[Illustration:

  _C. Johnston dd. T. & E. Gilks, Lith^{rs.}_
  MULKUKUYU FORD OVER THE HAWASH.
]




------------------------------------------------------------------------


                                TRAVELS

                                   IN

                          SOUTHERN ABYSSINIA,




                                THROUGH


                          THE COUNTRY OF ADAL



                                   TO



                          THE KINGDOM OF SHOA.




                                   BY


                       CHARLES JOHNSTON, M.R.C.S.




                            IN TWO VOLUMES.


                                VOL. I.




                                LONDON:
                 J. MADDEN AND CO., LEADENHALL STREET.
                              M DCCC XLIV.


------------------------------------------------------------------------






                          MACINTOSH, PRINTER,
                       GREAT NEW STREET, LONDON.






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                                   TO

                 M^{R.} THOMAS JOHNSTON, OF BIRMINGHAM,


                             THESE VOLUMES


                     ARE AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED,


                              BY HIS SON.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                                PREFACE.


                               ----------


As a young Author I may be allowed to make a few introductory remarks,
for the purpose of propitiating that spirit of critical inquiry which
will probably be directed to the examination of these volumes.

To undertake this journey into Africa I resigned a valuable medical
appointment in the East, and voluntarily assumed the character of an
adventurer. My taste and prudence were questioned much at the time by my
friends. Whether the results of the ambition which prompted me to
endeavour to be of service to others are, or are not, sufficient reward
for the sacrifice I made, now depends upon the judgment of my reader.

In 1840 I held the appointment of Surgeon on board the iron armed
steamer Phlegethon, on secret service, but presumed to be bound for the
Eastern coast of Africa or India. I had long entertained the idea of
travelling in Africa, and determined to carry this into effect by
resigning at the end of the voyage out, and returning to England by a
road across that continent. Accordingly, whilst in London, I prepared in
some measure for the journey, by purchasing such instruments and outfit
that I thought would be necessary. I also waited upon Captain
Washington,[1] then Secretary of the Geographical Society, who entered
warmly into my views, and introduced me to Captains Trotter and Allen,
who were about to proceed upon the Niger expedition.

Footnote 1:

  Now commanding the Blazer steam-vessel, R. N.

In May 1841 the Phlegethon reached Calcutta, and my respected Commander,
the late lamented R. F. Cleveland, Esq., R. N., aware of my intention to
travel, introduced me to several members of the Indian Government, who
afforded me every facility to enable me to enter Africa from the coast
opposite to Aden, and from whence a Political Mission, under Captain
Harris, was then on the eve of starting for the court of Shoa in
Abyssinia.

I beg particularly to acknowledge the interest that the
Governor-General, the Right Hon. the Earl of Auckland, took in my
proposed expedition, and also the kindness and attention I received from
T. Prinsep, Esq., First Member of the Council, and T. H. Maddock, Esq.,
Secretary to the Government. I take this opportunity also of expressing
to Capt. Haines, the political resident in Aden, my lively feelings of
respect and gratitude for kindnesses the most disinterested, and for
that assistance without which I could never have undertaken my
subsequent journey.

Of my reception in Abyssinia by Captain Harris, I speak elsewhere, but
the spirit with which my arrival was hailed may be supposed by the fact
that during the first evening I managed, according to the _notes of our
conversation_ taken by my very courteous entertainer, to assert a
falsehood, to which, however, when I became aware of the circumstance I
gave an unqualified contradiction, and so ended all friendly intercourse
until some months after, when a peace was negotiated through the
mediation of Capt. Graham.

The circumstances of this quarrel were most embarrassing to me, and
have, I believe, occasioned considerable indignation on the part of
those who had assisted me so far on my travels. Some respect, however, I
do owe to myself, and feeling annoyed at being the subject of unworthy
imputations, I have abstained from making any explanation whatever.
Circumstances already have, in a great measure, exonerated me. The
confidence of public men may be abused for a time, but it cannot long be
imposed upon.

Before laying down my pen, I must remark that I am not learned either in
the Arab or the Amharic tongues, and when I have ventured to insert a
few words from either language, it is to add some little to the scene,
not to lead any one to suppose that the smattering I picked up among the
natives is paraded in affectation of great oriental learning.

In the orthography of proper names, I have used English letters, I know
no other so well. Distrusting my _ear_ and _taste_, I referred to the
published works of three modern Abyssinian travellers, who affect to be
directed by a foreign standard of pronunciation. Finding them all to
disagree, I had no other resource but to fall back upon the despised
alphabet of my mother tongue.

Of my views upon the geography of Abyssinia, I am glad to observe, that
since I advocated them at the Royal Geographical Society’s Meetings,
culminating points and anticlinal axes have given way to the proper idea
of a table-land surrounded by a _rampart-like scarp_.

An earnest wish to be impressive, when I believe myself to be right, has
occasioned me sometimes to assume a tone of overweening confidence. For
this I ask to be excused; and in palliation for minor faults of
composition, must advance my long-continued ill-health, which has
prevented close application for the purposes of amending or correcting
the manuscript.


_London, June 1st, 1844._


------------------------------------------------------------------------






                          CONTENTS TO VOL. I.


                               ----------


                               CHAPTER I.


                                                              PAGE

     Arrival in Aden.—Preparations for my journey into           1
       Africa.—Departure for Tajourah.—Stay in that
       town.—Unsuccessful endeavours to proceed
       farther.—Return to Aden


                              CHAPTER II.

     Arrival at Berberah.—Description of the town and           18
       fair.—Departure for Zeila.—The town of Zeila.—Second
       visit to Tajourah.


                              CHAPTER III.

     Reception in Tajourah.—Arrangements for our                36
       stay.—Occupation.—Amusements.—Geological character of
       the country.—Engaging camels for the journey.—Customs
       of the townspeople.—Public buildings.—Religious
       ceremonies, law, and justice.


                              CHAPTER IV.

     Reception of visitors by the Sultaun of                    61
       Tajourah.—Arrival from Shoa of Demetrius and
       Joannes.—Ruins and remains of antiquity.—Preparations
       for our departure.—The day fixed for our start.


                               CHAPTER V.

     Journey to Ambabboo.—Halt for the night.—Journey to        70
       Dulhull.—Stay at Dulhull.


                              CHAPTER VI.

     Staying at Dulhull.—Journey to Segallo.—Halt for the       89
       night.—Journey to Daddahue.—Attack of the Bursane
       subdivision of the Ad’alee tribe.—Halt for the night.


                              CHAPTER VII.

     Leave Daddahue.—Journey through the Rah Issah to          107
       Bulhatoo.—Halt for the night.—Journey to
       Dafarrè.—From Dafarrè to Aleek’shatan.—Journey to
       Alephanta.


                             CHAPTER VIII.

     The Salt Lake.—Journey to Gunguntur.—Scene of the         126
       murder of three soldiers of the British Mission in
       1840.—Halt.—Journey to Allulee.—Attack of the Muditu
       tribe.


                              CHAPTER IX.

     Staying at Allulee.—Amusements.—More camels join our      148
       Kafilah.—Introduced to Ohmed Medina.—Journey to
       Gurguddee.—Halt for the night.—Murder of a
       slave.—March to Khrabtu.—Proceed to Saggadarah.


                               CHAPTER X.

     Journey from Saggadarah.—Reach Bellad Hy.—Halt.—Journey   166
       to Ramudalee.—Halt to receive the visit of Lohitu,
       Chief of the Debenee tribe.


                              CHAPTER XI.

     Stay at Ramudalee.—Himyah and his matchlock.—Chase of a   177
       hyæna.—Visitors from the Debenee tribe.—Guinea-fowl
       shooting.—Arrival of Lohitu.—Leave Ramudalee for the
       valley of Gobard.


                              CHAPTER XII.

     Conversation with Ohmed Medina respecting the course of   195
       the river Hawash.—Description of that river.—Its
       termination in Lake Abhibhad.—The various watersheds
       of the basin of the Hawash.—Comparison of present
       route with that of previous travellers.


                             CHAPTER XIII.

     Leave Gobard for Arabderah.—View of Lake                  206
       Abhibhad.—March to Saggagahdah.—Meet Kafilah of
       Mahomed Allee.—Halt for the night.


                              CHAPTER XIV.

     Description of the plain of Saggagahdah.—Dowaleeka        217
       lake.—Effects of mirage.—Slave Kafilah.—Write letters
       to Aden.—Retire from camp with Lohitu.—Interview with
       Mahomed Allee.


                              CHAPTER XV.

     Journey from Sagagahdah to Mokoito.—Meet old              229
       friends.—Conversation upon the origin of the Dankalli
       people.—Journey from Mokoito to
       Ahmahguloff.—Description of halting-place.


                              CHAPTER XVI.

     Journey to Koranhedudah.—Pass Jibel Obinoe.—Plain of      245
       Amardu.—Account of myrrh-tree.—Description of
       halting-place.—Singular solar phenomenon.—Journey to
       Herhowlee.—Bedouin village.—Bedouin ladies.


                             CHAPTER XVII.

      Stay at Herhowlee.—Dankalli sell their female children for
        slaves.—Pillar of sand and cloud of fire indications of
        rain.—Engage escort of Hy Soumaulee.—Comparison between
            modern Dankalli and ancient Blemmyes.—March to
          Barradudda.—Description of halting-place.—Religious
                              discussion
     with Ohmed Medina.                                        258


                             CHAPTER XVIII.

     Stay at Barradudda.—Milk diet.—Wound myself by            271
       accidental discharge of my gun.—Bedouin
       skirmish.—Mode of warfare among the
       Dankalli.—Compensation for wounds and injured
       property.—Peace re-established.


                              CHAPTER XIX.

     Journey to Thermadullah.—Quarrel with Ras ul              285
       Kafilah.—Cooking scene.—Dankalli improvisatore.—Camel
       saddles.—Stung by scorpion.—Account of some
       neighbouring hot springs.


                              CHAPTER XX.

     Journey to Alee-bakalee.—_May 1st._—Journey to            300
       Hasanderah.—Dankalli naturalists.—Large herd of
       cattle.—Architectural labours.—Mahomedan popular
       superstitions.—Sale of children.—A Bedouin father.


                              CHAPTER XXI.

     Purchase tobacco, with remarks on its use among the       313
       Dankalli.—Make cover for hat.—Conversation with Ohmed
       Medina.—Journey to Bundurah.—Singular effect of
       refraction.—Joined by a party of Issah
       Soumaulee.—Description of their appearance and
       arms.—Affectionate inquiries of Kafilah
       friends.—Description of halting-place and country
       around Bundurah.


                             CHAPTER XXII.

     Journey to Kuditee.—Territory of the                      331
       Wahama.—Description of halting-ground.—Meet with
       party of friends returning from Shoa.—Strange
       request.—Custom of incising skin with sharp
       stone.—Influx of Wahama people into camp.—La Belle
       Sauvage.—Long discussion with the Wahama.—Differences
       settled, and allowed to proceed.


                             CHAPTER XXIII.

     Journey to Hiero Murroo.—False alarm at                   345
       starting.—Necessity for being prepared for strife in
       Adal.—Abu Bukeree, Sheik of the second Debenee
       tribe.—Old friend of Lieut. Barker.—Offered
       marriage.—Stay at Hiero Murroo.—Find abandoned
       property of the Mission.—Negotiations for its
       restoration.—Joined by Wahama Kafilah.


                             CHAPTER XXIV.

     Delay in giving up the recovered stores.—Interview with   360
       father of Mahomed Allee.—Accompany him to
       kraal.—Entertainment there.—Condition of the
       stores.—Murder in our camp.—Occupation of Kafilah
       people during long halts.—Game of gubertah.—Muditu
       visitors.—Expected attack.—Bedouins feasting.—Portion
       of entrail around the neck of a Bedouin, not for
       ornament, but use.—Amusements.


                              CHAPTER XXV.

     Journey to Mettah.—Conversation upon different roads      380
       through Adal to Shoa.—Commercial jealousy between the
       Muditu and the Dankalli.—Battle of Hihillo.—Surprise
       sleeping friend.—Frighten my servant, Allee.—Halt
       near Assa-hemerah kraal.


                             CHAPTER XXVI.

     Journey to Murroo.—Remarks upon the climate of            391
       Adal.—Pass some small extinct volcanoes.—A little
       farriery.—Cautions for practitioners of medicine
       resident among the Dankalli.—Halt for a short time at
       Kuma.—Second visit of Abu Bukeree.—Proceed to
       Murroo.—Halt near kraal of Durtee Ohmed, Sheik of the
       Sidee Ahbreu tribe


                             CHAPTER XXVII.

     Amusements during stay at Murroo.—Bull fight.—Eating      408
       raw meat.—Another offer of marriage.—Strange mode of
       dressing the hair.—Caution to travellers; perhaps
       unnecessary.


                            CHAPTER XXVIII.

     Journey to Sakeitaban.—Visit to Durtee Ohmed.—Halt at     418
       Sakeitaban.—Proceed to Mullu.—Bad road.—Threats of
       assassination.—Shields of the Dankalli, and care of
       their arms.—Arrive at Mullu.—Write letter to Ankobar.


                             CHAPTER XXIX.

     Journey to Annee.—Proceed over Plain of Mullu.—Halt in    431
       sight of Berdudda.—Muditu kraal and funeral.—Hare
       hunt.—Arrive at Annee.—Muditu visitors.—Moonlight
       scene.—Stay at Berdudda.—Visit to camp of Hittoo
       Galla women.—Attack of formidable
       caterpillar.—Situation of halting-place at Annee.


                              CHAPTER XXX.

     Journey to How.—Aleekduggee Sageer.—Immense               445
       Kafilah.—Water-cure for determination of blood to the
       head.—Attack of the Galla.—Display of forces.—Ras ul
       Kafilah balances profit and loss so far.


                             CHAPTER XXXI.

     Journey to Mulkukuyu.—Forest on the right bank of the     455
       Hawash.—The ford of Mulkukuyu.—Passage of the
       river.—Congratulations.—Scorpion hunting.—Visit the
       Hippopotamus lake.—Journey to Azbotee.—Lee
       Adu.—Change in character of the country.—View of the
       table-land of Abyssinia.—The so-called Abyssinian
       Alps.—Reflections.


                             CHAPTER XXXII.

     Journey from Azbotee to Dinnomalee.—Start with escort     474
       in the night.—Pass Sheik’s tomb.—Reach Kokki.—Wahama
       town.—Arrive at Dinnomalee.—Detained by Custom-house
       officers.—Get to Farree.—Accommodations.—Hospitable
       reception.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

[Illustration:

  SKETCH MAP
  _SHEWING THE_
  WATERSHEDS OF ABYSSINIA
  _BY_
  CHARLES JOHNSTON
  _Published by J. Madden & C^o. June 3^{rd}. 1844_
]


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                  TRAVELS IN SOUTHERN ABYSSINIA, ETC.


                         ---------------------


                               CHAPTER I.


Arrival in Aden.—Preparations for my journey into Africa.—Departure for
  Tajourah.—Stay in that town.—Unsuccessful endeavours to proceed
  farther.—Return to Aden.—Time, from 24th of December to the 1st of
  March.


I ARRIVED in Aden on the 24th of December, 1841, very ill indeed; having
been suffering for nearly two months from a severe intermittent fever,
contracted in Bombay. I was advised to proceed at once to England for
the benefit of my health, but having letters of introduction from the
Indian Government to Capt. Haines, the political agent in Aden, and also
to Capt. Harris, our ambassador at that time to the court of Shoa, in
Abyssinia, which were calculated to assist me materially in my intention
of penetrating into Africa, I persisted in my determination, under all
circumstances, to carry out a resolution formed two years before of
exploring some portion of that interesting, but as yet little known
continent.

Circumstances detained me in Aden nearly six weeks before I received the
welcome intimation from Capt. Haines, that he was about to forward to
Shoa despatches and stores for the use of the Mission, and as he kindly
offered to put them under my charge, I gladly availed myself of the
opportunity thus afforded me of commencing my journey most favourably as
regarded both comfort and convenience; every requisite for such an
undertaking being provided for me that the friendly care and the long
experience of Capt. Haines and the assistant political agent, C. J.
Cruttenden, Esq., could suggest. Mr. Hatchetoor, an active and
intelligent agent, who had been appointed to transact all business with
the chiefs connected with the transit of stores and despatches through
the Adal country, was also instructed to accompany me to Tajourah, a
small seaport, on the opposite African coast, from whence the two
proceeding kafilahs connected with the Embassy had started into the
interior.

A Portuguese servant, named Antonio, who had been engaged to accompany
me, hearing of the sad fate of three European soldiers belonging to
Capt. Harris’s party, and who were killed during the night, a few days’
journey inland, and of the still more recent murder of three of Mr.
Hatchetoor’s native servants, when last he visited Tajourah, became so
alarmed that he deserted; perhaps fortunately for me, as I was thus
spared the trouble and risk of engaging in any quarrels that might have
arisen with the natives on his account. As presents and peace-offerings
to the numerous petty chieftains of the various tribes of Dankalli,
among whom my road lay, I was provided with ten bags of rice, a large
box containing several pieces of white and red calico, some figured
chintz, and a few cotton handkerchiefs of every gaudy colour, besides an
abundant supply of needles and paper, which constituted the material for
minor gifts to be made to a more numerous class of supplicants, the
women and inferior people.

Our arrangements being completed, Mr. Hatchetoor and myself proceeded on
board the brig-of-war Euphrates, commanded by Lieut. John Young, of the
Indian navy, who had received orders to convey us to Tajourah.

We were no sooner on board than the anchor was weighed, and we started
on our short voyage across the Sea of Babel Mandeb. In consequence of
the weak state of my health, I remained on deck no longer than to
witness our passage out of the beautiful and commodious harbour called
Back Bay, which extends to the westward of the low narrow isthmus, and
nearly circular base of the extinct volcano _razè_ of Aden. We arrived
in sight of Tajourah by sunrise the next morning; but it was not until
nearly three o’clock in the afternoon that we anchored in front of that
town. The sails being furled, a salute of seven guns was fired by the
brig, but some time elapsed before any notice was taken of the honour by
the people on shore, a delay which was soon accounted for by _Sultaun
Ebin Mahomed_, the Sheik of the town, sending on board for some
gunpowder to enable him to return the compliment.

Capt. Young and Mr. Hatchetoor landed almost immediately. I remained for
the present on board, as it was considered impolitic for me to appear
desirous of passing through the Adal country until some positive
information could be obtained respecting the second division of stores
which had been sent up to Abyssinia some months before under the charge
of Mr. Bernatz, the artist, and the assistant surveyor, Mr. Scott,
respecting which none but the most disastrous accounts had been received
in Aden. On the return of Capt. Young to the brig, I found, much to my
disappointment, that he did not feel himself justified, under present
circumstances, in trusting into the hands of the people of Tajourah,
several boxes and packages which were to constitute my charge. He also
considered it would be highly injudicious in me to make any attempt to
pass through the country in the disturbed state it was then represented
to be. Part of the mail, however, he determined to forward, if possible,
and had fixed the next day for another interview with the Sultaun to
conclude some arrangements with him and his people that should at least
secure the transmission of the public despatches to Capt. Harris in
Shoa.

Tajourah is a small straggling town consisting of a number of low mat
houses standing on the northern shore of a narrow bay which extends
about twenty miles inward, nearly due east and west. The opposite coast
is at least ten miles distant. From Tajourah, the bay contracts inland
to a channel scarcely four hundred yards wide, when, suddenly expanding
again, it terminates in a large irregularly formed lagoon, called Goobat
ul Khhrab (the bad haven). In modern maps no appearance of this deep
inlet, a very particular feature of the sea-coast in this neighbourhood,
can be found, though in the older Portuguese maps it is accurately
enough laid down. The ancients seem to have been well aware of the
existence of the Bay of Tajourah, for it can be easily identified with
the Sinus Avalitæ of the Periplus.

The sea immediately in front of Tajourah has received, from the
generally unruffled state of its stormless waters, the name of Bahr ul
Barateen, “The sea of Maidens;” which struck me as a singular
correspondence with the name of the sea surrounding the ancient city of
Carthage, which from the map appended to an old school edition of
Virgil, we learn was called by the Romans, _Mare Nympharum_, the
poetical Latin translation of the Arabic, Bahr ul Barateen. Tajourah, it
must be observed, also being the present name of a village situated very
near to the ruins of that once powerful seat of Phœnician commerce.

On the occasion of this visit, much opportunity was not afforded me of
observing the character either of the country or of the people, as I
landed but twice, and then under the closest surveillance of a brother
of the Sultaun, named Isaak, who professed to be greatly alarmed for my
safety during these visits; and although at the time I deemed his
attendance to proceed from any but generous motives, I have since had
reason to believe that his representations of the danger I incurred by
rambling about the neighbourhood without the protection of some powerful
native were founded upon truth, and from a desire that no cause of
ill-feeling between their little town and the English should occur, if
by any possibility it could be avoided. As I before observed, three of
Mr. Hatchetoor’s servants were murdered during the night, on the last
occasion of our intercourse with the inhabitants; and Isaak, though I
felt his presence to be a restraint upon my actions, was quite right for
thus persisting to accompany me on even the most trifling occasions, to
prevent the recurrence of what he, half savage as he was, felt to be an
untoward event.

An opportunity offering itself, Capt. Young introduced me to the Sultaun
of Tajourah. He was a man at least sixty years of age; round his closely
shaven head was wrapped a dirty white muslin turban, beneath which was a
very light Arab skull cap of open wicker-work, made of the mid rib of
the palm leaf. Naked to his waist, over the right shoulder and across
his chest, was slung a broad belt of amulets, consisting of numerous
packages the size of a small cartouche-box, alternately of red cloth and
of leather, each of which contained some written charm against every
evil that he feared, or for every desirable good. A common checked
cotton fotah, or cloth, reaching to the knees, was fastened around his
middle by a leathern belt, in which was secured a very handsome sword of
silver, and completed his dress. In his hand he held a light spear, that
served to support his long spare figure as he walked, or sometimes to
chastise a rebellious urchin, or vituperative female of his household,
by dropping the heavily iron tipped end not very gently on their heads
and shoulders. But little attention was paid to him by his tribe beyond
the simple acknowledgment of him as their chief, and the title was only
valuable as a legal excuse for demanding from merchants and strangers
some paltry present, which alone constitutes, as far as I could observe,
the revenue of the state of Tajourah.

Beyond the limits of the town, the authority of the Sultaun was
disclaimed; and, in fact, it was very evident that to hold quiet
possession of the town, a species of black mail was extorted from him
and the inhabitants by the Bedouins of the surrounding country.

The palace of the Sultaun Ebin Mahomed, who was familiarly styled by his
subjects, “Shabah” (old man), consisted of two rooms, placed at right
angles to each other, the walls of which consisted of mats made of the
plaited palm leaf, stretched upon a slight frame of sticks. The roofs
also were of similar material. The whole was enclosed by a fence about
six feet high, consisting of dry sticks, also covered with mats.

Screens of these suspended mats divided the larger of the two rooms into
four compartments, which were severally used as the harem, store-room,
the family sleeping-room, and the audience-chamber, if such imposing
designations may with propriety be bestowed upon the squalid menage of
the chief of Tajourah. In the other room was the oven, or rather kiln,
for baking; a coarse earthen construction, which resembled in form a
large jar, inside of which was placed the fuel; when it was properly
heated, large layers of unleavened dough, made from the meal of jowahree
mixed with water, was plastered upon the outside, where it remained
until it had dried into a heavy substance, well finger-marked, and
looked sufficiently like a cake to satisfy the eaters, that they were,
really, as they frequently boasted, so far in advance of their Bedouin
neighbours, as to use baked bread.

There were also in this room a few wooden couches upon which the slave
women were accustomed to repose during the heat of the day, when not
engaged in grinding the jowahree meal, or carrying water from the well.
At a short distance from these apartments, but within the enclosed
court, was a singularly constructed wooden building that towered some
six feet above the usual height of houses in Tajourah, being the cabin
of a large bogalow, or native ship, wrecked in the bay, and which had
been elevated upon untrimmed trunks of the date palm-tree.[2] A wall of
matting carried round these posts formed a convenient lower room, which,
with the cabin above, was usually apportioned to strangers visiting the
town. To this extraordinary effort of native architectural genius, was
attached a small yard, separated by a mat screen from the larger court;
and here, at a broken jar, that stood in one corner, under the shade of
a miserable looking henna-tree, the faithful of the household were
always to be found at the stated times of prayer, performing their
ablutions. At small apertures along the lower edge of the screen, close
to the ground, were frequently to be seen rows of white teeth of
startling extent, as the amused slave girl and female branches of the
royal family sought to gratify their curiosity by taking sly peeps at
the Engreez whenever they visited the Sultaun. The law court, if it may
be so termed, was nothing more than an expansion of the lane in the
front of the Sultan’s residence, carefully strewed with the small pebbly
shingle of the neighbouring beach. In form it was oblong, and around it
were placed several large stones, an old ship beam, and a trunk of the
date tree, to serve for the seats of the principal men of the town on
occasions of their public kalahims or councils, which were always held
in this place. The Sultaun generally presided over these assemblies, his
chief business being to distribute the coffee, which was rather stingily
supplied to the parties present.

Footnote 2:

  With respect to this wooden building, a recent traveller asserts that
  it is made of the hull of a British ship, the Mary Ann, which was
  attacked and burned during the night, in the port of Berberah, more
  than twenty years ago. To paint the evil one blacker than he really
  is, is not considered fair; and I do not see why the treachery and the
  violence of the inhabitants of a town nearly one hundred and fifty
  miles distant should be thus attached to the people of Tajourah
  without any foundation whatever. Another error that demands a positive
  contradiction is the statement that the fops of Tajourah are
  Soumaulee, with their hair stained red. One of the principal
  distinguishing characteristics between the Dankalli, by whom Tajourah
  is exclusively inhabited, and the Soumaulee of the opposite coast of
  the bay, is this custom among the latter people to change the natural
  colour of the hair, by a solution of quick-lime applied to it. Any
  Dankalli doing this would be certainly assassinated by his countrymen.

Capt. Young having succeeded in his endeavour to forward the despatches,
this being undertaken by the son of my friend Isaak, on payment of
seventy dollars, made immediate preparations for returning to Aden, in
order to report the unsafe character of the road, and the disinclination
of the Tajourah people to forward the stores to Shoa. I, of course, felt
much disappointed; but could not object to the reasonableness of the
only course that could be taken, and made up my mind to remain in Aden
until a better opportunity should be afforded me of prosecuting my
determination of travelling in Africa.

_Feb. 26._—After a detention of four days at Tajourah, we weighed
anchor, and proceeded on our voyage back to Aden; the wind, however,
being contrary and very light, we did not reach Back Bay until the 1st
of March, during which time I amused myself on board comparing the
present condition of the coast of that part of Africa we had just
visited, with some notes I had collected respecting the ancient
geography, as contained in the Periplus of Arrian, and other works of
the same character I had read.

The present name among the Arabs of the opposite coast of the country in
which Tajourah is situated is Burr Adgem, “the land of fire;” and it
must be observed, that this is also the Arab designation of the present
kingdom of Persia; a significant name, acknowledged to be, and is
evidently derived from the volcanic character of both these districts.
The Burr Adgem, on the south of the Red Sea, is of indefinite extent,
but may be considered as applied to the country reaching from Suakin in
the north, to Mogadishe in the south, and as far west as the high lands
of Abyssinia.

Among the ancients, this country was known as that of the Avalites; in
which word may perhaps be recognised, Affah, the present native name of
the Dankalli tribes, living on the western coast of the Red Sea, but
which formerly had a far more extensive application, and included the
numerous Soumaulee tribes, who inhabited the country to the south of the
Sea of Babel Mandeb as far as Cape Guardefoi, and from thence southward
along the eastern coast of Africa as far as Malinda.

Another name for these Affah tribes is Adal; given to them by the
Abyssinians inland, and which, according to some recent authorities, has
arisen from the circumstance of the principal tribe with whom the
Abyssinians have any intercourse being the Adu Alee, living in the
immediate vicinity of Massoah, which name has gradually become to be
used as the designation of the whole people. I confess that I do not see
the propriety of this derivation, as it appears more natural to derive
the Abyssinian name from that of the chief part of this country at an
early period, when a powerful Egyptian monarch made the Affah port,
Adulis, the capital of an extensive country. The terminal letter of this
proper name, I have been informed, may be the usual Grecian affix to
adapt it to the genius of their language; and I think the probability
is, that the ς has been thus added, and that the word Aduli was the
origin of the Greek Adulis, and of the modern name Adal.

Another very common name for these people is Dankalli, a word which
appears to be of Persian origin; but one that is also acknowledged by
the Affah themselves, as the proper name of their country, or of their
people collectively. In the time of Ludolph, Dankalli was known as the
name of a large kingdom or province, situated on the sea-coast,
extending from the port of Adulis to the confines of the country of the
Assobah Galla, who then dwelt in the country immediately to the north of
Tajourah. The Assobah are now, however, considered to be a Dankalli
tribe, a change which I conceive has taken place in consequence of this
tribe having since become Gibbertee, or “strong in the Islam faith;” for
a religious distinction, I find, has for some centuries separated the
original Affah nation into Dankalli and Soumaulee. The latter, whose
name is derived from the Abyssinian word _soumahe_, or heathens, being
supposed by the strict Mahomedan Dankalli, still in a great proportion
to adhere to their ancient Sabian faith, and only partially to profess
the Islam belief. Soumaulee corresponds with the Arabic word, kafir, or
unbeliever, the name by which alone Edresi, the Arabian geographer, knew
and described the inhabitants of the Affah coast, to the east of the
straits of Babel Mandeb.

It also appears to me that the word Dankalli connects the history of
these people with the empire of the true Ethiopia, or Meroe, which was
situated between the branches of the Tacazze and the Assareek, or the
Red Nile, for it may be that in the Odyssey, where Homer conducts
Neptune into Ethiopia, and places him between two nations of blacks,
perfectly distinct from each other, the poet alludes to the two very
different people, the Shankalli and the Dankalli, inhabiting the low
countries of Africa within the tropics; the former living to the west of
Abyssinia, the latter towards the east. This will be more evident when,
in a future chapter, I connect the elevated table-land of Abyssinia with
the scene of the annual festivities of the gods in Ethiopia.

It may be as well in this place, perhaps, to advance my own opinion as
to the probable derivation of the name Galla, which has been so
generally given to the numerous, divided, and barbarous tribes which I
believe have arisen from the ruins of the once civilized and extensive
empire of Meroe. The word Galla appears to be merely another form of
“Calla,” which in the ancient Persian, Sanscrit, Celtic, and their
modern derivative languages, under modified, but not radically changed
terms, is expressive of blackness, and which was originally conferred
upon a dark-coloured people, as descriptive of their appearance, by the
affrighted nations of a lighter complexion, whom their boldness and
ferocity have nearly extinguished. Thus the original inhabitants of the
high table-land of Abyssinia, a much lighter-coloured race than the
Greeks, called the people of the surrounding low countries Galla, for
the same reason that the Greeks gave them the name of Ethiopians. In the
Geez, or Ethiopic language, these people are styled Tokruree, blacks,
and their country Tokruah; and we find that the Arabs and Indians, also
influenced by external appearance, call them Seedee, and their country
Soudan, from the word _asward_, which signifies black. The Romans, in
like manner, gave them the name of Nigritæ; and we ourselves call them
Blacks. Two nations of Calla or blacks, very different in physical
character and social condition from each other, are now found in the
country of ancient Ethiopia; the Shankalli, or the true negro, and the
Dankalli, who belong decidedly to the Circassian variety of mankind,
possessing round skulls, high full foreheads; the position of the eyes
rectilinear; the nose, mouth, and form of countenance being in every
respect concordant with the characters assigned to that type of the
human race, excepting their colour, which was a dark brown, or sometimes
quite black. Their hair, which is much frizzled and worn very full, is a
savage caricature of a barrister’s wig. I could perceive no other
difference in features or in the form of the head between ourselves and
several individuals of this people; indeed, there was often such a
striking resemblance between them and some of my European acquaintances,
that it was not unusual for me to distinguish them by bestowing the
names of some of my far distant friends upon their Dankalli
counterparts.

Respecting the numerous savage tribes, known in Europe under the general
term Galla, I will not anticipate the results of my subsequent journey,
which afforded me better opportunity of forming an opinion as to the
real character of these people, and of comparing them with others, who
seemed to me to have one common origin, but who differ very materially
in the historical circumstances which have marked the period of their
long separation. I shall, therefore, return for the present to Aden,
which we reached early in the morning of the first of March, three days
after having left Tajourah.

From Back Bay, a joint report was immediately forwarded to Capt. Haines
by Lieut. Young and Mr. Hatchetoor, announcing the return of the brig,
and the ill success that had attended their endeavours to forward the
stores and myself to Shoa. Fortunately, I was not long permitted to
remain at Steamer Point, off which the Euphrates was anchored, for
before noon of the same day we arrived, I received fresh instructions
from Capt. Haines to embark again in the evening, and proceed in company
with the assistant political agent, C. J. Cruttenden, Esq., to Berberah,
where the great annual fair was then being held; from which place it was
arranged a native boat should be engaged to take that gentleman, his two
servants, and myself back to Tajourah. Capt. Haines rightly supposing
that some little jealousy had been excited on the previous occasion by
the appearance of the brig before the town which might have implied that
compulsion would be resorted to, should the inhabitants refuse their
required assistance to communicate with the Embassy in the interior. One
great benefit had resulted from the voyage—my health having considerably
improved. The sea air, fresh scenes, and above all, the considerate
kindness with which I was treated on board the Euphrates confirmed the
restorative reaction which had commenced in Aden. The depressing
influence that for several months had held me in sick durance, yielded
before the excitement of hope, and a new principle of life seemed to
reanimate my nearly worn-out frame.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                              CHAPTER II.


Arrival at Berberah.—Description of the Town and Fair.—Departure for
  Zeila.—The Town of Zeila.—Second Visit to Tajourah.—Time, from the 1st
  to the 6th of March.


BERBERAH is situated on the same coast of the sea of Babel Mandeb, but
about 130 miles to the eastward of Tajourah. It is remarkable for having
been a mart for the exchange of African and Asiatic products between the
merchants of either continent, from the earliest antiquity.

For the greater part of every year, during the S. W. Monsoon, from
September to March, this place is the busy scene of an extensive
commerce, and a deserted wilderness for the remaining months; after
which interval, again the ships of foreign and the caravans of native
products begin to arrive. Another temporary town rises as if by the wand
of some magician, and thousands of huts and mat houses are erected upon
the beach, where but a few weeks before nothing was to be seen but bare
sands; nothing to be heard save the howling of numerous wild beasts, as
they prowled in search of food, amongst the heaps of filth and animal
remains collected during the preceding fair.

We came in sight of Berberah on the afternoon of the 4th of March. As
the brig rounded a low sandy point, and entered the narrow harbour,
several of the natives, who had been long watching our slow advance, the
wind being very light, leaped into the sea, and swam on board. I could
not avoid noticing immediately the apparent difference in disposition
between them and the people of Tajourah; for a most sullen and
distrustful bearing seemed to characterize the latter, while the
Soumaulee on the contrary, at least those of Berberah, seemed confident
that no violence or injury would be offered to them, they seized the
ropes thrown over the sides of the vessel to assist them as they climbed
up, and in high glee they passed along the deck and on to the poop,
laughing, arranging their wet waist-cloths, and shaking hands, as if
they were among old friends.

We anchored within a short distance of the town, and several of the
leading people came immediately on board. The business connected with my
journey to Berberah was transacted at once in the cabin, the principal
native authority, Allee Shurmalkee, being requested by Mr. Cruttenden to
provide a boat and other necessaries, which he readily consented to do.
As it was late, we none of us went on shore; although I do not believe
any danger would have been incurred by so doing, a very friendly feeling
evidently existing on the part of the natives towards the English,
without that abundant protestation of friendship pressed upon you, as it
is by the people of Tajourah, which you cannot help feeling is
altogether feigned.

During the earlier part of the next day, I amused myself upon deck,
making observations on the temporary town, and speculating on the
different national characters of the mixed multitude which inhabit it.

The mere appearance of Berberah is most uninteresting, except,
certainly, the harbour, which, if not a very prominent feature, is still
a most singular one for its peculiar construction and admirable
convenience. A long low spit or raised bank of sand and coral extends
nearly a mile into the sea towards the west, parallel with, and at the
distance of about half a mile from, the real line of coast. Within the
enclosed space of water good anchorage in four or six fathoms is found
nearly up to the town, which is situated around the bite of this little
narrow inlet. The rise and fall of the tide is sufficient to admit of
very large bogalows, as the native boats are called, to be beached for
repair, or other purposes; and, in fact, during the fair, a great number
of these vessels do lie upon the shore, or in the shallow water close up
to the town, giving to the whole a regular, dock-like, appearance.

So apparently accordant with the rules of art is the direction of the
outer sea-wall, and its position so admirably convenient, that even a
reflecting observer cannot altogether divest himself of the idea, that
it is not a pre-concerted work of art rather than the casual production
of nature. This was certainly my first impression; and for some time I
considered it to have been constructed in a remote period of antiquity,
when the whole of this coast was the busy scene of an extensive and
lucrative commerce, but that in the revolution of time and the
everchanging pursuits of man, the origin of this sea-protecting mole had
been forgotten, and the only remembrance of the people who raised it was
to be found in its name, which certainly recalls to the mind that of a
long-lost nation, the Berbers of Africa. This was theory, of course, and
my opinion soon changed, when I found that no other evidence of man’s
residence existed in this neighbourhood; no traces whatever of that
industry and wealth which must have characterized the people who could
have projected and completed such an extensive marine defence for their
navy and commerce. Subsequently also, geological examinations, and
comparison with other older reefs of sand and coral, now forming part
of, and which extend some distance inland, enabled me to establish its
identity with them in structure and mineral composition. Finally,
therefore, I became convinced that this was another of those beautiful
and benevolent works that Nature—“our kindest mother still”—has provided
for the security of her favourite, man; for with an anticipating care
she has here constructed for him, by a curious yet simple economy, a
safe retreat whenever in his frail bark he might be exposed to the
violence of the winds and waves, on this otherwise inhospitable and
dangerous coast.

In the afternoon a party, consisting of A. Nesbitt, Esq., First Lieut.
of the Euphrates, the Purser, Mr. Powell, and myself, was formed for the
purpose of more closely examining Berberah and its curiosities. One of
the brig’s boats was ordered alongside, and we soon found ourselves
carefully threading a winding course, amidst the numerous fleet of
bogalows moored along-shore, greeted as we passed beneath their huge
misshapen sterns, by the joking salutations and laughing faces of
numerous almè, or slave-girls, who crowded the cabin windows, and the
most striking features of whose dark countenances were rows of pearly
teeth. The boat grounded about thirty yards from dry land, and we were
obliged to be carried upon the shoulders of the crew over a black muddy
beach, being set down amidst heaps of dirt; the rotting debris of the
sea and of the land, drift wood, loose spars, the bones of animals, and
excrements of man, formed a barrier of filth, over which it was
impossible to choose a path, so we at once struck boldly across to the
narrow entrance of what we imagined must be a street, and entered the
town of Berberah.

I should suppose there were at least from four to five thousand huts
placed closely together, uniform in size and elevation, being generally
of an oblong form, about six feet broad, by nine feet in length, and
five feet in height. They consisted of a roof of mats, made of the doom
palm leaf, or of a long dried grass, or else merely half-dried skins
badly preserved, stretched over the usual stick skeleton of a wigwam.
There was not much architectural display, for being all roof, they did
not well admit of it. Nor does convenience appear to be consulted in
laying out streets, or even regular passages, only in so much, that a
small spot on one side of the entrance of each hut is left vacant for
purposes that may be imagined, and a succession of these sweet and
pleasant places make a narrow lane, into which all doors open, and thus
a convenient but dirty street is formed by which alone the visitor is
enabled to perambulate this justly celebrated aromatic yielding fair.

The residences of the few foreign merchants, principally Banians and
Arabs, are exceptions to this general style in the construction of the
houses, and have some pretensions both to appearance and convenience,
usually having mat walls to the height of four or five feet, with a long
slanting roof of grass securely fastened down by sticks of bamboo laid
transversely. The entrance is a kind of hall, opening into the centre of
a room at right angles, and which extends to the right and left, perhaps
ten or twelve feet on each side; its breadth is about ten feet. Behind
this room is another apartment of equal dimensions, which serves as a
store or warehouse, and one end partitioned off by mats, contains the
secluded inmates of the harem.

One of the objects we had in view in visiting the fair was, to procure
some few additional articles I required for my journey into the
interior, namely, a bed carpet, two Arab frocks of yellow nankeen, and a
black camaline or cloak. We accordingly bent our steps towards the
quarter where lived our native friend, Shurmalkee, who was to assist us
in making our purchases, but whose residence we should never have found
but for the crowd of armed idlers who soon surrounded us, and led us
with a kind of barbarous state into the presence of their respected
chief.

The well-known Shurmalkee, or Allee Allee, his real name, is now upwards
of fifty years old, tall, thin, with slightly stooping shoulders; his
face long, with small quickly moving eyes, and thin white beard. The
only deviation from the usual dress of his countrymen is a white cotton
cloth turban, a distinction, with the title of sheik, generally assumed
by those who can read the Koran, or have performed the pilgrimage to
Mecca. Some fifteen or twenty years since, Shurmalkee was chiefly
instrumental in saving part of the crew of the English brig, Mary Anne,
then lying at anchor in the harbour of Berberah, which was attacked and
burned during the night by the natives. He was himself wounded on the
occasion, and the mate and three or four of the brig’s people murdered.
The Indian Government rewarded him munificently at the time for his
generous interference; and since then, finding him honest, intelligent,
and grateful, they have always patronised him, allowing him in our
eastern parts the privilege of a British subject, with liberty to hoist
our flag in his bogalows. He is now our native agent in all transactions
with the Soumaulee inhabitants of Berberah and Zeila. By his industry
and enterprise he has become the richest man along this coast; nor is
there scarcely a prince or petty chief in the adjoining countries who is
not indebted to this African Rothschild.

We rested ourselves upon the only piece of furniture in the mat-walled
room, a rude couch of wood with a bottom of interlaced palm-leaf rope,
covered with a coarse Arab carpet of as many colours as Joseph’s jacket.
We refused to take any refreshment, and sent immediately for the
articles we wanted. As usual, the Islam spirit of despoiling the
Christian exhibited itself in the exorbitant demands of the Arab
merchants, but which in this case was defeated by the prompt
interference of Shurmalkee, who dismissed them very summarily as much to
ours as to their surprise. As soon as they were gone, however, he
explained the cause, and promised to obtain the things himself, before
we went on board, at half the price that had been demanded, desiring us
not to take any farther trouble about them, but to proceed at once to
view the town, at the same time supplying us, as is the custom of these
people, with two natives for guides, and also as sureties for our safety
and freedom from molestation during our walk.

The appointment of these sureties, or Abbahn, as each calls himself, to
every stranger who enters the town, is a singular but very necessary
characteristic of the social condition of the inhabitants of Berberah,
and is deserving of particular notice. Convenience on the one hand and
enterprise on the other, have here brought together the Hindoo Banyan,
the Mahomedan Arab, and the Pagan Soumaulee; for even now scarcely one
half of this latter people profess the Islam faith. With no generally
acknowledged superior, no established law, each inhabitant depends upon
his own keen knife, or that of his Abbahn, for personal safety and the
security of his property. All are equally ready to resort to a bloody
appeal upon the least cause of dispute, so that every day is marked by
some fatal quarrel, and every night by some robbery and violent death.
Even the murdering Danakil shakes his head when he speaks of the Fair of
Berberah, denouncing it as being “shatan, shatan;” whilst the wisest and
the best men of every nation or tribe, who are here assembled, speak
openly their desire, that some powerful Islam, or even Feringee
Government, should take actual possession, both of this port and of
Zeila also. Under such circumstances, the foreign merchant, accustomed
in his own country to the protection of law, or of some regularly
established authority, consents but reluctantly, and then only from the
prospect of immense gains, to risk his person among a people so
violently barbarous as are the Adal tribes occupying this portion of
Africa, who have lost none of their ancient character significantly
recorded in the Periplus, as being “uncivilized, and under no
restraint.” To protect himself in some measure the trader has recourse
to the system of procuring the constant attendance of one or more of the
natives, whose duty it is to guard their employer from molestation.
Two-thirds of the Soumaulee population of the town are engaged in this
manner. No sooner does a stranger arrive than he is surrounded by
natives, each soliciting to be employed as his Abbahn, and are almost as
importunate and as troublesome as the hotel-barkers who infest the piers
of our watering-places. The important privilege of supplying strangers
with Abbahns is monopolized by one tribe living in the neighbourhood of
Berberah, called Raree-good-Hadé, but not without considerable
opposition from another tribe called Raree-Abdullah, with whom serious
conflicts sometimes take place within the town, when all business is
suspended for three or four days in consequence.

Every ship, or bogalow, arriving at the port is boarded, at least a mile
from the shore, by a crowd of Soumaulee Abbahns, and on the occasion of
the Euphrates approaching Berberah, a number of these naked visitors, as
I have before mentioned, swam from shore a very long distance and were
taken on board.

Following Shurmalkee’s advice, we started, but certainly not to see the
town, though we passed through it; for with eyes bent upon the ground,
we carefully picked our way along the narrow street, not four feet wide,
the tops of the stinking skin wigwams and mat-huts presenting one
uniform dark level, just the height of our noses. The outskirts of the
town were equally offensive, but more particularly marked by the vast
quantity of bones of all eatable animals strewed about, and the vestiges
of numerous cooking fires, everywhere telling of the sites of former
houses, and that a few weeks before the fair must have been even more
extensive. About half a mile to the left of the town, on a slightly
elevated mound of sand and coral, was a ruined mosque, the only
appearance of a stone building in the neighbourhood. To this we
proceeded, our conversation turning upon the dirtiness of the town, its
low flat appearance from every point of view, the singular character of
its inhabitants, and the great importance Berberah might assume in the
possession of some highly civilized country, (we meant Britain, of
course,) as one point from whence to spread through Africa the benefits
arising from science, and the happiness attendant upon a knowledge of
the Christian faith.

Around the mosque were numerous graves, each consisting of a low heap of
stones in a line six feet long, enclosed in a large circle of single
stones, the diameter of which sometimes exceeded twenty feet. The
direction of the graves were due east and west, and a small space or
opening in the circle invariably to the south, formed a kind of entrance
into its area. They differed from the strictly Islam tomb in not having
the two little flat stones at the head and foot, in their less conical
form, and in the circular enclosure. Their vicinity to the ruined mosque
told, however, of the profession of the Islam faith during the life of
the deceased, whilst in the manner of the burial it appeared that
surviving friends had still adhered to the customs of their forefathers.
I might, too, have been mistaken in the real character of the building,
and that which I hastily concluded to be a mosque, may have been some
remains of a temple of the ancient faith professed by the Affah nation,
and which I believe was Sabianism.

From the burial-place looking towards the south-east, we had a view of
the town and shipping of Berberah, situated at one extremity of a
spacious triangular plain, which we were told extended one hundred miles
one way in the direction of Zeila, and inland towards Hurrah nearly the
same distance. On our return to Shurmalkee’s house, we walked along the
beach in front of the town, where were numerous women drying
sheep-skins, by stretching them in the sun, pinning them down upon the
hot sands by broken pieces of bones in the absence of sticks. Tobes, or
the large cotton cloths worn by the natives over the shoulders and
around the body, were also bleaching upon the beach after a careless
wash in the sea. As we came nearer to the town we disturbed, as we
passed, several large bodies of men squatting upon the ground in deep
conversation, each armed with a large heavy knife and a spear. We were
also continually being jostled by busy native porters, who were
conveying loads of gum and coffee on board the bogalows, or else laden
with their return burdens of cotton and cotton goods for the stores of
their employers.

We had taken our guns with us, having started with the intention of
proceeding some short distance inland, but the sun was so very powerful,
and the prospect so apparently hopeless, of either instruction or
amusement being derived from the walk, that it was resolved, as I
started on the morrow for Tajourah, that we should proceed immediately
on board the brig, from the deck of which we had a more extensive view
of the town and surrounding country, than any point afforded on shore,
and from our numerous visitors, Arab and native, had excellent
opportunities of deriving information respecting the manners and customs
of the Soumaulee population.

The appearance of the surrounding country seems to indicate that at a
period not very remote, the whole of it has either been upheaved from
beneath the sea, or that the retreat of the latter has left the plain,
extending to the westward and southward of Berberah, the dry land we now
find it. At one time the coast about here must have been of a somewhat
similar character to that which is now presented by the harbour of
Zeila, deep narrow channels existing between extensive coral reefs,
which, at the distance of three miles from the town, have not one fathom
in depth of water over them. At the time of such submersion of the plain
of Berberah, the sea must then have come up to the nearly regular line
of low volcanic hills, which, commencing a few miles distant from the
town, stretch in a south-western direction for many miles inland. This
portion of the then sea of Aden included a considerable part of the
country between Zeila and Hurrah, for the present coast-line, from the
former town to Berberah, assumed as a base, whilst Hurrah may represent
the apex, will give some idea of the triangular form of this now
habitable tract, which, I conclude, has been raised above the level of
the sea by the operation of some vast upheaving force. Whatever
testimony is required for this opinion is presented by the geological
character of the numerous small hills to the south of Berberah: old
coral reefs studding the place with eminences about twenty-five feet
high as far as the eye can reach. If these formations are considered as
insufficient authority for my founding an opinion upon the submarine
origin of this country and its recent elevation, I can only excuse
myself upon the plea of endeavouring to give a better idea of its
appearance by this allusion to its geological character, and which will
at least, I hope, assist the reader in forming a more complete picture
of Berberah and its environs.

The next day was occupied in placing the boxes and packages of the
Mission into the native boat, hired from Shurmalkee. This was effected
by noon, and after a parting dinner with our kind friends on board the
brig, Mr. Cruttenden and myself proceeded to take possession of our
fresh berths in the bogalow.

The little cabin of our new craft was about three feet high, and six or
seven feet long, with a roof and floor of bamboo canes, over which were
placed a few mats. Two servants of Mr. Cruttenden’s being on board, they
were told to prepare the evening meal; and anticipating by the direction
and force of the wind that we should be off the town of Zeila by the
next morning, we spread our carpets on the cabin-floor, and composed
ourselves to reflection or repose, no sufficient inducement offering, to
tempt us to expose ourselves in the sun upon the frail unsheltered deck
above us. After supper a conversation, in which I could not join, was
entered into with the ras, or captain of the boat, by Mr. Cruttenden,
whose knowledge of Arabic admitted of this amusement; but as he
generally interpreted to me the most useful and interesting portions,
and added some most valuable information which he had collected in his
long intercourse with these people, I had reason to feel happy that
circumstances had thus thrown me, upon the eve of the commencement of my
own travels, into the society of an experienced and clever _voyageur_.

_March 6th._—We found ourselves this morning, on awakening, anchored at
some distance from Zeila, at least six miles. The shallowness of the sea
over the outstanding coral reef prevented even our small vessel from
approaching nearer to the town, and I could see from the deck several
natives wading from our own and other vessels towards the shore. In
about one hour, the keeper of the principal gate seaward came on board
in a small boat, bringing three sheep as a present from the governor. He
was accompanied by two or three of the Arab soldiers, of whom sixty or
seventy are employed to defend the town, in case of its being attacked
by the Soumaulee of the surrounding countries.

From what I could learn, Zeila was held by Arab and native merchants;
the Dowlar, or governor, being appointed by the Sheriff of Mocha, who
formerly received some small tribute from the town. Allee Shurmalkee has
since my visit either seized or purchased this town, and hoisted
independent colours upon its walls; but as I know little or nothing save
the mere fact of its possession by that Soumaulee chief, and as this
change occurred whilst I was in Abyssinia, I shall not say anything more
upon the subject.

The officer who visited us in our boat, carried rather ostentatiously at
his belt, two large and very rudely made wooden keys, with projecting
bits of iron wire, which formed a kind of apology for wards. From their
appearance, I should suppose that the locks they fitted were not either
of a very intricate or very substantial character, and not such as were
calculated, without other aids, to effect the exclusion of unwelcome
visitors. I had not an opportunity of examining the defences of Zeila,
beyond a sight of its wall, twenty or thirty feet high, over which could
be seen certain whitewashed and grey stone houses, with flat roofs.
Besides two old guns, which we could see from the boat, lying dismounted
upon the sands, I was told there were a very few others placed on that
part of the wall looking inland.

Mr. Cruttenden forwarded to the governor some few pounds of gunpowder in
return for the sheep, but declined on this occasion his polite
invitation to visit him, promising to see him on his return to Berberah,
which he hoped would be in a few days, after settling affairs for me in
Tajourah. During the night, we took advantage of the land breeze, and
made Tajourah by the middle of the next day. The difficulty of fixing
upon our anchorage was not so nice an affair as with the brig. The
narrow and confined opening on the sunken coral reef forms a kind of
submarine haven, directly in front of Tajourah, in which is the only
secure anchorage. It was easily found by our vessel, whose light draught
of water admitted of its going over the reef in search of it; and when
found, allowed of our bringing up within a very few yards from the
shore. This was no little convenience, for our bogalow only carried for
communication with the land a small canoe made out of a single tree, and
barely able to carry two persons. Mr. Cruttenden’s sword was trusted to
the hands of one of the crew, an excellent swimmer, who took rather a
novel mode of conveying his bright burden to the shore, swimming the
whole way completely immersed, save the hand and arm bearing the sword,
which was thus carried perpendicularly to the body, with an intuitive
knowledge of the mechanical relief to the muscles of the arm afforded by
a weight being carried in that manner.

Mr. Cruttenden trusted himself into the frail and ticklish canoe, which
bobbled upon the surface of the water as if its ill-adjusted centre of
gravity would upset itself. He, however, was placed, not without a
certain degree of wetting, safely upon the land; and the dexterous
paddler of this tiny craft returned for me. I really do not know how I
managed to convey myself into it, nor can I account reasonably for its
doing so much for me to the shore; but I recollect very well that I
considered it a regular escape, for had I been upset in my then weak
state from my previous illness, I should certainly have finished my
African travels in the Bay of Tajourah.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                              CHAPTER III.


Reception in Tajourah.—Arrangements for our
  stay.—Occupation.—Amusements.—Geological character of the
  country.—Engaging camels for the journey.—Customs of the
  townspeople.—Public buildings.—Religious ceremonies, law, and justice.


I JOINED Mr. Cruttenden at the house of the Sultaun, being directed on
my way by a party of little slave children, who formed a rather
troublesome train, as they kept importuning me for buttons and beads.
The younger girls and infants, however, could not by any inducement be
prevailed upon to come near me; and what with the shouting plaguing
boys, who followed behind, and the screaming flying children before me,
I began to think myself more of a curiosity than I had before believed
myself to be.

The Sultaun of Tajourah with considerable politeness placed us,
immediately on our arrival, in possession of the elevated cabin before
mentioned, and the room below, and then left us to hasten forward the
preparation of a meal, consisting of boiled rice, which was soon after
brought in. It was placed before us in a large saucer-like dish, with a
quantity of milk in a curious kind of basket, made of the larger nerves
of the doom palm leaf, sewed very closely together with a finer
description of the same material; the inside was overlaid by some black
vegetable matter, but of what character I could never properly
understand.

Having arranged our legs as decently as we could around the table, which
was merely a large mat of the palm leaf, we had nearly satisfied
ourselves before the arrival of some promised lumps of meat, which,
strong and tough, challenged the integrity of our teeth, in the vain
endeavours we made to do justice to this part of our host’s hospitality,
for we might almost as well have attempted to devour the piece of round
leather upon which it was brought. The latter piece of furniture, at all
events, afforded some degree of pleasure, for I saw immediately an
explanation of the obscure passage in Æneid, where the Harpy Celæno is
made to say—

              ... “Ambesas subigat malis absumere mensas,”

which has been by commentators considered improbable and absurd, from
the difficulty of supposing how tables, according to our ideas of them,
could be eaten. By the sailors in the Red Sea, and among the Arabs,
these leathern interpositions between the ground and the food are very
general indeed; and I do not see why, in the extremity of a castaway
crew, or in a time of famine, these tables, which they certainly are,
should not be devoured for want of other food; and parallel cases have
frequently occurred in modern times, in the numerous recorded incidents
where shoes and even the leathern peaks of soldiers’ caps have formed
the only sustenance that could be obtained under similar distressing
circumstances.

In accordance with the usual custom in Arabia, and which custom has
probably been imported from that country with the Mahomedan religion,
the first day of our arrival was spent in friendly conversation with the
people of the town, who were acquainted with Mr. Cruttenden from
previous intercourse. All allusion to the business we had come upon was
carefully avoided, the established etiquette of hospitable politeness
leaving to the stranger the first day of arrival for rest after his
journey, and for making him welcome on the part of his entertainers.

I now assumed the dress which had been recommended as the most
appropriate for my journey. Over a pair of loose drill trousers, I
donned a long yellow frock of nankeen, with sleeves narrowing to the
wrist, of a kind which has been used by the Arabs from the time in which
the Periplus was written, for among the articles of the commerce of the
Red Sea there enumerated, are these very frocks, and the material of
which they are made was then principally imported by Indian vessels, as
at the present day. A large straw hat, of the double Manilla kind, with
a thick layer of cotton wool between the two walls, formed a very light
covering for the head, and being quite impenetrable to the direct rays
of an almost vertical sun, was a sufficient protection against the evil
most to be feared, “a coup de soleil.”

The morning after our arrival, a survey was taken of the stores which,
during the past night, had been brought from the bogalow, and placed,
part in the lower room of our house, and part in the little court
adjoining, so that they might be under the eye of Nassah, one of the
Arab servants of Mr. Cruttenden, who was appointed to watch over, and
who in fact slept among and upon, the boxes and packages. The apartment
occupied by Mr. Cruttenden and myself was the elevated cabin,
immediately adjoining the residence of the Sultaun. It was rather a long
room, with a sloping roof, the centre of which was a few inches above
our heads, but at the sides was only two feet high from the floor. The
walls consisted of frames, in which were sliding shutters of most
irregular construction, and of every dirty colour that can be conceived.
The floor of the upper end was raised about a foot into a kind of dais,
or, as Mr. Cruttenden styled it, a spare bed, not being more than five
feet in its longest direction, and upon which had been spread his
sleeping carpets for the night. The entrance into our novel residence
was a square hole in the farther corner of the floor, through which we
ascended and descended, like stage ghosts, carefully inserting our toes
in any little crevices we could see among sundry dry and rotten sticks,
which assisted the mats in forming the wall of our lower apartment.

Besides Nassah and a young man named Abdullah, a native of Mocha, who
officiated as cook, we had another attendant, a slave who had been lent
to us by Shurmalkee, on account of his acquaintance with the Arabic and
Dankalli languages, and who was of considerable use to us as our private
interpreter.

Whilst we staid in Tajourah, our daily occupations were not of a very
varied character, yet still they were such that did not fatigue us with
their sameness. Every morning at sunrise, attended by Nassah, we
strolled down to the beach, and indulged ourselves in the health-giving
bath. Towards evening, accompanied by some of the chief men of the town,
we amused ourselves and astonished them by our dexterity with the rifle.
The Tajourah people themselves only boasted the possession of a solitary
matchlock, and the daring proprietor of this not unfrequently joined us,
trying his piece with a new silver mounted one which we had brought with
us as a present from Capt. Haines to Izaak, but as no inducement could
prevail either upon him or his son to discharge it, Nassah was always
called upon to relieve these gentlemen from the danger and honour of
firing.

The features of our orderly Nassah were a good specimen of those which
characterize a numerous class of Arabs, living on the sea-coast of
Arabia, who are decidedly of negro origin. The word which designates
them, in fact, expresses this; Seedee being derived from the word
_Assuard_, which signifies in the Arabic language, black. His face was
nearly triangular, the apex at the chin, the base a long flat forehead,
whilst his nose was the exact reverse of this, the apex being between
the eyes, and its base below spreading out into two large and flat-like
nostrils, which seemed to repose upon, rather than arise from, his dusky
cheeks. His mouth was an awful gap; but all the deformity of his
countenance was more than compensated by the pleasing expression of his
humorous looking little eyes, that told of single purposeness, fidelity,
and contentment; and that quiet resignment to circumstances, which was a
great characteristic of his manner and mode of expressing himself, “If
it please Allah,” “Allah has me in his keeping,” being favourite replies
of his. Tall and erect; his posture graceful without effort, in his well
arranged Arab costume his appearance was very picturesque. Always on his
guard from any surprise, and proud of his occupation, I could see that
he was sincerely attached to his master, Mr. Cruttenden. He acquitted
himself very well as a marksman, with the clumsy but handsome matchlock,
and was certainly the “magnus Apollo” of the black beauties of Tajourah.

Our rendezvous on occasions of these shooting matches, was generally on
the summit of a low cliff of coral limestone, which stood a few hundred
yards in rear of the town, and which extended two miles inland to the
base of a gravel bank, perhaps 100 feet high, capped by a thin stratum
of coarse black lava. The undermining of this bank is very rapid and
considerable during the rainy season, so that large masses of the
superincumbent lava are continually breaking off and rolling into the
beds of numberless temporary torrents below. The period of the first
appearance of this lava cannot have been more than a few hundred years
ago, and volcanoes have certainly existed on this coast within the
recorded history of the earth. A few miles in the interior, between
Raheita and Tajourah, is still a range of hills evidently of igneous
origin, called by the natives Jibel Jann, or Demon Mountains. The same
name is also given to a more recently active, but very small volcano
situated on the road to Shoa; and which was represented by the natives
to be the residence of some turbulent genius confined there by Soloman,
in accordance with some of the commonly received Arabic traditions.

This coral reef, however, afforded the most interesting proof of the
raising of the coast having occurred during the present existing state
of things, as regards the direction of winds and currents in the
surrounding sea, as also of its being constructed by the same species of
Zoophites, who are now producing its counterpart in the present bay. I
have stood on this old inland reef during the afternoon, when the
reflection of the sun’s rays from the surface of the present immersed
bed of coral, in front of Tajourah, has plainly showed the parallelism
of its outer edge with that of the reef upon which I was standing, and a
separation or indenture in the latter also corresponded exactly with the
narrow channel in which anchorage is now found near to the present
shore, and which must have been produced, in both cases, by the
operation of similar natural causes, acting under exactly similar
circumstances. More alteration in this part of the world has been
produced by volcanic action than can be conceived by endeavouring to
form an idea of it by comparison with the changes effected by the
occasional outbreaks of Vesuvius or Etna. Convulsions of the earth, and
ejection of molten lava upon a most extensive scale, can only account
for the great alteration which has evidently, in modern times, taken
place in the physical geography of the whole country of Arabia, the
eastern shore of Africa, and probably over a considerable portion of the
bed of the Indian Ocean in this neighbourhood.

Sir G. M‘Kenzie’s description of the phenomena which have attended
volcanic action in Iceland, approaches somewhat to that which may be
supposed was here once exhibited, or that a succession of convulsions,
similar to the great earthquake of Kutch, in Scinde, of which Sir S.
Raffles gives such an interesting account, have here, at some former
period, exerted the same appalling agents, and produced the extensive
alterations in the previous character of this once blessed land,
abounding with life and with natural beauty, but which is now, even by
the Arab, wandering over his almost equally miserable desert,
designated, and most appropriately, as the “deserted quarter of the
world.”

The day after our arrival was occupied in preparing and presenting such
presents as were intended for the chief people of Tajourah, generally
consisting of long robes or body-cloths of white calico, and fotahs, or
finely manufactured parti-coloured waistcloth, much prized by both the
Arabs and the Dankalli. After this important business was concluded to
the satisfaction of all, some conferences were held respecting the
number of camels we should require, to apportion fairly among the
numerous owners of them, the stores to be conveyed up; for the
remuneration that was determined upon being very high, plenty of
applicants were found putting in their claim to be employed. The
competition would have been very beneficial, could it have been brought
to bear upon the price required for each camel; but the unsophisticated
Adal savage was as acute upon such matters as the craftiest Chinese, and
the system of the Hong merchants of monopolizing the trade was fully
acted upon by the chief men of Tajourah. Mr. Cruttenden, as Wakeel of
the English Government, was obliged to transact all business through the
hands of the Sultaun’s agents, who were Izaak, the brother of the
Sultaun, and his friend and seconder on all matters of State policy,
Mahomed Cassim. These worthies really deserved whatever present they
received subsequently to my departure from Mr. Cruttenden, for the
trouble, anxiety, and real danger they must have incurred in satisfying,
pacifying, and denying the crowd of bullying murderers, who all required
a share of the hard, bright dollars, which were always sure to be poured
into the town in payment of those services the English Government might
require from them. Calahms, or councils, were being continually held,
now to settle quarrels arising out of the discussion, and then to
discuss again some other subject, until another quarrel had arisen.

Nearly a month was spent in this unsatisfactory manner, when Mr.
Cruttenden resolved upon immediately returning to Aden, taking with him
the packages, thus putting an end to the deception and procrastination
we had submitted to so long. He accordingly sent a letter to Captain
Young, who was still at Berberah, requesting him to send again
Shurmalkee’s boat to receive us. Immediately this transpired, which it
did only so soon as the messenger had departed, we observed a remarkable
increase of energy on the part of Izaak and Cassim, for during that day
we were disturbed by the continual succession of parties coming to
examine, and endeavouring to form some judgment as to the weight of, the
different boxes, favouritism showing itself in allowing friends to make
these surreptitious visits by night also, to determine the choice of
loads for their camels. Excuses the next day were also made for our long
detention, and assurances that we should certainly start the first
propitious day, which was considered to be the next Friday, at the time
of the afternoon prayer.

During the four weeks we had been compelled to reside in Tajourah, few
incidents occurred worthy of being recorded. Most of our time we were
sitting below in the court, on a rude, cord-bottomed couch, covered with
a mat. Close to the ends were placed two large pillows, belonging to Mr.
Cruttenden, for us to recline upon; whilst, before us, squatting upon
the ground, and ranged along the opposite wall, were generally some of
our Dankalli acquaintances, who seemed to be anxious to learn something
of our institutions and manners. Discussions upon the Christian religion
were very frequent; and they soon were made to understand the difference
between us and the Roman Catholic nations, whom they include under one
name—Feringee.

I also became acquainted with a singular mode of descent, or manner in
which the power and title of Sultaun is transmitted to the next
possessor. It appears that Tajourah is principally inhabited by two
subdivisions of the great Adu Allee tribe, the same from whom it has
been asserted the Abyssinian name of this people (Adal) is derived.
These two families (the Burhanto and the Dinsarrah) have each their own
Chief, who alternately assumes the supremacy of the town on the death of
the other, whilst the next expectant fills the office of Vizier, or
chief adviser. This mode of succession does not appear to be peculiar to
Tajourah, but to be a general principle of state economy through all the
important tribes; for, in the same manner, I had an opportunity of
observing, was determined the possession of the chief dignity among the
Debenee; and I was given to understand it was also the custom of the
Wahamah, and the Muditee of Owssa. The present Sultaun of Tajourah is
named Mahomed, and belongs to the Burhanto family; the Vizier, who was
absent on a pilgrimage to Mecca when we first arrived, was the principal
man of the Dinsarrah. He returned in time to receive a present, to
prevent him interfering in the arrangements, which were then just
completed, and a promise of future patronage on the next occasion of a
kafila being required by our Government. His arrival accelerated, in
some measure, our departure; for had we remained any time afterwards, he
would certainly, with his friends, have compelled a change in the
distribution of the stores, and thus have led to another detention, or
perhaps would have entirely prevented their going up to Shoa. Izaak and
Cassim, who had had it so far in their own hands, were therefore
interested in hastening the departure of the kafila; and from the day of
the Vizier’s first appearance in Tajourah, I found the boxes were
gradually removed from under our own care to the houses of the carriers.
On occasions of counsel, it was usual for the principal men of the town
(Hukells, as I heard them called) to assemble in front of the Sultaun’s
residence, where they sat upon their heels, or upon the large stones and
trunks of the date trees placed for that purpose. With his back leaning
against the enclosure of his own house, the Sultaun Mahomed occupied a
stone, with Izaak generally sitting on another by his side, together
helping the parties present to small cups of strong black coffee. This
was poured out of a long-necked, globular, earthenware vessel, of common
red clay, into the mouth of which was stuffed a quantity of dried grass,
to act as a strainer. The cups were of the same coarse manufacture,
being exactly in form and appearance like the very smallest flower-pots
in a green-house, except that the latter, without the aperture at the
bottom, would, I think, be much more elegant and convenient.

The usual dress of the males of Tajourah was the fotah, or waist-cloth,
and the sarree, which is an Indian term for part of a woman’s dress,
exactly corresponding to it in use and shape. It is a long robe, worn
round the body, generally of white calico, with a red or blue border at
the two extremities; it is usually among the townspeople seven cubits
long—that is, seven times the length of the hand and arm from the elbow.
Among the Bedouins—the people inhabiting the country—it is but three and
a-half, or about the same size as a Scotch plaid, which I noticed one
day, as I saw the two distinct and yet similar formed garments drying
together upon the ground after a shower of rain.

The ladies wear a long blue chemise with short sleeves, and a very heavy
necklace, made of beads, shells, or of large carved pieces of mother of
pearl, reposes upon their delicate bosoms. Ear-rings are a very
extraordinary vanity amongst them. They consist of large loops of
twisted brass wire, five or six in number, placed each through its own
perforation in the outer lobe of the ear; whilst depending from each of
these is one, sometimes two oblong plates of tin, or pewter, at least an
inch broad, and one and a-half inch in length. Bracelets and anklets of
brass and pewter, large and heavy, were very common among them; and as
they chanted their monotonous songs of prayer or grief, they clattered
them against each other as a kind of accompaniment to their voices. They
dressed their hair in a number of small plaits, which were connected
round the back of the head by parallel bands of red or white cotton,
interwoven with and crossing the hair transversely, and in this manner
forming a kind of tippet upon the neck and shoulders. I was once a
witness to the difficulty of unravelling or combing out this intangled
mass, which reminded me of the hair of Samson, interwoven with the web
of the loom. The lady whose hair was to be operated upon sat upon a
stone in the court, beneath one of our windows, and behind her, on her
knees, was a stout hale slave girl, who held in both hands a
long-handled wooden fork-like comb, having four very strong prongs,
which she dragged through the woolly, greasy, and black hair of her
mistress with the force of a groom currying a horse’s tail.

When not attired in their full dress, or are occupied in household
duties, the women wear nothing else but the fotah, or waistcloth, which
appears to be a garment common both to male and female Dankalli. The
better kind of fotah passes twice round the body, and the ends are
secured by the women by merely tucking them under a fold of the upper
edge; but the men fasten it up with the belt of their never absent short
knife. Sandals made of several layers of cow-skin, prepared with the
hair on and sewed together by a thong of leather, sometimes in a very
neat and ornamental manner, are worn by both sexes, and are secured to
the foot by a loop for the second toe, and slight strips of leather
crossing the ancle are attached to the heel, and to two small lappels on
the sides.

