[Illustration: Perspective Sketch of Bungalow (with Attic)

(See Plate 17)

Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.]




                                COTTAGES
                                   OR
                      HINTS ON ECONOMICAL BUILDING

                               CONTAINING

            TWENTY-FOUR PLATES OF MEDIUM AND LOW COST HOUSES,
              CONTRIBUTED BY DIFFERENT NEW YORK ARCHITECTS.

                              TOGETHER WITH
                        DESCRIPTIVE LETTERPRESS,
                                 GIVING
               PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS FOR COTTAGE BUILDING.

                         COMPILED AND EDITED BY
                         A. W. BRUNNER, ARCH’T.

                            TO WHICH IS ADDED

                              A CHAPTER ON

            THE WATER SUPPLY, DRAINAGE, SEWERAGE, HEATING AND
                VENTILATION, AND OTHER SANITARY QUESTIONS
                       RELATING TO COUNTRY HOUSES.

                                   BY
                         WM. PAUL GERHARD, C. E.

                                  1884.
                                NEW YORK:
                          WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK,
                             6 ASTOR PLACE.

                               COPYRIGHT,
                                  1884.
                          WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK.




[Illustration: Preface]


The aim of this little book is simply to offer a few hints and
suggestions to those about to build, or those interested in building, and
to present a series of designs of low-cost cottages.

These designs were made, by request, by different New York architects who
have turned their attention to the subject. In view of the rapid growth
of “Art Ideas,” and the great improvement in taste that has taken place
during the last few years, it is believed that there is a demand for
dwellings reasonable in cost yet artistic and home-like.




ARCHITECTS WHOSE DESIGNS ARE CONTAINED IN THIS BOOK.


    Mr. WM. A. BATES,                149 Broadway, New York.
    Mr. CHAS. I. BERG,           152 Fifth Avenue, New York.
    Mr. A. W. BRUNNER,            29 Union Square, New York.
    Mr. JAS. D. HUNTER, Jr.,          57 Broadway, New York.
    Mess. ROSSITER & WRIGHT,         149 Broadway, New York.
    Mr. THOS. TRYON,             152 Fifth Avenue, New York.
    Mr. WM. B. TUTHILL,               52 Broadway, New York.
    Mr. FRANK F. WARD,             59 Astor House, New York.
    Mr. FRED. B. WHITE,              294 Broadway, New York.




[Illustration: Cottages

HINTS ON ECONOMICAL BUILDING]


I.

During the past few years our conception of what a country house should
be, has entirely changed. Simplicity, elegance and refinement of design
are demanded, and outward display, overloading with cheap ornamentation,
is no longer in favor.

Naturally the more expensive houses were the first to get the benefit of
the architectural inspiration drawn largely from England. But now that
English gables and dormers have spread so widely, now that we realize the
beauty of our own colonial architecture, and that the Queen Anne craze
is subsiding, so that only its best features remain, the less ambitious
dwellings must not be left to the mercy of those builders whose ideas of
beauty are limited to scroll-saw brackets and French roofs. It is our
intention, in presenting a number of designs for country houses, to show
what can be done with simple means, and to give sketches of cottages that
may meet the wants of many who desire inexpensive homes which shall be at
the same time cosy and picturesque.

It must be stated, however, that all we can hope to do in the compass
of this little volume is to give some hints on building and offer a few
suggestions and ideas which may be of value to those about to build. It
is by no means claimed that the drawings here given are sufficient for
constructing the houses. Proper working drawings are a much more serious
affair, and should in all cases be prepared by an architect. This is as
important for a cottage as for a mansion.

It seems hardly necessary to enlarge upon the importance of an
architect’s services, since that is now generally recognized. Sensible
people, when they are ill, consult a physician and not an apothecary; and
when they wish to plan a house, they take the advice of an architect and
not a builder. Both apothecary and builder are of course necessary, but
they must be wisely directed or they may be dangerous indeed.

In this “intensely new world,” as Matthew Arnold calls it, we have not
yet had time to pay much attention to our simpler kind of dwellings. One
can say but little for the majority of our cottages beyond that they give
us shelter from the sun, rain and wind. The quaint interest, the great
beauty of old European towns, are so marked, that we would do well to
remember that each of the houses in their picturesque old streets was
evidently built to suit the special tastes and requirements of its owner.
At present, the fashion is set; and, while it lasts, all cottages are
built to suit. The fashion changes and the next batch of cottages must
come up to the new standard. Now, ready-made houses, like ready-made
clothes, _may_ fit, but the conditions of house-planning are complex and
the requirements are many and varied. The house in which we live should
have some individuality, and not be a mere duplicate of our neighbor’s
dwelling. We do not care to confess that we are exactly like other
people. Of course we are not. We may not wish to be considered eccentric
or “funny,” but we do flatter ourselves that we have some ideas of our
own; so our home, if it is to be a home, must be planned just to suit our
habits. Regarding the exterior appearance, that, to a certain extent at
least, will proclaim both the disposition of the interior and its inmates.

Now the intelligent client will of course consult a competent architect,
but being intelligent, he and Mrs. Client will first talk it all over
very carefully, and after discussing the matter thoroughly will decide
upon just what they need. When a decision has been arrived at, they will
go to Mr. Architect and tell him their wants, and he will proceed, to the
best of his ability, to solve the problem. This solution he presents in
the form of plans, elevations and sections, which is his way of showing
how he intends to fulfill the conditions imposed. But Mr. and Mrs. Client
may not find it such an easy matter to decide upon what they ought to
have. Building a house is generally a new experience, and many and vexed
are the questions that arise. Being a bright, well-informed couple, with
ideas of their own, they wisely decide to think it out for themselves and
not to tell the disciple of Sir Christopher Wren to make them “something
real pretty—you know what we want—and we’ll call to-morrow to see the
drawings.”

No, they know better than that. It is for them to say _what_ they want;
and _how_ it is to be done, is the architect’s province. So, to help
the worthy couple in their deliberations, we will mention some of the
points to be considered in building a country home, only touching upon
them, however; for volumes might be, and indeed have been, written on the
numberless considerations that present themselves. A little thought and
time spent before commencing to build may avoid a great deal of trouble
and regret when it is too late to effect alterations. Even when the
house is in the course of erection, changes are unduly expensive, as one
deviation from the plans is likely to entail another. The superficial
knowledge people have of their own houses is often surprising, and it
would be well for Mrs. Client to examine critically her present dwelling,
while Mr. C. takes a few measurements of some of the rooms. This will
bring their ideas of dimensions to a more definite shape and greatly aid
them to fully understand a set of plans.


II.

The first thing to be decided is where the cottage shall be placed. For
a castle in Spain, any picturesque spot would do, nor need we choose it
until our castle is quite complete. But for a real house, one that will
keep out the cold and keep in the heat, one that will be comfortable to
live in and presumably beautiful to look at, one that is subject to many
practical as well as artistic conditions, we will proceed to select the
prettiest piece of ground in the healthiest neighborhood we can find.

Healthy—of course. Better not build at all than make our house the
abiding-place of malaria. So we will carefully avoid marshy or
ill-drained ground. Sandy or gravelly soil is good. Clay is bad. A
side-hill has many advantages and affords opportunity for something
picturesque. We need not fear it, for a broad trench dug deep as our
cellar, and running obliquely back of the house, will leave us high and
dry. If we are sensible rather than ambitious, we will not choose the
summit of a hill. Sooner be a little lower down on the slope, securing
shelter from the wind and a readier water supply. The question of site
is an important one, and much depends on a wise selection. Even a small
lot offers some choice, and a few feet in either direction may avoid damp
cellars and future fevers.

But if we have a wider choice, let us exercise it well, and secure a
position where we can study nature in her varying moods and enjoy her
beauty. Let us be surrounded by meadows and flowers and trees. Trees by
all means. Not too near, or we may shut out sunlight and secure dampness
instead; but trees are good neighbors, and we owe them grateful shade in
summer and shelter from winter storms. A stately oak and a few graceful
maples, or perhaps some faithful evergreens, will take away the barren
and forlorn appearance a house often presents when standing quite alone.
A little terracing and grading, besides helping to shed the surface
water, often give the building the appearance of being well and firmly
placed.

Care will of course be taken to see that an abundant supply of pure water
is obtainable; to decide its quality a few preliminary borings should be
made.

Having roughly chosen the position and driven a stake in the site, we
must decide in which direction our house shall face. The living rooms
should look to the south or south-east, as they will be cooler in summer,
receiving the southern breezes, and warmer in winter—and always cheerful.
Next to a southern exposure an eastern one is best. We must consider how
the grounds shall be laid out, the approaches to the house, position of
the public road, and proximity of objectionable neighbors. Our friend
Mr. Architect will want to know all this and more too. He will ask you
from what directions come the prevailing winds, what is the character
of the scenery, and whether there is any choice of prospect, or our pet
view will stand in danger of being wasted on blank walls, or visible only
from the kitchen. Then, after telling him how much we wish to spend, he
will be in a condition intelligently to go to work and plan the house. A
thorough understanding between architect and client is most desirable.


III.

“A history of house-planning is the history of civilization, one of
the best means by which we can realize the social condition and family
life of successive times,” says Stephenson in his interesting book on
House Architecture. The gradual change in the arrangement of dwellings
indicates most clearly the development of what we call civilized ideas.

In all important houses in the Middle Ages, the Hall, which was
frequently an immense apartment, was the chief feature. To quote
Stephenson again, “It was in reality the house, and hence (in England)
country houses are still called Halls.” The ends were screened off by
wooden partitions, the kitchen at one side, the private apartments at
the other. The Hall was used as a dining-room and sitting-room, and the
household would sleep there, both tables and beds being movable. Later,
the tendency arose to have separate apartments for different purposes,
and the number of rooms in a house multiplied. In modern planning strict
privacy is essential, and each room must be accessible from the halls and
stairways. As soon as a room becomes a mere passage to another, it loses
its chief value. The arrangement of a house is, to a certain degree,
influenced by considerations of exterior effect, but use and comfort are
of prime importance. In the so-called “classic” houses, where symmetry
was imperative, convenience of plan was often sacrificed.

A well-studied plan is characterized by compactness and the absence of
any visible make-shifts or after-thoughts. Everything fits well and seems
in its natural place.

A rectangular house is the cheapest and best, the octagonal and circular
forms are better adapted for bays or projections only. Very irregular
and straggling plans may produce picturesque results, but are sure to be
comparatively expensive. A square house has always been a favorite with
many practical-minded people. It is such a “sensible” shape and cuts up
well into rooms. True, a given length of line, as a square, encloses
a greater area than in any other rectangular form, so we get the most
house for our materials and money. Still, we will probably find that,
after arranging our plan, considering comfort and convenience alone,
it will not result in a mathematical square; but, if it be compact and
capable of being simply roofed, we need not reproach ourselves with undue
extravagance.

All space occupied in passages and corridors, increasing the size but not
the capacity of the building, is wasted.

Light and air are, we know, essentials of life. Let us not forget it in
planning our house. Dark passages and stairways should not be tolerated.

In our cities, where land is very expensive, and the houses which often
cover nearly the entire building lot are crowded closely together, many
expedients have to be adopted to render the inner rooms habitable.
Light-shafts are used, and rooms often receive only borrowed light by
means of glass doors or partitions. In country houses these methods are
inexcusable. Fresh air and the light of day should have access to every
nook and corner.


IV.

In our modern houses the hall is generally a mere narrow passage
connecting the rooms, and only large enough to contain the staircase.
Lately there has been a tendency to give the hall greater prominence;
and, as many of the plans in this book show, it may be made a most
desirable sitting-room, by adding a few feet to what before was almost
waste space. It may have an open fire-place and some little nook arranged
with a seat. The stairs may be partly or wholly screened, a treatment
giving opportunities for a picturesque effect. Let us have plenty of
light on our staircase, and plan it so that even at night one is not
liable to stumble. “Winders,” that is to say, steps which radiate at
the corners, are to be avoided as much as possible, for it is easy to
slip on the narrow end. Do not try to have your stairs in a single run.
Platforms, which should be square, form a convenient rest. For ordinary
stairs the risers may be 7½ inches, and treads 10 inches. If the risers
are less, the treads must be proportionally greater. The old rule of a 6
inch riser and 12 inch tread is almost too luxurious, and when the risers
are less than 6 inches they become actually uncomfortable and tiresome.
If newels are used, as they are in the better class of work, have the
tops rounded, and let there be no sharp angles that would be disagreeable
to the touch.

The dining-room should have an eastern or north-eastern exposure, so that
it may receive the cheerful rays of the morning sun. A western outlook is
undesirable, for at sunset the “western waves of ebbing day” will flood
the apartment, making it necessary to close the shutters, excluding the
air and leaving the room in darkness. 11 feet in width is sufficient to
admit of chairs on both sides of the table, with space for a servant to
pass around, but a larger room is desirable.

The kitchen should be near the dining-room. It may be in the basement,
and if the house is on a side hill this is a good arrangement, as the
kitchen may then be entirely above ground. In some of the Southern
States it is the custom to separate the kitchen entirely from the house,
thereby avoiding all the smell and heat of cooking. It is a good plan
for summer cottages to have the kitchen in a wing by itself, even if
not disconnected with the rest of the house. In a small house, where
the dining-room and kitchen must be placed next to each other, a pantry
with doors not opposite each other, between the rooms, will do much to
intercept odors and noises.

A sitting-room or living-room should be bright and cheerful. Let it have
the benefit of any good view that the situation of the house may command.
Give it broad, generous windows, admitting plenty of light and sunshine.
Sunshine may not be good for the carpets, but you are not building the
house for them, and the health and cheerfulness of the inmates are the
first consideration. If carpets will fade we may use matting, which is
now obtainable in good designs and excellent colors. Or let us have good
honest wood floors oiled or waxed, for they need not be very expensive.
Then with a pretty rug, perhaps, in the middle of the room, we secure
greater cleanliness than is possible with a carpet, and need not be
afraid of the light of day, two points which should help to decrease our
doctors’ bills. In providing for light it is better to have one large
window than two small ones. A broad casement with a window-seat, or a
three-sided or semi-circular bay, with room for a few flowers, or perhaps
a small work-table and chairs, will be a delightful feature.

In the pride of our heart we may want a parlor, or drawing-room, as our
English cousins would call it.

Well, let us have it if we must, for hospitality is a virtue to be
cherished. But true hospitality consists in giving our friends what we
deem to be our best. Now a parlor that is kept for state occasions and
is such a prim, formal room, that everything in it is too awfully nice
to touch, is not a place where true friendship is likely to flourish. If
we need another apartment for our guests, let it merely be an extension
of our sitting-room. The room we occupy most will be the pleasantest in
the house, as we will naturally surround ourselves with the objects we
love best. But the spirit of cheerfulness and cosiness should pervade the
entire house, and the selection we make of books, pictures and ornaments,
will do much towards giving a room a friendly or unfriendly aspect.

In a large country-house a separate room for a library is convenient,
also a breakfast or morning-room, and a billiard-room, is a luxury to be
enjoyed, if possible. If we can manage it, a nursery, where the children
can make a noise and have a real good time without shocking anybody’s
nerves, will be found a great comfort. Give the little ones space, where
they can romp to their hearts’ content, a large, sunny room, with broad
windows and a big fire-place, a room with nothing in it that will spoil
by contact with little hands, and you will contribute much to their
happiness.

If we can contrive a little retreat or “den” in some out-of-the-way
corner of the house, it may be well, for, although man is a social
animal, “solitude sometimes is best society.”

Many of us will appreciate a little sanctum entered by one door only,
where we can leave our books and papers, having the sweet satisfaction
that they will remain undisturbed.

The bed-rooms should be specially light, airy and well ventilated.
Space must be left for the bed, a consideration which, if overlooked in
the plan, may make it necessary to put the bed in front of a window or
against a closet door.

