Elastic and Non-Elastic
                              Narrow Fabrics

                            _By_ SAMUEL BROWN

                     and a Chapter on Narrow Fabrics
                        Made on Knitting Machines

                         _By_ WILLIAM DAVIS, M.A.

         This book originally appeared serially in TEXTILE WORLD
                 and has been republished in this form at
                   the urgent request of many readers.

                        BRAGDON, LORD & NAGLE CO.
                            TEXTILE PUBLISHERS
                       334 FOURTH AVENUE NEW YORK

                              Copyright 1923
                        BRAGDON, LORD & NAGLE CO.
                                 New York




Elastic and Non-Elastic Narrow Fabrics




CHAPTER I.

_Growth of Webbing Business—Attempts to Substitute Cut Products for
Individually Woven Webs Made on Gang Looms—Loom Setting to Reduce
Vibration—Capacity of Looms and Explanation of the Various Motions That
Are Employed_


When we think of the discovery of rubber vulcanization and the effect
it has had on world affairs our minds naturally turn to the big things,
such as the automobile industry with its millions of rubber tires in
constant use. These may crowd from our notice a thousand and one smaller
things of importance. It is difficult to fully realize how many comforts
and conveniences we derive from rubber and not the least among them is
the multiplicity of woven fabrics which are used both for comfort and
convenience in a variety of ways and for innumerable purposes. It is
not only in such things as garters and suspenders, with which our minds
may first associate elastic webs, that these fabrics are used, but they
find employment in a variety of other products, which are growing more
numerous all the time. Today there are in operation thousands of looms
and braiders, in which many millions of dollars are invested and in the
operation of which, together with complementary machinery, about ten
thousand people are employed.

It was about the year 1840 when the idea of weaving threads of elastic
in connection with other materials was first conceived. After long
experiments this was accomplished in the very simplest form of weaving.
New ideas were from time to time introduced, and new uses found for the
product, until now it covers a large variety of both plain and fancy
weaves, and the multiplicity of uses are so varied that few realize them
who are not closely associated with the business.


AMERICAN INDUSTRY STARTED ABOUT 1860

It was not until about the year 1860 that elastic web weaving was
introduced into this country, although for a number of years previous
England and Germany, and also France in a small way, had found here a
market for their product, particularly in cords, braids and shoe goring,
which at that particular time was fast growing in popularity. About
1860, a few looms which had been used, were brought over from England
and located at Easthampton, Mass., and the manufacture of shoe goring
commenced. The rubber thread required was for some time imported from
England. The business grew rapidly, and factories were established in
a number of cities, more particularly at Boston, Lowell and Brockton,
Mass., Bridgeport, Conn., and Camden, N. J. An unfortunate labor dispute
took place about the year 1890, which developed into a long-drawn out
strike, ultimately precipitating friction between the shoe trade and the
goring web manufacturers, which finally ended in a positive boycott of
this product from which the trade has never recovered. Most of the looms
which were up to this time devoted to shoe goring have been remodeled and
are now used in the making of other types of elastic fabrics. In passing,
it may be interesting to note that some of the looms originally brought
from England 60 years ago are still in operation and doing excellent work
along other lines.


ATTEMPTS TO USE WIDE LOOMS

Attempts have been made from time to time to weave elastics on wide
looms, the cloth being divided at intervals by open spaces in the warps
at the front reed, at either side of which spaces binding threads were
woven in. These narrow strips were spaced in the front reed according to
the different widths which might be required, and could easily be changed
to meet the varying requirements by redrawing a few threads, inasmuch
as the whole weave was uniform throughout the full width of the cloth.
Between these spaces, but at a point away from the weaving line, were
arranged stationary knives by which the cloth was cut into the requisite
widths while it was being woven, and as it gradually passed by the knife
edges. These knives were so arranged that they could be adjusted to new
positions when it became necessary to change the widths of the individual
strips.

While this method was more economical than weaving individual webs in
gang looms, the labor cost being much less, the narrow webs produced
having the cut selvages lacked the finished appearance which the
individually woven webs had. And sometimes the binding threads would
give way, so that the fabrics were not well received by the trade, and
ultimately the demand for them died out.

Attempts were made to supersede the individually woven strips in another
direction by the use of two finely woven pieces of cloth, one to form
the back, and the other to form the face of the goods, with an elastic
substance mechanically stretched out and inserted between the two. These
different parts were calendered together and afterward cut into strips
of the desired widths. This method was not without many advantages.
Strips of different widths were easily made without the costly method
of redrawing the warps in the looms. An unlimited choice of both plain
and fancy fabrics could be used, having if desired distinctly different
appearances and constructions for face and back, and this alone opened
up a wide range of possibilities. The finished cloth lent itself
admirably to fancy embossing and printing and to various other forms of
elaboration. But somehow the trade did not take to it, and this also
finally died out.

The trade ultimately settled down to the weaving of elastic goods of
all kinds, both plains and fancies, in gang looms, and the business has
steadily grown ever since along these lines.


STRAIGHT SHUTTLE AND CIRCULAR SHUTTLE LOOMS

The looms employed are very varied, inasmuch as the requirements cover
a wide range and new uses are constantly arising with new demands. The
simplest form of weaving is that employed on the making of webs such
as are mostly used for garters, and which are also used for many other
simple purposes in nearly every household. These webs are commonly known
as loom webs, lisles and cables. They are generally made on plain,
narrow, cam looms, some of which are capable of accommodating as many as
56 pieces or strips at one time.

There are two distinct types of loom employed, one of which is known as
the straight shuttle and the other the circular shuttle loom. In the
former type, the straight shuttle, in traveling across the different
spaces, takes up more room than the circular shuttle, and thus somewhat
curtails the number of pieces which can be operated in the loom, limiting
capacity of production, and relatively increasing the cost. Very few of
the straight shuttle looms accommodate more than 36 shuttles, according
to the width of the goods required. The circular shuttles travel over a
segment of a circle and cross over each other’s tracks in their movement
through the shed, as shown in Fig. 1. This permits the crowding of the
pieces of web closer together, so that many more can be accommodated in
the same loom space than when the straight shuttle is used. This type
sometimes runs as high as 56 shuttles to the loom.

[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Circular Shuttle Webbing Loom]

[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Rack and Pinion Movement for Actuating Shuttles]


PREVENT LOOM VIBRATION

These looms often are speeded as high as 180 picks per minute. To operate
at this speed with so many pieces of web and make satisfactory goods,
free from thick and thin places through irregularities of speed or
variable momentum in running, a very heavy type of loom is necessary.
They should be erected on solid foundations so as to eliminate all
possible vibration. A solid concrete floor into which timbers have been
properly set so that the feet of the looms may be securely anchored into
them is the ideal way, but where this is not practicable at least heavy
foundation timbers for anchoring the loom feet to should be arranged. The
frames of the looms should be heavy; also the main driving shaft, which
should have wide bearings so as to prolong the life of the shaft at the
wearing points and obviate loose play in the boxes.

The crankshafts must also be very heavy and there should be enough of
them so as to rigidly withstand the repeated beat of the lay without
liability to take on any loose motion, which would be fatal to the
production of perfect goods. Weight and strength here is very essential,
inasmuch as it is not practical to get a direct line from the shaft to
the lay on account of the harness movement, and they must be built to
drop below the harnesses which form makes them subject to heavy strain at
the beat of the lay. They should also be made adjustable, each arm having
a heavy left and right threaded insert, so that the length of the weaving
line may be changed to meet the varying requirements of different webs.
They should also be constructed so that any wear may be taken up.

The lay itself must necessarily be very heavy. It is generally
constructed of several thicknesses of timber of different kinds, so as
to avoid any possibility of warping and shrinkage. The shuttles used are
mostly made of applewood. While they must run smooth and be free from
the risk of slivers they must at the same time be very light so as to be
freely drawn across the multiple of web spaces. It will be easily seen
that the drawing of so many shuttles over a space of about three times
their length, at possibly 180 picks per minute, carrying and delivering
the necessary weft to the webs, each thread of weft being checked to a
certain extent by friction springs, requires great care and thought in
construction. Shuttle wood must be thoroughly seasoned by age or it will
not serve the purpose.

The shuttles themselves are very ingeniously constructed so as to
accommodate the greatest possible amount of filling, together with the
necessary space for springs to properly manipulate the tensions. Each
shuttle is bored through at either side so as to allow for the insertion
of a fine recoil spring, which is made fast at one end of the drilled
hole at the back of the shuttle. To the other end of the spring is
attached a small porcelain eye, through which is threaded the weft,
making it possible to govern and take up by the action of the spring the
loose filling which is thrown off as the shuttle passes and repasses
through the shed. These side recoil springs are not only useful for the
taking up of the loose filling but allow for a variety of threading up
methods, so as to assist in the governing of the tension of the weft at
one or both sides of the web, and thus afford a means of weaving the
goods level. They aid in correcting any tendency to long and short sided
goods, of which we will say more later.

At the back of the quill or shuttle spool is arranged another spring on
which is swivelled a porcelain device which presses against the quill,
and can be so regulated as to govern the tension. This spring is so
tempered that the most delicate adjustment of tension can be made.


RACK AND PINION MOVEMENT

The shuttles across the entire width of the loom are drawn to and fro by
what is known as the rack and pinion movement. (See Fig. 2). This method
has pretty generally superseded the old-time plan of rise and fall pegs.
The rack runs back and forth in a slot grooved in the top of the lay bed,
A, the entire length of the loom. To the rack is attached leather straps
G, or heavily woven fabric straps, with which the rack B is pulled to
and fro at each pick of the loom. The rack is of wood, having rounded
teeth-paced approximately one-third of an inch apart. Into the rack are
meshed pinions C, two to carry each shuttle E, the teeth of which are
correspondingly spaced. The rack is set into a wood carrier which is
about one inch deep and one inch wide, and the full length of the lay.
The pinions are made of either raw hide or paper fibre, and these pinions
again mesh into a series of racks D, grooved in on the under side of each
shuttle, and thus drive the shuttle to and fro across the web spaces J.

The constant travel of the driving rack running in the groove at the
top of the lay bed necessarily produces more or less wear at the bottom
of the rack. It therefore is advisable to place underneath this rack a
false bottom of wood of about ¼-inch thick, which after becoming worn by
constant use and contact with the ever-moving rack may be easily taken
out and replaced by a new one, thus keeping the rack and pinions and
shuttles at all times in proper mesh with each other.

The rack is drawn backwards and forwards by the before-mentioned straps,
which are passed over pulleys and are either fastened to the rack by
means of wood screws, or securely locked with a metal clamp designed for
this purpose. These straps are sometimes separated by a pair of cams
set on a shaft making one revolution to each two picks of the loom. The
power from these cams is first communicated to eccentrically-shaped wood
pulleys, moving backwards and forwards, which are so formed as to start
and stop the shuttles slowly, and to operate them at a higher rate of
speed during their passage through the middle of the shed. This movement
is necessary to avoid a too early entrance of the shuttle into the
weaving shed before the harness is properly settled, and also to soften
the hammering at the close of its travel so as to reduce the wear and
tear.

It might be well to note here also that this hammering is also softened
by the placing of a piece of soft rubber H at each end of the rack run,
so that the rack strikes this soft cushion each time it goes home. While
the cam method has been extensively used to produce the kind of movement
most desirable for the travel of the shuttle, it has its drawback in the
momentum produced, which it is often found difficult to control.

The Crompton & Knowles Loom Works have designed a shuttle motion which
effectively governs the desired speeds in the travel of the shuttles
while they are entering, passing through, and leaving the shed, by a
dwelling movement operated by a series of gear wheels and oscillating
slotted rocker. It is absolutely positive in action and does away with
the uncontrollable and erratic movement so often met with in the cam
drive.


MOVEMENT OF HARNESSES

Four-pick cams are all that are necessary to produce the plain webs
which are used for ordinary purposes. However, it is not the practice to
confine looms to the limitations of this capacity, but to put in either 8
or 12-pick cams. These, besides providing means to make the plain weave,
open up possibilities for a number of other weaves and combinations of
weaves, which add materially to the usefulness of the loom.

[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Direct Cam Movement]

[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Loom with Side Cam Method of Harness Control]

There are two distinct types of cam movements used in looms of this
character for the making of ordinary webs. One is known as the direct
cam drive, where the cams are fitted on a 4 to 1 shaft, as shown in
Fig. 3, which runs lengthwise of the loom and from which the power is
communicated to the harnesses through a series of levers A, rocking poles
B, levers C, and lifting wires to the harness D.

The other movement is known as the end-cam method, where a small shaft
is set at the end of the loom, running at right angles to the driving
shaft (See Fig. 4) from which it is driven by bevel gears. On this short
shaft are set the cams, usually 8 or 12 in number, which have a series of
grooves at their center so as to afford means of timing them in different
positions on a feather key which runs the full length of the shaft. These
cams operate what is known as the cam jacks, which may also be seen in
Fig. 4.

The jacks are hung at the middle and are moved backwards and forwards by
the cams, communicating movement to the various harnesses. The harnesses
are connected at both the top and bottom of the jacks. This connection at
both ends of the jacks makes it possible to run the looms at a very high
rate of speed, as there are no weights or springs to contend with, which
limits speed.

While the first described method of direct cams has some advantages
over the end cams, such looms are not nearly so economical to operate
as the end cams on account of the limited speed attainable. While the
harnesses are lifted by means of the cams they have to be pulled down by
weights or springs. The means of shed adjustment, however, enables the
attaining of a well graded shed. Furthermore, the cams themselves can be
so set on the shaft as to afford means of timing the movements of the
different harnesses so that excellent and easy shedding results may be
obtained. But the one great disadvantage is the limitation of the weaves
attainable, which limitation is largely overcome by the end-cam method.

When the direct cam movement is used, and where the goods being woven are
of such a character as to demand a very slow speed of the loom, it is
practicable to bring the harnesses down by weighting them with wide flat
weights of the requisite size. But where higher speed is required than is
advisable for weighted harnesses, springs are more desirable.

The simplest form of pulling do the harnesses is by the use of floor
blocks and direct springs. There is, however, a disadvantage in using the
direct spring on account of the pull increasing until the extreme lift
of the harness is reached, which necessarily increases materially the
power expended in operating same and makes an unnecessary strain. The
better way is to use what is known as spring jacks, which have an easier
pull than the direct spring inasmuch as the load eases off on the pull,
diminishing from the greatest pull at the start to the lightest pull at
the extreme lift on the lever, so that the load is uniformly distributed
all through the movement and less power is employed.




CHAPTER II.

_Looms Should Be Adapted to Make a Wide Variety of Goods—Take-Up and
Let-Off Motions—Making the Rubber Warps for Different Classes of
Web—Importance of Uniform Tension—Defects from Uneven Tension and Chafing
of Threads_


The greatest care is necessary in planning out the details of the
harness. On account of the great length it becomes necessary that
everything possible be done to avoid any chance of warping or sagging,
for the least irregularity which may be developed will of course
interfere with the evenness of the shed. The harness frames must be made
of the very best stock obtainable, thoroughly seasoned, and absolutely
straight grained. Each frame must be supported at regular and frequent
intervals by stays or supports mortised in the runners. These stays
are slotted at top and bottom to receive the heddle bars and keep
them accurately in line, and thus prevent them from catching on the
neighboring harness during the operation of the shedding process.

It is necessary also that the top and bottom heddle bars be accurately
spaced so as to allow proper freedom for the heddles to ride easily
on the bars, and thus avoid any binding of heddles which would have a
tendency to crowd the warp stock together and prevent clearance of the
shed. Steel heddles are preferable to ones that bend and twist more or
less and get out of alignment. They are made from tempered steel which is
very flexible and they have round cornerless eyes that cannot possibly
catch or chafe the warp threads. They adjust themselves automatically
to the frame and cannot twist or bend while at work, and are made to
accommodate themselves to every conceivable kind of goods.


INSTALL LOOMS FOR WIDE RANGE

In installing looms for narrow elastic fabrics it is advisable to make
ample provision for creeling the warps necessary for the different
fabrics which may from time to time be required. In the manufacture
of the light single cloth garter webs, not more than two warps to the
piece are required, a face warp and a gut warp, and the temptation to
save a little in the initial cost possibly may suggest a limitation of
creel spaces to immediate requirements. Added expense may seem for the
time being an unnecessary burden. But very soon there may arise a call
for other goods which cannot be made within the limitations of the two
bank creel; therefore changes become necessary which are generally much
heavier than first cost would have been.

