_The New Cookery Books_

  I
  The Soup and Sauce Book




THE

NEW COOKERY BOOKS.

By ELIZABETH DOUGLAS.

Fcap. 8vo, cloth 2s. each.


  I.
  THE SOUP AND SAUCE BOOK.

  II.
  THE CAKE AND BISCUIT BOOK.

  III.
  THE PASTRY AND SWEET BOOK.


London: GRANT RICHARDS.




  The
  Soup and Sauce Book

  By
  Elizabeth Douglas

  [Illustration]

  London
  Grant Richards
  48 Leicester Square




Preface


The English--to their loss--are not a soup-eating nation; and for
the most part, those of us that do care for soups are obstinately
conservative in our tastes. The ordinary restaurant thinks it has
done its duty when ox-tail, mock-turtle and tomato soup have been
included in the bill of fare. Yet the range of soups is very wide, as
the hundred pages of recipes (by no means exhaustive) that follow will
show; and that they may lead some readers to add to the elasticity of
the domestic menu, is the ambition of the compiler. All are good, few
are expensive, and none exotic. I should like it to be understood also
that the directions need not be considered absolutely final. Every
recipe can be made the basis of mild experiment, by slight differences
in the ingredients or quantities. Two final remarks: soup never ought
to be served in large quantities (our tendency in England when we take
it is to take too much); and in the preparation of it the first and
last word is “simmer.”

  E. D.




Table of Contents


  Soups

                                                                   PAGES

  Stocks                                                            7-11

  Clear Soups                                                      16-22

  Thick Soups                                                      24-33

  Thickened Vegetable Soups made with Stock                        35-40

  Vegetable Soups made without Stock                               42-48

  Soups thickened with a Liaison of Cream and Yolk of Egg          51-58

  Vegetable Purées                                                 61-70

  Meat Purées                                                      73-76

  Bisques                                                          78-80

  Fish Soups                                                       82-85

  Broths                                                           87-92

  Broths and Soups for Invalids                                   95-101

  Accessories                                                    104-108


  Sauces

  Hot Sauces for Fish                                            112-116

  Hot Sauces for Roasts, Steaks, Cutlets, etc.                   118-124

  Hot Sauces for Fowls, Ducks, Rabbits, etc.                     126-130

  Hot Sauces for Game, etc.                                      132-135

  Cold Sauces                                                    137-141

  INDEX                                                          143-146




General Remarks on Stock


Stock is the basis of all soups, except those which the French call
_potages maigres_, which have no meat in them. For clear soups the
stock is a good consommé, which must be made absolutely clear, and
without any fat. For thick white soups, chicken or veal stock is used.
For brown thick soups, a dark stock. For purées, white or brown stock,
according to their colour.

Stock will keep for several days--in winter for a week.

A tea-spoonful of Liebig’s Extract of Meat will greatly improve the
flavour of a poor stock.

_Utensils._--Of special utensils for making soup, porcelain-lined
sauce-pans are the most satisfactory, and should always be used if
possible. There is nothing so good or clean as the large French _pot au
feu_, which can be bought in Soho. Earthenware sauce-pans are also good.

It saves trouble when straining soup to have a large deep bowl or jar,
and a colander or wire sieve which fits perfectly into it.

Wooden or silver spoons should be used.

_The fire._--In making stock it is most important to have a steady
fire, which need not be interfered with, so that an even temperature
may be kept. Stock should be allowed to come slowly to the boil, and
then be set back to simmer so gently that bubbles rise from one side
only of the pot.

_To prepare fresh meat for stock._--Look over the meat carefully. Cut
away any part which is in the slightest degree tainted. Wipe the meat
over with a clean cloth that has been dipped in cold water and wrung
out. Cut the meat off the bones. Cut it into small pieces. Break the
bones. If there is any marrow, take it out and spread it on the bottom
of the pot that is to be used.

_Vegetables._--In hot weather it is better to make stock without
vegetables, as they often turn it sour.

See that all vegetables used are perfectly clean. Cut them in two or
three pieces if to be used for flavouring stock. If they are to be
served with the soup, cut them regularly and carefully to the size
required, and do not cook them in the soup for more than half-an-hour,
or their flavour will be impaired.

Vegetables should be added in the proportion of about one carrot, one
onion (or leek), half a turnip, a piece of celery, to every quart of
stock. In the onion can be stuck a clove.

_Herbs._--To flavour stock with herbs, it is best to use a _bouquet_
(_i.e._ a small bunch of mixed herbs, a sprig or leaf each of sage,
thyme, marjoram bay and parsley). This can be easily taken out of
the soups before serving. If ground herbs are used, add about a
tea-spoonful of mixed herbs to every quart of stock.

_Seasoning._--It is not necessary to season the original stock. In
making it into different soups, the seasoning is of course a matter
of taste; but, roughly speaking, to each quart may be put one small
tea-spoonful of salt, two pepper-corns, or half a salt-spoon of ground
pepper, and one clove.

_To remove fat from stock._--Every particle of fat must be removed from
the stock from which clear soups are to be made. With stock which is
to be thickened it is not so necessary to be particular, as the flour
used for the purpose will absorb a good deal of fat. With broths, which
should be particularly nourishing, it is merely a matter of taste how
much fat is removed.

To remove fat from stock it is best to let it first become quite cold.
The fat will then become quite solid, and can easily be removed with
a knife. To remove the small particles which may still be left, dip a
cloth in hot water, wring it out, and pass it over the stock. It will
absorb all the fat.

If there is not time to allow the stock to cool first, a great deal of
fat can be absorbed by tissue paper, which should be laid over it. Or
it can be strained two or three times through cloths which have been
put in very cold water and wrung out.

_To clarify stock for clear soups._--The addition of a little cold
water to boiling stock will cause the scum to rise quickly. This can
be done several times, and if thoroughly strained the stock should be
clear.

To clarify soup more effectually, although the flavour is not improved
by doing so, the white and shell of an egg are used. To every quart of
stock (and it must be cold) add the white and broken shell of an egg.
Beat together. Put in the pot, stir continually until hot. Then let it
boil, untouched, for about ten minutes. Set back on the oven, throw in
half a cup of cold water, and allow it to stand for ten minutes. Place
a colander over the bowl, and when you are ready to strain the soup,
put over the colander a napkin which has been dipped in very hot water
and then wrung out. Let it drain through slowly, without any pressure,
shifting the napkin gently if any part becomes clogged.

_Straining._--It is well, as I have said, to have a large, deep bowl,
with a colander or strainer that fits tightly into it. Put a napkin or
muslin over the colander, and take the soup out of the sauce-pan with
a cup or ladle. Let it drain about a quarter of an hour without any
pressure.

The napkins and muslin used for straining may be old, but must be fine
and absolutely clean and sweet.




Stocks


                      PAGE

  Brown Soup Stock       7

  Common Stock           7

  Clear Brown Stock      8

  Consommé               9

  Chicken Stock          9

  Veal Stock            10

  Economical Stock      10


Common Stock

  1 lb. shin of beef
  1 quart cold water
  Two or three vegetables

Cut the meat up into small pieces. Put it in a sauce-pan, and add the
water. Allow it to stand for half-an-hour. Then put it on the fire. Let
it come to the boil slowly. Simmer for two hours. Strain.


Brown Soup Stock

  3 lbs. shin of beef
  1 lb. bones
  3 quarts cold water
  2 carrots, 1 turnip
  2 stalks of celery
  3 onions
  3 cloves
  Bouquet of herbs

Cut the meat into small pieces. Break the bones. Put three ounces of
butter in a sauce-pan. When melted, add to it one-third of the meat and
the onions sliced. Stew gently until a rich brown. Put with the rest of
the meat, bones, etc., in a sauce-pan. Cover with water. Bring to the
boil. Simmer four hours. Strain.


Clear Brown Stock

  2 lbs. shin of beef
  1 lb. knuckle of veal
  The carcase and bones of a fowl
  3 pints of water
  1 carrot
  1 onion with a clove stuck in it
  1 stick of celery
  1 piece of parsley
  A small bouquet of herbs

Put the bones at the bottom of a sauce-pan. Place the meat, which
should be cut up in small pieces, upon them. Cover with cold water.
Leave the sauce-pan uncovered. Bring to the boil very slowly. When it
boils throw in a half cup of cold water. (This will cause the scum
to rise.) Skim. Bring to the boil again. Throw in a little more cold
water. Skim. Bring to the boil. Add the vegetables. Set back on the
fire, and allow it to simmer gently for three or four hours.

Strain through a napkin into a bowl and allow it to cool.

If required the soup can be further clarified (p. 4).


Consommé

  1 lb. shin of beef
  1 lb. veal
  The bones and carcases of fowls or game
  2 quarts of stock
  Vegetables
  The white of an egg

Cut away all fat from the meat. Chop it up finely. Put the white of
an egg in a basin. Add to it the chopped meat. Mix them well together
with a silver spoon. Stir in a glass of cold water. Put the meat into a
large sauce-pan. Add vegetables, the bones and carcases of birds. Cover
with two quarts of good stock. Bring to the boil, stirring occasionally
to prevent the meat from sticking to the sauce-pan.

When it boils, set back to simmer gently for three hours. Dip a napkin
in hot water, wring it out, and strain the stock through it into a
basin.


Chicken Stock

  1 old fowl
  1 quart water
  1 carrot
  1 stick of celery
  1 small onion

Put the fowl and vegetables into a stew-pan, adding the bones or
carcase of another fowl if possible. Cover with cold water, or weak
clear stock. Let it boil up slowly and simmer for three hours. Skim.
Pass the stock through a napkin, and set aside to cool.


Veal Stock

  1 lb. knuckle of veal
  Chicken bones or carcases
  1 quart of water
  Vegetables
  1 blade of mace
  1 clove

Cut up the veal. Break the bones. Add vegetables and spice. Cover with
the water. Bring slowly to the boil. Simmer for two or three hours.
Strain.


Economical Stock for thick Soups, Purées, etc.

An excellent although not very clear stock can be made from odds and
ends of cooked meat and bones. For this purpose there should be an
enamelled pot with a lightly fitting lid, and it should practically be
kept in use continually.

Spread the bottom of the pot with butter, or marrow. Pack in pieces of
meat, bone, gristle, the carcases of birds, two or three vegetables cut
up in small pieces, two cloves, and a bouquet of herbs.

Cover the meat, etc., with cold water. Put on the lid. Heat slowly, and
when it boils set back to simmer for four or five hours.

In preparing meat for this stock, look it over carefully; reject any
piece which is not perfectly good, also all stuffing, skin, smoked or
burnt pieces. A little beef fat can always be retained, but mutton fat
should not be used as it is rank in flavour. Scrape the meat off the
bones, and break the bones in small pieces.

A slice or two of lean ham, the gravy saved from any kind of roast, a
little fresh meat finely chopped will greatly improve this stock.


General Remarks on Soups

_Utensils and Fire._--The remarks on pages 1 and 2 concerning the
utensils and fire for making stock, apply also to the preparation of
soups from stock.

_To thicken soups with flour only._--Mix flour or cornflour with a
little cold water, milk or stock until perfectly smooth. Add more
water or milk. Strain. Pour slowly into the soup, which should be
nearly boiling. Let it come to a boil. Continue boiling for ten
minutes (stirring all the time), or it will taste of flour. About one
table-spoon of flour should be used to thicken each quart of stock.

_To thicken soups with butter and flour (roux)._--Melt some butter.
Skim it till quite clear. Pour it into an earthenware sauce-pan, and
add to it its weight in flour. Work with a wooden spoon until perfectly
smooth. Stir over a fire for a few minutes. Then put it in a moderate
oven. Stir occasionally, and be very particular that it does not colour
or burn. It should be left in the oven from thirty to forty-five
minutes. This thickening, which is called white roux, is used for
white soups. Brown roux for brown soups is made in the same way, but
is left in the oven until slightly coloured. It will keep for some time.

When adding roux to soups it is best first to melt it in a small
sauce-pan, to thin it with a little hot stock, and then to add it
gradually to the soups.

If the roux has not been prepared beforehand, the quantity required can
be made in a short time by cooking the flour and butter together in a
sauce-pan for five minutes for white roux or longer for brown roux. It
should be stirred all the time.

A heaping table-spoon (or more) of roux should be added to every quart
of soup to be thickened.

_Cornflour and roux._--The advantage of roux over cornflour is that the
flour used in preparing the roux having been already cooked, it is not
necessary to continue boiling the soups to which it is added, whereas
cornflour being raw, the soups thickened by it must be boiled for some
little time.

_To colour soups._--The colour of soups can be deepened by using
caramel colouring, or glaze (see next page) (which will also add to
their flavour).

_Caramel colouring._--Put half a pound of brown or white sugar in
an iron sauce-pan, with a table-spoonful of water. Stir over a very
gentle fire until it turns a deep, rich brown colour. Add half a pint
of boiling water. Let it simmer very gently for twenty minutes. Allow
it to get cold. Put it into bottles and cork. This makes an excellent
and tasteless colouring, but it must be carefully made. The rich brown
colour comes from slow and gentle cooking. If it is burnt and black it
is useless.

Add to the soup a few minutes only before serving.

_Glaze._--Glaze is made by boiling down good stock until it is of a
very thick and gluey consistency. Put a quart of rich stock into a
sauce-pan over a good fire. Leave it uncovered, and boil it until it is
reduced to half a pint. Let it cool. Put it in a jar or bottle. Cover
closely, and keep in a cool place. This will keep for two or three
weeks.

_Adding vegetables and meat to soups._--Whenever vegetables or meats
have to be passed through a sieve or tammy, it will be found easier to
do so if the pulp is kept continually well moistened with stock or milk
(according to the soup which is being made).