The arrangement of doors and windows requires particular attention, and a
little care in regard to this will contribute much to comfort. A certain
amount of wall-surface should always be left, or there will be no place
to put the furniture—a fault often found in our houses, and productive
of much discomfort. Every bed-room should have a closet, and, indeed, an
abundance of closets is necessary, it being hardly possible to have too
many of them. One for coats, in the front hall, one for linen, one for
stores, and a good-sized pantry for the kitchen, are dear to the heart of
a housekeeper.

No house should be without a bath-room, large and conveniently located.
Care must be taken that the plumbing apparatus is not exposed to the
cold, or the pipes will freeze in winter. The matter of ventilation
and construction of the plumbing work, is ably discussed in a separate
article devoted to that and other sanitary questions.


V.

Doors are generally hung according to the sweet will of the carpenter,
but there are two ways to hang a door, one so as to expose the room,
the other so as to screen it. The first may be good for the more public
rooms, but, in regard to bed-rooms, the doors must swing so that, when
partly open, they will shield the apartment from view. Closet doors
should be hung so that the closet may receive light from the nearest
window. Doors are sometimes made to swing out on stair landings or halls,
and who has not seen two doors so placed that they strike each other when
opened? It is hardly necessary to say that these methods should not be
adopted.

The question of how to heat a house is discussed at length elsewhere,
but from the point of beauty, cheerfulness and comfort, we must enter
a plea for the open fire-place. It may be troublesome to keep clean,
although this may be obviated by an ash-shoot to the cellar. We admit
that the open fire-place is wasteful, as two-thirds of the heat goes up
the chimney. And then most of the foul air in the room goes with it,
and we have the best and surest ventilating flue yet devised. But the
cheerful appearance, the crackling of the logs, the sparkling embers,
the ruddy flames twisting themselves into fantastic shapes—are these
worth nothing to us? Contrast a roaring fire of hickory logs, blazing on
a broad brick hearth, with the dismal hole in the floor or wall covered
with a cast-iron register. The cricket on the hearth is a little out of
fashion now, and with it has gone the sense of comfort that the broad,
picturesque chimney-piece always gave. Open fire-places alone are often
insufficient in our climate, and furnaces are extremely useful for
heating the halls and the house generally; but to rely on their heat
entirely excludes one of the features which make home more home-like.
The fire-place should be in a position so as to admit of a group sitting
around it; it should not stand between two doors, for instance. A
little nook or seat may be contrived next to it, making a cosy corner
in the room. Chimney-stacks can be combined if the house be judiciously
planned, and a saving of expense effected. The plans in Plates VI, X and
XVII, show how one stack can serve three rooms on the same floor with
fire-places, and in the case of the double houses all the designs show
that this method of saving expense has been adopted. Chimneys must be
carefully built of good, hard brick, laid in cement mortar, the flues
straight and smooth and of uniform size. To allow of better arrangement
in the upper floors, the flues may be safely drawn on one side to at
least 30° from the perpendicular. There must always be at least 8 inches
of brick work when the chimney-stack comes in contact with any wood-work.

Every house should have a cellar with stone or brick walls and cement
floors. And it is of the utmost importance that the cellar be dry. To
insure this, the greatest care should be given to the _outside_ finish
of the walls—reversing the usual practice of carefully finishing the
interior, and on the exterior allowing the rough edges of stone to
project and form little courses and channels through which the moisture
will pass. In case the cellar extends only under part of the house, the
rest of the walls should be supported upon brick piers, only filled
in between with wooden lattice, giving free access to the air, thus
preventing dampness and rotting of timbers.

If the reader desires to study construction, or intends to superintend
the building of his own house, he cannot do better than consult Mr. T. M.
Clark’s book on “Building Superintendence.” The standard of workmanship
that it gives may be a little too high for cheap work, otherwise it is an
extremely useful volume.


VI.

Planning has been called a series of compromises, and in fact we will
nearly always find it impossible to secure all we desire. Something
must be sacrificed, and the best plan is the one that fulfills the most
important requirements at the expense of the minor ones. After securing
the proper relative arrangement of rooms, their exposure may be wrong,
or the chimneys will not combine. We secure an economical combination of
chimneys and find that the doors come “all wrong,” and the staircase is
crowded to one side. Then the shape of the rooms is ugly, the veranda
seems only possible in front of the kitchen, the entrance porch faces the
north, and there is no way of getting to the cellar.

These little difficulties overcome, we find that we cannot get up-stairs,
and even if we could, the rooms in the upper floors come just as we do
not want them, and the hall will be dark. Then we will begin all over
again. The amateur must not be disheartened if this is the result of
his first attempt to plan a house. The best and seemingly most simple
arrangement of rooms is generally the result of the most study.

In planning, as in many other things, the simplest is often the best,
and what appears so satisfactory and looks as if it were quite the
most obvious thing to do, was probably arrived at only after much
consideration and thought.

Irregularities in our plan may be turned to account and picturesque and
useful features result, but they must come naturally and not be forced,
or they will give the appearance of striving to be eccentric.

It is a comparatively easy matter to plan a house which is intended
exclusively for summer or for winter occupancy. But in those sections of
the country where we have successively samples of every conceivable kind
of weather, and we wish to build a permanent residence, the difficulties
are numerous.

During part of the year we need broad verandas, large windows and doors
so arranged that we can get a current of air through the rooms. The heat
from the kitchen distresses us, and the refrigerator is regarded with
more affection than the fireplace. In a few months the veranda only
serves to shut out the precious sunlight, and double sashes for the
windows may be desirable to keep out the cold too easily admitted by the
doors. We draw close to the hearth, piled high with blazing logs, and
rejoice that the slight heat from the kitchen chimney is not wasted on
the outer air.

Fortunately, what keeps out the heat keeps out the cold—or rather keeps
in the heat—and walls constructed so as to keep the house warm in winter
will keep it cool in summer.

The veranda is a particularly American feature, and should be encouraged,
not only because it is American, but because it is a great comfort and
a sensible contrivance. Let it be broad and low, to keep out the sun’s
rays; let it be large enough for plenty of chairs and a work table, and
perhaps a rattan sofa or a hammock, and during the long summer months it
will be a most delightful retreat.

Even in winter the veranda serves to keep the wind, sleet and snow from
our windows, and so contributes a little warmth if it does rob us of some
sunlight. It can be so constructed that it may be enclosed in winter, but
it is difficult to heat, even if the cellar extended beneath it.


VII.

Materials of all kinds have been used for building, but for our purpose
only stone, brick and wood are suitable, and mud, papier-maché, glass,
iron, and many others need not be considered. Stone is the favorite for
all monumental buildings, but it may be occasionally used to advantage
in low-cost country houses. If it must be brought from a distance, and
is to be cut, tooled and dressed, it will be much beyond the average
cottager’s means. But when found in the immediate vicinity and laid in
irregular courses “just as it comes,” with the corners squared off only
enough to make good joints, we shall get excellent effects without great
expense. It is well to use it only for the first story of the house, as
shown on Plate XII. If cut stone lintels and jambs are too costly, we
may use brick, either red or buff, selecting the one which harmonizes
best with the color of the stone. The doors and windows in this case will
be arched and not square-headed. Stone walls need not be very thick—18
inches will be ample—and they need not be damp if properly furred,
leaving an airspace.

Frequently use large stones, the entire thickness of the wall, as
“binders,” and leave the natural surface as much as possible. Then, if
the stones are well selected, we shall have a beautiful surface, whose
color, softened by that of mosses and lichens, and partly covered by the
creeping ivy, will become more beautiful and mellow with age.

Brick is a most valuable building material, wonderfully durable, as the
remains of the old Roman buildings testify, and fire-proof, as often
demonstrated. To the minds of many, brick suggests all the ugliness
of the immense crop of buildings that has sprung up in our American
cities—buildings with wondrous painted and sanded cornices and window
caps, with a front pierced with regularly spaced square-headed openings.
But the builder and not the material is at fault, for as countless
European examples show us, brick can be used with most excellent effect.
Bricks are now made in many shapes, and good mouldings can be obtained
for cornices, belt courses, etc.

Then terra-cotta, which is nothing more than its name implies, baked
earth, or brick in other forms, comes to our aid, and we have ornamental
panels, columns, pilasters, voussoirs and all sorts of architectural
finery. For small cottages we may use brick laid in red mortar, combining
it with wood, and perhaps some of the simpler mouldings, with a
terra-cotta panel or two, to give character to the design.

Wood is the material that will commend itself, as being the cheapest for
building country houses, needing only a light foundation and being easily
handled. The old “half timbered” houses give us suggestions for a most
picturesque treatment. In these buildings the frame is exposed and filled
in with brick or stucco, producing an excellent effect. In the north of
France, where rain is abundant, the exposed wood is sometimes covered
with slate. This method of construction is adapted to our climate, but
brick is better for filling in than plaster or stucco, which is likely
to be affected by our severe frosts. Clapboards and shingles are both
excellent. The shingles may be cut in different shapes, or irregularly
laid, giving a variety of surface. Tiles, which are more durable but more
expensive, may be substituted. Battened houses, that is, houses faced
with vertical boards, the joints of which are covered by narrow strips of
wood or “battens,” are not recommended.


VIII.

The first four plates in this book show designs for the simplest kind
of cottages. Strict economy has been observed, and the arrangement is
as compact as possible, no space being wasted. The first has two rooms
on a floor—the living-room containing the stairs. The roof is unbroken,
overhanging enough to cover the bay, and merely extending to form the
porch. Plates II, III and IV show a separate hall for the stairs, and
closets and pantry are provided. In one case the upper floor contains
two large rooms, in the others, four smaller chambers. Plate III shows
the kitchen and living-room separated by a pantry with two doors, and
in the next design, communication between these rooms is had through
the hall, an arrangement quite suitable for such a small house. Nothing
could be plainer, or more straight-forward, than the plans and exterior
treatment of these four cottages, and the result is interesting in
showing that even the simplest house may be planned with some reference
to comfort, and a pleasing exterior expression attained without the least
ornamentation.

Plates V, VI and VII, give designs for slightly larger cottages, with
three rooms on the first floor. The roofs are boldly treated, and in
Plate V we see the picturesque effect obtained by an exterior chimney.
This design also shows an effective treatment of windows in the
sitting-room, and a broad low veranda covered by a continuation of the
main roof. Designs VI and VII are two six-room cottages very compactly
planned; the exteriors show clapboards on the first-story, and shingles
above.

Plate VIII gives a cottage without a kitchen (there is space for it
if desired), which may be built in connection with a hotel. This is
becoming a favorite way of living during the summer, the inmates of the
cottage taking their meals at the hotel, and thus much of the trouble of
housekeeping is avoided. Several of the plans in this book could be used
in a similar way; the space for kitchen devoted to other uses or omitted
entirely. In this plan the two rooms on the first floor open into each
other, making practically one large airy apartment, which, with the shady
veranda in front, is an arrangement well adapted for warm weather.

In Plate IX we have a small seven-room house. The sitting-room has a
large fire-place with seats at the side, screened by an arch or transom,
and making a pleasant little nook.

Plate X is a design of a picturesque cottage which shows in plan a nearly
square hall with a fire-place, opening into a broad piazza. At a little
extra expense the small bed-room on the second floor could be made
wider, or a bath-room added to advantage.

The plan of Plate XI provides an entrance hall or vestibule, which will
be of special use if the house is occupied in winter. The side door opens
into the end of the main hall, and the arrangement of rooms is well
studied. The overhanging gables have a bold effect, and the materials
used are the same as in nearly all the preceding designs.

Plate XII gives plans and elevations for a house, the first story
of which is to be built of stone—the second of wood. The stone is
irregularly laid, the rough surface contrasting well with the shingles
above. The plan provides for six good-sized rooms with plenty of closets.

In Plate XIII we have a house planned so that the two main rooms on each
floor are exposed on three sides, an arrangement which, if the size and
shape of the lot permits, is good for a summer residence. The treatment
of exterior also indicates this use.

Plate XIV gives a design for a seven-room cottage, with a wide hall and
a bath-room. The kitchen is conveniently placed, both in regard to the
dining-room and front door. The balcony in the second story adds to the
exterior effect by giving more shadow to the front.

Plate XV is a design for a sea-side cottage. The hall is so arranged that
the stairs are screened, thus making a little vestibule. The dining-room
and parlor are only divided by an arch, and may be separated by a
portière or thrown into one large room, while the veranda gives the shade
so desirable at the sea-shore.

Plate XVI shows a picturesque house broadly treated. The second story
overhangs the first, covering the piazza. The rooms are large and of good
proportion, and each bed-room has its closet.

Bungalows, as the one-story houses used in India are called, seem adapted
to some parts of America, particularly as summer cottages.

Plate XVII and the frontispiece show a house which will commend itself to
those who dislike going up and down stairs. This plan provides a hall,
dining-room and kitchen, each with its fire-place and closet, and three
bed-rooms. The door of the bath-room and that of the bed-room opposite
are misplaced, and should open into the corridor. There is a small
stairway to the attic, where there is space for dormitories, if desired.
The construction of this sort of house is so simple, and the foundation
may be so light, that it will cost but a trifle more than if the rooms
were arranged in the ordinary way. The bungalow here given is very simply
treated, the roof being only broken for the outlook from the attic, and
extending to cover the veranda.

Plate XVIII shows a house suitable for an ordinary “fifty-foot suburban
lot.” The entrance hall is divided by an arch and book-cases, making
an agreeable sitting-room or library. The second story contains three
bed-rooms and a bath-room. There are accommodations in the attic for
servants.

Plate XIX is a design for a cottage on a side hill, with the kitchen in
the basement. The projection of the stairs in the main hall gives place
for a seat opposite the fire-place, and may be made a cosy little corner.
The dining-room, hall and sitting-room, open into each other.

The last four Plates are designs for double or “semi-detached” houses.
If, instead of building single houses, two persons will combine,
adopting some arrangement such as these designs show, they will effect
a considerable saving of expense. The houses, although receiving light
and air only on three sides, are bright and comfortable. Privacy is not
destroyed, as the entrance porches are separated, and windows placed so
as to avoid looking from one house to the other.

The exterior treatment in Designs XX and XXI seems to indicate more
clearly than the others that they are double houses, while Nos. XXII
and XXIII, though not concealing this fact, have more the air of large
single houses. This is a nice question of “expression” which our readers
may decide for themselves.

These drawings show different architects’ conceptions of what small and
medium-sized cottages should be. They differ greatly from each other,
both in plan and exterior design, but the general expression seems to
be much the same. They are not pretentious, and no ornament exists for
its own sake. Chimneys and roofs are boldly and frankly treated, and a
certain breadth and hospitality are expressed by nearly all. Only a few
of their special features have been mentioned, a fuller description being
deemed unnecessary.


IX.

It will be noticed in all these designs that whatever grace or charm
they may have is the result of the simplest treatment. A building should
be logically designed, and the exterior be the natural expression of
the plan. This is what is meant by Truth in Architecture. But just how
much need be expressed, is not always clear. A proper regard for our
architectural morals does not require us to exhibit to the passer-by
every detail of construction and arrangement. Only what _is_ shown must
be _true_. A building ought at least to declare its purpose, which should
be recognizable at a glance. But a house may well express more than the
fact that it is a house. It may have a pretentious and showy appearance,
or be modest and unassuming. It may look cheerful and hospitable, or cold
and forbidding.

Now, for a cottage to be pretentious is in bad taste. It need not be
so humble as to nestle among the violets, but it can assert itself
sufficiently without being decked with tawdry ornaments, or the vanity of
cupola or towers.

On the other hand, it would be equally false for a large mansion which
should have an air of dignity and magnificence to attempt to assume a
simple, rustic appearance. Indeed, Southey informs us that the devil’s
“favorite sin is the pride that apes humility.” Proportion—that is, the
relation of parts to each other and to the whole, is the most important
element of beauty in architecture. This has been the subject of much
discussion and controversy. The parts of a building having a certain
mathematical relation to each other, numerous attempts have been made
to formulate this and establish reliable rules for the guidance of the
designer. All the theories, however, are conflicting; notwithstanding
that most of them are proved by their authors to apply directly to the
Parthenon, which

    “Earth proudly wears...
    As the best gem in her zone.”

