This eBook was produced by David Schwan <davidsch@earthlink.net>.




The Log of the Empire State
by Geneve L. A. Shaffer




Dedicated to My Mother and Your Mother



To My Mother

Your little hands are folded,
   Your tired breast is still.
But your valiant heart beats on and on,
   And so forever will.
In the lives of those who knew you,
Each gentle beat will bring
   An echo sweet and tender,
To linger there and sing.

By C. T. S.



The Log of the Empire State



Introduction



As Miss Shaffer was appointed the special representative of the San
Francisco Examiner on the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce, Commercial
Relationship Tour of the Orient, as well as being a member of the San
Francisco Chamber of Commerce, she was requested to write this little
book covering the three months' trip, and she wishes to thank all the
members of the party for their kindly interest and cooperation in
helping her secure much of the information contained herein.



Chapter I



Before we had reached the Golden Gate we acted like some great happy
family, eager to enjoy every minute. After we stopped waving our tired
arms to the crowds of friends on the docks and the last bouquet aimed at
the Mayor's tug had landed in the bay, small groups, with radiant faces,
discussed what do you suppose? No, not the crossing of the Bar, but the
opening of the ship's bar. As you know, Uncle Sam seems to consider the
dry law impossible on the water.

We were all saying that San Francisco's farewell made us proud to belong
to such a city, when M. A. Gale told us that he wanted to add a word of
praise for one of San Francisco's traffic officers, who let him by when
he made a speedy trip for some valuables left behind, which had just
been missed at the last moment. But, do you remember who was the last
passenger? She was nervous and fidgety ever since she came on board,
too. None other than Bulah, the handsome mare bound for Yokohama. It was
worth going through the steerage to watch her enjoy one of our "eleven
o'clock" apples.

When the lunch gong sounded, we all went below (doesn't that sound real
nautical?) to try and get settled in our home for the next three months.
Apparently there was no place left for even our hats, thoughtful gifts,
fruits, candy and flowers, filled every inch of ordinary space.
Christmas time was tame by comparison.

Many were down to lunch, fortified by a highball, but at dinner, mal de
mer had claimed its victims, and there were only a few brave spirits on
deck to indulge in dancing the first night.

The second day out everybody was trying to remember everyone else by
name. One positive lady insisted that A. I. Esberg was Dr. Morton, but
little mistakes were forgotten, and many of the committee were soon
calling each other by their first names.

While most of us were getting comfortably settled in our deck chairs,
someone noticed that Louis Glass, George Vranizan, C. W. Hinchcliffe,
Carl Westerfeld, C. A. Thayer, C. H. James, William Symon, F. S.
Ballinger, P. H. Lyon, S. L. Schwartz and Henry Mattlage had disappeared
below. And it is said by one who trailed them to their lair, that the
Fantan and Pie-gow games, going on in the steerage, were the magnet.

There were other discoveries in the steerage. A Servian girl, Alma
Karlin, who speaks ten languages fluently, but could not afford a
first-class passage (although once well-to-do) on account of the low
exchange value of her country's money. She is on a three-year tour to
study conditions in the Pacific Islands, to learn if her countrymen can
successfully immigrate to this region.

A young American married to a Chinaman, a group of Orientals devouring
an odd-looking concoction with chop sticks, a motley group of Hindus
with their fezzes, made the picturesque gathering, that gladly received
the surplus fruits distributed by the belles of the ship.

We struck a squall that surprised many of us enjoying the salt sea
breeze in our stuffy state rooms, by washing the spray over our neatly
put-out dinner clothes. That night it took real sea legs to dance while
the ship rocked. But it was great sport, and Sidney Kahn's University
Orchestra "jazzed" on as if they were on solid ground.

The third day all of the officers appeared in white. White duck curtains
replaced the wooden doors. The women blossomed out in the daintiest of
summer frocks, the men in white flannels, and although most of us found
our shoes difficult to put on (in spite of the fact that we all had
shoes a half a size larger) deck games were in full swing and sea
sickness was a thing of the past.

Commissioner Krull was the first to jump into the open-air swimming
tank, some of the ladies following. But it took deck tennis and the
tropics to make the tank popular.

Captain Nelson took us on a tour of inspection, and as eating was the
principal occupation, we asked to see the electrically operated galley
first, for, next to the bar, it was the chief attraction. We all have
heard of electric dish washers, potato peelers, knife sharpeners, bread
bakers, cake mixers, etc., but what a guarantee for matrimonial bliss
there would be if every young bride could be as sure as this ship was to
please the most particular of husbands. How? By using an automatic,
electric egg boiler that can be set for any time, and when the desired
number of minutes is reached, presto! up comes the egg out of the
boiling water! Not a second overdone, or underdone. In China some of us
were given, as a great delicacy, a "twenty-year-old egg" and toward the
end of the trip many of us had lost interest in all eggs, no matter how
cooked.

The stoves burn oil, and although the day was hot, and the noon meal was
in preparation, there was no excessive heat and no fumes. The white-clad
Chinese waiters did their appointed tasks with the smoothness and lack
of confusion of clockwork.

Our smiling waiters greeted us every morning in long blue kimonos. Ours
answered to the name of Arling, and after one had ordered an abnormal
breakfast, he suggested that the griddle cakes were "veery goo-wd."
Everyone ate more than they ever thought they could, and when at eleven
o'clock, the deck boy came along with broth, few there were that had the
courage to say, "No." The tang of the sea caused groups to invade the
charming tea-room, with its yellow curtains and painted wicker
furniture, at tiffin time. And if chicken, a-la-King, was served after
the nightly dancing party, - well, everyone said, "We don't make a trip
like this every day, so, why not?"

There was a weighing machine on the lower deck, but, we all believed
that it must have been out of order. If we had not gained any more
pounds than we had spent for oriental souvenirs, we would have been
lucky.

Some of the older members of the party welcomed the Sunday evening
movies instead of the strenuous dancing, but we were all glad to go to
bed after the movie villain had been killed.



Chapter II



The servants were so attentive and the beds so soft that many of the
ladies fell into the custom of having breakfast in the staterooms.

After lunch one sunny day we mounted the steep little stairs to the
captain's quarters. His spacious combination living and bedroom with
private bath was a miracle to those of us who had to have the room boy
move the luggage in order to have space enough to open the quaint little
bureau drawers. On his center table was one of those strange dwarf
Japanese trees, that are not permitted to be imported. These odd plants
seem to thrive in spite of their diet of whiskey and the binding of
their branches with tiny wires - perhaps, if they must be fed
exclusively on whiskey, there is another reason besides the possibility
of their bringing into our country a foreign insect that excludes them.

We were told that the captain's and officers' quarters were certified
and not counted when the capacity of the ship was figured, so the ship
seemed bigger than ever to us. Next we invaded the chart room, saw the
device that tells the whereabouts of a coming typhoon, listened to the
telephonic arrangement that proclaims the proximity of the buoy bells,
watched the little indicator that makes a red line depicting the exact
course of the ship on a circular chart, tried out the fire alarm system
that instantly rings a bell if a high temperature is registered any
place on the ship, from the bridal suite to the darkest corner of the
hold. We set the fog whistle to blow at regular intervals. We were told
that the searchlight could enable the pilot to discover objects about
five miles out, and by the time the gyro compass and numerous other
devices had been explained to us, we were ready to believe that the ship
cost seven million dollars, and that five thousand dollars was the daily
operating expense (two thousand dollars of which was spent for the one
thousand gallons of oil).

The mock trial was one of the features of the trip. Nearly everyone was
arrested, sentenced or fined. Mrs. F. Panter's and Captain Ruben
Robinson's trials were the most sensational. In spite of Carl
Westerfeld's efforts to save Captain Robinson from being convicted of
fox trotting with a certain charming widow, he was heavily sentenced.
Louis C. Brown was released upon the hearing of the eloquent pleadings
of his attorney, Louis H. Mooser. At the close of the session,
Commissioner Francis Krull imposed a fine upon himself for his merciful
tendencies as the judge.

When a crowd of us piled into the wireless room and asked the whys and
wherefores, the poor operator gave up trying to explain why the messages
were all sent at night, and settled the matter by telling us that the
atmospheric conditions were better then, and that the ship was equipped
with two systems, the spark and the arc, but that the arc was given the
preference. The Empire State kept its apparatus tuned to the one at
Sloat Boulevard, so if any of those at home missed us, just all they had
to do was to drive past that station any night, and, perhaps, at that
very moment, a message was being received from us.

When we saw land, the women immediately planned a meeting to discuss
what to wear and do when we arrived in Honolulu on the following day. A.
I. Esberg gave an address the evening before on the meaning of our
Commercial Relationship tour and the good-will that he believed San
Francisco would establish by this mission. Afterward we danced, then
followed a Chinese supper. Yes, we were eating again.

No alarm clock that was ever invented smote the ears with greater
animosity than did the ship's gong at 6:30 the morning we arrived at
Honolulu. If it had not been for the fact that the committee was there
(just outside our portholes, in yachts loaded with leis to welcome us)
it would have taken even more than that disturber of the peace to arouse
us, for sleep seemed the most desired thing after the Chinese dinner
dance that had lasted until the wee hours.