Nothing less than a five bank creel should be installed. Many times the
availability of six banks has solved knotty problems of warp division to
care for the various weaves and materials employed in some constructions.
If the entire capacity of the larger creel is not required when first
starting it will not be necessary to clothe all of it with levers,
buttons, etc., which may be procured later. But by all means ample
provision should be made for the full frame work and supporting rods for
same.


TAKE-UP MOTION

Another important consideration is to make proper provision for a
reliable take-up motion, so that the goods may be taken away from the
reed while weaving without any liability to variableness. This liability
was present in many of the earlier looms and exists in some of the
mills today. The old-time fine ratchet gear, even when provided with
a number of pawls, is always liable to erratic picking, which alone
will ruin an otherwise perfect piece of goods and materially change
the cost of manufacturing. A slight irregularity of picking may not be
discernible in non-elastic goods, which will be satisfactory so long as
the variableness is not easily seen and a reasonable average of picks per
inch is maintained. But in elastic goods, where the contraction takes
place after they leave the press rolls, every irregularity is revealed
and intensified so there is no room to take chances. The only safe way is
to employ picking gears making one tooth to each pick of the loom, and
then to change the gears when different picking becomes necessary.

In many of the existing looms there has been no adequate provision
made for the weaver to let the web back to the reed mechanically when
a joining becomes necessary through the breaking of the filling while
weaving, or where a quill may have run off unnoticed. It is almost
impossible to make a joining satisfactorily without proper mechanism
being provided for this purpose. In some of the slow running looms
provision is made for this by the operation of each set of rolls
independently (see Fig. 1), by means of the ratchet gear and pawl A and
worm motion B. This plan has the one disadvantage of taking up too much
space between the individual pieces. Where the fabric woven is say four
or five inches wide, and the space will admit, it is all that can be
desired, and the individually weighted rollers C associated with the
motion are admirably adapted to variable pressure.

For the very narrow elastic fabrics, which require considerable roller
pressure to hold the web snug and firm while weaving, and where it is
necessary to make very accurate joinings after a break has occurred,
a better movement is one in which the web roll is placed on the main
take-up shaft in the form of a sleeve. It is carried around by the shaft
as it turns while the goods are being woven, but can be released and
turned both backwards and forwards by a conveniently placed hand wheel,
which operates a series of differential gears. This movement is entirely
independent of the movement of the main take-up shaft drive.


TENSION ON RUBBER WARP

Too much importance cannot be attached to properly controlling the
tension of the rubber warp. On its uniformity depends not only the
quality, but also the cost of the web. The greater the weight of slack
rubber woven into the web the more costly it becomes and the poorer
the quality. A very accurate sense of touch is required in testing the
tension of the rubber threads as they are being delivered into the goods.

The rubber warp requires the highest possible tension before breaking or
chafing of the thread takes place. Each rubber thread should be under
this high tension so that when the goods come through the press roll the
desired contraction will take place uniformly, and a flat piece of web
will be produced that will have plenty of life.

It must always be remembered that the individual threads of rubber which
constitute a rubber warp will act as a series of small springs, working
in unison with each other. Each one should have equal power to contract
the fabric at its own particular part. If any one of these strands or
springs is chafed and weakened, it lessens the contracting power, and
the result is that the weakened or less contracted part is of relatively
greater length than the parts where the rubber threads have retained
their full power.

Moreover, the appearance of the goods will be spoiled by the chafed
particles of rubber pricking through the face, particularly on the white
and lighter colored goods. Before such webs can be marketed they must be
subjected to a buffing operation to remove these dirty particles, which
is accomplished by passing them over a highly speeded, cloth covered
roller, which will remove the loose particles by friction and high
velocity. But this operation adds to the cost.

A high and uniform tension of the rubber warp is so important that most
manufacturers keep men specially employed in the testing of the threads,
instead of leaving this matter to the weavers. These testers acquire
such a keen sense of touch that they can obtain very economical and
satisfactory results. Talc or soapstone is freely used as a lubricant to
reduce the risk of chafing and breaking of the rubber threads. The warps
are arranged so as to allow the threads to pass through a bed of plush,
loaded with talc, which adheres to the rubber threads and makes them work
very smoothly. This is especially important in damp weather, which is the
worst condition for the weaving of elastic goods. At times factories have
stopped operations when the weather was especially humid.


LET-OFF MOTION

[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Individual Take-Up Motion for Wide Space Looms]

[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Individual Rubber Warp Let-Off Motion]

When we remember that the front reed will pass by the rubber threads
possibly six or seven hundred times from their entrance into the shed
to their reaching the leaving line, it is not to be wondered at that
chafing is liable to take place. With all this liability of spoiling
goods it becomes readily apparent that any device employed to regulate
such an important feature as the tension of the rubber warps must be very
sensitive and dependable.

On looms making wide goods, and where space will allow, regulation is
accomplished by a worm and gear movement as shown in Fig. 2. The iron
rubber beam is threaded on to a square shaft A, at one end of which a
gear wheel B is fastened. In this gear is meshed the worm C, which is
operated by a heavy linen cord D passed twice around a pulley E. The cord
derives its movement from a rocking shaft F, on which there is fastened a
screw extension G, by which adjustment can be made so as to deliver very
accurately any amount from the rubber beam.

With this kind of movement, and in order to feed the thread uniformly
into the web, it becomes necessary to use mechanically made warps where
the same uniformity has been maintained in putting the warps on the
beams. The warps so made must come from the thread manufacturer in
individual warps, which are done up in chain form, each warp containing
the requisite number of threads.


MAKING RUBBER WARPS

The machine used for making the warps, shown at Fig. 3, is mounted on an
iron frame A, which carries the power driven warp beam B. Behind this is
an open top expansion reed C, the dents of which are regulated to open,
coarse or fine by an internal spring which is regulated by a hand wheel.
This reed also has a screw sidewise adjustment for centering. Behind the
reed C are fixed two pairs of nip rolls, D and E, and an open roller
F, which is followed by a belt-driven beater roll G, used to beat the
threads out straight as they leave the chain.

The rubber warp is first laid on a cloth on the floor, under the beater
roll. The end is then passed over the beater roll G, over the open roll
F, through the two pairs of nip rolls D and E, over the expansion reed C,
and then looped to a leader on the rubber beam, where the knot is put in
a counter-sink on the beam barrel, so as not to interfere with the lay
of the warp. The section of the warp between the two pairs of nip rolls
is brought down in loop form, shown at H, and the nip rolls are then
closed while the warp is in this position. The two sets of nip rolls are
speeded alike and the rubber is always kept slack between the gripping
points, so that all threads passing through the last set of nip rolls,
D, are perfectly gauged in length and tension when passing through the
reed C and on to the beam B. The threads of rubber are under considerable
tension, inasmuch as the beam B is driven faster than the nip rolls D and
E.


FRICTION LET-OFF

Where there is limited loom space, and where a small number of threads
are employed, as in the narrower garter fabrics, it is not as practical
to have the warps made mechanically, and for this reason they are not
likely to be put on the beams with as much uniformity of tension. In
such cases it becomes necessary to have some automatic device that will
correct any irregularities and maintain a uniform delivery throughout.
The device for doing this is shown at Fig. 4.

The warp carrier A is fastened to the back rail, which carries the warp,
over which is passed the friction cloth G which is hung from a rod D.
The friction cloth is fastened at the bottom to the graduated warp lever
E, which is bolted to the bottom rail H, as shown. The rubber threads
constituting the warp pass in a direct line to the harness C, and then
to the breast beam B. The lever E, and the weights F, allow for proper
adjustment of the friction cloth so as to keep the lever level as the
warp beam empties.

[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Rubber Warping Machine]

In making the rubber warps for narrow fabrics such as garters and
suspenders, where the last described method of warp delivery takes place,
it is customary to work from an entire sheet of rubber, splitting it up
into the required sections or strips of the various sizes called for in
the warps. This splitting and warping process must be done in a long room
where the warp can be stretched out to its full length, if possible,
after it is unchained. These warps are usually about 60 yards long. The
“head” of the sheet, or the part where the cutting knife has not gone
through, is spread out flat on a series of hooks at the beaming machine
and the tail end is fixed securely on a strong hook at the other end of
the room.

The requisite number of threads for the several warps which are to be
beamed are counted off and each different section is fastened to a beam.
The end knot is laid snugly in the counter-sink made in the beam barrel
for this purpose. A wide reed is used, covering the number of beams
operated in the machine, which is usually about four, and the threads are
reeded over spaces opposite the different beams. This reed can be moved
sidewise across the face of the beams and each warp properly centered so
as to keep the warp level. The operator then starts the beaming machine,
which may be operated either by hand or power, and the warps are wound
up. At the same time a helper walks towards the beamer carrying the tail
end of the warps and keeping the tension as nearly uniform as possible.
When the warps are all wound on the several beams, a lease is taken
in each of them in the ordinary manner, and each separate section is
securely fastened.

[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Automatic Friction Let-Off for Rubber Warps]

Should floor space be limited, a horizontal reel is used, which is about
six feet long and about five feet in diameter. On this the sheet of
rubber is wound after being split in proper sections at the head end and
divided by a coarse reed, so as to be able to distribute the different
sections all across the reel. Each section can then be taken off the reel
as required for the beams. The tension of the threads is governed by a
weighted leather strap passed over the face of the reel.




CHAPTER III.

_Head Motion Looms and Dobbies for Making Fancy Effects—Tying Up
Harness—Construction of Loom Webs, Lisle Webs, French Web or Railroad
Weave and Cable Webs—Making Good Selvages and Preventing Long-Sided
Effect_


So far we have mentioned only plain looms, or those limited to the
capacity of eight or twelve pick cams. Before we consider any of the
varied constructions relating to elastic webs it will be well to speak
of fancy looms. There are different types, adapted to a wide range of
fancy effects, but the fancy loom most generally used is what is known as
the chain head, an example of which is shown at Fig. 1. Such looms are
usually of 18 and 24 harness capacity, and are operated by a figure chain
of the length required to produce the desired figure. Chains are made up
of a series of bars, one bar operating with each pick of the loom and
having on it space for a roller or sinker for each harness to be operated.

Wherever a roller is placed on the bar, the corresponding harness will be
raised, and wherever a sinker is used, the corresponding harness will be
dropped. A series of rollers following each other will hold the harness
up, and likewise a series of sinkers following each other will keep the
harness down, thus maintaining at all times an open shed.


THE SHEDDING OPERATION

The shedding operation is very simple. In the fancy head there are two
cylinders, each of which has gear teeth running the entire length. These
cylinders operate continuously in opposite directions. The teeth of the
cylinders do not go around the entire circumference as will be noticed on
the upper cylinder shown in Fig. 1, but there is a blank space provided
so as to allow for the engaging of the gear wheels brought into position
at the right time as the cylinders revolve.

Between the two cylinders are vibrator gears, one for each harness, and
to these gears are attached arms which are connected with the different
harnesses. These vibrator gears can be thrown into position by the chain
rollers or sinkers, so as to come in contact with the teeth of either the
upper or lower cylinder, and are so timed that they take their position
at the moment when the blank part of the cylinder presents itself. A
vibrator gear engaging the upper cylinder is turned so as to lift the
harness connected with it, while a vibrator gear engaging the lower
cylinder drops that particular harness. The harnesses stay in their
relative positions until the chain calls for another change.

Both cylinders and engaging gears are made of hard chilled steel, so that
wear and tear by hammering at the time of engagement are reduced to a
minimum. To further soften the engagement, the speed of the cylinder is
controlled by elliptical driving gears, which reduce the speed of travel
just at the moment when the engagement takes place.

The timing of the various movements of the head is so well controlled
that there is little risk of any part failing to maintain proper
relationship with the other parts. But in the event of any accident or
breakage occurring which interferes with the free motion of the head,
such strain is taken care of by a soft pointed set screw on the head
driving shaft, which shears off and so prevents further serious damage.

The capacity of the head is such that by careful arrangement of figures
and repeats it is quite possible to make several simple designs to run
side by side in the same harnesses and this is often done. Of this we may
write more later.

[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Fancy Loom for Weaving Narrow Fabrics]

[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Double Index Dobby]

[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Overshot Dobby]


THE OVERHEAD DOBBY

A popular machine for light fancy warp figures is the overhead dobby
shown at Fig. 2, which may be used as auxiliary either to the plain
cam loom or the fancy head loom. It is placed on a well braced, rigid
frame and built as high as convenient so as to reduce the angle of the
harness strings. It is driven directly from a two to one shaft, which
may be either underneath the loom or at the end, and is connected with a
threaded adjustable rod, which is attached to a slotted lever and can be
adjusted to govern the depth of the dobby shed.

It is customary to put two of these dobby machines over each loom, but
having only one main drive the two machines are coupled together and
work in unison. Such an arrangement has the double advantage of a less
acute angle at the harness tie-up, and also affords facilities for a
distinctly different pattern on either half of the loom. It minimizes
the risk of the harness threads cutting into the compart boards, and
prolongs relatively the life of the dobby harness. Furthermore it allows
for a straight tie-up on either machine so that there is no limitation
to the length or character of the design, as is often the case where two
patterns are run together on the same machine, or where point tie-ups are
used, as would very likely be necessary if only one machine was installed
to cover different designs on both halves of the loom. As we have
previously stated it is not advisable to limit capacity for the saving of
a few dollars in the initial cost.


OVERSHOT DOBBY

Another type of loom employed in the making of fancy goods is what
is known as the overshot loom. It is used for the introduction of a
silk weft figure effect, and is probably the most pronounced form of
elaboration introduced. It differs from the old rise and fall method in
the economy of operation. The overshot continues to weave the body of the
goods right along while the auxiliary shuttle is putting the silk figure
in at the same time. Not only is it economical in the respect of greater
yardage, but the method employed in binding the figure limits the use of
silk to the actual figure displayed, and does not carry the silk, which
is the most expensive material in the fabric, to the extreme selvage at
every pick, as is the case where the rise and fall method is employed.

In the overshot system a specially designed dobby, shown at Fig. 3, is
used for operating the lightly weighted threads of the binder warps. Two
pairs of knives are employed, one of each pair operating far enough to
raise the threads used in the binder warp to the level of the top main
shed, while the other one of each pair carries the threads which are used
for figure purposes to a higher level, so that the overshot shuttle may
pass under them. This occurs every alternate pick of the loom, the body
shuttle making two picks while the upper or overshot shuttle makes only
one.

In levelling the harness, setting or timing of the loom, and making the
shed for overshot work, the plans followed are identically the same as
in ordinary single shuttle work, as the upper shuttle and upper shed are
distinctly auxiliary and subordinate to the main shed. The binder warp,
being necessarily but lightly weighted in its relationship to the upper
and lower cloths it is binding together, allows for the figure threads
to be strained out of their normal position, so that the upper shuttle
may pass under them. In order to conform to this strained position of the
binder figure threads, the upper shuttle must be acutely pitched downward
at the nose so as to get a good clearance, and thus avoid any binding
in its passages through the shed. This peculiar downward pitch of the
shuttle is very important and cannot be over emphasized. It is shown in
Fig. 4.

The overshot dobby is so constructed that a different set of draw knives
operate on each alternate pick of the loom, one on the binder lift and
the other on the rubber lift. This not only allows for a silk figure made
with the shuttle but affords facilities for the introduction of a warp
figure also, a combination which can often be made very effective, as
shown in Fig. 5.

[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Showing Auxiliary Shed and Pitched Shuttle as Used
in Overshot Work]


IMPORTANCE OF DOBBY HARNESS

Too much importance cannot be attached to the rigging of the dobby
harness. A 30/9 ply linen cord is desirable and a lingo of about 16 to
the pound. After deciding on the character of the tie-up required, and
when the harness has been threaded in the compart boards, the lingoes
should be looped on the strings, and then left to stand and settle for
a couple of days before leveling. It is better still to run the dobby
machine for a few hours, lifting all the harness and then dropping them,
so as to settle the strings and take out any kinks or loose places which
are bound to exist in a highly cabled linen cord of this character.