The slave children, who live in the houses of their owners merely for
the purpose of recruiting after their long and painful journey from
Abyssinia, live happily enough whilst in Tajourah; for too young to
comprehend the evils of their destiny, and their bodily wants being
carefully attended to, they soon regain their lost condition and health,
and are then forwarded to the markets of Mocha and other parts of the
Red Sea. They are nearly all dressed in a long dirty frock of very
coarse calico, which constitutes the whole of their apparel. The male
inhabitants of Tajourah have no other occupation than the traffic in
slaves, which they exchange for the merchandise of India and Arabia, but
principally the former, whose traders they meet at the fair of Berberah.

The women occupy themselves with household duties, and carrying water
from a well about half a mile from the town. The water is carried in
large entire skins of the goat, which they tan with the pounded bark of
a mimosa, very common in the jungle near the town, and which, moistened
with a little water, they rub well into the skin. If it be designed to
be divested of the hair, the skin, before being tanned, is left for two
or three days until slight putrefaction has commenced, and the hair is
then easily detached. The most laborious occupation of the women is
grinding the jowaree, or millet, which is imported into Tajourah from
Aden and the Persian Gulf. They use for this purpose a large flat stone,
concave from above downwards, and placed upon the ground, behind this
upon her knees, the woman, half-naked, with long depending skinny
breasts, hangs over the mill, passing and repassing the grain beneath a
large heavy rolling-pin of stone. During the progress of the operation,
she frequently sprinkles the bruised mass with water, until a fine
powdered paste is produced, which, without more preparation, is carried
away to be baked upon the kiln-like oven I have before described. It
requires some time to make a few pounds of bread in this manner; and
when baked into flat cakes of about one pound each in weight, they are,
as might be expected, very heavy, and of a disagreeable acid taste.
Whilst grinding, two or three slaves, or women, (for the same term is
applied to all,) relieve each other, so that labour, except in the house
of a poor man, is not great.

I saw in Tajourah two old men weaving, who had learned the art in
Abyssinia; also an Arab blacksmith. It is usual for all the young men to
be able to make their own sandals. One of their principal occupations
in-doors is to make wooden spoons, sometimes carved in a most elegant
manner, and fedeenahs, or rests for the head during the night, and which
are the constant companion of the Dankalli when journeying. They differ
considerably in form from the wooden pillows of the New Zealanders; but
still it is singular that a somewhat similar manner of resting the head
during the night is in use among these two distant and distinct nations.
The ancient Egyptians employed the fedeenah exactly of the shape of
those of the Dankalli; but these, it seems, were sometimes made of
alabaster, and covered with hieroglyphics.

The principal mosque of the place stood at the further end of a large
open space, reaching to the sea-shore, in the centre of which was the
solitary cannon used as a saluting battery on particular occasions, and
the touchhole of which vied in extent with the bore of the piece.
Occupying one side of the open space was the square enclosure of mats,
with little huts of the same material, which had been erected for the
use of the English agent in Tajourah, Mr. Hatchetoor, on the occasion of
the last kafila, or second division of the stores, being sent up to Shoa
with Messieurs Bernatz and Scott. Here, during one night, three of the
native servants were treacherously murdered as they lay asleep, by some
of the inhabitants of the town. On the other side were a few native
houses, standing in the usual compounds, or courts, and out of the doors
of which peeped, with a mixture of curiosity and alarm, several little
slave children whenever we passed by.

This mosque stood between the commencement of two narrow lanes, the one
leading through the town, the other to the Sultaun’s house, and
completed the third side of the irregular square, which was open towards
the sea. The mosque was built in a square form, with the untrimmed
branches of trees, as they were cut off in the jungle, and thatched with
leaves of the palm-tree, fastened down by the common string of the
country, made of the leaf of the doom palm split and twisted by the hand
into a strong rope; a small fence of stones, two or three feet high,
enclosed in front a little semicircular court, in which were planted
four palm-trees, two on each side of the entrance. In this court,
squatting under the shade of the trees, or idly lounging upon the top of
the wall, were collected all the idlers of the town; and as these,
besides gossiping and dozing, were particularly attentive to the daily
prayers and ablutions as prescribed in the Koran, I had not a doubt that
they were the worst characters in Tajourah, for I never met among the
Mahomedans a strict observer of the stated hours and forms of prayer,
but I always found him to be crafty, designing, and treacherous. The
only man I ever met with during my subsequent journey, who deliberately,
and for days, watched for an opportunity to assassinate me, was one of
these pharisaical rascals, who always chose the largest boulder or
detached piece of rock he could find, on which to exalt himself above
every one else during the performance of his prostrations or prayers.

Two other mosques, the only stone buildings in Tajourah, were much
inferior in size to the one I have just described, being but a foot or
two higher than the devotees; the roofs were flat, and a white
lime-wash, prepared from the roasted shell coral reef behind the town,
slacked with water, had been freely applied to the walls outside, but
having no windows, the interiors looked like open sepulchres. One of
these stood at a short distance behind the house of the Sultaun, the
other flanked the sea front of the town, at the opposite extremity of
which was a ruined stone building, of a square form, standing close to
the water’s edge, and which, I suppose, was meant originally for a
protecting tower, but nothing except the remains of the walls were left
to enable us to form any idea of its original character. The mosque on
the sea-shore was much frequented at the time of the morning prayers,
immediately before and after sunrise, great numbers of the inhabitants
taking advantage of the sea to indulge in a more extensive ablution than
they could conveniently perform during the rest of the day.

Although I always professed to be of the same religion as Mahomed, that
we both could have worshipped God together, and as regarded the stated
number of times, I might also have been an advocate for the first
proposal made to him by the angel Gabriel, of at least five hundred
prayers per day being necessary, still I objected to the laws and
regulations he had established, and preferred, with all deference to the
opinions of my Dankalli friends the institutes of Jesus; and as they
admitted he was a prophet sent from God, I contended that I could not be
much in error in following his instructions, even if judged by the
Koran. I did not find it necessary, therefore, to become, a convert to
Islamism, or I might, as the enterprising Burckhardt has done, dilate
upon their belief and form of worship.

I noticed, that they prayed very regularly five times a-day, with their
faces turned towards Mecca; once immediately before and again after
sunrise; then came the Assair, or afternoon prayer, between three and
four o’clock; and again before and after sunset. Each service is
preceded by carefully washing all parts of the body that are not covered
by the clothes. The ceremony commences by several devotees standing up
in one long row in front of the mosque, which is always so built as to
have a proper regard to the situation of Mecca. Their open hands are
first brought closely up to the ears, whilst they repeat some short
ejaculations respecting the greatness of God, the compassionate, the
only one; then stooping in the attitude of a low bow, the hands resting
on the knees, something of the same sort is again repeated, and down
they all sit together, in the Arab fashion, on the bent legs, not
crossed in front, like the Turks, but turned under them the contrary
way. After sundry satisfactory looks about them, and stroking their
beards, if they have any, all bend their heads to the earth, pressing
the forehead hard upon the ground two or three times successively; then,
after a little more sitting, turning to their right and left hands, they
repeat, in each position, protestations of peace with all the world, and
rising up, depart to their several avocations, meeting again at the next
stated hour of prayer, to repeat exactly the same devout ceremonial.

On one occasion, I had a good laugh at the little play of some boys of
the Sultaun’s household, who pretended to go through the ceremony of
circumcision, and in which they performed their parts with great
gravity, and all attention, no doubt, to the details of that, to them,
very interesting operation. It must be observed, that circumcision among
the Dankalli, as among other Mahomedans, is frequently deferred to a
very late period, the boys, or young men rather, being sometimes sixteen
or eighteen years old before they are thus made eligible for reception
into the paradise of the faithful. To proceed, however, with a
description of the ceremony, as it was acted in the little court before
our house. The door being thrown open by the attendants, a boy,
representing the grave old Kadee, with the operator, entered side by
side, followed by the father and the candidate for circumcision, and
these by a crowd of friends who, when the operation began, formed a
circle before the Kadee and the father, who sat very sedately upon a
couch. The operator, with a piece of stick, then commenced acting his
part, whilst the boy laid upon his back on the ground, kicking and
shrieking, pretended to suffer great pain, which, as in our pantomimes,
was, of course, the fun of the whole thing. He, unfortunately, overdid
his part, at least did it so naturally and with so much noise, that some
of the neighbours came rushing in to see what accident had happened.
Their appearance put to flight the whole company of juvenile actors, who
got off, however, with some tumbles over each other through the narrow
doorway, except the circumcised one, who being caught by Shurmalkee’s
slave, Abdullah, got a few cuffs upon the head, and a kick or two
behind, with a polite request that he should convey them to the mock
Kadee, as part payment of his expenses on the occasion. I took a note of
this as it afforded me an opportunity of completing the account of the
ceremonials of the Mahomedan religion by Burckhardt, all of which,
excepting the circumcision, and which, by the by, he must have submitted
to, he has so admirably described. Without compromising myself, I had an
opportunity in this farce of witnessing the principal features of the
first necessary step of Mahomedan proselytism, as performed according to
law.

I frequently observed a religious ceremony that seemed to be a
spontaneous outbreak of religious fervour on the part of individuals,
rather than a generally recognised portion of their devotions. Towards
evening, a large circle of some twenty or thirty men would commence a
loud and long-continued repetition of the word Allah, for nearly a
quarter of an hour; and then being served, each drank a small cup of
coffee, whilst one of their number, with an open Koran on the ground
before him, read a portion of one of the chapters, at the termination of
which would commence again the calling upon the name of Allah, rocking
themselves backwards and forwards in the most violent manner until
nearly exhausted, when another supply of coffee being ready, and a
portion of the Koran read as before, they prepared themselves for
another bout of the vociferation. This they called a zekar, and would
sometimes keep it up the whole night, much to the disturbance of their
less devout neighbours.

The Dankalli women are greater apparent devotees of Islamism than those
of any other eastern country I visited. Continually, whilst at work,
they chant some sacred passages of the Koran, or assemble in each
other’s houses to join in domestic zekars; and here I must observe, that
though somewhat attempted on the part of the Sultaun’s family, from an
affectation of Arab customs, the women are not precluded, except by
their own feelings of propriety, from the freest intercourse with the
men.

In their judicial proceedings, they affect to be directed entirely by
the law of the Koran, and have a very quiet fat old Kadee, who
superintends marriages, circumcisions, and other civil and religious
ceremonies; but from what I could learn from a conversation held by Mr.
Cruttenden with Cassim, very summary proceedings sometimes characterize
their administration of justice.

Ohmed, the eldest son of the Sultaun, had with real Eastern cunning,
obtained a present from us on the plea of his going to Abasha with me.
On the near approach of our departure he intimated, in reply to our
asking him if he were ready, that when he said he was going to Abasha he
meant to Gondah, and not with me to Shoa; and seemed highly pleased at
having thus outwitted Mr. Cruttenden. who supposed that by Abasha, Ohmed
meant to say that he was to accompany me to Shoa. Of course, under our
circumstances, Mr. Cruttenden could only take this deception in good
part; but in the evening, Ohmed and a good number of the principal men
being in our place, Mr. Cruttenden commenced the conversation by asking
Cassim, if there were justice to be procured in Tajourah? “Of course;
certainly. Do we not profess Islamism?” was the prompt and almost
offended reply. “Then how do you punish theft?” asked Mr. Cruttenden.
“Oh,” replied Cassim, “we drag the thief down to the beach, and haul him
about in the sea-water till his stomach is quite full, we then drag him
along the sand till he throws it up again; after that, we kill an ox,
eat him, and make the thief pay for it; and he then is received into
society again.” This was too amusing a relation not to be interpreted to
me by the kindness of Mr. Cruttenden, who postponed the application of
the reason of his inquiry, to the deceit practised upon him by Ohmed,
for the purpose of enjoying with me this account of the wild justice of
the Dankalli.


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                              CHAPTER IV.


Reception of visitors by the Sultaun of Tajourah.—Arrival in that town,
  from Shoa, of Demetrius and Joannes.—Ruins and remains of
  antiquity.—Preparations for our departure.—The day fixed for our
  start.—Leave Tajourah on the 27th of March.


DURING my stay in Tajourah, the fair at Berberah broke up, and three or
four boats belonging to the town returned, some of them firing guns to
announce their approach, the reports of which, as was justly observed by
Nassah, being very thin compared to good fat English ones.

As each boat anchored, the rais and passengers, if there were any,
dressed in their cleanest and best apparel, proceeded to the Sultaun’s
house, escorted by a mob of the townspeople, to an audience with his
Majesty, who received them with great formality. Every one touched his
hand, and then kissed their own, placing the ends of their fingers
immediately afterwards on their foreheads, the usual mode of Arab
salutation. After this, the whole assembly repeated the opening chapter
of the Koran called the Fahtah, to intimate the peaceable nature of the
meeting. The latest news of the fair were now discussed, the
ever-circulating coffee sent round, the Fahtah again was joined in; and
so terminated the business of welcoming the return of the parties home.

Some three or four days previous to our starting, a kafila from
Abyssinia came in, and with it arrived two Greeks, who had long been
residing at the court of Salie Selassie, the Negus, or King of Shoa.
Their names were Demetrius and Joannes; whilst in Abyssinia they had
professed Christianity, but now found it convenient to be very devout
Mahomedans, and called themselves, the former, Hadjji Mahomed, the
latter, Hadjji Yoseph. They were in no very good condition, having been
robbed on this side the Hawash, by one of the tribes of the Dankalli
people living near that river. They reported also, that three discharged
Indian servants of Capt. Harris’s were killed at the same time, and
accounted for their own escape by their being Mahomedans. They farther
informed us that only one half of the stores last sent up had reached
Shoa, the rest having been plundered by the Bedouins. All the English
party had, however, arrived in safety. They begged to be given a passage
to Aden, and also for any article of clothing we might have to spare.

Our interview with these men took place in the usual court of audience,
before the Sultaun, Isaak, and Cassim; and Mr. Cruttenden having in the
meantime sent his servant for two shirts, Cassim, to prevent any dispute
between the two men, very gravely undertook to decide by lot which shirt
each should have. Placing his face in his cloth he received from
Demetrius a piece of stick, and from Joannes a small stone, without of
course knowing the choice of either, then uncovering his face, he placed
upon each shirt the representative of the individual that should have
it; and who, accordingly, received from the hands of the Sultaun the, to
them, very welcome present. After our interview with these men, and we
had returned to our own courtyard, Cassim came in and remarked, it was
very foolish of Demetrius and his friend affecting Mahomedanism in
Tajourah, when their religion and situation in Shoa were so well known
to him, he having frequently seen them in that country. He seemed rather
vexed at the mistrust evinced by this circumstance; and, appealing to
us, asked if we thought they would have been any the worse treated had
they come in the character of Christians. We found afterwards, that with
all their protestations of poverty, these men had brought down several
slave-girls, whom they were desirous of carrying over to Mocha, and by
their sale obtain funds to carry them to Constantinople. This coming to
the ears of Mr. Cruttenden, he peremptorily refused them a passage in
his boat, and told them that if they brought their slaves to Aden, their
relative positions would certainly be reversed, that they would be
imprisoned, and their bondswomen be made free.

Having heard in Aden from conversations with a missionary who had
visited Tajourah that some ruins existed near that town, which could
only be referred to the labours of some highly civilized people in a
condition far superior to the present state of the inhabitants, I was
particular in my inquiries concerning the traditional history of the
place. The Sultaun, who appeared to be one of the oldest men, informed
me that in his younger days stone walls of some extent, but completely
in ruins, were to be seen on the road to the well, and offered to
accompany Mr. Cruttenden and myself to point out their situation. Their
site was about half way between the town and the well. All traces of
them above ground had long since disappeared; but by raking over the
spot with the butt-end of a spear very evident marks of the foundations
of some extensive buildings were to be seen, but still were too
indistinct to enable us to form any idea as to their character. A few
yards distant from them we found, nearly perfect, a regular formed
millstone of extraordinary dimensions, made of a black coarse volcanic
rock, and weighing at least 600 pounds; the Sultaun could give us no
other account of its origin than that it had been brought down from the
hills by the rain. Respecting the stone houses, foundations of which we
had been examining, he told us that he had been informed by his father,
that the Turks had erected them when they had possession of the country.

It is necessary, however, to observe, that there are no remains of
ancient buildings, either in this country or that of the Soumaulee,
concerning which the natives will not tell the same tale, that they were
towns once occupied by the Turks. I was often told during my journey
through the Adal country of ruined houses built of stone and lime, being
in the neighbourhood, and my informants invariably added that they had
formerly belonged to the Turks; sometimes, as if correcting themselves,
explaining that they meant the Feringees, for that the old possessors
had not been Mahomedans but Christians.

Proceeding to the well, we found the mouth of it surrounded with a low
fence of stones, about two feet high. The shaft was about fifteen or
sixteen feet deep to the surface of the water, which is always plentiful
and sweet. At some little distance, their extremities placed in the
earth, were six upright halves of the same kind of mill-stone we had
just before seen; all of which, according to the statements of the
numerous slave-girls who were filling their water-skins, had been
brought from some place among the hills by the torrents in the wet
season, so far according with the Sultaun’s story, and perhaps
originating from the same sources of information.

The questions that naturally arise are, to what people must we attribute
these works of art, so superior to the capabilities of the present
inhabitants of Tajourah, are even these rude mill-stones, and for what
purpose of manufacture could they have been originally designed. The
climate of the country in which we find them precludes the idea of their
being used for the grinding of wheat; nor would the jowaree, I think, be
used as food by people so advanced in civilization as these stones
indicate. I am quite at a loss to account for their presence, for no
production of this country, as it now exists, could require their
employment, and the difficulty can only be surmounted by supposing them
to have been the product of a period anterior to the volcanic era which
has made the whole of this country a desert. Some examination of the
country to the north and east of Tajourah may, perhaps, at a future day
prove the existence of extensive ruins in the neighbourhood; and this I
feel more inclined to believe from the name of Tajourah itself, which
appears to me to signify the dependent village of the black population,
of some once great and flourishing city.

The time was now approaching for my departure. The Arab blacksmith had
been two or three days at work making me a crooked dagger to be carried
with three small pistols in my belt, and which enabled me to present a
very warlike front. The rumours of assassinations and Bedouin attacks,
made me wish to be ready in cases of extremity. I am fully convinced
that the greatest danger in travelling among savage and lawless tribes
is fancied security, and to be really safe, the traveller must be always
prepared to meet their attacks. He will find his best protection to be a
constant suspicion of every man’s intentions until fully convinced of
his peaceable character, or that he is quite aware of the ability to
reward him for his protection and friendship, or to punish him for any
attempts upon life or property.

Two saddle-bags of cowskin dressed with the hair on, were made also by
the blacksmith; they had no pretensions to elegance, certainly, but as
they were capacious enough for me to stow in them all the wardrobe I had
selected for the journey, and also several pounds of biscuit, and a
small cheese, I did not mind their not being of a make that would have
commanded the entire approbation of a bagsman accustomed to travel only
on English roads. A mule was also purchased for my use, a good old
_Shabah_, as my Dankalli servant Allee used to delight in calling her.
She was a remarkably staid steady-going animal of a sober grey colour,
and had been so accustomed to travel up and down the road we were going,
that I really believe she could have taken me to Shoa without a guide,
and had become so used to the regular slow two miles an hour pace of the
camels, that she never could be induced to go on any faster, and always
seemed most happy when she was at the very end of the line walking close
under the tail of the last camel.

Mr. Cruttenden and myself were hard at work with our needles for two
days previous to the start, he kindly undertaking to manufacture a
skin-case for my watch, pocket-compass, and ammunition; whilst I
attempted to vie with him in his workmanship by stitching together two
strips of ox-hide into a belt, which, for want of the necessary buckles,
was made to button in front. To this the sheath of my Adal knife, or
dagger, was secured, as also a little bag for caps and bullets. When
finished, the Sultaun very graciously pronounced the belt to be a very
creditable effort of genius, with which encomium I felt highly
flattered.

_March 27th, the last day in Tajourah._—The night before, all the boxes
were taken to the open place beyond the little stone mosque in the rear
of the Sultaun’s house, preparatory for the grand start to our first
halt this day, which I was positively informed would be at the distance
of at least seven miles. It was not until late in the afternoon, that I
was called to witness the camels loaded for the first time, and to count
them, as they one by one proceeded on their march. Mr. Cruttenden was
present to take farewell; and a whole circle of the principal hukells of
the town, who here held their last calahm, to place me particularly
under the care of Ohmed Mahomed, the brother of Cassim and Mahomed, or
as he was commonly called Ebin Izaak, the son of Izaak, upon whom
jointly now devolved the charge of the Kafilah and myself. Cassim, one
of the chief men of the town, and Ibrahim Shaitan, “the devil,” (a very
appropriate name,) had agreed to accompany us for three days, and see us
fairly started on our journey.

The camels having already got out of sight, the Fahtah was recited by
all present, and a general leave-taking followed. I shook hands with Mr.
Cruttenden, and after sincerely thanking him for his kindness and the
trouble he had taken in providing everything necessary for my journey,
mounted my mule, and went on my way rejoicing at having at last turned
my back upon Tajourah, a town I was most heartily tired of.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                               CHAPTER V.


Journey to Ambabboo, distance three miles, general direction south-west,
  along the sea-shore.—Halt for the night.—Journey to Dulhull, distance
  seven miles, general direction nearly south-west.—Staying at Dulhull.


WE first passed a small stream which a shower among the hills during the
preceding night had produced, and which was now running directly into
the sea: then the well, with the usual crowd of laughing water-bearers,
who in groups were commenting upon the Feringee Kafilah, and as I passed
saluted me with an abundance of salaams (peace). Cassim was the only one
of the group of five natives that accompanied me who was mounted, and he
was unarmed, except with the common dagger of his countrymen. The
remainder, excepting Ibrahim Shaitan, who had made himself particularly
disagreeable in Tajourah, were strangers to me. I was given to
understand they formed a part of the escort of ten men who were engaged
to accompany me on the journey. They were certainly the most cut-throat
looking individuals I had ever seen; their suspicious glances, low
whispers, and rumoured characters, for they were some Bedouins of the
interior, made me feel rather uncomfortable at first, and I almost felt
inclined to get off my mule, and go to prayers with Cassim, when I saw
him dismount as we rode along the beach and commence his ablutions for
that purpose. As, however, he made no signal for me to halt, I proceeded
quietly along with the rest of the party till we passed a broad current,
some feet wide, of small hermit crabs, that were marching along, at a
great pace, from the sea, towards the north, in which direction, it must
be observed, Mecca lay. I pulled up my mule to observe what could
possibly be the reason of such an array passing along, and my
wild-looking friends coming up, Ibrahim, whose knowledge of Arabic
rivalled mine, looked in my face inquiringly, and pointing to the crabs,
remarked, “fennah rah?” (where go) to which I replied in equally good
Arabic, “hadge” (pilgrimage), at which he raised a loud laugh, and
telling his friends in their language, they seemed to enjoy the joke
exceedingly. After this incident I got a little more confidence, and was
just going to ask Ibrahim some question relative to the time we should
be on the journey, when a sudden turn brought us to a little savannah,
surrounded with date and mimosa trees, whilst beyond, rising high above
the bright green foliage, was a pretty regular amphitheatre of high
conical hills. As we had been scarcely an hour reaching this place, and
I saw by the boxes being piled up that a halt was intended, I was rather
astonished at finding our first day’s march so very short, and Cassim
riding up, I put the question to him if it were intended to start again
in the night, as is frequently the case with Kafilahs to avoid the heat
of the day. Cassim, however, told me that we should not start again
until the next morning very early, a number of camels and men not having
joined who intended to accompany us to Abasha. My new servant Zaido, a
slave of Ohmed Mahomed, was here introduced to me. He had been engaged
to attend me on the road for twenty dollars, to be paid on our arrival
in Shoa. He was a tall good-natured sort of a fellow, but the greatest
coward I ever met among these brave people, and the very reverse in this
respect to his much shorter fellow-slave, Allee Ohmed, who also had been
ordered by his master to look after my mule, and who was ever ready to
perform other services for me in the expectation of a few gilt buttons,
and a boxeish, or present, at parting. Neither of them was much more
than twenty years old, but Allee had proved himself a man of some
courage in a battle with the Issah Soumaulee, in which he had killed his
opponent.

Immediately on arriving at the halting-place, Allee took my mule, and
Zaido brought me my carpet, with my Scotch plaid and Arab cloak, which
were rolled up in it, and arranged my bed for the night in an open part
of the savannah, placing my saddle under my head to serve for a pillow.
Cassim took up his position on one side of me, and Ibrahim on the other
side of Cassim, whilst during the night Alee and Zaido lay, one at my
feet, and the other at my head, to guard against any attempt to
assassinate me during the night, it being known that many of the Debenee
tribe had declared that no white man should pass again through their
country, owing to a dispute about the division of five or six thousand
dollars they asserted the Sultaun had received from the English, in
payment for the purchase of some small islands in the Bay of Tajourah.
The murder of three of Capt. Harris’s European escort, eight or nine
days’ journey inland, was a painful evidence of the vindictive spirit
thus excited. From the Debenee I was afterwards told I had more to fear
than from any other tribe I should have to pass through.

During the night, I received a note from Mr. Cruttenden, which I read
and answered by the light of the moon. A slight shower of rain gave
promise of an abundant supply of water during our journey, and was
hailed by all as a very propitious omen.

_March 28th._—Up and off two hours before sunrise. I would not wait for
my mule, but walked on with Cassim and Ibrahim whilst the camels were
being loaded. Our march lay along the sands, where, for a short time, I
sat under the shade of some date-palms, whilst my companions bathed and
performed their first prayers for the day. I saw an abundance of game,
chiefly guinea-fowl, and the small antelope mentioned by Salt, a
graceful little thing, scarcely twelve inches high, of a greyish
fawn-colour, with beautifully formed head and large prominent black
eyes. My double-barrelled carabine being loaded with ball, I would not
shoot at them, fearing that I might miss, and I could not well afford to
lose my character as a marksman among the people I was now living with,
who consider every white man to be naturally a good shot.

Prayers being over, we again started, and soon passed a small native
village of about eight houses, called Ambabboo, where we met some
Bedouins with two or three camels who had come with the intention of
joining our Kafilah. A little girl here brought me some milk in one of
their curiously constructed baskets, and her brother, dragging along a
young kid, wanted me to accept it. Cassim, who suspected the real
meaning of all this generosity, objected to the kid on the plea of
inconvenience. I, however, made them both happy by giving them a few
beads and a couple of needles.

Leaving the coast, we entered a wood of low mimosa-trees, the thorny
boughs of which I was obliged to be continually throwing from before my
face. We soon came to a fordable part of a small creek communicating
with the sea, and which I then found had caused the detour. The water
where we passed was about two feet deep, and after crossing we reached
the sea-shore again in a short time, and travelled along the sands until
we came to an open bare spot, over which I could see, by the drift wood
and large rolled stones, that during the wet season a torrent must rush
into the sea. Here we were to halt for the rest of the day. A large
Kafilah of natives going to Tajourah had spent the night in the same
place, and were just leaving as our small party of pedestrians arrived,
the time being the dawn of day, and we having been two hours on the
march.

The name of this halting-place was Dulhull. I sat down on a large stone,
at a short turn in the otherwise nearly direct line of the sea-shore
from east to west, which admitted of a fine view of the Bay of Tajourah
and the distant sea. The sun, “from ocean rising,” quickly dissolved the
last shades of night, and one of the most lovely scenes my eyes ever
beheld extended before me. All the azure and golden tinting of that
imaginative painter, Turner, was realized, and I silently acknowledged
the injustice of my premature judgment, in considering his pictures very
pleasing, but most unnatural. The gorgeous apparel of the cloud-robed
sun, the silvery play of the nearly calm reflecting surface of the sea;
the blue rocks of the opposite Soumaulee shore; the palm-tree fringe of
the waving line of coast, along which I had just been travelling; the
distant view of Tajourah, and the quiet of its little merchant fleet,
aided in producing an effect of enjoyment in my mind, that perhaps owed
some portion of its charm to the feeling of having at last entered upon
the long wished-for life of novel and wild adventure which, from a boy,
I had so ardently desired. Behind me rose a succession of bare rugged
hills, gradually increasing in height till at the peak of Jibel Goodee,
about six miles off, they attained an elevation of 6,000 feet, all
evidently of volcanic origin, save the little low heaps of recent
sandstone close to the shores of the bay which had been upheaved,
probably at the same period with the more imposing rocks beyond them.

One of these hills of stratified sandstone had been impregnated with the
vapour of a cupras sublimation, until it had assumed a light green
colour; and upon the strength of about five per cent. of copper, some
travellers had represented that it was a _Jibel Narse_, or hill of
copper. Many of the natives were firmly impressed with an idea that it
was for the promise thus held out of an abundant supply of this metal,
that had induced the English to attempt the purchase of Tajourah and the
neighbouring country from the Sultaun Mahomed. I may here observe, that
a purchase had been effected between this chief and the Indian
Government of the two islands; one at the entrance of the bay, and
another much smaller, lying in the little channel leading into Goobatul
Khhrab, and for which, I believe, the Sultan received some five or six
thousand dollars.

I was now joined by some of our Kafilah, which had in the meantime come
up and commenced unlading. Zaido placed two mats under the shade of some
closely-growing mimosa-trees, and one or two of the escort, who seemed
willing to patronize me for the sake of the few buttons or needles I
could bestow upon them, brought their mats and laid them down all around
me. A rude sense of politeness seemed to prevent their pressing
inconveniently near me; but I suspected that it was merely the hollow
affectation of courtesy by the most cold-blooded assassins I ever met or
ever read of. By their own showing, not one of them that wore a small
tuft of hair upon the boss of his shield but had killed and murdered ten
or twelve individuals, which, if only understood as two or three, the
men surrounding me must have caused the death of at least a score of
their fellow-beings; and the delight and evident zest with which they
spoke of or listened to the several struggles in which they had been
engaged, told the fierce and cruel character of these demons in human
shape. “Neither the hospitality nor the high sense of honour that
characterizes the savage of America or of the Oceanic Islands, is to be
found among the Dankalli tribes. Murder is equally productive of renown
as is the most honourable fight; and the same triumphant badges are worn
by the valiant soldier and the cowardly assassin. The companion of the
day and the sharer of your food will, under cover of night, strike
without remorse his knife into your throat; and of all the savage people
that inhabit this benighted land of Africa, the Dankalli are allowed by
all to be the most treacherous and cruel.” This was the character I had
received of my present companions; and it was necessary therefore that I
should be careful to give them no excuse for attempting my life, acting
as courteously as possible, distributing needles and bits of paper,
loading and firing my pistols repeatedly for their amusement during the
day. Having smashed, on one occasion, an earthen coffee-pot that the
owner had challenged me to fire at, they were quite satisfied that I
could as easily demolish an elephant with one of the little
insignificant looking things that they saw I always wore at my waist,
and this feeling I did not endeavour to dissipate, as I saw it had a
very good effect upon the bearing of these men towards me. An accident
that happened also, by which one of them was nearly shot, made them not
over anxious to trust themselves too near to me, or my pistols, and
turned out to be a fortunate circumstance, by preventing them from
closing and crowding around me.

As evening drew on, Zaido, who had prepared me a breakfast in the
morning of boiled rice and dates, now cooked me some kid’s flesh, a
portion of another present I had received in the course of the day from
some Bedouin shepherds who were tending their flocks of sheep and goats
in the neighbourhood, and who had sent it in by some of their children.
The men did not appear themselves, for among our Kafilah were some
individuals of a tribe with whom this Bedouin family had a blood feud.
During the whole day I observed several of them assembled on a spur of
Jibel Goodee, awaiting the result of our arrival with spear and shield
in hand, as if they expected an attack. After supper I directed Allee
and Zaido to make a little fort of boxes, as I saw I had nothing to
trust to but the greatest precaution on my part. I was only afraid of
night attacks, for during the day I felt pretty well assured that I
should be quite free from any molestation, but even this partial idea of
security led me subsequently into considerable danger; and, as I hope my
experience may be of service to future travellers, my errors shall be
duly paraded with the same fairness as those incidents I shall no doubt
speak of, from which I expect any credit may arise.

The roof of my box-fort or hut was made by placing the long camel
saddle-sticks across from side to side, over which I threw my carpet,
and on this piled camel saddles, mats, and everything calculated to
awaken me by making a noise in case of any one attempting to uncover my
retreat. A good palanquin with locks on the doors would not be a bad
carriage for such a country as Adal. The dilemma would be to procure
bearers, for I do not think the native Dankalli could by any means be
induced to the exercise of such a long-continued labour as the patient
dauk carriers upon the roads of India.

Neither Ohmed Mahomed nor Ebin Izaak was to be seen to-day, and I found
that they had returned during the past night to Tajourah, to spend
another last day with their families, leaving Cassim in charge of the
Kafilah. He sometimes walked up to the trees under which I lay during
the day, to see that everything was right with me. A Bedouin, who had
kept close to me the entire day, had placed himself at the entrance of
my hut when I retired; and Zaido told me he was one of the escort who
had sworn to Izaak not to let me go out of his sight, upon the promise
of receiving a cloth from his son in Abasha. As he was a very
superior-looking man, at least forty years of age, very quiet, and less
importunate for trifles than the rest of his countrymen, I thanked him,
as well as I could, for his attention, and gave him a cotton
handkerchief.

After looking suspiciously to the right and left, creeping a little way
into my hut he secured the gift in a dirty rag to the handle of his
shield, which he hung up in my hut to be taken care of, by signs
intimating that it would rain, and also that he was my very good friend,
insisting at the same time, that I should write his name, Garahmee, down
in my note-book. He then turned away to get some boiled rice with Zaido
and Allee, whilst I turned in upon my mat, covered myself with my plaid
and Arab cloak, and composed myself to sleep.

_March 29._—I found we should not leave Dulhull to-day; neither Ohmed
Mahomed, nor Ebin Izaak, having yet arrived, Garahmee and a new Bedouin
friend, Moosa Gra, proposed to accompany me if I chose to bathe in the
sea, but as it was in front of and in sight of the Kafilah, I told them
I did not require their attendance. After bathing I took my yesterday
morning’s position upon the stone on the sea-shore, and again looked
with pleasure upon the lovely picture before me. While still enjoying
the scene, a sudden flash from the beach in front of Tajourah followed
in a few minutes by a booming report, told the departure of Mr.
Cruttenden for Berberah, and scarcely had his little vessel returned the
salute of the town, and raised her long lateen sail, than she flew as if
impatient from the land, and at our distance seemed not unlike a large
white bird scudding over the surface of the sea.

Mr. Cruttenden having left Tajourah, Cassim and Ibrahim, who had been, I
could see, anxiously awaiting the report, thought they could go back to
their homes without further trouble. Their protestations of anxiety for
my safety, and desire to see me well started on my journey, having been
sheer humbug, but by which of course they had secured proportionate
rewards. I had scarcely recovered from the fit of musing, the
circumstance of my having witnessed the departure of Mr. Cruttenden had
occasioned, when these worthies came up to announce their own intention
of immediately returning to Tajourah. Ibrahim, who had a raw kidney in
his hand, offered part of it to me with the most innocent politeness,
but which I having with a graceful bow declined, he handed to Cassim,
who made but two mouthfuls of it. They amused themselves with my evident
surprise at their indulging in such a delicacy as they undoubtedly
considered it; and having put me, as they thought, into a good humour
with them, proposed their return. I made no observation in reply, for I
was only too glad to get Ibrahim away, as he very evidently disliked me,
and all that were of my colour. I had nearly quarrelled with him the
evening before, through resisting his attempts to cut the leaves out of
a copy of Mr. M‘Queen’s survey of Africa, in an Appendix of which was
contained an extract of the route through this country, from the
journals of Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf, and which I had been comparing
with the accounts I was receiving of the road from the natives who
surrounded me. Upon learning that the account was that of the
missionaries, Ibrahim, for some reason or other, drew his knife, and
stated his intention of cutting the book up, but upon my putting it
immediately into my saddle-bag, with a very significant expression, the
by-standers took Ibrahim away. To all appearance, the circumstance was
soon forgotten, for he appeared in a short time afterwards, and asked me
to give him some lucifer matches, with which request I immediately
complied, and in this manner established peace again between us.

On the present occasion Cassim began the conversation by saying, how
anxious he was for the Kafilah to proceed, which was false; as Zaido had
told me but a short time before that we were waiting for some friends of
Cassim himself, who were going to join our Kafilah with a few camels,
which they intended to load with salt for the Shoan market at the Bahr
Assal, and that they would not be ready till the next day. Cassim,
however, went on to state, that he was exceedingly angry with his
brother, Ohmed Mahomed, for detaining us, and that it was his intention
to go back to Tajourah to hasten him on to rejoin the Kafilah; and
added, that Ibrahim would also accompany him for mutual protection on
the road. He concluded, by representing that the smallest offering would
be gladly accepted, but hinted his expectation of a considerable boxeish
for his attendance so far, and proportionate to the very important
position he held among the Tajourah people, which, he said, would be
considerably diminished, if what I should give him were not what his
admirers might expect. As I was not in a humour to understand all this,
my little knowledge of Arabic wonderfully diminished, and it was absurd
to see the grave personage Cassim, in consequence, throwing his hands
and arms about, strutting and looking pompous, and then most benign, to
convey to my obtuse understanding the impression most favourable for his
wishes. Ibrahim stood very quietly by, cleaning his extremely white
teeth with the ever accompanying stick of a singular kind of tree called
Woomen, growing in the neighbourhood of Dulhull. He, however, made no
observation until Cassim had finished, and had seen him receive four
dollars, then his turn came.

Ibrahim was a little spare man, but commenced with saying, that he was
quite as good as Cassim, that he was my friend, and, besides, was going
to introduce me to another friend of his who would accompany me all the
way, and sooner die than see me injured. This friend’s name he made me
write down in my book with a particular note, that I should not forget
to give him also a boxeish on our arrival in Abasha. As for himself, he
added, he was convinced I should do him justice. To my sense of what was
due to his numerous excellences, therefore, and to the goodness of
Allah, he left all consideration of what bounty I intended to bestow
upon him.

I had made up my mind to divide ten dollars between them at Segallo, the
halting-place where it was originally intended they should leave me, but
as that was at some distance, I thought they should get nothing by the
little deceit they had practised in keeping me at Dulhull until Mr.
Cruttenden had sailed, and then saving themselves any farther trouble,
by returning immediately to Tajourah. As has been observed, I gave
Cassim only four, and to Ibrahim I presented three dollars, observing to
the latter, that I had given him more than the extra dollar Cassim had
received, in beads, needles, buttons, and matches; for of all the
natives, Bedouin, or townspeople, Ibrahim was the most bothering, and
greedy in begging everything he could set his eyes upon. When he could
obtain nothing else, he asked for medicine, and if I had taken him at
his word, and done him full justice, I think I could not have done less
than have seized this opportunity of poisoning him, and so have sent him
to that place from whence he derived his very unamiable “_nom de
guerre_,” among his own countrymen, of “Shaitan.”

Our grief at parting, not being of that excessive kind that would
interfere with any opportunities I had of making observations on the
people I was amongst, as soon as they were gone I had my mat spread
again under the trees, and was soon surrounded by others, who were
retreating from the hot sun to the same friendly shelter.

Some women also came down from among the hills with small skins of
clotted milk, which they gladly exchanged for needles. The younger ones
are very beautiful girls, but of exceedingly slender form, reminding me
strongly of the appearance of the Indian girls in Calcutta, and
strikingly different in figure from the female slaves brought down from
Abyssinia. These latter are particularly plump, with roundly formed and
fleshy limbs, and of rather short stature, whilst the Adal women are
thin, muscular, and tall. The latter, too, were considerably more
vivacious and active, and the characters of their features were as
decidedly different as the chief points of their figure. I have before
observed, that the genuine Dankalli belongs to the Circassian variety;
but I shall not stay here to form farther comparisons with the
Abyssinians, but will wait till I arrive in that country, and can bring
my subjects properly before the reader.

The older women were repulsive looking witches with dependent breasts,
like old black butter skins, lying empty and flat upon the chest. This
disgusting appearance is produced by the constant pressure of the band
placed over the shoulders, and across the breast, and which secures
whatever burden the woman is carrying behind her. They invariably have
something stowed away in this manner, either a child, a bundle of split
doom leaves for plaiting, an odd bundle of salt, or a large skin full of
milk. It is generally suspended from the chest upon the loins, and the
constant pressure, in the course of time has the effect of completely
obliterating the glandular portion of the breasts, leaving only two long
double flaps of black skin, to tell where once the fountains of life had
been. They had a constant habit of tapping the mouth with the tips of
their fingers to express astonishment, and pressing both hands to the
lower part of the face was the very modest manner in which they walked
off their nearly naked bodies, when we came suddenly up to a party of
them, for it was seldom they volunteered to stay in my neighbourhood
unless called upon to do so. A white skin evidently had no charms for
them, and I could only smile at their prejudice and bad taste. The same
kind of feeling makes many a negro happy in London, who, if the truth
were known, looks with an eye of pity or contempt upon the pale faces
that turn in disgust from him.

Mothers, towards evening, came bringing their diseased children into
camp, and when I could be of service, it was some pleasure to assist
them with what little medicine I possessed; but to some who were
irrecoverable, I only suggested such dietary treatment I considered
might be palliative, for I would not risk the danger of having their
death laid to my charge, as it would have been had I administered any
drug, or held out any hopes of recovery. One or two blind people went
away very much disappointed at my not being able to restore them their
sight.

My usual evening meal of rice and kid-flesh being duly prepared, I
returned into my hut, drew out in secret my pewter spoon, the only
remaining one of three, and made a hearty supper. All illness having
apparently left me, appetite and a buoyancy of spirit I had long been a
stranger to, had returned, enabling me fully to enjoy all the pleasures,
if there can be any imagined, of the life I was now leading.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                              CHAPTER VI.


Staying at Dulhull.—March 31st, Journey to Segallo, distance one and
  a-half miles, general direction S.S.W.—Halt for the night.—Journey to
  Daddahue, distance ten miles, general direction W.S.W.—Attack of the
  Bursane subdivision of the Ad’alee tribe.—Halt for the night.


_March 30th._—During the night, Ohmed Mahomed made his appearance, and
at day-break his loud voice, calling to load the camels, awakened me
with a start. Zaido, with a small kid-skin filled with very dirty water,
poured a little into my hands, which I then threw over my face, wiped it
dry with my silk handkerchief (my napkin having been stolen the night
before), and thus finished my hasty toilet. After having troubled myself
to saddle my own mule, I found that the camels were being unloaded
again, and on inquiry, learned that there was a division in the camp.
One party wishing to remain for some more camels to join us, and the
other desirous of starting without any delay. It was at length agreed
that the camels going to take up salt at Bahr Assal should go on to that
place one day in advance of the Kafilah I belonged to, so as to give
them time to load. We were to follow the next morning, to enable the
camels to come up, belonging to some parties who had sent a messenger
from Tajourah to say they would join us in the course of the day. To
this course no reasonable objection could be raised, as it was the
interest of the Ras, or head of the Kafilah, and of every camel-owner
that composed it, to get as great a number of people together as
possible to resist any extortion, or repel any attack that might be made
by the different tribes we should meet with on the road. Ohmed Mahomed,
therefore, consented to this arrangement, and we were detained at
Dulhull another day in consequence. I noticed after Ohmed Mahomed’s
arrival in camp, that great, and I thought very unnecessary, care was
taken to guard me from any attack at night. My place being more securely
shut in, and Ohmed Mahomed and his servants taking care to lie at the
entrance, and around it. Ohmed had his reason for this, and I should not
have slept very comfortably had I been then fully aware of the threats
held out by the Debenee against any unfortunate Engreez travelling
through their country, and of which I was only subsequently informed.

Our Kafilah during this day was increased by twenty-four camels, which
made the total number, with the few that had gone on to the Bahr Assal,
eighty-four, and we could muster altogether about forty fighting men; we
had besides a few women and boys in company. Five Bedouins from the Hy
Soumaulee tribe, who had been transacting some business in Tajourah,
also accompanied us, and offered for five dollars each to be my personal
guard on the road, and the rumours of intended attacks, and the evident
anticipation of such by Ohmed Mahomed, made me agree to the proposal.
Garahmee, Moosa Gra, Adam Burrah, Moomen, and Omah Suis were accordingly
enlisted into my service.

It must be observed, that in the first instance in Tajourah, these men
had been passed off to Mr. Cruttenden as being part of the escort of ten
men which had been agreed upon should be provided, and for which Mr.
Cruttenden had paid twenty-five dollars per man to Izaak and Cassim. I
now learnt that besides the owners of the camels themselves, none had
been so engaged to defend the property of the Mission, and that these
Bedouins belonged to us no farther than I chose to engage them, and
feeling the necessity of the case, I did not hesitate in coming to a
conclusion upon the subject, protesting at the same time against the
deception practised upon Mr. Cruttenden.

Subsequent events proved how greatly I was obliged to these men and
their tribe for the protection they afforded me, and without their
assistance I feel assured I could never have delivered the stores safe
in Shoa, or have brought also along with me a quantity of other property
belonging to the Mission that I found on the road, and which had been
abandoned by the officers of the preceding division. Their fidelity to
our engagement was also remarkable, considering the reported bad
character of this people, which I must say was confirmed by my own
observation; but as by the terms of our engagement they were to receive
no money until our arrival in Abyssinia, it was their interest, of
course, to be faithful to their charge, for in case of any accident
preventing me or the stores reaching our destination, it was understood
they were not to receive their pay.

I was a witness to-day of the barbarous manner in which the Dankalli
brand the camel. It seems two different marks are required, both of
which are made with a red-hot iron. One intimates the tribe of the
owner, the other his private mark. Two camels had been purchased by
another Ibrahim, a cousin of Ebin Izaak, a young quiet-looking fellow,
and less violent in his manner than is usual among his countrymen; he,
however, did not practise the less forbearance towards his new purchase,
but proceeded at once to stamp them as his property. The fore legs of
one of the camels being first secured by a strong leathern thong;
another was afterwards fastened around the hind ones in a similar
manner. A rope attached to the former was then made to run through the
loop of the latter, and this being pulled by three or four men the feet
were all drawn together, and the consequence was that the poor animal
fell with tremendous force to the ground, uttering the most horrible
cries. A piece of iron about half an inch thick, and some two feet long,
being heated red-hot was then applied to the shoulder, nearly the whole
length, and three successive marks were thus inflicted. The iron being
heated afresh each time, remained until it was quite cold upon the skin,
which curled up in a most sickening manner as the rude instrument was
taken off. Three similar marks were also made upon the rump, after which
the animal was liberated, and allowed to get up. I was glad there were
only these two to be operated upon, for I never heard such bellowing
shrieks that disturbed the camp during the operation, such only as
camels can produce when suffering bodily pain.

A goat being killed to-day for my use, and all the meat not being
required, it was cut into long strips, about an inch in thickness, and
hung up in the sun to dry, being festooned about the sides of my hut,
from the projecting ends of the saddle-staves, which assisted in forming
the roof. Zaido set me to watch, that no hungry kite out of the number
which were circling above us should pounce upon, and carry the meat
away. I, however, amused myself more with their impudent stoops, and
Zaido, on his return from watering his camels, found the goat’s flesh
rapidly disappearing, more to the satisfaction of the birds than his
own. What remained, however, being sufficiently dry, he hastily put into
a large skin bag, which he tied up ready for loading on the morrow, our
start being announced by public criers to take place next morning.

_March 31st._—Zaido and Allee being busy loading the camels, I started
with Ohmed Mahomed, and my body-guard on foot, leaving my mule to
follow. Our road lay still along the sea-shore, the sand having become
more shingly than before, and mixed with great quantities of broken
shells, and rolled pieces of red and madrapore coral. I took the
opportunity of bathing while the party I was with performed their
ablutions, and repeated the morning prayers.

This was a very short march, the halting-place, Segallo, not being more
than half an hour, or one and a-half miles from Dulhull. Ohmed Mahomed
endeavoured to allay my disappointment by saying we should start again
at night; but of course I did not believe him. I remained in my hut,
which was made as usual, all day, not feeling very well; in the evening,
however, I strolled from the low jungle that here skirts the sea, and in
which our camp was made, to the beach, where I amused myself observing
some sea-gulls that exhibited no little sagacity in the manner in which
they obtained their food. All along the Bay of Tajourah the small hermit
crab abounds, and formed, I should suppose, from what I saw, the
principal prey of these birds. It would be a difficult thing to get at
this kind of Crustacea, with all the means that seagulls can command;
but instinct has taught them to have recourse to a method of unshelling
the crabs that certainly I should not have thought of. Seizing the one
they intend to operate upon, they fly up to the height of ten or twelve
feet, and letting it drop it naturally falls on the heaviest, or topside
of the shell. Before the little animal can recover itself, the gull has
caught it again, and flying up with it the same height as before, he
lets it drop a second time, and so he continues till the repeated falls
have fractured the shell, and he gets at the animal without further
trouble. It takes ten or twelve of these short flights to accomplish the
object, but it never fails; and as the birds are certainly patterns of
perseverance in their pursuit, they get, no doubt, a good living in this
very singular manner. Besides this instance of their sagacity, I have
seen gulls over and over again defeat the attempts of the hawk to pounce
upon them, by making a very successful but very unusual flight for them,
which was to vie with the hawk himself in the elevation he was obliged
to take for the success of his swoop. In such cases they seek not to
shun the butcher of their kind, but following him in each gyration he
makes, afford him no opportunity of attack, and soon tire him out. I was
called away from my musing occupation by Moosa, who came with a great
deal of mystery to inform me of something that he was not quite able to
tell me, but on returning with him to the camp, I found two boxes had
been broken, during the short march from Dulhull, by falling from the
back of the camel. I was requested to put them to rights, as driving
nails was what the Dankalli did not understand. My carpentering amused
them very much; and the job being settled to their satisfaction, I
adjourned to my hut and turned in for the night.

_April 1st._—We were up very early this morning, at least one hour
before sunrise, and all started together for Daddahue, or Wadalissan,
two different names that were given me for the next halt. I was desired
to keep with the Kafilah, for fear of our being attacked, and also
informed that it would be near mid-day before we should arrive at the
encamping ground.

Our first hour’s march lay along the sea-shore, which was of the same
character as yesterday, but I observed great quantities of sponge washed
high upon the beach, and picked up some very good specimens. Pebbles of
a beautiful opaline chalcedony were very common, and with the coral and
rich pearly shells of some large bivalve, would have been sufficient
foundation for an imaginative fancy to have here described a very bright
pavement of fairy land.

Leaving the sea-coast, we entered a narrow gully, or dry bed of a
stream, overhung by a thick jungle of different kinds of shrubs and
bushes. The road thus naturally formed, was most wretched to travel
upon, being strewed with blocks of black lava, of all shapes and sizes.
We continued along its serpentine channel for nearly two hours; and it
would have been useless to have endeavoured to find another road, for
the surface of the adjoining country on either side was in a much worse
condition; besides, the thick thorny bushes presented insurmountable
obstacles in every direction save the watercourses we followed. We at
length arrived at a gorge, or narrow pass, where it appeared as if the
collected waters of some large reservoir had at a former period broken
through a wall of lava, and thus escaped to the neighbouring sea,
spreading over the intervening ground the debris of its forced passage.
This remarkable looking spot was called Galla Lafue, from a tree of a
very singular character, which abounds in this neighbourhood. It is
about six feet high, its leaves thick, smooth, and fleshy, covered with
a silvery down on the underside, and of a pale green above. It bore a
large purple and white flower, the bark was of a light grey colour, and
abounded with a white acid juice. That it was employed in any manner
amongst the Dankalli for medicine, I could not learn. It only grows in
the beds of temporary streams. I met with it first at Dulhull, on the
sea-shore, and have seen it also in more elevated situations in
Abyssinia.

The pass of Galla Lafue is not more than three hundred yards long, and
winds between high perpendicular and flat-topped rocks of black lava.
Its greatest width did not extend thirty yards. Gnawed bones were strewn
about, on several parts, and on looking up I saw the low cave of a wild
beast, whose traces were too recent to leave any doubt of it having only
retired upon our approach. We soon emerged from this narrow ravine, and
then passed along some broken ground of irregular heaps of boulders and
stones, that reminded me of the bottom of some former lake, situated in
a country where the fierce rush of water had only allowed the heavier
debris of the surrounding rocks to accumulate; and of this character, I
should imagine, was the bursting torrent that at last had made its
escape through the pass of Galla Lafue into the sea.

The Kafilah did not proceed in the direction of the dry stony bed, but
turning to the left hand, ascended the sloping banks, which at this
point assumed a less precipitous character than immediately in the pass.

Some of the camel-drivers and Bedouins went, however, to pools of water
in the neighbourhood, and filled their affaleetahs, small neatly-made
kid-skin bags, one of which it is necessary every traveller should be
provided with, and which, when not in use, is rolled closely up and
carried, hanging from the handle of the shield. Mine hung from my
saddle-bow, and I generally took care to have it filled before we
started in the morning. To-day, however, as I walked with a crowd of the
natives, I did not wait for my lagging mule, but refreshed myself, when
thirsty, at the little cup-like depressions in the cellular blocks of
lava that had been filled by a shower of rain the preceding night, but
which had not extended to our camp at Seggallo. We crossed an extensive
plain of loose volcanic stones, where we marched as if we were passing
upon stepping-stones over some brook in England, and as this uneasy kind
of walking was compulsory for some hours, it became very tiresome, and I
felt a great relief when we came to a district which did afford a little
more opportunity for some stunted and straggling mimosa-trees to bloom,
but with a very melancholy dirty green verdure. Our path was here
greatly improved, but just as I was congratulating myself upon the
change, and thinking I should be able to continue walking another hour
or two, we came upon the Kafilah, which had started the day before us
from Dulhull, and to whose farther advance some obstacle had arisen.
This induced Ohmed Mahomed, our Ras, to halt here also, and in the
course of the day I was enabled to learn the cause of our detention,
which had surprised me; for, but a short time before we halted, Ohmed
had told me, with evident sincerity, that he intended us to proceed for
two more hours.

The camels being unloaded, my hut was built as usual, into which I
retired with some pleasure, the day having been exceedingly hot, and the
long fatiguing march of at least five hours, had completely wearied me.
I slept for two or three hours, when Ohmed Mahomed came and awakened me,
to ask me to load my guns and pistols, as the Bedouins were collecting
on the opposite height to oppose our farther progress. I always kept my
carbine, and three waist-pistols in readiness for such anticipated
occasions, but on this intimation I soon charged, in addition, a
fowling-piece I had with me, and also produced two other holster pistols
from my saddle-bags.

It was now nearly three o’clock, and a slight sea-breeze blowing over
the land, cooled the air, whilst groups of our merchants and
camel-drivers were performing their afternoon prayers. A valley at least
three miles broad stretched from north to south as far as the eye could
reach. From our low position, we could not see anything above the level
line of the flat top parallel banks which, not sixty feet high, sloped
gently into the plain below. The banks were of rough loose stones of a
very large size, but the plain consisted of rich alluvial soil, which
supported by its produce the flocks of one of the largest tribes in the
neighbourhood of Tajourah, the Bursane Bedouins, and the fighting men of
whom had now gathered for the purpose, as they avowed, of plundering the
Kafilah, and destroying the white man who accompanied it.

As the prayers went on amongst our people, the loud whooping of the
collecting tribe was answered by my Hy Soumaulee escort, who stood upon
the slope on our right, and facing that upon which were our opponents.
Garahmee, Moosa Gra, and Adam Burrah, spear and shield in hand, leaped
round and round, yelling with every bound, and then with lesser jumps,
seemed to trample upon the body of some fallen foe. Whilst jumping in
this manner, Adam Burrah fell down, and rolling over and over, was very
much bruised.

Ohmed Mahomed took measures in the first place to conciliate, if
possible, the opposite party, and some half-bloods of the tribe among
our Kafilah went for the purpose of effecting a treaty, but were
unsuccessful, and on their return, they were followed by a cloud of the
enemy, who now seemed to cover the whole further side of the valley. All
this time I had kept out of sight at the express desire of Ohmed
Mahomed; Zaido, Allee, and myself being left with the stores, every
other member of the Kafilah, after the prayers had ended, having joined
the Hy Soumaulee, were now sitting together in a large semicircle on a
level spot that occurred upon the slope of the hill. I was anxiously
watching the progress of events; for being some hundreds of yards from
the men of the Kafilah I expected for a certainty being cut off by some
rush of the whooping Bedouins, who, fast advancing, I could now see with
my glass, from the inglorious position assigned to me; their bright
spear-heads glistening in the sun, over the tops of the low jungle
through which they were passing. At length they approached far too near
to be pleasant to the feelings of Ohmed Mahomed, who had depended upon
the mere rumour of my firearms deterring them from making an attack upon
the Kafilah. At first it was not his policy for me to be seen, for fear
the parade might be deemed by the suspicious and jealous natives as a
kind of threat, and thus interfere with the pacific arrangements he
contemplated, and was most willing to see effected, but finding that
they had advanced within three or four hundred yards without any symptom
of the usual halt, preliminary to overtures of peace, Ohmed Mahomed
sprang to his feet, and brandished his spear in defiance, leaping and
yelling to deter their nearer approach. His efforts were answered only
by similar cries, and seeing this, he turned suddenly round, and called
out for me, Zaido, and Allee to come immediately, and join them. I
understood him and his position in a moment, so pointing to my pistols,
I bade Allee bring them along with him, and taking a gun in each hand,
with head uncovered, ran quickly up, and, as if inoculated with the same
savage ferocity as my companions, yelled in a manner that delighted, and
astonished even them. Adam Burrah, with a loud shout of welcome, came
running to meet me, and seizing hold of my wrist, dragged me into the
front rank with him, where, squatting down on his heels like the rest,
he pulled me down by his side. Ohmed Mahomed now came and placed himself
on my other side, told me that I must only fire when he placed his hand
on my arm, and adding the word “kill” in Arabic, pointed with his spear
to a tall young man who, with unparalleled boldness, had advanced to
less than one hundred yards of us, and stood making some inquiries from
one of the women of our Kafilah, unheeding the loud cries of “cutta,
cutta” (go away, go away,) that my friends were shouting with all their
might to drive him off. Excited by his insolent bearing, Adam Burrah at
last started up from my side, and having called “cutta” several times
without the young man deigning to take the least notice, he rushed
towards him. On perceiving this, the man instantly dropped on to his
heels, so that only his head and his poised spear could be seen above
his shield, and coolly awaited the attack, but Adam, seeing his foe thus
prepared, dropt to the ground himself in the same manner behind his
shield, at the distance of about twenty yards, and both began sparring
with their spears. Garahmee, Moosa, and others, called to Adam Burrah to
come back, and Ohmed Mahomed, willing to avoid bloodshed, sprang after
him, suddenly snatched away his spear, and thus disarmed, he was
obliged, but very reluctantly, to return to my side.

Considering that this was to be the commencement of the fray, I had
taken up my gun, and the man observing this, and the determined front
our little band sustained, thought it best to imitate Adam Burrah, and
slowly walked back to his now retiring countrymen, who had immediately,
on seeing me and the bright glaring barrel of my long fowling-piece,
with one consent turned, and began a slow retreat, in a long straggling
line to their original position on the opposite height, where, squatting
down, they assumed, like ourselves, an attitude of defence, as if
influenced by a desire to oppose our passage through their country
rather than to make a gratuitous attack, which was certainly their first
intention, before being acted upon by the wholesome fear of “the
villanous saltpetre.” Garahmee now appeared to have assumed the
character of commander-in-chief of our forces, walking backwards and
forwards between the two extremities of the little semicircle we formed.
In one hand, he held a small twig, which he waved about most
energetically, as he recited some long speech of a very
fiercely-sounding character. Occasionally, he tapped upon the head any
of the party who, tired of the sitting position, attempted to rest
himself by standing up. This part of their tactics, I observed, was
particularly insisted upon, and was done, I was told, with a view of
preventing the enemy from obtaining a correct knowledge of the numbers
of their opponents. Garahmee was a recognised authority, for in his
directions a marshal with his baton would not have been more implicitly
obeyed by his army, than was this half-naked savage with his little
stick by his wild companions.

We did not stir from our position whilst the sun was up, but kept
sitting in a very uncomfortable posture for me, some time even after it
had set, when Ohmed Mahomed, touching my elbow, intimated I could go to
my hut, for pointing to the men opposed to us, with a significant laugh,
he said, “they are very good friends.” Zaido and Allee accompanied me to
my hut, but the rest of the Kafilah remained in the same squatting
position until after nine o’clock, by which time a peace had been made,
and sworn to upon the Koran, between us and the Bedouins, a safe conduct
being given to the Kafilah through their country, which extended to the
Bahr assal, by a regular official-like document, drawn up in Arabic.

The present required by the chief was exceedingly moderate; three pieces
of blue Surat cotton cloth to distribute among the tribe, being all that
was asked for. At my request, one bag of rice was subsequently divided
among some of the principal people, as an extraordinary present on the
occasion of an Engreez coming into their country. All being settled most
satisfactorily to myself, and to every one else, I got my rice supper,
and slept the remainder of the night as soundly on the hard irregular
surface of the rocky ground as if reposing on the softest couch. It is
the excitement occasioned by scenes similar to the one I have
endeavoured to describe, which gives a zest to desert life, besides the
consciousness of having escaped a great peril attaches a value to
existence itself of which we have had no previous idea, for, like
health, it is sometimes held of little moment until we are on the eve of
losing it for ever.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                              CHAPTER VII.


Leave Daddahue.—Journey through the Rah Issah to Bulhatoo, distance
  seven miles, general direction, W. S. W. and S.—Halt for the
  night.—Journey from Bulhatoo to Dafarrè, distance four miles, general
  direction, west by north.—Halt for the night.—Journey from Dafarrè to
  Aleek’shatan, distance five miles, general direction, south.—Journey
  from Aleek’shatan to Alephanta, distance, seven miles, general
  direction, west and south west.


_April 2d._—Ohmed Mahomed had no wish to keep the Kafilah in a
neighbourhood so populous. His store of tobacco would have been
considerably diminished by such a stay, so he determined to push on this
morning for the halting-place on the shores of the Goobat ul Khhrab,
which we were to approach to-day, and take our last leave of the sea.
Six camels of the Bursane Bedouins also joined our Kafilah, and during
the march, the two or three good-tempered natives to whom they belonged,
were laughed at, and laughed themselves at the effect a few weapons of
the Jinn produced upon their tribe the night before.

The camels being loaded, we ascended the opposite side of the valley of
Daddahue, and continued along the ridge in a parallel direction with the
valley for nearly two hours, the road being over the same loose volcanic
kind of stones as those of the preceding day’s march. I still persisted
in walking with Ohmed Mahomed and the Hy Soumaulee, for my mule was so
wretchedly slow, that I was much more fatigued sitting on the saddle
than if I had walked all the way.

The road began now to descend into a deep ravine, four or five hundred
feet below the level of the plain over which we had been marching. I sat
on the edge of the more than perpendicular precipice which actually
overhung the road beneath, whilst the opposite height, but a few feet
higher, was not seventy yards distant. This pass was called the Rah
Issah by the Dankalli, from its having been the spot, and one very well
adapted for the purpose, where a rescue was effected by the Debenee
tribe of a large herd of cattle, and many flocks that had been driven
off their lands in a foray made by the Issah Soumaulee, a people who
occupy the whole country that forms the southern border of the Bay of
Tajourah, and extends inland without any well-defined division, as far
as the plains of Error, the residence of the Wahama Dankalli. From the
situation I had chosen, I had a good view of the camels as they wound
along the several traverses of the rugged path to the narrow watercourse
beneath, and many serious falls and considerable detentions occurred
during the perilous descent; full two hours having elapsed before Ohmed
Mahomed, myself, and the escort followed, for until the time that the
Kafilah was safe below, I could see that an attack was apprehended from
the Bursane people, even after all the ceremonial of the last night’s
treaty.

Rah Issah is the dry bed of a torrent which only runs along it during
the very uncertain season of the rains. It extends in a nearly direct
line to Goobat ul Khhrab, where it expands into a broad open space,
surrounded, except towards the gulf, by nearly perpendicular precipices
of a crumbling greyish porphritic rock. In the Rah Issah, the
overhanging cliffs threaten continually to roll down a torrent of loose
stones upon the traveller below, and that they are thus constantly
slipping, is proved by the immense quantity of loose debris scattered
along the road. Our halt took place in the expanded termination of this
ravine called Bulhatoo. Although we had been nearly four hours on the
march, I do not think we travelled more than six miles. Here my
shielding of boxes stood upon some exceedingly fine volcanic sand, so
hot from the direct rays of the sun, that I can readily believe that the
eggs of many birds which make their nests upon the ground in this
country, are aided materially in incubation, if not altogether hatched
by the heat of the sand alone, upon which the eggs are laid.

The water we obtained here was exactly similar to the celebrated
chalybeate of Harrowgate, being strongly impregnated with sulphurated
hydrogen. Ohmed Mahomed took me to a spot, wishing to know if I thought
sweet water could be found where a patch of bright red earth broke
through the darker covering of the sand. I found it was a beautiful and
very tenacious clay, and was convinced if an attempt were made, an
excellent spring of water would be met with. The labour, however, not
suiting the inclination of my companions, and as I preferred drinking
the chalybeate, we left the place undisturbed. Numerous dry thirsty
looking senna shrubs dotted the plain; their yellow laburnum-like
flowers, mocking by their glittering brightness, the dreary waste of
sand and rock around. Grass there certainly was, in large and dispersed
tufts of a coarse wire-like hay, rather than of the bright green,
yielding blades, we so generally associate with the idea of turf. We
remained here only one day and night, and I slept without any
disturbance beyond the pealing laughter of the whole Kafilah, from a
conversation kept up at the extreme ends of the camp by two of the
merriest fellows in it, Adam Burrah and Omer Suis. After every one had
retired to rest, each upon his plaited palm-leaf mat, and wrapped up in
his body-cloth, these two commenced shouting out their repartees at the
top of their voices, each remark being followed by bursts of laughter
from the rest. I could hear Ohmed Mahomed, who lay at the entrance of my
“bait,” as it was called, whispering suggestions to Adam Burrah, whilst
I dare say, some other friend, aided Omer Suis in the same way, or else
it is impossible to conceive how such a constant flow of wit could have
kept the whole Kafilah, for hours together, awake with the laughter and
noise.

_April 3._—We were up at sunrise and away, ascending a low but steep
eminence, along the ridge of which we travelled till half-past nine. On
our road, we had a good view of the Goobat ul Khhrab, “The bad haven,”
reposing in a dead calm, among the almost encircling hills of dark
coloured volcanic rock which surround it. The road lay upon one
long-extended sheet of lava reaching on one side to the gulf, where it
suddenly terminated, and on the other, to where a narrow, but deeply
water-cut ravine, had occasioned a sudden solution of its continuity in
that direction. Here was our halting-place for the day, called Dafarrè,
and on our arrival I descended into the ravine, which was in front of
our encampment, in company with Garahmee and Moosa. These men, with
great apparent attention, were anxious to find for me a cool retreat
from the hot burning sun, and in a cave that smelt strongly of wild
beasts I soon had my mat spread, my boots taken off, and all things
prepared for a sleep, which Garahmee was very anxious I should indulge
in after my long walk, for proud in the feeling of strength returned,
which enabled me to keep up, untired, with the best walkers of the
party, I still looked with contempt upon my mule. The only evil of my
retreat I thought was, that it was too convenient, and before Garahmee
and Moosa could well choose their positions on each side of me, some
half dozen people of the Kafilah also came and took up their quarters in
the cave. Garahmee would have had me retire to another and a better
place, which he said he knew, and which was but a little beyond a turn
in the course of the ravine, but as my boots were off, and I had
commenced a conversation with such of the people of the Kafilah, who,
like myself, understood a little Arabic, I determined to stay where I
was, at which he went away, seemingly much displeased. Like Ibrahim
Shaitan, however, under similar circumstances, he returned very soon,
and, apparently, we were as good friends as before.

It is rather difficult to find a comfortable position when reposing upon
loose uneven rock, but on reading over my notes under the date of
to-day, I find that to save time and to secure comfort under similar
circumstances again, I had noted down how to arrange things so as to
obtain a tolerably easy bed. I remark, sagely enough, that I must not
expect the pleasures of easy repose upon a couch which had the hard rock
for a cushion, and only large stones for pillows, but that to make my
resting-place as comfortable as it could be, I had placed my head
resting between two large stones, employing another as a pillow, which I
put under the arm of the side I lay upon, and one also behind the bend
of my knees, whilst a heavy one for my feet to press against without
fear of removing it, sustained me on the gentle slope of the floor of
the cave. Thus I arranged myself for sleep, and slept well; and after
some hours’ indulging in a confidence not often extended to the
companions of my march who lay around, Zaido appeared to summon me to my
hut for the night. Giving him my boots to carry, I collected my pistols,
and followed him barefooted up the long unequal steps of huge stones
that led from the cave to the summit of the steep precipitous side of
the ravine. Having reached my “bait,” a large bowl of boiled rice, quite
enough for the supper of a camel, was served up, mixed with nearly
half-a-pint of ghee, or the liquid butter of the country.

_March 4th._—We again started at the usual hour, sunrise, and marched
five hours and a-half across the most tremendously rough country that
can possibly be conceived, to be at all passable. Immediately after
starting, we descended a narrow road, more like a steep staircase than
anything else. It was not quite so convenient, but reminded me of the
one by which we ascend the Monument, which is about as high as was this
precipice. One by one, the camels slowly descended into a wide
fissure-like valley, that extended to a similar wall of rock on the
opposite side, and up which we had to ascend again. This fissured plain
opened upon the crystalline shores of the Bahr Assal, or Salt Lake, of
which we obtained a good view from the top of Muyah, the name of the
precipice we had just descended. We were nearly an hour crossing the
next plain of blown sand, which from its appearance I thought had
probably been conveyed by the wind from the shores of the Bahr Assal; it
was covered with the dry wiry grass before mentioned, and numerous
plants of a species of colycinth. Before we reached the only passable
place in the next ridge, we had to ascend a road which was so serpentine
that frequently we had to turn, and proceed some distance with our faces
looking in a direction towards Tajourah. In my notes I have remarked
that this plain must have been the bottom of the old portion of the sea,
which once connected the Bahr Assal with Goobat ul Khhrab, for I found
in some places a sandstone, very light-coloured, and a cretaceous rock,
in which I found traces of a spiral univalve and other shells.

After a long dreary march, during which we passed between and among
certain broad and square chimney-like vents of volcanic vapours, (for I
could account for their existence in no other way,) situated in the
midst of an extensive field of black scoreaceous lava, at the eastern
extremity of which, near Goobat ul Khhrab, was a small, but perfect and
well-formed crater. We at length reached a small winding wada, or
valley, in which were a few stunted doom palm-trees. Round the lower
part of their trunks had collected the decaying remains of their own
fan-like foliage, and the withered branches of some mimosa-trees, torn
up by a temporary torrent, and thus arrested in their progress towards
the Bahr Assal. Our road in this situation was along its dry bed, over
coarse black volcanic sand, which seemed to be produced by the crumbling
action of atmospherical causes upon the surrounding lava rocks. After
following the direction of the watercourse for nearly an hour, we
arrived at “Aleex’ Shaitan” (The Devil’s Water), where, to my great
satisfaction, we halted for the day.