We were all at the luncheon given to us by the Honolulu Commercial Club.
Faxton Bishop told us of the seriousness of the labor situation and
asked our aid. We all remember how eloquently our much lamented
spokesman, A. F. Morrison, answered the address and said that
California's prosperity depended in many ways upon Hawaiian prosperity
and their problems were our problems.

Wallace R. Farrington, Governor of the Territory of Hawaii, said that
the labor situation must be solved to insure the prosperity of the
islands.

We were next whizzed to the Outrigger Club, and if everyone had seen how
hard Warren Shannon paddled to reach the crest of a wave before it
broke, they would all be convinced that he was the hardest working
supervisor we have.

John H. Wilson, the mayor of Honolulu, motored our party around the
island and gave us a luncheon at a hotel near one of the beaches. We
will remember this day as one of our happiest.



Chapter III



The first day out of Honolulu we were all discussing our impressions.
Most of us had passed the Honolulu schools at recess time and had noted
only one or two white-skinned children. It was, as Dr. A. W. Morton
expressed it, "Looks like a little Japan." Of course, everyone knows of
the vividness and great variety of the coloring of the foliage in sharp
contrast to the brilliant pink soil, but we could not stop talking about
it. Some of us noted the beauty of a little plant, which at home we
carefully water and cherish in some tiny pot, only to learn that on the
Island it grows in such abundance that it is considered nearly as great
a pest as the Mediterranean fly - so it would seem that beauty in the
vegetable kingdom does not always mean desirability, any more than it
does in the human family.

Many of us had been taken over the sugar-cane plantations, seen the
young plants pushing through the paper (put over them to keep out the
weeds), gone through the refineries, seeing the cane stalks ground in
the huge rollers and had been allowed to taste the sickeningly sweet
molasses. Along the roads were Hawaiian huts with octopi drying on the
porches, beside the reclining figures of the strong providers of the
family, resting up, no doubt, from the task of catching and killing the
octopi by hitting the squid's heads.

Some of the party waxed eloquent about the wonderful leprosy cures,
recently accomplished in the Islands, through the discoveries of the
chemist Dr. Dean, who took the chalmoogra oil used in India over a
thousand years ago as a cure (but according to tradition, the sufferers
considered the cure worse than the disease) and made it possible to
take.

Some of us stopped to investigate the powerful wireless station with the
instruments capable of receiving messages at a distance of 5000 miles.
Still others told of the island at the Pearl Harbor Naval station being
purchased for ten thousand dollars and then being sold to our government
for 400,000 dollars.

Many had not only received the leis, but a new native name as well, for,
as you know, it is the Hawaiian way of labeling everyone with some name
that to the Islander expresses their predominant characteristic.

We were gazing at the magnificent sunset, when someone who seemed to
have inside information, repeated the old adage, "A red sky at night is
the sailor's delight, but if followed by a red sky in the morning, it's
the sailor's warning." We had all found the tranquil waters of the
Pacific so refreshing after the rush and excitement of Honolulu
sightseeing, and did not know that the worst storm the Empire State had
experienced was before us.

Most of us rolled out of bed the next morning, and the only reason some
of us did not fall to the floor was because the bureaus stopped us half
way, with many a resounding thud. Many of the party did not attempt to
get up or out of the staterooms. Will we ever forget the dining tables
equipped with metal railings, divided into sections to hold in the
dishes? Even then, the eggs and cream rolled over the cloth or into our
unreceptive laps, and the way the waiters moistened the cloth in the
spots where they set the water glasses in an attempt to make them stay
put. But they would not any more than our tummies would "stay put."

We then appreciated the necessity of the railings all over the ship,
especially when we commenced to hit each side of the passage way in
trying to step forward. Edward C. Wagner was jestingly remarking to
Louis Glass that if he should fall, there would be broken "Glass." It
was but a short while afterward when an unexpected lurch of the ship
threw him to the deck, breaking his glasses.

We all remember that the deck chairs had an unpleasant way of sliding
until they hit the opposite wall, bouncing out the sea-sick occupants.
Even in getting out of the chairs (tied to the railings) many of us
fell. The upper deck looked like the ward of an emergency hospital. Mrs.
A. F. Morrison had fallen, breaking a bone in her wrist, Mrs. E.
Dinkelspiel had her head injured, Louis Glass had a bandage over his cut
face, and scarcely anyone escaped without black and blue marks.

To see one of our capitalists being led weakly by a strong attendant,
while grasping his mal de mer tin firmly, was a sight unnoticed, in the
tumult of rushing waves. Of course, all portholes were closed, two of
the crew narrowly escaped being washed overboard. Their spotless uniform
of white had long since been discarded for rain coats and high boots.
Some of us slept out on deck rather than negotiate the treacherous
stairs to the uncertain joys of a stateroom in which the trunks had to
be lashed to the walls to avoid painful contact (you see, many of us had
the vivid recollection of the crashes that woke us). In most cases the
dainty bureau scarfs upon which reposed the Cologne bottle, mirror,
powder, hairpins, etc., etc., had dashed into one conglomerate, broken
mass on the floor.

M. A. Gale and Warren Shannon (usually the life of the party) were seen
in dejected heaps, with only half-closed eyes visible above the steamer
robes.

Mrs. Carrie Schwabacher gathered about the piano those well enough to be
about (after the storm had been raging for two days and nights), playing
old-fashioned songs, to try to raise the drooping spirits.

Chanticleer never greeted the morning with gayer spirits than this
party, when we saw the clouds had rolled away, and when someone
repeated, "On the road to Mandilay, where the flying fishes play" (while
we watched the flying fishes play), all the old familiar quotations took
on a new significance of realty.



Chapter IV



On  October 10, Dorothy Gee, the Chinese girl banker of San Francisco,
presided over the ceremony celebrating the tenth anniversary of the
Chinese independence Day, held in the steerage. Besides giving a clever
address, she acted as interpreter for the speeches delivered by F. R.
Eldridge, chief of the Far Eastern Division for the Bureau of Foreign
and Domestic Commerce, A. F. Morrison and A. I. Esberg.

Many of us felt a great curiosity to see the engine that had pushed us
through the storm, so we descended countless iron stairs, down to the
very bottom of the ship; above us towered a bewildering assortment of
ladders, levers, pipes and valves. The heat was over-powering, so we
rushed to the ventilator and cooled off quickly. The deafening noise
prevented us from hearing all the engineer's explanations. Next we were
taken singly (as the space between the two massive doors will not permit
of more) through the two massive doors separating the boilers from the
rest of the ship. In case of an accident all the doors of the ship,
including these, could be automatically closed from the deck, dividing
the ship into three compartments.

We saw how the thirty-seven cakes of ice, consumed daily, were made,
inspected the laundry and peeked in where the precious, rapidly
diminishing liquors were stored, and we all felt satisfied that we knew
"What made the wheels go around."

With the regular meetings of the Executive committee, with Herbert
Hoover's Trade Investigation committee (consisting of Lansing Hoyt, C.
J. Mayer, Gordon Enders, E. Kehich, Paul Steindorff and headed by F. R.
Eldridge), mingling with the party to assist in establishing friendly
commercial relationship; with all those identified with certain
businesses and professions divided into groups, and even with the women
organized, we felt ready to meet any Oriental dignitaries, or
delegations.

We remember well how often Warren Shannon, with his unfailing humor,
sent us into gales of laughter, auctioning off the numbers that
represented the possible run of the ship on the following day. Louis
Mooser bid the first one hundred dollars on the number that won the
pool. C. H. Matlage, William Muir, F. H. Speich, Louis Brown, Mrs. S.
Schwartz and Mrs. Carrie Schwabacher were also heavy bidders.

Everyone started borrowing clothes from everyone else, right after
breakfast, the day of the masquerade. P. J. Lyon made a very gay girl,
C. R. Reed went as Woodrow Wilson, A. I. Esberg as a Chinese, C. B.
Lastrete as a bandit, Margarete Rice as Cleopatra, Mrs. Bruce Foulkes as
a beautiful Spanish senorita, Constant Meese, W. Levintritt, F. W. Boole
and C. H. Matlage as "Four Dainty Kewpies," Edward C. Wagner as an
oiler, and Carl Westerfeld was a regular devil.

Of course, Mrs. A. Gee, Mrs. A. B. Luther, Mrs. Washburn, Mrs. Wheeler,
Mrs. Boole, Mrs. Wood, Mrs. Shannon and Mrs. Grady looked charming, as
usual. The Misses Bridge, Miss Kinslow, Miss Neff and Miss Bell also
looked attractive. Dr. Gates, Dr. Judell, Miss Simon, Mrs. Rothenberg,
Mrs. Denson, Mrs. Dunn, Mrs. Yates, the Misses Hunter, Mrs. Barnard,
Miss James, Mrs. Ross, A. W. Morton, Jr., and Mrs. Krull went to such a
lot of trouble to get up their interesting costumes. Henry S. Bridge
had, "a fine make-up" and looked like a real Southern Negro. Pretty Miss
Howlett and Miss Wood always made one think of the posters of "Sweet
Sixteen."