_Wine and catsup._--Wine and catsup should always be added as late as
possible, as they lose in flavour by being boiled.




Clear Soups


                               PAGE

  Brunoise                       16

  Consommé with poached eggs     16

  Croûte au pot                  17

  ” ” gratinée                   18

  Game Soup                      18

  Imperial Soup                  19

  Julienne                       20

  Macaroni                       20

  Spring Soup                    21

  Vermicelli                     22

  Clear Soups with quenelles     22


Brunoise

  3 pints strong consommé
  1 carrot
  1 turnip
  1 leek
  1 onion
  1 stick of celery
  1 small tea-cupful freshly cooked peas
     ”      ”          ”       ”    asparagus points
     ”      ”          ”       ”    French beans

Cut the carrot, turnip, leek, onion and celery into small dice-shaped
pieces, using the red outer part of the carrot only. Fry them in butter
until a light brown. Add them to the consommé, and after it has come to
the boil, simmer gently until the vegetables are perfectly tender. Skim
from time to time. Season. Add the cooked peas, beans and asparagus
points. The beans should be cut into diamond-shaped pieces.


Consommé with poached eggs

  6 eggs
  1 quart consommé

Break the eggs carefully into boiling water, taking care that they do
not run into each other. Cook until firmly set, but not hard. Take
them out, put them on a dish, and trim neatly. Put them in a soup
tureen and gently pour over them the hot consommé. Finely chopped and
cooked vegetables may be added to the consommé.


Croûte au pot

  1 quart clear brown stock
  ¹⁄₄ of a white cabbage
  1 carrot
  ¹⁄₂ a turnip
  A little celery
  2 thin slices of bread

Cut the celery, carrot and turnip into small equal pieces. Cut up the
heart of the cabbage, and cook separately in salted water. Put the
vegetables in a sauce-pan. Pour the stock over them. Simmer until
tender. Add the cabbage. Season. Simmer for a few minutes. Toast the
bread. Cut it into several pieces. Put them in a soup tureen. Pour the
vegetables and stock over them. Serve. Grated parmesan can be served
with this soup.


Croûte au pot gratinée

  1 quart clear brown stock
  1 tea-cup of mixed cooked vegetables cut in small pieces
  4 small dinner rolls

Take out the crumb from the inside of three or four rolls. Put the
crusts in an earthenware sauce-pan, and cover with a little clear brown
stock. Let them simmer over a gentle fire until they have absorbed all
the stock. Then put them in the oven until they are crisp, being very
careful that they do not burn. Place them in a soup tureen with the
cooked vegetables. Pour the well-seasoned boiling stock over them.


Game Soup

  1 calf’s foot
  1 or 2 birds (game), or the carcases and bones of several
  1 slice lean ham
  2 carrots
  1 onion
  1 piece of celery
  1 sprig parsley
  1 bay leaf
  Thyme
  2 cloves
  1 blade of mace
  2 quarts of water
  1 glass of sherry

Clean and cut up the calf’s foot. Put in a stew-pan with one or two
whole birds (game), or the carcases and bones of several, a small
piece of lean ham, the vegetables, herbs, etc. Cover with 2 quarts of
water. Bring to the boil. Skim. Simmer for three hours. Season. Strain.
When cold clarify with white of egg (p. 4). Before serving add a glass
of sherry, and two dozen small quenelles of game (p. 105).


Imperial Soup

  1 quart clear consommé


_For Custard_

  1 gill consommé
  4 yolks of eggs
  Nutmeg
  Salt

Beat the yolks in a basin. Add a little salt and nutmeg. Stir in the
consommé. Strain through a fine hair sieve into a shallow plain mould.
Put it into a pan of boiling water, and steam until it sets. Turn out
carefully on to a wet napkin. Cut into fancy or square shapes. Half of
the mixture can, if wished, be coloured green with spinach colouring
(p. 104). Place the custards carefully in a tureen, and pour the hot
consommé over them.


Julienne

  2 large carrots
  1 turnip
  1 piece of celery
  1 small onion
  ¹⁄₄ white cabbage
  1 lettuce
  A little sorrel
  1 quart consommé
  2 ozs. butter

Cut all the vegetables into thin shreds of equal length (about one
inch). Use the red outer part of the carrots only, and the hearts of
the lettuce and cabbage. Wash the sorrel and cabbage separately, and
set aside. Put two ounces of butter and a salt-spoon of powdered sugar
in a sauce-pan, add to it all the vegetables except the cabbage and
sorrel. Let them turn a fine yellow, but be careful not to burn. Add
the consommé. Bring to the boil. Drain. Season. Set back to simmer
until the vegetables are tender. Then add the cabbage and sorrel, a
leaf of tarragon and chervil. Simmer another ten minutes and serve.


Macaroni Soup

  1 quart stock
  ¹⁄₂ pint macaroni

Cook the macaroni in boiling salted water half-an-hour. Drain. Pour
cold water through the macaroni to prevent its sticking together. Put
the sticks on a board and cut it, either very finely to make rings, or
in half-inch pieces. Bring stock to the boil. Add the macaroni. Season.


Spring Soup

  2 carrots
  1 turnip
  ¹⁄₂ a head of celery
  10 small onions
  1 tea-cup of cauliflower cut into little branches
  Heart of a small white cabbage-lettuce
  A small handful of sorrel
  A leaf of chervil and of tarragon
  ¹⁄₄ pint peas
  ¹⁄₄ pint asparagus points
  ¹⁄₄ pint croûtons
  1 quart consommé

Cut the carrots and turnip into small rounds or olive-shaped pieces.
Add them, with the chopped up celery, whole onions and cauliflower, to
a quart of consommé or chicken stock. Bring it to the boil. Simmer for
half-an-hour. Stamp the sorrel and lettuce into small round pieces. Add
them, with a leaf of chervil and of tarragon and a tea-spoon of sugar,
to the soup. When all the vegetables are tender add a quarter of a pint
of young peas and the same quantity of asparagus heads both freshly
cooked. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).


Vermicelli

  ¹⁄₄ lb. vermicelli
  1 quart consommé

Break up the vermicelli in small pieces. Put it in cold water. Bring it
to the boil, and boil it for four minutes. Drain it. Pour cold water
through it. Put it in a sauce-pan with the consommé, which should be
very clear, strong and well seasoned. Let it boil up. Skim. Simmer
until the vermicelli is tender.

Serve with grated parmesan in a separate dish.


Other Clear Soups

Clear soups can also be served with Italian paste, forcemeat balls,
quenelles, rice, etc. For recipes for these see pages 103-108.




Thick Soups


                           PAGE

  Brown Soup                 24

  Cream of Pearl Barley      25

  Cream of Rice              25

  Giblet Soup                26

  Hare Soup                  27

  Left-over Soup             28

  Mock-Turtle                29

  Mulligatawny               30

  Ox-tail                    31

  Venison Soup               33


Brown Soup

  The water in which a joint of mutton has been boiled
  1 carrot
  1 onion
  1 turnip
  1 head of celery
  ¹⁄₂ pint cooked young peas
  Brown roux
  1 ounce of butter
  1 tea-spoonful Liebig’s Extract of Meat
  1 lump sugar

Boil down the water to one quart. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat
carefully. Cut the vegetables into small equal pieces. Fry them a rich
brown in one ounce of butter. Put the stock on the fire again. Add
the vegetables and sugar. Simmer until they are tender. Add the peas.
Simmer for quarter of an hour. Thicken with brown roux (see p. 12).
Simmer another fifteen minutes. A few minutes before serving add a
little caramel colouring (see p. 13) and the Liebig’s Extract.


Cream of Pearl Barley

  ¹⁄₂ lb. pearl barley
  1 quart chicken stock
  1 gill cream

Wash the barley thoroughly. Throw it into boiling water and let it
boil quickly for ten minutes. Drain it. Pour cold water through it to
separate the barley. Put the stock in a sauce-pan. Add the barley to
it. Simmer for four hours--or until the barley is very tender. Set
aside a little of the barley to add whole to the stock. Put the rest
through a tammy. Add it to the stock with the whole barley. Season.
Scald a gill of cream. Add to the soup.

If preferred the barley may be cooked separately in water.


Cream of Rice

  ¹⁄₄ lb. Carolina rice
  1 quart chicken stock
  1 gill cream
  1 tea-spoon of butter

Wash the rice and boil it several minutes in water. Drain. Add it to
the stock. Simmer until the rice is tender. Rub through a tammy. Just
before serving mix with the soup a gill of cream and a tea-spoonful of
butter.

A little whole rice which has been boiled in chicken broth can be
added to the soup, or it can be served with a dozen small quenelles of
chicken (see p. 105).


Giblet Soup

  1 set of giblets
  1 whole onion
  1 chopped onion
  Grated rind of the third of a lemon
  A few drops of lemon juice
  1 oz. butter
  1 table-spoon flour
  1 glass white wine
  Small bouquet of herbs
  2 cloves
  1 quart of stock

Scald and cut in pieces a set of giblets. Put in a sauce-pan with
a quart of good stock, a whole onion stuck with two cloves and the
lemon rind. Simmer until the giblets are very tender. Strain off the
stock. Make a brown roux of the butter and flour (see p. 12). Add it
to the stock with the herbs and an onion chopped fine. Boil hard for
ten minutes. Strain through a fine sieve. Add a glass of white wine.
Season with cayenne, salt, and a few drops of lemon juice.


Hare Soup

  A large fresh hare
  2 onions
  1 carrot
  2 pieces of celery
  Bouquet of herbs
  4 cloves
  4 pepper-corns
  Cayenne
  1 glass of port
  2 quarts of cold water

Cut a perfectly fresh hare into pieces, being careful to save all the
blood. Let the pieces soak in two quarts of cold water in a stew-pan
for an hour. Add the blood, and set on the fire. Bring to the boil,
stirring and skimming frequently. Add the vegetables, herbs, spices
and pepper-corns. Simmer gently for two or three hours. Strain off the
liquid. Cut the meat from the bones. Set aside some of the best to
be cut into small pieces. Pound the rest in a mortar and put through
a tammy (see p. 60). Return to the sauce-pan with the stock. When it
boils season highly, add a glass of port wine, and the small pieces of
hare which have been reserved. Serve. Force-meat balls (see p. 104) may
be added also.


Left-over Soup

  Bones and trimmings of a 6 lb. roast of beef
  1 mutton chop
  ¹⁄₂ lb. fresh gravy beef
  2 quarts cold water
  2 cloves
  2 pepper-corns
  1 baked apple
  ¹⁄₂ cup of cold boiled onions
  2 pieces of celery
  Bouquet of herbs
  1 cup cooked tomato, or 1 cup boiled macaroni

Cut up the meat. Break the bones. Put in a stew-pan with the cold
water, vegetables, spices and apple. Bring to the boil. Simmer for two
or three hours. Strain. Set aside to cool. Remove fat. When required
heat to boiling point. Season. Add the tomato or macaroni.


Mock-Turtle

  1 calf’s head
  1 old fowl (partly roasted)
  1 knuckle of veal
  3 slices raw ham
  2 quarts of stock
  Carrots, celery, green onions
  ¹⁄₂ lb. mushrooms
  4 shallots
  A large bouquet of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, sweet basil and marjoram
  8 cloves
  2 blades of mace
  ¹⁄₂ pint sherry
  Tea-spoonful lemon juice
  White roux

Scald a calf’s head. Bone it. (Do this by making a sharp incision down
to the bone from the back of the head to the nose and peeling back the
flesh on each side with a knife.) Put the head in a sauce-pan. Cover it
with cold water. Boil it for quarter of an hour, skimming from time to
time. Then take it out and put it in a basin full of cold water.

Butter the bottom of a large stock-pot. Put in it an old fowl partly
roasted (of which the breast is kept back for forcemeat balls), a
knuckle of veal, the ham, and two quarts of good stock. Boil quickly
until the stock is reduced to one pint. Set back to simmer gently for
half-an-hour. Fill up the stock-pot with water.

Take the head out of the water. Pare away any rough parts in the mouth.
Put in the stock-pot. Bring to the boil. Skim thoroughly. Add the
vegetables, spices and bouquet. Simmer gently until the head is tender.
Remove the head. Strain the broth. When the meat is cool cut it up into
small squares (reserving a little for forcemeat balls).

Thicken the stock with light-coloured roux (p. 12). Let it boil up.
Skim off the butter that comes to the surface. Add half a pint of
sherry. Season with cayenne. Add a tea-spoonful of lemon juice, and
the pieces of calf’s head. Boil ten minutes. Add two or three dozen
forcemeat balls (see p. 104).


Mulligatawny

  2 chickens (or 2 rabbits)
  2 quarts veal stock
  2 carrots
  4 onions
  1 head of celery and
  2 pieces of celery
  A bouquet of herbs and parsley
  2 table-spoons flour
  1 table-spoon curry powder
  1   ”           ”   paste
  ¹⁄₂ lb. Patna rice
  ¹⁄₄ lb. butter

Cut up the chickens or rabbits into small pieces. Put them in a
sauce-pan with a quart of good veal stock and a carrot, turnip, apple,
parsley, and a bouquet of herbs. Bring to the boil and simmer gently
until the meat is tender, stirring from time to time. Strain off the
stock. Cut the meat from the bones, and set aside to cool.

Fry three onions, a carrot, and a head of celery (all finely sliced)
very slowly in a quarter of a pound of butter until they are a rich
golden brown. Add two table-spoons of flour. Stir in till smooth. Add
a table-spoon of curry powder, and the same quantity of curry paste.
Season with cayenne and salt. Add the vegetables to the stock, and add
more veal stock if required. Let it boil up. Skim. Simmer half-an-hour
very gently. Put through a tammy. Pour over the meat of the chickens or
rabbits (which should be cut into neat pieces). Heat gently, and simmer
for another ten minutes. If desired half a pint of scalded cream can be
added just before serving. Serve with plain boiled Patna rice (see p.
106).