I was too fatigued to take a survey of the country, and sat down under a
stunted mimosa-tree, over which I cast my black Arab cloak, to increase
the shade. Garahmee and Moosa, whom I had noticed walking all the day
together in earnest conversation, now came up, and desired me with
apparent kindness to accompany them to a cave, situated about a quarter
of a mile from the camp, and upon my not immediately complying Garahmee,
affecting to suppose I did not understand him, went and brought Ohmed
Mahomed, who, coming up, repeated the invitation to go to a “tihebe
bait” (a good house), with him. I had no objection to proceed, so
gathering myself up with no little difficulty, for I was very tired, we
all went to another den of some wild beast, where scattered bones and
other traces indicated its recent occupation. Ohmed Mahomed creeping in,
for it was much less than the one at Dafarrè, remarked that there was
but just room for me. As I expected he was going to remain, I pulled off
my boots and belt, and laid them with my pistols down at some little
distance from me, and should have gone immediately to sleep, had not
Ohmed Mahomed, made preparations to depart, and told me, as he got out,
that I must not sleep till Zaido came with my rice. This was quite an
accidental observation, and so natural, that I only asked him to send
Zaido quickly, and took up a position by placing myself at full length
across the entrance of the cave, which was not above eight feet wide, so
that Moosa and Garahmee, who had been squatting in their usual manner in
front, could not conveniently come in.

Some moments after Ohmed Mahomed left, Garahmee, under pretence of
stretching himself, laid down his spear, and turning round walked some
little way until he could get a good view of the camp, towards which he
looked with an inquisitive gaze, that told me at once I had been
betrayed into this place for the purpose of assassination, and felt
assured that a struggle for my life was now at hand. My heart beat
thick, but I determined not to show the least feeling of mistrust until
their game had begun; and placing myself a little more under cover of
the roof of the cave, awaited the first signal of attack to seize my
pistols, and defend myself as I best might. It may be astonishing to
suppose how two men could so far overcome the fear of being instantly
killed by my firearms; but Garahmee, who was a most cunning man, never
dreamt that his son, as he used to call me, suspected in the least his
design, so carelessly had I been accustomed to trust myself with him,
and had been so deceived by his particularly mild and quiet deportment.
His first step, after watching the occupation of the camp, was to
endeavour to take Ohmed Mahomed’s place in the cave, but this I
instantly objected to in a tone so suddenly harsh that he involuntarily
started, and sat down again just at my feet, but outside the entrance.
All this time Moosa had been sitting about five paces in front. His
shield, held before him, concealed his whole body, a black face and
bushy head of hair alone appearing above its upper edge; his spear was
held perpendicularly, with its butt-end placed upon the earth, in the
usual manner, when an attack is meditated.

Garahmee was evidently disconcerted by my refusal to admit him into the
cave, and perhaps if I had assumed a greater apparent suspicion, he
would have deferred his attempt until a more favourable opportunity; but
seeing me seemingly undisturbed, he took his seat at my head, and asked
peremptorily for some dollars; “and Moosa wants some too,” added he,
turning and looking with an expression readily understood by the latter
worthy, who instantly rose and taking the place just vacated by
Garahmee, seconded the motion by holding out his hand for “nummo”
(dollars). In my belt was the pouch made by Cruttenden for my watch,
which I had carried in the vain expectation of making it serviceable in
deciding the longitude of my halting-places, but perceiving the
character of the people, had never brought it out for fear of exciting
the cupidity of those around me. Its round form, however, as it lay in
the pouch attached to my waist-belt, made an impression as if dollars
were there concealed, as I afterwards learnt from Ohmed Mahomed, who
assigned this as one reason for the attempt which had been made. Drawing
the belt and pouch towards me, in the loops of which were still my
pistols, I took one of them into my hand, and throwing myself as far
back into the cave as I could, told them I had no dollars for them till
I got to Abasha (Abyssinia), at the same time telling Moosa to go for
Ohmed Mahomed and Ebin Izaak, as I could not talk to them in their
language. They were taken rather aback at the strong position I had
assumed, and the decided manner in which I had met the first step to an
outrage; for amongst these people a demand for something always precedes
the attack, to enable them to throw their victim, even if he suspect
their object, off his guard, in the vain hope that he might be able to
purchase peace by giving them what they ask for. Neither party, under
present circumstances, now knew what farther to do. I, of course, had
done sufficient for defence, and they found that they had too suddenly,
for their purpose, laid themselves open to my suspicion; but Garahmee,
with ready thought, on my telling Moosa a second time to go, volunteered
to be the bearer of the message himself, and retiring, relieved me of
his presence, and himself of the unpleasant feeling which must have
arisen in his mind on having been so completely foiled, and seeing,
besides, that I was perfectly aware of his intentions.

Aleex’ Shaitan was certainly the most unpleasant halting-place I staid
at during my whole march, for the natural suspicion excited of plots
being regularly formed for my assassination, made me not feel very
comfortable, especially when, on retiring for the night, I found that
Ohmed Mahomed, Zaido, and Allee, who generally slept around me, had left
the camp to return to the precipice of Muyah, to bring up some camels
that had been left there during the morning’s march, unable to come on
with the rest of the Kafilah. The larger boxes with which these camels
were loaded had been obliged to be taken off and carried, with a great
deal of labour, by men down the narrow and winding descents which
occurred on the road. I determined not to sleep until their return, and
sat in my hut eating some very hard sea-biscuit, indulging occasionally
in long pulls at my water-skin, the contents of which reminded me
exactly of the muddy streams that in very rainy weather flows through
the gutters of our streets at home. Having finished my light supper, I
sat at the upper end of my box fortalice, resolutely resisting for some
time the approach of sleep, until at length I found it impossible to
keep my eyes open any longer, so without knowing exactly the time of my
departure to the realms of Morpheus, I only awakened at the rude shake
which Zaido gave my leg, when he called me up for the next day’s march.

_April 5th._—We were on the march this morning by sunrise, our road
continuing over broad fields of a thin stratum of black lava, overlaying
a light-coloured and very finely-grained sandstone, beneath which was
the same cretaceous formation with shells I had observed in several
places yesterday. Dykes of a hard rock stood like high fences in a
direction from east to west, and on one occasion we passed some distance
actually along the interior of one, the centre of softer material having
been denuded, leaving two thin walls of the outer and much harder stone.

After a short time, we came to the watering-place of Aleex’ Shaitan,
which was a little to the left of our road, consisting of natural
reservoirs, or pools of small dimensions, which contained some sweet,
but very dirty water. A wada, or small valley, extended a short distance
to the right, in which were larger and greener mimosa-trees than any I
had met with before. I learnt that this was to have been our
halting-place of yesterday, but that it was preoccupied by a Kafilah
coming from Owssa to Tajourah, which was now passing us, and with whom
an interchange of civilities and salutations took place.

In saluting each other, the Dankalli place the palms of their right
hands together, and slowly slide them off again. A particular and very
long form of greeting then takes place, a number of questions are asked
in succession by one of the parties, and are replied to by a
corresponding string of answers. The other party then asks his
questions, is answered in the same manner, the right hands are again
slided over each other, and the parties separate to encounter other
friends. The greatest mistrust characterizes all their dealings with
each other, and the hand grasped during the salutation, I was told was a
certain signal of treachery, for numbers had been murdered by others
standing by, whilst thus held by supposed friends.

The women, when they meet their male friends, put on an affectation of
shyness, which, I suppose, passes amongst them for modesty. They take
and hold the proffered hand in theirs for some time, carry it to their
lips, and then taking each of the fingers, they press them in succession
one by one. All this ceremonial I observed performed, even by a mother
to her own son, who stood very majestically receiving this homage, as if
it were nothing but his due.

The road now began to take the course of the valley, between high and
barren hills of a sombre red colour, and of the same igneous origin with
the whole of the surrounding country; white bands of chalk with shells
lying upon and below layers of this rock, told of two different eras of
volcanic energy, between the times of which the limestone stratum had
been deposited in the estuary of a river that must here have entered the
sea, and which was probably before the separation from the sea, of the
salt lake of Assal. The shores of the latter, which, in a direct line,
were not two miles distant, we were now approaching by a long circuitous
ravine of some miles in length.

It must be kept in mind, that from the sea in the Goobat ul Khhrab to
the Bahr Assal, the crow line would not be more than six miles, although
from the rough and precipitous character of the fissured lava which
intervenes, the journey of our Kafilah across occupied three days, from
our halting-place on the gulf at Bulhatoo to Gunguntur, on the opposite
side of the lake.

As the valley of Alephanta, which we were now entering, contracted
suddenly, the bases of the conical hills on each side approached very
near to each other, and around them in a most serpentine course our road
now lay. Scarcely a trace of vegetation appeared to enliven this land of
desolation; it was most truly “the valley of the shadow of death;” for
at very short distances lay the bleaching half-eaten bones of the
skeletons of camels and mules that had here found the last difficulty of
the journey from Tajourah too much for their powers of endurance, and
falling, had been deserted by their owners. The monarch of the place, a
magnificent lion, stood on a small rocky ledge, about half way up one of
the surrounding hills. He kept his face steadily turned towards the
Kafilah, moving round as its long line marched silently past. My
carabine was cocked in a moment, for I concluded that he was meditating
an attack; but my companions intimated, that if we left him alone he
would keep his distance, and not molest us. Once I gave the long-drawn
death-halloo of the chase, but all the natives gathered hurriedly around
me to prevent my repeating it; and I found that I had only succeeded in
frightening them, without having had any other effect upon the lion but
the slow lashing with his tail of his yellow sides, a movement that
indicated anger rather than fear. He, however, respected our numbers,
and we left him still gazing in his original position, until the last of
the camels had placed the shoulder of a projecting hill between him and
them. It was proposed, in order to shorten the distance, that I and a
party of the Kafilah men, with Garahmee and Moosa, should take a short
cut over the hills, rather than the much longer, though more pleasant
road around their base; and as I wished to impress Garahmee, whose
abilities as a plotter I began to think were of the first order, that I
could still trust myself with him and his associates, and at the same
time be determined to take care of myself, I made no objection to the
proposal, but insisted upon walking the last in the line, affecting to
wish that I might see the lion again, and get the opportunity of a shot
at him. We followed a narrow path, ascending and descending the steep
sides of numerous low conical-formed hills of large loose stones that
occasionally detached themselves from under the feet, and went dashing
with increasing velocity to a little secondary ridge of the debris,
accumulating at the bottom. All around me were these hills of stones,
treeless, shrubless, herbless; a greater impression of desolation never
occurred to my mind, greater even than that produced by the
widely-spreading open deserts of Arabia, or the long and dark valleys
between the wave mountains of the seas to the south of the Cape, which,
under a gloomy sky, struck me, I recollect, when I was amidst them, as
more nearly allied to the character of human despair than anything I
could have imagined in the physical world. This is the idea that dreary
scenes are apt to suggest, and to which, perhaps, they owe that impress
of horror with which we always contemplate them.

Two hours were occupied in passing through this valley “where the devil
lies stoned.” It was likened, and very justly I should suppose, to one
so called near Mecca, by a “hadji,” or pilgrim, who was returning to his
tribe with us. We now saw in the distance the spot on the southern
border of the lake, where the salt is broken and packed up for
conveyance to Abyssinia; and on the broad extensive field of this purely
white and glistening crystallized surface, a group of natives, busily
engaged in collecting it with their camels and asses, reminding me of a
scene not unlike one in the panorama of the Arctic voyages, representing
the Esquimaux with their sledges and dogs upon the surface of the snow.

We soon descended the very gradual descent from the Alephanta Pass,
through which we had just come, and commenced walking across one portion
of the salt crust of the lake, which now extended in its full
proportions before us. Its appearance was very novel, and I examined it
with considerable interest, as it is a very remarkable feature of the
country of Adal, and a most important one to the inhabitants, being the
chief source of wealth and a great inducement to useful occupation to
the different tribes who surround it for the distance of several days’
journey.


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                             CHAPTER VIII.


The Salt Lake.—Journey to Gunguntur, distance from Aleex’ Shaitan, ten
  miles, general direction, W. S. W.—Scene of the murder of three
  Soldiers of the British Mission, in 1840.—Halt for the Night.—Journey
  to Alulee, distance seven miles, general direction, S. S. W.—Stay at
  Alulee.—Attack of the Muditu tribe.


BAHR ASSAL, by observations made by Dr. Beke in the first instance, and
afterwards confirmed by the observations of Lieut. Barker and Mr.
Assistant-Surgeon Kirk, officers connected with the Shoan mission, is
from four to five hundred feet below the level of the sea. It is
surrounded by very lofty mountains, excepting in the direction
corresponding with the termination of the Bay of Tajourah, where the
ground is one fissured slope of sheets of lava which have been poured
out from the neighbourhood of Goobat ul Khhrab.

Considerable evaporation of the salt water of the original sea, which I
conceive must have once extended to the lake, has taken place since its
separation; and as this operation is favoured considerably by the great
depression of its surface, the fresh water supplied by the numerous
small streams that flow into it on all sides during the wet season, is
not allowed to collect in sufficient quantity to re-dissolve the
crystals formed during the hot dry summer before. The northern extremity
of the lake is, however, free from salt in mass; but the water is such a
concentrated solution of it, that when tasted, it almost blisters the
tongue by its intensity. In extent it cannot be more than twenty miles
around, being longer in one direction than another, in the proportion, I
thought, of about five to three miles. We were about twenty minutes in
passing across the salt crust of that extremity over which our march
lay, and then crossing an extensive deposit of a large hard crystalline
rock (sulphate of soda), we entered a narrow dark ravine along the bed
of a small stream of brackish water, which was but a few inches deep,
and ran very gently into the lake. As we proceeded the water became
sweeter, till at length, when we reached Gunguntur, our halting-place
for the day, we found it quite fresh and in little connected pools, that
admitted the luxury of a bath, which I very soon took advantage of. The
brackish taste of the stream at the gorge of the ravine was owing to its
impregnation by the atmosphere, which bears considerable quantities of
salt particles for some miles inland, and which had also very unpleasant
effects upon the skin of my face and lips whilst I stayed in the
neighbourhood.

The camels now coming up, I had my house built with greater speed than
it used to be, as I assisted at its erection myself, not wishing any
more invitations to leave the Kafilah on pretext of superior
accommodations. On the occasion of the British Mission going up to Shoa,
this was the place where the murder of the two sergeants of
the——Regiment of Queen’s infantry and a Portuguese cook was effected by
the natives, insufficient watch being kept by the party during the
night. I heard twenty different relations of this atrocious act; the
perpetrators of it being well-known to the people of Tajourah, and
belonged to the Debenee tribe. In the course of the day, I took an
opportunity of mentioning to Ohmed Mahomed my rencontre with Garahmee;
and he told me, that if I left the Kafilah and accompanied the Bedouins,
I should always be exposed to the same attempts; “for I have my
enemies,” he added, “and they will (drawing his hand across his throat)
kill you, merely because you are my friend.” The Ras felt that his
boxeish at the end of the journey was in jeopardy, so instead of going
away to his own house of salt-bags, which had been constructed for him,
he placed his mat alongside of mine, remained in my hut nearly all day,
and slept there during the night. We had a long conversation upon the
division of the country we were passing through among the Dankalli
tribes, and I found that the Muditu and the Assobah tribes laid claim to
equal portions of the salt lake, with liberty to take up salt on their
respective shores. He added, they were constantly fighting either
between themselves, or with the Issah Soumaulee tribes, who in strong
parties sometimes came down and loaded great numbers of camels with the
salt. Gunguntur, our present halting-place, belonged to the Muditu; on
one side of the valley they had some huts, but the other was not
frequented by them, as no food could be found for their flocks. I rather
suppose it was the contiguity of the Issah Soumaulee, who on the
opposite side held them in check, and would not allow them to cross over
the ravine.

In the evening I accompanied Ohmed Mahomed to the scene of the murder of
the soldiers. It was a little open space surrounded by high red
precipitous hills, where two or three small streams joined the one
running into Bahr Assal. A triangular plain of loose angular debris of
several feet thick had been channelled by water, and seemed as if
traversed by a wide road having flat-topped banks of three or four feet
high. The sombre hue of its high embosoming rocks, the bare surface of
the stone-covered plain, with the absence of all vegetation, formed a
scene well suited for a deed of blood, especially if it can be pictured
upon a night when the moon, sometimes obscured by clouds, cast
occasional shadows of a pitchy darkness upon the earth.

It appears that the members of the Mission lay in a long line beneath
one of the low banks. In the middle of the night, Allee Chous, the Arab
sentinel, being probably asleep, two natives cautiously approached along
the level plain, descended the bank, and striking together, each having
selected his victim, the soft parts of the necks were divided almost to
the vertebre, and the two soldiers died without a struggle. The
Portuguese cook, who lay next to them, was disturbed, and seeing the
assassins, he gave a cry of alarm, and the heavy knife of one of them,
whilst retreating, was plunged into his abdomen. He died on the
following day. Some attempt was made to pursue the murderers, but the
darkness and the number of huge boulders around the base of the hills
amongst which they retreated, favoured their escape. As I felt quite
sure of the intentions of Garahmee and Moosa to serve me in the same
way, if they could get the opportunity, I felt no little anxiety on
turning in to-night, when on the level tops of the sides of my box
house, I saw these two rascals busily arranging their mats, as if
solicitous to convince me they did not wish any recurrence of the
tragedy, which had formed the only topic of conversation to-day; Ohmed
Mahomed, however, soon dislodged them, on the plea, that they ran the
risk of upsetting the boxes upon me, and as these wooden walls were
really rather shaky, they could not object to his request, that they
would make their place of rest somewhere else. To prevent, still
farther, any attempt during the night, that should not awaken me, he
placed a _chevaux de frize_ of camel saddles over the whole, so that the
removal of them must have made considerable noise.

_April 6th._—The camels were loaded, and we were on the road a little
before sunrise. Ohmed Mahomed took me to see a cave, made of some large
boulders, three of which sustained a fourth on their summit, as a roof.
They were of exceedingly large dimensions, the cave being at least
twenty feet high, which may give some idea of the size of these rocks
which had fallen from the sides of the adjoining cliffs.

We followed the course of the little river towards its source between
high steep cliffs of a porphyritic rock, generally of a bright red
colour. Here our path was rugged in the extreme, winding around huge
detached rocks that lay in the bed of the stream, and the tortuous
course and irregular surface of the road now rendered walking very
difficult. Sometimes, in more favoured spots, we snatched a passing
glimpse of small verdure-covered spots, where a solitary clump of the
doom palm-tree, or a sweetly-smelling mimosa, connected the traveller
with the earth of beauty he otherwise would have seemed to have been
leaving, as he traversed the deep, dark gully or cleft in the volcanic
plain of the country above and around him. Underneath the shade of one
of the doom palms, a rude cairn of stones marked the grave of the
Portuguese belonging to the escort of the Mission, who died near this
spot, from the wound he received at Gunguntur.

We were four hours marching before we reached Allulee, where it was
designed we should halt; and here I certainly was surprised to find
several broad sheets of water, clear and sweet, in which grew a great
quantity of bright green excellent grass. Considerable numbers of the
doom palm-tree fanned the air with their large leaves, and
widely-spreading umbrella-like mimosa-trees afforded a grateful shade.
The ravine here widened into a hilly but open country, a mile or so in
diameter, and we seemed to have come to a place where there was room
enough to breathe, and to feel happy in our escape from the narrow
confines of the ravine we had just passed. Several of the rocks were
encrusted with a saline deposit from the atmosphere, and a promise of an
abundance of game was held out by the quantity of antelopes that
resorted here for the sake of water. The salt, also, I expect, was no
little inducement, as in common with most herbivorous animals, they are
exceedingly fond of it. A little slope of gravelly soil, rising from the
edge of one of the ponds, and resting upon a steep lava-bank in the
rear, was the spot chosen for our encampment; and my quarters being
arranged as usual, I gladly retreated into it, to prepare, by a good
night’s rest, for the following day’s hunting which I had promised
myself, as Ohmed Mahomed had told me, we should take advantage of this
favourable spot to rest and recruit the camels, who were nearly worn out
by their tiresome journey so far.

During the day a good deal of washing took place, all the Bedouins and
camel-men taking this opportunity of washing their fotahs and
body-clothes. For cleansing-troughs they dug small holes in the soil,
which they half filled with water, and added thereto straw, or a few
handsful of fresh camels’ dung, as a substitute for soap. I found Zaido
had carefully collected, during the last few days, a mat-bag full of the
same kind of commodity, the produce of my mule, which he had very
carefully stowed away for this purpose, as he said it was far superior
in its cleansing properties to the camels’ dung. A regular washing day
now made the whole place alive; every body seemed anxious to be in white
apparel, and in succeeding lots, they took possession of the holes. They
commenced by well saturating their clothes in the dirty composition,
kneading them with their hands, and when tired of that, stamping them
with their feet. The clothes being then taken out, were well rinsed in
the neighbouring pond, and being opened out, a critical view was taken
of their condition, which, if not satisfactory, a repetition of all
these operations followed. After all this, they were dried and bleached
in the sun, and were certainly much improved in appearance by the
process of ablution they had undergone. The lively character of the
scene altogether had a beneficial effect upon me, and I felt again
enjoying the life I was leading. I also anticipated some shooting the
next day, and cleaned my guns in preparation, in which operation I was
assisted by Zaido and Allee, who managed by some nonsense or other to
derange the action of the locks of my carbine, for in their anxiety to
prove themselves fitting attendants in the chase, they persisted in
exhibiting their knowledge of firearms, by attempting to let the hammer
of the lock gently down upon the nipple in the process of uncocking.
This difficult operation bothered them a great deal, and the result was
that, much to their discomfiture, and my displeasure, they materially
injured one lock, to repair which cost me a deal of time and trouble.
The evening I spent talking with Allee respecting a great fight, which
some three or four years before, had taken place between the
Assa-hemerah Muditu and the other Dankalli tribes coalesced against
them, in which contest several hundreds were slain, and near to the
scene of which we should pass during our journey.

As night came on, a large feast of boiled rice and dates was prepared
for a considerable number of the Muditu, who had come into camp, and
were, as usual, demanding some present on the occasion of our passing
through their country. They came in so late, however, that they were not
aware of my presence; and consequently, did not come near me that
evening. Ohmed Mahomed being engaged with them till nearly midnight, I
closed the entrance of my hut with mats to prevent the intrusion of any
home or foreign Bedouins, and was soon fast asleep.

_Thursday, 7th._—This morning I was awakened rather unpleasantly by a
heavy shower of rain, which, penetrating my carpet-roof, soon wet me
completely through. I got out, and retreated to the thick cover of a low
mimosa-tree, over which some of the Bedouins threw my carpet, and as
many as could be covered by its shelter came and sat close around me. A
stream of thick muddy water suddenly came into existence, hundreds of
small rills issuing from every hill top, filling the hollow below our
camp almost immediately, and where a few hours before we walked and the
camels fed, a river too deep to ford, and above forty feet wide, rushed
with great impetuosity into the ravine we travelled along yesterday. A
camel having died in the night, a party of the drivers on the occasion
of this flood appearing, dragged the body into the influence of its
current which soon carried it away. One of its tributaries, a brook of
considerable size, very shortly afterwards made its way through the
centre of our camp, and actually turned one of the boxes over before
some dams of stones, and a small canal, could be made to direct its
course in another direction, so that the water should not damage the
stores, or the numerous bags of salt that had been unfairly added to the
burdens of our camels at the salt lake.

In this miserable manner I spent nearly the whole day, crouching on my
heels beneath the tree, and anxiously endeavouring to prevent my
firearms being rendered useless by the wet; and it was with no small
degree of pleasure that a little before three o’clock, I saw the rain
ceasing as suddenly as it commenced, the sun come out, and the volume
and force of the river rapidly diminish. The wet clothes were now
stretched upon the ground, or on the tops of the dwarf shrubs, of which,
in this favoured spot, great numbers were growing. My bed of mats, my
cloak, plaid, and carpet, in a very short time were perfectly dry, and I
was once more made comfortable in my retreat, but with the most dismal
forebodings of fever, and all the other evils which exposure to damp and
moisture in hot countries are apt to engender, and from the bad effects
of which I had only so recently recovered. After the very evident
depression occasioned amongst the Kafilah men by the rain during the
day, the warm and welcome sunshine of the few hours before sunset,
brought about a re-action amongst them, and when they had retired to
their mats for the night, another of their farcical conversations was
carried on by several distant individuals of the camp, who shouted aloud
their observations, whilst the laughing accompaniment of their
companions proved the zest with which they enjoyed this evident
encounter of some rival wits.

_April 8th._—This morning, the loud voice of Garahmee called us to
saddle and march two hours before sunrise, and, surprised at his
assumption of this part of the duties of the Ras, I began to be afraid
that Garahmee’s bold bearing, combined with his talents for finesse, had
placed him at the head of the Kafilah, although not possessing himself a
camel, or a single bag of salt. On inquiring from the timid whispering
Zaido, I found this to be the case, and that Garahmee had taken the
command partly from the want of decision and partly from the wish to
avoid a contest with him, not only of Ohmed Mahomed, but of all the rest
of the Kafilah men. Besides, Garahmee was supported by his four Hy
Soumaulee brothers, who were quite sufficient to impose submission upon
the peaceably disposed people of Tajourah, who had everything to lose by
a collision with them. It was Garahmee’s object now to hurry on our
Kafilah to prevent it being joined by another, which had arrived after
us, and was then loading with salt at Assal, and messengers from which
had arrived in our camp during the night, to request Ohmed Mahomed to
remain where we were at Allulee for it to join us, and proceed together.

Many of our camels were already loaded, and all had been collected for
the same purpose, but very reluctantly by their owners, as the designs
of Garahmee were fully understood, when all at once a general rush was
made for spears and shields, Ohmed Mahomed calling hastily upon me to
bring my guns, and take my place with the rest in a line of defence
which was formed a few yards from my hut. The women, all collected
together, were crying out “koo, koo, koo,” in a long-continued strain,
whilst the men brandished their spears with loud cries of defiance.
Garahmee, Moosa, and Adam Burrah performed the usual stamping _pas de
trois_ in front, and a man with the most ludicrous gravity, armed with
spear and shield, dancing round and round, with a very small and slow
step, from one extremity of the semicircle to the other, completed the
scene on our side of the preparations made on the occasion of this
sudden commotion. Before I made these observations, however, Zaido, the
black colour of whose cheeks was now changed to a motley grey, pointed
out to me about an equal number of Muditu, assembled upon the irregular
slope of the opposite side of the valley, who were approaching in a
close compact body, and not in the straggling manner as did the Bursane
Bedouins on the previous occasion. Every one of our party anticipated a
certain attack, and each had provided himself with a large fragment of
rock, which was to precede the hurling of the spear. As the enemy
approached very rapidly, and was now but a few hundred yards off, every
one of my party called upon me to step out and fire. I stood up
immediately for that purpose, and directly they saw me, the whole body
of the Muditu came to a sudden halt as if astonished at the unexpected
appearance of a white man, with the deadly character of whose weapons
they were well acquainted, as in one engagement, when a party of the
very same tribe had come down upon a Feringee Kafilah at the same place,
two of them were shot dead by the party who accompanied it, and who,
from several reasons, I believe to have been Kielmeyer, the well-known
German adventurer, who was returning to Abyssinia, where he had long
resided, and who was killed, according to some accounts, but by others,
reported to have died a natural death of fever, at Killaloo, a few days’
journey farther inland.

On the present occasion, the Muditu did not hesitate long what to do,
but immediately squatted down in a manner similar to ourselves, on the
spot where they had halted, and there we were sitting two hours, without
either party taking farther steps, for Ohmed Mahomed, upon seeing them
thus checked, pulled me down again by his side, and I was well content
not to be obliged to shed blood, unless absolutely forced by the most
extreme necessity. Some few of our Kafilah men now went and loosened the
ropes that fastened the legs of the tethered camels, it being far too
late in the day, even had not arrangements now to be made with the
assembled Muditu, for us to think of starting, and no interruption was
offered to the men engaged in driving out the camels to forage for the
remainder of the day. Opportunities of peaceful advances being made
having thus offered, I soon found Ohmed Mahomed and Ebin Izaak, attended
by Garahmee, retire beneath some, mimosa-trees, where they were joined
first, by several Muditu women, who had followed their male friends to
the rencontre, and who, it seems, came down here to invite our leaders
to a conference, but as Ohmed Mahomed himself had a blood feud with some
of the tribe unsettled, he was obliged to retire, leaving the management
of the business to the politic Garahmee and the young and not very
talented Ebin Izaak. The former, however, was quite sufficient for the
purposes required; but whilst I was glad of our being obliged to remain
now for the other Kafilah from the Salt Lake, I could not help
regretting the importance which circumstances seemed to be conferring
upon Garahmee, who, I was convinced, was greatly mistrusted by Ohmed
Mahomed, and who, if he had obtained the power of controlling our
movements, would, in the end, have certainly occasioned the loss of the
stores, and put an end to all my expectations of discoveries in Africa
in a very summary and disagreeable manner.

Two bags of rice, all my private stock of dates, and three pieces of
blue Surat calico, were our compromise for a safe passage through the
country of this tribe, with the understanding, that none of the Muditu
of that party should come nearer than what they were to our camp, but
that the rice and dates should be cooked and eaten on their own
halting-spot. Having agreed to all this, peace was proclaimed by
Garahmee shouting in the midst of the Kafilah for every one to return to
his charge, either of salt or stores, for the day. I crept into my hut
covered with glory, for Zaido and Allee, and a number of other idlers of
the camp came laughing, though very quietly, as if they were half afraid
of the Muditu hearing them, even at the distance they were. Pointing
with a slight gesture, the thumb turned back over the shoulder, in the
direction of the feasting enemy, they nodded at the gun on the ground,
and then laughed again, evidently as well pleased as myself at the
bloodless victory we had obtained by moral force alone.

Although, among other stipulations, none of the Muditu were to come
within a certain distance of our camp, a great many of their women came
begging tobacco and needles from me, tapping their lips, in mute
astonishment at my novel appearance, as they stooped down, looking into
my den, as if I had been some wild beast, caught and encaged for their
amusement.

A chief also was allowed to bring down to my hut, as a token of peace
and good will, a very fine sheep, for which I gave him some brass wire
and a little powder, which he asked for to dress a severe wound upon the
neck he had recently received in fight, it being a popular idea among
the Dankalli tribes, that nothing will cure a flesh wound so quickly, as
gunpowder sprinkled upon the divided parts.

I was very much amused, when the sheep was slaughtered, by the contest
which took place for the intestines and fat. It was of the usual Adal
kind, covered with short hair, entirely white, except the small black
head. The tail was large and heavy, consisting principally of a huge
deposit of suet overhanging from the rump. Two or three applicants were
almost fighting about the possession of this, which I at length settled
by dividing between Garahmee and Moosa, who retired with it, borrowing
my copper cooking-pot and a large wooden bowl from Zaido, for some
purpose or other I could not make out, but which determined me to watch
their proceedings to satisfy my curiosity. Having melted the fat over a
low fire they soon prepared with camels’ dung and dry sticks, they
poured the oily liquid into the bowl; Moosa then took his seat upon the
ground, sitting between Garahmee’s legs, who commenced, with a long
skewer-like comb of one prong, to comb out and arrange the rather
tangled mass of long stiff curly hair, which was the pride and chiefest
care of Moosa. Having tastefully adjusted the ends of the hair, behind
and over the ears, in one regular line, and brought it to a level
surface all over the head, Garahmee then took a large mouthful of the
melted fat from the bowl, and suddenly applying his lips to the surface
of the hair, continued to send it in spirts, so as fairly to spread it
over every part, and to do it effectually and properly, taking several
fresh pulls at the bowl, until he thought a just half was expended, when
he got up and exchanged places with Moosa, who did for him the same
friendly office. Garahmee, however, was quite bald in front, so all his
share of the grease was not only blown over the hair on the back part of
his head, but also well rubbed in with the hands. After this operation
had been duly performed, the character of their hair was completely
changed, and at a distance seemed, Moosa’s more especially, as if each
had on a skull-cap of frosted silver.

It is not necessary, whilst staying in this place, to record daily
occurrences, which were now beginning to lose all novelty, and
circumstances of different kinds detained us here for four days, now
being deterred by the condition of the country, which was reported to
have been flooded by the late rains, and now staying for the arrival of
the tardy Kafilah, which, for many very good reasons that Ohmed Mahomed
took care to enumerate to me, was especially wanted to assist in the
protection of the whole. The road also from Allulee to the Hawash was in
the most disturbed state, from the jealousy with which the Wahama, the
tribe of Mahomed Allee, the favourite Ras ul Kafilah of the British
Mission, viewed the present patronage of the people of Tajourah; and
what with the same spirit engendered also in the Debenee tribe, and the
avowed hostility of the Muditu, I saw little chance of any but the most
disastrous results occurring to the Kafilah and myself.

During my stay at Allulee, an affaletah (kid-skin bag), full of palm
wine, was brought me by Zaido every morning, he having suspended it
below an orifice made near the top of the tree each preceding evening.
Before sunrise he again ascended the tree, and taking the bag down,
conveyed it beneath his robe, with a deal of caution, to my hut. His
religion (Islamism) rendered this proceeding illegal, and he wished to
enhance the favour by the great appearance of difficulty in procuring
it; but a circumstance that happened one day proved to me that there
were other wine-drinkers besides myself in the camp. I was busy writing,
when, all at once, I heard loud sounds of merriment raised at no great
distance from my hut, and removed one of the side boxes, so that,
without exposing myself to the sun, I could see all that was going on. A
poor fellow, evidently too tipsy to walk, was standing stark naked, with
his hands tied behind his back by a long cord, the other end of which
was fastened to a large stone; whilst two or three men kept discharging
skins of water over him, that all the boys of the camp, in great glee,
were busy supplying from the neighbouring pools, raising a loud shout of
laughter as each skinful seemed to rouse the drunken man for a moment,
who staggered along, pulling after him the large stone, until he had
completed the circuit of the camp, when he was allowed to lie down in
quiet, and, covered with mats piled high above him, was left to recover
from his debauch.

Palm wine is a very thin, light liquor, tasting like excellent
ginger-beer, and, like it, effervescing every time the bag which
contains it is opened. I always could drink three or four pints a-day,
and Ohmed Mahomed would frequently steal into my hut, and help me in
finishing my large leathern bottle, which a skin bag may certainly be
called.

One afternoon I more attentively observed a very active game, in which
the Dankalli appear to take great delight. It is played with a hard,
elastic ball, and seemed to require more bodily exertion than our game
at cricket. The players divest themselves of their tobes and knives,
securing their fotah around the body by simply tucking the ends under a
fold of the upper edge. One of them then takes the ball, which he
strikes against the ground, and after two or three preliminary bounds
with it high into the air, he tries to catch it as it falls on the back
of his hand, then rolling it into his palm, he strikes it with force a
second time on to the ground, and again tries to catch it while falling
from the rebound. At this moment the other players rush towards the
ball, and attempt to keep it bounding up and down at a short distance
from the ground, by hitting it with their open hands thick and fast. It
certainly appears astonishing when some one more dexterous than the
others does manage, after many trials, to bring the ball into such a
position that admits of his being able to catch it on the back of his
hand, to run clear of the players, followed fast by them, strike the
ball fairly on the ground, catch it as it rises, and, with a triumphant
shout, throw it towards the party most distant from him. The new
possessor of the ball now endeavours, before the rest can reach him, to
go through the same required moves, and send the ball back in the
direction from which he received it. A good deal of laughing, shouting,
and wrestling accompanies this boisterous game, and sometimes heavy
falls are given, in endeavouring to trip up the controller of the ball’s
movements before he can effect his desired object of bearing it away and
performing the requisite ceremonial.

There is something in this game that deserves attention, it being of a
character so unusual among the people of very hot countries. I believe
it to be peculiar to the Dankalli tribes, neither the Arabs, nor the
Galla, nor the Abyssinians, their very near neighbours, knowing anything
about it, and never, as far as I could observe, indulging in such
energetic exercise. The only parallel case of a similar systematic
exertion employed for recreation among the inhabitants of a warm
country, is the amusement of cricketing among the English residents in
India, where that game is kept up with great spirit, and will most
likely be a favourite game with their half-caste descendants. Ultimately
it may become naturalized, like, I think, this Dankalli game has been in
the country of Adal.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                              CHAPTER IX.


Staying at Allulee.—Amusements.—More camels join our Kafilah.—Introduced
  to a new-comer, Ohmed Medina.—Journey to Gurguddee, time marching one
  hour and a-half, direction S. W.—Halt for the night.—Murder of a
  slave.—March to Khrabtu, time occupied, seven hours.—General
  direction, south.—Proceed to Saggadarah, time marching three
  hours.—General direction, south-west.


AS I had not seen my mule for some days, on the fourth morning of my
stay at Allulee, I sent Allee to bring her up to my quarters; I found
that she was bleeding profusely at the mouth, and on examination,
discovered five or six large leeches adhering to the under surface of
the tongue. It was a job to detach them, so difficult was it to retain
the slimy, blood-distended monsters in the grasp, and so tenaciously
they clung to their prey. Allee pulled, Zaido tried, and then Ebin Izaak
affirmed he knew how to effect their removal, but still the leeches were
of a different opinion, and held on proof against all efforts to
dislodge them, until I brought to bear the results of my professional
education, and by the secret application of a little salt, overcame all
objection, and the leeches dropt out one after the other, as if
mesmerized by my touch. My Dankalli friends stared, as well they might,
at this striking illustration of knowledge being power, especially as
the _modus operandi_ was a mystery they could not fathom, and they took
themselves and the mule off, with an idea that I must be a mighty
magician, like Moses of old, and that my knowledge must indeed be, as
they expressed it, “as extensive as the sea.”

I experienced a little surprise myself in the evening of the same day,
when the camels were brought into camp for the night. These animals are
driven out every day, in charge of one or two individuals, to browse,
principally on the green leaves and large clusters of curling pods of
the mimosa-trees, which abound in this neighbourhood. A little before
sunset, their owners and the slaves proceed in all directions to bring
them in, and although sometimes a circuit of at least eighteen miles has
been cleared of what little vegetation it boasts of, yet it is very
seldom a camel is ever lost, unless actually driven away by some robber
lurking on the outskirts of their feeding-ground. On this evening, two
or three men drove the numerous herds of camels before them, and came
into camp on one side of a low hill, whilst on the other the remainder
of the men who had assisted in collecting them came in a body, exactly
like the Muditu the preceding day. At a short distance before them,
pirouetting in a succession of bounding leaps, his body bent towards the
ground, whilst the knees were being continually brought up nearly to his
chin, the man whom I had seen punished the day before for being drunk
led them on. All chanted a low, moaning song, and came pressing hard
against each other’s shoulders, with their shields advanced, presenting
a very compact front. Having reached the camp, and paraded past my hut
in this manner, their song ceased, the capering buffoon suspended his
dance, and the party dispersed to assist in securing the camels for the
night, and whose number had been greatly increased by arrivals during
the day.

In the course of the last night, we remained at Allulee, twenty-eight
more camels joined us with salt, and nearly as many men; for besides the
drivers, two extensive slave merchants, had hurried from Tajourah after
us with five or six attendants and a mule. The principal of this party,
Ohmed Medina, was a fine tall athletic man, about forty years of age,
with a mild and very pleasing expression of countenance. He was
considered to be the richest slave merchant of the southern Dankalli
tribes; and, in the opinion of his countrymen, with whom he was a great
favourite, was, besides, a very courageous and successful warrior.
Instead of assuming the poor garb, and pretending great poverty, as did
Ohmed Mahomed, and the other chief people of the Kafilah, he affected a
very superior style of dress, wore an Indian finely wove check fotah, a
very large tobe, and a splendid dagger, the sheath of which was more
than one half of it overlaid with thin plates of silver. He evidently
cared very little for the reported character of the Bedouins, as
regarded their rapacity, and felt quite equal to a contest with them on
any disputed question that might arise. He attended very strictly to his
religious duties, but was far from being a bigot, excepting in always
expecting the coffee to be first handed to him on occasions of drinking
it with me, and as I was indebted to his presence for that real
enjoyment of travelling, which can only arise from a consciousness of
security, I was very willing to make even greater concessions, than in
this simple act, to secure his friendship and good will. As with him no
treachery could be suspected, I have frequently, without any other
companion, traversed for hours the sandy plains, or stone-covered
flat-topped ridges that constitute almost the whole country between
Tajourah and the Hawash. He was particularly quick in comprehending my
ideas, clothed as they were in very bad Arabic, and as we soon got
accustomed to a short vocabulary of the most useful words, and resorted
to familiar comparisons, when we wished to convey abstruse ideas, we
talked away for hours together; he amusing me by the simplicity of
several of his remarks respecting European politics and customs; and I
giving him long accounts of our wars, our commerce, and our religion.
His extensive knowledge of the whole country of Adal and of Abyssinia, I
found very useful, and he was ever ready to give me accounts of the
places he knew, of the roads, of the halting-grounds, and of the trade.
He would sometimes dwell with considerable interest upon the great
wealth that formerly characterized the commerce of Abyssinia, and
indulged in hopes that he should live to see it restored again, now that
the English had come into the country. He admitted that the Dankalli
tribes themselves, by their violence had depopulated and destroyed the
once extensive and powerful kingdom of Adal.

Ohmed Medina had visited Bombay and Aden, and had the most exalted ideas
of our wealth, and the political power of England; he often declared his
admiration of our laws and customs, and said that he should come and
live in one of our “belladee” or towns, and become an Islam Feringee.

Garahmee saw that his supremacy in the Kafilah was now impossible, and
with his usual tact, sunk into an obsequious follower, where he could
not dictate as an arrogant chief. For my own part, I now felt easy, and
secure from the fate which I felt convinced I should have met with had
not Ohmed Medina joined our Kafilah; as it was, had I been travelling in
a well-ordered country, my personal safety could not have been better
assured, and many a pleasant hour’s sleep have I enjoyed after a long
day’s journey, confident in his watchful care, for he always ordered his
servants to build his shade of mats, and salt-bags, but a few yards from
the entrance of my own hut.

I was first introduced to Ohmed Medina, during the march on the morning
of the tenth of April, when we again resumed our journey. We travelled
not more than three miles from our last halting-place, amongst little
denuded hills of a reddish porphyritic stone before we came to an open
plain of no very great dimensions. Passing out of the gorge of a small
stream running through banks which were covered with tamarisks, and
mimosa shrubs; we came suddenly upon a large shallow lake of fresh
water, which prevented us from continuing the march for that day. We
accordingly returned to the little wood-enbosomed plain called
Gurguddee, and which appeared to be a favourite burial-place for the
tribes in the neighbourhood. Among a vast number of others, two large
kairns, or heaps of stones, were pointed out to me, as being the tombs
of two great chiefs, one of which, however, appeared to command no
respect; or, in fact, only excited a contrary feeling, several stones
being cast upon it in contempt. A legend connected with it, reminded me
forcibly of the tale of Myrrha and her father. The other was the tomb of
a Sheik, celebrated for his piety, and was strewed over by palm
branches, and the decayed foliage of other trees. Many of the Kafilah
men, amongst whom I noticed Ohmed Medina, added each a tribute of green
leaves, and repeated a short prayer near to it.

A Kafilah of donkeys laden with salt, going to Owssa, came up with us
this day, and although the marshy lake before us seemed to lie direct in
their way, they would not halt, but taking a long circuit around its
border, went on their way, thus avoided any chance of collision with any
individuals of our party, which appears is always to be expected on
occasions of two Kafilahs coming together, and the greatest caution
marks the conduct of people who thus happen to meet. This cautious
suspicion of intention is also the sole cause of the great politeness,
which, it cannot help being observed, marks all their intercourse with
each other. One of the last traits I should have expected to find
amongst a people so lawless, and otherwise so savage in their manners
and customs.

We rested here the whole day. Zaido having been sent back to the last
halting-place, on some errand, by Ohmed Mahomed, returned in a very
short time running at the top of his speed, without spear or shield, and
panting with excitement and fear, as he came in. All our people turned
out from under the trees with their usual impetuous rush to seize spears
and shields. Ohmed Medina, Garahmee, and some few others, as they got
armed, went with me in the direction of the pursuing party who came in
sight on a distant height, but on seeing our approach they retreated
very quickly behind the hill again. After a short search, we returned
into camp, without the arms thrown away by Zaido in his flight, and
which we could not find. When quiet had been again established, and I
was sitting in my hut, I could not help laughing at Zaido’s grimaces, as
he endeavoured to tell me the jeopardy he had been in, concluding his
relation with a pathetic appeal to my feelings, wishing to know what
indeed the “Ahkeem” (myself) would have done had he been killed, and
trusting that I would supply him with a new shield and spear, in return
for his great attention and care of me.

This accident was the topic of conversation all day, and in consequence
of it a great zekar was held in the evening, similar to those I had seen
performed in Tajourah, and which was kept up until the middle of the
night. All their praying, however, had no effect in withholding the arm
of the assassin, for that very night, shortly after all parties had
retired to their mats, the devotees sleeping perhaps more soundly from
their exertions, the whole camp were suddenly awakened by a loud shriek,
followed by a sudden burst of clamouring voices, and a confused rush to
arms, during which several stumbled over my hut in their hurry. Ohmed
Medina was shouting, “Ahkeem, ahkeem.” Zaido was pushing to get into my
hut as I was trying to get out, and if his voice had not told me who it
was that was thus intruding, it would have been rather a dangerous
retreat for him. I got out at last, and made the best of my way, for it
was a very dark night, in the direction that the voices seemed to be,
and I soon met Ohmed Mahomed, who took me to the place of slaughter; but
I was of no service, the man was quite dead, and no art of mine could
close again the deep gash in his throat, that had terminated so suddenly
his existence. He was the slave of one of the camel-owners, and it was
supposed had been murdered by one of the Muditu, who had crept
unobserved among the camels, and had thus revenged the recent murder of
one of their tribe that had occurred in Tajourah.

_April 11th._—The catastrophe of last night, and the evident hostility
of the tribe we were among, induced Ohmed Mahomed, despite the bad state
of the road, to hasten on another day’s journey to reach a country
inhabited by the Debenee tribe, the chief of whom, Lohitu, a brave and
generous warrior, was a great friend of Ohmed Medina.

It was a very long march of nearly seven hours, for we had to go round
the shallow, muddy, but extensive Lake of Gurguddee, which occupied a
portion of a vast plain, lying nearly north and south, as far as the eye
could reach either way. It was bounded east and west, by long low ridges
of loose lava cinders, at the distance of about five miles from each
other. In a direction nearly due north-west, I was shown the high hills
across which I was told one road to Owssa passed.

Having doubled the southern extremity of the lake, or marsh, more
properly speaking, we passed across a level plain of the finest marl, in
which scarcely a stone the size of a pea could be seen, and traversed in
every direction by little narrow cracks, which told of the very recent
evaporation of a still greater extent of water than that which had
presented an obstacle to our direct progress. Upon this plain I saw for
the first time those vast herds of antelopes, which I had all along
looked forward to, as likely to afford me the exciting sport that has
recently tempted so many adventurous Nimrods to follow up “war’s dim
image” in the wilds of Southern Africa. In one herd I saw on the plain
of Gurguddee, there were at least from four to five hundred antelopes;
but they were so alarmed at the appearance and noise of the camels and
people, that it was impossible to get within shot of them, so after two
or three unsuccessful attempts, I resolved to husband my powers for the
fatigues of the long walk that Ohmed Medina was anxious I should
understand lay before me.

We were seven hours reaching our halting-place, the latter two hours of
the march, having been along the shady bottom of the dry bed of a stream
that sometimes flowed into the plain we had just crossed. Here were some
large mimosa-trees, under the shade of which I was glad to sit and rest
myself, towards the latter end of the journey, and await the coming up
of the camels, which the pedestrian party I was with had left far
behind. Whilst sitting here, one of the Hy Soumaulee brought me as a
refreshment, a handful of the young green pods of one species of the
mimosa-tree, which tasted not unlike the shell of the common pea, and
after a long abstinence from fresh vegetable food, I enjoyed this
singular kind of salad very well.

Six fine antelopes, part of a large herd that was browsing among the
bushes now approached within fifty yards of us, and as soon as I
observed them, without saying a word, or scarcely stirring from my
position, I took up my carbine, and fired at one as she had just put her
feet against the trunk of a low tree to reach, like a goat, the leaves
and tender extremities of the branches. She fell, of course, for the
ball had broken her backbone; and Adam Burrah springing up, rushed like
a hound upon her, and cut her throat in the most orthodox manner, with
his dagger, as he repeated the usual grace after the scrupulously pious
Garahmee, who had also run to his assistance.

My mule coming up with the camels, the dead game was lashed across the
saddle, after due examination by my Dankalli friends of the effect of
gunshot, as exhibited in the wound, and who shook their heads with
sundry emphatic grunts, as if the idea kept recurring to their minds of
the possibility of a like thing occurring to them, at the same time
balancing the open hand horizontally, giving the outer edges of it an
undulatory movement, a mode of expressing surprise, very common among
this people.

Khrabtu, the name of the place where we halted, was an open space, where
three dry watercourses met, surrounded by high crumbling cliffs of a
dark-coloured lava rock. A little pool of dirty water, at some distance
from the camp, was the only representative of the streams which, during
the rains, flow through this ravine into the plain we had just crossed.
Around us were large mimosa trees, the lower branches of which were hung
with the decaying and rotten remains of the uprooted palm and other
trees and shrubs which had been brought down, and thus entangled, by the
floods of the previous year. In what I should presume, during the time
of the inundations, were small islands, young doom palms made a thick
jungle with their large, strong foliage, and after the camels were
unloaded, it appeared a great object with the drivers to collect large
bundles of the green leaves, and during the rest of the day all were
occupied in removing the strong midrib of each long lobe, the strips
being preserved, as the material with which they sewed up the holes and
worn-out corners of the salt-bags, that were beginning to be somewhat
the worse for the journey. The Hy Soumaulee, who had no mats, or
palm-leaf bags to repair, devoted themselves to the much more agreeable
employment of skinning the antelope and preparing it for the
cooking-pot, but not without indulging in some portion of the meat raw.
Adam Burrah, for his share, took the bones of the back, and was now busy
endeavouring to separate them by bending the whole with both hands
against the upright sole of his foot, as, sitting upon the ground, he
almost laid himself upon his back, by the force of his exertions,
turning and twisting the many-jointed bones about, in a peculiarly
determined manner, to have it broken into as many portions as he could.
Allee and Moosa divided the raw kidneys between them, which they eat up
on the spot, whilst Garahmee, in possession of a very great delicacy,
sucked the almost liquid marrow from the shank bones; for this purpose
having smashed them, one after the other, between two large stones.

In a short time Zaido brought his large wooden bowl, in which were heavy
lumps of flesh, very hot, and but half boiled. On his approach, all
hands forgot their employments to pounce upon the cooked meat, and I saw
that if I did not make a push there was little chance of my getting any;
so forcing myself between the scrambling parties, I seized hold of the
first portion I could put my hand on and bore away the greater part of
the haunch, and upon this, occasionally daubing my tongue with a piece
of dirty rough salt I always carried in my ammunition-bag, I managed to
make as hearty and as savage a meal as any of the rest. I could not help
noticing the attention paid to new comers who were too late for the
scramble at the contents of the bowl. Some of their more successful
companions, would strip off a piece from the bone with their teeth, and
throw it at them, not at all in the gentle manner that we might have
expected, a kindness like that to have been performed.

Zaido managed to put by one whole leg, and to conceal it, had pushed it
under the mats of the roof of my hut, close to my head; for a joke I
took it down inside, and divided it, without his knowledge, among some
hungry Bedouins, much to his indignant surprise, when he afterwards
discovered his loss, for he unhesitatingly attributed the abstraction of
the meat, to the thievish propensity of his countrymen, an unhappy
failing he on more than one occasion had reason to lament.

Our Kafilah had now assumed the character of one united family, no
divisions, no continual calahms, that had characterized our progress
before the arrival of Ohmed Medina, who took his place as
Comptroller-General, and all of us submitted without a murmur to his
command. As for myself, I felt perfectly easy, for the same deference
the rest of the Kafilah paid to Ohmed Medina, was reflected upon me by
the respect and attention which he always showed, and which had a
corresponding effect upon all the rest. This night particularly, I
noticed the great change in the bearing of my Hy Soumaulee escort
towards me, who, instead of coming with a stealthy sneaking pace, as
they had frequently done before, to observe what arrangements of defence
I had made for the night, now came boldly, but very civilly, one after
the other, to the entrance of my retreat, and “negasseed” me almost to
sleep. The usual salutation of the evening being a long repetition of
the word “_negassee_,” signifying, I concluded, as much as our “good
night.”

_April 12th._—Left Khrabtu at sunrise, and three hours after, we reached
the halting-place of Saggadarah, situated in the wide bed of a small
stream called Korree. Its banks were composed of low hills of different
coloured, irregularly stratified rock, that if not volcanic, had been
greatly altered from their original character of deposited formations,
by the agency of fire. The whole valley abounded with vegetation;
wide-spreading sweetly-scented mimosas, and clumps of luxuriantly
growing doom palm, made travelling beneath their shade delightfully
agreeable. An immense number of a small kind of dove, with the slightest
tinge of red, scarcely a blush, blended with their usual silvery grey
plumage, kept darting from bush to bush, as we disturbed them anew,
every few yards we advanced, whilst the little antelope of Salt, and a
large kind of partridge, were not unfrequently seen running beneath the
thin underwood. Hanging nests of fresh green grass, were suspended like
immense bell-shaped blossoms, from the upper boughs of the mimosa-trees,
and the evident care of the passing Bedouins to prevent their shouldered
spears from injuring them, told of some innocent superstition, still
keeping alive gentle feelings, amidst all the rudeness of their savage
untutored nurture.

Ohmed Medina, on one occasion, when I was desirous of looking at the
contents of one of these nests, cautiously pulled down by its farthest
extremity a branch to which one was attached, without disturbing the
position of a single blade of its building materials. I then looked
through its little aperture on one side, but found, however, neither
eggs nor young, which was to be accounted for by its recent
construction.

As was generally the case, the watering-place was some little distance
from the spot where we had encamped. Water, certainly, abounded in our
immediate neighbourhood, but it was so impregnated with copper, that it
was known to the Dankalli to be “poison water,” and two or three
instances of its deleterious effects were related to me, and drinking it
was one of the causes to which I heard attributed the death of the
Feringee (Kielmeyer) at Killaloo.

In the black coarse sand of the dry bed of the stream, I found several
specimens of the spiral shell, which I had observed, as characterizing
the stratum of chalk, in the neighbourhood of the Bahr Assal. I
accompanied a party going to the sweet water-place with the camels,
where I bathed, and also picked up several living specimens of another
singular, but very small shell, the mouth of which opened to the left of
its cell. The pool in which I found them was situated at some little
distance from the camp, and among hard close-grained rocks of a reddish
brown colour, very different in external appearance, from those in the
neighbourhood of our encampment, which were of a bright green colour,
containing evidently a considerable per centage of the mineral, with
which the water in their neighbourhood was impregnated.

Either the half-cooked venison of yesterday, or the water in this place
disagreeing with me, all the afternoon of this day I was very ill, and
as I felt no better after bathing, I sent for Ohmed Medina, to consult
with him how we should manage, if I were too ill to proceed on the
morrow. Adam Burrah, who accompanied him, however, undertook to doctor
me, and, creeping into my hut, with a handful of fresh cow-dung, would
make me hold it under my nose, all the time he was pinching up the whole
of the scalp from the back of the head, beginning very scientifically at
the nape of the neck, and managed, by pressing it forwards, and pinching
it up from all sides, to bring, gradually, a good large fold of it over
my forehead. This he then included in a portion of his tobe, and
applying his teeth to assist him in its compression, I thought he would
not have desisted, until he had bitten the piece out altogether. I
submitted to this operation, because, in the first place, Ohmed Medina
affirmed it to be the best remedy I could possibly have to relieve the
headache, and in the next, I was determined to see some little of the
native practice of physic, and this was too good an opportunity to let
escape. The cow-dung, which was very affectionately broken into small
pieces, agreeably to their ideas of my delicate education, I very soon
dispensed with, assuring them, after a sniff or two, it had had a
wonderfully beneficial effect, and that I had no doubt, after my scalp
was well kneaded again by Adam Burrah, I should be quite recovered. This
was not actually the case; but as I took some of my own medicine, and
omitted my usual supper, by the next morning I was fully restored to
health, and as I gave all credit, and a fee of four buttons, to Adam
Burrah, I established his medical character for ever after, among his
admiring countrymen.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                               CHAPTER X.


Journey from Saggadarah.—Reach Bellad Hy, time marching, four hours,
  general direction S.S.W.—Halt for the night.—Journey to Ramudalee,
  time marching, seven hours, general direction S.S.W.—Halt at Ramudalee
  to receive the visit of Lohitu, chief of the Debenee tribe.


_April 13th._—One hour before sunrise, I and Ohmed Medina, attended by
the Hy Soumaulee, preceded the Kafilah. Adam Burrah being too ill to
accompany us, having, as it was asserted, contracted my illness of the
preceding night by his endeavours to relieve me, I left him my mule to
ride. We continued our journey between low flat-topped ridges of the
same cuprous rock as during yesterday, till we opened upon a little
plain, with green sloping banks on all sides, and evidently the head of
the small stream which, during the rains, ran along the road we had
come, and was called Bahr Saggadarah, or the Saggadarah water. It was
overgrown with large and tall mimosa-trees, and a singular rush-like
tree, with a thick trunk, the drooping leafless branches of which
reminded me very strongly of the emu-tree of New Holland.

From this wooded bottom, or flat, we began to ascend a gentle acclivity
by a narrow road, which soon altered in character, from that along which
we had been travelling for the two hours previously. Numerous stones of
very unequal size had to be stumbled over, and when we had gained the
summit a dreary prospect lay before us; a widely-extended country, or
table-land, covered with large loose blocks, of a black scoreaceous
lava. I took a last fond look of the narrow, but beautiful valley we had
just emerged from, and which I now found was a little green oasis in the
midst of a wilderness of stones. There was no help for it, so with a
long hop, as I recovered myself from a severe blow I gave my foot
against a large stone, when with averted face I was still looking
towards the valley, I commenced following my companions. I soon came up
to them, and found our new position was called Bellad Hy, the country of
Hy, from whence I imagine the Hy Soumaulee derive their name, although
it forms at present no portion of their domains, being part of the
country of the Debenee, who claim all the land from Gurguddee to the
valley of Gobard, a few days’ journey in advance.

I noticed on the plain of Hy, many tombs of the circular kind, like
those I saw of the Soumaulee at Berberah, with the usual entrance to the
south, and the line of the grave in the centre, placed exactly due east
and west. These tombs were so numerous that for the last few days of our
journeying, I had no occasion to refer to my compass to take the
bearings of our progress, as I determined it always by the position of
the graves, which I could do with much greater deliberation and
correctness than by the hasty, stealthy look at a vibrating needle,
agitated by my movements as I walked along. These graves the Dankalli
refer to a period antecedent to their occupation of the country, when
the Kafirs, as they call the previous possessors, had no knowledge of
the Koran, and placed the head of the corpse, when they buried it, in
the direction of the rising sun, and not towards the Kaaba at Mecca. The
fact was, that these graves were those of Sabian Affahs, the common
ancestors both of the Soumaulee and the Dankalli, and who, as the
Avalites of the ancients, occupied the whole of the eastern horn of
Africa. The introduction of the Mahomedan faith has effected the
separation of the two people in modern times, and now many of the
professors of Islamism are ashamed to own their Pagan ancestors.

In about two hours, we passed the deserted village seen by the very
worthy Missionaries, Messieurs Isenberg and Krapf; and I could not
resist laughing in my heart, at the idea suggested by a comparison of
the ruined stone kraals, so designated, that pointed out an occasional
station of the Bedouins, during the rains in this now herbless
wilderness, with the idea suggested by the beautifully told tale,
bearing the same title, and beginning—

             “Sweet Auburn! loveliest village of the plain!”

We proceeded with a skating-like step, very fatiguing to the knees, from
stone to stone, for several miles, a few tufts of dry wire-like grass
offering but a poor excuse for vegetation. Snakes, however, found here
sustenance, and a coarse-looking tuberculated lizard, sunned itself upon
the hot black stones, and being nearly of the same colour, its sudden
dart to a hole beneath, only made the traveller aware of its presence.
Deep fissures, not seen until we were close to them, traversed the plain
in directions nearly north-east and south-west, and sometimes long low
ridges of erupted rock, appeared just above the otherwise level surface.

Where we halted were a few stunted mimosa trees, low and dry, scarcely
to be distinguished from the characteristic grass of this district, and
promising but a very scanty repast, to the one hundred and thirty or one
hundred and forty camels belonging to our Kafilah; and worse than this,
not a drop of water was to be found in the neighbourhood. It was, in
fact, another “deserted village,” consisting only of the remains of
little stone enclosures, about three feet in diameter, covered on the
top with bushes, where it is usual, for the Bedouin shepherds, to secure
for the night, the young of their flocks from the depredations of wild
beasts. Here was also a large circular wall, of loose stones, about four
feet high, in which the older herds were kept.

One of these enclosures, we found large enough to form my house for the
day, and my carpet was laid over the open top as a roof, whilst mats
were spread upon the ground. The stores of the Kafilah were piled
around; and at a little distance, in long pyramidal ridges, raised upon
a broad row of stones, the bags of salt were heaped up, something in the
same way that cannon-balls are built into heaps in a battery.

_April 14th._—We left the halting-ground of Hy one hour before sunrise,
and, much to my gratification, suddenly exchanged the rough stony plain
for the dry sandy bed of an occasional wide stream. Here, again, were
abundance of the rush willow as I termed it, though not belonging at all
to the genus salix, and also some mimosa-trees; but I did not observe,
that the doom palm was present, nor did I see this tree again during my
journey. We did not long continue on this level and agreeable road, but
ascended a low acclivity covered with large round volcanic stones,
apparently detached from the heights above. After a short walk of about
half an hour over this jutting headland, as it proved to be, we again
descended into the bed of the same stream, for by having taken this
direction, we had cut off an extensive curve in its course. The dry
channel of the stream now widened considerably, in some places extending
in a long avenue, between two banks fringed with the rush willow and
mimosa-trees; whilst in others it would suddenly contract, encroached
upon by the huge masses of detached rocks, which seemed continually to
be falling from the edge of the lava-plain of Hy; it would then, when
the soft and yielding alluvial soil of the plain of Ramudalee on the
other side admitted, again expand into wide reaches of a fine white
sand. Where its straight course was most apparent, I took care to
illustrate to Ohmed Medina the condition of our roads in England, to
which, in some places it bore an exact resemblance; and growing out of
this conversation, a long discussion took place between us upon wheel
carriages. The description of the Queen’s state coach was a dream of
gold to him, and upon this, and its probable worth in dollars, he
employed himself thinking for the rest of the day.

Our pedestrian party preceded the camels a long distance, generally
consisting of Ohmed Medina, Garahmee, and the other Hy Soumaulee,
myself, and a variable lot of the camel owners, who would now sit down
and stay, or at other times run forward to join us, as the rugged or
level character of the road decided the necessity of more or less
attention to their camels, and to the security of their loads. The march
was a long one in a south-west direction, and it was very evident that
the plain of Hy was the separation between the waters flowing to the
east into the muddy lake of Gurguddee, and those which directed their
course, through the valley of Gobard, to the large terminal lake of the
Hawash, called Abhibhad. We halted several times, to rest ourselves,
under the shade of some convenient trees, and at one place we sat until
the camels came up. Here we found a welcome spring of pure water, that
was absorbed again by the sand, almost immediately after its escape from
the little circles of stones, through which it bubbled. It was embosomed
in a grove of sweetly-smelling mimosa-trees, that grew very luxuriantly,
favoured by the constant moisture of the soil. We all drank heartily of
the clear sweet water, and reclined upon patches of a fine velvet-like
grass, that beneath the tallest and more solitary trees spread a
beautiful green carpet for our repose.

Whilst thus enjoying our rest, two women and a girl appeared at the
opposite extremity of the valley, driving a few goats before them; their
empty water-skins were fixed upon the loins, and each carried a small
cup, made of a dried gourd-shell, with which they lift the water from
the spring into the skins. Their dog was with them, a kind of
long-legged harrier of a red and white colour, which saluted us after
the usual canine fashion, and received a shower of stones in return. The
women did not seem to be disturbed by our appearance, but came and
saluted all present (myself excepted) in their peculiar manner. I now
learnt, much to my surprise, that one of them was the mother of Omah
Suis, who instead of being one of the Hy Soumaulee tribe, with whom I
had previously classed him, was a Debenee, and son of Abucarl, the last
chief of that tribe, and would, should he outlive Lohitu, the present
possessor of the honours, succeed to the dignity, as the same rule of
descent was observed among them as at Tajourah, the title of Sheik, or
superior, being alternately possessed by the heads of two subdivisions
of the tribe.

This dowager lady of Abucarl, was a fat and rather handsomely made
woman, about forty years of age, at which period the Dankalli women
generally look very haggard. She wore the usual dress, a skin petticoat,
with a short fringe made of thongs attached to the lower edge, and
fastened round her waist by a piece of common palm-leaf rope. Upon her
neck she bore a very large necklace of small spiral shells, of a dark
blue colour, with a continuous white line winding around, and
interspersed with these, were large red beads of some coloured resinous
composition, manufactured on the shores of the Red Sea, and brought from
thence by merchants travelling into the interior. Hanging before her
ears, were large triangularly formed appendages four or five inches
long, the base depending below being, at least, three inches. These were
made of thick brass wire, and from them were suspended, several large
pieces of pewter. At first, I considered them to be the very extreme of
barbarous ear-rings, but on looking more closely, I found they were not
attached to the ear at all, but suspended from the top of the head, and
secured from falling forwards, by narrow fillets of greasy rag tied
behind. A square piece of blue cotton cloth folded into a triangular
shape, and soaking with ghee (the liquid butter of the country) was worn
as a head dress, and protection from the sun. I should observe, that her
hair was plaited into innumerable small strings, similar to the style of
hair-dressing adopted by the women of Gurahgee, and the slave-girls at
Tajourah. I am not quite sure, but I think the hair is also dressed in
this manner by the Soumaulee and Galla females.

Her older friend wore a corresponding dress and ornaments, but the girl
had only the skin petticoat, and held in her hand a pair of old sandles,
made very simply of a single strip of ox-skin fitted to the shape of the
sole of the foot with lappels on each side, to which were attached the
thongs which fastened them upon her feet.

During our conversation with the new comers, the camels, with Omah Suis,
came up; and his mother without any difference of manner, as I could
perceive, performed the usual salutation, by pressing the separate
fingers of his hand successively, as she had done to the least known
individual of the group, and he seemed to be no more affected by her
presence, than if she had been a stranger.

In, about an hour afterwards, we came to our halting-place upon the
gravelly plain of Ramudalee, two or three miles beyond the bed of the
stream, and where it was determined that we should stay some few days to
await the arrival of Lohitu, in whose territories and near whose kraal
we then were. The chief was absent endeavouring to assemble the braves
of the several Dankalli tribes, against the Issah Soumaulee, who had
been making some inroads into the country; and besides stealing some of
his own camels had murdered one of his relations.

When I had taken possession of my hut, Omah Suis brought up his mother,
and told me who she was; and with more affection than I had given him
credit for, remarked that if I thought he was my friend, I was to make
my acknowledgments to her. Now Omah Suis was a very great favourite of
mine, for his willingness to assist, on all occasions, Zaido and Allee
in looking after my mule and building my hut; besides which, as he
scarcely ever begged for anything, but bore himself right royally, I
suppose by virtue of his birth, I had determined in my own mind, to give
him a good present at parting. Having in one of my boxes a much
handsomer necklace than that which his mother had on, I instructed
Allee, who was our interpreter, to tell her to come for it, when, under
cover of night, I could take it unseen by the other natives from the
box. In the mean time, I gave her a fresh cover of blue cotton cloth for
her head, and a few needles, with which she departed very well pleased.

Towards evening she came again for the promised necklace, bringing with
her a large skin full of delicious clotted cream, which she intimated by
significant signs, I must put out of sight, or some one would be sure to
come and steal it; and also, that in the morning, when the sun rose, she
would come again for the bag. I took her advice about hiding it, and
what I did not put out of sight, in the readiest manner, by drinking
there and then, was laid under the head of the mat behind me; and,
during the night, I managed to finish it entirely.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                              CHAPTER XI.


Staying at Ramudalee.—Himyah and his matchlock.—Chase of a
  hyæna.—Visitors from the Debenee tribe.—Guinea-fowl shooting.—Ahkeem
  shooting.—Arrival of Lohitu, Chief of the Debenee.—April 17th, leave
  Ramudalee for the valley of Gobard, general direction S.W., time
  occupied on the journey six hours.


_April 15th._—There was some rain a few hours before sunrise, and
however grateful it might be to thirsty nature in this scorched-up
country, I felt very uncomfortable myself, for it came soaking through
my carpet-roof, and I awoke in a state of wretchedness that no physical
misfortune, except actual bodily injury, could have occasioned; but
lying in a heavy rain upon the bare earth, or, what is worse, upon wet
palm-leaves, (for my mats consisted of nothing else,) was but miserable
accommodation for an invalid traveller.

The sun rising, however, put a stop to the descent of the rain, and by
nine o’clock the camp was all comfortably dry again, so rapidly, in this
country, is the water either absorbed by the arid soil or evaporated by
the sun.

Ohmed Medina, and a sporting character who had been a close attendant
upon me during our journey, but of whom I have not had occasion to speak
before, now came to invite me to take a walk around the neighbourhood of
our camp, for in the valley below, and, in fact, on all sides, we could
see considerable numbers of deer, which promised no little sport. The
individual I now introduce to the reader was named Himyah, and was a
tall, ugly, middle-aged man, the very person whom I particularized in
Tajourah as being the possessor of the only matchlock, previous to Mr.
Cruttenden presenting one to the Sultaun’s brother, Izaak. This morning
I found that he had brought his clumsy piece with him; it had escaped my
observation before, from its looking so very little like a gun, as it
was carefully wrapt up in a lot of rags, and lashed behind a heap of
salt on one of Himyah’s camels. Its stock consisted of one long piece of
wood, of equal dimensions through its whole extent, from the muzzle to
the back of the pan of the lock, where a slight bend terminated in a
semi-lunar butt-end, something in the form of half a Dutch cheese, its
round surface being adapted to the hollow of the shoulder. The barrel
was nearly six feet long, and the metal loops for receiving the ramrod
being broken off, this necessary appendage was obliged to be carried in
the barrel, secured within the muzzle by a tightly-fitting piece of
wood.