It seems that the sense of proportion, like an eye for color or an ear
for music, is an innate quality possessed by some and lacked by others;
and that it is as impossible to design a building as to make a musical
composition by mathematical rules.

Beauty alone is not sufficient to constitute architectural excellence.
Architecture is the art of building, and utility is the first
consideration. If the architect be an artist, endowed with an
appreciation of form and color, he will so combine the materials at his
command that he will produce a building at once useful and beautiful.
Exterior ornament should be sparingly used on cottages, and, if at all,
should be so employed as to emphasize the design. But it seems more
sensible in an economical dwelling to keep the exterior quite simple.
While we should not inflict our neighbors with an ugly house, we will not
be open to the charge of selfishness if we choose the extravagance of
a daintily carved oak mantel in our sitting-room to that of ornamented
brackets and posts on the veranda.


X.

In these designs for cottages it will be observed that there has been no
attempt made to adhere to any historical style. And this, we believe,
shows a greater appreciation of the beauties of architectural styles than
if they had been misapplied and tortured into what once was known as
“Rural Gothic” or “Italian.”

After defining architecture to be “the material expression of the wants,
faculties, and the sentiments of the age in which it is created,” Owen
Jones, in his “Grammar of Ornament,” said that “Style in architecture
is the peculiar form that expression takes under the influence of
climate and the material at hand.” Accepting this definition, we see
the absurdity of copying buildings erected under totally different
conditions from ours. Although an Italian villa is more adaptable to our
wants than a Greek temple (and our country-houses have often copied both
with lamentable results) it does not readily submit to be Americanized.
Italy may give us suggestions, and France, England and Germany offer
us many and valuable ones, but in adapting them to our country houses
we must show discrimination. And our own wants and sentiments, if well
and naturally expressed, take forms that are not displeasing, even if
Corinthian columns and Gothic arches are absent.

The question of color is an important one, as an unfortunate selection
may spoil the (otherwise) prettiest house. We have discovered that
considerations of cleanliness do not require us to paint our houses
white, which, even with the addition of green shutters, is hardly
satisfactory. The staring, conspicuous effect of these white houses is
what we should avoid, and the tints we choose must be those that will
blend harmoniously with the surrounding landscape. The pearly gray that
shingles become after exposure to the atmosphere has a very good effect
if relieved by contrast with some other color. A good treatment is to
give the house a coat of crude petroleum, and, if desired, a transparent
stain may be mixed with it which will show the grain of the wood. A range
of soft yellows, reds and browns, may be so obtained. Messrs. Rossiter
and Wright have published a book entitled “Modern House Painting,” which
gives excellent directions and examples.


XI.

If we strive to give to the exterior of our houses a pleasing appearance,
how much more reason is there to beautify the interior.

It has been claimed that pretty and comfortable homes exert a decided
moral influence. Be this as it may, we are all interested in making our
homes attractive. And there is no reason why they should not be so. We
are apt to think that costly things must be beautiful, but this is by
no means true, nor is it true that inexpensive objects must be ugly.
The same materials used in the construction and decoration of an ugly
apartment might, with the exercise of a little taste, be so employed that
a graceful combination result.

Low ceilings give an air of comfort, while very high ones have a cold and
barren effect, and increase the cost of the house.

The ventilation of a room should be quite independent of the height
of its ceiling, that is to say, a room with a low ceiling may be
well ventilated, and one with a high ceiling may gain nothing by the
extra height but greater facilities for retaining poisonous gases and
foul air. Gwilt gives as a rule that the height of the ceiling of a
rectangular room should be the same as the width of the room; but since
the apartments on a floor are of unequal size and the ceiling commonly
of the same height throughout, no such proportion can be kept. Nor is it
necessary for a small cottage. From 9 to 10 feet is ample for the first
story rooms.

The proportion of a room may be modified by the treatment of its walls.
Vertical lines give an appearance of greater height, and horizontal
lines make a room look lower. Accordingly, the division of a wall into
horizontal bands by means of the dado and frieze, now in such favor, has
a tendency to make a room look lower than it really is. This division,
however, is a good one. The dado is simply a substitute of a cheaper
material for a paneled wainscot of wood. The wooden base board and
chair-rail should be retained, as they serve to protect the wall. A broad
frieze is an excellent decorative feature. It should be separated from
the wall surface by a picture-moulding from which the pictures will hang.

The excavations at Pompeii have shown many beautiful examples of
harmonious wall decoration. The walls are divided by dado and frieze, the
dado being generally darker and the frieze lighter, than the intermediate
surface. We will do well to follow this arrangement even if we do not
adopt the Pompeian colors.

If the plaster is finished with a rough surface (sand finish) it takes
color well, and makes a satisfactory wall. Within the last few years,
wall-papers have been manufactured which are good in design and low in
cost. Many of them, printed in two tones of the same color, are delicate,
and make good backgrounds for pictures. Being delicate and quiet does not
necessarily mean that the paper must be gray and colorless. It may have
a decided color, and still harmonize well with the pictures and other
objects in the room.

Dark red matting used for a dado gives a most satisfactory effect. It may
be continuous or divided in panels by narrow strips of wood.

Cartridge or ingrain-paper is now made in excellent colors, and is a good
substitute for printed wall-papers. To break the flat surface a stencil
pattern may be traced on it, or this may be done directly on the plaster,
which must first be colored.

A good ceiling is made of simple felting-paper in lieu of plaster; the
paper divided into small panels by narrow beaded strips of wood.

Lincrusta-Walton is a valuable material for some choice bit of decoration.

For door and window trims and other interior woodwork, white pine is
recommended, as it is the cheapest, and, if properly finished, looks very
well.

It may be stained, if too light—the transparent stains merely darken the
wood and do not conceal the natural grain. Under no circumstances try to
imitate oak or walnut by graining. Such shams deceive no one and are in
the worst taste. If we use paint for interior work let us use it frankly,
carefully selecting the color, and avoiding a shiny surface, a flatted or
dull finish being preferable.

We have a great variety of wood to choose from, if not limited in
expense, but “hard woods,” such as cherry, oak, mahogany, etc., not only
are expensive in themselves, but require more labor. Ash is the cheapest
of them. If some of the patent “fillers” are used, an excellent surface
may be given to the wood, but these require to be finished with shellac,
and carefully rubbed down. For cheap work, two coats of boiled oil may be
used; or, if a polished surface is desired, varnish may be substituted.

Our fire-places may be of brick laid in red mortar, with wooden shelves,
and perhaps lightly framed with wood. Tiles are appropriate for facings
and hearth, as they are not affected by the heat. Let our windows be
large and extend well up to the ceiling. Have window-seats if we can, and
dispense with interior doors as much as possible. A curtain of some soft
material (it need not be expensive) will look better than a six-panel
door, and it may be pushed to one side, while the door is irrepressible.
Let us make our hall a bright, cheerful apartment, that may aid us to
“welcome the coming, speed the parting, guest.”


XII.

The cost of building depends so largely upon varying circumstances that
it is impossible to give precise estimates without exact information upon
such points as the amount of excavation needed, facilities for obtaining
stone for foundation, etc. Then the prices of labor and materials vary
greatly in different localities, so the figures here given can only be
approximately correct. Cottage No. I could be built as shown on plan,
for $500. A cellar under it would make it cost about $100 more. Cottages
Nos. II, III and IV would cost from $600 to $1000. Those shown in plates
VI, VII, IX, X, and others of similar character and size may be estimated
to cost from $2.50 to $3.00 per square ft. That is to say, if, as in
Fig. IX, the extreme exterior dimensions are 21 ft. by 29 ft., the house
covers 609 square ft., and would cost from $1522 to $1827. Cottage No.
XIV could be built for from $3000 to $3500.

These prices are given as guides, and may serve the reader as a standard
to follow. If plain interior finish is adopted, these figures may be
relied upon for ordinary cases. Some sites, however, present unexpected
difficulties, and some localities are peculiarly favored. Then the style
of interior finish adopted affects the cost greatly, and the expense may
be easily doubled by the use of elaborate cabinet work.

A brick house of the same capacity as a wooden one, will cost nearly 20
per cent. more. Rubble stone, if easily obtained, costs about as much as
brick.

In building double houses, we may save from 10 to 15 per cent. on the
cost of the houses singly.

Good materials and workmanship are always the cheapest in the end, and it
is by no means advisable to economize too closely on that score. There
can be no comfort in a house that constantly needs repairs; and the money
spent in building a home, carefully and substantially constructed, will
never be regretted.




[Illustration: SANITARY QUESTIONS]

_By WM. PAUL GERHARD, C. E._


In selecting a site, a loose, porous =soil= is, for obvious reasons,
preferable to ground liable to be damp or wet. Pure, dry sand, and
gravel, make excellent sites for building purposes. Next to these, rocky
soils may be chosen, and are usually quite healthy. Clay soils, which are
more or less impervious to water, and therefore always damp and chilly,
and alluvial lands, must not be chosen as a site for dwellings. But,
above all, avoid _made_ land. Although this refers more particularly to
city lots, it is not uncommon, even in the suburbs of large cities, to
find low ground filled with garbage, rubbish, and decaying vegetable and
animal debris, which are prime causes of impure air in dwellings. Ground
which has not before been built upon is, undoubtedly, preferable to sites
of old, torn-down buildings. If the latter must be taken, a detailed and
thorough examination should be made with respect to the purity of the
soil. Some lots are literally honey-combed with cesspools, privy-holes,
or have a net-work of broken drains full of accumulated filth, and the
soil is at times found to be contaminated from liquid house refuse, or
by soakage from barn-yards, stables, etc. A well should never be sunk
through such formerly occupied ground. It is quite important to ascertain
by preliminary borings, the level of the ground water, for a high
water level means continuous dampness, and must be abated by thorough
under-drainage.

By =underdrainage= of a site, we effect a permanent lowering of the
ground water, and thus secure to the proposed dwelling, dry foundation
walls, and absence of dampness from the house interior. To remove such
subsoil water, small porous, round tile-drains, 1¼ inches in diameter,
should be laid with open joints at least two feet below the level of the
cellar floor. The general arrangement of the lines may vary somewhat
in each case, but ordinarily the branch drains can be laid in parallel
lines, their distance varying from ten to twenty-five feet, according to
the amount of water to be removed. Wherever springs are found, special
lines may be required. The trenches should be refilled with broken stones
or coarse gravel. All branch pipes should be collected in one main pipe,
for which a 2 inch tile pipe will answer in most cases. This main drain
should be continued with proper fall to a ditch, ravine or water course.
There must never be any connection between such subsoil drains and any
foul-water drain, sewer, or with a cesspool or sewage tank.

If the dwelling stands on a hill-side, exposed to subsoil water flowing
over an impervious stratum, the foundation walls of the house nearest
to the hill are very apt to be wet, often even so much as to have the
subsoil water percolate through the cellar walls. In this case, the
subterranean water vein should be cut off by a blind drain, _i.e._ a
trench dug above the house sufficiently deep and carried with proper fall
diagonally across the lot. The trench to be filled with broken stones and
to be carried down the hill to some outlet, either an open ditch or a
brook.

Some attention should be paid to the proper _removal of surface water_.
In the case of suburban cottages the rain falling upon the roof is almost
always collected and stored for use in underground cisterns. Occasionally
a public water supply is available, the cistern is omitted, and the roof
water is allowed to run away on the surface, and partly soak into the
ground, thereby tending to keep the foundation walls damp and unhealthy.
To avoid this evil, the grounds surrounding the house must be properly
graded, in order to shed the water off from the walls. At a good distance
from the house the surface water may sometimes be permitted to soak away
into the ground, the vegetation helping to absorb a part of it. In other
cases, however, surface channels or gutters must be arranged, especially
with clay soils.

Besides water, the upper layers of the soil always contain =ground air=,
which has a tendency to rise into the dwelling, especially in winter when
our heated dwellings act as huge chimneys, drawing up large quantities
of air from the ground beneath them. Such exhalations, which consist in
the case of a pure soil of carbonic acid and watery vapor, and which
in the case of a contaminated soil are largely mixed with gases of
decomposing organic matter, should be rigidly excluded from the interior
of houses. For this reason, dwellings without a cellar should never be
placed immediately on the ground, but must be raised on piers, arches or
posts sufficiently to allow of a large air space and perfect circulation
between the surface and the floor beams. This will, at the same time,
prevent the quick rotting of the joists and floor-boards. To prevent
the rapid cooling of the basement floor this should be laid double with
an intermediate space, filled with a non-conducting material, such as
mineral wool.

It is more expensive, but always preferable, to excavate for a =cellar=
and to build the house on strong, well made foundation walls. The floor
of the cellar must be made perfectly tight against ground water and
ground air. There are different ways of doing this. One of the best
methods is the following: cover the surface of the cellar, which has
previously been levelled, with a layer of concrete, at least four inches,
better six inches deep. Next put on a thin layer (about ¼ inch) of hot,
pure asphaltum, and on top of this a finish of Portland cement.

The cellar walls must always be made impervious to dampness. As usually
built, they are extremely porous, and moisture rises in them by contact
with the adjoining ground and by capillary attraction. The best plan to
prevent =dampness of walls= is to have a complete cut-off between the
foundation walls and the ground, by an open area, carried completely
round the building, and well drained and ventilated. This, however, is
expensive, and a similar isolation may be accomplished by building double
or hollow walls, the space between inner and outer walls being well
aired. The foundation walls should be placed upon a bed of concrete, and
must be covered on their outside with a layer of asphaltum to a point
somewhat above the level of the ground. It is very important to provide,
at this height in the wall, a horizontal isolating or damp proof course,
which may consist of a thick layer of asphaltum, or of slate, bedded in
cement, or of layers of tarred roofing paper, or else of hollow tiles.
The sill and the floor joists must, of course, be kept above the damp
proof course. The surface water may be kept away from the outer walls by
filling the space next to the wall, to a depth well below the foundation
walls, with broken stones or gravel. Sometimes a tile drain is placed
below the foot course to carry off any accumulation of percolating storm
water. This trench may be covered at the top with a stone slab to shed
off surface water.

Most so-called “practical” builders will probably sneer at these
suggestions. I can assure those of my readers who care to build a
_healthy_ home, that the money paid for such preventive measures will
be spent for an excellent purpose. The proper construction of healthy
foundation walls, and of a cellar, dry and cheerful at all times, is the
basis of sanitation in cottage-building. This much accomplished, all
remaining requirements are not so difficult to fulfill.

Next to dryness, the most desirable features of a good cellar are, that
it is well lighted and perfectly ventilated. Good light in a cellar
helps much toward its being kept in a proper condition. As regards
the necessity of cellar ventilation, remember that your floors will
necessarily have some crevices or shrinkage holes, and through these
the cellar air will rise and mingle with the atmosphere of your living
and sleeping rooms. Above all other things, do not allow your cellar to
be made a sort of gigantic poke-hole for rags, cast-off clothing, old
shoes, tin-cans, rotten vegetables, garbage, swill or other offensive
matters. See that it is kept at all times free from rats and vermin. Do
not tolerate any opening in the cellar floor for the removal of surplus
water into foul water drains. Such opening, even if trapped, will be sure
to act at times as an inlet for unwelcome sewer air.

       *       *       *       *       *

The =water supply= of cottages is derived either from wells, cisterns
or springs. Rarely do we find in the case of scattered houses a public
supply, delivering water under pressure.

A common sight in the country is a =well= located close to or adjoining
a leaching cesspool or a privy. Such wells are usually sunk to but a
limited depth, and the liquid sewage from cesspools soaks through the
porous subsoil down to the subterranean water stratum. The danger to
health from drinking impure water is now universally acknowledged.
Polluted well water is rendered more dangerous by the fact that it often
has a bright, sparkling and clear appearance and has, in summer time, a
low temperature, making it particularly agreeable to drink. Nothing but a
chemical analysis or the microscope reveals its unwholesome condition. It
is extremely difficult to fix a limit of minimum distance between a well
and a cesspool, or privy, as so many different factors have to be taken
into consideration. In rocky ground, especially, there may exist hidden
fissures carrying the contents of cesspools a much greater distance than
is generally expected.

