[Illustration:

 From a Sketch by Duncan.          Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers.

    MODE OF EXECUTION AT DAHOMY. THE BLOOD DRINKER WAITING WITH HIS
                     CALABASH TO DRINK THE BLOOD.]




                                TRAVELS

                          IN WESTERN AFRICA,

                             1845 & 1846,

                              COMPRISING

                        A JOURNEY FROM WHYDAH,
                    THROUGH THE KINGDOM OF DAHOMEY,
                             TO ADOFOODIA,
                           IN THE INTERIOR.

                            BY JOHN DUNCAN,
             LATE OF THE FIRST LIFE GUARDS, AND ONE OF THE
                        LATE NIGER EXPEDITION.


                            IN TWO VOLUMES.
                               VOL. II.


                                LONDON:
                RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
                 Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.
                                 1847.




                                LONDON:
                 R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL.




CONTENTS OF VOL. II.


  CHAPTER I.

  The Zafidah Mountains--Zoogah--Reception by the Caboceer--Bamay--Its
  Market--Curiosity of the People--Population--The Davity
  Mountains--Daragow--Qualifications for a Caboceer--The River Zoa, or
  Lagos--Its wooded Banks--Ferry--Superstition--Water-lilies--The
  Plain set on fire to destroy the Shea-butter Tree, &c.--Valley of
  Dimodicea-takoo--Kootokpway--Gbowelley Mountain--Romantic
  Scenery--Hospitable Reception--The Mahees--Their total Defeat by the
  Dahomans--Ascent of the Mountain--Ruins of a Town--Skeletons of
  the Slain--Soil--Twisted Rock--Mineral Springs--Agbowa--Herds
  of Cattle--Paweea, its healthy Situation--Palaver with
  the Caboceer--Description of him--His Hospitality--The
  Markets--Guinea Corn--Natives good Farmers--Cloth Manufacture--Native
  Loom--Hardware--Hyæna Trap--Admiration
  of my Sword--Review of native Soldiers--Population.             PAGE 1


  CHAPTER II.

  The Caboceer’s Kindness to my Servant--Presents--Names of
  Caboceer, &c.--Granite Mountains--Tanks--The Adita--Soil--The
  Tawee--Mountains--Grain and Vegetables--The Zoglogbo
  Mountain--Reception by the Caboceer of Zoglogbo--Ascent
  of the Mountain--Cotton-trees--Mountain-pass--Singular
  Situation of the Town--Houses--Dahoman Political Agent--Probable
  Origin of the Mountain--Kpaloko Mountain--Ignorance,
  assumed or real, of the neighbouring Country by the
  Natives--The Dabadab Mountains--Superstition--Singular
  Method of conveying Cattle--Cruelty to the Brute Creation--Difficult
  Descent--Agriculture and Manufactures--Height of
  the Mountains--Death of Three Kings at Zoglogbo--Names of
  the Caboceer, &c.--Reception at Baffo--Costume of Caboceer
  and his Wife--His Principal Wives--Beautiful Birds--Gigantic
  Trees--Parasitical Plants--Singular Tree--Soil--Grain, Fruits,
  &c.--Cattle--Market-day, and Bustle of the Caboceer--Goods
  exposed for Sale--Rival Caboceers--Game--Pigeon-trap--Trial
  of Skill--Dog poisoned--Increasing Illness of my Servant--The
  Caboceer’s principal Cook                                           27


  CHAPTER III.

  The River Loto--Jokao Mountain--Jetta--Reception by the
  Caboceer--Ruins of the old Town of Kpaloko--Its curious Formation--Its
  former Importance on account of its Manufactures--Desolating
  Effects of War--Attachment of the Natives
  to particular Spots--Natural Tanks in the Mountains--Mount
  Koliko--Precipitous Granite Rock--Similarity to Scottish
  Scenery--The Nanamie--Laow, and the Laow Mountain--Kossieklanan
  Cascade--Tamargee Mountains--Mineral Spring--Mount
  Koglo--Insulting Conduct of the Caboceer--Whagba--Caboceer’s
  Hospitality--the Town--Inhabitants--Kindness
  of Athrimy, the Caboceer of Teo--War-Dance--Drunkenness--Names
  of the Caboceer, &c.--Game--Curious Pigeons--An
  Incident--Absurd Notion--Departure from Whagba--Names
  of the Caboceer, &c.--Hospitality of the Caboceers of Laow
  and Massey--Beautiful Valley--Impregnable Position--The
  Caboceer of Kpaloko--Grandeur of the Scene--Jeka Houssoo--The
  Dabadab Mountains--Difficulty in obtaining Information--Resolve
  to leave my Attendants--My Scheme--Departure--Zafoora--Soil,
  Grain, Trees, Plants, &c.--Shea-butter used for Lamps               55


  CHAPTER IV.

  Zafoora--Terror of the Natives--Cold Reception by the King--My
  Disappointment--Exorbitant Charge--Unpleasant Position--Palaver
  with the King--Scene of the Defeat of the
  Dahomans--Inhospitality--The Shea-butter, and other Trees--The
  Gwbasso--Prevalent Diseases--Soil--The Velvet
  Tamarind--Wearisome Journey--Akwaba--Cold Reception
  by the Caboceer--His Disappointment--Slave Trade--Hard
  Bargain--Manufacture of Indigo--Hardware--The Ziffa--King
  Chosee and his Cavalry--Their Hostile Attitude--Moment
  of Danger--Result of a Firm Demeanour--Respect
  shown by the King and Natives--Enter Koma with a Band of
  Music--Kind Reception--Introduction to the King’s Wives--Palaver
  with the King--The Niger known here as the Joleeba--Presents
  to the King--Babakanda--Exorbitant Charges for
  Provisions--Manufactures--Ginger, Rice, &c.--Seka--Bustle
  of the Caboceer--Slave Market--Trade Monopolized by the
  Caboceer--The Kolla-nut--Honey--Peto--Palaver with the
  Caboceer--Soil--Assofoodah--Hostile Reception--Palaver--Ridiculous
  Confusion--Inhospitality                                            80


  CHAPTER V.

  Inhospitality--Good Fortune--Soil--Mahomedan Town--Hymn
  of Welcome--The Natives, their Curiosity, &c.--Manufactures,
  &c.--The Crown-bird domesticated--Quampanissa--Market Day--Curiosity
  of the Natives--A Cranery--Market Constables, their
  Functions--Singular Musical Instrument--A Palaver with the
  Caboceer--Bidassoa--Mishap--A Bivouac--Reception by the Caboceer--Palm
  Wine freely taken by Mahomedans--Superstition of the Natives--Grain
  Stores--Manufactures--Buffaloes--Fruit Trees--Horses, their market
  price here--Cattle--Elephants--Manufactures--Game--Method
  of Drying Venison--Trees, Shrubs, Grasses, &c.--Kosow--Terror
  of the Native Females--Appearance of the Caboceer--Palaver--Presents
  to the Caboceer--His Harem--Swim across the River Ofo--Its Width,
  &c.--The Town of Kasso-Kano--Slave-Market--The Women--Neighbouring
  Hills--Iron--Antimony--Native System of smelting Ore--Native
  Furnace and Bellows--Roguery--Bivouac                              108


  CHAPTER VI.

  Peculiar Breed of Dogs--The Town of Zabakano--Market Day--Native
  Manufactures--Domestic Slaves--Palm Oil--Joleeba, or Niger--Horses
  make part of the Family--Pelican Nest--Pigeons--Kindness
  of the Gadadoo--Pigeon Shooting--Palaver
  with the Gadadoo--Population--Mounted Soldiers--Character
  of the Scenery--Grooba--Manufactures--The
  Town of Sagbo--Drilling System general here--Two sorts
  of Rice--Received by the Gadadoo with great Pomp--Palaver--Dromedary
  and Elephant--Prevalent Diseases--The
  Town of Jakee--Reception--Ancient Custom--Breakfast of
  the Natives--Manufactures--Terror of the Natives--Chalybeate
  Springs--The River Jenoo--The Land Tortoise--Interesting Panorama--The
  Town of Kallakandi--Reception by the Sheik--Palaver--Band of
  Musicians--Peculiar Instruments--Manufactures, &c.--Slave
  Market--Horses--Laws--Cruel Punishment--Population--Attack on a
  Boa-Constrictor--Manufactures--Deer--Method of Preserving Meat and
  Fish--Trap for Wild Animals--Town of Ongo--Reception by the
  Caboceer--Interesting Aspect of the Country                        136


  CHAPTER VII.

  Ongo--Weariness of my Attendants--Bivouac--Alarm of my
  Horse at the Neighbourhood of Wild Beasts--Terror of the
  Natives--Their Kindness--Establishment for Mahomedan
  Converts--Singular Custom--My Anxiety to find Terrasso-weea,
  who had been present at the Death of Mungo Park--Loss of my
  Sand-glass--Its Construction--Adofoodia--The Market-Place--Reception
  by the King--Interview with Terrasso-weea--Ceremony of welcoming
  me--His Stores--Discovery of an Old Acquaintance--Narrative of his
  Adventures--Terrasso-weea’s House--His Wives--Inquire of him
  Particulars of the Fate of Mungo Park--His Relation of the Death
  of that Intrepid Traveller--Terrasso-weea an Eye Witness of
  it--Park’s Property seized by the King--His Despotic Character--Flight
  of Terrasso-weea--My Palaver with the King--Hospitality
  of the Merchant--Information obtained respecting
  Timbuctoo--Market of Adofoodia                                     163


  CHAPTER VIII.

  Return to Baffo--Anxiety of my Caboceer--Rejoicings for my
  Return--Our March--Fine Plain--Plants--Neutral Ground--Natives
  of the Dassa Mountains--Agriculture--The Annagoos,
  dangerous Enemies--Poisoned Arrows--Poisonous Plants--Alarm
  of my Attendants on my plucking it--Fatal Effects of
  this Plant and Dread of it by the Natives--Number of the
  Natives Blind, supposed to be the result of it--Unsuccessful
  Attack on them by the Dahomans--Spiral Rocks--Hostile
  Demeanour of the Natives--They follow us with Menaces--Some
  Account of these Mountaineers and of the Dassa Mountains--The
  Blue Eagle--Cataracts--Beautiful Plain--One
  of my Cases of Rum broken by a Carrier--Twisted Marble of Variegated
  Colours--Path covered with Pepper-trees--Monkeys--Logazohy--Mayho’s
  Town--The Caboceer--The Merchants--Their Names--Carelessness with
  respect to Fire--Visit of the Caboceer                             190


  CHAPTER IX.

  Enter Logazohy in Regimentals--Received by the Caboceer,
  attended by his Soldiers--Singular Mode of Dancing--Native
  Jester--Description of the Town--Corn Mills--Presents from
  Fetish-women--Agriculture--Prevalent Diseases--A disgusting
  Case of Leprosy--Quarrel among my Carriers--My Illness--The
  Damadomy--Trees, Shrubs--The Agbado--Rapid Construction of a
  Suspension Bridge by my Dahoman Guards--Savalu--Reception by the
  Caboceer--Picturesque Situation of the Town--Caboceer’s House--His
  Wives--His Jester--My Illness                                      210


  CHAPTER X.

  Importance of the Caboceer of Savalu--Curiosity of the natives--State
  Constables--Military Dance--Introduction to the
  Fetish-women--Manufactures--Crane-shooting--Present by
  Fetish-women--Hospitality of the Caboceer--His Name and those of
  his Head Men--Wild Grapes--The Zoka--Shrubs--Swim
  across the Zoka--Mode of Transporting my Luggage--Difficulty
  in getting my Horse across--Fearlessness of the
  Dahoman Female Carriers--Bad Roads--Jallakoo--Reception
  by the Caboceer--My Illness--Appear in Regimentals before
  the Caboceer--Concern evinced on account of my Illness--Description
  of the Town--Agriculture--Caboceer’s Name and
  those of his Head Men--Presents to the Caboceer                    229


  CHAPTER XI.

  My continued Illness--The Koffo--The Langhbo--Bivouac--Keep
  Sentinel--Shea-butter Trees--Springs impregnated with
  Iron--Gijah--Poverty of the Caboceer--Hospitality of Atihoh,
  the Merchant--Doko--Met by the Avoga of Whydah--Etiquette
  with regard to the Time of entering a Town--Enter
  Abomey--My Servant Maurice takes to his Bed--Sudden
  Change in the Temperature--Visit to the King--His Gratification
  at my safe Return--My Conversation with his Majesty--His Views with
  regard to the Slave Trade--His Desire to cede Whydah to the English
  Government--Dictates a Letter to me to that effect--His costly
  Tobes--Singular Piece of Patch-Work                                253


  CHAPTER XII.

  Conversation with the King of Dahomey continued--Visit Coomassie,
  another Palace of the King--Great Number of Human
  Skulls--Skulls of Kings taken in Battle--Death-drums--Peculiarity
  of Skulls--Craniums of the Fellattahs--Skulls of
  Rival Kings--Criminal Case heard by the King, and his
  Award--Death of my Servant Maurice--Regret of the King--Christian
  Burial of my Servant--The King’s Kindness to me--My
  increasing Illness and Depression of Spirits--Method of Procuring
  Food in the Bush by the Dahoman Soldiers--My Alarm
  at the Dangerous State of my Wound--Make Preparations to amputate my
  Limb--My Recovery--My Last Conversation with the King--The King’s
  Presents to the Queen of England--Present from him to her Majesty of
  a Native Girl--Escorted out of Abomey, and Departure for
  Whydah--Absurd Custom--Canamina--Ahgrimah--My Pigeons from the Kong
  Mountains--Non-Arrival of some of my Carriers--Punishment
  awarded them for their Roguery on their Arrival                    273


  CHAPTER XIII.

  Akpway--Superstition of the Natives--Singular proceeding of
  my Bullock-Drivers--Arrival at Whydah--Kind Reception by
  Don Francisco de Suza--Kindness of all the Merchants--Parting
  Interview with M. de Suza--Sail for Cape Coast--Terror of the Mahee
  Girl (presented to the Queen) at the Roughness of the Sea--Arrival
  at Cape Coast--Kindness of Mr. Hutton--Dr. Lilley--Recover from my
  Fever--Kindness of the Wesleyan Missionaries--General Character of
  Africans--Hints with regard to Educating them--Observations on the
  Manners and Customs of the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah
  Countries--Enlightened Conduct of the King of Dahomey--The
  Dahomans--Trade of Dahomey--Paganism--The Mahees--The Kong
  Mountains--Sail for England                                        293




ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE SECOND VOLUME.


  MODE OF EXECUTION AT DAHOMEY                      _To face the Title._

  THE KONG MOUNTAINS, IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF LOGAZOHY            p. 219


  Wood Cuts.

  STATE CHAIR OF THE KING OF DAHOMEY                                 272

  THE KING’S STAFF                                                   272




                                TRAVELS

                                  IN

                            WESTERN AFRICA.




                              CHAPTER I.

 The Zafidah Mountains--Zoogah--Reception by the Caboceer--Bamay--Its
 Market--Curiosity of the People--Population--The Davity
 Mountains--Daragow--Qualifications for a Caboceer--The River Zoa,
 or Lagos--Its wooded Banks--Ferry--Superstition--Water-lilies--The
 Plain set on Fire to destroy the Shea-butter Tree, &c.--Valley
 of Dimodicea-takoo--Kootokpway--Gbowelley Mountain--Romantic
 Scenery--Hospitable Reception--The Mahees--Their total Defeat by
 the Dahomans--Ascent of the Mountain--Ruins of a Town--Skeletons
 of the Slain--Soil--Twisted Rock--Mineral Springs--Agbowa--Herds
 of Cattle--Paweea, its healthy Situation--Palaver with the
 Caboceer--Description of him--His Hospitality--The Markets--Guinea
 Corn--Natives good Farmers--Cloth Manufacture--Native
 Loom--Hardware--Hyæna Trap--Admiration of my Sword--Review of native
 Soldiers--Population.


July 11th.--We marched from Setta at 8 A.M., the first high land
bearing from the north side of the town N. 25° E., and named the
Zafidah mountains, distant about twelve miles. These mountains form
the western extremity of a range, running as far to the eastward as
the eye can reach. The path led directly to these mountains, and the
surrounding country was of a beautiful champaign character, studded at
considerable intervals with trees of various descriptions.

About half a mile from Setta, and journeying N.E., we crossed a fine
brook with a waterfall. The bed of the brook was of granite or quartz,
in immense detached blocks, the brook running eastward. Close to this
ford is a small kroom, called Zoogah; and although we had come so
short a distance the old patriarch or caboceer had provided plenty of
provisions for myself and private servants, with water and peto. The
poor man also presented me with several fowls. He told me that the
people of his small town had made a subscription and purchased these
fowls to offer to me, but were ashamed to make so trifling a present,
although they were anxious to show their good feeling towards the
King’s white stranger. He had told them what I had said at Setta to
the old woman (for he was present on that occasion) who presented me
with the two eggs. The kindness shown towards me now formed a perfect
contrast to that which I had experienced on the coast, where the
character and disposition of the people are vile. I gave the caboceer
some needles and thimbles, with directions to distribute them amongst
his people.

At four miles from this place we arrived at a small kroom of about
three hundred inhabitants, called Bamay. Here is a good market, which
is held weekly: it happened to be held on this day. The caboceer was
waiting in the market-place to receive us, in all his grandeur. Here
we had plenty of good water and provisions. The caboceer seemed highly
delighted at receiving a visit from a white man, and introduced me
to all his head men and principal wives. The people assembled in the
market-place all came running, pushing each other aside, with eager
curiosity to obtain a sight of me. In the market, which is shaded with
large trees, called by Europeans the umbrella-tree, they were selling
cloth of the country, of various colours in stripe; kao (saltpetre
in its original state) which is found in the mountains; different
sorts of grain produced in the country; tobacco, and pipes made at
Badagry, much resembling the head of the German pipe, but of red clay;
shalots and vegetables of various sorts for soups, and also manioc
or cassada-root ready cooked; with yams, plantains, and bananas,
oranges, limes, pine-apples, cashu nuts, kolla or goora nuts, indigo
and pepper; snuff is also sold here. Butcher’s meat is exposed for
sale early in the morning, but if it be not sold quickly it is cooked
in the market-place, to prevent putrefaction. Sheep and goats are sold
in the market, but, singular enough, I never saw a live bullock in the
market in any part of Africa, except at Tangiers. Fowls and eggs, and
agricultural implements of various descriptions, are also sold in all
the markets of any magnitude in this part of the country. Here the land
is well cultivated, and the crops are very good.

This kroom contains about six hundred inhabitants, who are evidently of
a different tribe to the people of Whydah. They are much better formed
and more nimble, and apparently more capable of enduring fatigue than
the natives on the coast. After distributing some small presents and
some rum to the caboceer, we resumed our journey.

At ten miles distant, and bearing (magnetic) E.S.E. the Davity
mountains are seen. These mountains form a range extending from east
to west, for a distance of about twelve miles, and are separated by a
narrow plain from another range of mountains, distant about two miles.
Both ranges are of conical or hogback character. At the distance of
four miles and a half we reached Daragow, a small kroom of about three
hundred inhabitants. Here we were welcomed by the caboceer, whose name
was Badykpwa, a fine stout old man of about fifty-five years of age.

The necessary qualifications for a caboceer in nearly all the kingdoms
and petty states of Western and Central Africa, are, that he should
be tall and stout; a beard is also indispensable. In many African
kingdoms, indeed, rank is estimated by the length and thickness of the
beard.

At six miles we reached the banks of the river Zoa, here forty yards
wide and seven feet deep. It is very muddy, for it is now the rainy
season. Large blocks of granite rise above the surface; the bed of the
river consists of a drab-coloured sand. The current is about two miles
per hour, running (magnetic) E.S.E. The banks are thirty feet deep,
and wooded on each bank with trees of gigantic size, whose enormous
roots extend in all directions. The greater number of these roots run
along the surface, in most cases crossing and re-crossing each other,
presenting the appearance of network. Their trunks are buttressed
all round, somewhat like the cotton-tree. At about eight feet from
the ground the buttresses, which so far are straight, break off in
different directions, crossing each other around the trunk, like a
number of large serpents wattled across each other. I did not observe
any trees of the same description at a distance from the rivers.

At this ferry we found a large canoe, which is left here for the use
of passengers. By order of the king of Dahomey, all traders carrying
goods are exempt from paying fees for crossing. Here we were detained
for some time, the canoe not being capable of conveying more than ten
persons without luggage at a time. I remained till all the party had
been ferried over, except the caboceer, or captain, and the other
principal officers of my suite. When we embarked, the captain begged me
to sit in the bottom of the canoe with my face towards the stern, so
that in crossing I was conveyed backwards. When I remonstrated with him
on the absurdity of doing so, he declared it to be “bad fetish” for any
great man in crossing water to look in the direction he is proceeding,
assuring me also that he was answerable for my safety, and that should
anything of an unpleasant nature happen to me he should be severely
punished, or if any thing should occur to my personal injury he should
lose his head. When I found the poor fellow, who was under these
restrictions, felt distressed at the observations I had made, I readily
assented to all his instructions and directions. My little horse swam
across, tied to the canoe, which materially assisted us in getting it
across.

This river is the same as the river Lagos at Badagry on the coast,
although here called the Zoa; but the same thing occurs all over Africa
where I have yet been. I am also informed that this same river has two
other distinct names, between this place and the place where it takes
the name of Lagos, which fully accounts for many supposed errors of our
travellers, as well as many errors in fact.

Our party having now all safely crossed the river, we immediately
resumed our journey amongst thickets of underwood scarcely passable,
the bushes having closed in and across the path, and joined over the
narrow sheep-track for such it really was. After travelling half a
mile, the path became more open, and we suddenly came upon a small lake
or pond, apparently of stagnant water, with the delicate water-lily
sprinkled over its surface. The sight of these beautiful flowers,
coming upon us so unexpectedly, created a very pleasing sensation, for
they were exactly the same as the water-lily of England.

The country now opened, and the path, clear of bush, became less
irksome to the traveller. I observed here that the grass had been
recently burnt, and inquiring of my guide the reason of it, was
informed that the whole surface was set on fire twice annually, to the
extent of many square miles. This is done for the double purpose of
destroying the reptiles and insects, as well as the decayed vegetable,
and also to annihilate the vegetative powers of the shea butter-tree,
which grows here in great abundance. At seven miles the path changed
its direction to the eastward. The land was level, but exhibited no
cultivation, nor any appearance of human habitation. At eight miles and
a half a valley opened upon us on a gentle slope, with a brook running
to the eastward.

At ten miles we crossed another valley of greater depth, called by my
guide, Dimodicea-takoo. On each side of the path were numerous aloes of
various descriptions. The aloes which have a mark on the leaves like a
partridge’s wing, were at this time in seed. My servant Maurice now
begun to complain very much of pain in his head and loins, and seemed
quite exhausted, although he had ridden my horse ever since I had
crossed the Zoa.

At twelve miles and a half we crossed another valley and brook, running
eastward, named Kootokpway. At thirteen miles and a half we reached a
stupendous mountain, called Gbowelley. Here the path suddenly changed
to NN.W., passing near to the base of the mountain, which forms the
western extremity of a range of less magnitude than this. At its foot,
and at its western extremity, is a small kroom, of about two hundred
inhabitants. It is very pleasantly situated on the plain or division
between Gbowelley and another chain, or rather crescent of mountains,
at a few miles farther to the westward, commanding a view of high
mountains to the northward. This sudden and delightful change seemed
to inspire all of us with fresh animation and spirits; for though we
had passed over several tracts of country partaking somewhat of the
character of hills, we were now almost on a sudden directly amidst a
number of stupendous mountains of great magnitude and singularity of
character, at once romantic and pleasing. The old caboceer was warned
of our approach by the noise of our drums, and was close to the path
awaiting our arrival with plenty of kankie, water, and peto for our
refreshment, which were very acceptable to all of us: for my own part,
I felt quite prepared for a hearty meal, without scrutinizing it. Here
the air felt refreshing and pure, and rushed in a current between the
mountains.

The old caboceer was of commanding figure, about five feet ten inches
in height, of pleasing countenance, and of quick and intelligent
manner. He was a native of Dahomey, and in great confidence with the
King. He took pleasure in boasting that he had seen me at Dahomey
during the custom or holiday, having been invited to the latter
place purposely to receive orders from his Majesty respecting my
treatment when I should arrive in the Mahee country. He had despatched
orderlies to every town occupied by a caboceer, to deliver the King’s
orders respecting me. It was now that my suppositions were realized
respecting the kindness shown me on my journey, viz. that the King had
given orders as to every particular, however trifling, respecting my
treatment and the presents I was to receive. The caboceer is named Hah,
and the old man was sent here from Dahomey at the time of its surrender
to the Dahomans.

The inhabitants of these mountains are called Mahees, and occupy
part of the country of that name. They made a determined resistance
against the Dahomans, and held out for seven moons, or months, having
possession of the mountains, and concealing themselves in the fissures
and caves, advancing and retreating in turn according to circumstances.
Though their numbers were great, yet the caution and skill of their
besiegers prevailed; for they had the advantage of good firearms, and
were able to avail themselves of the crops and cattle on the plains
at the base of the mountains. The Dahomans always choose the harvest
season for besieging a mountain; and although the steepness of these
mountains renders the ascent of a besieging army impossible, they
can so entirely blockade the occupants from all communication with
the plain, as soon either to starve them to death, or compel them to
surrender to their enemies, at discretion.

These mountaineers never think of reserving any of their corn or other
produce as stores, so that they invariably become an easy prey, though
in this country they can raise four crops in the year. The Mahees use
the bow and arrow, the King of Dahomey forbidding the transport of
firearms through his kingdom from the coast. The old caboceer and my
guide both informed me, that, during the seven months’ war in Gbowelley
and the neighbouring mountains to the eastward, four hundred caboceers
were killed, so that, allowing only a proportion of one hundred
individuals to each caboceer, at least forty thousand men must have
perished.

After a great deal of remonstrance and persuasion with the caboceer and
my captain, a promise was given that I should be allowed to examine the
mountain, but upon condition that I would take my shoes off, so that I
should incur less risk in climbing up the steep fissures, which are not
wide enough to admit of more than one man in width. The old caboceer
took the lead in ascending, giving me his hand the whole of the way up;
and my own caboceer kept close behind me, fearing lest I might slip.
In our ascent I observed many very large cotton-trees in the fissures,
with scarcely any soil to support them. Monkeys were very numerous
amongst the branches.

After gaining the top, in a sort of hollow or basin, on one side of
the dome-shaped summit, were the remains apparently of a large town.
This place was truly the picture of desolation, and the ravages of
war and famine presented themselves on all sides. Hundreds of human
skulls, of different sizes, were still to be seen; as also the skulls
of sheep, goats, and oxen. No doubt the latter named animals had been
used as food by the people whose remains we saw around us, the greater
part of whom had been starved to death rather than surrender. Many of
the soldiers of my guard had been on service during this siege, and
described the scene on ascending as of the most awful description.
The bodies of the dead in a putrid state were, it appears, mixed with
those who were still alive, but unable to move; many were wounded with
bullets, whose limbs were rotting off and covered with vermin;[1] and
the air was so pestiferous, that many of the Dahomans died from its
effects. The vultures tore the bodies of the poor wounded people, even
while they were yet alive. In many of the small fissures I observed the
remains of various domestic quadrupeds, together with human bones, very
probably carried there by the vulture or eagle, also natives of this
mountain, as well as the common fox, the panther, and large hyæna, or
patakoo, the name given to it by the natives.

This mountain is formed by horizontal beds about forty feet deep,
composed of gneiss or granite, each bed differing in quality from
another in the proportions of feltspar and mica. It rises at an angle
of 23°. All the mountains in this neighbourhood rise abruptly, and are
very steep,--in fact, on some sides, they are nearly perpendicular, the
plain in most cases being truly level to the very base of the mountains.

After descending, and returning to the place where I left my party
refreshing themselves, I found many of them in a partial state of
intoxication, from too freely indulging in the use of the peto. My poor
man Maurice, induced by a high state of fever, had attempted to allay
his thirst by copiously partaking of the same liquor. After giving some
small presents to the caboceer and principal people, we resumed our
journey. Just as we began our march, the rain descended in torrents.
Fortunately, while at Whydah, I had made myself a waterproof cloak,
which I now gave to my poor white man, who seemed a little revived
after his rest and the stimulating effects of the peto. He proposed
walking; but I knew that his revival was only temporary, and compelled
him to ride.

The path was now very deeply worn with the heavy rains, a stream
pouring down and washing all the soil from amongst the stones, leaving
only the iron stone or ore, which rendered walking very unpleasant.
The country was level, with the exception of a gentle declivity in
the direction in which we were now proceeding (NN.W.). The plain at
intervals was studded with large and small blocks of granite, some
round, others angular, but the foundation chiefly iron, which I have
observed in many places, only covered with a thin surface of vegetable
soil of a loamy nature. The surface of the iron is quite smooth, and
resembles our pavement of asphalte in London. In some places the iron
rock is entirely bare, and has every appearance of having run to its
own level while in a state of fusion.

The soil now changed to a rich sand and clay, very productive. I
observed some fine specimens of the twisted rock, but without any mica
in its composition, being more compact and solid than the composition
of the last-named mountain, and of a similar character to marble,
of blue, black, and white mixture. Here we were again met by the
caboceer and a number of his people, belonging to a small kroom at some
considerable distance from the path. They brought us plenty of kankie
and peto. We again stopped for some time, and made inquiry respecting
the neighbourhood, but I invariably found it impossible to obtain any
information respecting any other locality than their own immediate
vicinity, unless from some of the travelling merchants. After giving a
small present, which is always necessary on such occasions, we resumed
our journey. Close to the path were several mineral springs, powerfully
impregnated with iron. These springs are permanent. This country is
beautifully watered, having a great many springs of various qualities,
and numerous small brooks.

The rains are more regular here than near the coast, and thunder is
much less frequent. No doubt the extreme fertility of the soil in this
locality is attributable to the good supply of water from the regular
rains and springs, for four crops of corn I was told are obtained in
one year.

At nineteen miles and a half, bearing or direction of the path, we
changed to east, and crossed the brook Halee, which runs eastward, with
water sufficient to propel machinery of any ordinary power. At twenty
miles and a half, Mount Weesee, bearing west, and Lusee to the east.
At twenty-one miles we came upon a brook called Agbowa, with abundance
of water. Here the land is well cultivated. This is the first place in
Africa where I have observed the use of manure in agriculture. Some
Guinea corn, which is planted in drill, measured ten feet in height,
the maize about eight feet. Here are large herds of very fine cattle,
sheep, goats, and pigs; the Guinea fowl and common domestic fowl, as
well as partridges of great size, are also abundant. The turtle-dove
abounds here, as in most other places in the vicinity of towns and
villages.

At twenty-one miles and a half we arrived at Paweea, a very large
town, composed chiefly of low square huts, very neat and clean, with
several large markets. At the entrance of the town we were met by the
caboceer and his soldiers, part of whom were armed with muskets, and
accoutred in the same manner as my own guard; the rest were armed with
the bow and arrow. Paweea is well situated, and commands a view of the
surrounding country to a great distance. The atmosphere is much clearer
here than on the coast, or even at Abomey, so that the surrounding
mountains are very distinctly observable, and minor objects perfectly
seen at a very considerable distance, in comparison with the coast.

The caboceer, and his principal attendants and men of office, led us
into the principal market-place within the walls, which is held under
several large trees, covering about three quarters of an acre. Here we
seated ourselves, and the usual complimentary palaver of welcoming the
King’s stranger to the town of Paweea followed, and a large calabash
of water was offered to me, after it had been tasted. Then the rum was
passed round amongst all my people. After this indispensable ceremony
was concluded, we were directed to my lodgings, which were not far
distant.

The houses here are superior to those of many other towns, consequently
I had comfortable quarters for myself and people. The caboceer was a
fine, stout, square-built man, and very agreeable both in person and
manner, but with a very singularly-formed head above the temples,
narrowing acutely to the upper part of the skull. This gave his head
the appearance of having been squeezed or pressed. He seemed, however,
possessed of more than the ordinary sense of his countrymen, and
appeared to be in every way anxious to accommodate and please us.
Plenty of excellent provisions were soon brought to my apartments for
myself and people.

After we had finished our meal, the caboceer and several of the
principal members of his retinue came to spend an hour with us. Upon
this occasion I ordered some rum to be unpacked and distributed
amongst them. I was much gratified to find the caboceer enter so
fully into conversation, and make so many shrewd inquiries respecting
England, our manufactures and laws. He also seemed very communicative,
and willing to give me every information in his power respecting his
own country. He had been in command during the late war, and had of
course travelled a considerable distance beyond his own locality.

In this town peto is made entirely from the Guinea corn, not as on the
coast, from the maize or Indian corn. It is a very agreeable liquor,
and less sweet than that made from the Indian corn. After conversing
about two hours, the caboceer withdrew, to allow me to repose, which
was very agreeable to me, for I was very tired.

July 12th.--Early in the morning a messenger arrived from the caboceer
with his cane, which he presented to me with his master’s compliments,
desiring to know if I were quite well, and how I slept. Soon after the
messenger had left me, the caboceer came, preceding his commissariat
train, with an immense quantity of provision in large and small
calabashes, containing beef, pork, mutton, fowl, kankie, dabadab, and
a delicious dish made from a vegetable called occro, which when boiled
forms a gelatinous substance, and is very strengthening. This dish
is seasoned with palm oil and pepper. The provisions in all amounted
to twenty bushels. The good old caboceer of Gbowelley, whom we left
yesterday, sent some of his people after us this morning with a present
of one goat, three fowls, and a large calabash of kankie. This was
an acknowledgment for some presents, which I had given to him when
I left him. The carriers and messengers were quite delighted when I
presented each of them with some needles and thimbles, and returned
home rejoicing.

After breakfast, the caboceer wished me to walk round his town with
him--seeming anxious to gratify his people with a glimpse or sight of
the King’s stranger. This was just what I wished, as I was anxious to
acquire as much information as possible during the short time I had to
spare. Accordingly we visited the markets, which were well supplied
with provisions and articles of manufacture. I noticed amongst other
things some English chequered handkerchiefs. Native cloth, of various
quality and colours, was exposed for sale. Kaom, or saltpetre, is very
abundant in the Kong mountains, and is sold in the markets in all the
towns in the vicinity. It is used as medicine, and, as in England, is
much in requisition for cattle. Deer skins of various species are
sold in the market, also nuts of various sorts, as well as different
kinds of beans and peas. Ginger is very abundant in this neighbourhood,
and is sold at about eight-pence per Winchester bushel. The corn is
now nearly ripe, and some of the Guinea corn is as much as ten feet
high, so that the town is entirely concealed until the fence, which
invariably encloses the African towns on the plain, is passed. The
prickly bush at Abomey is planted like a double hedge round the town,
and is about ten yards wide, so that to a European it would seem a
matter of impossibility ever to break through it. The female soldiers
of Dahomey, however, as I have already mentioned, are capable of taking
one of these towns with apparently little trouble.

The owners of the numerous herds of cattle keep them in folds or pens
in the town, and the dung is preserved for manure. They are excellent
farmers, even in this remote part, where they never can have had
intercourse with any civilized being. They also manufacture very
good cloth, although their method is certainly tedious, the thread
being spun by the distaff, and their loom being of a very simple
construction, though upon the same principle as our linen looms in
England. Their web is necessarily narrow, not exceeding six inches. As
they have not yet found out the use of the shuttle, they merely hand
the reel through the shade from one side to the other in putting in the
weft; and instead of treadles to set the foot upon, they use two loops,
which are suspended from the treadles, into which they put their big
toes, which act upon the same principle as the treadle. The warp is not
rolled round a beam, as in our looms, but kept at its extreme length,
and the farther end is made fast to a large stone or heavy substance,
which is gradually drawn towards the weaver as he progresses in his
work.

Iron is very good in this neighbourhood, and is worked with
considerable skill. Their implements for agricultural purposes are much
superior to those manufactured nearer the coast. Sweet potatoes, yams,
and manioc or cassada, are cultivated here with great success.

The different articles sold in the market are nearly the same as I have
already mentioned at Whydah. I was amused upon being shown a patakoo or
large hyæna trap, from the simplicity of its construction. It is about
twenty feet long and two feet broad. The walls are thick and strong.
The trap is constructed upon the same principle as some of those used
in England for catching various sorts of vermin without destroying or
injuring them. A goat or young kid is placed in a cage in the trap, at
the farthest extremity from the entrance, and the hyæna, or panther,
(whichever may happen to pass,) is attracted by the bleating of the
kid. Upon entering the trap, it must step on a board with a string
attached, the other end of which is connected with a trigger which
suspends a sliding door. Upon the trigger being pulled, the sliding
door immediately drops and incloses the animal. It is then sometimes
maimed or baited with dogs.

Dinner-time had now arrived, and we returned to our quarters, when it
was soon afterwards brought in, and consisted of one large hog, three
goats, sixteen fowls, and a fine bullock, all which were served up in
excellent style, with plenty of dabadab and kankie, and round balls
of cakes made with meal and palm oil, baked or roasted together with
abundance of peto.

After dinner, the caboceer expressed a desire to see me in uniform,
and wished also that the ceremony of receiving me on entering his town
should be repeated as the King’s stranger, similar to my reception on
the previous evening. This requisition was not very agreeable to me, as
my white man Maurice was still very ill and in low spirits. However, I
prepared myself soon after dinner, and mounted my little charger. The
caboceer examined my horse and accoutrements very minutely, as also
my appointments. My sword, large knife, as they called it, excited
much admiration from its brightness, and above all, for its pliability
in bending and again resuming its original form. Their short swords
are made of iron, but have no spring in them. He next examined my
double-barrelled gun, and seemed much astonished at the percussion
caps, believing that the cap alone was also the charge, no doubt from
its loud report. After explaining it to him, he seemed much gratified.

We then proceeded out of the town, one half of my guard in front,
and the other in my rear, with the caboceer’s soldiers in rear of
the whole, one half of whom were armed with bows and arrows. After
proceeding about half a mile from the town into an open piece of ground
not planted with corn, the soldiers commenced a review and sham fight,
which, although it did not display any great complication of manœuvres,
was interesting from the quickness of their motions, and significant
gestures.

After the review was over, we returned to the market-place, when all my
soldiers commenced dancing. This was kept up alternately by my guard,
and the soldiers belonging to the town. In this country each caboceer
invariably keeps a clown or jester, many of whom are clever and amusing
on account of their ready wit. After the dance, which lasted about two
hours, I gave each of the party some rum, which is always expected
on such occasions. I then retired to my quarters, accompanied by the
caboceer, who seemed very anxious to maintain a friendly conversation,
evidently with a view to obtain information on general topics. He
remained till a late hour, when he retired to his home, leaving me once
more to enjoy my own reflections upon what I had seen, and to take
notes for my Journal.

The town of Paweea contains about sixteen thousand inhabitants. They
seem rather an industrious race in comparison with those near the
coast. Here, as well as in most other towns in the neighbourhood, the
mechanic is very much esteemed on account of his craft, but especially
the blacksmith, who in their own language is called a cunning man,
ranking next to the fetish-man or priest. The soil round this place is
a rich sandy loam, and the land well watered, consequently, the crops
are abundant, and the people are in the enjoyment of plenty, with but
little labour. They seem a very happy race, and well satisfied with
their present government and laws, which, previous to their subjection
to the King of Dahomey, were arbitrary and cruel in the extreme. This
town has two strong gates on the south-east and north-west sides, which
are closed at sunset, and guarded by soldiers or watchmen, who take
that duty in turn.


FOOTNOTES:

[1] This may appear an exaggeration, but I assure my readers, that I
have had a large quantity taken from a very severe wound I received
when in the Niger expedition. Dr. Williams and Dr. Thompson can
corroborate my assertion. The African fly blows live maggots instead of
eggs.




                              CHAPTER II.