Ox-tail Soup

  1 ox tail
  2 quarts water or stock
  1 onion
  2 carrots
  2 ozs. butter
  1 head of celery
  2 cloves
  2 pepper-corns
  Blade of mace
  A lump of sugar
  ¹⁄₂ a pint of mixed parboiled vegetables

Wash the ox tail and cut it up into joints. Lay these in cold water
for two hours. Slice finely a large onion and two carrots. Melt two
ounces of butter in a sauce-pan and fry the onion and carrots in it.
When they are slightly browned add the ox tail. Brown it a little. Put
the vegetables and ox tail in a stock-pot. Add the celery finely cut
up. Cover with two quarts of water or beef stock. Add the spice and
seasoning. Bring to the boil. Skim thoroughly. Simmer until the meat
separates from the bone and the gristle is quite soft. Strain through a
napkin.

Cut the best of the meat into pieces. Put them into a stew-pan. Add the
strained stock, half a pint of mixed parboiled vegetables cut in small
rounds, or olive-shaped, a lump of sugar and more pepper if required.
Heat and simmer until vegetables are tender.

The vegetables should be shaped with a vegetable cutter, and are best
parboiled in a little stock.

Ox-tail soup may be thickened by a purée of carrots, turnips, peas or
lentils. The purée is made by boiling whichever vegetable is required
until very tender, and pressing it through a sieve or tammy. Add it to
the strained stock and mix well.


Venison Soup

  1¹⁄₂ lbs. venison
  ¹⁄₂ lb. salt pork or raw ham
  1 onion
  ¹⁄₂ a head of celery
  1 blade of mace
  6 pepper-corns
  Brown roux
  1 table-spoon Worcester sauce
  1   ”         Mushroom ketchup
  1 glass Madeira or brown sherry

Cut up the meat and vegetables. Put them in a stew-pan. Add just enough
water to cover them. Stew them slowly, with the lid on, for an hour.
Add nearly a quart of boiling water, the mace and pepper-corns. Simmer
for two hours. Strain. Season. Thicken with brown roux (one table-spoon
butter, one table-spoon flour, see p. 12). Add the Worcester sauce,
mushroom ketchup, and wine.




Thickened Vegetable Soups made with Stock


                      PAGE

  Artichoke Soup        35

  Asparagus Soup        35

  Cauliflower Soup      36

  Celery Soup           36

  Chestnut Soup         37

  Green Pea Soup        37

  Mushroom Soup         38

  Polish Soup           39

  Tomato Soup           39


Artichoke Soup

  4 artichokes
  2 ozs. butter
  1 quart white stock
  1 cup cream or milk
  1 tea-spoon sugar

Wash and peel the artichokes. Cut them in slices. Put the butter in
a sauce-pan. Melt it. Add the artichokes. Allow them to simmer until
tender, but be careful not to let them brown. Add the boiling stock and
a tea-spoon of sugar. Simmer for half-an-hour. Rub through a tammy.
Heat again. Season. At the last minute add a cup of boiling cream or
milk.


Asparagus Soup

  1 lb. veal
  1 quart water
  1 large bundle of asparagus
  1 table-spoon flour
  1 gill of cream

Cut off the stalks of the asparagus. Put them in a stew-pan with the
veal (which should be cut up) and water. Bring to the boil. Skim.
Simmer for three hours. Strain off the broth. Add the asparagus
heads. Season. Boil for twenty minutes. Thicken with a table-spoon of
cornflour rubbed smooth in a gill of cream. Boil for ten minutes. Serve
with croûtons (see p. 103).


Cauliflower Soup

  1 quart white stock
  1 table-spoon chopped onion
  1 pint milk or cream
  1 boiled cauliflower

Boil the milk or cream with the onion. Heat the stock. Rub half of the
cauliflower through a sieve. Add it to the stock. Add the boiling milk
(which has been strained off the onions). Season. Add table-spoonful
butter in small pieces, and the rest of the cauliflower cut in small
branches.

If wished the soup can be slightly thickened with a table-spoon of
white roux. (See p. 12).


Celery Soup

  1 quart white stock
  4 heads of celery
  2 table-spoons white roux
  1 gill cream

Put three heads of celery into the stock, and boil until very tender.
Strain off the soup, and return to the sauce-pan. Add the fourth head
of celery finely cut. Simmer till tender. Thicken with the white roux.
Scald a gill of cream and add to the soup. Season and serve.


Chestnut Soup

  2 lbs. chestnuts
  1 pint consommé
  1 pint cream

Boil the chestnuts until tender. Remove shells and peel them whole.
Save ten whole, rub all the rest through a fine sieve.

Heat the consommé. Scald the cream. Mix together. Season with salt and
pepper. Add the chestnuts. Stir until well mixed, but do not allow the
soup to boil. Just before serving cut up the ten chestnuts into small
pieces and add to the soup.


Green Pea Soup

  1 quart water
  1 lb. shin of beef
  1 quart young green peas
  1 table-spoon flour
  1 sprig of mint

Wash and boil the empty pea-pods, with a piece of mint, in a quart
of salted water for an hour. Skim. Strain off the pods. Add them to
the meat (cut in small pieces) in a sauce-pan. Simmer gently for an
hour-and-a-half. Strain off the stock. Season. Add the shelled peas to
it. Boil gently for twenty minutes. Add the flour mixed smooth with a
little of the stock, and the parsley. Boil for ten minutes.


Mushroom Soup

  1 lb. fresh small mushrooms
  1 pint rich milk or cream
  1 pint consommé
  1 table-spoon flour
  1 table-spoon butter

Set aside twelve mushrooms. Cut them in half. Cook separately. Chop the
rest into small pieces and fry in the butter, adding a table-spoonful
of flour and mixing until perfectly smooth. Put in a stew-pan and add
the scalded milk or cream, and the boiling consommé. Simmer for quarter
of an hour. Season. Rub through a sieve. Strain through muslin. Heat
again very gently. Add the cooked mushrooms, and do not allow it to
boil.


Polish Soup

  1 beet-root
  2 onions
  1 quart brown stock
  1 glass red wine
  1 cup thick cream

Cut up the beet-root and onions in small pieces. Put them in a
sauce-pan, and pour over them the stock, which should be very
rich and of a good dark colour. Bring to a boil and simmer for an
hour-and-a-half. Put through a tammy. Put back on the fire, add the
wine. Season with salt, pepper and cayenne. Heat well, but do not allow
it to boil. Just before serving add the cream, which should be scalded.
Or the cream may be served separately, in which case it should be cold.


Tomato Soup

  1 quart of stock
  1 tea-spoonful sugar
  ¹⁄₂ a tin of tomatoes
  1 onion
  1 tea-spoonful butter

Slice the onion. Fry it in the butter. Add it to the tomatoes. Heat
them in a sauce-pan, and allow them to simmer for fifteen minutes.
Rub through a sieve. Put to the stock. Season and add a lump of sugar.
Heat. Serve with croûtons.


Vegetable Soups made without Stock

                      PAGE

  Artichoke Soup        42

  Carrot Soup           42

  Celery Cream          43

  Mock Bisque           44

  Portuguese Soup       44

  Potato Cream          45

  Potato Soup           46

  Sorrel Soup           46

  Summer Soup           47

  Tomato Soup           47


Artichoke Soup

  4 artichokes
  1 pint water
  1 pint milk
  1 onion

Boil the artichokes in a pint of water. Mash them. Press them through a
sieve, and mix them again with the water in which they were boiled.

Boil an onion in the milk. Remove the onion. Add the milk to the
artichokes. Bring to the boil. Season. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).


Carrot Soup

  3 large carrots
  1 onion
  1 quart cold water
  2 ozs. of butter
  ¹⁄₂ a pint milk or cream
  1 table-spoon flour
  1 tea-spoon powdered sugar

Scrape the carrots and slice them finely, rejecting the hard yellow
inside. Put them in a sauce-pan with a quart of cold water. Simmer
gently for three quarters of an hour. Slice the onion, and fry it a
light brown in the butter. Add it to the carrots, and put all through a
fine sieve. Put the purée into a sauce-pan with the water in which the
carrots were cooked. Thicken with the flour. Stir continually. Allow it
to boil for five minutes. Season. Add a tea-spoonful powdered sugar.
Just before serving add half a pint of scalded milk or cream.


Celery Cream

  1 head celery
  1 pint water
  1 pint milk or cream
  1 table-spoon chopped onion
  2 table-spoons white roux

Wash the celery. Cut it into small pieces. Throw it into one pint
boiling salted water. Boil till very tender. Put through a sieve, and
return to the water in which it was cooked. Boil the milk with the
onion. Strain. Add the milk to the celery. Bring to the boil again.
Stir in the white roux (p. 12). Season. Boil five minutes. Strain into
soup tureen.


Mock Bisque

  ¹⁄₂ tin of tomatoes
  1 quart milk
  2 ozs. butter
  1 table-spoon white roux
  ¹⁄₂ salt-spoon carbonate of soda

Stew the tomatoes until very soft. Add the carbonate of soda and sugar.
Put through a fine sieve. Set in a small sauce-pan on the fire to keep
hot. Heat the milk, thicken it with white roux (flour and butter, see
p. 12). Let it boil a few minutes, stirring continually. Season. Add
the tomatoes and serve immediately. (The tomatoes should not be added
until actually ready to serve.)


Portuguese Soup

  3 tomatoes
  1 Spanish onion
  A small bunch of herbs
  2 large slices of stale bread
  1 oz. grated cheese (parmesan)
  1 quart hot water
  1 oz. butter

Cut up the tomatoes and onions. Fry a light brown in butter. Put them
in a stew-pan and cover with a quart of hot water. Let it boil, and
then stand aside to simmer for half-an-hour. Strain off the liquid. Rub
the vegetables through a coarse sieve. Return to the fire, season, and
make very hot. Break up the bread and put it in the bottom of a hot
soup tureen. Sprinkle a little of the grated cheese upon it. Pour the
soup over it. Sprinkle the rest of the cheese on the soup.


Potato Cream

  1 pint milk
  1 gill cream
  2 potatoes
  1 onion
  1 tea-cup cooked French beans
  1 dessert-spoonful chopped cooked carrot
  1 tea-spoon Liebig’s extract
  1 small table-spoon white roux

Boil the potatoes and onion. Put them through a sieve. Add them to the
milk, which should be boiling. Add the white roux (see p. 12), the
Liebig (diluted with a little water) and seasoning. Stir for a minute
or two. Cut the French beans into small pieces. Add them and the very
finely chopped carrot to the soup. Stir in the scalded cream.


Potato Soup

  3 potatoes
  1 quart milk
  1 table-spoon chopped onion
  A little celery or ¹⁄₂ a tea-spoon celery salt
  1 table-spoon white roux
  1 table-spoon chopped parsley

Peel the potatoes. Soak them in cold water for half-an-hour. Cook them
in boiling water until soft. Drain off the water. Put the potatoes
through a sieve. Boil the milk with the onion and celery (or celery
salt). Strain. Add to the potatoes. Stir in the white roux (see p. 12).
Season. Boil for five minutes. Add the parsley.


Sorrel Soup

  1 handful of sorrel
  1 pint of water
  1 tea-cup cream or milk
  Bread

Wash and prepare a handful of sorrel. Put it in a sauce-pan with the
butter and a pint of water. Season. Boil gently for a quarter of an
hour. Add a little cream or milk. Put several very thin slices of bread
in the soup tureen, and pour the soup over them.

Rice or tapioca can be added to the soup.


Summer Soup

  1 cucumber
  2 cabbage lettuces
  1 onion
  Small handful of spinach
  A piece of mint
  A pint of shelled peas
  2 ozs. butter
  A slice of ham

Wash the lettuces and cut them up. Cut up the cucumber and onion.
Put them with half a pint of peas, the mint, ham and butter into a
stew-pan. Cover with a little more than a quart of cold water. Bring to
a boil, and then simmer gently for three hours. Strain off the liquid.
Pass the vegetables through a sieve. Add to the liquid. Set on the fire
again. Season. Add half a pint of green peas which have already been
boiled.


Tomato Soup

  1 tin of tomatoes
  1 pint boiling water
  1 table-spoon sugar
  4 cloves
  2 pepper-corns
  1 table-spoon butter
  1      ”      flour
  1      ”      chopped onion
  1      ”         ”    parsley

Put the tomatoes, water, sugar, cloves and pepper-corns in a
porcelain-lined sauce-pot. Simmer for half-an-hour. Fry the onions
and parsley in the butter, being careful not to burn. Add the flour to
them, mix smooth. Add them to the tomatoes. Simmer for ten minutes.
Strain through a fine sieve. Season. Serve with rice (see p. 106) or
croûtons (see p. 103).




Soups thickened with a Liaison of Cream and Yolk of Egg


                             PAGE

  Brown Bread Soup             51

  Cauliflower Cream            51

  Cream of Rice                52

  Cucumber Soup                52

  Dutch Soup                   53

  Flemish Soup                 53

  Friar’s Chicken              54

  Italian Macaroni Soup--I     54

  Macaroni Soup--II            55

  Russian Soup                 56

  Turkish Soup                 56

  Water-cress Soup             57

  White Chicken Soup           57

  White Veal Soup              58


In thickening soups with a liaison of cream (or milk) and yolk of egg,
the eggs must first be well beaten, then the cream should be added
to them and thoroughly mixed. When this is done take a tea-cup of
hot stock and mix it slowly with the liaison. Strain it all through
a fine sieve or muslin, and add gradually to the soup, which must on
no account be allowed to boil after the liaison is added, although it
should be stirred over a gentle fire until it thickens.