The labor required in the tying up and leveling of a string harness
suggests the advisability of great care in determining the tie-up to be
used, so that changes of pattern can be made easily without involving
changes in the tie-up. In order to prolong the life of the harness, in
the adjustment of which so much time and care must necessarily be spent,
it is advisable to apply a dressing of boiled linseed oil, which should
be thoroughly worked into the strings by running the harness for several
hours, using one and one change cards. This should be followed by a
dusting of talc or soapstone, which will add much to the smoothness of
the finish.

To reduce the friction of the strings which operate in the several
outside compart boards, where the strain and wear are particularly acute,
and also to prevent the strings from cutting into the boards themselves,
it is good practice to fix strips of ground glass between the different
rows of strings, just above the compart boards. These strips of glass may
be threaded through drilled holes in the compart board frame.


CONSTRUCTION OF SIMPLE WEBS

Before enlarging further on details of fancy looms, it will be well to
retrace our steps and consider the construction of some of the simpler
forms of web, such as are made on what we have described as plain looms.
The webs best known, perhaps, are those such as are used for men’s
ordinary garter wear, and for cutting up to retail in the regular dry
goods and notions trade. They vary from one-quarter to 2 inches in
width. There are several distinct classes of these goods, the best known
of which are the loom webs, the lisles and the cables, all of which are
of single cloth construction, in which the filling is the main feature.
There are generally two cotton warps used in such goods, one of which
is commonly called the binder and weaves two up and two down, while the
other is called the gut or filler, and works with the rubber warp, one up
and one down. The selvages of these webs are made with the filling, which
passes around a wire at each pick, the wire remaining stationary while
the web is taken away from it in the process of weaving. An illustration
of a loom web of this character is shown at Fig. 6. The draft and cam
arrangement are shown at Fig. 6A.

[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Combination Warp and Shuttle Figure Produced on
Overshot Dobby.]

[Illustration: Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Fig. 10]

It is customary in some factories to use only one harness to carry both
rubber and gut, inasmuch as the weaving of the two are the same and they
both go in the same cavity or pocket of the web. Where such a method is
employed there is always a tendency for the gut threads to get out of
their proper places, and to fall together in pairs at irregular points,
which will produce an objectionable “rowey” appearance in the goods. This
will be noticed more particularly in white and light colored webs.

[Illustration: Fig. 6A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Three-Quarter Inch
Loom Web]

[Illustration: Fig. 7A.—Harness Draft and Weave for One-Half Inch Lisle
Web]

[Illustration: Fig. 8A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Three-Quarter Inch
French Web]

[Illustration: Fig. 9A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Three-Quarter Inch
Cable Web]

In the harness draft shown, it will be seen that one harness is employed
for the rubber and one for the gut. It is thus possible to shed the gut
harness so as to open more than the rubber, having it travel both higher
and lower than the rubber harness at each alternate pick of the loom. By
this movement the gut threads will be kept in the desired position, and
at the same relative side of the rubber threads in each of the several
pockets designed to carry them both. If, from any unusual cause, any of
the gut threads get away from their proper places it is easy by this
arrangement of separation to lift the gut harness at any time, insert
a thread of cotton between the gut and rubber threads, and put them in
their proper places when commencing to weave again.

The weave employed in the making of webs of this kind, although of a very
simple character, involves a condition which does not favor a straight
well woven fabric unless great care is taken to offset troublesome
tendencies. The nature of the weave is such that at one pick the binder
harness changes, while on the next pick it remains open and does not
change, the rubber and gut harness changing only. The result of this
movement is such that one shed clears for the reception of the filling
much better than the other, so that at one side of the web the filling
will hug the edge wire, shown at W in Fig. 6A, while at the other side of
the web the failure to get a good clearance prevents the filling getting
so snugly around the wire. Therefore, as the web draws away from the edge
wire in the process of weaving, the tendency is for one selvage rubber
cavity to be small, while the other is large, which means that at the
open side there is a freedom for contraction of the edge rubber which is
not present at the other side, and a long-sided uneven web is the result.


MAKING A GOOD SELVAGE

To counteract this it is essential that great care should be taken to
get a good clearance of the shed. The shed should be timed as early as
possible, so as to give every particle of fibre on the warp a good chance
to separate and clear itself. When space permits, the front reed should
be set slightly over on one side of the reed space, so as to create a
little longer pull on the filling as it draws from the shuttle on the
open side, and correspondingly eases up the draw of the filling on the
other side. The warp stock used, however, may be of such a character that
the loose fibre on it makes even these precautions ineffective altogether
to counteract the trouble, and it may then become advisable to put in
a fine edge wire on the open side of the web to offset the creeping
tendency of the selvage rubber thread when contraction takes place after
the web comes through the press rolls.

The feature which is aimed at, and which is most desirable in the
appearance of such goods, is a clean cut prominent rib at the rubber
line, and the avoidance of a flat paper-like look and feel of the web
generally. The prominence of the rib varies, of course, according to the
size of the rubber thread used, and the binder warp employed in dividing
the same, but even the very best of conditions may be spoiled if proper
care is not taken to get all the prominence of rib possible. Use as fine
a binder warp as is practicable, compensating for any loss of weight or
excess of contraction by using a heavier gut, which again of itself helps
to fill in the rubber cavity and thereby lends additional prominence to
the rib. All the weight possible should be carried on the binder warp
up to a point of safety, and care should be taken to get a very easy,
uniform delivery of the warp from the beam so as to avoid any erratic
jerky movement of the warp lever.

The warp beams which are used on this delicate type of work should
be well balanced and true to center, and the flanges free from any
irregularity which would in any way interfere with the easy and uniform
operation of the warp lever.

The gut, which weaves in with the rubber thread, is used for the two-fold
purpose of giving additional body to the fabric and of regulating in a
measure the length of stretch in the goods. The more gut there is used,
the less becomes the power of contraction of the rubber warp, and the
shorter the stretch produced.

Aside from the fineness and body of the goods, the element of stretch
largely governs the market value of the fabric, so that good judgment and
great care must be exercised in the assembling of the different sizes of
yarns used. Weft, binder and gut all play their part in the governing
of the stretch, as also does the number of picks put in the goods. Any
excess of weight on the binder warp also materially reduces the stretch.
In fact, any one of these features, wrongly adjusted, may result in the
difference between the profit and loss.

In making the selvage of these goods a hard steel wire is used, around
which the filling passes at each pick. This wire, shown at W in Fig.
6A, is highly tempered piano wire, of the very best quality obtainable.
Sharpened to a needle point at one end, with a loop turned at the other
end, it is fastened at the back of the loom by a cord which has an
adjustable slip knot, so as to be able easily and quickly to regulate
the length of wire running in the web. It is then passed through a
harness heddle eye on the rubber or gut shaft, and through a reed space
next outside the selvage rubber thread. The constant wear of this wire
on the reed dent makes it necessary to have this dent of hardened steel
so as to withstand the constant wear of the wire, which is always being
crowded against the dent by the nipping action of the filling as it draws
against the wire in the process of weaving, and the repeated beat at the
same place in the dent at the weaving line. In any event, after a short
time the dents in the reed will be cut so that it becomes necessary to
frequently replace them with new ones, and for this reason it should be
so arranged that they can be easily and quickly removed from and replaced
in the reeds.


THE LISLE WEB

The lisle web, being perfectly plain, is similar in general character to
the loom web, except that it is made with high grade combed and gassed
yarns for the filling in place of cheaper stock used on the loom webs,
and is woven with four threads for the binder warp between each strand
of rubber, instead of two as in the loom web. The harness draft of the
one-half inch lisle web shown at Fig. 7, together with the weave, is
shown at Fig. 7A. The construction is as follows: Binder, 36 ends 80/2;
gut, 8 ends 40/2; rubber, 10 ends 32s; reed, 21 dent; picks, 78 per inch;
stretch, 75 per cent.

It will be seen that all the binder threads operate two up and two down,
but change at each pick in rotation, making the repeat every four picks
of the loom. In a weave of this character the changes of the harness are
distributed uniformly at each pick, thus making it much easier to get
uniform conditions on each selvage. It differs from the loom web in this
respect, where the alternating light and heavy pick has to be contended
with.

Like the loom webs, prominence of the rib over the rubber thread is the
main feature aimed at in the general appearance of the fabrics, and
therefore everything possible should be done which will emphasize this.
The binder warp must be of fine yarns, and the warp must be weighted so
as to cut the warp line down sharp and clear up to a point of safety,
being careful at the same time not to go to excess so as to narrow
in the goods or cause undue chafing of the rubber warp. The yarn most
generally used for filling is 26-2 comber and gassed high grade stock,
of about 15 turns per inch. It should be a well-rounded lofty yarn so
as to obtain all the covering property possible. It should be spun with
the utmost uniformity, as the slightest irregularity in the yarn will be
noticeable in the goods.

The dyeing and bleaching of the yarn used for filling is also of the
greatest importance. It is not an unusual occurrence to find otherwise
perfect goods made unmarketable as first class by the use of a filling
yarn which has not been properly processed. This faulty condition of
the yarn may be caused in a variety of ways; such as an irregular boil,
poor circulation of liquor in the kier, irregular drying, etc. Even when
the color appears to be perfect, poor processing will often prevent the
smooth running of the yarn from the shuttle, causing it to drag and
thus create irregular and crooked selvages which result in the repeated
breaking of the selvage rubber threads and ruin the goods.

The many difficulties of this character which were encountered when skein
yarn was more generally used for filling led to the introduction and
almost general use of warp yarns for filling purposes, inasmuch as the
method of processing the warp yarns gives results which are not nearly
so variable. Furthermore the long unbroken runs of thread obtainable by
quilling avoid the many knots which are present when using skein yarn.
Knots are unsightly and objectionable when appearing on the face of the
goods.

Chafed and broken edge rubber threads, however, are not always the result
of the conditions named, by any means, but may be caused by a variety of
other things. Not infrequently the edge wire may be weaving too long in
the web so as not to draw out freely. Sometimes it may be a bent wire
that causes the trouble, or it may be the rubber rolling around the wire.
Many times defects are caused by the edge wire having cut into the dent,
so that it has a file-like effect as the rubber thread passes by in
weaving. All these things require looking into, and when trouble comes
the cause should be found and not guessed at.


FRENCH WEB OR RAILROAD WEAVE

Another plain web which has attained considerable popularity, and which
is a kind of intermediate grade between the loom web and the lisle, is
what is known as the French web or railroad weave, shown at Fig. 8. In
almost all respects the general treatment of this web is the same as
already described, and it differs only in the draft, which is shown at
Fig. 8A. It allows for the use of a somewhat finer yarn than is generally
employed in the loom web, and the draft changes at every two cords, which
gives it a peculiar “rowey” appearance from which it derives the name of
railroad weave.

There is one feature associated with all these plain webs which it might
be well to speak of. The high tension at which it is necessary to work
the rubber warp, together with the light weight required on the cotton
warp and the crowding together of the picking, creates a tendency for
the goods to rebound at the front reed, accompanied by a backward and
forward sliding movement when passing over the rod at the breast beam.
This movement is liable to polish the goods, which is an objectionable
feature. To counteract this it is advisable to let the web pass over
a small, felt-covered wood tube, which revolves and responds to the
movement of the bounding web. In this way there is no friction to glaze
or polish the web and interfere with the bloom of the yarn. The same
polish will occur as the goods pass through the press rolls, unless they
are felt covered.


CABLE WEB

The most popular web now made up into men’s garters is what is known
as the cable web, shown at Fig. 9. With the pronounced prominence of
the two-dent rib, which gives it a character peculiarly different
from the plain web, it is well adapted to this class of goods. Simple
in appearance, it nevertheless requires special care to manufacture,
particularly when we remember that it is not unusual to be required to
make a finished stretch of not less than 100 per cent. The harness draft
and weave are shown at Fig. 9A. The construction is as follows: Binder,
34 ends 80/2; Gut, 24 ends 20/2; Rubber, 18 ends 28s; Reed, 20 dent;
Picks, 80 per inch; Stretch, 100 per cent.

The filling, floating across the wide spaces under which lie the rubber
threads in pairs, is very easily thrown out of place, the result of which
may be an unsightly seersucker appearance, as shown in Fig. 10, which the
process of finishing aggravates rather than corrects.

Trouble may manifest itself by the filling over the ribs opening up and
allowing the gut threads to prick through. To prevent this objectionable
feature it is necessary to use a good quality of moderately soft yarn
for the gut, not necessarily of high grade stock, but a yarn which is
uniformly spun and not at all hard or wiry. As these goods are being
woven and on full stretch, the gut threads, of course, are perfectly
straight and accurate in line, but when contraction takes place, to
probably one-half the former length, these heavy threads, which form
probably about 25 per cent. of the weight of the entire web, should bend
or fold uniformly and dispose of themselves in such a manner as not to
appear in any way on the face of the web, snugly housed away in the
several pockets or cavities. If the yarn composing these gut threads is
spotty or irregularly spun, this uniformity of fold inside the pockets
will be broken up and the appearance of the face of the goods is likely
to be marred by unsightly specks of cotton pricking through, which can be
both seen and felt.




CHAPTER IV.

_Elaboration of Honeycomb Effects by Parti-Dyed and Printed
Fillings—Bandage and Surgical Webs Made with Plain and Covered
Rubber—Frill Web Woven on Cam Looms—Double Cloths—Importance of Securing
Balance Between Back and Face of Goods_


Among the group of single cloth webs confined to the capacity of plain
looms, is what is commonly known as the honeycomb, shown at Fig. 1 and
Fig. 1A. This is generally made with silk, wood silk, or schappe filling.
The smooth filling floating over two cords gives the web a smooth feel,
there being no rib effect noticeable whatever, making it well adapted
for a fine trade. The warp lines are almost entirely hidden by the
filling, so that it is not practicable to introduce any sharp stripe
fancy effects, which can be done both in the plain web and the cable. The
honeycomb is thus confined to plain solid colors or such elaboration as
can be obtained from the filling.

Fancy effects are often secured by dyeing skein yarn in two or more
colors. Such yarns when woven in the goods produce alternating effects
at regular distances in different colors, such distances being governed
by the length of the dips and the width of the goods. The effects which
can be produced are quite varied. The simplest way of accomplishing this
is to use the regular 54-inch skein, having white or some light shade as
a base, and then dyeing a given portion of the skein another color. This
process is carried out by hanging the skeins on sticks placed in a rack
at the required distance above the color liquor, and then lowering them
into the vat and dyeing the immersed part in the usual manner.

Where cotton is used for the filling and more elaborate effects are
desired, long reeled skeins are used, sometimes 108 or 216 inches, which
have been reeled on specially designed collapsible reels. Such skeins
are not practicable to handle in the dye house in the manner already
described. Sections of such skeins are wrapped in heavy waterproof paper
and tied tightly, so that the dye liquor cannot penetrate that portion,
and then the whole is put in the liquor, when the exposed part only will
be dyed.

Then again sometimes wood clamps are used, like that shown at Fig.
2, having a recess into which part of the skein is laid after being
carefully folded. The two halves are clamped together tightly in such a
manner that the dye cannot penetrate the clamped part of the skein while
the part left outside the clamp is dyed when the whole is immersed in the
dye liquor.


PRINTED FILLING

Another form of elaboration used in such goods is printing the skein yarn
used for the filling. This is done by using a machine having a pair of
fluted brass printing rolls, one of which is made to open on a hinge like
a gate so that a skein of yarn can be put around it. This roller is then
closed to its original position, so that with the two rollers parallel
and close together, and the skein of yarn hugged tightly between them,
the turning of the rollers imprints color on the skein. The skein is then
taken out and dryed before spooling. Different sets of rolls are used so
as to get fine and coarse effects and various colors are used in printing.

Where plaid or printed fillings are used for the elaboration of webs of
the honeycomb type, it is not unusual to introduce a couple of plain
cords in the center of the web, or possibly on either side, so as to
break up the flatness of the weave. This opens up the opportunity of
using lines of a different color in the warp which properly arranged will
produce a plaid-like effect.

[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Honeycomb]

[Illustration: Fig. 1A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Honeycomb.]

