Transcribed from the 1847 Whittaker and Co. edition by David Price.

                    [Picture: Conway Bridge & Castle]





                                EXCURSIONS
                                    IN
                               NORTH WALES:


                                A COMPLETE
                           GUIDE TO THE TOURIST
                                 THROUGH
                          THAT ROMANTIC COUNTRY;

                         CONTAINING DESCRIPTIONS
                                  OF ITS
               PICTURESQUE BEAUTIES, HISTORICAL ANTIQUITIES
                           AND MODERN WONDERS.

                                * * * * *

                                * * * * *

                         EDITED BY JOHN HICKLIN,
                         OF THE CHESTER COURANT.

                                * * * * *

                                 LONDON:
               WHITTAKER AND CO.; HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO.;
                   LONGMAN AND CO.; AND SIMPKIN AND CO.
                          R. GROOMBRIDGE & SONS.
                        W. CURRY AND CO., DUBLIN.
           GEORGE PRICHARD (LATE SEACOME & PRICHARD), CHESTER.

                                * * * * *

                                  1847.




INTRODUCTION.


The ancient City of Chester is unquestionably the most attractive and
convenient starting-place, from which should commence the journey of the
tourist, who is desirous of exploring the beautiful and romantic country
of North Wales, with its lovely valleys, its majestic mountains, its
placid lakes, its rushing torrents, its rural retreats, and its
picturesque castles.  Before leaving Chester, however, it will amply
repay the intelligent traveller to devote some time to the examination of
the many objects of interest, with which the “old city” abounds.  A
ramble round the Walls, embracing a circuit of about two miles, will not
only disclose to the stranger a succession of views, illustrative of the
quaint architecture and the singular formation of the city, but will
reveal a series of landscapes of the most varied and charming
description; while the ancient fortifications themselves, with their four
gates and rugged towers, serve to exemplify the features of that troubled
age, when they were erected for the protection of our ancestors against
hostile invasions.  Another striking peculiarity of Chester is the
construction of the covered promenades, or Rows, in which the principal
mercantile establishments are situated: unique and very curious are these
old arcades, which are as interesting to the antiquarian, as they are
convenient for a quiet lounge to ladies and others engaged in “shopping.”
The singular old houses, too, with their elaborately carved gables, of
which Watergate-street, Bridge-street, and Northgate-street, furnish some
remarkable specimens, will naturally attract attention.  Among public
edifices, the venerable Cathedral, though not possessing much claim to
external elegance, is replete with interest, from the style of its
architecture, and the many historical associations which a visit within
its sacred precincts awakens.  The cloisters and the chapter-house are
interesting memorials of olden time; while the beautiful and effective
restoration of the choir, which has lately been completed under the
skilful superintendence of Mr. Hussey, of Birmingham, commands the
admiration of all who take pleasure in ecclesiological improvements.  The
fittings of the interior have been entirely renovated; the Bishop’s
throne, a splendid and characteristic erection, has been restored; a new
stone pulpit (the gift of Sir E. S. Walker, of Chester) has been
introduced, to harmonise with the style of the building; an altar screen,
to divide the Lady Chapel from the choir, has been presented by the Rev.
P. W. Hamilton, of Hoole; the eastern windows have been filled with
stained glass, of admirable design and execution, by Mr. Wailes, of
Newcastle; and a powerful organ, which cost £1000, has been built by
Messrs. Gray and Davison, of London.  The expenses of the restoration
were defrayed by public subscription; and too much praise cannot be given
to the Dean (Dr. F. Anson) for the zeal and liberality with which he has
promoted these gratifying improvements, as well as for the efficient and
orderly manner in which the choral services of the Cathedral are
conducted.  The fine old Church of St. John the Baptist, which in the
tenth century was the Cathedral of the diocese, with the adjacent ruins
of the Priory, should not be left unvisited; and St. Mary’s Church also
presents, in its roof and monuments, some objects of interest worth
examining.  Of the ancient Castle, very little, except Julius Cæsar’s
tower, remains; but a magnificent modern structure, for military and
county purposes, has been erected on the site of the old edifice, after
designs by the late Mr. Harrison, of Chester.  The shire-hall is an
elegant fabric of light-coloured stone, the principal entrance to which
is through a portico of twelve columns in double rows, 22 feet high, and
3 feet 1½ inch in diameter, each formed of a single stone.  The
court-room is a spacious semi-circular hall, lighted from above.  The
county prison is behind, on a lower level, whence prisoners are brought
into the dock by a flight of steps.  The extremities of the county-hall
are flanked by two uniform elegant buildings, facing each other,
appropriated as barracks for the officers and soldiers of the garrison.
In the higher ward is an armoury, where from thirty to forty thousand
stand of arms, and other munitions of war, are constantly kept, in the
same beautifully arranged manner as at the Tower of London.  The spacious
open area in front of the Castle is enclosed by a semi-circular wall,
surmounted with iron railings; in the centre is the grand entrance, of
Doric architecture, greatly admired for its chaste construction and
elegant execution.  The front view is classical and imposing.

A noble Bridge crosses the Dee at the south-east angle of the Roodee, the
picturesque Race-course of Chester; it is approached by a new road from
the centre of Bridge-street, which passes by the castle esplanade,
proceeds across the city walls, and then by an immense embankment thrown
over a deep valley.  The bridge consists of one main stone arch, with a
small dry arch or towing path on each side, by which the land
communication is preserved on both sides of the river.  The
distinguishing feature of this edifice is the unparalleled width of the
chord or span of the main arch, which is of greater extent than that of
any other arch of masonry known to have been constructed.  Of its
dimensions the following is an accurate delineation:—The span of the arch
is _two hundred feet_; {0} the height of the arch from the springing
line, 40 feet; the dimensions of the main abutments, 48 feet wide by 40,
with a dry arch as a towing path at each side, 20 feet wide, flanked with
immense wing walls, to support the embankment.  The whole length of the
road-way, 340 feet.  Width of the bridge from outside the parapet walls,
35 feet 6 inches, divided thus: carriage-road, 24 feet; the two
causeways, 9 feet; thickness of the parapet walls, 2 feet 6 inches.
Altitude from the top of the parapet wall to the river at low water mark,
66 feet 6 inches.  The architectural plan of this bridge was furnished by
the late Mr. Thomas Harrison; Mr. James Trubshaw, of Newcastle,
Staffordshire, was the builder; Mr. Jesse Hartley, of Liverpool, the
surveyor.  The bridge was formally opened in October, 1832, by her Royal
Highness the Princess (now Queen) Victoria, on occasion of her visit and
that of her royal parent, the Duchess of Kent, to Eaton Hall.  As a
compliment to her noble host, the bridge was named Grosvenor Bridge by
the young Princess.

Our limited space prevents us from entering into particular descriptions
of other buildings and antiquities, which might well claim our attention;
as the remarkable Crypt and Roman Bath in Bridge-street, the Museum at
the Water Tower, the Blue Goat Hospital, the Training College, the Linen
Hall, the Episcopal Palace, the Exchange, &c.; but we must not omit to
remind the stranger, that when at Chester, he is only three miles distant
from that magnificent modern mansion, Eaton Hall, the seat of the Marquis
of Westminster.  The approach to the beautiful and extensive park in
which this princely abode is situated, is by an elegant Lodge on the
Grosvenor Road, about a quarter of a mile from Chester Castle; or the
excursion may be made by a boat on the lucid bosom of the river Dee,
which runs through verdant meads and lovely scenery close by the
pleasure-grounds of the Hall.  Visitors must be careful to provide
themselves with tickets, which may be obtained of the publisher of this
little work in Bridge-street Row, or they will not be admitted to view
the interior of the mansion.  The elaborate adornments, the gorgeous
fittings, and the truly magnificent architecture of Eaton Hall, with its
superb furniture, its beautiful pictures, and exquisite sculpture, never
fail to excite the most lively admiration; and to pass it without a call,
would be held by the residents of this neighbourhood to be a sort of
topographical heresy, of which tourists should not be guilty.

Having satisfied their taste and curiosity by exploring the attractions
and characteristics of Chester and the vicinity, we will suppose that our
travellers are now ready to proceed into Wales; and for the purpose of
directing and enlivening their journey, we present them, in this little
Manual, with a faithful Guide and an amusing Companion by the way.  The
admirer of Nature, in her wildest or her loveliest guise; the man of
antiquarian research, the student of history, the valetudinarian in quest
of health, or the ardent votary of “the rod and line,” anxiously seeking
for favourable spots where the angler may best indulge his piscatorial
fancies; may find in the following pages some information adapted to his
taste and pursuits.

Among the other advantages which Chester possesses as a starting-place
for visiting the Principality, may be mentioned its position as a grand
central terminus, where the London and North Western, the Chester and
Holyhead, the Shrewsbury and Chester, the Chester and Birkenhead, and the
Lancashire and Cheshire Junction Railways, meet.  A splendid station,
commensurate with the requirements of the traffic from this combination
of railway interests, will forthwith be built at Chester, at an estimated
cost of £80,000.  The Shrewsbury and Chester line being now open as far
as Ruabon, pleasant excursions can easily be made to the vale of
Gresford, Wrexham, Wynnstay Park, and Llangollen: and as in August of
this year (1847) the Chester and Holyhead Railway will be opened as for
as Conway, visits to that delightful locality, including the intermediate
stations for Flint, Mostyn, St. Asaph, Rhyl, and Abergele, may then be
enjoyed in a day.  Facilities like these will no doubt tend greatly to
increase the number of tourists to North Wales; where the principal
hotels are admirably conducted, and carriages, cars, and horses, with
civil drivers well acquainted with the country, may be engaged on
satisfactory terms.

It may not be without its use to indicate a few excursions, which would
include some of the most interesting and romantic parts of the
Principality.  From Chester, a charming trip may be taken to Hawarden,
Holywell, St. Asaph, Abergele, Conway, Aber, Bangor, Menai Bridge,
Beaumaris; returning by Penrhyn Castle, the Nant Ffrancon Slate Quarries,
Capel Curig, Rhaiadr-y-Wennol, Bettws-y-Coed, Pentrevoelas, Corwen,
Llangollen, Wynnstay Park, Wrexham, Eaton Hall, Chester; or Eaton Hall
may be taken on leaving Chester, Wrexham next, and so on to Beaumaris,
returning by Conway and Holywell.  This route may be comfortably
accomplished in four days; or if pressed for time, in three, as the
railway would be available from Ruabon (Wynnstay Park) to Chester.

Another excursion, which would occupy four days, might be made by taking
the railway from Chester to Birkenhead, embarking at Liverpool in the
steam-packet which passes Beaumaris and the Menai bridge for Caernarvon,
thence to Beddgelert, Pont Aberglaslyn, and return, ascend Snowdon,
descend to Dolbadarn, Pass of Llanberis, Capel Curig, Rhaiadr-y-Wennol,
and return by Nant Ffrancon slate quarries, Penrhyn Castle and Bangor,
thence by steamer to Liverpool.

An agreeable and more extended route may also be taken from Caernarvon to
Clynog, Pwllheli, Criccieth, Tremadoc, Port Madoc, Tan-y-bwlch,
Maentwrog, Ffestiniog, Beddgelert, Nant Gwynan, Capel Curig,
Rhaiadr-y-Wennol, Bettws-y-coed, Llanrwst, Conway, Penmaen Mawr, Aber,
and Bangor for the packet to Liverpool.

Another journey may be accomplished in nine days:—from Chester to Eaton
hall, Wrexham, Wynnstay, Chirk Castle, Llangollen, Valle Crucis Abbey,
Corwen, Vale of Edeirnion, Bala, Dolgelley, Cader Idris, Barmouth,
Harlech, Maentwrog, Tan-y-Bwlch, Ffestiniog, Port Madoc, Tremadoc, Pont
Aberglaslyn, Beddgelert, Capel Curig, Dolbadarn, Victoria Hotel, Snowdon,
Caernarvon, Menai bridge, Bangor, Aber, Conway, Abergele, St. Asaph,
Denbigh, Ruthin, Mold, Chester.

Those whose time is less limited can readily select tours which will
include a wider range of country, according to their taste and
convenience; we have, therefore, adopted, in our literary panorama, an
alphabetical arrangement, which, with the aid of the index, will direct
the reader to the description of any place he may be desirous of
visiting; and, as the distances are also marked, he may readily calculate
the extent of the route he contemplates.  The work has been compiled from
authentic sources, and has been carefully revised, throughout, by the
present editor, with the view of presenting to the public an accurate and
entertaining Guide-book through North Wales.




GLOSSARY.


The English traveller, in passing through North Wales, will find the
following Welsh terms frequently occur in the names of places; to which
are subjoined their significations in English.

_Ab_, or _Ap_, a prefix to proper names, signifying the son of

_Aber_, the fall of one water into another, a confluence.

_Am_, about, around.

_Ar_, upon, bordering upon.

_Avon_, or _Afon_, a river.

_Bach_, little, small.

_Ban_, high, lofty, tall.

_Bedd_, a grave or sepulchre.

_Bettws_, a station between hill and vale.

_Blaen_, a point or end.

_Bôd_, a residence.

_Braich_, a branch, an arm.

_Bron_, the breast, the slope of a hill.

_Bryn_, a hill, a mount.

_Bwlch_, a gap, defile, or pass.

_Bychan_, little, small.

_Cader_, a hill-fortress, a chair.

_Cae_, an inclosure, a hedge.

_Cantref_, a hundred of a shire, a district.

_Caer_, a city, a fort, a defensive wall.

_Capel_, a chapel.

_Carn_, a heap.

_Carnedd_, a heap of stones.

_Careg_, a stone.

_Castell_, a castle, fortress.

_Cefn_, ridge, the upper side, the back.

_Cell_, a cell; also a grove.

_Cil_, (pronounced keel) a retreat, a recess.

_Clawdd_, a hedge, a dyke.

_Clogwyn_, a precipice.

_Côch_, red.

_Coed_, a wood.

_Cors_, a bog or fen.

_Craig_, a rock or crag.

_Croes_, a cross.

_Cwm_, a valley, vale, or glen.

_Dinas_, a city, or fort, a fortified place.

_Dôl_, a meadow or dale, in the bend of the river.

_Drws_, a door-way, a pass.

_Dû_, black.

_Dwfr_, or _Dwr_, water.

_Dyffryn_, a valley.

_Eglwys_, a church.

_Ffordd_, a way, a road, a passage.

_Ffynnon_, a well, a spring.

_Gallt_, (mutable into _Allt_) a cliff, an ascent, the side of a hill.

_Garth_, a hill bending round.

_Glàn_, a brink or shore.

_Glâs_, bluish, or grayish green.

_Glyn_, a glen or valley through which a river runs.

_Gwern_, a watery meadow.

_Gwydd_, a wood.

_Gwyn_, white, fair.

_Gwys_, a summons.

_Havod_, a summer residence.

_Is_, lower, inferior, nether.

_Llan_, church, a smooth area, an inclosure.

_Llwyn_, a grove.

_Llyn_, a lake, a pool.

_Maen_, a stone.

_Maes_, a plain, an open field.

_Mawr_, great, large.

_Melin_, a mill.

_Moel_, a smooth conical hill.

_Mynydd_, a mountain.

_Nant_, a ravine, a brook.

_Newydd_, new, fresh.

_Pant_, a hollow, a valley.

_Pen_, a head, a summit; also chief, or end.

_Pentref_, a village, a hamlet.

_Pistyll_, a spout, a cataract.

_Plâs_, a hall or palace.

_Plwyf_, a parish.

_Pont_, a bridge.

_Porth_, a ferry, a port, a gateway.

_Pwll_, a pit, a pool.

_Rhaiadr_, a cataract.

_Rhiw_, an ascent.

_Rhôs_, a moist plain or meadow.

_Rhŷd_, a ford.

_Sarn_, a causeway, a pavement.

_Swydd_, a shire; also an office.

_Tàl_, the front or head; also tall.

_Tàn_, under.

_Traeth_, a sand or shore.

_Tre_, or _Tref_, a home, a town.

_Tri_, three.

_Troed_, a foot, the skirt of a hill.

_Twr_, a tower.

_Tŷ_, a house.

_Waun_ (from _Gwaun_), a meadow, downs.

_Y_, the, of.

_Yn_, in, at, into.

_Ynys_, an island.

_Ystrad_, a vale, a dale.

_Yspytty_, a hospital, an almshouse.