 The Caboceer’s Kindness to my Servant--Presents--Names of
 Caboceer, &c.--Granite Mountains--Tanks--The Aditay--Soil--The
 Tawee--Mountains--Grain and Vegetables--The Zoglogbo
 Mountain--Reception by the Caboceer of Zoglogbo--Ascent of
 the Mountain--Cotton-trees--Mountain-pass--Singular Situation
 of the Town--Houses--Dahoman Political Agent--Probable Origin
 of the Mountain--Kpaloko Mountain--Ignorance, assumed or
 real, of the Neighbouring Country by the Natives--The Dabadab
 Mountains--Superstition--Singular Method of conveying Cattle--Cruelty
 to the Brute Creation--Difficult Descent--Agriculture and
 Manufactures--Height of the Mountains--Death of Three Kings at
 Zoglogbo--Names of the Caboceer, &c.--Reception at Baffo--Costume of
 Caboceer and his Wife--His Principal Wives--Beautiful Birds--Gigantic
 Trees--Parasitical Plants--Singular Tree--Soil--Grain, Fruits,
 &c.--Cattle--Market-day, and Bustle of the Caboceer--Goods exposed
 for Sale--Rival Caboceers--Game--Pigeon-trap--Trial of Skill--Dog
 poisoned--Increasing Illness of my Servant--The Caboceer’s principal
 Cook.


SUNDAY, July 13th.--Early in the morning the caboceer again sent me
plenty of provisions for myself and people, and showed great kindness
to Maurice, my white servant, using every means to induce him to
partake of some food, bringing amongst other dishes one made of
meal and water boiled together, sweetened with honey, and about the
consistence of thin gruel. This composition is used as we do tea in
England, but is of course much more substantial. I relished it very
much. My poor servant also partook of a considerable portion, but
he could not rally, having lost all the courage of which he had so
often boasted. The caboceer then desired us to proceed again to the
market-place, where we found two fine bullocks tied to a tree; one was
a present to the King of Dahomey, and the other to myself.

After going through the usual compliments on either side, we marched on
our journey till we came to the gates on the north-east of the town,
where several of the principal officers of the staff of the caboceer’s
household approached him, apparently in great anxiety, whispering
something to the caboceer. After this, the captain of my guard
communicated to me that the caboceer of Paweea begged that I would
honour himself and head men so far, as to enter their names in my book.
This is, in all places in the Dahoman kingdom, considered the highest
honour that can possibly be conferred upon them. To this request I
readily acceded; and in a short time had all their names registered in
my fetish-book, as they called it. After entering the names, as given
by the caboceer’s principal officer, I was very shrewdly asked to call
each individual by their name, as this was considered a puzzler for me;
but when they found that I called the roll correctly, they all seemed
surprised and delighted. A report to the same effect soon spread over
the greater part of the Mahee country. We now took our final departure
from the town of Paweea.

I here record the names of the head men according to my Journal:--

  Caboceer’s name     Terrasso-Weea.
  1st Head man        Adah.
  2d    do.           Chaaoulong.
  4th do.   Daowdie.
  5th do.             Avamagbadjo.
  6th Head Musician   Hawsoo-Agwee.[2]

The names of Mayho’s traders from Abomey, who treated myself and people
with provisions and peto at Paweea[3] were:--

  Tossau.
  Yakie.
  Bowka.
  Adassie.
  Howta.
  Kossau.
  Nookodoo.

We now passed through the gate, which is very strong. The walls of
the town are very thick, and are composed of reddish-coloured clay.
Close to the gates is the weekly market-place, held under several
large trees, which afford a grateful shade from the sun, as well as a
temporary protection from the rain. In the whole of the Mahee country
which I have yet visited, I find that the weekly markets are held
without the walls, to prevent as much as possible strangers entering
the town. The daily markets are seldom attended by any except their
own people, principally for a mutual exchange of goods of native
manufacture.

About nine A.M. we recommenced our journey, the path bearing N.E., and
at one mile N. 35° E. I noticed the chain of mountains running N.E.
and S.W., distant about four miles, and bearing north from Paweea.
The country round, however, is level, and studded with palm and
other trees. In the distance, the immense blocks of granite appeared
stratified, or divided into perpendicular sections, but upon a nearer
approach were found to be only marks left by the running down of the
water which accumulates in naturally formed basins or tanks on the
tops, apparently formed by the heavy rains acting powerfully on the
softer parts of the rock. From the excessive heat, this water soon
becomes foul, and the first succeeding rains cause an overflow, marking
the rock in dark streaks, and giving it the appearance I have stated.

At a mile and a half, bearing north, the soil became gravelly, studded
with trees. At two miles and a half, bearing again north, we crossed
the brook Aditay, running eastward, over a rocky bottom of blue
granite. This beautiful clear stream is, on an average, during the
season only two feet deep and six wide. It is a permanent stream,
capable of propelling machinery. At three miles and a half, the bearing
changed to E. N. E., with clear springs, impregnated with iron. The
temperature was 64° Fahrenheit. The land is still level, and the soil
of the dark colour of decayed vegetation. At five miles we crossed the
river Tawee, running east. This river is wider than the last, with a
gravelly bed; current less rapid, but also capable of turning machinery.

At seven miles I observed two mountains of considerable magnitude,
and very picturesque, distant from the path two miles, and bearing
N. 35° W. The land is beautifully cultivated along the foot of the
mountains. The drilling system is followed here with the corn, both in
the Dahoman and Mahee countries, and with all sorts of grain, as well
as with the sweet potato; but yams are planted in mounds about three
feet in height, of a conical form. In this part, however, the yams are
inferior generally to those grown on the coast, being what are called
water-yams, which are much softer than those found near Whydah. Four
different sorts of maize, or Indian corn, are grown here, the smallest
of which produces four crops in twelve months. The Guinea corn is also
very abundant, as well as another grain which grows about the same
height. This grain very much resembles mustard-seed.

At ten miles, we arrived at the foot of the mountain of Zoglogbo, a
splendid specimen, although not more than eighteen hundred feet high
on the south-east side. We halted at a small kroom at its foot, in the
market-place, where I changed my dress at the desire of the captain
of my guard, and put on my regimentals to receive the caboceer of
Zoglogbo. I had scarcely finished, when he arrived with his retinue.
He is a remarkably fine old man, apparently about sixty years of
age, and of a very venerable appearance. He is nearly six feet high,
and altogether of a noble and graceful figure. He approached within
about five yards of the place where I was seated, by the side of the
caboceer or captain of my guard, when, before speaking a word, he,
together with his head men and attendants, prostrated themselves,
throwing dust on their heads, and rubbing their arms with the same.
My own caboceer next prostrated himself, going through similar forms
of humility. Both parties afterwards remained on their knees, and
delivered the King’s message respecting the King’s stranger, as they
constantly called me. We then drank water with each other, previous to
the introduction of rum, of which our new and venerable friend Kpatchie
seemed very fond.

We now proceeded to ascend the mountain by a narrow fissure or
fracture nearly perpendicular, passing in our ascent many very large
cotton-trees, dispersed irregularly in the different crevices of the
rock. Numbers of large monkeys of different species were playing
amongst the boughs, but they were rather wild, being hunted for their
flesh, which is used here for food. The passage up the side of the
mountain is so narrow, as only to admit of one man passing at a time,
and very steep and difficult, on account of the many blocks of stone
which impede the ascent. It would have been impossible for me to ascend
with my shoes on, had not the old caboceer of the mountain walked in
front and given me his hand, and another person pushed at my back, as
occasion required.

After a somewhat toilsome though romantic journey, we arrived at the
gates of the town, which were of very thick planks of seven inches,
strongly barred with iron. After passing the gates the path was much
easier and not so steep, from the fissure not being filled so high, so
that the top of the fissure was far above the head, apparently above
twenty yards. After passing a little distance farther we came upon the
town, which is situated in a basin, or crater, formed in the centre of
the top of the mountain. Round the outer edge of this immense basin are
thrown tremendous blocks of various sizes, underneath which many houses
are built. Although these blocks are placed on each other in such a
tottering position, the houses in the centre of the town are erected
with considerable taste and regularity. The residences of the principal
merchants and influential members of the town are built in the form of
squares or quadrangles, which are occupied by their wives, which are
frequently very numerous, as well as their families. Their slaves also
occupy a part of the buildings, and are treated as well as their own
families. Indeed, as I have already observed, they work together in
cultivating the fields, or any other domestic employment.

The caboceer led us to a tolerably good house with every necessary
utensil for our use. Many presents of various descriptions were
brought to me, the old caboceer seeming much pleased at the kindness
of his people to the King’s stranger. His own kindness and attention
were unbounded, as well as those of his principal attendant, a young
man of rank from Dahomey, and the handsomest and most intelligent
African I had ever met. The King of Dahomey displays great sagacity
in sending Dahomans to the frontiers between the Mahees, Yarriba, and
Fellattahs. These men, although acting as principal attendants to
chiefs or caboceers of the subdued Mahees, are nothing more nor less
than political spies, the upper rank of such persons preventing any
combination or alliance dangerous to the power of the King of Dahomey,
although generally the Mahees seem very much pleased with their present
government and new laws.

After we had established ourselves in our quarters, we were supplied
with plenty of peto and clean water to drink, and the caboceer sat down
and enjoyed himself with us, often expressing his gratification at
being visited by the King’s stranger. In a short time large quantities
of provision were brought for us, and as usual ready cooked. Being
rather hungry, we made a pretty hearty meal, and afterwards were again
joined by the old caboceer, and several of the merchants or traders
from Abomey, who presented me with a large quantity of peto.

It now commenced a very heavy rain, consequently we were obliged
to content ourselves with remaining in the house, and conversing
upon different topics respecting England and Africa. I found while
conversing on the state and government of Dahomey, a certain
backwardness in their replies, unless through my own caboceer. Whether
this arose from a want of knowledge on the subject, or in compliance
with orders given to refer such questions to the caboceer of my guard,
I am unable to decide, but should suppose that this latter was the
fact. During the evening the caboceer partook too much of the peto and
rum, accompanied with large quantities of snuff, which he administered
alternately to his mouth and nose. Several persons were admitted and
introduced to me by him. My poor servant Maurice, although I had given
him my horse the whole of the day’s journey, was now quite knocked up,
and extremely low in spirits. After spending a tolerably comfortable
evening my friends departed, and I went to rest for the night.

July 14th.--Early in the morning the caboceer again visited me, to pay
me the customary morning compliment, and in about an hour after he
had retired breakfast was sent ready cooked, as usual, for myself and
soldiers. After breakfast we walked round the town, which is of great
beauty. From the quantities of fused iron-stone thrown indiscriminately
amongst the immense blocks of granite, it would appear that the centre
of the mountain had at some remote period been thrown up by some
volcanic irruption. Zoglogbo forms the N.E. extreme of a range of
mountains running N.E. and S.W. and is the highest of that range. The
grain of the granite is much larger than that of most of the rocks of
the other mountains. On the north-eastern extremity, and on the top of
the rock, are several tanks nearly filled with water, for it is now the
rainy season. These tanks are formed by nature, and are found to be
of great advantage, both for the people and the cattle, which, to my
great surprise, I found in and about the town, though the ascent from
the plain is so difficult, that I was obliged to leave my horse at the
bottom at one of the towns. The fracture, extending entirely across the
mountain, forms two passes, adjoining which is a town on each side. I
found upon inquiry, that a cow and bull had been carried up into the
mountain, and their offspring preserved, and that only very lately they
had begun to kill them. The cattle live upon leaves and branches of
different shrubs and stunted trees.

After examining the town we went to the highest pinnacle of Zoglogbo,
where we obtained a very pleasant view of the surrounding country.
At four miles distant, and bearing north-east, is seen the beautiful
and gigantic block of granite, two thousand five hundred feet high,
named Kpaloko; and as far as the eye can reach to the eastward are
three mountains of a conical form, all of which are of the same shape
and height. I asked the caboceer the name of these mountains, but he
denied all knowledge of them, either by name or otherwise. I then asked
several of my soldiers, from whom I received a similar reply. It seemed
to me very singular, that a man should live during his whole life so
near any remarkable spot without knowing something of the place, or
even its name; but from a communication I received from a Mahomedan
priest at Abomey, I was convinced that the distant mountains were the
Dabadab Mountains, from the resemblance of their shape to a dumpling
made from the Indian corn-meal so called. After measuring the height
by the boiling-point thermometer, we descended the rock, which was
quite smooth on the slope, so that it would be impossible for any
person to keep his footing with shoes on. But my friend Kpatchie paid
every attention to me, both during my ascent and descent, ordering one
of his principal attendants to take one of my arms, while he himself
took the other.

The people here are, like all other Africans, very superstitious. When
I was taking the bearings of the different mountains, and measuring the
distances, they seemed very uneasy, but as the King had given orders
that I was to be permitted to use my own discretion in all things,
it was useless to object to anything I thought proper to do. After
descending this steep mountain, we visited the principal market-place,
where the caboceer had ordered two fine bullocks to be brought; one
of them I was to deliver to the King as a present, and the other was
presented to myself; and the old caboceer forwarded both animals all
the way to Abomey, to be there for me on my return. The manner in
which they carry cattle is singular. They tie the feet of the animal
together, and run a long palm pole between the legs, and thus carry
the poor animals with their backs downwards, each end of the pole
resting on the head of the carriers. Six men are generally appointed
to carry one bullock, who relieve one another in turns. It would seem
impossible, to those unacquainted with African cattle, for two men to
carry one bullock; but it must be remembered that the African ox is
very small in comparison with English oxen.

The natives have no sympathy or feeling for the lower animals. They
throw the animal down when they get tired, with its back on the rough
gravel, so that if they have a long journey to perform, the flesh is
cut to the bone, and the death of the poor animal often ensues from
such usage.

After we had received the presents from the caboceer, several of the
merchants from Abomey presented me with goats and fowls, which kindness
I of course acknowledged by making presents of some trifling articles
of European manufacture. We now got ourselves ready for our march to
the town of Baffo, which is only a few miles distant; my excellent
old friend, Kpatchie, and his whole retinue, with a guard of honour,
accompanying me.

Our descent was by the fissure on the opposite side of the mountain
to that which we had ascended, and was equally difficult. However, my
friend kept close to me, rendering me every requisite assistance in our
perilous descent. At the foot of the mountain we entered another town
of considerable size. Here I found my horse, which had been brought
round to be in readiness for me. I remained some time in this town to
ascertain their system of agriculture and their manufactures, which I
found superior to any thing nearer the coast, except in Abomey and in
Whydah. They consist of cloth, iron, knit nightcaps, mats, baskets,
and a curious sort of girdle composed of different-coloured grasses,
neatly fringed at each end, resembling the sashes worn by our infantry
officers. All sorts of agricultural implements are also manufactured
here in a superior style, as likewise earthen pots and pipes.

The northernmost of the four conical mountains I have mentioned
measures from the top of Kpaloko 18° 7ʹ towards N.E. when the observer
is placed on the N.E. end of Zoglogbo, and Kpaloko bears N.E., distant
by observation from Zoglogbo 12°, and the back bearing of Gbowelley
S.E. Zoglogbo is much famed in the Mahee country for having been the
place of refuge for three moons of three kings, who led their combined
armies to the plains of Paweea, where they were met by the Dahoman
army, commanded by the King, who destroyed the whole of the combined
armies of the kingdoms of Eyo, or Yarriba, and Annagoo, and a kingdom
in the Mahee country in the adjoining Mountains of Kong.

These three kings declared war against the King of Dahomey, and
threatened also to make his head a balance to a distaff; but the army
of Dahomey, being well armed with muskets, although much inferior in
numbers, totally destroyed the combined armies; and the three kings
fled to Zoglogbo, where the Dahoman army followed them, and blockaded
the passes, so that all supplies were entirely cut off, and in three
moons the whole were compelled to surrender at discretion. These three
kings were beheaded, and their heads used for a similar purpose to that
which they had threatened the King of Dahomey with.

The head man of this town is Kpatchie’s principal attendant. Kpatchie
is caboceer, or king, of all the towns and krooms in and round the
mountain of Zoglogbo. The principal men’s names in Zoglogbo are as
follows:--

   1. Kpatchie.[4]
   2. Bleedjado.
   3. Annagoonoo.
   4. Dawie.
   5. Dyenyho.
   6. Dosou say Footoh.
   7. Zayso avarahoo.
   8. Bayo Bozway.
   9. Dogano.[5]
  10. Mapossay.[6]
  11. Awenoo.[7]
  12. Bokava.
  13. Dogwhay, the Caboceer’s wife.
  14. Adoo, the Caboceer’s son.

12 P.M.--We now continued our march from this town to Baffo, bearing
west from this place, and at three miles and a half arrived there. We
were met about half way by the caboceer of Baffo and his principal
wife, attended by a guard of honour, some of whom were armed with bows
and arrows, and others with muskets, with which they kept up a constant
irregular fire the whole of the way as we passed along. The caboceer
and his wife were covered with ornaments, principally of cowries, fixed
to leather, made of goatskin, and coloured blue and red, and about
the width of the reins of a riding bridle, so that they were equipped
similar to our Hussar officers’ horses. This caboceer is a very quick,
active, and shrewd man; proud and foppish, moreover, and very jealous
of my fine old friend, Kpatchie, who accompanied me to Baffo.

Shortly after our arrival in that town, we were, as usual, supplied
with provision, ready cooked, to the amount of eighty dishes, composed
of goats, pigs, and Guinea fowls. We were visited by the caboceer’s
principal wives, who drank each a glass of rum with us. This is
customary with all visitors of note or rank, but they always drink
water with each other first. My old friend Kpatchie remained with me
till he got intoxicated, when I advised him to return home, which
recommendation he immediately adopted.

In the evening I went out to observe the neighbourhood of the town,
taking my gun with me, when, just after passing through the gates, a
crow flew over us, which I shot. This caused great amusement, as the
natives of this place are not expert with the gun. The crows are very
large here, but of the same colour as the smaller ones on the coast,
black, with white breast. In this place I observed several beautiful
birds, many of which were on their passage, for nearly all the tropical
birds of Africa are migratory.

We visited another small town, about half a mile west of Baffo, very
pleasantly situated at the foot of the steep mountain of Logbo, the
rocks of which at a short distance appear to hang over the town. The
town of Baffo is similarly situated, and is ornamented with a great
variety of trees of gigantic size. The highest of these are the silk
cotton-trees; sycamore and a species of ash are also abundant here.
The acacias are very large, and at this season in full blossom. Many
beautiful parasitical plants hang from the large trees and rocks; and
the clematis and jessamine fill the air with their luxurious odour.
A tree resembling the drooping ash is very abundant, bearing a very
delicious fruit, like a yellow plum, which hang in bunches very similar
to the grape. The fruit is very delicious, though there is very little
flesh on the stone, which is porous, and yields to the bite of the
teeth like a piece of cork, but is considerably harder.

This is the first place in which I have yet been, since my journey
commenced, which reminds me of my native country. Here, for the first
time the large branches of the different trees are in gentle motion,
caused by the considerable current of air or light wind passing along
the steep mountain-side, forming a very agreeable contrast to what is
nearly always experienced in Central Africa, by the suffocating, heated
atmosphere, where no motion is perceptible except during a tornado. I
cannot express with what satisfaction and delight I sat me down on the
end of a ruined wall of a hut, to embrace the luxury to which I had for
many months been a stranger. Here solitude and loneliness even were
pleasing. In my lonely reverie, my recollections were carried unimpeded
over wastes of waters back to my native land, and perhaps to happier
days, before Care had ploughed her furrows on my brow.

Here in this beautiful though lonely spot, I could not help thinking
how much gratification I should have felt had any of my old friends
and associates in England been present, to whom I might have expressed
my gratification. My poor servant Maurice was now getting worse, and
obliged to lie down immediately he arrived at Baffo.

I found the land well cultivated, and the crops very luxuriant. The
Indian corn here produces a crop four times in the year; the Guinea
corn, twice only. Fruits of various descriptions are also abundant;
tamarinds of two different species, the velvet tamarind and long pod,
both grow in abundance: the yellow fig, of excellent flavour, and green
grapes are also plentiful. There are two species of cashu with fruit,
much larger than I have seen on the coast. The kolla-nut is abundant
here, as also several species of the under-ground nut, some about the
size of a walnut.

Cattle are of a superior breed here, being very square and clean
in the legs, but very small. Sheep and goats are considerably more
numerous than nearer the coast, but no horses are bred in this part of
the country, consequently the natives were very timid in approaching
my animal. The country around is well watered by some considerable
streams, which run eastward. The waters are of different qualities,
some streams being impregnated with iron, others with magnesia.
Pipe-clay is abundant in some of the valleys.

After two hours’ range in the neighbourhood of these two towns, I
returned with my party and found the caboceer of the town awaiting
us. He was, no doubt, anxious to taste again the contents of my
liquor-case, which, unfortunately, was but scantily stored, as far as
regards variety, but I had plenty of the common American trade rum,
which I brought with me from the coast. This is the only drink used by
the natives, excepting peto.

I gave the caboceer a good bumper or two, which he seemed to relish
very much. He seemed extremely anxious to excel in politeness; but he
assumed a little too much civility to reconcile me to him as an honest
man. However, I spent the evening tolerably comfortable till a late
hour, when we retired to rest. Maurice was still very ill, although the
fever was subdued, but now diarrhœa succeeded, and his spirits were
very low; I, therefore, made up my mind to remain a day or two till I
should see whether any alteration took place in him.

July 15th.--Early in the morning the caboceer came to pay his
morning compliments and to drink a glass of rum previous to sending
me breakfast. The old man seemed all in a bustle, this being the
principal market-day in Baffo; and he is allowed still to maintain an
ancient custom, which existed here previous to the subjection of the
Mahee country, of monopolizing the whole trade of the place to himself.
In consequence of this, he was busily employed in watching his young
wives, who kept stalls, or hawked their goods in the market-place, many
of whom I believe possessed very little personal interest in their
divided spouse’s profits, but, in order to render theft impracticable,
he placed all his youngest wives in the most conspicuous parts of the
market-place, and himself occupied a position which commanded a view
of the whole scene. The older or more trustworthy wives were permitted
to use their own discretion as to their choice of carrying their goods
round the different parts of the town. The principal or favourite wives
dole out the portions of goods allotted to each individual to sell, but
it often occurs that they are sold at even a higher price than designed
by the owner, particularly when strangers are the purchasers. Of course
the extra charge is appropriated by the individual seller.

The articles sold in the market are much the same as those exposed for
sale in Whydah, which I have previously enumerated, with the exception
of European manufactured goods: these, however, are very limited,
tobacco and rum being the principal articles. In addition to these, I
only observed a few very common plaid cotton handkerchiefs. Good cloth
is manufactured here, and sold in the market, but manufacture even
seems to be monopolized by the caboceer of Baffo, for, on my treating
with a weaver for the purchase of a piece of cloth, he was obliged to
consult the caboceer whether he might dispose of it at the price I
offered him, which, after some higgling, was agreed to. The whole of
the inhabitants of this town are literally slaves, but live in peace
and plenty ever since their subjection to the King of Dahomey.

About eleven o’clock, my friend, Kpatchie, and his young Dahoman
attendant, came again to visit me, bringing with him about thirty
persons, carrying provisions for myself and people. This act of
kindness proceeded, undoubtedly, from his own generosity, independent
of the order of the King. The old gentleman seemed delighted at having
an opportunity of testifying his good feelings towards a white man, but
this kindness on his part seemed to create a considerable degree of
jealousy between the two caboceers, Agassadoo and Kpatchie, so much so
that high words ensued.

Although no preparation was made for our dinner, for I had remained at
Baffo one day longer than was expected by the King, I was amused with
the contemptuous manner exhibited towards Agassadoo by my venerable
friend. He begged me not to rely on any of his (Agassadoo’s) promises,
as he was only a man of words, and of too much palaver to be good. This
certainly was correct, but the wordy war soon terminated, Kpatchie
being senior, and principal caboceer of the range of mountains on which
Baffo is situated.

A reconciliation having been effected, I honoured them both by inviting
them to dine with me, which was the first time I had ever done so since
I had left Abomey. This seemed to give great satisfaction to both
parties, and their differences seemed mutually forgotten. After dinner
we went out shooting. I shot several birds of various descriptions on
the top of the steep rock, which almost overhangs Baffo. I observed
a great number of small animals, somewhat like the rabbits of Great
Britain. When I expressed a great wish to ascend the pass, which is
very steep and dangerous, I was strongly dissuaded from attempting it,
it being declared to be quite impracticable, except to some of the most
daring of the huntsmen. I was consequently obliged to satisfy myself
with remaining at the foot to pursue my sport.

Game is very plentiful here, such as Guinea-fowl of various species,
some jet-black and very large, others of a lighter colour, some
horned and others not. Partridges are large and abundant; the male
of one species is armed with four spurs, two upon each leg, nearly
three-quarters of an inch apart, and in length according to their age.
Pigeons of various sorts are also abundant, but the most numerous
is the turtle-dove, which is here more domesticated than any other,
except the common house-pigeon. The turtle-doves always take up their
resting-place in towns or villages. The wood-pigeon is also abundant,
but very wild. I observed another species, of a green and yellow
colour, with a red ring round the neck about half an inch in diameter,
and without feathers, the surface much resembling morocco leather. The
natives have a very efficient mode of trapping these pigeons.

A little circumstance took place here, perhaps not unworthy of
narration, respecting one of the last-named pigeons. This pigeon
had been caught in a trap, and one of my young soldiers, anxious to
elevate himself in my estimation, caught a pigeon, and, in order to
make it appear that he had shot it, destroyed part of the head before
presenting it to me, but of course I was quite aware that this was
not true. This was the same young man who had on a former occasion,
as I have previously related, procured a Guinea-fowl, and made a
hole through the neck, declaring that, although he always used ball,
he shot his birds through the neck. I now set him a task which gave
him a damper. Taking a small piece of white paper, wetting it, and
sticking it on the side of a rock, at twenty yards distance, I asked
him to shoot at that mark; which he did, but it was nowhere near the
paper. This very much chagrined not only himself, but the whole of his
companions, who declared that the bullet had tumbled out before firing.
I determined, however, to prove to him that it was not so easy a
matter as he supposed to deceive an Englishman, and therefore gave him
another chance, by shooting at the same piece of paper stuck against
a palm-tree. This he also missed, as well as the tree. The caboceer
seemed much annoyed lest I should consider the huntsman a fair specimen
of their skill. He therefore desired me to shoot, thinking probably
that I might be an equally bad shot; but I was fortunate enough to
hit part of the paper, and of course the bullet entered the tree,
which created some considerable surprise amongst the soldiers who
accompanied me.

Upon our return to the town we found a fine dog lying on the ground,
apparently just killed. He was very much swollen, particularly one of
his fore-legs. I made inquiry of the owner respecting the cause of
its death, and was told that, while visiting his farm at some short
distance on the plain, a large snake came in contact with the dog, and
in the conflict bit the dog in the fore-arm. The venom caused death in
about a quarter of an hour afterwards. The dog died within two hundred
yards of its home. Serpents are said to be very numerous and extremely
venomous here, but I have not seen any of the serpent tribe since I
left Whydah.

Upon my return to my quarters I found my servant Maurice apparently
worse, and in very low spirits. He had hitherto expressed a wish not to
be left, but to proceed with me on my journey. This, of course, in his
present state, it would have been folly to allow him to do. I proposed,
therefore, that if he were not much better in the morning, to leave him
a few days, till I returned from the town of Whagba, for which place
I intended to march. This the poor fellow consented to. He was now
suffering much from dysentery, and his illness had every appearance of
terminating fatally.

In the evening I was visited by one of the caboceer’s wives, who
was introduced to me as the principal cook, and who had presided at
the cooking of my food. This, of course, was a very broad hint that
I should not forget her when distributing presents. Several of the
caboceer’s younger wives, who seemed very anxious to flirt when an
opportunity presented itself, came to make inquiry after the health
of my servant, but their real motive was to obtain a glass of rum,
for they knew that I had arranged to depart on the following morning.
The caboceer, Agassadoo, importuned for every thing that met his eye,
though he took special care not to do so when the caboceer or captain
of my guard was present.


FOOTNOTES:

[2] I found this man was a native of Houssa, which accounts for his
surname.

[3] The inhabitants of Paweea are about three thousand.

[4] Caboceer.

[5] Brother to the caboceer.

[6] Commander-in-chief of the soldiers.

[7] Second in command of the soldiers.




                             CHAPTER III.

 The River Loto--Jokao Mountain--Jetta--Reception by the
 Caboceer--Ruins of the old Town of Kpaloko--Its curious
 Formation--Its former Importance on account of its
 Manufactures--Desolating Effects of War--Attachment of the Natives
 to particular Spots--Natural Tanks in the Mountains--Mount
 Koliko--Precipitous Granite Rock--Similarity to Scottish
 Scenery--The Nanamie--Laow, and the Laow Mountain--Kossieklanan
 Cascade--Tamargee Mountains--Mineral Spring--Mount Koglo--Insulting
 Conduct of the Caboceer--Whagba--Caboceer’s Hospitality--The
 Town--Inhabitants--Kindness of Athrimy, the Caboceer of
 Teo--War-Dance--Drunkenness--Names of the Caboceer, &c.--Game--Curious
 Pigeons--An Incident--Absurd Notion--Departure from Whagba--Names
 of the Caboceer, &c.--Hospitality of the Caboceers of Laow and
 Massey--Beautiful Valley--Impregnable Position--The Caboceer
 of Kpaloko--Grandeur of the Scene--Jeka Houssoo--The Dabadab
 Mountains--Difficulty in obtaining Information--Resolve to leave my
 Attendants--My Scheme--Departure--Zafoora--Soil, Grain, Trees, Plants,
 &c.--Shea-Butter used for Lamps.


July 18th.--Early in the morning we got ready for our march to Whagba.
I found my old friend Kpatchie waiting with an extra guard of one
hundred men, and to my surprise found a number of the Baffo soldiers
ready to escort me some distance from the town. We marched out with
the band playing one of the favourite Dahoman airs, which seemed to
me to have more of discord than music about it. On passing the gates,
the path bears NN.E. across a level plain. After two miles we crossed
the river Loto, a fine clear stream, running east; and at two miles
and a half, and one hundred yards to the right of the path, a spot was
pointed out to me where the King of Dahomey and his army had encamped
for the space of three months, during the war with the King of Kpaloko,
who, after a siege which lasted all that time, was compelled to
surrender at discretion.

The plain here is well cultivated. Bearing eastward, about eight miles
distant, the mountain of Jokao is seen; and on the left, about two
miles and a half distant, is a large town, named Jetta, situated on a
mountain of that name. At three miles and a half we were met by the
caboceer of Jetta. We found him and his soldiers awaiting our arrival
in a market-place, through which we had to pass. This market-place,
like nearly all others, is shaded with large trees. The caboceer
received us with great courtesy, his guard keeping up an irregular fire
of musketry. After the usual compliments between both parties, we were
presented with plenty of provisions brought from their own town. Having
refreshed ourselves, I presented the caboceer and several of his head
men with some trifling articles of hardware. Jetta is between the two
mountains, Jetta and Kpaloko. The longitudinal form of these mountains
is north and south.

At four miles, the path changing to east, we crossed a fine brook,
named Awadakoo, the small tributary streams of which were strongly
impregnated with iron. In the valley we found numerous blocks of
pebbles combined together with iron. At five miles we passed through
the ruins of the ancient town of Kpaloko, where the King was killed, as
well as the King of Eyo, who succeeded the former king of that country,
who had brought his army to the plains of Paweea, where his army was
destroyed, as I have before mentioned. Kpaloko is of very curious
formation, being nearly perpendicular at the sides, and the top like
an acute arch. This mountain seems formed of a succession of concave
scales, varying in thickness from twenty to thirty feet, and placed one
upon another. These scales are formed of very hard granite of large
grain. Several of these scales had parted near the centre of the top
longitudinally, and slipped from their position down the side of the
mountain, resting with their lower edges on the ground, and forming
buttresses of five hundred feet long, and seventy feet high, leaving
a space of about forty-eight feet from the foot of the mountain, or
block, to the foot of the buttress.

On examining the ruins of this large town, I found not one hut left
standing, showing the sad and desolating effects of war. This place
had once the character of being the greatest manufacturing town in
the kingdom of Mahee, extending her commerce through nearly the whole
of that country, as well as that of Annagoo. Now all was silent as
death--not a note or flutter even of any thing of the winged tribe was
heard. The intense heat of the sun, without a breath of air, rendered
the scene truly mournful and solitary. I could not help reflecting
upon the natural attachment of the natives to particular spots, for
although this town had been destroyed for years, the surviving natives
still cultivated the gardens and the land formerly occupied by their
ancestors and relatives. This circumstance is, however, little to be
wondered at, for each house is invariably the family sepulchre.

The path now changed its bearing to N.E. Being the rainy season, the
ground was very moist. And there are many good and permanent springs,
whose streams run longitudinally with the mountain, from which the
natives of the towns, now built on the top of the mountain, receive
their supplies when their tanks which are formed by nature on the top
of the mountain are exhausted. At six miles the path ran NN.E., with
rock on both sides, Mount Koliko, and the town of the same name, being
close on our left. The caboceer met us in the path with provision and
water, as well as some peto for our refreshment.

After resting a quarter of an hour, we again proceeded on our march
along the side of a smooth granite rock, so much on the dip or
incline that my horse could scarcely keep his footing, though he was
very sure-footed. After passing about a quarter of a mile over this
dangerous road, the path ran along a narrow and small stream of clear
water, with pebbly bottom. This reminded me of some of my native
glens, the haunts of my boyhood. The rich luxuriant shrubs and trees
intermingled overhead, forming festoons, woven together by various
running plants of the sweetest odour, rendered this part of the path
truly delightful and refreshing.

At seven miles the path changed to N. 60° W., and we crossed a rapid
stream, named Nanamie, running N. At seven miles and a half we passed
over a granite mountain, with good spring wells on the top. At eight
miles the valley became narrow, with high mountains on each side of
the path. The mountain on the left is named Laow, as is also the
town. The caboceer, with his attendants and soldiers, met us in the
path, with plenty of provisions and water, as well as rum, of which
my people drank very freely. Having presented this caboceer with some
trinkets and a flask of rum, we resumed our journey. The character of
this mountain differs considerably from those in the neighbourhood,
being divided into different sections of various thickness and strata,
running N.E. and S.W., at a dip of 12° towards E. by S.

At eight miles and a half, NN.W., and at nine miles, NN.E., I noticed
a fine brook and cascade, running south, named Kossieklanan; and on
the east side, I observed a mountain, named Tamargee, of considerable
magnitude. Here the palm and shea butter-tree grow in great abundance,
but the butter-trees have all undergone the operation of scorching. At
ten miles and a half I observed a chain of mountains, running north and
south, distant from the path two miles; the northernmost of these is
named Sawee.

On these mountains is a sort of yellow and very fine grass, equal to
the finest needles, and about two feet high, growing in tufts similar
to rushes. It appears at a distance as if the herbage were entirely
scorched, being about the colour of yellow ochre. A shrub of the same
colour grows here, about ten feet high, with leaves placed on the tree
very similarly to our box, but about three times the length.

At twelve miles and a half, and distant from the path two miles to the
right, are the mountains Lofo and Apakissa; and at thirteen miles, a
mountain, named Bowha, close on the right of the path. Here is in the
path a very fine spring, at the temperature of 62°, the water quite
clear and less impregnated with iron than most others.

At fifteen miles Mount Koglo rose before us, eighteen hundred feet
high, close to the left of the path, with a very large town on the
top. Here we were not met by the caboceer or any of his people, as
in other towns belonging to the King of Dahomey, but found they had
been making bad fetish, as the natives term it, in the path. They had
killed a white fowl and filled an earthen pot with palm-oil and some
other composition, sticking the feathers into this composition and
placing the pot in the path. This is considered by them to be one of
the greatest insults which can be offered. However, I endeavoured to
convince them that their bad fetish was of no avail. Still my people
seemed rather alarmed in passing it, turning some distance out of the
path.

A little farther on, we came to a market-place, attended only by some
few women selling peto; but as these people were from the town of
Koglo, the caboceer gave strict injunctions that none of our party
should purchase anything. A messenger was immediately despatched to
Abomey to inform the King of the conduct of the caboceer of Koglo, who,
no doubt, will pay dearly for his bad fetish to the King’s stranger;
they are sure to be invaded next year. They were defeated this year,
but since that period the caboceer died, and his successor denies his
allegiance to the King of Dahomey; but he will no doubt be glad to
succumb, after a severe chastisement. At seventeen miles we came upon
a brook named Lothay, running east, and a fine extensive plain to the
eastward.

At twenty miles we reached the beautiful town of Whagba. About a mile
and a half from the town we were met by the fine venerable caboceer and
his attendants, who paid us every mark of respect, and drank water and
then rum with us, his soldiers keeping up a continual fire, and beating
their drums the whole distance into the town. The town of Whagba is
fenced round with the prickly bush, which forms a hedge of about twenty
yards wide. After passing through this outer fence, and about one
hundred yards distant, is another wall, with strong gates, outside of
which is the general market-place for strangers. Immediately inside
is the principal town-market, which is held twice every week. Inside
is another wall of hard clay, or swish, with still stronger gates.
Upon entering the town I was met by ten of the trading merchants from
Abomey, who gave me a hearty welcome.

The natives of this town seem a very mild and are apparently a more
independent people, being less servile to their caboceer, than in any
of the Mahee towns I have yet visited, although the caboceer seems much
revered and esteemed. In the town I found excellent accommodation, the
caboceer having some time previously to my arrival been made aware of
my intention to visit him, consequently no trouble was spared to make
me comfortable when I arrived. A fine house had been run up in the
space of a fortnight for my accommodation, built square, and of two
stories, with a ladder outside to ascend to the second story, quite
unusual in any other towns except Abomey. The walls were yet a little
damp, though the heat is so great.

Soon after my arrival, we were, as usual, supplied with plenty
of provisions and also abundance of peto. After having refreshed
ourselves, we were honoured by a visit from the caboceer and his
retinue, with whom we entered freely into conversation. It appeared
that he was a great favourite with the King of Dahomey, consequently he
was vested with considerable power beyond what is generally allowed to
any of the caboceers I had yet visited, except Kpatchie, of Zoglogbo.
The caboceer of Whagba was like a petty king or ruler over several
minor towns in the neighbourhood, within a circle of twenty miles. He
was also allowed to govern his town at his own discretion as far as
regards their domestic laws or customs, but their criminal laws were
strictly Dahoman.

Sunday, July 20th.--A caboceer arrived from a town named Teo, at some
distance from Whagba, named Athrimy. He brought several people with
him, both head men and slaves, and with them about ten bushels of ready
cooked provisions, and also one fine bull for the King of Dahomey,
and another for myself. The caboceer, Athrimy, seemed much gratified
in having an opportunity of shewing his loyalty to his sovereign by
presenting me, the King’s stranger, and my people, with provisions
gratis; although, of course, I gave them several articles of European
manufacture in return.

This caboceer, as well as the ruler of Whagba, seemed to take
great pleasure in making inquiries respecting England, our gracious
sovereign, and our laws. They remained in conversation with me full
three hours, their principal men being also present. Both of them
seemed amused and astonished. After our palaver was finished, the
guard of soldiers who accompanied Athrimy, musketeers and bowmen, all
commenced their native war-dance. Then my Dahoman guards performed
their dance. Afterwards, as is customary on such occasions, I presented
the caboceers and head men with some rum, which at all times is very
readily accepted; although in Dahomey a drunkard is much despised, and
even punished, unless the party should be one of the King’s jesters, of
whom his Majesty keeps a considerable number.

Many of the caboceers in the Mahee country, as well as on the coast,
consider the greatest proof of their riches and power to consist in
their having the means of getting intoxicated at least once every day.
The caboceer Athrimy had heard of my entering the names of some of the
caboceers and head men of Dahomey in my book, and requested, as a great
favour, that his own name and those of his head men might be inserted
in my book, deeming this to be the highest honour which could possibly
be conferred upon them. As the enumeration of the names, therefore,
may be of service to future travellers (since nothing will secure the
confidence and friendship of these Africans more surely than the fact
of a stranger visiting their country and inquiring for any of them), I
here set them down.