[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Clamp Used for Dying Parti-Colored Skeins]


BANDAGE WEBS

There is quite a large demand for surgical and bandage webs, Fig. 3, in
widths ranging from 2 to 4 inches. These webs are used for binding the
limbs and other purposes and are in the pure white or natural yarns.
They require to be made with a long soft easy stretch. An open reed of
about 12 dents per inch is employed. Four threads are generally used
for the binder, weaving two up and two down. The goods are similar in
construction to a regular lisle web, except that the gut is omitted in
order to get the easiest possible movement.

[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Bandage Webs; Fabric at Left Made with Plain
Rubber; Web at Right Made With Covered Rubber]

The yarn is generally the same quality and size for both warp and
filling, and is usually a soft spun 2-20s. The side of rubber is
generally about 38 or 40, with 40 picks per inch and a finished stretch
of 100 per cent. The use such webs are put to, necessitating as we have
already said a soft and sluggish stretch, prevents the use of a heavy
rubber thread, the result being that when the bandage is kept in close
contact with the warm body, the life of the fine rubber is of short
duration.

This condition, and the open weave necessary to get the easy stretch,
have made it expedient to use in many of these goods strands of rubber
which have been covered with cotton threads before weaving. This process
not only prolongs the life of the web, but allows for even more open
weaving, the use of different weaves than would be possible where the
uncovered rubber thread is used, and the production of a fabric more
suitable for the purpose.

In order to get the soft easy stretch which is the most desirable
characteristic of a bandage web, and yet have the necessary width, it
is not unusual to introduce a seersucker effect, as shown in Fig. 4, in
sections of the web so as to reduce the strong elasticity of the whole.
In an ordinary cotton cloth the seersucker or crinkle effect is usually
produced by the use of a separate warp of heavier yarn than the rest of
the fabric, which warp must be weighted differently and often a different
weave is employed to emphasize the contrast in the puckered seersucker
effect.

In the elastic web all this special preparation is unnecessary. Wherever
the seersucker stripe is desired, strands of rubber are left out which
of course takes away from these portions that element which contracts
the other part of the web, and a seersucker effect is the result. Such
stripes are often used for the ornamentation of some webs by having
narrow sections introduced for border effects, or running down the
center, and in fact they may be employed in a variety of ways, inasmuch
as they lend themselves effectively to different forms of coloring, in
relief to the main fabric.

[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Seersucker Effect]

[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Frill Web Made on Cam Loom]

[Illustration: Fig. 6.—Plain Web]

[Illustration: Fig. 6A.—Harness Draft and Weave for Fig. 6, Simplest Form
of Double Cloth]

In passing it might be well to note that where it is necessary to use
covered rubber threads special arrangements are required for making
the warps, as the covered thread cannot be handled like the ordinary
thread. The spools are placed in a rack which is required for each warp.
Arrangements have been made so that to each spool is attached a special
head, which can be weighted either by a lever brake or weight attached
to a cord running in a groove on the auxiliary head. By this arrangement
uniform delivery of the threads can be made to the warp beam so as to
avoid any puckering caused by irregular warping.


FRILL WEB ON CAM LOOM

In single cloth webs as already stated, the scope for ornamental effects
is necessarily limited. The bulk of such webs, particularly those made
with a wire edge, are for the most part plain. There is a type of garter
web, however, characterized as “frill” and shown at Fig. 5, which may
be made within the narrow limitation of cam looms, although the frill
feature is more generally used in connection with more elaborate fancy
effects.

The frill part is practically a section of non-elastic of any desired
width woven on to a section of elastic, which likewise may be of variable
width. The strands of rubber used in the central section, being woven
under tension, contract this portion of the fabric after it leaves the
press rolls. The side sections having no rubber in them do not contract,
but frill up uniformly on either side of the web in regular fluted folds.
No wire is required for the selvage when a frill is made, and the tension
of the filling is adjusted so as to hug the outside threads of the frill
warp and make a neat selvage without narrowing it in beyond the width of
the reed space occupied by the warp.

The frill part must be on a separate warp, apart from the binder threads
which are used in the central section. The elastic section is made in the
regular manner already described for webs of four harness capacity. The
frill is likewise constructed from the same harnesses, but the draft is
so arranged that two of the harnesses are used for one frill and two for
the other. This arrangement is made in order that the filling may only
be bound in alternating picks on the frill part, whereas in the body it
is bound at every pick. This method makes the frill soft and pliable, so
that it readily responds to the contraction which takes place in the body
part, and thus makes for regularity in the formation of the folds.

Should an exceptionally fine frill be desired, the same two harnesses
are used for the frill at either side, and the filling is bound or woven
in at each passage of the shuttle. Wherever this method is employed,
however, it becomes necessary to use a much finer yarn for the frill
warp, or a fewer number of threads spread over the front reed in the
frill. If such precautions are not taken the frill will be harsh and
stiff and will not fold uniformly as the center contracts. It may even
retard the desired contraction of the body.

It is not advisable in making frill webs to use a regular front reed
having the same spacing of dents all across. There is a liability of
getting a coarse looking frill, showing up the marks of the reed dents.
The plan more desirable is to use a reed with the dents required for the
frill part of the fabric spaced very much finer than those used for the
body, generally in the ratio of two to one, so that the frill threads may
be evenly distributed in ribbon-like formation and not show the coarse
lines of the dents.

Occasional calls are made for webs having a frill on one selvage only.
In this case it becomes necessary to use an edge wire on the side having
no frill, and exceptional care must be taken in this class of goods
to produce the proper balance. A soft frill is required and a limited
contraction of the body part.


DOUBLE CLOTH WEBS

Our remarks so far have been confined exclusively to single cloth webs of
a simple character, where, apart from the rubber and gut there is only
one warp used, and where both back and face of the web are alike. We will
now turn our attention to what are known as double cloth webs, where two
distinct cloths are woven, one for the face and one for the back, each
working independently of the other, but tied together by another warp
known as the binder, or else the two cloths interlock each other in such
a manner as to bind them together without the assistance of another warp.

By this method of weaving much thicker and heavier webs may be produced
with a limitation of elasticity which cannot be obtained by the single
cloth method. The weaves and materials employed in the face and back of
the goods may be identical, or weaves of a different character and stock
of different qualities, sizes and colors may be used. Fancy effects may
be used to embellish the face, while the back may be perfectly plain and
free from any coloring whatever.

There are certain features associated with the construction of double
cloth webs which make them entirely different to deal with. The different
weaves and the different stock employed necessitate splitting up the
warps into sections to accommodate such conditions. A separate warp
is required for both back and face and also one for the binder, which
delivers a much greater length of warp than either, necessitated by
the character of the weave used in binding the upper and lower cloths
together. A separate warp is also required for the gut, which goes in the
web perfectly straight and is shorter in length than any of the other
sections. Such goods also require a special warp for the selvage, so that
in the simplest form of such webs a bank of five warps is necessary. On
fancy goods the introduction of fancy warps may add to this number.


BALANCE BETWEEN BACK AND FACE

The element of a right balance between the back and face has to be
considered, and if care be not taken in the proper adjustment of the
stock the result may be that one side of the goods will assert control
over the other in such a manner as to prevent it lying flat and even.
When such a web is cut it will curl up so as to be almost uncontrollable.
Such a condition may arise from a variety of causes. If the weaves of
the face and back cloths are identical then it will be necessary to have
the face and back warps of the same size yarn or its equivalent. For
instance, should the face be a four-thread plain and 40/2 is used, and
the back only two threads, then the yarn used for the back warp must
be 20/2 so as to equal the four threads of 40/2 in the face. Should,
however, the face be a more open weave than the back, then an equal
weight of yarn in both cloths will not be right, and it will be necessary
to use yarn of a heavier weight for the face to compensate for the
freedom of the more open weave and effect a proper balance with the more
tightly woven back. There can be no fixed rule to apply to this, and only
experience will indicate the proper relationship between the two. In
Figs. 6 and 6A are shown the simplest form of double cloth, known as a
plain web.

By carefully following the weave it will be seen that while the face
weaves 3 up and 1 down, and the back 1 up and 3 down, the filling will
appear both on the face and back of the goods as 1 up and 1 down. If
the binder was not there it would be a tubular web, having the same
appearance all around. The binder, however, intersects the upper and
lower cloths at each pick and binds the two together in one complete
whole, while the rubber lies between the two, each strand being separated
by the interlocking binder threads.

It becomes necessary in order properly to connect the upper and lower
cloths at their extreme edges to use a selvage warp, which as will be
seen in Fig. 6A is drawn in on all four face and back harnesses, and the
threads of which are arranged so as to complete the weave all around.
To do this it will be seen that there is an odd thread at one side,
otherwise the weave at this point would show two threads operating
together next to each other, and would break up the continuity of the
weave.

[Illustration: Fig. 7.—Method of Banking a Set of Warps for Double Cloth
Webs]

The selvage plays an important part in the structure and weaving of the
web. It forms the pocket for covering in which lies the outside rubber
threads, and it must be so arranged that these threads can function
properly so as to make a piece of goods that will lie flat. In the first
place the yarn must be of such a size that with the proper number of
threads employed the selvage will contract uniformly with the body of
the goods, so that the web will not “frill” on account of a too heavy
selvage, or “belly” because it is too light.


CARE FOR SELVAGE

The threads must be properly divided in the front reed so as to make a
good clearance for the filling, which otherwise would “nib” up and make
an unsightly selvage. Then again, a careful adjustment of the weight
carried on the selvage warp must be made so as to accommodate it to the
requisite tension of the filling as it is delivered from the shuttle,
otherwise the edge rubber threads will be liable to chafe and cut off
when strained out of proper alignment with the front reed. It will be
observed in the draft that two rubber threads are used in each selvage,
which is necessary in order to control the additional yarn used in the
construction of the selvage.




CHAPTER V.

_Three Leaf Twill or Satin Face Woven in Conjunction with Plain
Back—Position of Back Rolls in Relation to Harness Shed—Use of Four Leaf
Twill—Filling Fancy Effects and Stitch Figures—Interchanging Figure and
Face_


Turning our attention from plain webs to combination weaves, we will take
up what is popularly known as the three-leaf twill, or satin face, woven
in conjunction with a plain back. This is a type of web not only used
for suspenders, but employed extensively for corset garter attachments
also. A web of this character when properly constructed has a smooth
velvet-like face. The threads are uniformly distributed across the width
without showing any of the “rowy” effect from the binder warps, which are
completely hidden by the heavy pile produced by the float of the face
threads. When the contraction of the web takes place, these floating face
threads mass together in a velvet-like pile, not only producing a smooth
handling web but materially increasing the thickness. Such webs are
generally constructed with a six-thread face and a four-thread back, and
have what is termed a round edge, similar to the selvage used on a plain
web. This arrangement shows up the twill face by contrast and gives the
fabric a much finer appearance.


HARNESS AND CHAIN DRAFT

Fig. 1 shows the harness and chain draft of such a web, together with the
construction of a properly balanced web for standard goods of 1⅛ inches
wide. It will be noticed that the face, consisting of 150 threads, is
split up into two warps of 75 threads each. This arrangement is necessary
in order properly to weigh them so as to get a good clearance in the
shed. The warp has to be divided likewise in the harnesses and put on six
harness frames, although the weave could be produced on three. It would
not be practicable to crowd 50 threads on one harness frame in the narrow
space available, as the harness eyes would shoulder and crowd too much
when changing.

In drawing-in this web, one face warp should be arranged so that the
threads are drawn on the first, third and fifth harnesses, and the other
face warp should be on the second, fourth and sixth. Such an arrangement
in the distribution of the warps makes it much easier on the mechanism,
and minimizes the risk of breakages. It is also important to make proper
divisions of the warps at the back rolls, inasmuch as some of the warps
have to be weighted heavily while others are only lightly weighted, and
also on account of the different take-up of the varied weaves.

The back rolls should be set in a graded position so as to prevent undue
friction of one warp against another. The binder warp should be worked
under the front roll on account of the extremely light weight this must
carry. Fig. 2 shows the proper position of the back rolls in relation to
the harness shed.

In a web of this character where the warp stock is somewhat crowded in
the front reed, there is always a tendency for a fibrous yarn to prevent
a perfect clearance in the shed, with a liability of producing occasional
floats through the shuttle skipping these threads. Such floats will pearl
up when the web contracts and make an imperfect face. This trouble may
be prevented by setting the back rolls a trifle higher than the breast
beam rod, so that the stock in the harness which is down will be slightly
tighter than that which is in the upper harness.

The chain draft is so arranged that the face harness will operate to
produce a twill which will be reverse to the twist of the yarn employed,
and thus reduce the prominence of the twill weave all possible. The
filling yarn should be soft, of about 15 turns per inch, and of good
uniform quality, in order to produce a nice selvage and not cut the
rubber. The reed dent inside the selvage rubber should be carefully
twisted at an angle to conform to the nipped in position to the rubber
thread, so that the outside edge of the dent will not cut the rubber when
the reed beats against the goods at the weaving line.

[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Three Leaf Twill, or Satin Face. Woven in
Conjunction With a Plain Back]

[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Showing Position of Back Rolls in Relation to Shed]


USE OF COARSER YARN

A fine looking twill may be produced with a somewhat coarser face yarn by
using a five threaded face over a six-thread repeat. This is shown in the
harness draft at Fig. 3.

In non-elastic fabrics there are available a variety of twill and satin
weaves for the production of soft lustrous surfaces, but this is not so
in elastic webs, as the contraction of the goods after weaving would
produce a ragged, spongy surface. A float of three picks on the face
is about the limit it is practicable to go on an elastic web, with few
exceptions, and even this only in connection with fine picking.


USE OF FOUR LEAF TWILL

A four leaf twill, however, can be used to great advantage when a heavy
body is desired, as for example what is known as “farmer’s web.” These
are usually made about two inches wide, and to further add to their
weight they have what is termed a cushion back, the weave of which is 7
down and 1 up. The use of these soft weaves on both face and back, while
giving the web great thickness on account of the deep velvet-like pile
produced, deprives it of much of its firmness. This condition is met by
the introduction of an auxiliary back warp, underneath the main back
warp, weaving 3 down and 1 up, which knits the upper and lower cloth more
firmly together, thus increasing the firmness of handles of the goods.

[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Five Thread Face Over 6 Dent Repeat]

Another web among the plain loom products calling for passing mention is
that specially made for the police and fireman’s brace. While this has
a 7 down and 1 up cushion back similar to the farmer’s web, it differs
in having a smooth plain face in place of a twill. This arrangement of
combining a plain face with a cushion back necessitates selection of
the sizes of yarn used for the various warps so as to maintain a proper
balance of the different weaves employed in the face and back. Otherwise
the goods would curl up and it would be impracticable to cut them up for
manufacture. Consideration must also be given to the effect of padding
the size upon such goods in the finishing process, of which we will say
more later.


FILLING FANCY EFFECTS

All the webs so far described have been such as could be produced on cam
looms of various capacities. We will now turn our attention to what are
generally understood as fancy effects. It might be well to treat these
under two distinct headings. Those made with the shuttle, or what are
called filling patterns, and those made from the warp, or what are called
stitch patterns.

The figures or fancy effects produced by floating the filling over
sections of the warp show up the filling with increased luster in
contrast to the warp. They are confined to no particular character of
design, and may range from the simplest effect produced on the fancy
harness loom or dobby to the more elaborate jacquard design. The
ground or body may be either plain or twill, or any other acceptable
weave suitable as a base for figuring, while the filling may be of a
contrasting color, either of silk or cotton as desired. The figure or
design may be made from the same shuttle used for the ground or it may
be made by an auxiliary shuttle, either used as an overshot or rise and
fall, according to the character of web desired.

Where the figure is made from the ground shuttle it is produced as
a sunken effect. It is made by burying sections of the face warp at
intervals so that in place of the face warp the filling is seen at these
points. No additional figure warps are required for this class of goods,
and elaborate designs are obtainable, although there is not the scope for
cross coloring that there is in the warp figure method.


STITCH FANCY PATTERNS

When the design is made from the warp, the figure threads are made to
float on the face of the goods so that upon contraction of the web after
weaving, these floats pearl up in prominence above the level of the face,
and make what is termed a stitch figure.