NORTH WALES DISTANCE TABLE

       Distance                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Distance
         from                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            from
       Chester.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        London.
                     46                   Aberconway or Conway, _f._ (market day)                                                                                                                                                                                                  230
                     34  Abergele             12  Abergele, _s._                                                                                                                                                                                                                   225
                     39  Bala                 32      45  Bala, _s._                                                                                                                                                                                                               195
                     61  Bangor               15      27      46  Bangor, _f._                                                                                                                                                                                                     242
                     68  Beaumaris            22      34      53       7  Beaumaris, _tu._ and _f._                                                                                                                                                                                249
                     70  Caernarvon           24      36      41       9      13  Caernarvon, _s._                                                                                                                                                                                 244
                     31  Corwen               35      32      12      41      49      50  Corwen, _w._ and _f._                                                                                                                                                                    194
                     25  Denbigh              23      14      26      37      44      46      18  Denbigh, _w._ and _s._                                                                                                                                                           214
                     57  Dolgelley            50      58      18      47      51      38      30      44  Dolgelley, _tu._ and _s._                                                                                                                                                213
                     14  Flint                34      23      34      49      56      58      26      17      52  Flint                                                                                                                                                            203
                     69  Haerlech             45      56      34      36      40      27      47      58      19      64  Haerlech, _s._                                                                                                                                           232
                      7  Hawarden             40      28      33      55      62      64      25      20      51       8      63  Hawarden, _s._                                                                                                                                   196
                     86  Holyhead             40      52      71      25      28      30      66      62      68      74      57      80  Holyhead, _s._                                                                                                                           267
                     18  Holywell             29      18      37      45      52      54      28      12      62       5      70      11       70  Holywell, _f._                                                                                                                  207
                     23  Llangollen           45      36      22      51      58      60      10      23      40      31      56      31       76      34  Llangollen, _s._                                                                                                        184
                     69  Llanidloes           82      90      50      81      85      72      65      77      34      77      53      74      106      80      55  Llanidloes, _s._                                                                                                188
                     51  Llanrwst             12      20      20      23      30      32      23      20      38      37      33      40       48      32      33      70  Llanrwst, _tu._ and _s._                                                                                218
                     70  Machynlleth          64      72      32      62      69      53      44      58      15      66      36      66       87      69      54      20      53  Machynlleth, _w._                                                                               206
                     12  Mold                 39      30      27      53      60      62      19      16      45       7      60       6       78      10      24      77      36      59  Mold, (by Wrexham), _w._ & _s._                                                         189
                     49  Montgomery           79      72      43      87      93      84      45      58      44      58      63      55      112      61      35      23      66      37      51  Montgomery, _th._                                                               169
                     58  Newtown              76      77      44      87      93      85      51      63      41      63      60      62      112      66      41      14      64      28      56       9  Newtown, _tu._ & _s._                                                   175
                     21  Pwllheli             45      57      43      30      34      21      68      67      37      79      25      85       51      75      65      71      37      52      70      76      78  Pwllheli, _w._ & _s._                                           243
                     21  Ruthin               31      22      18      45      52      54      10       8      36      16      48      15       70      18      15      69      28      49      10      50      55      59  Ruthin, _m._ & _s._                                     206
                     28  St. Asaph            19       8      38      34      41      43      24       6      56      15      64      21       59      10      28      88      26      70      18      64      69      69      14  St. Asaph, _f._                                 218
                     41  Welshpool            67      63      35      79      86      76      34      49      36      44      55      48      104      59      27      28      57      42      42       8      14      85      41      55  Welshpool, _th._                        171
                     12  Wrexham              48      39      34      62      69      71      22      25      52      19      69      16       87      22      12      58      46      67      12      39      44      78      18      31      30  Wrexham                         177




PANORAMA.


ABER,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

  _Distance from_     _Miles_.
Port Penrhyn                  5
Llanvair Vechan               2
Conway                        9
Penmaen Mawr                  3
Llandegai                    3½
London                      245

ABER, or, as it is called by way of distinction, Aber-gwyngregyn, the
Stream of the White Shells, is a small neat village, situated on the
Holyhead and Chester road, near the Lavan Sands, at the extremity of a
luxuriant vale watered by the river Gwyngregyn, which runs into the Irish
sea; it commands a fine view of the entrance into the Menai, with the
islands of Anglesea and Priestholme, and the vast expanse of water which
rolls beneath the ragged Ormesheads.  The pleasantness of its situation,
and the salubrity of its air, render this place exceedingly attractive
during the summer season, and the beach, at high water, is very
convenient for sea bathing.

The church is an ancient structure, with a square tower; the living being
in the gift of Sir R. W. Bulkeley.

The Bulkeley Arms is an excellent inn, where post-chaises and cars may be
had.

This is considered a very convenient station for such persons as wish to
examine Penmaen-mawr, and the adjacent country, either as naturalists or
artists.  From this place also persons frequently cross the Menai straits
immediately into Anglesea, in a direction towards Beaumaris.  The
distance is somewhat more than six miles.  When the tide is out, the
Lavan Sands are dry for four miles, in the same direction, over which the
passenger has to walk within a short distance of the opposite shore,
where the ferry-boat plies.  In fogs, the passage over these sands has
been found very dangerous, and many have been lost in making the
hazardous enterprise at such times.  As a very salutary precaution, the
bell of Aber church, which was presented for the purpose by the late Lord
Bulkeley, in 1817, is rung in foggy weather, with a view to direct those
persons whose business compels them to make the experiment.  It would be
dangerous for a stranger to undertake the journey without a guide, as the
sands frequently shift: however, since the erection of the Menai bridge,
this route is seldom taken.

The village is situated at the mouth of the deep glen, which runs in a
straight line a mile and a half between the mountains, and is bounded on
one side by a magnificent rock, called Maes-y-Gaer.  At the extremity of
this glen, a mountain presents a concave front, down the centre of which
a vast cataract precipitates itself in a double fall, upwards of sixty
feet in height, presenting in its rushing torrent over the scattered
fragments of rock a grand and picturesque appearance.

At the entrance of the glen, close to the village, is an extensive
artificial mount, flat at the top, and near sixty feet in diameter,
widening towards the base.  It was once the site of castle belonging to
the renowned prince, Llewelyn the Great, foundations are yet to be seen
round the summit; and in digging, traces of buildings have been
discovered.  This spot is famous as the scene of the reputed amour of
William de Breos, an English baron, with the wife of the Welsh hero, and
of the tragical occurrence which followed its detection.  This
transaction, which has given rise to a popular legend, is well told in
Miss Costello’s “Pictorial Tour,” published in 1845:—

Llywelyn had been induced by the artful promises of the smooth traitor,
king John, to accept the hand of his daughter, the princess Joan; but his
having thus allied himself did not prevent the aggressions of his
father-in-law, and John having cruelly murdered twenty-eight hostages,
sons of the highest Welsh nobility, Llywelyn’s indignation overcame all
other considerations, and he attacked John in all his castles between the
Dee and Conway, and, for that time freed North Wales from the English
yoke.

There are many stories told of the princess Joan, or Joanna, somewhat
contradictory, but generally received: she was, of course, not popular
with the Welsh, and the court bard, in singing the praise of the prince,
even goes so far as to speak of a female favourite of Llywelyn’s, instead
of naming his wife: perhaps he wrote his ode at the time when she was in
disgrace, in consequence of misconduct attributed to her.  It is related
that Llywelyn, at the battle of Montgomery, took prisoner William de
Breos, one of the knights of the English court, and while he remained his
captive treated him well, and rather as a friend than enemy.  This
kindness was repaid by De Breos with treachery, for he ventured to form
an attachment to the princess Joan, perhaps to renew one already begun
before her marriage with the Welsh prince.  He was liberated, and
returned to his own country; but scarcely was he gone than evil whispers
were breathed into the ear of Llywelyn, and vengeance entirely possessed
his mind: he, however, dissembled his feelings, and, still feigning the
same friendship, he invited De Breos to come to his palace at Aber as a
guest.  The lover of the princess Joan readily accepted the invitation,
hoping once more to behold his mistress; but he knew not the fate which
hung over him, or he would not have entered the portal of the man he had
injured so gaily as he did.

The next morning the princess Joan walked forth early, in a musing mood:
she was young, beautiful, she had been admired and caressed in her
father’s court, was there the theme of minstrels and the lady of many a
tournament—to what avail? her hand without her heart had been bestowed on
a brave but uneducated prince, whom she could regard as little less than
savage, who had no ideas in common with her, to whom all the refinements
of the Norman court were unknown, and whose uncouth people, and warlike
habits, and rugged pomp, were all distasteful to her.  Perhaps she sighed
as she thought of the days when the handsome young De Breos broke a lance
in her honour, and she rejoiced, yet regretted, that the dangerous
knight, the admired and gallant William, was again beneath her husband’s
roof.  In this state of mind she was met by the bard, an artful retainer
of Llywelyn, who hated all of English blood, and whose lays were never
awakened but in honour of his chief, but who contrived to deceive her
into a belief that he both pitied and was attached to her.  Observing her
pensive air, and guessing at its cause, he entered into conversation with
her, and having ‘beguiled her of her tears’ by his melody, he at length
ventured on these dangerous words.—

    “Diccyn, doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn,
    Beth a roit ti am weled Gwilym?”

    “Tell me, wife of Llywelyn, what would you give for sight of your
    William?”

The princess, thrown off her guard, and confiding in harper’s faith,
imprudently exclaimed:—

    “Cymru, Lloegr, a Llywelyn,
    Y rown i gyd am weled Gwilym!”

    “Wales, and England, and Llywelyn—all would I give to behold my
    William!”

The harper smiled bitterly, and, taking her arm, pointed slowly with his
finger in the direction of a neighbouring hill, where, at a place called
Wern Grogedig, grew a lofty tree, from the branches of which a form was
hanging, which she too well recognised as that of the unfortunate William
de Breos.

In a dismal cave beneath that spot was buried “the young, the beautiful,
the brave;” and the princess Joan dared not shed a tear to his memory.
Tradition points out the place, which is called Cae Gwilym Dhu.

Notwithstanding this tragical episode, the princess and her husband
managed to live well together afterwards; whether she convinced him of
his error, and he repented his hasty vengeance, or whether he thought it
bettor policy to appear satisfied; at all events, Joan frequently
interfered between her husband and father to prevent bloodshed, and
sometimes succeeded.  On one occasion she did so with some effect, at a
time when the Welsh prince was encamped on a mountain above Ogwen lake,
called Carnedd Llywelyn from that circumstance; when he saw from the
heights his country in ruins, and Bangor in flames.  Davydd, the son of
the princess, was Llywelyn’s favourite son.  Joan died in 1237, and was
buried in a monastery of Dominican friars at Llanvaes, near Beaumaris;
Llywelyn erected over her a splendid monument, which existed till Henry
the Eighth gave the monastery to one of his courtiers to pillage, and the
chapel became a barn.  The coffin, which was all that remained of the
tomb, like that of Llywelyn himself, was thrown into a little brook, and
for two hundred and fifty years was used as a watering trough for cattle.
It is now preserved at Baron Hill, near Beaumaris.



ABERDARON,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Caernarvon          36
Nevyn               16
Pwllheli            16



This is a miserably poor village, at the very extremity of
Caernarvonshire, seated in a bay, beneath some high and sandy cliffs.  On
the summit of a promontory are the ruins of a small church, called Capel
Vair, or Chapel of our Lady.  The chapel was placed here to give the
seamen an opportunity of invoking the tutelar saint for protection
through the dangerous sound.  Not far distant, are also the ruins of
another chapel, called Anhaelog.  At this spot, pilgrims in days of yore
embarked on their weary journey to pay their vows at the graves of the
saints of Bardsey.

The original church was a very old structure, in the style of ancient
English architecture, dedicated to St. Hyrwyn, a saint of the island of
Bardsey, and was formerly collegiate and had the privilege of sanctuary;
it contained a nave, south aisle, and chancel, and was an elegant and
highly finished building.  A new church has been recently built, on the
site of the old one, at the expense of the landed proprietors, aided by
the church building societies.

The mouth of the bay is guarded by two little islands, called Ynys
Gwylan, a security to the small craft of the inhabitants, who are chiefly
fishermen.  It takes its name from the rivulet Daron, which empties
itself here.

This primitive village is noted as the birth place of Richard Robert
Jones, alias Dick Aberdaron, the celebrated Welsh linguist.  He was born
in 1778, and died in deep distress at St. Asaph in 1843.  Jones was the
son of a carpenter, and always evinced a want of capacity, except in the
acquiring of languages by self culture.  He began with the Latin tongue
when fifteen years of age.  At nineteen he commenced with Greek, and
proceeded with Hebrew, Persiac, Arabic, French, Italian, and other modern
languages; and was ultimately conversant with thirteen.  Notwithstanding
that he read all the best authors, particularly in the Greek, he seemed
to acquire no other knowledge than as to the form and construction of
language.  He was always in great indigence, and used to parade the
streets of Liverpool extremely dirty and ragged, with some mutilated
stores of literature under his arm, and wearing his beard several inches
long.  He was at one time much noticed by the late Mr. Roscoe, who
secured him a weekly stipend, which however was not maintained after the
death of that distinguished scholar.


Bardsey Island,


Generally called by the Welsh Yr Ynys Enlli (the Island of the Current),
and formerly known as the Island of the Saints, is situated about three
leagues to the west of Aberdaron; it is somewhat more than two miles long
and one broad, and contains about 370 acres of land, of which near
one-third is occupied by a high mountain, affording sustenance only to a
few sheep and rabbits.  The number of inhabitants does not exceed one
hundred, and their chief employment is fishing, there being great
abundance round the island.  It is the property of Lord Newborough.

On the south-east side, which is only accessible to the mariner, there is
a small well sheltered harbour, capable of admitting vessels of 30 or 40
tons burden.  The lighthouse was erected in 1821; it is a handsome square
tower, 74 feet high, and surmounted by a lantern, 10 feet high.

This island was formerly celebrated for an abbey, a few portions only of
which are now remaining.  Dubricius, archbishop of Caerlleon, resigned
his see to St. David, retired here, and died A.D. 612; he was interred
upon the spot, but such was the veneration paid to his memory in after
ages, that his remains were removed in the year 1107 to Llandaff, and
interred in that cathedral, of which Dubricius had been the first bishop.
After the slaughter of the monks of Bangor Is-y-coed, nine hundred
persecuted men who had embraced Christianity, sought a sacred refuge in
this island, where numbers of the devout had already established a
sanctuary, and found repose from the troubles which then raged through
the Principality.



ABERDOVEY,
(_Merionethshire_.)

Aberystwyth across the sands            11
Barmouth                                16
Dolgellau                               21
Machynlleth                             10
Towyn                                    4

This is a small sea-port in the parish of Towyn, and about four miles
from that place.  It is pleasantly situated on the northern side of the
mouth of the river Dovey, which here empties itself into Cardigan bay,
and is rapidly rising into estimation as a bathing place.  The beach is
highly favourable for bathing, being composed of hard firm sand,
affording a perfectly safe carriage-drive of about eight miles in length,
along the margin of the sea.  The ride to Towyn along the sands, at low
water, is extremely delightful.

Several respectable houses and a commodious hotel (the Corbet Arms) have
of late years been erected for the accommodation of visitors; and a
chapel of ease has also been lately built by subscription, which affords
great convenience to the inhabitants, who are four miles distant from the
parish church.  Service is performed every Sunday morning in English, and
in the afternoon in the Welsh language.

The river Dovey is here one mile in width, and is crossed by a ferry,
which leads by a road along the sea shore to Borth, whence is a
communication with the Aberystwyth road.  During the spring tides the
ferry can only be crossed at low water, on account of the sands being
flooded, and so rendered impassable.  The river is navigable nine miles
up a most picturesque country, and affords good trout fishing.



ABERFFRAW,
(_Anglesea_.)

Caernarvon Ferry          3
Mona Inn                  8
Newborough                7

Aberffraw, once a princely residence, is now reduced to a few small
houses; it is situated on the river Ffraw, near a small bay.  Not a
vestige is to be seen of its former importance, except the rude wall of
an old barn, and Gardd y Llys, at the west end of the town.  It was a
chief seat of the native princes, and one of the three courts of justice
for the Principality.  Here was always kept one of the three copies of
the ancient code of laws.  This place is of great antiquity, being one of
three selected by Roderic the Great, about 870, for the residence of his
successors.  In 962 it was ravaged by the Irish.  An extent was made of
Aberffraw in the 13th Edward III, from which may be learned some of the
ancient revenues of the Welsh princes.  It appeared that part arose from
the rents of lands, from the profits of mills and fisheries, and often
from things taken in kind; but the last more frequently commuted for
their value in money.  There is a good inn called the Prince Llywelyn.

Near to Aberffraw is Bodorgan, the seat of Owen Augustus Fuller Meyrick,
Esq., which is pleasantly situated, and overlooks Caernarvon bay.  The
mansion, gardens, and conservatories are worth a visit from the tourist



ABERGELE,
(_Denbighshire_.)

Bangor              27
Chester             35
Conway              12
London             225
Rhuddlan             5
Rhyl                 7
St. Asaph            8

Abergele, {8} a market town, is pleasantly situated on the great Chester
and Holyhead road, on the edge of Rhuddlan marsh, and about a mile from
the sea shore.  The church is ancient, with a plain uninteresting tower,
which the white-washing hand of modern “improvement” has deprived of all
pretensions to the picturesque.  The town consists only of one long
street; and in 1841, its population, with the parish, was returned at
2661.

The coast is composed of firm hard sands, affording delightful drives for
many miles.  Tradition says, the sea has in old time overflowed a vast
tract of inhabited country, once extending at least three miles
northward; as an evidence of which, a dateless epitaph, in Welsh, on the
church-yard wall, is cited, which is thus translated: “In this church
yard lies a man who lived three miles to the north of it.”  There is,
however, much stronger proof in the fact, that at low water may be seen,
at a distance from the clayey bank, a long tract of hard loam, in which
are imbedded numerous bodies of oak trees, tolerably entire, but so soft
as to cut with a knife as easily as wax: the wood is collected by the
poorer people, and, after being brought to dry upon the beach, is used as
fuel.

The salubrity of the air, the pleasantness of situation, and the
superiority of its shore for sea-bathing, have rendered this town a
favourite resort for genteel company, and it has long been a fashionable
watering place.  The environs are picturesque, the scenery beautiful, and
many interesting excursions may be made from this locality.  The Bee
Hotel, one of the best in the kingdom, is a most comfortable house, and
possesses superior accommodations; and there are some excellent private
lodgings to be had in the town: for those who would prefer a more
immediate contiguity to the sea, there are cottages close to the beach,
fit for respectable families, and apartments may be had from farmers, who
are in the habit of accommodating visitors for the summer season.
Bateman Jones, Esq. has a handsome residence on the road between the town
and the beach.  Besides the Chester and Holyhead and other mails that
pass through Abergele, there is an omnibus which runs daily to Voryd, to
meet the Liverpool and Rhyl steam-packet.

The pretty villages of Bettws and Llanfair are in this immediate
neighbourhood: near the former is Coed Coch, the residence of J. Ll.
Wynn, Esq.  Llanfair is most picturesquely situated on the Elwy, a little
way above its conflux with the Aled.  Close to the village is Garthewin,
the sylvan residence of Brownlow W. Wynne, Esq. embowered in trees; and
following up the Elwy and its narrow but beautiful valley, is the village
of Llangerniew; near to it is Llyn Elwy, the pool from which issues and
gives name to the river Elwy.  Havod-unos, about a quarter of a mile from
the village, is the seat of S. Sandbach, Esq. an eminent Liverpool
merchant, who some time ago purchased it and the estate, once the
property of a long list of _ap Llwyds_.  Two or three miles to the
south-east, lies the village of Llansannan, at the head of the pretty
vale of Aled.  Close below the village is the elegant modern mansion of
the Yorkes, called Dyffryn Aled: it is built of Bath free stone, and
presents a very beautiful and classical structure.  These are places a
little out of the common track of tourists, but they will not be
disappointed at visiting them; and from Abergele is the most convenient
start to them.  The roads are good; the country very beautiful; trout
fishing is excellent in the Elwy and Aled from their sources, the Aled
and Elwy pools, to Rhuddlan; and the villages afford very good passing-by
accommodations.