After entering the names of the principals they determined upon
giving me a puzzler, by desiring me to call the roll of the names I
had already entered, and when each name had been called, and each
individual had answered to his name, they all seemed quite amazed,
expressing their conviction that white man was equal to their great
fetish in knowledge and power. Their names were as follows:--

  1. Kpaloo.
  2. Damossee.
  3. Kawpnhoo.
  4. Chassoo.
  5. Koothay.
  6. Bosa.
  7. Kossau Maboo.
  8. Semanoo.
  9. Koyakway.
  10. Dadamy.[8]
  11. Baadoo.
  12. Dyahoo.
  13. Wayhee, the caboceer’s principal or favourite wife.

Soon after this ceremony my friends departed, returning me a thousand
thanks for the presents which I had given them, and hoping that I would
soon again visit their country.

I then went out to visit the various krooms in the vicinity of Whagba,
which were numerous. I took my gun with me, as partridges are very
plentiful here, and very large. My people were very much delighted
at seeing me shoot the first one flying. The body of the partridge
is nearly as heavy as the English pheasant. The turtle-dove is also
abundant here, as also the wood-pigeon (exactly similar to those
in England,) and the house-pigeon. Many other sorts of pigeons are
also found here of various plumage--green body, yellow and blueish
green wings, with a red circle round the eyes. The crown-bird is here
domesticated, and the vulture and eagle are also abundant, as well as
several other birds of prey. I here observed several bulbous plants,
bearing a beautiful flower, not before noticed in my travels.

An incident took place during my absence, which, although absurd, may
be worthy of notice here, since it serves to show the ridiculous ideas
and manners of the natives. During my temporary absence from the town,
the man who had charge of my horse had been persuaded to accept a bribe
from the caboceer to allow my horse, which was entire, to serve a very
handsome mare, presented to the caboceer by the King of Dahomey. As
soon as the mare was brought near my horse he became unruly and broke
from his fastening and by some means tore or pulled off one of his
shoes. This caused me to inquire by what means it occurred, believing
that some of my people had been beating it, but every one denied all
knowledge of the shoe being off. I then declared that I would punish
the man in charge of my horse for neglect of duty, knowing that if he
were at his post he must be aware by what means my horse had lost his
shoe. This threat had the desired effect, and the man openly confessed
that he had been tempted by the reward of one head of cowries,[9]
(which at this place is forty-seven strings, each string containing
thirty-three cowries,) or one dollar, (in this part of the country of
more value than five sovereigns would be in England,) to allow it,
although it is believed amongst these uncivilized beings that he is
thus entirely spoiled during the rest of his life, and is rendered
quite unfit to carry a rider after. This shows plainly the absence
of principle, for this man who had charge of my horse was a captured
slave, and had received a good education at the government school at
Sierra Leone; but passion so far overcame principle, that for one
dollar he would sacrifice my horse.

The caboceer, who was soon made aware of my having learned all the
facts of the case, became alarmed, naturally supposing that I should
feel much annoyed at such conduct, and dreading lest I should make the
case known to the King of Dahomey. He was so much alarmed, indeed,
that he would not venture into my presence during the whole of the
afternoon, but several of his messengers visited me, requesting to
know if I had every thing I wanted, and informing me that it was their
master’s wish I should be furnished with any thing I might require.
In the evening the caboceer and several of his head men and principal
wives, and also several of his daughters, ventured to visit me. Upon
approaching me, the old man in front, the whole party prostrated
themselves on the ground, throwing dust over their heads and shoulders,
until I had assured the caboceer of my forgiveness, at the same time
telling him that had he asked me, he should have been welcome to the
use of my horse. I also remonstrated with him upon the absurd notion
entertained by them. To my no small surprise, the old man presented
me with his youngest daughter for a wife, who was a mulatto, telling
me she would be useful to wash my clothes. Upon my declining his
offer, the old man seemed rather offended, until I informed him that
as African wives were considered by their husbands to be also their
slaves, I could not, without a breach of the laws of my own country,
accept his offer. I told him, however, that I should make my proffered
wife a present of a few small cotton handkerchiefs, and when I again
passed through his country I should call for his daughter. This
reconciled the old man, and I believe gave his favourite child much
more satisfaction than leaving for ever her home to become a white
man’s slave.

The old man furnished myself and people with an excellent supper and
plenty of peto. I invited him to spend the evening with me, and partake
of a glass of grog, which he very willingly accepted, and we parted for
the night the best of friends.

July 21st.--Early in the morning, a messenger came to my house to
inquire after my health, and about an hour afterwards an excellent
breakfast was sent for myself and people. I had to put on the cast shoe
on my horse, which was a difficult task, as I had not proper nails, and
the hoofs of the African horses are so hard that a nail can scarcely
be driven without the assistance of a brad-awl. Fortunately, however, I
had a few common nails and a shoemaker’s hammer, so that by beating the
nails a little thinner, and using the awl, I managed to fix the shoe,
and prepared for my journey back to Baffo. The caboceer had ordered all
his soldiers to prepare to accompany me as a sort of convoy out of the
town.

All being arranged, the old man, and his numerous family and principal
people, led the procession, and we passed out of the gates of the
town, when immediately a running fire was commenced by the soldiers
of Whagba. After accompanying me about a mile, the old man signified
his intention of returning, and coming close to my horse he prostrated
himself and bade me farewell; but I begged that he would dispense with
such humiliation, assuring him that a white man did not require it.
He expressed his high sense of the honour conferred upon him by the
King sending his white stranger to visit him. He said he had heard
there were white people, but never expected to see one, but hoped that
I would soon again return, assuring me that my new bride should be
waiting for me whenever I came back, and that every comfort should be
furnished me, free of expense, whenever I might visit his country. We
then shook hands and parted, the old caboceer with tears in his eyes.

I forgot to mention the names of the caboceer and head-men of
Whagba;[10] they are as follow--

  Caboceer’s name   Agoa.
  First Head-man    Cantra.
  Second  do.       Bossa.
  Third   do.       Bassa.
  Fourth  do.       Whyo.
  Fifth Head-man    Bow.
  Sixth   do.       Baya.
  Seventh do.       Wynho.
  Eighth  do.       Haigh, Commander-in-chief.

  Head-women’s names--Wossee, Agwbydhe.

On my return to Baffo we proceeded by the side of the mountain of
Kpaloko opposite to that we passed before, consequently we visited
other parties to those we had met on my journey to Whagba. The first
was the caboceer of Mount Laow, whose name was Minakoko. On my return
I found him on the side of the path, with a number of his head men,
and carriers with provisions, in all twenty-five large calabashes full
together with a fine young bull. The caboceer of Massey also met me at
the same place, presenting me with the same quantity of provisions as
the above, which were more than we could all devour. After marching
about two miles in a beautiful valley, well watered and cultivated,
with Kpaloko on one side and Mount Laow on the other, as well as other
mountains equally steep and difficult of access, we were again met by
the caboceer of a town on the side of Mount Laow named Filaly, with
fifty-five calabashes of provision, in all about twenty bushels; he
also presented me with a very fine bull, and the caboceer of my guard
with two goats. Kodeko-Sedgenakaw was his name, and he was one of the
instances of surnames.

In passing this valley of several miles in length, and of three
quarters of a mile in breadth, I could not help observing its natural
defences as a military position. On our left was Kpaloko, whose steep
sides are totally inaccessible, and Mount Laow, running parallel on
the opposite side of the valley, equally steep and inaccessible,
although not so high. Supposing this valley were walled across (which
is narrow at each end) with batteries on the top, and properly armed,
a disciplined army might, with proper resources, defy any number of
enemies. The valley is composed of excellent soil, and rears annually
four crops of the small red Indian corn. This sort, I believe, would
grow in our British isles; and, with other vegetables, which grow with
equal rapidity, would support an army constantly, capable of defending
it during any siege, however prolonged. It has numerous springs,
besides a considerable stream, which passes along in a serpentine
course.

After reaching the end of this interesting valley, we were met at the
market-place on the side of the path, under some large trees, by the
caboceer of Kpaloko, who presented me with thirty-nine calabashes of
provision and a fine bull. His name was Janko. While resting under
the shade of the gigantic trees I could not help looking back with
wonder on the singular work of the Supreme Ruler of Nature. The immense
blocks, which might well be called mountains of granite, we had passed,
thrown together in a confused mass or heap, overhanging the valley in
awful grandeur, presented certainly the most interesting scene of the
kind I had ever witnessed. This caboceer was very communicative and
intelligent, and, I learnt, was much loved and respected by his people.

After resting about an hour, and distributing some presents, as I had
done to all the caboceers and head men on my journey, we marched on our
return for Baffo, which we reached in the evening, where I again took
up my old quarters.

July 22d.--Early in the morning, Jeka Housoo, caboceer of Mount Joko,
came all the way to Baffo, with twenty-two calabashes of provisions
for my breakfast. I had now made up my mind to remain at Baffo, and
explore the neighbourhood of this romantic place, and, if possible, to
ascertain the name of the mountains already mentioned in my Journal.
They appeared to me to be the same as those described by the old
Mahomedan priest, (who paid me several private visits, according to the
custom at Abomey,) as the Dabadab[11] mountains, where I should find
Terrasso-weea, another Mahomedan priest, who was living in Yaouri, and
present at the murder of Mungo Park, and who would be able to give me
every information I might require respecting the melancholy fate of
that unfortunate traveller. All my inquiries, however, were in vain.
When I asked any person unconnected with my own party, their answer
uniformly was, that they did not know the name of these mountains; they
could only just perceive them in the distance; that they were too far
away to know their name; and that I must ask my own caboceer.

I had already found out that orders had been given by the King that
no person, who was not quite acquainted with any subject I might
require information upon, was to pretend to answer any inquiries.
But even my own caboceer pretended ignorance of the name of these
mountains. I therefore determined to steal a march, if possible, from
my guard of soldiers, although I was aware it would be attended with
difficulty as well as hazard to myself and those who accompanied me.
I went out and returned again frequently during the day, from short
shooting excursions, till the caboceer of my guard considered a few men
sufficient to attend me during these rambles in the neighbourhood. This
was just what I was aiming at. When I found my object so far attained,
I called my own private servants, Thomas and John, and told them of my
intention to visit the distant mountains I had that day been observing
through my telescope, informing them that these mountains were, beyond
a doubt, the same as those described by the old priest at Abomey as the
place where we should find Terrasso-weea.

They were, they said, of the same opinion; but when I again told
them of my intention to visit those mountains, they pointed out many
objections, some of which were not unreasonable. They were aware of
the strict injunctions of the King to my guard respecting my safety
and return to Abomey, and also that the captain, or caboceer, of my
guard was responsible by his head for my safe return; they moreover
observed, that if we entered the territory of another prince with an
armed force, it would place us in danger. Still I persevered in my
intention of proceeding, and told them I would make each of them a
present of a handsome piece of cloth, over and above their pay, upon my
return, if they would accompany me. This was to them a tempting offer
for one day’s journey (as we then supposed). They promised to keep all
quiet, and agreed to my arrangement. I told them that I would go out
early in the morning, as if on a shooting excursion, and directed them
to bring with them one head of cowries, and a small box, containing
a few clasp knives and some small scissors, Jew’s harps, needles,
and thimbles. With these few articles we went out to shoot; and as I
generally shot off my horse’s back, no suspicion of my intentions was
evinced by any of the rest of my party.

It fortunately happened, that early on this morning the caboceer from
Mount Awya, whose name is Cassoo, had brought us plenty of provision
and live-stock, namely, a goat, a fowl, some yams, and five strings
of cowries, so that I had an opportunity of leaving when the soldiers
were at breakfast. Only three soldiers accompanied me, one of whom
happened to be a Fellattah. After we had gone about five miles, and I
not appearing to notice the different birds, my attendants pointed out
to me the palm and shea butter nut trees as we passed, and appeared to
become uneasy, broadly hinting that it was now time to return. However,
I was determined not to let the present opportunity slip, but at once
told them that I intended to visit a friend who was at present trading
in a town close at the foot of the distant high mountains.

The path bore (true) North 50° towards East. The land is level and rich
loam, and well watered from chalky or pipe-clay springs. After leaving
Baffo a few miles, nothing of cultivation shows itself till within a
few miles of the town of Zafoora, where the soil is well cultivated,
and crops of maize and Guinea corn are abundant; yams and manioc are
also plentiful. Palm-nuts and ground nuts also abound; and here the
shea-butter is in common use for burning in their lamps, which are of a
very simple construction, being merely a shallow earthen vessel in the
shape of a saucer. Their method of trimming their lamps is as simple
as the construction of the lamp itself: a piece of wick is twisted
from the native cotton which is abundant here, and coiled up in the
vessel, then a quantity of the shea butter, about the consistence
of hog’s-lard, is pressed into the lamp, on the top of the wick. The
lamp thus trimmed is placed in a small niche, several of which are
left in the wall when the house is built. As the heat of the lighted
wick approaches, the butter melts into a liquid like oil, and burns
extremely clear, without any unpleasant smell.


FOOTNOTES:

[8] Commander-in-chief of the militia.

[9] After proceeding some distance into the interior the cowrie
increases in value.

[10] Matcholee, one of the principal men of Whagba, was selected as
one of the most intelligent men in the Mahee country, and summoned to
Abomey to be my guide through that country.

[11] Dababab is, as I have already mentioned, a sort of dumpling, made
without fat, composed of the meal of the Indian corn.




                              CHAPTER IV.

 Zafoora--Terror of the Natives--Cold Reception by the King--My
 Disappointment--Exorbitant Charge--Unpleasant Position--Palaver with
 the King--Scene of the Defeat of the Dahomans--Inhospitality--The
 Shea-butter, and other Trees--The Gwbasso--Prevalent
 Diseases--Soil--The Velvet Tamarind--Wearisome Journey--Akwaba--Cold
 Reception by the Caboceer--His Disappointment--Slave Trade--Hard
 Bargain--Manufacture of Indigo--Hardware--The Ziffa--King Chosee
 and his Cavalry--Their Hostile Attitude--Moment of Danger--Result
 of a Firm Demeanour--Respect shewn by the King and Natives--Enter
 Koma with a Band of Music--Kind Reception--Introduction to the
 King’s Wives--Palaver with the King--The Niger known here as the
 Joleeba--Presents to the King--Babakanda--Exorbitant Charges
 for Provisions--Manufactures--Ginger, Rice, &c.--Seka--Bustle
 of the Caboceer--Slave-Market--Trade Monopolized by the
 Caboceer--The Kolla-nut--Honey--Peto--Palaver with the
 Caboceer--Soil--Assofoodah--Hostile Reception--Palaver--Ridiculous
 Confusion--Inhospitality.


Upon my near approach to the town of Zafoora, the people employed
in the fields appeared, but fled from their employment, halting at
short intervals and looking backward, like startled cattle. However,
as we came nearer to the entrance of the town, they seemed more bold
and awaited our approach. A messenger on the look-out had doubtless
informed the caboceer or king of our approach, and he had sent a
messenger or head man to inquire what we wanted, from whence we came,
and if we bore any message or presents for him; but my reply was,
that I merely came to see himself. I remained outside the inner gate
till the messenger returned, who was detained some time. My people
now showed some symptoms of alarm, and we found by experience that
we were not under the protection of the good King of Dahomey. No
ready-cooked provisions, no prostrations, or cheerful welcome, but
all looked curiosity and suspicion. At length the messenger returned,
informing us that the King would shortly be ready to receive us.
Accordingly, in about a quarter of an hour afterwards, he made his
appearance, surrounded by his head men and soldiers. The soldiers,
who were bowmen and spearmen, exhibited the most singular gestures as
they approached till within a few paces, when the whole party halted.
The King in person then desired to know if it were himself I wanted.
During this inquiry he eyed me with apparent doubt or suspicion. I told
him I hoped I saw him well and happy, but I had another object in view
besides coming to see him, which was to visit a merchant, a Mahomedan
fetish-man, named Terrasso-weea.

As soon as I mentioned this man, the King, as if aroused from stupor,
was all politeness and condescension; but to my great disappointment
and dismay, I was informed that my friend had left that town, after a
long sojourn, for one at a great distance in the interior. This seemed
almost like a death-blow to me, and I could also observe that my people
were much disheartened, as well as foot-sore and tired. My poor fellows
were glad to lie down, and my little horse seemed a little tired,
although I had walked some considerable distance. I had travelled
forty-four miles, almost without halting. Concealing as much as
possible my disappointment, I began to make some inquiry where I could
purchase some fowls. The King immediately ordered some to be brought,
from which I selected two, but was astonished when, upon asking the
price, I was told twelve strings of cowries for each fowl. This was an
exorbitant charge, as the selling price amongst each other is 1¹⁄₂_d._;
however, I was obliged to comply with the extortion, although I had
only one head of cowries with me, not expecting to be absent more than
a day. It is true I had some articles of hardware, but although they
would greedily have accepted them as presents, yet money--money seemed
to speak their language better than any thing else, as in fact it does
in all countries.

This circumstance was rather a damper on a private scheme I had then
in contemplation. During the time our meal was being cooked, which was
both our dinner and supper, I made inquiry how far distant the place
was to which the merchant had gone, and was informed that, supposing
I commenced my journeys every morning before the rising of the sun,
and walked fast, without stopping to eat till the sun was gone out of
sight, I should reach the place in eight or nine days at farthest. One
man said he had once been with this Mahomedan priest, and returned
from Adafoodia in seven days. I was informed by the King of Zafoora,
that the merchant had a white man in his company. This information
was a stimulus to my determination to pursue my object of obtaining
information. The white man I conjectured must have been a man named
Bell, who had obtained a free passage from England to Fernando Po,
whence he said he intended to proceed up the Niger to the confluence
of the Shadda, thence up that river to the lake Shad, and there remain
three years. This I was told on the coast, but from what I had already
experienced of the African climate, I feared that his calculations were
too extravagant, still I could come to no other conclusion than that
the white man spoken of by the King must be the same.

I now began to reflect upon my present position. First, I had left my
guard in a clandestine manner, and in all probability I might be the
means of an excellent man (my caboceer) losing his head. Next, I might
incur the displeasure of the King of Dahomey, who had been my real
friend; and, lastly, I might probably sacrifice those who accompanied
me. I had, however, already made a serious breach, and I determined
to proceed at all hazards, resolving to send the weakest of my three
soldiers back to Baffo, to inform the caboceer of my guard that my
friend had gone on a few days’ journey, accompanied by a countryman
whom I was anxious to see, and desired him to make himself easy till my
return, which would be as soon as possible.

The King of Zafoora entered into a lengthened inquiry respecting
the Dahomans, but I dared not acknowledge the patronage of the King
of Dahomey, nor yet let him know that the soldiers accompanying me
belonged to him, otherwise I might have been deemed a spy. It was
now that I learned the reason the Dahomans would not know the name
of the Dabadab Mountains. Many years ago the Dahomans besieged those
mountains; but after remaining near their foot, and suffering much from
small-pox and fever, which they deemed to proceed from the vengeance
of their own fetish, they raised their unsuccessful siege, and those
who survived returned in shame to Abomey; upon which a proclamation
was issued that the name of these mountains should never again be
mentioned, or the small-pox, as that disease is very much dreaded on
the whole of the west coast, as well as in the interior. I was glad
when the King ceased his inquiries, for my people required rest as well
as myself. We were allowed to remain in this hut during the night with
my horse tied up outside. One fowl was reserved for our breakfast in
the morning--rather a scanty allowance for all of us; but we had stored
our havresacks pretty well with heads of corn, which was nearly ripe at
this season, and very sweet. Although the caboceer, after my inquiry
respecting Terrasso-weea, appeared tolerably friendly, and eager to
receive any little article as a present, he never offered me anything
in return.

July 24th.--Early in the morning we commenced our journey, having made
a hurried and rather scanty breakfast. One of my soldiers returning to
Baffo, I had now only four persons besides myself. The path bore N. 35°
W. varying to N. 10° W. and N. 15° W. (true) bearing. The country was
level and well watered, open and studded with small clumps of bushes
and shea butter-trees as well as palm. On the plain I observed many
large sycamore-trees, with very large leaves, and the bark rather more
rough than those in England. The acacia is also very abundant in this
neighbourhood. At six miles we reached the river Gwbasso, which is of
considerable magnitude, being twenty yards wide, and twelve feet deep.
The banks were nearly level with the water, the river running eastward
at the rate of three miles per hour. It abounds with alligators of
great size, as well as hippopotami.

Little of interest occurred during this day’s journey: we only passed a
few miserable krooms, where kankie and water were sold to travellers,
each kroom growing merely enough of corn to supply their own wants.
Small-pox and yaws seemed to have made great havoc amongst the natives;
probably, on that account, intercourse with their neighbours was
strictly forbidden.

At about twenty miles, we halted by the side of a small rivulet,
running eastward. It had cut a deep channel in the soil, which was
at this place red and crumbly, resembling that in the vicinity of
our copper-mines in England. On the banks were numerous shrubs and
brambles, and plenty of the velvet-tamarind trees. Here we lighted a
fire under the shade of one of these last-mentioned trees, where we had
a glorious feast upon roasted corn; but my little horse relished the
corn very well without taking the trouble to roast it.

We remained about an hour and a half, when we resumed our journey, my
men complaining of the soreness of their feet, for the road was now
very rough with red pebbles, which bruised them very much. After a
tiresome journey of thirty-one miles, we arrived at the town of Akwaba.
Here we were obliged to wait a considerable time before we could be
admitted into the inner gates of the town, the caboceer having to
ornament himself previous to making his appearance; and here also the
caboceer received us rather coolly, seeming to be very anxious to know
my object in coming to visit his country. I was aware that it was of
no use to explain that I came with scientific views, so I told him I
came to see himself and my friend, (as I called him,) Terrasso-weea.
This name seemed to gain me welcome every where, and I found it
very convenient. We were invited into the market-place to make our
palaver, and some water was handed us to drink. This pleased me and my
people much, as we were aware that this was the truest mark of their
friendship; but they offered us nothing to eat, although I can answer,
_the packman’s drouth was at that moment most pressing_.[12] However,
we were obliged to submit to a great many idle questions, respecting
white men’s country, and also respecting the Dahoman country, which
they seemed to dread much, and exclaimed much against the Dahomans for
not allowing guns and other articles of trade to pass through into the
Fellattah country.

The caboceer seemed much disappointed when he found, upon inquiry, that
I was not come to purchase slaves, informing me that he had got plenty
to supply me with at a very cheap rate. He said he could conceive no
other motive for white man coming to black man’s country, unless to
trade in some way or other. I told him I had been trading, but my goods
were nearly exhausted, and shewed him some Jew’s harps and needles.
These he admired, but still he preferred money (cowries), but would
like a present to keep in remembrance of me. This I told him was all
very well, but I wanted to barter for some food. After much higgling,
we made a hard bargain for some fowls and a large duck, which we were
obliged to keep an eye upon, lest he should be again restored to his
family. Had we killed him he would have been spoiled before morning, as
nothing of animal life will keep good more than a few hours. Our method
of taking the feathers off was by dipping the fowls in hot water, which
saved a great deal of trouble. We purchased a small quantity of red
rice, which grows in this country, and with the two fowls and some
shalots, we managed to make an excellent meal, after which we were left
to repose in a tolerably comfortable hut, but without mat or bedding of
any description. The natives here are nearly all Mahomedan, but are not
scrupulous as to the creed or habits of others, having been mixed up so
much with Pagans throughout their long wars a few years back.

Early on the morning of the 25th we again breakfasted off cold fowl
and some cold boiled corn. One of the soldiers fastened the Muscovy
drake’s feet together, and tied him to his havresack; and thus we
commenced our march from Akwaba, the path leading northward, narrow,
and worn very deep, which was caused by the water running along it.
The land was still level, with stunted trees of various descriptions,
to me unknown by name. At seven miles we passed a small kroom, where
indigo was rudely manufactured by pounding or grinding the leaves upon
a stone upon which they also grind corn. When ground sufficiently it is
made up into round balls about the size of a cricket-ball, and exposed
in the market for sale. Iron is manufactured in this country. In this
kroom hoes for agricultural use are made in a superior manner, as also
stirrups, similar to those used by the Moors in the neighbourhood of
Tangiers and El-Arish. Bits for horses’ bridles are also manufactured
here of a very severe description, the cross-bar or mouth-piece having
in its centre a ring large enough to allow the horse’s under-jaw to
pass easily through it: this ring of course acts both as bit and curb,
but is very likely to break the horse’s jaw, which is very frequently
the case in the Fellattah country.

In the neighbourhood of this kroom we again stocked our havresacks
with corn, which was of a superior sort, being smaller in the grain,
and very sweet. At twelve miles we crossed the river Ziffa, which runs
eastward. This river is of little magnitude, though navigable by canoes
of a large size. The country in the vicinity of the path was nearly
level, but low table-mountains might be observed at a great distance
to the eastward. At twenty-seven miles we arrived at the cultivated
land in the vicinity of the town of Koma. It appears that as soon as
our presence was known in the Fellattah country, and the route which we
were pursuing, messengers had been despatched before us to apprise the
caboceers of our coming.

When about a mile from the town, while passing through the corn
plantation, we were met by Chosee, the King of this province, preceded
by a host of cavalry, of extraordinary appearance, who came to meet us,
flourishing their short broad-swords above their heads, accompanied by
the wildest yells imaginable. Their horses were at their speed, but the
little animals being over weighted, did not get over the ground very
fast. My attendants were much alarmed at so unusual a spectacle, never
having seen any mounted soldiery before. They halted in astonishment,
not knowing whether they were our friends or enemies. I cannot but
confess that I felt something of the same uncertainty myself; however,
long exposure to danger and privation have a wonderful influence
in preparing the mind for the various chances of travelling in a
barbarous country, and we are often carried through scenes of danger
and difficulty scarcely without noticing them at the moment they occur,
though upon subsequent reflection we often shudder at the idea of the
danger we ran. I told my men not to be alarmed or show any symptoms
of fear. They marched in single file close to my horse’s heels, but
I directed them that if an attack were made upon us, the act of my
drawing my sword was to be a signal of defence, as it would be useless
for us to sell our lives cheaply.

Before we had time to say more, the party were close upon us. I was
aware that I had a much superior horse to any I observed amongst this
troop; and I also knew that I had much superior weapons to theirs, and
that I could destroy a number of them in a short time; yet, if they
stood, it was useless to hope for any success against such a disparity
of numbers. However, when they were about three yards from me, the
whole of this confused rabble pulled up short and commenced a song,
each keeping his own time, in praise of the wisdom and power of their
King, the group opening out from their centre to allow King Chosee to
advance. I was aware that it was a customary thing for all strangers
and inferiors to prostrate themselves before the kings or superior
rulers; but I was equally aware that by so doing I should be lessening
the dignity of my country, as well as their own respect towards myself.
I remained consequently on horseback, till the King dismounted and was
in the act of prostration, when I desired him not to do so, as it was
not customary in my country. I then immediately dismounted, and shook
hands with him, which is also a customary form of salutation in this
country. His chiefs and principal men were then introduced to me. After
going through the usual ceremonies observed upon receiving strangers
of note, I was invited to enter the town of Koma.

This town, like nearly all others in that country, is strongly walled
and fenced round, with only two gates. We were conducted to the
market-place, preceded by a rude band of musicians, playing instruments
like the ancient hautboy. The music was rude to the ear of an European,
but still not unpleasant, and my people were quite delighted with it.
I felt myself more at home in this town than in any place I had passed
since I left the Mahee country. The King acknowledged that he was made
aware that my purpose in passing through the country was to visit
Terrrasso-weea. He, it appeared, was much esteemed as a man of talent,
independently of his being a fetish-man. I was treated by this King
with every mark of respect, and even kindness. He introduced me to his
sister, to whom I presented a few needles and two thimbles.

After returning to the market-place, the King introduced me to some
of his wives, who were like so many sheep in a pen, over the walls of
which on one side they could conveniently look. Here I was requested to
station myself for show, like a wild beast in some public menagerie
Some of the young wives seemed to take great interest in seeing a
white man; others, upon my looking steadfastly at them, ran back, as
if alarmed. The weather being hot, I felt extremely thirsty, and asked
one of my people to get me some water; whereupon the multitude of wives
hearing what I requested, were in a moment all in a bustle which should
be the first to present me with a calabash full of water. No doubt
they expected a present for their attention. To the lady who first
presented me with water, I gave a few needles. The King, perceiving
that I was thirsty, ordered plenty of palm-wine to be set before me and
my people. We were shortly after invited into one of the King’s inner
apartments, where provisions in abundance were set before us, amongst
which I observed a fine guano, which had been dried like a kippered
salmon, and cooked with native rice. Not much relishing, however, this
alligator-like customer, I made over the whole of it to my people, and
contented myself with some goat-soup, which was excellent.

The King made many inquiries respecting my acquaintance with
Terrasso-weea, and how long I had known him. To these questions I was
rather perplexed how to answer, but was obliged to acknowledge that I
had only seen his friend, the Mahomedan priest, at the great custom at
Abomey. A great many questions were then put to me as to how I happened
to come to Abomey, and if I had ever seen that great warrior, the King
of Dahomey. I confessed that I had, but happened merely to be passing
through his country, when he asked me to remain a few days, as he might
have done it himself, and that I was only travelling across the country
to ascertain whether it would be possible to establish a trade with
this part of Africa, by bringing guns and gunpowder to exchange for
their produce. Upon this he seemed much pleased, but quickly asked me
whether we would take slaves in exchange. I replied that we were more
in want of corn and oil, as well as ivory, all of which he professed to
be able to supply in abundance.

He asked in what way we would pass the merchandise I proposed to barter
into his country, as he said that the great Kings of Dahomey and
Yarriba would not allow any other articles than such as they approved
of to pass through their country into the interior. To this I replied
that we could come up the great river Niger, which was not known here
by that name; though I soon ascertained that he had a perfect knowledge
of the unfortunate expedition up that river, with the fire canoes, as
he called them; and he even knew of the disasters which happened to
that expedition, assuring me that that season was the most fatal to the
natives in his own and other countries in the interior, which had been
known during the lifetime of the oldest man then living.

The Niger appears to be known here only by the name _Joleeba_, not
_Joliba_. Only a few people here professed to have ever seen it. Fever
and small-pox seem to be the most dreaded of all diseases; though a
very loathsome disease prevails, which in England is generally called
yaws. Some are so afflicted with it, that the odour from their person
is almost unbearable; others are one mass of eruption with holes in the
arms and legs even to the bone.

After we had sufficiently rested ourselves, I proposed resuming my
march, and looked out some Jew’s harps, and a pair of small scissors,
with some needles, as a present to the King, excusing myself for
offering him such trifling articles, by informing him that I was not
aware that I should come so far, but in my next journey I promised to
make him some more valuable presents. He then commenced a long list
of the articles which he would prefer that I should bring on my next
visit, to which of course I assented.

His Majesty expressed a great desire that I should remain that
night, but as my journey was long, and I was anxious to get it over,
I declined his kind offer, and resumed my march, accompanied by a
messenger sent by the King to introduce me to the chief of the next
town, which we reached in about six miles more. This town is named
Babakanda. Around it the land is in high cultivation, bearing excellent
crops of various sorts of corn and rice, as well as many bulbous plants
for consumption. Here we were also tolerably well received, probably on
account of the King’s messenger. This town is much larger than Koma,
and has got a palace or a royal residence, where the King often resides.

The King Chosee is sovereign of this town as well as many others in
this neighbourhood. The caboceer of this place received us without
great ceremony, and at first seemed rather shy and diffident, till the
King’s messenger intimated my knowledge of Terrasso-weea and my journey
to Adafoodia. He then showed more familiarity and confidence. We asked
him for some wood to kindle a fire to boil some corn, which we carried
with us, and tried to buy some fowls, but they were so very dear,
that we could not make a bargain for any of them. They asked sometimes
twenty strings of cowries for one fowl, though, as I have said, one
string and a half was the market-price. I was much annoyed at this, but
would even have purchased at their own price, if they would have taken
any of my articles in exchange; however, the caboceer would not take
any thing but money in payment, though he asked greedily for presents.
I gave him only a paper of needles, however, as a remuneration for the
wood with which he supplied us.

The chief manufacture of this town is leather and sabres of an inferior
description, remaining in whatever position they are bent. Ginger is
grown here in great abundance, as well as rice and yams of a very large
description. The stock of cattle is also abundant, though not quite so
handsome as those of the Mahee country. The natives are very shy of
intercourse with strangers, consequently I had little opportunity of
knowing by inquiry much of their locality beyond my own observation.
The town appeared to contain about nine or ten thousand inhabitants.

At day-break on the 26th July we breakfasted off a few heads of boiled
corn, and marched from Babakanda, bearing N. 33° W., true bearing,
varying during the day’s journey of twenty-eight miles, from 33° to
25°, 20° to 80° W. During the first twelve miles the country was
nearly of the same character as last described, except that I observed
the springs in this neighbourhood to contain a greater quantity of
carbonate of iron. At thirteen miles we arrived at the town of Seka.
Here we entered with little ceremony, though our sudden intrusion did
not seem quite agreeable to the caboceer. Probably this feeling was
roused by our not having forwarded a messenger to acquaint him with our
attention of visiting him, so that he might be able to make a greater
display of his grandeur and show of dress, of which they are generally
very fond. We found him in the market-place apparently very busy, for
he appeared to monopolize the direction and regulate the prices of all
merchandise and manufactures exposed in the outer market.

Slaves were exposed in great numbers in the market for sale, some
in irons and others without. It appears that those wearing irons
were strangers, brought from a distance, and the others were in many
instances the children and relatives of the sellers. It may not be
perhaps generally known, that the children of domestic slaves are
invariably the property of the owners of the parents, and are bought
and sold in a similar manner to our cattle, when disposed of by the
breeders in the public market. The outer market is outside of the
walls, under the shade of large trees, but when a town or city has two
walls, the public market is held within the outer walls. This market is
often attended by strangers from a great distance. The private market
is invariably held within the walls; and if the town is large, there
are several market-places in the most convenient parts of the town.

The caboceer and his officers retain the power of regulating the
prices, as I have before stated; and as the greater part of the trade
(with the exception of any European goods which may find their way
into these remote parts) is entirely in his hands, on the great public
market-days he is always busily engaged in the purchase of goods for
his private markets. His wives and slaves are then stationed in the
inner markets with different articles for sale, and many of the younger
boys and girls are sent round the towns in the neighbourhood, hawking
light goods for sale.

The kolla-nut is a great article of trade here, and seems much prized
by the natives. From its extreme bitterness it is an excellent tonic,
and is very serviceable in promoting moisture in the mouth when
parched for want of water. The kaom (saltpetre) in its original state
is sold here, but at a much higher rate than in the Mahee country.
Cloths are also manufactured here with considerable taste, as also
bridles and saddles, ornamented with cowries. The market-places are
arranged similarly to our system in Europe, different articles being
sold in places specially appointed for their sale.

In rainy weather the market, except for cattle, is held under the
piazzas in front of the houses, which are very low, but as they always
sit cross-legged, or lie down by their goods, they experience no
inconvenience from the lowness of their dwellings. Honey is abundant
here, but as dark in colour as molasses. The hives are generally taken
in the hollow trunks of trees, when the honey is pressed from the comb,
consequently it is not of the finest quality. A great quantity of peto
is made here also, and sold in the market at a very low rate. When made
strong, this liquor is very intoxicating, particularly as it is drunk
in a state of fermentation.

After a short interview with the caboceer, during which he questioned
me as to my purpose in visiting his country, I was asked to partake
of some peto, which stood in immensely large earthen pots, made in
the form of the bottle-gourd, from which, doubtless, they have taken
their pattern. In reply to his questions I said, that my object was to
ascertain what trade could be done in this part of the country in the
event of my coming next time with a large quantity of goods. This, I
knew, would please him, and he assured me that I should certainly get
rid of any quantity I might bring. I told him, that after I had seen
Terrasso-weea, I should return, and bring plenty of goods to his mart.
I was very well aware I should easily get rid of any quantity of goods
if I brought them, but in all probability at their own price. I knew,
however, that this would be the safest excuse I could make. I asked the
price of slaves, and was immediately shown a number of male and female
slaves, varying in price from forty-six thousand to forty-nine thousand
cowries.

After receiving orders for different articles on my return, I resumed
my journey, having presented the caboceer with a pair of scissors and
a few needles. At twenty miles, we crossed the brook Ithay. Here I
found good water, running eastward over a gravelly bed. The country was
level, and now more gravelly, containing a considerable quantity of
iron. The soil was less rich, though crops of corn were very abundant.
The valley forming the source of the brook Ithay was richly shaded with
large trees of luxurious growth.

At twenty-eight miles, we arrived at the large town of Assofoodah.
Here we were also received with much apparent suspicion. It was now
getting late, and I felt much anxiety to see the caboceer or king, to
obtain a hut to sleep in. We were very tired, and though we had eaten
a considerable quantity of corn as we passed along, still my people,
as well as myself, were a good deal exhausted, and in want of more
substantial food.

After considerable delay, the caboceer came to the outer gate of the
town, attended by a number of bowmen and spearmen. He advanced with
a slow, firm step, with a stern, suspicious frown upon his features.
My poor fellows, who could speak English, remarked how different our
treatment was when under the protection of the noble King of Dahomey,
as compared with our present reception. However, this was not a time
to humble ourselves, and I therefore determined to assume great
consequence, though I was not now in possession of one single cowrie.
I stood by my horse’s head, with folded arms, and assumed as much
consequence as if the place were my own. When within about ten paces,
the caboceer made a sudden halt, his head men prostrating themselves,
and at the same time asking what I wanted with their master, whom they
styled king.

Upon this I replied, through my interpreter, that I had come to pay
him a visit, and also for the purpose of trading with them. Though no
further remark was made by them, there seemed something incredulous in
his manner; and the whole of his people seemed distant and suspicious.
I felt, consequently, much inclined to leave the town, and encamp for
the night in the bush; but, upon a second consideration, I thought
if any evil were premeditated towards us, it would be more likely to
be put into execution if we were out of the town than when under the
protection of the King. I therefore sent a messenger to ask him if he
could accommodate us with a hut to shelter us, as it was now raining
fast. But he had already observed the sudden approach of the tornado,
and had gone to order a hut for our accommodation. This was at some
distance, and we were led through small doors from one court-yard into
another.

After passing through several court-yards, I was told that my horse
could proceed no farther, and must remain where it then was. This I
did not at all relish. The objection made was that the doorways were
too low; whereupon, I ordered the saddle to be taken off, and the
poor animal, bending itself down, passed through the whole of the low
doorways, through which I could scarcely thrust myself.

At last we arrived at a tolerably comfortable court-yard, of a
quadrangular form, one side of which was occupied by large stones
for grinding corn. Here a number of good-looking young females were
busily employed in grinding. Upon my entry, the most ridiculous
confusion ensued; no retreat was ever more precipitate; one young girl
pushing down and running over another, children screaming, even the
dogs running, howling with fear, and upsetting pots of provision, or
anything which stood in their way. By this time I was wet through, and
very glad when shown my hut, which was quite dark, having no opening
to admit of light except the door-way, which was little more than
three feet high. We were shortly afterwards furnished with some wood
to make a fire, but we had nothing to cook. I endeavoured to bargain
for some fowls in exchange for needles or thimbles, but, although they
seemed to covet every thing they saw, money was their only object, and,
though Mahomedans, this seemed their god. We were consequently obliged
to satisfy ourselves with roasting the heads of boiled corn which we
still retained in our havresacks. One young lad engaged to procure me
plenty of grass and corn-leaves for my horse for some needles, which
I readily agreed to. He was so much satisfied with his wages, that I
easily engaged him to procure some old corn for my horse also. He said
his mother had got a large corn-store, but I found what he considered a
large store did not exceed fifty or sixty bushels.