Warren Shannon's Entertainment committee, assisted by Miss Moore, Miss
Craig, Mrs. Bercovich and Mrs. Panter, certainly discovered the talent
on board and we will always be grateful for the sweet singing of
charming Mrs. Gale, Mrs. Brown, Mrs. Schwartz and Miss Reed and the
playing of Miss Moore, Mrs. Alexander and of our talented "Mary."

If anyone felt a bit out of sorts all they had to do was to think of the
courage and sweet, uncomplaining manner of Mrs. Morrison or what good
sailors Mrs. Anna R. Luther and Miss Louise Elliott were trying to be.

-

Columbus never strained his eyes more eagerly to see land than the San
Francisco Chamber of Commerce representatives did, when someone said
that the dim outline of Fujiyama might be visible above the hazy shore
that looked as much like clouds as land.

All the men of the party were so busy with their field glasses, admiring
Yokohoma Harbor's wonderful fortifications, that they did not even hear
the women question what sort of a dress would be suitable for the coming
grand reception, and yet, at the same time withstand sight-seeing in the
dust of the streets. Even Mary Garden on her opening night did not
receive such rapt attention as did this harbor.

As we looked down over the huge side of the Empire State upon the
turmoil of humanity, baggage and freight and the uneven street beyond,
we gave thanks to the Baptist missionary, who is credited with making an
old baby carriage into the first rickshaw, for the convenience of his
sick wife. When we saw the little brown men actually run away with our
most corpulent representatives, without any apparent effort, we forgot
all about "Man's inhumanity to man" and no baby ever enjoyed its first
perambulator outing more than our party.

First, we swooped down upon the banks to change our money, but the yen
and sen counted out to us seemed as valueless as stage money. However,
we grew to respect it, after visiting Benton Dori and departing with
elaborate kimonos that the shrewd businessmen and women of the party
would have passed by as being too expensive, at home.

It was great fun after being extravagant to figure out that a yen is
only a little over half as much as one of our dollars and that one had
only spent half as much as one thought.

Our party met the ladies (some of them American college graduates) and
gentlemen of the Yokohama Chamber of Commerce at a big reception in a
theatre. The governor, through his interpreter, said that our arrival
was on the first sunny day they had had in some time, that the
chrysanthemums were just blooming, and that this was a good omen, for
the war clouds had vanished. Geisha girls danced while singing a
specially composed chant of welcome, and an elaborate luncheon was
served in an adjoining hall. A. I. Esberg and F. R. Eldridge answered
the welcome saying, "That we hoped to establish much more friendly and
permanent relationship with the people of Japan."

Most of the party had the inevitable tea in the foreign settlement,
known as the Bluff. Most of these houses are of the vintage of fifty
years ago and range in rental from $125 to $150, unfurnished, the tenant
having to install his own plumbing if he wishes such a luxury. We wanted
to know why some better arrangement was not made and were reminded of
the law that does not permit of any foreign ownership of land.

Louis Mooser, former head of the San Francisco Real Estate Board, was
much interested in the situation. It seems that about one-seventh of the
small area available for foreigners was under perpetual lease to the
Germans and we were told that when war broke out it was taken over by
the Japanese, who only allowed their own race to buy, and all rents were
immediately raised.

It was said that instead of complaining about how little land Japan was
allowed in the United States, it would be fairer to give Americans in
Japan the same privileges that she enjoys in some of our states.

Americans in Yokohoma say that the Japanese law drafted to relieve this
situation and often proudly referred to by Japanese diplomats, has never
really been passed and therefore has no value. They add that if old
Marquis Okuma had more peace-craving followers and the lawmakers were
responsible to the people instead of the Emperor, for whom they are said
to act, differences between the United States and Japan could be more
quickly and completely settled.



Chapter V



To board a train after our long sea-trip was a delightful change. After
passing through quaint villages, rice fields, and interesting garden
patches we arrived at Tokyo in time for the ambassador's reception. The
moment one talks to Charles Warren, in charge of our American Embassy in
Japan, one feels that our Japanese problems are in very conservative and
capable hands.

Between receptions, we visited many quaint and beautiful temples. At one
we were so hospitably received, served with tea and dainty rice cakes
made with a special emblem upon them for the occasion that we forgot to
grumble about being made to remove our shoes. Only a few of the party
remembered the Japanese custom of removing the outer foot-gear, when
entering their temples, and came prepared with easily removed pumps.
They had a good laugh at the row of dignified, badge-bedecked
representatives, solemnly lacing up their shoes, while sitting on the
stoop about a foot from the ground, with the blazing sun upon them.

When we talked to some of the American residents in Japan, they all got
on the old familiar subject, the high cost of living, but they seem to
agree that it cost just twice as much to live in Japan as any other
place in the world. It seems that without considering the high rent, an
amah (a sort of maid who will do only certain duties), a house boy (who
is anywhere from twelve to sixty years old), and a cook (who gets a
commission on everything you buy) must be kept, even in the simplest of
homes. Those accustomed to one servant in America usually find it
necessary to have from three to six in Japan. Of course their wages are
less than in the United States, but food is very high. Rice, for
instance, was twenty percent higher than in America. Inferior coal was
twenty-two fifty a ton, and the high ceilinged, furnace less houses
require a great deal of coal and wood in winter. Very few Americans use
the jammed street cars. Automobiles are very expensive to maintain, not
only on account of the rough streets, but the licenses are very high.
One of our party hired a rick-shaw for twenty minutes and paid a yen
(about fifty cents), so residents usually find it more economical to
keep their own rick-shaws and coolies.

Certainly the Japanese are past masters in entertaining. No wonder it is
said that some of our former diplomats were so much influenced by their
lavish entertainment's that they lost their heads. The Chamber of
Commerce of Tokyo greeted our Chamber of Commerce representatives at an
elaborate theatre party. An especially staged Japanese drama, followed
by a comedy, with a sumptuous dinner between the acts, was only a part
of the entertainment. A. I. Esberg and Byron Mauzy answered the banzis,
of the oldest merchant in Japan, Baron Okura, with three rousing cheers
for the Japanese, after the formal addresses had been made.

Everywhere we were met with politeness and courtesy. To the casual
observer the military element is not noticeable in the home life of the
common people, as they are rapt in their work, very industrious and get
their pleasure talking to their ever present babies, or tending some
little plants, even if squalor surrounds them. But the word of the ones
higher up is absolute law to them. Discipline is supreme from the time
the small boy is taught the "Goose Step," preparatory to his military
training, until he obediently marries the girl his parents have selected
for him. He does what he is told without a murmur, as does his wife who
is his absolute slave.

One understands why some call Japan the Germany of the East, which
country, some of our delegates were told by foreign residents, Japan
greatly admires. It is said that her people were more than surprised and
disappointed when the armistice was signed; as the Japanese press was so
well censored it gave no indication that Germany could be defeated.

After a day of sight-seeing, and investigating various trade conditions,
our party found the rickshaw ride back to the hotel, at dusk, most
interesting and quite exciting, if one has not become accustomed to the
rule of turning to the left instead of the right, as we do at home.
Packed street cars, automobiles, carts piled high with incredible loads
pulled by coolies, a girder being dragged by a scrawny horse led by a
seemingly tireless, whip-equipped native, all apparently were about to
collide with our rick-shaw party. We seemed to be always in the way and
always on the wrong side of the street. We remembered with a shudder,
that the Japanese believe it noble to die, and seemingly, they were
going to drag us to destruction with them. We tried to get them to go
slower but could not think of the Japanese words, so we might just as
well have tried to stop the North wind, as to have changed the orders
given by our interpreter to the coolies.



Chapter VI



We did not know that when we boarded the special train chartered by the
Tokyo Chamber of Commerce to take the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce
representatives to inspect the silk filatures, that a delightful
luncheon, or as it is called there, "Tiffin," was awaiting us under the
trees.

Although the heat was oppressive, it was surprising to see how
ceaselessly, and apparently without pain, little girls from twelve years
up, kept five cocoons unrolling at once, in boiling water, in order to
make a single thread of silk. We were told that these girls worked from
twelve to fourteen hours a day, for which they receive forty cents a day
and food, getting a bonus at the end of the year, which amounts to
approximately one months' salary. Sundays are not holidays in Japan, but
workers have two days off a month.

We saw the whole process, from the sorting of the yellow and white
cocoons to the huge bolts ready for the market, while one of our smiling
hosts significantly remarked, "The yellow and white blend very nicely
together."

We were interested in learning that the principal owner of this huge
plant has adopted his wife's family name in order to follow the custom
of not allowing a family name to die out, in case there are no sons and
none have been adopted.

As over one-third of Japan's trade is with the United States, and a
large portion of that is in silk, our clever hosts had printed on the
cover of the booklet presented to us, "Silk is the shining cord that
binds United States and Japan."

The San Francisco Chamber of Commerce representatives had been given the
year book of Japan, all sorts of pamphlets containing figures and facts
concerning various enterprises, and so a day at Nikko, away from
statistics, was most welcome.