[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Point Draw Stitch Figure]

[Illustration: Fig. 4A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 4]

It is not our purpose here to particularize in design, which is
practically unlimited, but only to refer to those features which govern
the construction and illustrate as necessary. In order to maintain a
proper balance where figures are introduced on single cloth weaves, it is
necessary to distribute the figure warp uniformly over both the face and
back of the goods so as to maintain a proper balance between the two. In
the double cloth webs the figure warp, when not appearing on the face of
the goods, is allowed to run straight between the upper and lower cloths,
going in the same cavity or pocket as the rubber threads, and it works at
these times as a gut. This, of course, in a measure interferes with the
contraction of the goods and has to be taken into consideration in the
construction. Here again we must note the effect of the contraction in
piling up the floating-figure threads, and the necessity of limiting the
floats in making the design so as to avoid any ragged appearance.

[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Interchanging Figure and Face]

[Illustration: Fig. 5A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 5]

Fig. 4 shows a design of this character, with the harness and chain draft
at Fig. 4A. In this particular web there are six harnesses used for the
main body and ten for the figure, which is a point draw. While the figure
is evenly distributed on the web, wherever it is not seen it is running
between the upper and lower cloths, as already described, and acting as a
gut.

In order to get a proper balance of the web it is necessary to put gut
threads into the two outer cords where no figure appears, which must
be equivalent in size to the figure threads employed in each of the 21
center cords. If this is not done the web will contract unduly at the
edges and make it “belly.” The method here used of burying the figure
between the upper and lower cloths when not needed in carrying out the
design, affords opportunity for introducing additional warp threads
of different colors, so as to be able to bring up either one color or
another as desired in a design.

As most of the fancy head looms have not more than 18 harnesses, it
will be seen that the scope of design in this class of loom is somewhat
limited, therefore much ingenuity is required to get elaborate designs
from such limited capacity. But careful study opens up a variety of
methods by which a big range of designs is possible.


INTERCHANGING FIGURE AND FACE

Fig. 5 shows another type of design known as the “interchanging” fancy in
which the figure warp does not pile up above the surface as it does in
the stitch figure, but remains flat with the face of the web. The harness
and chain drafts are shown at Fig. 5A. In this character of design a
given number of face threads are duplicated by a like number of figure
threads, the same size of yarn being used for both. These face and figure
threads are drawn in duplicate harnesses and operated just reverse to
each other, so that when the figure is up at any particular part, the
interchanging face threads are down, and vice versa. The figure weaves
only three picks up on the chain draft, which is one face pick seen on
the face cloth, and this produces a perfectly flat web.

Another form of elaboration is shown in this web, known as the “picot”
edge. It is generally made of a well cabled thread of silk and is woven
in the selvage, being bound in for several picks and then allowed to
float outside, so that upon the contraction of the web it will pearl out
in small loops, adding much to the elaboration of the web.




CHAPTER VI.

_Combination of Weaves in a Fine Web—Sunken Effects Made on Head Motion
and Jacquard Looms—Employment of More Than One Bank of Shuttles—The
Overshot Method—Use of Different Colors and Grades of Stock—Binding Long
Floats_


A very effective combination of weaves in a fine web is seen at Fig. 1.
The middle of this web has for the face a 7 up and 1 down weave, but the
yarn and picking are fine. The yarn piles up just enough next to the
plain edge weave to set off the weaves in contrast to each other. It will
be noted that on either side of the silk figure there are two cords with
the binder thread left out between each, which further sharpens up the
contrast. The fancy effect is produced by the use of a heavy cabled cord,
the two outside threads being of reverse twist, so that when they pearl
up on contraction of the web, one turns to the right and the other turns
to the left, making an effective border.


SUNKEN EFFECTS

An altogether different type of figuring is seen in Figs. 2 and 3. Both
of these webs illustrate what is known as the sunken effect. In both
cases the face is a three-leaf twill, which character of weave is most
effective in hiding the filling beneath it. Therefore, the figure may
be worked out in sharp contrast. In Fig. 2, which is made on a fancy
head loom, it will be noticed that the face threads on the fifth cord on
either side are left out in order to assist in the carrying out of the
plaid effect aimed at in the figure. It will also be seen that the face
warp is striped in color. The character of the figure is such that the
major part of the face warp is operated in one solid block, making it
practicable to produce this on harnesses worked on a chain loom.

In the web illustrated at Fig. 3, each thread is operated in the design
independently. Such designs are only producible on a jacquard loom. But
inasmuch as the threads used in forming the figure are confined to the
face warp, it is not necessary to operate the back or binder threads from
the jacquard. It is more convenient to have these worked from the cams or
fancy head in combination with the jacquard, for the reason that a truer
and clearer shed can be obtained.

Furthermore, by having the back harness and the jacquard operated from
two distinct movements it becomes possible to time them differently so
as to obtain better results in the clearance of the stock in the shed. A
208 hook machine affords ample capacity for the making of these goods,
allowing for 26 rows of 8 hooks each, which will cover the requirements
of nearly all classes of web, giving an entire row to each cord. Such
arrangements will allow for six hooks for the face, one for the binder
and one for the gut on each row. Thus it will be practicable to use
different colored threads for the gut, which may be brought up in the
design in relief effects to the main figure as required.


CALCULATION FOR FIGURE DISTRIBUTION

In this type of figuring, calculation must be made to distribute the
figure uniformly so as to get a well balanced flat effect of the web.
As already stated, wherever the filling is shown, all the face stock at
these points is buried between the upper and the lower cloths, and is
acting as filler or gut in these places, preventing contraction. Should
heavy blocks be thus designed, the web would pucker up in an unseemly
manner. The filling used should be soft and uniformly spun, so that it
will mass well together and in a great measure prevent the buried face
stock from pricking through.

In designing webs of this character, calculations have to be made from
the web after it is woven and finished, otherwise the design may be
out of the desired proportion. A web may have 60 picks per inch on the
breast plate while weaving, but when contraction has taken place after
going through the press, it may have shrunk as much as 50 per cent.
The steaming and finishing process may further contract it another 10
per cent. which might make the picks about 100 per inch. Of these only
one-half appear on the face and the other half on the back. Therefore 50
picks per inch will be the proportion in which the design should be made,
and paper scaled according must be used.


CROSS SHOT WEAVING

We have so far confined our remarks to webs made on single shuttle looms.
Turning our attention to the use of more than one bank of shuttles we
would first make note of what is known as the cross shot. This is a form
of weaving which largely increases the output and has in it the further
element of economy, inasmuch as by this method the rubber warp can be
worked at a much higher tension than by the single shuttle method.

In the construction of single shuttle webs, the rubber harness rises
and falls at each passage of the shuttle across the shed. This movement
creates a friction on the rubber thread at the harness eye and an added
friction at the front reed by its passing up and down in the dent.
Friction is still further increased by the backward and forward movement
of the lay, which makes two such passages to one made by the cross shot.

In the cross shot method, the rubber remains stationary, with no upward
and downward motion, which enables the rubber thread to be stretched out
to its extreme limit while weaving, with little danger of chafing or
breaking. Over and under this stationary rubber are two distinct sheds,
one making the upper and the other the lower cloth. These two fabrics are
stitched together by the binder warp, which travels up and down through
both of these sheds.

In order to keep all the warp threads uniformly tight while shedding, it
is necessary to run these under separate back rolls, fixed at different
heights, properly centering the upper and lower sheds with the harness
and breast beams.


POSITION OF ROLLS

Fig. 4 will explain the position of the various rolls in relation to the
breast beam. It will also show the peculiar formation of the shuttles
used for this type of weaving, both pointing to one common center, made
necessary by the character of the two sheds. The bow of the upper shuttle
must be tipped downwards, and the lower bank must be tipped upwards, so
as to reduce the friction of the shuttles all possible when they are
passing through the sheds.

The round edge or covering for the outside rubber threads is drawn in the
harness on the upper shed, and while being woven this cloth is pulled
around the rubbers by the tension of the filling which is carried in the
lower shuttle. This tension is greater than that carried in the upper
shuttle, and so asserts itself by pulling the edge cloth around the
outside rubber until it meets the back cloth weave. The upper and lower
fillings are connected by what are known as tie threads. These threads
are drawn in the harness at each side of the body warp, next to the
edge, and are part of the binder warp. They are operated from the binder
harness, but are only allowed to travel through the lower shed as far as
the center of the web, instead of going all through both sheds, as do
the balance of the binder warp. This movement is accomplished by the use
of long looped harness eyes, which only carry these particular threads
through the one shed.

[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Effective Combination of Weaves In a Fine Web]

[Illustration: Figs. 2 and 3.—Sunken Effects]

[Illustration: Fig. 1A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 1]

[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Position of Rolls in Relation to Breast Beam for
Cross Shot Weaving]

The binder movement, extending through the two sheds, is formed by a
longer sweep from extra throw cams, or by the use of extended cam jacks,
or by a combination of both. The balance of these goods may be regulated
both by the warp and the filling, and any tendency towards curling may be
corrected by changing the weight of stock used on either.


USE OF DIFFERENT STOCKS AND COLORS

The use of upper and lower fillings also allows for the use of different
grades of stock in either shuttle. Colors may be used to match the face
warps while white may be carried in the lower shuttle to match the back.
Silk or other expensive stock may be used for the face without changing
the character of the stock used for the back of the goods, which is not
practicable in single shuttle work.

All this of course makes it possible to reduce the cost, making this
the most economical web produced. In the making of shoe goring, a
considerable quantity of which is still used for inserts for house
slippers, this is a very popular form of weaving, allowing for the
production of a face having a velvet-like pile of the color to match the
shoe leather, while the back may be perfectly plain and white.

It is a method employed in combination with the jacquard, where fancy
figures may be obtained on the face, using the cam movement for the back,
binder and edge, the weave of which is the same for all of these warps,
being simply a one up and one down. In such a combination the labor on
the jacquard movement is much reduced, inasmuch as the travel of the
lingo is much shorter than is required when made in connection with
single shuttle.


THE OVERSHOT METHOD

The overshot method, which we have previously referred to, is another
form of double shuttle web which has in it elements of economy differing
from the cross shot but equally important. This kind of weaving is
designed as a substitute for silk jacquard webs, which it has to a great
extent supplemented. Before its introduction it was customary to use a
slow running “rise and fall” lay movement, when making a silk figure with
the shuttle, putting in one pick of silk filling to each two body picks,
so that the output of web was only about one-half of what is possible
in overshot weaving. In the old method the silk used to pass from edge
to edge of the goods at each pick of the figure shuttle, and where the
figure did not appear it was buried between the upper and the lower
cloths.

In the overshot method the silk figure is bound down at the edge or
border of the figure and none of the silk is entirely buried out of
sight. In the overshot the body shuttle runs all the time, while the
figure or silk shuttle only runs with every alternate pick. The main
body of the goods is woven in every respect the same as in a single
shuttle web, and it may embrace all the weaves, such as plains, twills
or fancies, which are common to single shuttle weaving. Arrangements are
made, however, for the production of an auxiliary shed, by a movement
which pulls certain threads above the main shed, and while these are
open to pass the extra shuttle under them, and thus bind in the figure
filling. The lower part of the lay has straight shuttles, while the
upper bank of shuttles is tipped down to conform to the formation of the
auxiliary shed they are designed to pass through.

The binder threads from which the overshot figure is generally operated,
are weighted very lightly so that the individual threads will easily
stand the strain they will be subject to while making the auxiliary
shed. The Crompton & Knowles overshot dobby is generally used for this
purpose. This special machine is provided with two horizontal draw
knives, operating any or all of the 30 hooks, and is so arranged that
the connected warp threads may be lifted at either or both picks to the
height of the main shed, or to the additional height of the auxiliary
shed.

[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Simple Overshot Design]

[Illustration: Fig. 5A.—Draft for Fig. 5]

In Fig. 5A is seen the draft of a simple overshot figure covering 23
hooks, which are operated from one knife drawing in unison with the
binder harness, while the other knife is operating on the alternate shed,
or the heavy pick, and working in unison with the rubber harness. It will
be noticed that in the overshot design both sides of the figure do not
operate alike, but follow one pick behind the other. This is so arranged
that the binder may come up at the right pick to properly bind down the
silk in the goods, and so avoid any irregularity or ragged appearance at
the border of the figure.


MAKING OVERSHOT DESIGNS

In making overshot designs, care must be taken not to have the silk float
too long, or it will give the goods a rough coarse appearance. Should the
design call for a long span over a number of cords, it will be necessary
to bind at intervals as shown in Fig. 5A, and at each succeeding pick to
break the order of the binding as may seem advisable. The stitch or warp
figure coming up at each side of the main figure, must be pegged on the
dobby chain to operate on the reverse knife to the overshot figure, so as
to work on the pick when the binder harness is down.

[Illustration: Figs. 6 and 7.—Other Forms of Overshot Design]

Fig. 6 is an example of another form of overshot design, known as the
“matelasse.” In this the silk filling extends from side to side of the
web, as in the old form of jacquard, being bound down at different
points, the bindings forming the figure.

Fig. 7 shows still another form of overshot made by the operation of the
gut as figure instead of the binder, and which is worked on the heavy
pick instead of on the binder pick. This is done so that the intersecting
cords of face, which hide the silk at different points, can be raised in
order that the figure silk be hidden underneath it. To accomplish this,
each of these face threads is passed through slip leashes, which are
operated from the dobby. These slip leashes allow for the working of the
face thread in the main harness. At the same time it is possible to raise
them to the height of the upper shed so that the silk shuttle may pass
under them.




CHAPTER VII.

_Making Frills in the Middle of Goods—Woven Shirred Effects—Novel
Decoration at Edge of Fancy Frills—Lappet Weaving on Elastic Fabrics
Affords Opportunity for Elaboration at Small Cost—Production of Pearl
Edge—Special Fancy Drafts_


Woven elastic fabrics are open to many forms of elaboration that are not
possible in non-elastic weaving. We have already made mention of the
frills woven at the outer edges of the goods, formed by the fluting of
non-elastic sections produced by the contraction of the center part. This
same effect may also be used in the center of the goods. To accomplish
this it becomes necessary to employ a distinct set of harnesses to
operate each half of the web, together with additional harnesses on which
the frill sections are drawn in.

The chain draft is arranged so that the shuttle is made to pass through
one-half of the web and a half section of the frill, and then return. The
shuttle then passes through the other half section of body and frill. The
operation is repeated continuously. Fig. 1 shows a sample of web in which
the frill is brought up for a distance and then buried inside the goods
for a short section. Fig. 1A gives the harness and chain draft.

[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Web With Center Frill]

[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Fancy Figure With Seersucker Center]

The weave used for producing a frill may also be used in the center of
the main body; it then produces a seersucker effect. At Fig. 2 there will
be seen an example of this, in combination with a figure on either side
of the seersucker, the figure part being bordered with a regular frill.
The insertion of this seersucker section lessens the number of rubber
strands used in the whole, and it therefore will be found advisable
to use a somewhat heavier size of rubber in the remaining cords to
compensate for this. The harness and chain draft for Fig. 2 are given at
Fig. 2A.


WOVEN SHIRRED EFFECT

Another example of an effective form of fancy elastic weaving may be
seen at Fig. 3, where the center or rubber part of the web is made to
imitate a shirred effect. In the regular method of shirring a piece of
plain elastic web is used, under tension, and is passed through a sewing
machine where a wider piece of ribbon or some other light non-elastic
material is stitched to it by a series of needles running side by side.
When the web contracts, upon being released from tension, the non-elastic
part forms in a regular fluting on the face of the web. At the same time
the remainder of the wider non-elastic section frills up on either side
of the elastic part.

[Illustration: Fig. 1A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 1]

[Illustration: Fig. 2A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 2]

The method of producing this effect direct upon the loom is done by an
interchange of weaves, first making a short section of single cloth
and then changing to a short section of double cloth weave. There being
no binder warp employed to knit the upper and lower cloths together,
the strands of rubber will lie between the two cloths so formed. Upon
the contraction of these strands of rubber the outer cloths are thrown
out, and appear as flutings on the web, while the side sections in which
there is no rubber will complete the frill effect. This woven method has
in it the advantage of making both sides of the web alike, whereas in
the stitched shirring the back of the goods is not so presentable and
unfits it for many uses. It also eliminates the added expense of labor in
assembling the different parts.