He soon returned with plenty of corn for my horse, and a fresh supply
of needles seemed to give him great satisfaction. In a short time my
hut was crowded with boys, each with a bundle of wet grass, thinking
that they would obtain needles in payment. When I told them that the
first supply was sufficient, they declared, to my no small amusement,
that they thought I myself ate grass. Whether this was their real
belief, or whether merely to obtain money, I am not able to determine,
but I should suppose the latter. After a short time, the affrighted
ladies returned to their employment, and were with others soon induced
to come to the door of my hut. Some of the boldest of the crowd
ventured to come into my hut, importuning me for dashes (presents),
and shortly afterwards made free enough to endeavour to examine the
contents of our havresacks; but by a stern look, and placing my hand at
the same time on the hilt of my sword, they made a hasty retreat.

In about an hour afterwards, the king or chief returned to my quarters,
and some of his attendants brought a small quantity of shea-butter to
trim my lamp afresh. He asked me if I had any tobacco, or if I had any
knives. Having a few small pocket-knives, I made him a present of one
and some Jew’s harps. We kept a light the greater part of the night,
during which time many parties came to look at me. This was annoying,
as I so much required rest, and had an unsatisfied appetite. It was a
bad season of the year for yams, which were not yet ripe, and in this
country too they are of inferior quality, and very insipid, being water
yams.


FOOTNOTES:

[12] In Scotland, the “packman’s drouth” is hunger for food.




                              CHAPTER V.

 Inhospitality--Good Fortune--Soil--Mahomedan Town--Hymn of
 Welcome--The Natives, their Curiosity, &c.--Manufactures,
 &c.--The Crown-bird domesticated--Quampanissa--Market
 Day--Curiosity of the Natives--A Cranery--Market Constables,
 their Functions--Singular Musical Instrument--A Palaver with the
 Caboceer--Bidassoa--Mishap--A Bivouac--Reception by the Caboceer--Palm
 Wine freely taken by Mahomedans--Superstition of the Natives--Grain
 Stores--Manufactures--Buffaloes--Fruit Trees--Horses, their market
 price here--Cattle--Elephants--Manufactures--Game--Method of
 drying Venison--Trees, Shrubs, Grasses, &c.--Kosow--Terror of the
 Native Females--Appearance of the Caboceer--Palaver--Presents to
 the Caboceer--His Harem--Swim across the River Ofo--Its Width,
 &c.--The Town of Kasso-Kano--Slave-Market--The Women--Neighbouring
 Hills--Iron--Antimony--Native System of smelting Ore--Native Furnace
 and Bellows--Roguery--Bivouac.


After a very uncomfortable night, and not much refreshed, we
re-commenced at day-break, on the 27th July, our journey, but without
breakfast. We had met with but little hospitality in this town,
consequently our presents were not many in return. We were escorted to
the outer gates by the chief, who is vested with the sole government,
and his order is peremptory law amongst the subjects of this and
several other towns. But although styled king, he can at any moment be
divested of his power by the real monarch of the Fellattah country. As
soon as we had parted with our friend and his people, we began to think
of obtaining something to eat, being aware, that if at any distance
from a town or kroom, we could not procure any corn, as it is only in
the neighbourhood of towns or villages that the land is cultivated.

We very soon had an opportunity of filling our havresacks, and not
long afterwards I had the good fortune to shoot a Guinea fowl, of
an uncommon description, at least to me, as I had seen but very few
previous to this. This bird was very large, and of a jet-black colour:
even the legs were as black as a sloe. This good fortune seemed to
cheer my men, who before seemed very low in spirits; and, to be candid,
I was not entirely void of the same feeling myself.

The path from Assofoodah[13] bears N. 45° W., varying from 45° W. to
10°, 25°, and 20° (true). The country was still level, the soil varying
from gravel to a sort of ruddle, used in marking sheep, similar to some
soils in England. This, when wet, seems greasy, and is very slippery.
It is very productive.

At four miles we arrived at a small town, strongly fenced in with
a prickly hedge, at least twenty yards broad, and strongly walled
inside, each fence having a strong gate, as well as being guarded
by a sentinel or watchman. Here we halted at the inner gate, till a
messenger acquainted the caboceer with our arrival. We were not long
before the caboceer came, attended by two priests (Mahomedan), who, as
they advanced, repeated passages of the Koran, at the same time holding
out a small book about three inches wide, and four inches and a half
long, with not more than a dozen leaves of a curious sort of paper,
resembling rice paper. This ceremony was something entirely new to me,
consequently I felt not a little confused, not knowing the meaning of
it.

I was soon, however, set at ease through my interpreter, who, though
he was one of the Dahoman soldiers, was a native of some part of the
Fellattah country. I was determined to wait patiently to see what would
be expected of me, never offering to pay any compliment, though I could
scarcely help thinking that they had already been paying me one, which
I had not yet returned. My interpreter, however, assured me that this
was a customary form upon a friendly reception of strangers.

After the singing men had concluded their song or hymn of welcome, they
all advanced, and with all the head men, except the chief himself,
prostrated themselves before me. I then approached, and, dismounting,
shook hands with the chief, who made me several graceful bows, each
time repeating the word “sinou,” which, in the language of their
country, signifies, _How are you?_ or, _How do you do?_ The chief was a
fine, stout old man, apparently about sixty-five years of age, and very
active for a man of his years.

The natives of this country are very different, both in form and
appearance, as well as in character, and possess more elasticity of
temper than natives near the west coast. They are also more quick in
their ideas, and have greater expression in their features; and are
either very warm friends, or determined and persevering enemies. Their
cranium differs considerably from that of the Mahees, the frontal
bone being square and high, and altogether displaying greater powers
of intellect. Here I was treated with much more kindness than I had
anticipated, though nearly the whole of the natives were Mahomedans.

After being invited into the interior of the town, and seated in the
court-yard of the palaver, we were presented with a large calabash
of clean water, one of the chief’s principal men drinking first. A
bottle-calabash was then handed to us full of wild honey, which is
abundant here, and we were supplied with wood to make a fire to cook
our breakfast. My people were now in tolerably good spirits, since we
were so well received, and had got, or rather stolen, plenty of corn
for our consumption for the whole day. We had also a very fine Guinea
fowl as well as plenty of yams. We soon got the steam up, and my man
speedily divested the fowl of its outer rigging by dipping it into some
scalding water, and in about three-quarters of an hour we sat down to
enjoy a sumptuous breakfast; after which, I expressed a wish to go over
the town, which, although not a market-day, showed considerable bustle
with only the usual daily trade.

This town contains a considerable number of workmen of different
trades, all of whom seemed employed, except such of them as were
occupied in reconnoitring the white stranger. The loom and the anvil
are both of very simple construction here. The former is on the same
principle as those in the Mahee and Dahoman countries, and in fact
upon the same principle as our looms in England, though showing less
workmanship. Their thread, though spun with the distaff, is very
regular and strong. Bridles and saddles are manufactured here with
considerable ingenuity; the dyeing of cloth and staining of leather are
also well known here.

The natives seem contented and are in the enjoyment of plenty. But the
extreme difference in the manners and habits as well as disposition
of the natives of different towns is scarcely credible, though in the
immediate vicinity of each other. I believe this depends a great deal
upon their chiefs or rulers, whether they be tyrannical or mild in the
administration of their government. Here I observed several beautiful
crown-birds of large size, walking about the town, quite domesticated.
They are certainly one of the most beautiful of the feathered tribe I
ever saw. The soil here changed to a light sandy loam, resembling that
between Abomey and Canamina.

We returned to the palaver-house, after our stroll round the town,
followed by nearly all the natives, old and young. The caboceer,
or chief, seemed pleased to have an opportunity of gratifying his
people by the sight of a white man. At this town we obtained, to our
satisfaction, some few articles of consumption in exchange for some
of our own goods, namely, two fowls, some shalots, and a quantity of
ground beans. We could not purchase a white fowl; for some reason
unexplained they would only sell black ones. Now that we were secure of
a supply of provision for this day and the following, we presented the
chief with some trifling presents, and then proceeded on our journey
rejoicing.

We were conducted out of the town by the chief and his people, with
nearly the same ceremony as was observed when we entered. After we had
passed the outer gate we parted from our friends, and proceeded onwards.

Nothing particular occurred worthy of observation, the country still
bearing the same features as last described, until, at twenty-one miles
we reached the large town of Quampanissa. This being the market-day, we
entered the public or outer market without ceremony; but the atmosphere
being close and moist from the great heat and evaporation, our march
was fatiguing and oppressive, so that we were very glad to sit down,
while I sent my Fellattah messenger to acquaint the chief, or gadadoo,
as he is here called, with our arrival. During this time we were
surrounded by nearly the whole of the people who were attending market,
and so closely were we hemmed in that we were almost suffocated. In
fact, those in the front of the crowd were involuntarily thrust almost
upon us, from the pressure of those behind, in their anxiety to catch
a sight of me, being to them a great curiosity. My horse and trappings
seemed to create a great sensation.

In some large trees in this market-place was a cranery, the birds
in which were composed of three different colours, and I believe
of distinct species, namely, white, blue, and brown, like the
sparrow-hawk. They are never allowed to be disturbed or molested in
any way, either in the cranery or in its vicinity. In a short time
the crowd dispersed with as much precipitation as they had collected,
several people advancing with immense thongs of bullocks’ hides
fastened to a handle, like a hunting-whip, and laying about them right
and left indiscriminately upon all who came in their way. These, it
appeared, were market-constables, who are employed by the king, or
gadadoo, to preserve order, and protect property in the market. These
people are paid by a tax upon a portion of every article of provision
exposed. Upon other articles a duty is charged in cowries. These men
were clearing a passage for their master to advance.

The procession was nearly the same as that I last described, with the
exception of a stringed musical instrument of a different construction
to any I had before observed. It is merely a plain piece of board,
about twenty inches long and nine wide, with a piece of large bamboo
cane laid across near each end, which forms the bridge, over which
the strings, eight in number, pass. These strings are tightened or
slackened in the same manner as our violin, but the instrument is
slung from the shoulder, and is played guitar-fashion. The sound of
this instrument appeared to me more musical than any native instrument
I had yet heard, though near the coast I have seen instruments on a
somewhat similar principle, being merely a small block of wood hollowed
out, and a piece of hide with the hair shaven off covering over the
concave part. This, when dry, becomes hard, and the strings are passed
over two bridges, one at each end; but the sound of this instrument is
not equal to that I have just described.

The chief conducted us into the inner market, where all was bustle and
confusion. We marched into the centre, where seats were provided for
us, although the chief and his people contented themselves with lying
down during the palaver. We informed him of our purpose in visiting his
country, and of our wish to overtake Terrasso-weea, for whom the chief
professed great friendship. Here we cooked some of our provision, and
remained to dine, the chief presenting us with some native ale (peto),
but much staler than any I had before tasted. Probably this acidity was
caused by its being kept too long. The articles exposed in this market
were much the same as those I have previously mentioned, but the only
native manufacture I saw was cloth.

After remaining about an hour and a half we again proceeded on our
journey, and at thirty-one miles approached the town of Bidassoa; but
it being late, and being uncertain how we might be received, we went
a few hundred yards out of the path into a corn-plantation, and there
encamped for the night. Here we kindled a fire, and again I put my
small camp-kettle into requisition, and we had another feast, but not
before the whole had been upset, and we had been compelled to go a
considerable distance to procure more water.

This mishap was caused by my horse, which had always a particular
propensity to paw the fire abroad whenever he was within reach of it.
I had fastened it to my foot by its halter, but being near the fire,
it upset the kettle and scraped the fire all abroad. We were now left
to our own meditations, which were far preferable to being compelled
to submit to the annoying ceremony always observed upon our entering a
town. My people seemed also to enjoy the comfort of being alone. I had
given each of my men a Jew’s harp of a large size, upon which they were
desirous of learning to play. It gave me much pleasure to see them in
such a contented mood; I therefore amused myself for a time in giving
them lessons, till overcome with sleep. During the night we were
obliged to keep up a good fire lest any of the wild beasts should feel
inclined to make a meal of any of us. However, I enjoyed a tolerably
good night’s repose, till awoke by my horse nibbling at my feet. I then
aroused my men, who were still fast asleep, and our breakfast was soon
prepared. I had made up my mind to avoid the town of Bidassoa, but upon
consideration I deemed it more prudent to call, lest any unpleasant
suspicions might arise owing to our seeming disrespect.

On the morning of the 28th July, we consequently entered the town,
without being detained; the chief was already aware of our presence in
his neighbourhood, and had already prepared himself to receive us. We
were met at the outer gates by himself and retinue, and with nearly the
same ceremony as was observed upon entering the two last towns. We were
requested to follow him to the market, which is, in most instances,
the place of palaver. Here we were supplied with water, and afterwards
with palm-wine, but I felt not a little surprised to find the chief
and his head men all partake of the same, for I had previously found
the Mahomedans abstain from everything of a spirituous nature as
intoxicating. In answer to my remarks respecting this difference, I
was informed that this wine was original, and the production of one
single tree, consequently was not rendered unclean by the addition or
compound of any other substance; but they never partake of peto, though
they do not interfere with Pagans for using such drink, neither do they
interfere with the food of the latter.

Here certain days are strictly observed by not eating a black fowl; on
other days the same is observed with respect to white fowls; neither
will they eat anything which is killed previous to their seeing it.
Many are so strict indeed that they will not eat anything unless killed
by their own hands. I received at this place a present of a pair of
turtle-doves, which are here abundant early in the mornings, but as
soon as the sun becomes very powerful, they, as well as other birds,
all disappear, and conceal themselves in the shade of the bushes and
trees.

This town seems to supply many more than its own inhabitants with corn,
their stores being considerable. Their manner of storing it is by
building circular houses about ten feet high, in the bottom of which a
hole of about six inches square is left to allow the grain to run out
when wanted, which is done by drawing a slide which covers the hole.

The corn is poured in at the top, and is covered by a portable roof
of frame-work similar to an umbrella, which is composed of palm and
long grass, like reeds. This covering is removed at will to allow
ventilation. These granaries are generally about eight feet in
diameter, and are composed of clay or swish.[14]

Cloth of a good quality is manufactured in this town, and shea-butter
is in abundance as at all other places. The inhabitants were very
anxious to obtain a sight of a white man; but they considered my colour
an exaggeration or omission of Nature, similar to some instances of
white negroes whom I observed, though born of black parents. They
seemed much amazed when told that all Europeans were white, like
myself, but that some had hair as black as their own.

Earthen pots and a sort of thin brick or tile are made here for
ornamenting certain parts of the dwellings of the richest inhabitants,
and a great slave-market is also held, but not being market-day I saw
no slaves exposed. In the inner markets, and even at the doors of the
houses, goods are exposed every day for sale. Tobacco, which was quite
common in the Mahee country, is rarely seen here.

After remaining about an hour and a half, and giving away some needles
and thimbles, we informed the chief that we wished to depart on our
journey. He pressed us to stop another day, but I expressed my anxiety
to proceed. He said he was already aware of my being in quest of
Terrasso-weea, who seemed to be a great favourite in this place also.
We were then escorted to the outer gates, where, after the priests had
repeated some part of the Koran as an intercession for our success and
safety on our journey, we marched from Bidassoa, bearing N. 23° W., and
varying during our day’s journey to 45° and 10° W. The land now became
uneven and more rugged, with blocks of rock of a nature resembling
slate, different to any thing I had before observed.

At four miles we reached a small kroom, where I observed very fine
cattle, the land rising gently to the northwards, with shea-butter and
palm-trees, and a small river running to the south-west. There was also
abundance of very large buffaloes. A small market is held daily at
this kroom, which is chiefly dependent upon travellers, being near the
crossings of several paths leading to different large market-towns. The
principal articles sold are kolla-nuts, with several sorts of ground
beans and nuts, calavansas, and manioc-root, as well as kankie, ready
cooked. Palm-wine is also sold here at a low rate to the natives.

There appeared to be but little manufacture in this place, except a
few trifling articles of iron, and some wooden bowls, rudely carved
and ornamented. We only halted here for a short time. At seven miles
we passed through thick wood and swampy soil scarcely passable.
Fruit-trees of various sorts were now very abundant and in full
bearing, and very delicious and refreshing wild grapes hung in clusters
over our heads: these were the green grape. The gwaba and yellow fig
also abounded, with many other fruits with which I was unacquainted.

At ten miles we arrived at a kroom of about four hundred inhabitants.
Here we saw a large number of horses of a small description. They much
resembled our Hampshire foresters in shape, though a little finer
breed. They were sold in this market at the rate of four heads of
cowries, equal to four Spanish dollars on the west coast of Africa,
but are of much greater value in the interior. Here we halted for an
hour, and were tolerably well received by the caboceer, or head man,
who seemed very ready to gratify our curiosity by showing us round his
village.

The breed of cattle here is extremely handsome, and the sheep
considerably larger than those in the Kong Mountains. We were shown two
very large elephants, which had been taken near the swamp, where we
were told they much abound, though we did not observe any in crossing
it. I noticed a great number of female slaves, many of whom were very
handsome; they also appeared remarkably cheerful and pleasant in their
manner. Nightcaps are knitted by the natives in a similar manner to
those in Great Britain. The loom is also plied here, but not to a
great extent. Guinea fowls are very abundant, both in a wild and tame
state; partridges are also plentiful in the neighbourhood. Here, as in
nearly all other towns in this country, the kolla-nut seems a favourite
article of commerce.

We fortunately procured some dried venison, which is delicious in
flavour when made into soup, and seasoned with their different
vegetables, amongst which I may mention the chili as invariably their
principal seasoning. We gave in exchange for the venison treble its
value. Their method of drying is simple: it is cut into pieces,
dried before a large fire, and held occasionally in the smoke of
the iron-wood, which, from its chemical properties, is considered
preferable to any other sort of wood. Salt is never used, either in
drying fish or venison. We were, as usual, escorted out of this kroom
by the gadadoo, and again commenced our march.

The soil was again different, being of a moist sandy clay, and very
productive. Here I observed several large sycamore-trees, as well as
an ash, which was more rough in the bark than that of England. The
beautiful acacia is invariably an ornamental plant in the towns and
villages. As we passed I observed some very curious grasses, different
to any I had previously observed, as well as heaths, and shrubs bearing
fruits of various forms and flavour, but all of a yellow colour. They
were very delicious and refreshing.

At twenty miles we arrived at the small town of Kosow. This is a
pleasant little town, fenced in the usual way. Near the gates we
observed a number of females busily employed in thrashing the Guinea
corn on some flat rocks, by the side of a small lake or pond, but
upon our approach they fled precipitately, and ran into the town. We
remained, as customary, at the outer gate till the caboceer had been
made aware of our presence. During the time we remained here several
persons came within a few yards of us, apparently to obtain a sight of
us; but immediately I turned my head to look at them, both males and
females made a hasty retreat. The males were all armed both with bow
and spear.

In a short time the gadadoo made his appearance on horseback. His
little horse was richly caparisoned, with a very curious pad or
saddle, covering nearly the whole of the horse’s back. The border of
the shabrack was ornamented with letters or characters, apparently of
the Persian or Arabic. Here we were received with great solemnity,
although the venerable chief never suffered a smile to appear on his
countenance until the ceremony was over. We were then led, as usual,
into the palaver place, where we were supplied with seats carved out
of the solid wood. Here we were strictly interrogated respecting our
business in that country, to which I replied as I had to others. As
usual, my assumed knowledge of Terrasso-weea seemed to give tolerable
satisfaction; but a proposition was made that I should remain at Kosow
until a messenger should be forwarded to Terrasso-weea, with a desire
that he should meet me at Kosow. This proposal, however, I strongly
objected to as likely to give offence.

My opposition to his proposal did not altogether seem to meet the
chief’s approval. He next pretended to doubt whether we ought to be
allowed to pass through the country without the great king of the
country being made aware of our intentions. Again, however, the old man
failed in his object, for my Fellattah soldier informed him that the
great king of his country had already been made aware of our presence,
and had also sanctioned our march through his dominions.

Being thus frustrated at all points, the old man demanded what white
man was going to _dash_ him, or what present he was going to make
him. In return, I asked him what he intended to give me as a stranger
visiting his country. He answered, that no white man had ever been
in that country before, and it was very probable that no other might
ever come again, and he should like to have something to hand down to
his descendants as a memorial of a white man having once been there.
Gain seemed his only object, and his wish to forward a messenger to
Terrasso-weea was merely to detain me in order to have a chance of
obtaining presents. I gave him some new gilt buttons, and a large Jew’s
harp, as well as some needles, and two thimbles. I played several tunes
upon the Jew’s harp, with which he seemed much delighted.

He then introduced me to his harem, which was composed of about one
hundred and twenty females of considerable beauty, being much fairer
than any I had seen since leaving Abomey. Their features and figures
were very good, though their hair was woolly, but much longer than I
had before seen of the woolly tribes. These women were all enclosed
within a wall of about three feet and a half high. Some of them seemed
gratified, while others seemed quite the reverse; but the chief’s
females were not the only fair women in the place. The generality
of the inhabitants were equally as fair. I was offered my choice of
one for forty-two thousand cowries; but I informed the seller that I
was not at present in want of any slaves, or a wife. This surprised
him very much, for he declared that he himself could not live with
less than twenty wives, but that he had a very great many more. He
picked out his principal or favourite wife, to whom he introduced me,
doubtless with a view of obtaining some presents for her; but I could
not understand the hint, as I found my little stock fast decreasing.

After eating some of our dried venison with some roasted plantains, we
resumed our journey; and at twenty-five miles, arrived at the river
Ofo, but unfortunately we found no canoe, or anything to convert into
a raft, to cross it. We were consequently obliged to make preparations
for swimming across. One of my people carried a change of linen, and
two pair of light trowsers, and some other articles of hardware, as
presents, in a small carpet-bag. This we tied with the saddle to the
horse’s back. My little horse was an excellent companion in the water,
for, by holding the fastening rope of his headstall, he pulled me
across with a rapidity scarcely credible.

I had an American life-preserver, but that had already nearly drowned
me by bursting. I never, therefore, trusted to its buoyancy again. We
crossed the river in safety, but of course all our clothes were wet.
My bag on the horse’s back was quite wet upon the horse’s first plunge
into the water. The two soldiers also got their muskets wet, but saved
their powder, by placing it on their havresacks, and tying them on
their head. My ammunition was also preserved dry in consequence of
keeping it in a water-tight case.

Immediately after we had crossed the river, two men from Kosow made
their appearance. The caboceer had made no mention of this river, and
he undoubtedly expected, by sending men after us, to ferry us across
at an enormous charge. It appeared that the caboceer of Kosow keeps
a canoe for the purpose of ferrying people across the river, but it
is placed at a small kroom, about half a mile higher up the river.
Travellers with heavy loads cannot cross this river without employing
the canoe. The men seemed much disappointed when they found that we
had already crossed. The river Ofo is here thirty-five yards wide, and
twenty feet deep, with a sandy bottom. The current is three miles and a
half per hour, and runs in a south-east direction.

To ascertain the depth of rivers, I had prepared a lead with a bullet,
boring a hole through it; through this I passed a small line of twine,
leaving the lower side of the bullet countersunk; into this a piece
of goat’s tallow is pressed. The twine is then passed through a very
thin piece of wood about five inches square. If the river is very wide,
and the crossing made by canoe, the line of course may be dropped over
board as on board ship, but if you are obliged to swim, the ball and
wood may be dropped on the water. The bullet of course sinks to the
bottom, and draws the twine through the hole in the wood at the same
time, till it reaches the bottom; the line being marked into feet, the
depth is accurately ascertained. If a river is not more than forty
yards wide, it may also be measured in the same way, by throwing the
wood and ball into the middle of the river; taking care to coil the
line carefully up previously to throwing it.

The banks of the river Ofo are low, not being more than three feet
above the surface of the water. We remained on the bank of this river
till we dried our clothes. Here we also cooked some provisions,
and cleaned our guns. We then again resumed our journey; and, at
twenty-eight miles, arrived at the large town of Kasso-Kano. This
town is well built, and the houses well thatched. There are three
market-days in the week here: this happened to be one of them, and
though the afternoon was far advanced, the dealers were busily
employed. Slaves were abundant, and many parents were publicly offering
their children for sale, numbers of them not more than eleven or twelve
years of age. They showed their slaves off, and purchasers scrutinized
them with as much care as our horse-dealers at an English fair.

Here the women are modest and handsome, the men generally tall, thin,
and sinewy. They are apparently very jealous of their women, and
naturally covetous and suspicious, and moreover great thieves. The
chief is a shrewd, cunning fellow, and, like all others in the same
office, seems to monopolize in a great measure the greater portion of
the trade in all articles of consumption.

The hills in this neighbourhood abound with iron, and another mineral
substance resembling coal, but this mineral is not so abundant: it is
probably antimony. I have forgotten its name. It was brought on board
in small pieces (the largest not more than half an inch square) during
the late Niger expedition, but it was extremely dear. It is used as and
considered an infallible cure for inflammation in the eye, by merely
rubbing it round it.

Here I had an opportunity of observing their system of smelting ore.
The furnace is composed of finely-worked clay, nearly as hard as Roman
cement. The dye-vats are composed of the same substance; the furnace is
built of a circular form, and of about five or six feet diameter, and
about eight feet high. From the top to the middle the furnace tapers
inwards to the centre in the form of a funnel; it again widens from
the middle to the bottom. At the bottom are fixed two pair of bellows,
which are covered nearly over with earth, and kept constantly wet. The
bellows are formed by cutting two large round holes in a large block of
wood of the cotton-tree. The handles of the bellows are about a yard
long, and about the thickness of the barrel of a musket. These are
fixed into the centre of a circular piece of leather or hide at one
end. This piece of hide is sufficiently large to cover the hole in the
block of wood: it is put over this hole, and nailed round the edges.
Besides the apertures there are two smaller holes, bored through the
sides of the block to communicate with the large hole forming the body
of the bellows. Over the mouth of the small hole, where it communicates
with the body of the bellows, is a stopper or valve, which shuts close
on the hole when the handle is pressed down. The two leather covers,
being very loose, are raised up and down alternately, upon the same
principle as the bellows used in England.

The man who blows takes the handles (which are perpendicular,) in
each hand, and raises one hand up, and at the same time presses the
other down, so that with the two bellows a constant blast is kept
up. The pipe is frequently made of a sort of clay, similar to that
used in coarse earthenware; but when such things can be procured, old
gun-barrels, which have burst on the coast, not unfrequently find their
way into the interior, and are sold at a very high price for this
purpose. Guns in good condition are never suffered to pass into the
interior, if the chiefs on or near the coast can prevent it.

But to describe the furnace: iron-wood charcoal, when it can be
procured, is used for fuel. The furnace is then filled with a layer
of charcoal and iron alternately, and then the fire is lighted at
the bottom, and the blowing commences. Two and sometimes three hours
elapse before a melting heat can be produced. The melting of the ore of
course commences nearest the blower, and the fused metal falls into the
bottom of the furnace, when some more ore supplies the place of that
which is already melted. When the whole is melted, a stopper is drawn
to let the liquid iron run into long narrow moulds, which have again to
be melted previously to becoming fit for the hammer. This was the most
efficient furnace I had yet seen, and the iron seemed remarkably tough
and pliable. They seem ignorant of the method of hardening it, though
swords and spear-heads, as well as arrow-heads, are manufactured in
Kassokano.

The natives made several attempts to steal my camp-kettle, but my
interpreter told them, as I clapped my hand to my sword, that I never
hesitated to chop off an arm or a head, if I caught any one stealing
my property. They told him he must not talk of cutting arms or heads
off where we were only intruding strangers; but my interpreter assured
them, that if their numbers were ten times more than they were, a
white man cared not. If any man does him wrong, he kills him by some
evil art, if not by the sword. Although this assertion was of course
ridiculous, it appeared to have the desired effect.

After the gadadoo had finished his business, he again joined us, as we
were lying down under a large tree, in the market-place. He offered
us a hut during the remaining part of the night, but we found it so
filthy, as to be uninhabitable, being merely a shed where the slaves
had been kept for sale during the day. Both myself and men felt much
annoyed at this, and we determined to leave the town, and encamp
somewhere in the bush. We gave the gadadoo some small presents, but he
seemed to have expected much more. I peremptorily refused to extend my
gifts, and took my departure very abruptly, to proceed on my journey,
never intimating any thing of my intention of encamping near the town.

We passed out of the town at the northern having entered at the
southern gate, the path bearing N. 30° W., and at two miles from the
town we turned some distance out of the path, where we found some
rocks, and behind these we encamped for the night, but did not kindle
a fire, lest we might be observed. Early in the morning I aroused my
poor fellows, who were evidently beginning to show symptoms of having
been over-marched; and, though I rode a great part of the distance, I
found the wound in my leg getting every day larger. Still I determined
to pursue my journey, and though my poor companions had several times
hinted that the safest course was to turn back, I remembered the old
adage, recommended by Captain Beaufort of the Admiralty, never to put
my hand to the plough and look backward. I felt much for my men, but
I dared not say any thing, lest they should take a resolution not to
proceed.


FOOTNOTES:

[13] Assofoodah contains about twelve thousand inhabitants.

[14] Granaries of a similar construction have been noticed in the
neighbourhood of Whydah.




                              CHAPTER VI.

 Peculiar Breed of Dogs--The Town of Zabakano--Market
 Day--Native Manufactures--Domestic Slaves--Palm Oil--Joleeba,
 or Niger--Horses make part of the Family--Pelican
 Nest--Pigeons--Kindness of the Gadadoo--Pigeon Shooting--Palaver
 with the Gadadoo--Population--Mounted Soldiers--Character of
 the Scenery--Grooba--Manufactures--The Town of Sagbo--Drilling
 System general here--Two sorts of Rice--Received by the Gadadoo
 with great Pomp--Palaver--Dromedary and Elephant--Prevalent
 Diseases--The Town of Jakee--Reception--Ancient Custom--Breakfast
 of the Natives--Manufactures--Terror of the Natives--Chalybeate
 Springs--The River Jenoo--The Land Tortoise--Interesting Panorama--The
 Town of Kallakandi--Reception by the Sheik--Palaver--Band of
 Musicians--Peculiar Instruments--Manufactures, &c.--Slave
 Market--Horses--Laws-Cruel Punishment--Population--Attack on a
 Boa-Constrictor--Manufactures--Deer--Method of Preserving Meat
 and Fish--Trap for Wild Animals--Town of Ongo--Reception by the
 Caboceer--Interesting Aspect of the Country.


July 29th.--We kindled a fire, and made breakfast, and at sunrise we
again commenced our journey from the neighbourhood of Kassokano. The
country was much of the same character as that we had recently passed.
Here I observed a particular species of dogs, much coarser than those
in the Kong Mountains, where the breed is very much like the British
greyhound though not so large. After passing over several small
streams of good water, of which we had each a hearty draught, we, at
seven miles, arrived at the large town of Zabakano. Here the King met
me, and escorted me with two hundred horsemen. He was well acquainted,
it appeared, with the priest Terrasso-weea.

This town is beautifully situated, commanding a view of the surrounding
country to a great distance. The people seem cheerful and contented.
This was one of the principal market-days, consequently I had an
opportunity of observing the supplies of the different articles of
trade and consumption. It was well supplied with native produce, and a
greater quantity of rice was exposed than in any other market I have
visited in Africa. Here, also, I was shown a large quantity of armlets
and bracelets, manufactured with considerable taste and skill in
Bornou, and brought thither by Terrasso-weea’s trading party. Tanning
and dyeing are also executed skilfully; and sandals and a peculiar
sort of slippers are here manufactured, similar to those we found in
Tangiers.

The chief possesses a great number of domestic slaves, but sells none
of them. They are chiefly employed in trading with the surrounding
towns and in tilling the soil, which is in a high state of
cultivation, to a considerable distance round. Palm-oil is manufactured
here, and is actually transported, by the tributary navigable streams,
to the Niger, or Joleeba, the name by which it is here known. Here
it is not known either by the name of Quarra or Niger, but this
circumstance is not at all surprising, for I find that all the rivers
have different names in the various countries through which they flow.
I have also, in many instances, found two places with the same name,
at no very great distance from each other; but, in fact, the same may
be observed in our own country. Native iron and nitre were abundant in
this market.

Horses here invariably make part of the family, being fastened to a peg
driven into the ground or floor, by the hind foot, having only about a
foot of rope. The children are often seen playing between the legs of
the animal, with which it seems much pleased, often nibbling at their
heads with its lips, or licking their faces, as a spaniel would.

The chief seemed very anxious to acquaint us with every thing which
might tend to our gratification; and, though he was the principal
trader himself, he accompanied us through every part of the town. Close
to the town is a lake, supplied partly by a small stream, and partly
by the heavy rains during the season. On this lake were a number of
large trees, upon which were the nests of the pelican, a great number
of which we saw roosting on the branches. I had never seen the nest
of the pelican on a tree since I was in Egga, a town on the banks
of the Niger, when I was there with the late unfortunate expedition
under Captain Trotter. I then shot several on the trees; but here, at
Zabakano, the inhabitants had an objection to my killing any of them; I
could not therefore secure a specimen. Pigeons were very numerous here,
both the wood-pigeon and the turtle-dove. The chief did not object to
my shooting these, so I soon secured sufficient for my party for this
and the following day. We were obliged to cook them immediately.

We were, however, very kindly treated by the chief or gadadoo, who
strongly urged us to remain a day with him. This kind treatment seemed
to inspire my poor fellows with fresh courage and animation; in fact,
it seemed to act as a fresh stimulus to all of us. The natives were
quite delighted with the sport of pigeon-shooting, for one or two of
them were acquainted with such guns as had found their way to this
town, and several others in the neighbourhood, but of the locks they
had no idea; for guns are not allowed to be brought here by way of
trade in a perfect state, and even were they, still without powder
they would be useless.

The chief has a very large number of wives, but the principal portion
of them are merely employed as his domestic slaves, as indeed are all
the wives of the uncivilized Africans. The civilized portion is very
limited, even on the coast. The gadadoo made me a very liberal offer
for my carbine, but I told him that it would not be of so much service
to him as his bow or sabre, unless he had a supply of ammunition; that
as I had visited his country partly with a view to ascertain what
articles would be most likely to suit their markets, I should, as
soon as possible, return with a large stock of suitable merchandise.
A story like this was much more likely to be believed amongst savages
than any other excuse I could make for visiting their country. If told
that my object was merely for scientific purposes, they would not have
understood me, and would have been more likely to look upon me with
suspicion, as they cannot believe any body can take interest about any
thing not of a pecuniary nature.

This town contains about nine thousand inhabitants; it is clean and
open, but I was informed that after the conclusion of the rainy season
fever and small-pox are very prevalent. Small-pox is much dreaded
by the natives, and seems to be the principal disease here. I have
not observed one case of elephantiasis since leaving Accra, although
at Whydah a disease of a similar nature is prevalent, affecting the
head, and not unfrequently enlarging the forehead and eyebrows so much
as totally to obscure vision. This distortion of nature, as may be
supposed, has an extremely repulsive appearance.

After remaining about an hour and a half, I gave the gadadoo some small
presents, which he received with apparent satisfaction. He and his head
men, as well as his two hundred mounted soldiers, then conveyed me some
distance from the town, going through their manœuvres of attack at the
same time. This was merely a wild rush without any order or discipline,
and so far from their being (as has been represented) a formidable
force, ten well-mounted and well-disciplined horsemen would easily
annihilate the whole party.

Here we parted from the most generous and affable chief we had met
with since leaving the Mountains of Kong. During this day’s journey,
our bearing changed from N. 45° W. to 12° 10°, 35°, 43°, and due West
(true). The country now became very pleasant, and the path not so
rough under foot. Around us in different directions were numerous
hills, giving a relief to the dull sameness of a flat, dreary plain.
We crossed several small clear streams, some of which had worn their
channels nine or ten feet deep.

At fourteen miles we arrived at the small town of Grooba. Here the
old chief, or head man, received us very kindly; doubtless, he had
received a message which prompted this friendly reception. This town is
clean and neat for an African town. The only manufacture of note here
is cotton tobes, but different in pattern to the cloths manufactured
in the Kong Mountains, which are invariably striped with various
colours; but here the cloth is all either blue or white, similar to
the tobes worn by the Mandingo traders who visit Sierra Leone. Here
the blacksmith plies his trade, but only for the accommodation of the
inhabitants of the town. A sort of cloth is also manufactured from the
inner bark of a certain tree, which is very strong and durable, and of
various colours. This when woven into cloth has a very rich appearance;
long sashes or girdles of the same material are worn by most of the
influential persons.

At seventeen miles we halted by a small stream and kindled a fire,
where we cooked some of our pigeons, and had an excellent dinner. We
afterwards resumed our journey, and at twenty-eight miles arrived at
the town of Sagbo. Around this town the country is well cultivated, and
the drilling system seemed generally adopted. This is, doubtless, an
advantage during the rainy season. Four different sorts of maize are
cultivated here, as well as two sorts of rice, white and red. Here they
have a better mode of cleaning and preparing the rice for use than any
other place I have yet visited. The kolla-nut is abundant, as also the
palm and shea-butter nut. Indigo is cultivated, and rudely manufactured
in nearly all the towns we passed since leaving the Mahee country.

The chief and his head men and bowmen received us in a similar manner
as at other places, with great pomp and solemnity, his priests taking
the lead in conducting us into the market-place, advancing at a slow
pace and repeating some select portion from the Koran. This ceremony,
upon the whole, reminded me of a funeral procession in England. After
we reached the palaver place in the market, we were invited to sit
down, and water was handed to us. Nothing else, however, of a liquid
nature was offered us. We were, as usual, interrogated as to our
purpose in visiting the country. These questions I answered to the
same effect as I had previously done. My reply seemed to give general
satisfaction. The chief was surrounded by bowmen and spearmen, many of
whom were very fine-looking men. During this time, the chief, or sheik,
as he is here called, amused himself by playing with his beard, rather
an uncommon ornament amongst these people, and highly esteemed. We were
presented with two fowls by one of the head men, to whom in return I
gave two papers of needles.

This town is well supplied with good water, and the cattle, both sheep
and oxen, are very handsome; the horses are small, but well bred. The
dromedary and elephant are here to be met with tame. The sugar-cane
is also cultivated, and very large, but not manufactured. The liquor
after boiling the cane is used mixed with the meal of the Indian corn,
instead of, or rather as we use tea or coffee; sometimes a little
ginger, which grows here spontaneously, is added to it. This is a very
wholesome and palatable beverage.

Here the small-pox had made dreadful havoc amongst the inhabitants,
and was still destroying numbers daily. The sheik or chief took great
interest in my recommendation to inoculate from the cow-pox, and
several times put the question to me, whether I could not myself
perform the operation, and instruct his doctors, of whom he has a
great number. I excused myself for want of material, or matter. The
inhabitants vary very much in colour, which proves the undoubted
mixture of the tribes from distant countries. The greater part of the
inhabitants of Sagbo are very dark, tall, and well formed. The general
development of their cranium is good; they are very keen traders,
cheerful and affable, and nearly all Mahomedans.

I was, as usual, obliged to draw on my little stock, which was now
fast diminishing, and to give a few needles and a thimble, as well
as a Jew’s harp, to the chief, who deemed the Jew’s harp a wonderful
piece of consecrated iron. We then recommenced our journey, the country
bearing the same very pleasant aspect, and with trees a little larger
than I had met with during my last four days’ journey.

After a rather tiresome march, we arrived, at thirty-eight miles, at
the town of Jakee. The chief of this town is subject to the chief of
Sagbo, who directs or governs six large towns in his own locality. It
appeared that a private messenger had been despatched from Sagbo to
inform the chief of this town of my coming. The same messenger was
with the chief of Jakee when he met me half a mile from the town. The
old man received me with marked courtesy, and without much ceremony we
were conducted into his court-yard.

As it was getting late, and we had expressed our intention of remaining
all night, the chief readily showed us an apartment or hut, in his
own court-yard, where we were to repose for the night; and upon our
informing him of our long journey, he seemed to sympathize with us,
and in a great measure dispensed with the usual palaver, but joined
us in our quarters, where he seemed delighted to receive information
respecting white man’s country, and also of the country we had passed
through. He expressed his great surprise that a man should venture so
far from his home and relations, and run the risk of casualties in so
many strange lands. This man had by some means heard of the unfortunate
Niger expedition, probably from Terrasso-weea, with whom he has been
long acquainted. He took great interest in the trade of his own town,
and expressed a great desire to know by what means he might increase
it. We were rather annoyed during the early part of the evening by
numerous curious visitors who came to have a peep at us, and some
watchfulness was required, though we had little to be robbed of;
however, it was the more necessary to preserve the little we had got.