Nikko's sacred grove of Cryptomerie trees said to be over three hundred
years old, never looked more impressive than in the first rain we had
had while in Japan. One of the party who had traveled extensively in the
Orient previously, advised us to forget our trade commercial mission
long enough to see Nikko and then we could afford to overlook all the
other temples. Certainly nature and man's art achieved a double triumph
here, and this advice must have piqued the curiosity of most of the
stolid businessmen of the party; for yellow strips of rubber and paper
umbrellas were rented, and in spite of the downpour, the great stairs
were mounted. Even comfy shoes were parted with in order to tread upon
the cold marble floors of the ancient temples. We now know, shoes have
to be checked with umbrellas at the outer doors in Japan.

We were not the only ones seeing Nikko at eight A. M. in the storm.
Besides the groups of soldiers and the crowds of pilgrims from all over
Japan, there was the ceaseless click-click of the wooden shoes of
thousands of children on the stone steps.

When we left the cozy dining-room of the hotel with its charming outlook
upon a mossy bank, where quaint shrubs were flourishing, we felt quite
proud of ourselves for braving the weather, until we asked our guide why
so many children were there that day. He said, "You see, it is such a
fine day for an excursion, not too hot or cold, no one notices the
rain."

On the way to the train we saw a queer old pawn shop, filled with
wonderful antiques. Some of the party claim that the shop was bought
out, so some of our San Francisco relatives will get an inkling from
this where Santa Claus may have gotten some of their Christmas presents.

Most of us did not mind being scolded for over-paying our sweating
rick-shaw coolies, but we all felt rather uncomfortable when we were
told that we should never have paid the first price asked in any of the
shops, and that our prize purchases could probably have been bought for
half the price by a clever bargainer.

-

In a corner of the car, that was taking the San Francisco Chamber of
Commerce party to Kyoto, the heart of Japan, sat a little Japanese girl
in true Buddha style with her little toes crossed, filling her pipe from
her purse and taking the usual three puffs (that is about all these
pipes hold). She looked about fifteen, but must have been nineteen,
because, in Japan no one is allowed to smoke until that age has been
attained, and no native would think of breaking a rule.

We arrived in time for the Jidai Festival, which is held only once a
year. We saw a procession showing all the phantastic costumes worn by
the old-time tribal warriors, and it proved so interesting that we
decided not to mourn the fact that the cherry blossom celebration was
out of season. We felt much better, too, when we were reminded that all
the pilgrims, coming to feast their eyes, never get a taste of the
luscious fruit, the Japanese cherries being uneatable.

We were told that all prices were raised by the storekeepers when any
convention arrived in town. Some of us successfully resisted purchasing
cloissone, and satsuma ware, although we saw it being made and were
served with tea and coaxed to buy - "Justa leetle souvenir." But the
kimonos were too much for Mrs. Carrie Schwabacher and Louis Mooser, who,
in spite of the fact that Mrs. Rockefeller was in Kyoto bidding on some
of the same garments (which of course raised the prices even higher)
carried away the prettiest garments in the shops.

Our party could not help noticing, how much the Japanese people, even of
the lowest class, appreciate their temples and statues.

One of the party asked if anyone knew a person in San Francisco, with
the possible exception of some scholarly teacher, who could describe
even imperfectly the statues in Golden Gate Park. Here the Japanese
journey miles to see a statue. The old scholars always preached the
potency of something half concealed to stimulate the imagination, but it
took a Japanese sage to conceive the idea of building a fine statue of a
favorite war hero and then to bury it. And now thousands come to Kyoto
to the very spot where the statue is buried, imagining its proportions,
and praying for strength and success in their encounters.

We were told that the belief that the Emperor is a God-like being is
strengthened by the fact that he is never seen and therefore his
people's glorified imagery of him is never shattered. We were told that
the Emperor is seen only by a carefully selected group twice a year,
once at the Cherry Blossom season and once at the Chrysanthemum
Festival, and if it rains on these days the reception is put off for
another year.

Why, the mystery of the Orient was even found in our menus, and it did
not take long for the Pandoras of our party to find out that "Bubble and
Squeak" was good old ham and eggs and "Angels under Cover" were oysters
wrapped in bacon.

After official business was over for the day, the party "did" Theatre
Street, where our own movie queens reigned beside some poster depicting
a Japanese soldier fighting a dragon. Byron Mauzy told us that our jazz
music is often called for and that pianos with a specially made case to
withstand the dampness, were in demand.

Our party found out why someone said, "There is as much red-tape
necessary to go through a Japanese palace as there is to get married,"
for we faced the grim-armed soldiers at the outer gates, but were not
allowed to enter until our credentials had been carefully inspected.
Then we were permitted to go into a small outer room where we wrote our
names, addresses, etc., in a large book. After a scrutiny of this and a
long wait, giving them sufficient time to telephone and see if our
passes were authentic, we were formally escorted through beautifully
carved portals, past endless, handsomely decorated, empty rooms, over
the squeaky door sill (that is supposed to warn the inmates of someone's
approach) and finally to the canopied gold-mounted throne itself.

We began to feel a little easier, when we got out in the sun of the
garden, but even there we felt formal, for in these sacred gardens no
gay flower or dashing stream is permitted. Nature, too, must be subdued,
and even the little trickle of water circling the buildings, was there
for the sole purpose of suggesting purity, we were informed.

After the reception and investigation tour of Kobe, forty of the party
boarded a train for Peking, under the direction of Hoover's
representative, F. R. Eldridge.

We had enjoyed Fujiyama by moonlight, but did not know that we were also
to glide by the Inland Sea at sunset. Korea's roads, built of course, by
the Japanese soldiers, and the guarded stations of Manchuria, were of
much interest to the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce investigators.

Every evening impromptu speeches on conditions were held in the dining
car. M. A. Gale, Henry S. Bridge, and Louis Mooser also vied with each
other telling funny stories, Carl Westerfeld contributing to the
entertainment by organizing a group of the party into "The South
Manchurian Quartet." Dave and Resse Lewellyn started to sing "Annie
Rooney" and "Mother McCree" whenever things were too quiet.

We stopped long enough at Seoul, Korea, to talk to representatives of
trade and commerce and to chat with the "Grand Old Man of Korea," before
arriving in Peking.



Chapter VII



Our stay in three-thousand year-old Peking was too short, for besides
investigating conditions, attending our Minister Shurman's reception,
visiting the country home of the former Prime Minister Hsuing Hsi-Ling,
we would have enjoyed spending more time seeing The Summer Palace, The
Jade Fountain and the Temple of Heaven to say nothing of studying
conditions.

About one-thirty, when the gay dance had ended at Hotel de Peking, which
by the way, would be a credit to London or New York, we took an hour's
rickshaw ride in the moonlight to the Forbidden City. The solemn
pom-pom-pom of the funeral dirge for the Mother of the heir to the
Chinese Throne, was indescribably impressive. About eighty men bore the
casket from the dwelling to its canopied hearse. One of the mourner's
told us that the fourteen-year-old heir to the throne, had not cared
much, when all his playthings were taken from him, or even when his
throne was taken, but that now he was inconsolable over the loss of his
mother.

After seeing this weird funeral procession of the last of the Ming
Dynasty in the gray of early dawn, seeing a Buddha with eyes of pure
gold, and also riding the Hodzu rapids, it took an aeroplane ride to
create any real excitement in our party.

Six of the Chamber of Commerce Representatives decided to see the Great
Wall of China and the Ming Tombs, regardless of the lack of time; so
Carl Westerfeld, Mrs. Bruce Foulkes, David and Reese Lewellyn, Miss Mary
Moynihan and M. Hazlett, Jr., chartered a Vickers Vimmy Biplane. The
air-riders felt much less perturbation after being informed that this
machine cost the Chinese government fifty thousand dollars, weighed over
five tons, and had comfortable wicker seats in a pretty little cabin for
nine people. They were so proud to accomplish in an hour and a half, a
trip which usually takes two days, that we will tell some of them that
they have not come down to earth yet, if they keep on telling us what we
missed by not going.

We had no sooner gotten accustomed to the Japanese money and were able
to say, "Ohio," (good-morning), and a few other Japanese words glibly,
when we had to learn "Pidgin English" and use the "Mex" dollar in China,
and next we were told to exchange our money from Peking notes to
Shanghai currency.

The approach to Shanghai, the Paris of the East, along its beautiful row
of buildings on the waterfront, and called The Bund, surprised even the
muchly thrilled Chamber of Commerce Party.

The American Consul, C. T. Cunningham, was very ill, but his wife gave
us a reception. A dinner by the Chinese Chamber of Commerce and an
examination of trade exhibits followed.

The six physicians of the party received their biggest surprise at the
Chinese Theatre when, in the middle of the performance, a large towel
that had evidently been dipped in warm water, was passed around to the
audience so that the theatre-goers might wipe off the perspiration or
beads of excitement from their faces and hands. The towel was a rich
shade of brown by the time it reached our party. Germs? Why they never
thought of such a thing and seem to feel, "Where ignorance is bliss,
'tis folly to be wise."