I was very glad to have the opportunity of seeing the country, which had
become remarkably changed in its character, since crossing the bed of
the stream we travelled down yesterday, and which was a natural
division, very well marked, between the wild volcanic desert to the east
and south, and the extensive undulating plain of gravelly soil to the
west, which was thickly covered with high tufts of a strong, coarse
grass, and afforded plenty of food for the camels. It was, in fact, the
great inducement for our halt at this place, although attributed by the
politic Ohmed Mahomed, to a desire on his part not to offend Lohitu, by
passing any further through his dominions without a conference.

Mimosa-trees also abounded here, and their bright green delicate
foliage, when growing closely together, made some better watered parts
of the country look as if covered with extensive meadows. Herds of some
hundreds of a species of antelope, called “wydiddoo” could be observed
in one direction, feeding on the edges of these woods, whilst on the
other side, the less but more elegant “symbilla” was raising itself
almost into the trees, to reach the tufts of curled seed-pods, that form
its favourite food. These pods were also being gathered in considerable
quantities by the camel-men, who placed them carefully in their
body-cloths, or tobes, and intended them as a _bonne bouche_, for any
camel deemed not altogether in such condition, as its owner could wish.
They were always a dose at bed-time, being given the last thing, after
the camels had been driven home, and had lain down for the night.

Ohmed Medina, Zaido, and Allee, with their spears and shields,
accompanied Himyah and myself with our guns, and we proceeded down the
face of the declivity, from our camp to the edge of the winding
watercourse in front. Here, on the stiff clay of the not yet quite dried
up pools which resulted from this morning’s rain, we found the large
footprints of a hyæna, that had been prowling round the camp, and we
immediately set about following the traces, in the hopes of meeting a
nobler object of attack, than the fearful and provokingly shy antelope.
These foot-marks took us in the direction of the lava-plain of Hy, and
we soon found, that the extreme difficulty of recovering several times
the broken trail, and the little chance we, could have, in the country
he seemed to have retired to, of coming upon his retreat before he
discovered our approach, offered no sufficient inducement for us to
continue the chase.

Ohmed Medina had just come to a stand, and was making the proposal for
us to return, when Zaido and Allee, simultaneously pointed in the
direction of one of the numerous kairns, that mark the graves of the
Dankalli. There we saw the object of our pursuit on the look-out, and
apparently watching our movements, his grizzly head and high shoulders,
protruding beyond the cover afforded by a large kairn, at the distance
of at least four times the range of my short carbine. To circumvent him
by some means or other, however, was our determination, so Ohmed Medina
directed us all to squat down on our heels, as in the usual manner for a
calahm, I having intimated to him, the impossibility of my killing the
beast so far off, by shaking my head, and pointing to the length of my
gun, and then to the great distance intervening. By good fortune, the
hyæna seemed as determined as ourselves, to see the affair properly
over, and kept his eyes fixed upon us all the time, as if we had been
sitting in the direction he wished to go, and was waiting for us to
retire.

After a few words amongst ourselves, Himyah got out of the little
circle, and first moving off towards the camp, until well out of sight
of the hyæna, he made a sudden turn to the right, and stealing among the
detached portions of rock, which abounded along the edges of the plain,
he, in a short time, made his appearance again far in the rear of the
animal, who was still sitting, like ourselves, on its haunches, and not
in the least aware of the dangerous proximity of the ugly Dankalli, with
his still more ugly matchlock. All at once we saw Himyah drop behind a
large stone, that quite screened him from our observation, during the
long time he was taking his aim, but which, it seems, afforded him a
most advantageous rest for the long barrel of his piece. After some
minutes of suspense, a little puff of smoke from the pan of his large
lock, told that at length the death of our victim was determined. We
were, however, disappointed, for no report followed, and again we had to
wait for the long operation, of pricking and priming the touch-hole
afresh, and we certainly began to think that before Himyah could get
ready, the hyæna would be off. But he was a doomed beast, and his senses
had left him; so at last bang went the matchlock, knocking Himyah into
sight one way by the recoil, and on the other, the hyæna over and over
into the open ground, where Zaido and Allee, racing to be first, soon
terminated his struggles with their spears. Himyah was delighted with
the success of his shot. Ohmed Medina thought the old matchlock was a
“tihebe bandook” (a capital gun), whilst Zaido and Allee were beckoning
a crowd of Bedouins and Kafilah men, who had heard the report, and were
now hastening in a long line, to witness the grand feat in the sporting
annals of their country, the honour of which belonged entirely to them,
through Himyah’s creditable firing, and who was saluted accordingly by
several as an “Engreez got-tam,” (English soldier.)[3]

Footnote 3:

  Unfortunately, the very blasphemous ejaculation, so frequently used by
  our soldiers in their conversations, has become their cognomen in the
  East, and is the only word which the Dankalli employ to designate
  them. I well recollect that when Ohmed Mahomed was telling me about
  the murder at Gunguntur, on my asking him how many were killed, he
  replied “Two got-tam,” (the two soldiers) “and one radgpoot,” this
  being the Portuguese cook.

After Himyah had been duly congratulated and praised on all sides, I
began to examine a severe wound on his face, which had been cut by the
butt end of his matchlock in the recoil; and it was well that the
cheek-bone, was in his case unusually high and prominent, or he would
certainly have seriously damaged his eye, or perhaps knocked it out
altogether. A piece of my frock, which I tore off for the occasion, and
a little shaking of my powder-flask over the wound, set all to rights
again, and having presented him with nearly twelve charges of powder, as
a reward for his dexterity, I made him both comfortable and happy, under
the circumstances, and we proceeded afresh in search of game.

We descended into the bed of the stream which we kept along but a very
short time before we came upon a numerous covey of fine guinea-fowl,
walking before us at a rapid rate. I should suppose there were nearly
fifty or sixty of them, and whether it was that numbers gave confidence,
or that they were unsuspicious, from never having been molested before,
after having got out of our direct course, they seemed to think, that
was quite as much as was expected or wanted, and began pecking away on
the banks on either side again, with as much careless ease, as if they
had been so many barn-door fowls. I soon drew the charge of one of my
barrels, and substituted some shot for the bullet with which it was
loaded; for having anticipated meeting with only large animals, I had
prepared accordingly. Leaving the group of my attendant friends, I crept
to the trees which fringed the borders of the watercourse, and surprised
myself exceedingly by finding, as I cautiously looked up, that I was not
more than ten or fifteen yards from several dozen of the guinea-fowl,
who only walked on a little farther when they saw me.

It was a sad case of misplaced confidence; for upon the strength of
their great tameness, I took the opportunity of adding a few of the fine
small pebbles, which abounded where I stood, to the charge of shot, and
on firing this mixture among them, eight or nine of these fine birds
fell fluttering together. As one or two, which were but slightly
wounded, succeeded in getting away, I sprang forward to pick up the
rest, a task in which I was assisted by Zaido, Allee, and Himyah, who,
with their long knives unsheathed, seemed as if rushing to an attack
upon the Muditu, or Issah Soumaulee. I soon found that all this hurry,
was to secure the performance of the rites of religion over the dying
birds; each being taken up, the head turned towards Mecca, and the
throat cut, whilst the usual short prayer of Ul’ Allah, or Allah Achbah,
was hurriedly pronounced.

One, and only one, was voted too late to receive the last consolations
of religion, although I am sure, that more than one half of the others
were quite dead, before this attention could be paid to them. To this
one, over which no rite was performed, I volunteered to give a Christian
burial with rice, &c., in my cooking-pot. As I thus got as much as I
wanted in return for my shot, whilst the other birds went to my Islam
attendants, the division was hailed with universal approbation, and was
followed by a general consent to return to camp, bearing our game in
triumph slung upon a spear, and carried on the shoulders of two men.
This was the best course that could be adopted, for what with the report
of the guns, and the noisy talking crowd of Bedouins who had now
collected, there was not much likelihood that we should have another
chance of adding to our bag, as everything in the shape of an antelope
had taken alarm and trotted away to a distance, farther than Ohmed
Medina deemed it prudent for us to follow.

In the afternoon several men of the Debenee tribe came into camp. They
were very friendly, and accordingly very troublesome, pestering me for
the remainder of the day, for small presents of needles, paper, and
buttons. Tobacco was a continual demand of theirs, and the only method I
could take to get rid of them was by referring them to Ohmed Mahomed,
who undertook, at my request, to divide two large skin bags of this
luxury amongst them. Women also brought milk in large quantities, which
they offered for the most trifling things. A square bit of paper,
scarcely four inches in extent, would purchase at least a gallon of the
richest and sweetest milk, and Allee, Zaido, and myself so satisfied
ourselves with it, as to be enabled to present the guinea-fowls,
intended for our dinner in the evening, to others less fortunate than
ourselves. As my particular one had been boiled in the same cooking pot
with the rest, and the bit of stick that had been placed upon it as a
mark, being lost, I thought, of course, that all must go to the dogs;
but silence upon the subject was the order of the day, nothing being
said about it by us, and no questions asked by the others, so the birds,
both the Christian and Islam, were gladly received and speedily
devoured, by our hungry and unscrupulous friends.

The next morning I proposed hunting again, and the same party as
yesterday started, but as we could get no opportunity of approaching the
antelopes near enough for a shot, Himyah, of whose dexterity as a
marksman I had had honourable evidence the day before, tried this
morning his skill upon me, but fortunately, having no rest for his
matchlock, the ball went some few inches over my head. The circumstances
that occasioned this were most singular and accidental. Before us was a
herd of about twenty Wydiddoo antelopes; their white faces, yellow
sides, and black straight horns, just visible over the tall grass, among
which they were feeding. It was to outflank these, and take them on
whichever side they should dart when they discovered us, that directed
the plan of our approach. We both stooped low upon the ground, and crept
cautiously along so as to be lost entirely to sight among the grass. In
this tiresome manner we proceeded for about a quarter of an hour, both
diverging nearly in a right line from each other, the rest of our party
all this time sitting close to the ground, in the place where we started
from. We moved in opposite directions, until we had placed a distance of
at least half a mile between us, before we began to bend again towards
the sides of the herd, and as I had to get within eighty yards of them,
before I could fire with any hope of success, whilst Himyah’s long
matchlock would carry pointblank at least two hundred yards, he arrived
at a point favourable for a shot, long before I did. My yellow Arab
dress was exactly the colour of the deer, and the short barrel of my
carbine projecting over my head, as I carried it conveniently upon my
shoulder, made no bad representation of a horn, especially when seen in
profile, and in fact I intended taking advantage, of all these
favourable circumstances, to aid me in my approach on our timid game.
Just as my heart was beating thick, with the hopes and expectancy of a
successful shot, and I had begun actually to laugh in my sleeve, at the
simplicity of the deceived animals, all at once I was astonished by the
sharp _phit_ of a ball, as it passed close to my head, followed by a
report, that for a moment seemed to paralyze the startled deer, but
which, before I could recover from my own surprise, placed a long
distance between me and them. The astonishment of Himyah may be supposed
when he saw me bound to my feet. His first idea was to seek for shelter
among the high grass, either to cover himself from the expected shot in
return, or to hide himself altogether from my sight. Seeing me, however,
turning from him and look towards the deer, to see if any chance of
obtaining a shot still existed, he made off directly to Ohmed Medina, to
whom he was relating all the particulars when I came up. With apparent
fear, that for the future I should mistrust his intentions towards me,
he immediately took my hand between his, and protested in an emphatic
manner, that it had been the deception of my appearance, which had so
extraordinarily misled him, in this attempt to procure some venison. I
readily excused him; but after this adventure it was determined that we
should return to camp, as in our limited sporting ground, there was no
hope of obtaining that day, such another chance as the one we had just
lost; and besides, the sun was getting so exceedingly powerful, that we
were all glad to escape from its burning rays.

Omah Suis, in return for the presents I had made his mother, brought me
several pounds of fine Owssa dates, which added not a little to the
savouriness of my rice puddings, for I had begun to boil my usual mess
with milk instead of water, adding not a little to Zaido’s knowledge of
cooking, which had wonderfully increased since his association with me,
he having learnt to curry a guinea-fowl, and to make sougee-gruel almost
as well as myself.

On the occasions of previous journeys, he often remarked, he had eaten
nothing the whole way, but wheat boiled in water, and broken dried bread
of the jowaree flour. I am afraid he was rendered unhappy for the rest
of his life; for after his acquaintance with me, and the diet I had
accustomed him to, he never could, I should think, relish again the
simple fare of his countrymen. The jowaree bread, for example, was a
crumbly dust, of a bright red colour, very sour to the taste. I have
eaten many handfuls of it on emergencies, certainly, but it was only
because I could get nothing else. The boiled wheat was another of their
messes; this, with rich clotted cream, was not so unpalatable, although
my puddings of dates, rice, and milk, were allowed to be greatly
superior, and a volunteer dinner party, were always ready to finish the
contents of a large cooking-pot, which, for the sake of popularity, I
used to direct Zaido to prepare every day.

On the second evening of our stay at Ramudalee, after I had turned in,
Zaido disturbed me to report the arrival of Lohitu, who had come into
camp with three or four attendants, and who very shortly afterwards made
his appearance with Ohmed Medina and Ohmed Mahomed, and sat talking till
near midnight at the entrance of my hut. A bowl of rice was prepared for
them by Zaido, who called me up again to lend them my only spoon, which
was used alternately, one after the other taking it, and having conveyed
a large quantity of rice into his mouth, gave it to his neighbour in the
politest manner possible. After this social repast, rolling themselves
in their tobes, they lay down upon mats, which Zaido had placed for that
purpose, and continued their conversation until long after I was asleep.
I noticed that there was more real respect paid to this chief than to
all the others we met with on the road; and as Lohitu had a very great
character for generosity of disposition, and was also acknowledged to be
the bravest man of his tribe, I think that the attention paid to him by
the heads of our Kafilah, and which was very marked, was from sincere
feelings of regard, and not from any fear of his power to injure us.

_April 17th._—Whilst the camels were being loaded this morning, Lohitu
was busily engaged canvassing all my Hy Soumaulee friends, to engage
them on an expedition against the Issah Soumaulee, and Garahmee, Moosa,
and Adam Burrah, consented, after their return from Shoa, to accompany
him. Omah Suis came in high glee, to announce the fact of their adhesion
to the cause of the Debenee having been obtained, and which he was at
great pains to make me understand, was entirely owing to the
overpowering eloquence of his chief. He came, also, to bid me farewell,
as he said he should not see me again, until I returned to his country,
where he assured Allee, who was, as usual, our interpreter, I might
always come with perfect security. When he went away, I put into his
hand two dollars, as his proportion of the sum, I had agreed to give my
escort to accompany me to Shoa. As he received them with many thanks,
nor even attempted to make a claim beyond them, as I expected he would,
I could not let him go, without bestowing upon him the remaining three
dollars, exacting a promise that he would not say a word about the
extraordinary gift to any one, for I could not expect to meet another
moderate man among the generally greedy and rapacious Bedouins, and who,
had they known it, would never have rested until they had received the
same amount. His present of the dates, was worth the three additional
dollars I gave him, for although their real value was not, perhaps, the
third of the sum, the feeling that prompted him, to make a long day’s
journey, to procure them for me, was so gratifying, and so unexpectedly
met with in an Adal savage, that I should not have felt satisfied with
myself, if I had not returned his kindness in some way or other.

We marched for five hours, sometimes west-south-west, but more
frequently south-west, over the extensive undulating plain of
Abiheosoph, continuous with the plain of Ramudalee, and of the same
geological character, a shingly kind of gravel, formed of small angular
fragments of every kind of volcanic rock. As we approached the bank of a
stream, covered with mimosa and other trees, I noticed, that this
gravelly formation had been denuded, into numerous small hills of
uniform height, by the occasionally running waters which fed the stream.
Another remarkable feature, was the protruded ridges of a few feet high
of black cellular lava, and which extended in directions generally due
north and south. A coarse kind of grass, in high and large tufts,
covered this plain, and numerous ant-hills raised their tops some feet
higher than any of the Kafilah men. It was not unusual for one of these
to be made a kind of look-out. Perched upon the summit, some curious
Bedouin, squatting upon his heels, would peer above his shield, looking,
as I thought, something like a bronze Blemmyes upon a conical pedestal.
On the road, we passed the carcase of a recently deceased ox, which had
fallen up to his shoulders, through the frail roof of earth, that
covered the den of a wild boar, and in that miserable situation, unable
to extricate himself, must the animal have hung suspended until dead.

From Abiheosoph we descended, by a gentle declivity, through a grove of
the most powerfully-scented mimosa-trees, from whose high branches,
depended the large drop-like nests, so characteristic of the African
oasis. During our progress, we flushed, from among the roots of long dry
grass, several large coveys of the earth-coloured small desert
partridge; and vast herds of antelopes, disturbed by our approach,
cantered gently away among the thin trunks of the trees, and then
halting, turned round to take a long inquisitive gaze at the intruders.

We soon reached the stream of Gobard, which was flowing nearly due west
into the Lake Abhibhad. Where we crossed over, it was not more than two
feet deep and thirty feet wide, and to ford it I merely took off my
boots, and turned my trowsers up above my knees. We then marched another
hour, upon the beautiful green-sward of this Adal Eden, walking nearly
all the way, under large natural parasols of high mimosa-trees, some
distance intervening between the trunks of each, yet their
widely-spreading tops, encroaching upon each other on every side, formed
one continued grove.

Our halting-place was under the farther bank of the valley of the
Gobard, a steep, stony, water-worn ridge, called San-karl, at the
distant extremity of which, towards the east, a singular pyramidal
monument had been in view nearly the whole day. I was very well content
to lie down, by the side of Lohitu and Ohmed Medina, immediately we
arrived, I was so tired by my long march of six hours, having walked at
least twelve miles, the latter part under a burning sun. In this
situation I soon fell asleep, and did not wake until some time after my
hut was erected. Ohmed Medina, then retiring himself, shook me by the
shoulder, and recommended me not to continue longer under the trees,
beneath the shade of which we had been resting ourselves. He also
promised to come to my hut, and have a long talk with me about the
Hawash, and told me to get out some paper, as he would write a map of
the country for my information. As he spoke, he directed my attention to
the termination of the valley to the west, and concluded by saying,
“Beyond those trees the river ends.”


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                              CHAPTER XII.


Conversation with Ohmed Medina respecting the course of the river
  Hawash.—Description of that river.—Its termination in
  Lake Abhibhad.—The various watersheds of the basin of the
  Hawash.—Comparison of present route with that of previous travellers.


WHEN Ohmed Medina did come, he prepared to stop the whole day, directed
Zaido to boil some coffee, placed his spear upright against the boxes of
my hut, and wheeled his shield very gently up towards the farther end of
my retreat, asking me at the same time to suspend it from the roof by
the little wooden hook that was attached to a leathern thong for this
purpose. He then unbuckled his sword-belt, and after handing it to me
also to take care of, he stooped on to his hands and knees, and crept
well under the shade. I produced my pencil and paper, and we soon
entered into a long conversation upon the Hawash, in which we were
joined by a young man belonging to Owssa, named Ohmedu, who had come
into my hut out of curiosity, but learning what we were about,
volunteered some information respecting his native place. The map
projected between these two was an excellent one, an imbodied transcript
of the clear idea, which both had of the geography of the country we
were in. No confusion or contradiction, but a straightforward
delineation, that carried conviction of its truth by its plain and
consistent simplicity.

A curved line, like a long ʃ, was first drawn in a general direction of
north and south, the curves at each extremity inclining respectively to
the east and west, the former where it partially encircled Owssa, the
latter where, as Ohmed Medina said, in our comparative manner of
talking, “it surrounded Shoa, like a swordbelt round the waist.” The
descending and ascending portions of the Owssa curve were joined by a
straight line, marking the situation of an artificial canal which
connected these two portions of the river, and including within their
limits an isolated tract of country of some extent, which represented
Owssa, and which, for the first time, I now understood to be a large
district rather than a town, as I had always previously considered it to
be, in common with other travellers. Ohmed Medina now drew seven
successive parallel lines, all flowing from the west, which I was given
to understand represented the principal tributary streams, as far as the
northern limits of the kingdom of Shoa, for beyond, or towards the
south, he professed to know nothing, except the general fact of the
river encircling Shoa in that direction.

To these seven streams, which Ohmed Medina drew upon his sketch map,
Ohmedu added a small one, flowing directly from the north, in a line
with the descending portion of the river after it has formed the
northern boundary of Owssa. This was called Gussisson, and on the east,
near its entrance into the Hawash, a small cross was placed by my
informant, to represent the house of his uncle, the Sultaun, as he
styled him, of Owssa.

The next stream to this flowed from the west, and was called the Mellee.
It was succeeded by another still more to the south, called Tahlahlac;
to this followed the Douhee, then the Burkanah, the fifth in order was
the Jahrah, the sixth the Ahsu, and the seventh the Howdee. All these
streams flow from the west, a particularity pointed out to me by Ohmed
Medina, and which was a fact exactly opposite, to that which I had
expected to find, led by the representations of Mr. M‘Queen, in his
“Survey of Africa,” published in 1840.

Ohmed Medina and Ohmedu had crossed every stream they named, either in
their journeys from Owssa to Gondah, or from the former place to Shoa.
One road leads to both these places as far as the Hawash, but from the
ford situated between where the Douhee and the Burkanah streams enter
that river, Kafilahs diverge, some going towards the north, to Gondah,
and others towards the south, to Shoa. This has occasioned the general
name, Abisha, usually applied in the same way in which we say,
Abyssinia, to be modified by the Dankalli, into Abisha Gondah, and
Abisha Shoa, for the purpose of more definitely particularizing
whichever portion of the table-land around the sources of the river Abi
or Bruce’s-Nile, they may allude to in conversation.

During the whole conversation so far, our actual situation at the time,
with respect to the termination of the Hawash, had never been alluded
to. Ohmed Medina, supposing that I had understood him fully when he
said, “Over those trees the river ends,” had not thought it necessary to
repeat the remark, but finished his map by making three lakes, one
larger and two smaller ones, into which the line representing the river
Hawash, was led as to its termination. As I wrote the names down from
their dictation, I was waiting to receive that of the largest lake,
Abhibhad, when a careless movement of the hand over the shoulder, made
by Ohmedu as his companion pronounced the word, intimated that the lake
was in our immediate neighbourhood, and on making the inquiry, I found
that it was not one hour’s journey from where we then were, and that
during our morning’s march, before we descended into the valley of the
Gobard, we had been even much nearer to it. This was a discovery;
especially as I had not heard of any account having been sent either to
England or to India by previous travellers, whilst I knew that at Aden
considerable desire was felt to receive some information respecting the
large city, as it was then supposed to be, of Owssa, and the termination
of the river Hawash. My desire to visit the very shores of the lake, the
waters of which were concealed by the foliage of a dense forest of
mimosa-trees, was, therefore, increased by this opportunity of being
able to add a new fact to our geographical knowledge.

I had but eighty dollars remaining, of the one hundred allowed me by the
Government, for the expenses of the Kafilah on the road, and as I had
not performed one-third of the journey, I could with prudence, offer
only the sum of twenty-five dollars, to Lohitu and Ohmed Medina for an
escort, to traverse the short distance intervening between the camp and
the lake. The latter certainly exerted himself to procure volunteers
among the Debenee who visited us, but after their chief had refused, not
one would undertake even the office of guide; for I insisted that I
would go alone, if a guard could not be procured. Many of the Tajourah
people now came around me, intreating me not to attempt such a thing, as
my death would be the certain consequence, and that ever after “their
faces would be blackened with the commander in Aden,” meaning Captain
Haines, so that in the end I was obliged to submit, for I saw that I
could not help myself. It appears the tract of rich alluvial soil in
this situation, being well watered by its contiguity to the lakes, is
covered with vegetation during the whole year, and is always held by the
strongest tribe; for sometimes, from the necessity occasioned by
long-continued droughts, the tribes occupying less favoured spots are
compelled, to resort here, where they fight most desperately, for the
required relief of food and water for their cattle. I could, therefore,
well understand, that the ever-verdant shores of these lakes, must be
one continued scene of contention. On the occasion of our visit to their
neighbourhood, I found that the Galayla Muditu tribe were in possession,
and at war, of course, with every other. This rendered the appearance of
a few individuals amongst them particularly unsafe, as they killed all
such intruders when discovered; and of a number quite impossible, as
their approach would occasion an immediate alarm throughout the whole
country. Under these circumstances it was deemed our wisest course to
let the sleeping wild beast alone, and not rouse an excitement that
might end in the destruction of the Kafilah.

Every object of science, however, was effected, except the testing and
analysis of the waters of the lakes, for the depression which the
largest occupies in the level table-land surrounding, was plainly
visible through the wide gorge cut by the entrance of the river of
Gobard into it. Our halting-place was actually upon a portion of the
bottom, of what I considered at some periods of the year, to form part
of the then flooded lake, the soil consisting of a light-brown friable
marl, in which were embedded vast numbers of a spiral univalve, exactly
identical with some I had taken, from a thin stratum of a cretaceous
earth, lying beneath the lava in the narrow strip of land, between the
sea at Goobat ul Khhrab and the Salt Lake. I have the authority of Dr.
Roth, the naturalist attached to the British Political Mission, that
living specimens of this fresh water shell have been found in this
neighbourhood; an interesting fact, as it proves that the fossils I
collected between Goobat ul Khhrab and the Salt Lake, and those at
Gobard, are very recent, and that the river Hawash, at some former
period of the earth’s history, entered the sea in the Bay of Tajourah.

Besides the Gobard and Hawash, no other river enters the Abhibhad Lake,
although the extensive plain to the south, as far as the hills of Hurrah
that form the water-shed of the river Whabbee, is drained by a stream,
the waters of which flow close to the western side of this lake, through
Killaloo to the Hawash. This is only during the rains, when this part of
Adal is, I should think, one extensive morass, in which a chain of
shallow lakes, communicating at times with each other, in a direction
bearing to the north and east, forms a river called Waha-ambillee, which
Ohmed Medina said terminated at Killaloo, but Ohmedu contended that it
proceeded into the Hawash, just before that river entered its final
lake, Abhibhad.

The course of the river of Gobard from the east, marks the descent of
the water-shed in that direction, to the lower level of the country
around these lakes. This small river, in length, not more I should think
than thirty miles, flows directly from the east, and its wide bed
constitutes a convenient road to the port of Zeila. In the time of
Abyssinian supremacy over all this part of Africa, the communication
with Gondah and the sea-coast, was through the populous and fertile
oasis of Owssa, along the valley of the Gobard to Zeilah; and tradition
still preserves, the memory of the once lucrative commerce, that was
carried on with the then rich provinces through which the road lay. I
was frequently told by Ohmed Medina, that gold and silks were the
burdens of camels in years gone by, instead of the salt and blue calico,
which is the only merchandise, excepting slaves, of Kafilahs at the
present day.

The Hawash, in its course into Lake Abhibhad, bounds the country of
Owssa on the west, the north, and the east, and the circuit is
completed, by the ascending and descending portions of the river, being
connected on the south, by an artificial canal called Garandurah; thus
completely surrounding Owssa, and contributing considerably to the
proverbial fertility of this Ethiopic oasis. The existence of this
canal, and several subordinate ones for the purposes of irrigation, also
accounts for the representation made in early Portuguese maps, that the
Hawash does not reach the sea, but is diverted from its course, by
numerous canals made by the natives.

Having obtained some idea of the geographical bearings of the watersheds
of the Hawash, by learning the directions of the various streams which
flow towards the centre of its peculiar system, the lakes in sight of
the encampment, I endeavoured to decide our relative position with
regard to the halting-places of previous travellers, as it was only by
subsequent comparison with their observations, more particularly with
those of Lieut. Barker and Dr. Kirk, who surveyed the road taken by the
British Political Mission on its way to Shoa the preceding year, that I
could determine the exact situation of the lake, for from circumstances,
I was unable to make any meridional observations myself. From what I
could then learn, the enterprising and zealous agents of the Church
Missionary Society, the Rev. Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf; the French
traveller M. Rochet de Hericourt, Dr. Beke, and the British Mission, had
all taken a route, one short day’s journey farther to the east than
mine. On the return from Shoa, of Mr. Isenberg, in 1840, that gentleman
may have been brought to my halting-place in the Gobard; for in his
notes I believe is contained the observation, that on that occasion he
took a road much nearer to the lakes than on his previous journey. The
reverse of this occurred to me when I returned from Shoa last year, and
again visited this neighbourhood; for the British Mission, whom I then
accompanied, retraced its former route, and we halted on the very same
spot they had done two years before. This afforded me the opportunity of
fixing my comparisons of situation upon positive data, but I shall not
anticipate the result, as I return to the subject again in relating the
particulars of my second visit to this interesting locality.

A long morning having been occupied in writing, discussing, and viewing,
everything possible relative to the situation of Lake Abhibhad, towards
evening I strolled about in the immediate precincts of the camp,
attended by Lohitu and Ohmed Medina, the former having good sense enough
to think a crumbling bank of the embedded shells would interest me, led
me to a spot where I found in great numbers, the spiral univalve I have
before alluded to. On our return to the camp, I shot one of those small
antelopes to which I believe the Abyssinian traveller, Salt, has given
his name. It was not so large as a hare, but very elegantly formed; the
head light and delicate, with prominent black eyes, and little annulated
straight horns. Its colour was a dunnish or iron grey, the hair rather
coarse, I thought, for so small an animal. I had not quite killed it,
and Lohitu ran up, but afraid of injuring his spear by missing his aim,
and striking only the ground, he kept shaking it in mid-air, as if going
to dart it at the poor thing, every time, that with a broken leap, it
attempted to escape. Moosa and Adam Burrah, followed by a crowd of
others, came running up on hearing Ohmed Medina shout for the latter,
who being a very zealous sportsman, I had constituted my head forrester
on occasions of the chase. The trivial cause for so much stir excited a
loud laugh, and two or three of the boys rushing in soon secured the
dying animal, over which a timely “Ul Allah” was said, and so sanctified
it for food.


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                             CHAPTER XIII.


Leave Gobard for Arabderah.—View of Lake Abhibhad from the ridge of
  San-karl.—General direction of march south, time occupied two and
  a-half hours.—March to Saggagahdah, general direction S.W., time
  marching an hour and a-half.—Meet Kafilah of Mahomed Allee.—Halt for
  the night.


_April 18th._—We were on our march again by sunrise, Lohitu accompanying
the party of the non-interested in the care of the camels, and who
generally preceded them half an hour. Of this party, Ohmed Medina had
assumed the leadership from the first day of his having joined, and I
took care always to accompany him. We made a short bend towards the
south, along a narrow water-cut channel, dark from the trees on every
side closing their tops over our heads, and then ascended diagonally the
steep, loose, stony face of the ridge of San-karl, forming the southern
bank of the valley of Gobard. Having reached the top, Lohitu stopped
suddenly to inform me that this height was the general place of assembly
for all the tribes of the Dankalli, when combined in some military
operation, against the Issah Soumaulee to the east, or the Assa-hemerah
Muditu to the west. We were continuing our journey along the plain on
the summit of this ridge, when the loud voice of Ohmed Mahomed calling
after us, caused us to stop until he came up. On his near approach, he
turned round, and with his hand directed my attention to a division very
visible in the flat country to the north-west, which marked the course
of the stream of the Hawash, and the valley of which, seemed to be not
more extensive than that formed by the stream of the Gobard. I was,
however, informed, that it was really much more extensive, and that an
immense number of Bedouins inhabited the fertile district on each side
of the river, for nearly two days’ journey before it bends round to the
north of Owssa.

The precipitous termination of the flat country to the west of the Lake
Abhibhad, was also very plainly seen over the tree-covered expanse, that
marked the entrance of the Gobard, into that general recipient of the
waters of Adal. A prominent feature of the scene also, on the opposite
bank, of this stream, and to the immediate north-east of the lake, was
the ridge of yellow gravelly soil, divided into numerous small denuded
hills, that I passed along the morning before. On the south and west,
the surrounding country was one wide stony plain, through which
protruded numerous low dykes of lava, and at the distance of about
twenty miles could be observed the summit of a single cone, called Jibel
Obinoe, whilst in the opposite direction, towards Zeila and Tajourah,
were a range of peaked hills, that formed the barrier between the Hawash
and the sea, and the western face of which formed the water-shed of the
Gobard river, flowing into Lake Abhibhad.

From the appearance and general character of the surrounding country, I
concluded that the Abhibhad Lake occupied one of those numerous and
extensive depressions, which, like large fissures, here intersect the
otherwise level country of Adal, many of which are now filled up with
the detritus of the ridges around, and the marly deposition from water,
which, during the rains, collects in them. These fissures are in
variable magnetic directions, but they never cross each other, and I saw
evidence sufficient to satisfy myself, that at least in this
neighbourhood, they form rays diverging from one common centre, which is
very well marked by the severed summit of Obinoe.

After satisfying my curiosity with the excellent view of the country
afforded by my situation, we proceeded on our journey. We soon descended
into the bed of a small stream running into the Gobard, along the bottom
of which the heavily-laden camels were now slowly winding their way,
among numerous sweetly-smelling, white-blossomed mimosas, which scented
the whole valley, and afforded a delicious banquet to the busy
inhabitants of a natural bee-hive, so situated that to all honey-eating
animals, save man, it was inaccessible. It occupied a small cave on the
steep face of one of the precipitous cliffs which bounded the stream. In
this narrow valley we passed several watering-places, where I would
gladly have drank, but that every pool was occupied by two or three
dirty Dankalli, who were busily washing and bathing themselves in the
cool and refreshing water. No observation was made by our party at this
pollution, for as there was here an extensive supply, my companions
thought there was as much room for them, as for the numerous camels
which now came up, and made their way into it, not so much to satisfy
thirst, as to enjoy the walk through the water, and which they soon
rendered a very thick solution of mud. This, however, was not
undrinkable, as I found when, after a tiresome march over the
stone-covered plain of Arabderah for at least three hours, we came to
our halting-ground, and found all the pools dried up, so that the few
skins which had been filled at Gobard and at this place were our only
supply for the day, and for the first time during the journey, was I put
upon an allowance of one saucepanful, which I had to divide with a
number of thirsty companions.

During this march I became great friends with the Debenee Chief. Upon my
giving a small paper packet, containing needles, to one of the Bedouins,
in exchange for a dried goat-skin, Zaido asked me to purchase, to place
under the saddle of my mule, Lohitu took the packet from the man, and
opening it, looked at me with surprise for having paid such a great
price for my bargain. After saying a few words to the man, he only gave
him three of the needles, and distributed what remained, by giving one
each to the rest of the party, about a dozen being around us at the
time. He kept three himself, placing them in the sheath of his very old
and worthless dagger, among the ornaments of which, I noticed an old
rusty pair of scissors, which he had thrust in between the thongs that
secured it to his belt.

Lohitu was a very handsome man, with a high, noble forehead, well-formed
nose and mouth, and but for a heavy look, occasioned by his thick, bushy
eyebrows, would have realized my idea of a savage chief with whom I
could have associated, honour and generosity; and even with the
prejudice against the Bedouins I entertained, occasioned by the
evidences of their sanguinary and deceitful character, which had come
under my own notice, I still could only think well of this generally
acknowledged brave and respected man, who was, without any qualification
or jealousy of his excellence whatever, admitted to be the first man of
all the combined tribes. Heaven only knows, how much blood it had been
necessary to shed to produce this unanimity, but the tale of his having
saved the life of the only Muditu who was spared in a recent engagement,
was the solitary instance of the sort I ever heard of; for on occasions
of their warfare, every conquered man, who is not able to save himself
by flight, is most ruthlessly massacred by the victors, on purpose to
add to the boasted numbers of slain, the grand total of which,
constitute the only claim to individual eminence among the Dankalli
tribes.

On the march to-day I gave Lohitu a ring, which I had put on my finger
the first morning after our arrival at Ramudalee, for the purpose of
presenting to this noted chieftain. It consisted of one large red
cornelian, which had been cut by an Indian mechanic in Calcutta, where I
purchased it, into a thick, showy ring, one well suited to the taste of
such people of eminence among the savage tribes with whom I was now
sojourning. Lohitu was exceedingly pleased with it, and wore it for that
day, but whether he was really superior to the common feeling in such
matters of adornment, or preferred the convenience of a little cash
which Ohmed Mahomed offered to him for it, I do not know; but I heard
after he had left us, that Ohmed Mahomed had the ring in his possession,
and that he had given to Lohitu in exchange for it four dollars, or
eight cubits of the blue Surat cloth. This latter is the only money
current in Adal, one cubit in length of this Surat cloth, the full width
of the piece, being in value half a dollar. It is neatly folded into a
three-cornered packet, and the outer extremity is tucked into the
middle, in such a manner as to secure the whole in that form.

Our halting-place was bare of everything but large flat stones of lava,
that had evidently formed originally one thin but entire stratum, which,
on exposure to the atmosphere, had separated into loose stones. These
had become partially rounded at the edges, by continual denudation of
wind and water, assisted by the alternation of heat and cold, arising
from the different temperature of the several winds, which traverse this
height, from the hot sandy plains of Zeila to the east, or the cooler
surface of Lake Abhibhad to the west.

The curiously divided summit of Jibel Obinoe, a slight elevation above
the generally very level table-land, was now visible in the south-west,
and the hills which at Gobard bore towards the north, were now
considerably more towards the north-east. The scene otherwise was
similar to the one from San-karl, consisting of dark yellow plains, with
black ridges of lava breaking through the surface, and no vegetation,
except the dry unyielding grass, and a small prickly plant with blue
flowers, which was the only food for the camels, this arid and stony
country had to offer.

No Bedouins disturbed us here, nor was my evening’s meal of tasteless
rice improved by presents of milk, and in desperation at such poor fare,
I determined to have recourse to my cheese and sea-biscuit, upon which,
after some time and difficulty, I managed to make my supper. Zaido and
Allee joined me in this as in more tempting viands, and found some
amusement in the excessive hardness of the biscuit, actually fracturing
a long and dry leg-bone of a camel, plenty of which always marked the
usual caravan halting-places, by employing it as a geological hammer to
break what they called my “stone bread.”

A council was held during the whole day, a busy subject of discussion
having apparently arisen, and I soon found, by Allee’s information, that
a Kafilah of no friendly character was approaching, and that probably we
should meet it to-morrow. As it was exceedingly strong, and its Ras had
been very ill-treated and imprisoned when last in Tajourah, the leaders
of our Kafilah were anxiously deliberating upon the probable
consequences of a meeting, and were very earnest, I could see, in their
endeavours to secure Lohitu to their cause. Ohmed Mahomed also in the
evening came to see me, and asked if I would give Lohitu five dollars,
to get some boxes belonging to the Embassy, that he asserted were
detained in a neighbouring kraal. What with the information I had
received from Allee, that the Ras of the Kafilah coming down was the
Mahomed Allee who had taken the stores with Messrs. Bernatz and Scott to
join the Political Mission in Shoa, and being aware also of the
treatment, that division of the Embassy received in Tajourah, three of
the servants being murdered in one night, I knew very well that the
object of Ohmed Mahomed’s request for money, was not to get the boxes,
but to bribe Lohitu to declare himself our friend, and reject
accordingly any offer of the same kind that might be made by Mahomed
Allee, who, it was expected, would take this opportunity of retaliating.
I, of course, consented, and this being accomplished, Ohmed Mahomed, to
ingratiate himself also with the attendants of Lohitu, had a camel, that
had been ailing many days, slaughtered, and a feast of raw meat, for
want of water to cook it in, terminated the day. One party of the
revellers who sat near my hut, I observed rolling up strips of the
flesh, and stowing them away in their affaleetahs for a feast at the
next halting-place, as the Dankalli certainly prefer the flesh of
animals cooked, excepting the liver and other viscera, which are almost
always eaten raw. This same party had also come in for the backbone in
their share, and after the fleshy parts had been stript off and
preserved for a better opportunity of cooking, the assembled circle very
fairly, and with much brotherly love, sent the raw juicy bone round,
each one taking a fair chop at it with his heavy dagger, and then making
a good strong pull at the almost detached piece with his teeth. In this
manner they soon cleared and divided the bone, and each one then
possessed himself of a single vertebra to look over, and finish his
repast, which did not conclude until every bit of the cartilage had been
torn off and eaten.

_Tuesday, April 19._—Started at sunrise, and left Arabderah with Lohitu,
Moosa, Adam Burrah, and a number of others. Ohmed Medina and Garahmee
were absent, having returned to Gobard in search of the mule belonging
to the former, which had strayed during the night. The western portion
of the plain of Arabderah is much less stony than the eastern, and the
ground was covered with little shallow depressions of dried clay, the
residium of evaporated water. The country of Owssa is visible from that
point, where we leave the elevated plateau, and descend into the
valley-plain to the south. The prolongation of the height of Arabderah
towards the north-west is called Dulhull, and forms the southern border
of the Abhibhad Lake.

This morning I rode upon my mule, as my boots were getting much the
worse, for walking over the rough and stony road we had travelled along.
Lohitu was very reserved, walking nearly all the way by my side without
speaking a word, except in answer to me, when I sought to know the names
of different places we passed. However, on the other side of me there
was plenty of noise, for the Bedouins who accompanied us were walking in
two lines of five or six in a row, and amusing themselves with singing
alternately extempore stanzas, in which my name, “Ahkeem,” and that of
Lohitu very frequently occurred. One or two of them occasionally, broke
out of the line to touch my knee with the butt-end of their spears, when
they wished me to listen, more particularly to something or other that
related to myself, and that I might be aware that what they were saying
was a compliment. Simple-minded people! to what excellence might not
education raise them! Their great natural abilities, now only developed
in the commission of crime, if only properly cultivated, would, I am
convinced, lead to a national character as extreme for good as it now
is, unfortunately, for evil.

We thus marched for about two hours, having descended, almost
immediately after the start, a rough, stony, but gentle declivity from
the lava-strewn plateau of Arabderah, to the wide and extensive
fissure-plain of Sagagahdah. We were now suddenly halted by a gesture of
Lohitu, who pointed with his spear into the mirage, that seemed to fill
with water the whole upper or western end of the plain, on the edge of
which, but on the distant opposite side, we could see two horsemen
coming at full speed towards us. We had stood but a very few minutes,
when Ebin Izaak, on his mule, came gallopping up, and calling to me, as
I thought, to follow him, passed us as fast as he could go in the
direction to meet the new comers. Just as I was pushing my slow mule
into an attempt to gallop, Ohmed Mahomed, who came running up, called
out to me to remain, and, as I did not exactly understand him, Lohitu
caught hold of my bridle and made signs for me to dismount. I soon
learnt that our halting-place for the day had been determined upon,
immediately the approaching Kafilah had come into sight, and already, a
little in the rear, our camels were being unloaded.


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                              CHAPTER XIV.


Description of the plain of Sagagahdah.—Dowaleeka Lake.—Effects of
  mirage.—Slave Kafilah.—Write letters to Aden.—Retire from camp with
  Lohitu.—Interview with Mahomed Allee.


THE plain of Sagagahdah is of considerable extent. It stretches in one
straight line from the country of the Issah Soumaulee, in the
south-east, to Jibel Obinoe, in the north-west, a distance of more than
thirty miles, with a uniform width of between five and six miles. The
sides are flat-topped parallel ridges, from four to five hundred feet
high, being the abrupt termination of elevated volcanic plateaus. That
to the north is called Dulhull, and separates the plain of Sagagahdah
from the one of a somewhat similar character, occupied by the Lake
Abhibhad. The ridge to the south is called Mahree. During the season of
the greatest rains, the plain of Sagagahdah is a complete morass, or
shallow lake, collecting the waters that flow over the Dulhull and
Mahree ridges. These numerous little streams seem constantly to be
forming new channels, for but a few yards from a deeply-cut and
apparently very convenient watercourse, the traveller sometimes
observes, the torrent rushing down a precipitous and evidently a very
recent one. This interesting geological phenomenon is to be attributed
to the occurrence of frequent earthquakes in this situation, which have
the effect of altering the previous level of the country. Another
striking evidence of this was pointed out to me by Ohmed Medina, whose
naturally inquiring mind, led him to ask of me a solution of that which
to him and to others also who mentioned it, was a very remarkable
circumstance. A large lake, it appeared, had come into existence within
the last six years, in an adjoining plain, called Dowaleeka, similar to
the one of Sagagahdah, and a constant sheet of water which abounded in
leeches now occupied its upper end, where previously a regular Kafilah
route had existed to Shoa.

The sides of these fissured plains, I think, at a certain depth, must
meet in a synclinal axis; but time has nearly filled the valley between,
to their present level, with the detritus of the rocks around, and the
marly deposition from the evaporated water, collected in them during the
season of the rains. In the plain of Lukhee, a day’s journey more to the
west, this operation of filling up has proceeded, even to the forming of
one general level of the country, and the alluvial soil of the former
valley is now continuous, with the stony summits of the bounding ridges.

Coming from the opposite side, diagonally across to our station, could
be now seen the stranger Kafilah, camel after camel, emerging from the
mirage in a long-extended line. The effect of this natural phenomenon,
the mirage, was greater than I expected. The very perfect and natural
resemblance it bears to water, the reflection even of the adjoining
ridges as perfectly distinct as from the surface of a lake, contributing
very much to the illusion. To ascribe to any traveller the originality
of the beautiful expression, “ships of the desert,” as applied to that
useful animal the camel, is an injustice to the simple elegance of
natural ideas. Not one, but half a dozen of the Bedouins, came to me in
succession, and directed my attention to the broad and enlarged figure
of the camel with its burden, as it appeared through the medium of the
mirage, and all expressed themselves exactly in the same terms, that it
was the ship of their country, and any one who has seen the camel in
such a situation would have immediately suggested to his mind, a distant
vessel sailing end on before a breeze, with all its studding sails set,
so exact a resemblance is observed between it and the distorted image of
the laden camel.

The merry sound of the laughing, chatting, singing, infant children, who
formed the bulk of a Kafilah of at least two hundred slaves, now
gradually reached us, increasing, as they approached, into the buzzing
hubbub of a crowd of people, who at length passed us, and halted for the
day, at the distance of about half a mile from our camp, eastward.

The people of both Kafilahs soon mixed with each other with the best
feeling imaginable, interchanging salutes and repeating to each other
the most important news from their respective starting-places. The
new-comers had been thirty-eight days from Shoa, and at a day’s journey
on this side of the Hawash, had been attacked by the Hittoo Galla, who
had killed two of the Kafilah men, and seven of the smallest children of
the slaves, for these unfortunates are always murdered, if their captors
in such forays find it impossible, as in this instance, to carry them
away. Several of the Galla were also slain. News of the British Embassy
I could not obtain, except that the last detachment of stores had got
safely up, and that the Ras ul Kafilah on that occasion, Mahomed Allee,
was now at the head of the present return one. I was also told that
forty of the slaves belonged to him, and that they had been given to him
by our Ambassador in Shoa. Such was the report, but of course I
understood this properly, that the money Mahomed Allee had received for
his services he had laid out in the purchase of slaves, in the like
manner that Ohmed Mahomed and Ebin Izaak, were taking up with me to
Shoa, the dollars paid to them in Tajourah by Mr. Cruttenden, to invest
in the same revolting merchandise.

The principal men of either Kafilah were now sitting in two adjoining
circles, whilst Lohitu sat apart with a stranger who had joined us from
a direction exactly opposite to that in which the new arrivals had come.
As they sat within a few yards of me, I perceived that he bore on his
breast the “Arriah,” or incised figure of the Debenee tribe; and I
concluded, therefore, he was some member of the family of the Chief;
Zaido, however, who had a very acute eye to perceive any threatened or
rather suspected danger, whispered to me, as he pushed my breakfast of
rice into my hut, that an Issah Soumaulee was talking to Lohitu. As I
could not understand how it happened that one of this hated tribe dare
venture alone among the Debenee, I set the man down to be a half-blood,
which would also account for his being marked with the peculiar symbol
of that tribe.

These two were soon joined by a third, another stranger to me, who came
from the calahm circle of the Shoa Kafilah, and brought with him a small
coil of brass wire, weighing, perhaps, one ounce or so, which Lohitu
received in his usual silent manner, and deposited beneath his tobe. I
had promised Mr. Cruttenden to write to Aden by every opportunity, and
as I considered this an admirable one, from the previous connexion of
Mahomed Allee with the English, I sent to Ohmed Mahomed to request that
he would bring him to me, that besides the letter I intended to send, I
might also give him some verbal message to Capt. Haines or Mr.
Cruttenden. Ohmed Mahomed immediately appeared, but refused to let
Mahomed Allee come to receive the letter, adding, that the latter would
not be allowed to take it to Aden, even if I gave it to him, as the
Sultaun of Tajourah would not permit him to enter that town. As,
however, I persisted in my desire to employ Mahomed Allee, whom I knew
to be well thought of by the authorities in Aden, Ohmed Mahomed at
length consented to bring him, and went away for that purpose. In about
half an hour he returned, and having introduced Mahomed Allee to me, I
gave him my letters for Capt. Haines, and one for home, informing him
that on their delivery in Aden he would receive a boxeish or present, as
usual, for his trouble.

After concluding this business to my satisfaction, I went with Lohitu,
at the request of Ohmed Mahomed, some distance from the camp, and we sat
down amidst the ruins of some loose stone walls, where formerly a large
kraal had been. This move was suggested, I thought, by a desire to save
me from the pestering applications of the Bedouins of Mahomed Allee’s
Kafilah, who had previously surrounded my hut in crowds, begging for
everything that could enter into the mind of a Dankalli as constituting
riches, such as needles, buttons, paper, gunpowder, and brass wire.

For two hours did the mighty Chief of the Debenee and I sit in gloomy
silence, both building little walls and pyramids of the loose stones
that lay within our reach, until we had cleared the whole neighbourhood
of all but the larger ones. As I now got rather tired of my occupation,
I made one or two attempts to get up, as hints to my companion that we
should be going. Each time, however, he laid hold of my Arab frock, and
pointing again to my place, he intimated that I was in his charge, and
that until the sun was down I must stay with him. Being particularly
quiet when I cannot help myself, I made a virtue of necessity, and took
up my old position, and for occupation proposed to fix around the head
of Lohitu’s spear, the brass wire which I had seen given to him in the
morning. By the time that business was completed to the satisfaction of
the Chief, who in return gave me a whip made of the hide of the
hippopotamus, the sun had set, and we returned to the camp; I retiring
to my hut, and Lohitu to a group of Tajourah people, with whom he soon
squatted in an earnest calahm.

No sooner had I taken my seat and called to Zaido about getting me some
supper, than a fierce-looking stranger forced aside the mat, which
depending from the roof of the hut, overhung the entrance. My usual
exclamation of “Cutta,” “Cutta,” Go away, Go away, on such occasions of
intrusion, was unheeded, and without any ceremony, and quite undeterred
by the pistol I had already seized, the man took his seat on my mat, and
putting his hands to his breast, with a kind of salutation and a smile
of introduction, said, “Mahomed Allee,” and then in Arabic asked me if I
had no letters to send down to the Commander at Aden, for by that name
is Capt. Haines generally known among the Dankalli merchants. Zaido at
this moment making his appearance, I appealed to him, if this were
Mahomed Allee, and Zaido, who looked anything but comfortable,
reluctantly admitted that it was, stammering out at the same time, that
“Mahomed Allee had better go away.” The latter, however, did not
understand this, but laughed most sneeringly, as he said, “Cutta,” with
a contemptuous wave of the hand, that made Zaido back expeditiously out
of the hut, carrying on his shoulders the hanging door mat.

Being determined not to allow myself to be so imposed upon as I had
evidently been by Ohmed Mahomed, I tore a leaf out of my note-book,
having exhausted all the paper I had taken out in the morning, except
that on which I wrote my letters, in presents to the begging Bedouins.
Upon the abstracted leaf I wrote a hasty note, telling Capt. Haines of
the deception practised upon me, and recommending that no present should
be given to the counterfeit Mahomed Allee, as a punishment for his
impudence. This being made up into a note, was carefully deposited by
Mahomed Allee, between the double fold of ox-skin which formed the
scabbard of his knife, and which is made a convenient receptacle by the
Dankalli, for many trifling articles, such as needles, snuff, or thread.
Mahomed Allee now informed me, that he had got letters to Aden from the
Political Mission in Shoa, and also desired me to write down in my
note-book the name of a kraal, where were deposited seventeen packages
and boxes, he had been obliged to leave on the road, when in charge of
the last English Kafilah that had gone up to Shoa. He attributed this
abandonment to the numbers of his camels that had died upon the march
from the scarcity of water. He also said that no difficulty would be
incurred, for the Bedouin who had them in charge, was a relation of his
own, and would himself take them along with the present Kafilah to Shoa.
After this Mahomed Allee retired, asking me only for a handful of
tobacco, which I bade Zaido to give him, but was afterwards obliged to
increase the niggardly bestowal of my servant, by taking the skin bag
from him, and shaking its contents into the open tobe of my new
acquaintance.

I should not have slept well that night, if I had not told Ohmed Mahomed
of the deception he had practised upon me, and as he came to my hut a
few moments after Mahomed Allee had left, I took care to mention it. He
excused himself very coolly by saying, that Lohitu had promised to cut
the throat of Mahomed Allee, before he reached Gobard, suiting the
action to the word, by sawing away at his own throat with the edge of
his open hand, and adding, “that then all the letters given to him by
the Embassy in Shoa, would be taken from him and carried to Aden by
Mahomed Murkee,” the man whom he had passed upon me, for Mahomed Allee.
It was certainly not very agreeable, to be thus made the confidant of an
intended murder, especially when the victim was a man I was inclined to
think well of, not judging from the little I had seen of him myself, but
from the recommendations he had received from the missionaries, Messrs.
Isenberg and Krapf, whom he took up on their first visit to Shoa, and
also from the commendations I had heard bestowed upon him by Mr.
Cruttenden in Tajourah. I determined therefore that, at all risks, I
would exonerate myself from becoming an accomplice before the fact,
should the assassination take place, by revealing the whole design to
Mahomed Allee, and also exert my influence with Lohitu to procure for
him a safe passage through the country of the Debenee. It was too late
to do anything this night, although Mahomed Allee and his friends were
still squatting, a very few yards in front of my hut. Fearing, however,
that some attempt was about to be made upon the party by the friends of
Ohmed Mahomed, who were also gathering into a calahm, I was obliged to
call out to him to go away, which I did, in a tone that he understood
very well to be intended as a warning; and he and his three or four
friends accordingly got up, and retired to their own Kafilah.

During the afternoon of to-day, whilst I sat with Lohitu at the ruined
kraal, I could not help observing the innocent curiosity, not unmixed
with fear, with which the little slave-girls came to have a peep at me.
Lohitu himself could not resist smiling, at the occasional hasty retreat
of those who happened to come near me, before they were aware of their
situation. They were employed in collecting for fuel, dried camel’s
dung, and the little rotten sticks that had floated with the last rains
into the plain. Their ages varied from eight to fourteen years. I saw no
slaves in this Kafilah who exceeded those years, and I was given to
understand that most of them were Gurague Christians. A few boys were
also to be seen amongst them who ran stark naked; or else with only a
bit of old ragged cloth, tied by the two ends under the chin, and
hanging behind upon their neck and shoulders. The girls wore a chemise
of the same dirty description, gathered around the waist by a piece of
plaited or twisted palm-leaf rope. They were, without exception, most
interesting and sharp-looking little things, and did not appear to be
fatigued by their long journey, or ill-used by their masters. The
necessities of a licentious religion is pandered to by the slave-trade
carried on between the sea-coast and the interior of Africa; and no
greater blow could be struck at Mahomedanism than by putting an end to
this anti-human traffic.


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                              CHAPTER XV.


Journey from Sagagahdah to Mokoito, general direction W.S.W., time
  marching four hours.—Meet old friends.—Conversation upon origin of the
  Dankalli people.—Journey from Mokoito to Ahmahguloff, general
  direction W.N.W., time marching three hours.—Description of
  halting-place.


_April 20th._—On getting ready to start this morning, I found all had
been arranged for the immediate return of Lohitu, evidently, as had been
intimated by Ohmed Mahomed, for the purpose of interfering with the
peaceable progress of the Kafilah of Mahomed Allee through the country
of the Debenee. The latter, fortunately, came up to bid me farewell, as
I was superintending the saddling of my mule. He had taken the
precaution to bring with him a number of his friends. I took the
opportunity of a single moment when I saw that I was not watched, to say
to him one word, “Lohitu!” at the same time drawing my hand across my
throat, with a look that sufficiently told him the whole conspiracy. His
reply was merely the same word, “Lohitu?” as if to ask me if I were
quite sure; and taking my nod in the proper sense, he shook hands with
me, English fashion, saying, “Tihebe,” (good) and away he hurried with
his friends, who, if they were as brave as himself, would, with the
others of his Kafilah to aid them, I had no doubt, prove more than a
match for even the daring Lohitu and his numerous tribe.

Having mounted my mule, I rode up to Lohitu, and taking out my only
remaining spoon, which I knew he coveted, I gave it to him, with two
dollars I had ready for the purpose. As I presented them I pointed to
Mahomed Allee, mentioning his name, and putting my hand to my breast,
said, in the Dankalli language, “Occo,” (friend). Lohitu, with the quick
perception characteristic of the whole nation, comprehended me at once,
and receiving my present, put his hand to his breast in the same manner
he had seen me do, and repeated the same word, “Occo,” in a tone of
sincerity that at once removed my fears for Mahomed Allee. The pleasure
I felt in consequence, at having thus frustrated the infamous design of
my Tajourah friends, who stood scowling by, enabled me to return with
interest their looks of disdain, as I rode alone for above an hour
afterwards, before any of them chose to come up and speak to me. At last
Ebin Izaak trotted his mule up to my side, and after riding a little
time in silence, produced from beneath his shield, which hung as usual
over the left knee from the bow of his saddle, the three bones of a leg
of a sheep, united by the ligaments of the joint, and with scarcely any
meat upon them. Pushing one extremity of the continuous bones towards
me, he said very abruptly, “Yarcul” (eat). I could not help smiling at
the scanty appearance of the repast, but immediately assented to the
proposal, and catching hold of my end, we began twisting and pulling to
separate the bones, till at last when they did go, and I got possession
of the thigh bone for my share, both of us nearly lurched over on
opposite sides of our mules, and we had each to grip fast hold of the
mane, with the hand that was at liberty, to retain our seats in the
saddle. What little meat was on the bones was soon stript off with our
teeth, during which time Ebin Izaak accounted for his possession of the
treat, no sheep having been killed in our Kafilah, by saying that it was
the generous gift of some valued friend, belonging to the Kafilah of
Mahomed Allee.

Our road lay along a smooth level plain of yellow marl, cracked in every
direction by the baking heat of the sun, whilst the mirage before us
mocked the dryness of the soil, by the affectation of the appearance of
nature’s most refreshing gift, either to animals or to the equally
thirsty earth.

The distortion of all objects that could be perceived in the mirage was
very remarkable; small stones became huge rocks, and thin tufts of grass
assumed the figure of ostriches; and I was taken in most certainly, much
to the amusement of Ebin Izaak, who told me as I went after them that
they were nothing but grass; yet so distinct was the appearance, and so
natural the motion given to their well-defined image by the flickering
of the vapour, that I did not hesitate to go in pursuit, feeling
convinced that he must be mistaken.

Izaak, after stripping everything eatable off the bones, very carefully
deposited them again in the hollow of his shield, observing, at the same
time, they would do for a boxeish for some of the camel-drivers. We now
proceeded in very friendly conversation, respecting the likelihood of a
marriage taking place between my Queen and Salie Selasse, the King of
Shoa, which some of the wiser people of Tajourah could alone surmise, as
the probable cause of the numerous valuable presents, which had been
sent up to that monarch. Whilst I was endeavouring to explain the
impossibility of such a thing, and turning in my mind to what reasonable
object I could attribute our present intercourse with Shoa, we were
suddenly hailed by a voice I knew, and looking in the direction from
whence it proceeded, saw before us, in a low jungle, the slave-boy of
Ohmed Mahomed, who was evidently on the watch for our approach.

At his request we dismounted, and leaving the mules in his charge, we
pushed aside the strong thorny boughs of myrrh and young mimosa-trees,
and made our way to the edge of a small stream that crept along, shaded
from the sun by the grateful bushes it nourished. Here, in a natural
arbour, we found fast asleep our two friends, Ohmed Medina and Garahmee,
each with his tobe wrapped closely around the body, and also covering
the head, which was supported upon a small wooden pillow. Their spears
lay upon the ground close to their right hands, and their shields were
suspended amidst the bending boughs of the rude bower, which concealed
them from the observation of any passing native. The boy, as I supposed,
had been posted to watch for our arrival.

The noise we made awakened Garahmee, who, after the usual lengthened
salutations, gave Ebin Izaak an account of their journey to Owssa, from
whence it appeared they had travelled during the last night, having
arrived where we found them some hours before us. Others of the Kafilah
now joining us, Ohmed Medina was roused from his slumbers. Finding
Lohitu not accompanying us, I could hear him making some inquiries
respecting that chief; and not being satisfied with the information he
obtained, as soon as he had arranged his dress, he entered into
conversation with me, wanting to know what present I had given to
Lohitu, and if I were pleased with him. He then directed my attention to
a new shield he had, and which he told me had been given to him by the
generous Chief, whose many excellent qualities were now his theme for
some time. Among other things, he said, improving upon the idea of Ebin
Izaak respecting the Queen and Salie Selasse, that the best thing she
could do was to marry Lohitu; and the English, and the Dankalli would
then be one people. I smiled at the honour so seriously intended, but I
laughed outright, when Ohmed Medina, pointing to the slave-boy, to whom
Ebin Izaak as a mark of favour had given the two bones, asked me if my
lady Queen smoked like that. Only imagine a thin bushy-headed black,
whose entire dress consisted of a narrow strip of dirty cloth thrown
across the shoulders, sitting apart, that he might not be importuned to
share with others, the luxury he was indulging in. His pipe, the long
shank bone of a leg of mutton, having the smaller end broken off with a
stone, whilst the broader extremity was bruised into a concavity, that
admitted a small portion of tobacco to be lodged in its cellular
structure. Through this novel meerschaum was the fragrant weed being
inhaled, and to the appearance of this party I was referred in order to
understand fully the question, “Does your Queen smoke like that?” said
in a manner, too, that intimated such an accomplishment on her part
would be a great recommendation to the Dankalli, in case of the wedding.
I was obliged to say she did not, and looked as if I thought the
country, hardly worth the trouble of learning to smoke out of a
sheepshank, on purpose to obtain possession of it. Observing, or
suspecting this, Ohmed Medina rather sharply closed the conversation, by
remarking, “Ah, I see, she does not want a country of stones like this.”

The Kafilah halted for the day close under the southern bank of the
plain, a precipitous cliff of an easily disintegrated volcanic stone,
the debris of which, from detached rocks of several tons weight to small
angular fragments, were strewed along its base some distance into the
plain. A little stream was the chief agent of denudation; in a very
serpentine course, it flowed towards the other side, each bank fringed
with dwarf shrubs, and its crystal waters set in a bright enamel of a
most delicate kind of grass, which, like a bed of green soft moss,
extended along its borders. It burst through a narrow and very recently
formed channel from the lava-strewn plateau of Mahree above, and in the
rear of our camp passed with a rushing impetuosity, which gradually
decreased into the gentlest ripple, as it flowed over its pebbly bed
near to the spot where, on our first arrival, we found our friends Ohmed
Medina and Garahmee.

Here, among the thick bushes, I took up my residence for the day,
surrounded by the Hy Soumaulee, whose heavy war-knives I had undertaken
to improve in outward appearance, by fixing a bright dress naval button
into a hollow piece of brass, usually placed as an ornament upon the end
of the scabbard, but which, without the button to cover the otherwise
bare extremity, presented an appearance that was not satisfactory to my
educated _Birmingham_ ideas of what constituted elegance. When I pointed
out the defect, and suggested the improvement, it was surprising to
observe the numbers who applied for the decoration. The order of the
button, in fact, became quite the rage, and it was not until it had
become very general indeed, that I lost the popularity which its first
establishment had occasioned. Like knighthood, to have been respected,
it ought to have been kept select, and the braves alone should have been
thus rewarded; but when, moved by selfish considerations, I bestowed it
upon Zaido, whose cowardice was the laugh of the whole Kafilah, I found
the moral of my influence gone, and the previously much-prized button
became valued only as an article of commerce. But the mean in spirit
have no idea of personal distinction, as I confessed to myself when I
heard, that Zaido had sold honour’s bright badge, for a small bag of
tobacco.

The halting-place was called Dulhull, although I found afterwards that
this, properly speaking, was the name of the ridge to the north, which
alone separated us from the Lake Abhibhad. From one informant I received
the name Mokoito as that of the plain, and the ridge under which our
encampment lay was still called Mahree.

Ohmed Medina had so much to tell the chief people of the Kafilah, about
the business which had taken him to Owssa, that I did not have much of
his conversation during the day, or any opportunity of taking him to
task, for giving me the slip at Arabderah, for I now perceived, that
what I heard in that place of him and Garahmee returning to Gobard, was
a fiction of convenience, to avoid any importunity on my part to
accompany them. Ohmed Mahomed, in a better humour than I expected, after
my morning’s speech to Lohitu in favour of Mahomed Allee, came and sat
with me an hour or two, endeavouring to convince me that he had done
everything for the best, and that Mahomed Allee was a great scoundrel.
He also attempted to give me some information respecting Owssa and
Hurrah, the latter being a celebrated city, once the capital of the
large kingdom of Adea, situated about four days’ journey directly to the
south. Owssa, also, it should have been observed before, was formerly
the seat of the Government of the kingdom of Adal, but for the last
three centuries, these former Amahra or Abyssinian monarchical divisions
of the country of Adgem, Adea, and Adal, have given way to the more
numerous subdivisions required by the system of patriarchal authority,
which alone is recognised among the present barbarous Dankalli
occupants. Ohmed Mahomed failed to enlighten me, on the subject of the
relative geographical position, of these still important emporiums of
the produce of this country, for unfortunately he did not possess, like
Ohmed Medina, that generalizing talent of taking, as it were, a
bird’s-eye view of the intervening country in his mind, and then
depicting a transcript readily upon the sand, to convey at once a
correct idea of the whole to a stranger.

Towards evening, all who had been, during the heat of the day, basking
and sleeping under the cool shade of the bushes, now took up their
wooden pillows, and with mats hanging down from their shoulders,
proceeded to the camp, within the limits of which it is usual for all to
sleep.

_April 21st._—On our starting this morning, I again offered thirty
dollars to induce the Hy Soumaulee to accompany me to Owssa, as Ohmed
Medina said, if they consented, he would also go with us. I received the
usual pantomimic reply of pointing first to their knives, and then to
their throats, with an expressive twist of their features that said how
sorry they should be for such a misfortune to befall us, and Garahmee,
to make the scene still more impressive, holding his spear by its lower
end, and extending it at arm’s length, pointed to the tops of all the
ridges around, as he slowly moved on his heel, and repeated the alarm
cry of “Ko! ko! ko!” telling me as plainly as possible, that our advance
would be the signal for the whole country to be up in arms. I told Ohmed
Medina over and over again, that I might have accompanied him and
Garahmee from Arabderah, but he swore by the Prophet and the name of
Allah that it was quite impossible; for if I had it would have
occasioned the death of the whole party. As it was, they had been
obliged to take the most precipitous roads, and travelled only in the
darkest hours of the night, which, he said, I could not have done, or he
would himself have proposed my going, as he wished me to see and know
everything about the country. I at length dropped the subject, for how
could I disbelieve him in this, who on all other occasions had shown
himself ready to give me every information I required, and frequently
volunteered a great deal more; always valuable when coming from a man of
his good sense and observation.

During the march, passing by some kairns, we began a conversation upon
the Kafirs who formerly occupied this country. Of the ancient religion
Ohmed Medina knew nothing, but he thought it probable, when I pointed
out the constant compass bearing of the graves, and its reference to the
rising sun, that the former inhabitants might have worshipped that
luminary. On asking him what was the belief of the present Soumaulee, he
called them “Monahfuk,” that is, people who knew Allah by name, and who
acknowledged the Prophet, but could not pray, their knowledge of
Islamism extending only to the two expressions of “Ahum d’Allah!”
(“Thanks be to God!”), and “Mahomed Abdurasuel!” (“Mahomed, slave of the
Most High!”)

Ohmed Medina did not deny that the Dankalli and Soumaulee were formerly
one people, although he seemed to admit this with reluctance; but after
I had told him, as he said, a great deal more than he knew previously,
and now learnt for the first time, that differences in the knowledge of
the Mahomedan religion, had been the occasion of their modern
separation; he then confessed, that even at the present day, the
division between the Dankalli and Soumaulee Bedouin tribes was scarcely
recognisable. To illustrate this remark, he informed me, that a great
portion of the Issah Soumaulee acknowledged Lohitu as their Chief, and
bore the Debenee mark upon their breasts. This was the reason that the
man belonging to the Issah, I had seen yesterday speaking to Lohitu,
bore that symbol, or arms of the tribe as it may be called, and for
which I could not before account. Ohmed Medina went on to say, that my
friends the Hy Soumaulee were “Affah,” as much so, as the other
Dankalli, and that the half of the Wahama tribe, to which Mahomed Allee
belonged, were actually Issah Soumaulee. This last observation also
assisted me to explain a plea urged by the Sultaun of Tajourah to
exclude this obnoxious person from that town, it being asserted whilst I
was there that he was an Issah Soumaulee, and consequently ought to take
his Kafilah to Zeila.

After a short journey of three hours we arrived at Ahmahguloff, a
halting-place in the plain, exactly similar to the one of yesterday. The
same narrow tract covered with stones which had fallen from the edge of
the wall-like cliff adjoining, and another little stream brawling down
its narrow ravine, and hiding itself in a tortuous green line of bushes
as it traversed the plain. The banks of this stream, however, were too
soft and marshy, to tempt us to seek our retreat from the sun, among the
bowers formed by its overhanging shrubs. My fortalice of boxes was
therefore erected amidst the stores and piles of salt, which, connected
by far-spreading camel saddles, and covered with mats, gave to the camp
the character of a large caravansary. At this place I became acquainted,
very disagreeably, with one of the most noisome of vermin, and which
afterwards I found abounded in the neighbourhood of Kafilah stations. It
was a round flat tic, the size of a split pea, and of a dark red colour.
It attacked indiscriminately men and beasts. No sooner was the mat laid
down, and I had composed myself for rest, than from all quarters I saw
these dirty-looking squat-made insects crawling towards me, converging,
as it were from the circumference of everywhere, to an unfortunate
centre. They most assuredly smelt blood, and that at immense distances.
For this purpose, I suppose, as also for their feeding apparatus, they
were furnished with long pipe-like snouts, some lines in length, with
which, after making a lodgment upon the body, they made their attack.
Six short legs carried the body along at an extraordinary pace, when
aware of the presence of blood in their neighbourhood. The worst was,
there was no way of getting rid of them; and it would have been a long
and tiresome job to have killed all that were seen. My naked companions
protected me in a great measure, for to these the insects directed their
chief attention, whilst upon the first intimation of the presence of the
few, that did venture upon my legs, I pulled up the bottoms of my
trowsers, and with the sharp point of my knife dislodged the little
vampires very quickly. The favourite locality of these pests appears to
be beneath trees where cattle have recently been. The numbers that may
be seen in such situations are incredible, and they very soon drive the
tired traveller from the shelter, where he had hoped to find a friendly
shade from the burning sun. The natives call them “killem,” and a
somewhat similar insect, though much larger, preys exclusively upon the
camel, where their presence is believed by the owner, to indicate health
in the animal.