30th July.--Early in the morning we were aroused by the ringing of a
number of bells or gong-gongs, which, in accordance with an ancient
custom, are rung round the town every morning at day-break to apprise
the inhabitants that it is time to get up. These gong-gongs are used
also to give the alarm in case of any sudden attack upon the town. As
soon as this procession had passed, the chief paid us a visit, and
inquired very kindly after our health. We were supplied with a quantity
of the juice of the sugar-cane, and some meal mixed with it, about the
consistence of gruel. Upon this we made a hearty breakfast, with the
addition of some round balls, about the size of a potato, made from an
under-ground bean, which is very abundant in this country. This bean
is ground into meal and made into round balls. It is then fried in an
earthen pot with palm-oil, and used for food. It is of a tolerably good
flavour.

After distributing some needles and Jew’s harps, we recommenced our
journey. During this day our bearing varied from N. 25° W. to 12°, 35°,
40°, and 22° N. towards W. At six miles we arrived at a small market
on the path for the sale of provisions to travellers. Here they also
sold water, which is at all times a bad omen for travellers, as showing
its scarcity. We secured a calabash filled with water for a paper of
needles, which seemed to take well in this part of the country. We
were, however, happily mistaken in our fears respecting water in this
instance, for, at ten miles, we arrived at a small village called
Kiroaso, where we found plenty of good water. This kroom is famous
for its tan-pits and dye-vats: the inhabitants of several towns at a
distance visit this place for the purpose of dyeing their cloths and
thread. Besides the indigo, they have a yellow and red colour which
they manufacture, with which they dye both leather and cloth. Here the
natives carve quantities of wooden bowls out of the cotton-tree with
considerable taste. They seemed much alarmed at our presence, many of
them running away upon our approach. As soon, however, as they learned
that we were friends, they returned and would soon have become too
familiar. We remained here only a short time, and then resumed our
journey; and, at nineteen miles, arrived at the Kabra Mountains, along
the sides of which we travelled, passing several small krooms or towns
at their base, some of which we entered.

We found here several chalybeate springs, strongly impregnated with
carbonate of iron of a deep orange colour. At twenty-five miles we
arrived at the river Jenoo. This river is navigable by large canoes at
all seasons of the year. It runs to the eastward, and is fordable at
this season by persons on foot, not exceeding three feet and a half
deep, with sandy bottom, and not more than twelve yards wide, with a
current not exceeding two miles per hour. Fish, however, are not very
abundant, as the natives are unacquainted with the method of catching
them; I observed, therefore, very few for sale. It is rather singular
that the conchology of all the inland rivers in this part of Africa is
very limited, a sort of mussel being the only shell which I observed.

Of the crustaceous tribes a sort of shrimp or prawn is the only thing
I noticed. The land-tortoise, however, is abundant on the banks of
rivers, and is used by the natives for food. Having halted a short time
after crossing the river, we again resumed our journey, passing amongst
some beautiful shrubs and sweet-scented climbing plants, whose blossoms
spread a sweet odour for a considerable distance. We marched some miles
through this interesting panorama before we again reached the open
plain. Here the soil again assumed a lighter colour, of a gravelly
nature, and studded with trees of various kinds. The soil and small
brooks still proved the presence of iron.

At thirty-four miles we arrived at the town of Kallakandi. Here we were
tolerably well received by the sheik, or gadadoo, who seems intrusted
with the government of a certain district of considerable extent. It
appeared that he had only obtained intelligence of our approach a
little while previous to our arrival, and was therefore flurried, and a
little cautious and reserved in receiving us; but being acquainted with
our object of overtaking Terrasso-weea, he became at once familiar,
and informed us that he had occupied, with all his retinue, the very
quarters assigned to me for the night.

We entered into conversation or palaver, which continued until dark. He
seemed very intelligent, and had by his own account been at Timbuctoo,
and gave exactly the same account of the place as the Mahomedan priest
at Abomey, who stated he had accompanied Terrasso-weea thither. The
sheik very kindly sent us two ducks of the Muscovy breed to cook for
our supper, as also two yams and some corn, with plenty of good water.
He again joined us after supper, seeming eager to obtain information.
At length he proposed to retire, which was very agreeable to us, for we
were very tired. He promised to call us early in the morning, to which
arrangement he was very punctual, for certainly he aroused us some time
sooner than we wished. This being market-morning, the town was all
bustle.

Soon after we had been aroused by the gadadoo, we were visited by
a band of singing women, who were accompanied by musicians, with
instruments very similar to our German flute, made from the hollow
cane and bottle-shaped gourds, with the pulpy part taken out and
dried, with hundreds of human teeth strung together like beads, and
loosely fastened like net-work over the gourd, which were shaken in
the hand, keeping time to the other instruments used in the native
bands of music: a similar instrument is used in Dahomey. Prostration on
addressing a superior is common here, though they do not rub themselves
with dust as in Dahomey or the Mahee country. I took a short ramble
round the town and market-places, both the outer and inner.

Here I had an opportunity of observing the articles of commerce exposed
for sale, which, however, differed very little from those I have
already mentioned in other places. Smiths’ work is done here in a
superior manner to most other towns I have visited. Axes and bill-hooks
are made here; the axe is made to fit into the handle, instead of the
handle into the axe, the crown or pole of the axe being made like a
spike, and driven into a hole passed through the end of the handle.
They are also excellent farmers. The weavers also display considerable
taste in the manufacture of a peculiar sort of cloth I have not
observed elsewhere but in Abomey.

Slaves were exposed in the outer market in great numbers, and early in
the morning considerable numbers had changed owners. Sheep, goats, and
oxen, are numerous, and very handsome. Horses are handsome also, but
small, few exceeding thirteen hands high. Pigeons are numerous in this
town, and are of various kinds. The vulture is common in all the towns
in this country. The government may be said to be quite despotic, for
though a certain power is pretended to be vested in the chief malaam,
or minister, still every objection is overruled in acquiescence with
the will of the sovereign.

Offenders against the laws are punished according to the estimated
enormity of their crimes, by flagellation or imprisonment in irons,
and labour in the fields; but all serious offences, such as those
against the king, murder, and adultery with the wives of superiors,
are punished by death and torture of the most barbarous description.
Sometimes a pole, about six feet long, is prepared, with an iron hose
fixed on the end of it; the iron being tapered to a long spike. This
spike is made red-hot, and the culprit, being suddenly seized, is
placed on his head with his legs or feet upwards. The spike, while
red-hot, is passed into the lower part of his person and the bowels,
and even to the crown of his head.[15] This mode of torture is only
resorted to in cases of adultery with the king’s or malaam’s wives.
Sometimes another mode of torture for similar offences is resorted to,
equally barbarous and cruel--that of mutilation, and placing it in the
mouth of the offender.

After promising to make a longer stay on my return, I marched from
Kallakandi, this being the 31st of July, bearing N. 22° westward;
during the day’s journey varying from 22° to 5°, 10°, 5°, and 12°
degrees to westward. The country near the town was well cultivated. At
seven miles we crossed a narrow river running eastward; and at twelve
miles arrived at the town of Gooba. This is also a great market for
the sale and purchase of slaves. Here salt is sold, but at a very high
price, though of a very coarse and dirty description.

The town is governed by a malaam, named Dibo or Dibbo. He, however, is
under the directions of the gadadoo of Kallakandi. The inhabitants of
this town are about seven thousand in number, and seem a mixture of
many tribes, which is easily detected by the cranium, independent of
the particular marks or scars on the face to distinguish each tribe
from the other. They seem to live in ease and plenty, having little
trouble in cultivating the soil, which here produces four crops in the
year of several sorts of grain.

We remained here only a short time, when, after making a present of a
pair of small scissors for some water, with which we were presented,
we resumed our journey. At fourteen miles, while crossing a swamp of
no great magnitude, we were met by a number of women, heavily laden
with different articles of produce for the market which we had just
left. They were accompanied by several men, who walked in the rear.
The women we found had been much alarmed a minute before, but seemed
still more so at meeting me, some of the younger women endeavouring to
pass into the thick impenetrable bush, which extended about half a mile
along each side of the path. The men also seemed much alarmed, and the
older of them, who were armed with bows and arrows, prepared themselves
for an attack. However, they preferred submission, prostrating
themselves as we passed. I requested them to rise, and after asking
them how they were, they informed us of the extreme danger of passing
any farther, till an enormous snake which they had just met should
retire. They stated that this reptile had taken up his position in a
large tamarind-tree, whence they said he had been in all probability
compelled to retreat after a combat with a panther, which they said
invariably practised one particular mode of attack. Whenever they come
unexpectedly upon one of these reptiles, they pounce upon its tail, and
thus prevent it from coiling itself round its prey. Then with its claw
it secures the head, which is immediately brought round to release its
tail. However, I never witnessed an attack of this sort, and must leave
my readers to judge of the truth of this assertion. One of the party
offered to go back and show us the enormous snake, and several others
of the party volunteered their services also.

Accordingly we proceeded about six hundred yards, when we arrived at
the velvet tamarind-tree, which they had spoken of, and which was
thickly covered with leaves; but upon examining the tree we could
not observe anything of the nature described. When I was just upon
the point of accusing them of hoaxing us, one of them, who stood a
little behind my horse, suddenly called out “waroo-waroo,” upon which
one of my soldiers seized my bridle to pull my horse aside, and to
my amazement the monster was pointed out to me with part of its body
coiled round a bough, and its head and a considerable part of its body
hanging down very near our heads.

It appeared this reptile had descended the tamarind, and had ascended a
much larger tree of a different description. I immediately dismounted,
and unstrapped my double-barrelled carbine, which was heavily charged,
one barrel with swan-shot, and the other with smaller shot. The snake
was certainly of enormous dimensions, and remained quite motionless.
I took a steady aim at the neck, just behind its head, and fired the
charge of slugs effectually, though for some time it seemed to have
but a slight effect upon it, for it raised its head, and coiled the
fore-part of the body round another branch of the tree; but the
spine being injured, it soon appeared to lose strength, and the tail,
which was coiled round a limb, began to relax. It again uncoiled its
fore-part, which hung down towards the ground. I then took my sword,
which I had sharpened equal to a razor, and cut the head off at one
stroke; but even then the people would not venture to touch it with
their hands to pull it down, till I gave them a piece of small cord,
which I invariably carried in my pocket. This was fastened round the
body, and they then succeeded in pulling it down.

The monster was of the boa tribe, and measured thirty-one feet long,
but the natives told me they had seen them much larger. My gun and
sword excited great astonishment amongst the strangers, who were very
anxious again to hear the noise. They seemed to fancy that it was
the noise which killed the object the muzzle of the gun was directed
towards; this I did not contradict. Here we were detained nearly an
hour, when we again commenced our march, I and my people keeping a
cautious look-out lest some more of our late antagonist’s companions
might be in our immediate neighbourhood.

We were soon clear of the bush, and our adventure speedily forgotten.
At sixteen miles we arrived at a small kroom, the houses of which were
all built of a circular form, the walls covered with a deep red clay,
and many of the principal houses ornamented with different figures and
hieroglyphics. The chief manufacture in this kroom is earthen pots of a
superior description and jet-black polish. Pipes, or rather pipe-heads,
are also manufactured here, though little tobacco reaches this place;
but I learned that these pipes are sent even to Badagry. Their form is
like the meerschaum. The natives also manufacture a very ingenious sort
of lamp, in which palm-oil is used.

The chief of this kroom had in his possession a pot which attracted my
notice. It was of copper, and evidently of Spanish manufacture. It had
been in the possession of his family, it appeared, for many years, but
he could not inform me from whom they had obtained it. There exists
in this neighbourhood a species of small black deer, not larger than
a small English terrier, some of which are here domesticated like the
goat.

The country also abounds with larger deer of different descriptions,
one of which I this day had the satisfaction of shooting, having
cautiously crept behind a bush very near to him. There were a doe and
fawn of the same description, at a short distance, grazing. This
chance would have supplied us with plenty of venison for consumption
for several days could we have kept it fresh. What we did not require
the first day we broiled in the smoke, and kept it very well for the
second day. This is the method adopted by the natives in drying and
preserving both meat and fish. Even when a human head is desired to
be preserved, the brains are extracted through the spinal connexion
and the head held on the end of a stick in the smoke till it becomes
quite hard and dry. I have seen some thousands preserved in this way in
Dahomey.

Wild carnivorous animals are very numerous here, and often make awful
havoc amongst the stock of cattle, though traps of various inventions
are employed (some of which would do credit to English ingenuity) to
destroy them. An immense beam, with long spikes of hard wood fixed in
it, is suspended about seven feet high. This beam rests on a pivot at
each end. When the animal passes under and between the two pivots,
he treads upon a lever which throws the beam off the pivots, and it
falls with full weight on the animal, forcing the spikes their full
length into its body. They have also man-traps of a very singular
construction: these, though simple, are the most efficient I ever saw.
They are always placed in situations where none but trespassers can
be injured. This trap is generally set in a fence, so that a person
climbing over must come in contact with a certain part of it, which
secures a piece of wood connected with another of about seven feet
long, which latter is bent about two feet out of its natural position.
The slightest touch releases this, and the spring resumes its natural
position in a moment. In doing so it strikes the intruder on the shins
with such violence as frequently to break both legs.

At twenty-six miles we arrived at the town of Ongo, where we found the
chief awaiting our arrival, about half a mile out of the town, with
a number of horsemen and spearmen. Upon perceiving us he immediately
advanced towards us at a gallop, the spearmen keeping pace with the
others, though on foot. When within a few yards of us the whole
cavalcade suddenly halted, and the chief and his principal officers
dismounted, and all, except himself, prostrated themselves, remaining
in that position till they were told to rise. The chief merely held
out his hand, repeating the words, “Sinou, sinou,” which means, _How
are you?--how are you?_--and gave my hand a hearty shake, bidding us
welcome to his town. He said he had been made aware of our approach,
and had prepared himself to meet us. He declared himself glad to see a
white man, Terrasso-weea, he stated, was his particular friend, and had
a white man with him, but not a proper white man like myself. He told
me that Terrasso-weea’s trading party were all good men, and were his
brothers, meaning that they were all Mahomedans.

Here we remained to cook some provisions. We were fortunate enough to
obtain in exchange for a pair of scissors some good yams and a small
grass bag of rice, containing about a pound. We also got plenty of
water, which was tolerably good, but of a bitterish taste. This is
frequently the case when the water is stagnant, and a certain sort of
wood grows on its margin. Whether this is injurious or not I am not
able to say, as I did not experience any evil effects myself, nor any
of my party, from its use. The country now became delightful, and the
monotony of a dreary plain was relieved at intervals by table mountains
in various directions, nearly all of one height, not exceeding nine
thousand feet.

This place is neatly built for an African town, and with considerable
regularity of formation as regards the market-places for the sale of
different commodities. The houses are very clean, and are ornamented
with various designs, similar to those I have just described. The
horse, as I have already said, invariably forms a part of the family,
and is treated much better than on the coast, where they are not bred,
but brought from the interior. Even here, however, many of the poor
animals are very lean for want of sufficient food, as they are always
tied by the foot, and are never allowed their liberty.


FOOTNOTES:

[15] This cruel punishment is also common at Lagos.




                             CHAPTER VII.

 Ongo--Weariness of my Attendants--Bivouac--Alarm of my Horse at
 the Neighbourhood of Wild Beasts--Terror of the Natives--Their
 Kindness--Establishment for Mahomedan Converts--Singular Custom--My
 Anxiety to find Terrasso-weea, who had been present at the Death of
 Mungo Park--Loss of my Sand-glass--Its Construction--Adofoodia--The
 Market-Place--Reception by the King--Interview with
 Terrasso-weea--Ceremony of welcoming me--His Stores--Discovery of
 an Old Acquaintance--Narrative of his Adventures--Terrasso-weea’s
 House--His Wives--Inquire of him Particulars of the Fate
 of Mungo Park--His Relation of the Death of that Intrepid
 Traveller--Terrasso-weea an Eye Witness of it--Park’s Property seized
 by the King--His Despotic Character--Flight of Terrasso-weea--My
 Palaver with the King--Hospitality of the Merchant--Information
 obtained respecting Timbuctoo--Market of Adofoodia.


After leaving the town of Ongo we were met by several women carrying
fowls and water yams. Some of these we were fortunate enough to
purchase, in exchange for some needles and thimbles. We had now an
excellent stock of provision, and we kept the fowls alive till we
should require them for consumption. My poor fellows began to complain
much of sore feet and fatigue, telling me that “black master only
want man go long way when he make war one day; but white man make
poor black man walk plenty every day till him belly sore; then soon
black man die.” No doubt my poor fellows were extremely tired, as I
was myself, though I rode more than half the distance. I felt much for
them, and sometimes showed them the wound on my leg, and asked them how
they could complain when a white man, and in their hot country, could
stand the march with such a wound; but their reply was invariably,
“White man different to black man; _black man lie down and die, suppose
his leg bad like mine_.”

At thirty-three miles I proposed to encamp for the night. This proposal
was readily assented to by my tired companions. We accordingly selected
a convenient spot at some little distance from the path, where we
kindled a fire, having plenty of wood close at hand. We soon prepared a
good mess, and having also cut some grass for my horse, and given him a
few heads of corn, which we had saved from the previous night, we all
began, like the natives, to eat at the same table, and in a short time
fell fast asleep. Having left a good fire, we were not afraid of wild
beasts approaching us while the fire continued to burn brightly, but
serpents are very apt to come where there is fire. In fact, the natives
often make large fires for the purpose of attracting a certain species
of snake, which, when the fire is extinguished, feast greedily on the
ashes.

Though snakes did not trouble us, we were, however, about midnight,
suddenly alarmed by the snorting and pawing of my horse, who actually
bit my foot, to which he was tied, purposely to awaken me. To our great
surprise we found that the horse’s alarm had been caused by a large
species of wolf, which had no doubt been attracted by the smell of the
horse, which had observed it prowling in our immediate neighbourhood;
there it still remained, making at intervals most tremendous howls. I
fired off one of my pistols; after which we heard no more of him, but
took our position nearer to the fire. I was soon compelled to change
my position, however, for my horse having a propensity for scratching
the fire abroad, scraped some of the fire amongst us, burning some of
our clothes. Notwithstanding this we were again soon asleep, and had a
tolerably good rest until day-break.

I now found one of my Sierra Leone men shivering violently from great
fatigue, the heavy dew, and the considerable quantity of rain which
had also fallen in the former part of the night. I felt rather chilly
myself, and sick at the stomach, but dared not let my men know it, lest
they should be disheartened. I gave the poor fellow some quinine, and
also took some myself. In an hour afterwards I gave him some James’s
powder, and twenty drops of Battley’s sedative of opium, which soon
caused him to throw out a copious perspiration, and the shivering
entirely ceased. Owing to this circumstance we did not commence our
journey till we had breakfasted. Having a small calabash of native
honey, which we had carried with us in case of illness, I put a portion
of it in some hot water, but having no meal we were obliged to use
water and honey alone. This materially aided the medicine in promoting
perspiration, and we were soon all right again.

On the 1st of August we again resumed our journey, bearing N., and
varying during this day’s journey to 10° towards W., in expectation
of soon seeing our long-wished-for friend. This morning’s march
seemed rather irksome, as we proceeded full ten miles without meeting
any person of whom to inquire which was the right path; and several
by-paths communicating with the direct one, we were not aware which
to select. Fortunately we had taken the right path, by choosing the
one apparently most beaten, as we found by inquiry of a party whom we
overtook at the crossing of a path, resting under the shade of a large
tree. They seemed much alarmed, and several of them fled, leaving
behind them the loads they were carrying to market; but when they
found that we were friends, they soon returned, and seemed pleased to
find that we were not robbers, as they at first took us to be.

We sat down under the tree, and entered into conversation, when we
ascertained that this party were going in the same direction as
ourselves, to a town some few miles distant. The principal of their
load were yams and manioc, kolla-nuts and ground beans, plantains
and bananas, the latter of which one old woman ventured to ask my
interpreter if I would partake of, which of course I readily accepted;
and she also gave my men some each. In return I gave her a paper
of needles. The rest of the party were then anxious to make me a
_dash_, as they call it, upon the same conditions; but as we had now
sufficient, we declined to accept of any more. We soon resumed our
journey, marching in single file. The women, as they went along, began
singing a song, to which they all kept good time. This seemed to give
fresh animation to my men, and we went along for a short time as gaily
as if we had been in the Dahoman kingdom.

At thirteen miles, we arrived at a small town, or kroom, where there is
a large establishment, a sort of convent or residence, for Mahomedan
converts, who have either voluntarily or compulsorily renounced the
Pagan worship. These individuals are never suffered to come outside
of the walls till they have strictly conformed in every particular
with the Mahomedan religion for the space of thirteen moons, when they
are set at liberty, so far as to enjoy the privileges of the other
inhabitants; but should they attempt to leave the country for any other
kingdom, and be captured any time afterwards, they are sure to be put
to death. These individuals are all distinguished by a certain mark,
which is cut on the face, in addition to the mark of the tribe to which
they belong.

A singular form exists in passing by this establishment. All persons
must walk past on their bare feet, or if they wear sandals, they must
take them off while they pass; and if riding on horseback, or carried
in any other way, they must dismount and walk; nor must they look back
till quite past the prescribed mark, when the passersby are again
allowed to mount and proceed. All traders carrying a certain quantity
of goods are obliged to pay a toll or duty, which goes towards the
support of this establishment. Any evasion or breach of these rules
is punished by flagellation and forfeiture of the whole of the goods
in their possession. We were not allowed to enter, but every inquiry
respecting the establishment was answered; but whether the account
given was true or false, I am unable to determine.

The inmates are permitted to work at their trade, whatever it may be,
and are allowed the price of their labour, besides their subsistence
while they are within the walls. They are constantly attended by
priests, who visit the towns and markets within a certain distance,
and there levy contributions upon all articles of consumption, as well
as a duty which they demand upon cloths and ornaments, for the support
of their establishment. No doubt a great share of this sort of plunder
falls to themselves. Our company of trading-women left us here.

After partaking of some refreshment we again marched. No man could
experience more anxiety than I did myself during this part of my
journey; for the next town we reached would decide the success of the
object I had in view. Many were the doubts and fears that assailed
me. Sometimes I thought Terrasso-weea might have gone on, and have
taken another direction; and again, even if he were there, perhaps my
information at Abomey respecting Mungo Park might be incorrect, and
Terrasso-weea might know nothing of the circumstances about which I
was interested. At other times my spirits were buoyed up with the
idea of seeing the white man, as he was represented to be. But, again,
the thought of returning to Dahomey, and of incurring the King’s
displeasure, who had been my best friend, and perhaps, also, of being
instrumental in causing the caboceer of my guard, an excellent man,
to lose his head, oppressed me. However, to balance this trouble, I
had the consolation of having visited a country which I should not
otherwise have seen; for even if I should survive the climate and
dangers incident to travellers in so barbarous a country, I might not
again have an opportunity of visiting it.

While thus absorbed in varied reflections I had forgotten my
sand-glass, by which I measured the distance we marched, but my poor
fellows had been long accustomed to call out the number of quarters, or
glasses, which I caused every man to do aloud immediately after myself.
My glass was of a very simple construction. I took two small phials,
which had contained peppermint essence, which had been given to me
by an American captain. I measured my sand by time; then, when I had
ascertained the proper quantity, I poured out the remainder from the
opposite phial, and again secured the piece of tin between the mouths
of the phials, sealing them both together hermetically, and fixing
them lengthwise into a piece of palm stem, hollowed out on one side,
leaving one side of the phials exposed. This allowed me to observe
when the glass was run out. The moment we halted any where I slipped
the string, which was attached to each end, and hung about my neck, a
little round, so as to place the glasses in a horizontal position, and
stop their running until I again commenced marching.

On our journey we overtook numbers of people, the female portion of
whom were all heavily laden with goods for the market of Adofoodia.
Some we met returning, who had already been there and disposed of their
goods. Even these people were aware of our coming, and informed us
that the King had told his people that I should be there some time in
the forenoon. This was considered by his subjects as an act of great
condescension on his part, as affording them an opportunity of seeing a
white man--a sight they had never witnessed.

At twenty-eight miles we arrived at the anxiously-wished-for town of
Adofoodia, which is situated on a dry healthy plain, with a rich red
soil, the surface of a sandy nature, as if it had been carried over the
surface by water, at some remote period. We were met by the King and
his principal men, at a little distance from the outer gates. This
town is unlike many others; for it is not fenced with the prickly bush
I have before mentioned, though it is partially enclosed by clumps of
large shrubs, mixed with cotton and palm-trees.

The town is surrounded by a very thick clay wall, about eighteen feet
high. The outer market is held in a large open space on the left after
entering the southern gate. It is shaded with large trees, having
leaves measuring nine inches across, and about twelve in length. As
soon as we entered the market thousands came running anxious to see
us, which would inevitably have caused great confusion, had royal
power not been exercised to maintain order. We had already told the
King our principal object in visiting his country. He had the courtesy
immediately to take us to that part of the market (which was some
distance) where Terrasso-weea had his goods laid out on large square
pieces of carpet, evidently of European manufacture, though of a
pattern I had never before seen.

At a few yards from this spot we were desired to halt, and the King’s
chief messenger was sent forward to acquaint Terrasso-weea with our
arrival. However, he had been already made aware of the fact, and
had retired to his quarters to change his tobe. The messenger soon
arrived, accompanied by Terrasso-weea, who prostrated himself before
the King, who was on my right and a little in advance. The King
politely informed him that he had taken upon himself to introduce to
him a stranger who had come to see him from a far country. Whereupon
the merchant again prostrated himself and kissed the ground. Then he
arose and walked slowly towards me, holding out his hand with a smile
of satisfaction beaming in his venerable countenance. He said he was
truly happy to see me. It was, he said, the second time he had seen a
white man in the course of his life. The merchant took from a leather
wallet, or spohran, hanging in front of his dress, similar to that of
a Highlander of Scotland, a small book written in Persian-Arabic. From
this he read some form of welcome. He then begged the King’s leave to
depart, which his Majesty, with every show of politeness, agreed to, at
the same time remarking that it was his right to have the first of my
company, being the principal object of my journey. After a little time
he should certainly claim the privilege of a palaver with the white man.

We were then desired by the merchant to follow him. He first led us
to his stalls in the market, by the side of one of which was seated,
cross-legged, a dark swarthy man, but not much darker than some of
the Spaniards residing at Whydah. I was struck with the expression and
quick intelligent eye of this man, and could not help fancying that I
had seen the same individual at some previous period. The man eyed me
for some minutes with great interest, and at last suddenly advanced
towards me, holding out both his hands, and clasping his arms round
waist.

I did not much relish this sort of embrace from a stranger; but, by
his expression, I could observe that the salute was friendly. He
then passed his hands down each side, pressing my person gently, in
a similar manner to the searchers in the docks. Then he explained
himself, to my great though agreeable surprise. He proved to be a
merchant whom I met with when we were at the town of Egga with the late
unfortunate Niger expedition. He was then accompanied by another man,
and was on a trading tour from Rabba, attending the market at Egga. I
was invited by the malaam of Egga to dine with him, for he invites all
strangers to take refreshment. It was in his house that I met these
two individuals, who seemed quite delighted to meet me. They stated
themselves to be natives of Tripoli.

This man possessed great intelligence, and seemed anxious to afford any
information likely to be interesting to me. He informed me that his
companion was still at Rabba, trading from thence to Bornou. He was
himself employed by Terrasso-weea. While thus engaged in conversation,
a tall fine-looking man advanced towards us, with a very pleasing and
expressive smile on his countenance. To my great astonishment, this man
made me a bow, and addressed me, first in Spanish and then in English.

I can scarcely remember any occurrence in my lifetime that gave me, for
the moment, more pleasure than this; such an incident being so little
anticipated by me in a region so distant from civilized intercourse.
This poor fellow gave me a brief but interesting account of himself,
which I here set down in as few words as possible. He was a native of
Bornou, but, in the wars, was taken and sold as a slave. From one party
to another he was disposed of, till he was brought to Whydah, where
he remained some months, and was well treated. He was then shipped
from thence to Bahia, and remained there as a slave for the space of
twenty-one years. During ten years of that period he was principal or
head cook to the firm of Boothby and Johnston, of Liverpool.

When I told him I was well acquainted with Liverpool, he seemed quite
delighted, and expressed great anxiety to accompany me thither. He
spoke very highly of his former masters, and of the time of his
bondage as the happiest days of his life. I asked him how he came to
leave them. He informed me that he was liberated at the emancipation
of slaves held by British subjects, and that the early dreams of his
childhood were still so strongly imprinted on his memory that he
preferred visiting his birth-place to remaining a hired servant in
Bahia. Well, he returned in a Brazilian schooner to Whydah, where he
was landed, and there fell in with several of his acquaintances of
Bahia.

At Whydah he remained some months, then went to the Yarriba country,
and after some months arrived at his native town. But now the spell
was broken, and all his happy dreams of more than twenty years had
vanished. His native town had twice been burnt down by the enemy,
and was chiefly inhabited by strangers from a far country. He was
now an obscure stranger, and looked upon with suspicion, and his
long-cherished home was to him a desolate waste. With a lonely heart,
he again turned from the place, and when on his journey, intending to
return to the coast, and to Bahia if possible, he happened to meet
Terrasso-weea, at a town where he was trading. He was readily employed,
and had since travelled a great deal in different directions with his
master, whom he described to be an excellent man. Before leaving my
friend I ought to mention that he wrote his name, and described in
Spanish the time he remained in slavery, and also the names of Boothby
and Johnston. The date of his liberation is also noted. I have this
paper still in my possession.

To return to Terrasso-weea, who had retired to a short distance as soon
as my Bahia friend had entered into conversation with me. Observing a
pause in our conversation he again came up to me, and shewed me all
his goods in the market. He had a great number of carriers, who convey
the goods on their heads. This was the only place where I had seen the
camel used for burden since leaving Tangiers. Terrasso-weea had eight
of these animals, besides a great number of men.

The afternoon was now far advanced, and in consequence of my presence
Terrasso-weea ordered all his goods to be taken into his stores; so
that an opportunity might be afforded my friends, as well as himself,
of a palaver with a white man. Terrasso-weea then invited me to his
house, which was always occupied by some of his wives and an agent,
whether he were present or not. His dwelling and those of his domestics
formed a quadrangle of considerable extent. His own apartment was
richly ornamented with various rude designs, painted in different
colours upon the walls. Curiously carved stools were placed around the
apartment, and a clay couch, which was covered with several finely
worked mats of varied colours, over which was a richly worked native
wove cloth, bordered with a fringe of red and yellow silk. He was less
scrupulous than most Africans as regards the introduction of his wives,
though probably more with a view to gratify their curiosity than my
own. Some of them were considered as very handsome Africans, although
they varied very much in colour. A great many of them were Bornouese.

After drinking water with the merchant, I handed him the paper
entrusted to me by the Mahomedan priest at Abomey. Upon this he
immediately started to his feet, and seemed almost frantic with joy. At
the receipt of the epistle, which was written in the Persian-Arabic, I
availed myself of this opportunity to inform him of my object in coming
to this country: but the perusal of the note had already made him
aware that the object of my inquiry was to learn something respecting
the fate of the lamented Mungo Park. He said he was anxious to give me
all the information in his power respecting the death of that intrepid
traveller. His account I shall here narrate as nearly as possible as he
related it to me.

Terrasso-weea stated, that when he was a young man and living in
Yaouri, with the king of that place, as third malaam, or priest, a very
tall white man came down the great river Joleeba, having a very large
canoe, the centre covered over with matting in the form of a tent. He
was accompanied by several black men, and had one sheep and several
goats, with a few fowls, in the canoe, which they carried with them
for food. Amongst the crew was one man, a native of the neighbourhood
of Yaouri, whose name was Amadi Fatuma. This man had accompanied Mungo
Park from a town at a considerable distance higher up the river,
where he had gone with a trading caravan. As soon as this man arrived
at Yaouri, his native place, he of course left the canoe, but had
previously received payment. This cunning fellow advised Park to stop
at Yaouri to purchase some necessary provisions, declaring that he
could procure them cheaper by his assistance. Park accordingly went on
shore, and was introduced to the King, who supplied him with what he
required for subsistence, for which he paid him his full demand.

Soon after he retired to his canoe, to prepare for sailing; but on
his way, one of the King’s messengers overtook him, stating that
Amadi Fatuma had complained to the King that Mr. Park had not paid
him any wages, nor had he given him any thing as a dash; and that the
King had sent officers to detain Park till the demand was paid. Park
indignantly denied the truth of this assertion, and determined not to
yield to the imposition, but immediately stepped on board his canoe,
accompanied by the party who had been with him on shore. He desired
the messenger to return, and bring Amadi Fatuma to make his claim in
person. Amadi did return, accompanied by the malaam priest, that is,
the chief of the priesthood, Terrasso-weea being already present. He
then in person boldly demanded his wages, declaring that he had not
been paid according to his agreement, although all Park’s people stated
they saw him paid a great deal more than was agreed. Terrasso-weea says
he is doubtful whether the King, who was a despotic tyrant, had not
encouraged or urged Amadi to make his dishonest demand, for many people
believed the white man’s tale.

However, the King’s orders were directed to be enforced; and when
Park’s people were in the act of loosening the painter of the canoe,
which was made fast to a stump of a tree, or a post driven into the
bank for that purpose, one of the King’s officers seized hold of the
gunwale of the canoe to detain it, when Park, with a sabre, at one blow
cut the officer’s hand off. This exasperated the natives, who raised a
continuous yell, and at the same time threw a number of stones into the
canoe. Whereupon Park fired many times into the crowd, killing several
and wounding many.

It was not till then that a general attack was made, for many of the
people were in favour of Park, if they had dared to show it. Soon
after the attack Park was killed, or at least mortally wounded, so
that he died soon after he was taken into the presence of the King,
who pretended to feel regret that the charge had not been paid without
resorting to such a measure. Nearly all who were in the canoe were
killed or mortally wounded. Park with his own hands fired the guns,
while the others were loading the several muskets in their possession.
The arms used by the natives were bows and spears.

Terrasso-weea was during the whole time an eyewitness of this scene,
and he declares it to be his opinion, that had Park, after severing the
hand, pushed off his canoe, and proceeded down the river, he might have
got off without any more injury than the pelting with the stones. I
questioned him respecting the falls represented to have been the cause
of his canoe upsetting; but he declared that there are no such falls
as to impede in any way the navigation of a canoe of any size for more
than two hundred miles higher up; but merely a rapid current passing
between some large boulders of granite, between which he had himself
passed nearly the number of days in two moons.

He further stated in reply to questions from me, that Park was taken
out of his canoe alive, but would not speak when taken before the King.
All the property in the canoe was claimed by the King, and some of it
distributed in presents to his courtiers. Terrasso-weea was presented
with a small box, which, by his description, was either a tobacco-box
and stopper, or a snuff-box and tooth-pick, but I should suppose the
former.

I made minute inquiry respecting his papers, and was informed that
about twenty-six moons after the occurrence, a white man came from
Tripoli and purchased some large papers with crooked lines and much
of writing upon them. These papers were secured in a long metal tube.
I asked if he were not mistaken in the man who purchased the papers
coming from Tripoli, and whether it was not from Constantinople.
At this question, the merchant seemed a little offended, and again
asserted that the man came from Tripoli. He said he purchased the
papers at a high price, and when he had departed, a messenger was sent
after him by the King to recall him, when another demand was made upon
him, equal to the first payment before he was allowed to depart.

The other books in Park’s possession were sold in parts to the
different priests and malaams, to make into amulets, which consist
of slips of the paper rolled up hard, and sewn into a piece of
fancy-coloured and stitched leather, and are suspended by a neatly
plaited or twisted thong of goat-skin round the neck. He believed that
some amulets had been carried more than two hundred leagues, or sixty
days’ journey. I asked him how he came to leave the service of the
King of Yaouri. In reply he told me that he had been six years without
receiving any pay, and had ventured to solicit part payment, when
the King told him that his insolence deserved death, which punishment
he would certainly inflict, threatening the same fate to the priest
I had seen at Abomey. Upon this threat, the two priests determined
on making their escape, which they with difficulty effected; and had
they not been in favour with the people, and the King disliked for his
barbarity, their escape would have been impossible.

Having some pecuniary means they retreated to the kingdom of
Bornou, where they remained for some years, living in the capacity
of priests, and there they gained the favour of the sheik or king;
but, unfortunately, the country becoming involved in war, and their
master beheaded, they were compelled again to retreat, and ever since
had been travelling as merchants, sometimes remaining four or five
moons in one town. Terrasso-weea was also a dealer in slaves, when
it suited his purpose. The goods in which he traded were chiefly
Bornou ornaments--armlets, bracelets, and anklets, very heavy and
richly chased or carved; native razors and beads, cloths of various
manufacture and colours, various-coloured tobes, and neatly carved
wooden bowls, bows and arrows, some brass rods, no doubt of European
manufacture.

During our conversation my friend, the Bahia cook, seemed very anxious
to ask some questions. I could not help admiring the difference between
the sagacious behaviour of this man and that of his uncivilized
brethren around him. He asked me a great many questions respecting
Boothby and Johnston, and begged me to call on the firm, and deliver
certain messages on my return to England. He intended to embrace
the first opportunity of returning to Whydah, where he had some
acquaintances, for he was not now comfortable, being entirely shut
out from the civilized world. If he could only hear of any of his old
master’s family being still alive in Liverpool, he would yet endeavour
to get a passage thither.[16] The King had sent provision to us,
and our host had also furnished us with more than a sufficiency; my
excellent friend the cook begging to perform the cooking, declaring
that it did his heart good to wait on a white man, but more especially
an Englishman.

My friend and old acquaintance, the Tripoli man, seemed anxious to
learn something of the steamers composing the Niger expedition. It
appeared that he was quite acquainted with the disastrous fate of that
expedition, and also with the abandonment of the model farm, which
he says he himself visited after he saw me at Egga. He says that the
natives regretted much the abandonment of the farm, but the people
are still in hopes of our again returning to trade with them. So that
though the lives of many good men were sacrificed, the expedition has
excited an inclination to trade, which must always be the leading means
of civilization.

The King now sent his messengers to ask if I had finished my palaver,
as he wished me and the merchant to pay him a visit at his palace.
Thither we accompanied the messenger, and found his Majesty seated
cross-legged on a square piece of Turkey carpet. He had two large brass
pans beside him, without any contents, consequently I suppose they were
merely used as ornaments. He had two of his principals sitting close by
him; these were his principal malaams. Upon my approach he rose from
his position, and shook hands with me, and then reseated himself on a
low, richly-carved stool, the malaams each nursing a leg on their lap.

The sun was now set, and this interview was by torch-light. The King
asked a great many questions about the sovereign of my country, and
when told that the monarch was a woman he seemed confounded. He next
asked me if she had many husbands, and when I told him that she had
only one, he shrunk up his shoulders. He then inquired if she went out
to war in person. In fact, his inquiries were endless. Our palaver
lasted about an hour, at the end of which we were allowed to retire.

We returned to the house of the merchant, where we had supper, and
were afterwards accommodated with a comfortable mat and cloth to sleep
upon. I slept very soundly, and did not awake till aroused by the noise
of people getting their goods ready for the market. There are several
markets in this town, consequently they are held on different days. I
arose, and the Bahia cook had prepared some delicious dishes for my
breakfast. The poor fellow seemed quite delighted to attend to my wants.