In thickening soup with eggs only, beat the required number of eggs,
add a little warm stock to them. Strain, and add gradually to the soup.


Brown Bread Soup

  1 quart stock
  4 or 5 small slices of brown bread
  ¹⁄₂ head of celery
  1 carrot
  4 table-spoons glaze
  4 yolks of eggs
  1 gill sour cream

Toast the brown bread. Add it with the sliced celery and carrot to a
rich stock from which all the fat has not been removed. Bring to a
boil. Simmer for an hour. Add four table-spoons glaze. Put all through
a sieve. Heat gently. Add the liaison of eggs and cream. Serve with
croûtons made of brown bread (see p. 103).

This soup can be made with German black bread.


Cauliflower Cream

  1 quart chicken stock
  1 cup cooked cauliflower
  2 yolks of eggs
  ¹⁄₂ pint cream
  1 cup button mushrooms

Put the cauliflower through a fine sieve. Add it to the boiling stock.
Season. Add the liaison of cream and egg.

Place the cooked mushrooms at the bottom of a soup tureen. Pour the
soup over them.


Cream of Rice with Parmesan

  ¹⁄₄ lb. Carolina rice
  1 quart chicken stock
  1 gill cream
  ¹⁄₂ oz. Parmesan
  2 yolks of eggs

Wash the rice. Boil it for ten minutes in water. Drain. Add to the
stock. Simmer until the rice is tender. Put through a fine sieve. Add
to the stock. Mix in the cheese. Add the liaison of cream and eggs (see
p. 50).

Quenelles of chicken (see p. 105) can be added if desired, or rice
balls (see p. 107).


Cucumber Soup

  1 cucumber
  1¹⁄₂ pints white stock
  1 oz. butter
  1 onion
  Small handful of sorrel
  A little chervil
  1 gill of cream
  2 eggs

Cut the cucumber into thin slices. Sprinkle salt over them. Leave them
for an hour. Drain. Put them in a sauce-pan with the butter, the onion,
chervil and sorrel finely minced. Add the stock. Season. Simmer for
twenty minutes. Add the liaison of cream and eggs and serve.


Dutch Soup

  2 carrots
  2 turnips
  1 cucumber
  1 quart chicken or veal broth
  Yolks of 3 eggs
  1 gill of cream
  Tea-spoonful butter
  1 gill cooked French beans
  1 gill cooked young peas

Cut the carrots, turnips and cucumber into olive-shaped pieces. Blanch
for three minutes in boiling water. Add to the stock, and simmer until
the vegetables are tender. Take off the fire. Season. Add the yolks and
cream and butter (in small pieces). Stir over the fire until the soup
thickens.

Put the freshly cooked peas and beans (cut into dice) into the soup
tureen. Pour the soup over them.


Flemish Soup

  1 quart veal stock
  1 handful spinach and sorrel
  ¹⁄₂ pint cream
  3 yolks of eggs

Boil the chopped spinach and sorrel in the stock until tender.
Season. Just before serving add the liaison of eggs and cream. Stir
continually until it thickens. Serve with croûtons (p. 103).


Friar’s Chicken

  1 quart veal stock
  1 chicken
  3 yolks of eggs
  1 pint cream or milk
  2 table-spoons chopped parsley

Cut the chicken into joints. Scald and skin them. Add them to the
stock. Season. Bring to the boil. Simmer gently for an hour. Skim from
time to time. Strain. Add the liaison of egg and cream, and the parsley.


Italian Macaroni Soup--I

  5 ozs. macaroni
  2 ozs. butter
  1 quart white stock
  ¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk
  3 yolks of eggs
  1 oz. grated Parmesan

Cut the macaroni in boiling water, adding butter, salt and pepper. Boil
for half-an-hour. Drain. Cut in half-inch lengths.

Heat the white stock. Add the macaroni to it. Simmer another half-hour.
Add liaison of eggs and cream (or milk) and the grated cheese.


Macaroni Soup--II

  ¹⁄₂ lb. macaroni
  A little more than 1 quart chicken stock
  About 30 forcemeat balls
  4 yolks of eggs
  1 gill of cream

Boil the macaroni for ten minutes in cold water. Drain it. Cut it in
finger-lengths. Cook it again for fifteen minutes in a little clear
chicken stock. In a hot dish lay first a layer of macaroni, then one
of small chicken forcemeat balls (see p. 104), then another layer of
macaroni, etc.

Heat a quart of clear chicken stock to boiling point. Add a liaison of
the yolks of four eggs and a gill of cream. Strain. Serve in a soup
tureen with the dish of macaroni and forcemeat balls.


Russian Soup

  2 kidneys
  2 small onions
  ¹⁄₄ lb. mushrooms
  1 dozen small olives
  3 gherkins
  1 quart strong stock
  Yolks of two eggs

Melt the butter and fry the kidneys and onions (finely cut up) in it
very gently for five minutes. Cook the mushrooms separately. Put the
kidneys, onions, mushrooms, olives and gherkins (finely sliced) in a
hot soup tureen. Pour over them a quart of rich, dark, well-seasoned
brown stock, which has been thickened with the yolks of two eggs.


Turkish Soup

  1 quart of veal or beef stock
  ¹⁄₂ a tea-cup of rice
  2 yolks of eggs
  1 table-spoon cream

Boil the rice and stock together until the rice is tender. Press
through a sieve. Season. Add the yolks and cream. Serve with croûtons.


Water-cress Soup

  3 potatoes
  1 handful chopped water-cress
  1 quart stock (or water)
  2 yolks of eggs
  1 table-spoon cream
  1 oz. butter
  1 tea-spoon white roux

Peel and wash the potatoes. Cook them in a little stock. When tender
mash them and put through a sieve. Add them to the rest of the stock.
Put back on the fire. Heat gently. Add a tea-spoonful of white roux
(see p. 12). Add the butter in small pieces.

Make a liaison of the eggs and cream. Stir into the soup. Add the
water-cress uncooked. Serve at once, before the water-cress becomes
limp.


White Chicken Soup

  The water in which a fowl has been boiled
  The carcase and bones of the fowl
  1 pint milk or cream
  1 table-spoon chopped onion
  2 table-spoons   ”    celery
  Yolks of two eggs
  1 gill chopped and cooked carrot and green peas

Add the bones and carcase of the fowl, the onion, celery and seasoning
to the water in which a fowl has been boiled. Simmer till reduced to
one quart. Strain and thicken with a white roux of butter and flour. Add
the liaison of cream (or milk) and eggs.

Put the cooked carrot and peas in the soup tureen, and pour the soup
over them.


White Veal Soup

  2 lbs. knuckle of veal
  1 quart water
  1 onion
  Half pint of milk or cream
  2 yolks of eggs
  1 table-spoon butter
  1      ”      flour

Wipe the veal and cut it into small pieces. Cover with cold water and
heat slowly, skimming constantly. Season with salt, three or four
pepper-corns, and a chopped onion. Simmer for three hours until reduced
by half. Strain. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat. Put in the stew-pan
again, and when boiling thicken with white roux made of table-spoon
butter and a level table-spoon of flour (see p. 12). Add a half pint of
milk and eggs. Season again. Serve with fried bread.




Vegetable Purées


                                      PAGE

  Purée of Asparagus                    61

     ”     Black Beans                  62

     ”     Broad Beans                  63

     ”     Carrots                      63

     ”     Endive                       64

     ”     Green Peas--I                65

     ”     Green Peas--II               65

     ”     Italian Dried Green Peas     66

     ”     Lentils                      67

     ”     Onions                       68

     ”     Rice                         68

     ”     Turnips                      69

     ”     Winter Vegetables            69


When passing vegetables or meat through a tammy or fine sieve, it will
be easier if they are kept continually moistened with a little of the
stock or milk with which the purée is to be made.

Purées having been passed through the sieve or tammy, can, if not
required at once, be set aside until wanted. But a purée that has
reached this point must on no account be re-heated or have milk
or cream added to it until just before it is to be served. When
re-heating, if a meat purée, it should not be allowed to boil, or even
be made hotter than is absolutely necessary.

Allow all vegetable purées to boil up quickly for several minutes after
the purée and stock have been mixed. This will clarify them. All scum
should be carefully removed. When this is done, the butter and milk or
cream can be added.

A little white or brown roux well mixed with purées a minute or two
before serving will prevent the actual purée from separating from the
stock.


Purée of Asparagus

  1 bundle of asparagus
  1 handful spinach
  1 small onion
  1 quart white stock
  ¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream
  1 oz. butter

Break off all that is tender of each piece of asparagus. Scrape and
wash them. Leave them in cold water for half-an-hour. Drain them. Put
them in a sauce pan with a handful of spinach and a small onion. When
tender take all out and drain again. Add to them a quart of white
stock. Season. Boil gently for ten minutes. Put through a tammy. Heat
slowly again, season and add the butter and scalded cream. This soup
may be deepened in colour by adding a little spinach colouring (p.
104). Serve with croûtons (p. 103).


Purée of Black Beans

  ¹⁄₂ pint black beaus
  1 quart water
  1 carrot (grated)
  1 onion
  ¹⁄₂ head celery
  1 table-spoon butter
  1      ”      brown roux
  2 ozs. raw ham or salt pork
  2 cloves
  1 bouquet herbs
  1 lemon
  2 hard-boiled eggs
  1 glass sherry

Soak the beans over night. Drain. Put them in a sauce-pan with one
quart cold water, and the ham or pork, the celery, grated carrot, herbs
and cloves pounded. Slice the onion. Fry it in the butter. Add it to
the beans, etc. Simmer for four or five hours. As the water boils away
add _cold_ water to keep it to the same quantity. Put through a sieve.
Return to the fire. Season with salt, pepper, and a little mustard.
Stir in a table-spoonful of brown roux (see p. 13). Just before serving
add the juice of half a lemon and a glass of sherry.

Slice the hard-boiled eggs and half a lemon and put in the soup tureen.
Pour the soup over it. Force-meat balls (p. 104) also may be served
with this purée.


Purée of Broad Beans

  1 pint of beans
  1 slice of bacon or salt pork
  2 sprigs of parsley
  3 small onions and one clove
  ¹⁄₂ head of celery
  1 quart water or stock
  ¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream
  1 table-spoon butter
  1      ”      flour

Boil the beans, one onion, parsley, celery and clove, in one quart of
water or stock, until tender. Rub through a sieve into a basin, and set
aside.

Slice and boil two onions until tender. Drain them. Melt the butter in
a sauce-pan. Add the onions and a little nutmeg and fry until a good
brown, stirring in the flour and mixing it smooth. Add the boiling
milk. Boil for several minutes, stirring all the time. Press through a
sieve, and add to the purée of beans. Season. Heat gently. Serve with
croûtons.


Purée of Carrots

  2 large carrots
  1   ”   onion
  1   ”   turnip
  1 quart beef stock

Scrape the carrots, and slice them finely, using the red outside part
only. Slice the other vegetables. Put all together in a sauce-pan with
the stock. Cook until tender. Rub through a sieve. Return to the fire.
Season and add a small lump of sugar. Serve with croûtons.


Purée of Endive

  3 large endives
  1¹⁄₂ pints chicken stock
  1 table-spoon white roux
  ¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk
  2 ozs. butter

Discard all but the white hearts of the endives. Wash them thoroughly,
and boil them in salt water for ten minutes. Drain them and put them
to stew very gently for quarter of an hour with the butter, stirring
continually. Then add half a pint of white chicken stock, and simmer
for an hour. Pass through a tammy. Return to the fire and add a pint
more stock. Let it boil up. Season. Add the white roux (p. 12), butter
and the boiling cream. Colour with spinach colouring (see p. 104).


Purée of Green Peas--I

  1 pint of green peas
  1 turnip
  1 small onion
  1 piece of mint
  1 oz. of butter
  1 quart brown stock

Stew the vegetables with the butter, one pint of stock, and a little
celery seed, until they are quite tender. Rub them through a fine sieve
or tammy. Return to the fire. Add the rest of the stock. Season, and
add a lump of sugar and spinach colouring (see p. 104).

Whenever possible, use half a head of celery finely chopped, instead of
the celery seed.


Purée of Green Peas--II

  1 pint of peas
  2 small onions
  1 cabbage lettuce
  1 bouquet herbs
  1 quart stock
  1 table-spoon white roux
  1 gill cream

Stew the peas, onion (sliced), lettuce and a bouquet of herbs in the
butter very gently for ten minutes. Add to them the hot stock. Bring
to the boil. Simmer for half-an-hour. Pass through a tammy. Re-heat
gently. Season. Stir in the roux (p. 12) and a gill of cream. Serve
with croûtons, or add to the soup some young cooked peas.


Purée of Italian Dried Green Peas

  ¹⁄₂ pint of peas
  ¹⁄₂ head of celery
  1¹⁄₂ pints of stock or water
  ¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk
  1 table-spoon butter

Soak the peas over night. Put them and the celery, chopped, on to boil
with the water or stock. Boil till very tender. Put through a hair
sieve or tammy. Put back on the fire and heat gently. Season. Colour
with spinach colouring. Just before serving add the butter, in small
pieces, and, when it has melted, the boiling cream. Serve with croûtons
(see p. 103).


Purée of Lentils

  1 pint of lentils
  1 head of celery
  1 onion
  1 turnip
  1 carrot
  1 slice of ham
  3 pints stock or water
  1 gill of cream

Soak the lentils in water over night. Let the vegetables (which should
be cut up) and the ham stew gently in the butter for ten minutes.
Strain the lentils from the water they have soaked in. Put them with
the ham, vegetables and stock into a sauce-pan. Bring to the boil
and simmer for two hours. Strain off the liquid. Pound and mash the
lentils, etc., and pass them through a sieve. Return them to the
liquid. Boil up again. Add a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, seasoning
and the cream, scalded. Serve with fried bread (see p. 103).