In this situation I also observed numerous large ant-hills, some of
which were conical-formed eminences, at least six feet high, with a
circumference of several yards. Himyah having fired his matchlock, at a
vulture perched on the top of one of these insect edifices, missed the
bird, but buried the ball deep into the interior. I walked up to examine
the injury done to the walls of clay, and was surprised to find the work
of restoration already commenced, and busily going forward. Had the
little animals the power of speech, I question much if such unanimity of
purpose would have determined the energies of the whole community, so
immediately to the repair of the injury. Had a corresponding one been
committed on a Dankalli kraal, as I observed to Himyah, they would have
had a month’s calahm about it; to which my companion, turning up the end
of his nose, gave an affirmative jerk of the head, at the same time
ejaculating, “Whalla,” “by God,” as if he had never heard a truer thing
than that, in the whole course of his life.

We both stooped over the hole to watch the progress of the work.
Short-legged thick-bodied labouring ants, already bore masses of
moistened earth several times their own weight to close up the orifice
made by the ball; whilst on all sides the easily distinguished soldiers,
were, running about in great numbers, apparently on the look-out for the
fierce invader, who had made such an onslaught on their castle.

We did not remain at Ahmahguloff for the night, but after “asseir,” or
afternoon prayer, the camels were again loaded, and we moved to another
halting-place about six miles farther to the west, but still in the
plain. A Bedouin who had come into the camp during the day, reported
that abundant forage would be found there. Where we were, the
circumstance of the Kafilah of Mahomed Allee having halted here two
evenings before, had caused a great scarcity of vegetation; their
camels, in fact, had eaten up everything in the shape of leaves and
grass.

The road lay along the base of the bounding ridge to the south of the
plain. As during the morning’s march we took care to choose our path
outside of the fallen fragments of rock, and upon ground where scarcely
a stone the size of a bean could be found, except such as had been
thrown by the hand of some idler passing by. It seemed, indeed, to be
the dried bottom of a muddy lake, the waters of which had been recently
evaporated, for not a green leaf could I see upon it during the two
hours we marched across the parched surface, until we arrived at our
halting-ground, where there certainly were a few patches of coarse
grass; and the sloping sides of the ridge on our left, were more
overgrown with myrrh and other bushes, the small twigs and young foliage
of which, the camels are very fond of. The name of Ahmahguloff was still
retained, and I was given to understand, that all the country until we
turned out of the plain was now so called. The hill of Obinoe was in our
front, not more than five or six miles distant, and I could now plainly
perceive the extremities of several other plains terminating at that
height, as at a centre.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                              CHAPTER XVI.


Journey from Ahmahguloff to Koranhedudah, general direction S.W., time
  occupied three hours.—Pass Jibel Obinoe.—Plain of Amardu.—Account of
  myrrh-tree.—Description of halting-place.—Singular solar
  phenomenon.—_April 23d._ Journey from Koranhedudah to Herhowlee,
  general direction W.N.W., time two hours and a-half.—Bedouin
  village.—Bedouin ladies.


_April 22d._—Ebin Izaak, Ohmed Mahomed, Ohmed Medina, and myself, all
rode our mules during this morning’s march so that we outstript the
pedestrians very soon. Passing out of the plain we ascended a steep
acclivity of loose stones, which led us over one extremity of the ridge
of Mahree, covered with large blocks of lava. After half an hour’s ride
along this, we descended the opposite side, the road being down the
tortuous and often precipitous bed of an occasional torrent. My mule
having placed her feet upon an easily detached stone, came down upon her
side with great violence. I threw myself off, falling in an opposite
direction, and escaped with a few bruises. Remounting again very
speedily, for all had come to my assistance, we entered a narrow valley
plain called Amardu, similar in character to the one we had been
marching along for the last three days, and like it terminating at Jibel
Obinoe, now about four miles distant.

The singularly cleft summit of the low peak of Obinoe, and its apparent
relative position with respect to the various fissured plains that
appear to terminate there as at a centre, induced me to sketch its
outline, as I would a head-land at sea, placing also sundry small arrows
to indicate the directions of the several valleys. Its appearance was,
as if at this point, the previously level plateau had been upraised from
beneath, with a force but just sufficient to lift the then fractured
portions into opposite inclined planes, and the severed summit
distinctly marked, the separated edges of the original table-land. The
greatest height that has been attained by the upraised portion, is not
700 feet above the level of the valley plains, and not 400 above the
level of the flat-topt heights of Dulhull and Mahree.

The plain of Amardu was intersected with deep narrow gullies, or dry
watercourses, four or five feet deep, and as many wide. Plenty of coarse
grass seemed to promise excellent forage for the camels, and I expected,
when we dismounted again under a large tree, that we were going to halt
for the day; however, I was told that this was a favourite rendezvous
for deer and wild asses, and I soon saw several herds of these animals,
besides great numbers of guinea-fowl on every side of us. My companions
had evidently preceded the Kafilah with me, on purpose to obtain, if
possible, one of the larger antelopes, and Ohmed Mahomed now asked me to
go and endeavour to shoot one. I accordingly started, and taking
advantage of one of the water channels, I soon found myself abreast four
very fine ones, as large as roebucks, and not more than eighty yards
distant. I fired at once, but being in a hurry, and my short carbine not
carrying point-blank more than sixty yards, the ball struck the one I
aimed at low on the hind leg, breaking it below the hough. It staggered
on to its hind quarters, but recovering itself immediately, tried on
three legs to follow its affrighted companions. Ebin Izaak seeing this,
jumped upon his mule, and throwing his shield from the bow of his
saddle, and his tobe from his shoulders, galloped in a direction that
would either cut off its retreat, and prevent it joining the others, or
else force it up the steep face of the cliff, down which we had just
come. After a chase of about half an hour, in sight the whole time, we
saw our eager huntsman come alongside the antelope and at full speed
launch his spear into its side. As the animal fell tumbling on its face,
Izaak leaped from his mule, and soon put an end to its vain effort to
rise and to resist, by cutting its throat with his dagger.

The Hy Soumaulee and some of the Kafilah men having followed us over the
ridge of Mahree, now came bounding down the bed of the stream, one after
the other, gathered around the dead antelope, and lashing its feet
together, they brought it to the tree under which we at first halted. We
here waited for the approach of the camels, which were at length seen
rounding the extremity of the ridge, and entering the plain of Amardu,
without going over the ridge as we had done. Before they came to us I
shot three fine guinea-fowl at one discharge, so that the object of our
preceding the Kafilah had not been disappointed. In addition to the
feast thus promised, Ohmed Medina directed one of the Hy Soumaulee to
gather a large quantity of a very delicate vegetable that abounded here,
which he assured me the Banyans at Bombay were very fond of, and that he
knew I should like it too, appearing at the same time rather surprised,
at my ignorance of the plant, which at first I refused to have anything
to do with.

The camels coming up, I was glad to find we were not to stop here for
the day, as I began to feel impatient at the length of the journey to
Shoa, and anxious that it should be concluded as soon as possible,
having been now nearly four weeks almost daily marching, and still I was
informed we had not reached half way.

The game was placed upon the camels, and the vegetable, crammed into one
of Zaido’s skin bags, was thrown between the saddle-staves, where their
extremities cross each other over the back of the camel, and we again
started for a halting-place called Koranhedudah, about three hours’
march in a direction, south-west. We ascended a long, but gentle
acclivity, for at least two hours of this time, along a road strewn with
the everlasting lava cinders, and at length reached a small circular
spot about a mile in diameter, surrounded with low black ridges of the
usual character, and at the foot of which were several pools of clear
water, where an abundance of frogs kept up a continual croaking. Myrrh
and mimosa-trees abounded in this place; among the latter I noticed the
variety producing gum arabic, and also another which yielded a strong
astringent gum, that resembled very much the gum kino.

Accompanied by Ebin Izaak I went in search of some gum myrrh, as I was
very anxious to procure specimens of the leaves, flowers, and seeds of
the tree that yields this useful drug, and a description of which I had
been taught, had long been a desideratum in “Materia Medica.”

There are in the country of Adal two varieties; one, a low thorny
ragged-looking tree, with bright green leaves, trifoliolate, and an
undulating edge, is that which has been described by Ehrenberg, and a
wood-cut of which will be found in page 1629 of the second volume of
Pereira’s “Elements of Materia Medica.” This produces the finest sort of
myrrh in our shops. The other is a more leafy tree, if I may use the
expression, and its appearance reminded me exceedingly of the common
hawthorn of home, having the same largely serrated, dark green leaves,
growing in bunches of four or five, springing by several little
leaf-stalks from a common centre. These bunches are arranged alternately
around the branch, at the distance of half an inch from each other, but
varying with the age and size of the branch. The young shoots appear to
be these sessile bunches, which, more luxuriant in their growth, project
their axis into one long common foot-stalk, around which the leaves are
then arranged singly, exactly, if I remember right, as do the young
shoots of the hawthorn, the terminations of which, like in the
myrrh-tree, decaying, leave strong thorns. The flowers are small, of a
light green colour, hanging in pairs beneath the leaves, and in size and
shape resemble very much the flowers of our gooseberry-tree. According
to the system of Linnæus, with which alone I am acquainted, it belongs
to the class octandria, order monogynia, the eight stamens being
alternately long and short, the former corresponding to the four partial
clefts in the edge of the one-leafed calyx. The fruit is a kind of
berry, that, when ripe, easily throws off the dry shell in two pieces,
and the two seeds it contains, escape. The outer bark is thin,
transparent, and easily detached, the inner thick, woody, and, if cut
with a knife, appears to abound with vessels, from the divided
extremities, of which a yellow turbid fluid (the gum myrrh) immediately
makes its appearance. This, if wiped off upon paper, leaves a greasy
stain, like oil would do. Naturally the gum exudes from cracks in the
bark of the trunk near the roots, and flows freely upon the stones
immediately underneath. Artificially, it is obtained by bruises made
with stones. Iron instruments are never employed to produce the wound,
not from any prejudice, I believe, but from the scarcity of that metal,
and the great care taken of their weapons by the Dankalli, and from
finding, perhaps, that a blow given with a stone occasions a broader
injury to the bark, and that the gum exudes more plentifully in
consequence. The natives collect it principally in the hot months of
July and August, but it is to be found, though in very small quantities,
at other times of the year. It is collected in small kid-skins, and
taken to Errur, where the Hurrah merchants, when they pass through that
country on their way home from Shoa, purchase it. An equal quantity of
tobacco is given in exchange for it. The Hurrah merchant conveys it to
the great annual market at Berberah, from whence great quantities are
shipped for India and Arabia.

During our search for the myrrh, I often came upon the gum Arabic
mimosa, with its little black thorn, very different from the long
white-thorned variety from which I obtained some of the red gum. Gum
Arabic, when taken from the tree, is soft, and of an agreeable taste,
something resembling very young wheat in the ear, and must be a
nutritious and pleasant food. The Dankalli seemed to be perfectly aware
of its demulcent effect in allaying thirst, and insisted that in the
absence of water, it was a sufficient substitute. When I thought upon
the numerous instances of benevolent adaptations for our happiness and
convenience in other more favoured spots, I could not help reflecting,
experienced as I was in the scanty resources of a desert, how much more
striking, in such situations, were these extraordinary provisions
against human suffering in cases of extremity.

On returning to the camp my attention was directed to a singular
phenomenon. Exactly over head was a large circular cloud, like a huge
shield, in the centre of which the sun shone with a subdued light, a
brilliant boss. The outer circle or edge of the cloud was of a bright
silver colour, then a narrow band of dull yellow, and the remainder,
until it reached the bright centre, was as black as a heavy
thunder-cloud. Its diameter was about one-fourth of the sky. In about an
hour it gradually disappeared, leaving for a short time afterwards a
perfectly circular rainbow around the sun, at the distance of its
original circumference. I observed, that although the sun seemed to
shine very brightly, as if through an aperture in the centre of this
singular appearance, it cast no shadow, and also that the air was much
cooler during its continuance. It frequently occurs in Adal, and appears
to depend, like the halo around the moon, upon the moisture in the
atmosphere.

A geographical discussion on the situation of Hurrah and Abasha
concluded the day, and after superintending the cooking of one of the
guinea-fowls, I turned into my hut, for supper and then to bed. Thunder,
lightning, and rain seemed to promise an uncomfortable night, but after
a short heavy shower, I was agreeably disappointed by its clearing up
and continuing fine for the rest of the night.

_April 23d._—Left Koranhedudah, or “the Plain of Ravens,” by sunrise,
our march continuing along the banks of a small river flowing towards
the south-east into the new lake of Doweleeka. A day or two before I had
been told, as something peculiar, that we should cross such a
watercourse. It appeared to be a permanently-running water, for the
trees on either bank were of an unusual size, and some of them of a
novel character, but I had no opportunity of examining them closely.
Having forded the stream where it flowed over a broad surface of rather
large stones, some of which were not covered by the water, we entered an
extensive plain, abounding with a rank coarse grass, amidst the tufts of
which we travelled for nearly three hours, passing a deserted kraal,
with numerous broken stone enclosures for folding the young of the
flock. Numerous kairns were also visible. It was very evident that at
some seasons this plain was a favourite resort of the Bedouins, and, in
fact, after another hour’s march, during which we crossed two or three
narrow brooks, we came suddenly upon a number of native huts, situated
on a ridge of lava, which here, as in several other places in the plain,
protruded through the clayey soil.

This encampment belonged to the tribe of my Hy Soumaulee friends, and
were the first huts of the natives I had seen during my journey. There
were about twenty or thirty of them, but Ohmed Mahomed, with great
gravity, informed me that the name of the _city_ was Herhowlee, the
plain around being called Lukhee. On my expressing a wish to see the
interior of one of the mansions, a very handsome nice-looking girl, to
whom Ohmed Mahomed applied, immediately assented, and took me to her
father’s, I suppose, for on our arrival there was no one to be seen but
an old gentleman, nearly blind. He was busily employed stirring with a
stick some kind of grain, which was boiling in a red earthenware pot
over the fire. The house itself was exactly the same, as some I had seen
at Berberah, about twelve feet long by six in breadth and height,
consisting of a frame of bent twigs, over which were thickly laid mats
of the palm leaf, sufficient to throw off the rain, whilst entire leaves
of the same tree, placed perpendicularly, closed the farther extremity.
The fire-place was a small circle of stones, occupying the one half of
the entrance end, and which portion was also protected by a shielding of
palm-leaves, whilst the other half was left open to serve as a door.
There was nothing like furniture in the place, except a flat stone
reared against the side of the room, which, from its mealy appearance,
was evidently used as a mill. From the roof was hung one of the large
water-tight baskets of the common construction, containing, I presume,
the family riches of tobacco, beads, bits of paper, coloured rags, and
lumps of sheep’s-tail fat. Very few natives interrupted me in my
examination, as they evidently thought I was fascinated with the
beauties of their handsome sister; and this little experience was of
service to me, for afterwards, when, as was always the case, I did not
want to be troubled with the numerous beggars who, in populous
districts, besiege the traveller with requests for everything they see,
I used to station at the entrance of my hut one of their women, and it
was seldom, or never, that the men would then intrude, and if they did,
some trifle, or a word from my keeper, always sent them away. The
husband or the father of the woman, however, always came up on leaving
our halting-place to receive the gift which was expected for the
services performed, and which, of course, when I came to understand
their customs better, I took care to reserve for them. The traveller
will generally find that the older his duenna is, the more relief and
rest he will obtain after his journey, for she will take care to keep
away all intruders, and it is laughable to observe the abuse or threats
they indulge in, whenever the younger girls come peeping and running
about. A few needles, a piece of blue Surat cloth for the head, and
another for their principal male friend, is all and more than they
expect; whilst the freedom from annoyance and constant watching, which
is secured by this proceeding, is of great service to the traveller
after the fatigue of a long day’s journey.

The plain of Lukhee, at that part of it where we were, appears to have
been once a similar valley to that we had travelled along during the
three last days, but it has been completely filled up, with the
deposited sediment of the numerous small streams in this neighbourhood,
to the height of the lava plateau through which these wide and deep
fissures, have originally radiated.

The country around extending in one wide plain, advantage had been taken
of the little eminence, near which the huts were erected, to form a kind
of small solid look-out, about fifteen feet high, built of loose stones,
and used on occasions of anticipated invasion, by the inhabitants of
Herhowlee, who could here keep watch and announce the approach of
danger. Ohmed Mahomed and two of my Hy Soumaulee escort took me to its
summit, to point out the different distant eminences visible from it.
Before us, to the south, lay the extensive plain of Lukhee, over which
was just discernible, at the distance of at least fifty miles, the high
hills of Goror, near the town of Hurrah, where the coffee brought to
Berberah is largely cultivated. Turning towards the north we could
perceive the abrupt termination of the flat-topped lava ridges, about
the river of Killaloo; whilst to the south-west was the valley of Gaiel,
through which flowed the waters of Errur on to Killaloo. To the west the
plain extended to the Hawash, near to which were two hills, whose tops
were just visible, called Hyhilloo and Abhidah.

In the evening I went with Himyah and Ohmed Medina after some antelopes,
but could not get near enough to them; however, we roused a large
yellow-coloured snake, of at least five feet in length, that, unscathed
by my hurried shot at him, went hissing hot, into his hole under a clump
of grass, nor did he cease making the noise, until the last of his tail
had disappeared, just in time to escape being pinched off, by the
butt-end of a spear, which was struck at it by Ohmed Medina.

At Herhowlee, we were unfortunate enough to meet with a runaway slave,
belonging to Ohmed Mahomed. He was a great rascal, and his master would
rather, that he had not made his appearance. His name was Allee, and
having lived for the last six months with the Bedouins, had acquired
somewhat of their wildness. I suspected him, from the great intimacy
that seemed to exist between him and Garahmee, and he was just that kind
of character, that might be made the instrument of an unscrupulous man.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                             CHAPTER XVII.


Staying at Herhowlee.—Dankalli sell their female children for
  slaves.—Pillar of sand and cloud of fire indications of rain.—Engage
  escort of thirty Hy Soumaulee. Comparison between modern Dankalli and
  ancient Blemmyes.—_April 26th_, Journey from Herhowlee to Barradudda,
  general direction S.S.W.; time marching two hours.—Description of
  halting-place.—Religious discussion with Ohmed Medina.


_April 24th._—A beautiful morning, air fresh and cool, and I was
disappointed at there being no start. We were staying, I believe, to
give the camels a rest. All this day I kept in my hut amusing myself by
projecting a map from the information I had received of the surrounding
country, including Owssa and the lakes of the Hawash. On showing it to
Ohmed Medina for his confirmation of the particulars, he was much
pleased with the attempt, and begged me to make a copy for him. This map
quite restored me to his good opinion, as to the extent of my knowledge,
which had been somewhat shaken by my ignorance of the vegetable, he had
gathered for me the day before, and which turned out to be most
excellent. I should observe, that I have since learnt that it is the
common Barjee of Indian bazaars, and Ohmed Medina was quite right
therefore in the statement he made of its being a favourite food of the
Banyans, and it indicated no little observation on his part, to have
noticed that circumstance.

Garahmee to-day left us to pay a short visit to his family, who lived in
a kraal some miles to the north, in the direction of Owssa. As he
expected a present upon the occasion, I gave him a couple of coloured
handkerchiefs for his two wives. It is very seldom that a Dankalli
Bedouin has more than one help-mate; but Garahmee, making great
pretensions to a godly life, like a pious Mahomedan, had added another
wife to his establishment. The precepts of his religion being so far
practised, his virtue was rewarded, by the profit arising from the sale
of his more numerous offspring; having just been to Tajourah, to
conclude a bargain for his youngest and only remaining daughter. He had
on previous occasions disposed of two elder ones, and before he left
Herhowlee, he came to me again and offered for three dollars, to bring
me the daughter of some friend who, he said, had one to dispose of, but
I have no doubt, he intended to steal the girl, had I consented to the
business.

To-day I witnessed a very interesting proof of the great similarity
between the climate and physical character of this country, and that
through which Moses led the Israelites in their flight from Egypt. About
noon, a sudden stir among the Kafilah people, induced me to leave my hut
to see what could be the matter; every one was running about for mats
and skins, with which they covered in a great hurry the heaps of
salt-bags, that surrounded the encampment. Those who had charge of the
stores of the Embassy, were equally busy in protecting the boxes and
packages, from a storm which was fast approaching, for on looking
towards the east I saw, with astonishment, the sky in that direction
quite dark, with one vast cloud of wind, and the red sand borne up
before it. Its rotary motion was very evident, although the whirlwind,
as it really was, was too large and too near to be seen distinctly as a
separate body, which it might have been at some little distance. It
advanced towards the camp at the rate of about ten or twelve miles an
hour, but as numbers were now shouting to me to get under cover, and I
did not know exactly what effects to anticipate, I made a dive into my
hut, and wrapping my head and face up in my handkerchief to prevent
inhaling more of the fine sand than could be avoided, I awaited the
result. In a few moments afterwards, the strength of the wind passed
over us, whirling the roof of my hut, along with the mats covering the
salt, high up in the air, and scattering them far and wide over the
plain. The heavy stones that had been placed upon them to prevent such
an occurrence being rolled off, sometimes upon the prostrate Kafilah
men, who lay under the sides of the salt heaps, which they had hoped
would have served as a kind of shielding from the blinding and choking
sand. A few drops of rain, and some distant claps of thunder,
accompanied this phenomenon. In a few minutes, the sky clearing, the
short silence of the camp gave way to a burst of shouting and laughing,
as the people chased the retiring column, in pursuit of their flying
mats and ropes. I got out of my retreat, and saw moving towards the
west, an immense pillar of sand, reaching from earth to heaven, in form
and size exactly like the huge water-spouts I have seen out at sea, off
the island of Ceylon.

On asking Ohmed Medina respecting these sand spouts, and whether they
were common in Adal, he told me, that sometimes twenty or thirty of
them, might be seen at once upon extensive plains which admitted of
their formation, and added, that they were always accompanied by rain,
and with the sheet lightning in the horizon by night, and that these
signs, directed the Bedouins to situations, where they would not fail to
find water for their flocks. This was a most interesting fact for me to
learn, evidently proving, as it does, that the goodness of heaven was
not especially devoted to the comfort and happiness of the Israelites
alone, as with some little national vanity, and more ignorance of
natural phenomena, these people have ascribed the presence of the pillar
of a cloud by day, and the pillar of fire by night, to be, imagining
them to have been solely created for the purpose of directing them in
their wanderings through the wilderness. We find, however, that in Adal
the same benevolence has there provided for the Dankalli Bedouin,
similar indications for his convenience, in a country where water is
only occasionally found. Moses, very properly led the Israelites to
believe these signs to be, as they really are, miracles of mercy exerted
in the behalf of man, and which still prove, as in the time of that
great leader, that the hand of God is always stretched over his
creatures, to preserve them in situations, where otherwise, they would
be exposed to great privations.

All the evening, Ohmed Medina and Ohmed Mahomed were engaged in a great
council; the men of Herhowlee and of the Kafilah, forming one great
circle, between the village and our encampment. Immediately on our
arrival the best understanding had been established between us, and
after the first surprise occasioned by my appearance had worn away, I
was received by the inhabitants of the village, on the same familiar
terms as other people of the Kafilah, and sometimes visited them in
their houses. Here medicine was in great demand, and frequently asked
for in exchange, for the milk and butter which were offered.

The cause of the calahm this evening I found, was the circumstance
becoming known to our Ras ul Kafilah, that a serious quarrel existed
between the Hy Soumaulee and the Wahama, the next tribe on our route to
Shoa. As the treatment of Mahomed Allee, who was a Wahama, when last in
Tajourah, had been exceedingly unfriendly, his tribe had determined to
resent it, and threatened a very hostile reception, to future Tajourah
Kafilahs passing through their country. All this we had been made aware
of, when we met the Kafilah of Mahomed Allee at Sagagahdah, and Ohmed
Mahomed felt a corresponding anxiety, until he was somewhat relieved, by
finding that his friends, the Hy Soumaulee, had also a quarrel with the
same tribe. A large council was accordingly called together this
evening, to determine upon a combined mode of proceeding, to ensure a
safe passage through the country of our common enemy.

The result was, that an additional escort of thirty Hy Soumaulee were
engaged, who were to receive for their services four dollars each man,
to be paid on our arrival in Shoa. After it was all settled, I was
requested to give, the security of my promise for its payment; and as I
was convinced that any expense really necessary to secure the safety of
the stores, would be readily paid on the termination of our journey by
the Mission in Shoa, I did not hesitate to assure them, that they would
certainly receive, on our arrival, what I considered to be, their very
moderate demand. The Hy Soumaulee expressed themselves satisfied, and
two-thirds of the required number were immediately enlisted, who, after
giving their names to be enrolled in my note-book, hastened to their
homes, to make some preparations for the journey.

_April 25th._—We were obliged to remain at Herhowlee all this day, to
allow of some jowahree biscuit being prepared, for the use of the new
escort upon the road. Numerous deliberative calahms were held during the
day, for the Dankalli people cannot do the least public business,
without having a succession of these council-meetings to determine upon
the best course to be adopted.

In these calahms, it is usual for every one to sit down in a large
circle, holding before him his shield, over the top of which the face
alone is visible. In the right hand they hold the spear upright, its
butt-end resting upon the ground. Each has a voice in the assembly, but
it is very seldom that more than two or three of them speak, and the
advice of the elders appears to have the greatest influence. When any
difference of opinion arises, the party in the minority never endeavours
to argue, but either remains silent or retires from the circle, so that
the greatest unanimity always prevails. In case of very different
opinions being supported by influential men, I have seen the two parties
divide into separate rings. Each discuss their own particular views, and
subsequent conferences of the chiefs of either side then determine the
course of action to be adopted. During the whole proceedings the
greatest care is taken to avoid a quarrel. If, however, party feeling
should run unusually high, the precaution of a general peace assembly is
resorted to both before and after the discussion, when every man takes
an oath upon the Koran not to injure the others, so that whilst a number
of tribes are combined together in any general business, it very rarely
happens that a quarrel takes place among them.

With respect to the usual attitude of these people, when sitting in
conversation, or in council, their faces just appearing above the upper
edge of their shields, it struck me that very probably, this might have
given occasion, for the representations made of an Ethiopian people who
had no heads, but whose eyes and mouths were placed upon their breasts.
No other reason can be found to account for the described appearance of
the Blemmyes, and those who have seen the Dankalli sitting behind their
shields, either in council or in battle array, must admit, I think, the
probability that this national and characteristic custom was the
foundation of the ancient report.

_April 26th._—All the Hy Soumaulee being ready to start, our Kafilah
moved off the ground about sunrise. I marched in company with Ohmed
Medina and our numerous escort, over a rich well-watered country for two
hours, till we arrived at the commencement of a large plain, flanked by
flat-topped lava ridges, where it was again resolved to halt for the
day. The plain was called Barradudda, and afforded excellent and
abundant forage for the camels.

It was a beautiful spot which was selected for the encampment, the whole
surface of the earth being one extensive green sward of fresh young
grass. Mimosa-trees there grew to an extraordinary height, festooned
from the topmost branches with a many-flowered climbing plant, which
extending from tree to tree, formed a continued suite of the coolest
bowers. The aditu, also offered its thick shade of round velvet-like
leaves, from amidst which its short white trunk, seemed to represent the
painted tent-pole of some bright green pavilion, of the richest
material. Doves in all directions fled startled at our approach, only to
return immediately, with louder cooing, to the quickly-remembered care
of their young, who, in flat slightly-built nests of dry sticks and
grass, lay crowding to the centre, as if aware of the insecurity of
their frail-built homes. Hares in great numbers bounded from beneath our
feet, and after running a few yards, would turn to gaze again upon the
intruders on the quiet of their retreats, whilst the tall stalking
bustard scarcely deigned to notice our arrival, but seemingly intent
upon his beetle hunt, slowly removed himself from the increasing noise.

The scene was particularly inviting to me after the stones and sand of
the previous few days’ journey, and although our march this morning had
not been long, I was not sorry to learn the determination of the Ras ul
Kafilah to remain here for the day. I soon got my carpet and mats
arranged, borrowed a wooden pillow for my head, and with two or three of
the new escort on one side, and Ohmed Medina on the other, had a long
conversation, as we lay under the trees, upon the subject of religion. I
endeavoured to make Ohmed Medina understand what a good Christian his
Prophet Mahomed was, which was duly interpreted to the amused Bedouins,
who all sat very patiently in an attitude of attention, until sufficient
novel matter had been understood by Ohmed Medina, to interest them in
the recital.

There are few interesting subjects, respecting which so little is
generally known, as the Mahomedan religion. It professes a belief in one
true and only God; and Islamism, apart from the rule of life instituted
by Mahomed, was professed by Abraham, by Isaac, and, according to my
opinion, which is of no value, but as satisfactory to my own conscience,
was also taught by Jesus and his disciples. That our Saviour will appear
again, is the cherished hope of every enlightened Mahomedan, and he
glories in affirming that all the inhabitants of the world will then
become his followers. This is so general an idea, that even the ignorant
Mahomedans of the East, firmly believe that the Amhara, or Christian
population, of Abyssinia, will at a future time seize Mecca, and destroy
the temple. Something similar to this is the expressed fear of the Turks
at the present day, that the Feringees will ultimately take
Constantinople, and put down their religion. Both these popular ideas
originate from the same source, as that which directs the learned Islam
Mollum to expect the coming of Jesus; a tradition respecting Mahomed,
who is stated to have confessed, that inasmuch as that Christ was not
dead but living, and would come again, he was superior to himself, who
was mortal and should die, like other men.

The numerous and fast extending sect, the Whaabbees, act up to this
admission, and not only are they careful, to avoid all allusions to
Mahomed in their prayers, but affect to make intercession in his behalf,
by praying that God will forgive him his great sins; for not only they,
but all other Mahomedans admit that their Prophet was so far from being
immaculate, that he frequently violated the laws which he himself had
promulgated as coming direct from Allah. The Whaabbees, who are
Mahomedan Unitarians, a few years back, overran all Arabia, destroyed
the tomb of Mahomed in Medina, and were about to act in a similar manner
towards the temple in Mecca. The first man, however, who had mounted the
roof for this purpose, by some accident, was precipitated to the ground
and killed. This looked so like a judgment, that the zeal of these
reformers abated considerably, and being soon after driven out of the
Hedjas, and in some measure suppressed, by Mahomed Allee Pacha, this
famous shrine escaped, for some short time, that destruction which I
hope yet to see accomplished.

I need not enter into details of our interesting conversation, which
only terminated with the setting sun. All afternoon we lay discussing
matters of religion until it was fully understood by all that I was a
Christian Whaahbee; and Ohmed Medina taking hold of my beard, drew it
gently through his hand, as he said, that “an Ahkeem with such a promise
of wisdom as that, ought to be altogether a Mussulman.” “Thou almost
persuadest me to be a Christian,” would have been a more gratifying
speech from my Islam companion, but I am no St. Paul.

In my notes upon this conversation, I have remarked that it is my firm
conviction that the believers in one God, who live according to the
moral precepts of the religion of Jesus, is the sect to whom is
reserved, the glory of reuniting in one faith, the present divided
family of man. Unitarianism, is the fore-coming shadow of this to be
universally acknowledged belief, and all who profess its tenets should
reflect, upon the important object committed to their agency, and
encouraged by the high hope, that must result from their thoughts upon
the subject, they will perhaps increase their endeavours to spread more
widely, the principles of faith which they profess.

This observation is inserted solely as a matter of what I conceive to be
duty; I hope, therefore, that thus recording my conviction, a bearing
testimony to what the natural education of circumstances has taught me
to believe to be the truth, will not be charged as presumption;
especially when I feel assured that my omitting it, would be an act of
the grossest ingratitude to my constant Guide and Guard, who has led and
preserved me, through no ordinary difficulties and dangers.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                             CHAPTER XVIII.


Staying at Barradudda.—Milk diet.—Wound myself by accidental discharge
  of gun.—Bedouin skirmish.—Mode of warfare among Dankalli.—Compensation
  for wounds and injured property.—Peace re-established.


DURING the evening of our first day’s halt at Barradudda, a party of the
women of Herhowlee came into camp, bearing upon their loins, in the
usual fashion, large skins of milk. They had followed the Kafilah, upon
hearing that we had halted at so short a distance. I came in for a share
of their delicious burden, and certainly among the many discomforts of a
wandering desert life, the constant supply of rich sweet curdled milk,
which forms the principal food of the natives, compensates somewhat for
the compulsatory abstinence of an educated stomach, from the cooked
viands, and other creature comforts attendant upon civilization. One
woman, for a handful of tobacco, brought me a kid-skin, containing about
a quart of camel’s milk. This is of a very different character, to that
of cattle, sheep, or goats, and as it never affords any cream, is never
mixed with the produce of these for the purpose of making butter. It is
a favourite drink of the Dankalli, from its medicinal virtues, being a
gentle aperient. It is a light and agreeable beverage, having very
little body, as connoisseurs are accustomed to say when speaking of
their wines. Camels yield milk at all hours, and not merely at the
stated morning and evening’s milkings of the flocks, which is a great
recommendation of these animals to a Dankalli family.

On turning in for the night, Allee the Second sat at the entrance of my
hut, telling me a long tale of the luxuries of Owssa, dates, milk, and
wheaten bread, and nothing to do but sleep and eat, and eat and sleep.
He seemed to think that if there were Paradise upon earth, it was
situated in this particular part of Africa; but I expect, that the poets
of Greece and Rome, held a more correct opinion, when they made it the
kingdom of hell, for I am convinced myself, that when they send their
heroes to the infernal regions, they are only describing some journey,
made into this dangerous and desert-spread continent. The punishments of
Tantalus, or the mirage; of Sisyphus, or the whirlwind of sand; and of
Ixion for his amour with a cloud, or the necessity of continually
revolving water-wheels, to irrigate even the most favoured spots; all
tend to connect Africa, in my opinion with the hell of mythological
history; and the natural phenomena there witnessed are the foundations,
of the highly-coloured figurative punishments awarded to the guilty, who
were supposed to be banished to these dreary and unhappy deserts, in
contradistinction to the abode of the blest in the beautiful and
luxuriant garden of the Hesperides, the elysium of the West.

_April 27th._—Barradudda was too abundant of forage and water to admit
of our leaving to-day, so we remained, much to my discomfort, for I
found the little bug-like tics, as great admirers of beautiful scenery
as ourselves, and seemed on this spot to be collected in myriads. They
constitute, I should think, a very efficient remedy for the bad effects
of too much blood being made by animals, who otherwise might suffer from
the unlimited indulgence in good food, this place admits of.

After writing out a few notes on the conversation of yesterday with
Ohmed Medina, I set about cleaning my carbine. Having drawn the charge
of both barrels, as I supposed, I put caps upon the nipple, and to show
how little was to be feared from the detonation of these alone, which
the surrounding Bedouins thought quite as dangerous as ball and powder,
I put my hand very bravely to the muzzle of the gun. On pulling the
trigger, however, much to my surprise, I blew my hand into the mouth of
a gaping Bedouin, who, with some others, sat upon their heels watching
all my movements, until it came to the explosion, with very evident
interest. Fortunately, the only injury I received was a severely
contused burn of the whole of the palm of my hand, but the Bedouins
thinking I must be killed outright rushed from the hut in a great hurry;
Moosa dropped the bullet he held in his hand, another, the powder of the
only barrel it appeared, that I had drawn the complete charge of, whilst
each of the others seemed anxious to get as far away as he possibly
could. The fellow whom I had upset, rolled over and over in an agony of
mind, in too great a hurry, to get on his legs and run.

Ohmed Mahomed, and Ohmed Medina, expecting the worst from the stir that
was so suddenly occasioned, came with two or three of the Tajourah
people to my aid, as soon as they could snatch up their spears and
shields, for the commotion and rush to arms had now become general.
Quiet, however, was soon restored upon my endeavouring to laugh at the
accident, as my friends came up, and who certainly were very sorry to
see the state of my hand, the extent of injury to which I could not
ascertain, so contracted were my fingers over the palm. Himyah, the
matchlock man, was the only one who enjoyed the accident, and he laughed
with most unrestrained mirth, as he pointed to the cut on his cheek, not
yet cured, and called my attention to the fact, of my having laughed as
immoderately, on the occasion of his accident, as he did now, at mine.
Having washed the wound with the hot water Zaido had prepared for the
purpose of cleaning my gun, a poultice was made with some biscuits that
remained, and binding it on the injured part I retired with gloomy
anticipations of the morrow’s examination, expecting to find a most
extensive injury done to the tendons of my hand. I could not help though
being much amused, with the very-varying accounts of this accident,
related by the Bedouins to their women, or strangers, who visited the
camp.

Among other visitors, were six Wahamas, who came to make some
proposition of peace to the Hy Soumaulee people, and on whose account a
long calahm was held, for three or four hours during the day. One of
them had relations with us, an old man and his son, the wife of the
former being the aunt of one of the Wahama, and after the calahm, the
family party retired together to the shade of a large mimosa-tree, a few
hundred yards from the camp, where they sat for some time in friendly
conversation.

About four o’clock, a sudden commotion among the Kafilah men, all
rushing to spears and shields, and loud shouts of “Ahkeem! Ahkeem!”
awoke me from my siesta. Jumping up from my mat, I seized my firearms,
and ran towards the place where Ohmed Medina and Ebin Izaak were
beckoning me to come. In front, was a crowd of some twelve or fourteen
men fighting in the greatest desperation, and so near to us, that the
spears that were thrown almost struck the shields of those with whom I
was sitting. About thirty yards beyond the combatants, who, in close
fight, were yelling, struggling, and falling, another line, consisting
chiefly of my Hy Soumaulee escort, sat with their shields before them,
in the same quiet spectator-like fashion as ourselves. I must observe,
however, that Adam Burrah and Moosa, as soon as they saw me in the line
with the Tajourah people, came from the opposite side, and sat close in
front of me. Ohmed Medina told me not to fire, or take any part in the
business except to take care of myself, as the quarrel was a private
one, and that no one would attack us, if we did not commence
hostilities. To make more secure against an accident, Ebin Izaak kept
his hand on my right arm all the time, to prevent me taking up either of
my guns that lay upon the ground on each side of me.

During the fight I noticed, that occasionally one of the Kafilah men
would spring up from his sitting posture, and with a loud shout run
towards the combatants. He was invariably answered by one of the Hy
Soumaulee opposite, who rushed to meet him; so that in a short time,
more than double the number of the original fighters were engaged.

The contest which was now taking place in my sight was an actual
representation, on a small scale, of the mode of fighting practised by
the Dankalli tribes. When two hostile bodies of these people meet, it is
not usual for the whole to engage, but sitting down in two opposite
lines at the distance of sixty or eighty yards from each other, they
await the result, produced by the yelling, jumping, and speechifying of
their leaders, who for this purpose stand up immediately in front of
their men.

At the intended attack upon our Kafilah at Wadalissan, by the Bursane
Bedouins, Garahmee, in addition to his duty of keeping the people
squatting upon their heels, evidently recited some martial song, or
speech, which at intervals, was responded to with loud yells, and
shaking of the spears in the direction of the enemy.

A few becoming sufficiently excited by these means, they rush from
either side into the intervening space. The combat then commences, by
each of these singling out his opponent and squatting opposite to him,
in their usual attitude, at the distance of a few yards. Balancing their
spears in a threatening manner, they spar at each other for several
minutes, until one conceives he has a favourable opportunity of
launching his spear, when, springing to his feet, he darts it with great
force and precision. Seldom, however, any injury is thus produced, for
his wary antagonist, with his shield, dashes it aside, and then
endeavours to break by jumping and stamping upon it, as it lies upon the
ground. He, in his turn, threatens with his weapon, his spearless
opponent, who, bounding from side to side, in a stooping posture,
endeavours to cover with his shield his whole body, save the head, and
thus gives no steady object for the aim of the coming missile. At
length, the spear being thrown, probably with the same harmless effect,
both snatch their knives from their girdle, and rush with great
impetuosity upon each other, throwing their shields to the ground to
admit of their grappling with their left hands, whilst with the right
they strike swift and heavy blows at the neck and into the left side. A
few moments decide the murderous conflict, and the loud shout of the
victor, as he pushes from his front the heavy corpse of the slain,
proclaims his success in the gladiatorial combat.

During the fight, continual shouts of encouragement, or of derision, are
raised by the non-combatants, who are waiting only the stimulus of
revenge, on seeing a friend or leader killed, or to be prompted by the
desire to assist some wounded companion, when they then rush into the
conflict, from their previous couchant position, in the rear. No sooner,
however, does any one spring forward for this purpose, than he is met by
some brave of the opposite side, who runs to encounter him. Sometimes
two or three, or even more, hasten for the same purpose; but
corresponding opponents leap forward to engage hand to hand in a
succession of duels, with those who shew this anxiety to mingle in the
fray. In this manner the excitement spreads, pair after pair enter the
ensanguined lists, and new comers continue to lengthen out the contest,
until one side exhausts its warriors, and the weak and cowardly of that
party alone are sitting in the rear. The victors now joined by their
reserve friends rush forward to attack these, and kill whoever resists,
while the rest, throwing aside their spears and shields, fly for their
lives. Thus terminates a sanguinary affair, for of the number of
warriors actually engaged, one half, on the side of the defeated party,
must be slain; sometimes, with very little loss on the part of the
victors.

To return to the little battle in our front, I soon observed, that part
of the latter comers up, instead of joining in the fight, were throwing
their twisted tobes across the arms of the combatants, and dragging
them, one by one, out of the _mélée_, some being thrown violently to the
ground, in the efforts made by their friends to separate them. In a few
minutes afterwards, four men burst from the crowd, threw away their
shields, their spears had been broken previously, and ran at the top of
their speed, in a direction towards the south. No one followed after to
molest them, or to prevent their retreat, and the remaining combatants,
who were able to walk, returned to their respective sides, where they
fell into line as before. No attention, at the time, being paid to the
deep gashes, and bleeding wounds, every one of them exhibited on some
part of their bodies.

The cause of the quarrel had been the attempt of one of the Wahamas, who
had retired with two of our Kafilah men to some little distance from the
camp, to appropriate to himself the shield of the old man, when the son
of the latter had returned on some errand to the camp. The old man,
however, still retained somewhat of the spirit of youth, and after a
vain struggle to retain possession of the shield, suddenly let it go,
but seizing a spear, hurled it at the thief, just as he was making off
with his prize. It was fortunate for him that the weapon was thrown with
the trembling hand of age; for as it was, it inflicted a severe wound a
little below the hip, and hung trailing a moment or two before it fell
out.

The man thinking himself more grievously hurt than he was, dropt the
shield, and began calling out “Wahama, Wahama,” rushing at the same time
with his drawn knife upon the old man. The son of the latter, who had
returned on the first alarm, ran to the rescue of his father, whilst the
Wahama people hastened to the assistance of their friend. A number of
the Kafilah people, Hy Soumaulee and half-bloods, now mingled in the
fray, whilst those who knew nothing of either party, or were not
relations, took no part beyond looking after their own safety. My
escort, not knowing how the affair would terminate, sat prepared for any
emergency on one side, whilst the Kafilah people formed another
semicircular line opposite. It was evident, however, that both the Hy
Soumaulee and the Tajourah people were afraid of the consequences that
might arise from any of the Wahama negotiators being killed; and at
length, after a message from Ohmed Mahomed, in which he promised a tobe
to the Chief of the Hy Soumaulee, and some blue sood to his men, several
of them laid aside their arms, and with their twisted tobes managed, by
main force, to drag asunder the contending parties, and in this manner
restored peace.

Settling this affair was a very serious business. Two of the Wahamas
were severely wounded, Himyah had got the muscles of the upper arm
transfixed by a spear, and numbers of others had received sundry cuts,
stabs, and scratches. Then there were broken spears, lost knives, torn
tobes, and injured shields, for all of which compensation was claimed.

I was desired to go to the assistance of the Wahama by some of their
friends, but both Ohmed Medina and Ohmed Mahomed insisted on my not
moving until the peace assembly had been convened. Some design was
evidently intended against my person by the determined “Cutta” with
which Moosa and Adam Burrah sent away the friends of the wounded men,
and who would not have done so had they not suspected something unfair.
Heaven only knows what those intentions were; but as the Wahamas desired
nothing so much as to see the Tajourah people foiled in any attempt to
take up an English Kafilah to Shoa, and which they asserted could be
only done by their own country-man Mahomed Allee, I dare say they would
have attempted to assassinate me, to contribute so much to the
discomfiture of their hated rivals. Even the half-bloods, who formed
part of our own Kafilah, always disliked to converse, on the subject of
the transmission of stores, through the country of Adal. Some preference
and especial marks of favour bestowed upon Mahomed Allee by the Embassy
and Salie Selasse, King of Shoa, seemed, in their minds, to have
constituted a right of monopoly, as regarded this business, in his
favour and that of his tribe.

Nature’s last daily care, the star-spangled curtain of night, was drawn
around her tumultuous children, and we all retired from the scene of
strife; my injured hand paining me much less than I could have
anticipated. Ohmed Medina, Ebin Izaak, and fifteen or sixteen others,
were now engaged in chanting a noisy zekar, whilst Ohmed Mahomed,
supported by Moosa, sat in a large calahm of the Kafilah men and Hy
Soumaulee until long after midnight, arranging the offerings or presents
intended to be given as compensation to the injured in the late
conflict. The two dying Wahamas were lively enough upon this subject,
and although they could not join in the discussion, insisted on being
placed on two mats in the centre of the circle, instead of being
carried, as was proposed, to Herhowlee. Their case was first discussed,
and after a deal of arguing, five dollars’ worth of blue sood and a tobe
each, was received by them as satisfaction for their wounds, they
undertaking also to accompany us through their own country, on purpose
to obviate the effects of the evil reports it was expected their
friends, who ran away from the conflict, would spread. A drawback from
one of these wounded men was one dollar’s worth of sood, paid to Himyah
for the wound in his arm. The old man on whose account the quarrel
commenced had to pay for two spears and to receive one, in lieu of which
he consented to take one of the shields that had been thrown away by the
fugitives. In this manner all injured articles, every deep cut or
smallest bruise, was fairly balanced according to their ideas of the
market value of such commodities, against every kind of merchandise,
from a cow or sheep down to a handful of tobacco.

Long before this business was concluded, Zaido, who, in addition to his
other duties, was cashier to Ohmed Mahomed, had come to a conclusion
that our halt at Barradudah would be a very expensive one. Already he
had manufactured into the currency of the country one entire piece of
blue calico, and still fresh comers, demanding their compensation, kept
him measuring cubits with his fore arm, and then tearing each half
dollar’s worth away, with a wrench that seemed every time to dislocate
his heart. It was too dark to observe the expression of his countenance,
but, no doubt, it was dolorous in the extreme; if I could judge from his
sighs and often-repeated oaths, that “twenty times the value of all the
good the camels had received by their halt had been paid by him to men,
who”—here he muttered some scandal, I suppose, for he did not think it
expedient to whisper even to me, (he was sitting close under the side of
my hut,) his real opinion of the Bedouins, who had occasioned all the
tumult. Another trouble that disturbed his mind not a little, was the
great probability of our being obliged to pay all over again in the
Wahama country, the inhabitants of which, he was convinced, would be all
up in arms, to resent the insult and injury committed by us upon their
heralds.

I fell asleep at last, tired out with the excitement and noise, nor did
I awake the next morning, until roused by Zaido and the two Allees
walking away with the boxes of my hut, which were the only loads that
had yet to be placed upon the backs of the camels.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                              CHAPTER XIX.


Journey from Barradudda to Thermadullah, general direction south by
  west, time marching three hours and a-half.—Quarrel with Ras ul
  Kafilah.—Cooking scene.—Dankalli improvisatore.—_April 29th._ Staying
  at Thermadullah.—Camel saddles.—Stung by scorpion.—Cure.—Account of
  some neighbouring hot springs.


_April 28th._—We started from Barradudda by sunrise, travelling nearly
due south for the first two hours, and south-west for the remainder of
to-day’s journey. The road was all the way excellent, being over a dry
hard clay covered with high coarse grass, which was alive with hares,
floricans, and guinea-fowl. To the north and east were long continuous
lava plateaus, one portion of which formed the western boundary of Lake
Abhibhad, and beyond which Owssa was said to be at the distance of
twenty miles. In a wide fissure plain of this table-land, about fifteen
miles to the westward of Abhibhad, another long and narrow lake, called
Killaloo, terminated the river Wahahumbilla coming from the south, part
of which, in the direction of the lake, was visible from some situations
during our march this morning.

I took the opportunity when I saw Ohmedu and Ohmed Medina together, to
ask the latter if he had crossed over any stream when he went to Owssa
from Arabderah. As he replied that he had not, I recalled to Ohmedu’s
recollection that, when at Gobard, he said the river Wahahumbilla went
into the Hawash, just before this latter entered lake Abhibhad, but
which could not be the case, for if so, Ohmed Medina must have observed
it on the occasion of his late journey to Owssa. Ohmedu readily admitted
that he might be wrong, and I have therefore represented in my map the
river Wahahumbilla as terminating at Killaloo, although it is probable
that during very great floods that lake may overflow, and then
communicate with the river Hawash.

After travelling nearly four hours we arrived at a tree-covered valley
called Thermadullah, where we halted for the day. On our march I had an
opportunity of observing a family of Bedouins moving with all their
property, houses included, towards Killaloo in search of water. Seven
camels were laden with mats and the bamboo frames of the native wigwams.
The roof canes belonging to these rose, on each side of the animals,
with a long tapering curve behind, and high above them into the air. The
imagination easily furnished these with some light gossamer structure,
and in this manner suggested to itself a new poetical flying-machine,
vieing with the Pegasus of mythological fable. Besides the hut, each
camel bore a considerable amount of household furniture. Black
earthenware pots, contained in a kind of cage protectors made of some
flexible shrub; the family store of palm-leaves for the industrious
housewife to weave into mats, or to make the native rope; a few
handsome-looking baskets hung round with shells suspended from thongs;
and a child or two placed amidst the whole, or perched upon the top;
sometimes holding in its arms a noisy bleating kid or lamb that was too
young to walk with its dam. Some older children, boys and girls, quite
naked, assisted their mothers in driving before them the flocks of sheep
and goats. No men accompanied this party, but their absence was
accounted for, by their being engaged in tending a herd of some
thousands of oxen, whose dusty track I observed like a low red cloud
some miles in extent, about a league to the west of us.

We had ourselves three cows and several sheep and goats, the returns of
some little trading with the people of Herhowlee, who having bought from
different persons in the Kafilah a small quantity of tobacco, and a few
cubits of blue sood, had paid in kind for their purchases.

When Ohmed Mahomed engaged the Hy Soumaulee escort, he did not tell me
that part of the agreement was that they should have a bullock, or its
equivalent in sheep or goats, every second day. This I learnt from the
men themselves, who to-day came annoying me a great deal for the
performance of this part of the stipulation. On applying to Ohmed
Mahomed for an explanation, he said that they were justified in claiming
it, not from any promise he had made, but because the men of the
additional escort, the British Embassy had been necessitated to engage
on the road, always received a bullock to regale themselves with every
other day. He was exceedingly impertinent in reply to my observation
that I had no authority to incur such an additional expense, and which
might probably be considered to have been incurred unnecessarily on our
arrival in Shoa. He turned upon his heel, saying, loud enough to be
heard by the Hy Soumaulee, that I must pay for the bullocks, and was a
fool to raise a question about such a trifle, and that where I spent one
dollar the Embassy had expended one hundred; concluding, as he retired
beneath his shielding of mats, “Go away, go away, give the dollars, if
the English want the road the English must pay for it.” It was no use
quarrelling with him, to do which I felt exceedingly inclined, and it
would have been some satisfaction, to have discharged the shot of one
barrel of my carbine, into the bare posteriors of this black rascal,
exposed as he was whilst creeping into his retreat. My situation however
did not admit of such a display of feeling, and I retired to my hut to
consider upon some plan to prevent the extortion, which, under colour of
payment for these cattle, I considered at the time was being levied, to
make up for the heavy expenditure incurred, by the consequences of the
quarrel of yesterday. I never doubted but that his comparison, between
my expenses and those of the Embassy, was like his usual statements,
founded upon untruth. I was determined, therefore, not to be imposed
upon by Ohmed Mahomed, without letting him know that in the end, he
would be a much greater loser by his present system of extorting a few
dollars from me, by my withholding all commendation for care and
attention upon our arrival in Shoa.

Accordingly, towards evening, when the men came again demanding the
bullock, I accompanied them to the hut of Ohmed Mahomed, and asked him,
as if I had consented to their demand, what was the price of the animal.
As I expected, he asked a most unreasonable sum, no less than nine
dollars, two being the fair market price. I told him in reply, very
quietly, that he was no friend to the English, and that I should
consider him, therefore, no longer my Ras ul Kafilah, but that for the
future Ebin Izaak alone should transact all business with me; I also
gave him to understand that I should represent to the proper quarter the
treatment I had received, which would occasion a considerable diminution
in the amount of boxeish, or present, he would receive in Shoa. On
hearing this, he got immediately into a dreadful rage, stormed away, and
pushed by me out of the hut, as if bent “on purpose dire;” but hearing,
as I also jumped to my feet, the repeated warning click of both locks of
my carbine, he replaced his seized spear against the heap of salt-bags,
loudly complaining in his own language to Ohmed Medina and a crowd of
the Kafilah people, who, hearing words running very high, had come, all
armed, to hear what could be the matter. They kept at a very respectful
distance from me, some of them calling out they were my friends, for two
or three of the boldest had at first threatened me both by shouting and
shaking their spears; but, having taken on the first alarm a good
position among the camels, I managed to enact a sufficiently bold
bearing to deter them from a nearer approach, although my hopes just at
that moment were most recreant indeed.

After a little consultation, seeing I would not leave my camel-battery
to come to them, Ohmed Medina and Ebin Izaak left the crowd, and walking
some distance on one side, squatted down as they do in a calahm,
beckoning me to go to them. As these two were men, of whose friendly
intentions I could have no doubt, I joined them immediately, and we sat
talking and explaining matters for nearly an hour, when it was arranged,
that peace between Ohmed Mahomed and myself should be made in the usual
manner, and that we must both be good friends. For this purpose Ebin
Izaak brought Ohmed Mahomed into the little circle, the Fahtah, or
opening chapter of the Koran, was recited, and shaking hands, we each
repeated “Y’Allah abbi!” (God bless you!) and thus ended very
satisfactorily, an affair, which at one time had rather a serious
aspect.

We now entered upon the subject of providing food for the Hy Soumaulee.
I complained of the exorbitant price asked for the bullocks, and
proposed that I should give three dollars each, for those that would be
required. Ohmed Medina said, it was enough; so that business was also
settled. A laughing proposal was then made, to tie Ohmed Mahomed, during
the night, but I replied, that I had nothing to fear from him after the
Fahtah had been read, and with this compliment to the sacred character
of their oath, I got up, and retired to my hut.

In a very short time, my escort had slaughtered and flayed the bullock;
and, in expectation of a hearty meal, were quite happy. One half of them
lay in a line upon the ground, at the back of my hut, whilst the
remainder were busily employed, boiling the meat, at numerous little
wood fires, which occupied shallow holes, scraped with their fingers, in
the soil. Three stones, around each of these, supported large
earthenware pots; and the bubbling contents, and the sharp crackling
fuel told, that things were going on as satisfactorily as possible. Some
of the cooks, sitting on their heels, were amusing themselves, during
the process of the boiling, by picking the bones, from which the meat in
the pots had been cut. Their long knives, held close on one side the
face, as, with both hands, the bone was held most lovingly to the mouth,
glistened frequently in the blaze of the fires, when, with sudden
snatches, they detached with their teeth, the raw remnants of flesh that
still remained.

Somewhat amused with the scene, I took a stroll among the cooking fires,
and the recumbent escort; as I came near one of them, he, without
raising his head from the wooden pillow on which it rested, reached his
arm out, and rolling a stone nearer to him, patted it with his hand, and
calling out, “Ahkeem,” very politely invited me to take a seat by his
side. Here our conversation stopt; for, besides “How do you,” I did not
understand a word scarcely of their language. However, my presence was
the signal for a song; Carmel Ibrahim, my present entertainer, and chief
man of the Hy Soumaulee escort, commencing. An improvisatored chant, of
which, of course, I was the subject, was sung in alternate stanzas by a
noisy chorus, who followed Carmel’s dictation, something like a country
congregation, when, from the scarcity of books, the clerk, to
accommodate them, gives out two lines of the hymn at a time. I awaited,
very patiently, the termination of the song, which only ended when
supper was reported ready; music that moment lost its charm, and the
savage, good-humoured choristers bounded to their feet, and thronged
around the respective fires. The meat was taken out of the seething
pots, and placed in the dirty tobe of one of the party upon the ground,
and every one then helped himself. The supply of provisions being
plentiful, they had no fear that their appetites would not be satisfied,
so the best feeling prevailed amongst the party, each taking what he
thought sufficient for himself, and the greatest unanimity, as to eating
as much as ever they possibly could, characterized the entertainment.

Zaido, in an agony of mind at not finding me in the hut, now came
shouting in the dark for me, and on relieving his anxious fears about my
safety by reporting myself present, he quickly placed before me a bowl
heaped up with pieces of meat, placed upon a quantity of boiled wheat,
soaking in ghee. I made haste to do justice to his care; and in a short
time afterwards, he and the two Allees were finishing what remained.

Before I close the account of this day, I must observe, that the burn in
the palm of my hand troubled me very little indeed; the thick compact
skin having only been superficially scorched, and the slight
inflammation it excited, having quickly subsided, I felt but little
inconvenience from the wound.

_April 29th._—No start this morning, two camels being very ill,
according to Ohmed Mahomed’s account, who asserted, they would not be
able to proceed until the next day. Another name for our halting-place
was Alee-bakalee. In a retired spot, surrounded by trees, I found a
large sheet of water, which, according to all accounts I received, is to
be found here during the whole year. Returning after a very refreshing
bathe, I gathered a quantity of the Indian vegetable, and as all my rice
and biscuit were expended, this addition to my present meat diet was
very agreeable. Here I also shot a large adjutant bird, exactly similar
to those I have seen in Calcutta. In the afternoon, I employed myself
repairing the shattered boxes, which had not proved equal to the
continual knocking about they were exposed to, and to which the numerous
loadings and unloadings of the camels during the long march, contributed
not a little. Small barrels, with shut-up tops, would be best adapted
for the packing of stores so conveyed, and would suit much better the
ingenious, but simple camel-saddle used by the Dankalli.

This saddle consists of four strong staves, about four feet in length,
and as thick as a man’s wrist. Two of these are intended for each side
of the camel. At the distance of one-third from the upper end are fixed
small round pads of matting, stuffed with strips of the palm leaf. These
rest on the sides of the hump, and relieve this rather tender part from
the pressure of the load. The lower ends of the two staves on each side,
are bound together, but the upper extremities, above the pads, diverge
to the distance of a foot or eighteen inches; the staves of either side
are connected together by ropes carried over the pads.

A quantity of palm-leaf mats, six feet long, and three feet broad, are
first placed upon the back of the camel, and across these is thrown the
saddle. The two conjoined ends on either side are now fastened
underneath the belly, by a rope passing directly from the one to the
other, in a straight line. No girding, similar to the manner in which we
saddle horses is resorted to. The saddle being thus fixed, from the
projecting extremities of the staves, on one side is suspended the
burden that hangs upon the other, and thus, when properly adjusted, the
weight of the two burdens tends to tighten the rope beneath the belly of
the animal, and prevents the whole from shifting during the journey.
Another advantage derived from this kind of saddle is, that when the
camel lies down, the whole weight of the burden is lifted up from the
back, for the lower extremities of the staves come upon the ground
before the belly of the animal, and thus support the loads, whilst it
remains in that position. If proper attention be paid to the equal
distribution of weight on each side, when first loaded, the camel
marches the whole day without any danger of casting its burden, unless
the rope should happen to break, which connects the lower ends of the
staves of either side. Too frequently, the slaves of the owner neglect
this important duty, and I have observed with what difficulty, the
narrow body of the camel has been able to contend, against the unequal
pressure upon its sides. In such cases, if attention be not paid to its
loud moanings, and the restless movements of its head, when vainly
endeavouring to lift off the load from its back, the animal soon falls
to the ground, unwilling or unable to proceed farther, without a
readjustment of the loads.

The numerous ropes required in loading camels with the long narrow
salt-bags, are generally made of two plies of the thin portion of the
doom palm leaf, twisted in contrary directions with the hands, and then
allowed to twine naturally upon each other. Hempen ropes are preferred,
when they can be obtained; and several specimens were shown to me; that
had been manufactured by some Galla people to the south of the Hawash,
in the neighbourhood of Shoa.

I continued nailing the boxes, teaching Zaido the use of a hammer and a
nail-passer, when attempting to lift over one of the packages, I placed
my hand under its lower edge, and was suddenly made aware, by a severe
sting in the ball of my thumb, that some reptile had located itself
beneath. In an agony of anxious curiosity, I pushed over the box, and
then exposed to view a large scorpion, at least an inch and a-half in
diameter. The pain for the moment was intense, shooting rapidly along my
arm into the shoulder and neck, and as I had been taught to believe,
that the most serious consequences would arise from a wound of such a
description, I looked at it very seriously for a few moments, with all
the contentment of despair; the loss of all hope had made me more
tranquil than in my moral philosophy I had ever conceived would have
been the case. The pain, however, like sharp rheumatic touches, soon
called me back to reasonable expression, and excessive suffering made me
stamp again, causing Zaido and the others to laugh immoderately. They
made chase, however, after the reptile, which was hastily running off,
with his tail curved high over his back, and sting displayed, in a high
state of irritation, no doubt. It was very soon stopped by one of the
Allees dropping, after several attempts, the butt-end of his spear upon
it, and holding it down till Zaido, with the nail-passer, had amputated
the last joint of the tail, which supported the sting. He then took the
animal up, tore it ruthlessly into two pieces, and began to rub the
wound in my hand, with the ichorous-looking juice which, instead of
blood, appears to circulate through the animal. I was also comforted in
my mind by assurances that all would be well in an hour, for the knife,
as my friends called the sting, was a very small one.

I learnt from this occurrence, that the Dankalli do not consider the
sting of the scorpion of their country dangerous, and it is well that it
is not so, for they are found in any quantity underneath every large
stone. Sometimes on rolling one over, in the shallow depression of the
ground, I have noticed the entrance to a nest of these nauseous-looking
reptiles; and on removing a little of the soil, perhaps I should unearth
an old one as large as a crown-piece, semi-transparent, of a dirty,
mottled yellow colour, with about ten or a dozen young ones, like so
many huge spiders, running about in all directions, as if fully aware of
their situation, and that no endeavours would be spared to destroy the
whole family party.

As it is useful to observe coincidental ideas upon subjects somewhat
related, which are entertained by very different and distinct nations, I
may be allowed to remark the resemblance between the remedy on this
occasion, and which was quite sufficient for the cure, and that which is
adopted by the lower orders in Scotland at the present time, to
counteract the effects of the bite of a viper. It is usual among them to
kill and flay the reptile, and the moist inner surface of the skin is
then well rubbed over the wound, as were the separated portions of the
scorpion in my case by the Dankalli.

The pain in my hand not subsiding immediately, I thought it prudent to
retreat into my hut, bidding Zaido to bring my gun, hammer, nails, &c.
Ohmed Medina came to amuse me, and told some long tales of the numerous
Jinn that haunted the country, which, however, must be understood to
mean the volcanic phenomena, which are continually altering the surface
level of the country of Adal. A very famous residence of a large
community of these Jinn, Ohmed Medina stated to be about two days’
journey towards the north-east, before we came to the river Hawash in
that direction. The name of the place was Ta’hou, and the caravan route,
from Owssa to Gondah, passed close to the neighbourhood of this evil
spot, the principal features of which, I was given to understand, were,
several boiling springs, a few yards distance from each other, that
threw up columns of hot water and vapour, several feet high. Around the
borders of these steam fountains a large quantity of a very white stone
is found. From this circumstance, I inferred, that they were of the same
character as the geysers of Iceland, depositing, like them, a thick bed
of silex around their apertures.

Ohmed Medina left me, to perform the usual vesper adorations before and
after sunset. By the time he had finished, and returned to ask how the
wound in my hand felt, I had almost forgotten the circumstance, for the
pain had subsided, and the sting had left no trace of a wound.

When I retired to rest, the remainder of the bullock left uncooked the
evening before, was being prepared by my hungry escort. The Dankalli, as
far as I could observe, make but one regular meal a day, and that after
sunset. They eat, certainly, at any other time, when anything is put
before them, but this is very irregular, and considered only as an
extraordinary indulgence.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                              CHAPTER XX.


Journey from Thermaduddah to Alee-bakalee, general direction, south by
  west, time marching, one hour.—_May 1st._ Journey from Alee-bakalee to
  Hasanderah, general direction, south-west, time marching, eight
  hours.—Dankalli naturalists.—Large herd of cattle— Architectural
  labours.—Mahomedan popular superstitions.—Sale of children.—A Bedouin
  father.


_April 30th._—We left Thermaduddah this morning by sunrise, making a
short march to the southward, across a narrow plain covered with grass,
and bordered by low banks of a stony character, but, upon which, the
myrrh, the mimosa, and aditu trees, grew to a respectable size. The name
of our halting-place for the day was Alee-bakalee, which appeared to be
the name of a stream that occasionally, at the time of the rains, flows
to the northward into the Killaloo Lake; and the representative of
which, at this time, was the water I bathed in yesterday, and which, I
now recollected, was called by the same name.

For a little paper distributed to those I employed, I soon had a small
party of market-gardeners collecting the “Hashish,” the Arab name for
the green food of cattle (and which, the Bedouins of the Kafilah had
applied to my Indian vegetable Bargee),[4] here found in great plenty.
Several shields-full were quickly laid in my plaid before me, and taking
as much as I required for myself, I bestowed the remainder upon my mule.
She seemed as highly pleased with the treat as myself, and eat away, as
if her family physician had recommended it as a preventive for the
scurvy, which her present idle life seemed to predispose her to.

Footnote 4:

  A kind of spinage.

The day was rather poor in incident. I lay in my hut reflecting upon the
probabilities of my reaching Shoa alive; and projecting, in case I did,
very extensive journeys into the interior from that kingdom, as a
starting-place. In the evening, I and the two Allees, went after some
guinea-fowl, but only shot one, and a hare. The latter, I found, was
useless, for a somewhat similar objection is entertained by Mahomedans
to this animal, as among the Jews, by whom it is considered to be
unclean.

After I had lain down to sleep, a large calahm was held, in which, the
escort and the Kafilah men all joined. Two sheep had then to be killed
for the escort; so that it was nearly midnight, before their day’s meal
was prepared for them. The calahm had some reference to the two Wahamas,
who were wounded at Barradudda, and who, after the agreement to
accompany us, were found unable to do so, and had been taken back to
Herhowlee. The question discussed was, whether we should remain until
they were well enough to join us, or go on at once, and take our chance,
with respect to the resentment of their tribe. I was not sorry that it
was determined to proceed; and from that day I became of considerable
consequence, for my presence with firearms had principally induced the
chief men of the Kafilah to consent to the impatient onward move of the
Hy Soumaulee, who, having no property to lose, had no objection to
accelerate the crisis; suspense, to them, being a most intolerable bore.
They soon found out that I shared the same feeling with them, for I was
getting heartily tired, of my sojourn in the wilderness; and the
poetical sentiment,

              “Oh! that the desert was my dwelling-place,”

now found no echo in the wishes, or desires, of my heart. Frequently did
they solicit Ohmed Medina to start off with me, and accompanied by them,
leave the Kafilah to come on afterwards, however it could; and, for fear
I might be influenced by such requests, Ohmed Mahomed became as polite
as possible; and found (quite by accident, of course, but very much to
my delight) a large goat-skin bag full of rice, which he very gravely
asserted had not formed any part of my own store, but was some of his
friend Himyah’s, who was taking it up as a present to the frontier
governor of Efat, the Wallasma Mahomed, but, at his request, Himyah had
given it to him, for me. This was brought to me at night, to avoid
observation; and, although, I thought it to be in this case, quite
unnecessary, the same caution was exhibited, as on all other occasions
of sale, or of making presents. So as not to excite the cupidity of the
Bedouins, nothing like the delivery of any property occurs during the
day. Among these wily and suspicious people, every thing of that kind
changes hands, under the convenient cover of the darkness of night.

_May 1st._—At sunrise, we were up and off; and if I complained,
yesterday, of the short march, to-day, had I not felt more pleased, than
otherwise, with the progress we made, I might with equal reason, have
objected to the length of our journey, being eight hours travelling, and
all the way on foot. The road was very good, with but few inequalities
of surface, as we continued following the dry watercourse of
Alee-bakalee, which appeared to contract as we advanced.

The appearance of the country that we passed through was, as might be
expected, very uniform, the whole way; a beautiful long valley,
extending in a general direction, from the south-west towards the
north-east. A rich alluvial soil was thinly strewn with a few dark
coloured fragments of the lava ridges which formed the boundaries
towards the east and west. Grass was very plentiful; and the trees so
thick, as in some parts, to assume the appearance of a wood. Enormous
ant-hills showed their red tops between the summits of the low trees,
and numerous herds of several different kinds of antelope were feeding
all around. At length, the lava ridges on either side seemed to approach
each other, and we reached a confined valley, through which flowed a
narrow stream, winding among thick clumps of very high trees. Birds of
the most brilliant plumage, and gorgeously tinted butterflies, made the
road one continued cabinet gallery of all that is rare and beautiful, in
the colours which are most admired, in these painted favourites of
nature.

Some Dankalli naturalists, who wanted a few red tail feathers to
ornament their greasy locks, made a requisition for me to supply them,
pointing to my gun, and then to the birds; but I would not understand
them in any other way than my own, and so nodding very good humouredly,
I told them to remain where they were; and going a few yards from the
road, fired into a busy-pecking crowd of guinea-fowl, bringing back with
me a brace of very fine ones; birds, however, which, to the great
disappointment of my Dankalli fashionable friends, were found to have
scarcely any more tail feathers than they had themselves.