On the hills above Abergele, grow some of the more uncommon plants;
geranium sanguineum, rubia peregrina, halloboris fœtidus.  In the shady
wood, paris quadrifolia, and ophrys nidus avis; and on the beach,
glaucium luteum, and eryngium maritimum abundantly.  The hills are
interesting to the geologist as well as to the botanist; and command
remarkably grand and extensive views of the ocean, and of the adjacent
mountain scenery.

About a mile from Abergele, on the left of the road towards Conway,
stands Gwrych Castle, a modern castellated mansion, the property and
residence of Henry Lloyd Bamford Hesketh, Esq.  The situation is
admirably chosen for a magnificent sea view, which, owing to the constant
passing of vessels for the ports of Liverpool and Chester, is extremely
beautiful and animated.  Very near to this singular but ambitious looking
structure, is a huge calcareous rock, called Cefn-yr-Ogo (or the Back of
the Cavern), an inexhaustible mine of limestone, where a multitude of
labourers are constantly employed in blasting the rock, and breaking the
masses, which are exported to Liverpool and other places.  But what
chiefly renders it curious is the circumstance of a number of natural
caverns penetrating its side in different places; one of which, called
Ogo (or the Cavern), is well worth a visit.  It is celebrated in history
as having once afforded a place of retreat to a British army.  Its mouth
resembles the huge arched entrance of a Gothic cathedral.  A few feet
within this, and immediately in the centre of it, a rock rising from the
floor to the lofty roof, not unlike a massive pillar rudely sculptured,
divides the cavern into two apartments.  The hollow to the left soon
terminates; but that to the right spreads into a large chamber, 30 feet
in height, and stretching to a greater depth than human curiosity has
ever been hardy enough to explore.  Making a short turn a few yards from
the entrance, and sweeping into the interior of the mountain, the form
and dimension of the abyss are concealed in impenetrable darkness, and
its windings can only be followed about forty yards with prudence, when
the light totally disappears, and the flooring becomes both dirty and
unsafe.  Stalactites of various fanciful forms decorate the fretted roof
and sides of this extraordinary cavern. {10}

From Cave Hill (Cefn-yr-Ogo), is an extensive and varied prospect.  The
city of St. Asaph, the Vale of Clwyd, the mountains of Flintshire, and in
clear weather, a portion of Cheshire and Lancashire, with the town of
Liverpool, are distinctly seen to the eastward; and to the north is
visible the Isle of Man; to the west, the Island of Anglesea; and to the
south-west, the mountains of Caernarvonshire.  Just below is the small
village of


Llanddulas.


In this little village or glen it is supposed that Richard the Second was
surrounded and taken by a band of ruffians, secreted by the Earl of
Northumberland, for the purpose of forcing him into the hands of
Bolingbroke, who was at Flint.  Here enterprise has discovered the means
of realizing wealth.  A railway, several miles long, has been constructed
from the sea to Llysfaen limestone rocks, being on a remarkably steep
incline down the side of the mountain.  It is a stupendous work, and
highly creditable to the projector, Mr. Jones.

About two miles nearer Conway, is the increasing and respectable village
of Colwyn.  A new church has lately been erected here.  Glan-y-don, the
seat of H. Hesketh, Esq., is in this neighbourhood; Mr. Wynne and Dr.
Cumming have cottages here, and many other genteel residences have
recently been built.  The sea bathing is very good, and the place is
pleasant and salubrious.  Up the valley, to the left of the bridge, is
the village of Llanelian, with its calm green meadows, and its far-famed
holywell, or Ffynan Fair.

Returning to Abergele, and at the opposite end, is a good and direct road
to Rhuddlan, through a number of excellent and extensive corn farms.  The
road crosses the celebrated Morva Rhuddlan (or Rhuddlan Marsh).

About three miles on the St. Asaph road is the neat and clean little
village of


St. George, or Llan Saint Sior; {12}


And about a quarter of a mile before you come to it, you pass on your
right Pen-y-Parc Hill, on the top of which is a Roman encampment,
afterwards occupied by the famous Owen Gwynedd, during his struggles
against English encroachments; and it was here he pitched his tents after
his “fine retreat before Henry the Second, whom he here kept at bay.”
The curious may visit it from the village, inquiring for Park Meirch,
_where the old battles were fought_.  And close to this place is
Dinorben, an ancient manor-house, from which is the title of Lord
Dinorben, whose residence, Kinmel Park, is a little beyond, and close to
the village.  About six years since the mansion was destroyed by fire;
but has now been rebuilt in a style of princely elegance, and has once
more become the home of that hospitality for which the respected
proprietor is famous.  The park is finely wooded and well stocked with
deer.  The scenery from the house is rich, varied, and beautiful; the
gardens and grounds are extensive, and tastefully laid out.  His royal
highness, the Duke of Sussex, for several years before his death,
annually spent some weeks at Kinmel in the shooting season.

The church at St. George is a neat structure, and has recently been
restored by Lord Dinorben, the patron.  In the church-yard is a costly
stone mausoleum, in the Gothic style, erected over the remains of Lady
Dinorben, a lady beloved for her virtues, and eminent for her charities.
The architect was Mr. Jones, of Chester: the design and workmanship are
chaste and elegant.

Not far from Kinmel, towards St. Asaph, is Bodelwyddan, the modern
elegant mansion of Sir John Hay Williams, Bart., one of the most lovely
spots in Wales; and in the plain below is Pengwern, the hospitable seat
of Lord Mostyn.



ABERYSTWYTH,
(_Cardiganshire_.)

Aberdovey                 11
Devil’s Bridge            12
Llanidloes                30
London, by Ross          217
Machynlleth               18

[It may be necessary to apprise the reader, that though this work is
professedly a description of North Wales ONLY, it has been thought
advisable to deviate from the letter of its title, so far as to include
within its pages the above distinguished town, and that great and
attractive curiosity, the Devil’s Bridge; both of which, situated in
Cardiganshire, the North Wales tourist usually visits, the town being
only 18 miles beyond Machynlleth, and the cataract the same distance from
Llanidloes.]

Aberystwyth has long been esteemed a fashionable watering place; the
gently sloping beach, the clearness of the water, and the salubriousness
of the air, have all conspired to render it an inviting spot for
sea-bathing; and within the last few years, the efforts of art have been
sedulously employed in seconding the works of nature, by furnishing to
its visitants excellent roads, superior accommodations, and suitable
buildings for fashionable amusements.  Pleasant walks have also been
formed in the environs.  The town, which owes its origin to the erection
of the castle, is described by Leland as having been encompassed by
walls, (the last remains of which were removed some years since,) and as
being in his time a better market than Cardigan; and Camden, who ascribes
the building of its walls to Gilbert de Clare, earl of Strongbow, states,
that it was then the most populous town in the county.  Since that time
it has materially increased, both in extent and importance, and may be
still regarded as the most flourishing place in this part of South Wales,
its population in 1841 being returned at 4916.  It is pleasantly situated
at the lower extremity of the valley of Rheidiol, amid lofty hills, and
on a bold eminence overlooking the bay of Cardigan, by which it is
bounded on one side, while on the other it is environed by the Rheidiol,
over which is a stone bridge of five arches, forming an entrance to it
from the south.

The houses are in general well built, and of respectable appearance,
several of them being large and handsome, especially such as are of
modern erection, which are entirely of stone.  The streets are disposed
with considerable regularity, and well paved and macadamised.  The
inhabitants are supplied with water from the river Rheidiol, which is
brought into the town on carriages in the form of small carts, drawn by
one horse, each holding two barrels, and sold at a low rate.  About the
commencement of the last century, it began to rise into notice as a
bathing-place, and from a series of progressive improvements, is now one
of the most frequented places of fashionable resort on this part of the
coast.

The beach affords a pleasant and interesting walk; and the shore,
consisting of lofty and precipitous rocks of dark-coloured slate, is worn
by the action of the waves into caverns of romantic and picturesque
appearance.  The beach is composed of fine pebbles, among which are found
many valuable stones; the water in consequence is always peculiarly
clear, and uncontaminated with any admixtures.  In sandy situations, the
contrary is frequently the case.  The fine stones are picked up with
great avidity by the numerous visitors residing here in the summer
months, and afford ample employment to several lapidaries in the town.
Hot sea-water, vapour, and medicated baths are provided with every
requisite accommodation; several bathing machines are in attendance, and
from the convenient sloping of the beach, a facility of bathing is
afforded at almost any state of the tide, within a very short distance of
the shore.  For the reception of the increasing number of visitors, many
additional lodging-houses have been built, of which the Marine Terrace, a
handsome range of modern buildings suitable for private families, is
situated on the margin of the bay, commanding a fine marine view.  The
Belle Vue is a spacious and commodious hotel; in front of which is a fine
promenade.  On the south-west of the Marine Terrace, is a gateway leading
to a spacious castellated mansion, called the Castle-house, commanding an
extensive view across the bay: it was originally built as a private
mansion by the late Sir Uvedale Price, Bart. of Foxley hall,
Herefordshire, and consists of three octagonal towers, connected by
ranges of apartments, and having a light and elegant balcony on the side
towards the sea.  Beyond this, on one side is the Castle Hill, crowned
with the venerable ruins of an ancient fortress, and forming another
favourite promenade, affording from different points various extensive,
romantic, and interesting views of the sea, the neighbouring hills, and
the surrounding country.

On the other side of the Castle Hill, separated only by the churchyard,
are the new public rooms, handsomely built in the Grecian style of
architecture, on ground given by W. E. Powell, Esq., of Nant Eös, from a
design by Mr. Repton, at an expense of £2000, raised by subscription in
shares of £10 each, and opened to the public in 1820.  The suite consists
of a very handsome assembly and promenade room, a card-room and a
billiard-room.  There is a good library in the new market-place; a new
theatre has been built on the north parade, and was opened for the first
time in the summer of 1833.  The church, dedicated to St. Michael, was
built by subscription in the year 1787: it is a plain structure, situated
within the precincts of the castle, and separated from the walks along
the ruins of that edifice by a stone wall erected at the expense of the
inhabitants.  A gallery was erected in the church at its western end in
the year 1790, at an expense of £104 14s., which was defrayed by Mrs.
Margaret Pryce.  The service is performed in the morning and evening in
the English language, and in the afternoon in Welsh; there is likewise
service on the evenings of Wednesday in the English, and on the Thursday
in the Welsh language.

The augmented population of this place, and the increasing number of
visitors during the season, having rendered the erection of another place
of worship necessary, a church or chapel has been recently built upon a
large scale by subscription, after a plan by Mr. Haycock, of Shrewsbury,
in the modern Gothic style, at an expense of £3600, including a grant of
£1000 from the parliamentary commissioners, and £400 from the society for
the enlargement of churches and chapels: it was consecrated in September,
1833.  The parish church is situated at Llanbadarn, at about a mile
distant from the town.  There is a peculiarity regarding the grave-stones
at this place: they are generally fixed in a stack of bricks built up for
the purpose, and white-washed, the tablet appearing in front.  The
surface of the grave is usually paved with a kind of small marble stones,
which are found in abundance on the beach.  There are also several places
of worship for dissenters.  Aberystwyth likewise possesses the advantage
of a chalybeate spring, situate at a very short distance east of the
town.  This spring was discovered by a kind of accident in 1779.  It is
highly spoken of, as containing valuable medicinal properties, and much
resembling the Tunbridge waters; but it is always advisable that a
physician should be consulted as to the season and extent of its use.  To
complete the circle of attractions which this interesting place presents,
the annual races are here rising into repute; these usually take place in
August, in a field near Gogerddan, about three miles from the town.
Archery and cricket clubs have also been established, and are upheld with
great spirit; and here the lovers of angling may be gratified with their
favourite diversion.  The Ystwyth and the Rheidiol are in the immediate
vicinity; the autumnal fishing for salmon and sewin is excellent; and
within a day’s excursion, a variety of lake-fishing will afford capital
sport.

Aberystwyth contains many interesting relics of antiquity, and was
evidently in the “olden time,” a place of some renown, as well as a scene
of some of the unhappy troubles which darkened the reign of Charles the
First.

In queen Elizabeth’s reign a company of Germans reaped a large fortune in
working the silver mines in the vicinity of this town.  Sir Hugh
Myddleton, after them, was equally successful, and accumulated £2000 a
month out of one silver mine at Bwlch yr Eskir, which enabled him (in
1614) to bring the new river to London.  He, again, was succeeded by Mr.
Bushell, a servant of Sir Francis Bacon, who also gained such immense
profits, that he made Charles the First a present of a regiment of horse,
and clothed his whole army; he also furnished the king with a loan of
£40,000, which was considered as a gift to supply his necessities; and
when that unfortunate monarch was pressed, his devoted subject raised a
regiment among his miners at his own charge.

On Pen Dinas, a very high and steep hill, near the bridge over the
Rheidiol, is a large entrenchment, still in a good state of preservation,
and where, Caradoc informs us, Rhŷs ap Gruffydd, in 1113, encamped his
forces, which, by a manœuvre of the English, were enticed from the hill
over the bridge, to besiege Aberystwyth castle, where they were
surrounded and cut off almost to a man.  The tradition of the town
attributes this entrenchment to the forces employed by Cromwell to
besiege the castle.  Opposite this, on a hill at the extremity of the
town, are two other entrenchments, in a bad state of preservation and
destitute of the tumuli or barrows, often found contiguous to such
vestiges in Wales.

Aberystwyth is a place of considerable trade; but the harbour, being a
bar harbour, is of uncertain and often dangerous navigation, and
frequently choked up, until the land freshes come down, after heavy falls
of rain, and force a passage.  The trustees, acting under the harbour act
passed in 1780, being empowered to raise the sum of £4000 for its
improvement, upon mortgage of the dues, and seeing the necessity of doing
something more effectually than the works they were occasionally enabled
to erect by the expenditure of the annual revenues, which were constantly
being swept away by the sea, determined upon employing that eminent
engineer and hydrographer, the late Mr. Nimmo, to survey the harbour, and
to give his report thereon.  The report having been published, by which
it appeared that a sum of £10,000 was necessary to carry his suggestions
into effect; a committee was formed, who issued a prospectus, soliciting
subscriptions from those disposed to aid them in the accomplishment of so
desirable an object, and the following munificent donations were
immediately made: the Duke of Newcastle, £1000; the Earl of Lisburne,
£500; Colonel Powell, M.P. £500; Pryce Pryce, Esq. M.P. £500.  The works
have since been completed.

The walks and drives in the vicinity are numerous and engaging; and from
the number of eminences by which the town is environed on the land side,
views the most varied and interesting present themselves to the lover of
the picturesque.  From the summit of Pen Dinas, he at once beholds three
beautiful valleys, with the rivers Ystwyth and Rheidiol winding their
devious course on either side beneath his feet.  On turning round, he is
gratified with a magnificent view of the expansive bay of Cardigan, with
its bold coast stretching out on either hand to the extremity of
Cardiganshire on the southern side, and that of Caernarvon on the
northern; the latter embracing within its range the rocky ridge of Cader
Idris and the lofty peaks of Snowdon.  The prospect from the summit of
Craig-lâs is equally beautiful and diversified.  The new line of road to
Hereford and Shrewsbury, completed at an expense of £4000, along the
opposite bank of the Rheidiol, to the Devil’s Bridge road, and nearly
parallel with it, passes through some fine scenery, and the course of the
river from the excellent new inn at Ponterwyd is wild and terrific,
particularly about the spot called the Parson’s Bridge, half a mile
therefrom.

The hotels and inns at Aberystwyth afford every comfort for the
entertainment of visitors, and there is every facility of coach
travelling to various parts of the country.


THE DEVIL’S BRIDGE,
(_Cardiganshire_.)

Aberystwyth          12
Havod                 4
Llanidloes           19

Pont-y-Mynach, or Pont-ar-Fynach, vulgarly the Devil’s Bridge, near the
Havod Arms inn, is a single arch, about 30 feet in the chord, thrown over
another arch of less than 20 feet, which spans a dark and tremendous
chasm.  The under arch is said to have been thrown across by the monks of
Ystrad Florida Abbey, about the year 1087; but the country people,
thinking so bold an effort above the reach of those ghostly fathers,
ascribed it to his Satanic Majesty.  The present bridge was built in
1753, at the expense of the county, over the original, which was left
standing; and the railings were put up in 1814, by Mr. Johnes, of Havod.
It is a most romantic and extraordinary structure.

The scenery in this neighbourhood is inexpressibly grand and sublime—what
Byron would call, “a blending of all beauties;” a combination of all
those lovely charms and impressive wonders, which Nature has scattered
with such exuberant prodigality throughout the mountains and valleys of
Wales.

The Havod Arms inn stands on a most interesting site in this locality,
and affords excellent accommodation to tourists.

Few persons, whether from North or South Wales, who visit the falls of
Pont-y-Mynach, but will be desirous of seeing the celebrated seat of the
late Mr. Johnes, at


Havod,


Which is about four miles distant.  The mansion was built, and the estate
laid out in its present paradisaical state of loveliness, by the late Mr.
Johnes, of whom it has been truly said, he made the barren wilderness
around him to smile, and converted the worthless heath into waving woods,
luxuriant corn fields, and pastures.  From October, 1795, to April, 1801,
Mr. Johnes planted more than 2,065,000 trees, besides a great number of
acres that he sowed with acorns.  Since this period the plantations have
been extended on the same scale with equal spirit; from one to two
hundred thousand trees being planted every year.