Purée of Onions

  6 onions
  1 small turnip
  ¹⁄₂ head celery
  1 quart white stock
  2 ozs. butter
  ¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk
  12 button onions

Cook the large onions, turnip, celery and butter with the stock until
very tender. At the same time prepare and boil the button onions until
soft. Put the vegetables and stock through a fine sieve. Return to the
fire. Add the cream or milk, scalded, and the button onions. Season.


Purée of Rice

  4 table-spoons rice
  1 pint stock
  1 pint milk or cream
  1 onion
  1 carrot (grated)
  Bay leaf
  ¹⁄₂ cup fine bread crumbs
  1 oz. butter

Wash and parboil the rice. Add it to the stock with a grated carrot,
the sliced onion (which should have been fried a light brown in the
butter), and the bread crumbs. Simmer for half-an-hour. Pass through
a fine sieve. Return to the fire. Add the scalded milk or cream, and
season. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).


Purée of Turnip

  4 turnips (preferably yellow)
  1 large onion
  1 carrot
  1 piece of celery
  4 ozs. butter
  1¹⁄₂ pints stock or water
  ¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream

Slice the vegetables finely and stew them in the butter. Add half a
pint of the stock hot and simmer until the vegetables are very tender.
Put through a sieve. Add the rest of the stock. Heat. Season. Just
before serving add the scalded milk or cream.


Purée of Winter Vegetables

  1 onion
  1 carrot
  1 large turnip
  ¹⁄₂ small cabbage
  ¹⁄₂ head of celery
  ¹⁄₂ pint of stewed tomatoes
  1 quart of water or stock
  Bouquet of sweet herb
  Table-spoon butter
  1 gill cream or milk

Chop all the vegetables but the cabbage and tomatoes very fine. Put
them in a sauce-pan with the water or stock and boil. Cook the cabbage
separately. When the vegetables are tender, add the cabbage. Simmer
ten minutes. Add the tomatoes and a bouquet of herbs. Boil for quarter
of an hour. Rub through a sieve. Return to the fire. Season. Add the
butter and the cream.




Meat Purées


                               PAGE

  Purée of Fowl à la Reine      73

  ” ” à la Reine Margot         73

  ” Hare                        74

  ” Pheasant                    75

  ” Rabbit                      75


Whenever a piece of meat or fowl is added to a soup, it must be added
as late as possible, and the soup must not be allowed to boil after
it has been added, or even made very hot. If it boils the purée will
curdle. Should it by accident do so, it is possible to remedy it by
adding a little more stock to the soup, putting it all through a tammy
again, and then warming it gently.


Purée of Fowl à la Reine

  1 large tender fowl
  ¹⁄₄ lb. boiled rice
  1¹⁄₂ pints water
  ¹⁄₂ pint cream

Roast the fowl. Cut off all the meat from it. Chop it and pound it.
Break the bones and carcase of the fowl. Put them and the skin in a
sauce-pan with the water. Bring to a boil and simmer for an hour or
two. Skim and strain. Add it to the pounded meat. Pass through a tammy.
Add the scalded cream. Season.


Purée of Fowl à la Reine Margot

  1 fowl
  1 quart water
  ¹⁄₂ pint cream
  3 ozs. pounded almonds
  1 tea-cup bread crumbs

Boil the fowl in a quart of water. When the fowl is tender, take it out
and set it aside. Skim the broth and pour it into a basin. Cut all the
meat off the fowl. Chop it very fine and pound it. Add to it the bread
crumbs (which must be very finely grated), and the pounded almonds.
Put all through a tammy and add to the broth. Season. Add the boiling
cream. The yolks of three eggs can also be added if desired (see p. 50).


Purée of Hare

  1 small hare
  1 quart water or consommé
  1 small bouquet of herbs
  2 ozs. butter
  2 ozs. boiled rice
  ¹⁄₂ pint Sauterne

Skin and clean the hare. Cut it up into small pieces. Melt the butter
in a large sauce-pan. Add the pieces of hare to it with a small bouquet
of herbs. Fry them a good brown colour. Add the water or stock. Bring
to the boil. Simmer an hour-and-a-half. Strain off the broth. Cut off
all the meat from the hare. Chop and pound it. Add the rice. Dilute
with the broth and pass through a tammy. Heat the purée gently when
required, adding the Sauterne. Season. Serve with fried croûtons.


Purée of Pheasants

  1 pheasant
  1 quart stock
  3 ozs. boiled rice
  1 table-spoon glaze

Roast the pheasant until it is thoroughly done. Cut off all the meat.
Set aside the white meat. Put the rest with the bones and stock into a
sauce-pan. Bring to the boil and simmer for an hour. Chop and pound the
meat. Add the rice to it. Dilute with the strained stock. Pass through
a tammy. Add the table-spoonful of glaze (see p. 14). Serve with
croûtons.


Purée of Rabbit

  1 rabbit
  1¹⁄₂ pints water
  2 ozs. barley or rice (well boiled)
  ¹⁄₂ pint cream
  1 table-spoon brown roux

Roast the rabbit, seasoning it with salt, pepper and nutmeg. When it
is done, cut off all the meat. Put the bones with the water to make a
stock and simmer an hour or two. Skim and strain. Chop the meat and
pound it. When the stock is ready, put it with the meat and barley or
rice through a tammy. When ready to serve, heat the purée gently, and
add the roux (see p. 12). Season, and add half a pint of scalded cream.
Quenelles of rabbit may be served with this purée (see p. 105).




Bisques


                      PAGE

  Crab Bisque           78

  Lobster Bisque        78

  Oyster Bisque         79


Crab Bisque

  1 large crab
  1¹⁄₂ pints white stock
  Bread crumbs or rice
  2 yolks of hard-boiled eggs
  ¹⁄₂ pint cream
  1 glass white wine (Sauterne or Rhenish)

Take out all the meat, setting that from the claws aside. Pound the
rest of the meat with the pulpy part. Add to it about half its weight
in fine bread crumbs or boiled rice, and the yolks. Dilute with the
stock. Rub through a tammy. Heat very gently, taking care that it does
not boil. Season with salt and cayenne. Add half a pint of boiling
cream, and, if desired, a glass of white wine, and the shredded meat
from the claws.


Lobster Bisque

  1 hen-lobster
  1¹⁄₂ pints white stock
  ¹⁄₂ head of celery
  2 ozs. butter
  ¹⁄₂ pint cream or white wine (Sauterne or Rhenish)

Remove the meat from a hen-lobster. Set aside the coral and dry it. Cut
up the meat into very fine shreds and fry them for five minutes in the
butter, with the chopped celery and pepper and salt. Add the stock and
boil for half-an-hour. Drain off the stock. Pound the meat and pass it
through a tammy. When required, return the stock and purée to the fire.
Heat gently and stir continually, stir in the coral which should have
been rubbed through a very fine sieve when dry. Season and add a few
drops of lemon juice, the scalded cream or half a pint of hot white
wine. Do not allow the bisque to boil.


Oyster Bisque

  1 pint oysters
  1 pint stock
  1 pint milk
  1 gill cream
  1 blade mace
  Nutmeg
  4 ozs. butter

Boil the oysters gently for quarter of an hour in the stock, adding to
it one ounce of butter and the spices. Take off the fire and drain. Set
aside the stock. Chop the oysters very fine. Melt two ounces of butter
and add them to it. Stir in the flour gradually and smoothly. Add the
stock, and a pint of milk. Boil for ten minutes, stirring continually.
Rub through a tammy. Return to the fire. Add a gill of boiling cream
and an ounce of butter in small pieces. Stir the bisque until it is
melted, but do not allow it to boil. Season. Serve with croûtons (see
p. 103).




Fish Soups


                      PAGE

  Bouillabaisse         82

  Fish Soup             83

  Oyster Soup           84

  Salmon Soup           84


Bouillabaisse

  About 3 lbs. of fish
  2 onions
  2 table-spoons of olive oil
  ¹⁄₂ a lemon
  2 small tomatoes
  1 glass white wine
  1 laurel leaf
  4 pepper corns
  1 table-spoon chopped parsley
  Bread

Wash the fish and cut it across in slices of different sizes. Take a
large iron sauce-pan, fry the onions with olive oil in it. When they
are coloured a good brown add the fish to the sauce-pan and just cover
it with warm water. Add also a laurel leaf, the inside of half a lemon
(from which the pips have been removed), two small tomatoes (peeled and
the seeds taken out) cut in dice and a glass of light white wine, the
pepper-corns and salt. Make up a big fire. Set the sauce-pan on it and
let the contents boil violently for twelve to fifteen minutes. Then add
a table-spoon of chopped parsley. Let it continue boiling for a minute.

In a warmed soup tureen put a number of slices of roll or bread. Pour
the liquid over them. See that they become thoroughly soaked with it.
Add the best of the fish and serve.

The best fish to use for Bouillabaisse are cod, whiting, mullet, sole,
turbot and langouste. It is absolutely essential that all the fish used
should be perfectly fresh.

In France 4 cloves of garlic would be added with the tomatoes, but this
is optional.


Fish Soup

  1 lb. cod or halibut
  1 quart milk
  1 sliced onion
  1 table-spoon white roux

Cook the fish in boiling salted water until it flakes easily. Drain it.
Take away the bones and skin and rub the fish through a sieve. Put the
sliced onion in the milk and boil for ten minutes. Remove the onion.
Add the white roux (see p. 12) to the milk. Stir till well mixed. Add
the fish. Season.


Oyster Soup

  1 pint oysters
  ¹⁄₂ pint water
  1 pint milk
  1 gill thick cream
  1 table-spoon white roux

Cover the oysters with the cold water. After a little while remove
them. Strain the liquor. Put it on to boil and skim. When clear add the
oysters. Let them simmer until their edges ruffle and their bodies grow
plump. (This should take about five minutes.) Take out the oysters,
set them where they will keep warm. Add the liquor to the milk, which
should be boiling. Add the roux (see p. 12) and seasoning. Simmer five
minutes. Add the boiling cream. Add the oysters.


Salmon Soup

  ¹⁄₂ lb. salmon
  1 quart white stock
  2 anchovies
  ¹⁄₂ head of celery
  A piece of parsley
  1 clove
  1 gill cream
  1 table-spoon white roux

Let half a pound of the salmon stew gently with the chopped anchovies,
in two ounces of butter, for twenty minutes, being very careful that
it does not brown. Add the stock, the celery, cut fine, parsley, spice
and herbs. Bring to the boil. Add the white roux (p. 12). Simmer for
an hour-and-a-half. Put through a tammy. Return to the fire. Add the
boiling cream. Season and serve at once.




Broths


                      PAGE

  Barley Broth          87

  Chicken Broth         87

  Cockie Leekie         88

  Game Broth            89

  Hotch Potch           90

  Potato Broth          90

  Scotch Broth          91

  Sheep’s Head Broth    92


Barley Broth

  2 lbs. lean mutton
  ¹⁄₄ lb. barley
  2 turnips
  2 carrots
  1 leek or onion
  2 table-spoons chopped parsley
  2 quarts of water

Trim the mutton and cut it into small dice-shaped pieces. Put it with
the barley in a sauce-pan. Cover with the water. Bring to a boil.
Simmer for two hours, skimming from time to time. Add the vegetables,
which should be finely chopped, and the parsley. Season. Simmer for
forty minutes.


Chicken Broth

  1 chicken
  1 quart cold water
  1 onion
  2 table-spoons of rice

Clean the chicken. Separate it into joints, removing all skin and fat.
Put it into a sauce-pan and cover with the cold water. Add the onion
sliced. Simmer until the chicken is tender. Remove the breast of the
chicken from the sauce-pan. Let the rest continue to simmer until the
meat comes clean away from the bones. Strain off the broth. Remove the
fat. Take two table-spoonfuls of rice which has already been washed and
soaked for half-an-hour. Put the broth on the fire again. Add to it the
rice. Season. Add the breast of the chicken cut in small pieces. Simmer
until the rice is tender. A cup of scalded cream can be added just
before serving.


Cockie Leekie

  1 fowl
  2 lbs. shin of beef or knuckle of veal
  2 quarts of water
  12 leeks

Skin the fowl and cut it into joints. Put it in a stew-pan with the
meat (which should not be cut up) and cover with the water. Bring to
a boil. Let it simmer for two hours. Skim. Cut off the coarser part
of the leeks, and cut the best parts into pieces about an inch long.
(The leeks are improved by being soaked in water for two hours before
using.) Add to the soup. Simmer for half-an-hour. Take out the meat and
fowl. Cut the breast of the fowl into small pieces and return to the
soup. Season.

A tea-cupful of boiled rice can be added if wished.


Game Broth

  Two or three birds (any kind of game)
  2 quarts of cold water
  1 whole carrot
  1 whole turnip
  ¹⁄₂ tea-cup chopped white cabbage
  3 potatoes sliced
  1 dozen small onions
  1 head of celery

Cut the game into small pieces, cover with two quarts of cold water.
Add an onion, two carrots, a turnip and several pieces of celery.
Bring to a boil. Simmer very gently for four hours. Strain off the
broth. Choose the best pieces of meat from the game, cut them up into
neat pieces. Add to the broth. Put back on the fire, and add a head
of celery very finely sliced, a dozen small onions, and three large
potatoes cut in slices. Simmer gently for about three quarters of an
hour. Add the cooked chopped cabbage, and simmer another five minutes.


Hotch Potch

  2 lbs. lean mutton from the neck
  2 quarts cold water
  1 large carrot
  1 turnip
  2 onions
  1 cabbage
  1 small cauliflower
  ¹⁄₂ pint of shelled peas

Cut the mutton into dice-shaped pieces, removing the fat and skin. Put
it in a sauce-pan with the water and bring to the boil. Let it simmer
gently for two hours. Skim. Season. Add all the vegetables, finely
chopped, except the cabbage (of which the heart only should be used and
which should be cooked separately). Simmer two or three hours. Add the
cabbage.