We should have halted two hours before we did, at the very commencement
of the valley of Hasanderah Kabeer, as the little stream was called, but
that we there found it filled with an immense herd of cattle, through
which we marched, as if in a long-extended Smithfield market, for at
least five miles. I had not imagined such vast herds to have been in the
possession of the Dankalli Bedouins. The number of men required to
attend them was very great, and afforded me an explanation, why I had
met with so few upon the journey; their chief employment being to
protect their cattle, with whom they constantly remain. The elders only
indulge in the domestic comforts found in the kraal, and are supported
chiefly by the produce of the flocks of sheep and goats, which during
the day are placed under the care of the children.

The young men and women follow the herds; the former lie idly under the
trees during the heat of the day, whilst the latter perform the duties
of milking and of making the ghee or fluid butter. Churning is performed
by the milk being placed in large skin bags, suspended upon the hips by
a leathern thong passed over the shoulders and across the breasts. A
quick semi-rotary movement of the trunk continually agitates the
contents, until the butter is formed in soft white lumps; it is then
taken out with the hand as it collects upon the surface of the milk, and
is placed into lesser skins, where in a few hours it assumes the
appearance of a light yellow oily fluid, the ghee of the Berberah
market, from whence it is exported in great quantities to India and the
Persian Gulf.

The cattle of Adal are nearly all of one colour, a kind of brindled iron
grey, with moderately sized horns, curving first outwards, then
forwards, and upwards.

Our Kafilah having reached the farther extremity of Hasanderah Kabeer,
we found a clear open spot where grass and water were equally abundant
as along the whole line of our march to-day. Trees of greater altitude,
and with a thicker shade than any I had seen before, invited us to that
rest which we all needed, after our long march of nearly twenty miles.
Our pedestrian party had outstripped the camels above two hours, and
were nearly all asleep, when the leading files of these gaunt, sober
stepping animals, paced their serpentine course among the thick bushes
of wild cotton, and of a tree, that reminded me exceedingly of our
hazel, by its foliage and general character. The camels were not so
fatigued as I expected they would be, but the late halts and short
marches, in a country so abounding with vegetation, had enabled them to
recruit their strength, almost worn out by the hardships and their
scanty food, during the journey through the wilderness of stones between
Tajourah and Herhowlee. They were glad enough, however, I dare say, on
their arrival at Hasanderah; for, too impatient to wait for farther
attendance, after the loads and saddles were removed, these sagacious
animals soon swept off, with their nose and cheek, the numerous chafing
mats which are placed below the saddle to prevent abrasions and ulcers
on the hump, to which they are very liable.

One good effect was produced by a long march; that was the freedom from
importunity I enjoyed, for all the Bedouins and Kafilah men seemed
determined to take, immediate advantage of the shady accommodations of
this “hotel verte,” or in plain English, this extensive “bush inn.” I
obliged myself, tired as I was, to build my own hut rather than seek a
bower, where others would throng, greatly to my discomfort; and
something of a conscience told me that Zaido and the Allees, after
unloading the two-and-twenty camels belonging to their master, Ohmed
Mahomed, would require rest as well as myself. My architectural
occupation attracted the attention of the chief of the escort, Carmel
Ibrahim, and he, very good-naturedly, came to assist me, so that by our
joint labours, and his excellent suggestions, a box-house was
constructed, the most convenient I had yet occupied, for the boxes, on
previous occasions placed close together, were now arranged with spaces
between, that admitted both light and air.

At sunset, when the camels were to be brought in for the night, Ohmed
Medina and a party, principally of Tajourah people, came to get some
coffee with me, which was quickly prepared by Zaido; who, on a little
fire made of camel-dung and dried sticks, had soon the long-necked vase
of coarse red earthenware, in which the social inspiring berry was
boiled. The only cup we had was fairly circulated, whilst another
discussion upon religion was entered upon, nearly of the same character
as our previous one.

The party had come with the intention of converting me, but they were
all disappointed, for I proved that my religion was founded upon truth,
and that they themselves believed every principle of faith I did. My
reason for not going so far as they did, as to receive the Koran as the
Word of God, was because my book, the New Testament, did not testify to
the truth of Mahomed’s mission, as their’s did to that of Jesus. This
plea, however, was met by a curious tirade against Poulos (St. Paul),
the only one of the apostles that the Mahomedans appear to have any
knowledge of, and him they charge with having falsified the Gospels, by
striking out the name of Mahomed wherever it appeared. I have since
learned, that all the foundation they have for this accusation is the
circumstance of one of the forms of the name Mahomed, “Ohmed” having the
same signification in Arabic as the Greek word παρακλητος. Comforter,
one of the designations of the Holy Ghost, and the coming of which was
certainly promised by Christ.

A long afternoon was occupied discussing this subject, and during the
conversation, my Islam friends exhibited the greatest politeness, never
interrupting me as I stammered away in bad Arabic, until some one of
them, comprehending my meaning, immediately interpreted it more fully to
the rest; and as I understood a good deal more than I could speak, I was
always able to know whether they had caught my idea or not. Neither
proud intolerance, or obstinate bigotry, occasioned one hasty or
disparaging expression. All sat in their usual silent manner whilst
another spoke, squatting upon their heels, which, in order to be more
comfortable, as it was a lengthy debate, were raised a little by two
small stones, placed for that purpose beneath them. The same courtesy
marked all the friendly conversations I had with them. During this
morning’s march, Ohmed Medina, in a joking manner, said, that the
English were not a nation of men like themselves, but a nation of women,
because they allowed themselves to be governed by a Queen. I retorted by
saying, that the fact was, “that the English women were as strong as the
Dankalli men.” A remark which Ohmed Medina immediately translated into
their language, much to the amusement of the Hy Soumaulee around, who
did not seem in the least annoyed by the freedom of the comparison.

_May 2d._—A slight shower fell, not sufficient to come through the roof
of my hut, but it rendered the ground so muddy that we were obliged to
remain where we were for this day. Another large herd of cattle had
passed us during the night, going to Killaloo, and their footmarks
contributed in a great measure to the bad condition of the ground.
Several of the women belonging to the herd had staid behind, and brought
into our camp some skins of milk for sale, receiving tobacco in
exchange. An old man also arrived early in the morning, having travelled
all night, hearing that we were in the neighbourhood, to obtain some
information respecting his two daughters, who, six months before, had
gone with a Kafilah down to Tajourah. Not hearing anything to his
satisfaction from my companions, he came to me, dragging with him a kid,
which he presented to me, begging that I would look into my book, and
give him some account of his missing daughters. He had heard, he said,
that they had been very ill, and he only desired to know if they were
dead or had got better. The old man, savage as he was, did credit to our
nature, from the anxiety and love he evinced for his offspring; and the
sorrow he showed was an anomaly to me I could not understand, for I had
made up my mind, that the Dankalli could not be charged with any
constitutional weakness, as regards the influence of domestic
attachments or family ties; here was an evidence to the contrary, and I
record it for the benefit of any one, who may be better able than
myself, to reconcile such differences of character among these
interesting people.

Many of the Dankalli Bedouins do certainly sell their female children.
Garahmee, as I have before observed, had thus disposed of three, and
Moosa of two daughters, and on more than one occasion I had offered to
me for sale, girls from ten to fourteen years old, at the price of about
four or five dollars each. In merchandise, the value of a really
handsome slave girl, appears much more trifling than when paid for in
hard dollars, as six or seven cubits of blue sood, worth about two
shillings in England, is a more than sufficient temptation to induce
even a mother to part with her child. These bargains, I observed, were
always transacted with the female relatives, but the returns, I was
told, were generally handed over to the fathers or brothers. The girls
were frightened to death at the idea of being sold to me, but seemed
happy enough to leave their desert homes in search of fortunes
elsewhere, with masters of their own colour; and both parents and
children, in these business transactions, supported themselves most
stoically, although on the eve of being separated for ever.

With respect to the old man’s daughters, Ohmed Mahomed, who acted as
interpreter between us, practised a somewhat similar trick upon me as he
did at Sagagahdah, when he passed Mahomed Murkee upon me for Mahomed
Allee. Whilst I was in Tajourah, I was frequently called in to people
who were sick, and, among others, to a number of young slave girls
belonging to Abu Bukeree, one of the chief men of the town. These
children were suffering from an epidemic that took off a great number,
and Ohmed Mahomed asserted that two of them were the children of the old
man; and at the moment, forgetting his duplicity on the former occasion,
I added my testimony to the fact of their illness and death, and the old
man turned away in tears. After he was gone, and I was again alone,
Zaido, in this triumph of the deceitful policy of his master, now came,
and expecting me to express my approbation of the cleverness displayed,
told me that the girls were quite well, and perhaps sold at Mocha by
that time. I now saw the little trick that Ohmed Mahomed had again
practised upon me, and feeling exceedingly annoyed at having been so
impudently made the tool of an unprincipled slave-dealer, I was almost
inclined to go after Ohmed Mahomed, and, in despite of all consequences,
tell him to his face he was a dishonest man; but, on second thoughts,
considered it would be a more prudent course, as I could not remedy the
injury done, to let things remain as they were; especially, as the old
man would probably be more contented with the idea of their death, than
if he were made aware of the real truth of the matter.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                              CHAPTER XXI.


Purchase of some tobacco, with remarks on its use among the
  Dankalli.—Make cover for hat.—Conversation with Ohmed Mahomed.—_May
  3_, Journey from Hasanderah to Bundurah.—General direction, S.W. by
  W.—Time marching seven hours.—Singular effect of refraction.—Joined by
  party of Issah Soumaulee; description of their appearance and
  arms.—Affectionate inquiries of Kafilah friends.—Description of
  halting-place and country around Bundurah.


SEVERAL applications for tobacco to-day determined me to purchase from
Ohmed Medina three pounds, for which I gave only three dollars, the most
reasonable price that was ever asked me, for any commodity I required
during the journey. Over the presents intended for the road I had no
command whatever, they having been placed in the charge of Ohmed Mahomed
before we left Tajourah; and he took such especial care of them that the
three skin bags full of handkerchiefs, coloured cottons, and white
calico cloth, were untouched when we arrived in Shoa. All the presents
required, were supplied from a stock of blue cloth and tobes, he had
purchased at Berberah, and which he took care to charge to the Commander
in Shoa (the British Ambassador) at the price of three dollars each
tobe, and of ten dollars the piece of blue sood, much to his great gain
and emolument. At the same time, the cunning fellow expected at the end
of our journey, to have given to him all the original and much more
valuable presents, as a kind of perquisite belonging to his office as
Ras ul Kafilah.

Tobacco, in all its forms, is eagerly sought for by the Dankalli; their
constant asking for it is one of the principal annoyances a traveller
experiences in passing through Adal. A very little, however, sends the
sturdy beggars away quite satisfied, and if it were not for the numbers
of them, their moderate expectations would be a source of amusement, for
a thimbleful is received with a great deal more thankfulness than a
handful, which, if bestowed, they look at with a kind of feeling, that
if you can afford to give so much, there is no harm done in asking you
for a little more.

The sort of tobacco I saw most general among these people was the dried
leaf, unprepared in any other manner than by mere exposure to the sun
after being gathered. The Bedouins used it rudely crushed between the
fingers, and well mixed up with an equal quantity of fine wood ashes.
This rough powder is placed between the cheek and the lower jaw, where
it forms a large lump, which is allowed to remain until all the bitter
or active principle of the mass is extracted. It makes a most unsightly
protuberance, just above and on one side of the chin, and occasions a
continual ejection of saliva, which, as it is cast only upon the earth,
is less objectionable than a similar indulgence when committed in the
more civilized resorts of men, as, for example, in the drawing-rooms of
the less fastidious of our Transatlantic brethren.

The people of Tajourah manufacture this tobacco into snuff by first
scorching the leaf, and then triturating it between two stones,
something in the same manner as paint is ground in England. Some of the
Dankalli tribes, among which are the Assobah, and Omah Battah’s family
of the Sidee Ahbreu, are remarkable for their abstinence from the use of
this intoxicating herb, an indulgence in which, by any individual
belonging to either of these tribes would be followed by his
assassination. These people may have derived this prejudice from some
early connexion with the Christian Church of Abyssinia, one canon of
which interdicts the use of tobacco among its communicants. I suspected
also that it might have arisen from the exhortation of some of their
more respected Sheiks, who had learnt the existence of a similar
abstinence from tobacco, practised by the modern Islam sect termed
Whaahbee. On inquiry, however, I found that the Dankalli had rejected
its use long before the appearance of these Unitarians of South Arabia.
I may observe that the Whaahbee found their objection to the use of
tobacco, upon some commandment contained in the Koran, that says “no
property shall be consumed in fire,” which they contend is the case when
smoking is indulged in, and that consequently, it is a crime of scarcely
less atrocity than downright arson.

Tobacco in the form of snuff is used, however, by all the tribes, and I
have myself seen the Chief of the Sidee Ahbreu snuffing greedily a large
quantity up his nose whilst he was telling me, with a great deal of
self-satisfaction, that the use of tobacco was a capital crime among his
people. This luxury is kept in a little bag, or pouch, made of two
pieces of fine gut, stretched and dried in the sun, and then sewed
together. What little snuff they can get possession of is carefully
deposited in this; it is then folded up several times one way, and
placed between the scabbard of their knife and the thongs that secure it
to their girdle. “Surat,” the name of snuff in the Dankalli language,
indicates the place on the coast of India from whence was imported the
first that came into Adal.

I was much amused by a comparison memory suggested, between the Dankalli
of the present day, and the beggars for tobacco in the south of
Galloway, in Scotland, not one hundred years ago, where a traveller of
that day relates of the inhabitants, “that they are for the most part
great chewers of tobacco, and are so addicted to it that they will ask
for a piece thereof from a stranger as he is riding on his way, and
therefore let not a traveller want an ounce or two of roll tobacco in
his pocket, and for an inch or two thereof he need not fear the want of
a guide by day or night.” This relation so accords with the practices of
the Dankalli Bedouins, that supposing freedom from any attack is assured
by the protection of some powerful chief, all other services and
attention required during a sojourn amongst them, may be commanded by
following the recommendation of the worthy traveller in Galloway.

During the day I managed to make a new covering for my hat, for in
passing beneath and among the thorny mimosas, the old one had been torn
to rags. Having to get out a shirt to cut up for the necessary material,
such a collection of my escort and Kafilah men that gathered around my
hut, I never saw, and snatching for the buttons, or begging for the
remnants, they left me little more than barely sufficient for my
purposes, and, in fact, I was obliged to purchase back, for a couple of
needles, part of one of the sleeves, to finish my task in a creditable
manner. Everything I required to perform this, my needles, my thread,
the white tape binding, and the last shreds of the shirt, were
distributed fairly among the admiring mob, before I could get them away.

Ohmed Medina, whilst at prayers this evening, without moving from the
mat upon which he performed his prostrations, called me to bring my gun
to have a pot shot at some guinea-fowl, that were roosted for the night,
in the branches of an aditu tree very near to the camp. Having only one
barrel loaded with shot, the other containing a ball I sent the latter,
first among the crowd of birds, not above twenty yards from me, and
killed three, following it up by pouring in the shot, which brought down
four more of the scared fugitives.

All had their throats cut before they were quite dead, each bird having
three or four assistant executioners to settle its business, although
numbers rather delayed than accelerated the operation, which Ohmed
Medina consecrated, by bawling out from his prayer-mat the necessary
“Allah achbar!” “Allah achbar!”

Ohmed Mahomed, who had become very civil the last day or two, visited my
hut in the evening, and I had some conversation with him relative to our
starting the next day, and sounded his intentions by remarking, that
here was plenty of forage and excellent water. “Good, Good,” replied
Ohmed, pointing to the camels; and then, with hands spread some distance
from his stomach, intimated how well distended the animals seemed to be
with food. I shook my head, telling him I was very sorry to see it, for
where forage was abundant, there our stay was sure to be long. Ohmed
Mahomed, to close the dialogue, and get away, responded, “Ehwah, ehwah”
(yes, yes); “Jimel, big-belly,” making signs; “Jimel, carry big box.
Jimel, little-belly,” screwing himself up. “Jimel, carry marfish”
(nothing). The English of all this, it must be understood, was
pantomimic; and a pretty good idea may be drawn from this little scene,
of the manner in which conversations were carried on, between me and
some of my companions.

_May 3d._—Long before sunrise this morning, I was awoke by the hoarse
voice of Ohmed Mahomed, as he stood upon one of the boxes, giving the
usual loud cry, as a signal for starting. For some reason or other, it
had been arranged that the Hy Soumaulee and myself, instead of preceding
the Kafilah, as had been customary, should now remain until the very
last camel had moved off the ground. Ohmed Mahomed was, perhaps, not
quite sure, but that we might give him the slip, and push on for Shoa,
without waiting for him.

After I had booted and belted, I retired to a large stone with my
carbine in my hand, where I sat until the camels were all loaded, and,
one after the other, in detached strings of six or eight, led by a
slave, the long rope halter thrown over one shoulder, and his spear on
the other, were stalking solemnly along the winding path among the
clumps of trees, which now hid them for a moment or two from the view,
and between which they then again appeared, until lost altogether to
sight among the distant foliage.

Whilst I was sitting, I had an opportunity of observing a singular
effect of mirage upon the summit of a long low ridge, that formed one of
the sides of the valley of Hasanderah. It evidently depended upon the
refraction of the rays of light passing through a stratum of air, in
which was suspended or contained a considerable quantity of the vapour
of water, and which, of less specific gravity than the air itself, was
rising from the damp earth in this neighbourhood. On the top of the
ridge, standing in high relief, from the grey sky behind him, was a
Bedouin, who, of gigantic proportions, seemed to be quite as tall as a
very high tree, which was growing near to where he stood. I looked at
him with astonishment; and thought of the enemy described by Ossian’s
frightened scout,—“I saw their chief, tall as a rock of ice; his shield
the rising moon, his spear a blasted pine;” of so enormous a size, was
the figure and arms of this supernatural-looking being. Feeling assured
that it must be some unusual phenomenon, rather than anything real, I
left my seat to examine more closely the unmoving bronze colossus upon
the height. A short walk soon proved to me that I was not wrong in my
idea of the real character of this appearance, for I found that the tall
tree, on my approach, sunk into a low mimosa bush, scarcely five feet
high, and the tall giant reduced himself, to the form of my Hy Soumaulee
friend, Carmel Ibrahim, who was waiting very leisurely a little apart,
like myself, the departure of the Kafilah.

When the word was given for us to start after the camels, I mounted my
mule, and travelled at a pace that suited her exactly, being about seven
hours marching fourteen miles. We soon ascended from the valley of
Hasanderah, and passing over the ridge, emerged into a very extensive
treeless plain, where were numerous denuded bases of small volcanic
cones, the remains of which consisted of stratified concentric circles
of black lava, just appearing above the surface of the ground. The
diameters of the numerous instances of this peculiar geological
structure, I passed during the day, varied from fifteen to thirty yards.
Grass was everywhere abundant. Numerous sand-pillars moved along before
and behind us; sometimes, as many as twenty, or even thirty, appearing
in sight at once. They varied considerably in form, from that of an
upright exact column to that of an inverted trumpet, sustained at an
angle of 50° from the horizon.

On our march we were overtaken by four men, whom, Ohmed Medina, on
seeing, instantly pointed out to me as being Issah Soumaulee. That they
differed in some respects from the Dankalli, was obvious, at first
sight; but this was most strikingly apparent in the character of their
arms. In the first place, they carried neither spears nor shields,
instead of these, having light bows and rather bulky quivers, which hung
under the left arm, from the shoulder of the same side, by broad
leathern bands. In the belt of untanned hide, which secured the fotah,
or cloth, around the waist, they had each an old rusty knife in a
worn-out scabbard, and scarcely eight inches long. The rude hilts of
these weapons were merely round bits of wood, hollowed between the ends
for the grasp of the hand.

In the long frizzly character of their hair, and in the colour of their
skin, they resembled the Dankalli, with whom their stature, and the
general character of their features, also accorded. At the present day,
the Dankalli and Soumaulee are distinct, as nations; but, the great
similarity of their language, of their customs, and their indistinct
separation, in the various tribes that border on this road to Abyssinia,
and which made it therefore a most interesting one, prove them to have
descended from one common origin, the Avalites of ancient geographers.

Some modification in the character of these ancient people, has been
occasioned by intermixture with other nations, which has produced a
difference in personal appearance. In the north, acted upon by the
Grecian and Egyptian colonists, who made that part of the country of the
Avalites, a rich and populous kingdom. Their representatives at the
present day, the Dankalli, have assumed, or retained, the Circassian
type; whilst in the south and west, their long intercourse with
Shankalli tribes, have given somewhat of the character of the Negro to
the more southern Soumaulee and the inland Galla.

The bows of the Soumaulee are of the most classical shape, having a
central depression, between two curved arms, at the extremities of
which, the strong catgut string is fastened. Instead, as in the bows
best known to us, the middle portion of the string being at the greatest
distance from the centre, in those used by the Soumaulee, this part of
the string actually rests upon the wood in that situation, and each time
the arrow is discharged, strikes the back of the left thumb of the
archer, with great force. Thinking I should not be aware of this, Ohmed
Medina, as a practical joke, put one of the bows into my hand, and
requested me to bend it; with a very great effort I effected this, but
took care to let the string down gently, with a knowing kind of wink,
which made them all laugh at seeing me up to the little trick intended.
The quivers were made of a long cucumber-kind of gourd-shell, but quite
straight, with a parchment cover, which fitted like the top of a large
pill-box. Inside were contained ten or twelve arrows, about a foot long,
made of a thin hollow reed. These were each armed with a broad head of
blue steel, the shape and size of the ace of spades, attached to a
nail-like spike, one inch and a-half long, which, when the arrow was to
be used, was thrust into a deep hole, down one extremity. The lower end
of the shaft was feathered, as usual, for the purpose of steadying it in
its flight. When such a weapon is discharged, and strikes the game, the
endeavours which are made, by the animal to escape, occasion the head to
become detached from the reed, which falls to the ground, whilst the
former remains in the wound; and as it is loaded with a black mass of
vegetable poison, the absorption of this into the system, soon
terminates the life of the animal. I had no opportunity, nor has any
other traveller, I believe, of identifying the plant, which supplies
this poison, with the “Euphorbia Antiquorum,” of botanists. I do not
think it inhabits the low country of the basin of the Hawash; for the
Soumaulee told me, they obtained it from the South of Hurrah; and as
this city stands upon the highland, where commences the water-shed of
the river Whabbee, to the south, I should suppose, that the poison
plants of the Soumaulee will not be determined, until some traveller has
visited that locality.

The party who joined us on the road, had just before succeeded in
killing an ostrich, and each possessed a small parcel of the feathers.
These were preserved in portions of the gut of the bird, cleaned and
dried in the sun, through which, the feathers were carefully drawn, in
the direction of the plumage, so as not to disarrange it. Besides these,
contained in the parcels, they had others tied in a bunch, which they
freely distributed among my escort, all of whom in a very short time
were decorated, with one stuck at the back of their coarse, black,
frizzly hair, over which curled the light, white, dancing feather, with
very good effect, and in excellent keeping with the rest of the picture
of savage life, our road presented.

One was given to me, but as I could not conveniently carry it in my hat,
I secured it for the present, in the head-stall of my mule’s bridle; and
the toilet of the whole party being finished, and our introduction to
the Soumaulee concluded, we parted, and proceeded on our different ways;
we, in the direction that the Kafilah had taken, whilst the strangers
continued on their way in the direction of Owssa.

We were moving on, Ohmed Medina, by the side of my mule, talking all the
way about the wars of the several tribes of the Dankalli, between
themselves, and the Galla living on the banks of the Hawash. The Hy
Soumaulee, in lines of six or seven, kept pacing away after us; each
extended party listening to one of their number who was giving a very
energetic relation of some late personal rencontres, in which he had
been engaged. So occupied, were all, with the conversations of each
other, that none but myself heard a distant shout from the rear, and
turning, on my mule, I made out the running figure of a man, whose
spear-head, even at the distance he was, glanced brightly in the sun’s
light, and enabled me to decide that the approaching object was really a
native, and on my directing attention, we all stopt for him to come up.
He turned out to be an old acquaintance, Garahmee, whom I had begun to
think had deserted us altogether. He had been two days on the journey,
to overtake the Kafilah, travelling principally in the night; and had
intended to have halted this day at Hasanderah. Finding, on his arrival
there, traces of our departure very recent, he determined to push on at
once, and our staying to converse with the Issah Soumaulee, had enabled
him to come up with us, before half the day’s march had been performed.
Although I had no great love for the cunning old rascal, I thought it
would be prudent to be polite to him, so I dismounted, and proposed,
that as he must be very tired, he should ride; at the same time pointing
to the head of the mule, directed his attention to the feather placed
there, as if it had been saved only for him.

After a little delay, we were again on our march, and soon overtook the
rearmost camels, but as we walked much faster, gradually left them all
behind. As I came up, the conductor of every fresh string, or the owner,
walking by the side of his own beast, vociferated, “Ahkeem,” “Ahkeem,”
as if our long separation, two hours before, must have obliterated all
remembrance of them out of my memory, and they wished to receive some
comfort and an assurance to the contrary, by my bawling out, in reply,
their respective names, with an affectionate inquiry after their health.
One good thing was, that among them Mahomed seemed to be a part of every
master’s name, for if it were not Ohmed Mahomed it was almost sure to be
Mahomed Ohmed, whilst the slaves all answered either to Allee or Zaido,
so there was not much chance of being wrong. They were also a
good-humoured set, for they were sure to laugh if I hit upon the right
name, and a great deal more so, if I were wrong; but as remembering a
man is as little attention as we possibly can pay to any one who acts
courteously to us, I took care to flatter them when I could, by saluting
my companions by their proper names.

We halted at a place called Bundurah, the elevated apex of a large
triangular plain, the base of which to the south was formed by the
Oburah range of hills, inhabited by the Alla Galla. Bundurah appeared to
have been the central point of some extensive elevatory movement of the
surface of the earth in this situation, as several long low ridges of
lava radiated from it, especially to the north. To the west were also a
great number of small volcanic cones, some of which looked like craters,
but too distant for me to examine them. The plain was bare of trees, but
abounded in grass and a plant of the mint species, like bergamot, which
diffused a very fragrant odour.

We found here several Bedouins of the Wahama tribe, and the object of
keeping me in the rear with the Hy Soumaulee escort was now obvious, for
we entered, it seemed, to-day, the territories of these people whom we
had every reason to expect would receive us in an hostile manner. It
was, therefore, to protect the weak and straggling camels, who would be
most likely to be attacked, if they were left behind without guard, that
we had remained at Hasanderah so long after the Kafilah had started this
morning.

Bundurah was not, strictly speaking, Wahama territory, but a kind of
debateable land, which extended to our next halting-place, Kuditee. The
Hy Soumaulee contend that this district belongs to them, and on this
plea the people of Tajourah raised their objection to the Wahama
Kafilahs coming to their port, for, possessing no country upon the line
of road to Shoa, it was argued the proper point for the Wahama to
communicate with foreign markets ought to be Zeilah. The Wahama,
however, being the largest of all the Dankalli tribes, and the Hy
Soumaulee the least, the latter are not able to contend the matter with
them, and are obliged to submit to the usurpation they have no means of
preventing; whilst the Tajourah people dare not refuse to the Wahama the
convenience of their town for mercantile purposes, or most assuredly
their road to Shoa would be closed by this powerful tribe.

Those whom we met at Bundurah had only arrived the day before, having
been to the south of Errur with an expedition against the Alla Galla,
who occupy the country between the Wahama and Hurrah. They had heard
nothing about the quarrel at Herhowlee, and were very well disposed to
be on good terms with us. One of our new friends displayed above his
hair a white ostrich feather, and around his neck, wrist, and ankles,
were small twisted strips of goat-skin, he having killed a Galla during
the expedition. The boss of his shield, the handle of his knife, and the
head of his spear, were also bound round with knots of the same twisted
skin.

Ohmed Mahomed, anxious to secure friends among the Wahama, paid every
attention to those we met in this place, and on one of the two women who
accompanied them bestowed a piece of blue sood, or half a dollar, whilst
I was called upon to make some present to the Galla slayer, which I did
by giving him a handful of tobacco and some paper. The woman, by the
bye, was an old lady-love of Ohmed Mahomed, and the sister of Lohitu.
She had now become the helpmate of an influential man among the Wahama.
Altogether our meeting with this party was most fortunate, as they
proved grateful for the little presents they all received from us, and
advocated our cause with good effect in the subsequent calahms of their
tribe. This was the object which made Ohmed Mahomed so assiduously to
cultivate their friendship; and to induce them to accompany us for the
next two or three days, until we were out of that part of the country
through which the Wahama people commanded the road, he promised each of
the four men half a dollar. The youngest of the women it was proposed
should live with me, but I was ungallant enough to object to this, for,
although I did not mind her sitting in the hut during the day, I would
insist on her not remaining there for the night. She did not seem to
understand this at all, and I could not explain to her a morality of
which she had no idea, so I gave Zaido a piece of sood to free me from
the lady’s presence. He, however, mistook my meaning altogether, and,
being a stingy kind of a character, intimated with some dumby kind of
antics, that it was all right without such a sacrifice as that. I could
not stand this, so hurried off to Ohmed Medina, and explained to him
that as I was a Christian it was not exactly right for me to take a
Mahomedan wife, especially as I was not going to become a settler in
these parts. He very good-naturedly came and relieved me from my
dilemma, by saying I was an invalid, and the woman taking the hint,
instead of sleeping in my hut, laid down her mat, like Ruth at the feet
of Boaz, and slept across the entrance.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                             CHAPTER XXII.


Journey from Bundurah to Kuditee, general direction south-west, time
  marching, four hours.—Territory of the Wahama.—Description of
  halting-ground.—Meet with party of friends returning from
  Shoa.—Strange request.—Custom of incising skin with sharp
  stone.—Influx of Wahama people into camp.—_May 5th._ Staying
  at Kuditee.—La Belle Sauvage.—Long discussion with the
  Wahama.—Differences settled, and allowed to proceed.


_May 4th._—We moved off our halting-ground long before daylight, the
Wahama men and women accompanying us. Our march was over a very level
country of a sandy-kind of loam, on which the tallest grass, I ever saw
in my life, grew, not in tufts, but in one continued field. It was quite
as high as our shoulders, and our pathway through it looked like a
deeply-cut canal. No trees were seen until the latter part of the march,
where low mimosa-trees, with their spreading umbrella tops, running into
each other, made a miniature grove, beneath which children might have
walked in a delightful shade, but which restricted us to one narrow
path, where the thorny boughs, just the height of our faces, annoyed us
not a little. Numerous herds of the large Wydiddoo antelope grazed
around, gazing on our approach, as if undecided how to act. As we came
nearer, they trotted away for a short distance, turned about, formed
front, in an irregular line, and then made up their minds either to
continue their flight, or recommence their meal.

I noticed that the buck was solitary, living apart from the herd; but
wherever we did see one of these gentlemen, we were pretty sure of
finding his harem on the other side of the ridge, or at some short
distance beyond, on the plain. All were far too shy for me to think of
following them with my short carabine, so that my sporting on the road
now was confined to shooting the tall-stalking bustards, or the
tantalizing florican that, dropping a few yards after I had started
them, would run in quite a different direction to what was expected;
then, if flushed again, would fly up a short distance to drop again and
take another dodging run, and when I was quite sure they were before me
in the grass, would be started a long distance on one side, or even
sometimes behind me, by others of my companions. Something more than
ubiquity is required, following up these birds, with Dankalli beaters to
assist the sportsman, for when half a dozen are calling several ways to
come to their particular spots, it is a difficult thing for him to
please all, or to prove that the bird would not have been there, had he
gone to every other place but the one he did.

After a march of four hours, we arrived at a fair open spot, where
water, in many little pools, lodged amidst groves of sweetly-scented
henna trees, and the yellow-blossomed mimosa. Here it was determined the
Kafilah should halt for the day. The moment we came up, five men sprung
from a recumbent position to their feet, seizing spears and shields,
whilst a little boy ran hastily to drive in three lean, ragged-looking
horses that were standing beneath the shade of one of the larger trees,
as if the fatigue of a night march, or the growing heat of the day had
driven the animals for repose and shelter to the same retreat with their
owners.

A word or two satisfied the surprised party that we were friends, and
they soon found plenty of acquaintances among our Kafilah people. They
belonged to the little village of Ambabboo, which it will be
recollected, was our first halt after leaving Tajourah. They gave us
some news from Shoa, from whence they were returning home. They reported
that the members of the Political Mission were all well, and that Dr.
Krapf had left Ankobar for Gondah. They confirmed what I had heard at
Tajourah from the two Greeks, Demetrius and Joannes, of the death of
three servants, who had formerly belonged to the British Embassy, and
who, with five others had been discharged very summarily, and, I think,
very unwisely, on their arrival in Shoa. These three unfortunate men had
endeavoured to return with the same Kafilah which brought down the
Greeks. They were attacked on this side of the Hawash by the Takale
tribe, who, it was supposed, had killed the servants, and several slave
children besides. Subsequently, however, I found that only one of the
former was murdered, the other two being protected, and ultimately
conveyed safe to Shoa by tribes to which they had fled immediately the
attack was made by the Takale.

In return for their information, we gave them all the news from Berberah
and Tajourah, besides a detailed account of every march we had made from
the latter place. Ohmed Medina was spokesman on this occasion, and went
through the long statement as quietly and regularly as if reading it out
of a logbook. All this introductory conversation being got over, coffee
and general talking came in together. I being very tired, and not
understanding a word of what they were saying, soon fell asleep upon the
ground, between Ebin Izaak and Ohmed Medina, nor was I disturbed in my
long nap until an intimation from the latter, asking me if I were going
to join in the assair, or afternoon’s prayer, was a hint for me to
retire to my hut.

After prayers, I had a curious application from one of the strangers,
who required an amulet or charm of such a nature that would insure him
offspring, that he might see sons and daughters rising around him, and
that he should not go down childless to the grave. It was no use
protesting my inability to give him anything of the sort, or that I
possessed no power to effect for him the desires of his heart. He was
convinced I could, and as he refused to be satisfied with my advice to
pray to Allah to grant him his request, Ohmed Medina, who was
interpreter, slyly nudged me to give the man something or other and send
him away. I consented very reluctantly to be a party to any such
imposition, but scrawling some figures on a bit of paper, and writing
down that I thought the bearer a regular simpleton, I told Ohmed Medina
to assure him that whilst he wore that round his neck he would never die
in child-bed. My bad Arabic, perfectly understood by Ohmed Medina, was
sufficiently obscure to lead the man to think I was promising him, if
not a quantity of children, at least one son before he died, and
perfectly satisfied with this, he thankfully received the potent charm,
and went his way rejoicing; I and Ohmed Medina having a good laugh at
his folly, and the harmless deception that, in consequence of his
importunity, I had been obliged to practise upon him.

A large sand-spout passed over the camp again to-day, accompanied with
thunder and some few drops of rain. The usual laughable pursuit on its
retreat, made by the Kafilah men after their tobes and mats, which had
been carried away and spread over the plain, occasioned considerable
merriment, especially as my broad-brimmed hat also took an extraordinary
flight, pursued by the whole escort, who, I really believe, were very
sorry when they caught it, such a game they had in following it up.

Great numbers of Wahama Bedouins visited us but as all of them were
friends and relations of the party who accompanied us from Bundurah,
they evinced no feeling of dissatisfaction at our presence. All were
plentifully feasted by Ohmed Mahomed, and in the evening received
presents of blue sood and tobacco. By a clever stroke of policy, an
expectation was raised among these, that an additional escort would be
required to travel with safety across the disturbed district for two or
three days’ march on this side of the Hawash, which had not been
traversed by any Kafilah since the large one of Mahomed Allee had come
down from Shoa. Hopes were thus held out that the first comers of the
Wahama would be selected to perform this service, and it then became
their interest, of course, that we should first pass unmolested through
their own country.

They were continually applying to me for something or other, but I had
now got pretty well accustomed to their natural expectation, and by a
corresponding bestowal of next to nothing, held out a warning
intimation, that should they apply again they must not be surprised at
having arrived at the very negative point in the diminishing scale of my
worthless gifts. One great advantage also, arising from small presents
is, that they are not so ostentatiously displayed by the receiver as are
large ones, and others have therefore less inducement to apply for
similar proofs of the traveller’s generosity.

The woman of last night, occupied part of my hut again to-day. In the
afternoon I amused myself copying into my note-book the muslin sprig
pattern incised upon the skin of her body; in front from the neck over
her breasts to the waist, and on her back from the shoulders to the
hips. She seemed proud of the attention this savage kind of ornament
attracted, and was very particular in showing me how it was performed.
Going out of the hut, she soon came back with a piece of obsidian or
volcanic glass, she had found among the sand. From this, the rough blow
of another stone splintered off a scale-like fragment, sharp as a razor,
and which she proved to me could shave off the hair if required. With
this the strange operation of ornamenting the girls’ skins is performed
when they are quite young, and it is also used to cut the “Arriah,” or
tribe-symbol, upon the breasts or shoulders of the boys. As I looked at
the rude instrument, my mind reverted to the fourth chapter of Exodus,
where we are told, “Then Zipporah took a sharp stone, and cut off the
foreskin of her son, and cast it at his feet, and said, Surely a bloody
husband art thou to me.” Before this, I had no idea in what manner, the
circumcision of the son of Moses could have been effected, for although
stone instruments, to separate large substances, were general in the
early history of man, it appears difficult to conceive how the delicate
operation alluded to in the above verse could be accomplished by such as
those. From the admitted volcanic character of the country which is
presumed to have been the scene of Moses’s early life, I have been led
to suppose, that Zipporah resorted to a splinter of obsidian, as the
means of excision in the case of her son, as is done at the present day
by the Adal mother, to incise on her children the marks of the tribe to
which they belong.

Besides the new blue covering for the head, given to my female
acquaintance by Ohmed Mahomed, her only other article of dress was the
usual fringed petticoat of soft leather. In a roll of this garment,
along its upper edge, she had hid a necklace of red beads and shells,
and holding out her hand when she showed them to me, plainly enough
asked me to give her some more; but as I had long ago distributed all I
possessed of these desired ornaments, I could only add to her stock of
valuables, a few needles and some black thread. These she deposited in
her curious scrap _album_, which with a twist of the petticoat, she then
replaced behind her, where it rested upon the loins, free from any
casual observation.

At sunset, I was desired to fire off my guns, the noise of the reports
being intended as a kind of warning voice, to deter any of the Wahama
from attacking us. This was rendered the more necessary, for after
sunset, great numbers flocked from all quarters, and our camp was full
of them.

_May 5th._—We could not start this morning, much to the great grief of
every man of the Kafilah; the father of Mahomed Allee, and three or four
other powerful Wahama chiefs, having come in during the night. Calahm
circles, on all sides, covered the ground, with anything but fairy
rings, though the spot itself, seemed a little Eden, where things of
light and beauty might have been tempted to hold their nocturnal
assemblies. The tall henna trees shed a delicious perfume, far and wide,
exactly resembling that of our dear little weed, the mignonnette; and
out of due reverence for, and remembrance of, the sweets of home, I
carried in the bosom of my tobe a small branch of its clustered
pale-yellow flowers. Whilst plucking this, I was joined by Carmel
Ibrahim, who seemed not unmindful of its delightful odour, and stuck a
small sprig in the hair at the back of his head; but I was still more
pleased to find, that Ina, my Dankalli patroness, had some idea of the
beautiful, having placed in her hair a wreath of the small blue
convolvulus. Thus decorated, she looked most interesting, and greatly
improved by the absence of her finery, which, as I before stated, for
some sufficient reason, she kept packed up in her bustle behind.

Two or three Hy Soumaulee came to pull me back towards my hut, for I had
strolled quite at my ease, some distance from the camp. Turning with my
companion, Carmel Ibrahim, to look for some explanation, we saw that the
various lesser councils had broken up, and two large circles, at some
distance from each other, now discussed the momentous subjects that had
occasioned such a numerous attendance of the Wahama. I thought of going
to the Tajourah people at once, as twenty or thirty strangers surrounded
my hut, but seeing me coming, Adam Burrah, and Moosa, jumped up, and met
me, pointing to the hut, then to my carabine, and afterwards to the
Wahama. I understood them to say, that I was to get my other gun loaded
for the benefit of our visitors, so we all proceeded to the hut, Carmel
Ibrahim, pushing a lane through the crowd of fierce-looking savages,
who, without a word, fell backwards, as directed, gazing at me as an
object of curiosity, but did not ask for a single thing.

It was an ominous silence, and I felt it to be so, but taking my long
fowling-piece from beneath the roof of mats, I loaded it, a hint taken
by more than one half of the crowd, who left immediately, and slowly
paced towards their friends sitting in council, where they dropt upon
their heels, adding their long bright spear-heads, glittering in the
sun, to the ring of troubled light that was suspended above them. In
this body, a few minutes afterwards, a great commotion was observed, and
some of them recovering the upright posture, shouted out “Wahama,
Wahama,” which was echoed back by the party about my hut, and by all
stragglers in the precincts of the camp, as they hurried towards this
point of gathering.

The Hy Soumaulee upon hearing this, immediately took me with them to the
small denuded base of a former volcanic cone, which was a few feet
higher than the surrounding plain; and which, besides the advantages of
its elevated and isolated character, afforded a plentiful supply of
large stones, or as Carmel Ibrahim called them, “bandook Bedouins,”
Bedouin guns. The Tajourah people still continued their calahm, and were
joined immediately by every man in the Kafilah, when the war cry of the
Wahama was raised. It was very evident that a storm was coming; but
still, it appeared, our opponents were a long time in making up their
minds to attack us. Neither party had much advantage in point of
numbers, although every hour was adding to the force of the Wahama, and
this, I supposed, was occasioning the delay, thinking it probable that
their leaders were waiting to collect as many of their people as
possible, before they attempted to carry into effect the violent
measures, that were proposed by some of the party.

In this state of suspense, the little band I was with, sat in silence,
for above two hours; the Tajourah people, and the Wahama, all this time
being engaged in close calahm. Whatever was said on either side was done
in a very low tone of voice, and I was glad, when the sun set, to see
the still scene broken into, by several of the slaves of my friends, go
out to bring the camels in for the night.

Occasionally might be now seen messengers passing and repassing between
the debating circles; and after the camels had been secured, Zaido, with
a large skinful of milk and a corresponding wooden bowl, was a welcome
visitor to our position. I saw directly that matters were going on
favourably, by the saucy bearing and swagger of our black Ganymede, who,
had he been serving at some feast of the gods, could not have talked
more freely of the impotent assaults of the Titans, than he did of the
“dust-eating Wahama,” as he now called them. We all took long deep
draughts of the sweet new milk, and twice round the bowl was passed, no
question of creed here interfering with the fair distribution of its
contents, and we all laughed when Adam Burrah placed the dripping bowl
upon the frizzled wig of Zaido, whilst a shower of small stones, tossed
up by the rest of the amused Hy Soumaulee, deterred him from removing
his wooden helmet, as he hastily retreated to the camp.

Matters, however, were yet far from being amicably arranged, and on one
occasion Zaido, in a very different mood than when he visited us before,
began to lament the little chance of our ever getting out of the
clutches of the Wahama thieves, a pretty good proof that the war party,
in the councils of the latter, was influencing more than he desired, the
ultimate determination of the tribe. At nine o’clock, seeing there was
little chance of returning during the night to my hut, Adam Burrah went
to the camp, and having brought me a mat, and a fedeenah or wooden
pillow, I laid myself down, and soon fell fast asleep. About midnight I
was awakened by Ohmed Mahomed seizing my knee, and then crawling to my
side, to tell me that all was settled amicably with the Wahama. He never
had a narrower escape from death in his life, than when he took the
method he did to apprize me of his presence, and to this day he relates,
with exaggerated particulars, the push in the chest with my fortunately
uncocked pistol, with which I met his silent and sudden approach.

Peaceable relations between us and the Wahama had been established by
Ohmed Mahomed consenting to give, for distribution among the individuals
of the tribe assembled at Kuditee, five pieces of blue cloth, and a tobe
each to three of the principal chiefs. The fact of the father of Mahomed
Allee and his two brothers being present contributed greatly to the
reluctant assent given by the tribe, that our Kafilah should be allowed
to proceed unmolested, and that no attempt upon my life should be made.
This favourably disposed family party was aware of the situation of
Mahomed Allee, who probably was in Tajourah at that time, and upon whom
and whose property they well knew, retaliation and indemnity would be
taken, should any violence be done to us.

I was now allowed by my careful guards, to sleep out the remainder of
the night in my hut, and glad enough I was, to exchange my hard uneven
bed of stone, for the softer couch of sand the encampment afforded.
Taking up my guns, I very soon walked down to my retreat, one of the Hy
Soumaulee bringing after me, the mat and wooden pillow. The father of
Mahomed Allee was waiting to receive me, and the politic old man, as we
shook hands, asked if I were “Engreez?” or “Feringee?” my reply, of
course, instructing him as to the character of the conversation he must
assume, during the next morning’s interview, which he in bad Arabic
proposed, and I readily assented to; glad enough to escape from a
lengthened discussion at so late an hour.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                             CHAPTER XXIII.


Journey from Kuditee to Hiero Murroo, general direction west by south,
  time marching one hour and a-half.—False alarm at starting.—Necessity
  for being prepared for strife in Adal.—Abu Bukeree, Sheik of the
  second Debenee tribe.—Old friend of Lieutenant Barker.—Offered
  marriage.—Stay at Hiero Murroo.—Find here abandoned property of
  mission.—Negotiations for its restoration.—Joined by Wahama Kafilah.


_May 6th._—When I awoke this morning I found that the camels were being
loaded in great haste. I got up, and on looking around, saw the Hy
Soumaulee with Ohmed Medina, sitting upon their heels, their chins, as
usual, resting upon the upper edge of their shields. They were stationed
upon the same height where we had been drawn up in battle array the
night before. Not being wanted among the boxes, Zaido and Allee were
waiting to remove, I took up my firearms and postponed any inquiry as to
what new cause of alarm existed, until I had joined my escort. Ohmed
Medina then told me that, after all the stipulations of last night’s
treaty, an attack was expected from the Wahama, and he directed my
attention, as he spoke, to the squatting circle of this tribe, a foul
ringworm on the fair face of nature, that were still debating some
momentous subject or other, exactly in the same place, and in the same
manner as if they had been sitting up, talking all night. They, however,
offered no interruption to the saddling and loading the camels, which
was done more expeditiously than I had ever witnessed before. Every now
and then Ohmed Mahomed, who was working away amongst them like one of
his own slaves, would straiten his bent back and with an anxious look
towards us, call out that we must not stir from where we were, until the
whole of the Kafilah had moved off the ground. At last the Wahama calahm
terminated, and the circle broke up; first singly, then in twos and
threes, they separated and went their several ways, each person bearing
in a little cleft stick his share of the spoil, being generally one half
dollar’s worth of blue sood, folded up into the usual three-cornered
currency of the country.

It appeared that all their talk this morning had been to arrange some
differences that had arisen between themselves, about the division of
the cloth we had given to them, and bore no reference to us at all. In
fact I was much struck with the conscientious manner in which these
savages seemed to fulfil their engagement of the last night, all but a
very few, who now announced their intention of accompanying us to Shoa,
moving off the ground without a single look at the Kafilah, or seeming
to be aware that a camel or package was in their neighbourhood.

Among those who remained, and now approached the party I was with, was
the grey-headed father of Mahomed Allee. He came to tell me that he was
going with us as far as Hiero Murroo, to deliver to me the boxes left by
his son when unable, on the last occasion, to convey them to Shoa. He
was a mild, sagacious, hale old man, and appeared much respected, not
only by his own tribe, but also by every individual in our Kafilah.

During the march, we passed along the most southern edge of an extensive
district of extinct volcanoes, each of which, varying in height from
twenty to fifty feet, presented a perfectly-formed crater, almost
invariably broken down on the side towards the south-east. Abundance of
tales were told by my companions of the Jinns who inhabited these hills,
one of which was called “the House of the Devil’s Wife,” another “Jibel
Mudfah,” (Cannon mountain) both names evidently alluding to the usual
noisy phenomena of volcanic action, which is here frequently exerted. I
cannot assert positively, but I have reason to believe that the great
fire observed in this neighbourhood by Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf, said
by their guides to have been spontaneously produced, was connected in
some manner with subterranean igneous operation.

Although our march was scarcely for two hours, and at the slow pace of
the camels, it was sufficient to take us out of the narrow valley tract
of Kuditee, and to bring us again into the country of the Debenee, the
chief of which division of this extensive tribe was named Abu Bukeree.

Ohmed Mahomed took an opportunity of telling me that when he accompanied
the British Mission on their journey to Shoa, their Kafilah then went
one day’s journey to the north, for the purpose of avoiding the Wahama
at Kuditee. The Tajourah people had hoped by this means to have defeated
the machinations of Mahomed Allee, the favoured of the Embassy, to
assume here the Ras ul Kafilahship.

Although so short a journey, numerous were the mischances of the camels
to-day, who were continually falling from the bad management of their
loads, consequent upon our hurried start. I was not very sorry either
when we halted, for I felt quite tired, and fell fast asleep upon the
ground whilst my hut was being erected. Moosa rather suddenly awakened
me to introduce an elderly lady, his wife. She brought me a present of a
skin of milk and a fowl, the sight of which rather surprised me, for I
had not seen one since leaving Aden, either at Tajourah or on the road.
Much curiosity was evinced by my Bedouin friends to know if I had ever
seen one before, and for some time they imagined, as I did not know the
name of it in Arabic, that it must be a great rarity to me; but I
satisfied them, at last, of its being an old acquaintance of mine by
giving a regular crow. Upon inquiry, I was told that the people of Owssa
keep and eat fowls, but that the Bedouins did not. At Herhowlee I had
given this same woman a handful of tobacco, and a coloured handkerchief
for her child, and either out of gratitude, or with the hope of
receiving a corresponding reward for the trouble taken in procuring this
delicacy, as it was thought to be, she had actually gone all the way to
Owssa, and back to where we now were, to get it for me. The name of
Moosa’s wife was Claudia, and I noticed this the more, because I had
before considered the name of Lohitu’s sister Mira, and of my Wahama
friend Ina, as being very classical, and reminding me of female names
common at the present day in Spain and Portugal.

Expecting, from the number of Bedouins who visited us, that some more
demonstrations of violence would be made, I prepared some cartridges.
Rolling up a ball with a quantity of powder in some paper, I tied it in
the centre and at the two extremities, turning out a very serviceable
looking article. Eight of these I fastened together, and stowed away in
my cartouche-bag, so that when need was, I could load my guns with
greater despatch and certainty. In cases of anticipated peril, the most
courageous men will be found to be those, who have prepared themselves
properly, for the exigences that are likely to occur. I always felt
agitated myself if I were not duly prepared for accidents, and thus
learnt by degrees that real valour consists in being always ready. A man
has to be frightened a good many times before he graduates into a hero,
but only let him have so ordered his resources of defence, and the
anxiety natural to all men in situations of danger is kept suppressed,
by the confidence which results from proper preparations having been
made, to meet the worst that can happen.

The Sheik, or Chief, of this subdivision of the Debenee came to my hut
in the course of the day. Allee the First pulled him along by the beard,
calling out “Shabah, Shabah!” (old man) to make a way for him, through
the crowd of his own people who encircled my place. I thought at first
he was some blind individual who wanted me to restore him to sight, as
he knelt down on his hands and knees to creep into the shade. Zaido,
however, hanging his black head into the entrance of the hut, cried out
that this was the celebrated Abu Bukeree, the friend of the “Kapitan,”
for whom, of late, I had been making some inquiries. “Kapitan” was the
name by which Lieut. Barker, of the Indian Navy, was known to the
Dankalli. A few weeks before, this gentleman had travelled through Adal
on his return from Shoa; his original intention had been to take the
Hurrah road, and so to Zeilah, and for that purpose he had lived some
months in Aliu-amba, a town in Shoa, inhabited chiefly by Hurrahgee
people. A Kafilah going down, the Ras undertook to convey him and his
servants; but Lieutenant Barker, on this side of the Hawash, having
reason to suspect the designs of his guide, considered it prudent to
leave in the night, and put himself under the protection of some of the
Dankalli tribes, with whom he had become acquainted on his first journey
through their country. This confidence in their good faith was not
misplaced; and after a short journey of scarcely three weeks, he arrived
safely at Tajourah, with his four Indian followers. On my return to
Aden, after my first visit to Tajourah, I had the good fortune to see
Lieutenant Barker at the house of Captain Haines for a few minutes; and
he gave me the names of two chiefs, he wished me to reward for their
kindness to him during his late journey, one of whom was this Abu
Bukeree, and the other one Durtee Ohmed, Chief of the Sidee Ahbreu,
living at the lake Murroo, two days’ journey farther on.

Abu Bukeree was an old man, and, rather a curious circumstance for a
Bedouin, had a clean tobe upon his shoulders, which, to give me a hint,
he told me had been presented to him by Mahomed Allee, when he was
coming down from Shoa. He asked after the Kapitan, but without the least
idea, I think, of a present being due to him from that gentleman. He
also invited me to his house, or wigwam, an incident that, like the fowl
brought me by Moosa’s wife, was the only instance of the sort I met with
whilst in this country. From the novelty of the invitation, and the good
character of the man I had received from Lieut. Barker, I felt inclined
to accept it; and we got out of my retreat to look how far distant he
lived, as he pointed to a patch of low green trees, among which the
stone kraals and mat-huts were plainly visible. I told Zaido and Allee
to come with me, but just as we were starting, Ohmed Mahomed sent for
the chief to transact business, and he, therefore, left us to join a
calahm of the Tajourah people.

In about an hour, the council having broken up, I sent to Ohmed Mahomed,
desiring him to bring Abu Bukeree again to receive his reward for the
kindness he had shown to Lieut. Barker. He came, however, alone, and
wanted me to allow him to reward the old man. This I would not consent
to, but told him I intended to give Abu Bukeree ten dollars in cash, for
Lieut. Barker had desired me, not to give it to him in the blue sood
currency. Ohmed Mahomed looked quite alarmed when I said, “Ten dollars.”
“No, no, no,” he burst out, “bad, very bad; two dollars are enough, or
every Tajourah Kafilah that comes up will always afterwards be made to
pay the same sum.” I saw that my proposition was too extravagant, but as
I thought two dollars disproportionate for the services performed, I
concluded that five dollars would, perhaps, be a just recompence.
Accordingly, a little before sunset, when Abu Bukeree came to bid me
good-night, I slipped into his hand that sum, and feeling the weight of
the dollars, he went away without even thanking me, such was the hurry
of delight with which he sought some retired spot to examine to what
extent he had been rewarded so unexpectedly.

He soon returned profuse in his acknowledgments, and bade Allee, who was
a great favourite of his, to tell me how much he was my friend, and that
if I ever came in that country again, no one of his tribe would molest
or injure me, but that they and all English for the future should be
brothers. I do not know what he would have done, had I carried out the
generous intentions of Lieutenant Barker, who requested me to give him
twenty dollars. Such a sudden acquisition of wealth, would have turned
his brain.

Abu Bukeree was not undeserving of the money, for the grateful old
fellow went to his kraal, and in about an hour he and his son drove to
my hut one of the finest bullocks I had yet seen, which he presented to
me as a proof of the regard and respect he had, not only for me, but for
all the English. Not to be outdone in generosity, and having this
evening to purchase some animal of the kind, I insisted upon paying for
this; but instead of three, the usual price paid to Ohmed Mahomed for a
bullock, I gave the value of one in Adal, two dollars, which required
very little pressing to induce the old man to take.

It now seemed as if there were a trial between us, of who should be the
kindest to the other; but he certainly beat me, for in a very short time
after he left me on this occasion, he returned with one of his
daughters, a girl about fourteen years old, and wished me to receive her
either as a temporary or a permanent wife; but as I had no idea of
marriage even with royalty, I waived the honour intended, making a very
good excuse, that having refused the daughter of the Sultaun of Tajourah
under similar circumstances, I could not, without offending him,
contract any engagements of the kind with other princesses on the road.
Although this was not actually the fact as regarded myself, still, as it
occurred to my companion, Mr. Cruttenden, to whom the Sultaun of
Tajourah had offered his daughter for one hundred dollars, I did not
hesitate to make use of the circumstance, to assist me in the dilemma I
was in, of having to refuse the hand of a native, so highly connected
with the rank and fashion of the country. Abu Bukeree was satisfied with
my explanation, and the young lady herself was delighted, at her narrow
escape from an introduction into civilized life.

There can be no doubt that the Dankalli Bedouins, especially the younger
of both sexes, live in common. With this division of the Debenee, from
some unexplained reason, we lived upon the most friendly terms;
communication with each other was as free and as unreserved as if in
Tajourah, and I had opportunities of observing, that not only the other
women of the kraal, but even the wife of Abu Bukeree and his daughters,
were the handmaids of the whole Kafilah, during the time we remained in
his district.

_May 7th._—On awaking this morning, I was not surprised at seeing no
symptoms of a start. Calling Zaido, I learnt from him we were to remain
here several days, for the road now before us was so beset with Gallas,
that we could not proceed until several Kafilahs, which had been obliged
to stay here for some weeks past, should join us, and we should then be
able to force our way together across the disturbed country. Whilst he
was speaking, Abu Mahomed Allee, on his mule, rode up and asked me to
accompany him to view the property of the mission which had been left by
his son, in a kraal about four miles to the south. Zaido, on hearing
this request, went immediately for Ohmed Mahomed, who soon came up and
objected to my leaving the Kafilah.

Ohmed Medina and Ebin Izaak, hearing of the matter, also joined us, and
protested against my going out of their sight, as in case of my death
they would be made answerable to Captain Haines at Aden. Seeing the
opposition, and thinking it was exerted for my benefit, I did not
persevere in my wish to accompany the old man, especially as Ohmed
Mahomed assured me that the seventeen packages, or boxes, should be
brought into camp to-morrow. They then took away Abu Mahomed Allee, and
after a long discussion among themselves, they all again returned to my
hut, and sitting down round the entrance, said they had come to have a
calahm, to consider what sum of money they should receive in Shoa for
taking up the abandoned property with us. I could promise them nothing
more than the hire of the camels, which should be paid at half the rate
given for those, which were engaged in Tajourah, as I understood that
there was still to be performed, about the same distance as we had
already come. This did not satisfy them at all; two hundred dollars they
demanded as a present for themselves, independent of the camels’ hire,
and unless I promised that, they said they would not interfere in the
matter at all, or exert themselves to procure the restoration of the
property. This I refused at once, and as I felt it to be another attempt
at extortion, I threatened in return, that I would not stir from the
halting-place we were at, until the boxes were given up, and if they
chose to proceed without me, I would go and live at Errur with Abu
Mahomed Allee, in whose kraal I should be as secure as I was with the
Kafilah.

This determination had its weight in their deliberations, and they never
alluded to the present again, but insisted upon receiving in Shoa, and
not in Tajourah, the ten dollars per camel required to carry this
addition to my charge. I agreed to this without further discussion, as
it would have been absurd to hesitate under the circumstances,
especially as I did not know, but that many valuable and necessary
articles, might be amongst the recovered property.

All the day long Ohmed Mahomed was absent on this business, and I heard
or saw nothing of him until the evening, when he came to congratulate me
on the success of his labours, saying the boxes were on the road to the
camp, and would arrive during the night.

The next morning by sunrise, Ibrahim, a younger brother of Mahomed
Allee, according to promise, brought in the first instalment of the
valuables, consisting of two small square boxes, packed in cloth, and
containing shot. With him were upwards of forty men and women and a
large Kafilah of salt which had been detained here nearly two months in
consequence of the disturbed state of the country, for some days’
journey on both sides of the Hawash. A Galla tribe, called Hittoo, on
the south of our route, and an Affah people, the Assa-hemerah Muditu, to
the north of it, seemed to divide between them the attention of the rich
and the fearful among my friends. The Hy Soumaulee, on the contrary,
were in great glee, and often would amuse themselves when they saw me,
by calling out the names of the hostile tribes, and then with an action
as if striking with their daggers, or imitating the report of my
firearms, intimate how they intended to serve them, should any attempt
be made upon the Kafilah.

The two boxes just brought in, I looked upon as earnest of the arrival
of the rest, and congratulated Ohmed Mahomed, in my own mind, for having
once in the course of our journey, not deceived me in the information he
had given. I was a little too hasty, however, in this conclusion, for
another day passed over us, without any more being brought into camp.

The new comers of the Wahama Kafilah, men and women, annoyed me terribly
to-day, blocking up, with a dense mass of squatting human nature, all
the avenues to my hut, and begging for whatever they could see. The
worst was, I could not encourage any of the female relatives of Abu
Bukeree to come and live with me as a keeper, they were such a bad set.
Had I done so, it would have raised a great scandal, and my character as
a medical practitioner would have suffered, as it was now usual to
ascribe all my extraordinary cures to excessive morality, as also, by
the bye, all good and fortunate shots that I happened to make.

I distributed needles, and paper, and tobacco until I wished myself
anywhere, even in a stall at the Pantheon, to have got out of my present
huxtering business, with such a lot of _gratis_ customers as I had; and
had it not been for Ibrahim, the brother of Mahomed Allee, who went and
brought his father to my assistance, I should not have got rid of them,
even to take my usual siesta in the afternoon. A few words from him soon
dispersed the crowd, who, like a lot of children, without a word or look
to the contrary, obeyed the old man in a way I could wish to see, the
younger members of civilized society pay attention, to the expressed
wishes of their seniors.

The government of the Dankalli tribes is strictly patriarchal. Power
concentrates naturally to elders distinguished for valour and wisdom, in
a state of society where the fools and cowards are sure to be cut off in
the earlier part of life. The daily occurrence of quarrels between
themselves and other tribes, tends to cultivate caution and policy in
naturally clever minds, to avoid the violent and fatal results of giving
way to sudden passion. A long life of trial must produce, therefore,
that memory of experience, and that penetration of judgment, which is so
characteristic of the chiefs we meet with, on our road through Adal.
After all, the axiom that knowledge is power, is the secret of the great
influence possessed by the elders, among this people as among all
others. Every old man here is a sage, and must be well versed in the
philosophy of human nature, taught by an education of many years’
exposure, to the fatal consequences attendant upon unrestrained anger,
or unprepared valour.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                             CHAPTER XXIV.


Delay in giving up the recovered stores.—Interview with father of
  Mahomed Allee.—Accompany him to a kraal.—Entertainment
  there.—Condition of the stores.—Murder in our camp.—Occupation of
  Kafilah people during long halts.—Game of gubertah.—Muditu
  visitors.—Expected attack.—Bedouins feasting.—Portion of entrail
  around the neck of a Bedouin, not for ornament, but use.—Amusements.


THE name of our present halting-place was Hiero Murroo; and the third
day of our stay there arrived, but no signs of any more boxes coming,
nor could Ohmed Mahomed, when applied to, account for their
non-appearance. Generally, the answer to my inquiries was—in the
morning, he would promise that they would arrive before evening; and in
the evening, he would be quite certain they would come in during the
night. I thought, at last, there was no intention of giving up the boxes
at all; and as I saw Ohmed Mahomed very friendly indeed with the
principal man of the Bedouin kraal, where the property lay, accompanying
him backwards and forwards several times, I at length suspected that he
was endeavouring to get the boxes and their contents for his own use.
The blame of such a dishonest action when discovered, he was well aware
could be easily transferred to the shoulders of others, from whom it was
impossible to look for restitution or redress. So convinced was I by his
conduct of his intending this robbery, that I left our Kafilah, and
walked to that of the Wahama, who were encamped about one hundred yards
to the west of us. Having walked about a little, looking into every bush
for Abu Mahomed Allee, or for his son Ibrahim, I at length found the
former, hard at work, studying the Koran, which lay open upon the ground
before him. He was reading away with very evident interest, some of the
well-told relations of past, present, and future life contained in that
volume.

I pushed aside the mat that hung from the top of the thick-leaved
moomen-bush, under which he had retreated from the sun, and, without any
ceremony, sat down by his side. He closed his book, took off the large,
round German spectacles that, compressed across the bridge of his nose,
secured themselves, without farther aid, in the required position. My
business was soon told. Ohmed Mahomed was a great thief, and something
worse; and I wanted the boxes to be with me, or I with them, and
required his assistance, for I was determined not to leave Hiero Murroo
without obtaining possession of the property thus left, and which I had
no doubt, I told him, that Ohmed Mahomed wanted to steal, and then to
lay the blame on the Wahama. The old man replied, that the party who had
possession of the boxes, was only a half-blood Wahama, and he had but
little influence over him, which was one reason that his son, Mahomed
Allee, could not induce him to go on to Shoa with himself. Since he had
seen the boxes last, he added, they had every one been opened, either by
the Tajourah people, or the Bedouins of the kraal, but as they had, to
his knowledge, remained four months among the latter, without exciting
the least curiosity to know their contents, he had no doubt the outrage
had been committed by the people of our Kafilah. This was a confirmation
of my fears, and a good ground of complaint, which I did not hesitate to
make after my return to camp. Before I left Abu Mahomed, the old
gentleman promised that he would take me to see the boxes, if he could
do so without offending my Ras ul Kafilah.

After a deal of trouble with Ebin Izaak, and Ohmed Mahomed, each
asserting on my charging them with the deed, that he did not know of the
breaking open of the boxes, I asked them, if they would go with me the
following morning to the kraal, where they were kept, to examine the
state they were in, but neither seeming inclined to indulge me, I walked
back to my hut. I was soon after followed, however, by the father of
Mahomed Allee, who asking me to accompany him, I buckled on my belt
again, replaced my pistols, took up my carabine, and went off with him,
without once looking back to see if any volunteers from the Kafilah
would follow me. I could hear several of the principal people of
Tajourah addressing me in rather an equivocal manner, as I passed them,
muttering “Tihebe,” “Tihebe,” “Good,” “Good,” in a tone, anything but
expressive of being pleased at my proceedings.

It was a longer walk than I expected, continuing for two hours at a very
sharp pace over the plain, until we came in sight of several kraals, at
distances of about half a mile from each other. Towards one of these we
directed our steps, and as soon as we were observed, some half-dozen
men, and a crowd of women, and naked children, issued out of the low
wigwams, that were clustered upon a little eminence. On one side of this
portable village was a large circle of loose stones, in which sheep,
goats, and cattle were kept; and near to it another, formed of boughs of
the long white-thorned mimosa, which was considered a sufficient defence
for the security of the camels.

The evening’s milking was about to commence; the flocks arriving just at
the moment we did; and their bleating made a terrible din. On our
approach, the men came up to Abu Mahomed, and after each had saluted him
with the open hand, sliding it over his, as he extended it for that
purpose, they very civilly came and proffered the same kind of welcome
to me. I was rather taken by surprise, but removing my carabine to the
other hand, I presented my right, with all the gravity and decorum
proper on the occasion. This reception was so flattering, that I began
to conclude my appearance, as a civilized being, must be a good deal
worn off, and that my life in the desert had given me somewhat of the
savage air of one of these roving family of man. They invited us into
one of the huts, and a large bundle of split palm-leaves, ready for the
women to plait into mats, was placed for me to sit down upon. Scarcely
had I taken the offered seat, than a woman brought in a large basket of
milk, which was fairly divided between Abu Mahomed and myself; and after
it was finished, we proceeded to view the stores.

I found them carefully enough heaped up between two of the huts, above
which they stood some feet in height, and were covered with three or
four covers of tarpaulin, the remains of a large tent, which being worn
out and useless, had been also left with the boxes. They consisted
principally, of the trunks of Dr. Roth and Mr. Scott, some boxes of
ammunition, as also others containing a very small seed bead, a
favourite with the Christians of Shoa, but of no value to the Dankalli
people, two corn-mills, and two boxes of silks, and valuables. All
these, with the exception of the latter, had been opened. But as Abu
Mahomed had told me not to notice this circumstance, I did not ask for
any explanation, being satisfied with what he had informed me upon the
road, that seven days ago, he had seen them untouched, and that it must
have been the instigation of some of my Kafilah, that had induced the
man to allow them to be forced open. The injury done to some of the
boxes, where a deal of violence had been used to open them, the man did
attempt to account for, by stating, that they had been broken during the
journey, by the knocking about consequent upon the numerous loadings,
and unloadings of the camels, whilst the holes in the ammunition and
other boxes, he attributed to the curiosity of the children of the
kraal. One box containing beads was so much damaged, that I was obliged
to have the parcels placed in skin bags. How all the things that had
been left here so long, failed to excite the cupidity of the people, is
beyond my comprehension. Paper, printed ginghams, and actually, some
thirteen or fourteen dollars, in a box belonging to Mr. Scott, were left
untouched. The beads, whatever may be said of their not being the kind,
most in demand among the Dankalli, must still have been thought of some
value. In this short review of the facts, it must be understood, that
the inhabitants of Tajourah surpass in unprincipled cunning, the
Bedouins of the interior, as they are on the other hand inferior to them
in courage; so that the disgraceful conduct of Ohmed Mahomed, and Ebin
Izaak, in the clandestine search they made, for dollars supposed to be
contained in some of the packages, must not influence any opinion, that
may be formed respecting the character of the inhabitants of the
interior.

When Mahomed Allee took the last Kafilah of stores for the mission to
Shoa, four thousand dollars and some musket cartridges were forwarded in
similar packages; by some means the Tajourah people became acquainted
with the fact, and when they heard of shot boxes being among those left
at Errur, unable to be carried up, they jumped to the conclusion at
once, that these boxes must also contain dollars. This led to their
endeavour to prevent me seeing the boxes until they had perfectly
satisfied themselves of their contents; and finding nothing but the
presence of what, in their possession, would convict them of the
dishonest action, they had left the articles untouched, and then, making
a virtue of their disappointment, commented loudly upon the integrity
and good faith of the Dankalli people.

Care having been evidently taken of the property to protect it from the
weather, and the man and his friends behaving so civilly to me on the
occasion of my visit, I promised him, on my return to camp, a half
dollar’s worth of blue sood for his wife, and a coloured cotton
handkerchief for a son who was to be circumcised in a day or two. On
such occasions, as in Arabia, all the personal riches and household
furniture of the family are paraded, and a great entertainment provided.

So much for the boxes I found in this place, and which occasioned me
considerable anxiety and trouble during the four days we stayed at Hiero
Murroo. What I regretted most was the offence I had given Ohmed Medina,
who, in common with the rest of the Tajourah people, resented my holding
any intercourse with the father of Mahomed Allee. None of them spoke to
me for two days, but I remained in my hut in perfect contentment;
pulling down a mat over the entrance, and making Zaido place a camel
saddle as a kind of _chevaux de frise_ in front, I slept very
comfortably during the heat of the day. At night I took the precaution
of building up the entrance of my hut with stones, whilst, over the
region of my stomach I placed a shield, and curled one of my arms around
my neck, so that any attempt upon my life would have been almost sure to
have awakened me.