If Shanghai thrilled us, Hongkong fascinated us, when we ascended in a
railroad something like our Tamalpais cars to the peak. To reach the
very top, cozy wicker chairs, mounted on bamboo poles, carried by two
coolies, are necessary. The movement of the chair while descending
reminds one of a ride on a rather old, single-gaited horse.

Our party will always associate Macao, China, with "Dante's Inferno." To
see the half-clothed Chinese bending over their open fires in the opium
factory, to see children soldering the covers of the little boxes their
brothers have just finished mixing and filling, will always be an awful,
vivid picture in our memories.

The cigar factory also seemed a fine sample of what some good people
wish us to believe awaits the wicked. Babies, not able to walk, are busy
working beside their mothers stripping the tobacco leaf from the stems.

If the cigar and opium factories shocked us, the firecracker factory
appalled us. A crowd of youngsters huddled in a tiny, filthy room filled
with powder, were working with wonderful dexterity, ceaselessly putting
fuses in firecrackers. No one seemed to notice or care if a visitor
might carelessly let a light fall from a cigar or drop a match. Many of
us decided that perhaps the proverb: "If you want to make a Chinese
happy, just buy him a coffin," is not so far off, because death to many
of them looks much more attractive than life. We were told that if a
Chinese falls off his sampan, his neighbor does not try to save him.
That would be a "Bad Joss" as they say and would incur the wrath of the
River God, who pulled him in. Then, too, the rescuer would have to
support him for the rest of his days.



The Homeward Trip
Chapter VIII



The Stop at Singapore



They say that anticipation is half of enjoyment, but the Chamber of
Commerce Party never could have imagined the pleasure we were to have in
Singapore, although the expected palms waved greetings from the shore as
an indication of the tropical scenes we were to see.

We had heard it said that, "He who tries to hurry the Orient shall come
to a speedy grave," and we thought there must be some truth in it, when
at the junction of two busy streets we saw a lazy native peacefully
reposing, on his cot bed, in the middle of two lines of traffic. Nice
quiet spot for a nap, while the sun was beating down with such force
that the men of the party drew their new helmets well down over their
heads. Stanley, exploring darkest Africa, could not have heard more
precautions and sunstroke warnings, than the men of this party. But the
guide-book authors do not seem to care whether the sun strikes the women
or not. Guess they believe that the women's hair will protect them, or,
perhaps, it is reasoned, that as the ships usually touch China first,
(one of the greatest hair markets of the world), the women cheated by
nature, are supposed to have gotten a goodly supply before they reach
Singapore.

But do not let this give our friends the idea that the women were
neglected in Singapore. They say there are only three unmarried white
girls left in that city and that these are taking their time about
deciding upon which of the army of males they will select. One fine
looking chap told a group of ladies of our party that it was two months
before he learned that in order to secure dances with the popular
matrons, it was necessary to phone the week before the dance to find out
whether he was to be favored with the sixth or seventh or ninth dance.

Now before any girl who chances to read the foregoing and packs her
trunks for this tropical spot, let me warn her that it is so hot that
the powder stays on about as well as water on a duck's back, and a
lizard is liable to drop in her lap at any time. At least that is what
happened to the smallest debutante of our party, Miss Sallie Glide, at
one of the dances given in honor of the San Francisco Delegates. And
while some of the young couples of our party were strolling through the
wonderful botanical gardens admiring the Travelers Palm, whose
fan-shaped branches are said to be the compass of the desert, as their
branches always point east and West, a family of wild monkeys (with the
baby monkeys clinging to the mothers' breasts) crossed the path. And a
little further on a snake charmer giving his cobras an airing, was
encountered. If the element of danger appeals to her, then this is the
place for her, for she may expect to see one of these big snakes
unaccompanied by its master at any time if she ventures in the thicket.
And just a short trip out of the city is the tiger in his native jungle.
Phil Lyon and Carl Westerfeld went on a hunt, but H. J. Judell came
nearest to killing one. He shot between the eyes, as the guide directed,
but missed the brute.

The variety and brilliancy of the clothing of the cosmopolitan
inhabitants rivals the scarlets and greens of the botanical gardens. The
natives, perhaps, try to make up in vivid coloring what they lack in
quantity. Others are entirely unadorned and most of the children are
also naked.

Alfred Esberg, C. B. Lastrete, Dwight Grady and J. Parker-Currier were
given a dinner at the executive mansion of the English governor, Sir
Laurence Guillemard. This was the first time that American travelers
were so honored.

The Chinese Chamber of Commerce gave a beautiful reception to our party.
As we entered the banquet hall, the band played the "Star Spangled
Banner" and the moving picture machine recorded our activities. Speeches
were made and conditions discussed, while the champagne flowed freely.
The ladies were given orchids.

Someone remarked that the white people in Singapore seem bent on
checking the over-powering heat with internal irrigation. At eleven A.
M. all assemble at a special resort for the morning "eye-openers,"
between twelve and two, business stops in order to give the thirsty
inhabitants time for tiffin accompanied by a half dozen whiskeys and
sodas or "gin-rickeys"; after four all business ceases for tea, and, if
the tea cup appears it is usually accompanied by a substantial stick in
it, to rouse drooping spirits. Of course during dinner and the evening
Bacchus reigns. Now, I suppose some of you understand why there are so
many apparently contented men in Singapore, in spite of the climate.

All the lovers that were accustomed to haunt the top deck, called the
"Honey-moon Deck of the Empire State," took rides through the jungle.
The tropical moonlight reflecting the palms in the rippling water and
the trip through the Gap (a break in the hills disclosing the sea far
beyond, as one of the justly famous sunsets was in progress), are said
to have done their work, and four couples, the gossips say, are expected
to announce their engagements. One of the ship's wits said, "Again the
dashing widows have proven far more attractive than some of their
unmarried sisters." Mrs. Carrie Schwabacher, offered a linen shower to
the first couple that were married on board, but they all seemed
bashful. Louis Mooser suggested that the name of the ship be changed
from Empire State to "Vampire State."

Some of our party visited homes in Singapore and found one solution of
the "servant problem." In many cases, the mistress of the house pays a
No. 1 boy, or upper servant, as you know they call them there, a fixed
sum to purchase so many meals and to take the entire responsibility of
the buying and running of the house, while she comes and goes and
entertains as a guest at a hotel. There are no unexpected huge bills at
the end of the month; if the cook leaves, why should she worry, No. 1
boy just gets another.



Chapter IX



Java



Some of the Chamber of Commerce party were frank enough to admit that
their most vivid recollections of hearing about Java were, in connection
with Moca, together with eggs and toast and the usual accompaniments of
the breakfast table, but we were all in for a revelation. The
cultivation of the hillsides in Japan is child's play in comparison with
the miles upon miles of hills, plateaus and even mountains, all in
flourishing rice fields, coffee plantations and sugarcane.

One can now realize what the late Premier Hara of Japan meant, when he
is said to have admitted to some intimates that there was no
over-population in Japan if only fifteen percent of the vast tracts (61
percent of all Japan) were utilized (as it is in Java), enough space for
Japan's growing population could easily be found. It is said that the
Japanese Emperor and his advisers will never dispose of this land or
allow it to be used.

Our party separated over the land of Java, like the forty tribes of
Biblical history. Some went to the famous ruins of Bora Badur erected
ages ago, some to Djorka to see the native dances and to see the strange
old walled city, where the Sultan, his wives and the fifteen thousand
natives, said to be related to him, live. While the Sultan and his harem
are seated, cross-legged on the floor, with the Dutch Queen's pictures
looking sternly down upon them, the ever waiting counselors of the
Sultan squat outside the sacred precincts. These wise-looking old
counselors of the Sultan also have their retinue of servants waiting on
them - one with a pipe, another with a pillow, still another with a fan,
etc., etc. Our delegation was especially honored in being permitted to
go in the sacred place where the ancient bedroom is situated. We even
spied some harem beauties in the distance.

Those of the party desiring a complete change from the sea, went to the
picturesque resort of Garot, perched high up near a volcano. Many of the
businessmen stayed right in Batavia to study business conditions. Still
others went to the Botanical gardens of Boetenzorg and to see wonderful
scenery near Bandoeng, but all attended the ball given for us the night
we departed at Batavia.

In starting out in any vehicle in the tropics we were all taken miles
out of our way. The drivers never attempted to find out where one wished
to go, or listened to one if one tried to make them understand. They
start off with a flourish, usually in the wrong direction, before they
can be stopped. It makes no difference to them. They know they are hired
and that is all they care about. Perhaps this is one reason why Charles
Yates unfortunately missed the ship. Constant Meese found the streets
apparently deserted one night when our party wished transportation back
to the ships but by clapping his hands together, half a dozen rick-shaws
came tumbling over each other to get there first. Sometimes the clapping
of the hands is not enough to attract the native's attention, as he
rarely listens to orders; some of the party say they have found the
typical tourist's cane most effective and think they have discovered a
real reason for a cane at last.

At Batavia the well-known Captain Edward Salisbury left his
world-touring yacht "Wisdom," to join our party. He entertained us in
the evenings with weird tales of his adventures in the South Seas, where
pigs are exchanged for wives and the wives thus acquired are then put to
work to raise more pigs to get new wives.