Potato Broth

  The water in which a joint of mutton has been boiled
  1 oz. ham
  1 oz. butter
  1 small onion
  3 large potatoes

Reduce the water to one quart. Strain, and remove the fat.

Chop one ounce of lean ham very fine. Melt an ounce of butter in a
sauce-pan, and in it fry the ham and a small sliced onion until a rich
brown. Add this to the broth and simmer thirty minutes. Strain. Season.

Pare and slice three large potatoes. Add to the broth. Bring to the
boil. Simmer for forty minutes.


Scotch Broth

  2 lbs. scrag end neck of mutton
  1 lb. best end     ”        ”
  2 quarts water
  2 carrots
  2 turnips
  3 small onions or 2 leeks
  Small head of celery
  1 table-spoon chopped parsley
  3 table-spoons barley which has been soaked several hours

Soak the scrag end in cold water for an hour. Remove the skin very
carefully and part of the fat. Put on to boil with two quarts of
cold water. When it boils skim it. Set back to simmer for two hours.
Strain. Put the strained broth into a sauce-pan. Add to it the best
end of the neck, either in cutlets or using the meat only (cut in neat
pieces) and the barley. Bring to the boil. Simmer two hours. Skim. Add
the vegetables cut into small dice-shaped pieces. Season. Simmer till
vegetables are tender. Add parsley.


Sheep’s Head Broth

  1 sheep’s head
  1 tea-cup pearl barley
  2 quarts cold water
  3 onions and two cloves
  1 turnip
  1 carrot
  Bouquet of herbs
  Glass of white wine
  Mushroom ketchup

Remove the brains from a sheep’s head, and clean it. Leave the head in
water over night. The next day put the head in a sauce-pan with the
water and barley. Bring to a boil. Throw in a little cold water. Skim.
Simmer for an hour, stirring from time to time. Add the vegetables, cut
up finely, and herbs. Simmer three or four hours until head is tender.
Strain off the broth from the head. Put the vegetables through a sieve
and add to the broth. Let it stand till cold. Remove the fat. Take the
best of the meat from the head. Cut it into small pieces. Put them with
the broth in a sauce-pan. Heat gently. Add a wine-glass of white wine
and a little mushroom ketchup just before serving.




Broths and Soups for Invalids


                      PAGE

  Beef Essence          95

  Beef Tea--I           95

  Beef Tea--II          96

  ” ” --III             96

  Calves’ Foot Broth    97

  Chicken Broth         98

  ” Custard             98

  ” Panada              99

  Game Panada           99

  Chicken Tea          100

  Mutton Broth         100

  Veal Broth           101


It is essential in making invalid soups that the meat used should be
uncooked and very good.

For beef tea use steak or shin of beef.

Every piece of skin, membrane and fat should be carefully removed from
the meat to be used.

Vegetables, spice and seasoning should not be used unless permitted by
the doctor.

When soup has to be made quickly a little time can be saved by removing
the fat from it while it is still hot (see p. 3).


Beef Essence

Cut up a lean piece of juicy rump steak into small pieces. Put these
into a closely covered jar without any water. Stand the jar in a large
sauce-pan containing cold water. Heat slowly and keep just below
boiling point. When the meat in the jar is white, it is done. This
should be in about two hours. Strain off the juice, pressing the meat
while doing so in order that none may be left in it. Season with a
little salt.

  OR,

Place the meat in a closely covered jar in a moderate oven, leaving it
there for three hours. Strain as above.

In both cases the essence should be kept in a cold place. It must not
be boiled when it is heated. It can be made into beef tea by adding
boiling water to it.


Beef Tea--I

  1 lb. very juicy rump steak or shin of beef
  1 cup cold water

Cut the meat into very small pieces. Put these in a bowl and cover
with a cup of cold water. Cover the basin and leave for three or four
hours. Then, squeezing the meat firmly, drain off all the liquid.
Strain this, add a little salt, and when required heat very gently. It
is best to do this in a _bain marie_, as it curdles easily (see p. 110).

Add another cup of cold water to the meat, and proceed as for the first
cup.


Beef Tea--II

  1 lb. steak or shin of beef
  2 pints water

Cut the meat, which must be lean and juicy, into small pieces. Put them
into a stew-pan and cover with a quart of water. Heat very gently.
Skim whenever necessary. Simmer for a little more than an hour. Strain
through muslin into a basin. Let it stand until cool. Remove the fat.
Pour off the clear beef tea very gently from the dregs.


Beef Tea--III

  4 lbs. of steak or shin of beef
  2 lbs. bones
  2 quarts cold water

Break and crush the bones. Cut the meat into small pieces. Put into a
stew-pan and cover with the cold water. Heat very slowly. Simmer for
three hours. Add a little salt. Strain into a basin. Allow it to cool.
Remove any fat very carefully. Pour off the clear liquid carefully from
the dregs.

If allowed, a little carrot and celery may be cooked with the beef tea.


Calves’ Foot Broth (or Jelly)

  2 calves’ feet
  2 quarts cold water
  2 table-spoons sugar
  Juice of half a lemon
  Glass of good white wine

Scald and clean the feet. Split and break them. Put into a stew-pan and
cover with two quarts of cold water. Heat very slowly and simmer until
reduced to about a pint and a half. Strain. When cold remove the fat.
Add sugar and lemon juice. Return to the fire. Let it boil for five
minutes, stirring continually. Skim thoroughly. Add the wine. Strain
through a jelly bag, and keep in a cold place.

In making broth, the wine may be omitted, and in its place the beaten
yolk of an egg added. In which case it will only be necessary to strain
it instead of passing it through a jelly bag. Sago or tapioca, which
has been boiled till tender, should be added.


Chicken Broth

  One chicken
  1 quart of cold water
  Juice of a lemon
  Boiled rice or vermicelli

Cut up a chicken into small pieces. Remove the meat from the bones
as much as possible. Crush the bones. Cover meat and bones with a
quart of water. Heat very slowly. Simmer until perfectly tender. When
tender strain off the liquid. Let it get cool. Remove the fat. Heat
again, adding a little salt and a few drops of lemon juice. Allow the
broth to boil for five minutes. Strain through a napkin. Add a little
well boiled rice or vermicelli, and a little of the white meat of the
chicken cut in dice.


Chicken Custard

  1 chicken
  3 pints of cold water
  2 yolks of eggs

Clean, skin and cut up a young chicken. Put it into a stew-pan with
about three pints of cold water. Heat very slowly. Skim carefully when
it boils. Allow it to simmer for an hour. Strain off the liquid through
a napkin.

To each half pint of broth add the yolks of two eggs. Put in a double
boiler and stir until it thickens (see p. 50). Serve at once.


Chicken Panada

  1 chicken
  1 French roll
  1 quart cold water

Skin a chicken and boil it gently until tender. Remove it from the
liquid and let it cool. Then cut off the white meat, pound it in a
mortar. Mix with it the crumb of a French roll that has been soaked
in broth. Add a little of the broth the chicken was boiled in. Pass
through a tammy. Dilute with broth. Salt. Heat gently, but do not allow
it to boil.

A table-spoon of well-boiled rice may be substituted for the crumb of a
French roll.


Game Panada

Game panada is made in exactly the same way as chicken panada,
substituting a pheasant, or a couple of partridges, for the chicken.


Chicken Tea

  1 chicken
  1 quart cold water

Skin a chicken and divide it into pieces. Put in a stew-pan and cover
with one quart of water. Simmer gently for a full hour. Strain. Allow
it to cool. Remove the fat. Serve hot or cold.


Mutton Broth

  1 lb. lean mutton
  1 pint cold water
  2 table-spoons boiled rice

Chop the mutton very fine. Put it in a stew-pan with one pint of cold
water. Put it in a basin and cover it with the water. Cover the basin.
Let it stand for an hour. Then heat very gently. Simmer for quarter of
an hour. Strain. Remove the fat. Add the well-boiled rice.


Veal Broth

  A knuckle of veal
  A chicken
  2 quarts of water
  2 table-spoons well-boiled rice

Put a knuckle of veal and a chicken (an old one will do) into a large
stew-pan. Cover with two quarts of water. Let it boil up gently. Skim.
Simmer for three hours. Strain through a napkin. Allow it to cool.
Remove the fat. Serve with a little boiled rice.




Accessories


                                                  PAGE

  Croûtons                                         104

  Custards                                         104

  Force-meat Balls                                 105

  Green Colouring                                  105

  Potato Balls                                     106

  Quenelles of Chicken, Game, Hare, Rabbit         106

  Quenelles of Marrow                              107

  Rice                                             107

  Rice (savoury)                                   108

  Rice Balls                                       108


Croûtons

  Several slices of stale bread
  1 oz. of butter

Cut off the crust and cut the bread into small dice-shaped pieces. Fry
them in the butter. Drain them on a sieve. Before serving, put them for
a few minutes in a quick oven.


Custards for Clear Soup

  4 yolks of eggs
  1 gill consommé or water

Beat the yolks in a basin, stir in the consommé or water. Add a little
salt. Strain through a hair sieve into a shallow mould. Steam it until
well set. Let it become quite cold. Put out on a wet cloth. Cut in
squares or fancy shapes. Part of the custard may be coloured green with
spinach colouring.


Force-meat Balls

  1 cup of meat of any kind
  1 tea-spoon finely chopped parsley
  1 salt-spoon thyme
  1 tea-spoon lemon juice
  1 yolk of egg (raw)
  1 table-spoon flour
  1      ”      butter

Chop the meat very fine, season it highly, and add the lemon juice,
thyme and parsley. Moisten with the yolk of egg. Roll into small balls.
Flour them well. Melt the butter in a shallow pan. When it is brown add
the balls. Fry until brown.


Green Colouring

Pound some spinach in a mortar and put it through a hair sieve. Put the
juice in a sauce-pan and boil it until it curdles. Put through a very
fine sieve. Bottle.


Potato Balls

(For Potato or Clear Soups)

  2 potatoes
  1 oz. butter
  1 table-spoon thick cream
  1 egg

Boil the potatoes. Rub them through a sieve. Put them in a sauce-pan
with the butter and cream. Season. Stir over a good fire until of a
stiff consistency. Remove from the fire and put in a basin. Add the
yolk of an egg and the beaten white. Form into small balls. Drop into
boiling water. Boil two or three minutes.


Quenelles of Chicken, Game, Hare or Rabbit

  4 ozs. meat
  2 ozs. bread-crumbs
  2 ozs. butter
  1 whole egg and 1 extra yolk

Chop and pound the meat. Soak the bread-crumbs in a little milk or
broth. Mix all thoroughly together. Season. Pass through a sieve.
Form into balls. Drop into boiling water or broth and simmer for three
minutes.

The best meat should always be reserved for making quenelles.


Quenelles of Marrow

  4 ozs. marrow
  4 ozs. fine bread-crumbs
  1 egg
  ¹⁄₂ tea-spoonful finely-chopped parsley

Mix all the ingredients thoroughly. Season. Roll in the hand in small
balls. Boil in a little broth for fifteen minutes.


Rice

  1 cup of Carolina rice
  2 quarts boiling water
  1 table-spoon salt

Wash a cup of rice thoroughly. Drain it. Throw it into a large
sauce-pan of salted boiling water and let it boil as fast as possible
for twenty minutes. Do not stir. Drain. Put into cold water for ten
minutes. Drain again. When required warm it by steaming, or set it in
the oven, leaving the door open.


Savoury Rice

(To serve with Clear Soup)

Prepare the rice as above. Add to it one cup of rich stock which has
been highly seasoned. Steam to warm. Add a table-spoon of butter just
before serving.

  OR,

Add a table-spoon of chopped onion which has been fried a rich yellow
in a table-spoon of butter, to the cooked rice. Moisten with a cup of
stock and steam for ten minutes.


Rice Balls

(For Cream of Rice or Clear Soups)

  ¹⁄₄ lb. Carolina rice
  1 oz. butter
  1 oz. grated Parmesan
  2 yolks of eggs
  1 whole egg

Boil the rice until quite soft. Drain it. Put it in a sauce-pan with
the butter, cheese and yolks. Stir continually for five minutes.
Season. Take off the fire. Turn out of the sauce-pan to cool. When
cold, make into small balls. Beat the whole egg. Roll the balls first
in a little flour, then in the egg. Fry in very hot lard till a rich
yellow.




Sauces


There is, of course, no end to sauces, and in a book of this size it is
impossible to do justice to their variety. Enough are, however, I hope,
given in the pages that follow for ordinary needs.

It is of the highest importance in making sauces that the materials
used should be of the best. Fresh butter and the finest olive oil
should be used.

When adding the yolks of eggs to sauces it is best to do so in a _bain
marie_ (_i.e._ to stand the sauce-pan in which the sauce is being made,
inside a larger one full of boiling water), as they must never be
allowed to boil, and a quick fire easily burns them.

For thickening sauces, etc., see remarks on soup on p. 12.




Hot Sauces for Fish


                             PAGE

  Black Butter                112

  Dutch Sauce                 112

  Genoese Sauce               113

  Italian Sauce               113

  Maître d’Hotel Sauce        114

  Melted Butter               114

  Anchovy Sauce               114

  Cucumber Sauce              114

  Egg Sauce                   114

  Shrimp Sauce                114

  Oyster Sauce                115

  Sauce Hollandaise           115


Black Butter

(For Skate, grilled Mackerel)

  1 gill vinegar
  4 ozs. butter
  Several small parsley leaves
  Small piece of bay leaf

Boil the vinegar with the bay leaf until it is considerably reduced.