Though I was spared, an unfortunate slave of my friend Himyah was
murdered by one of my Hy Soumaulee escort, for some offence committed by
the unfortunate man during the preceding day. Although in the scuffle
that immediately ensued he had been severely wounded in the face, this
did not satisfy his opponent, who, unobserved, stole upon him during the
night, and struck his dagger into the chest above the breast bone,
killing him at one blow. The murderer next morning paraded with a large
black feather in his hair, and was the coolest of the whole party as
they sat alone, during the deliberations which ensued upon this deed of
blood. Five bullocks was the fine imposed, which was paid by his friends
collectively, who applied to me, to authorize Ohmed Mahomed to advance
the money for that purpose. At first I insisted upon the Ras ul Kafilah
discharging this man, but Ohmed Medina corroborating the statement that
this was impossible in our situation, I had no other course but to
resolve not to have any communication with the murderer. Even this I was
only able to do for a few days, as the fellow would still come and sit
down at the entrance of my hut, and converse with as much ease, as if
conscious only of having done a most meritorious act. My last resort,
therefore, to express my own abhorrence of his dastardly conduct, was to
address him always as Cain, and by that name he very soon became known
to the whole Kafilah, but of course, no one had any idea of the allusion
contained in the appellation.

Our stay in Hiero Murroo being so long, and the place abounding with
shrubby clumps of the moomen or tooth-brush-tree, nearly all the Kafilah
people formed for themselves, with their knives, rude bowers, by cutting
out some of the underwood, and scattering it over the top to increase
the shade. In this manner sometimes three or four tenants would occupy
one bush. The moomen, or woomen, as I have heard it also called, grew at
the convenient distance of not more than five yards from each other, and
towards evening I often took a walk, along the naturally formed lanes,
to pick up some trait of character, by observing the inmates and their
occupation in these human nests. If they were not sleeping, which was
most frequently the case, they would perhaps be mending a tobe, or
making their ox-skin sandals. Sometimes two idle rascals, lying upon
their stomachs, would be passing away the time by a game called
gubahtah, played with thirty-two pieces of dried camel’s dung, which
were to be duly apportioned, according to certain laws, into sixteen
holes, and depends, somewhat like backgammon, upon the choice of
position and chance of number.

Many of the bushes were festooned inside and out, with strings of meat
drying in the sun, upon which the circling falcon, which in great
numbers always accompany a Kafilah, would make frequent stoops, scarcely
scared, by the yell and often-hurled stones of the watching slave-boy.

In this place, as was usual where there was plenty of grass and water,
we had constant supplies of milk. We also readily purchased young kids
for needles or tobacco, and I generally preferred one of these to the
dry venison of the chase, in the pursuit of which I always incurred much
trouble and disappointment. Had I been possessed of a good rifle, it
would have been very different, but for hunting purposes my short
double-barrelled carabine was good for nothing. Presents were also
frequently made, in return for medicine consisting, in addition to bags
of milk, sometimes of a fine sheep or goat, so that the Hy Soumaulee,
whilst we were living here, fared sumptuously at no expense to me, for
Ohmed Mahomed was more conscientious, or had began to know me better
than to make his every second day demand for a bullock.

Diseases of the eyes I found most prevalent among the Dankalli.
Sometimes I was asked to afford assistance in cases of severe sword and
spear wounds. One of the men belonging to the kraal where I found the
boxes had three large wounds in the side, each one of which looked
sufficient to have produced death; and besides these, he had a spear
wound completely through the muscles of the thigh.

In treating several of their complaints I had recourse to an infallible
water-cure, for having but a small stock of medicine, I was obliged to
contrive how to make them go as far as I could. Epsom salts, among other
sweet things, was considered quite a bon-bon, and of this article I had
but about one pound weight, so I dispensed it generally in tea-spoonsful
to each applicant, instructing them, at the same time, that to increase
its effect they must drink a great deal of water immediately after
taking it. In one case, an anxious mother returned some two or three
hours after I had given her son a dose of the salts. As she stooped down
to look into my apothecary’s shop, chattering away, she pointed to a
large empty water-skin which she held in her hand; I could not
understand her, but Zaido came to my assistance, and explained, that the
woman wished to know, if her son might relieve himself by making water,
“for,” said he, “he has taken three of those water-skinsful already, and
he must do so, before he can drink any more, or he will burst most
assuredly.” I gave the desired permission, and the woman departed.
“Zaido,” said I, when she was gone, “when I say, drink a great deal of
water, I do not mean as much as a thirsty camel can take, but only a
good sized basket-full.” Zaido, as my assistant dispenser and
interpreter, promised attention, and no deaths in consequence of
excessive drinking occurred.

During the two last evenings of our stay in this place, several
individuals of the Muditu people appeared on the outskirts of our camp,
in parties of three or four. They were not received amongst us;
generally standing at a distance of thirty or forty yards from the salt
loads and stores. They examined us with some degree of interest, and
were evidently endeavouring to form some idea of our purposes and
movements. Their appearance, however, broke through the reserve that had
for the better part of two days been observed between me and the people
of the Kafilah, on account of my apparent predilection, for the father
of their detested rival, Mahomed Allee. They now came to my hut, telling
me in a low voice I must come out to frighten away the Assa-hemerah
Muditu, by firing off my guns. This was done with very good effect, for
they invariably took the hint, and after a few minutes’ stay, to save
their honour, I suppose, they moved off the ground. On one of these
warning intimations, a loud laugh was raised at the expense of one of
our Muditu visitors, who, in the sudden astonishment occasioned by the
report, brought up his spear to the attitude for launching it, but with
the butt-end towards me.

One evening, Carmel Ibrahim, the Hy Soumaulee chief, was sitting upon
the ground by my side, amusing himself and me by his vain endeavours to
count thirty, which proved to be beyond his arithmetical powers, even
with the aid of small stones. Counting these by fives, he produced a
total of thirty-five, and when I said they were wrong, he added another
five to correct the error. At last, with the aid of Allee, who had been
taught the Arabic numerals at school in Tajourah, the thirty stones were
ranged in a line, and I began my lesson, to learn their names in the
Affah or Dankalli tongue.

Whilst thus engaged, Allee caught sight of three men coming in a
direction from the north, the country of the Assa-hemerah. They
approached the Kafilah very cautiously, and evidently trying to conceal
their advance, by covering themselves with the low bushes between us and
them. Carmel and Allee sprung to their spears, crying out the usual
alarm, “Koo, koo, koo,” whilst I made a dive into my hut for my carabine
and pistols. All the Kafilah men rushed to arms, and we were soon
sitting, as usual, in a semicircular line, in a direction looking
towards the expected foe.

After sitting nearly half an hour, and no enemy appearing, Carmel
Ibrahim got up, and beckoning to me to accompany him, we went together
for some distance in the front, until it was too dark to discern distant
objects, when we returned, and dissipated the apprehensions of the rest
as to any body of men being in the neighbourhood. The few first seen
were some prowling thieves, quite as likely to have been Wahama as
Muditu, and could have no hostile intention upon the Kafilah beyond
individual murder, or stealing any trifling thing they might have met
with.

The assembly having dispersed upon our report to their several bowers,
Zaido and Allee set about slaughtering a sheep, Allee cutting the throat
whilst Zaido threw himself upon the struggling animal. Seeing there was
every probability of its escaping, I went to their assistance, calling
out “Allah achbah! Allah achbah!” to summon some Bedouins I saw over the
top of the next bush to give us their aid, conceiving that the common
Islam ejaculation over animals being killed, would be the best
intimation that could be given them, of what was going forward. One of
them understood me properly, and soon came pushing round the bush to
this labour of love. Dropping down by the side of Zaido, he caught hold
of the head of the sheep by the chin, fixed its shoulders against his
knee, and bending the former back, with a furious wrench tore the wound
in the throat open by the force, and effected at once the dislocation of
the neck, and immediate death. Soon flaying the animal, they dragged
asunder the joints, separating the bones from their articulations by
many twists, and with as little use of their well-preserved knives as
possible. The flesh thus almost torn from the body was put into cooking
vessels, whilst the head, with the skin still attached, was placed
amidst the wood ashes of the fire, until the brain was well stewed in
the bony cavity of the skull. The shank bones, broken between large
stones, afforded to their fortunate possessors delicious tit-bits of raw
marrow, drawn with a long spluttering _sough_ into the mouth. The
entrails, after being taken out, were hastily drawn through the closed
hand, to squeeze the contents upon the ground, and without more
dressing, transferred to the pots along with the other meat, and which
were soon bubbling fast and furious, over the crackling, sparkling
brushwood or dried mimosa that formed the fuel. By and by the savage
banquet is prepared, and the meat taken from the pots is put upon mats,
or into the hollow of an old shield; every one now tries to get first to
help himself, all struggling and pushing, but in the best of humour. The
circle nearest the meat hesitating to choose, thinking they possess the
advantage of position, find hands intruding from behind, that carry off
the very pieces, they had just fixed their minds upon.

It was not frequently that I joined these dinners, but whenever I did, I
was received with every attention. One after another would push towards
me his portion of the meat, or cut off with his knife that which he
conceived to be the choicest bit, and which he would hand or toss to me,
according as my distance was, from the party who paid me this
compliment. Nor were they niggardly in the offerings thus made, and
large lumps of fat in quick succession were tempting me to eat from
every side. One lucky fellow, happy in the possession of some part of
the entrails, would, perhaps, before he presented it for my acceptance,
repass it through his pressing fingers, to extract more of its contents,
with a kind of instinct, or an acute perception, that the less it
contained of the dirty matter the more agreeable it would be to me.

I have had occasion previously to mention, that it is usual among the
Dankalli to make but one meal a-day. It is, however, very seldom that
this consists of animal food, for the Bedouins never think of
slaughtering cattle for their own use. Milk, and occasionally, as a
luxury, draughts of the rich fluid butter called ghee, constituting
their food all the year round. On the settlement of blood feuds, when it
is agreed that the compensation, consisting always of a number of
cattle, shall be killed and eaten by the previously contending tribes,
or when an animal has received some serious injury, or is about to die
from disease, are the only occasions of indulgence in animal food.

Grain of any kind, dates, or vegetables, are unknown as the products of
the country of Adal south of Owssa, although many parts are well
calculated for the cultivation of all kinds of useful tropical plants.
Cotton, indigo, and sugar, I am sure would thrive most luxuriantly along
the broad valley of the river of Killalu, called Waha-ambillee, and
which extends from the west of Lake Abhibhad to the extensive and
widely-spreading plains of Errur to the south, to the base of the Oburah
and Goror range.

In my notes written on this spot, I find the following observation
recorded. That portion of the entrails, with which the Dankalli, in
common with the other savage inhabitants of this part of Africa, are
said to adorn themselves, is the omentum, or peritoneal covering of the
bowels, and which corresponds with what, in our butchers’ shops, is
called the leaf, and from which lard is rendered. This omentum abounds
with fat, easily melted by the sun. It is taken and twisted by the hands
into a kind of rope, which is tied around the neck, the ends hanging low
behind the back. It is not, therefore, for ornament that entrails are
worn by these people, but for the relief and comfort the skin receives
from unctuous substances, when liable to exposure under a burning sun,
and which has dictated the employment, of this natural and constant
supply of grease, in the manner I have described.

One afternoon I was again treated with an extempore song, a method of
expressing their feelings which appears to afford great pleasure to the
Dankalli. I was sitting on the ground at the entrance of my hut,
thinking upon past scenes and pleasures, at the same time humming a
favourite old tune. This attracted the attention of Moosa, who, with the
large wooden packing-needle they use for sewing the palm-leaf salt-bags,
was mending my mule’s head-gear, two straps of which had got broken.
Ejecting, with averted head, a great quantity of tobacco juice from his
mouth far upon the sand, he began a low muttering song, which was soon
joined in by Carmel Ibrahim, who lay in a neighbouring bush, Carmel, as
usual, introducing my name, and exciting considerable mirth among the
listeners who gathered around, but their merriment was as far as
possible from being of a disrespectful character.

Every evening ball-playing amused the greater part of the Kafilah
people, and the loud shouts on the Wahama side told of their being also
engaged in the same noisy busy game. It was rather too boisterous for me
to join, though I was often invited by our party, but I showed off by
balancing some heavy sheets of pewter, Ohmed Medina was taking up to the
Shoan market. All these I could lift with the greatest ease, and project
them from one shoulder a considerable distance. None of my Dankalli
companions could do this, and although I was very weak from my recent
illness, they all acknowledged my superior strength. This was admitted
on more than one occasion; but I recollect once particularly, at
Arabderah, being requested to heave away, a large stone half buried in
the soil. Garahmee, on going to prayers, there being no water, was
necessitated to go through the performance in sand, and the cavity in
which the stone was embedded was to represent the bathing vessel. Moosa,
Carmel Ibrahim, Ohmed Medina, all tried to remove the stone without the
least effect, but I rolled it out with comparative ease. From this
circumstance, which was corroborated by other opportunities of
observation, I do not consider bodily strength to be a characteristic of
the Dankalli, although for agility and endurance under fatigue, I think
they are unequalled by any people, not excepting even the North American
Indians. That they would incur voluntarily this exercise of their
physical and moral endurance is another thing, and from what little I
know of them I do not think they would.

After remaining at Hiero Murroo five days, I was not sorry to find that
we were to start on the morning of the sixth. Although I had determined
not to appear anxious to get the journey over, still I could not help
bribing Ebin Izaak with five dollars, to induce Ohmed Mahomed not to
delay our march, after the boxes of Mahomed Allee’s Kafilah came into
camp, which was on the morning of the fifth day of our stay, and
accordingly, before evening, I received the intimation of our move the
next morning. During the last day we were joined by several smaller
Kafilahs, of from eight to twenty camels, so that we could now muster
with the Wahama Kafilah, between three and four hundred camels, and
nearly two hundred fighting men.


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                              CHAPTER XXV.


Journey from Hiero Murroo to Mettah.—General direction, W.S.W., time
  marching four hours and a-half.—Conversation upon different roads
  through Adal to Shoa.—Commercial jealousy between the Muditu and the
  Dankalli.—Battle of Hihillo.—Surprise sleeping friend.—Frighten my
  servant Allee.—Halt near Assa-hemerah kraal.


_May 12th._—We were up and away long before sunrise. Ohmed Medina and I
were accompanied by a crowd of the escort and Kafilah men, all
discoursing upon some great engagement that had taken place some few
years before, when Lohitu led the combined Dankalli tribes against the
Assa-hemerah Muditu, who occupied the whole country on the east of the
Hawash, from Owssa to the ford of Mulkukuyu, where our road crossed the
Hawash. The scene of this sanguinary conflict was about two hours’ march
to the north-west of where we were, at the base of a high conical
mountain which now came into sight, having previously been shut from the
view by the small range of Abhidah. Almost all my Hy Soumaulee escort
had been present in the battle, and I received long accounts, during the
march, through the interpreting medium of Ohmed Medina, who himself was
not there, but who took as much interest in the relations as I did.

It appears that for some years previous to 1839, the road to Shoa had
been closed to the merchants of Tajourah and of Ambabboo, who previously
had carried on an extensive trade with that country, taking up salt from
Lake Assal, and receiving in return Abyssinian slaves, who were sold to
great advantage in the Mahomedan ports on the shores of the Red Sea. The
Assa-hemerah live on the north side of the more western portion of the
road through Adal, and although speaking the same language, deny their
nationality with the Dankalli tribes. This was their plea for extorting
exorbitant duties for many years previous to 1839, but having at length
fully established an intercourse with Shoa through their own country, by
another passage of the river Hawash, north of Mulkukuyu, they
endeavoured to monopolize the trade in salt and slaves. To effect this,
they seized the whole country to the north of the road to Bahr Assal,
and allowed no Tajourah Kafilah either to load with salt at the lake, or
to proceed for slaves to Shoa.

For several years the Assa-hemerah had thus excluded all but their own
Kafilahs from entering Shoa by the direct road, attacking and plundering
all other Kafilahs that attempted it. I make the observation “direct
road,” for we learn from the journal of Isenberg and Krapf, published by
the Church Missionary Society, that the Tajourah people had some
communication still with the kingdom of Shoa. They were, however,
obliged to move with their camels along the sea-shore to the head of
Goobat ul Khhrab, then, during the night, pass rapidly over the five or
six miles which intervene between the sea in this situation and the salt
lake. Loading their camels with the salt, they then returned to
Tajourah. From this town they proceeded to Zeilah in bogalows, or native
boats, and by a circuitous route through the country of the Issah
Soumaulee, at length reached Shoa.

It was not likely such a palmy state of things, for the Assa-hemerah
people, would be allowed to flourish long, without exciting some envy
and jealousy, especially among the inhabitants of Tajourah and Owssa,
who had not forgotten the great advantages that accrued to them when an
uninterrupted road allowed them to carry on a direct trade with the
populous countries to the west of the Hawash. Accordingly, through the
machinations of some of the wise men of Tajourah, the braves of all the
Dankalli tribes in the interior, consented to combine their forces under
one leader, and Lohitu, the Debenee chief, was unanimously chosen to
fill that post. Owssa is inhabited by a Muditu tribe, but on this
occasion they assisted the Tajourah people, because of their dependence
upon that port, to enable them to communicate with foreign markets, as
the Owssa Muditu carry on a considerable trade with Gondah and Central
Abyssinia. The other leagued tribes were the Issah Soumaulee, the
Wahama, the Hy Soumaulee, the Debenee, and a mixed multitude of minor
subdivisions that could scarcely be considered separate tribes. Tajourah
and Ambabboo also sent their warriors; but Ohmed Medina laughed when he
said they only sent ten men between them. Altogether the combined forces
amounted to one thousand men, who were gathered together on San-karl to
the west of the valley of Gobard, and which I recollected to have been
pointed out to me by Lohitu himself as the rendezvous of his tribe on
such occasions.

From San-karl they proceeded to Kuditee, and slept there the night
preceding the engagement. The next morning they entered the country of
the Assa-hemerah, two thousand of whom had collected upon the flank of
the mountain Hyhilloo, to give battle to the invaders. Lohitu led his
men directly to their front, and after a few personal combats, in which
the leader and my little Tajourah acquaintance, Ibrahim Shatan,
particularly distinguished themselves, the battle became general, and in
less than one hour after they had first seen the Muditu, the latter
fled, leaving more than one half their number slain.

Of the allies, I was informed, the Issah Soumaulee lost the greatest
number, one hundred of them having been killed. The Debenee lost sixty,
the Wahama eighty, the Hy Soumaulee, a very small tribe, thirty, and the
Owssa Muditu fifty. The Tajourah people lost but one man; whilst of all
the others who fought under Lohitu, not as particular tribes, but as
amateurs, about twenty were killed, making a total of three hundred and
forty-one, and considering the manner in which battles are fought among
these people, I can easily conceive how so few, comparatively, of the
victorious party were slain.

One interesting ethnological fact may be gleaned from this relation;
that is, the presence of the Issah Soumaulee on this occasion, which is
another evidence to prove, the intimate relationship of the Dankalli
with that people.

Conversing upon the subject of this fight, we kept marching on for
nearly five hours, but as we were in the rear of the Kafilah, and
obliged to restrict ourselves to the slow pace of the camels, I do not
think we accomplished more than ten miles during that time. We halted at
a place called Mettah, or Maida, and the appearance of the country
suggested, the appropriateness of the name, which I was given to
understand, signified the same as the English word meadow.

Our march had been all the morning along a narrow plain, confined by low
level ridges of black lava, about a mile distant from each other.
Through the centre, but in a very serpentine course, a shallow channel
had been cut through the fine alluvial soil, by an occasional stream,
which flows towards the north and east. When we passed along its banks
we only found a few shallow stagnant pools in its bed.

On leaving the line of march with Ohmed Medina to examine the stream
more closely, we found, in its dry bed, very soundly sleeping, a man
wrapt up in his tobe, his shield being secured by it over his stomach
and bowels. Instinct, or something like it, had taught me the very same
method of partially securing myself from assassination, whenever I
expected foul play, or have had reason to suspect those, whom I well
knew, would have been glad of an opportunity to take away my life,
without danger to themselves from my firearms. Putting my hand to the
heavy Adal knife I wore in my girdle, I turned to Ohmed Medina, to ask
him if I should bury it in the heart of the unconscious sleeper. He
taking my proposal to be serious, instantly interposed with the common
Arabic negative, “La! la!” but which, in the usual amusing manner of an
Adal interpretation, he prolonged to five or six repetitions. This awoke
the man, who certainly looked as if he thought he were about to be put
to death, and scowled most desperately, as in a moment he put himself
behind his shield, and raised his spear for the attack. Ohmed Medina
calmed his apprehensions by a word or two, but he also took care to drop
behind his shield, as he spoke from the overhanging bank. The man,
however, recovered confidence, let fall his weapon to the ground, and
stood upright, and in a very short time we were all three walking back
to the Hy Soumaulee, some of whom came to meet us, to inquire from
whence our new friend had sprung. It seemed he belonged to the Wahama
tribe, but from some cause or other was obliged to be very select in his
lodgings, probably from having had a recent quarrel, which would have
insured his death, had he been discovered by his enemy asleep.

At Mettah, the narrow plain we had travelled along spread out into an
open level country, which appeared bounded by an extensive sea, so
perfectly delusive was the appearance of the distant mirage, in which
small eminences, here and there appearing, looked like islets standing
amidst the waters. Large sand-pillars, their bases hidden in the mirage,
rising like spirits from the vasty deep, until their tall summits were
lost in the blue sky, moved steadily across, acted upon by some stronger
current of air, and added one more circumstance to strengthen the
delusion, by reminding the travelled spectator, of the water-spouts he
has witnessed at sea. After all my experience I persisted in believing
that there must be water before me, especially as it lay in the
situation of a lake, Murroo, I had heard Lieut. Barker speak of, but
Ohmed Medina very quietly referred me, to the stream and its course in
an opposite direction, to corroborate his statement of its being “a
great lie.”

My mule breaking loose, in consequence of not having been properly
secured by Allee, strayed to a considerable distance towards the
opposite side of the plain, and a large party went out to protect Zaido,
and both Allees, who were sent to bring her in, for it appeared our
movements were being watched by a party of men, squatting on the
extremity of the ridge where it projected into the plain. So nearly
approaching to the colour of these rocks, were the dark skins of the
natives, that it was sometime before I could make them out, or the cause
of all the bustle that seemed to have taken possession of the previously
quiet camp. I thought at first it was some leopard or hyena,
preparations were being made to hunt, that had occasioned the stir, and
came out of my hut to see the anticipated sport. When I did discover the
men I was surprised that such a number could have approached so close,
and not have been discovered before. They must have marched parallel to
us, covered by the ridge on our left, and the circumstance of its
terminating opposite to where we had halted, prevented them continuing
their ambush for any purposes of surprise, and our increased numbers
made an open attack by them, out of the question. After the mule was
driven in, they retired, but upon a report spreading that a large kraal
of the Assa-hemerah lay over the other side of the ridge, my Hy
Soumaulee friends, and most of the young men of the Kafilah, determined
to proceed thither for the purpose, as they said on my protesting
against it, to purchase milk. As, however, I knew that robbery was
intended, and that murder would probably ensue, I offered them a bullock
to remain, which they very reluctantly accepted. On my expostulating
with Ohmed Medina, he admitted it was not right, and said very candidly,
“What are my countrymen but wild beasts?”

Allee the First, now came into my hut to claim damages, showing a bruise
upon his face, which he asserted had been inflicted by the mule, whilst
catching her to bring her back to the camp. I said it was no such thing;
for ever since her back had been almost broken by the butt-end of the
spear of a fat Dankalli, whom she kicked in the belly, I observed she
had improved very much in her disposition, and was very cautious how she
attempted anything of the sort. However, I told him I would look in my
book and see if his tale were correct. Opening, with a very grave
countenance, Mr. M‘Queen’s Survey of Africa, which I had just been
consulting, I looked up, after having examined it, and said, “Allee,
Allee, you are a story-teller, for Ohmed Mahomed hit you that blow in
your face.” I never shall forget the consternation that appeared in his
face, as ejaculating “Whallah!” (By God), he backed out of my hut,
thinking, I really believe, that I should metamorphose him into
something or other before he could get away, for his attempted
imposition. Having got safe out of my hut, however, he recovered from
his fright, and, as if recollecting himself, said, “Ahkeem, will you
tell me who stole my fedeenah?” alluding to the wooden prop or pillow
for the head, I have before observed, as being so generally used by
these people. By a singular accident this very fedeenah had been placed
under my head by one of the Hy Soumaulee, as I slept out upon the
hillside amongst them at Kuditee, whilst expecting the Wahama would
attack us. When I was awakened by Ohmed Mahomed in the middle of the
night, and told to return to my hut, the man who carried my mat for me
brought away the pillow; whose it was I did not know, but as no
inquiries were made about it, I always afterwards rolled it up in my
Arab cloak for myself, as I found it very comfortable after a little
use. I instantly suspected that this was the one respecting which Allee
wanted information, and so, affecting to know all about it, I told him I
would not tell him who the thief was, for the sake of peace, but that if
he came in the evening I would return it myself to him. This, of course,
I did, and quite convinced Allee of my immense power over the Jinn. The
evil that resulted from this was, that a rumour was spread among the
Kafilah that I had dealings with these spirits of fire, Allee swearing
positively I carried one with me confined in a bottle, and that he had
frequently seen me consulting it. The simple fellow meant my
thermometer.

After sunset a large drove of camels, sheep, and goats, were seen moving
towards the Assa-hemerah village behind the ridge, but we saw nothing
more of the inhabitants. They were evidently influenced by some hostile
feeling towards us, for on every other occasion of being in an inhabited
neighbourhood, the women, or at least the children, would bring in milk
or young kids as presents, or for sale.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                             CHAPTER XXVI.


Journey from Mettah to Murroo, general direction, W.S.W., time marching,
  three hours and a-half.—Remarks upon the climate of Adal.—Pass some
  small extinct volcanoes.—A little farriery.—Cautions for practitioners
  of medicine resident among the Dankalli.—Halt for a short time at
  Kuma.—Second visit of Abu Bukeree.—Proceed to Murroo.—Halt near kraal
  of Durtee Ohmed, Sheik of the Sidee Ahbreu tribe.


_May 13th._—Up at sunrise, and soon after the party of pedestrians
followed the camels, proceeding along the plain in a west-south-west
direction. The hills of Affrabah to the south-west, the terminal peak of
the same range to the south-east, with the Hyhilloo mountain to the
north, formed a well-defined triangular space of flat open country,
which admitted the eye to range over an unbroken view of about ten miles
on every side. Nor was this a sterile tract, but covered with a jungle
of young mimosa trees, and plenty of excellent grass. Numerous dry
watercourses presented themselves as we marched along, and in some, the
yet soft clayey soil intimated the recent evaporation of the water. I
should have observed, that slight showers of rain, of not longer than
two or three minutes’ duration, occurred during every night of our stay
in Hiero Murroo. These were the last sprinklings of the wet season, if
the country of Adal may be said to have such distinctions in the unfixed
character of its climate. The squally thunder-storms of February, and
the great heats of August, constitute the extremes of annual difference,
but the persistence in the character of even these months cannot be
assured, and from what I observed myself, the reverse of these
conditions are just as likely to happen. The same vicissitudes, I was
told, characterize every month, and in different parts of Adal these
states of the atmosphere exist at the same time. In such an irregular
and uncertain climate, the presence of the cloud of fire by night, and
the pillar of sand by day are invaluable, as guides to the Bedouin in
search of water for his flocks, and natural history does not contain a
more striking illustration of the benevolent purposes of God towards
man, even in his most evil condition, than these phenomena present.

The singular position of the country of Adal is probably the cause of
this irregularity in the seasons. Islands that are surrounded by seas
are acknowledged to have their climates modified by the circumstances of
their situation; and differing in kind, but exactly analogous, is the
effect which is produced by the low position of Adal, surrounded on all
sides, except towards the east, by elevated table lands. A reference to
the map appended to this volume illustrates my idea better, perhaps,
than I can describe it. It will be there seen, that to the north a
water-shed directs the course of the river Takazza to the Nile, whilst
to the south, an oppositely correspondent water-shed is drained by the
river Whabbee, emptying itself into the Indian Ocean at Juba. Instead of
a mountain range, which usually marks the separations of different
watersheds, we here have a huge fissure of habitable land, drained by
its own particular water system. To the west, the high plateau of
Abyssinia closes the excavated plain of Adal, but it will be perceived
that in that direction the progress of extension is rapidly going on, by
the denuding agency of the river Hawash, which is annually removing its
courses farther to the west, by the vast amount of the Abyssinian
highland, it carries away during the rainy season in that country.

To this peculiar situation of Adal, therefore, I attribute the great
irregularity in the season of the rains, generally so periodical in
other intratropical districts. Opportunities of observation have been
only afforded me, of becoming acquainted with the fact, but the
character of the surrounding countries being known, and the relative
position of Adal with these, being borne in mind, I have no doubt
meteorologists will be able to account, for the irregularity and
vicissitudes of the climate.

To the left of our road, a lake called Iruloff was reported to exist,
which contained water all the year round. It communicates with the river
of Killaloo. My attention was directed to the subject, by seeing in that
direction a cloud of some thousands of the white ibis moving along the
horizon. They were much smaller than the Egyptian ibis, and more like
the paddy bird of India.

Towards the latter end of our march to-day the field of extinct craters
again appeared, the cones much larger, and increasing in height as they
approached the base of Hyhilloo and Abhidah. The trees and shrubs
clothing their sides seemed thicker and more luxuriant; and the ground
over which we marched was covered with light green grass, a small
lemon-flavoured fragrant mint, and the little blue-flowered
thorny-leaved plant of which the camels appear to be so fond. This
latter grows about four or five inches high, the numerous flowerets
growing along a spike like an ear of wheat, and when the seed is ripe it
is not unlike, in form or size, shrivelled corn.

Ohmed Mahomed was very ill this morning, and obliged to ride his mule.
Another awkward circumstance upon the march was a camel, subject to
epileptic fits, falling, was obliged to be unloaded. The Kafilah people
all attributed it to Jinn, and as the animal stumbled as if he were
drunk, it was not a bad cause to assign for his complaint, especially as
he was laden with a few dozens of choice Geneva going up for the use of
the Mission in Shoa. This, by the bye, had got the name of
“hubble-bubble,” from the rattling of the stone bottles against each
other, as the husks of some kind of seed, in which they were first
packed, got shaken out of the boxes. One of the great complaints brought
against Mahomed Allee by the Tajourah people was, his having “shrab
hubble-bubble,” drunk all the gin that had been entrusted to his care as
Ras ul Kafilah. Whatever spirit, however, possessed the camel, I was
applied to, to exorcise it. To do this I took a large lump of myrrh I
had just gathered from the tree, and a piece of opium I happened to have
with me. These I rolled up in paper like a horse ball, and having seen
something of the sort in farriery, when giving medicine to cattle, I
caught hold of the camel’s tongue with one hand, and passed the other,
arm, elbow, and all, far down his throat, so that the animal could not
get his physic back again any how; a mode of medical treatment that
delighted the Dankalli exceedingly; and, had they been governors of an
hospital, they would have been unanimous in appointing me physician, on
the ground of my merits alone. My success, too, was surprising, for the
camel recovered for the time, and this addition to my fame, increased
the confidence of Ohmed Mahomed, in the efficacy of the remedies I had
also given to him. Had this latter been treated properly he ought to
have been bled, as he was evidently labouring under a determination of
blood to the head.

I was prevented performing this little operation by recollecting the
case of an unfortunate Armenian doctor, who, in Suikin, two years
before, had been sacrificed by the populace on account of the death of a
patient whom he had thus treated. The Turkish Governor of the town,
before whom the complaint was made of this treatment, in vain interceded
in behalf of the doctor; his expostulations had no effect, and he was
obliged to permit that which he was unable to prevent, and the accused
was taken from his presence to the outside of the walls of the town,
where he was barbarously executed in the usual manner, by the weapons of
the friends and relations of his deceased patient. I heard of this in
Aden, the fact having been reported by the European Consuls in the
neighbouring ports to their respective Governments, and, in consequence,
a representation was made to the Porte upon the subject. In such
countries if a traveller be requested to afford assistance to sick
persons, for whom no hope of recovery exists, his best practice will be
to recommend the friends of the patient to pray a certain number of
times to Allah, or if he finds he must do something himself, let him
give them some written charm or other, but never by any means administer
medicine or perform the least operation. In cases when active measures
are adopted, and the patient, to the surprise of himself and others,
does get well, the cure is always ascribed to Allah alone; but should he
die, the doctor is considered responsible for his death, which is
certain to be attributed to him or his medicines. To show how careful a
person ought to be, I shall relate a little incident that occurred to me
whilst we were staying at our last halting-place. A woman came for some
medicine for her husband, who was said to be very ill indeed. I could
not go to see him as he lived ten or twelve miles from the Kafilah. As
the woman was very importunate for medicine, which, having no knowledge
of the case, I at first refused, to get rid of her, I opened a package
of tea, and giving her a small spoonful, wrapt it up in a bit of old
newspaper, and sent her away, with directions how to use it. The next
morning, however, I found her, making a terrible noise at the entrance
of my hut, saying that her husband was a great deal worse, and all owing
to the medicine he had taken. No one could understand the simple
character of the remedy I had sent him, so all my explanations went for
nothing, until I happened to see, sticking between her skin petticoat
and her own black hide, the identical paper I had put the medicine in;
and snatching it from her waist, I found the tea still in it, actually
untouched. This evidence of the woman’s imposture was conclusive, and
she was taken away by those of her friends, who just before were making
loud demands of compensation, for the injury they asserted I had done.

In simple cases of temporary disordered functions, or when medicine
could be demonstrated to possess specific effects upon the seat of some
organic disease, I always gladly availed myself of the opportunity of
displaying the advantages and power, derivable from the knowledge of the
medical properties of natural substances. In fact, I always pleaded to
the more intelligent of my companions, that the desire to obtain an
increase of knowledge, as an Ahkeem, was the principal reason why I had
left my country to expose my health and life in a country like Adal,
among a people so barbarous as even the Dankalli acknowledged themselves
to be.

The Kafilah halted at Kuma, and a few camels were already unloaded, when
it was determined by Ohmed Medina and Ohmed Mahomed, that we should
proceed at once to Murroo, the residence of a tribe called Sidee Ahbreu,
to the chief of which, one Durtee Ohmed, I had a kind of introduction
from Lieutenant Barker, similar to the one I had to Abu Bukeree. Of this
latter chieftain I had lost sight for several days, although his wives
and children often visited me, bright with smiles, sometimes bringing me
little skins of milk, or a large German-sausage-looking affair,
consisting of a portion of the dried intestine of a cow filled with
ghee. The absence of Abu Bukeree was occasioned by the presence of Abu
Mahomed, the father of Mahomed Allee, who was still with the Wahama
Kafilah which preceded us about two miles, and who would often visit me
in our camp. Two suns at a time are allowed to be too many by the
Dankalli; and so, with a becoming politeness, these old gentlemen had
agreed to divide my attentions and presents, the father of Mahomed Allee
to have the benefit of my acquaintance to Kuma, where the undisputed
territory of Abu Bukeree commenced, and this latter was then to take his
turn to Murroo. I do not think that when this arrangement was made
between them, Abu Bukeree said anything about the present I had already
given him. At all events, our Ras ul Kafilah had been no party to this
negotiation, and his determination to proceed without halting at Kuma
quite deranged their plan; Ohmed Mahomed conceived that it would be more
profitable for him to continue the day’s journey on to Murroo, to avoid
any more demands from Abu Bukeree for presents, on the plea of halting
in his territory. Instructions were accordingly given to the Kafilah not
to unload here. A short explanatory calahm with the Debenee chief, who
was already on the ground to receive us, occasioned a little detention,
but, as already observed, as he had received other presents at Hiero
Murroo besides those I had given to him, he was obliged to be satisfied.

I did not like to see the old man treated in this manner, especially as
I thought advantage had been taken of the peaceable character of himself
and his tribe; so when he came to pay his respects to me as I sat under
a tree, waiting with Zaido until the numerous camels had again gone some
distance a-head, I promised him if he would accompany us to Murroo, to
give him the old Arab frock I then wore. He accordingly accompanied us
to our encamping ground, and received the almost worn-out garment with
many thanks, as he held it up before him, like a Jew calculating the
probable value of an old coat. After examining its novel cut and
character, the venerable chief at last made up his mind what to do with
it, for, nodding to his wife, who was in, what is called, a delicate
situation, he intimated his idea that it would very well become her, and
bestowed it accordingly.

Two little boys were now ordered to drive back a fine bullock, which had
evidently been intended as a return present, for those which Abu Bukeree
had expected from us. The old gentleman then bowed his salams, and
mounted his mule; stooping, as he rode away, over the neck of the
animal; the long bent back of age, strikingly contrasted with the
straight shaft of the spear he carried on his shoulder.

Our halting-place, Murroo, was a natural park, in which small green
savannahs were surrounded with tall, flat-topped mimosa-trees, the
trunks of which were hidden, by an interlaced thicket of the ascending
and descending runners of some luxuriantly growing climber. An immense
number of sparrow-like birds, with their noisy chirrupings, seemed to
raise great objections to our occupation of their favourite resort. The
little woodland scene was altogether very pretty; but I was too tired
after our long journey of five hours, to have any eye for the beautiful,
and was glad to lie down in my hut immediately it was announced ready,
bid Zaido place a mat over the entrance, and go to sleep at once.

At sunset, I awoke; Zaido bringing a large bowl of boiled wheat and
clouted cream for my supper, and under the influence of an excellent
appetite, I soon lessened its contents. A strange kind of humming now
attracted my attention, and, getting out of my hut, I observed, at no
great distance, a small circle of Tajourah people, who, neither in
calahm nor zekar, seemed still to be occupied in the performance of some
ceremony, each of the six persons engaged, taking his turn to repeat a
short sentence or so, in a low murmuring tone, and then giving way to
the next. Going nearer, to see what they were about, I was joined by
Allee, who informed me they were doctoring Ohmed Mahomed, in their own
fashion, by offering up prayers to Allah, and asked if I thought he
would recover. As I had already given to him three strong cathartic
pills, and his case was not a desperate one, I held out hopes to the
distressed Allee, that probably the next morning his master would be
quite well. Having approached the circle, and dropt upon my heels, close
behind them, I watched the proceedings of these devotee practitioners in
medicine, and noticed that each one, in succession, recited in a low
voice, the first chapter of the Koran, and then spit upon the patient,
who, wrapt up in a black Arab cloak, was lying at full length upon a
mat, in the midst of them. Every one having duly performed this
ceremony, the circle broke up, and coffee being brought, the good effect
of the combined praying and spitting was acknowledged by all, when Ohmed
Mahomed sat up, and called for the first cup.

This kind of medical treatment is not confined to the diseases of
mankind, for on more than one occasion I have seen them adopt the same
means of relief for a sick camel. When one of these animals lies down
for the night, without performing a little necessary act, it is always
considered a certain symptom of ill-health. The owner in this case,
procures a piece of string long enough to go round the body of the
camel, in which he ties seven knots, at nearly equal distances from each
other. As he does this, at each knot, he stops and recites the Fahtah,
or first chapter of the Koran, and should he not be able to do this
himself, he procures the assistance of some learned friend, who performs
that part of the duty for him. At the end of each Fahtah, the knot is
spit upon. The string being thus duly consecrated, is then passed under
the animal’s belly, and tied upon the back, and during the night,
generally produces the diuretic effects desired.

_May 14th._—Staying at Murroo. The first thing I did to-day was to get
out some paper I intended to distribute among the members of the Sidee
Ahbreu tribe, whom I expected to come begging. The first thing Allee the
First did, was to steal the said paper, whilst I was busy packing up the
box again. This he accomplished by putting his hand and arm between two
boxes that formed part of my hut, and reaching from behind me the paper,
which he then conveyed away beneath his tobe. I did not know who to
charge with the robbery, but upon complaining to Ohmed Medina, he made
some inquiries about it, which led to the detection of Master Allee,
who, on being brought before me, retorted by charging me with having
stolen his fedeenah, or wooden pillow. However innocently on my part,
such being the actual case, I consented to a compromise. I was to
receive back my paper, and Allee again into favour, without prejudice to
his boxeish in Shoa, for his falling off in this instance, from the
strict path of duty and honesty. It must be told how he came to know,
that I had had possession of his fedeenah during the time he had lost
it, and had not, as he at first supposed, procured its return to him by
magical incantations. Whilst sitting the evening before with the praying
party, after their curious ceremony was over, I was questioned as to my
power over the inhabitants of the nether world. I denied any such power,
stating that the spell I employed to dispossess the devil, or Jinn, from
the sick camel, was a piece of myrrh, and not the paper it was wrapt up
in. Then came the question how had I been able to procure the return of
the wooden pillow; for Allee, as soon as I had given it to him, changed
his previous tale of its having been stolen, and asserted he had left it
behind at a halting-place, some days’ journey distance, from whence my
familiar spirit had brought it at my command. This I satisfactorily
explained by relating the whole circumstances; and Allee being laughed
at for his credulity, now fell back upon the circumstance of my keeping
the fedeenah, without any inquiry as to whom it belonged, to excuse his
theft of the paper.

Abu Bukeree’s daughter brought some milk he had promised me, and begged
hard for a dollar in silver. I referred her to Ohmed Mahomed, who, at my
request, gave her, but very unwillingly, a head-covering of blue sood,
and sent her away.

Our camp was about half a mile from the village of Durtee Ohmed, who
was, as I was told, then on an expedition against the Alla Gallas,
assisting a party of Wahama, who had gone to retaliate for some recent
outrages committed by that people. In accordance with the request of
Lieut. Barker, I intended to have given him a present, on being
introduced to him, similar to the one I gave Abu Bukeree, and had
provided five dollars for that purpose; as he was from home, however, I
fancied they were so many dollars saved, put them up again, and thought
no more of the matter.

In the evening Ohmed Medina left us, going with Garahmee and Moosa,
nearly all the way back again to Herhowlee, as they heard that an
elephant had been recently killed at Dowaleeka; and with the hope of
being able to purchase the ivory from the hunters, this party started
intending to travel the whole night.

Plenty of women thronged the camp, and the men of the tribe, were
particularly friendly and quiet. I soon found that family connexions
between several of the principal Tajourah people and the elders of the
Sidee Ahbreu occasioned the good feeling that existed between us. During
our stay at Murroo, a regular fair was held, and at night, singing,
dancing, and clapping hands, kept us up until a very late hour. Every
day we were receiving fresh accounts of the inroads of the Alla and
Hittoo Gallas from the south, who were driving off cattle, and carrying
away the younger women of the Dankalli tribes in their immediate
neighbourhood. This, however, did not interfere with the festivity of
the camp, for other Kafilahs came in to join us from every side, and by
the third day of our stay, we had in company more than one thousand
camels, and could muster above five hundred fighting men. The different
Kafilahs kept to themselves, each taking up such a position as was most
convenient, but never at a greater distance from each other than two
hundred yards.

The next day after we arrived, much to my surprise, for I thought him
far enough away, Durtee Ohmed reported himself, and looked somewhat the
better for the late stirring business he had been upon; for, instead of
having but one eye, according to the description I recollected to have
been given by Lieut. Barker, he had two quite as good as my own. I
mentioned this to Ebin Izaak who had accompanied him, as he then
explained, for fear any mistake might arise from this circumstance, and
that I should refuse to give him the present, on account of the
discrepancy in the appearance of the claimant, from what had been
represented to be the case. He was also ready to swear on the Koran as
to the identity of the man, and although not perfectly satisfied, still,
as I had not been cheated extraordinarily by Ebin Izaak, I thought I
would receive his testimony on this occasion, so gave the man three
dollars, with which he went away perfectly satisfied.

Several messengers arrived from other Kafilahs on the road, all desiring
us not to move until they had joined us. I was not sorry for the
detention, having derived much benefit in my health since we reached
Murroo. I was also nearly naturalized among the Dankalli, who had become
accustomed to my complexion, and as for my clothes, they were not very
different, either in hue or condition, from theirs. My yellow Arab frock
was no novel thing to the Tajourah people, and a few days’ journey
through the thorny jungle, and a few nights’ repose upon the ground,
soon took the respectability out of it, and I was as ragged as any lover
of freedom, or of nature, would ever desire to be. My broad-brimmed hat
was considered a great curiosity, and greasy heads of males and females,
would frequently try it on to see how it would fit. One of the old women
too, pulled on my boots, the tops of which scarcely came up to the
bottom of her skin petticoat. A chase was made after her, for she
started off with them, and so long was she in returning, that I began
seriously to think, she had run away with them under pretence of sport.

The Sidee Ahbreu were certainly the most lively and least quarrelsome of
any of the tribes I had yet seen. Neither was this friendship purchased,
for having disposed of everything I could well part with, I took care
that they should know it by oft-repeated assertions that I had given all
away upon the previous march. The good resulting from this was, that I
had fewer beggars to satisfy in this place than anywhere else.

My stay with these people, led me to form a much better opinion of the
character of the Dankalli, than I previously had done. Whether I had
become accustomed to my situation, or really liked the life I was
leading, I do not know; but, for one or the other reason, I enjoyed
myself more here than anywhere else, during the long period I had been
absent from England.


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                             CHAPTER XXVII.


Amusements during stay at Murroo.—Bull fight.—Eating raw meat.—Another
  offer of marriage.—Strange mode of dressing the hair.—Caution to
  travellers; perhaps unnecessary.


EVERY morning I accompanied Himyah with his matchlock, after the
numerous herds of antelope that came in sight. On one occasion, I
slightly wounded a fine doe, which, getting away, we took care
afterwards to make my mule one of the party, and, with her assistance,
were enabled to follow, faster and farther our stricken game.

We used to have some excellent sport, and the best fun in the world, for
Ebin Izaak joined us also with his mule, and Adam Burrah bought an old
ragged-looking horse for a dollar and a-half from some of the Sidee
Ahbreu, which we used to swear had been stolen from Shoa. Adam having no
horse furniture whatever, was obliged to make a rude halter of palm-leaf
rope, and for a saddle used to put his dirty tobe beneath him. It
frequently happened in full chase, that his charger stopped suddenly on
the edge of a narrow watercourse, and then, for a certainty, the
half-naked rider would be precipitated over his head. The usual game of
the mounted huntsmen were the young fawns; these they were sometimes
able to separate from their dams, and after a sharp ride of about a
quarter of an hour, directly upon their trail, the exhausted animal
would lie down, and quietly allow its pursuer to dismount, and seize it.
On one occasion, the chase was a doe, I had slightly wounded, but as the
effect of the ball brought her to the ground, she did not recover
herself until Carmel Ibrahim, to whom I had lent my mule, was close upon
her haunches. There was no time to run, so she turned boldly on her
pursuer, and the sudden surprise of the mule at the unusual act,
occasioned the fall of her rider, who came down over her right shoulder,
making sundry scrambling snatches at the mane and neck, to preserve him
from too hard a contact with the sun-dried earth. After all, considering
the vast number of antelopes, of several different kinds, the wydiddoo,
the symbilla, and the sahla, which we saw, we made but a poor display of
slaughtered game; and if I had not had Himyah, who was perpetually
firing at distances too great to do any execution, as a decent excuse
for not being able with my short gun to get near enough, I should have
lost the valuable opinion of many of my Dankalli friends; whose good
behaviour was attributable, in a great measure, to the firm belief they
entertained, that as a shot, I was the most sudden-death kind of
character, they ever had the good fortune to be friends with.

In addition to the amusement of hunting, we had a bull-fight one
evening, on the occasion of killing a large red animal of the kind that
had been purchased for the Hy Soumaulee. He was, as his rearers
themselves acknowledged, a regular “shaitan,” one of the wildest and
most unmanageable beasts that ever objected to be made into beefsteaks
for the use of “the lords of the creation.” The society, however, he was
amongst was well calculated to vindicate our supremacy in the animal
kingdom; and it now became a subject of great public interest to reduce
to obedience and cold meat, our angry, untamed defier; who, undecided on
which point to make an attack, stood gazing, with restless eyes, and
dilated nostrils, upon the noisy circle that was gradually contracting
around him. I offered to shoot the animal, as there appeared some little
shyness on the part of the boldest braves of our party to commence the
fight, but the religious prejudices of the Tajourah people prevented the
quick decision of a bullet; for the meat would of course have been
unholy, if the bull dropped dead without having its throat duly cut, and
the deed sanctified with the usual ul’allah.

The boys and younger men now began to amuse themselves by little
ventures, as if going to rush upon the beast, but immediately running
back to the crowd, when he gave a threatening sweep of his huge head and
horns in that direction in which they appeared to be coming. He was
evidently aware of his desperate situation, for beyond this threatening
display, he scorned further notice of such ignoble enemies, but stood
firmly, as if resolved to reserve his energies and strength for the
life-struggle, that instinct bade him expect, with the yelling crowd
that every moment increased. The circle around the victim, gradually
contracted by the pressure from without, and the growing emulation of
the boldest men, to draw the first blood. A boy on the front, right of
the bull, for a moment drew the animal’s attention by the usual little
teasing pretence, and immediately Carmel Ibrahim, the opportunity having
occurred which favoured his position, rushed forwards, and seizing the
tail, gave heavy and quick blows with his knife above the hock of the
right hind leg. The bull upon this made a fierce charge in front, but
the circle opened in haste, every one falling back upon the flanks;
whilst Carmel, dragged along, was still chopping away, sometimes hitting
and sometimes missing, until exhausted, he was obliged to let go his
hold, and the bull continued his run, bellowing with rage and pain. The
pursuit was general; and as the pace was but a sharp trot, many got
close enough to launch their spears, several of which fell upon the
haunches of the animal, but failed to produce any effect, except to
drive him faster on. The value of the spears, however, prevented much
repetition of this useless mode of proceeding. Before he had got half a
mile from camp, he again halted, and another large circle formed around
him, and after some one had rushed in upon him as Carmel had previously
done, the crowd suddenly opened again upon either side, and the bull,
with a loud roar, came dashing back, ploughing the earth furiously with
his horns, and not halting in his career until brought up by the line of
spectators in the camp, who had not joined in the pursuit. Again he
stood and gazed around him for some retreat, but his restless, bloodshot
eyes, and quick moving face were only turned upon foes. I again offered
to be the butcher; and the ill success of those who had so far attempted
to kill him, induced Ohmed Mahomed to consent, at the same time waving
with his hand to the distant people in rear of the bull to get out of
the way. I examined both locks of my carabine, and being assured that
all was right, walked straight up to the animal until he made his
charge, and fired, as he came down, sweeping the earth with his face.
Whatever fury, or whatever madness excited him, he was not blinded by
either, for the flash of my carabine evidently turned him in his career;
for the ball, instead of passing through the head, as I had intended,
much to my surprise, went completely through both shoulder-blades, and
he tumbled over and over upon the ground. Plenty of time, however, was
afforded for the performance of the requisite ceremonial, to satisfy
every Mahomedan in camp; for, although, ostensibly, I only provided
entertainment for the Hy Soumaulee, every Tajourah man in the Kafilah,
considered himself entitled to some portion, of whatever animal was
slaughtered.

I was, as usual, strongly recommended whilst staying at Murroo to take a
wife, like Ohmed Mahomed, Ebin Izaak, and in fact, all the rest of my
companions; who, as is usual, had taken to themselves, temporary
helpmates. One of the girls, who presented herself to me as a candidate,
was stated by her friends to be a very strong woman, and had had as many
as four or five husbands. I thought this a rather strange
recommendation, but it was evidently mentioned that she might find
favour in my eyes. I dismissed her very unceremoniously as if I did not
altogether understand the proposal, but at the same time, gave her as
proofs of my regard for her people, and of my strong platonic attachment
to herself, a few red beads, and a little paper, that she had asked for
in the first instance as her dower.

It requires some little address to keep clear of these unscrupulous
ladies, and I frequently had cause to fear that my constant rejection of
their addresses would be construed into an affront to the tribes to
which they belonged. An Arab friend of mine I met at Mozambique, named
Said Hamza, told me of an adventure of his in the country of the
Muzeguahs, some five or six weeks’ journey up the large river that
empties itself into the Indian Ocean at Lamoo. He had been fined by the
chief for forming some matrimonial connexion without his authority, so
he determined to have nothing more to do with their women. A girl coming
into his hut, he accordingly walked out, and this caused a much greater
quarrel than before, for the whole tribe asserted, he had treated them
with contempt by his haughty conduct towards the girl, and demanded to
know if she were not good enough for him. Said Hamza in the end was
again mulcted of a lot of brass wire and blue sood, before he could
allay the national indignation, which his extreme caution had thus
excited.

Such delicate dilemmas are best avoided, as I have before remarked, by
engaging the first old woman that makes her appearance. To her must be
referred all new comers of her sex, and she will generally manage to
send them away without compromising the traveller at all.

As a light nutriment during my journey, I had been recommended in Aden
to take with me some soojee, the fine oatmeal-like flour of ground rice.
This I had reserved for food, on occasions of sickness during the
journey, but considering that I had quite recovered, and being tired of
boiled wheat, I now resolved to make use of it, as long as it would
last. There being abundance of milk in this place, I made several messes
with it, which were pronounced by all hands to be excellent. All the Hy
Soumaulee had tasted it, and knew that the white milky-looking contents
of the wooden bowl which was sometimes placed to cool on one side of my
hut, was a nice enough pudding. A member of the Sidee Ahbreu tribe,
however, not being sufficiently aware of the character of my food, came
one afternoon, and seeing, as he supposed, such a capital opportunity of
greasing his hair, with what he took to be prepared sheeps’-tails fat,
squatted down by the side of the bowl; and before I could prevent him
had filled his hair with the greater part of its contents, having taken
two large handfuls from the bowl, and well rubbed it into his long dirty
matted locks. No one could help laughing at the mistake, and even Zaido,
who had to make a second bowl-full, grinned a revengeful smile, as he
saw the disappointed Bedouin, anxiously trying to wipe away with his
tobe all traces of a composition, which he was led to believe by his
joking companions, would have the effect of reddening the colour of the
hair, like the quick-lime dressing, which changes to that hue the hair
of the Soumaulee exquisite.

The third evening of our stay, Ohmed Medina and his two companions
returned. He had succeeded in purchasing the ivory, but had left it at
Dowaleeka until his return. Himyah, who was standing by, asked me if I
knew what ivory was, or had ever seen an elephant. It so happened that I
did not know the meaning of the word “feel,” which is the Arabic term
for elephant, and as I hesitated in replying, Ebin Izaak, supposing I
had never seen or heard of one, pointing to a large mimosa-tree,
informed me, it was a _cow_ as high as that; whilst another, with the
butt-end of his spear, drew a circle on the ground, having a diameter of
about six feet, and swore positively that was the size of the animal’s
foot. Such is the information we generally get from natives; and whether
in natural history or geography, a traveller must exercise great
caution, in noting down accounts or descriptions which he receives. A
native said this, and a native said that, is the cause of all the
confusion that exists, upon many important questions connected with
central Africa. A little penetration will always determine the value of
the communication, by the character of the individual who gives it, for
mental ability and veracity, and if these can be depended upon, it is
worse than useless, to entertain other and conflicting reports, of known
fools and liars.

The evening that Ohmed Medina returned, a large calahm was held. After a
long discussion, it was determined we should proceed the next day,
whether the expected Hy Soumaulee Kafilah came or not; and although an
opposition calahm was held at the same time by the escort, who naturally
favoured their friends, I could see that it was finally resolved not to
wait for them any longer, but to start in the morning.

The last night was spent in the usual happy manner; a bright moon lent
its assistance to illumine the little forest glades, where merry
dancers, in numerous small and quick revolving circles, kept up a
continued chorus, with the usual accompaniment of sharp clapping hands.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                            CHAPTER XXVIII.


Journey from Murroo to Sakeitaban, general direction, W.S.W., time
  marching, one hour.—Visit to Durtee Ohmed.—Halt for short time at
  Sakeitaban.—Proceed to Mullu, general direction, W.S.W., time
  marching, four hours.—Bad road.—Threats of assassination.—Shields of
  the Dankalli, and care of their arms.—Arrive at Mullu.—Write letter to
  Ankobar.


_May 17th._—We left Murroo a little before sunrise. I was about to
start, when Ohmed Mahomed came up, and introduced a one-eyed stranger,
with the rather surprising information that he was the Durtee Ohmed, for
whom I had a few days before been making inquiry. On looking about, I
could not see Ebin Izaak to ask for an explanation, but as I conceived
that Ohmed Mahomed knew of my having before given three dollars to a man
who was said to be Durtee Ohmed, I said I should not repeat the present.
My respectable Ras ul Kafilah denied any knowledge of the circumstance,
and appeared quite indignant at the deceit practised upon me by Ebin
Izaak. The one eye of the present applicant was repeatedly pointed to as
evidence of identity, and at length I was induced to give the man two
dollars as a present from Lieut. Barker.

I had been detained a little in the rear by this business, so mounted my
mule to gallop up to Ohmed Medina, who was now some way ahead. I
dismounted when I reached the party he was with, but no Ebin Izaak being
there to expostulate with for his deceit, I relieved my feelings by
complaining of his conduct to Ohmed Medina. He laughed, but whether at
my simplicity, or the pettifogging pilfering of my companions, I cannot
say, but pointing to the kraal, the huts of which now became visible, he
said he would shew me the real Durtee Ohmed, who was, and had been, sick
for many days. He stipulated that I should not upbraid Ohmed Mahomed, or
speak at all about the two dollars I had given to the man on his
representations, and undertook that these should be carried to account
for the purchase of food for the Hy Soumaulee. I readily agreed to this,
as I now felt curious to see the _finale_ of all this humbug. I learned
that Ohmed Medina’s chief reason for taking me to visit Durtee Ohmed was
to exculpate his young friend, Ebin Izaak, from having any interested
motive in the trick he had played me.

The road went close to the kraal, but we had to turn off a few yards, to
the farther hut of the whole, before I was introduced into the presence
of the sick chief; who, on seeing me, extended his hand, and soon
convinced me of his being the real Simon Pure, not only by his one eye,
but also by his inquiries, and the interest he manifested in Lieut.
Barker. The man to whom I had given the first three dollars followed us
into the hut, and I then found that he was the son of the old chief.

It had not been deemed politic to introduce me to the latter by reason
of the trip to the kraal, which would have been necessary, and was
considered unsafe. It had, therefore, been arranged that any present I
had to give should be received by the son, who was to personify his
father, and as the motive seemed to have been purely out of
consideration for me, I easily excused the hoax. Ebin Izaak thinking, as
I had been cheated so often, that unless I saw the individual himself I
should withhold the present, had concealed the truth, and with a few
bold assertions, had removed, in a great measure, my doubts naturally
excited by seeing Durtee Ohmed possessing two eyes instead of one, as I
had expected.

It was just milking time when we arrived at the kraal. Girls standing up
to their knees in sheep and goats, caught each the one she intended to
operate upon, and placing a hind leg between her knees, so held the
animal fast. In their left hands they held baskets of the usual
closely-woven mid rib of the palm-leaf, which they soon filled with rich
and frothy milk.

Ohmed Medina and I were pressed to drink; and the old man turning over
on the mat upon which he lay, reached from behind him a very nicely made
fedeenah, which he pressed upon my acceptance. His civility, and the
remembrance of what was due to him for his attention to Lieut. Barker,
induced me to add to my previous present two more dollars, making
altogether five, the number I had originally intended to give him, but
which I had kept back in the first instance from his son, because of
certain misgivings as to his identity, that even Ebin Izaak’s
protestations had failed to remove entirely.

Before Ohmed Medina and I came up again with the Kafilah, we found it
already halted at a place called Sakeitaban, not much unlike the scene
of our previous halt, and but little more than three miles distant from
it. The camels were not unloaded, but appeared to be awaiting the
decision of a calahm that was going on under a large tree, both the
Tajourah people and the Hy Soumaulee taking part in the debate. Ohmed
Medina joined them immediately, whilst I sat down until a signal from
him intimated that our stay was determined upon. The assembly broke up,
several of the parties going to their camels, and commencing to unload
them. I now heard that the escort had insisted upon the Kafilah waiting
for the one, belonging to their people, we had been expecting for the
last four days, and from which fresh messengers had arrived who affirmed
that it would be up in a few hours, which, much to my surprise, was
really the case.

Ebin Izaak came to my hut very soon after the bustle of unloading had
subsided, and as he seemed inclined to remain, I made Zaido enlarge it
for our better accommodation. He was anxious to explain how he came to
practise upon me the little imposition he had employed as regarded
Durtee Ohmed. To occupy himself whilst he remained, he brought with him
part of the branch of a myrrh-tree and a small kind of axe, that
reminded me of one somewhat of the same kind I have seen represented
upon old Egyptian monuments. It consisted of an iron head, the cutting
edge of which was about one inch and a-half in extent, whilst the body
of it was a socket three or four inches long, which received into it the
pointed extremity of the short arm of a trimmed branch, which joined at
a very acute angle the longer, or handle proper, about a foot and a-half
long, the shorter portion inserted into the axe head not being more than
six inches.[5]

Footnote 5:

  Several ancient British celts have been compared with the head of one
  of these axes I brought home with me, and are in size and shape
  exactly similar.

With this primitive tool he soon chopped out of the wood a pretty
correct form of a spoon which gradually assumed, under the repeated
light blows of the axe, a very elegant shape. I was so much pleased with
this production of savage genius, that I gave him a small hollow-gouging
chisel he had long coveted, to scoop out and finish the bowl. My
pocket-knife was also in requisition, to enable him to ornament the
handle with an intricate wavy pattern, and by mid-day he produced an
article that for elegance might have vied with the most finished of the
carved wagers, sung for in the pastorals of some of our classical poets.

Our conversation and occupation were suddenly interrupted by the arrival
of the Hy Soumaulee Kafilah, a numerous body, consisting of several
hundred camels, the original party having been joined by a large number
from Owssa. Fortunately the new arrivals were anxious to proceed, and as
this feeling was participated in by us, a short calahm was followed by
our camels being driven into camp and loaded, whilst the Hy Soumaulee
proceeded on their march. My mule innocently enough came within arms’
length of me, and I secured a ride to-day; for, with an amusing
sagacity, when wanted in a morning at the general hour of starting, she
frequently contrived to have made herself scarce, and thus obliged me to
walk when I would much rather have ridden.

As the numerous Kafilahs now formed a little army, we moved across the
country, not in a single file, but with an extended front. No attack in
our present condition therefore, was anticipated, so my escort, with
Ohmed Medina and myself, preceded in a body. The road continued for
nearly two hours through a park-like country, high mimosa and other
trees standing in clumps of three or four together, at considerable
distances from each other.

The moomen, or toothbrush-tree,[6] abounded at Sakeitaban. Several of
the Hy Soumaulee brought me a handful of the berries to eat, but I was
soon obliged to call out “Hold, enough!” so warmly aromatic was their
flavour. This singular fruit grows in drooping clusters of
flesh-coloured mucilaginous berries, the size of our common red
currants, each containing a single round seed, about as large as a
peppercorn. The taste at first is sweet, and not unpleasant, and by
some, I think, would be considered very agreeable indeed. After some
little time, if many are eaten, the warmth in the palate increases
considerably, and reminded me of the effect of pepper, or of very hot
cress. As we approached the river Hawash, I found these trees growing
more abundantly.

Footnote 6:

  Salvadora Persica. The “Peeloo” of India, identified by Dr. Royle with
  the mustard-tree of Scripture.

The moomen forms a dense bush, some yards in circuit, and as their
thick, velvety, round leaves, of a bright green colour, afford an
excellent shade, they form the favourite lairs, both of savage men, and
of wild beasts. Reposing upon the ground, near the roots, free from
underwood and thorns, whoever, or whatever lies there, is entirely
concealed from sight; and not unfrequently a leopard or hyæna skulks out
of, or a startled antelope bounds from, the very bush that the tired
Bedouin has selected for his own retreat from the sun.

Birds, of every hue, made this Adal forest their home, and displayed all
that enjoyment of life, which appears to be the one general feeling that
animates these happy denizens of air. Their shrill piping songs, their
joyous freedom, and quick sportive movements, as chasing each other, or
challenging to the flight, they dart from tree to tree, excite
corresponding feelings of buoyancy and happiness in the delighted
traveller, glad to have escaped from the stony deserts, or the burning
plains of the arid country he has previously passed through.

In two hours we arrived at a more open country, its surface gently
undulating, with a gradual slope towards the west. Here, it was not so
densely wooded; the trees appeared younger, and the idea occurred to me,
that a flood might have rushed over and devastated this district, some
few years before, and this natural plantation had sprung up subsequent
to that event. I could not obtain any information corroborative of this
as a fact, but the uniform height of the trees, their young appearance,
and the contiguity to an overflowing river, the Hawash, afforded me some
reasons for supposing this part of the country to have been so acted
upon.

A curious kind of medicine, I observed carefully picked up by my
Dankalli companions. This was the hard clay-like fæces of the manus, or
pangolin, said to have cathartic effects. This mailed ant-eater
excavates, with its strong fore claws, a passage through the thick mud
walls of the ant-hills, and the numerous army of soldier and of
labouring ants, that are hereupon summoned to the rescue, fall an easy
prey to the slimy-tongued invader. The pangolin materially assists the
porcupine in obtaining his food, for after the destruction of the little
animals by the former, he takes advantage of the excavated passage, and
possesses himself of the hoards of grain and other seeds, collected by
these industrious insects. This, at least, appears to me the most
reasonable mode of accounting for the presence of the porcupine, so
frequently found in the neighbourhood of a burrowed, and, consequently,
a ruined ant-hill.

During our march, Adam Burrah gave information to Ohmed Medina, that one
of my escort, Esau Ibrahim, had threatened to take my life, in revenge
for Ohmed Mahomed having denied some tobacco he wanted. I never liked
this Esau; he always showed such unnecessary obsequiousness, that I had
long suspected, he intended something more than he wished me to have any
idea of. I was, therefore, not surprised when Ohmed Medina told me to
take care of him; but I had nearly managed it very badly by suggesting,
in reply, that he should be got rid of somehow or another. It was
fortunate, both for himself and me, that I added almost immediately, I
had thought of a plan, which was to send him with a letter to Shoa to
announce my arrival, to do which I had been requested the two previous
days by Ohmed Mahomed, and I now thought that two dollars could not be
better expended, than by sending Esau out of the way on that errand. The
same money would have induced Adam Burrah to have cut the throat of this
rascal, and if I had only nodded my head, when this mode of relieving my
care was proposed, it would have been done the same night. I preferred
disappointing Adam Burrah, to whom, however, I was obliged to promise an
additional present on our arrival in Shoa, to prevent such a sanguinary
proof of his regard being done gratis.

Several times our road was crossed by swamps of small extent, that lay
on each side of narrow and shallow ditches. It was most unpleasant
walking for me, as my boots were quite worn out, and had large, gaping
splits in the upper leather, which admitted the mud very freely. I would
not ride, because my mule could scarcely drag herself through the soft,
sticky clay. The broad foot of the camel was better suited for such
situations, although these animals could not get on very well, and were
continually slipping. On such occasions, one of their long legs, or
sometimes both, slide outside with such a painfully prolonged sweep,
that it is a most astonishing thing that dislocation does not sometimes
take place.

I trudged along, in a very cross humour, my bare-legged companions
laughing all the while, and sometimes lending me a hand, when I got
stuck altogether in the mud. I, at length, began to be amused myself, as
I thought of the will-o’-the-wisp that was leading me through such
scenes; and from a personal review of myself, I took on getting over the
last of these difficult portions of the road, I felt quite sure my own
mother would have found it difficult to recognise her son in the
bog-trotting, moss-trooping Bedouin that was now trying by a series of
bending and extending movements of the feet, to squeeze out of the
splits in the leather, as much as possible of the mud contained in his
boots.

Having got quite clear of the marshy district, we entered upon a fine
grassy plain, where we perceived two buffaloes, but at too great a
distance for us to think of pursuing them. I learnt, on this occasion,
that of the hide of these animals, the Dankalli manufacture their
shields. These are well made, and formed of a circular slab of the still
moist skin, about twenty inches in diameter, moulded into the required
concave form, by being dried upon a corresponding convexity of
heaped-up, hard clay. The rim is, at the same time, curled outwards and
upwards by being well pecked as with a mattock, all around by a wooden
instrument, exactly identical with the so-called wooden hoe, contained
in the Egyptian room in the British Museum, and corresponding in form
with the handle of the Dankalli axe I have before described. The shield
is held in one hand by a strong and hard ring of twisted hide that, like
a bar of metal, crosses over the centre, its size being such as to admit
of the shield being slung sometimes upon the arm, like a basket. The
centre of the front is ornamented by a small boss, from which depends a
long tuft of horsehair, sometimes white, tinged with henna, sometimes
black. This tuft is the characteristic symbol of a brave, as it is only
assumed after the bearer has slain a man. On the inside of the shield,
corresponding to the raised boss, is a depression, about one inch deep,
and an inch and a-half in diameter, where generally is placed any little
portable valuable, that can be stowed away in it. Gum myrrh, not
unfrequently, occupies this place, and sometimes “eltit,” or assafœtida,
or some other valued medicine. Assafœtida is not indigenous to Adal; the
Dankalli obtain it in small quantities from Arabia.

One trait in the character of these people, is the great attention they
pay to the condition of their arms. Brightening or sharpening them is
their favourite amusement, and no fiercer scowls are excited than by the
accidental disturbance of the carefully-deposited shield or spear. No
traveller in Adal can help observing this; and in the description of a
war-dance of these people, in a recent work upon Ethiopia, its imaginary
character is betrayed by the alleged beating of the shields; which,
however characteristic it may be of the peaceable Abyssinian, when he
endeavours to represent the turmoil of strife, is quite out of place
when speaking of Dankalli customs and manners.

We halted in a very open spot, amidst high grass, no trees being in
sight, except toward the north and west, where a low mimosa forest
extended as far as the bases of the hills of Hyhilloo and Abhidah. In
the south-west the table mountain of Afrabah, cut off as it seemed from
the ridge of Goror and of Oburah, on which is situated the celebrated
city of Hurrah, at the distance of about sixty miles. Our halting-place
was called Mullu, and the whole plain, north and south, bore the same
general designation.

After getting into my hut, my first business was to send for Ohmed
Mahomed, to consult respecting the letter that was to be forwarded to
Shoa. Esau Ibrahim was sent for, and willingly undertook, for two
dollars, to be the bearer. The letter was written and ready for him long
before evening, but as the tribes now between us and the Hawash were
hostile to Kafilahs or their messengers proceeding through their
country, he was obliged to defer his departure until night. As he
asserted that he should be able to deliver the letter in three days, I
began to entertain some hopes of getting through the country; and before
he started, by the interpreting assistance of my servant Allee, I
charged him with an abundance of verbal messages to the officers of the
British Mission in Ankobar, to induce them to come and meet me, which,
in my ignorance of Shoan policy, I thought they might do, even so far as
the banks of the Hawash. A most affectionate and sincere leave-taking
passed between Esau Ibrahim and myself, and very soon after he had taken
his departure, I went to sleep in peace.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                             CHAPTER XXIX.