If there is no leaching cesspool, no privy, nor other cause of soil
contamination, in the neighborhood, a well may safely be used. If
cesspools must be kept on or near your, or the neighbor’s, lot, or if the
ground has previously been saturated with filth, do not sink a well.

A properly built well should have walls made tight and impervious from
the level of the ground-water up to the surface, in order to prevent
any filtration from the soil surrounding the well. The surface of the
ground should be raised somewhat at the well, and graded so as to pitch
in all directions away from the well. This will prevent the entrance
of surface-washings. The opening of the well must be _thoroughly well
covered_, in order to prevent the falling into the well of vermin and
smaller animals, or the washing in of decaying vegetable or organic
matter. The following mode of building a well has many advantages over
the ordinary way: Excavate down to the water-level, then arch the well
over with stones, and place the suction-pipe into the well. Next refill
with loose stones, on top of these place coarse gravel, sand, and finally
clean earth. Carry the pipe above ground to the suction-pump. A thus
built well is very safe against introduction of foreign matter.

The best wells are probably what are called “driven wells” or
“Abyssinian” wells. They are constructed as follows: A wrought-iron tube,
1½ to 2 inches diameter, having at its end a steel point perforated with
numerous holes, is driven into the ground, which must, of course, be free
from stones or boulders, until the ground water is reached. If necessary,
several lengths of tubing are screwed together by means of couplings.
The upper end of the tube is attached to the pump, and continued suction
will soon wash away the sand at the lower end of the pipe, and furnish a
stream of clear water.

Wherever a well cannot be sunk, cottages should be supplied with rain
water collected from the roof and stored either in tanks placed in
the garret, or else in underground =cisterns=. The latter keep the
temperature of the water moderately low throughout the year. Most people,
unaccustomed to drink rain water, object to it on account of its flat
taste, but if it is carefully collected, properly stored, boiled before
use, filtered, cooled with ice and well aerated, it makes an exceedingly
wholesome and agreeable drink.

To determine the amount of rain water available from a certain roof,
ascertain the amount of surface of its horizontal projection, and
multiply this by the annual rainfall in feet and decimals of a foot.
The total amount in cubic feet must be divided by two, to allow for
unavoidable loss through evaporation and for wasted, impure roof
washings. It is easy to arrive at a proper size for the cistern, if the
available amount of water is known.

In collecting roof water, it is important to allow the first washings
from the roof, which always contain more or less filth in the shape of
dust, horse dung from the street, excrements of birds, leaves from trees,
etc., to run off on the surface. This may readily be accomplished by
cut-offs on the rain water pipes, to be worked by hand or arranged to
act automatically. The best roofing surface for collecting rain water
is slate, and next to this shingles. Underground cisterns are usually
built circular in shape, of hard-burnt brick, laid in hydraulic cement.
The walls of the cistern must be made perfectly watertight, not only to
prevent leakage from it to the outside, but also to prevent the entrance
into it of ground water. If an overflow pipe is provided, it should
under no circumstances whatever communicate with any drain or sewer,
or discharge into a cesspool. As soon as delivered into the cistern,
the water must be kept scrupulously clean, and any possible source of
pollution should be removed. It is a good plan to build into the cistern
a filtering chamber to remove the coarser impurities in the water.
Cisterns should be frequently inspected, emptied and cleaned; the opening
at the top must be closed by a solid cover, to prevent the falling in
of vermin, mice, rats, etc., and to guard against contamination by
surface-washings.

Occasionally a dwelling-house is supplied from a distant =spring=, by a
gravitation supply in case the spring is near a hill-top, or by means of
a hydraulic ram if the spring is situated at a lower level than the house.

If the dwelling draws its supply from a well or a cistern, the water
is usually lifted by means of suction-pumps, generally located, for
convenience’s sake, inside the house, at the kitchen sink. If the cottage
has any plumbing fixtures on the upper floor, it becomes necessary to
force water by a lift and force-pump to a small reservoir or tank under
the roof, from which it is distributed to the fixtures under a constant
head of pressure. Such =water tanks= should be made of cast iron well
painted, or of wrought iron well protected against rust. Slate tanks are
also very good. Cheaper than either of these are wooden tanks. Wooden
tanks are often lined with tinned copper; lead, zinc or galvanized iron
linings are undesirable. Care must be taken not to run the overflow of
a tank into any soil or drain pipe. The simplest way of disposing of it
is to run it into the gutter of the roof. If this is not feasible run it
down to the kitchen sink, and make it serve as a tell-tale for use with
the force-pump at the kitchen sink.

=Pipes for conveying water= to the plumbing fixtures may be of drawn
lead, or tin-lined lead, or of block tin. Wrought iron is used
extensively, either plain or galvanized or enamelled; rubber-coated,
glass-lined and tin-lined wrought-iron pipes are also made, but are too
expensive for ordinary use.

Drawn lead pipe is a material possessing many merits, and hence it is
used extensively. It should be remembered, however, that soft water
attacks lead, and a sufficient amount of lead is occasionally dissolved
to cause dangerous poisoning of persons drinking water from such pipes.
It is a good precaution in the case of new pipes to allow the water to
run for a while, especially if it has been standing in the pipes over
night. Tin-lined pipes, although more expensive, are much safer for use,
but great care must be taken in making joints in such pipe, lest the tin
be removed at the joints. Tin-lined as well as block tin pipes should
always be used as suction-pipes in wells and cisterns in preference to
ordinary lead pipes.

Plain wrought-iron pipes rust quickly, especially if not constantly kept
full of water; water conveyed through them is apt to make iron stains in
the washing. A further disadvantage is the frequent choking up of the
smaller sizes through rust. Pipes coated with some kind of enamel are
better and safer, provided care is taken in making the joints properly.
Plain wrought-iron pipes, made rustless by the Bower-Barff process, have
lately been used and promise to show good results. Wrought-iron pipes are
largely used, protected with a coating of zinc, and such “galvanized”
pipes may be safely used, for, although water dissolves and is often
found to contain salts of zinc, which are poisonous in large amounts,
dilution makes them practically harmless. A more serious objection to
galvanized pipes may be the fact that the zinc coating, unless applied
with great care, soon wears off and ceases to protect the pipe against
rust. Copper tubes, lined with tin, are occasionally used, but are
expensive and troublesome to put up. In some of the Eastern States
drawn seamless brass tubes are used for hot-water pipes. Their only
advantage over lead would seem to be their neater appearance and less
liability to sag, although changes of temperature affect brass pipes by
expansion and contraction, causing leaky joints. Brass pipes, if used for
drinking-water, should be tinned on the inside.

It is important to arrange all water-pipes so that they can be
completely drained or emptied, when the supply is shut off. Pipes
running on outside walls should be suitably protected against frost. It
is recommended, even in the case of the smallest buildings, to have a
plan, showing the exact size, material and location of all water pipes,
stop-cocks, faucets, cisterns, etc. All pipes should be kept accessible,
and, wherever possible, in sight.

The supply for drinking purposes is often purified by means of
=domestic filtration=. This is especially desirable with cistern water.
Domestic filters should act not only as strainers by removing suspended
impurities, but they ought also to act chemically by oxidizing a part
or all of the dissolved organic matter. Various materials are used for
domestic filters, amongst them being sand, sponge, flannel, cotton,
animal charcoal and spongy iron. Nothing is more erroneous than the
supposition that a filter, once started, will continue to act, without
further attention, forever. Whatever the filtering material may be, it
should be frequently cleaned and aerated, and renewed from time to time.
It must, therefore, always be easily accessible. Most small filters, to
be screwed to faucets on the supply pipe, are made reversible, and if
this operation is regularly performed, they work quite well, although
their action is of necessity largely mechanical. Larger filters are
connected by means of a hose or a pipe with the pressure supply, and
these, too, answer well, provided they have an arrangement for periodical
reversing of the direction of the filtering current. Other filters
are portable vessels to be filled by hand. Filters are also placed in
cisterns, or at the end of the suction pipe in wells or cisterns. A good
plan is to build into the cistern a partition wall, establishing a small
chamber, in which the suction pipe is placed. The dividing wall is built
with courses of brick, some of which, being laid dry, act as strainers.
This arrangement, it need hardly be said, wants periodical cleaning as
much as any of the household filters.

       *       *       *       *       *

A serious and all-important matter is the question of =removal and
disposal of the household wastes=. We will assume, as is the case in
ninety-nine out of every hundred isolated country dwellings, that there
are no sewers in the streets, and that a discharge into a large creek or
stream, or into the sea, is not feasible.

The common practice is to build a _leaching_ =cesspool=, if the soil is
at all porous. All the liquid wastes from the household are carried by
a drain to this cesspool, and allowed to soak away into the soil, while
the cesspool, and the spaces between its wall-stones, are gradually
filling up with the more solid matter, the grease, etc., which undergo
a slow process of decomposition, creating a noxious and disagreeable
accumulation of gases. The cesspool is usually unventilated, and the only
exit for gases is through the drain pipe, up the house pipes, and through
defective joints and equally defective traps into the house.

Occasionally two cesspools are used, one for the kitchen sink waste,
the other for soil and bath-room waste water. The conditions of these
cesspools after some use will not differ materially from each other, and
such an arrangement is, if anything, more of a nuisance than the one
first-mentioned.

The smaller the house lot, the greater is the danger from a cesspool. No
leaching cesspool should ever be placed nearer to a dwelling than one
hundred feet. To locate such a cesspool close to the well, or even a
cistern, is a practice which should be forbidden by law.

A cesspool or sewage tank, if required, should be built _thoroughly
tight_, tighter even, if this were possible, than a cistern. It should
be of moderate dimensions, preferably circular in shape, built with
hard-burnt brick, laid in hydraulic cement, and the tank must be well
rendered inside and outside with pure Portland cement. The tank should be
arched over and covered with an iron cover. It must be emptied, cleaned
and disinfected at frequent intervals, and it should be at all times
well ventilated, by a pipe, carried up to a good height above ground.
If possible, the cesspool should not be located in a direction from the
house of the prevailing winds.

The liquid contents of a sewage-tank may with advantage be used to
sprinkle and irrigate a lawn, or a kitchen garden, or shrubbery, or a
vine trellis, while the solids, removed at _frequent_ intervals, may be
dug as fertilizers into the ground. If this arrangement is adopted I
usually advise having two chambers in the cesspool; the smaller one for
retaining the solids, the larger one to receive the liquid wastes. The
overflow delivering the latter from the retaining or settling chamber for
solids, into the liquid-tank, must dip well below the water-line, so as
to avoid carrying scum with the water. The liquid manure may be pumped by
a small pump, set over the top of the liquid cesspool chamber.

The question is to some extent simplified if the cottage contains no
water-closets. The liquid manure will be easier removed and taken care
of. The usual and much to be condemned substitute for a water-closet is
a =privy=, located close to or at a distance from the house. It rivals
with the leaching cesspool in nastiness and danger to health. It pollutes
the soil, taints the water in the well and contaminates the air of the
neighborhood. A privy must always receive unqualified condemnation. There
are cheap and cleanly substitutes for it, such as the various apparatus
known as =earth or ash closets=. While I should hesitate to recommend
placing an earth-closet inside a cottage, except for the use of invalids,
it is very easy to arrange it so as to be quite near the rear part of the
house, accessible from it by a not too conspicuous, well covered, shady,
dry and sheltered walk.

The shed, in which the earth-closet is placed, should be well-built,
strong and tight, and preferably plastered, so as not to be too cold in
winter storms, but also sufficiently ventilated. A simple earth-closet is
illustrated in the writer’s book, “Hints on the Drainage and Sewerage
of Dwellings.” More expensive closets, with mechanical apparatus for
throwing a fixed quantity of earth after use, are sold and generally give
satisfaction if used intelligently, although plain earth-closets answer
well in the case of inexpensive cottages.

With cottages, provided with earth-closets, the earth-manure can be
advantageously used in the kitchen garden, or else it may be disposed of
to neighboring farmers. The disposal of slop water (kitchen and chamber
slops) may be effected where there are grounds about the house, sloping
somewhat away from it, by =sub-surface irrigation=, consisting in placing
a series of common 2-inch drain tiles in parallel lines, about 10 inches
below the surface of the ground, and distributing the sewage water
intermittently through such a network of pipes into the ground, where it
is acted upon by the vegetation and purified by the earth, acting as a
filter. The details of this system, which answers better than any other
known method of disposal for isolated country dwellings, are given in
the author’s book, quoted before. This system is also practical when
water-closets are used inside the house, but in this case, the solids
should be intercepted in a small receiving reservoir, which must be
frequently cleaned, otherwise the distributing tiles will speedily choke,
and create a nuisance by ceasing to work.

Cottages or suburban dwellings of moderate cost should have as few
=plumbing fixtures= as possible, especially if water is scarce, and must
be pumped to a distributing tank by hand labor. Where there is a system
of service pipes, tanks and fixtures, there will be more or less outlay
for annual repairs, besides the frequent annoyance of apparatus getting
out of order, or refusing to work, or freezing up and bursting. It is
certainly much cheaper to have a properly managed earth-closet and to
confine the plumbing in the house to a kitchen sink, a force-pump, a
tank and a kitchen boiler. Certain advantages, however, of an indoor
water-closet, as regards comfort, convenience and health, must be
conceded. A bath-room with a plain bath-tub is also a great convenience
and an important aid to bodily cleanliness. It pays well to arrange
for it, even where one must forego the luxury of a good water-closet.
If means are not available for a system of hot and cold water pipes,
the bath tub may be filled by pails. A small slop sink or slop hopper
for removing chamber slops is also useful and facilitates the work of
servants. Both sink and tub may be arranged in one room, which should
have plenty of ventilation and direct light by large windows to the
outer air. Even the smallest cottage must have a plain kitchen sink.
Where the kitchen is large, a set of laundry tubs may be arranged close
by the sink; in larger dwellings a special room is generally set aside
for laundry purposes, next to the kitchen, or below the kitchen, in the
basement, and hot water from the kitchen boiler is generally available.
If a =bath-room= is wanted, with a water-closet and a bath-tub, and all
necessary amount of hot and cold water pipes, waste and vent pipes, let
the arrangement be as plain and as open—which does not necessarily mean
unsightly—as possible. Keep all pipes outside of walls or partitions,
have them where you can constantly see them and lay your hands on any
stopcock or other plumbing detail, if necessary. Dispense with woodwork
as much as possible. Arrange every fixture, especially the sink and the
water-closet, open to inspection and accessible to the dust-brush and
wiping cloth of the servants. It is important—for the sake of economy
as well as on account of plain and straight arrangement of pipes—that
the bath-room should be as nearly as possible directly over the kitchen,
so that one waste pipe and one line of vent pipe may answer for both.
A little skill and foresight in planning will usually accomplish this
desirable feature.

Let the kitchen sink be of plain cast-iron, the laundry tubs of wood,
or better, of slate; the bath-tub of wood, lined with 14 oz. copper,
and select a good earthen-ware flushing rim hopper with supply-cistern.
Of course, there is more expensive, more durable and handsomer plumbing
apparatus sold, but the above fixtures, if well set, answer all practical
requirements of a small home. The water-closet should be arranged with
so little woodwork as only a seat resting on cleats; the closet itself
standing on all sides free on the floor. This may be finished in hard
wood or covered with oil-cloth, or with slate slabs. A closet thus
arranged answers well for pouring out chamber slops and for use as a
urinal. For further details on plumbing fixtures see the author’s books
on the subject.

Here are a few approved rules on =house sewerage=, so far as they relate
to plain cottages.

The main house sewer outside the building to be of strong well-burnt,
and glazed vitrified pipe, circular in section, four inches in diameter,
laid in straight lines, or with curves of large radius at changes of
direction. Joints to be made with pure Portland cement. It is important
that no cement remains on the inside of the joint. The bottom part of
each pipe should be tightened with particular care. The drain to be
firmly laid at the bottom of the trench, if necessary, on a bed of
concrete. Grooves should be cut for the pipe-sockets. The depth of the
drain should be about 3 feet. Junctions to be made with Y branches.
Inclination to be, if possible, ½ inch to the foot. Wherever grades are
very flat provide some simple and inexpensive flushing apparatus at the
head of the house sewer.