Heat the butter in a pan until it becomes brown. Add the parsley
leaves. Let them fry for a moment. Skim the butter.

Remove the bay leaf from the vinegar. Add a little salt and pepper.
Pour the butter and parsley leaves into it. Mix and serve.


Dutch Sauce

  Butter, size of an egg
  1 tea-spoon flour
  ¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream
  Juice of half a lemon
  2 yolks of eggs

Melt the butter in a sauce-pan. Stir in the flour and mix till
perfectly smooth. Add the milk or cream. Boil for two or three minutes.
Add lemon juice, and just before serving, stir in the two yolks. After
which do not allow the sauce to boil.


Genoese Sauce

(For Fillet of Sole)

  1 oz. butter
  2 table-spoons olive oil
  2 yolks of eggs
  1 table-spoon vinegar

Put the oil and butter into a sauce-pan on the fire and stir till the
butter is melted. Beat the yolks slightly. Add the vinegar to them.
Season. Directly the butter is melted add the yolks and vinegar,
stirring continually over a _bain marie_ until the sauce thickens. Half
a tea-spoonful of mustard may be added.


Italian Sauce

(For Mackerel, etc.)

  2 table-spoons olive oil
  1 oz. butter
  6 chopped mushrooms
  1 shallot, finely chopped
  1 tea-spoon chopped parsley
  1 clove
  1 wine-glass white wine
  10 drops Liebig’s extract of meat

Put the butter and oil into a sauce-pan. Add the mushrooms, shallot,
parsley and the clove. Cook for a few minutes. Add the wine and
Liebig. Simmer gently for forty minutes. Season. Pass through a sieve.


Maître d’Hotel

  4 ozs. butter
  ¹⁄₂ pint milk
  1 tea-spoon flour
  1 dessert-spoon finely chopped parsley
  Juice of a lemon

Mix the flour and butter together till smooth. Melt in a sauce-pan.
Add the boiling milk. Let all boil for three or four minutes, stirring
constantly. Add the parsley and lemon juice.


Melted Butter

  1 tea-spoon flour
  4 ozs. butter
  1 gill boiling milk or water

Mix the flour and butter thoroughly in a basin. When perfectly smooth
put in a sauce-pan. Add to it the boiling milk or water. Let it boil
for two or three minutes. Stir continually from left to right. Season.

To this sauce the raw yolk of an egg or a finely chopped hard boiled
egg, shrimps, a little essence of anchovy, or a table spoon of grated
cucumber may be added; when it becomes egg, shrimp, anchovy or cucumber
sauce. To the cucumber sauce add a tea-spoonful of lemon juice.


Oyster Sauce

  2 doz. oysters
  3 ozs. butter
  1 tea-spoon flour
  ¹⁄₂ pint cream
  1 coffee-spoon lemon juice

Prepare the oysters and stew them in their own juice and the butter
until plump and tender. Mix the flour with the cream, until perfectly
smooth. Bring to the boil and let it boil two or three minutes. Add it
to the oysters, etc. Stir quickly together. Season with salt, a little
cayenne and the lemon juice.


Sauce Hollandaise

  4 table-spoons vinegar
  1 blade mace
  1 tea-spoon flour
  Yolks of 4 eggs
  3 ozs. butter

Season the vinegar, add to it the flour and mix perfectly smooth.
Add the mace. Bring to the boil and boil for two or three minutes.
Take off the fire, and take out the mace. Add the butter cut in small
pieces, and the well-beaten yolks. Stir continually, in one direction,
over a _bain marie_. Serve directly the butter is melted.




Hot Sauces for Roasts, Steaks, Cutlets, etc.


                             PAGE

  Brown Sauce                 118

  Cucumber Sauce              118

  Dutch Horse-radish Sauce    119

  Maître d’Hotel I.           120

  ” ” II.                     120

  Mushroom Sauce              121

  Onion ”                     121

  Sauce Béarnaise             122

  Sauce for Chops and Steaks  122

  Sauce Piquante au Citron    123

  Sauce Robert                123

  Sauce Vinaigrette           124

  Tomato Sauce                124


Brown Sauce or Cullis

  3 lbs. lean veal
  1 lb. raw lean ham
  1 oz. butter
  6 mushrooms chopped
  1 carrot chopped
  1 onion chopped
  Rind of a lemon
  Small bouquet of herbs
  1 tea-spoon allspice
  1 quart brown stock
  ¹⁄₄ lb. brown roux

Slice the veal and ham. Add the vegetables, spice, lemon rind and
herbs, and brown slightly in a sauce-pan with the butter. Add the stock
and brown roux (see p. 13). Boil ten minutes. Stir continually. Put
through a tammy.


Cucumber Sauce

  1 cucumber
  2 table-spoons brown stock
  1 oz. butter
  1 table-spoon chopped parsley
  Juice of half a lemon
  ¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce

Peel and split the cucumber lengthwise in four pieces. Take out the
seeds. Cut in small pieces. Put into salted water and boil gently for
seven minutes. Take off and drain. Melt the butter and add to it the
stock, cucumber and parsley. Cook gently for half-an-hour. Add the
brown sauce and lemon juice.


Dutch Horse-radish Sauce

(For Roast Beef or Steak)

  1 tea-cup horse-radish
  ¹⁄₂ pint water
  3 ozs. butter
  3 table-spoons flour
  1 gill cream
  4 yolks of eggs
  3 table-spoons elder vinegar

Scrape the horse-radish very finely, and boil it for ten minutes in
water. Drain off the water. Cook the horse-radish with the butter and
flour for four minutes. Add the water in which the horse-radish was
boiled, stirring continually. Heat. Take off the fire. Add the hot
cream and then the beaten yolks. Beat well together. Add pepper, salt
and the vinegar.


Maître d’Hotel--I

  2 ozs. butter
  1 table-spoon chopped parsley
  Juice of half a lemon

Melt the butter. Skim it. Add the parsley (and, if liked, a little
finely chopped shallot), salt, pepper and lemon juice.


Maître d’Hotel--II

  4 shallots
  1 tea-spoon chopped parsley
  1 tea-spoon chopped fennel
  1 dozen mushrooms
  2 ozs. butter
  ¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce or béchamel

Chop the shallots. Put them with the parsley, fennel and mushrooms in
a sauce-pan in which the butter has been melted. Cook gently for five
minutes. Add the brown sauce or béchamel (see pp. 118 and 126). Boil
ten minutes. Season and add a squeeze of lemon juice.


Mushroom Sauce

  2 dozen small mushrooms
  1 oz. butter
  1 table-spoon flour
  1 pint good gravy
  ¹⁄₂ a lemon

Cook the mushrooms in the butter until brown and tender. Add the flour.
Stir well in and brown. Pour the gravy over the mushrooms. Boil three
minutes. Season and add a little lemon juice.


Onion Sauce

(For Roast Mutton)

  4 onions
  ¹⁄₂ pint melted butter (see p. 114)

Slice and chop the onions finely. Boil until tender. Drain and add to
the hot melted butter. Season. If preferred, the onion can be first
passed through a fine sieve and then added to the melted butter.


Sauce Béarnaise

  5 yolks of eggs
  2 ozs. butter
  1 table-spoon chopped tarragon
  1 dessert-spoon vinegar

Put the yolks in a sauce-pan, in a _bain marie_, and stir into them one
ounce of butter. As soon as the eggs begin to thicken, take off the
fire. Add another ounce of butter, the tarragon and vinegar. This sauce
should be of the consistency of a mayonnaise. Serve with roast meats.


Sauce for Chops or Steak

  2 table-spoons red wine
  2 table-spoons ketchup
  1 tea-spoon butter
  1 tea-spoon vinegar

Stir altogether in a sauce-pan. Season and serve very hot.


Sauce Piquante au Citron

(For Calf’s Head)

  2 table-spoons chopped onions
  1 oz. butter
  1 table-spoon flour
  1 gill white stock
  1 gill white wine
  1 lemon

Fry the onion in the butter, with the flour, until a rich yellow. Add
to it the stock, which should be boiling, and the wine. Stir together.
Add the juice of the lemon and a little of the grated rind. Simmer for
quarter of an hour. Strain through a fine sieve.


Sauce Robert

(For Pork)

  3 onions
  1 gill rich brown gravy
  1 tea-spoon made mustard
  1 tea-spoon vinegar
  2 ozs. butter
  1 table-spoon flour

Chop the onions. Fry them in the butter. Add the flour. Mix quite
smooth. Add the gravy, salt and pepper. Simmer for half-an-hour. Skim.
Add the mustard and vinegar. Serve with pork.


Sauce Vinaigrette

  4 table-spoons vinegar
  1 bay leaf
  1 table-spoon brown sauce
  1 table-spoon chopped shallots
  2 table-spoons chopped gherkins
  1 table-spoon capers
  1 table-spoon chopped parsley
  1 oz. butter

Boil the vinegar for quarter of an hour with the bay leaf. Add the
sauce (see p. 118). Simmer five minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Add the
shallots (which should have been previously cooked in the butter and
allowed to drain upon a sieve), capers, gherkins and parsley.


Tomato Sauce

  6 tomatoes
  ¹⁄₂ an onion chopped
  1 clove
  1 slice of ham
  1 gill rich brown gravy
  1 table-spoon brown roux

Remove the seeds from the tomatoes. Stew them with the onion, ham and
clove in an enamel sauce-pan until well cooked. Rub through a tammy.
Return to the sauce-pan. Add the gravy and brown roux (see p. 12).
Simmer for quarter of an hour.




Hot Sauces for Fowls, Ducks, Rabbits, etc.


                      PAGE

  Apple Sauce          126

  Béchamel Sauce       126

  Bread Sauce          127

  Celery Sauce         127

  Gooseberry Sauce     128

  Lemon Sauce          128

  Parsley Sauce        129

  Sauce à la Reine     129

  White Sauce          130


Apple Sauce

Set the required quantity of sour apples, pared, cored and sliced, in
a small pan inside a large sauce-pan containing boiling water. Let the
water boil quickly until the apples are done. Mash them and add sugar
to taste.

  OR,

Pare, quarter and remove the core of several sour apples. Put them
a sauce-pan with a little water. Boil up quickly. Do not stir until
cooked. Then add sugar and mash.


Béchamel

  1 lb. veal
  2 slices ham
  2 pints water
  ¹⁄₄ lb. mushrooms
  1 onion
  Bouquet of herbs
  5 table-spoons white roux
  1 pint of cream

Slice the veal, ham, mushrooms and onion and stew them gently for an
hour and a half in the water. Thicken with the roux (see p. 12). Add
the cream. Boil for two or three minutes, stirring continually. Strain.


Bread Sauce

  ¹⁄₂ pint milk
  1 tea-cup bread-crumbs
  1 onion
  2 pepper-corns
  1 tea-spoon butter

Slice the onion and boil it in the milk with the pepper-corns until
very tender. Strain off the milk and add it to the bread-crumbs which
should be made from stale bread and be very finely grated. Allow the
sauce to stand covered for a few minutes. Add the butter. Stir in
thoroughly. Season and serve very hot.


Celery Sauce

  1 large head of celery
  ¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream
  1 table-spoon white roux

Use the best of the celery only. Cut it in small pieces. Cook it in
water until very tender. Put through a sieve. Add it to the cream or
milk. Thicken with a small table-spoon white roux (see p. 12). Season.


Gooseberry Sauce

(For Duckling or Goose)

  1 gill spinach juice
  ¹⁄₂ pint stock
  ¹⁄₂ pint gooseberries
  1 table-spoon sugar
  1 tea-spoon butter

Cook the gooseberries till tender. Rub them through a sieve. Put them
in a sauce-pan on the fire. Add the sugar (more if preferred) and
butter. When thoroughly mixed, add the stock with which the spinach
juice (see p. 104) has been mixed. Make very hot.


Lemon Sauce

(For Rabbit or Fowl)

  1 lemon
  1 liver of fowl or rabbit
  ¹⁄₂ pint melted butter
  1 table-spoon chopped parsley

Cook the liver, pound it and put it through a sieve. Peel the lemon,
cut the inside, from which the pips must be removed, into very small
dice-shaped pieces. Add the lemon and liver to the melted butter. Heat
gently, but do not boil. Add the parsley.


Parsley Sauce

  Small bunch of parsley
  ¹⁄₂ pint melted butter

Boil the parsley for five minutes. Drain. Chop finely. Add to the
melted butter.

  OR,

To one gill of water in which a fowl has been boiled, add one gill of
cream, one dessert-spoon white roux (see p. 12), seasoning and the
boiled and chopped parsley.


Sauce à la Reine

  ¹⁄₂ pint veal stock
  ¹⁄₄ lb. mushrooms
  Small bouquet of herbs
  ¹⁄₂ an onion
  ¹⁄₂ pint cream
  Breast of a fowl
  Juice of half a lemon
  1 tea-spoon flour

Let the veal stock simmer for half-an-hour with the mushrooms, onion,
and herbs. Then strain. Thicken with the flour. Boil two or three
minutes. Add the boiling cream. Set back on the fire and add the finely
pounded breast, lemon juice and seasoning. Do not allow the sauce to
boil after the chicken has been added.


White Sauce

  1 gill veal or chicken stock
  1 gill cream
  Juice of half a lemon
  Juice of half a Seville orange

Mix all together. Heat gently, stirring continually. Season.




Hot Sauces for Game, etc.


                     PAGE

  Cream Sauce         132

  Game Sauce          132

  German Sauce        133

  Madeira Sauce       133

  Orange Sauce        134

  Sauce Poivrade      134

  Sour Cream Sauce    135


Cream Sauce

  The gravy from two roasted birds
  1 gill cream

Stir the cream into gravy of the birds with which it is to be served.
Season. Add a few drops of lemon.