Saigon



Good students of geography will doubtless recall that the approach to
Saigon is through the crookedest river in the world. As I usually "just
passed" in this subject, cannot speak with authority, but I will
guarantee that it has many more curves than our Tamalpais railroad,
advertised all over as being "The crookedest railway on the globe."

So the members of the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce tour were busy
speculating on just how many turns and twists the Empire State had made
before she finally docked at Saigon, when some members of the Saigon
Reception committee told us that we were the largest American steamship
that ever had landed in port.

Two large busses were placed at the disposal of our delegation. The
Cercle Sportivo gave a dance at their club in our honor and two tea
dansants were held at the Continental Hotel. Some of the ladies got
quite accustomed to the bags of mosquito netting that one slips one's
feet in, to evade the pests while dining, but most of us forget to step
out, and, for a moment, thought we were in a sack race.

The elephant at the beautiful botanical gardens, that would go and buy
himself food when given the proper amount of money was interesting, but
he was not the real attraction at Saigon. Our party had been entertained
by the Geisha girls, sung almost to distraction (you know it is impolite
for the sing-song girls of China to stop singing until requested to
stop). We had watched the dancing of the Javanese and Philippine
Ballerinas, but, we had to come here to see the real French girls. We
now understand why many of our soldiers came home with French wives -
"vamp" is the only word we could think of in describing every one of
them. Never before had we seen so many picture hats.

What fun we all had airing our moth-eaten French. (Here I am not
referring to the few of our party that speak French fluently.) And it
was several days before some of us stopped calling the Chinese
cabin-boys "Garcon."

Perhaps, to show that the San Francisco committee appreciated the
distinction of being on board a ship fifteen feet longer than any other
American steamer to make that port, we broke off part of the propeller
as a souvenir in departing.



Chapter X



Manila



Never were more elaborate preparations made to receive our big
delegation. Some said it was a wise precaution to have the day the
Philippine Chamber of Commerce were to entertain us before the
publishing of the "Wood-Forbes Report;" but after the report had been
made public we found the laughter and shouts of "Viva" (long life) from
the children and the heartfelt greetings of their elders, were
cordiality and good-fellowship personified.

We were told that there were three times the number of people in Java as
in the Philippines, but that the Philippines could easily support a
population of 50,000,000. We were so glad to hear this, as there are
more babies there than any other place in the Orient, with the exception
of Japan, but the Philippine babies seem to be free from the awful sores
we noted on many of the Japanese children. However, it seems that infant
mortality is great in the Philippines, on account of the improper diet
of the mothers and many of the babies die, we were told, as their
mother's milk does not agree with them. One of the first orders of
Governor-General Leonard Wood was to call a meeting to check the infant
mortality.

In an interview, just after the "Wood-Forbes Report" had been published,
Governor Leonard Wood said, "I look for great things from the women of
the Philippines; the quicker they form a part of the Government, the
better for the Islands." He seems to feel that they are the most
important factor in the islands and considers them more dependable than
the men. He told with great satisfaction how he had arranged for Miss
Hartlee Emprey (the research worker from the Rockefeller Hospital at
Peking, who succeeded in perfecting a four-cent-a-day diet for the
famine-stricken in China) to eliminate the malnutrition in the food for
the young Philippine mothers and to discover a better diet for the
lepers. Governor Wood added, "I want doctors, lots of them, modern
equipment' and nurses to make more sanitary conditions. I also wish the
diseases destructive to cattle studied." There are only 930 nurses in
the islands and funds and equipment are needed badly. More doctors are
needed in curing the lepers. In speaking of the present condition of the
islands, he said, "The Philippines are not ready to cut loose from the
United States."

Everything was done in Manila to make us feel at home, from the moment
the Reception Committee landed on board and Mayor Fernandez handed over
the keys of the city. After being entertained by the Chinese,
Philippine, Spanish and American Chambers of Commerce and being told
that there were countless dialects and language mixtures, we were not
surprised that a telephone operator must speak at least nine languages.

The Montalban Falls trip, as guests of the Philippine Chamber of
Commerce, made us recall the days of 1915, for there the same leader of
the Philippine Orchestra at the Exposition, greeted us. We passed
through a flower-decorated arch and then beneath a specially constructed
bower under which were the charmingly set tables for our "tiffin."

The second day in Manila we were taken to the Pampanga Sugar Refinery.
Here the men of the party had lengthy talks with the officials, while
the women of the party were being entertained at a luncheon. The ladies
were told that the American factory girl who spends the best part of her
week's wages for silk stockings has her equal in the Philippines. It
seems that the natives (yes, the men too) are so fond of showy clothing
that they will go buy some fancy trifle, when they are in need of food.
Very often the employer has to feed them so as to be sure they will have
strength enough to do their work properly. It seems that many Filipinos
regard the United States as a child regards a benevolent uncle - they
want their independence knowing that the United States will get them out
of any difficulty and protect them from all harm, at the same time,
letting them have their own way.

They are so quick to learn it is no wonder that many of our soldiers
turned into teachers, just as the soldiers in Russia today are repeating
history in this respect.

Members of the local Chamber of Commerce told us that on account of the
soil and climate, the sugar matured in seven months instead of eighteen
months necessary in the Hawaiian Islands, and that in one day, the
refinery (we inspected) could turn out 20,000 tons of sugar, enough to
supply San Francisco for one year (the help working on two ten-hour
shifts and receiving one and a half pesos a day a piece).

Although the pineapples have been imported from the Hawaiian Islands to
the Philippines, they are not subject to the blight that affects them
there; they have a wonderfully sweet flavor. An increase of a million
dollars in the industry has recently been reported, our party was told.

The third day we were taken to Pagsanjan Rapids, where the party left in
small canoes through a scenic gorge. Mrs. Francis Krull, George Vranizan
and Mrs. Vranizan, Mrs. Bruce Foulkes, S. Swartz and Mrs. Swartz, Harry
Dana, Frank Howlett, A. I. Esberg and his wife were all thrown out of
the boats and into the swift current, but all were rescued in time. Dr.
F. E. Orella introduced the first woman lawyer in Manila, and she
addressed us in the observation car, on the way back from the Falls.

We passed miles of beautiful groves and were told on the way back to
Manila, that each tree averaged about fifty cocoanuts a year, but that
one tree has been known to yield three hundred nuts, and that a new
breakfast food, made from them, is about to revolutionize the morning
meal. Also we heard that no longer will it be necessary to go to the
tropics to enjoy the mango, for a new process has at last been
discovered that will permit of their being canned. We were told that the
natives carry long knives and often use them and that someone said,
"Although they may be dressed in the latest style from toes to head,
they are still savages from the waist up." This seems difficult to
believe, in spite of the numerous scars one sees, as one could not but
feel friendly toward the Filipinos. Their courtesy is typified in their
road signs that we passed, "Slow please," and after the curve was
rounded, "Thank you."

We all noticed how clean and neat their appearance was. You know it is
said that the Japanese keep their bodies clean, but not their clothes,
while the Koreans keep their clothes clean (perhaps because they are
white and the dirt is so evident), and not their bodies, that the
Chinese keep neither their clothes nor their bodies clean, but the
Filipinos keep both, their bodies and their clothes, immaculate.

One of our party asked one of our hosts. "Why he never said, 'right' and
'left', in directing the chauffeur." The answer was that in the old days
the footman's seat was on the left horse, hence 'cella' for left, while
the driver held his reins in his right hand, therefore 'mono' (or hand)
means right to the Filipinos.

Reese Lewellyn said, as did most of the Americans in the Islands, "That
the United States should never give up the Philippine Islands, as they
are a necessary base for America's importing and exporting." He said,
"Although, before I made this trip, I was not in favor of the United
States holding outside territory, I now realize that we must keep the
Philippines as an outlet for our supplies. In a diplomatic way the
Filipinos will have to be made to realize that, in spite of the fact
that they have been told they would be independent of United States,
conditions warrant our keeping them as a part of the United States."

Our first impression of the native women was that they were all going to
some ball or had put on their low-necked, transparent evening dresses by
mistake. But, before any reader gets the impression from this that they
are immodest, let me hasten to add that we found that they were
exceptionally sweet and charming and are the souls of propriety. Why,
even the man engaged to a girl cannot so much as walk with her on the
streets in the broad daylight, and to take her arm - Oh, horrors! If a
girl should permit two different beaus to call upon her, even if well
chaperoned, it would eliminate her matrimonial prospects, as she would
then be branded as a hopeless flirt, so we were told.

But, needless to say, the few American girls in Manila do not follow
these rules, for we heard that an engagement for tea with one masculine
admirer and to watch the oily seola nuts burn at dinner with another
friend, and to attend an evening dance with a third, is not considered
unusual. After the Philippine women get the suffrage, Governor Leonard
Wood seems to want them to have, some of the ladies of our party wonder
if things will not be a little different for the native women?