The mansion is built of Portland stone, in a somewhat novel mode of
architecture, from designs by Mr. Baldwyn of Bath; it combines the
distinguishing features of the Moorish and Gothic styles, with turrets
and painted windows.  It is situated near the banks of the river Ystwyth,
and beautifully environed by lofty hills, clothed with oak.  The interior
of the house corresponds in elegance with the exterior.

A correct idea of the enchanting beauties of the scenery has been left on
record by the elegant pen of Mr. Cumberland:—“Havod is a place in itself
so pre-eminently beautiful, that it highly merits a particular
description.  It stands surrounded with so many noble scenes, diversified
with elegance as well as with grandeur; the country on the approach to it
is so very wild and uncommon, and the place itself is now so embellished
by art, that it will be difficult, I believe, to point out a spot that
can be put in competition with it, considered either as the object of the
painter’s eye, the poet’s mind, or as a desirable residence for those
who, admirers of the beautiful wildness of nature, love also to inhale
the pure air of aspiring mountains, and enjoy that _santo pacé_, as the
Italians expressively term it, which arises from solitudes made social by
a family circle.  From the portico it commands a woody, narrow, winding
vale; the undulating form of whose ascending shaggy sides are richly
clothed with various foliage, broken with silver waterfalls, and crowned
with climbing sheep-walks, reaching to the clouds.  Neither are the
luxuries of life absent; for, on the margin of the Ystwyth, where it
flows broadest through this delicious vale, we see hothouses and a
conservatory; beneath the rocks, a bath; amid the recesses of the woods,
a flower-garden; and within the building, whose decorations, though rich,
are pure and simple, we find a mass of rare and valuable literature,
whose pages here seem doubly precious, where meditation finds scope to
range unmolested.

“In a word, so many are the delights afforded by the scenery of this
place and its vicinity, to a mind imbued with any taste, that the
impression on mine was increased after an interval of ten years from the
first visit, employed chiefly in travelling among the Alps, the
Appennines, the Sabine hills, and the Tyrolese; along the shores of the
Adriatic, over the Glaciers of Switzerland, and up the Rhine; where,
though in search of beauty, I never, I feel, saw any thing so fine—never
so many pictures concentrated in one spot; so that, warmed by the renewal
of my acquaintance with them, I am irresistibly urged to attempt a
description of the hitherto almost virgin-haunts of these obscure
mountains.

“Wales, and its borders, both North and South, abound, at intervals, with
fine things: Piercefield has grounds of great magnificence, and wonderful
picturesque beauty; Downton Castle has a deliciously wooded vale, most
tastefully managed; Llangollen is brilliant; the banks of the Conway
savagely grand; Barmouth romantically rural; the great Pistyll-y-Rhaiadr
is horribly wild; Rhaiadr-y-Wennol gay, and gloriously irregular; each of
which merits a studied description.  But at Havod and its neighbourhood,
I find the effects of all in one circle; united with this peculiarity,
the deep dingles, and mighty woody slopes, which, from a different
source, conduct the Rheidiol’s never-failing waters from Plinlimmon, and
the Mynach, are of an unique character, as mountainous forests,
accompanying gigantic size with graceful forms; and taken altogether, I
see ‘the sweetest interchange of hill and valley, rivers, woods and
plains, and falls, with forests crowned, rocks, dens, and caves,’
insomuch that it requires little enthusiasm there to feel forcibly with
Milton—

    ‘All things that be send up from earth’s great altar
    Silent praise.’

“There are four fine walks from the house, chiefly through ways
artificially made by the proprietor; all dry, kept clean, and composed of
materials found on the spot; which is chiefly a coarse stone, of a
greyish cast, friable in many places, and like slate, but oftener
consisting of immense masses that cost the miner, in making some parts of
these walks, excessive labour; for there are places where it was
necessary to perforate the rock many yards, in order to pass a promontory
that, jutting across the way, denied further access; and to go round
which you must have taken a great tour, and made a fatiguing descent.  As
it is, the walks are so conducted that few are steep; the transitions
easy, the returns commodious, and the branches distinct.  Neither are
there too many; for much is left for future projectors; and if a man be
stout enough to range the underwoods, and fastidious enough to reject all
trodden paths, he may, almost every where, stroll from the studied line,
till he be glad to regain the friendly conduct of the well-known way.
Yet one must be nice, not to be content at first to visit the best points
of view by the general routine; for all that is here done has been to
remove obstructions, reduce the materials, and conceal the art; and we
are no where presented with attempts to force the untamed streams, or
indeed to invent any thing, where nature, the great mistress, has left
all art behind.”

To this lively delineation, we shall only add one sentence of the Rev.
Mr. Warner, who, after visiting this spot, remarks:—“The whole together
forms a scene so striking, that while wandering through its ever-changing
beauties, we felt no inclination to tax Mr. Cumberland with enthusiasm
when he declared that in ten years’ travelling through the Alps, the
Appennines, the Sabine hills, and the Tyrolese; the shores of the
Adriatic; the Glaciers of Switzerland; and the banks of the Rhine; he
never saw any thing so fine—never so many pictures concentrated in one
spot.”

The splendid library at Havod was adorned with a most valuable collection
of books and manuscripts, which Mr. Johnes had, at an immense expense,
brought together, many of which were unique and of the highest historical
importance, including those of Sir John Sebright’s collection, in the
Welsh language, together with some splendidly illuminated manuscripts of
Froissart.  These, with several thousand volumes, comprising a complete
Don Quixote’s library, with other works of equal rarity, which cannot be
replaced, were unfortunately consumed by a fire which destroyed the
mansion on March 13, 1807.  The origin of this calamity has never been
satisfactorily ascertained, neither is it possible to estimate, with any
approach to accuracy, the extent of the loss: it has been stated at
£70,000.  However, Mr. Johnes determined to restore his mansion in the
best manner he could, and another collection of books was soon made,
founded by the Pesaro library, which Mr. Johnes had purchased in Italy,
and was on its way to Havod at the time when the fire occurred.

This highly esteemed, accomplished, and public-spirited gentleman
survived the destructive visitation about nine years, during which he was
engaged in promoting improvements on his estate.  He died at Exeter, and
his mortal remains were interred in the family vault at the new church
built by himself within the precincts of Havod grounds.  His widow
survived until October, 1833, when she also died at Exeter, and was
buried in the same tomb with her respected husband and their only
daughter, who died on the 24th July, 1811, in the 27th year of her age.
The family becoming extinct upon the death of the widow, the vault, after
her interment, was completely arched over.

The whole of the magnificent estate of Havod was put up to auction by Mr.
Robins, in the spring of 1831, and became the property of the Duke of
Newcastle, together with the timber, the splendid collection of books and
furniture, and the large cellar of choice wines, for which that nobleman
is said to have paid about £62,000.  The noble duke expended a very large
sum in enlarging and improving, and became a most munificent benefactor
to the neighbourhood.  In 1843, however, it was again submitted to the
hammer of Mr. Robins, but no sale was effected.  The estate has since
been bought of His Grace by H. Bold Houghton, Esq.  The purchase-money is
said to have been £150,000.



AMLWCH.
(_Anglesea_.)

Beaumaris                16
Holyhead                 20
Llanerch-y-medd           6
Menai Bridge             18

This is a market town on the coast, chiefly supported by the copper
mines, with which the surrounding district abounds.  About the year 1766,
Amlwch had not more than half-a-dozen houses in the whole parish, but now
it contains a population exceeding 6000.  It has a capacious harbour, cut
out of the solid rock or slate, executed at the expense of the mining
companies, capable of admitting thirty vessels of 200 tons burthen, where
originally there was only a cleft or opening, too small to receive a
single vessel.  There are large smelting works for copper erected near
the harbour, the property of the mining companies.

In conjunction with Beaumaris, Holyhead, and Llangefni, this town returns
one member to parliament.  The church, consecrated in 1801, is an elegant
building, erected by the Parys mine company, at an expense of £4000.  The
situation of Amlwch is most salubrious.

The immense treasures contained in the Parys mountain, which is in the
immediate vicinity of Amlwch, and to which the town owes its prosperity,
were unknown and lay neglected until about the year 1765, when one
Frazer, a Scotch miner, came in search of ores, and gave encouragement to
other adventurers.  Though he discovered copper ore by sinking shafts in
the mountain, he was discouraged from proceeding by the influx of water.
Sir N. Bailey, grandfather of the Marquis of Anglesea, who had leased the
lead mines at Penrhyn-dû, in Caernarvonshire, to the Macclesfield
company, bound them to make a spirited effort to work the Parys mine.
This they did, but with so little success, that after some time they sent
positive orders to the agent to discontinue his operations, and discharge
the miners.  The agent, however, fortunately disobeyed the injunction;
and as a last attempt, collected all his mining force to one spot, where
he sunk a shaft, and within seven feet of the surface discovered a body
of ore which was worked with great success for many years.  This happened
on the 2d of March, 1768, whence St. Chad has ever since been a venerated
patron of the Anglesea miners.

In the Parys mountain are two mines: of these, that upon the eastern side
is called the Mona mine, the entire property of the Marquis of Anglesea,
who works it, and also the smelting house at Amlwch.  The Parys mine is
the joint property of the Marquis of Anglesea and Lord Dinorben, and is
now worked by a company.  The stranger, in order to see the mines to
advantage, should first furnish himself with a guide, to avoid danger,
and follow the steps of Mr. Bingley, who thus describes his efforts to
gratify his curiosity:—“Having ascended to the top, I found myself
standing on the verge of a vast and tremendous chasm.  I stept on one of
the stages suspended over the edge of the steep, and the prospect was
dreadful.  The number of caverns at different heights along the sides;
the broken and irregular masses of rock which everywhere presented
themselves; the multitudes of men at work in different parts, and
apparently in the most perilous situations; the motions of the whimsies,
and the raising and lowering of the buckets, to draw out the ore and
rubbish; the noise of picking the ore from the rock, and of hammering the
wadding when it was about to be blasted; with, at intervals, the roaring
of the blasts in different parts of the mine—altogether excited the most
sublime ideas, intermixed, however, with sensations of terror.

“I left this situation, and followed the road that leads into the mine;
and the moment I entered my astonishment was again excited.  The shagged
arches and overhanging rocks, which seemed to threaten annihilation to
any one daring enough to approach them, fixed me almost motionless to the
spot.  The roofs of the work, having in many places fallen in, have left
some of the rudest scenes that the imagination can paint; these, with the
sulphureous fumes from the kilns in which the ore is roasted, gave it to
me a perfect counterpart to Virgil’s entrance into Tartarus.  To look up
from hence and observe the people on the stages, a hundred and fifty feet
above one’s head; to see the immense number of ropes and buckets, most of
them in motion; and to reflect that a single stone, casually thrown from
above, or falling from a bucket, might in a moment destroy a
fellow-creature—a man must have a strong mind not to feel impressed with
most unpleasant sensations.”

The mines are still prolific in their production of copper ore, and
afford a great revenue to their proprietors.—There are also alum works,
and a green vitriol manufactory in the neighbourhood of these mines.  The
principal inns at Amlwch are Ty Mawr and the Castle.  About four miles
distant is Llysdulas, the hospitable seat of Col. Hughes, brother to Lord
Dinorben.



BALA,
(_Merionethshire_.)

Corwen                  12
Dinas Mowddwy           18
Dolgellau               17
Ffestiniog              19
London                 207
Mawr Twrog              22

Bala, or the Outlet of the Lake, is a small neat town consisting of one
long street, with two or three others crossing at right angles, and a
population of about 2500.  There are two good inns here, the White Lion
and the Bull’s Head, the former being an excellent posting house.  This
town is noted for its trade in woollen stockings, woollen comfortables,
and Welsh wigs.  Mr. Pennant remarks, that in his time, on a Saturday,
their market-day, from two to five hundred pounds worth of these goods
were disposed of; but this staple appears to have greatly decreased since
that period.  Still, however, knitting is here an almost universal
employment; and whether you walk in the town, or the country around, you
will scarcely ever meet a female unemployed, even while they carry water,
or other burdens upon their heads.

Near the south-east end of the town is a high artificial mount, called
Tommen-y-Bala, supposed to be of Roman construction: in the summer time
it is usually covered, in a picturesque manner, with knitters of all
ages.  From the summit there is it fine view of Llyn Tegid and the
adjacent mountains, which present a particularly grand and majestic
aspect in this vicinity, successfully rivalling the glories of Snowdonia.
The quarter sessions for the county are held here; and also the spring
assizes.  The town-hall is a plain building, standing in the principal
street.  A chapel-of-ease was erected in 1811 by subscription: it is a
plain structure, with a low tower, surmounted by a spire.  The parish
church is situate at Llanycil, about a mile from the town: the service is
performed there in the morning, and at Bala in the afternoon.  The Rev.
Thomas Charles, Calvinistic Methodist, the founder of the Bible Society,
resided here.  He was a great promoter of education and Sunday schools
amongst his countrymen; and compiled a Welsh biblical dictionary in four
volumes.


Bala Lake,


Llyn Tegid, or Pimblemere, (for this pool has these various names) is
within a quarter of a mile south of the town, and is a fine expanse of
water, with well-cultivated, sloping boundaries, clothed in many parts
with verdant woods.

Bala and it fine lake (says Mr. Roscoe in his “Wanderings through North
Wales,”) have attractions peculiar to themselves.  To appreciate them as
they deserve, the traveller should first ascend the craggy summit of the
neighbouring mountain, and gaze upon the rude glens beyond, through which
the boisterous Twrch rushes in a succession of resounding falls.  It is
by contrasting the wilder and fiercer tracts of the landscape, with its
milder features round the quiet hamlet and lake, that we add fresh zest
to the interchange of feelings ever open to the Cambrian traveller.  Bala
lake is the most extensive in Wales, being nearly four miles in length,
and three quarters of one in breadth, its banks consequently embracing a
circuit of about nine miles.  Its greatest depth is forty feet; and the
water is said to be so pure, that the nicest chemical tests can detect
scarcely any foreign admixture.

Be this as it may, the lake has abundance of pike, perch, trout, eels,
and roach, with shoals of a fish called gwyniad, so named from the
extreme whiteness of its scales.  It is a gregarious fish, often found in
the Alpine lakes, more especially those of Switzerland, and dies soon
after it is taken.  Its weight rarely exceeds four pounds, and its
flavour is by many persons considered rather insipid; a circumstance that
by no means recommends the gallantry of the late Lord Lyttelton, when he
assures his friends that it is so exquisitely delicate as to more than
rival in flavour the lips of the fair maids of Bala themselves.  But,
being so very good, and like the ladies of Bala, perhaps, sensible of
their attractions, these fish have the shrewdness to keep out of harm’s
way, as we are told, by remaining at the bottom of the water, where they
feed on small shells and aquatic plants, from which scarcely any bait
will induce them to emerge; they are, therefore, principally taken by
nets.  The angler may always be certain that, while a cloud rests on
Aran, he may save himself the trouble of fishing in the lake.  In former
times the fishery is stated to have formed part of the possessions
attached to Basingwerk Abbey, but has since fallen into the hands of Sir
Watkin Williams Wynn, who has pitched his tent, in the shape of a neat
sporting-box, quite according to the Irish rule, ‘convanient to the
spot.’

Though now so calm and beautiful,—reflecting all the quiet and clearness
of the heavens upon its breast, as the swallow skimmed its glassy
surface, and the wild-fowl sought their home in its little bays and
creeks,—the aspect of Bala Lake, when the storm is up, and ‘the winter
wild’ puts on his terrors, can assume a very different kind of beauty.
To see it when the autumnal winds ruffle its broad expanse with billows,
or the clouds discharge their contents as fiercely as the torrent from
the hills,—when the drifting rack and snow-storm mingle the last leaves
of the year with the scattered beauty of the meads and gardens, the
observer can no longer recognise the least resemblance in the
characteristics of the two landscapes, the Bala of the opposite seasons.

Upon the north-east side, the water sometimes rises many feet above its
usual level.  When the winds and the rains, as I was informed, ‘meet and
combine the whole of their forces,’ it is a grand sight to see the lake
overshoot its banks, and rush beyond into the valley of old Edeirnion.
Once, in the month of June, 1781, a part of the vicinity is believed to
have been inundated by one of those singular occurrences, the bursting of
an overcharged cloud, called a water-spout, which, however frequently
beheld at sea, seldom visits the land.  It was attended by terrific
lightning and continuous rain, which caused the Twrch—fed by torrents
from the Bwlch-y-Groes hills—to overflow and sweep every thing before it.
The spoils of fields and villages, and even human life, marked the
progress of the flood; and as far as Corwen the rising of the rivers
suddenly burst on the ear of the affrighted people.  The scene round Bala
is recorded by the old inhabitants as heart-rending and terrific.  The
deep and dismal chasm, spanned by the one-arched bridge through which the
stream of the llyn pours its flood down the wildest rocky falls,
exhibited a magnificent sight, swelled by the mountain rains into one
immense volume of foaming cataract, which again bursting from its black
and caverned bed through the wooded glens beyond, rolled its unusual mass
of burdened torrents to join the waters of the Twrch.  Along the course
of the Dee, huge branches, and some of the large forest-trees themselves,
which threw a gloomier shadow over the stormy scene, were uprooted by the
maddening storm and launched into the yawning flood.  The lake rose with
the impulse of the storm, till it assumed the aspect of a wild and
restless sea, keeping stern music with the crashing of the neighbouring
woods and the whistling of the blast, while, drowning the roar of the
torrent, the thunder, ever and anon, startled the ear, and occasional
flashes illuminating the sky exhibited for a moment the lurid and
dreadful scene to view.

Bala is an excellent station for anglers, who are sure of good sport, and
a delightful ramble on the banks of the lake.


The River Dee.