All the pipes inside the house to be thoroughly gas and water-tight, and
well flushed and ventilated. The house sewer inside the dwelling, to a
point five feet outside of the house walls, to be of heavy iron pipe;
of cast iron, if kept below the floor; of wrought iron or cast iron, if
run along the cellar wall or ceiling. Provide a sufficient number of
access-holes for inspection and for removing stoppages.

The soil pipe or waste pipe to be of heavy tarred cast iron with well
caulked lead joints, or of asphalted wrought iron with steam-tight
screw-joints. Pipes to run as straight as possible from the cellar to the
roof, and to be continued full-size at least two feet above the roof.
Mouth to be left wide open. Size of soil pipe 4 inches; of waste pipe 2
inches.

Provide a running trap on line of main house sewer, inside or outside of
the house. Arrange a 4-inch fresh air pipe, at the house side of such
trap, run preferably some distance away from the house and hidden from
sight by shrubbery.

Branch waste pipes from fixtures to be of heavy lead pipe, 1½ inches
diameter. Joints between lead and iron pipe to be made with brass
ferrules or brass screw nipples.

Each fixture to be separately trapped near its outlet by a self-cleansing
and secure trap. Overflow pipes to be dispensed with as much as possible;
if used to join the waste pipe between the fixture and the trap. Traps to
be either the siphon (S or running traps), in which case siphonage should
be prevented by an air pipe, or else to be anti-siphoning or mechanical
or mercury-seal traps.

       *       *       *       *       *

The question of how to =warm= our cottage will depend, in the first
place, upon the climate and locality of the proposed dwelling, and
furthermore upon its exposure. Three methods of warming the air of halls
and rooms must be considered, namely, warming by open fire-places, by
stoves and by hot-air furnaces. Direct and indirect heating by steam
and by hot-water apparatus are excluded on account of their cost for
buildings, such as here shown.

Ordinary =fire-places= warm principally by radiation, the heat from
the fire being imparted to surrounding objects or persons without much
warming the surrounding air. The degree of heat varies with the square of
the distance from the grate, and it thus happens that with a fire-place
as the only means of heating a room of an exposed dwelling, a person
near the fire may be nearly roasted, while at the opposite extreme end
of the room the temperature may be almost down to the freezing point. A
further disadvantage is the fact that it heats only the part of the body
facing the fire. The greatest objection to the ordinary open grate fire
lies in the fact that 85 per cent. and more of the fuel is wasted, the
heat from it going straight up the chimney flue. A fire-place generally
causes extremely cold drafts from window cracks, or from door spaces,
especially in very cold weather. On the other hand, if such cracks are
all carefully closed and stopped up, the chimney is apt to smoke. While,
therefore, an open fire-place may be adequate in warm climates, it is
entirely inadequate to warm, _per se_, cottages in our eastern, northern,
and northwestern States.

To say that a very large waste of fuel is incident to warming by
fire-places, is not strictly correct, for the heat is not actually
_wasted_. It forms a good aid to the ventilation of rooms, and we
will see later that, as an accessory of other heating methods, the
fire-place is eminently serviceable, and much to be recommended.
Better, however, than ordinary fire-places, are the improved, so-called
=ventilating fire-places=, which are provided with a large air chamber,
and a sufficient air supply from outdoors. There are several excellent
devices of this kind in the market, and these are, of course, much more
economical as far as burning fuel is concerned, about 35 per cent. of the
heat being utilized. They make splendid ventilators, and are generally
superior and free from defects.

In this country =stoves= of cast iron and of wrought iron are the
usual and most economical means of heating small cottages and suburban
dwellings. It is also, unfortunately, true that, as ordinarily
arranged, they make the worst possible devices for warming the air
of our rooms. Heating should always be combined with ventilation,
that is, there should be a continuous removal of the fouled air and
introduction of plenty of pure air instead, but arranged so as not to
cause inconvenient or unhealthy drafts. A room warmed by an air-tight
stove must soon contain air entirely unfit to breathe, for a close stove
removes practically none of the vitiated air, and there is usually an
entire absence of any provision for introducing fresh air. Less fuel
is consumed, and stove-heating is consequently economical, at least
apparently so, while in reality it causes loss of strength, vigor and
appetite, and general debility and extreme sensitiveness.

If a dwelling is to be heated by stoves, the following precautions must
be observed. Select a good-sized, well-built stove, with tight joints,
and lined on the inside with fire-brick to prevent the iron from getting
red hot and to retain, as much as possible, the heat. A supply of
fresh pure air from the outside must be arranged, carried to a jacket
surrounding the stove, where the air is warmed by contact with the stove,
and circulated in the room. The smoke pipe of the stove should be large,
and must never have a damper to shut off the draft. A valve may be placed
on the fresh-air inlet pipe to regulate the amount of ventilation at
will. For the removal of foul air outlets must be arranged, near the
ceiling of the room, and into the chimney, care being taken to prevent
down-drafts or entrance of smoke, by arranging a self-closing flap valve
at the outlet. It is much preferable, however, to have an extracting
or ventilating flue, arranged in the chimney adjoining the smoke flue
and warmed by the latter, with outlets from the room into such flue.
The stove should have ample capacity to heat the room even in very cold
weather without driving the fire to a red heat. It is a good plan to
supply a moderate amount of moisture to the air by placing a water kettle
or evaporating pan on the stove.

Heating suburban dwellings by =hot-air furnaces= has many advantages
over stove heating. Furnace heating is, strictly speaking, stove
heating, but with this difference, that there is only one large stove,
centrally located in the basement or cellar, from which air pipes of
sufficient size carry the warmed air into the rooms as desired. There is,
consequently, less labor in carrying coal and making fires, less trouble
in keeping up the fire, and less dirt and dust from removing ashes.

Furnace heating is disliked and has often been condemned by many as
detrimental to health, and while such is true of improperly arranged
furnace apparatus, it is, nevertheless, a mode of heating which can be
made perfectly healthy and agreeable. It is impossible to heat a room
well by furnace heat, unless arrangements are made, by an open fire-place
or other outlet into a chimney flue, for withdrawal of the air once
breathed and fouled by respiration. You cannot introduce pure, warmed
air, unless you remove a like amount of fouled air. Another mistake,
frequently made, is to take the air supply to the furnace air-chamber
directly from the cellar. Thus, cellar air, ground air, or air from
sewer pipes, is often sent up in a heated condition into the living and
sleeping rooms.

If warming by a hot-air furnace is decided upon, care should be taken
to select from the innumerable patterns in the market a good furnace.
The furnace should be of the best quality of material of its kind—either
cast iron, wrought iron or soap-stone,—and of a good size, for if the
furnace is small, it will be overheated in extremely cold weather, which
is very objectionable, as it renders the air less fit for breathing, and
is liable to cause cracks in cast-iron, and loose joints in wrought-iron
furnaces. The furnace must be well constructed, the pot must be lined
with fire-brick to prevent the rapid burning out of the iron, the joints
must be few in number and perfectly tight, and this must be made the
subject of a special examination. The furnace should have one or two
large cold air-ducts, leading to the outside of the house, located on
opposite sides of the house if there are two. These air-ducts should
take their supply preferably five or more feet above the surface of the
ground. A slide-valve must be arranged in the cold-air box, to regulate
the amount of incoming air, and where there is danger from impurities
in the air, the air supply should be filtered through a loose cotton
filter. At the mouth of the air box place a wire-netting to prevent
rats or other animals from entering. The box should be constructed of
well-dried, wooden plank, with closely fitted joints. Better, although
more expensive, is a galvanized sheet iron air-duct. It is advisable to
carry the cold-air box along the ceiling of the cellar, where it is in
sight, and not below the ground, where it may and often is filled with
ground water or pools of sewage from broken cellar drains. The size of
the fresh-air inlet should be equal in area to the aggregate sum of all
hot-air flues, leading from the air chamber into rooms. The fresh air
should be kept tolerably moist by arranging an evaporating pan kept
constantly full of water in the air chamber of the furnace.

The furnace must be arranged as centrally as possible, so as to make the
horizontal hot-air flues short, for in these the velocity of the air
current is reduced by friction, especially if the flues are small. The
hot-air flues should, preferably, be kept on inside walls, and must be as
direct as possible, and of ample capacity. The inlets or registers, for
admitting warm air into the room, should not be in the floor, for it is
unhealthy to stand over them, moreover they form receptacles of dirt and
dust, and are unsightly in the floor. The inlets should be placed in a
side wall. To avoid danger from charring woodwork no hot-air flues should
come in direct contact with floor-joists, boards or partitions; all
woodwork should be securely protected by some non-conducting material.
The smoke-pipe must be large and run to a good-sized smooth flue, so as
to insure a good steady draft, which will remove all gases of combustion.
There should be no damper on the smoke pipe, and the fire should be
regulated only by more or less admission of air under the fire grate.
Overheating of the furnace must be avoided, for it unduly dries the air,
and scorches the organic matter in the air coming in contact with the
fire, thus causing a peculiar, disagreeable smell.

An open fire-place in the hall and all principal rooms makes, in
connection with hot-air heating, the most comfortable and pleasant
arrangement for withdrawing fouled air from the room. With the air of
the room introduced at a warm temperature, the radiant heat from the
fire-place is particularly invigorating and comforting. We all love to
gather around a cheerful, glowing fire on the hearth of a cosy home, and
exchange pleasant thoughts or dream away twilight hours in looking at the
flickering light.

If fire-places are not available for ventilation, outlets must be
provided into warm, ventilating flues, arranged parallel to smoke-flues
in chimneys. Chimney flues should preferably not be built against outside
walls, for they are not apt to draw well in such position, unless a
special air space is arranged in the rear of the flue to prevent its too
rapid cooling. Ventilating flues must be without sharp angles, smooth on
the inside and preferably round in section. If they remove the air from a
number of rooms, their cross-section must be proportionately increased.
Bedrooms should never be heated by base burner stoves, but should have
a fire-place acting at all times as an efficient foul-air flue. Halls
must be moderately heated to avoid cold drafts through door-cracks, and
to insure a more uniform heat throughout the dwelling. Bathrooms and
kitchens must be ventilated with special care.

=Ventilation= or change of air in dwellings must go on at all seasons
of the year. It aims at removing the vitiated air in a dwelling and
introducing a sufficient amount of pure air, moderately heated in winter
time, supplied with a proper amount of moisture, and thoroughly and
uniformly diffusing it in the house interior in gentle currents, without
causing undue drafts. Drafts are dangerous to health, because they
rob the human body too suddenly of a part of its heat. In summer-time
ventilation is happily and easily accomplished by opening doors or
windows, and by occasional “air-flushing” by creating cross-currents
through rooms. Fire-places should not be covered up in summer by
fire-boards. In winter-time ventilation should always be combined with
heating.

In the spring or fall of the year we often content ourselves with a small
wood or coal fire on the hearth, and in such a case the easiest way to
provide for incoming fresh air is by admitting air through the windows,
directing the cold current to rise up to the ceiling. This may be done by
lowering the upper sash and raising the lower one slightly, not enough to
leave openings at top and bottom. A better way is, of course, to have a
ventilating open fire-place, such as the “fire-on-the-hearth” stove, or
other apparatus.

The so-called spontaneous or accidental ventilation by air penetrating
walls cannot, practically, establish a sufficient change of air. Its
effect is very much reduced by papering, painting, plastering on the
inside, and by treating the outside walls by some water-proof process, as
is frequently done, as a protection against driving rains.

For details on ventilation, amount of cubic space in rooms, amount of
air-supply required, proper position of inlets and outlets, and other
questions, we refer to larger hand-books on ventilation.

[Illustration]




[Illustration: PLATES.]


[Illustration: PLATE I

Perspective Sketch.

Rossiter and Wright Architects.]

[Illustration: PLATE II

Sketch for Cottage.

Wm. A. Bates. Architect. 149 Broadway, New York.]

[Illustration: PLATE III

Perspective Sketch.

Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.]

[Illustration: PLATE IV

Sketch for Cottage.

Wm. A. Bates. Architect. 149 Broadway, New York.]

[Illustration: PLATE V

Perspective.

Thos. Tryon. Architect. New York.]

[Illustration: PLATE VI

Perspective Sketch.

Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.]

[Illustration: PLATE VII

Suburban Cottage.

Frank F. Ward. Architect. 59 Astor House, N.Y.]

[Illustration: PLATE VIII

Sketch. Design for Cottage-Rooms in connection with a Summer Hotel.

Fredk. B. White. Architect. 294 Broadway, New York.]

[Illustration: PLATE IX

Sketch for Cottage.

Wm. A. Bates. Architect. 149 Broadway, New York.]

[Illustration: PLATE X

Perspective.

Chas. I. Berg. Architect. N.Y.]

[Illustration: PLATE XI

Perspective Sketch.

Fredk. B. White. Architect. 294 Broadway, New York.]

[Illustration: PLATE XII

A Stone & Timber Cottage.

Wm. B. Tuthill. Architect. 52 Broadway, N.Y.]

[Illustration: PLATE XIII

Perspective Sketch.

Thos. Tryon. Architect. New York.]

[Illustration: PLATE XIV

Perspective Sketch.

Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.]

[Illustration: PLATE XV

A Low priced Sea-side Cottage. Perspective Sketch.

Rossiter and Wright Architects.]

[Illustration: PLATE XVI

Sketch for Small Cottage.

Jas. D. Hunter Jr. Architect. New York.]

[Illustration: PLATE XVII

Bungalow with Attic.

Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.]

[Illustration: PLATE XVIII

A house planned to meet the requirements of a 50 ft. suburban lot.

Rossiter and Wright Architects.]

[Illustration: PLATE XIX

Cottage on Side Hill.

Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.]

[Illustration: PLATE XX

A Double Cottage.

Frank F. Ward. Architect. 59 Astor House, N.Y.]

[Illustration: PLATE XXI

Pair of Semi-detached Cottages.

Chas. I. Berg. Architect. N.Y.]

[Illustration: PLATE XXII

Semi-Detached Homes for a Village Street.

Fredk. B. White. Architect. 294 Broadway, New York.]

[Illustration: PLATE XXIII

Sketch for a small double house.

Wm. B. Tuthill. Architect. 52 Broadway, N.Y.]




[Illustration: ADVERTISEMENTS]


DURHAM SYSTEM OF HOUSE DRAINAGE.

THE Durham House Drainage Company OF NEW YORK.

MANUFACTURING THE DURHAM PATENT SYSTEM OF SCREW-JOINT IRON HOUSE DRAINAGE

TRUSTEES:

    JOSEPH P. DAVIS, Vice-Pres’t Am. Soc. C. E.
    RUDOLPH HERING, M. Am. Soc. C. E.
    DANIEL P. BRUNER, M. Am. Soc. C. E.
    HENRY G. PROUT, M. Am. Soc. C. E.
    C. W. DURHAM, M. Am. Soc. C. E.
    WM. H. BOARDMAN.
    DR. C. FAYETTE TAYLOR.
    FLOYD B. WILSON.
    CHAS. P. WHITNEY.

    C. W. DURHAM, PRESIDENT.
    CHAS. P. WHITNEY, SECRETARY.
    WM. PAUL GERHARD, CHIEF ENG’R.
    JOSEPH P. DAVIS, VICE-PRESIDENT.
    HENRY G. PROUT, TREASURER.
    H. C. VAIL, GENERAL AGENT.

NEW YORK CITY, 231-235 East Forty-Second Street.

_ALBANY, RICHARD PRESCOTT, M.E. 86 State Street._

_PHILADELPHIA, 114 S. Sixth St. (Ledger Building.)_

_BROOKLYN, 26 Court St. (40 Garfield Building.)_

MECHANICAL PERFECTION IN SCIENTIFIC PLUMBING.

The Durham system of construction for house drains provides absolute
and permanent security from sewer malaria, and relief from expenses for
repairs.