We were escorted through cigar factories, hemp works, and to Bilibid
Prison, where from a central reviewing stand, the avenue of cells with
the drilling space between, radiate like a great pinwheel. A very
elaborate drill was given by the prisoners, who were dressed according
to their conduct - white for the best behavior, blue, fairly good,
stripes for bad behavior.

Besides the tea dance at the beautiful Spanish Club, the Governor's
Reception at the Palace (as it is called here), and the numerous dances,
there was a luncheon given to our party at the delightful Manila Hotel
by the Rotary Club.

At this function the cablegram to us from Mayor Rolph was read and
applauded, as were the messages from former Manager Wood of the St.
Francis, and Manager Manwaring of the Palace. After speeches by A. I.
Esberg, Byron Mauzy, C. B. Lastreto, Ex-Senator James Phelan, who had
just arrived in Manila, made a very interesting and humorous address.

He referred to the time when the war over the Philippines was going on,
at which time he was Mayor of San Francisco. He said, "Then we hardly
knew where the Philippines were." He dwelt upon the marvelous resources
of the Islands and warned us not to be like the old miner, who before
the "Days of '49" said that he saw a sign advertising the village that
is now San Francisco, for sale for five dollars. When asked, "Why he
didn't buy it," he said, "He didn't' have the five dollars, and anyway
he didn't want it then."

Governor Wood finished the speeches with a stirring address. "Capital is
safe in the Philippines. Take an interest in them," he said. "They are
big, there are wonderful resources and there is big work to do here. The
American Flag is still at the top of the pole. The progress of the
Philippine people in the last twenty-three years cannot be paralleled,
it could not have been accomplished without their cooperation and
without our aid." He referred to the so-called laws of discouragement
that are said to impede business. "I want to get hold of them and
correct them, but they cannot be changed in a hurry. The United States
stands for the development of trade and the open-door in the Pacific.
One of the best piers in the world will be built; the harbor rivals
Seattle, and Manila will be a great port and a distributor of the
products of the Far East. There is room for expansion, labor is cheap.
Germany, the beaten nation, has learned to live without import or export
and understands cheap living. Competition will be keen. They are out to
gobble up South American trade. We must get busy. The war talk is
tommy-rot. Of course there will be wars in the future, but only
irresponsible people think of war at present."

Manuel Queson, in a long interview, after the "Wood-Forbes" report was
out, said, "I do not agree with the report as the Islands are ready for
independence."

Sergio Osmena, referred to as a great power and known as the "Sphinx of
the Philippines," was reticent at first, but later he talked freely
about the marvelous resources of the Islands and stated that he, too,
believed the Islands ready for independence.



Chapter XI



Hongkong



Returning from Manila we stopped once more at "The City of Mist,"
Hongkong, and were entertained all over again. While some of the Chamber
of Commerce party were motoring to a dance given in honor of the San
Francisco delegates, a coolie was hit and nearly run over. Our host told
the coolie to get out of the way, while assuring us that it would not
have caused much trouble had he been severely injured. He said, "Labor
is so cheap here, some coolies try to get hit to get something out of
you, and if I had really run over him, I would have given him fifty
cents, or so. You know there is a law that if a Chinese accepts any
amount of money after being injured, he has no redress." He went on to
tell a story about using Chinese women to retrieve instead of dogs in
snipe shooting. If these coolie women happen to stand up and get a stray
shot, a few cents is given them, and it is called "square." One of the
husbands of these women retrievers needed money, so his wife stood up in
order to get a lot of shots. She got seven shots and went away with her
husband rejoicing upon receipt of five dollars.

It was like meeting someone from home when Mrs. H. W. Thomas and Mrs.
Cudahy joined our party again.

Many of our party looked for the American flag at our consulate, and H.
L. Judell said he could not buy one in all of British Hongkong.

The feeling against the Germans in Hongkong, many of our party decided,
must be very strong, as we saw cartoons showing a fierce-looking person
killing everyone, and the same person in another pose, dressed as a
traveling salesman, together with the warning, "Remember they are one
and the same." We also noted sentiment against the Japanese in China,
for instance, a Chinese gentleman told a group of our party that he and
many of his countrymen taught their children that someday they would
fight the Japanese. We were told that if a Chinese child is given a
piece of candy and then told that the candy was made in Japan, the child
refuses to eat it. This just typifies the attitude we found in China
towards the Japanese. But as Dr. Kasper Pischel said at one of our
evening meetings, "The spirit of China is not dead but is very much
alive in Canton. Where the guidebooks discussed the narrow streets, to
small even for rickshaws, I found twenty miles of broad streets. Where I
anticipated hovels, a twelve-story skyscraper was seen, and it is my
belief that unscrupulous outsiders are trying to keep the old political
power in Peking."



Canton



Leaving Hongkong, we passed the typhoon shelter on the bay with its
hundreds of floating homes. Next we noted the numerous curved graves
(evil spirits, we were told, would not attack curved lines) and that all
the graves faced the rice fields and the water for good luck. It seems
that once a year, the relatives come with a big feast, and after waiting
two hours for the spirits to eat, the mourners "fall to" and devour it
themselves. The sacred mountain that resembles an amah and child, where
the expectant Chinese mothers come to pray for male babies, was seen in
the distance, as was the inlet of the bay, which, according to legend,
was the original location of the Garden of Eden. Some members of the
party considered this region much more beautiful than the Inland Sea of
Japan.

Many of the party could not understand what the tall buildings in all
the small villages could be. The fluent-talking Chinese officials, sent
to escort our party, informed us that they were the pawnshops, and the
wealth of the villages is determined by the number of their pawnshops,
it being quite an honorable business in China, and all the inhabitants
put their winter clothes in pawn. If, when they redeem this clothing, an
epidemic of disease occurs, no one seems to think it might be because
the clothes of all are put together unfumigated.

We were discussing the odd names on the official program when we were
told that besides meeting a Mr. Looking For, a Mr. Jack Rabbitt was to
follow the first speaker at the coming luncheon. We heard all about Ho
Fook, with his fourteen wives and fifty-six children, and how Wang Chong
Hin had just made a million in Java, raising sugar cane; that fat worms
were considered a great treat, as were portions of rats, cats and dogs,
all of these questionable delicacies being on display in the wayside
markets.

The Canton reception was by far the most spectacular the Chamber of
Commerce party received in the Orient. After the gaily attired band
(playing American airs) greeted us, we passed through a brilliantly
decorated arch and drove past the business section of Canton to the
Yamen of His Excellency, Chan Chuing Ming, the Governor of Kwangtung.
Here a reception committee representing the Government of the Republic
of China, at Canton, the Provincial Government of Kwangtung, the Canton
Municipality, the General Chamber of Commerce at Canton and the American
Association of South China gave us a never-to-be-forgotten welcome.

An elaborate Chinese tiffin (yes, we ate a la chop sticks) was served.
Governor Chan Chuing Ming, in his opening address, spoke of South
China's plan for trade expansion and the development of this vast
section. He referred to America's policy of fair play and the "Open
Door" in the Orient and said that South China was rapidly becoming a
progressive democracy and that the delegation showed its interest in
South China by its presence there.

Commissioner Francis Krull, in answering this speech, spoke of the
"Heavenly Welcome." This reminded us that besides the bands, military
escort, soldiers at salute throughout the streets, auto street sprinkler
to keep down the dust in front of the procession, an aeroplane had
soared over our heads dropping messages of greeting. Someone suggested
that a book on Chinese etiquette should have been studied by all
representatives, for, when Mayor Sun, the son of Dr. Sun Yat Sen, head
of South China, gave one of the ladies of our party a choice morsel,
fished out of the central platter with the spoon with which he as
eating, she did not know that his is considered a special mark of favor
and accepted it very reluctantly, thinking her host most forgetful.

After eating our fill of bird's nest soup, sharks' fins and bamboo
cells, we were taken in motors to see the five-storied Pagoda, the City
of the Dead, and the monument to the Chinese revolutionary heroes
(donated by the Chinese all over the world). When we saw one huge slab
donated by some Chinese in San Francisco, we did feel toward the
intelligent, kindly people just as our cultured host and hostess put it,
"Right at home with them."

The General Chamber of Commerce gave a dinner at the Asia Hotel to the
businessmen of the party, while the Chinese ladies gave a twelve-course
dinner on the top floor of one of their new skyscrapers. This is said to
be the first time in Chinese history that the sheltered and seldom seen
Chinese ladies of rank ever gave a dinner to any, traveling delegation.
Their correctly spoken English, charming graciousness, and, in a few
cases, rare beauty, would make any collection of American women look, to
their laurels.

Another typically Chinese dinner was given for us where James H. Henry,
an American living in Canton, made the best speech we had heard in the
Orient. He laid stress upon the fact that we need China more than she
needs the United States. As other nations are studying her people and
her resources we are letting things drift. He said, "United States is
pursuing the same stupid psychology that originally caused England to
lose her trade in China to the painstaking, persistent Germans. There
are few Americans that can name readily six Chinese cities. China favors
America because she stands for Liberty, Fraternity, Equality and Fair
Play, but that her favoring the United States is more negative than
positive as the United States is doing nothing to cultivate her trade
and her favor is more on account of what Americans stand for but have
not done as yet. Americans had better get busy and do something positive
to develop her trade as do the other nations. The French are importing
Chinese to study in France and in order to get to know the French and
like them. The Germans come and live among the Chinese to learn their
ways and to secure their friendship. China is going forward."