The name of the wizard stream is thought to have been derived from the
Welsh word Dwfr-Dwy, that is, the waters of the two rivers.  Some
centuries ago the Dee was held in superstitious veneration by the
inhabitants of the country, from what were then believed the miraculous
overflowing of its banks at times when there had been no preceding heavy
rains: and from its being believed to have foretold some remarkable
events by changing its channel.  History informs us, that when the
Britons, drawn up in battle-array on its banks, had been prepared to
engage with their Saxon foes, it was their custom first to kiss the
earth, and then for every soldier to drink a small quantity of the water.
The name is certainly not derived, as many have supposed, from _dû_,
black; for, except when tinged by the torrents from the mountain
morasses, its waters are perfectly bright and transparent.  In Spenser’s
description of Caer Gai, the dwelling of old Timon, foster-father of
Arthur, the colour of the Dee is considered very different from black:

          “Lowe in a valley green.
    Under the foot of Rawran mossie o’er,
    From whence the river Dee, as _silver clene_.
    His tempting billows roll with gentle roar.”

That lover of the marvellous, Giraldus Cambrensis, informs as very
gravely, that the river Dee runs through Bala lake, and is discharged at
the bridge near the town without their waters becoming mixed.  He,
doubtless, means to say, that the river might be traced by its appearance
from one end of the lake to the other.  Giraldus has the reputation of
being very credulous.

The Dee, descending from Bala lake, passes under a small bridge, at the
opposite end of which it enters, and from which the channel of the river
is formed.  It then winds along the beautiful vale of Corwen, about four
miles below which it washes the eastern side of Denbighshire, and passing
the bridge at Llangollen, it very soon forms the boundary division
between England and Wales.  Its chief tributaries are the Alwen, which
has its rise in one of the lakes on the western part of the county; the
Ceiriog, which descends from the slate mountains near Chirk; the
Clywedog, which it receives below Bangor Is-y-coed; and the Alun, which
rises in the mountains about Llandegla.  It flows northward to Chester,
Flintshire, and the Irish sea.

Close to Bala, on the Corwen road, is Rhiwlas, the seat of R. W. Price,
Esq.: the house is situated on an eminence, in the midst of extensive
grounds, and forms an interesting object, being profusely decorated with
an evergreen, which likewise adorns the lodge-gates.  A considerable
stream, called the Tryweryn, which runs through the domain, adds much to
the general beauty of this pretty retreat.



BANGOR.
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Abergele                           27
Beaumaris, by the bridge           6½
Caernarvon                          9
Capel Curig                       14½
Conway                            14½
Holyhead                           24
London, by Chester                251
— by Shrewsbury                   237
Plas Newydd                         5
Penmaen Mawr                       8½

Bangor, (from ban côr, the high and beautiful choir,) is a small but
neatly built town, and the most ancient see in the Principality.  Its
present population, 7232.  It has been much improved within the last few
years, especially since the erection of the Menai Bridge, which has
attracted numerous visitors anxious to see one of the finest works of
human skill, though still inconsiderable in comparison with its
importance in ancient times, when it was denominated Bangor Vawr, or the
Great Bangor, probably to distinguish it from Bangor Is-y-coed in
Flintshire.  The town is delightfully situated in a sheltered vale,
between two high ridges of slate rock, at the mouth of the Menai Straits,
of which it commands a beautiful prospect.

Bangor and its environs have the advantage of an almost inexhaustible
diversity of walks, rides, and sea excursions; and in addition to these
highly interesting facilities, several new roads and path-ways have
recently been completed and generously thrown open to the public by the
spirited proprietors of the Pen’r-allt estate, who disposed of that
valuable property to various persons, for the erection of villas,
ornamental marine residences, lodging houses, and public baths.

Garth-point, the eastern extremity of the Pen’r-allt property, a short
distance from the city, where a ferry crosses to the Anglesea shore, is
unrivalled for the sublimity, picturesque beauty, and variety of its
surrounding objects, consisting of an immense expanse of seas, mountains,
lowlands, and plantations.  To the left, on the Anglesea coast, are seen
an extensive sloping wood and a pretty marine cottage, forming part of
the domain of Baron Hill, the splendid mansion of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley,
Bart. M.P.; the town, castle, church, and bay of Beaumaris; and about
five miles further, to the north-east, Puffin or Priestholm Island, with
its tower and semaphore.  To the right, on the Caernarvonshire coast, the
majestic promontory of Great Orme’s Head (abounding with copper ore)
stands boldly forward, apparently isolated, its rugged front protruding
like a rocky fortress into the sea, to guard the entrance to the Menai
Straits; Little Orme’s Head, Conway Bay, Penmaen Bâch, Pen-dyffryn, the
residence of Sir Chas. Smith; Penmaen Mawr, Bryn-y-neuadd, the seat of
John Wynne, Esq.; Prince Llywelyn’s Tower, the Pass, village and church
of Aber, the property of Sir Richard Bulkeley.  To the south-east of
which appear, in pre-eminent height and grandeur, the cloud-capt Carnedd
Llywelyn and Carnedd Dafydd, in “Snowdon’s Alpine range;” Penrhyn Castle,
the superb mansion of the Hon. Col. Douglas Pennant, M.P.; Port Penrhyn
with its numerous shipping; the spacious Penrhyn Arms Inn and pleasure
grounds; Hirael quay and shore; forming altogether, in one expansive
view, a glorious panorama of at least thirty miles in circuit.

At the egress of the river Cegid into the Menai, a commodious harbour has
been formed, called Port Penrhyn, which is capable of admitting and
securing vessels of three hundred tons burden.  The quay is upwards of
three hundred yards long, and an immense tonnage of slates brought by
railway from the quarries about six miles distant, is thence shipped to
all parts of the world.  A neat stone bridge over the river Cegid
connects the quay with the city.  The market at Bangor is held on Friday.

There are several excellent inns, where the traveller will find the best
accommodations, as well as post-chaises and cars, with “good horses and
careful drivers.”  The Penrhyn Arms Hotel, a short distance from the
town, is really a princely establishment, on an extensive and admirable
scale of management.  The Castle, Liverpool Arms, and Royal Oak inns,
have also a good reputation.

The following extract from Dr. Johnson’s diary, when he visited this city
in 1774, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Thrale, will exhibit the progress
of improvement at Bangor in a very advantageous point of light:—“At
evening (says he) the moon shone eminently bright, and our thoughts of
danger (on passing Penmaen Mawr) being now past, the rest of our journey
was very pleasant.  At an hour somewhat late, we came to Bangor, where we
found _a very mean inn_, _and had some difficulty of obtaining a
lodging_.  _I lay in a room where the other bed had two men_.”  What a
contrast to the splendid accommodation now obtainable by tourists at this
popular watering-place!  Within the last twenty years, the population has
been quadrupled, almost all the town built or rebuilt, all the old roads
altered or widened, and new ones formed in the direction of London and
Holyhead.

The facilities for travelling are abundant:—In summer there are
steam-packets everyday to and from Liverpool; and in winter, two or three
every week.  The London mail passes through Bangor each way every day,
also the Chester and Liverpool mail; and besides these, there are daily
coaches to London, Chester, Liverpool, Caernarvon, Pwllheli, and
Barmouth.

Three banks have been recently established at Bangor, one of which is a
branch of the Chester bank of Messrs. Williams and Co., at the Cottage,
the bottom of Waterloo-street; another, a branch of the North and South
Wales bank, in High-street, nearly opposite the Market-place; and the
third, a branch of the National Provincial, in the same street.  By the
Reform Act, Bangor was made a contributory borough in returning a member
of parliament for Caernarvon; W. B. Hughes, Esq. is the present member.


The Cathedral


stands on a low piece of ground near the centre of the town, and
externally has but a humble appearance.  It was founded about 525, by
Daniel, son of Dinothus, abbot of Bangor Is-y-coed, in Flintshire, under
the auspices of Maelgwm Gwynedd, king of Wales, founder of Penmon, patron
of Taliesin, and the most liberal prince of his time, though much abused
by Gildas, who calls him Insularum Draco, because he resisted the
innovations which Pope Gregory wished to introduce into the British
church by means of Augustine the monk, and which gave rise to the
denunciatory ode of Taliesin—

    “Gwa ’r offeiriaid mud.”

The mother church suffered greatly at different periods during the civil
commotion.  It was destroyed in 1071, but soon afterwards rebuilt; and in
1212, when King John invaded the country, having passed Conway, he halted
at Aber, and sent part of his army to burn Bangor.  The city was
destroyed, and Robert of Shrewsbury, then bishop of that see, carried
prisoner to the English camp.  He was afterwards ransomed for two hundred
hawks.  The prelate was, however, suffered to remain here, although
incapable of performing his duty effectively, on account of his ignorance
of the language of the people.  At his death, in accordance with his own
request, he was interred in the market-place at Shrewsbury.  He was the
original compiler of the wonderful legend of St. Winifrede, afterwards
enlarged by Bishop Fleetwood.  In the year 1402, the sacred edifice was
again reduced to ruin by the rage of Owen Glyndwr (who was infuriated by
his wrongs and sufferings), and lay in ruins ninety years, when the choir
was restored by Bishop Deane or Deny.  The body and tower now existing
were built by Bishop Skeffington in 1532.

Some considerable improvements were completed in the cathedral in 1827,
by the outlay of £2000 from the tithes of Llanddinam, in Montgomeryshire,
appropriated by an act of James the Second, 1685, for the repairs of
Bangor cathedral, and £2000 collected in different parts of the united
kingdom, by the praiseworthy and indefatigable exertions of the Rev. J.
H. Cotton, LL.B., then precentor and senior vicar, but now dean, the
whole of which has been expended in the most advantageous manner, under
his superintendence, and will remain a lasting monument of his zeal and
perseverance.  Some years ago, the citizens of Bangor originated a
subscription to this estimable dignitary, in acknowledgment of the many
good services he had rendered to the city and neighbourhood.  The worthy
dean, with his characteristic regard for the fabrics as well as the
doctrines of the church, devoted the sum to the ornamenting the cathedral
with a splendid painted window,—a lasting memorial of the respect and
veneration in which he is held, and of his praiseworthy
disinterestedness.

The bishopric owes the chief of its revenues and immunities to Anian,
bishop of the diocese in the reign of Edward the First, who, being in
high favour with that monarch, and having had the honour of christening
the young prince, born at Caernarvon, afterwards Edward the Second, had,
as a compensation for the temporalities confiscated in the reign of Henry
the Third, various manors, ferries, and grants from the revenues of the
Principality, allotted to the see.

Here was anciently a parish church, built in 975, by king Edgar, situated
about 400 yards north-east of the cathedral, and called Llanvair Edward
Vrenin.  Bishop Skeffington, in Henry the Eighth’s time, caused it to be
taken down, and repaired the present church with the materials.  Here,
likewise, near the sea shore, Tudor ab Gronwy, of Penmynydd and Tre’r
Castell, in Anglesea, founded a house of Black Friars, and was interred
there in 1311.  In an old monody to this individual are the following
lines:—

    For Tudor dead, the tears incessant flow,
    And Bangor suffers in the general woe.

The free school was founded in 1557, by Dr. Jeffrey Glynn, upon the site
of this building.  It has long enjoyed reputation as a training seminary
for Oxford, Cambridge, and Trinity College, Dublin.  The environs are
well cultivated and picturesque, and are interspersed with handsome
residences, amongst which is that of the bishop’s palace.

On the summit of a steep rock, opposite Friars’ School, are to be traced
the remains of an ancient castle, supposed to have been built by Hugh
Lupus, Earl of Chester, in the reign of Henry the Second.  Several pieces
of scoria have been found on the spot, which leave no doubt that arrows
have been manufactured there at some very distant period.  On the extreme
height of the opposite hill, at the back of Friars’ School, are the
remains of a British encampment, on an extensive scale, of more ancient
date than the preceding.  These interesting objects will be found, on
investigation, well worthy the notice of the antiquary.  It is
conjectured, that the British encampment alluded to, communicated, to the
southward, with Dinas Dinorwic, near Llandeiniolen, as that renowned
British station is distinctly seen from this spot; and also with another
to the east, called Braich-y-Ddinas, situate on the summit of Penmaen
Mawr.

An elegant Roman Catholic chapel has recently been erected in the suburbs
of the city, on the Caernarvon road.

Pleasant excursions may be made from Bangor to Conway, Caernarvon,
Beaumaris, Amlwch, Plâs Newydd, Aber, Port Penrhyn, Priestholm or Puffin
Island, Penrhyn Castle, the Llandegai slate quarries, and Snowdon.  In
fact, the locality abounds with objects of natural beauty and historical
interest.


Great Suspension Bridge.


Within about two miles from Bangor, near the spot where the old ferry
was, stands that stupendous monument of human skill, the MENAI BRIDGE.

The erection of this bridge was for several years in contemplation before
it was finally determined upon.  In 1810 and 1811, several plans were
submitted to a committee of the House of Commons, and particularly one in
the latter year, by Mr. Telford, proposing a bridge of cast iron, the
expense of which was estimated at £127,000; but the difficulty of fixing
a proper centring, owing to the rocky bottom of the channel, and the
depth and rapidity of the tide-way, caused this project to be abandoned.
In 1818, a new plan was presented by the same engineer, for a bridge on
the suspension principle.  In developing this plan, Mr. Telford remarks,
“The iron hanging bridge over the Menai to consist of one opening of 560
feet between the points of suspension; in addition to which there are to
be seven arches, four on the coast of Anglesea, and three on that of
Caernarvonshire, each 60 feet in the span, making the total length of the
bridge 910 feet; the height above the level of high water line to be 100
feet.  The road-way will embrace two carriage ways, each twelve feet in
breadth, with a foot-path of four feet between them.  The whole is to be
suspended from four lines of strong iron cables, by perpendicular iron
rods placed five feet apart, and these rods will support the road-way
framing.  The suspending power is calculated at 2016 tons, and the weight
to be suspended, exclusive of the cables, is 343 tons, leaving a
disposable power of 1674 tons.

“The four sides of the road-ways will be made of framed iron work, firmly
bound together for seven feet in height, and there will be a similar work
for five feet in depth below the cables.  The weight of the whole bridge
between the points of suspension will be 489 tons.  The abutments will
consist of the masonry, comprising the extreme stone-work, the two piers,
and the seven arches before mentioned: each of the two piers will be 60
feet by 40½ wide at high water mark, having a foundation of rock.  Upon
the summit of the two main piers, will be erected a frame of cast-iron
work, of a pyramidal form, for the purpose of raising the cables from
which the bridge is to be suspended.”  The probable cost of erecting this
structure Mr. Telford estimated at £60,000, or, allowing for any
unforeseen charges, at most £70,000, about one-fourth of the calculated
expense of the cast-iron bridge on the old plan.

The following particulars we extract from Dr. Pring’s Narrative of the
Grand Menai Suspension Bridge, published immediately on its completion.
“The first stone of this national bridge was laid without any ceremony on
the 10th August, 1820, by Mr. Provis, resident engineer.  On the 26th
April, 1825, the first chain of this stupendous work was thrown over the
straits of Menai, in the presence of an immense concourse of people.  At
half-past two o’clock, it then being about half flood tide, the raft
prepared for the occasion, stationed on the Caernarvonshire side, near
Treborth mill, which supported the part of the chain intended to be drawn
over, began to move gradually from its moorings, towed by four boats,
with the assistance of the tide, to the centre of the river, between the
two grand piers.  When the raft was adjusted, and brought to its ultimate
situation, it was made fast to several buoys, anchored in the channel for
that purpose.  A part of the chain, pending from the apex of the
suspending pier on the Caernarvonshire side down nearly to high-water
mark, was then made fast by a bolt, to the part of the chain laying on
the raft; which operation was completed in ten minutes.

“The next process was the fastening of the other extremity of the chain
on the raft to two blocks of immense size and power, for the purpose of
hoisting it up to its intended station, the apex of the suspension pier
on the Anglesea side.  When the blocks were made secure to the chain
(comprising 25 tons weight of iron), two capstans, and also, two
preventive capstans, commenced working, each capstan being propelled by
thirty-two men.  To preserve an equal tenison in the rotatory evolutions
of the two principal capstans, two fifers played several enlivening
tunes, to keep the men regular in their steps, for which purpose they had
been previously trained.  At this critical and interesting juncture, the
attention of every one present seemed rivetted to the novel spectacle:
the chain rose majestically, and the gratifying sight was
enthusiastically enjoyed by all present in ‘breathless silence!’  At ten
minutes before five o’clock, the final bolt was fixed, which completed
the whole line of chain, and the happy event was hailed by the hearty
acclamations of the spectators.  Not the least accident, delay, or
failure, occurred in any department during the whole of the operation.
From the moving of the raft to the uniting of the chain, only two hours
and twenty-five minutes transpired.  Upon the completion of the chain,
three of the workmen passed along its upper surface, which forms a
curvature of 590 feet; the versed sine of the arch is 43 feet.  The
sixteenth chain, completing the whole line of suspension, was curried
over on the 9th of July following.

“The general opening of the bridge took place on Monday, January 30th,
1826.  The royal London and Holyhead mail coach, carrying the London
mail-bag for Dublin, passed over at one o’clock, A.M. and the first
carriage that passed was that of Augustus Elliott Fuller, Esq., one of
the commissioners, drawn by four beautiful greys; the first stage coach
was the Pilot, a Bangor and Caernarvon day coach; the first London stage
coach was the Oxonian.  These were followed by the carriage of Sir David
Erskine, Bart., late proprietor of the ferry, drawn by four elegant
greys, decorated with ribbons, and by several gentlemen’s carriages,
landaus, gigs, cars, &c. and a long train of horsemen.  Numerous flags
were flying; and cannons, stationed on each side of the bridge, were
discharged at intervals during the day.

“The dimensions of the bridge are as follows:—The extreme length of the
chain, from the fastenings in the rock, is about 1715 feet; the height of
the road-way from high water line, is 100 feet; each of the seven small
piers from high water line to the spring of the arches, is 65 feet; the
span of each arch is 52½ feet.  Each of the suspending piers is 53 feet
above the road; the roads on the bridge consist of two carriage-ways of
12 feet each, with a foot-path of four feet in the centre; the length of
the suspended part of the road from pier to pier is 553 feet; the
carriage-road passes through two arches in the suspending piers, of the
width of 9 feet by 15 feet in height to the spring of the arches.  To
counteract the contraction and expansion of the iron from the effects of
the change of the atmosphere, a set of rollers are placed under cast-iron
saddles on the top of the suspending piers where the chains rest; the
vertical rods an inch square, suspended from the chains, support the
sleepers for the flooring of the road-way, the rods being placed 5 feet
from each other.  The chains, sixteen in number, consist of five bars
each; length of the bars 10 feet, width 3 inches by 1 inch, with six
connecting lengths at each joint, 1 foot 4 inches by 8 inches, and 1 inch
thick, secured by two bolts at each joint, each bolt weighing about 50
pounds; and the total number of the bars in the cross-section of the
chain is 80.  The total weight of iron-work is 4,373,281 pounds.”