The Durham Companies construct all work with their own workmen, under
the supervision of their own engineers. Expert mechanics are sent to any
distance to execute contracts.

All work is of standard quality, fully guaranteed, and furnished at an
ordinary manufacturing profit, at a cost no greater than is asked for the
best class of old style plumbing. Its permanance renders it cheaper than
the cheapest kind of “skin” plumbing.

The Durham system will be constructed in old or new buildings, including
or excluding the balance of the plumbing work, fixtures and gas fitting,
as may be desired.

The Durham system can be cheaply introduced into old buildings, making
them fresh and wholesome.

Illustrated Pamphlets Sent on Application.

       *       *       *       *       *

APPLETON’S HOME-BOOKS.

Appleton’s Home-Books are now put up in three volumes, elegantly bound in
cloth, four books to a volume, as follows:

                  { BUILDING A HOME. Illustrated.
    Volume One:   { HOW TO FURNISH A HOME. Illustrated.
                  { THE HOME GARDEN. Illustrated.
                  { HOME GROUNDS. Illustrated.

                  { HOME DECORATION. Illustrated.
    Volume Two:   { THE HOME NEEDLE. Illustrated.
                  { AMENITIES OF HOME.
                  { HOUSEHOLD HINTS.

                  { THE HOME LIBRARY. Illustrated.
    Volume Three: { HOME OCCUPATIONS. Illustrated.
                  { HOME AMUSEMENTS.
                  { HEALTH AT HOME.

_Each four books make a large handsome, 12mo volume, printed on extra
fine paper and elegantly bound. Sold in sets, or each volume separately.
Price, $2 per volume. (The separate books may be obtained; price, 60
cents each.)_

“A series of hand-books devoted to the practical scheme of home-making.
The work is planned with especial reference to the needs of the great
body of plain people to whom economy is a prime element in the problem,
but to whom beauty and healthfulness and perfect service are also
indispensable.”—_Home Journal._

New York: D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers, 1, 3 and 5 Bond Street.

       *       *       *       *       *

100 Page ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE of BOOKS on

    ARCHITECTURE,
    BUILDING,
    CARPENTRY,
    PAINTING,
    DECORATION, _and_
    ORNAMENT.

SENT TO ANY ADDRESS ON RECEIPT OF 10 CENTS.

William T. Comstock, Publisher, No. 6 ASTOR PLACE, New York.

       *       *       *       *       *

The attention of architects, builders and house owners is called to the
only practical fixture for opening and closing outside-blinds, from
within the house, without raising the windows or removing window screen.
With each set of fixtures is furnished all the iron-ware necessary for
hanging a pair of blinds. The hinges are the strongest and most durable
of any in the market; they, and all other parts of the fixture, are
made of malleable-iron and subjected to a process which renders them
rust-proof. They can be applied to blinds already hung, as well as to new
work.

[Illustration]

For full information apply to

The Dudley Shutter-Worker and Burglar-Alarm Co., Rooms 105 and 106 Temple
Court, 5 Beekman Street, New York City.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration]

N. H. EGLESTON JR. No. 7 East Washington Place N.Y.

    MOSAIC GLASS
    CURTAINS
    TEXTILES
    CABINET WOODWORKS
    MEMORIAL WINDOWS
    AND general leaded glass work for ecclesiastical and domestic use
    GAS FIXTURES
    Ceiling Designs
    AND Mural Decoration
    BRASS and OTHER METAL WORK
    Glass Mosaics
    Designs and estimates for all sorts of interior decoration

       *       *       *       *       *

RECENTLY PUBLISHED.

[Illustration: DESIGN SELECTED FROM “AMERICAN COTTAGES.”]

A NEW AND IMPORTANT WORK,

AMERICAN COTTAGES,

CONSISTING OF 44 LARGE QUARTO PLATES,

CONTAINING

Original Designs of Medium and Low Cost Cottages, Seaside and Country
Houses. Also, a Club House, School House, Pavilion, and a Small Seaside
Chapel,

TOGETHER WITH A FORM OF SPECIFICATION FOR COTTAGES.

All in the latest prevailing styles, from the drawings of a number
of prominent architects, thus securing a great variety of plans and
diversity of treatment, and offering the largest opportunity for
selection.

ONE LARGE QUARTO VOL. PRICE, POST PAID, $5.

PRESS NOTICES.

Such books as this ... do absolute good to the profession at large,
by showing the public how infinite are the ways of treating the same
problem, and that even if the appropriation is small, it is not necessary
that the building should be in the carpenter vernacular.—_Am. Architect._

This is a very handsomely gotten up book ... some of the designs are
very fine and are in full accord with the present prevailing styles of
architecture, and will be found useful to the man who is about to build,
as well as to the architectural student and professional builder. The
work reflects credit on the publisher.—_Builder and Wood-worker._

... The designs are unique, beautiful, and can be erected at small
cost.—_Lumber Trade Journal._

Devoted to low priced houses ... is a good exhibit of artistic feeling in
their treatment.—_Am. Agriculturalist._

The whole work is an invaluable one to those contemplating building.—_The
Criterion._

Persons about to build will like to consult the collection of designs ...
gathered in American Cottages.—_Home Journal._

Affords a fine field of selection from the latest and most approved
styles of Modern Architecture.—_The Tradesman._

       *       *       *       *       *

JUST PUBLISHED.

A NEW AND REVISED EDITION

_of this important work of especial interest to Architects, Builders,
Painters and House Owners_.

MODERN HOUSE PAINTING

This edition has several new plates, and the whole system of coloring
has been thoroughly revised; new plates in several instances being
substituted for the old ones; the letter press describing the plates has
been entirely re-written, making it practically a new book.

It contains twenty colored lithographic plates, exhibiting the use of
color in Exterior and Interior House Painting, and embracing examples of
simple and elaborate work in plain, graded and parti-colors. Also the
treatment of old styles of houses, together with full descriptive letter
press, covering the preparation, use and application of colors, with
special directions applicable to each example. The whole work offering
valuable hints and suggestions on harmonious color treatment, suitable to
every variety of building.

By E. K. ROSSITER and F. A. WRIGHT, Architects.

1 oblong quarto volume, handsomely bound in cloth. Price, post-paid, $5.00

       *       *       *       *       *

Building Superintendence.

By Professor THEODORE M. CLARK.

1 volume. Profusely illustrated with plans, diagrams, etc. Price, $3.00

An exceedingly valuable work, based on the series of thirty articles
recently published in _The American Architect_, and so fully illustrated
with cuts and diagrams that every point is made very plain. The countless
problems involved in the overseeing of the construction of buildings
are stated, studied and solved in a practical, direct and perfectly
comprehensible manner.

WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 6 Astor Place, New York.

       *       *       *       *       *

RECENTLY PUBLISHED.

INTERIORS AND INTERIOR DETAILS

[Illustration: _Miniature Illustration. Selected from “Interiors and
Interior Details.”_]

Fifty-two large quarto plates, comprising a large number of original
designs of Halls, Stair-cases, Parlors, Libraries, Dining-Rooms, etc.
Together with special designs for Low Cost, Medium and Elaborate Wood
Mantels, Sideboards, Furniture, Wood Ceilings, Doors, Door and Window
Trims, Wainscots, Bank, Office and Store Fittings, in Perspective,
Elevation and Detail, making a valuable series of Suggestions for
Architects, Architectural Designers, Builders and persons intending
to build. And a large collection of interior details suited to the
requirements of carpenters, builders and mechanics, reproduced from the
drawings of prominent architects of New York, Boston, Chicago and other
cities. With an Introduction, Description of Plates, and Notes on Wood
Finish.

By WILLIAM B. TUTHILL, A. M., Architect. Author of “Practical Lessons in
Architectural Drawing.”

1 large quarto volume, handsomely bound in cloth. Price, post-paid, $7.50

WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 6 Astor Place, New York.

       *       *       *       *       *

JUST PUBLISHED.

_An Entirely New and Original Work._

PRACTICAL LESSONS IN ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING

OR

How to Make the Working Drawings for Buildings.

_44 pages descriptive letter press, illustrated by 33 full page plates
(one in colors), and 33 woodcuts, showing methods of construction and
representation._

The work embraces Scale Drawings of Plans, Elevations, Sections and
Details of Frame, Brick and Stone Buildings, with full descriptions and a
form of Specifications adapted to the same.

Suited to the wants of Architectural Students, Carpenters, Builders, and
all desirous of acquiring a thorough knowledge of Architectural DRAWING
and CONSTRUCTION.

CONTENTS.

CHAP. I.—_Introduction._ CHAP. II.—_A Small Frame House._ CHAP. III.—_A
Frame Building._ CHAP. IV.—_A Brick Building._ CHAP. V.—_A Stone
Building._ CHAP. VI.—_The Specifications._ CHAP. VII.—_Color._

By WILLIAM B. TUTHILL, A.M., Architect.

One large 8vo volume, oblong. Cloth. Price, post-paid, $2.50

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

The author has made the most complete and most practical book for
students and builders, ever prepared in this country.—_The American
Bookseller._

The Work is designed as a guide to the making of working drawings and
specifications for buildings and is a valuable and practical aid for
carpenters, builders and architectural students.—_The Publishers Weekly._

This work is of a purely practical and useful kind, and such as we have
frequently had inquiries for. To the carpenter, joiner or architectural
student who is struggling to obtain a knowledge of architectural drawing
and construction, this work will prove of great value.—_The Builder and
Woodworker._

We have been favored with a number of advance sheets of the above work,
and find it, both in conception and execution, worthy of unqualified
praise. The material embraced in this volume promises to be entirely new
and original, and not the mere re-hash of a literary hack. The work will
be a most useful book of instruction.—_The Manufacturer and Builder._

The work is admirably described in its title. The author is a practical
architect and has made a practical book which will be of great assistance
to carpenters, builders, and students, containing just the information
they most need, and are least likely to find in books.—_The United States
News Dealer._

This is probably the most important work to which we have ever drawn
our readers’ attention. It contains within its covers a greater fund of
knowledge than many of the practicing architects of the day possessed
when they first entered the profession. Its usefulness to those who
desire to engage in architecture can therefore be appreciated.—_Carpentry
and Building._

A compact handy little manual, we commend it to students.—_N. Y. Sun._

His drawings are clear and thorough and so detailed as to show the whole
construction.—_The N. Y. World._

Young men who are seeking a profession, will find it a guide.—_N. Y.
Despatch._

The technical work and general construction are admirable. The details
are carefully drawn and show a practiced hand. The introduction is sound.
The work will be welcomed heartily by students and young draftsmen. To
such we cordially recommend it.—_The Sanitary Engineer._

—Is one of the most practical and useful books of the kind that we have
ever noticed. It may also be read with advantage by many practicing
architects.—_California Architect._

       *       *       *       *       *

AN IMPROVED LEVELING INSTRUMENT

_Adapted to the use of Architects, Engineers, Masons, Builders, Farmers
and others._

[Illustration]

The instrument is made of Brass and Iron, Lacquered and Japanned so that
it will not corrode, and consists of the following principal parts:

The Sighting Tube A A´. The Horizontal Circle and the lower Disc or Base
B.

Price of Instrument, Complete, $20.

THE ONLY LOW PRICED LEVEL THAT CAN BE THOROUGHLY ADJUSTED IN THE FIELD.

DESCRIPTION OF THE LEVEL.

The sighting tube A A´ is 14 in. long and has at the end A´ a pin hole
looking through the tube, and at the other end A a small ring inside the
brass shield or outer ring shown in cut holding the cross wires. A cover
is provided as shown in cut to protect the cross wires. This tube rests
in the Ys, Y and Y´. On this tube at the Ys are two rings with flanges,
like car wheels, and it is held in its place by the latches on the top of
the Ys. By loosening these latches this sighting tube may be revolved to
test the adjustment of the cross wires.

At the feet of the Ys will be seen the nuts, one above and one below the
end of the cross bar, which may be turned, thus raising or lowering the
end of the tube and adjusting the line of sight to the line of level. The
circle C is graduated to 10° and the pointer marked to degrees, so that
the instrument may be used in laying off angles, squaring foundations,
&c. The pointer is movable and can be fixed in position by the set screw
shown in the cut just below the cross bar. The cross bar carries the
glass bubble which is seen in the cut. The bubble itself may be adjusted
by the screws. To the circle are attached the two thumb screws and
springs opposite to them by means of which the instrument is brought to a
level.

In the outer edge of the Base B is a smoothly turned groove in which
the feet of the screws and springs may slip easily whenever it may be
necessary to revolve the circle on the base. The centre of the base is
formed into a socket for the ball referred to above. The under surface
has a solid cylinder which screws in the collar of the tripod. The cord
suspending the plumb-bob drops from the centre of the instrument to which
it is attached by a loop not shown in the cut. From this description it
will be seen that this instrument can be _adjusted_ in every way possible
in the highest priced instruments, and has besides the additional feature
of a horizontal circle, making it in reality a plain transit, as well as
level.

_Every instrument will be completely adjusted before it is shipped._

The instrument is put up in a handsome wooden box with strap for carrying
and furnished with a surveyor’s tripod and a short or mason’s tripod.

PRICE OF INSTRUMENT COMPLETE, $20.

Forwarded by express on receipt of price. The charges of transportation
from New York to the purchaser are in all cases to be borne by him, I
guaranteeing the safe arrival of all instruments to the extent of express
transportations, and holding the express companies responsible to me for
all losses or damages on the way.

A NEW LEVELING ROD.

[Illustration]

This rod is round and made in two sections, so that it can be
conveniently carried, is united by a solid screw joint, so that when
together it is as firm as if of one length, and has a target as shown in
illustration, made to slide on the rod.

There are two scales: one side being Engineer’s (feet, 10ths and 100ths);
the other Architect’s scale (or feet, inches and 8ths).

Forwarded by express on receipt of price. The charges of transportation
from New York to the purchaser are in all cases to be borne by him.
Price, $6.00 Where the Level is ordered with the rod, the price of the
two will be, $25.00.

WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Manufacturer, 6 Astor Place, New York.

       *       *       *       *       *

JUST PUBLISHED.

MODERN

Architectural Designs & Details

[Illustration: Miniature of Plate 44, full size 9 × 12.]

CONTAINING 80 FINELY LITHOGRAPHED PLATES;

showing new and original designs of _Dwellings of Moderate Cost_, in the
_Queen Anne_, _Eastlake_, _Elizabethan_, and other modernized styles,
giving Perspective Views, Floor and Framing Plans, Elevations, Sections,
and a great variety of miscellaneous EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR DETAILS of
Dwellings, Stores, Offices, etc. Also, a number of designs of _Low Priced
Cottages_, in the various popular styles, adapted to the requirements of
_Seaside and Summer Resorts_, and

Suburban and Country Places,

comprising drawings by prominent architects of New York, Boston and other
localities, as well as other designs prepared expressly for this work.
All Elevations, Plans and Details to Scale.

One Large (11 × 14) Quarto Volume, handsomely bound in Cloth.

Price, post-paid, $10.00.

☞ For Contents, see following pages. Preface and Contents in English and
German.

       *       *       *       *       *

MODERN

Architectural Designs and Details.

PRICE, POST-PAID, $10.00.

CONTENTS:

    Plate 1—Perspective View and Plans of Queen Anne Cottage.

    Plate 2—Three Elevations of same to ⅛ inch Scale.

    Plate 3—Framing Plans, showing Construction.

    Plate 4—Exterior Details of same, ¼ and ¾ inch Scale and Rear
    Elevation.

    Plate 5—Exterior Details of same, ¼ and ¾ inch Scale.

    Plate 6—Interior Details of same, ¼ and ¾ inch Scale.

    Plate 7—Porch and Details, ½ and ¾ inch Scale, miscellaneous.

    Plate 8—4 Piazzas and Details, ½ and ¾ inch Scale,
    miscellaneous.