At breakfast I ate by myself, the merchant preferring other dishes.
I made inquiry respecting the distance to Timbuctoo. He said that he
had come from Timbuctoo in ten days, by commencing his journey before
the sun, and travelling all day, only stopping to eat once. I found
by comparing the day’s journey that he had come from the Dabadab
Mountains. Thirty miles was about his day’s journey. He described
Timbuctoo as not nearly so large as Adofoodia, and that it was only
remarkable as a mart for the exchange of goods as being convenient for
that purpose. It is a great salt market, but has no manufacture.

The natives are chiefly employed in loading and unloading goods for the
different traders, who assemble here to meet the various caravans and
canoes, which arrive there at certain periods. A high duty is imposed
upon every article of trade carried thither, in consequence of which
great disturbance has been caused of late years, by the merchants
refusing to pay it. Timbuctoo is described as being a considerable
distance from the Joleeba, or Niger, up a tributary stream.
Terrasso-weea informed me, as also the Tripoli merchant, that there are
thirty-six branches or tributary rivers. All of these within one league
run into the Niger, or Joleeba, near the Timbuctoo branch. Adofoodia is
as large as Abomey, and its trade nearly equal in native merchandise.
It is by observation, in latitude 13° 6ʹ N. and by reckoning 1° 3ʹ East
longitude.

The market at Adofoodia is well supplied with nearly every article
already mentioned, except tobacco, which I did not observe. Slaves
are here sold in great numbers. During my stroll round the town I was
followed by dense crowds of people wherever I went. Upon my return to
my quarters, I was visited by the King, who expressed a wish to see me
fire out of my gun.

To gratify his curiosity I shot a pigeon which was flying past. This
excited great surprise. He sent me a head of cowries to treat my men on
my return to Dahomey. I had now only a few knives left, two of which
I gave him, as well as some needles. I also gave some presents to my
other kind friends, with whom I felt myself quite at home. They pressed
me hard to stop another day, but circumstances would not permit me, and
after being furnished with another head of cowries by Terrasso-weea,
we marched on our return for the Kong Mountains, during which nothing
very extraordinary occurred further than a slight fever; and on the
13th August, in the evening, we once more, to my great joy, arrived at
Baffo, where I found my guard and the captain almost in despair.


FOOTNOTES:

[16] I have, since my return, called on the firm of Messrs. Boothby and
Johnston, and found this story perfectly correct. His old masters gave
him an excellent character.




                             CHAPTER VIII.

 Return to Baffo--Anxiety of my Caboceer--Rejoicings for my Return--Our
 March--Fine Plain--Plants--Neutral Ground--Natives of the Dassa
 Mountains--Agriculture--The Annagoos, dangerous Enemies--Poisoned
 Arrows--Poisonous Plants--Alarm of my Attendants on my plucking
 it--Fatal Effects of this Plant and Dread of it by the Natives--Number
 of the Natives blind, supposed to be the result of it--Unsuccessful
 Attack on them by the Dahomans--Spiral Rocks--Hostile Demeanour
 of the Natives--They follow us with Menaces--Some Account
 of these Mountaineers, and of the Dassa Mountains--The Blue
 Eagle--Cataracts--Beautiful Plain--One of my Cases of Rum broken by
 a Carrier--Twisted Marble of Variegated Colours--Path covered with
 Pepper-trees--Monkeys--Logazohy--Mayho’s Town--The Caboceer--The
 Merchants--Their Names--Carelessness with respect to Fire--Visit of
 the Caboceer.


I was told by some of my people whom I had left at Baffo, that the
captain or caboceer had almost starved himself, having for some days
after my march from Baffo to the Fellattah country refused food. He
expressed his certain belief that in the event of his returning without
me to Abomey he should lose his head. The character of the Dahoman
is proverbial for being easily depressed, and as easily elevated. I
was certainly a very welcome sight to all my people whom I had left
at Baffo. Immediately after my arrival a messenger was despatched to
Abomey to acquaint the King with my return. He had sent a messenger
daily to Baffo to ascertain whether any tidings had been obtained of
my safety. These communications were kept up by a number of messengers
stationed at intervals between Abomey and Baffo. After a short palaver,
in which my motives for clandestinely leaving Baffo were condemned by
them and justified by myself, I broached one of the rum kegs I had left
at Baffo when I left for the Dabadab Mountains, and gave each of my
people a dram. This soon settled all differences, and in a short time
the merry dance succeeded to doubts and extreme anxiety.

The whole of the following day, August 14th, was spent in rejoicing,
drinking peto, and dancing; and early on the following morning
arrangements were made for marching on our return to Abomey. My
excellent old friend Kpatchie, the caboceer of Zoglogbo, who had spent
the evening with us, was again at Baffo by day-break, with a guard
of one hundred men to accompany me on the first part of my journey.
The caboceer of Baffo, Agassadoo, had also one hundred men ready to
accompany me, making in all, with my own people, three hundred armed
men. My men, who accompanied me on my journey to Adofoodia, through the
excessive fatigue which they had undergone and too freely indulging on
the previous night, were so completely worn out and feverish, that it
was arranged to leave them to their own discretion to return to Abomey
by the nearest route; but with orders not to be later than ourselves in
arriving in the capital.

With great satisfaction to myself and the Dahoman soldiers, we now
commenced our march for the town of Logazohy, bearing N.N.W. Our
march was across a fine plain, partly cultivated, with a crescent of
mountains, called the Dassa Mountains, to the south and west. This
valley, or plain, is well watered by small streams and springs of
various qualities, and the surface of the soil is of a sandy clay.
In crossing it I observed many different species of bulbous plants,
of the flag tribe, which I had not noticed previously in any part of
Africa I had yet visited; some of their blossoms or flowers appeared
very much like the breast of a partridge in colour, and resembled in
shape and texture the wing of the dragon-fly. A certain distance from
Baffo, after emerging into the plain, is considered neutral ground
between the Annagoos and Mahees, the former occupying the whole of
the chain of the Dassa Mountains, and denouncing all intercourse with
their neighbours on either side of the mountains. They are consequently
deficient in every article of European manufacture, possessed by
their trading neighbours. They are contented, however, with their own
resources, and, according to the old adage, that necessity is the
mother of invention, they are considered much more ingenious than their
rival neighbours. They are also good farmers, and like the Mahees
and Dahomans, in the vicinity of their own towns, they hold farms by
hereditary right, a method which does not exist in any part of the West
Coast. There, generally, after one man has obtained a single crop from
any piece of land, he is too indolent to follow up cultivation for a
second, and consequently the ground is either left to be overrun with
spontaneous vegetation, or to be taken possession of by another party.

The Annagoos of the Dassa mountains are considered dangerous enemies,
although by no means distinguished for their valour or gallantry, but
on account of their superior skill in the manufacture of different
poisons. Perhaps the opinion entertained of these people may arise
from superstition, but it is certain that a plant from which the
strongest poison is extracted grows in abundance at the base of these
mountains, and that with this the poison for their arrows is prepared.
This plant grows about eight feet high, has a round stem about the
thickness of a man’s thigh, and is of a greenish grey colour. Its stems
are fluted triangularly, and shoot from the main trunk at regular
intervals. The stems or major branches also send forth minor ones
bearing a resemblance and proportion to the horns of a species of deer
or antelope abundant in this country. It is of the cactus tribe, and
the whole is of a fleshy nature, but quite smooth and without prickles,
growing almost without soil on the bare surface of the granite rock,
and receiving nourishment from its long fleshy roots, which run in
different directions, till they find some narrow fracture or crevice,
into which they insert themselves. Their growth is very rapid.

I had been cautioned by my Dahoman caboceer, early in the morning
previous to our marching, not to touch either a flower or a shrub of
any description, or even pick up a pebble, as I had been in the habit
of doing when I observed any thing new on my journey. I took little
heed of this wholesome injunction, supposing that his motives were
merely to prevent any delay on the road, as the day was likely to be
rainy. Upon observing a succession of this plant, as I rode along, I
carelessly laid hold of and broke off a portion of the stem of one,
which was extremely brittle. A yell was instantly raised amongst my
soldiers, and in a moment it was snatched out of my hand, and thrown a
considerable distance from the path, while another soldier seized my
horse’s head and pulled it on one side from the plant.

Upon inquiring the cause of such an unceremonious proceeding, I was
assured, that I had run into extreme danger myself, as well as all
those near my person, as this plant was the most deadly poison to
be found in that country, and that even the vapour from a fracture
or wound in the stem or any other part of it, from which a milky
liquid almost in a stream exudes, which comes in contact with the
eye, invariably causes total blindness, and death immediately any
particle of the juice comes in contact with the blood. Be this as it
may, I certainly observed in Logazohy and some neighbouring krooms an
extraordinary number of blind persons, as well as blind dogs, which
naturally excited my curiosity. I thought that this was occasioned by
the ravages of the small-pox, but I observed that many were totally
blind where no signs of small-pox were visible, (though this disease
is very prevalent here as well as in all the neighbouring kingdoms to
the north and east of these mountains,) but upon inquiry, I found that
the blindness was attributed to coming in contact with this plant.[17]

None but the inhabitants of the Dassa mountains, it is said, can safely
make use of this plant. It was also stated to me, that three years
ago, when an attempt was made upon a certain large town, on one of
these mountains, the inhabitants poisoned the waters which ran near the
Dahoman camp, from which the besiegers obtained their supplies, and in
consequence, that some thousands of the Dahoman army perished in the
most excruciating agony. On this account the siege was abandoned. No
other attempt has ever since been made to take this town, though wells
might be dug and water obtained with very little trouble, for springs
are numerous and copious in this neighbourhood.

Previous to our arrival at the mountain-pass which divides the
crescent, through which we marched in crossing this range of
mountains, we passed many singularly formed spiral rocks, upon some
of which were resting immense blocks of the same material, placed
horizontally. Upon several of these apparently dangerous precipices,
men were perched, and even dogs with them, each man armed with bow and
arrow, watching us as we passed. At the moment I was quite unaware of
their motive for watching us so narrowly, and concluded that it was
merely the curiosity of seeing us as we passed, but we had not gone
more than a very short distance before I found out their motive. These
selfish people, besides shunning all intercourse with other tribes,
will not allow even a pebble, or any thing dead or alive, not _even a
serpent_, to be carried into another country. Not being made acquainted
with this circumstance, (though I had been cautioned without any reason
being assigned by my caboceer,) I asked one of my private servants to
pick up a piece of stone of an unusual appearance. As soon as this
was observed by them, a Dassa bowman ran up nearly alongside of me,
raising several hideous yells, accompanied with menacing gestures. I
did not know their language, and the Dahomans only understood what
was meant by the bowman’s motions directing me to give up the stone.
His yell brought in less than five minutes many hundreds of men and
boys, all armed with bows and arrows, many of whom had their arrows
already resting on the string. My caboceer, who had now placed himself
alongside of my horse, reminded me of the caution he had given me.

The Dassa people were still advancing alongside of us, continuing their
hideous yells. Observing this, I asked the meaning of their following
us, and was told that they were singing the stranger’s praise, but
their gestures and menacing attitudes convinced me that it was not so,
though to drown the noise, my own people began a song in praise of
the “king’s stranger,” as they called me. At last one of the Dahomans
admitted, that, although he was unacquainted with their language, he
was certain the Dassa people were cursing us. Upon this I remonstrated
with the caboceer upon his suffering them to follow us in such a
menacing manner, and begged him to order the additional guard to load
their pieces, and give our pursuers a volley. He assured me that their
pieces had been loaded previous to our leaving Baffo, and that each
man had three bullets in his musket. He declared that he should like
to give them a volley, which he knew would soon disperse them, but
that the King had given him orders not on any account to commence
hostilities, except in the event of an attack, and then to retaliate
immediately with all his force.

This was doubtless a more prudent course than I could at that moment
reconcile myself to, having already experienced the advantage of taking
the first step in an affray with Africans, but afterwards the King
of Dahomey argued the injustice of a first attack, as we were only
intruders in the Dassa territory, and had not come there to make war. I
had my carbine and both pistols heavily charged with slugs, and could
willingly have made the Dassa bowmen a present of a few when they first
came up alongside of me, had the caboceer allowed me.

After accompanying us two miles in the manner I have described, that
is, till we reached the neutral ground on the N. W. side of the
mountains, they suddenly turned back towards their homes. My fine
old friend Kpatchie, and also the caboceer of Baffo, soon afterwards
left us to return to their respective abodes. It now came on to rain
heavily, rendering the path, which is of a light clay, extremely
slippery.

Before leaving the natives of the Dassa mountains, it may not be
uninteresting to make a few observations respecting them. For
generations they have inhabited this range of mountains, though they
have been on several occasions disturbed by enemies, who however
have always been repulsed with loss. Their mountains are extremely
difficult of access; and, unlike any of their neighbours, they take the
precaution to preserve sufficient food for some months, in case of a
besieging force coming against them. This precaution, and the supply of
water from the mountain springs, enables them to withstand the force
and skill of any enemy. They speak a language quite distinct from that
of the neighbouring tribes, one instance of the inaccuracy of Mr.
Crowther’s assertion that all the tribes inhabiting the Kong Mountains,
from the Niger to the Ashantee country, speak the same language.

I had several Yarriba and Houssa men with me, all of whom declared that
they could not speak the Dassa language. These mountaineers are selfish
and revengeful in the extreme, and are considered great cowards, for
they depend chiefly upon the chances of poisoning their enemy. They
are numerous on account of their never disposing of their slaves, and
polygamy is, as in most African kingdoms, allowed to any extent. Their
towns (those at least which we saw) were large and well-peopled, and
their position judiciously selected for defence. They do not keep
their cattle in herds on the plains, like their neighbours, but on the
mountains, which have more vegetation than most of the Mahee mountains
of the same height. They are great farmers and hunters. Regular markets
of exchange are established with one another. It is said that they have
a superior method of manufacturing iron, which has been observed in
their arrow-heads. Their worship is pagan.

The west side of some of these mountains presents to the observer a
most singular appearance, being composed of immense blocks of stone,
(granite,) thrown by some volcanic power indiscriminately one upon
another, resembling at a distance the large towns built on other parts
of the mountains. The highest of the Dassa mountains, which is close on
the left or south side of the pass crossing this chain, is two thousand
five hundred feet high. The pass through these mountains is picturesque
and grand; huge blocks of granite resting on pivots and angles, almost
terrific to pass. The blue eagle, and various large birds of varied
plumage and forms, give a wild grandeur to the scene. The pass is
extremely rough, the traveller ascending and descending rocks, to the
distance of a mile, to avoid the deep pools in the hollows between
them, formed by the stream of considerable size which runs in the same
direction as the pass. The noise and gushing sound of the cataracts
reminded me of scenes far distant. I should have enjoyed it much better
had we not been annoyed by the Dassa people.

It is remarkable, that in all the mountains in the interior I have
never observed a stone building, though stone might much easier be
obtained than the clay with which they are invariably built; for
instance, they carry clay from the plain for the purpose of building
upon granite rocks, on mountain-tops elevated two thousand feet from
their base. The lion, hyæna, and panther abound in these mountains, and
often commit great depredations. The antelope is also a resident here.

After crossing the chain of the Dassa mountains, we entered another
beautiful plain, quite open to a distance of many miles to the
northward. The soil is of a light sandy clay and loam, well watered
by small streams, running to the N.E. The ground, in consequence of
the heavy rains, had, as I stated, become very slippery; and, whether
by accident or intentionally I cannot determine, one of my Dahoman
carriers, sent with me by Mayho, let fall from his head a large case,
containing bottles of rum, breaking all but two. One of the soldiers
who was close behind him stated that this act was intentional, and
the caboceer declared that he would report the slave’s conduct to his
master immediately upon his return to Abomey. It was an unfortunate
event to myself and the caboceer, especially as my stock of spirits
was now nearly exhausted, and we had still many towns to visit,
where in all such cases a present of a flask of rum is considered an
indispensable _dash_ to the caboceers and their head-men.

Immediately after the case fell from the man’s head, one of the
soldiers placed it on its bottom, and I opened it. The box being pretty
closely packed, we managed to preserve a considerable portion of the
rum; but I had only two bottles, which I always ordered my own men to
carry in their havresacks, filled with water. We poured out the water
from these, and filled them with the dirty rum. The bottles having been
packed with straw, some of the soldiers wrung out the rum into their
calabashes, to drink. The remainder of the rum was distributed amongst
my people, with the exception of the unfortunate carrier, whom the
caboceer would not allow to taste it; and, as a farther punishment, he
was ordered to change his load for a much heavier one. The plain was
here thinly studded with palm and shea butter-trees.

After marching about thirteen miles, we entered a thick wood, which
runs along the base of a second range or crescent of mountains,
similarly situated to the Dassa mountains, but of much less magnitude,
and thickly wooded to the top. The geology of this differs from the
Dassa range, being composed chiefly of limestone, and a beautifully
twisted or waved marble of variegated colours--yellow, white, blue, and
red. After passing about five miles along their base, under large trees
of various sorts, the rain falling in torrents, we arrived at the pass
across this second range. The path, though well trodden under foot, was
entirely covered with pepper trees, of the small Chili tribe, about ten
feet in height.

These bushes proved very annoying for a distance of about two miles.
The branches of the pepper-trees extended across the path at about four
feet from the ground, where they were so firmly interwoven as almost to
unseat me from my saddle, and being in full bearing at this season the
annoyance was still greater, the seeds coming in contact with the face
and eyes, and causing actual torture.

It was very agreeable again to see the open plain, which we found at a
short distance from the mountains, beautifully cultivated. I forgot to
mention, that during our passing over the last range, I observed some
very singularly marked monkeys, having a white streak across the upper
part of the forehead, white round the mouth, and on the tip of the
nose. These were much smaller than the black or brown monkey, and of a
slate-grey-coloured body. We passed several large shocks of beans or
peas, of a description I had not yet noticed. They appeared to be very
prolific, and were about the size of the horse-bean in England, but as
white as our white pea; the stalk about three feet long, and also of a
light colour. I found upon inquiry that these were preserved for seed,
which were to be immediately put into the ground, though they had only
been two days gathered. I was told that the seed would produce another
crop in the space of two moons and a half. In this country they have
also a great variety of the ground-bean and nut, which is also very
abundant.

After twenty-one miles we arrived at the town of Logazohy, where,
although completely drenched by the day’s heavy rain, we were obliged
to remain in the market-place till the poor old caboceer, who was in a
very delicate state of health, could prepare himself for my reception,
as the King’s stranger. After the usual prostration and forms of
welcome, by drinking water, and then rum, we were led into a spacious
court-yard, where we observed a number of young female slaves, who
were very handsome, busily employed in grinding corn. They seemed to
have been taken unawares, for upon our approach they instantly fled.
We passed into a second and much smaller yard, where a good house for
myself and private servants was pointed out to me. This I ascertained
belonged to Mayho’s traders, who are stationed here.

The town belonging to Mayho by right of conquest, the honour of
accommodating me with this apartment was claimed by these men, Mayho
having been appointed white man’s guardian or father during his
sojourn in the Dahoman kingdom. This circumstance seemed to cause a
certain degree of jealousy on the part of the caboceer and head men,
who insinuated that the apartments were not sufficiently good for the
King’s white stranger to lodge in. However, I expressed myself quite
satisfied and comfortable. After being supplied with a thick rush-mat
and a country-cloth, I stripped off all my wet clothes, and wrapped
myself in the cloth.

The whole front of my house was open, consequently crowds, both young
and old of both sexes, pressed eagerly almost into my apartment, to
see my white skin, which seemed greatly to excite their curiosity. In
about an hour after our arrival, the caboceer sent ten large calabashes
of ready-cooked provisions for me to distribute amongst my people,
and a few minutes afterwards the merchants brought me thirty-three
more dishes, holding about twenty English bushels, with one live
Guinea-fowl, a duck of the Muscovy breed, and several common fowls.

The merchants, six in number, upon presenting me with the provisions,
prostrated themselves, the principal a little in advance of the others,
when after rubbing the upper parts of their naked persons with the
dust, or rather mud, they raised themselves to their knees, upon which
they remained resting on their hams, the custom always in addressing a
superior. The principal or head man, acting as a spokesman, expressed
gratification at having an opportunity of displaying their gratitude
and good feeling towards their King and his stranger, who had
condescended to visit their country, and hoped that this would not be
the last opportunity which would be afforded them of testifying their
good feeling to an Englishman. They said that it was owing to the skill
and goodness of white men who brought white man’s goods into their
country, that they were enabled to keep up a trade superior to the
kingdoms in the interior; then after expressing a wish that I would
soon again pay them another visit, the head man begged that I would do
him the honour to enter their names in my book. They were as follows:--

  Zisau.
  Bossou.
  Degano.
  Ossou.
  Doyou.
  Bokaw.

The caboceer and merchants were previously made aware of our intention
to visit their town, and were therefore enabled to get food prepared
for us. A strong fire was kindled inside my house, and my wet clothes
hung round to dry during the night. I have often been surprised at
their carelessness with respect to fire. During the rainy season it is
generally kindled inside their huts, which even in the centre seldom
exceed eight feet in height, and though the thatch reaches within three
feet of the ground, yet accidents seldom occur. It is true, they have
generally little to lose by fire, the extent of their furniture being
a stool or two, and a few earthen pots of native manufacture, in which
they cook their food, and a few gourds or calabashes. The roof alone
can be destroyed, the walls being thick and of clay, hardened by fire.

August 16th.--Early in the morning I was visited by the caboceer Chaou,
who according to custom came to wish me good morning. He introduced all
his head men to me, explained the nature of each of their offices. Soon
afterwards, a number of the caboceer’s wives arrived, accompanied by
double their own number of slaves loaded with provisions, which were
presented to myself and people. As soon as this ceremony was concluded,
the person appointed to taste each dish, as well as one of my own
people, partook of a small portion of each, to show us that there was
nothing poisonous contained in it. After the several dishes were all
distributed, Chaou, in a whisper, begged the captain of my guard to ask
if I would condescend to enter his own name and those of his head men
in my book. Of course I readily assented, and entered as follows:--

  Chaou.[18]
  Adjutabellee.
  Douzougoukeny.
  Amouzoukpway.
  Bozou-nogoodithay.
  Annessou.
  Aladee.
  Nah.
  Dosoutimee.
  Dojee.
  Adjobolee.
  Awalla.
  Alee.
  Atepwhahoo.
  Asseedaw.
  Agasahogloo.
  Kadjo.
  Kapo.


FOOTNOTES:

[17] After my return to Whydah, I happened to mention this circumstance
to a Portuguese slave-merchant, at the same time doubting the truth
of the powers of this plant. He assured me of the correctness of this
information, and that the same plant is to be found in the Brazils.

[18] Caboceer.




                              CHAPTER IX.

 Enter Logazohy in Regimentals--Received by the Caboceer,
 attended by his Soldiers--Singular Mode of Dancing--Native
 Jester--Description of the Town--Corn Mills--Presents from
 Fetish-women--Agriculture--Prevalent Diseases--A disgusting Case of
 Leprosy--Quarrel among my Carriers--My Illness--The Damadomy--Trees,
 Shrubs--The Agbado--Rapid Construction of a Suspension Bridge by
 my Dahoman Guards--Savalu--Reception by the Caboceer--Picturesque
 Situation of the Town--Caboceer’s House--His Wives--His Jester--My
 Illness.


Previous to my leaving Abomey for the Mahee country, the King expressed
a desire that I should either enter the town, (where it might be
arranged for me to remain all night,) in regimentals; or if more
convenient to me, dress in them on the following morning, and proceed
a short distance out of the town, going through a formal reception by
the caboceer and head men. Accordingly, it was arranged that I should
remain one day for that purpose, and about ten o’clock, all being
ready, I, together with all my retinue, marched out of the town to the
distance of about half a mile, in the same direction as we entered.
We then countermarched, and were met by Chaou and head men, with his
guard of about eighty soldiers, armed with muskets and short swords.
As they advanced, a constant fire was kept up till within a few yards
of us. Then both parties halted; upon which the usual prostration and
palaver of welcome were as minutely observed as if he had not before
seen us. We afterwards drank water with each other, and then rum of a
very indifferent quality. Both parties then alternately went through
their exercise of attack and defence. Their mode of skirmishing is all
by stealth upon the enemy, and their charge is a wild disorderly rush,
without any line being preserved. Each soldier upon his return brings
with him a tuft of grass, or a piece of a bough of some description, to
represent a head which he is supposed to have just cut off.

We then advanced to the town, where we formed up in the market-place.
Here each party alternately kept up what they called dancing, and
drinking rum and peto for about an hour. Their motion in dancing is
unlike that of any other country with which I am acquainted. They never
use their legs, except when making some extraordinary leap to change
their front in another direction, their principal motion being in the
hips and shoulders, which are thrown backwards and forwards in rapid
motion; sometimes their movements are, to any civilized being, of a
very disgusting nature.

During this ceremony the market-place was crowded with spectators, who
seemed quite delighted with the performance. Each caboceer invariably
keeps a clown, who is selected according to his powers of humour,
many of them displaying considerable talent. At last a messenger came
to signify to Chaou that dinner was prepared for us, when we retired
to our houses, where we found not only an extravagant quantity of
provision, supplied by the caboceer, but also by the same merchants
who had already been so liberal. We were also supplied with a large
quantity of peto.

After dinner I took a survey of the town, which for regularity and
neatness surpassed most of those I had yet visited in the Mahee
country. It is strongly fenced, has an inner wall, and a large outer
and inner market, well supplied with native produce and manufactures.
Rats, mice, and the guano are also sold in greater abundance for
consumption than in any other place I had seen. This was the first town
in which I observed any regularity or form of manufactory.

In the principal square, which was entirely occupied by the caboceer
and retinue, nearly one side was occupied by corn-mills, where a number
of very handsome young female slaves were employed grinding corn. About
two yards distant, behind where the grinders were employed, was a line
of fires, parallel to the line of mills; each fire was attended by a
cook and an assistant. The whole was covered in with a roof neatly
thatched. The side of the building facing the square was open like a
shed.

During the greater part of the afternoon I was beset with visitors,
bringing some trifling articles as presents, amongst whom were many
fetish-women, who brought me some eggs. These women are licensed
beggars, sanctioned by royalty, and possess great influence amongst the
people. They attend all public markets, and are entirely supported by
contributions, which are liberally bestowed from a dread of offending
them. The old caboceer, Chaou, paid me a visit, and earnestly inquired
if I could prescribe any medicine for a severe cough which much
annoyed him. He said that some of my soldiers told him I could cure
all diseases. I gave him a few colocinth and calomel pills, knowing
that he would not feel satisfied without something in the shape of
medicine,--in return for which he gave me a young bull.

The land here is well cultivated, and bears excellent crops near the
town. The rocks are of granite, and singularly twisted and stratified
horizontally, with scarcely any dip, in sections of pure white,
resembling alum.

Leprosy as well as small-pox appear to be the most prevalent diseases
here. The town of Logazohy contains eight or nine thousand inhabitants.
The cattle are handsome and numerous, with the exception of pigs, which
had lately suffered much from a disease resembling the small-pox. Very
few are now left in the country.

Towards the evening I felt a little feverish, probably from recent
fatigue and sleeping in wet clothes. I subsequently ordered a bason
of gruel to be prepared for me, and took a dose of James’s powder and
some sedative of opium. Upon lying down for the night, my friend
the captain of my guard seemed much alarmed, for he saw that I was
ill. He was very anxious that I should not take any medicine, lest it
might kill me, but I assured him that I took it for the purpose of
getting well. Being extremely ill, I had given orders not to admit any
strangers into my apartment, or even into the yard, but one poor old
woman, who had a son suffering dreadfully from leprosy, managed to gain
admittance to me, bringing a present of two fowls and some eggs. These,
however, I declined to accept, on account of her poverty, but assured
her that if she would bring her son to me, I would give him some
medicine; and told the old dame that white man came to her country to
teach them and do them good, and at the same time explained to her that
my reason for not accepting her present, was not that I undervalued its
pecuniary worth, but from a conviction that she might sell them in the
market for her own benefit.

Upon this, the poor old woman prostrated herself, and as usual covered
herself with mud, for the rain had been very heavy all the previous
day and night. She remained on her knees for some time, singing an
extemporary song in praise of the King’s stranger. She then departed
to bring her son, and in a short time returned with the unfortunate
object of her solicitude, who was decidedly the most loathsome creature
in human form I ever beheld. He was apparently about nineteen or twenty
years of age, and was covered with the loathsome disease from head to
foot except those parts which were ulcerated, with a discharge chiefly
from the arm-pits. The smell was so intolerable that my servants
retreated upon his approach. He was reduced to a mere skeleton, and
yet the poor fellow appeared not to suffer much pain, nor did any
particular organ seem to suffer more than another.

This case being beyond my skill, I could only prescribe calomel pills,
and a few doses of salts. I also presented the mother with a few
needles and a thimble, for which she seemed truly grateful, pronouncing
a blessing upon me as she departed. At last I had an opportunity of
lying down to rest. Though suffering much from fever, I soon fell into
a confused sleep, from the powerful dose of opium I had taken. Early
in the morning I rose with a view of getting the greater part of my
journey over before the sun should reach the meridian, but after
breakfast, August 17th, some of my men beginning to dispute about
carrying the luggage as previously arranged, I was compelled to use
my horsewhip. The excitement produced by this disobedience suddenly
threw me into a violent chill, which commenced at the feet, and rapidly
rose upwards till it reached the pit of the stomach. Then sickness and
vomiting began, followed by violent headach and giddiness.

This kind of attack is generally a prelude to a very severe and
dangerous fever. In a few minutes after the chill reached my chest, I
reeled and fell prostrate; but when the violent burning of the fever
commenced, the giddiness partly left me. I then took another strong
dose of opium and James’s powder, and lay down for two hours. I now
found myself in a violent perspiration, overcome by a sort of pleasing
stupor. This enabled me to bear up against the violence of the fever.

I ordered my horse to be again got ready, in defiance of the kind
remonstrances of the captain of my guard, and commenced my journey,
bearing magnetic W.N.W. At a short distance from the town, we passed
over marble rocks, beautifully twisted; but, on entering the plain,
we again found the bed composed of fused iron ore, with shea-butter
and palm-trees, thinly spread over it, and many other trees, the names
and class of the greater part of which were strange to me, being
unacquainted with botany.

At a short distance from the town of Logazohy, we crossed a small
stream of good water, about three feet deep and eight feet wide,
running eastward. This stream is named Damadomy. After crossing it,
I observed several large sycamore and ash trees, exactly similar to
those found in England, but of considerably larger growth, and the
bark more rough and fractured. Here also were numerous stunted shrubs,
of a peculiar description, which are very seldom met with, except in
this neighbourhood, and occupy a belt of country extending east and
west. One of these plants or shrubs is from four to six feet in height,
with numerous branches; both trunk and branches are very crooked,
and contain but very few leaves. The branches are nearly all of one
thickness, from the trunk to their top, which terminates abruptly. The
leaves are much smaller, but in shape resemble those of the laurel;
they are very fleshy, and of a pea-green colour. The bark is grey,
and also very fleshy; upon the whole this shrub has the appearance of
having been scorched and in a state of recovery.

                            [Illustration:

   From a Sketch by Duncan        Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers.

         THE KONG MOUNTAINS, IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD OF LOGAZOHY.]

At twelve miles distant, to the southward, I observed a range of
mountains, forming an arch of 90° S. and W. At eight miles further,
we arrived at the river Agbado, a rapid stream, twenty yards wide,
and only six feet deep, with steep banks densely wooded, with very
large trees, and a thick underwood. The river runs N.E. at this
point, but soon changed its course. When we reached it, we were much
disappointed (at least my guard pretended to be so) at not finding that
any arrangement had been made for our crossing the river. This, they
alleged, ought to have been done by the caboceer of Savalu, distant
only two miles, whom we had purposely come to visit. It appeared,
however, that the notice he had received of our intention to visit him
was so short, that he had scarcely any time to arrange himself and his
household.

My conviction was, that this apparent neglect was the result of a
preconcerted arrangement, in order to give the Dahoman soldiers an
opportunity of exhibiting their skill as engineers. I proposed to swim
my horse and self across, but this was opposed by the caboceer, on
account of the rapidity of the stream. Besides, how were the officers’
wives, who carried their baggage, and also my own carriers, to get
across? For this purpose I proposed rafts to be made from branches
of trees, cut into lengths and lashed together and passed across by
a rope, formed from the long fibres which grow downwards from the
branches of the large trees on this bank, resembling hundreds of ropes
of various thickness. These extraordinary fibres are sometimes thirty
and forty feet long, according to the height of the branches from which
they grow, and are extremely tough. They are pliable and of great
strength. When they reach the ground, they insert themselves to some
depth, and again take root, from which other trees spring upwards. They
frequently form a colonnade of considerable extent along the banks of
rivers, and resemble mangroves.

My proposition was not approved of, and a council of officers being
held, it was in a short time determined to adopt rather a novel method,
which it may be interesting to describe. As I have already stated,
large trees, of a species which I have previously mentioned, grew on
the banks on either side of this river. A number of small trees were
cut, each of the private soldiers cutting with his short sabre, or
knife, till a sufficient number were thus obtained. These poles newly
cut were tied to the long fibres hanging perpendicularly from the
branches of the larger trees, and were then attached in succession,
horizontally, till they reached the hanging fibres of the trees on the
opposite bank.

After having fixed two lines of poles across, in the manner I have
described, about one yard apart, short pieces of wood were cut and
placed across, and small boughs, and grass or reeds, placed on the top,
so that a suspension-bridge was thus simply constructed in the short
space of half an hour. The whole party then passed over in safety.
I was informed, in reply to a question, that this is by no means an
invention of the Dahomans, but has long been practised in Central
Africa, especially in time of war, and where the rivers are not too
wide. Floating bridges are also constructed in a similar manner, where
the above method cannot be adopted.

After crossing this river we entered the Annagoo country. We halted
a short time on the bank, to give the caboceer of Savalu time to
prepare himself for our reception. A messenger now arrived to say that
he would shortly be ready to receive us. I here changed my dress,
and substituted my military uniform. This caboceer was described to
be a man of great wealth and power, and a great favourite with the
King of Dahomey. He is consequently allowed a considerable degree of
discretionary power beyond that of any other chief, the caboceer of
Whydah excepted.

As soon as my rude toilet was finished, I mounted as a Life Guardsman,
but not quite so neat as when on duty at Whitehall. After advancing
about one mile towards the town, we were met by the caboceer under some
very large trees, where was a cranery. This place was delightfully
shaded. Here the captain of my guard and myself seated ourselves
under one of the trees, till this great personage made three times
a procession in a circle round us to the left, for it is considered
unlucky to form circle to the right. This caboceer appeared to consider
himself much above any other I had seen, either in the Mahee or
Dahoman kingdoms, now united. He would not condescend to walk, but was
carried round us in his hammock. He then alighted, and his hammock was
carried suspended to a pole, each end resting on the heads of two stout
slaves, who always proceeded at a trot. He advanced towards us on foot,
after he had displayed to his own satisfaction the richly ornamented
hammock in which he had been riding. He afterwards informed me that it
was presented to him by the King of Dahomey. He next went through the
usual ceremony of prostration, and rubbing himself with dust. He then
delivered a long address of welcome to the King’s English stranger,
finishing his harangue by saying that I was like to a man who had been
many moons searching in the bush for a large block of wood for his
fire, and had rejected many as being bad wood to burn, but to his great
satisfaction at last found a large tree of a peculiar description,
which burnt like a lamp. He said, that I in like manner had been
travelling through the Mahee and Fellattah countries, but during the
whole of my long journey I had not seen any town so great or so grand
as the town of Savalu, which I was about to enter.

The caboceer, whose name is Bagadee, is a very fine stout handsome
black, of very pleasing expression and address, possessing great
intelligence; and having travelled a considerable distance in the
neighbouring kingdoms, he has a tolerable idea of the geography of
the surrounding country. As we advanced towards the town, which was
certainly the most picturesque and grand of any I had seen since
leaving the country of the Fellattahs, we ascended six platforms
in succession, of flights of steps naturally formed, of a very
peculiar sort of stone, resembling petrified wood, and stratified
perpendicularly. These steps extend upwards of a mile in length, and
each platform is of nearly the same breadth, preserving the same
throughout; so that an observer could scarcely be convinced that they
were formed by Nature, were he not aware of the generally indolent
character of the natives. These platforms were about fifty yards in
width, with numerous little villages situated thereon, apparently
occupied by farmers, and here all the cattle are kept, of which there
are great numbers: goats and sheep only are admitted in the town. The
mountain of Savalu, from which the town takes its name, is beautifully
wooded to the summit, with bold projecting rocks or precipices at
different distances, showing their hoary crowns and angles, forming
a beautiful back-ground to the town, which, independently of the
neighbouring kroom, is certainly larger than any town in the Mahee
country, and before it was ceded to the Dahomans was always considered
the capital or metropolis. The houses are much larger generally,
and built with more taste and uniformity than any Mahee town. The
caboceer’s house is two stories high, and built on a platform directly
overlooking the market-place. His house and the market are separated
by a wall about ten or twelve feet high. The windows or light-holes
of the upper story are considerably higher than the wall, so that the
inmates, chiefly the caboceer’s wives, can overlook the whole of the
market-place, and in fact the whole town, being situated on the base of
the mountain.

We remained in the market-place about an hour and a half, drinking rum
and peto, the soldiers of each guard alternately dancing and keeping up
an irregular fire. During this time the caboceer’s wives were stealing
a peep through the windows, but the moment they were observed withdrew.
Amongst the soldiers of Savalu, I noticed the jester very particularly,
who certainly displayed more wit and fun than clowns generally do, in
endeavouring to fire off his musket, which several times missed fire;
upon which he shook out the whole of the priming, and spit into the
pan, and again snapped the piece as if expecting the explosion would
fellow. He also performed several other antics equally ridiculous.
At last we were allowed to retire to the quarters which had been
allotted to us. These were a considerable distance from the principal
market-place.

We passed through several minor markets on our way to my quarters,
then from one court-yard to another, till we at last reached the house
appointed for us, which, according to my ideas, ill corresponded with
the description given by the young caboceer of his town. The house
was so low in the doorway, that I was compelled to enter on my hands
and knees, and when I had passed through a partition into the inner
apartment, which was as dark as a dungeon, I was obliged to burn a
light. I felt much annoyed at this, and refused to remain there,
looking upon it as an insult. Upon this circumstance being made known,
several of the trading merchants from Abomey kindly proffered me their
houses, provided the caboceer had no objections.

A messenger was consequently despatched to communicate my
dissatisfaction with my lodgings to the caboceer, who appeared quite
surprised, and came back with my messenger to make personal inquiry
respecting it. Upon his inquiring why I objected to the apartment,
I told him my first impression was that it must have been used as a
prison, on account of its strength and darkness, being without any
aperture to admit of light, except the low doorway.

In explanation he informed me, that in his country the greater part of
the houses were purposely so constructed, to prevent the inmates from
being seen by a passer-by, who might shoot them with their arrows, in
time of war, which was a common practice; and that this house had been
selected as a security against such an occurrence. However, I chose the
house of the merchant, which was tolerably comfortable; but felt rather
feverish, and had also a slight touch of ague. I found it necessary,
therefore, to take more medicine, which so much alarmed my caboceer,
that he refused all sorts of food whatever, complaining bitterly of
the advantage taken in stealing a march upon him into the country of
enemies, thereby endangering his life as well as my own. He declared
his conviction, that I had contracted my illness through excessive
fatigue and exposure in the Fellattah country. However, two doses of
James’s powder and opium considerably subdued my fever. Here we were,
as usual, supplied with large quantities of provision ready cooked,
both by the caboceer and merchants. Late in the evening the caboceer
again visited me, bringing with him some rum as well as some cherry
brandy, which he proudly boasted had been sent him by the King of
Dahomey. After he had distributed these, I gave him the contents of a
flask of rum from my own stores, a box of lucifer matches, and a large
Jew’s harp, which seemed to afford him much pleasure. At a late hour he
and his head-men retired to their homes, much to my satisfaction, for I
felt much in want of rest.




                              CHAPTER X.