NOVEL DECORATION AT EDGES

A novel form of decoration is seen at the extreme edge of the fancy frill
at Fig. 4. This may be produced by what is known as the draw-in method.
This effect was formerly produced by the use of additional banks of
shuttles in a rise and fall lay, but is now made by using two threads of
cabled silk coming from spools, these threads being worked by the harness
the same as a warp. They are very lightly delivered by a delicately
adjusted return spring arrangement. The threads are operated on a special
harness, being passed through the harness eyes outside of all the other
warp stock, and then through a dent in the front reed as far away from
the other stock as is desirable to form the size of the loop required.

[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Woven Shirred Effect]

[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Novel Edge Decoration]

The harness used for these threads stands still a given number of picks,
and at regular intervals is brought down so that the draw-in thread comes
in contact with the shuttle filling, which then passes around it. As the
shuttle returns through the open shed, the filling or weft pulls the
easily running draw-in thread with it, until it comes in contact with
other warp threads, which the filling passes around, and so stops the
further progress of the draw-in thread into the shed. The thread at the
same time is carried around a wire which works in a dent next inside the
one in which the draw-in thread passes. Quite a variety of fancy effects
may be produced in this manner. Threads of different materials and colors
may be used and drawn across the face of the web at different points, and
selvages of a distinctly different color and character to the body of the
goods may be made.


LAPPET WEAVING

Lappet weaving on elastic fabrics is a method which has not been
extensively used, probably on account of the limitations of design
obtainable by this style of weaving. Nevertheless, it affords opportunity
for considerable elaboration at a very small cost. The loom attachment
which permits the making of these patterns, which are somewhat similar
to embroidery, is known as the lappet motion. Wherever it has been used
it has been found to be serviceable. It can be attached either to a
plain loom or a fancy loom. It is a system of levers operated by a chain
composed of different sized balls, arranged according to the pattern
desired.

On the loom lay are one or two slides running the full length of the lay,
which are moved laterally by the different sized chain balls. They can
also be raised and lowered as required by the design. Both these slides
have generally three needles for each suspender web, which are spaced at
equal distances apart, one or all of which may be threaded and used. When
slides are lowered into the web, the shuttle filling or weft passes over
the yarn which is carried in the needle eyes and binds it into the cloth.
Then by moving the slides backward and forward for succeeding picks, and
each time binding the thread into the cloth, the various lappet patterns
are produced.

[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Lappet Weaving]

[Illustration: Fig. 6.—Broken Effect on Silk Frill]

The figures are mostly irregular trailing patterns, as shown at Fig.
5, and well adapted to narrow goods. Dots of different sizes and in
different positions may also be made, but it is not practical to get the
finely finished lines which can be obtained from other methods where
there is positive control of any particular warp threads or group of
threads, as for instance in jacquards and overshots.

The sliding bar of the lappet motion may vary slightly in its movements
so that the needles will not always pierce through at exactly the same
points at each repeat of the pattern, although the general design will be
maintained. The threads which feed the needles should be of good clear
ply material, free from slubs and irregularities, so that they will pass
freely through the needle eyes, and they should have enough turns to
enable them to withstand the friction resulting from the backward and
forward sliding movements of the lay passages. The yarn must be delivered
from independent spools, which work with perfect freedom, and measures
should be taken to control the stock by the use of delicate springs.

The material used for the lappet figure is perhaps best run from grooved
spools which are so weighted that they feed easily through the needles at
every forward movement of the lay.


PEARL EDGE

An effective and inexpensive method of elaborating a silk frill is found
in what is known as the pearl edge. This adds much to the richness of the
goods, besides giving the appearance of greater width at slight increase
of cost. The pearl edge is produced by a series of fine steel edge wires,
which are carried in separate dents of the front reed outside of the
frill itself. Each wire is operated by a special harness which brings it
into the weaving lines as desired, so that the filling may pass around
it and make pearl loops at these particular places. It will be found
necessary to use hard steel dents in the front reed to work the wires in,
otherwise the dents will soon be cut from the constant wear of the wires.

A silk frill may also be much enriched by special fancy drafts. These
allow for the operation of groups of threads so that the filling passes
over and under them and show up the luster of the silk filling in blocks
contrasting with the more plainly woven parts. An example of this is
shown at Fig. 6.




CHAPTER VIII.

_Designs Produced by Use of Jacquard in Connection with Cams or Head
Motion—Weaving Buttonholes in Webs—Manufacture of Surgical Belts and
Bandages—Combination Woven and Printed Designs—Method of Printing_


In previous articles we have confined our remarks to the production of
elastic fabrics on plain and fancy looms. These machines are more or
less limited in capacity, and the stock must be operated in groups of
threads. Considerable care is necessary in the selection of patterns
best adapted to these looms. In jacquard weaving each separate thread is
controllable, and the scope of pattern and design is limited only by the
space available on the face of the fabric.

Of course certain general rules, which have been laid down for the
production of designs on fancy looms, are applicable to the making of
jacquard designs. For example, where sunken effects are aimed at it is
necessary to uniformly distribute the buried stock, just as it is in
the fancy loom method; otherwise uneven or “cockled” web will result on
account of there being too much buried stock at some particular point,
which prevents uniform contraction.


DESIGNS IN SUNKEN EFFECTS

Fig. 1 is an illustration of a pattern where the sunken effect is well
distributed. This pattern also shows the operation of two sets of figure
threads brought up alternately. Both warps are buried to allow the back
filling to appear in relief. This indicates the wide scope of design
possible on a single shuttle, which is almost unlimited.

Fig. 2 illustrates a double shuttle design which has a sunken warp effect
in connection with a silk figure. It also serves to illustrate the effect
of skein dyed silk for decorative purposes. Fig. 3 shows still another
type of double shuttle design, in which a parti-colored face warp lends
an entirely different effect to a design. Fig. 4 is an example of three
shuttle work where one shuttle is used for the ground, and two shuttles
for the silk figure.

It would be easy materially to enlarge on the various types of design
possible in jacquard weaving of elastic webs but this is not necessary.
If a straight tie-up is used the scope of design is almost unlimited.
The custom generally adopted is to operate the back, rubber and gut
from chain or cam harness, as the same movement of all these threads is
maintained continuously, and to operate the face and binder from the
jacquard. Fig. 5 is an illustration of a fully rigged jacquard suspender
loom, having two machines mounted on it, and with the back and rubber
harness operated by the fancy head.


JACQUARD TIE-UP

Too much emphasis cannot be laid on the necessity for exercising the
greatest care in the jacquard tie-up and the leveling of the strings.
As already stated in a previous article, any failure in the initial
arrangements will result in constant trouble and faulty work. Mispicks
and floats may not be serious in many types of non-elastic fabrics,
but in elastic webs a float will so pearl up on construction that the
goods will be ruined. Once again, and of the greatest importance,
measures should surely be taken to have some form of screw adjustment
for the raising and lowering of the jacquard machines to compensate for
expansion and contraction of the strings, caused by changing atmospheric
conditions.

[Illustration: Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4]

[Illustration: Fig. 6.—Formation of Abdominal Belt]


WEAVING BUTTONHOLES

In the assembling and making up of narrow elastic fabrics, particularly
suspenders, it is often necessary to use buttonholes in the finished
products. Sometimes the buttonholes are cut and worked on the ordinary
buttonhole sewing machines, but on account of the difficulty arising in
the controlling of the strands of rubber when it is cut for working, a
very unsightly buttonhole often results. It has therefore been found
advisable to weave the buttonholes, particularly for what is known as the
“Guyot” suspender, where elastic pieces having buttonholes are used for
the back ends, and non-elastic straps, also having buttonholes, are used
for the front straps.

The loom will automatically weave the buttonholes at any desired place,
and at the same rate of speed at which the plain part is woven. This
is accomplished by the use of two banks of shuttles, both of which are
running in the same direction at every pick of the loom, but only one
of which, (the upper) is engaged with the cloth while the plain part of
the goods is being woven, the other bank running “dead” underneath the
goods during the operation. When the buttonhole is about to be made, two
distinct sheds are formed and then the two banks of shuttles are engaged,
the upper bank on one half of the strap and the lower bank on the other
half, until the completion of the buttonhole. Then one shed is again
formed in place of the two, and the upper bank resumes the operation of
weaving the plain part of the strap.

[Illustration: Fig. 5—Jacquard Suspender Loom With Two Machines and Fancy
Head]

This process of changing from the single to the double shed is
accomplished by the use of a specially designed cam jack made in two
sections, to which are attached two harness frames, in each of which one
side of the strap is drawn. While weaving the plain part of the strap
both sections of the cam jack operate in unison, running side by side
from the same cam, but when the buttonhole is “called on” a device for
spreading apart each pair of cam jacks is operated, and the two sheds
are then formed. At the same time a lever movement changes the position
of the lay, so that the two banks of shuttles take new positions and
properly engage the two sheds.

Facilities are provided for governing the length of the straps and the
position and length of the buttonholes. When the lower shuttle is not
engaged in the buttonhole shed, the filling may run loosely beneath the
goods, and require trimming off between the buttonholes. This trimming
may be avoided by operating the center binder thread, putting the same
in a skeleton harness and giving it an extended shedding so that this
particular thread may be dropped below the main shed and allow the lower
shuttle to engage it. By this process the thread is bound in the goods at
every pick of the loom and does not need trimming.

The elastic back end, having a buttonhole in it, is also made on a
special loom, which has a “rise and fall” movement of the lay. It has
a chain fancy head with what is known as a Gem multiplier on it for
regulating the length of the plain part, so that one repeat of the plain
weave can be multiplied indefinitely and the buttonhole chain called on
as desired.

In making up sections of elastic webs for various purposes, particularly
when required to be attached to garments, it is often found that the
joinings are bulky and unsightly on account of their thickness. A web
is made on the special loom just described of such character that it
does away with this objection. A section of plain web may be woven of
any desired length, and then another section made in which the upper
and lower cloth are woven separately for a given distance. After being
taken from the loom this double section is cut in the middle, so that the
non-elastic part may be used for attaching to the garment. When thus made
the rubber and binder lie “dead” between the two cloths, and are trimmed
off after the non-elastic part is cut in two.


MAKING ABDOMINAL BELTS

There is a growing demand for webs of various characters for surgical and
orthopedic purposes. One of these which calls for special attention is
a web used in the manufacture of abdominal belts. The width varies from
about four inches, where it is used to support the back, to about six
inches at the part which is used for the support of the abdomen.

Such a web is constructed in the regular manner employed on plain webs,
except that it is woven in a deep front reed made to taper from top to
bottom, from fine to coarse. This reed is arranged in a reed pocket
attached to the lay bed, and is designed to slide up and down behind it.
Underneath the lay is an adjustable screw mechanism, which is so operated
that it can be made to remain stationary for a given length of time, and
then gradually work up and down in a given period. This allows a web to
be produced with a formation similar to that shown at Fig. 6.

The rubber cords lie close together while weaving the first narrow part,
and gradually spread while operating at the wide part, returning to their
original position for the other narrow end. If properly constructed the
goods will lie perfectly flat at the narrow ends, and the opening up of
the cords by the spreading of the reed dents at the wide center will give
more freedom to the individual strands of rubber in this section, which
will cause the goods to “belly” at this point. This rounding formation
especially adapts them for the purposes for which they are intended.
Various modifications of the taper web may be made in this manner, but
the same general plan is applicable to all.


PRINTING DESIGNS ON ELASTIC WEB

The printing of designs on elastic web is a form of embellishment which
opens up large possibilities for variety of effect, and adds much to the
selling quality of many webs at slight additional cost. Moreover it gives
an opportunity for changing the character of many woven patterns which
may not have proved good sellers, but when printed will often become
the most popular patterns offered. A woven striped effect with a few
crossbars printed on, transforming it into a plaid, changes its character
entirely. Or a few dots distributed over a pattern hitherto undesirable
may make big changes in its selling qualities.

But apart from this the field of original design is practically
unlimited. The work is most satisfactorily accomplished by using oil inks
of various colors, making proper arrangements for the drying so that the
colors are absolutely fast. Colors should not be used which are more or
less fugitive and liable to spread in the process of finishing.

The goods, when printed, are run loosely in cans and allowed to stand
a reasonable time for proper absorption of the ink. They are then run
slowly through a heated chamber to set the colors, a number of strips
being put through the drying chamber at one time. The pattern rolls are
best made with the design raised on the face of the pattern, and the ink
uniformly distributed on the raised part. Care should be used to have
the set of the rolls so adjusted that the part where the figure does not
appear will not come in contact with the ink roll.

This method has proved better than using engraved rolls, besides being
less expensive. After the design is drawn it is photo-engraved on a plate
of a given length so that it may be shaped and fitted around the printing
roll, great care being taken to have the repeat properly connected,
particularly where the pattern is a continuous one without any break in
the design.

[Illustration: Fig. 7.—Diagram of Machine for Printing Elastic Fabrics]

Fig. 7 is a sketch of a printing machine. The design roll A is five
inches in diameter and constructed of a number of thicknesses of maple
wood, glued and screwed firmly together, with the grain well crossed
to prevent shrinkage and warping. The design plate is carefully fitted
around and pinned securely to this roll. The rubber covered rolls B
and C carry the ink and are positively driven. The small roll D, while
revolving by frictional contact with roll C, is also vibrated sidewise by
a cam-driven lever E, so as to distribute the ink uniformly. The rolls
are run on steel centers and can be so adjusted as to center any given
pattern on the goods.

All the roll carriers are fitted in a taper groove which is planed to the
full length of the frame bed, so that the pressure of the different rolls
can be accurately adjusted. The machines are easily operated and print
12,000 to 15,000 yards of web a day.




CHAPTER IX.

_Making Warps for Elastic Fabrics—Quills for Use in Shuttles—Effect
of Finishing Processes Must Be Calculated from Beginning of Web
Construction—Details of Processes and Machines for Different Styles of
Goods—Care to Avoid Acid in Goods—Rubber’s Reaction on Copper_


The making of cotton warps for elastic fabrics, particularly for double
cloth webs, involves considerable thought and care in view of the
number of sections necessary for a properly constructed fabric, and the
different weaves employed. Owing to the contraction of the rubber, it is
essential at all times that the proper balance be maintained between the
face and the back of the goods.

This necessitates a uniform weight of stock where the weaves on the face
and the back are identical, no matter how the size of the yarns used may
vary, and a variable weight of stock where the weaves are different. All
this is determined by experimental work when establishing the grade.
These conditions necessitate separate warps for the face and back. Then
again the different weaves employed involve a variable length in the
take-up and this alone would make it impracticable to combine the various
weaves.

It is invariably the plan to use fine stock for the face and a coarser
material for the back. Of course it would not be practical to put these
together on the same beam. The crowded condition of material used
necessitates the further splitting of the face and back sections. The
binder, which takes up so much faster than any of the other yarns, also
requires a special warp.


SELVAGE UNDER SPECIAL CONTROL

The general appearance of the finished product being so dependent upon
the character of the selvage, it is advisable to have these threads under
special control, so that they may be treated in the best possible manner
to produce a satisfactory shed, and allow the filling to get a good
clearance. So as to secure a smooth well-rounded edge it is therefore
necessary to have this on a special beam.

It will be seen, therefore, that in an ordinary piece of double cloth
elastic web there will be required at least five warps: back, face,
binder, edge and gut. Figures and fancy effects will often necessitate
auxiliary warps. With very fine webs, having six threads to a cord, it
is often found necessary further to split up the face to obtain proper
working conditions. Figs. 1 and 1A show a six-cord web, together with
warp calculations for the goods.

The employment of so many warps to each strip of web, which are
automatically delivered by the friction let-off levers described in
a previous article, prohibits the use of warps where the threads are
equally distributed across the beam, as is the practice in wide fabrics,
the method usually being to tape them on the beams.


WARPING MACHINE

The required spools for the number of threads in the warp are put in a
creel, each thread passing under an electrically connected wire, which
is held out of contact by the running thread while the warp is making.
If the thread should break, the wire would drop and make an electrical
connection which would automatically stop the machine. Fig. 2 shows
a view of a warping machine such as is used for this work. They are
generally constructed so as to allow for two or four beams, all of which
may be run together or started, stopped or run individually, as required.