The pen and pencil of genius have frequently been employed to delineate
the Menai Bridge, and whatever difference of taste may have prevailed in
determining the character of the various sketches, all writers have been
unanimous in their admiration of the intellect which could devise, and
the skill which could erect this magnificent and astonishing structure.
The approach by water has been thus described:—“When, on entering the
straits, the bridge is first seen suspended as it were in mid air, and
confining the view of the fertile and richly wooded shores, it seems more
like a light ornament than a massy bridge, and shews little of the
strength and solidity which it really possesses.  But as we approached it
nearer, whilst it still retained its light and elegant appearance, the
stupendous size and immensity of the work struck us with awe; and when we
saw that a brig, with every stick standing, had just passed under it—that
a coach going over it appeared not larger than a child’s toy—and that
foot passengers upon it looked like pigmies, the vastness of its
proportions was by contrast fully apparent.”

Another tourist gives the subjoined outline, while surveying the
attractive object on the spot:—“Having landed by means of boats on the
Anglesea side, we proceeded to the bridge, the visiting of which is a new
era in the lives of those who have not before had that pleasure, and is a
renewed luxury to those who have seen it again and again.  Our party
walked over the bridge slowly, because there was something to be admired
at every step;—the effect of a passing carriage; the vibration caused
even by a hand applied to the suspending rods; the depth to the level of
the water; the fine view of the straits in both directions; the lofty
pillar erected in honour of the Marquis of Anglesea; the diminutive
appearance of persons on the shore; the excellence and strength of the
workmanship; the beauty of the arches over the road through the
suspension piers, and the echo in them; all conspired to delight and to
detain us.  Many of our party then went down the steep bank to the foot
of the bridge, from which point, certainly, the best view is to be had of
the whole structure, inasmuch as by being in contact, as it were, with
its proportions on _terra firma_, a better idea can be formed of its
real, and indeed wonderful dimensions.  We actually lingered about the
spot careless of time, or of aught but the scene we were contemplating.”

From the Suspension Bridge to Beaumaris, the road is exquisitely
beautiful: it follows the line of the winding and indented shore of the
Menai: now commanding an extensive view of the noble bay, and its lofty
encircling mountains—now entering the woods of Baron Hill, scarcely
protected from the precipice, the base of which is washed by the waves,
which are heard chafing against the rock below—again it emerges from the
woods, and the whole glorious panorama bursts on the sight: the beautiful
town of Beaumaris lying at your feet, whilst the Ormeshead, Penmaen Mawr,
the Nant Francon mountains, and the more distant range of Snowdonia, with
Penrhyn Castle and Bangor, terminating with nature’s great rival, the
Bridge, form a prospect of remarkable beauty and sublimity.

The Menai Straits, which separate Anglesea from the main land, although
bearing the appearance of a river, are formed by an arm of the sea; the
navigation of which is peculiarly dangerous at particular times of the
tide, and in stormy weather.  At each extremity, during the flood, it has
a double current, from the concussion of which, termed Pwll Ceris, it is
perilous to encounter it; and so tremendous are the storms with which the
straits are occasionally disturbed, that before the erection of the Menai
Bridge, a tempestuous day has been sufficient to suspend the intercourse
of England with Ireland, the high road to which, _via_ Holyhead, lies
through Anglesea.  Within the range of the coast, a distance of about
fifteen miles, there are six ferries; the first of which, to the south,
is Aber-Menai, nearly opposite Caernarvon, and the sixth, and widest at
high water, is between the village of Aber and Beaumaris.

Nicholson, in his Cambrian Guide, says, “There appears but little doubt
of Anglesea having been once connected with the main land, as evident
traces of an isthmus are discernible near Porthaethwy ferry; where a
dangerous line of rocks nearly crosses the channel, and causes such
eddies at the first flowing of the tide, that the contending currents of
the Menai seem here to struggle for superiority.  This isthmus once
destroyed, and a channel formed, it has been the work of ages, by the
force of spring tides and storms, gradually to deepen and enlarge the
opening.”  In support of this hypothesis, the author of Beaumaris Bay
quotes the following historical facts:—“In the year 61, the Roman
infantry, under Suetonius, crossed the Menai on a bridge of boats, to
Pant-yr-Ysgraffiau (the inlet of the skiffs) under Porthamael, while the
cavalry forded it below Llanidan.  Edward the First also crossed the
strait in the same manner at Moel-y-don, but suffered severely from an
unfortunate attack, on the return of the tide; several of his leading
warriors now lying in the chapel of the Friary, near Beaumaris.”


Railway Bridge across the Menai.


In the original prospectus for the construction of the Chester and
Holyhead railway, it was proposed to carry the line across the suspension
bridge which has just been described; the engines to be detached from the
trains at each end of the bridge, and the carriages to be conveyed over
by horses.  The government very properly objected to an arrangement which
would have been in all respects a great public inconvenience.  It was
then proposed to cross the Straits in the vicinity of the Britannia rock,
a little to the southward of the suspension bridge, by a bridge of two
cast-iron arches supported on piers of masonry.  This project was opposed
by the trustees of the Caernarvon harbour, as a dangerous interference
with the free navigation of the Straits, which had always been of a
difficult and intricate character.  A long and anxious investigation of
this matter ended in a proposal by Mr. Robert Stephenson, the eminent
engineer to the railway company, to construct a mode of transit, which
should be perfectly unobjectionable.  In May, 1845, that gentleman
explained to a committee of the House of Commons, to whom the Chester and
Holyhead Railway Bill had been referred, that the engineers sent down by
the Board of Admiralty to Bangor having reported that the proposed
two-arched bridge would be injurious to the navigation, and recommended
one of a much greater width, and of a flat surface, without any arch; he
(Mr. Stephenson) had been under the necessity of preparing himself to
carry out those suggestions.  He was apprehensive that owing to the
expansion and contraction of iron, in a position where the ends, as in an
arch, are jammed down on immovable piers of masonry, the fabric of an
iron arch of such great width might not be free from danger; and a
suspension bridge would not be safely available as a railway for
locomotive engines.  He had therefore come to the conclusion, that a tube
or tunnel, of wrought iron, large enough for the passage of trains, would
be the most feasible plan, embracing safety for the navigation, and
creating no delay to the transit of the railway carriages over the
straits.  The tube would be 900 feet in length, supported at the centre
in a pier of masonry, about 100 feet high, erected on the Britannia rock.
The ends would not be jammed, as in the case of an arch, but left free,
so as to admit of expansion in the metal arising from the change of
temperature.  The practicability and safety of this novelty in
engineering science, were attested by several witnesses of competent
skill and ability; and the plan was ultimately sanctioned by Parliament.
The pier of masonry to be erected on the Britannia rock, which lies about
mid-way across the stream, is to have four sides, each of 50 feet width;
the water-way on each side of the pier to be 450 feet wide; the height
and shape of the Menai suspension bridge to be maintained in the
construction of the proposed tunnel, with the same clear headway for the
free passage of vessels navigating the straits.  At a meeting of the
Chester and Holyhead Railway Company, in August 1845, the report
presented by the board of management contained the following passages:—

    “With reference to the magnitude, as well as the novelty of the work,
    your directors deemed it essential that the plan of crossing the
    Menai Straits, proposed by Mr. Stephenson, the company’s engineer,
    should be subjected to the test of experiments.  Those experiments
    have been in progress for some time, and are now nearly completed.
    The results as at present shewn are extremely satisfactory,
    confirming most strongly the soundness of the principle, and giving
    the most perfect confidence to your directors, with regard to the
    proposed stupendous structure, that its erection will be easy, and
    that its security will be complete and lasting.  So satisfied is Mr.
    Stephenson with the comparative strength, durability, and economy of
    this new method of bridge-building, that he purposes adopting it also
    for the crossing of the river at Conway.”

In the spring of 1846, contracts for the erection of this novel bridge
over the Menai were entered into; the works are now in progress; and this
singular triumph of engineering skill will afford another extraordinary
instance of the achievements of railway enterprise; and add another to
the many wonders of nature and art, which abound throughout this
attractive district of the Principality.


Penrhyn Castle,


The magnificent seat of the Hon. E. Douglas Pennant, M.P. for
Caernarvonshire, is within an easy walk of Bangor.  The present castle is
said to have been built on the site of a palace of Roderic Molwynog,
prince of Wales, who began his reign in 720, and long continued in
possession of the Welsh sovereigns.  This ancient demesne has been a
favourite subject of the British muse from the earliest times.

    Abode of native chiefs, of bards the theme,
    Here princely Penrhyn soars above the stream,
    And phœnix-like, in rising splendour drest,
    Shews on its wide domain a regal crest;
    Here Cambria opes her tomes of other days,
    And with maternal pride, the page displays—
    Dwells on the glorious list, and loves to trace
    From Britain’s genuine kings—her noblest race.

The estate came into the family of Pennant, partly by the purchase of the
late Lord Penrhyn’s father (John Pennant, Esq.), and partly by his own
marriage with Anne Susannah, daughter and sole heiress of the
late-General Warburton, of Winnington, in Cheshire.  By this matrimonial
compact, the two moieties, which had for some time been divided, became
united: and his lordship having no issue, the immense estates devolved
upon the late George Hay Dawkins Pennant, Esq., whose daughter married
the present respected possessor.  The lady with whose hand so wealthy a
dowry was bestowed, died in the year 1842, and in January, 1846, the Hon.
E. D. Pennant married Lady Louisa Fitzroy, the accomplished daughter of
the Duke and Duchess of Grafton.  Lord Penrhyn made very considerable
alterations in the mansion; and his immediate successor, whose public
spirit well accorded with that of his lordship, and whose generous
munificence endeared him to the surrounding district, was long engaged in
rebuilding it, in a magnificent style, so as to render it one of the most
complete edifices in the kingdom.  It is erected in the boldest style of
castellated architecture, of Mona marble, and displays a magnificent
range of buildings, crowned with lofty towers, of which five are
circular; the keep, and another of the principal towers are square, with
angular turrets.  The internal decorations correspond with the grandeur
of the exterior; the mantle-pieces and other ornaments being made of Mona
marble, which admits of a very high polish: the furniture is also
extremely elegant.  The situation is most picturesque and imposing, and
commands a glorious, extensive, and diversified prospect of marine and
mountain scenery.  There are several lodges forming entrances to the
park, all elegant in their design, and lofty in their elevation; the
principal one, which is near the junction of the London and Chester
roads, being a stately and beautiful specimen of the architecture of the
whole.  A grand massive substantial gateway, on a corresponding plan, has
been completed; together with a handsome park wall, thirteen feet high,
and seven miles in circuit.

There is an elegant chapel near the castle, for the accommodation of the
family; and on the beach are handsome and commodious hot and cold baths.
The stables are upon a noble and extensive scale.  The building has a
handsome façade, fronted with patent slate, and the pilasters which
divide the stalls, as well as the mangers, are of the same material.
Indeed, this very valuable article appears to be converted, on the
Penrhyn demesne, to every possible use.  The park is fenced with narrow
upright slate slabs, cut in imitation of palisadoes, and fixed by pins to
oaken railings, which find their support in posts formed of cubic slate.

In this mansion is still preserved a hirlas, or drinking horn of the
hero, Piers Gruffydd, perhaps the only elegant specimen of that kind of
utensil, elucidatory of ancient manners, at present existing.  It is a
large bugle, of an ox’s horn, ornamented with enchased silver, and
suspended by a chain of the same metal, having the initials of his own
name and family engraved at the end.  Piers Gruffydd owned Penrhyn estate
in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and joined the fleet of Sir Francis
Drake, in a vessel which he purchased and equipped at his own cost.  He
was afterwards in the gallant action with the Spanish Armada.  In the
royal court of Cambria, there were legally three sorts of horns for the
purpose of public or private libations.  The first was _y corn ydd yuo y
brenin_, or the one solely appropriated to the king’s use; second, _corn
cyweithas_, by which the domestics of the palace were summoned to duty;
and third, corn _y pencynydd_, committed to the custody of the chief
huntsman.  On grand occasions, the domestics of the palace were permitted
to drink out of the sovereign’s horn; and the chamberlain or high
steward, on such occasions, furnished handsome potations of the generous
metheglin.  The contents of the horn at these times assumed the name of
the sacred potion, similar to the _wassail_ bowl, or the apostle’s cup,
in use among the Saxons.  Ulphus, when he conveyed certain lands to the
church at York, is said to have quaffed off the contents of such a
vessel, drinking a health, _Deo et sancto Petro_ (to God and St. Peter).
On festive days, the imperative custom was to empty the horn at one tip,
and instantly blow it, as a testimony that it had been thoroughly
drained.

The improvements made by the late Lord Penrhyn in this very interesting
parish and its flourishing neighbourhood were most comprehensive and
important.  The aspect of the country has, in fact, been thoroughly
changed; and profitable employment found for thousands of the working
population.  About forty years ago, this part of the country bore a most
wild, barren, and neglected appearance; but it is now covered with
handsome villas, well-built farm-houses, neat cottages, rich meadows,
well-cultivated fields, and flourishing plantations; bridges have been
built, new roads made, bogs and swampy grounds drained and cultivated,
neat fences raised, and barren rocks covered with woods.


Slate Quarries.


The slate quarries at Cae Braich-y-Cefn (about six from Bangor), in the
vicinity of Nant Francon, the most considerable in Wales, are the
property of the family of Penrhyn Castle.  The rock has been opened at
vast expense, and the quarries are worked with great judgment and
enterprise.  There are more than 2000 persons continually employed; and
it is computed that about two hundred tons of slates are daily conveyed
down to Port Penrhyn, whence they are exported to various parts of the
kingdom, to Ireland, and to America.  These quarries were discovered so
far back as the time of Queen Elizabeth.  In 1740 the slates were all of
one size, and very small.  But when Lord Penrhyn took the quarries into
his own hands, about 1782, his lordship cleared the rubbish, which had
been accumulating for ages, and opened these quarries in a judicious and
scientific manner.  His lordship also constructed an iron railway from
the quarries to Port Penrhyn, a distance of six miles, which is said to
have cost £170,000.  The weekly wages now paid to the workmen engaged in
these quarries amount to about £1700.

On the arrival of a visitor, he should, if possible, obtain permission to
accompany one of the overlookers of the works in his round, rather than
trust to the casual guidance of any idler who may be found lurking about
with the intention to profer assistance; as the sole object of the latter
is to procure payment, without giving himself much trouble in pointing
out the wonders of the place.  Should he be successful, the intelligent
and communicative spirit of his guide will amply repay the difficulty he
may have experienced in finding him.

He will be conducted to every ledge of the mountain, up an inclined
plane, till he reaches the summit, and will have an opportunity of seeing
the whole process of the slate manufacture.  In one place he will
discover the workmen aloft, suspended by ropes against the precipitous
side of the rock, busily employed in splitting down every projecting
shelf of the blue steganium; in another, persons employed in the
laborious occupation of boring for the purpose of filling the orifice
with gunpowder, to rend the rock from the immense mass to which it is
attached; others occupied in removing the rubbish, of which so many
years’ labour has produced a wonderful accumulation; and numbers in
splitting the detached masses, and cutting them into a variety of sizes,
denominated duchesses, countesses, ladies, &c. which names were bestowed
by General Warburton about the year 1765.  This process is executed with
astonishing rapidity.  Then may be heard the alarum shout, betokening
that a fusee is lighted and will soon explode, warning those employed in
the vicinity to secure themselves from danger; and in a few moments, the
explosion itself rattles through the extensive levels with terrific
grandeur.  It cannot be expected that accidents amongst the workmen are
of rare occurrence; on the contrary, they too frequently happen, for
scarce a week passes without some poor fellows meeting with severe bodily
injury; but this is solely attributed to their own negligence of the
proper precaution.

Portions of the mountain are farmed by individuals, who pay a price
consonant with the value or quality of the substratum, and employ workmen
to remove and fit it for exportation; when they receive so much per
thousand, in the same ratio, for their labour.  There is a strong spring
of water at the top of the mountain, which is conveyed by a large wooden
pipe to the bottom, and there rendered serviceable in turning an immense
cutting mill.  A few hundred yards distant, also, are several mills of
this description, where large pieces of rock are cut into grave-stones,
and into the requisite sizes for roofing houses, and for the use of
schools, &c.

St. Ann’s chapel, near the quarries, was erected and liberally endowed by
the late Lord Penrhyn; and Lady Penrhyn left a sum for an organ, and a
suitable stipend for the organist.—Within a short distance of the slate
quarries is the charming cottage of the late Lady Penrhyn, called


Ogwen Bank.


It is now used by Mr. Pennant’s family as an occasional resort on paying
a morning visit to the quarries, or other objects of curiosity in the
neighbourhood.  The style is florid Gothic, and shows great taste in the
design.  The centre contains an elegant room, the front of it forming a
segment of a circle; the wings contain a coach house and stabling.  Over
the river Ogwen is a bridge corresponding with the architecture of the
house.  This beautiful cottage is hid from the road by the trees and
plantation; Llwyd calls it “the Eden of the Mountains.”

Before quitting this remarkably interesting vicinity, we take leave to
quote the following description from the graphic pen of Miss Costello:—

    “From Bangor the lofty towers and turrets of Penrhyn Castle are
    conspicuous in the scenery, and have a very grand and imposing
    appearance, more so than any modern erection of the kind I ever saw.
    The building stands on a commanding height, and from its elevation
    has a magnificent view of Beaumaris Bay, and all the wide sweep of
    the sea, Puffin or Priestholm Island and a great part of Anglesea,
    the fine bold rock of the Great Orme’s Head, said to have once been
    dedicated to Serpent worship, and the range of the Caernarvonshire
    mountains.