 Importance of the Caboceer of Savalu--Curiosity of the
 Natives--State Constables--Military Dance--Introduction to
 the Fetish-women--Manufactures--Crane-shooting--Present by
 Fetish-women--Hospitality of the Caboceer--His Name and those
 of his Head Men--Wild Grapes--The Zoka--Shrubs--Swim across the
 Zoka--Mode of Transporting my Luggage--Difficulty in getting my
 Horse across--Fearlessness of the Dahoman Female Carriers--Bad
 Roads--Jallakoo--Reception by the Caboceer--My Illness--Appear in
 Regimentals before the Caboceer--Concern evinced on account of my
 Illness--Description of the Town--Agriculture--Caboceer’s Name and
 those of his Head Men--Presents to the Caboceer.


August 18th.--We were visited early by the caboceer, who came to wish
us good morning, bringing with him another small flask of rum, with
which we drank each other’s health. He seemed very desirous to acquaint
me with his wealth and power, explaining that he held, under the King
of Dahomey, a discretionary power superior to any other caboceer, and
also the government of several neighbouring towns in the Mahee country,
as well as several large towns in his own country (Annagoo), which he
assisted the Dahomans in subduing. Savalu is the frontier town of the
Annagoo country, the natives of which are always considered a lawless,
marauding people, and habituated to acts of extreme cruelty.

In a short time breakfast was brought; after partaking of which we
were again invited to the market-place, where many thousands, both
old and young, were assembled to see the white man. The crowd was so
great, that the ground-keepers were entirely overpowered, although
they used their immense whips with great violence and dexterity. It
is a singular fact, that the state constables in nearly all the large
towns of the Dahoman, Mahee, Fellattah, and Annagoo countries, are
selected from deformed persons. Many of them are armed with a bullock’s
tail dried with the skin on, and the long hair shaven off. This is a
merciless weapon when used with both hands, which is frequently the
case when authority is resisted. The offending parties are compelled
to kneel down, and to place a hand on each knee, the body bending
forward towards the constable, who inflicts his blows longitudinally
on the back. This is a very severe punishment, and is the mode adopted
for minor offences through the whole Dahoman kingdom. A dozen is the
greatest number I ever knew inflicted at one time on the same person.

Some soldiers having been stationed to assist in keeping the ground,
something like order was restored, and the amusements commenced by the
caboceer circling round in his hammock, as on the previous afternoon.
During this a continual firing was kept up. He afterwards got out of
his hammock, and advanced within a few yards of me, when, as usual,
he went through the regular forms of prostration. He then examined
my horse and trappings, apparently with great interest. His soldiers
and head men then commenced dancing; and, as a matter of courtesy, my
caboceer condescended to dance with the same party. Their music was
rude, but not very unpleasant; they were wind instruments, similar to
the hautboy, accompanied with drums and calabashes, or gourds, covered
with net-work strung with human teeth.

The fetish-women, who were at this period keeping up their annual
custom, which lasts during a whole moon, were then introduced. They
appeared to be the finest and handsomest women in the place. They were
richly ornamented with coral and brass bracelets or armlets, apparently
of Bornouese manufacture. Each wore, besides a country cloth, a large
silk handkerchief of European manufacture. I could scarcely refrain
from expressing my regret at seeing them prostrate themselves, and
besmearing themselves with dirt, after the pains which they had taken
to appear so neat and clean before this form of humiliation.

As soon as this ceremony was finished, the whole party repeated a short
prayer, after which they commenced a dance by themselves, singing
some particular song, to which they kept time by clapping their hands
against those of their partner. My own soldiers next commenced dancing,
when they were joined by the principal men of Savalu, who considered
themselves highly honoured by being allowed to dance with my Dahoman
soldiers.

After this sort of amusement had been concluded, I presented both
parties of soldiers with some rum, and took a stroll round the town to
examine the markets, and observe their mode of manufacture. This day,
however, had been set apart by order of the caboceer as a holiday, so
that scarcely any thing was exposed for sale in the market. However,
I had an opportunity of seeing the blacksmith and weaver at work. The
weavers here use a more perfect loom than the Fellattahs, and are also
much superior to any I observed in the Mahee country. At Savalu they
weave a sort of webbing similar to some of the fine silk webbing used
for gentlemen’s braces; but, upon a close inspection, I found that
several of the principal weavers used European manufactured thread,
both silk and cotton.

In the whole of the countries I have visited, either on the coast, or
in the interior, they have no other method of spinning than by the
ancient distaff. I have often wondered at this, for their looms are
exactly on the same principle as those of Europe. They knit nightcaps
in great quantities here; and during my stay at Baffo a man knitted me
a pair of socks, from a pair I lent him as a pattern. These are still
in my possession.

I asked permission to shoot some cranes in the cranery we passed
yesterday, but the caboceer would only allow me to shoot the grey ones.
The white cranes, he said, were the fetish-men to the grey ones.
The caboceer accompanied me, and seemed much surprised at my killing
one with so small a gun on the top of so high a tree, particularly
as he had never seen small shot used before. They generally use iron
bullets, rudely forged. I offered to shoot one with a gun belonging to
the principal warrior of my guard, but this he peremptorily refused,
declaring “that if white man fired out of his gun, black man can never
again kill any thing with the same piece.” To convince him of his
error, I offered to let him have a shot with mine, but even this he
declined. I afterwards learnt that they will not even allow their own
comrades to fire out of their guns.

Upon my return home I found my court-yard covered with dishes of
provision, smoking hot, the merchants as well as the caboceer having
sent numerous dishes, as well as plenty of peto for my people to drink.
Soon after we had finished our meal, we were beset with fetish-women,
bringing small presents, received by them as tithes, on the last
market-day. Tithes are actually customary to fetish-women even in
Abomey. Although their present be ever so trifling, the acceptor is
considered as under a religious obligation to make a return of tenfold
value.

One very fine old fetish-woman, accompanied by her two daughters,
presented me with some eggs, which she brought me on a soup plate of
English manufacture, for which I gave in return needles and thimbles.
With these they seemed much pleased, but unfortunately on their way
home they dropped the plate and broke it into several pieces. The young
ladies returned crying bitterly, earnestly entreating me to mend it,
and seemed still more grieved when I told them that it was beyond my
skill. To console them, however, I told them that I would certainly
send them one from Whydah by the Abomey messenger, who would forward it
to Savalu by the traders. This promise I fulfilled.

Late in the evening the caboceer again visited me, when I presented
him with a few ornamental trinkets, as well as a knife and a pair of
scissors. With these he seemed pleased. I also presented his head
men, and the Abomey merchants who had treated us so kindly, with some
trifling articles. In return, they presented me with a live goat and
some fowls.

August 19th.--Early in the morning I was visited by the caboceer,
who came to pay his morning visit. The night had been very wet, and
I was still suffering a little from fever; however, I was determined
to proceed on my journey. We were furnished with a good breakfast,
of which I partook a little. I had now become quite the African in
my diet, which agreed with me very well, and I would recommend all
travellers to adopt the same plan. When my party were announced to
be all ready for the march, we were conducted through the principal
market-place, where we found a fine young bull tied to one of the
trees. The gay young caboceer here prostrated himself, and after the
usual rubbing with dirt, presented me with this bull, which he sent to
Abomey by carriers.

During my stay at Savalu the caboceer supplied me with seventy-seven
large calabashes of ready-cooked provision, besides plenty of fruit,
the principal of which, in use at this season, were the gwaba,
pine-apple, oranges, popans, mangoes, and the kidney cachu. The
caboceer, before leaving his town, begged me to do him the honour to
insert his own and the name of his head men in my book. I here give
them, for they tend to show the names peculiar to different countries:--

  Caboceer                  Bagadee.
  Head men                  Agbuzzee.

  Kootakoo.
  Naghwoolyaemadah.
  Dissou.
  Naghohennah.
  Agyddymoosee.
  Agbadyea.
  Kpwaghooda.
  Agoyae.
  Daffo.
  Bozavee.
  Kudjo.
  Koko.
  Attlah.
  Athaly.
  Dakphway.
  Boka.
  Vaugh.
  Kogilee.
  Lyhoo.
  Bossou.
  Gbazoo.
  Oosa.
  Atholoo.
  Mirahoo.
  Modjekossee.
  Azamodoko.
  Jayaloogo.
  Kudjo 2d.
  Akyea.
  Jagadidjee.
  Yakadya.

  Caboceer’s Head wife      Selamee

The thermometer now ranged from 80° to 73° of Fahrenheit.

It may be well to observe here, that the name of Kudjo is not peculiar
to this country, but rather to the Gold Coast, and is only given to
those who are born on particular days.

After finishing the above ceremony, we marched on our journey, bearing
W.S.W., crossing the range of Savalu Mountains. The grass, which was
very long (being nearly six feet), and hanging across the path, quite
wet from the previous night’s rain, soon drenched us as much as a
heavy rain would have done, but the sun very soon dried all of us,
and perspiration succeeded. At two miles we reached a fine open plain
studded with shea butter-trees, now ripe; their fruit was lying in
large quantities under the trees.

The direction of the path now changed more southward. Here we passed
numbers of ash-trees not different from that of Great Britain, except
that they had a rougher bark, with deeper fracture. Journeying a few
miles farther, we passed through some thick bush, where we found large
quantities of wild grapes hanging in bunches over the path; the vine
clinging to various trees, and running from one to another. This grape
was of the green tribe, very similar to those which ornament the walls
of our cottages in England, but the bunches were not so compact. At
eight miles, we crossed the River Zoka, running S.E. with a rapid
stream, on account of its being the rainy season. At nine miles we
crossed another brook, with excellent water, running in nearly the
same direction.

At fourteen miles, we passed some curious shrubs of the same
description as I observed in the Fellattah country; although in full
vegetation, the leaves were coloured and marked like the feathers of a
partridge. There is here also a great variety of the aloe tribe, some
of which I found to change their colour and marks by transplanting to a
different soil. The wild gwaba is very abundant here, and much larger
than in the neighbourhood of Cape Coast. The yellow fig also abounds
here as well as the kolla-nut.

At fifteen miles, we again crossed the river Zoka, which at this
place runs S.W., twenty yards wide, with rocky bottom. Here we were
detained upwards of two hours, in endeavouring to obtain a canoe,
but as they are generally kept at a great distance from the paths,
it takes several hours to bring them to the place of crossing. In
this instance, however, we were totally defeated, for my messengers
returned with tidings that the canoe was broken, so that we had no
other method of getting across except by swimming. The stream at this
place was very rapid, consequently I deemed it prudent, not to swim
across on horseback, but put on my life-preserver (an American one).
Unfortunately it burst, and was of no use to me, but rather entangled
me; and I was consequently carried a considerable distance obliquely
down the stream. However, I landed safely on some rocks on the opposite
side, but in doing so struck my knee against a rock, cutting a portion
of skin off as well as bruising it.

My next object was to get my luggage across, now much diminished
both in bulk and weight. I caused some poles, which were growing in
abundance on the banks, to be cut into lengths and lashed together, in
the form of a raft. In a piece of rag torn from the flap of my linen, I
tied two bullets, attaching them to the end of a ball of sewing twine,
which was loosely placed in a coil to prevent its getting entangled.
The two bullets were then attached to a stouter piece of string, about
one yard in length, used to sling them across the river. After the
bullets were thrown across I pulled the twine over, to which a line
of about the substance of a clothes’ line was fixed, the other end
of which was fastened to the raft. This was placed on the water a
considerable distance above the landing-place, so as to allow for the
current. Two boxes were placed on the raft, and when ready I pulled
them across. This method was repeated until the whole of my luggage, as
well as that of my officers, was safely landed.

By this time the greater part of my people had swam across also, but my
horse still remained. It was also fastened to the end of the raft line
and soon crossed the stream, but when it reached the opposite bank,
which was nearly perpendicular and the water deep, the poor animal
could not obtain a footing. A number of people pulled it by the halter,
till the headstall gave way. The poor beast, already considerably
exhausted from exertion, now made again for the other side, where it
narrowly escaped being carried over a cataract formed of rocks a little
below the place of crossing. To my great satisfaction, however, the
noble little animal arrived safely on the opposite bank, shook itself,
and neighed, looking across as if conscious of its being on the wrong
side. The little fellow was again haltered with stronger material, and
was launched into the river.

I now placed myself at a part of the bank close to a small creek, where
it reached me without difficulty, being lower down the stream. I at
once saddled him, and resumed our journey.

I ought to have mentioned the gallant manner in which my caboceer and
head men’s wives took the water. They did not even require the raft to
carry their luggage across, the whole of which was contained in large
gourd calabashes, about two feet and a half diameter. These vessels
were guided across with one hand, while the other was used in swimming.
Immediately after crossing the river, it commenced raining very
heavily, and continued to do so for several hours.

The road was now extremely rough and bad, and the path so narrow and
worn by the heavy rains washing away the soil and leaving the rough
iron-stone and large roots crossing at short distances, as to render
the march extremely fatiguing. Many of my poor fellows had their feet
sadly bruised and cut. Having had several attacks of fever, I found
myself considerably weaker within the last few days, and the wound on
my leg daily enlarged and got in a very bad state. Being compelled to
walk during the greater part of the latter end of this day, I felt more
fatigued than I had ever done during the whole of my long journey,
though many of them had been much longer. We crossed several glens and
brooks, with very steep rocky banks, which no English horse would have
even attempted, but so sure-footed are these Badagry horses, that the
little fellow scrambled over all without any serious accident. In one
instance, while climbing a smooth-surfaced granite rock, it slipped
from nearly the top to the bottom, where it crushed one of the holsters
and broke a girth, but it remained uninjured; however, it courageously
made a second attempt, in which it succeeded.

Owing to the road being so bad, we could make but slow progress; we
were consequently benighted, and from the cloudy atmosphere the night
was extremely dark. At last I became reckless, and blundered along with
little or no caution, over rocks, through water, and over large roots,
till about ten o’clock, when we came in sight of the lights of the town
of Jallakoo. We had only made twenty-four miles during the whole of
this long day. Jallakoo, like Savalu, was without walls or any fence.

After crossing the Savalu mountains, I was again in the original
kingdom of Dahomey, Jallakoo being the first Dahoman town in that
direction. We were met at the entrance in the principal market-place
by the old caboceer and his deputy who transacted all his official
affairs. The caboceer was apparently upwards of ninety years of age.
This venerable patriarch was determined to receive me with all the
usual formality, and I was consequently (although I felt completely
exhausted, as well as all my people) requested to dress myself in my
uniform, and so enter the town. Fortunately, my appointments (epaulets
and helmet) were tolerably clean, and had a very good effect by
torch-light. Their torches are made of a very peculiar sort of wood,
which when split into strips burns very brightly. These are sometimes
smeared with the shea-butter.

After entering the town, we were conducted to an inner market-place,
where we again halted to go through all the tedious ceremony of a
Dahoman reception. This I could very willingly have dispensed with,
for I now began to feel very uncomfortable, my under-clothing being
completely saturated with the heavy rain of the afternoon, which had
now ceased. I also felt very sensibly an inclination to ague, which
was considerably advanced by being put into a new house, the walls and
thatch of which were quite green and open on three sides, which were
merely borne on wooden pillars, for they had been informed that I did
not like close or dark lodgings. I put up the little tent which I had
constructed inside of the house; and a bedstead of bamboo with a rush
mattress, which made an excellent bed, having been prepared for me, I
was placed inside of it, and a strong fire immediately kindled close
to me. I then ordered some gruel to be made of native meal, with which
I took a strong dose of James’s powder and opium, and in a short time
the ague ceased, but was immediately followed by a burning fever with
intolerable thirst. I drank about half a pint of water every five
minutes, till at last the perspiration became so copious, that I felt
almost as wet as when in the rain. After this, I felt much easier,
and through the powerful influence of the opium I passed a night of
pleasant and happy dreams, which, on awaking, I sincerely regretted
I could not realize. The caboceer, however, declared his night had
been anything but comfortable or refreshing, for he said I had been
groaning and talking nearly the whole of it, which had much alarmed
him. I felt so considerably weakened from the violence of the attack,
and from such copious perspiration, and the stupifying effects of
the opium, that I was scarcely able to stand on my legs. I rallied,
however, and determined to resist as much as possible the powerful
influence of the fever, and with a little assistance I walked a few
times round the yard, in the centre of which was a fine large spring
well, in the solid rock, with excellent water. Of this I took a copious
draught, which considerably refreshed me.

In a short time the aged caboceer, Nokoomakay, sent twenty large
calabashes, filled with provision, ready cooked for our breakfast; and
immediately afterwards his deputy, Adyamee, sent me thirty-two more
dishes. They both expressed regret that I should suffer from sickness
while in their country, but assured me that nothing should be wanting
on the part of their fetish-men and women in making intercession with
the great Fetish for my immediate recovery, and also expressed their
readiness to supply me with any thing necessary for my comfort. After
this they retired till we should finish our breakfast, when the deputy
caboceer again paid me a visit; and though they both knew I was so ill,
begged that I would favour them with a visit to the old man’s house
in my regimentals and on horseback. Upon remonstrating, I found that
my refusal was likely to create dissatisfaction, especially as his
messenger arrived to inform me that at a council of fetish-men they had
come to the conclusion that I should speedily recover from my present
indisposition.

As soon as possible I prepared myself, and proceeded to the court-yard
of the old caboceer, which was at some distance off. Having a great
many very low doorways to pass through, I was nearly bent double.
My horse also with difficulty passed through without his saddle,
consequently I was prevented mounting until I arrived at the caboceer’s
yard. Here I found the venerable chief seated under the shade of a
large cabbage-tree, in readiness to receive us. Upon entering the
court-yard, I found all his wives and slaves on their knees, with their
hands together and in front of their faces, as if in the attitude of
prayer. Upon a given signal, they all clapped their hands three times,
then a short pause ensued, and the same clapping of hands was repeated
twice more. This is a mode of salutation in Whydah to a superior, as
also as in all the Dahoman kingdom, as well as shaking hands, and
the cracking of the two second fingers of each hand, joined, in the
same manner as cracking the thumb and finger. The old man seemed much
interested in seeing my horse saddled, and also with my arms, and the
manner of placing them on the saddle to carry them. He next put a great
many questions to me respecting white man’s country, and seemed much
astonished at my answers.

The town of Jallakoo is situated on a flat-surfaced rock, at the
base of a mountain, from which the town takes its name. This is the
most picturesque of all the mountains I have yet seen in the Mahee
or Dahoman kingdom. One part of it is formed by the largest blocks
of granite I ever saw, placed irregularly upon each other: in some
respects their position was not unlike Stonehenge. Large cotton-trees
in many instances grew between these immense rocks, which support the
upper or horizontal ones. In fact, I have never seen any thing so grand
and so picturesque as the mountain of Jallakoo. It is also the last we
touch upon on our return to Abomey.

Here I made particular inquiry respecting their mode of agriculture,
and the sort of grain principally used, as well as what was the most
profitable, and its time of ripening. Guinea corn is much used here,
as well as several sorts of maize and rice. I was informed that in
this country the Guinea corn requires nearly seven moons to ripen,
rice five, and maize between four and five months, though at Setta and
Paweea I found a smaller sort of Indian corn, which ripens in two and
a half and three moons, and also another sort which ripens in four
moons. They never consider the utility of selecting any particular
sort of seed; but after my return to Abomey, the King, who is a great
agriculturist, informed me that the latest corn known will, if planted
in the proper season, ripen in less than four moons, and also told me
that the time of ripening had in many instances been mistaken, from
a want of knowledge, and planting the corn too soon before the rainy
season.

We were supplied with plenty of peto during our palaver. Here were
several beautiful crown-birds walking about the market-place quite
tame. The old caboceer expressed great anxiety to have the names of
himself and head men, as well as his principal wive’s name, recorded in
my book; and I here give them according to my promise, as follows:--

  First Caboceer       Nakoomakay.
  Wife’s name          Agbally.
  Second Caboceer      Adyamee.
  Wife’s name          Whendie.


Head men.

  Tetay.[19]
  Atakpa.
  Bosou.[19]
  Kudjo.[19]
  Adamazo.
  Chigyea.
  Dakay.
  Ozee.
  Mokosa.
  Wzoto.
  Tootee.
  Takpwadda.

After this ceremony I was allowed to depart to my own quarters, where
I changed my dress, but had scarcely finished when I was besieged
by visitors from all parts of the town, as well as the neighbouring
villages, many of whom brought me provisions ready cooked, and several
live animals. One rich merchant, named Sisinau, brought me thirty-two
large calabashes of provision, as well as plenty of peto. Many of the
fetish-men and women brought me gruels of various compositions, all of
which were very palatable, being generally sweetened with wild honey,
which is very abundant in the whole of the country traversed in this
direction.

In the evening I was again visited by the two caboceers, whom I
treated with a flask of rum to distribute amongst his head men. I
also gave him a piece of romall (cloth), which I invariably gave the
caboceers in whose towns I lodged, as well as some Jew’s harps, and
two knives, with some papers of needles and a few thimbles, which were
much prized. I then signified my intention to proceed on my journey
early next morning, when the old man pressed me much to stop another
day. This I certainly would have done, had I not been afraid of being
more seriously attacked by fever and ague, as my quarters were very
pleasant, and the people extremely kind. A great many visitors came
with small presents during the remainder of the evening to inquire
after my health, as well as for the purpose of seeing white man, to
all of whom I gave some trifling article in return. The thermometer
ranged at Jallakoo from 71° to 80°, Fahrenheit, which, it will be
observed, is much colder than on the coast in the coldest season.


FOOTNOTES:

[19] The names Tetay, Bosou, and Kudjo, are all common along the coast
from Whydah to Cape Coast, and are given from the days of the week on
which they are born.




                              CHAPTER XI.

 My continued Illness--The Koffo--The Langhbo--Bivouac--Keep
 Sentinel--Shea-butter Trees--Springs impregnated with
 Iron--Gijah--Poverty of the Caboceer--Hospitality of Atihoh, the
 Merchant--Doko--Met by the Avoga of Whydah--Etiquette with regard to
 the Time of entering a Town--Enter Abomey--My Servant Maurice takes
 to his Bed--Sudden Change in the Temperature--Visit to the King--His
 gratification at my safe Return--My Conversation with his Majesty--His
 Views with regard to the Slave Trade--His desire to cede Whydah to the
 English Government--Dictates a Letter to me to that effect--His Costly
 Tobes--Singular Piece of Patch-Work.


August 21st.--Early in the morning I got up to prepare for the march,
but although the attack of ague had been lighter than on the previous
night, I still felt extremely weak and in low spirits. To remedy this,
I again resorted to another dose of sedative of opium, which in a
short time operated effectually. The caboceers and a great part of
the population accompanied me some distance out of the town, during
which the Jallakoo soldiers kept up a constant but irregular fire of
musketry. The old man then shook hands, expressing every good wish for
my future success, hoping that I should soon return to his country
again, that he might see me once more before he should die. This solemn
expression made for a time a deep impression on my mind. Though in a
comparatively savage state this venerable patriarch was conscious that
the hand of death would soon be upon him.

Our bearing was now SS.W. and the plain thickly wooded with shea-butter
and other trees. The road was extremely bad, with rocks resembling
petrified wood of very fine grain with iron-stone rock. The grass was
eight feet long and resembled reeds. At ten miles and a half we crossed
the river Koffo, running NN.E. and at seventeen and a half we crossed
the river Langhbo, running eastward. Being much fatigued, and still
suffering from fever, and no town or village near, we resolved to
encamp on the plain, near this river, where we were sure of obtaining
water. The grass being extremely long, we were obliged to cut it down,
wherever a party of ten or a dozen men selected a place to lie down.
Watch fires were also kindled around the camp, and fortunately, from
the ample means afforded at Jallakoo, we were pretty well stocked with
provisions for one night at least.

This place not being far distant from the Annagoo country, which
people in former times had frequently sent kidnapping parties
stealthily into the outskirts of the Dahoman kingdom, it was considered
necessary to keep sentinels and outposts during the night. Every man
also examined his piece to ascertain if the priming were good. I also
examined the caps of my own piece, but this seemed the reverse of
satisfactory.

The caboceer asked me if I was afraid to trust myself with him,
assuring me that my guard, he knew, would perish to a man before they
would allow me to be molested. I admitted his assertion, but reminded
him that it was always prudent to be, as far as possible, prepared
for the worst. Still he assured me that his men were quite sufficient
for our protection. My cook immediately commenced preparing my supper
of boiled fowls and rice, with a few shalots, which made an agreeable
soup. This, although suffering much from fever, I relished much. I then
took another dose of opium, and soon under its powerful influence fell
fast asleep.

August 22d.--Early in the morning we again prepared for the march.
Several of my men felt the effects of sleeping on the wet ground. I
also for a time felt a cold, shivering sensation, but before mounting
my horse, I took some James’s powder, and, as soon as the sun arose, I
got into a copious perspiration, which considerably relieved me. Our
bearing was now SS.E.; the plain still studded with shea butter-trees
and small shrubs; the road still bad, and worn very deep, like narrow
sheep-tracks.

After marching for twelve miles very rapidly among small rocks, and
across several deeply sunken streams, we passed a great number of shea
butter-trees, which had been lately scorched to destroy the fruit. Here
we found several excellent springs, impregnated with iron, strongly
carbonized, of which I took a copious draught, which proved very
refreshing to me. The road now began to improve, the surface changing
into clay and sand of a drab colour. The stream, for the distance
of two miles, ran along the path, which formed a channel. This gave
my poor fellows an opportunity of cooling their feet, now much cut
and bruised from the bad roads. I halted here for nearly an hour to
give them an opportunity of refreshing themselves, and filling their
calabashes with this water, which was much superior to that which we
were carrying. During the whole of this time, many of my men remained
standing in the water.

At twenty miles we arrived at the town of Gijah, which is a fine open
town of considerable size. The caboceer, though represented to be a
very good and generous character, was extremely poor, consequently,
after calling upon him, and the usual forms of reception had been
observed, we accepted the kind invitation of a wealthy merchant named
Atihoh, who entertained us in a most courteous manner, and in less than
an hour supplied us with abundance of provisions ready cooked, with a
calabash filled with the finest gwabas I ever saw, and plenty of very
good peto. During the evening the caboceer, Agballah, and his head men,
sent me ten large calabashes filled with provision. He did not visit me
till I sent for him, assigning as a reason that he was ashamed of his
poverty.

The poor old man seemed much pleased when I assured him that I was as
glad to see him, as if he had been the richest caboceer in the Dahoman
kingdom. He replied, “White man must be good man, for black man don’t
want to see poor caboceer.” I presented him with a piece of cloth and
some little articles of hardware, which appeared to give him great
satisfaction. I also gave each of his head men some trifling presents.

They were conscious of their master’s poverty, but seemed anxious to
assist him as much as possible, for they sent me, in the caboceer’s
name, twenty-three very large calabashes, filled with provision;
so that with several smaller presents from some of the principal
inhabitants, myself and people were amply supplied with every thing
necessary. During the evening we were visited by great numbers of the
inhabitants, who seemed much gratified with an opportunity of seeing a
white man.

August 23d.--Early in the morning my host paid me the usual morning
visit, bringing me a few choice dishes for my own breakfast, and
also a present of one goat, several fowls, one large African duck,
and a number of rare pigeons with feathered legs and toes, and ten
large dishes of provision for my soldiers. Soon after breakfast we
marched for Doko, accompanied for a short distance by the caboceer and
head-men, attended by about twenty of his soldiers, who kept up an
irregular firing of muskets as far as they accompanied us.

After leaving the town the distance of three miles, the road again
became very bad, and my little horse lost one of its shoes, and soon
began to show its loss. However, this day’s journey was a very short
one, and we marched at a very rapid rate, which, in short journeys,
we always found less fatiguing than marching at a slow rate, and
remaining long on foot, exposed to the sun. At twelve miles we arrived
at Doko, where we were met by the caboceer and his elder brother, the
caboceer of Whydah, who had remained at Abomey ever since I had left
that capital for the Mahee and Fellattah country. He had been sent this
stage to meet me by order of his Majesty.

The caboceer of Whydah is called the avoga, or captain, caboceer of
white men, which accounts for his being sent instead of Mayho, to meet
me. He being an excellent fellow, I felt much gratification in thus
unexpectedly meeting him. Awassoo, the caboceer of Doko, having already
been acquainted with my intended visit, had prepared dinner for myself
and party, which consisted of twenty-two large dishes of provision.
The avoga had also brought with him plenty of liquors of different
descriptions, which were very freely distributed among the people. I
was now considerable recovered from the effects of my fever, so that
I could take part in their merriment and jest. My guard were now near
home, and, although two days before, the poor fellows were worn out
with fatigue and foot-sore, they were now all life and jollity over
their peto-pots, in which they indulged very freely. Merriment was kept
up till a late hour, and this being a small town, nearly the whole of
the inhabitants came to bid us welcome.

Aug. 24th.--About sunrise we began to prepare for marching, but as our
journey was a very short one, we remained several hours longer, so that
we might arrive at Abomey about mid-day. It is a custom in Dahomey for
all strangers of note visiting that capital to enter the town when the
sun is at its meridian. This is considered to be a necessary observance
for all distinguished visitors.

Upon entering the outer gates of Abomey, we were met by Mayho, and
several distinguished members of his Majesty’s household, with an
additional band of music, which played till my arrival at my old
quarters. Upon entering, I must confess I felt great satisfaction, and
a feeling of gratitude to the Great Ruler of all things flashed over
my mind. My first inquiry was, whether my white servant, Maurice,
whom I sent back from Baffo, was still alive, not finding him in the
apartment formerly occupied by him. I was told he was still alive, and
until he heard the sound of the drums announcing my return was walking
about occasionally, and giving directions respecting his cooking; Mayho
having appointed a cook and other attendants to wait on him. But on our
entering the gates he took to his bed, and never again seemed to rally.
I visited him immediately, but found him much reduced. He told me that
every attention had been paid to him, and that the King had appointed
a native doctor to attend him, but he was now suffering from dysentery
and quite exhausted.

I used the prescribed remedies as far as my means extended, but having
no European provision, I was compelled to do the best I could with
him upon native diet. I had great difficulty in convincing him of my
forgiveness for his conduct, which I have already mentioned. He fancied
that my intention was upon my return to the coast to deliver him up to
the authorities for punishment; and I cannot help thinking that in
spite of my assurance to the contrary, the poor fellow would never
believe that I should not do so.

Aug. 25th.--The weather now suddenly became alarmingly cold for an
African climate. This was accompanied with heavy rains. During the
night the thermometer fell to 70°, and at noon on the following day
did not rise higher than 77° Fahrenheit. In the night many of my
people caught cold, as well as myself. My poor servant Maurice was
still extremely low, and without any hopes of recovery. I ordered some
warm water and soap to be brought to me, and with my sponge I washed
the whole of his person. At the same time I changed the whole of his
clothes and had them washed.

The King now sent for me to the palace, where he received me with
every mark of kindness and respect; and after shaking me heartily by
the hand, immediately proposed the health of the Queen of England and
all the royal family. In return, of course, I proposed the health of
himself. My own health was next drank, after which the King gave me a
familiar slap on the back with his open hand, saying, “White man don’t
know proper fear, nor take proper care. In black man’s country,” he
said, “I make him much fear, when he hear I go into far country beyond
Mahee,” meaning the Fellattah country. This was conveyed to me by my
own interpreter. He asked me, what the Queen of England would say if I
had been killed, when in his care or under his protection. He added,
that all white men would say, his own people had killed me, and that
would bring shame upon his head.

He, however, expressed his great satisfaction at my safe return, and
put a thousand questions to me respecting the Fellattah country, and
whether they mentioned his name there, together with numerous questions
respecting their soldiers. He next spoke upon the Slave Trade, and
asked if I could not make intercession with Her Majesty of England to
send an order to our men-of-war not to take any slave ships till they
had entirely left the coast. I told him that it would be more for his
advantage that the slaves should be captured by English men-of-war, as
a greater number would be required to fill their places.

His reply was very different to what I had expected. He explained,
that although he supposed many white men believed he sold the greater
part of the slaves sent from that country, he could assure me it
was not the case; but the caboceers, whose soldiers captured them,
were always considered to be the owners of slaves taken in war, when
the enemy were the aggressors, with the exception of those who were
considered unfit for the market. These latter were considered to be
his (the King’s) property, and were sent to the different palaces to
assist in the duties of those establishments; but he admitted that all
prisoners taken by his wives, or female soldiers, were his property,
and that the caboceers always pay a nominal duty upon all slaves taken
in war when sold. From various inquiries I was informed that by far
the greater number of slaves transported from this country are either
the property of those on whose establishments they are bred, or are
purchased from the parents who are free; though at the decease of any
caboceer, the whole of his property is considered as belonging to the
King. The present King, however, seldom exercises his authority on
these occasions.

They asked the reason why Englishmen had abandoned the Slave-Trade, and
how we obtained people to perform labour. I told him that Englishmen
were now disgusted with the conduct of their forefathers in making a
property of the poor black man, who, because he was uneducated, was
sold like sheep, and sent to a far country, and there compelled to
labour for the remainder of his life in bondage; that Englishmen had
paid an enormous sum of money for the liberation of their slaves, and
were determined that the black man should be considered on an equality
with a white man, and were endeavouring to teach them “sense,” the
term he used for education. He had reminded me, that he had sent some
boys and girls to the Mission-school at Cape Coast to learn _sense_,
like white men, saying that he could (when they returned) communicate
directly with the English governor at Cape Coast without sending his
messages through the Spanish or Portuguese.

To the next question, I replied, we could get plenty of labourers to
work voluntarily, by paying them sufficient to keep them in food and
clothing; but he declared that unless a slave, black man would never do
any work except on his own plantation. However, he expressed his high
opinion of Englishmen for condescending to put themselves upon the same
level as black men, at the same time remarking that it was no wonder
his father always taught him to respect an Englishman.

He admitted our principles to be very humane and just, but remarked,
that it would be difficult to abolish slave-holding in his country,
as the children of all slaves were the property of the owner of the
parent, and were treated as one of his own family; and that if a king
were to interfere and abolish this law, it would cause a revolution
in the kingdom, as it would affect all his head men and half heads,
besides rendering those domestic slaves homeless and destitute.

I told him it was not domestic slavery that we so much objected to,
as the forcing them from their homes and kindred, separating them for
ever from all relatives, and dooming them to incessant labour all
their lives. He asked me whether, when parents voluntarily sold their
children, they would then feel any regret. I replied, if the parents
did not, they were unnatural, and I was sure that the children would;
and to illustrate this, I pointed out a she-goat with two kids, and
asked him if one were taken away, whether the young would not show
symptoms of regret as well as the mother. At this he laughed heartily,
but remarked, that the he-goat, the father of the kids referred to,
would feel quite indifferent. I could not help smiling in return.

The King touched his forehead with his fingers, saying, Englishman
was wonderful and good man. He then declared that for his own part
he had no wish to maintain the Slave-Trade, neither did he wish to
store riches. All he required was to have sufficient income to pay his
officers and caboceers the usual quantity of cowries to present his
people with, as is usual at the annual custom. This was the full extent
of his ambition.

I then proposed to him that he should extend agriculture, and establish
a permanent trade, which would be encouraged by all civilized nations;
and observed, that by imposing a slight duty upon all articles of
trade, besides the profits he might obtain, a revenue would be created
for him much superior to what he derived from the slave-dealing.
He replied, that he was very willing to adopt the proposed measure
if England would only make some proposals to him on the subject. I
explained at some length the nature and system of trade, with which
he was quite unacquainted. He remarked that he had been informed, we
had condescended to make treaties with and had sent missionaries to
the Calabar and Bonny rivers, to the petty chiefs of those places,
whose treaties could be of no permanent duration or benefit, as they
possessed no territory, nor had they any fixed laws; besides, they were
always involved in wars with the petty neighbouring states; so that
they were often chiefs to-day, and had their heads cut off the next;
that they could neither ensure any permanent trade with us, nor afford
us any protection in the event of our establishing factories at any of
these places.

He said he should be ready and very glad to make any reasonable
arrangement with the English Government for the abolition of slavery,
and the establishment of another trade, and added, that though he had
invited us to send missionaries to his country to advise with him, none
but one English fetishman, Mr. Freeman, the Wesleyan missionary (of
whom he spoke highly), had visited him; that all he wanted was to see
plenty of Englishmen in his kingdom, and especially in his capital. He
also offered to build them houses to live in, without any charge, and
give them as much land as they chose to cultivate.

He expressed his ardent desire to encourage cultivation and a system of
agriculture; and reminded me, that he had long ago issued orders that
all the spare land in and round the town of Griwhee (Whydah) should be
cultivated with a view of lessening the chances of epidemic diseases.
He also expressed his earnest desire to give up Whydah to the English
Government, with full powers to exercise our own laws and customs; and
also declared his readiness to afford us every necessary assistance and
protection, and to give us any quantity of land in the vicinity of that
settlement we might require for agricultural purposes.

He added, that when we should have obtained possession of Whydah,
we should have power to use our own discretion respecting the
Slave-Trade; and that, as Whydah was the principal residence of the
greatest slave-dealers on this part of the coast, we could with much
more propriety exert our authority to prevent slave traffic than he
himself, particularly as he was under great obligations to a certain
large slave-merchant in that settlement. He said, moreover, that he
had always entertained a hope that some day or other the English
would again establish themselves in Whydah, in consequence of which
he had always kept a temporary governor in the English fort since our
abandonment of the place.

He declared that he would build us a new fort, either on the old site,
or on any other spot, upon our own plan, and at his own expense. He
had, he said, refused possession of Whydah to the Prince de Joinville,
stating his determination to treat with none but the Queen of England,
who was the greatest of all white sovereigns; that he had for a length
of time been endeavouring to establish, as far as he was able, a code
of laws similar to those of England; for he considered them to be more
just in most cases than the old Dahoman laws, which he confessed to
be very absurd. But, though he thought so, still as many of the old,
absurd customs, which still existed, were of a comparatively harmless
nature, he had hitherto permitted them to remain, as he considered
it dangerous amongst a people so long accustomed to these usages to
revolutionize the whole at once; but he approved of commencing with the
most unreasonable and injurious, and gradually progressing, as in fact
he had done. He also assured me that the good effects of his new laws
were manifest even in the Mahee country, for within the last two years
several petty kingdoms in that and the Annagoo country had voluntarily
been ceded to his government.

He dictated to me a letter to the Secretary of State for the Colonies,
in which he formally ceded Whydah to the English Government. After
this letter was concluded, he requested me to read it over, lest any
mistake should have occurred; and when he found it satisfactory, he
held the upper end of the pen while I signed his name. We then drank
to the health of her Britannic Majesty, during which a constant fire
of musketry was kept up. I next proposed the King of Dahomey’s health,
which was followed by his drinking my own health. He then ordered an
immense quantity of variegated umbrellas, or rather canopies, to be
brought out for my inspection, and requested me to make a memorandum of
several of their patterns, desiring me to order a number of them to be
sent from England.

He afterwards showed me about forty tobes of the most costly embroidery
in gold and silver, on a ground of silk velvet of various colours. I
was also shown a piece of patch-work, which I believe I have previously
alluded to, which the King boasted was composed of remnants or
specimens of cloth from every country of the civilized world, as well
as every country in Africa. This piece of patch-work, I was informed,
measures one thousand yards in length, and eight yards in breadth. I
was next desired to take a drawing of the King’s throne or chair of
state. This is a very handsome and ingenious piece of carving, from one
solid piece of wood. It has three seats, one elevated about two feet
above the other, the first and second forming steps to the highest; on
the highest the King never sits except on state occasions. Three skulls
form a foot-stool to the first seat being those of three kings killed
in battle.

[Illustration]




                             CHAPTER XII.