Chapter XII



Perhaps some would say several of our party should have heeded the
warnings of the blind astrologers, so plentiful in China, or stopped
joking when we received number thirteen for dinner cards, hat checks and
auto drivers' checks, but, strange as it may seem, on the very day that
we were joking about the prevalence of "number 13" we had a very narrow
escape. At any rate the most beloved member of the party, Mrs. Carrie
Schwabacker (affectionately known as "Mother McCree"), nearly lost her
life. Harry Dana, Cleve T. Shaffer and the writer, were with her in the
small motor boat, returning from an entertainment given at a Chinese
banker's home on the Pearl River (we were sure they referred to a black
pearl when they named it, as the water looked like ink) and the craft
became stuck in the mud and the propeller was impeded. The big river
steamer, which we were due to catch, waited twenty minutes for us and
when we finally got alongside the steamer, the Chinese boatman tied us
to it as it was starting, in spite of our protests. Naturally, the
little boat was dragged underneath the large rapidly moving steamer. One
of the boatmen was thrown overboard. By desperate efforts we were saved
from capsizing and the little boat broke loose from the steamer bearing
her down, so we did not catch up with the party until a day later.

If Neptune Day was a huge success, then "Sanguinetti's Night" was a
triumph. The old "Frisco Restaurant" reappeared on board ship, cartoons
were on the walls (cleverly drawn by Miss Marion Doolan), the floor was
sawdust covered. Red ties, stockings and skirts were in demand. Mrs.
Evan's brilliant scarf made one costume for the borrower, everyone
looked unbelievably tough in the costumes appropriate for this Italian
affair. Candles gave a dim light. There were samples of "Apache
Dancing." Spaghetti and ravioli were enjoyed along with the red wine
that flowed freely, while the orchestra played only Italian and "Jazz"
pieces. Will anyone ever forget Mrs. Schwartz's wonderful rendition of
the "Lost Italian girl?" Miss Schlessinger won the prize for being the
best "Vamp."

In the smoking room and on deck, Mah Gongg, for awhile, vied with
bridge, but the old standby (enlivened with prizes) proved more popular
on the homeward trip. If noise was any indication, then the last few
days, when the deck sport prizes were being played for, were hugely
enjoyed by all. Capt. E. Salisbury, C. J. Okell, S. N. Haslett, Jr. and
H. S. Dana were among the star players. Dr. Woolsey and J. F. Geise were
also "fans."

Christmas will always be another happy memory. The carols, the marching
around the ship of the choristers Christmas Eve, the services and the
story of Christmas by Mrs. Barton gave a contrast of seriousness that
made us appreciate the frivolities all the more. How cheery the dining
room was with its garlands of red berries and huge Christmas tree,
swaying with the motion of the ship, and what fun when jovial and
popular Captain Nelson, as Santa Claus gave a present to all. How
surprised and happy the Captain, the officers and Mr. Grady were when
Warren Shannon presented them with the beautiful gifts purchased by our
party. Everyone was coaxed to display their "parlor tricks." Warren
Shannon gave his masterpiece "Tiger Fat," Reese Lewellyn sang, followed
by Mrs. Schwabacker's charming rendition of "What Irishmen Mean by
McCree," Dr. Thomas Hill recited cleverly, Mrs. Brandeis read the
farewell poem she had written, Mrs. Brown sang beautifully. Will we ever
see a Korean costume without thinking of Louis Mooser and the excellent
resolutions of thanks he drew and how he regretted the loss of his first
diary? If it was half as clever as the second diary we can well
understand his feelings. The laughter, singing and dancing kept up until
way past midnight. No wonder everyone seemed in the best of health and
spirits after this wonderful tour.



Last Few Days of Trip



The women of the party, led by Mrs. Frank Panter, gave a vote of thanks
for being permitted to be a part of such an important tour penetrating
an area where 900,000,000 souls are living, and wrote a resolution to
the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce to that effect. It was up to the
women to send "the last word" from the party, as Ou Wee of Canton, said,
"The women of America are the real dictators,' 'and since the days of
Eve, every man knows that women must have the "last word." But after
seeing the treatment of the Oriental women, all the party of the
feminine gender, were doubly glad to be Americans and to be going home.

We all understand the meaning of the phrase, "The best part of going
away is the coming back," and when we contemplated that the famous
"Peace Ship" could only stand it for three days, we felt quite pleased
with our three months' record of friendly relationship, not only with
our associates on board ship, but also with all those of the Orient, on
this, the First Commercial Relationship Tour that any Chamber of
Commerce has ever attempted and successfully accomplished.



Mrs. R. S. Atkins          Mr. D. K. Grady
Mrs. George Alexander      Mrs. D. K. Grady
Mr. F. S. Ballinger        Miss Elizabeth M. Graham
Mrs. F. S. Ballinger       Mr. S. M. Haslett. Jr.
Mrs. Florence Barnard      Mr. H. Hastings
Mrs. Louise Barton         Dr. T. L. Hill
Miss Lucille Bell          Mr. C. W. Hinchcliffe
Mrs. M. S. Bercovich       Mr. Frank Howlett
Mr. Fred W. Boole          Mrs. Frank Howlett
Mrs. Fred W. Boole         Miss Elizabeth Howlett
Mrs. Arthur Brandeis       Mr. Frank Howlett, Jr.
Mr. Henry S. Bridge        Miss Flora Hunter
Mrs. Henry S. Bridge       Miss Alena Hunter
Miss Marjorie Bridge       Mr. Louis James
Miss Barbara Bridge        Mrs. Louis James
Mr. Louis C. Brown         Mr. Chas. H. James
Mrs. Louis C. Brown        Mrs. Chas. H. James
Mr. Roy J. Chapman         Miss Rosalie T. James
Miss Jessie Craig          Dr. M. J. Judell
Mr. J. Parker Currier      Mr. H. L. Judell
Mrs. J. Parker Currier     Sidney P. Kahn
Mrs. A. M. Cudahy          Miss R. Kinslow
Mr. H. S. Dana             Mr. Francis KruIl
Mrs. S. C. Denson          Mrs. Francis Krull
Mrs. E. Dinkelspiel        Mr. C. B. Lastreto
Miss Marian Doolan         Mrs. C. B. Lastreto
Mrs. Jas. P. Dunne         Mrs. R. R. Livingston
Miss Louise Elliott        Mr. D. L. Llewllyn
Mr. A. I. Esberg           Mr. Reese Llewllyn
Mrs. A. I. Esberg          Mr. A. B. Luther
Miss Belle Espeset         Mrs. A. B. Luther
Dr. C. W. Evans            Mrs. Anna B. Luther
Mrs. C. W. Evans           Mr. P. L Lykins
Mrs. Bruce Foulkes         Mrs. P. L. Lykens
Mr. M. A. Gale             Mr. P. J. Lyon
Mrs. M. A. Gale            Mr. C. H. Mattlage
Dr. Amelia Gates           Mrs. C. H. Mattlage
Mrs. Angeline Gee          Mr. Byron Mauzy
Mrs. J. F. Geise           Mr. B. M. McCrory
Mr. Louis Glass            Mr. Constant Meese
Miss Sally Glide           Miss Charlotte Moore

Mr. Louis H. Mooser        Mrs. S. L. Schwartz
Dr. A. W. Morton           Miss G. A. Shaffer
Mr. A. W. Morton, Jr.      Mr. Cleve Shaffer
Miss Mary Moynihan         Mr. Warren Shannon
Mr. Wm. Muir               Mrs. Warren Shannon
Mr. A. T. Neff             Miss Alma Simon
Mrs. A. T. Neff            Mr. F. H. Speich
Miss Lucretia Neff         Mrs. F. H. Speich
Mr. C. J. Okell            Mr. Wm. Symon
Mrs. C. J. Okell           Mrs. Wm. Symon
Dr. F. E. Orella           Miss May Slessinger
Mrs. F. E. Orella          Mr. C. A. Thayer
Mr. Frank Panter           Mrs. C. A. Thayer
Mrs. Frank Panter          Mrs. H. W. Thomas
Dr. Kaspar Pischel         Mr. Geo. Vranizan
Mrs. Kaspar Pischel        Mrs. Geo. Vranizen
Mr. Geo. Russell Reed      Mr. Edward C. Wagner
Mrs. Geo. Russell Reed     Mrs. Edward C. Wagner
Miss Frances Reed          Mrs. M. S. Washburn
Miss Margaret Rice         Mr. Carl Westerfeld
Captain R. Robinson        Mrs. J. D. Wheeler
Mrs. L. Ross               Mr. Fred J. Wood
Mr. Louis Rothenberg       Mrs. Fred J. Wood
Mrs. Louis Rothenberg      Dr. C. H. Woolsey
Mrs. Carrie Schwabacher    Mr. Chas. Yates
Capt. E. Salisbury         Mrs. Violet Yates
Mr. S. L. Schwartz