Game Sauce

  2 onions
  A bouquet of thyme, bay leaf and parsley
  Several pieces of game
  1 slice of ham
  1 oz. of butter
  4 table-spoons of Madeira
  ¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce (see p. 118)

Cut the onions, ham and game into small pieces. Add to them the
bouquet. Fry them gently in the butter. Add the Madeira. Simmer twenty
minutes. Add the sauce and simmer ten minutes. Pass through a sieve.


German Sauce

  ¹⁄₂ pint rich brown stock
  1 tea-spoon glaze
  Pheasant bones
  12 mushrooms
  1 glass white wine

Break the pheasant bones. Add them to the stock. Simmer half-an-hour.
Add the mushrooms. Simmer till tender. Put through a sieve. Add glaze,
seasoning and glass of wine.


Madeira Sauce

  ¹⁄₂ onion
  ¹⁄₂ carrot
  1 bay leaf
  2 cloves
  1 slice ham
  1 gill brown stock or gravy
  ¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce (see p. 118)
  1 glass Madeira
  Cayenne
  Juice of half a lemon

Slice the onion and carrot. Put them, with the bay leaf, clove and
the ham, cut in small pieces, in a sauce-pan. Cover with the brown
stock. Boil up quickly. Simmer half-an-hour. Season. Add Madeira, brown
sauce and lemon juice. Rub through a fine sieve. Colour with caramel
colouring (see p. 13) if not dark enough, and stir in the butter.


Orange Sauce

  2 Seville oranges
  ¹⁄₂ lemon
  1 glass red wine
  1 gill brown gravy
  1 lump of sugar

Grate the yellow part of the skin of one orange very finely. Add it to
the brown gravy. Simmer a few minutes. Add the wine, the juice of two
oranges and half a lemon, a little cayenne and the sugar. Serve with
game or wild duck.


Sauce Poivrade

  1 oz. butter
  2 onions
  1 carrot
  2 cloves
  1 bay leaf
  1 tea-spoon flour
  1 glass red wine
  1 glass water
  1 table-spoon vinegar

Melt the butter, add the onions and carrot sliced, the cloves, bay-leaf
and flour. Cook until a good brown, then add the wine, water and
vinegar. Boil half-an-hour. Strain. Season with salt and whole pepper.
Serve with game.


Sour Cream Sauce

  2 ozs. butter
  2 yolks of eggs
  1 table-spoon flour
  1 gill sour cream
  1 gill brown stock
  A little nutmeg
  A few drops of lemon juice

Cook the butter and flour together, but do not brown. Take off the fire
and add the yolks. When thoroughly mixed add the cream and stock, salt,
nutmeg and lemon. Heat but do not boil. Pass through a tammy. Heat
again without boiling.




Cold Sauces


                       PAGE

  Anchovy Butter        137

  Horse-radish Sauce    137

  Mayonnaise Sauce      138

  Mint Sauce            138

  Sauce for Cold Fish   139

  Sauce Gaillarde       139

  Sauce Moutarde        140

  Sauce Ravigote        140

  Sauce Remoulade       141


Anchovy Butter

  4 ozs. anchovies
  6 ozs. butter

Wash and dry the anchovies. Pound them and put them through a sieve.
Beat the butter to a cream and add to it the anchovies.


Horse-radish Sauce

  2 table-spoons grated horse-radish
  1 tea-spoon mustard
  1 dessert-spoon sugar
  1 table-spoon vinegar
  2 table-spoons thick cream

It is essential in making this sauce that the horse-radish should
be grated as fine as possible. Mix all together, adding the vinegar
slowly, and the cream last of all.


Mayonnaise Sauce

  1 or 2 raw yolks of egg
  Olive oil
  Vinegar

Put the yolk into a bowl and beat it slightly. Add the oil drop by
drop, stirring continually in one direction, and working it well
against the sides of the bowl. When the sauce becomes thick, the
oil may be added more quickly. Continue adding oil until sufficient
sauce has been made. Add vinegar, salt, pepper to taste. This sauce
should be made in a cold place and will take about fifteen minutes to
make. Finely chopped tarragon, chervil and olives may be added to the
mayonnaise.


Mint Sauce

  1 handful of mint chopped
  1 gill vinegar
  2 table-spoons powdered or brown sugar

Melt the sugar in the vinegar. Chop the mint very fine. It cannot be
too fine. Add it to the vinegar.


Sauce for Cold Fish

  4 anchovies
  3 yolks (hard boiled)
  2 yolks (raw)
  1 tea-spoon mustard
  Oil
  Vinegar
  A little smoked salmon

Clean, bone and pound the anchovies with the hard boiled eggs. Add the
mustard and raw yolks, stirring all the time. Add vinegar and oil until
you have a sufficient quantity of sauce, using three times as much oil
as vinegar, and stirring continually and always in the same direction.
Add salt, pepper and a little shredded smoked salmon.


Sauce Gaillarde

  2 hard boiled eggs
  2 gherkins
  4 small pickled onions
  A little tarragon and chervil
  Oil
  Vinegar

Crush the yolks and add to them the whites, gherkins, onions, tarragon
and chervil finely chopped. Add oil very slowly, turning continually
from left to right until the quantity of sauce required has been made.
Add one or two table-spoons of vinegar. Salt, pepper and a little
mustard.


Sauce Moutarde

  2 hard boiled yolks
  2 table-spoons olive oil
  3 table-spoons vinegar
  1 table-spoon mustard
  1 small handful tarragon

Crush the yolks and add to them the oil, salt, pepper, vinegar and
mustard. Stir well together. Chop the tarragon very finely. Add it to
the sauce.


Sauce Ravigote

  2 hard boiled yolks
  2 raw yolks
  1 dessert-spoon mustard
  Tarragon, shallot, parsley, chives
  Capers, gherkins
  Oil
  Vinegar

Pound and pass the hard boiled yolks through a sieve. Mix them
thoroughly with the raw yolk and mustard. Add oil as for mayonnaise
until the required quantity is made. Season. Add vinegar to taste and a
little very finely chopped tarragon, shallot, parsley, and chives. Just
before serving add a table-spoon capers and chopped gherkins.


Sauce Remoulade

  1 hard boiled yolk
  1 raw yolk
  1 coffee-spoon mustard
  1 large table-spoon chopped shallots, parsley and chervil
  Oil
  Vinegar

Put the hard boiled and raw yolk with the mustard in a basin. Mix
thoroughly with a wooden spoon. Add the oil very slowly, stirring
continually in one direction. The quantity of oil used depends on the
quantity of sauce required. Add a large table-spoon of finely chopped
parsley, chervil and shallots. A very little vinegar, salt and pepper.


THE END




Index


  Soups

  Artichoke Soup, 35.

  ” ”, 42.

  Asparagus, Purée of, 61.

  Asparagus Soup, 35.


  Bain Marie, 110.

  Barley Broth, 87.

  Beef Essence, 95.

  Beef Tea,--I., 95.

  ” ” II., 96.

  ” ” III., 96.

  Bisques, 78-80.

  Black Beans, Purée of, 62.

  Bouillabaisse, 82.

  Broad Beans, Purée of, 63.

  Broths, 87-92.

  Brown Bread Soup, 51.

  Brown Soup, 24.

  Brown Soup Stock, 7.

  Brunoise, 16.


  Calves’ Foot Broth, 97.

  Caramel Colouring, 13.

  Carrots, Purée of, 63.

  Carrot Soup, 42.

  Cauliflower Cream, 51.

  Cauliflower Soup, 36.

  Celery Cream, 43.

  Celery Soup, 36.

  Chestnut Soup, 37.

  Chicken Broth, 87.

  ” ”, 98.

  Chicken Custard, 98.

  Chicken Panada, 99.

  Chicken Soup, 57.

  Chicken Stock, 9.

  Chicken Tea, 100.

  Clarify, How to, 4.

  Clear Brown Stock, 8.

  Clear Soups, 16-22.

  Clear Soup with Quenelles, rice, etc., 22.

  Cockie Leekie, 88.

  Colouring for Soups, 13, 105.

  Common Stock, 7.

  Consommé, 9.

  ” with poached eggs, 16.

  Crab Bisque, 78.

  Cream of Pearl Barley, 25.

  Cream of Rice, 25.

  ” ” ” and Parmesan, 52.

  Croûte au pot, 17.

  ” ” ” Gratinée, 18.

  Croûtons, 104.

  Cucumber Soup, 52.

  Custards, 104.


  Dutch Soup, 53.


  Economical Stock, 10.

  Endive, Purée of, 64.


  Fat, How to remove, 3.

  Fire, Care of, 1.

  Fish Soups, 82-85.

  Fish Soup, 83.

  Flemish Soup, 53.

  Force-meat Balls, 105.

  Fowl, Purée of, 73.

  Fowl, Purée of, à la Reine Margot, 73.

  Friar’s Chicken, 54.


  Game Broth, 89.

  Game Panada, 99.

  Game Soup, 18.

  Giblet Soup, 26.

  Glaze, 14.

  Green colouring for Soups, 105.

  Green Pea Soup, 37.

  Green Peas, Purée of--I., 65.

  Green Peas, Purée of--II., 65.

  Green Peas, Purée of, Dried, 66.


  Hare, Purée of, 74.

  Hare Soup, 27.

  Hotch Potch, 90.


  Imperial Soup, 19.

  Invalid Broths and Soups, 95-101.

  Italian Dried Green Peas, Purée of, 66.

  Italian Macaroni Soup, 54.


  Julienne, 20.


  Left-over Soup, 28.

  Lentils, Purée of, 67.

  Liaison of cream and eggs, Soups made with, 51-58.

  Lobster Bisque, 78.


  Macaroni Soup (clear), 20.

  Macaroni Soup (Italian), 54.

  Macaroni Soup (Thick), 55.

  Meat Purées, 73-76.

  Mock Bisque, 44.

  Mock Turtle, 29.

  Mulligatawny, 30.

  Mushroom Soup, 38.

  Mutton Broth, 100.


  Onions, Purée of, 68.

  Ox-tail Soup, 31.

  Oyster Bisque, 79.

  Oyster Soup, 84.


  Pearl Barley, Cream of, 25.

  Pheasant, Purée of, 75.

  Polish Soup, 39.

  Portuguese Soup, 44.

  Potato Balls, 106.

  ” Broth, 90.

  ” Cream, 45.

  ” Soup, 46.

  Purées of Meat, 73-76.


  Quenelles, 106, 107.


  Rabbit, Purée of, 75.

  Rice, 107.

  Rice Balls, 108.

  Rice, Cream of, 25.

  Rice, Purée of, 68.

  Rice, Savoury, 108.

  Roux, 12.

  Russian Soup, 56.


  Salmon Soup, 84.

  Scotch Broth, 91.

  Seasoning, 3.

  Sheep’s Head Broth, 92.

  Sorrel Soup, 46.

  Spinach Colouring, 105.

  Spring Soup, 21.

  Stock, General Remarks, on, 1-5.

  Stocks, 7-11.

  Straining Soup, 4.

  Summer Soup, 47.


  Thickening for Soups, 12.

  Thick Soups, 24-33.

  Thick Vegetable Soups made with Stock, 35-39.

  Tomato Soup, 39.

  ” ”, 47.

  Turkish Soup, 56.

  Turnips, Purée of, 69.


  Veal Broth, 101.

  Veal Soup (White), 58.

  Veal Stock, 10.

  Vegetable Purées, 61-69.

  Vegetable Soups made with Stock, 35-39.

  Vegetable Soups without Stock, 42-47.

  Venison Soup, 33.

  Vermicelli, 22.


  Water Cress Soup, 57.

  White Chicken Soup, 57.

  White Veal Soup, 58.

  Winter Vegetables, Purée of, 69.


  Sauces

  Anchovy Butter, 137.

  Anchovy Sauce, 114.

  Apple Sauce, 126.


  Béchamel, 126.

  Black Butter, 112.

  Bread Sauce, 127.

  Brown Sauce, 118.


  Celery Sauce, 127.

  Cold Sauces, 137-141.

  Cream Sauce, 132.

  Cucumber Sauce, 114.

  ” ”, 118.

  Cullis, 118.


  Dutch Sauce, 112.


  Egg Sauce, 114.


  Fish Sauces, 112-116.


  Game Sauce, 132.

  Genoese Sauce, 113.

  German Sauce, 133.

  Gooseberry Sauce, 128.


  Horse-radish Sauce (cold), 137.

  Horse-radish Sauce (Dutch), 119.

  Hot Sauces for Fowls, Ducks, etc., 126-130.

  Hot Sauces for Game, 132-135.

  Hot Sauces for Roasts, 118-124.


  Italian Sauce, 113.


  Lemon Sauce, 128.


  Maître d’Hotel Sauce, 114.

  ” ” ”, 120.

  Mayonnaise Sauce, 138.

  Melted Butter, 114.

  Mint Sauce, 138.

  Mushroom Sauce, 121.


  Onion Sauce, 121.

  Orange Sauce, 134.

  Oyster Sauce, 115.


  Parsley Sauce, 129.


  Sauce Béarnaise, 122.

  ” for Chops and Steaks, 122.

  Sauce for Cold Fish, 139.

  Sauce Gaillarde, 139.

  ” Hollandaise, 115.

  ” Moutarde, 140.

  ” Piquante au Citron, 123.

  Sauce Poivrade, 134.

  ” Ravigote, 140.

  ” à la Reine, 129.

  ” Remoulade, 141.

  ” Robert, 123.

  ” Vinaigrette, 124.

  Shrimp Sauce, 114.

  Sour Cream Sauce, 135


  Tomato Sauce, 124.


  White Sauce, 130.


  PRINTED BY
  TURNBULL AND SPEARS,
  EDINBURGH