 Conversation with the King of Dahomey continued--Visit Coomassie,
 another Palace of the King--Great Number of Human Skulls--Skulls of
 Kings taken in Battle--Death-drums--Peculiarity of Skulls--Craniums
 of the Fellattahs--Skulls of Rival Kings--Criminal Case heard by
 the King, and his Award--Death of my Servant Maurice--Regret of
 the King--Christian Burial of my Servant--The King’s Kindness to
 me--My increasing Illness and Depression of Spirits--Method of
 Procuring Food in the Bush by the Dahoman Soldiers--My Alarm at
 the Dangerous State of my Wound--Make Preparations to amputate
 my Limb--My Recovery--My last Conversation with the King--The
 King’s Presents to the Queen of England--Present from him to her
 Majesty of a Native Girl--Escorted out of Abomey, and Departure for
 Whydah--Absurd Custom--Canamina--Ahgrimah--My Pigeons from the Kong
 Mountains--Non-Arrival of some of my Carriers--Punishment awarded them
 for their Roguery on their Arrival.


August 26th.--The King again sent for me to visit him at the palace.
He met me in his usual familiar manner, with a hearty shake of the
hand, and a familiar slap on my back with his open hand. A table had
been already spread with the necessary viands. He proposed the Queen
of England’s health; after which he wished me to proceed to a large
palace, about a mile distant, called Coomassie, (after the capital
of Ashantee), there to take the plan and dimensions of a number
of different sized war tents. These displayed ingenuity and taste,
superior to many European nations. The King ordered a number similar
to them to be made in England, and sent to him as soon as possible.
This palace was built and named about the time when the present King
threw off his allegiance to the kingdom of Ashantee, the King of which
formerly boasted that he could hold Dahomey in vassalage.

After the building of this palace, the King of Dahomey declared himself
capable of holding Ashantee in vassalage. The palace is considered
memorable on this account. In this as well in several other palaces we
visited on this day, we were entertained with every variety of luxuries
used at the King’s table. Upon my return to his Majesty, I found a
number of people busily employed in carrying out of the stores a number
of human skulls, taken in various countries during the wars. Previous
to my journey into the mountains, I had made a request to the King for
leave to inspect a few skulls of natives of the different countries
he had conquered, with the view of comparing them, and also to make
drawings of some of them.

When between two and three thousand skulls had been carried out and
placed in the parade-ground in front of the palace, I begged the King
not to send for any more. His state chair was placed in the centre of a
circle, formed by arranging the large calabashes or gourds containing
the skulls, in that form. The heads of the kings were placed in large
brass pans, about two feet in diameter. The heads of caboceers and
head-men were in calabashes about the same size as the former; and
to my great astonishment, when curiosity prompted me to make inquiry
respecting any one of these skulls, a long detail was immediately given
me of all the circumstances connected with the parties when alive.

Though these people do not write, with the exception of the Mohammedan
portion of them, yet they possess very retentive memories. The
death-drums were also brought out on this occasion. They were four in
number, and of different sizes, but much larger than the large drums
in use in the British army. The largest measured nine feet four inches
in length, and the whole were ornamented with human skulls, several of
which I observed were deficient of any suture across the upper part.
This appeared in the proportion of one in twelve, and the skulls
without any longitudinal division were as one in twenty-seven. I found
the skulls of the Mahees generally to recede from the nasal bone or
lower part of the forehead to the top in a greater angle than those of
any other country.

The Fellattahs are very different in their cranium and general
development from the others, having high, square foreheads, and a quick
and bright eye. They are slighter in person than either the Dahomans
or Mahees; but are generally well formed, sinewy in their limbs, and
capable of enduring great fatigue. The Dahomans are a very fine and
generally tall race of people, both male and female, and the most
honest of any people I ever met with.

It is worthy of remark, that unlike any other uncivilized people I have
seen, during my stay at Abomey I was never asked by any individual for
an article of even the most trifling value, nor ever lost anything,
except what was stolen by my people from the coast. The Dahoman
laws are certainly severe, but they have the desired effect. In the
collection of skulls, I found a number of them ornamented with brass,
and rivetted together with iron. These were the heads of rival kings,
who were killed by the King’s women, or wives. Amongst these was the
richly ornamented skull of the King of Nahpoo, in the Annagoo country;
his name was Adaffo. His town was taken, and he himself made prisoner,
by the female regiments, commanded by the female commander, Apadomey.
Many of the skulls still retained the hair. It appears that this
part of the human body has always been a favourite ornament on the
palace-walls of Abomey, and even in the walls, entrance of gateways,
and doorways; though the present King has not placed them on the walls
of the new palace called Coomassie.

A guard is mounted every morning at each of the palaces, and there
is a resident governor. After taking several drawings of the skulls
of several kings killed in war, his Majesty invited me to be present
at the trial of a prisoner who had been brought from a town in the
Mahee country, where he had already been tried, upon an accusation of
adultery with one of the caboceers’ wives, and the sentence of death
had been passed upon him. The man, however, being conscious of his
innocence, appealed to the Court of Abomey, where all the witnesses
were again examined and cross-questioned by the King himself. It was
now distinctly proved that the whole was a false accusation, and the
poor fellow was immediately liberated; but the caboceer, who had been
his accuser, and fourteen of his false witnesses, were seized and
imprisoned for trial on a future day, when doubtless the whole of them
would suffer death.

The King, with great satisfaction, pointed out to me the beneficial
effects of this new law which he had made, observing that formerly, in
the Mahee country, when a caboceer felt animosity against a person in
his power, he could at any time get up an accusation against him, and
also ensure such evidence as would suit his purpose; but that now the
accused had the power of appealing to the court of Abomey, which had
been the means of effectually checking such practices, as he invariably
put the accusers to death when he found the accused to be innocent.

As I felt very unwell and feverish, I begged the King to allow me to
return to my quarters, which he readily acceded to, and with his usual
kindness inquired if he could do any thing for me. He walked with me
nearly to my dwelling, during which a continual fire of musketry was
kept up until I entered my own gates.

I found my servant, Maurice, still weaker, and could not prevail on
him to partake of any nourishment. It was now evident that his earthly
career was near its termination. I asked him if he would like me to
read prayers to him; and intimated to him the near approach of his
dissolution. He consented to my reading prayers; but said, he thought
he should recover. I asked him to give me his father’s address, so that
in the event of his death I might write to him; but, for what reason
I am at a loss to imagine, he refused to give it me, but confessed
that he had been using a false name; and that his father’s name was
not Maurice. He expressed a wish to be carried to Whydah, which was
speedily arranged to be done on the following morning. My fever
increasing, I was now compelled to go to bed.

Early on the 27th August the carriers reported themselves ready
to proceed with Maurice to Whydah. By this time, my fever had
so increased, that from giddiness I was unable to stand without
assistance; and poor Maurice, being brought in upon the hammock,
proved to be in a dying state; and in a few minutes afterwards expired
without a struggle. A messenger was immediately sent to the King to
inform him of the melancholy fact, who expressed extreme regret at it,
remarking that he feared the occurrence might prevent other Englishmen
from visiting him; but I told him that it was the will of God, and that
no person was to blame; on the contrary, that every thing had been
done which our means afforded. The King then ordered four men to dig
a grave for Maurice, and sent me a flask of rum to give the carriers
and grave-diggers. He also sent two fine cloths to wrap the body in.
He would not allow it to be interred in the sepulchre appointed for
strangers, but it was buried in the court-yard in front of Mayho’s
house, with every mark of respect.

Great attention was paid by all the spectators during the
burial-service, which I read. I was now left without a white man, and,
for a moment, I felt the loneliness of my situation. This melancholy
feeling was augmented by my severe indisposition. My wounded leg began
to swell and to become discoloured. In the afternoon, the King sent
for me to come and see him, if possible. I felt myself unable to walk,
but was carried in a hammock to the palace. The King seemed in great
trouble at my illness. He told me that he had sent for me to show me
an elephant which had been killed by one of Mayho’s soldiers. He wished
to know if I could preserve a part of it to take with me to Whydah,
for which place I intended to proceed in a few days. I told him that I
was afraid I could not preserve it, so as to be able to carry it with
me; he promised to send me a dish of the flesh for my dinner on the
following day.

He begged me to join in drinking the health of the Queen of England
and the whole of the Royal Family, in cherry brandy, which he strongly
recommended as beneficial in all cases of fever. This I did: he then
informed me that he had a regiment of female soldiers (his wives), as
well as a regiment of males, on the parade in front of the palace,
waiting to show me how they procured their food when in the bush.

At that moment, I felt myself a much fitter subject for my mat or
bed; but, as this parade was got up entirely for my gratification, I
determined to remain as long as possible. Accordingly, I accompanied
the King to the parade-ground, where we found the male and female
soldiers formed in line, with front and rear ranks, the latter on the
right. At seventy yards’ distance from their front was a high swish,
or clay wall, parallel with the line of soldiers. Close to this were
fastened, by pegs driven into the ground, a number of sheep, goats,
ducks, guinea-fowls, and the common fowl. The whole were placed in that
position for the purpose of illustrating the method by which the army
procured its food when on march in the bush, which abounds with game.
Each of the soldiers was armed either with a long Danish or English
musket, charged with iron bullets.

The females commenced firing from the right, advancing one pace to the
front in succession, as they came to the present. I was certainly much
surprised to see the certainty of their deadly aim. Although at seventy
yards distance, very few missed their object; and I did not observe
one who fired wide of a man’s body. The female commanders presented me
with eight large Muscovy ducks and some Guinea-fowls. The male soldiers
fired with even more precision than the females, but I believe that the
whole of them were picked shots; but even if that were the case, the
feat was astonishing, and would have done credit to our best riflemen.
I became so much exhausted and sick at the stomach at last, that I was
obliged to be immediately carried home. My leg, also, was now very much
swollen, and darker in colour, and became very painful, with every
symptom of gangrene or mortification. I confess I felt considerable
alarm at observing these symptoms so rapidly increasing. By this
time, however, I had become inured to hardships and suffering, and
had learned to set little value upon my life, and could very readily
have reconciled myself to share the same grave with poor Maurice. My
principal anxiety was respecting my Journal, a great part of which
was only in notes; consequently the probability was that my kind and
generous patrons would never get possession of it, though this was the
only tribute of gratitude I should ever have it in my power to return
them. I, therefore, made up my Journal and papers in the form of a
parcel, addressed to the Geographical Society, with strict injunctions
to my servants to forward them to Mr. Hutton of Cape Coast.

My people were very much alarmed at my condition, as were also Mayho
and the King’s messengers, who visited me every two hours. My leg was
still rapidly getting worse, the blackness progressing upwards. I now
began to measure my time, calculating upon my death before morning. I
had seen several amputations performed, and came to the determination
to attempt to amputate my own leg, should it appear absolutely
necessary. In the meantime, I ordered poultices to be prepared from
Indian corn meal, and yeast from the peto. This was immediately
applied. I then had all my amputating instruments placed in readiness,
with the necessary quantity of bandages; and I instructed my people
what they were to do in the event of my fainting while endeavouring
to perform the operation. They did not seem altogether to relish my
instructions, but promised to do their best in obedience to my orders.

It may be considered that madness alone could have suggested such an
attempt; but it must also be observed, that necessity under certain
circumstances urges the performance of many things bordering on
impossibilities; and in despair we are always ready to grasp even at a
shadow of hope.

However, thank God! I had not occasion to make the attempt. The
poultices had the desired effect, for in the morning the swelling
was considerably reduced, and the colour turned from black to a pink
or light purple colour, except round the wound, which sloughed, and
the flesh dropped from the bone, causing much pain. Mayho visited me
early, and seemed much pleased when I informed him of my improvement.
My spirits also were much revived, and having some remnants of cotton
print left, I made a frock for Mayho’s youngest boy, with which he
seemed very much pleased. I also made Mayho a waistcoat of the same
material.

On the 28th I was able to visit the King, to whom I intimated a wish
to depart on the following day for Whydah. He said that he felt very
reluctant to part with me, and wished very much that I would remain in
his capital; at the same time admitting the necessity of my hurrying
home to deliver his message to the Queen of England, and expressing
his great disappointment that Mr. Freeman had not visited him a second
time. He again spoke very highly of him, and expressed a great wish to
have an English missionary and school for mechanics in his capital. He
begged me to point out the necessity of this upon my return to England.

The King now ordered Mayho to get carriers ready for my departure for
the coast. The bullocks and goats, which had been presented to me, had
been forwarded already, leaving only the bipeds which were to accompany
me when I should leave. His Majesty sent me a present of three pieces
of royal cloth, as well as two pieces for the Queen of England, as
specimens of their manufacture. He also sent a very handsome young girl
as a present for Her Majesty. This child was about seven years old, and
was the daughter of a Mahee king, killed in the late war. He also sent
me eighteen heads of cowries, valued at the same number of dollars, to
defray my expenses to Whydah, and two kegs of rum to treat my people
with, with his best wishes for my welfare, and hoping I should soon
return to visit his kingdom.

During the whole of my stay in Abomey I had received the most unbounded
kindness from the King, as well as from his principal officers, and,
as I have before stated, I had never been solicited for any thing by
way of dash or present. But I had in my possession a walking-stick,
which contained a spring dagger; this the King seemed to admire much,
I therefore asked him to accept it as a present, for which he heartily
thanked me, saying that he should be very glad to do so when I returned
from the Kong Mountains, remarking that in all probability I should
meet with some very bad people while in the Mahee country. After my
return I offered him the stick, which he again refused, saying that
he would wait till I had safely arrived at Griwhee (Whydah). He would
send a messenger with me thither for the purpose of carrying it back to
Abomey. He also ordered three caboceers to accompany me on my journey
to the coast.

All was now arranged for my departure on the following morning. I was
still very weak, and quite lame from the large wound in my leg, which
was on the lower part of the calf, four inches in length and about
one and a half in breadth; but my little horse had now recovered from
his long journey, and was in high condition for another. I therefore
resolved to pursue my journey, as I had intended.

August 29th.--At daybreak a messenger came before I arose from my mat,
to inquire after the state of my health, with orders to ascertain
whether I considered myself quite capable of undertaking my journey,
to which I replied in the affirmative. In a short time afterwards
breakfast was sent as usual, and a number of my carriers arrived.

It is always considered consistent with court etiquette here, as I have
previously stated, that a stranger visiting his Majesty should arrive
and depart from the capital as nearly as possible when the sun is at
its meridian, consequently various excuses were made to detain me till
that period, when I was escorted out of the town by my excellent old
friend Mayho, and many more of the principal men, with a band of music,
till we crossed the bridge over the moat outside the town walls. Here I
was given up to the charge of the three caboceers before mentioned.

About two hundred yards from the gates is a fetish-house, in passing
which all persons are compelled to dismount, if carried, and walk past
a certain distance; but the King had very kindly forwarded an order to
the fetish-man, to allow me to ride, on account of my lameness, at
which every man seemed much amazed, saying that no man ever rode over
the same ground before.

I was very much surprised to see one of my fowls tied by the feet lying
at the door of the fetish-house, which of course led to some inquiries.
I was informed that while the man carrying my fowls was passing the
place, this cock had crowed, and consequently he had become the
property of the head fetishman. The man who carried the basket had not
proceeded farther, but waited till I arrived, to explain the matter. I
made some objections to submit to such a ridiculous custom, whereupon a
messenger was immediately sent to the King, who sent an order to give
up the cock, and also intimated that it was not his wish to compel an
Englishman to observe black man’s laws, remarking that Englishmen can
do no wrong.

When we arrived at Canamina we overtook two of my carriers, who, though
big, strong-looking men, were quite exhausted, and unable to proceed.
Had I been furnished with female carriers, I should have found no
difficulty. However, I hired an assistant carrier, before I could get
the men to proceed. After a tiresome ride, we arrived at Ahgrimah. When
dismounting I was quite exhausted, and my leg and foot swollen so much,
that my cloth boot had burst, and I suffered very much for upwards
of two hours from pain in my wound. Here I was much amused with the
pigeons which I had brought from the Kong Mountains. Though I had three
different specimens, all rare, they had now become so much reconciled
to each other as to be all of one family, as it were.

Whenever we halted for the night, and they were released from the gourd
in which they were carried, they never attempted to leave me, but kept
walking to and fro, near the spot where I lay, till they were fed; and
when darkness came on, they huddled themselves close to my person. I
was very much annoyed here on account of several of my carriers not
arriving, particularly as my camp-kettle had not come. I managed,
however, to get a meal from the natives.

Aug. 30th.--As soon as I awoke I inquired after my luggage, and found
that two of my principal boxes had not arrived. Whereupon I despatched
a trusty messenger, sent by Mayho to accompany me to Whydah to carry
back my coat, which I had promised that excellent old man, being the
only thing I now possessed worth his acceptance. He hastened back
to Abomey, to report the delay to his master, who had furnished the
carriers. Mayho immediately sent fresh men with orders to punish the
villains who had hung back, as, he said, he had himself examined each
of their loads, and found them all considerably under the regulated
weight for carriers.

At last the men arrived, accompanied by my messenger and fresh
carriers, late in the afternoon. Immediately on their arrival, the
offenders were brought before the caboceers for judgment; and, after a
short palaver, they were sentenced to be beaten with a stick as many
times as I should deem sufficient. Two men were sent into the bush
for some rods, who soon returned with five, about one yard in length
and about the thickness of a man’s middle finger. The offenders were
then ordered to kneel down before me to receive their punishment;
but although they had been the cause of much uneasiness to me, I
could not consent to such a severe mode of punishment, particularly
as all my Dahoman people had hitherto conducted themselves well; I
therefore ordered them both to be released, for they had already been
pinioned. The poor fellows were very grateful for this act of kindness:
the caboceers also were much gratified, and my day’s detention was
beneficial in resting my lame leg.




                             CHAPTER XIII.

 Akpway--Superstition of the Natives--Singular proceeding of my
 Bullock-Drivers--Arrival at Whydah--Kind Reception by Don Francisco
 de Suza--Kindness of all the Merchants--Parting Interview with M. de
 Suza--Sail for Cape Coast--Terror of the Mahee Girl (presented to the
 Queen) at the Roughness of the Sea--Arrival at Cape Coast--Kindness
 of Mr. Hutton--Dr. Lilley--Recover from my Fever--Kindness of the
 Wesleyan Missionaries--General Character of Africans--Hints with
 regard to Educating them--Observations on the Manners and Customs of
 the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah Countries--Enlightened Conduct of
 the King of Dahomey--The Dahomans--Trade of Dahomey--Paganism--The
 Mahees--The Kong Mountains--Sail for England.


Aug. 31st.--We marched early in the morning, and about mid-day passed
through Akpway, and rested for half an hour, partaking of some
refreshment; and after marching for another hour and a half we arrived
at Whyboe, where we halted for the night.

Sept. 1st.--In passing through a thick wood, a tree had either fallen
across the path, or been felled down purposely, so that it with its
thick branches entirely blocked up the way. Here the whole of my
party were at a stand-still, and could not be prevailed upon to remove
the tree so as to enable them to pass, declaring that the fetish had
placed it there for a certain purpose, unknown to us. However, it was
fortunately only a small tree; I therefore dismounted, and removed
it sufficiently to allow us to pass. At this the men seemed somewhat
ashamed of their credulity; but before we had proceeded much farther,
a more formidable obstacle presented itself, which almost convinced me
that some old fetish-man had been exerting his wizard powers to play me
some unlucky cantrip. The head of a young bull, apparently newly cut
off, was placed in the middle of the path. Upon a close inspection I
found it to be the head of one of my own bullocks, which was reported
sick the day previously to my marching from Abomey.

Nothing more worthy of notice occurred till we approached Whydah, when,
at a little distance from that town, we met the men, who had driven
my bullocks, returning. I asked them respecting it, and why the head
was placed in the path. They replied, that as the animal could proceed
no farther, they thought it best to kill it, and dispose of the meat
in the most advantageous manner; but lest I should suppose the animal
had not been dead, the head had been left in the path, to allow me the
satisfaction of ocular demonstration.

Upon our arrival in Whydah, according to custom, I reported my return
to the caboceer, or avoga, as he is called here, who received me very
cordially. He then accompanied me to old Don Francisco, who had so
kindly exerted his influence with the King on my behalf in furthering
the objects of my travels into the interior. Unfortunately the old man
was suffering much from rheumatism, and had for several days refused
to see any one, but he readily received me. He cordially congratulated
me on my success, declaring that nothing could have afforded him more
gratification than the news of my grand and generous reception by the
King at Abomey, and assuring me that he should be at all times ready to
assist any Englishman by all means in his power. I asked him for a bill
of the goods and articles he had furnished me for presents to the King;
but as yet the generous old man has never furnished me with any, though
they must have cost him about one hundred pounds. He also begged me to
let him know how he could further serve me, telling me that anything in
his extensive stores was at my service.

Owing to M. de Suza’s severe indisposition, I made but a short stay,
and hastened to the English fort, where I found many old friends
anxiously waiting to see me and welcome me back. Mr. R. Hanson, agent
for Mr. Hutton of Cape Coast, with whom I lived previously to my
journey into the interior, gave me a very cordial welcome, and rendered
me every assistance in his power, while suffering from fever, after my
return to Whydah. I also received great kindness from Mr. James Hanson,
of Ahguay, who was on business at Whydah, and, in fact, I experienced
every mark of civility and kindness from the gentlemen, Americans,
French, Spanish, and Portuguese, with whom I became acquainted during
my residence in Whydah.

My state of health was but little better for some time, though the
wound in my leg seemed to improve in condition. A few days after my
return to Whydah, the _Jane_ of London, Captain Lee, Commander, arrived
in the roadstead, to take in goods for Mr. Hutton. The captain had
suffered much from fever but was now slowly recovering. To him I feel
indebted for much kindness. He afforded me, with my stock of animals, a
free passage to Cape Coast, for which place we were to sail on the 20th
of September.

The day previous to my sailing, my old friend, De Suza, sent for me to
bid me good-bye. He was very ill in bed, and scarcely able to speak. He
begged me to let his agent know if I should be in want of anything from
his stores, and assured me that whatever I might require was quite at
my service. I was, however, already under so many obligations to him
that I declined accepting anything further, but again asked him for my
bill, with which he declined to furnish me.

At parting he shook me by the hand, and in a low whisper bade me a long
good-bye, with every wish for my future happiness. I could not help
feeling regret at that moment that such a man should be coupled with
traffic so abominable as that of buying and selling human beings; for
he universally bears the character of the most generous and humane man
on the coast of Africa, which character I am also bound to give him so
far as I am concerned.

Early on the morning of the 20th September, I went on board the _Jane_;
Mr. R. Hanson kindly rendering me every assistance, by furnishing
carriers for my luggage and cattle to the beach which is distant two
miles. The morning was unfavourable on account of the heavy rains.
The little Mahee girl in my charge had never before seen the sea, and
consequently felt much alarm. She could scarcely be urged to go into
the canoe, though I told her she was going back to her Abomey mother,
of whom she was very fond. Unfortunately the sea was very high and the
surf heavy, and though the canoemen displayed great skill in managing
their boat, yet a sea passed completely over us from bow to stern,
filling it, which, but for the buoyancy of the wood of which it is
formed, must have sunk. However, so long as the canoe can be kept end
on the surf, the danger is not great. The canoes are all made from the
cotton-tree.

The little girl, who was upon her knees in the bottom of the canoe,
had certainly little cause to be pleased with a sea life, and is very
likely to remember her first sea voyage for a long time. As soon as
the little creature was able, for she was almost suffocated by the
surf, she called out for her Abomey mother.

We soon got the water baled out and reached the _Jane_ without another
washing. Captain Lee kindly offered me dry clothing, but the greater
part of my luggage was not yet on board, consequently I remained on
deck till all was safe, with the exception of a few articles which
undoubtedly were stolen, but I may congratulate myself that I was not a
loser to a greater extent.

The ship soon got under weigh, and was shortly afterwards boarded
by H.M.S. Brig _Ranger_, who kindly offered me medical aid. On the
following day I had a severe attack of fever, but, through Captain
Lee’s kind attention, I suffered comparatively little, though from
so many recent attacks I was extremely weak and reduced in flesh.
Our progress was very slow, owing to the foul winds and strong head
currents. On the following day the boats of the _Flying Fish_, English
war-brig, boarded us, and remained on board nearly the whole of the
day, preparing letters for England, for which the _Jane_ was shortly to
sail.

On the 22d the brig herself bore down upon us. She was on a sharp
look-out for a crack slaver, which was expected daily on her first
trip, of which the commander had received private information. This
vessel I afterwards learned was captured by the _Flying Fish_, in spite
of the slaver’s boasted sailing qualities, and fighting captain, of
whom they much vaunted, but they generally fall short when opposed to
British (pirates, as the slave-dealers term them) ships-of-war.

On the 27th we anchored off Cape Coast Castle, and were soon recognised
by the officers of the fort and other gentlemen merchants of the
town, who are generally on the look-out for fresh arrivals. I was met
upon landing by the officers of the garrison, and Mr. Hutton, who
had always been a very kind friend to me. The officers invited me to
become an honorary member of their mess, though all but one were entire
strangers to me, having been changed during my absence from Cape Coast.
I returned, however, to my old quarters with Mr. Hutton, where every
attention and kindness were shown me during the remaining time I was
on the coast, during the last few weeks of which I suffered much from
fever and ague, accompanied with diarrhœa, which nearly terminated my
earthly career. During this latter period I was invited into the Castle
by the acting governor, Dr. Lilley, who was also Colonial Surgeon.

I was there under his immediate treatment, which was no doubt
beneficial, though I found that the use of strong medicines acted
powerfully upon my constitution, and therefore determined to be guided
entirely by the dictates of nature. My attacks were both violent and
frequent; every second day for some time, the interval gradually
increasing. As soon as I found the ague about to commence I lay down
and covered myself with as many clothes as I could obtain, and so soon
as the shivering ceased, of course violent fever succeeded, accompanied
with intolerable thirst. I always arranged to have a quantity of
water placed near my bedside; and generally drank half-a-pint every
five minutes. Thirteen or fourteen half-pints generally produced
copious perspiration, and the fever soon decreased. The only effect I
experienced from numerous repetitions of this treatment was weakness,
probably from excessive perspiration. I would never recommend bathing
in cold water while subject to attacks of fever and ague, as I found
by a series of experiments in my own person: it is very likely to
strengthen the fever and ague. I make no pretensions to advise
medically, but merely state facts from personal experience, considering
it a duty to my fellow-creatures, to state anything which might be
beneficial to mankind while in that pestilential climate.

I must not omit to mention the kindness of the Rev. T. B. Freeman, and
other members of the Wesleyan mission established on the coast, and
also of the Rev. William Hanson, the Colonial chaplain, as well as his
amiable lady. I owe a debt of gratitude to the whole of the merchants
on the coast, whether native or British, for I experienced the utmost
kindness from all of them; and although I have been bound to speak
unfavourably of the uncivilized African, it must be remembered that all
barbarous nations are similar as far as regards honesty and industry.
I trust, however, that no uncharitable conclusion may be drawn from
the plain statement of facts which fell under my own observation.
It is void of all prejudice, for my belief is that were Africans
educated, and their morals properly attended to, they would become an
example to countries who have for centuries enjoyed the advantages of
civilization. To many of them I must confess myself under considerable
obligations, which I shall ever remember with feelings of gratitude;
though I am convinced, that a partial education, by merely reading
the Scriptures, (unaccompanied by any school-books, such as books
of history or mechanics,) more particularly when the meaning is not
thoroughly explained to them in their own language, is of comparatively
little benefit.

Our missionaries have no doubt many difficulties to contend with:
first, because the English language is entirely new to the natives, so
that besides learning to pronounce the words, they have also to learn
the meaning of each word. Another drawback is, that when out of school
the greater part of the children are mixed up with the uneducated
population, and never use the English language except when in school.
They are also exposed to every vice in practice, so that in many
instances a partial education is only the means of enabling them to
become more perfect in villany.

I cannot help thinking that if missionary schools were situated in some
healthy situation at a little distance from the towns, and schools of
industry were established in conjunction with them, the most beneficial
results would follow. The boys intended to become mechanics should be
selected according to their abilities, and be allowed to make choice of
their trade. The school would in a short time support itself, and the
variety of occupations would relieve the monotony of instruction in one
branch of education alone.

At present, when the young men have obtained an imperfect education,
that is to say, a knowledge of reading and writing, with a slight
knowledge of figures, they consider themselves of too much importance
to accept a menial employment, and being unacquainted with any
trade, their first object is to seek to become agents or clerks
to our European merchants, the number of whom are comparatively
few, and employment consequently cannot be given to many. In many
instances these parties obtain goods on credit, either from the
resident merchants or from the American trading captains, and then
consider themselves to be great men, and that they must keep up an
establishment, which they frequently do, considerably beyond their
means. The result of this is, that in a short time they find themselves
involved in debt beyond any chance of redemption. The value of the
goods is then soon squandered away, and the would-be merchant is
compelled to retire into the bush, or to some other place of secrecy,
where the rest of his life is spent in swindling and villany.

Before concluding my Narrative I would make a few observations
upon the manners and customs of the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah
countries, with the amendments made in his own territories by the
present intelligent and generous King of Dahomey. The most important
of these is the abolition, in a great measure, of human sacrifices.
These are now only tolerated in the execution of culprits condemned
to death for offences of the gravest character. The King has entirely
abolished the power of his caboceers to make human sacrifices, and
only allows them to sacrifice the lower animals. Next I may mention
his entire revision of the criminal as well as petty laws of his
kingdom; and the establishment of a court of appeal at Abomey in cases
of dissatisfaction or injustice. The King has also much improved the
condition of the Dahoman army. The whole of the Mahee country is now
subject to Dahomey.

The Dahomans are generally a fine intelligent race of people, both
the male and female. Guinea worm, or elephantiasis, does not exist in
either the Dahoman, Mahee, or Fellatah countries. The average height
of the Dahoman males is about five feet nine inches, and they are
well proportioned. They are much more industrious than the natives of
Whydah, or other parts on the coast, and are good farmers, and take
much care in rearing stock. There are several Moors resident in Abomey,
but whether voluntarily or not, I was unable to learn; but should
suppose they were originally prisoners, from the fact of their refusing
information respecting their migration. In fact, individuals from all
the tribes of Central Africa may be found in Abomey.

The trade of Dahomey is chiefly in palm-oil. Ivory is seldom brought
to the coast, except when smuggled, owing to the heavy duty imposed
upon it. The manufactures are limited, cloth being the only article;
but they excel in that article. The kingdom of Dahomey is chiefly
level; the soil rich red loam; and, except in the immediate vicinity
of the capital, tolerably well watered. Gold is as abundant there as
in the Ashantee country, but, owing to the slave-trade, it is seldom
inquired after.

The kingdom of Dahomey originally extended no farther in a northern
direction than the river Zoa, or Lagos, between the seventh and eighth
degrees of north latitude. In marching in a north-easterly direction
from Abomey, the first of the Kong Mountains is situated in latitude
8° 20ʹ north, and extends in the same direction as far as 9° 30ʹ,
although mountains of less magnitude are met with of the table form, at
intervals, as far as 13° 6ʹ north.

The Mahee people are lighter in colour than the Dahomans, and are very
active and hardy, lively in their disposition, but said to be very
revengeful; although, as I was under the patronage of the King, I did
not observe any thing in their characters which manifested this. The
females are considerably smaller than those of Dahomey, and may be
called rather good-looking, and, like the Dahomans, are very chaste;
though, as in the former country, polygamy is tolerated to any extent.
They are all Pagans here, as well as in Dahomey. Though many Mohamedans
are to be found in the army of the latter, they are never interfered
with in their religious opinions.

Formerly the government of the kingdom of Dahomey was despotic, still
the country has a much more civilized appearance than the petty states
under republican governments, which are generally involved in disputes
and wars.

The Mahees appear to be a distinct people, independently of the
difference of colour. The general formation of their head differs
considerably from others. It is generally elongated from the ear
backwards, and the philoprogenitive organ is very prominent. The
frontal bone is seldom divided, and in many instances the upper part
of the skull, as I have previously stated, is without any division
whatever; but this is also the case in the Dahomans.

The chin of the Mahees is generally shorter than that of the Dahomans,
or people near the coast; their lips are not so thick; their teeth
are very good, and they take great pains in cleaning them, which is
generally the case on the whole of the west coast, where it is a
universal custom, when not otherwise employed, to brush the teeth with
the end of what they term a chew-stick, generally a piece of the branch
of the gwaba, about the length and thickness of a black-lead pencil.
They consider that chewing this kind of wood prevents thirst. Probably,
from the acid which it contains, it is superior to any other sort of
tooth-brush.

On many parts of the west coast they sharpen the two front teeth in
the upper jaw by filing, or grinding off the angles, so as to bring
them to a narrow point. The Mahee and Fellattah skulls I found lighter
and thinner than the Annagoos, or Dahomans, or those on the coast,
many of the latter being as thick as half an inch in the hinder part
of the skull, and of a spongy or porous nature. The nose of the Mahees
does not partake in the slightest degree of the negro, but strongly
resembles that of Europeans. They excel in their manufactures, which
are composed of cloth, and knitted night-caps, made exactly on the
same principle as in England. They are also clever in the manufacture
of iron, and are well acquainted with native dyes.

The natives, both of Dahomey and Mahee, are very temperate. They are
excellent cooks. Their dishes are generally soups, containing various
vegetables, amongst which is a gelatine pod of an oblong form, called
occro. This is considered very strengthening. I believe it might be
cultivated in Great Britain. It grows on a plant very much resembling
the stramonium. Their fermented drink is peto, a native beer, which
I have already described. They attain a greater age than in flat,
low countries; and are very industrious in comparison with many
neighbouring countries. The King of Dahomey enforces cultivation over
all his dominions.

The general composition of the Kong Mountains, occupied by the Mahees,
is granite, limestone, marble, and iron-stone. On the plains or valleys
I found, protruding above the surface, large masses of fused iron mixed
with round pebbles. Several fragments I broke off, which were nearly
as heavy as the pure ore. The outside of these masses had a glazed
appearance. From the north to the south side this chain of mountains
does not exceed forty-five or fifty miles. The principal animals
occupying the Kong Mountains I have already noticed.

The Fellattahs are a different race to either the Dahomans or Mahees.
They are a more warlike people than the Mahees; are light and active
in their movements, very courageous, but also revengeful and stubborn,
though I have been informed, that in a body they cannot fight a
losing battle. They are much intermixed with other tribes, and hold
great sway, occupying a very extensive territory, supposed to extend
from eight degrees west longitude to Bornou, and also a considerable
distance north and south. The real Fellattahs are much darker than the
Mahees, with high square frontal bone and well-proportioned head, in
general; hair, thick and woolly. They are more civilized and ingenious
than the Mahees or Dahomans, and are also good farmers.

Even the system of drainage has found its way to this remote region,
many of their indigo fields being well drained, as also those in the
Mahee country. Their trade is not very extensive, being chiefly
confined to their own locality, and is generally a system of barter,
though cowries and cloth are the general currency of the country. Their
mode of living is much the same as in the Mahee country but they use
less hogs’ flesh, and they eat both horses and dogs, and also several
species of serpents, frogs, and guanos.

I sailed from Cape Coast for England in February, 1846. Previous to my
going on board, I had many little presents sent me, both in the shape
of sea-stores and keepsakes, from the merchants and natives in their
employment, as well as from the resident Missionaries. I also received
some little necessaries from a party of Missionaries who visited Cape
Coast on their way to the Calabar, or Bonny River, in one of Mr.
Jamieson’s ships; I believe one of them was Mr. Waddel. Our vessel was
the _Albion_ of Guernsey, a small schooner of only one hundred and
fifty tons; in my precarious state of health, therefore, I was very
uncomfortable.

After leaving Cape Coast we called at Accra, and took on board some
ivory and gold, remaining at the above place one day and a night.
During this time I went on shore to visit some of my old friends,
amongst whom was Mr. Bannerman, whose kindness and hospitality are well
known, both to the naval and military officers who have ever visited
that settlement. I was also kindly received by the resident Wesleyan
Missionary.

Here I found an American Missionary and his wife, accompanied by the
widow of a brother Missionary, lately deceased. Poor woman! she was
apparently fast approaching to her long home. They were all in delicate
health, and were passing down the coast for a change of air, but were
obliged to leave the vessel.

During my stay I received extreme kindness and attention at the
mission-house. I also called at the former residence of Mr. Hanson,
a merchant lately deceased. His brother, the Chaplain of Cape Coast,
and Mr. R. Hanson from Whydah, were both there. From these gentlemen I
experienced great kindness, both now as well as on former occasions.
Here I again found my old charger, who had carried me during my
long journey in the interior. He was now the property of the Rev.
William Hanson, and had only arrived a few days before from Whydah.
It had probably been taken little care of, for the poor animal was
much reduced in flesh. It recognised my voice, and when I spoke, it
immediately neighed and pawed the ground, anxious to come to me.

Mr. Hanson, its owner, asked me to put a pair of fore-shoes on it,
remarking that it was the last act of kindness I should ever have an
opportunity of bestowing upon the noble little animal. This I readily
assented to: after which I proceeded on board, when we immediately set
sail for England; where, after a tedious and uncomfortable passage of
three months, we arrived. I had much improved in health during the
passage, though my accommodation was bad, for I was obliged to sleep
on deck during six weeks of the time, owing to the suffocating smell
from the heated corn, amongst which some of the palm-oil puncheons had
burst.


                       RANGE OF THE THERMOMETER,

         AS OBSERVED IN DAHOMEY FROM JUNE 11 TO JULY 7, 1845.

  +-------------------+-------------------------------------------+
  |   Rise and Fall   |                                           |
  | during Day, from  |                                           |
  | 6 A.M. to 6 P.M.  |                 REMARKS.                  |
  +-------+-----+-----+                                           |
  | Date. |Rise.|Fall.|                                           |
  +-------+-----+-----+-------------------------------------------+
  |       |Deg. |Deg. |                                           |
  |June 11| 80  | 76  |In house, against clay wall.               |
  |  ”  12| 82  | 78  |In house.                                  |
  |  ”  13| 81  | 75  |Ditto.                                     |
  |  ”  14| 82  | 76  |Ditto.                                     |
  |  ”  15| 80  | 77  |Ditto.                                     |
  |  ”  16| 81  | 76  |Ditto.                                     |
  |  ”  17| 80  | 74  |{Heavy tornado at 2 P.M.; fall suddenly    |
  |       |     |     |{  to 74°.                                 |
  |  ”  18| 82  | 76  |                                           |
  |  ”  19| 80  | 74  |                                           |
  |  ”  20| 81  | 74  |                                           |
  |  ”  21| 78  | 74  |{Unusually cold; natives feverish;         |
  |       |     |     |{  cold and rainy season.                  |
  |  ”  22| 78  | 74  |Cloudy.                                    |
  |  ”  23| 78  | 76  |Cloudy.                                    |
  |  ”  24| 82  | 75  |Morning cloudy.                            |
  |  ”  25| 77  | 75  |Cold and showery all day; tornado.         |
  |  ”  26| 81  | 74  |Cloudy in the evening; very dark night.    |
  |  ”  27| 82  | 73  |Wind; storm.                               |
  |  ”  28| 82  | 73  |Heavy shower.                              |
  |  ”  29| 79  | 74  |                                           |
  |  ”  30| 82  | 73  |Cold rainy night; wind west.               |
  | July 1| 82  | 74  |Very windy, and unusually steady.          |
  |  ”   2| 80  | 73  |Slight showers; wind west.                 |
  |  ”   3| 77  | 73  |Showers in the morning; day cloudy.        |
  |  ”   4| 82  | 73  |Heavy tornado; lightning and thunder heavy.|
  |       |     |     |{This day temperature changeable           |
  |  ”   5| 81  | 70  |{  during a tornado, the heaviest seen;    |
  |       |     |     |{  thermometer fell to 70°.                |
  |  ”   6| 80  | 73  |Unusually cold in the morning.             |
  |  ”   7| 82  |     |                                           |
  +-------+-----+-----+-------------------------------------------+


                               THE END.




                                LONDON:

                 R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL.



Transcriber’s Notes

Errors in punctuation have been fixed.

Page 86: “the the corn” changed to “the corn”

Page 121: “chiefly dependnet” changed to “chiefly dependent”

Page 128: “into the midde” changed to “into the middle”

Page 137: “aview of” changed to “a view of”

Page 227: “must have have been” changed to “must have been”

Page 268: “Wesleyan misonary” changed to “Wesleyan missionary”