[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Six-Cord Web]

[Illustration: Fig. 1A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 1]

Each beam is friction driven so that a uniform speed is obtained in the
delivery of the yarn from the spools. Beams are also so arranged that
they will stop automatically on reaching a given size. Each warp thread
is passed through a pair of reeds, fitted with dead stops in the center
of alternating dent spaces, so that leases may be put in the warps at
fixed intervals to assist in keeping them straight in the looms.

In taping the warps on the beams, it is customary in some mills to run
the threads over a small steel flanged pulley about one and one-half
inches wide, which will keep each thread in its proper position and make
the tape absolutely straight and flat as it leads to the beam. A perfect
fabric is largely dependent upon how well the warps have been made, but
it must not be forgotten that a good warp may be spoiled by a poor beam.

Beam flanges should not lie flat against the warp creel standards, but
should be kept clear by the formation of the head near the barrel, which
should have enough prominence at this point to keep the flanges clear,
and thus reduce the friction to a minimum. The edges of the flanges
should be perfectly smooth so as to allow for uniform delivery by the
contact lever. Much of the beam abuse which occurs in many mills might be
avoided by provision being made for beam racks at convenient points.

[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Warping Machine]


QUILLS FOR SHUTTLES

The making of proper quills for use in the shuttle is of no small
importance, for on this the evenness and uniformity of the selvage very
much depends. When flanged wood quills are used, the guides should be
carefully adjusted so that the filling is uniformly spread over the
entire length of the quill, allowing for perfect freedom at each end
without dragging. Quills should not be overloaded. In drum pressure
quilling, the automatic stop should be so arranged that the quill will be
filled even with the outer edge of the flanges and no more.

Should there be any tendency to hardness in the material used for
filling, it may be found advisable to run the thread over a plush pad on
which has been applied a light application of cocoanut oil, but great
care should be exercised not to overdo this as there is nothing so
hurtful to rubber goods as oil.

The quills should only be of sufficient length to allow for uniform
delivery from the shuttle without dragging at the ends. To assist in this
elongated shuttle eyes are preferable to round ones, so as to shorten the
angle at which the filling leaves the quill when running from the extreme
end. Thumb bits should be so adjusted that the delivery is uniform from
start to finish. The quill flanges should not lie flat against the
sides of the quill opening, but should be pointed at the ends so as to
reduce the friction. Quill wires should be of hard tempered steel and be
perfectly straight at all times. When it becomes necessary to run narrow
goods in wide spaces, recoil springs should be provided to gather up the
loose filling.


CARE REQUIRED IN FINISHING

The finishing of elastic fabrics is a process which demands great care,
and has to be taken into calculation from the beginning of the web
construction. Calculations must always be made as to what effect heat,
moisture and sizing will have upon the covered up elastic threads,
confined as they are in a multiple of small cavities and under high
tension. As soon as the softening influence of heat and steam operate
upon the covering of cotton yarn which confines these threads, the rubber
strands begin to assert themselves and contraction at once takes place.
To what extent this can go must be predetermined in fixing values, and a
certain degree of uniformity of contraction arranged for.

Webs which are perfectly flat and straight when taken from the looms are
liable to be transformed into unshapely products and completely ruined
by unsuitable finishing. For instance, take a web with a twill center
and a plain border which is apparently flat and satisfactory at the
loom. The effect of heat and steam upon such a web will be to contract
the soft woven center more than the harder woven plain border, which
will cause the web to be long-sided and curl. Such a condition must be
anticipated in the construction of the web and provision made to offset
its occurrence. Sometimes it must be met by a change in the size of
some of the yarns used, or number of threads employed at given points,
or perhaps added gut threads must be introduced to stop contraction in
certain places. It must always be remembered that we are dealing with
a very much alive element when we are finishing rubber goods, and that
unexpected results may at any time arise.


FINISHING MACHINES

Finishing machines vary both in design and capacity, but the general
principle is the same in all. A series of drying cans are arranged
for the application of the sizing mixture. Some machines are laid out
horizontally and some are upright. In the longitudinal layout the
machines are more easily accessible in their different parts and under
better control, while the upright machines are more compact and occupy
less floor space. Fig. 3 shows a horizontal machine of the latest
type. It has a drying capacity of eleven cylinders, 24 inches wide, 36
inches in diameter, allowing for a web contact of about 100 feet. These
cylinders are arranged in two decks so as to economize in floor space.

The goods first pass through a pair of independently driven circular
brushes, fixed at the feed end of the machine, to clear them from lint
and dirt before being steamed and dried. They next pass between two pairs
of nip rolls between which are fixed the steaming and sizing attachments.
The goods pass through dry high pressure steam which is confined in
a steam chest. They pass into and out of this chest through slots
underneath the cover. A trough carries the condensed steam away from the
goods and prevents dripping, otherwise they would be spotted.

[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Narrow Fabric Finishing Machine]

The steam pressure must be carefully controlled so as to get uniform
shrinkage of the goods. The steaming process softens the cotton, and the
rubber threads, which are under considerable tension, gradually creep up
and contract the goods. The steaming also makes the web more absorbent
and thus prepares it for the size bath, through which it is passed under
submerged brass rollers. The size is kept at a uniform heat by steam
heated copper coils. The web then passes through the second pair of nip
rolls, which are worked under pressure so as to squeeze out the size
before the web reaches the drying cans.


ALLOWANCE FOR CONTRACTION

The first of the dry cans is usually covered with cloth, so as to absorb
any size which may remain on the surface of the goods and allow it to
penetrate by further softening. As the goods continue to pass over the
hot cans a gradual process of contraction takes place. This contraction
is provided for by a corresponding regulation of the speed of the cans.
Intermediate expansion pulleys are provided for this purpose, so that
the speed adjustments can readily be made to meet the requirements of
different kinds of web.

The two pairs of front rubber nip rolls are likewise independently
driven, so as to provide for the shrinkage which takes place at the steam
box and size bath. At the delivery end of the machine the goods pass
through a set of nip rolls which are belt-driven from cone pulleys, so as
to be able to deliver the goods at the speed they leave the last drying
cans. From these last nip rolls, which are fixed quite high, they drop
into receiving cans or boxes.

Ten to twenty-five strips running side by side are finished at one time.
Adjustable guides are provided at different places on the machines to
keep the goods running in proper position. The speed of the machine is
usually governed by a Reeves transmission, and the delivery of the goods
ranges from 10 to 15 yards per minute, according to the requirements of
finishing. Three inches per yard is generally allowed for shrinkage,
but this again is determined by the goods. Neglect at any point in this
process may so interfere with the calculated shrinkage that values and
costs are materially changed.

New patterns and grades should be tested for shrinkage as soon as the
goods come from the loom, as short lengths made in sample looms are not
at all times reliable. Frequent tests are also advisable to see that
original conditions are maintained, as changes made by heat, steam and
speed are always liable to occur.

The immersing process is used mostly for single cloth garter webs. Double
cloth webs having a warp pile on the face are sized on the back only.
Exceptions are made on double cloth white webs used for the corset trade,
which are bathed with a very light size and often tinted in this bathing
process to the desired tone of white to match the cloths they are to be
associated with. Where the goods are sized on the back only the effect of
this has to be considered when they are constructed, and provision made
to maintain a proper balance under such conditions.

In frilled webs the elastic portion only is sized, so as not to interfere
in any way with the soft flutings of the frill. This is done by guiding
each strip over narrow pulleys which are run through the size bath. The
size accumulated on these pulleys is absorbed by the web passing over
them.


ACID IN GOODS

The requirements of the trade are so varied, and the types of web so
numerous, that no formula for size is suitable for general use. Care must
be taken, however, to avoid any sizes containing acids. Results from the
use of such preparations may seem excellent at the machine but later on,
when the goods are made up and come in contact with metal parts, the
metal is quickly tarnished, and the result may be heavy claims for damage.

It may be well to note here that the sulphur used in the process of
vulcanizing the rubber has the effect of blackening the copper cans
and the rolls over which the goods must pass. This can be effectively
prevented by having the cans nickel plated, thus doing away with much
risk of dirty goods, and of constant scourings and washing of the
different parts.

[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Narrow Fabric Singer]

Provision should be made for sufficient depth in the sizing pans so that
they will hold a liberal supply of size. Replenishment should be made at
regular intervals and the heat maintained at a uniform temperature to get
satisfactory results. It is advisable to make provisions to travel the
web over the top of the machine for a distance after immersion in the
size bath, and before it strikes the hot cans, so as to allow for proper
absorption of the size.

All these details are best worked out by experience. Webs are generally
fed into the machine from racks after being properly wound up, and
great care must be taken to avoid any variable tension on the webs when
entering the machine.

On lisle webs, a process of gassing or singeing takes place prior to
finishing for the purpose of removing any fuzz or fibre from the goods.
Fig. 4 shows a gassing machine used for this purpose. It is run at a high
rate of speed and several strips are gassed at once. When the machine is
running the flames are close to the web, but upon the stopping of the
machine the flames are carried away out of contact. In gassing white and
colors, great care must be exercised to have the gas mixture correct and
free from any carbonizing effect on the goods.




CHAPTER X.

_Embossing Webs—Type of Construction and Design for Which Process is
Adapted—Braiding Flat Elastic Fabrics, Plain Cords for Athletics and
Airplanes, and Fancy Cords—How Sizes Are Indicated—Difference Between
Woven and Braided Effects_


The embossing of classic fabrics is a form of elaboration which is not
adapted for long stretch webs.

It has been confined mostly to goods of short stretch, suitable for use
in the manufacture of suspenders. In long stretch webs the patterns
will not stand out prominently for any length of time. After repeated
stretchings and wear, they lose much of the desirable sharpness of
detail, and become flat and indistinct. Twills and loose weaves of a
similar character should be avoided for embossing. The best results are
obtained on firm, closely woven plain webs which take the impress of the
design with clearness and retain it for a greater length of time.


DESIGNS SUITABLE FOR EMBOSSING

In planning such work it is well to avoid designs which run for any great
length with the warp, and to select effects where the general run of the
design is at an angle to the direction of the warp threads, rather than
with them. This will prolong the life of the figure.

The process is similar to that used in embossing paper and leatheroid
goods. The machine must be heavy and made to stand considerable pressure.
It should be run slowly so as to allow the goods to get sufficient heat
while in contact with the embossing roll. The webs should pass through
a steam softening process just ahead of the embossing. This steaming is
done by having a perforated steam pipe confined in a covered box, the web
passing through slots at either side. It puts the goods in condition to
receive and retain the impress of the figure.


EMBOSSING MACHINE

Figs. 1 and 2 show a machine used for embossing elastic fabrics. It
consists chiefly of a heavy frame A, a case hardened steel roll B on
which the design has previously been engraved, and a hard paper roll C.
The engraved steel roll B is heated with steam and may be subjected to
heavy pressure by turning the hand wheels D.

When putting in a new design and accompanying paper roll, it is necessary
to run the machine empty for a few hours, gradually applying the pressure
at the hand wheels in order to mesh the design into the paper roll so as
to get a strong impress on the goods. When moire-antique or water effects
are desired, the embossing rolls are engraved with straight lines of the
desired distance apart, and the goods are fed into the machine after
passing over irregularly formed rollers, which prevent them from going
through the machine straight. Fig. 3 is an example of this effect, with
the gros grain in the middle water-marked, and bordered with a fancy
effect not embossed.


BRAIDING ELASTIC FABRICS

The braiding of elastic fabrics is a simple process when compared with
weaving. It does not lend itself to any great variety of fancy effects,
but a great variety of elastic goods are braided, which serve many
purposes. Round cords are made in sizes from a single strand of rubber
thread, such as is used for the protection of eye glasses, to the
covering of multiple rubber threads for making a cord which may be one
inch or more in diameter. Some of these cords are used by professional
athletes in acrobatic work. Large quantities of heavy cord are now used
for shock absorbers in the manufacture of airplanes, and they are much
used for corset laces and doll cords.

[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Embossing Machine]

[Illustration: Fig. 2.—End View]

[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Embossed Water-Marked Effect on Middle stripe]

[Illustration: Fig. 4.—At Top, Cord Used by Acrobats; At Bottom, Exercise
Cord In Two Colors]

The braiding machines are small and compact, and are generally operated
in gangs on benches. One operator can care for many machines, as they
stop automatically when a thread breaks. Each machine may consist of a
variable number of spool carriers, according to the character of the
work they are engaged on. Carriers are made to travel around cam-like
grooves formed in the bed of the machine, being operated by a chain of
gears which propel them around a predetermined course. Gears and slots
are so arranged that the carriers are made to cross and recross each
other in their passage, so that the various threads of yarn carried are
plaited around the strands of rubber. The spools used on the carriers are
specially designed, and have a series of notches on the upper end, into
which a stop will drop upon the breaking of any of the different covering
threads, automatically stopping the machine.

The rubber is carried on a beam such as is used in weaving. These beams
are grooved on either side for receiving friction cords or belts, on
which are hung weights so as to govern the let-off of the beams and keep
the rubber at a high tension. The beams are hung on brackets underneath
the machines. If cords are being made, the rubber is delivered through a
central hole in the bed of the machine and fed up so that the covering
threads may be plaited around it. As there is no friction on the rubber
threads delivered in this manner (like the friction in weaving caused
by the repeated passage of the reed), the rubber can be worked at the
highest possible tension without fear of chafing or breaking, and
economical results in this respect are obtainable.

[Illustration: Fig. 5.—At Bottom. Flat Braid Contracted; At Top, the Same
Braid Before Contraction]

[Illustration: Fig. 6.—At Bottom, Braided Frill; At Top, the Same Frill
Before Contraction]


FLAT BRAIDS

Where flat braids are made the rubber threads are passed separately
through different holes in the machine bed and the yarn is braided in
and out between these threads, binding them together side by side so
that they are flat as in a woven fabric. By this method each of the
different covering threads passes from one side of the flat web to
the other, giving them a diagonal direction across the fabric. This
diagonal crossing and recrossing of the covering threads allows for the
introduction of different colors, which produce a plaid-like effect.

In making the flat braid, when the individual rubber threads pass through
the separate holes on the outer part of the bed plate of the machine,
they all gather to one common center after they are through. This causes
the rubber threads, when they are at a very high tension, to draw at a
very acute angle at the edge of the hole, which necessitates running them
at a lower tension than is desirable for economy. It also introduces a
liability to break under the strain. In some mills this is cared for
by passing each thread over a small case hardened steel roller, thus
avoiding the friction at the edge of the hole.


SIZES OF CORDS

The sizes of cords are determined by the Birmingham wire gauge as follows
(Diameters in decimal parts of an inch):

    Size 1   .300
    Size 2   .284
    Size 3   .259
    Size 4   .238
    Size 5   .220
    Size 6   .203
    Size 7   .180
    Size 8   .165

In sizing or measuring the cord, it is passed easily into the gauge, so
that it hugs the sides without crowding. Any cords made heavier than a
No. 1 are designated by fractions of one inch in eighths.

It becomes necessary in making heavy round cords, such as are used by
athletes and in the manufacture of airplanes, to have a very durable
covering over the strands of rubber. Such a covering is put on by using
double deck machines, where above the regular machine there is another
bed plate having a second set of carriers which travel around the braided
fabric coming up from the lower deck. In such cases the inner covering is
generally a cheap coarse material, while the upper deck of carriers braid
the outer covering around it, which is of a higher grade material, often
a highly glazed polished thread.

Machines are made of a variable number of carriers to suit goods of
different character that are required. Provision is made to carry
the rubber beam in hanging brackets underneath the machine, which
are of sufficient strength and firmness to carry the maximum weight
necessary for governing the rubber tension. Above the machine there is a
gear-driven take-up shaft, on which are tension rolls to govern the feed
of the goods when braiding. The speed of these rolls can be regulated by
change gears of various sizes. The goods are then fed on a belt-driven
spool. On the very heavy goods it is necessary to pass them through other
press rolls to prevent any slipping back when feeding from the braiders.