    Plate 9—Store Front,                       Scale, ¼ inch, 1 foot
          Details of Show Window,                ”    ½   ”   1  ”
          3 Designs for Counters.                ”    ½   ”   1  ”
          Elevation of Shelves with Sections,    ”    1   ”   1  ”

    Plate 10—3 Store Counters and Sections.
          2 Designs for Shelving and Sections.
          1 Case with Glass Front and Drawers, Scale, ½ in., 1 ft.

    Plate 11—20 Designs for Brackets,            ”    ¾  ”   1 ”

    Plate 12—4 Designs for Gates and Fences,     ”    ¾  ”   1 ”

    Plate 13—10 Designs Window Caps and Hoods,   ”    3  ”   1 ”

    Plate 14—24 Designs Architraves and Bases,   ”    3  ”   1 ”
          2 Designs Wainscoting,                 ”    ¾  ”   1 ”
          2 Designs Window Sills and Aprons,     ”    3  ”   1 ”

    Plate 15—17 Designs, Sections and details of Balconies, Scale,
    ⅜ & ¾ inch, 1 foot.

    Plate 16—6 Elevations and 3 Plans of low priced cottages,
    costing from $500 to $1,500, according to locality. We do not
    publish cost in book, as we prefer to have builders fix prices
    as per requirements. Scale of Elevations and Plans, ³⁄₃₂ inch,
    1 foot.

    Plate 17—6 Elevations and 3 Plans of low priced Cottages, in
    Queen Anne style, costing from $500 to $1,500 and upwards,
    according to locality and style of finish. Scale, ³⁄₃₂ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 18—2 Designs and Details of Summer Houses Scale, ½ & ¼
    in. 1 ft.

    Plate 19—Perspective View and Plans of House Suitable for
    Seaside, Summer or Southern Residence, Scale, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 20—3 Elevations of Design Plate 19. Scale, ⅛ & ⅟₁₆ in, 1
    ft.

    Plate 21—Framing Plans of Design Plate 19. Scale, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 22—Exterior Details of Design Plate 19 Scale, ½ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 23—Interior Details of Design Plate 19 Scale, ½ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 24—9 Designs of Window Sash, Queen Anne Style Scale, ¾
    in. 1 ft.

    Plate 25—2 Elevations and Details of Stores of moderate cost,
    with Dwellings above. Scale, ⅟₁₆, ⅛ and ¾ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 26—Elevations and Details of Stores in Queen Anne Style.
    Scale, ¼,1½ and 3 in. 1 ft.

    Plate 27—2 Elevations and Basement Plan of a First Class Modern
    Dwelling, to cost about $5,000. Scale of Elevations. ⅛ in.
    Scale of Plan. ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 28—First and Second Floor Plans of Design shown on Plates
    27 and 29 Scale ⅛ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 29—2 Elevations and Attic Plan of Design Plate 27. Scale
    of Elevations, ⅓ in. Scale of Plan, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 30—Details of Front Porch Architraves Panels of Front
    Door, etc., of Design Plates 27 and 29. Scale, indicated on
    plate.

    Plate 31—Details of Rear Porch, Front Gable, Balustrade,
    Cornice, Water Table, Shingles, and View of Flower Balcony.
    Scale, ¼ and 1 in. 1 ft.

    Plate 32—20 Designs of Exterior and Interior Cornices and Belt
    Courses. Scale, ½ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 33—5 Cornices, Wood, Terra Cotta and Stone. Scale, 1 in.
    1 ft.

    Plate 34—4 Designs for Single Doors, and 2 Designs and Sections
    of Front and Vestibule Doors. Scale, ½ and 1½ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 35—8 Designs for Exterior and Interior Doors Scale, ½
    in. Details of Panels. ½ full size, and 9 Designs of full size
    Mouldings.

    Plate 36—15 Designs of Windows. Scale, ¼ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 37—2 Designs and Details of Bay Windows. Scale, ¼ and ¾
    in. 1 ft.

    Plate 38—Plans, Elevations and View of a Suburban House of
    moderate cost. Scale indicated on plate.

    Plate 39—Details of Design Plate 38. Scale, ½ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 40—Elevations and Sections of Hall, Library, Parlor and 2
    Chamber Mantels. Scale, ½ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 41—Perspective View and Plans of House costing $6,000.
    Plans to scale.

    Plate 42—2 Elevations of Design Plate 41. Scale, ⅓ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 43—Exterior Details of Design Plates 41 and 42. Scale, ½
    in. 1 ft. General Piazza Details; Front Gable Details; Dormer
    in Small Gable; Tower Dormer; Finial on Tower Roof; Section
    through Main Cornice; Cut Shingles; Small Posts Dormer, with
    Balcony.

    Plate 44—Interior Details of Design Plates 41 and 42. Stair
    Details Rail and Balustrade; scale 1 in. 1 ft.; Bracket in
    Hall: scale, 1 in. 1 ft.; Bracket used on Beam between Library
    and Sitting Room; scale, 3 in. 1 ft.; Window finish; scale, 3
    in. 1 ft.; Elevation of Staircase; scale, 1½ in. 1 ft.; Small
    Post, scale, 1½ in. 1 ft.; Bracket on Small Posts; scale, 1½
    in. 1 ft.; Roll stopping Hand Rail on Newel Post; scale, 1½
    in. 1 ft.; Rosette on Newel; scale, 1½ in. 1 ft.; Stair Newel;
    scale, 1½ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 45—Perspective View of Queen Anne House at Short Hills,
    N. J., with Oriel Bay Window and 4 plans. Plans to scale. Cost
    $6,000.

    Plate 46—Front and Side Elevations of Design Plate 45; scale, ⅓
    in. 1 ft.

    Plate 47—Exterior Details, Design Plates 45 and 46; scale, ½
    in. 1 ft.; Bracket over Balcony; Water Table, etc.; Section
    through Verandah; Tower Finial; Triplet Window in side Gable;
    Carved Panels under front Gable Window; Section through Oriel;
    Porch Gable.

    Plate 48—Interior Details, Design Plates 45 and 46; scale
    of Elevations, ½ in. 1 ft.; scale of details, 1½ in. 1 ft.;
    Interior of Hall; Newel; Baluster Rail, etc.; Wainscot; Hall
    Arch; Triplet Window; Horizontal section; Section through
    window sill; Cornice.

    Plate 49—Perspective View and Plans of a Sea or Lake-Shore
    Cottage. Plans to Scale.

    Plate 50—Water Front and Side Elevation of Design Plate 49.
    Drawn to scale.

    Plate 51—Perspective View of Main Hall of Design Plate 49. Half
    Plan at Fireplace; Half Plan at Shelf; Plan and Elevation of
    Drawing Room; scale, ¼ in. Details of Porch, Gable and Chimney
    at ½ in. scale.

    Plate 52—2 Sea-Side Cottages or Southern Houses, with Front
    Elevations and Plans of First Floor; Scale, ³⁄₃₂ in.

    Plate 53—3 Small Sea-Shore or Southern Cottages, Two Elevations
    of each and one Plan of each. Scale of Elevations, 12 ft. to 1
    in. Scale of Plan 24 and 36 ft. to 1 in.

    Plate 54—5 Designs for Lattice Work. Scale, ⅛ in. to 1 ft.

    Plate 55—6 Specimens of Sea-Side Cottages. Scale Design No. 1,
    ⅛ in. to 1 ft. Scale Designs No. 2 to 6, ³⁄₃₂ in. to 1 ft.

    Plate 56—Inside Finish of a Summer Cottage. Fireplace, Niche
    and Plan Scale. ⅜ in. to 1 ft. Staircase Details and Bracket
    under Beam. Scale, 1 in. to 1 ft.

    Plate 57—Front and North Elevations of a Lake View Cottage.
    Scale, ⅛ in.

    Plate 58—Plans of First and Second Floors, Roof and Attic.
    Scale, ⅟₁₆ in.

    Plate 59—South and Rear Elevations of Lake View Cottage. Scale,
    ⅛ in.

    Plate 60—Details of Lake View Cottage. Hall, Fire-Place and
    Section Scale, ⅜ in. Exterior Finish Scale, ¼ in. Interior
    Finish Scale, ¾ in.

    Plate 61—Plan, Elevations and Sections of a Dining Room Closet.
    Scale of Design, ½ in. Scale of Details, 1½ in.

    Plate 62—Plans, Elevations, Details and Sections of 2 Wash Bowl
    Cabinets. Scales, 1 and 3 in.

    Plate 63—5 Elevations and 4 Plans of Low Priced Colonial
    Cottages. Scale, ³⁄₃₂ in.

    Plate 64—Turned Work. 5 Designs of Posts, 18 Designs of
    Balusters, 3 Designs of Columns, 6 Designs of Drops and 6
    Designs of Finials.

    Plate 65—Perspective View and Plans of a Modern Dwelling
    costing about $3,500. Scale of Plans, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 66—2 Elevations and Sections of Design Plate 65. Scale, ⅛
    in. 1 ft.

    Plate 67—Exterior and Interior Details of Design, plate 65.
    Scale ½ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 68—A Balcony Gable. Scale, ½ in. 1 ft. Section, ¼ in.
    Plan, ⅓ in. Section of Cornices at ½ full size. Baluster, ½
    full size.

    Plate 69—Design of House recently Erected in California. This
    plate shows 2 Plans, 2 Elevations, Sections and Details. Scale,
    ⅟₁₆ to ¼ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 70—3 Designs and Details of Verge Boards. Scale of
    Designs, ½ in. 1 ft. Details, 1½ in.

    Plate 71—2 Plans and 2 Elevations of Dwelling House showing
    Eastlake features. Scale, ⅛ in. 1 ft. to ⅟₃₂ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 72—4 Elevations and 4 Sections of Ventilators. Scale, ¼
    in. 1 ft. to ¾ in. 1 ft.

    Plate 73—Perspective View and Plans of Brick and Frame Cottage.
    Scale, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 foot.

    Plate 74—Three Elevations of Design, Plate 73. Scale, ⅛ and ⅟₁₆
    in. 1 ft.

    Plate 75—Exterior and Interior Details of Design, Plate 73,
    embracing Details of Main Cornice, Parlor Bay, Porch, Cresting,
    Front Staircase and Parlor Mantel. Scales, ½ in. and 1½ in. 1
    foot.

    Plate 76—Dwelling in the Elizabethan Style. Elevations and
    Plans. Scale, ³⁄₃₂ in. 1 foot.

    Plate 77—Fittings for Banking or Insurance Office. Elevations
    and Sections of Counter and Screen; Partition, Balusters, Rail,
    Desk, &c. Scale, ½ in. 1 foot.

    Plate 78—Bank Fixtures, 2 Elevations of Bank Desks, Sections of
    same and Details. Scale of Elevations, ¾ in. 1 foot; Scale of
    Details, 3 in. 1 foot.

    Plate 79—Ventilating Registers, cut in Brass, 2 circular, 2
    oblong, and 3 spandril. Scale, ⅓ and ¼ full size.

    Plate 80—Eight Designs for Chimney Tops. Scale, ½ in. 1 foot.

       *       *       *       *       *

$10.00, Reduced to $6.00.

THIS VALUABLE BOOK,

Detail, Cottage and Constructive Architecture.

[Illustration]

Containing Seventy-Five Large Lithographic Plates, Published under the
direction of A. J. BICKNELL.

Showing a great variety of Designs for Cornices, Brackets, Windows
and Window Caps, Doors, Piazzas, Porches, Bay and Dormer Windows,
Observatories, Towers, Chimney Tops, Balconies, Canopies, Scrolls, Gable
and Sawed Ornaments, Fences, Stairs, Newels, Architraves, Mantels,
Plaster Finish, Etc., including: Forty-five Perspectives, Elevations,
and Plans of Modern Designs for Cottages, with Details, and Eighteen
Elevations of Summer Houses, Villas, Sea-Side Cottages, and Country
Houses, together with Fourteen Designs for Street and Store Fronts,
with inside finish for Stores and Banks; also, Framing for Dwellings,
Barns, Exhibition Buildings, Roofs, Bridges, etc., etc., making in all
a Practical Book for Architects, Builders, Carpenters, and all who
contemplate Building or Remodeling Wood, Stone, or Brick Buildings.

ONE LARGE QUARTO VOLUME. SENT FREE, BY MAIL OR EXPRESS, ON RECEIPT OF
PRICE. $6.00.

_For description of Plates see following pages._

       *       *       *       *       *

RECENTLY PUBLISHED.

[Illustration: “ARTISTIC HOMES.”]

BY A. W. FULLER, Architect,

Containing 44 Plates of Queen Anne and Colonial Style Villas and
Cottages, costing from $700 upwards

_One large (8½ × 12 inches) volume, handsomely bound in Cloth._

PRICE, POST-PAID, $3.50.

CONTENTS:

    Plate I.—Perspective View of Stone and tile villa.

    Plate II.—Floor Plans of Plate I.

    Plate III.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate I,
    showing staircase and terra cotta mantel.

    Plate IV.—Perspective View of Dining Room of Plate I, showing
    fireplace, recess, sideboard, dining table and furniture.

    Plate V.—Perspective View of brick and tile villa.

    Plate VI.—Floor Plans of Plate V.

    Plate VII.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate V,
    showing staircase, fireplace under staircase in arched recess,
    and entrance to conservatory.

    Plate VIII.—Perspective View of wood villa.

    Plate IX.—Floor Plans of Plate VIII.

    Plate X.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate VIII,
    showing staircase, &c.

    Plate XI.—Perspective View of dining room of Plate VIII,
    showing fireplace and mantel, and furniture.

    Plate XII.—Perspective View of “The old made new.”

    Plate XIII.—Perspective View of wood villa.

    Plate XIV.—Floor Plans of Plate XIII.

    Plate XV.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate XIII,
    showing staircase, &c.

    Plate XVI.—Perspective View of wood villa.

    Plate XVII.—Floor Plans of villa No. XVI.

    Plate XVIII.—Perspective View of brick and tile villa.

    Plate XIX.—Floor Plans of Plate XVIII.

    Plate XX.—Perspective View of wood villa.

    Plate XXI.—Floor Plans of Plate XX.

    Plate XXII.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage.

    Plate XXIII.—Floor Plans of Plate XXII.

    Plate XXIV.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage.

    Plate XXV.—Floor Plans of Plate XXIV.

    Plate XXVI.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage.

    Plate XXVII.—Floor Plans of Plate XXVI.

    Plate XXVIII.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage.

    Plate XXIX.—Floor Plans of Plate XXVIII.

    Plate XXX.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage.

    Plate XXXI.—Floor Plans of Plate XXX.

    Plate XXXII.—Perspective View of Seaside Cottage (wood).

    Plate XXXIII.—Floor Plans of Plate XXXII.

    Plate XXXIV.—Perspective View of Seaside Cottage (wood).

    Plate XXXV.—Floor Plans of Plate XXXIV.

    Plate XXXVI.—Perspective View of Bed-room Interior, showing
    furniture.

    Plate XXXVII.—Perspective View of Bed-room Interior, showing
    furniture.

    Plate XXXVIII.—Explanation of the Drainage and Plumbing.

    Plate XXXIX.—Drawing showing the Drain and Plumbing.

    Plate XL.—Perspective View of a City House Front.

    Plate XLI.—Floor Plans of Plate XL.

    Plate XLII.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate XL.,
    showing Staircase, Hatstand, &c.

    Plate XLIII.—Floor Plans of a City House built in a block.

    Plate XLIV.—Perspective View of a Country Church built of brick
    and Stone, and costing $10,000.

       *       *       *       *       *

STANDARD ARCHITECTURAL BOOKS

=BICKNELL’S DETAIL, COTTAGE AND CONSTRUCTIVE ARCHITECTURE.= Containing
seventy-five large Lithographic Plates, published under the direction
of A. J. BICKNELL, showing a great variety of Designs for Cornices,
Brackets, Windows and Window Caps, Doors, Piazzas, Porches, Bay and
Dormer Windows, Observatories, Towers, Chimney Tops, Balconies, Canopies,
Scrolls, Gable and Sawed Ornaments, Fences, Stairs, Newels, Architraves,
Mantles, Plaster Finish, etc., including forty-five Perspectives,
Elevations and Plans of Modern Designs for Cottages, with Details, and
eighteen Elevations of Summer Houses, Villas, Seaside Cottages and
Country Houses, together with fourteen Designs for Street and Store
Fronts, with inside finish for Stores and Banks; also Framing for
Dwellings, Barns, Exhibition Buildings, Roofs, Bridges, etc., making
in all a Practical Book for Architects, Builders, Carpenters, and all
who contemplate Building or Remodeling Wood, Stone or Brick Buildings.
One large 4to volume, sent free by mail or express on receipt of price.
Reduced from $10.00 to $6.00.