    “So stately, so massive, and so stupendous is this castle, that it
    scarcely seems the work of a modern architect; and if there had been
    more simplicity observed in its construction, it might well pass for
    a genuine Roman castle.  The enormous profusion of ornament with
    which the doors, windows, staircases, halls, and ceilings are
    covered, betray the effort made to render that complete which would
    have been more so with less pains.  The involved pillars, the
    redundant zigzags, the countless grotesque heads, of all sizes,
    grinning from all heights, the groves of slender columns, the
    circular arches, the semi-pointed arcades, form a maze of
    architecture such as never could have before, in any age, appeared on
    one spot.

    “To wander through the wondrous halls of Penrhyn is like struggling
    along in a bewildered dream, occasioned by having studied some
    elaborate work on the early buildings of the Saxons and Normans.  The
    eyes are dazzled and the mind confused with the quick succession of
    astonishing forms; but the result is rather wonder at the imagination
    or close copying of the artist, and at the enormous wealth which
    could repay such an exertion of skill, than admiration of the beauty
    created.  Mona marble and fine stone furnish materials for all these
    sculptured treasures, and slate enters into much of the adornment;
    for close by are the famous slate-quarries, which have produced the
    enormous sums expended on this erection.  In order to shew what can
    be done with slate, various articles of furniture are placed in the
    rooms occupying the places usually filled by carved wood and marble;
    chimney-pieces and tables of polished slate are seen, but the great
    triumph is a bedstead, beautifully carved, which, though far from
    elegant, is yet exceedingly curious.

    “The library and drawing-rooms are very fine, and have even a
    comfortable appearance: all the house is gorgeously decorated, and
    all its laboured splendour announces such immense riches, that it
    seems as though the gnomes who work gold and silver in the
    neighbouring hills had all been made slaves of some potent lamp or
    ring, and had worked incessantly for years in the construction and
    adornment of the most gigantic mass of architecture that ever was
    beheld.  There are, however, very few specimens of the higher order
    of art; a few portraits are to be found in one room, which are
    curious.  In particular I was struck with a likeness of the
    celebrated Anne Clifford, of Cumberland, when a child: she is dressed
    in a stiff black dress, all over buttons and ornaments, and from
    under her arm peeps a hideous little dog.  As, in her memoirs, she
    dwells a good deal on her own beauty, one cannot but smile at this
    comment on her vanity, for, unless the artist did her great
    injustice, she must have been a singularly ugly child.  Two portraits
    of the Countess of Derby are remarkable: one has a child’s doll lying
    on a table near her, and in the other she is represented holding a
    feather fan, and covered and half smothered with elaborate ruffs
    which seem to bristle up in every part of her attire.

    “The famous hirlas horn, belonging to an ancient Cambrian prince, the
    treasure of the castle, we had not an opportunity of seeing, as we
    found it was carefully locked up from public view.  It held the same
    place as the Saxon wassail bowl, and it was customary that those who
    had the honour of drinking from it should empty the horn at one
    draught, and then blow it, to prove that they had performed the feat
    expected of them.  One of the most picturesque objects on the way to
    the famous slate quarries, is the little mill of Coet Mor, whose
    wheel is turned by a rushing stream breaking wildly over heaps of
    rocks.

    “The slate quarries of Penrhyn are situated near Nant Ffrancon, at a
    spot called Cae Braich-y-Cefn, and are exceedingly curious, and even
    picturesque.  We were conducted over them by a very loquacious
    Irishman, the only person of his nation employed in the works, all
    the others being Welsh.

    “Most of these places, where enormous labour produces enormous
    wealth, are to me displeasing to contemplate; but there is nothing
    here that conveys an idea of over-tasked workmen, no horrible
    underground toil and dark dungeon-like caves, where human creatures
    are condemned, like souls in penance for some hideous crime, to drag
    heavy weights and chains through frightful chasms, and delve and dig
    for ore in spaces not large enough for them to stand upright; here
    are no deadly vapours, no fatal gases mortal to humanity, all is wide
    and open in the pure light of day, high, and broad, and healthy.  The
    mountain is cut into ridges of slate, and here and there the
    projecting edges have formed themselves into graceful shapes: in the
    very centre of the quarry rises a beautiful conical pillar of slate
    which the admiration of the workmen has spared, now that their
    labours have brought it to the shape which it bears.  It is a great
    ornament to the area, and it is to be regretted that in time it must
    fall, as the slate of which it is composed happens to be of the
    purest kind.  The huts of the workmen scattered over the quarry have
    a singular effect, and the wild aspect of the men accords well with
    their abodes.  The thundering sound produced by the occasional
    blasting of the rock is very grand, as it rolls and echoes amongst
    the caves, and along the heights; and the grey masses glowing in the
    sun, and reflecting the sky through their rents, have an imposing
    aspect.”

In July, 1844, the King of Saxony made a tour through England and Wales;
a narrative of which, written by His Majesty’s Physician, Dr. Carus, has
been published in the present year (1846).  From that journal of the
royal travels, we extract the subjoined passages—which may serve to show
the impressions made upon the mind of an intelligent though somewhat
prejudiced foreigner, by the more striking objects of interest in this
locality.

    “As the road approaches Bangor, it runs near the sea, and brings us
    close to the end of one of the most extraordinary structures of
    modern times—the vast iron suspension bridge which forms the junction
    between the mainland and the island, universally known and celebrated
    as the Menai Bridge.

    “The drivers were ordered to stop, and we dismounted, in order to
    pass over and examine this splendid work, and endeavour to gain as
    accurate an idea as possible of its nature and size.  The coasts of
    Wales and Anglesea at both sides of the strait, are rocky, and about
    100 feet high, and the breadth of the channel by which they are
    separated, is about 1600 feet.  The object was to connect the two
    coasts by a bridge, and it has been fully attained.  Two very stout
    columns of solid masonry are built in the water, one on each side,
    over the summits of which are stretched the immense chains, from
    which the bridge itself is suspended.  The channel between the
    columns is about 600 feet wide, and over this stretches the
    horizontal line of the road-way, which is supported and made fast by
    means of about 800 strong iron rods.  Each of the sixteen chains
    which constitute the suspending power, is stated to be 1714 feet
    long, and consists of large massive links, joined and bound together
    by strong iron bolts.  These chains pass over the tops of the
    supporting columns, on moveable iron rollers of great strength, and
    are thus in a condition readily to accommodate themselves to the
    changes of temperature, without risk.  The greatest difference in
    length between the strongest summer heat and most intense winter
    cold, is said to amount to sixteen inches.  The work was begun under
    the direction of Mr. Telford, in the year 1819, and finished in 1826.
    Such is the general idea of the whole structure.  When seen from the
    side, it is very difficult immediately to form a notion of the
    magnitude of the work; and besides, the simplicity of the outline
    gives at first an impression of very moderate extent.  The feeling is
    very much the same as that with which strangers are impressed on the
    first view of St. Peter’s in Rome.  They find it extremely difficult
    to believe that a structure of such magnitude is before them.  And as
    the banks on both sides are very uniform, it requires to be compared
    with some other object—such as that of a large ship sailing through
    beneath, in order to gain a correct notion of its real magnitude.  On
    viewing the bridge, and passing over it, through its long uniform
    alleys of ever-recurring iron rods, another observation forced itself
    upon my mind.  This immense work, which in all its parts is regulated
    by the principle of utility, is totally deficient in all the charms
    of beauty.  It cuts the landscape like a black uniform line, concave
    on one side, and perfectly horizontal on the other; and when viewed
    closely, the columns by which the bridge is supported, are wholly
    destitute of every description of architectural or sculptural
    ornament.  Those perpetually recurring iron rods, which follow one
    another in monotonous rows, only serve to suggest the feeling of
    despair to which a painter must be reduced in any attempt to
    delineate the structure, and to give any thing like an accurate
    drawing of this tedious iron lattice-road.  True, it may be very
    difficult to combine the demands of taste with the strict principles
    of utility in such an undertaking, where the grand object is
    strength.  There is, properly speaking, a genuine English, dry,
    pedantic character usually exhibited in such structures as this.
    And, after all, what style should art here apply in order to
    introduce the charms of beauty into a work of this character?
    Neither the Egyptian nor Grecian style is at all appropriate to works
    in iron—the Gothic is quite as little applicable to such a
    purpose—and I have already remarked that in addition to these three,
    there can be as little pretension to introduce a fourth, really
    distinct from them, as to add a new kingdom to those of the
    recognised mineral, animal, and vegetable ones.  This makes the task
    of the architect a very difficult one to accomplish.  It is for them
    to see how the difficulty is to be met.

    “Having passed over the bridge to the Anglesea side, we descended to
    the shore, and took a boat, in order to have a view of this immense
    structure from beneath.  By far the clearest idea of the vastness of
    the work is thus obtained, by viewing it from the green sea, which
    flows beneath with a gentle southerly current; the true magnitude and
    proportions of the bridge are then most deeply impressed upon the
    mind; but even here, no idea of beauty is suggested.  Other bridges,
    with their various arches and ornamental buttresses, may, and
    frequently do present objects of great beauty to the eye.  This,
    however, is, and must always remain, a great _mathematical figure_.

    “After having thus examined the bridge from all parts of the river,
    we descended into the vast cavern on the Anglesea side, in which the
    ends of the chains are made fast in the rocks far under ground.  The
    whole is planned with great ingenuity and skill.  The rock, which
    forms the resisting power, is armed, as it were, with huge masses of
    iron, containing deep mortices, into which the bolts that bind the
    ends of the chains are made fast.

    “In this manner, therefore, the sixteen powerful chains are fastened
    in the deep rocks on both sides of the strait; and assuredly, no
    human power or weight can be well conceived sufficient to tear them
    from the depth in which they are anchored.  Even the long Macadamized
    bridge itself presents such a degree of stability, as to be very
    little moved by the carriages which pass over its surface.”

                                 * * * *

    “On the morning of the 13th, (July, 1844,) the birthday of my dear
    mother, I enjoyed a beautiful view of the little port of Bangor, from
    the garden terrace of the hotel, from which a view is obtained of the
    northern opening of the Menai Strait, of the bay of Beaumaris, and
    the more distant mountains of Wales.  The weather, too, was tolerably
    fine in the morning; but at the time of our departure it had become
    cloudy, and it was raining hard when we arrived at the remarkable and
    extensive Penrhyn slate quarries, which are of great importance to
    the whole of Wales.  They are situated about six miles to the N.E. of
    Bangor, on the slope of the hill, and have been particularly rich and
    productive for the last fifty years.  When one arrives at this quarry
    from below, it presents the appearance almost of a crater open
    towards the front, along the lips of which, twelve or fourteen
    terraces run, one above another, each of which is from forty-five to
    fifty feet high, and upon which the works of blasting and digging are
    carried on by about 2000 workmen.  The stone is of a reddish-brown;
    sometimes, also, greyish slate, of fine grain, which splits well into
    plates, and takes a fine polish.  The mass never contains organic
    remains, but is frequently traversed by strata of quarry or
    limestone, in which crystals of some metals, principally copper and
    iron, occur.

    “The manner in which these quarries are worked is the following.  On
    the galleries, or terraces, large masses of slate are first detached
    by means of powder, and then roughly hewn into shape.  There are laid
    along each of these terraces tram-roads formed of rails loosely laid
    down, upon which the masses of slate, in waggons with suitable
    wheels, are thrust along by men to the little houses situated on the
    declivity of the mountain, at the extremities of the galleries.  Here
    they are split into smaller plates; and it is curious to observe how
    regularly the slate splits into fine and still finer plates, down to
    the thickness of three or four lines.  Several pieces are allowed to
    retain a thickness of an inch or an inch and a half, and are used for
    tables and flagstones, the thinner ones for covering roofs, &c.  The
    manner, too, in which they are squared, being cut out at once by a
    sort of hatchet, according to a line made by means of a ruler, is
    very curious.  The plates thus formed are distinguished by very
    amusing names.  Thus the largest are called _queens_, the next
    _princesses_, then _duchesses_, _ladies_, and so on.  The enormous
    quantity of slate produced may be estimated from the facts, that a
    railway has been constructed specially from these quarries to Penrhyn
    harbour, at an expense of £170,000, which _every week_ takes down
    between 500 and 600 tons, or about 12,000 cwt. of slate; and that the
    yearly net produce has sometimes brought in as much as £60,000 to the
    owner of the quarry, the Hon. Douglas Pennant.

    “The quarrying itself is attended with considerable danger.  The
    workmen, when a portion of the rock is to be blasted from the upper
    part of a gallery, are obliged to bore the hole, suspended in mid-air
    by ropes, to load the hole so bored, to set fire to the match, and
    then to place themselves beyond the reach of the explosion.  They are
    also exposed to the chance of accidents from the falling of portions
    of the sharp slate; and it was carious, even yesterday—on which,
    being pay-day, the work was not regularly going on—to hear now and
    then the explosion of the blasting of some part of the rock, at the
    same time that it was almost difficult to pass along the galleries,
    without falling over the little railways or some of the sharp pieces
    of stone.  The manner in which Queen Victoria was received here, on
    her visit some years ago, must have produced a curious effect.  As
    soon as she arrived, 1300 explosions were heard from all parts of the
    quarry, having been all previously prepared for this purpose.  After
    having (the greater part of the time in the rain) inspected all the
    parts of this immense quarry, and, besides, a saw-mill, for cutting
    up the thicker plates of the slate, we returned towards Bangor, and
    visited Penrhyn Castle, the property of the Hon. D. Pennant.  In
    olden times, a castle belonging to Roderic Molwynog, grandson of
    Cadwallader, stood on this spot.  It was rebuilt in the time of Henry
    the Sixth, and has been quite lately renewed (under the direction of
    a London architect, of the name of Hopper) by the father-in-law of
    the present possessor.  It is a remarkable and splendid building,
    such as could only be completed with a revenue like that proceeding
    from the quarries.

    “On entering the park, the castle is seen on a wooded height, grey,
    like Windsor, with large towers and high turrets, without any
    apparent roof, quite like an old fortress.  Through the castle-gate
    we entered the court-yard, ornamented in the Norman style: but this
    style is much more splendidly and grandly exhibited in the
    entrance-hall, from whence staircases conduct to the upper rooms.
    Every thing here is in the Saxon style of building; the columns with
    their curious ornaments, and the upper parts covered with arabesques.
    Tall stone candelabra and a splendid chimney-piece, all in the same
    style, increase the magnificent appearance of the hall; the windows
    with their round arches are filled with stained glass; the staircase
    winds over arches supported on columns, and beside Norman statues; in
    a word, the whole sight is grand and imposing.  The internal
    arrangements of the whole place, the drawing and dining rooms, the
    library, the bed-rooms, are all on a similar scale of magnificence;
    several wainscotted with beautiful carved oak: the furniture and beds
    all harmonising with the prevailing style of the building.  We
    remarked a curious object in the state bed-room (almost all such
    castles appear to have such a state room, with a bed in it); namely,
    a bed, of which the whole of the bedstead and the posts which
    supported the canopy were made of the finest black slate, beautifully
    polished and manufactured.  This reference to the principal
    foundation of the wealth of the possessor, appeared to me to show his
    gratitude rather than his taste.  It may easily be supposed, however,
    that other curious objects were to be seen here; among these, we were
    shewn one of those curious drinking horns, formerly general in this
    district, as also in Scandinavia.  I was sorry that we entirely lost
    the view from the continued rain; for this view, both towards the sea
    and towards the mountains, must be of a very splendid description.”



BANGOR IS-Y-COED,
(_Flintshire_.)

Chester              13
Ellesmere             8
Holt                  7
Overton               3
Whitchurch          10½
Wrexham               5

Bangor Is-y-coed stands in a detached part of the country, on the banks
of the Dee, over which is a good stone bridge of five arches, from the
vicinity of which a beautiful landscape is presented.  This place is
celebrated as the site of the most ancient monastery in Britain, founded,
as old writers assert, by Lucius, the son of Coel, and first Christian
king of Britain, prior to the year 180.  Lucius formed it into a
university, for the increase of learning, and the preservation of the
Christian faith in this realm; and it produced many learned men even in
that early age.  At the arrival of Augustine about 596, on a mission from
Pope Gregory I. to convert the English Saxons to Christianity, this
monastery appears to have been in a very flourishing state.  The monks at
Bangor were independent of the Romish church; and in a conference between
St. Augustine and its governors, the imperious missionary demanded of
them that they should keep the feast of Easter at the same time that the
Papists did; that they should administer baptism according to the
ceremonies of the church of Rome; and “preach the word of life with him
and his fellows.”  In other things, he said, they would be allowed to
retain their ancient customs, insolently concluding, that “if they would
not accept of peace with their brethren, they should receive war from
their enemies.”  They refused obedience to his injunctions, and
resolutely maintained the original rites of their church.  Shortly after
this period followed the dreadful massacre of the monks of Bangor.

Not long after this event, the monastery became neglected, and went
entirely to decay.  William of Malmsbury, who lived shortly after the
Norman conquest, asserts, that even in his time, there remained only some
relics of its ancient magnificence: there were, he says, so many ruined
churches and such immense heaps of rubbish, as were not elsewhere to be
found.  Leland says of it, in the time of Henry the Seventh, that its
site was in a fertile valley on the south side of the Dee; but that the
river having since changed its course, then ran through the middle of the
ground on which it stood.  The extent of its walls, he affirms, was equal
to that of the walls round a town; and the two gates, the names of which
had been handed down by tradition, had been half a mile asunder.  Within
the memory of persons then living, the bones of the monks, and pieces of
their clothes, had been ploughed up, in the cultivation of the ground.



BARMOUTH OR ABERMAW,
(_Merionethshire_.)