Journey from Mullu to Annee, general direction, W.S.W., time marching,
  six hours.—Proceed over Plain of Mullu.—Halt in sight of
  Berdudda.—Muditu kraal and funeral.—Hare hunt.—Arrive at
  Annee.—Muditu visitors.—Moonlight scene.—_May 19th_, Staying at
  Berdudda.—Visit to camp of Hittoo Galla women.—Attack of formidable
  caterpillar.—Situation of halting-place at Annee.


_May 17th._—We started before sunrise, still keeping in the van of the
immense Kafilah, that, by a passive kind of physical force movement, was
forcing a passage through an enemy’s country. We soon left the grassy
plain of Mullu, and entered upon an undulating country, dotted with
dwarf mimosas. Numerous antelopes, their fore feet resting upon the
lower branches, were feeding upon the green leaves and clustered curling
seed-pods; whilst the surface of the ground was black with numerous
flocks of guinea-fowl, that tempted me frequently to turn some yards
from the road, and add a few of these finely-flavoured birds to our
other provisions.

We halted for a short time in sight of a large kraal, until the several
Kafilahs whom we had preceded had come up, and after allowing them to
pass us, we recommenced our march in the rear. This was owing to the bad
character of the inhabitants of the village, who belonged to the
Assa-hemerah Muditu, and as a good many of my companions kept calling my
attention to them by repeating their name, and adding, with the usual
oath, “Whalla (by God), they are bad men!” we may safely conclude they
were no better than the other Dankalli tribes.

We very soon came upon a party of the tribe, who were employed in
burying a dead man. The grave was about one hundred yards from our road,
but the two men who appeared to have been making it by their soiled
skins, approached us in a very respectful manner, and told us how they
were engaged. The Kafilah people, as they came up, generally went a
short distance in the direction pointed out, and, with faces turned
towards Mecca, appeared to offer up a prayer. Ohmed Medina, to whom, a
few mornings previously, I had been talking upon the subject of burying
the dead among the Dankalli, took hold of my mule’s bridle, and led me
to the grave, which was being filled up by four or five other men. Ohmed
Medina muttered a prayer, and I also added a short one for the repose of
the soul of the deceased.

It was the usual mode of burial practised among the Mahomedans, except
that the grave was nearly circular. The diameter was so short, that I
asked if the body were buried sitting, and was told that it was not, but
that a low excavation on one side, at the bottom, received it in a kind
of tomb. Near this were other graves, all marked by a little conical
heap of loose stones five or six feet high, the top being finished off
by two small upright stones placed about a foot apart. Some of these
little pyramids, in other situations, I have seen exceeding ten or
fifteen feet in height; and one, a prominent landmark for several days’
journey, situated upon the eastern extremity of the ridge of San-karl,
to the south of the valley of Gobard, must be at least one hundred feet
high.

As we passed in front of the village, which consisted of not less than
fifty huts, a numerous assembly of the Muditu came out, the chiefs of
whom saluted us in gloomy silence with a passing slide of the hand. As I
rode on my mule, I kept giving my hand, letting it slip gently off
theirs, and keeping a sharp look-out that they did not take the
opportunity of pulling me off the mule, which many of them seemed
inclined to do. Never did I see such a suppressed feeling of animosity
so apparent in the scowling look and silent salute of both parties;
whilst sundry nods and winks of the eye exchanged by many of my escort,
and by nearly all the Tajourah people, told their quiet enjoyment of the
great disappointment of these fellows, in not having a chance of
obtaining even a present for their chief from us; a fact made very
evident by the saucy look of confidence assumed by our Ras, Ohmed
Mahomed, secure in the number of supporters whom he mustered around him.

The country we marched through to-day was called Berdudda. Towards the
end of the journey, we passed an elevated plateau of no great height or
extent, apparently of an upheaved alluvial stratum similar to that
beneath our feet, but altered in its geological character by the action
of heat. Birds of every hue abounded, brightly reflecting the sun’s rays
from their bronzed or golden plumage; whilst the most beautifully
painted butterflies added their kaleidoscopic colouring to the more
immediate vicinity of our path.

Hares also were so numerous that they seemed to spring out of every bush
and tuft of grass we came near. The Dankalli profess not to eat them,
but this is a prejudice, I think, that has been introduced with the
Mahomedan religion, the laws of which, respecting clean and unclean
meats, are the same with those of Moses. That they kill hares, and take
some little trouble to do so by running them down, I had frequent
proofs. One to-day was put up, unfortunately, in such a situation, that
in whatever way she ran, she was headed by some party or other of the
Kafilah men. Though so insignificant an animal, the excitement of the
chase she occasioned spread along the whole line of march, and men and
boys, I, as well as the rest, were soon in hot pursuit of puss. She gave
some excellent sport of the kind, doubling under the feet of one man,
starting up suddenly behind another who had overrun her, and now leaping
right into the face of a third, upsetting him by the suddenness of the
shock, among his laughing companions. Her moments were, however,
numbered, an unlucky stone thrown by a boy, struck her upon the head,
and extended her upon the ground, where she lay for some minutes,
throwing out her legs convulsively in vain struggles to escape from us
and death. Having two fine guinea-fowls suspended from my saddle, I had
so much consciousness of what was due to humanity as to feel some sorrow
for this unnecessary destruction of life; for, after all our exertions
to kill it, unless I made my supper of the hare, we should have been
obliged to have left it to become the prey of some prowling beast or
bird. Accordingly, I determined to bury my conscience in my stomach,
bestowed the guinea-fowls upon my companions, and picking up the hare,
inserted my knife between the back tendons of one hind leg, pushed the
other through the orifice, and by the loop thus formed, suspended it
from the bow of my saddle in regular sportsman-like manner.

We proceeded about six miles farther towards the south-west, and arrived
at a place called Annee, an open gravelly spot, with high mimosa-trees
standing at some distance from each other. Just beyond us was a pool of
dirty water, not made any cleaner by a number of camels getting into and
rolling themselves over in it.

Soon after we were settled for the day, and I was putting off as long as
possible, the unpleasant necessity of drinking a large draught of the
yellow solution contained in my little kid-skin bag, some Assa-hemerah
women came in with loads of “nature’s” particularly delicious
“beverage,” milk. “Oh! what lovely damsels! only a handful of tobacco
for all that!” and how they patted their fingers against their thin lips
in mute astonishment, as I transferred their burdens into a skin of my
own, which, by the accidents and incidents of my journey, had become not
much fairer than their own. Two strap-buttons (nearly all those from the
top of my trousers had gone long previously) purchased me also half a
leopard’s skin that had been brought into camp for sale, and a
head-cover of blue sood was given for a fine goat, which I intended to
take on with me to Shoa.

None of the male inhabitants of the neighbouring extensive kraal
ventured to come into camp, but a large circle of forty or fifty were
sitting in council not far from us; and between them and the stores, the
Tajourah people and the Hy Soumaulee also held a calahm in one large
body. From the country being more open here than at Murroo, I could see
more of our consort Kafilahs, that, in groups at some distance from each
other, were dotted all over the plain.

The day passed very quietly, and some ostriches coming in sight, it was
even proposed that I should go out with a party to shoot one. Ohmed
Medina and the greater part of my escort, were as anxious as possible
for me to do so, but the more cautious of the Tajourah people, with
Ohmed Mahomed at the head, objected, from the chances of our coming into
collision with the Assa-hemerah: a very general feeling among the Hy
Soumaulee and the Owssa Muditu Kafilahs with us being, to take this
opportunity of retaliating some recent outrage upon a Kafilah of their
friends that attempted to proceed to Shoa, but had been obliged to
return by this very tribe. Much to the gratification of Carmel Ibrahim,
I gave him the half leopard’s skin I had purchased here, as a return for
his attention to me on several little hunting excursions, for next to
Ohmed Medina, he possessed more of my confidence than any of the rest of
the Kafilah.

In the cool of the evening, when the Assa-hemerah council had broken up,
and our men were preparing for rest, I sat some time upon the boxes
forming my hut, and beneath a beautifully bright moon, indulged in
reveries that grew out of my strange situation. These musings, which I
always recollect as the most unalloyed of all the enjoyments of my
desert life, were a sufficient equivalent of themselves, for all the
hardships and exposure consequent upon such wanderings. New ideas, fresh
feelings, and novel truths pressed themselves forward with scarcely an
exertion of thought, surrounded as I was by fields of unexplored nature,
new to me in her vegetation, in her animal kingdom, and in the character
of her principal phenomena. Of these I had certainly read, but I now
looked upon reality, and saw that abundance of facts in previous
descriptions had been overlooked, and still remain to requite a patient
pursuer of truth, more competent to observe and reflect, than a mere
beginner, like myself, in the study of natural history.

I certainly am affected by the still quiet of a moonlight night, and
very readily believe, that if it can produce the moody calms and
melancholy enjoyment it does on my particular disposition, that on some
others it may have more exaggerated effects, and “moon-stricken lunacy”
may not, perhaps, be improperly attributed to such an influence.
However, I am not now sitting on the top of some piled up boxes, pistols
around my waist, and a dagger ready to my hand, nor am I surrounded by
the mummy-like forms of sleeping savages wrapt closely up in their
tobes, whilst champing ruminating camels, with large goggle eyes, and
goose looks, appear almost as contemplative as myself. I am not now the
half-Bedouin, half-moss-trooper of the time I spent in Adal, and
incidents will be more interesting to my reader, than any account of the
dreamy castles that reared their airy turrets to amuse me in my
solitude.

To aid reminiscences of other days, not from any want of thought, I
began to whistle a favourite air, but being overheard by Moosa, he sat
upon his mat, and tried, by calling out, “Ahkeem,” two or three times,
to intimate that it was not exactly proper; but as I still continued,
Zaido also awakened, and supposing I did not understand Moosa, put his
hand up from where he lay by the side of the hut, and shook me by the
foot, saying, “Ahkeem, that is very bad; all the Jinn in this country
will seize the camels, if you whistle in that manner.” As he was
evidently in earnest, and as I was getting tired, I slipped down from
off the boxes, crept into my hut, and was very soon as quiet as they
could wish me.

_May 19th._—I was awakened some time before sunrise, by the usual loud
summons of Ohmed Mahomed, for the Kafilah “to up and saddle,” but which,
from the pitch and prolonged tone, I knew was intended to mean just the
contrary. The very last thing, in fact, that Allee told me the night
before was, that we should not start to-day, and wanted me to bet to the
contrary half a dozen small gilt buttons, against a milk basket hung
round with shells I had taken a fancy to. The truth was, that the
country so abounded with vegetation, not having been exposed for some
months to any grazing exhaustion by passing Kafilahs, that one and all
composing our army decided upon remaining here to-day, whether the tribe
we were among would like it or not; especially as the next three marches
would be long and forced ones across the country of the Hittoo Gallas, a
people much more numerous and fierce than the Assa-hemerah. Ohmed
Mahomed’s signal cry was raised to deceive the people of Annee, up to
the very last moment, with the idea that we were going to leave this
morning, to prevent them collecting their friends, which they would have
gone about very early, had they had any idea we should have remained a
day longer with them.

During the day some unlocked for visitors came into camp, being three
old women belonging to the Hittoo Galla. They accompanied a Kafilah of
seven or eight donkeys, laden with tobacco and well made hempen ropes,
which they offered for sale among our people. They received in exchange
some white cotton cloth, and a little brass wire. They were very old and
excessively ugly. These women did not wear the blue covering for the
head common to the grown up Dankalli and Soumaulee females. The hair,
however, was dressed in the same manner, hanging around the sides and
back of the head like a small curtain, from the numerous little plaited
locks being connected by bands of interwoven cotton thread. I need not
mention that grease had been used with no sparing hand at their toilet.
They wore the same kind of soft leather petticoat, as the Adal ladies;
and their feet were protected by the simple sandal formed of one piece
of dried ox-skin, secured to the sole of the foot by a loop into which
one toe is inserted, and by a tie or thong of leather passed in front
and around the ancles to the side lappels. Whilst bartering their goods
they occupied themselves also in twisting a bundle of hemp, fastened to
the front of their girdle, into an excellent rope, which, as it was
made, was secured behind them upon their loins.

From the hemp and tobacco brought in this manner to our camp, I
concluded that agriculture was carried on to a considerable extent by
the Gallas occupying the fertile plains on each side of the southern
portion of the river Hawash. This struck me at first as being a
characteristic distinction between them and the Dankalli, whom I had
been accustomed to associate only with the care of flocks and herds; but
when I remembered the highly cultivated condition of Owssa, proved by
the great quantities of dates and jowharee grain brought into Tajourah,
either for home use or for exportation, I felt satisfied, that the
physical character of the surface of different parts of the country of
Adal had produced those differences in the mode of life observed in the
herdsman Dankalli, in the agricultural Muditu and Galla, or in the
seafaring Soumaulee, all of whom belong to one family of man.

After remaining about an hour with us the women turned back in the
direction towards their own homes, which I did not at the time notice,
except that I thought they missed a good market by not visiting the
Kafilahs which were in our rear.

That which astonished me as much as anything during my journey, and
which I have omitted to mention before, was the great numbers of
Bedouins who had never, resided in towns, and who yet were able to read
and write Arabic. Several have inscribed their names in my note books.
This I considered a curious fact in mankind lore, to find savages so
situated as the Dankalli, such adepts in an art so foreign to their
pursuits or wants.

Connected with this knowledge of writing, I observed a circumstance that
may afford some solution of the cause, for the different directions in
which various nations are accustomed to write. The Dankalli, for
instance, inscribe the letters from above downwards, which I attribute,
in a great measure, to their resorting generally for practice to the
skin of the left fore arm, which, projecting before them, the elbow
resting upon the stomach, serves as a tablet, upon which a stunted
mimosa thorn acts as a style. The letters are rendered visible by the
pale coloured scarf, the erased transparent epidermis, which marks the
course of the thorn upon the black skin. When the hand and arm are
brought down in a direction across the chest, for the purpose of
examining the writing, it is evident that, to commence with the first
letter, the inscription must be read from the right side, and in this
manner, or some analogous one, making use of, for example, a long narrow
leaf, I endeavour to account for the different directions of writing,
either from the right hand to the left, or _vice versa_, which is
customary among various nations.

Whilst sitting under a tree to-day, a caterpillar fell upon my bare
neck, and feeling a disagreeable kind of tickling, I put my hand upon it
and threw it away. It was a common enough looking butterfly caterpillar,
but it had most annoyingly disagreeable effects, which lasted for an
hour afterwards, being exactly like the irritation that would be
produced by a little of the fine hair of the pods of the _Dolichos
pruriens_ being rubbed over the part. I could not conceive it possible
to be the result of an insect simply crawling upon my neck, so I looked
about to see if there were not some vegetable production in my
neighbourhood that would account for it. Seeing my attentive examination
of the spot, and suspecting the object of my search, by the restless
movements of my neck in the loose collar of my frock, Ohmed Medina,
laughing, pointed out to me several other little animals suspended at
the extremities of long silken filaments from the extreme branches over
my head, and I then recollected the circumstance of having previously
removed one of these caterpillars from my neck.

We were not troubled much by visits from the neighbouring Assa-hemerah,
who seemed to think that the less intercourse they had with us the
better. Three or four women brought their children to me for medicine,
which I gave them, and some old people, blind with age, kneeling, shewed
their sightless orbs, and went away disappointed at my inability to
restore to them the light of day.

A little after sunset, at the request of the Ras ul Kafilah, Ohmed
Mahomed, I fired my guns, as a warning voice for the especial
instruction of any foes to Kafilahs that might be lurking around us.

Immediately to the south of our encamping ground, was a broad shallow
valley, covered with low trees, and called Aleekduggee Kabeer, and which
turned to the east and north in a direction towards Hiero Murroo. The
stream that sometimes runs along it, flows into the temporary lake of
Iruloff, which itself, on occasions of great rains, communicates with
the river of Killaloo. In front of us, to the west, was a slightly
elevated crest, over which was the valley of Aleekduggee Sageer, flowing
towards the north into the Hawash.


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                              CHAPTER XXX.


Journey from Annee to How, general direction W.S.W., time marching six
  hours.—Aleekduggee Sageer.—Immense Kafilah.—Water-cure for
  determination of blood to the head.—Attack of the Galla.—Display of
  forces.—Ras ul Kafilah balances profit and loss so far.


_May 19th._—Being the first Kafilah but one in the line of march, we
were saddled and away two hours before sunrise. We ascended the gently
rising slope before us, arriving at the summit as the sun came upon the
horizon. A sudden but gradual descent of a few feet led us into the
extensive but shallow valley plain of Aleekduggee Sageer; which, in the
account given of this country by the officers of the British mission in
1840, contained in the twelfth volume of the Royal Geographical
Society’s Journal, is supposed to have been the former bed of a large
river; but which most certainly, is nothing more than a broadly denuded
valley, some four or five miles in extent, running for a few miles
nearly parallel with the river Hawash, into which the little stream that
has formed the valley enters, between the hills of Baardu and Hyhilloo;
the latter being situated to the east of its junction with that river.
Sometimes this valley is one extensive marsh, impassable to Kafilahs,
and the delay it occasions on either bank frequently favours the attacks
of the Hittoo Galla, and on this account is a locality very much dreaded
by the traders and slave-merchants.

The sloping ascent and ridge we passed over during the earlier part of
the march, was called Gudmuddee. We crossed the valley in two more
hours, and as I had walked the whole way, I lay down to rest myself in
the thin cool shade of a dwarf mimosa-tree, and immediately went to
sleep. The sun had ascended high in its course to the meridian before I
awoke, and I found Ebin Izaak and four or five of the Hy Soumaulee lying
upon their stomachs upon the ground, watching the still coming line of
camels, which in one long single file extended to the very top of
Gudmuddee. Others were still coming into sight at that distant point, as
those at our extremity of the line, kept yielding up their loads of
salt, bags, and boxes, which were fast accumulating in detached heaps
along the narrow ridge of How, that formed the western bank of
Aleekduggee Sageer, and where we were to halt for the night.

There were now gathered together, at least, three thousand camels, and
upwards of seven hundred men. The women also, especially those that
accompanied the Wahama Kafilahs, were very numerous. The Tajourah people
said they had never seen so large a collection of camels before; and
many a wish was expressed by my Hy Soumaulee escort, that the Gallas
might come down with the intention of attacking us, and then they said,
the Ahkeem should see they were “Cottam,” like the English.

My sleepiness I found was not altogether the effect of fatigue, for I
had not long retreated to my hut before a giddiness and a sense of
sliding out of all consciousness, roused me with a kind of alarm, to the
thought that some sun stroke or apoplectic fit might be approaching. I
called out right lustily for Zaido, Allee, and water, as if there were a
fire in my hut, and on their arrival, bearing the distended black hair
skin bags upon their shoulders, they looked all in a hurry, as if to ask
where it was; I, however, turned back the collar of my frock, and
holding on by a spear, held my head down for them to give me the full
benefit of a shower bath. To do which effectually they mounted on the
top of the boxes, and with two Bedouin assistant surgeons to help them,
let fall a gradually descending stream upon my head, which quite
relieved me from all the unpleasant sensations that had occasioned my
resorting to the remedy.

During the day a heavy thunder storm broke along the height, and a
considerable fall of rain soon filled the cooking pots, which were
hastily put out on all sides to catch the fresh cool water. The squall
did not last long, but it completely deluged the camp, and it was well
we had crossed Aleekduggee Sageer before it came on, or the march would
have been much more laborious and painful to the heavily loaded camels,
if even it could have been performed at all.

Another name for How, I understood, was Billin, although I think this
latter name is given to the whole ridge, whilst the former properly
belongs only to our particular halting-place. Just before sunset, whilst
nearly all the men of our Kafilah, stript to their waist-cloths, were
engaged in the bustle and the dust of their boisterous game of ball; and
I was amusing myself with Zaido and the two Allees, trying our
respective strength in balancing and heaving away heavy slabs of pewter;
a sudden cry among the women, followed by a general rush of the players
to shields and spears, and a plunge by Zaido into my hut to be out of
the way, put an end to our sports. Some cause of alarm had arisen, but
what it was I could neither see nor learn, but I never shall forget the
tumultuous crowd, whooping, leaping, and yelling, that almost in a
moment I was in the centre of; whilst the shrill screaming of the women,
gathering upon and around some large ant-hills in our rear, pierced
through all the roar. I was unarmed, my pistols and knife being in my
hut, so almost as quickly as Zaido I turned to get at them, and seeing
him on his hands and knees creeping up to the farther end, I caught hold
of his waist-cloth to give him a lug out, and divested him in a moment
of all the clothes he had on. His quick, almost convulsive, twitch
round, as he cast an imploring look, until he saw who it was, made me
smile, and throwing his cloth over him again, I told him to come out
directly. He faltered out, “Tabanja, tabanja,” wishing me to suppose he
had gone into the hut only to get my pistols for me.

Allee the First was waiting to go with us to where the Kafilah men had
already formed a line, which was now extending fast to the right and to
the left by the additional men who kept running up from the other
Kafilahs on our rear and flanks, to take part in the expected fight.
Thinking I was a long time, Allee stooped to look into the hut, and
laughed outright at the trembling confusion of Zaido, who, however, was
quickened in his actions considerably by this, and reaching to me my
pistols, I soon buttoned on my belt, and was ready. We then started,
running as fast as we could towards the squatting warriors, Himyah with
his matchlock joining in the race. Immediately after taking a position
between Ohmed Medina and Moosa, where I had been beckoned to come by the
former, I missed one of my pistols from my waist, it having fallen out
during the exertion of running. Pointing out my loss, I jumped again to
my feet, and looking in the direction I had just come, saw Zaido
standing as if on guard over something, and calling for me. Allee
suspecting it was the missing pistol, immediately ran to the spot. When
he returned with the weapon, and had given it to me, he tapped his
breast with a deal of pride, and appealed to me if he were not a brave
soldier, and Zaido an old woman.

I now looked out for the enemy, but only saw four rapidly diminishing
figures upon horseback, crossing diagonally the valley of Aleekduggee
Sageer. I watched them until they had ascended the height of Gudmuddee,
among the trees of which they soon disappeared. From what I could learn,
these men, whose numbers, although I saw only four, were variously
stated to be from twenty to thirty, calculating upon the speed of their
horses, had crossed over the valley a few miles to the south, and had
then cautiously travelled along the ridge of Billin, until close upon a
Kafilah of Wahamas who formed, in military language, our extreme right,
and distant about half a mile from us. They were then discovered, the
alarm spread, all other occupations were suspended, and the men of the
numerous Kafilahs came trooping up in great haste to the scene of the
supposed attack. Finding themselves perceived, and hearing a
far-spreading war-cry, the horsemen immediately descended from the
narrow ridge; most of them retreating down the western slope into the
valley of the Hawash, the others to the east, crossed, as I have before
said, the dry bed of the Aleekduggee Sageer in our front, and made a
rapid return towards the point on the opposite bank, from whence it was
conjectured they had at first proceeded. At all events, this party gave
us a good view of their figures and appearance. All my companions agreed
they belonged to the Hittoo Galla, and were not of the Muditu in whose
country we had halted the night before, as I at first conjectured from
their retreat being made in that direction. This was not likely either,
when I came to reflect, for knowing our strength, the Muditu would not
have sent such a useless party to attack, and they needed no scouts to
inform them of our numbers, after we had just passed through their
country. It was evident, as was generally supposed by our Kafilah, that
these horsemen were out reconnoitring, and formed the van of a much
greater number of footmen concealed from our view by the rising slope of
Gudmuddee, upon which they had collected. Very probably the Galla women
who visited us at Annee, and whose sudden departure surprised us, had
returned to their people and given information of a large Kafilah being
on the road, but not having been aware of the still larger ones farther
in our rear, had carried home a most imperfect account of our strength.
To this was attributed the defeat of their views to-day, for the Galla
were no doubt quite unprepared to attack an army such as we were able to
bring into the field against them.

We sat out all expectations of any more enemies approaching, being
disturbed only once in the course of the hour so occupied, by forming a
junction of two separate bodies. The men of the more distant Kafilahs
having squatted down on a commanding eminence, nearly one hundred yards
upon our left, Ohmed Medina, who acted as commander, directed us to join
them. In this movement I was taken quite by surprise, a low murmur along
the line being suddenly followed by everybody springing to his feet, I,
of course, not being long in following their example. For the next few
moments I was nearly carried off my legs by the sideway movement of the
whole body. Shoulders were kept closely pressed together, and in this
manner I was wedged in between two or three of them, and was carried
along until, like a flock of crows, we all settled down again upon the
right of the party towards which we had moved. Whilst this was being
performed, a loud whirring noise was made by each individual, as if the
tongue were rolled rapidly in the mouth during a long expiration. What
its object was, or what it meant, I could never learn. It was, perhaps,
merely a common custom for purposes of excitement, serving, like the
long roll of a drum, to keep up a noise when silence is not calculated
to raise and elevate the spirits.

A long conversation followed the breaking up of this martial display.
Groups of individuals collected to discuss the probability of future
attacks; and it was long after the usual hour of rest ere quiet and deep
sleep came wholly over this so lately life-stirring scene. I had laid
myself down in my hut, and was just concluding in my mind that it would
be the wisest thing I could do to follow the example of my wild
companions, and go to sleep, when a low buzzing noise attracted my
attention, and I got up very quietly to see from whence it proceeded.
Although endeavouring to conceal themselves in the dark shadow of a
large pile of salt, I could make out by the light of the moon, Ohmed
Mahomed, Ebin Izaak, and Zaido, taking stock as it were, measuring very
carefully by cubits, the remnants and remaining pieces of blue calico.
Occasionally, a cautiously made long tear told of a division between
them, of what had not been given away as presents on the road; in fact,
they were sharing the perquisites of the office of Rasul Kafilah, as
agreed upon in Tajourah.

They seemed to be also enjoying a quiet cup of coffee; for the
long-necked globular pipkin, in which it was usual to boil that berry,
stood in the broad moonlight, and was frequently applied to. I sat down
in the shade of my own hut, and amused myself watching them until every
piece of cloth had been duly measured and divided, the last drop of
coffee strained through the bit of dried grass stuffed in the mouth of
the bottle-shaped coffee-pot, and their conversation upon profit and
loss had been adjourned until another night. Then cautiously retiring to
their rest, they stretched themselves upon their mats laid upon the
sandy mattress of the earth, and wrapping themselves up in their white
tobes, were soon numbered among the corse-like sleepers that in every
direction were reposing around. Over these, as if on watchful guard, the
glistening iron heads of their spears shone in the moon’s bright light,
and seemed to be ready, self-acting, to protect their dreaming owners.
Round polished shields were also ranged carefully against long heaps of
salt-bags, or suspended from the coarse fringe of saddle-staves that
surmounted the stores. The yellow bodied couchant camels filled the
centre of the camp, generally employed in triturating the sweetened cud
of the day’s repast, in the process producing the slightest noise and
gentlest action, necessary to give a greater contrasted stillness to the
otherwise quiet scene before me.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                             CHAPTER XXXI.


Journey from How to Mulkukuyu, general direction south-west, time
  marching, four hours and a-half.—Forest on right bank of Hawash.—The
  ford of Mulkukuyu.—Passage of the river.—Congratulations.—Scorpion
  hunting.—Visit the Hippopotamus lake.—Journey from Mulkukuyu to
  Azbotee, general direction west, time marching, five hours and
  a-half.—Lee Adu.—Change in character of the country.—View of the
  table-land of Abyssinia.—The so-called Abyssinian Alps.—Reflections.


_May 20th._—Being nearly the first on the line of march, as we were the
morning before, we again started from our halting-place some hours
before sunrise, and after descending the precipitous side of the ridge
of Billin or How, we entered upon an extensive and densely-wooded
country to the west. For the first few miles, the march was across a
very stony district, the mimosa-trees were low and ragged-looking, and
not growing so closely together as we found them to do as we advanced.
After proceeding some little distance, four ostriches, of a light-brown
or stone colour, trotted away on our approach. The long thick legs
seemed large in proportion to the body of the bird, and gave me the idea
of a light frame, suspended upon two powerful spring propellers. The
progress of the two hind legs of a trotting horse, separated from the
rest of the body, if it can be imagined, will represent the gait of
these birds when running. Another novelty to me, was a large mass of
elephants’ dung, that, like a large Stilton cheese, was carried on the
shoulder of one of the Hy Soumaulee, who brought it on purpose for me to
see, and who claimed a present accordingly for his trouble. I had also
given to me on this march, a lump of soft fresh gum-arabic, nearly a
pound in weight, and of most agreeable flavour. It reminded me in taste
of a green ear of corn.

I had ridden so far on my mule, but was now glad to dismount, as the
trees began to be very numerous and troublesome, for as they were
without exception, the long-thorned mimosa, my hat was continually being
snatched off my head, or my Arab frock torn from my shoulders. There was
some danger, too, to my eyes, for I stood a very great chance of having
them severely injured by the sudden return of the armed boughs, dragged
forward in the first instance by the shouldered spear of the individual
who preceded me, as he carelessly pushed his way among the trees. Our
path was a very monotonous one, something like travelling through a
close wood in England. The shade was agreeable enough, and we certainly
did come sometimes to open spots, where a little greensward refreshed
the foot by its softness.

After walking nearly three hours, the number of my informants, crying
out, “There is the Hawash! there is the Hawash!” increasing as we
advanced, we came, greatly to my surprise after all that had been told
me, very suddenly upon the edge of the low bank, which overhung the
much-talked-of, long-wished-for river. A few moments before we came in
sight of the stream, I noticed that Ohmed Medina was repeating a short
prayer of thanks, for having reached it in safety, in which I heartily
joined, and then lifting up my head, the yellow water of the Hawash was
the first object I saw. My escort, and others of the Kafilah, had, at
some distance, begun to race with one another to get down first, so that
when we came, thirty or forty of them were already swimming about in the
stream. Some confusion, and a good laugh was occasioned at the hurry of
this bathing party to get out, when, by a few shouts, and waving our
hands, Ohmed Medina intimated that it was my intention to celebrate our
arrival in true Arab style, by firing off my pistols and carabine. This
ceremony being duly performed, each report followed by a loud shout, I
and three or four others sat, sheltered from the sun, under the bank
close to the water’s edge, until the camels should come up. When I had
ceased firing, the swimmers resumed their bath; though frequently
invited, I did not choose to exhibit my white skin in all its unrobed
singularity, to the critical remarks of a lot of black Dankalli.

We sat waiting for the camels above an hour, which I occupied in taking
a good survey of the little reach before us, and in getting some
information relative to the general character and course of the river.
Its channel is a mere cut, or canal about fifteen feet deep and thirty
yards broad, in the alluvial plane which extends some miles on either
side. The water itself, at this period of the year, was only from two to
three feet in depth; and in many places, large stones showed their
summits above the surface. A fringe of various kinds of trees hung over
from the banks on either side, and each extremity of that portion of the
river I saw, seemed to be lost among their drooping, dark green foliage.

The first camel that came up, made a terrible mess of it, for he tumbled
down the short, but steep bank, and occasioned such a dust I thought
some explosion must have taken place. After this accident we thought it
best to get out of the way, and accordingly forded the stream. My mule,
who knew where she was as well as any of us, came cantering up with the
first string of camels, and being a thirsty kind of a body was not long
in letting herself carefully down the slope. I caught her easily as she
stooped her head to drink, and made her carry me across, for as the ford
took a long diagonal direction and the bottom abounded with stones, I
did not choose to hazard my bare feet among them. The opposite bank was
of exactly the same character as the one we had just before left, and my
mule having surmounted it by a few snatching, tear-away steps, I
dismounted and got under the shade of a large tree, from whence I could
have a good view of the passage of the Kafilah.

The camels crossed without any other accident, and immediately I had
seen the last of the stores over I followed Ohmed Mahomed, who had
previously come up to congratulate me on being in the dominions of
Sahale Selassee, king of Shoa.

We went about half a mile farther towards the west before we came to the
halting-place for the day, which was called Mulkukuyu, from the passage
at this place over the Hawash; _melka_, or _mulku_, in the language of
the Galla, signifying a ford.

Here I found a sudden change from the well-wooded character of the other
side, for although high trees and a considerable jungle existed, we all
at once halted in a lava-abounding country; low ridges, and steep,
conical, crater-like hills being visible in whatever direction we
turned. Still, these were all well moulded up to their bases, and
numerous broad impressions of the feet of the heavy elephant, deeply
indented the rich and fertile soil.

I was congratulating myself so entirely all the day at having reached
the other side of the Hawash, that I made but very few other
observations upon the surrounding country. Towards evening Ohmed Medina,
with his usual anxiety for me to see as much as I could, brought four or
five Hy Soumaulee to go with him and me to the shores of a large lake in
the immediate neighbourhood. I found it to be an irregular and very
circumscribed depression among some low flat-topped hills, and
communicating by a deeply-cut but narrow channel, with the river. This
was now however, quite dry, and the waters of the lake appeared to be
much lower than the level of the Hawash. Lofty trees, many of them quite
new to me, grew close down to the water’s edge. Beneath them were some
white pelicans, with their heads and long beaks resting upon their
craws, that seemed to be idly ruminating upon their last meal of fish.

The smooth surface of the lake at intervals, was frequently disturbed by
the cautiously protruded face and nostrils of a bulky hippopotamus,
which, snorting with a deeply-drawn breath, would prepare for his
gambolling plunge again to the bottom. I fired several times, but
without success, although my companions were satisfied themselves that
some were killed, because the noise of the report, and perhaps the soft
harmless tap of a leaden bullet, induced the animals to remove
themselves farther off, or to keep altogether out of sight below the
surface, as on occasions of emergency they can remain for a long period
at the bottom without a fresh supply of air. I looked out for
crocodiles, many of which, other travellers reported were to be seen in
this lake. I do not question the correctness of these observations
because I did not happen to see one myself. Many of my companions
appeared to be familiar with the sight of them, for among other
astonishing beasts I was to see at the Hawash was one, they told me,
something like a lizard, which they used to represent by joining the two
elbows together, and then opening wide the hands and fore arms,
intimated what an extent of mouth this animal had. Traces of hyænas, and
of some large feline animal, were repeatedly seen, and although I saw no
elephants in this place, their sharp trumpet cry was heard throughout
the next night.

On idly turning over some stones, to see the greatest number of
scorpions I could find in one family, I came upon a large black
centipede, curled up in the usual manner of these reptiles when they are
exposed. Stooping to examine it more closely, Ohmed Medina and others,
who had seen me without remark amusing myself with the scorpions now
cried out that this would kill me, and some got up from the ground to
pull me away, for they supposed I was going to take hold of it. Turning
up my face with a peculiar look, as if to ask them if they thought me
such a goose, I said in English inquiringly, “Bite like devil?” to which
Ohmed Medina, in a tone of the most decided affirmation, made me laugh
by repeating my words like an echo, “Bite like devil!” accompanied with
repeated nods of the head so appropriately, that he appeared fully to
understand the import of the words he used.

We loitered along the stony banks of the lake until long after the moon
had risen, in the vain hope that the hippopotami would come out to
graze, as is usual with them during the night. This, however, they were
prevented doing, being alarmed by loud laughter and the clapping of
hands which proceeded from our camp, for the younger people of the
Kafilah were amusing themselves with dancing to celebrate their safe
passage over the Hawash. The unusual noise confined the unwieldy beasts
to their watery home, although the frequent rough snort, and the ripple
which followed their return to the bottom of the lake, were evidences of
the interest with which they watched for the termination of the
boisterous sounds that, so unaccountably to them, broke upon the
stillness of night, and usurped with whooping yells the usual retreats
of solitude and silence.

A sympathetic feeling we shared with the hungry animals occasioned us to
return to camp, where Zaido excused himself for having nothing ready to
eat, save some sun-dried strips of raw meat, by telling me that he had
been occupied the whole evening with washing his tobe and that of Ohmed
Mahomed. To interest me more in the excuse, he entered into the details
of some great curiosity in the water way, which he described as lying
more to the west than the lake I had just been visiting. This he
asserted to be a natural reservoir of soap and water, and as evidence of
its cleansing qualities, pointed to the dancers and to others more
tranquil, who had lain down for the night, and I could perceive by the
light of the moon a great improvement in the appearance of their tobes,
the whiteness of which was really remarkable, considering the state of
dirt and grease I had seen them in during the morning. As this water was
also said to be undrinkable, and had a very bad smell, I concluded it to
be some mineral water, and determined to visit it the next morning.

A lucifer match and a few dry sticks soon produced a crackling blaze,
upon which was thrown a yard or two of the meat rope, that was quickly
cooked and as speedily disappeared, and as soon as the dinner things
were carried away, and the cloth removed, I joined in the festive
revelries, taking part in turns both in the opera and ballet. A spirit
of merriment seemed to be abroad, and I saw no reason why I should not
join the rest, so picked up an old gourd-shell bottle, sat myself down
on the top of my hut, and contributed to the music by thumping a
hollow-sounding tune out of the bottom of this primitive tambourine. The
dancing circle in front redoubled their efforts, shrieking, laughing,
yelling, clapping hands, and hopping on alternate legs around a central
figure, who, with body and head now bent forwards, now thrown backwards,
slowly pirouetted in a direction contrary to that of the others, whilst
with equal vigour, he plied his open hands. Thus they danced, thus I and
others played; and when tired, I threw down my musical instrument, Allee
and another struggled for the direction of the band, and I left the
former far outshining me both in vivacity and dexterity of touch,
although he managed luckily for my repose, very soon to knock out the
bottom of the gourd, and thus gave the signal for the party to break up.

_May 21st._—We started by sunrise this morning, the principal Wahama
Kafilah alone accompanying us; the remainder, belonging to the different
tribes, determined to remain at Mulkukuyu another day. About half a mile
from our halting-place, we marched along the border of the washing lake,
and I turned aside, with some of the Kafilah people, to examine it.

A few minutes’ walk satisfied me that it occupied the basin-like
depression of one of a number of low extinct craters, among which we had
just been moving. A descent of a few yards, took me to the edge of the
water, which, as I expected, was of a mineral character, having an
alkaline taste, and slightly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas,
detected by its smell. The lake was nearly circular; but its diameter
was not one hundred yards in length. Its surface presented a green
appearance, not occasioned, as I could perceive, by any subaqueous
vegetation; and the water, when taken out, was colourless, and very
clear.

Our road was sometimes over a black soil of decomposing vegetable
matter, beneath high shady trees, among which myriads of a small
chattering bird about the size of a sparrow, sent up one continual din,
that, in some situations, put talking to each other as we passed, quite
out of the question. Many of the trees had been deprived of all their
lower branches by the elephant, which, on making a meal, tears down with
his trunk one of these large limbs, and eats at his leisure the younger
shoots and leaves. Some of those I saw thus pulled down, were from a
height of at least twelve or fifteen feet from the ground, and were
frequently more than six inches in diameter. A striking contrast between
two very different agents in thus bringing large trees to the earth, was
afforded by the juxtaposition of the overturned trunks of others, among
and underneath whose roots, the many-turretted residence of the white
ant had been constructed; the effect of which was, that very soon after
these insects had so located themselves, the slightest breeze would
occasion the downfall of the tree, and trunks thus fallen, and those
dragged down by the elephant, lie side by side. Sometimes in this
manner, little savannahs or open spots of green growing grass are
formed, where the rays of the sun are thus enabled to penetrate the
otherwise dense gloom of the few miles of forest that exists along the
western bank of the Hawash.

Our road was one formed entirely by elephants in their wanderings
backwards and forwards from the river to the extensive lake of Lee Adu,
or Whitewater, situated about eight miles to the west of the Hawash, at
the ford of Mulkukuyu. We arrived at Lee Adu in three hours, and halted
a short time for the camels and mules to drink; we then proceeded again
for two hours more, when we reached the commencement of a large
undulating plain, called Azbotee, from where we had the first full and
splendid view of the high table-land of Shoa, and the numerous small
hills and valleys which occupy the long sloping talus from the edge of
the elevated plateau in the distance, to the low level district in the
neighbourhood where we were.

At Lee Adu, Ohmed Medina, Adam Burrah, Moosa, and myself, bathed in a
retired corner of this broad sheet of water. Large fields of high reeds
and rushes bordered it for some distance around us, and the broad-leaved
lotus, with its white, cup-like flowers, covered the surface. Many a
splashing duck, and diving waterfowl, scared by us now left their
previously quiet retreat. The white ibis flew to the opposite side of
the lake, whilst screaming jays of many-coloured plumage passed over our
heads, seeking some home more retired than the disturbed wood, through
which our camels were then passing.

On our road to Azbotee, I observed that the country to the west of Lee
Adu, assumes a very different aspect to that in the opposite direction,
towards the Hawash. The neighbourhood of the lake marks the commencement
of a more open district, very much resembling the plains of Southern
Africa, being devoid of trees, and a not very thick jungle of low bushes
and shrubs, admitting a clear view over them. Among other plants in this
situation, I noticed immense quantities of the Socotrine aloe plant,
with its long variegated fleshy leaves, whip-like flower stalk, and
bright orange-coloured corollas depending like small bells from its
summit.

At Azbotee, the country to the north and east is marked by several
volcanic craters, of some elevation; and a ridge occupies the tract we
had just passed over, of slight elevation certainly, but sufficient to
shut out from sight the opposite slope to the Hawash, except in the
immediate neighbourhood of Lee Adu, which extends to the left, or south,
where its waters still were seen gleaming through the tall trees,
growing upon its banks. Before us were clumps of mimosa-trees, at first
“few and far between,” that prepared us gradually for a thickly-wooded
belt, that could be perceived at the bottom of the gentle slope from
Azbotee to Kokki, and which marked the channel of a stream flowing to
the south and east, probably into Lee Adu. Beyond, was the valley of
Kokki, so called from the number of guinea-fowl found there. A
succession of low hills, gradually increasing in elevation, now leads
the eye towards the north-west until it rests upon the town of Farree,
which, plainly visible, occupies the summits of some hills, that
overtopped the intervening heights, and is distant about fifteen miles
from Azbotee, in a straight line.

In the neighbourhood of Farree, coronets of smoke surmounting many a
hilltop, told of villages and human life, and dotted with small white
clouds the amphitheatre behind.

Ohmed Medina, with an obliging interest in my being amused, pointed out
the situation of succeeding towns, to the distant centre of the highest
ridge, where he placed Ankobar, the capital of Shoa; whilst Ohmed
Mahomed and Ebin Izaak, with the same instinctive participation in the
pleasure I felt, as a stranger, upon first witnessing the splendid
prospect that lay before me, assisted in explaining the natural
panorama; the former sitting upon the half-detached branch of an
elephant-torn mimosa, under which we were standing, and Ebin Izaak, with
outstretched hand, the other resting on my shoulder, followed the
direction of Ohmed Medina’s spear, to aid me in letting fall my
observation upon the exact spot, by directing me to look at white
patches of smoke, to the dark shadow of a cloud, to red-coloured earth,
or to anything of a prominent character, by which I could distinguish
each locality as it was named by Ohmed Medina. Thus was my eye
conducted, and thus my view travelled, until the diminishing effects of
distance gradually confounded particulars, and the strained sight was
glad to find a bound to farther vision in the nearly level line,
encroaching upon the sky, that characterizes the bluff termination to
the east of the table-land of Abyssinia. All the time I was thus
occupied, it never occurred to me, that this long slope of about thirty
miles, and rising gradually from the elevation of two thousand feet to
that of nine thousand feet above the level of the sea, that this
gently-inclined plane covered with thousands of little hills, and as
many little valleys, was the district of the so-called Abyssinian Alps.
Of course, I had quite a different idea of such a character of country,
which required, I thought, the high, towering, romantic rocks of
mountain limestone, or of granite, that form the chief features of the
Alps of Switzerland, or the equally wild scenery of the mountains of
Sweden and Norway. I expected that I had yet to travel a long, long
distance to obtain a view of those, which I supposed to be stupendous
hills, and never dreamt that such a sacrifice of truth for effect could
be made, or such an erroneous judgment formed, as to call these little
eminences the Abyssinian Alps. It is ridiculous so to name a succession
of low, denuded hills; the top of almost every one of them being the
perching-place of a little hamlet or town, whilst their sides are most
beautifully cultivated to their very summits, and exhibit, on the lower
portions of the inclined plane, fields of cotton, of teff, or of maize;
whilst the ascent, on the journey to Shoa, admits of wheat, barley, and
linseed being produced. Little rivulets, whose constant course have
deepened their channels into valleys, and formed these hills out of the
once level slope, trickle down until, by combining, they form streams
which sometimes do, and sometimes do not, reach the Hawash. This river
is, in fact, entirely formed of the waters of this slope, which is the
prominent feature of the intermediate country between its stream and the
terminating edge of the table-land above. A concluding remark upon this
subject is, that it would be difficult to find one of these Abyssinian
Alps that, from its own base, independent of its position upon the
slope, would measure seven hundred feet high.

I sat with my companions some time, asking and receiving information,
now the more interesting, from the vicinity I was in to the first stage,
as I considered it, of my contemplated African journey; and where I had
purposed to myself a stay of some months, to prepare me for future
endeavours to penetrate farther into the continent. The change of
feeling too, on again becoming the denizen of a country where at least
social order was maintained, was exciting in its way, for I had learnt
to value civil rule as it ought to be, and I should have but little
hesitation in giving my vote, if the question were the extreme
absolutism of Shoa, or the equally extreme of liberty possessed by the
Dankalli tribes. For my part, I never thought myself so much of a slave
before, for I certainly felt grateful at having come scathless through
the country of the freest and most lawless set of men on the face of the
earth; and happy in getting to Shoa, where the first thing that happened
to me was being confined seven or eight days in a house, with a sentinel
over me, upon no other excuse but that my disposition and character
should be submitted to such testing ordeal. But I am anticipating. Of
this kind is the education a traveller gets, and I fully agree with de
Montbron, (the quotation appended to the first canto of Childe Harold,)
who, in his “Cosmopolite,” remarks:—

“L’univers est une espèce de livre dont on n’a lu que la première page,
quand on n’a vu que son pays. J’en ai feuilleté un assez grand nombre
que j’ai trouvé également mauvaises cet examen ne m’a point été
infructueux. Je haïssais ma patrie. Toutes les impertinences des peuples
divers, parmi lesquels j’ai vécu m’ont reconcilié avec elle. Quand je
n’aurais tiré d’autre bénéfice de mes voyages que celui-là je n’eu
regretterais ni les frais ne les fatigues.”

I looked upon the lovely scene so long, and felt so strongly my return
to civilized life, that, like a worthy friend of mine relating to me his
feelings on reaching the self-same spot, I could have found relief in a
good flow of tears, so sincere was my joy. Numerous residences of man
were in sight, snug straw-thatched hives they looked, but houses of any
sort were as old friends to me, and my heart rejoiced when I beheld
them. I always connect happiness with homes; and “smiling villages,” is
I am sure, one of those beautiful expressions of instinct we naturally
make when the full heart adds by reflection its own gladness to the
landscape.

On our return to the camp, I thought it necessary to make such change in
my garments as should add a little more of a civilized character to my
own appearance, to harmonize somewhat with the state of society, for
which I was going to exchange my present gipsey life. I accordingly got
out, during the night, the only shirt I had left of the number I had
reserved for the journey whilst in Tajourah; all of which, with this
exception, in the course of two or three weeks, had been worn, taken
off, and given to Zaido, in the vain hope of getting them washed; but
which, in every case, were obliged to be divided amongst the importunate
beggars who happened to be near at the moment. One would want one of the
skirts for his child, a second would want the other for his wife, then
the sleeves were found to be excellent dusters, with which the Dankalli
are perpetually cleaning and brightening up their shields, so that among
them all, every succeeding shirt was soon made old rags of, until I
found it equally convenient to go without as with one, and for the last
month of my journey my clothing was almost as scanty as my companions,
and had I parted with anything more, I should certainly have required
some of their clothes in return.

I now also exchanged my old Arab frock for a French blouse, donned a
clean pair of white trowsers, and the black silk handkerchief I had
previously worn round my waist was transferred to my neck. Having
finished my toilette, I again visited the rent mimosa-tree, taking with
me a small telescope, to assist me in examining places the names of
which were familiar, from having with me a part of the journal of the
Rev. Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf, on the occasion of their first visit to
Shoa by the Adal road.

I was now surrounded by crowds of the Kafilah people, several of whom
seizing the glass, as they could get it, took a moment’s peep, not
unfrequently with the closed eye, at the country before them; but all
vociferated “Whallah,” that what they had seen was most extraordinary.

A short interval of darkness before the moon rose occasioned us to
retire to the camp, but not long after her yellow light shed a rich
softness upon everything that could be seen, I found myself sitting
against the boxes that formed my hut, with my face turned towards the
promised land, which I anticipated was so fraught with opportunities of
enterprise, and of every circumstance favourable for exploring the
unknown countries of intra-tropical Africa.


------------------------------------------------------------------------




                             CHAPTER XXXII.


Journey from Azbotee to Dinnomalee, general direction, W.N.W., time
  marching, seven hours.—Start with escort in the night.—Pass Sheik’s
  tomb.—Reach Kokki.—Short halt.—Wahama town.—Proceed to
  Dinnomalee.—Arrive.—Detained by Custom-house officers.—Get to Farree,
  W.N.W., two miles from Dinnomalee.—Accommodations.—Hospitable
  receptions.


_May 22d._—Famous in my history for being the last day’s journey before
reaching the first frontier station of the kingdom of Shoa. In a calahm
the evening before it had been arranged that Ohmed Medina, Ohmed
Mahomed, Ebin Izaak, and all the Hy Soumaulee, except their Chief,
Carmel Ibrahim, and two others who had stayed with their countrymen at
Mulkukuyu, should accompany me during the night, leaving the Kafilah to
come on by sunrise. The object to be gained by this was to enable us to
reach Dinnomalee, where Kafilahs are received and duties paid to the
Governor of Efat, so early that there might be time to send a messenger
to Guancho, where that functionary resided, informing him of our
arrival, and that he might come down the same day, without obliging us
to remain unnecessarily another night at Dinnomalee. Himyah and a
Tajourah merchant were put in charge of the Kafilah, the latter, who had
a mule, lending it to Ohmed Medina, so that four of us were mounted. We
all looked very gay in our new or clean clothing, and the mules pranced
along, shaking their heads like a band of animal performers delighting
in sweet sounds, for, fastened around their necks were some pounds of
music in the shape of large iron bells, suspended from tinkling brass
chains, which occasioned together a very harmonious jingle, not so soft,
perhaps, as an Æolian harp, but which, considering our situation, was
quite as striking in effect.

We proceeded at a quick rate, for the escort, with some followers from
the Kafilahs, like a lot of boys just broke loose from school, were
racing and shouting nearly the whole way, tearing through the low bushes
and shrubs like water rushing over a noisy fall. In this manner we
travelled along for some distance, by sunrise reaching the gently
sloping banks of the small stream running along the bottom of the valley
of Kokki, its channel cut through a stratum of very coarse pebbly
gravel, and strewn with large rolled stones.

About half way between Azbotee and Kokki we passed a small kairn of
stones, nearly five feet high, covered with decayed branches of several
kinds of trees. This was the grave of a greatly revered sheik, and all
of my companions supplied themselves with a little of the foliage of any
tree that was near to them. I and the others who were mounted had each a
small branch given to us, which, like those of the others, we threw upon
the kairn as we passed. Some few of the “mollums,” or best learned of
the party, recited a short prayer from the Koran, whilst I and the
shamefully ignorant satisfied ourselves by calling out two or three
times, “Myhisee tymbeeda!” (“Good morning, I hope you sleep well!”) The
successive repetitions of this expression, as each careless Bedouin
deposited his natural wreath and then ran on, was most amusing, and I
thought of a lot of children performing some ceremony they had been
taught was right, but cared very little how or why it was done.

The trees in the valley of Kokki more nearly approached the size of
English oaks or pines than any I had yet seen, but I disappointed my
friends by not alluding to their height or thick trunks. Ebin Izaak at
last remarked that I had never seen any like them in my country. I
replied, that except whilst young, the trees of England were never less
than these, nor did they strike me as being astonishingly large,
although I supposed they would appear so to him, accustomed only to the
dwarf mimosa-trees of Adal.

We halted here for two hours, during which time a large herd of cattle,
conducted by a few men, were brought to the stream to drink. Both men
and cattle had every appearance of being Dankalli, and inquiring, I
found that they belonged to some members of the Wahama tribe, who by
permission of the Negoos, or King of Shoa, Sahale Selassee, occupied the
country between the Hawash and Dinnomalee. They paid as a tribute
annually one ox for every hundred head of cattle in their herds, and
were also accustomed to give to the King what little ivory they chanced
to pick up from the heads of elephants, naturally deceased. The King, as
on every other occasion, we spoke about him, either among ourselves, or
with others, was the subject of the warmest commendation. His liberality
and justice were the theme of every one so far, and here some arms and
clothes, recently bestowed by him upon this tribe, were brought to us
for our inspection and admiration. Although some portion of these people
still lived in the wigwams of their own country, surrounded by a low
hedge of dry mimosa branches, and enclosed their cattle for safety
during the night in stone kraals; others, who had married Abyssinian
women, had assumed more civilized habits. These observed more strictly
the laws and ceremonies of the Mahomedan religion, being particularly
observant of the stated times and forms of prayer. They inhabited a
village that stood on the edge of the opposite bank of Kokki, embosomed
amidst high trees, among which the conical thatched roofs of their
houses were visible, and the loud crowing of a cock told also, that they
had surmounted the prejudices of their Bedouin ancestors against keeping
fowls.

The leading camels of the caravan coming into sight, we learnt from some
of the faster walkers who preceded it, that one of the Hy Soumaulee
Kafilahs, having travelled during the night from Mulkukuyu, had arrived
at Azbotee, just as our camels were moving off, and rather than remain
alone at that place, had determined to continue their march with us, at
least, as far as the present spot, which I could see was sometimes made
a halting-place for Kafilahs.

Again starting on our march, we followed the bed of a small stream,
flowing into the valley of Kokki; and which, after leading us a short
distance through some beautiful forest scenery, entered a ravine, having
high precipitous cliffs on either side of a very light coloured
trachytic rock. In huge fissures, that traversed the faces of these
perpendicular walls of stone, large trees, among which I noticed the
tamarind, flourished in great luxuriance, projecting from their singular
habitats, over the passing traveller. Every twenty yards, the stream, in
its serpentine course, presented a new picture, and it will be very long
before I forget the series of little romantic landscapes I cast my eye
over, during our too hasty passage. The bottom of this water-cut chasm
was not wider than a common road in England, and nearly as level. It was
covered with a beautiful green turf of the softest and finest young
grass. The meandering thread of the gently rippling brook that passed
along, now crossing our path, and now expanding into little pools of the
clearest water, was all that represented the powerful agent that had
effected the denudation of this deep and extensive, though narrow
defile; and the triumph of easy, gentle persuasion, found no bad type in
the effects of this little stream upon the rocky walls that bounded its
deeply-cut channel.

We opened, at length, upon some narrow valleys, that seemed each to
contribute in the rainy season its quota, to the swollen river that then
joins the Kokki. Across these we passed, plucking, as we went, an
unctuous, gelatinous, berry; not unlike in taste and character to our
yew berry; and which grew upon a shrub that appeared to belong to the
honey-suckle tribe, without depending, however, upon any other but its
own short strong stem for support. Its fruit appears to be a great
favourite with the Dankalli, who dry the berries in the sun, and carry
down considerable quantities with them on their return to Tajourah, for
their friends at home.

We now entered a jungly district, the height of the shrubs and bushes
preventing any extensive view; besides, I was too much occupied in
taking care of my eyes and face, from the lashing recoil of the
impatient branches, at being disturbed by the spears of the wild
Bedouins dashing by. After a march of about six miles from Kokki, we
came to a more sparingly-wooded spot, and on an adjoining height, we
discerned some men sitting in very white tobes, who appeared to be
waiting for, or watching, our approach. As soon as we saw them, there
was a general cry out for me to fire, and I scarcely knew what to think
of it; but the oft-repeated word, “Abshee,” “Abshee,” soon told me that
the men were Abyssinians, and I understood that I was to give them a
salute. Ohmed Medina being among the most importunate for this display,
I laughingly proposed, he should fire my carabine off himself, to which,
much to my surprise, he readily acquiesced; and, after I had cocked both
barrels, banged away without any hesitation, securing the applause of
all around for his unflinching courage. He was not satisfied with this,
but turned to ask me also, if he were not a brave soldier? to which I,
of course, assented. A few moments more brought us on to a small open
place of green-sward, surrounded by high mimosa-trees, beneath one of
which we dismounted, and walked towards the men in the clean tobes, who
had also risen, and were now coming to receive us. This was the station
of Dinnomalee, where the assair, or tythe, of all articles of
merchandise introduced into the Mangust, or kingdom of Shoa, is paid to
the King as duty.

After some moments of very ceremonious greeting, we were conducted
beneath the convenient canopy of a flat-topped mimosa which threw, some
distance from the trunk, a circular shade, where we squatted down; and
an animated conversation was carried on between my Tajourah friends and
the representatives, as our new acquaintances turned out to be, of the
Wallasmah, or Governor of the province of Efat, named Mahomed, who is
also chief of the customs upon this frontier. A large bag of dollars,
was also produced from somewhere on our side, and with a splendid
affectation of disregard, was slapped down with a loud ring upon the
ground, between Ohmed Mahomed and Ohmed Medina. The jingling music had
its effect upon our Abyssinian friends, lighting up their countenances,
as their dark faces assumed a smiling expression, that said out plainly,
“Oh! how glad we are to see you.”

Two or three hours passed away, and I began to tire of such a long
calahm, in which I could take no part, so I asked Ohmed Medina if the
town of Farree was in this neighbourhood, that I might go and take up my
residence there at once. He asked me not to go until the Kafilah came
up, which would not now be long; so I reseated myself and commenced
again my examination of the surrounding country. Numerous towns and
villages were in sight, all occupying the tops of small hills, which
formed the limits of observation, at the distance of not more than three
miles. The little savannah where we were seated appeared surrounded by a
narrow, well-wooded belt, beyond which, on the rising slopes of the
hills, could be seen fields of cotton-bushes, and of the high jowaree
maize, cultivated nearly to the summits; where a few green trees
overhung conical straw-thatched roofs, resting upon low wattled walls,
which is the general character, differing only in size, of all
Abyssinian houses.

The Kafilah did not make its appearance till almost sunset, and I got
still more tired and vexed at such a compulsatory stay, for nothing
would induce the principal of the party who received us to allow our
proceeding farther until the messenger had returned from Guancho, the
seat of the Wallasmah Mahomed, some six or seven miles off to the west.
After the sun had set, the man returned bearing commands for all
parties; but that which interested me most, was the order given to take
me to Farree, and provide me with a house, and my escort with a dinner
of bread and ale at Dinnomalee. He also announced the coming of the
Wallasmah the next day to examine the salt and other merchandise of the
several Kafilahs. Ohmed Medina and Ohmed Mahomed were to remain with the
escort, and not to be allowed to accompany me to Farree, but as I looked
with some suspicion upon such peremptory orders, I did not like being
separated from those I could trust; especially as, from several hints
given me by Ohmed Medina, I was led to suspect that the members of the
embassy were all in prison. I insisted therefore remaining where I was,
or that the Hy Soumaulee should go to Farree with me; and as these
untamed gentlemen had already taken offence, and sat in the usual
threatening manner, determined to force their way if any attempt were
made to prevent them, it was at length, after a long debate, agreed that
they should occupy the garden, or enclosure, around the house to which I
was to be taken; I becoming responsible to the negoos, or king, whose
name they appeared to look upon as sacred, for this breach of the
particular command that had been issued respecting any more English that
might come up to Shoa. During the discussion, I could not help laughing
at one of the Abyssinians, who had taken my carabine as it lay upon the
ground, and seemed unwilling to give it up to me on my request, calling
out as he held it away, “Y’ negoos, Y’ negoos, Sahale Selassee,” as if
he had been a constable, and that these words were an inviolable
authority. Moosa, who saw the whole affair, and heard me telling the man
to put the gun down, now interfered, and saying something in a
threatening tone, the fat burly citizen, who I could see was no fighting
character, quickly did as he was commanded, but still repeating, “Sahale
Selassee, Sahale Selassee.”

My mule being brought, I mounted for a long ride, as I expected, and
proceeded with the Hy Soumaulee, who, having gained their point of
accompanying me, were in great glee, shouting to each other as they
darted among the trees, or raced through the more cultivated parts,
running and leaping as they went over the low cotton-bushes that stood
in their way. Much to my astonishment, on rounding the shoulder of a
projecting ridge, we came in sight of the town of Farree, situated not a
quarter of an hour’s walk to the west of Dinnomalee. We threaded our way
across the few fields that intervened by a narrow path that reminded me
of the narrow church-ways across cultivated lands in England. Then
ascending a steep elevation, of about two hundred feet high, by a rough
stony road, entered an open depressed space, between four or five
pap-like elevations into which the summit of the hill was divided, each
of which was surmounted by a little group of houses, whilst the
concavity in the midst formed a kind of green, or market-place, in the
centre of which was a low enclosure of loose stones surrounding a few
young mimosa-trees. Suspended from several of the branches I saw the
tail, and a long slip of the skin, of a hyæna, with some similar remains
of wild cats, hung up as trophies, and as an instructive lesson to the
wild animals in the neighbourhood of the evil results of pilfering
hen-roosts or folds.

I rested myself awhile against the “madubbah,” or stone fence, upon
which sat several Hy Soumaulee perched as if upon a roost, until our
guide returned, he having gone to select a house and garden for the
accommodation of myself and suite. At last we were taken to the same
house in which I was informed all previous travellers had stayed, and
where also poor Mr. Airston died.[7] The goodman was absent at Aliu Amba
market, but his two wives (he was a Mahomedan) shewed me every
attention, spreading a large ox-skin upon the raised earth or platform,
two feet high, which occupied half the apartment. The women made signs
to me to take off my boots, lay aside my arms, and lie down whilst they
prepared some bread for my evening meal. The Hy Soumaulee sat on their
heels very patiently, in the little compound, surrounded by a high stick
fence, in which the house stood. The entrance-gate, by the by, was of a
very singular kind, its upper edge being attached by hide hinges to the
lintel. When opened it required to be lifted up, and a stick prop was
placed under the lower edge to support it. It shut down something like a
trap door.

Footnote 7:

  This gentleman, after having passed through all the dangers of the
  Adal country, was suddenly attacked with inflammation of the brain at
  Farree, where he was awaiting the permission of the negoos to enter
  Shoa. He died after a few days’ illness, during which time M. Rochet
  d’Hericourt and Mr. Krapf rendered every available assistance. Some
  months after I had lived in Shoa I visited the Wallasmah, on purpose
  to see the state prisons of Guancho. I remained all night, and in the
  morning was taken to a ridge opposite, towards the south-west, where
  stood a small “Bait y’ Christian,” the church of St. Michael’s in
  Ahgobba. I felt pleased, when I reached the spot, that the object of
  my attendants was to point out the grave of my deceased countryman,
  which, with natural good feeling, they had supposed would be
  interesting to me. To give Mr. Airston Christian burial, the
  kind-hearted people of Farree (Mahomedans) must have carried his
  corpse more than six miles over the roughest road imaginable.

Some of the best known of my escort I called into the house to converse
with, whilst, in the meantime, proclamation was being made through the
village for the food to be prepared, with which to supply the strangers;
each householder being called upon to bring in two large round crumpets,
a foot and a-half in diameter, as the contribution for that purpose. I
was much pleased with this evidence of the hospitable character of my
new friends, it being an invariable custom, on the arrival of any
traveller in Abyssinian towns, to supply him with food at the public
expense for the first few days, or until the pleasure of the King can be
known, who then generally takes upon himself the maintenance of his
visitor, during the remainder of his stay in the country. It added to my
gratification, also, to observe that this duty was attended to promptly,
and with apparent good will, by the inhabitants. Had it been otherwise,
I should certainly have refused such a kind of supply; but not the least
evidence of disinclination afforded me the opportunity of offering to
pay for our entertainment.

In less than an hour I saw realized the picture of Abyssinian peace and
plenty, which had been frequently described in the Adal country, by the
admiring Bedouins and Kafilah men, who used to enact the carrying of
bread on their head, and large jars of ale upon their shoulders, to give
me an idea of what I might expect in that happy land. Laughing girls in
dark red gowns, and staid married women similarly attired, but, to mark
the difference, with a guftah, or three-cornered double kerchief cap of
the same colour, firmly fastened close under the point of the chin, came
trooping down, each with a shallow saucer-like basket of variegated red
and yellow straw balanced upon her head. The high conical covers being
taken off as the baskets were placed at the feet of the misselannee, or
steward of the governor of the town, they were found to contain the two
required cakes of a very light bread, yet warm and steaming, and which
were, only much larger, exactly like the crumpet or pikelit of England.
These were made of the flour of teff, the small seeds of a grass, which
makes much lighter bread than wheat.

Sufficient of these for the supply of nearly forty men were soon heaped
high in two large receiving baskets; but as meat did not seem to be
forthcoming, I gave a dollar privately to Adam Burrah, who came and
whispered the name and that of bullock in my ear, a sufficient hint,
which I readily took. He and Moosa were absent but a short time before
they returned with a young cow, which was killed, and a requisition for
wood being made to the misselannee, that functionary gave orders for a
quantity immediately to be brought to cook the meat. Everything seemed
to be conducted with the greatest quiet and order, even the wild
Dankalli themselves appeared to be affected by example, and in Farree
endeavoured to assume civilized airs and conduct.

Just as supper was ready, the Wallasmah Mahomed sent down to me, from
his residence at Gauncho, six miles distant, three large jars, each
containing about five gallons of fine strong ale, so that a regular
banquet closed the first day of my arrival in Shoa. Before it was
concluded a numerous and very jovial party had collected, for, contrary
to the strict orders that had been issued, after sunset nearly all the
men of the Kafilah at Dinnomalee came stealing in, in parties of two and
three, until not half a dozen, I should think, remained to take care of
the camels and stores. Several came to me begging for sheep, and as I
found that I could purchase five of the animals fully grown, for a
dollar, I was glad to be able, at such a reasonable rate, to add to the
pleasures of my companions, who seemed determined to make themselves
happy and comfortable.

The moon shone upon a splendid scene of enjoyment that night. Every
village-capped height in the neighbourhood had its bonfire. All around
resounded with the quick sharp clapping of hands, the measured
accompaniment of song and dance. No learned commentator was needed here.
Circumstances themselves aptly enough illustrated the Psalmist’s
situation and feelings, for “Clap your hands, O ye little hills,”
personifies and expresses the gladness and praise of a people situated
like the Amhara, whose language and whose customs identify their origin
with that of the Jews.

Long before the revels ended I had laid myself down on the ox-skin which
had served me as a couch during the day, and soon fell fast asleep. In
the same apartment lay the wives of the owner of the house, two or three
slave-girls, and some young children. Fowls also were roosting upon a
kind of shelf made of jowaree stalks, bound together and placed against
the wall, and had I not occupied the whole of the raised platform of
clay and stones, I expect the family would have slept upon it, and two
oxen, unceremoniously shut out to sleep with the Hy Soumaulee in the
garden, would have occupied that part of the house where now, huddled
together, the women and children were sleeping.

Having arrived in Abyssinia, I shall conclude my account of the journey
through Adal with a few remarks upon the character of the Dankalli,
which, upon a review of what I have written, seem necessary to explain
the opinion I hold of the great capabilities possessed by this family of
man.

In the first place, I am bound to add my testimony to that of every
other traveller, to the proneness of the Dankalli to shed human blood,
and the little value they seem to attach to human life. By a distortion
of moral and natural ideas of right and wrong, unparalleled in the
history of any other people, murder is considered by them to be highly
honourable. Every fresh assassination is rewarded by an additional
personal ornament, and the destruction of a sleeping guest, or of a
fighting foe, contribute alike to the credit and reputation of the
brave. The well dissembled bearing by which they lure the most
suspicious into a fatal confidence, and the firm bravery with which they
attack a more powerful enemy, can only be referred to the operation of
mental powers of the very first order, and, according to my own ideas of
the nature of man, they present the extreme of moral degradation that
the caste to which they belong can fall into. I am not a willing
evidence against a people among whom I spent some not unpleasant days,
and received much instruction from the opportunities afforded me of
studying their character, and the circumstances under which they are
placed, and which convinced me that, if properly educated and directed,
they would take a very high rank among civilized nations. I feel assured
that in a more favourable situation, and under another social economy,
those intellectual capabilities now only developed in evil, would fast
progress to the most enlightened civilization.

I must be allowed, in justice, to notice the honesty and good faith that
marked the care of the boxes and packages I found at Errur. The
interference of the Tajourah people in that matter does not affect the
principle I contend for, they being, as are all inhabitants of the towns
on the sea-coast of Adal, descended from Abyssinian mothers, and not of
the pure Affah blood. This act of trustworthiness, where great
temptation existed, may be only singular, from the few opportunities the
Dankalli have of exercising their natural good qualities.

I have, also, made no mention that several times during my journey
attempts were made by the Dankalli to teach me the game of gubertah,
something similar to our backgammon, played with dry camels’ dung, and a
number of holes in the ground. These attempts failed entirely, through
my want of capacity, whilst any little trick of legerdemain, with which
I sometimes amused them, was soon learnt, and in many instances they
themselves detected the manner in which the trick was performed. One
instance of this quickness of perception struck me particularly. It was
a game I showed to them, in which seven small stones represented two
thieves and five horses, the deception in which consists of picking up
one of the representatives alternately with each hand, yet at the
conclusion to shew the horses and thieves still in the unequal numbers
of two and five in either hand. This, after a little observation, was
performed by several of my companions, and I recorded it among many
other evidences of what their Circassian physiognomy betokened, a much
higher mental capability than the conceited Arab, and as superior as
ourselves to their negro neighbours the Shankalli. These three very
different people, represent three grades of intellectual power, which
may be expressed as genius, cunning, and simplicity, of which the
Dankalli constitute the type of the superior rank.

When I reflect upon the striking contrast exhibited in the very
different characters of the Dankalli and Shankalli people, the pressure
from without of observed facts incline me to a system of mankind-lore
different entirely from any yet advanced, but which it would be
presumption in me to put forward, until increasing years and further
observation give weight to the opinions of one who at present is merely
an humble, but zealous, inquirer after truth. Adapting myself therefore,
as much as possible to the generally received ideas upon the national
divisions of man at an early period, I am led to suppose that the
Dankalli are the remains of a once great and powerful people, the vices
of whom have outlived the period of their decline as a nation, and now
characterize their descendants in a situation where they are reduced to
a state of nature corresponding, except in these resulting consequences
of previous civilization, to that of the real child of uncultivated
nature, the happy, contented, good-natured Shankalli.


                             END OF VOL. I.

                                -------


             MacIntosh, Printer, Great New Street, London.


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 ● Transcriber’s Notes:
    ○ Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected.
    ○ Typographical errors were silently corrected.
    ○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only
      when a predominant form was found in this book.
    ○ Text that:
      was in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_).
    ○ The use of a caret (^) before a letter, or letters, shows that the
      following letter or letters was intended to be a superscript, as
      in S^t Bartholomew or 10^{th} Century.