FANCY BRAIDED CORDS

The wide range of goods of this character, covering so many varied uses,
makes it impracticable to particularize on any special construction. In
the making of braids and Vienna cords, the general methods are much the
same as those described for braiding the round cords, except that the
travel of the carriers is different and the strands of rubber are fed
up singly, instead of in a group, so that the carriers may pass in and
out between them. A different machine is required for the various widths
and number of strands of rubber used. Two carriers are required for each
strand of rubber used and one over. For example, an eight strand braid
requires 17 carriers, while a 10 strand requires 21, and so on. The width
of the braid may be further regulated by the contraction of the goods
determined upon and provided for in the take-up; also by the size and
character of the material used for covering.

On account of the diagonal formation of the covering threads when
braiding, it will be seen that variable contraction of the web will
produce variable widths. This is not so with a woven elastic fabric,
inasmuch as the weft lies straight across the web and therefore the same
width is maintained whether it is stretched or otherwise. In braiding,
the threads move both across and lengthwise of the fabric, taking the
place of both warp and filling, therefore increased contraction, no
matter whether it is produced from the use of heavier rubber, or changed
material or take-up, results in greater width, inasmuch as the lengthwise
position of the threads is brought into a new position which is more of a
crosswise formation.

This diagonal lay of the covering threads opens up possibilities for very
effective plaid effects, but this is the limit of color elaboration. A
fancy frill effect may be obtained by the omission of rubber threads at
the outer edges.




CHAPTER XI.

WEAVING THE VAN HEUSEN COLLAR

_Heavy Loom Required—How Long-Sided Effect and Folding Line Are
Obtained—Cloth Construction_


Until recently the soft collar was cut and carved into shape from plain
piece goods. The patented Van Heusen collar has done away with much of
this, for from the loom is produced a fabric properly shaped and formed
for the purpose, and ready to be cut into suitable lengths. It is adapted
to various styles. Clumsy joinings are done away with and a collar is
produced which combines shape, comfort and appearance. Much labor in
collar manufacturing is also eliminated by this method of production.

There have recently been quite a number of factories put on the
production of these goods, and at least one newly organized factory is
devoted exclusively to their manufacture. The main feature in the Van
Heusen collar is that it is woven in such a manner that when it leaves
the loom it is complete in respect of the cloth for the band and outer
part, with provision made for folding, thus doing away with any joining
together of the two parts as formerly.

The formation of a cloth having the novel quality of allowing for a
greater woven length at the outer edge of the collar than at the band,
properly graded throughout so as to meet all the requirements of a collar
in comfort and fit, at the same time providing for the insertion of the
scarf so that it will run easily, and also allowing for the production
of a variety of styles, calls for features in manufacturing that are
different in many respects from the making of a flat fabric.


HEAVY LOOM REQUIRED

The first essential is a loom of sufficient strength and firmness to
withstand the heavy beat of the lay resulting from packing in the
filling, where an aggregate weight of 1,000 pounds for each individual
piece must be carried. The looms which are now being used have from
12 to 16 pieces, so that it will be seen that they must be very rigid
indeed properly to care for the weight carried on the combined pieces,
and maintain uniform picking. In order also to get the requisite shed
opening, the strain on the cams and cam jacks is severe, so that
provision for ample strength at these parts is essential.


CONE-SHAPED TAKE-UP ROLL

The long-sided formation of the cloth is produced by the use of a
cone-shaped take-up roll, as shown in the illustration, which has a slope
of 1 inch in 6 inches. Above this cone-shaped roll is hung a straight
roll, which swings freely to different angles, so as to take care of the
slack delivered to the take-up roll. It will be noticed that one leg of
the swinging roll is longer than the other, thus allowing the straight
roll to set in proper position over the cone.

At first thought it would seem advisable to provide a reverse cone-shaped
take-up roll, as shown in the illustration, which has a slope of 1
[Transcriber’s Note: It’s possible that a line of text was missing here
from the original printing, as the sentence doesn’t make complete sense]
the impracticability of such an arrangement and the straight roll with a
free movement as described is more desirable. It is also necessary, or at
least advisable, to use a slightly tapered roll on the breast beam, over
which the cloth passes.


WOVEN IN THREE WIDTHS

The fabric woven is made in three widths, 4¼ inches, 4¾ inches and 5¼
inches, with the folding line in different positions in each width, so
as to provide for different styles. The great amount of stock employed
over these widths, and the difference in the take-up between one side
of the web and the other, makes it necessary to divide the warps into
sections and carry considerable weight on each, so as to obtain a perfect
clearance in the shed, and pack the filling in uniformly.


THE WEAVE

The weave employed is an ordinary double cloth plain, made with face,
back, binder and gut. It is necessary to have 2 back, 2 binder, 4 face
and 4 gut warps. The accompanying table will show the number of threads
required in each warp, together with the weights carried on each one.

                   WARP DETAILS FOR VAN HEUSEN COLLAR

                       4¼ Inch             4¾ Inch           5¼ Inch

         No. of  Threads     Weight     No. of  Threads   No. of  Threads
         Warps   (60/2)     Carried     Warps   (60/2)    Warps   (60/2)
  Face     2       99      8 lbs. each    2      109        2      119
  Face     2       82      7 lbs. each    2       92        2      104
  Back     1      198     13 lbs. each    1      218        2      238
  Back     1      164     12 lbs. each    1      184        2      208
  Binder   1       99     10 lbs. each    1      109        1      119
  Binder   1       78      7 lbs. each    1       88        1      100
  Gut      2       99      8 lbs. each    2      109        2      119
  Gut      2       78      7 lbs. each    2       88        2      100

It is essential that these warps be properly separated at the back
rolls; Use the first roll for two binder, second for 4 face, third for
2 back and fourth for 4 gut. A 24 dent back reed should be used, which
will allow for 4 face, 4 gut, 2 back and 2 binders in each dent, which
together with the back roll separation of the different warps makes it
convenient to handle the various warp sections and keep the threads
straight and confined to the limitations of space available.

[Illustration: Take-Up Giving Long-Sided Cloth]


METHOD OF REEDING

The front reed used is a 40 dent, with one cord or seven threads to each
dent. In some mills, however, great advantage has been found in using a
26½ dent front reed, drawing 10 threads in one dent and 11 in the next,
splitting between face and back, which makes the stock work much easier,
and relatively increases the output. Any tendency to “rowing” caused by
the dents in this coarser reed are completely hidden in the bleaching
process.

[Illustration: Harness Draft and Weave for Van Heusen Collar]

The folding line between the neck band and the outer fold of the collar
is made by leaving out the binder and gut threads in four cords at the
desired point, only retaining the face and back threads. The position of
the folding line may be varied in each of the three standard widths to
meet the requirements of the manufacturer and according to the style of
the collar desired.

There are 104 picks per inch, counting at the folded line, as there are
more on the short side and less on the long side. High grade 60/2 C. P.
yarn is used throughout. The goods are woven in the gray and bleached
afterwards.




Knitted Narrow Fabrics

By WILLIAM DAVIS, M.A.

_Branch of the Knitting Industry That Presents Interesting Features—Yarn
Testing—Manufacture of Cleaners and Meat Bags, Coverings for Wires and
Cables, Fancy Stitch and Colored Effects for Trimmings—Use of Core Thread
to Give Strength_


Knitting machine builders are remarkable for the new inventions and
adaptations they are constantly bringing out on their machines. Several
important concerns in this line have recently been active in producing
types to deal with the large trade now being done in narrow fabrics for
various purposes.

The ordinary circular knitting machine of small diameter has long been
recognized as a suitable means of making trials of new yarns to judge
how closely they match the original sample, because in knitting there
is not the necessity of elaborate warp preparation and loom mounting.
The machine generally employed for this purpose is an ordinary type of
stocking knitter containing 96 or 112 needles. If the machine is only to
be employed as a sampling machine it is by no means necessary to have a
full stocking machine, because in this work it is never necessary to use
the ribber or dial which is always supplied.

The work of sampling to shade is done in most weaving or spinning
factories and a narrow width plain stitch knitting machine is
satisfactory for the purpose. It is usually quite suitable to work the
machine by hand, owing to the small lengths required and the frequent
changes necessary when testing different colors and qualities.

The latch needle machine is much better for this purpose than the bearded
needle frame owing to the simplicity of loop formation and also owing to
the facility with which small or thick yarns can be made to give good
work on the machine with suitable adjustment of the stitch tensions. It
is also used as a means of producing samples of color, as the various
colors can be introduced rapidly one after the other on this machine.

This type of frame with the needles stationary, and revolving cams and
thread guide has from the first been recognized as the best adapted for
knitting gas mantles from ramie. The yarn is working in long lengths on
a narrow width circular knitting machine using the latch needle and this
fabric is afterwards cut into lengths according to the mantles being
produced. Mantles of different sizes can be obtained by using different
diameters of machines as supplied by machine builders for this purpose.

In most hardware establishments and department stores one sees woven
metal material knitted into fabric on such machines, and intended to be
used for cleaning pots and pans in household work. The wire has a sharp
edge so as to grip the matter to be removed. Knitting the metal material
into looped form enables the product to do its work with the greatest
efficiency.

Another side line of the knitting industry is the production of what
are known as meat bags, with which the carcasses of frozen and ordinary
mutton and beef are covered prior to transport. These bags are usually
made on circular knitting machines of large diameter using the latch
needle, and as the size of the yarn is fine compared to the set of the
needles a gauze-like character is obtained which allows free circulation
of air as well as affording a clean method of handling the meat and
protecting it in the course of transport on ship, train and truck.


PLAIN KNITTED TUBE

Examples are given by the accompanying illustrations of a few products of
the narrow fabric branch of the trade. It will be evident at once what
an interesting field of application is afforded by this division of the
knitting industry. Fig. 1 shows a plain knitted fabric worked in circular
form on a knitting machine using the latch needle in which we have 40
needles in the circumference, so that in this tube, front and back, are
40 stitches shown here in flat form.

[Illustration: Fig. 1 Fig. 2]

[Illustration: Fig. 3 Fig. 4]

It is evident that this tubing can be used for the purpose of covering
wires and cables which slide inside the fabric. It has more elasticity
than woven fabric of similar form and is generally produced in a more
simple and direct manner. It should be pointed out, however, that this
fabric is susceptible to being torn and if it breaks at any point a
little further strain will cause it to unravel in a rapid manner. Thus
it is clear that it cannot be used by itself to any great extent in
cases where great strain or pull will be applied to it. Made in suitable
materials, there is nothing to hinder this tube from serving as lamp
wicks.


INTRODUCTION OF FANCY STITCH

Fig. 2 shows the same fabric with a fancy stitch introduced at one
needle on the cylinder of the knitting machine to produce what is known
as “tuck” work. In this work the needle in question is made to hold its
thread for one course without knocking over its loop, and takes a second
thread on the next course so that two threads are knocked over together,
giving rise to the effect shown in the middle of the illustration.

This effect is produced by inserting a needle at this point with a latch
which is longer than the other needle latches of the machine, with the
result that it does not knock over its stitches with the ordinary needles
unless it receives a specially deep draw down, which it gets every second
course. All the stitches made on this needle are double as compared with
the single stitches in the rest of the tube. In a machine with 20 needles
in the circumference, one needle would be inserted with this extra long
latch to give a tuck stitch right down the tube.

As regards the position of the fabric at which the tuck effect is made
to show, this is entirely a matter of arrangement in folding the tube.
According to the line of folding the tuck effect can be made to appear in
the middle or at the side.

Further examples of this style of narrow fabric are given in Figs. 3 and
4, made on the same diameter of machine. In Fig. 3 the tuck stitch is
made both front and back of the tape; that is, a long latch needle is
inserted in the cylinder every tenth needle so that there are two in the
circumference in place of the single line in Fig. 2. In Fig. 3 the second
vertical line of tucking stitches appears on the back of the fabric
directly under the line shown on the face, and this has the effect of
making the tuck stitch more pronounced.

[Illustration: Fig. 5 Fig. 6]

[Illustration: Fig. 7 Fig. 8]

In Fig. 4 it will be recognized that this idea is further developed by
having two vertical rows of tuck stitches showing on the face of the
tube, and these are supplemented by two others placed directly under them
on the other side of the fabric, thus giving a total of four long latch
needles in the circumference of the machine. To give the proper effect,
the tube as obtained from the machine has to be carefully pressed so as
to show the fancy effect at the correct place, for if the tube gets out
of alignment at any point, this will affect the form of the pattern.


USE FOR TRIMMINGS

In the knitting industry such pieces of tubing folded double are found
extremely useful in trimming garments, particularly in the circular or
cut trade, where so much depends on having articles tastefully ornamented
at a moderate cost. At present the manufacturer has often to buy these
touches of trimmings from the outside. The great advantage of doing the
work on his own premises and on his own machines is that he can install
such a machine at a very moderate cost and place among his ordinary
knitting machines at little or no extra cost for mechanics.


PATTERNS WITH COLORED YARNS

Several other examples are given herewith of the application of this
principle of the latch needle knitting machine for tubular fabrics
suitable for narrow tapes or ribbons. Fig. 5 illustrates a fabric
produced on a machine of still narrower dimensions, having only
12 needles in the circumference of the machine. In this case the
pattern effect is introduced by having several feeds of thread in the
circumference; three different colors are employed and introduced in the
order of one white, one black, and one tan all the way down the fabric,
thus giving rise to a style of pattern which is very suitable for many
purposes of the knitting manufacturer, particularly of outer garments.
There are three yarn feeds round the circumference of this machine and
every revolution of the machine creates three courses in the three colors
named.

It will be noted that this gives rise to a color effect showing at a
decided angle to the right, in place of being exactly horizontal, as
would be approximately the case in a machine of larger diameter. This is
one of the defects of all machines of this character where several feeds
are used. They create a decidedly spiral tendency and the color effects
appear at an angle. In many cases this is no disadvantage, but rather the
reverse, as it takes away the stiffness of the color scheme and produces
attractive effects in twill fashion similar to what can only be created
in woven goods by the aid of the corkscrew weave and an elaborate setting
of the cloth.

Fabrics of the character shown in Fig. 5 are very useful for edging parts
of knitting coats, jumpers or vestings, these edgings giving a suitable
finish for the edges of the garment. In addition to the color feature,
these bands are often made in a tight tension so as to give a rigid cloth
which will strengthen certain parts at which extra pull is applied,
enabling the garment to retain its shape.


KNITTED CORDS

Fig. 6 gives a view of a narrow fabric made on a circular latch needle
knitting machine with only six needles in the cylinder. There are two
feeds, one supplying blue yarn to the needles and the other supplying
green, the pattern being alternate courses of green and blue. The
material is artificial silk and the cord, for it is nothing more, is
employed for threading through certain garments which have a kind of open
trimming through the spaces of which this cord is passed to complete the
drawing together of the part. Very often these drawing together cords
are provided with tassels at their extreme ends to afford a further
ornamental feature.

Fig. 7 gives another variation of this pattern produced on the same
machine where the courses alternate with each other in red and green.
This sample shows the facility with which new color blends can be
produced to match any color of ground garment. One bobbin is simply
replaced with another on the machine, or both may be changed. In this
pattern again a decided tendency is shown for the effect to run in the
direction of the right owing to the tendency to a spiral effect.


USE OF CORE THREAD

In some cases the cord made of the knitted fabric itself is too elastic
and lacks the tensile strength required for certain purposes. In this
event it is an easy matter to arrange that a center core thread be run
into the machine as the fabric is being knitted. The core thread is made
of some strong, non-elastic material and is arranged on a bobbin above
the machine. That material is drawn off its bobbin and passes down the
center of the circle of needles so that it is completely covered by
the knitted fabric. Its use considerably strengthens the cord and makes
it suitable for certain purposes for which it otherwise would not be
satisfactory.

Fig. 8 shows a sample of an actual cord made on the same type of machine
where we have only four needles in the cylinder, these being worked with
two yarn feeds, one black and one white, giving a one and one black
and white effect in the cord. For this style it is necessary to have a
core thread of material which passes into the center of the tube as the
knitting proceeds. This makes the cord bulk larger and causes it to be
quite round in effect.

The smallest cord of this character is produced from one latch needle by
an arrangement such as is supplied with the Union Special sewing machine,
where the latch needle works by power, enters its loop and takes the new
thread, which it draws through the old one, thus making an endless chain
of loops in a very rapid manner. These strings are used as the ground
work of the ornamental edgings produced on this machine.


THE ABBOTT PRESS, NEW YORK