=BROWN’S BUILDING TABLE AND ESTIMATE BOOK.= By a Practical Mechanic. For
Carpenters, Builders and Lumber Men. One 8vo volume, cloth, 152 pages.
$1.50.

=CAMP’S DRAFTSMAN’S MANUAL; or, How Can I Learn Architecture.= By F. T.
CAMP. Containing Hints to Enquirers and Directions in Draftsmanship.
Contents:—Introduction; Preliminary Words; Draftsman’s Outfit; Technics
of Planning; General Remarks on Planning; General Remarks on Exteriors;
Drawing the Plan; Using the Instruments; Designing the Elevations;
Tracing and Inking; Proportion of Rooms. New, Revised and Enlarged
Edition. One small volume, cloth. Price 50c.

=CUMMINGS’ ARCHITECTURAL DETAILS.= By M. F. CUMMINGS, M. A., Architect,
Associate Author of “Architecture, by Cummings and Miller.” Containing
387 Designs and 967 Illustrations of the Various Parts needed in the
Construction of Buildings, Public and Private, both for the City and
Country; also Plans and Elevations of Houses, Stores, Cottages, and other
Buildings. One large 4to volume, fifty-six Plates. Reduced from $10.00 to
$6.00.

=GARDNER’S COMMON SENSE IN CHURCH BUILDING.= By E. C. GARDNER, author of
“Homes and How to Make them,” “Illustrated Homes,” and “Home Interiors.”
Illustrated by seven original Plates. One 12mo volume, handsomely bound
in cloth. Price $1.00.

=GOULD’S CARPENTERS’ AND BUILDERS’ ASSISTANT AND WOODWORKERS’ GUIDE.=
By L. D. GOULD, Architect and Practical Builder. (Fourth Revised
Edition) Containing thirty-six Plates, fully described. Also, Tables
of the Strength of Materials, Length of Braces where the Run is given,
and Length of Run where the Brace is given. Technical Terms used by
Carpenters, etc. This work is intended to combine all the knowledge the
workman requires to construct any design in carpentry by an easy system
of lines. 8vo volume, bound in cloth. Price $2.50.

=HULME’S TREATISE ON MATHEMATICAL DRAWING INSTRUMENTS, and How to Use
Them.= One imperial 16mo volume, bound in cloth, containing 152 Pages,
and over 70 Illustrations, including 11 different Styles of Lettering.
Price $1.50.

=HUSSEY’S HOME BUILDING.= This work contains 42 Plates of Designs and
Plans of Dwellings of low and medium cost, with short Descriptive
Specifications, including 2 Designs for Small Barns, 1 Design for
Carriage-House, 1 Design for Small Bank Building, 1 Design for Small
Chapel, and 1 Design for a Church. Nearly 400 pages in all, including
letter-press. Price $2.50.

=INTERIORS AND INTERIOR DETAILS.= With an Introduction, Description of
Plates, and Notes on Wood Finish, by WM. B. TUTHILL, A. M., Architect,
author of “Practical Lessons in Architectural Drawing.” Fifty-two large
quarto plates, comprising a large number of original designs of Halls,
Staircases, Parlors, Libraries, Dining rooms, etc. Together with special
designs for Low Cost, Medium and Elaborate Wood Mantels, Sideboards,
Furniture, Wood Ceilings, Doors, Door and Window Trims, Wainscots,
Bank Office, and Store Fittings, in Perspective, Elevation and Detail,
making a valuable series of Suggestions for Architects and Architectural
Designers. And a large collection of interior details suited to the
requirements of carpenters, builders and mechanics, reproduced from the
drawings of prominent architects of New York, Boston, Chicago, and other
cities. One large quarto volume, handsomely bound in cloth. Price $7.50.

=MITCHELL’S STEPPING-STONE TO ARCHITECTURE.= By THOMAS MITCHELL. Nearly
100 engravings. Price 60c.

=ROSSITER & WRIGHT’S MODERN HOUSE PAINTING.= (New Edition). By E. K.
ROSSITER and F. A. WRIGHT, Architects. Containing 20 colored lithographic
plates, exhibiting the use of color in the Exterior and Interior House
Painting, and embracing examples of simple and elaborate work in plain,
graded and parti-colors. Also the treatment of old style of houses,
together with full descriptive letter press, covering the preparation,
use and application of colors, with special directions applicable to
each example. The whole work offering valuable hints and suggestions on
harmonious color treatment, suitable to every variety of building. One
oblong quarto volume, handsomely bound in cloth. Price $5.00.

=TUTHILL’S PRACTICAL LESSONS IN ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING; Or, How to Make
the Working Drawings for Buildings.= By WM. B. TUTHILL, A. M., Architect.
44 pages descriptive letter-press, illustrated by 33 full-page plates
(one in colors) and 33 wood-cuts, showing methods of construction and
representation. One large 8vo volume, oblong. Cloth. Price $2.50.

=WITHERS’ CHURCH ARCHITECTURE.= By FREDERICK CLARK WITHERS. Illustrated
with Plans, Elevations and Views of twenty-one Churches and two School
Houses, Photo-Lithographed from original drawings; also full descriptive
letter-press, which includes numerous engravings on wood, showing
construction and details. One large volume of fifty-one 9 × 10 Plates,
substantially bound in extra cloth. Sent by express to any part of the
United States on receipt of the price $10.00.

       *       *       *       *       *

HINTS ON THE Drainage and Sewerage of Dwellings.

By WM. PAUL GERHARD, Civil Engineer.

One 12mo volume. Cloth, Price, $2.50.

CONTENTS.

  CHAPTER I.—Fresh Air versus Sewer Gas.
     ”   II.—Necessity of Ventilation in Rooms containing “Modern
               Conveniences, and Defective Arrangements of Plumbing
               Fixtures.” Figs. 1 to 18.
     ”  III.—Soil and Waste Pipe System as usually found in Dwellings.
               Figs. 19 to 31.
     ”   IV.—Traps and Systems of Trapping. Figs 32 to 38.
     ”    V.—Details of Traps. Figs. 39 to 159.
     ”   VI.—Insecurity of Common Water Seal Traps. Figs. 160 to 164.
     ”  VII.—Defects in the Plumbing Work of Dwellings.
     ” VIII.—Cellar Drains and Drainage of Cellars. Figs. 165 to 169.
     ”   IX.—Usual Defects of House Drains, Sewer Connections, Privies,
               Vaults and Cesspools. Figs. 170 to 181.
     ”    X.—System of Plumbing as it should be inside a Dwelling. Figs.
               182 to 206.
     ”   XI.—Plumbing Fixtures. Figs. 207 to 262.
     ”  XII.—Removal and Disposal of Household Wastes. Figs. 263 to 282.

_NOTICES OF THE PRESS._

Rarely do we find between the covers of one small book more satisfactory
wisdom than is contained in Mr. Wm. Paul Gerhard’s “Drainage and Sewerage
of Dwellings.”... Typographically, the book is all that can be desired,
the binding is elegant, and the illustrations are copious and clear.—_The
Builder._

... It contains a large amount of well-digested matter, is copiously
illustrated on almost every page, and written in a clear and direct
style.... We recommend the work to all who are interested in the subject
as a valuable addition to the existing literature on the subject
treated.—_The Sanitary Engineer._

Mr. Gerhard again shows his practical acquaintance with sanitary matters
and the best remedies and methods to correct the prevalent evils
connected with the application of this important science in the work
before us. The very presentable manner, in which the author treats his
subject, is by no means the least valuable feature of his literary work
in the direction indicated.—_American Engineer._

... While it does not pretend to be an _exhaustive_ treatise on these
subjects, it most certainly possesses a practical value, which is far
superior to many of the larger works on Dwelling House Sanitation.
The author has wisely employed the _pencil_ as well as the pen in the
illustration of his subject. And when we state the fact that there are
282 illustrations (not old ones already used in other works, but mostly
new, fresh and artistic) within the compass of 302 pages, it will be
seen that suggestion and instruction are conveyed in the most direct and
forcible manner.... There is throughout the book a remarkable absence
of any “pet theory,” or of the advertisement of any special “patent”—in
short, it is a book which we should like to see upon the library table of
every physician in the land.—_N. Y. Medical Times._

Our readers are already familiar with the thoroughly lucid and practical
style of Mr. Gerhard’s contributions to sanitary works. We commend this
book as a brief manual to all architects, engineers, builders, mechanics,
physicians, sanitarians and householders—to none more than the last.—_The
Sanitarian._

We have seen no more thorough, intelligent and convincing discussion
of the important subject of house drainage than Mr. Wm. Paul Gerhard’s
“Hints on the Drainage and Sewerage of Dwellings.”—_Literary World._

A volume on domestic economy, well worth examination, is _Hints on the
Drainage and Sewerage of Dwellings_, by Wm. Paul Gerhard, C. E., a 16mo.
of about 300 pages, which states clearly the correct principles and
methods, shows by copious intelligible diagrams the ordinary variations,
neglects and defects, and contains in large variety and full detail,
descriptions and drawings of the means and appliances that may be relied
on, and the principle of their construction and operation. For full,
intelligent treatment of all questions involved, both in theory and
practice, relating to the causes of trouble, the theories involved in
their treatment, and the mechanical appliances available, this is the
very best condensed manual that has yet appeared.—_The Independent._

This valuable little manual consists of articles from “Building,” revised
and extended, and will be found of much service by builders, architects,
physicians and householders.... It would be a good idea for every head
of a family to examine the sanitary state of his or her surroundings,
with this book as a guide.... So also, those intending to lease or buy
new houses, would find the price of the work an ounce of prevention which
could not be better expended. Mr. Gerhard is an experienced engineer,
well read in sanitary literature, and a clear and careful writer.—_The
Christian Union._

       *       *       *       *       *

“BUILDING.”

AN ARCHITECTURAL MONTHLY.

Subscription, $1.00 per Year, in advance. Single Copies, 10 cts.

Treating on all matters of interest to the Building trades. _Each number
contains 4 full-page lithographic plates._ With the February number will
commence a series of articles on Roof Construction, fully illustrated,
by Prof. N. CLIFFORD RICKER, of the Illinois Industrial University.
The _Competition Designs for a $2,500 Cottage_ are now in course of
publication.

Samples sent on application. Special inducements will be offered those
wishing to get up clubs; _send for club rates_.

“SPECIAL ILLUSTRATED EDITION OF BUILDING.”

DEVOTED TO ARCHITECTURE, FURNITURE, DECORATION AND ORNAMENT.

_PUBLISHED MONTHLY._

Subscription, $5 a Year in advance. Single Copies, 50c.

It is intended to make this a most elaborate and complete architectural
journal. It will be issued in a handsome cover, and contain in addition
to the contents of the regular issue of “BUILDING,” a large number of
Lithographic Plates, a special feature of which will be the republication
of the best designs selected from the _leading foreign journals_, so that
subscribers for this monthly will obtain the _cream_ of all the _foreign
publications_ on these subjects.

Each number contains _16 full-page lithographic plates_.

PRESS NOTICES

Of “BUILDING,” and the “SPECIAL ILLUSTRATED EDITION OF BUILDING.”

It is not often that so much and so valuable material is found at one
time in a trade journal.—_The Publishers’ Weekly._

In its specialty this journal cannot fail to be of the greatest service,
and all persons interested in building should avail themselves of its
store of valuable information.—_Bookseller and Stationer._

The magazine is well edited, and must prove very interesting to those
interested in building.—_American Machinist._

Mr. Comstock is to be congratulated upon the contents and general
appearance of his Special Illustrated Edition of BUILDING. We have no
doubt this new venture will be appreciated by the architectural and
building public.—_Engineering News._

The first number of the second volume of BUILDING, an excellent
architectural monthly, has just made its appearance. It is full of
instructive matter, and the illustrations are numerous, well executed and
interesting.—_The Evening Telegram._

For an architect or builder, this publication cannot fail to be of great
and continual interest.—_The New York World._

We are in receipt of BUILDING. It bears eloquent testimony to
eminent literary, as well as artistic talent, connected with its
publication.—_Chemical Review._

“BUILDING” begins its second volume with a special number filled with a
rich array of illustrations.... Persons who desire a monthly magazine,
devoted to the circle of arts, included under the title of building, will
do well to examine this work.—_Home Journal._

One of the handsomest and best architectural papers among our exchanges
is BUILDING. Well illustrated, printed and edited, treating on all
matters of interest to the building trade.—_Wood and Iron._

We most heartily congratulate Mr. Comstock on the fine appearance of
BUILDING, and feel confident he will meet with the success his energy and
enterprise deserves.—_American Real Estate Guide._

In the richness of contents, beauty of illustrations, the current number
of BUILDING is a decided credit to American journalism.—_Trade Review and
Western Machinist._

The value to the architect and builder cannot be overestimated, and the
price, five dollars a year, is a merely nominal consideration for the
subjects of interest and instruction it possesses.—_Lumber Trade Journal._

Very attractive in appearance, and is well worthy of liberal
patronage.—_American Engineer._

Nothing finer in its way has been offered to the public.—_The Mechanical
News._

The illustrations are very artistic.—_The Sanitary News._

The number before us is in itself a complete book on building and kindred
subjects.—_Chattanooga Daily Times._

We commend the BUILDING to our students, amateurs and professors in
architecture and building.—_Ithaca Daily Journal._

It is without doubt the most valuable publication of the kind published
in the country.—_Southern Lumberman._

One of the best architectural periodicals of the day is BUILDING.—_The
Christian Union._

BUILDING, an architectural monthly.... This new claimant for public favor
well deserves it.... Every number is worth the subscription price to any
who have interest in building, old or new.—_Living Church, Chicago._

_Persons sending 50c. for sample copy of the “SPECIAL ILLUSTRATED EDITION
OF BUILDING” will receive a receipt entitling them to the remaining
numbers for the year on receipt of $4.50, provided their subscription is
received within 60 days thereafter._

[Illustration: _Miniature Illustration. Selected from the “Special
Illustrated Edition of Building.”_]

Subscription, $5.00 per Year. Single Copies, 50 cents.

[Illustration: _Miniature Illustration. Selected from “Building.”_]

Subscription, $1.00 per Year. Single Copies, 10 cents.

WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 6 Astor Place, NEW YORK.

[Illustration: _Miniature Illustration. Selected from “Building.”_]

BUILDING.

Regular Edition, $1.00 per Year.

Special Illustrated Edition, $5.00 per Year.

WM. T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 6 Astor Place, N. Y.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: _Lincrusta-Walton_

THE New Indestructible AND Imperishable Decoration FOR WALLS AND
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_Lincrusta-Walton_]

[Illustration: WAINSCOTING IN LINCRUSTA-WALTON.]

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Lincrusta-Walton is the refinement of all previous systems of decoration.
The designs are of a high order of artistic merit, making the material
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The Material

is water-proof. Durable as the wall. Has many _sanitary advantages_. As
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Cost.

The price is quite moderate, and its durability renders its use
economical.

New Buildings

can be permanently decorated at once, as Lincrusta-Walton is unaffected
by moisture, and excludes damp. Now in general use in Public Buildings
and Private Dwellings, Hotels, Offices, and the homes of the people. Sold
by all Decorators, Furniture, Wall Paper and Art Dealers throughout the
United States. _Send for Descriptive Pamphlet._

FR. BECK & CO. Manufacturers of Fine Wall Papers, Corner 29th Street and
7th Avenue, N. Y.

The only Manufacturers of Lincrusta-Walton in the United States under the
patents.

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_Our paints are sold by U.S. Standard Gallon measure (231 cubic inches);
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