5) was the next animal the children made, and they
were both delighted with its absurdly unequal legs and immense tail,
which takes the place of another leg. Polly giggled a good deal over its
great, long feet, and persisted in calling its fore legs arms.

“See how short they are, and since it doesn’t use them for walking, they
must be arms,” she argued.

“Whatever they are, we will make them of writing paper and hitch them on
as we did the elephant’s tusks,” said Donald.

Figure 6 gives the patterns for the kangaroo as Polly and Donald made
it. They put the parts together according to the letters and bent the
hind legs at the dotted lines for the feet, as shown in Figure 5.

Figure 7 is the camel, “whose legs are as humpy as its back,” Polly
said. Then she looked it up in the natural history and found out why it
had such peculiar legs, and also many more interesting things about this
patient traveler. Figure 8 shows the various parts of the camel.

[Illustration: These are the parts of the kangaroo]

Donald made the rhinoceros (Figure 9.) Polly said she liked either
pretty or funny animals. “I think the old duffer is funny,” Donald
returned. “See the horn on the end of his nose; doesn’t it look just as
though it had slipped down his head and he had caught it there?” Figure
10 gives all the parts of the rhinoceros.

“The lion is a handsome fellow. You can make him, Polly, and I will see
what I can do with the polar bear.”

Polly made the lion (Figure 11.)

[Illustration: The children thought the kangaroo very funny]

“He is switching his tail very angrily. Be careful not to get too near
him, Donald,” she laughed. Figure 12 gives the four parts of the lion.
Figure 13 is Donald’s polar bear, and Figure 14 gives his body, legs and
ears.

[Illustration: “The camel, whose legs are as humpy as its back”]

[Illustration: A vintage stylized line illustration of a completed toy
bookcase or shelving unit built from flat craft components. The
structure is rendered with a pale pink color block fill and features
five horizontal shelves enclosed by a tall backing and two side panels.
On the exterior of the right side panel, the rectangular interlocking
tabs of the shelves are visible projecting through vertical slots. Fine
cross-hatched lines create shading inside the right corners of each
shelf and along the ground beneath the unit.]

“He is a clumsy-looking creature, isn’t he?” Polly remarked, “but I
would love to see him roll up in a ball and tumble about in the water
just for the fun of it, as your book says he does, sometimes.”

[Illustration: Here is the funny rhinoceros Donald made]

[Illustration: The rhinoceros takes but four parts]

[Illustration: Polly made the lion]

[Illustration: The lion is easily made in this way]

[Illustration: The polar bear was left for Donald]

[Illustration: The body, ears, fore and hind legs of the polar bear]

------------------------------------------------------------------------




                          TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES


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 ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.
 ● Enclosed bold or blackletter font in =equals=.
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     transcriber in place of a caption.



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