Aberdovey           16
Dolgelley           10
Harlech             10
London             225
Towyn               12

The town of Barmouth is seated near the bottom of some high mountains,
many of the houses being built on the steep sides; and viewed from the
sea, it resembles a fortress of some strength, hanging immediately over
the sands.  The town stands near to the sea, at the mouth of the Maw or
Mawddach, and takes its name of Barmouth, i.e. Abermaw or Mawddach, from
that circumstance.  At high water, the tide here forms a bay above a mile
over, but the entrance is rather hazardous, on account of the sand-banks.
This is the only port of Merionethshire, but its commerce is not very
extensive.  The chief manufactures are flannels and woollen stockings;
and of these Mr. Pennant observed sixty years ago, that £40,000 worth of
the former have been exported in a year, and £10,000 worth of stockings.

The parish church is distant about a mile and a half from the town, but
in 1830 a chapel of ease was opened here for Divine service, which is
principally performed in English.  A national school has recently been
erected at the outskirts of the town, on the Harlech road, from an
excellent design by Mr. Jones, of Chester.  There are also chapels in the
town occupied by the Wesleyans, the Calvinists, and Independents.

The town is generally well filled with fashionable bathers in the summer
season, for whose convenience, accommodation, and amusement, the
inhabitants have made ample provision.  There are two excellent inns: the
Cors-y-gedol Arms, where post chaises and cars, as well as guides to
Coder Idris, and the lakes and waterfalls, may be obtained; and also the
Commercial Inn, with stabling and coach-houses.  During the summer
months, stage-coaches leave and arrive every day in the week, except
Sunday, from different places, including Liverpool, Shrewsbury, and
Caernarvon.  There is a mail every day to and from the latter place,
passing through Harlech, Tan-y-bwlch, Tremadoc, and Beddgelert.  A
four-horse mail-coach between Chester and Barmouth has lately commenced
running daily.  There are several good shops; and for the accommodation
of visitors, circulating libraries have been established.  Here, also,
are two baths, a billiard-room, and a bowling-green.  The lodging houses
are excellent.  The town, and the turnpike-roads throughout the district,
have lately been greatly improved, and are still improving.  The
population is about 2000.

“The beach,” says Mr. Bingley, “is one of the most delightful walks I
ever beheld.  The wide river Mawddach winds among the mountains, forming
many and elegant promontories.  These rise to great heights on each side,
some clad with wood, and others exhibiting their naked rocks, scantily
covered with purple heath.  The summit of the lofty Cader Idris is seen
to rise above the other mountains, in the back ground.”  From Barmouth a
delightful excursion may be made along the banks of the Maw, or in a boat
up the river, for about eight miles.  The beach also affords a beautiful
drive of six miles.  From this place a projecting causeway, called
Sarn-Badric, runs 15 miles into the sea, which tradition says, though her
evidence alone is but slight authority, once surrounded one hundred
cities.  The upper part is perceptible at low water.

In the neighbourhood of Barmouth are several gentlemen’s mansions and
other pretty residences, of which Bryntirion, the property of Charles
Henry Harford, Esq., was the most beautiful: it was destroyed by fire
about the latter end of 1840, and has not yet been rebuilt.

The Rev. Mr. Newell, in his Scenery of Wales, observes that while at
Cors-y-gedol Arms, at Barmouth, he was introduced to a Welsh harper,
whose performance he did not seem much to admire.  Mr. Newell then adds,
“It is a curious circumstance that we owe Gray’s Bard to a Welsh
harper—blind Parry, Sir W. W. Wynn’s harper.  In a letter from Cambridge,
Gray says:—‘Mr. Parry has been here, and scratched out such ravishing
blind harmony, such tones of a thousand years old, with names enough to
choke you, as have set all this learned body a dancing, and inspired them
with due respect for my old bard, his countryman, whenever he shall
appear.  Mr. Parry, you must know, has set my ode in motion again, and
has brought it at last to a conclusion.’”

The angling stations are, Arthog Chapel, three miles distant, and Llyn
Bodlyn, four miles from Barmouth; Llyn Irddin and Llyn Geirw, near to the
town; and Llyn Raithlyn, in the neighbourhood of Traws-fynydd.



BEAUMARIS,
(_Anglesea_.)

Amlwch                          17
Bangor, by the bridge           6½
Caernarvon                      12
Conway                         14½
Holyhead                        27
London, by Chester             258
— by Shrewsbury                243
Mona                            14
Snowdon                         12

Beaumaris, a most respectable and well-built town, in Anglesea, is a
corporate borough, where the assizes for that county are held.  The town
and liberties are included in the parishes of Llandegvan and Llanvaes:
the whole occupying a district nearly semi-circular in form, and
presenting to the Menai a bold rocky cliff of three miles, and an
indented beach of more than two.  This place, like many others on the
Welsh coast, has lately become a most fashionable resort for bathing
visitors, for which it is admirably adapted, the sands being firm and the
water clear.  In 1805, hot baths were erected here, and accommodations of
the first class abound.

The church, formerly called “the Chauntry of our Lady of Beaumaris,” is
considered as a chapel of ease to Llandegvan.  It is situated on an
eminence in the centre of the town, and consists of a nave, isles, and
chancel, covered with lead, and embrasured; having a ring of six bells, a
clock, and an organ, all the gift of the late Lord Bulkeley.  In the
chancel is a beautiful monument of a knight and his lady, in white
alabaster, recumbent on an altar-tomb.  Mr. Llwyd says, they represent
Sir Richard Bulkeley and his lady; the former was appointed Chamberlain
of North Wales, and was in great favour with Queen Elizabeth.  In the
church, a white marble monument, executed by Westmacott, in memory of the
late Lord Bulkeley, who died June 3, 1822, stands on the left side of the
altar: this beautiful piece of sculpture represents Faith directing the
view of the dejected widow towards the bust of her husband and to heaven.
Also a beautiful monument of a female kneeling in an attitude of
devotion, on a pedestal, by Ternouth, to the memory of Charlotte Mary,
first wife of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley, Bart., and daughter of Lord
Dinorben.  There is likewise a tablet to the memory of David Hughes,
erected in 1812, by some persons who had been educated in the Free School
of which he was the founder.  There are also several other monuments and
tablets, but not possessing any peculiar attraction.  On a plain stone
near the east entrance into the church is the following quaint
inscription to the memory of Meredith Davies:—

    Who has been our parish clerk
       Full one and thirty years, I say,
    Must here, alas! lie in the dark
       Bemoaned for ever and for aye.

Near to the church is the Free School, founded in 1603, by David Hughes,
Esq., who also endowed alms-houses for six poor persons, to whom he
granted annuities; the late Lord Bulkeley added four to this number; they
are situated about a mile from the town, near the entrance of Baron Hill
Park.  Near the castle are the shire hall, and other suitable offices,
where the assizes are held.  The town-hall is a good building, comprising
the assembly-room and a suite of civic apartments.  A custom-house and a
national school are also included among the public institutions of
Beaumaris.

The Williams Bulkeley Arms Hotel is a magnificent establishment, and most
admirably conducted.  The Commercial and Liverpool Arms Inns are also
houses where good accommodation may be had.  The market-days are
Wednesday and Saturday.  Population, 2299.

Beaumaris enjoys a most beautiful and sublime prospect, with the
distinguishing peculiarity, that the eye at the same time rests on a
noble expanse of the ocean, and an extensive range of some of the
loftiest mountains in Wales.  A grander or more interesting scene it is
impossible to imagine.  From the spacious piece of ground called the
Green, which, landward, is enclosed by the hotel, a splendid range of
houses called Victoria Terrace, and the old Castle, this enchanting view
is seen to the best advantage; seaward, at full tide, it presents to the
eye an infinite variety, in numbers of trading vessels, yachts, and
smaller pleasure boats, constantly passing close to the beach, whilst at
low water the sands afford many delightful and extensive drives.

    “Ever charming, ever new,
    When will the landscape tire the view?”



The Castle.


Beaumaris castle was the last of the three great fortresses erected by
Edward the First, to hold in awe his new and unwilling subjects on both
sides the Menai.  For this purpose he fixed upon a flat near the water
side, with the view of surrounding it with a fosse, for the double
purpose of defence, and bringing small craft to unload their cargoes
under its walls; part of which canal, called the Llyn-y-Green, was till
lately remaining; and the large iron ring, to which the vessels were
fastened, is still in its place at the great east gate.

Within the present ruins of the castle is an area or square, of 190 feet,
with obtuse corners; on the right is the chapel, an admirable piece of
masonry, and the only entire room in all Edward’s buildings; its stone
arched roof having saved it at the general dilapidation.  Opposite to the
south-east entrance is the great hall, 70 feet long and 23 broad, with a
range of five elegant windows, and forming a front (its turreted angles
excepted) that has rather a modern appearance; and though, upon the
whole, a fortress of prodigious magnitude, yet its low situation, and the
great diameter of its Moorish towers, cause its ample proportions to
appear of less height and extent than is really the case.  This castle is
reputed to be the scene of the massacre of the bards by Edward the First,
who does not appear to have felt secure in his newly-acquired dominions
so long as this influential order remained to raise the song and string
the lyre to deeds of patriotic resistance.  The same system of
persecution seems to have been acted upon after the death of the
bardicide; for in the reign of Henry the Fourth, Rhŷs Gôch, speaking of
Gruffydd Llwyd, says—

    “The best of bards is interdicted.”

Within the area of this ancient castle, in the month of August, 1832, was
held a splendid Congress of Bards, or Eisteddfod, under the munificent
patronage of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley.  It was attended by most of the
nobility and gentry of the neighbouring counties; and the meeting derived
peculiar importance from the presence of Her Royal Highness the Duchess
of Kent, and her illustrious daughter, then Princess Victoria, now the
Queen of these realms.  During several months of that summer, the royal
party had honoured the Principality with their residence, fixing their
domicile for the time at Plâs Newydd, the elegant seat of the Marquis of
Anglesea.  A grand regatta in the bay followed the literary and musical
contests in the castle; and the evenings were agreeably enlivened with
splendid concerts, balls, and other festivities.


Baron Hill.


On an eminence behind the town stands this charming residence of the late
Lord Bulkeley.  At his death, it descended to his nephew, Sir R. B. W.
Bulkeley, Bart. M.P., by whom it is now occupied.  It has recently been
rebuilt and modernised, and is delightfully situated on the declivity of
a richly-wooded hill, commanding a fine prospect of all the northern
mountains of Caernarvonshire, of the bay of Beaumaris, and a vast expanse
of sea.  This place has been in possession of the Bulkeley family from
the date of the second charter of the corporation of Beaumaris, procured
in the reign of Elizabeth.  The house was originally built in the reign
of James I., for the reception of Henry, the eldest son of that monarch,
when on his way to Ireland.  But his untimely death so much affected Sir
Richard Bulkeley, the owner, that he gave up his original and magnificent
plan, and used the part only that was then completed for his family seat.
The old house was greatly enlarged and improved by its late noble
possessor.  The extensive grounds are finely wooded, and laid out with
great taste and judgment.  The gardens have been extended and beautified,
and the liberal owner generously allows them to be thrown open for the
accommodation of the public.  Sir R. Bulkeley is deservedly esteemed for
his efforts to improve the agriculture of his native county, by the
introduction of modern and scientific culture.

At a short distance east of the house, in a sylvan recess, is the stone
coffin of the Princess Joan, consort of Llywelyn ab Iorwerth, Prince of
Wales in 1105.  It had originally been deposited in the subjacent
monastery of Llanvaes, and, on the dissolution of that religions
establishment, was placed to receive a watering brook, like that of
Richard III. at Leicester, after the fatal battle of Bosworth field.  In
1812 it was discovered, in its ignoble uses, by Mr. R. Llwyd, author of
Beaumaris Bay, after being lost for 290 years, when it was removed to its
present situation by the late Lord Bulkeley.

A few hundred yards distant from Baron Hill is Henllys Lodge, the
residence of Captain Lewis Hampton, containing a valuable collection of
curiosities, which any respectable person is at liberty to inspect.
Contiguous to it is The Fryars, the residence of the late Lady Williams,
relict of the late Sir R. Williams, Bart., of Nant, Caernarvonshire, and
mother of Sir R. W. Bulkeley, Bart.

Six miles from Beaumaris is the village of PENTRAETH, delightfully
situated in the vicinity of Red Wharf.  Near it are the mansions of
Plâs-gwyn, the seat of Lord Vivian, who married Miss Panton, the heiress
and grand daughter of the late Jones Panton, Esq., and thus became
possessed of this fine property, which he has greatly unproved; Rhiwlas,
the seat of the Rev. Gethin Williams; and Red Hill, the seat of —
Sparrow, Esq.  The neighbourhood is worthy of a visit, being the direct
road to Amlwch.

The church at Pentraeth was thought worthy of an engraving by Mr. Grose,
the antiquary.  The Panton Arms is a good country house of entertainment.
Not far from Pentraeth, and near the sea-side, is Tre’r Castell, formerly
the residence of Marchudd, founder of one of the royal tribes of Wales.
It is now an ancient castellated mansion.  It was also the residence of
Sir Tudor ap Goronwy, who did homage to Edward the second, when Prince of
Wales, at Chester.  On this domain is supposed to have been fought, in
818, the “sore battle of Llanfaes,” between Egbert, King of the Welsh
Saxons, and Merfyn Frych, King of Wales.  From this place Queen Elisabeth
received annually a large supply of metheglin or mead, a favourite Welsh
beverage.  Close by is Castell Aber Lleiniog, where are the vestiges of
an ancient fort, founded by Hugh Lupus and the Earl Hugh of Shrewsbury,
when they took possession of Anglesea.  The neighbourhood, in fact, is
rich in scenic beauty and historical associations.


Beaumaris Bay,


Which stretches itself before and on each side of the town forms a
well-sheltered harbour, and in stormy weather affords security to vessels
of considerable burthen.  The depth of the water near the town is six or
seven fathoms even when the tide is out; but this deep channel scarcely
extends more than a quarter of a mile in width.  All the rest of the bay,
for several miles, is left dry at low water, and has the name of Lavan
Sands.  Among the intelligent natives an opinion is prevalent that these
sands once formed a habitable hundred of Caernarvonshire, and were first
overflowed during the sixth century.

The sea of the Menai occasionally produces very singular fish.  That
called the Beaumaris Shark sometimes appears; a curious species of
mussel; and creatures of forms that astonish the fishermen;—

    “Strange things come up, to look at them,
    The monsters of the deep.”

This may perhaps account for the marvellous legend, preserved in “The
Triads of the Isle of Britain,” concerning “the Palug Cat of the Menai.”
A remarkable whale was captured in this Bay in the spring of 1846, and
sent to Liverpool for exhibition.  The whole shore throughout the
district is said to be “a mine of fish.”


Llanvaes Abbey.


About a mile from Beaumaris, near the seat of the widow of late Sir
Robert Williams, Bart., and not far from the shore, are yet to be seen,
in the walls of a barn, the poor remains of the house of Franciscan
friars, founded in the thirteenth century by Llywelyn ab Iorwerth, Prince
of Wales, still called by the above name.  At the dissolution, the
establishment maintained eight friars, of whom two only were allowed to
be Welshmen, when the convent and its possessions were sold: they are at
present the property of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley.


Penmon Priory.


Two miles north of Llanvaes Friary, stands this ancient and decayed ruin,
consisting at present of little more than the ruinous refectory and part
of the church.  This was a priory of Benedictine monks, dedicated to St.
Mary, founded in the sixth century, and re-endowed in the thirteenth by
Llywelyn ab Iorwerth.  At its suppression by Henry the Eighth, the
revenues were valued at £48 per annum.


Priestholm, or Puffin Island,


A small island, divided by the narrow channel called the Sound from the
eastern extremity of Anglesea: its British name, Ynys Seriol, is derived
from the residence of St. Seriol upon it in the sixth century: the
compound name of Priest-holm originated in its being the occasional
retreat of the religious of the neighbouring priory of Penmon.  It is
also called Puffin Island, from its being annually resorted to by these
birds for the purpose of breeding.

This island will afford a day of sport to the disciple of Colonel
Hawker—or of information to the industrious antiquary—or amusement to a
pic-nic party; and indeed, to all visitors in search of health, pleasure,
or the picturesque, who may be sojourning at Beaumaris.  It is nearly a
mile from the shore, to the edge of which it slopes in verdant turf on
each side from its lofty central eminence.  In shape it resembles a
lemon, extending a mile in length and half a mile in breadth.  Near the
centre are the ruins of an old square tower, supposed to have been a
portion of a religious house, once subordinate to the priory of Penmon;
which, from “the odour of sanctity” thrown around it by popular
tradition, attracted many devotees, and penitents, and dying persons, to
its sacred shrine, either as the subjects of pilgrimage or prayer, or to
obtain interment within its holy walls.  Giraldus says, “the island was
inhabited by hermits, living by manual labour and serving God.”  The
superior reputation which this monastery enjoyed, induced the Welsh
princes, Llywelyn and David, and (after the conquest of the country)
Edward the First, to grant to it the revenues of Penmon.  Prince Owen
Gwynedd, who lies buried here, was the founder; and its sanctuary became
the refuge at once of the oppressor and the oppressed, in that lawless
age to which it belonged.  Little remains to attest the presence of the
crowds of devout men that thronged it, or of the noble, the wealthy, or
of the poor, that once were interred in its consecrated cemetery.  A
colony of rabbits has usurped their territory; and swarms of cormorants,
stormy petrels, curlews, and _puffin auks_, and, even though but
comparatively seldom seen, peregrine falcons hasten to these shores in
the summer months, to breed and nurture their young.  There is a small
house on the island for the man who attends a signal staff erected here
in 1826, to form part of the telegraphic communication between Liverpool
and Holyhead.

A pleasant aquatic excursion may he made from Garth Point to Puffin
Island, passing through the picturesque bay of Beaumaris, the distance
being nine miles.

A melancholy interest attaches to this neighbourhood from a most
calamitous event which occurred in the bay of Beaumaris, on the night of
the 17th August, 1831.  On the morning of that day, the _Rothsay Castle_
steamer left the pier-head, Liverpool, for Beaumaris, the number of
passengers and seamen being between 120 and 140 souls.  After passing the
floating light, stationed about 15 miles from Liverpool, the sea became
very rough and the wind adverse; and some of the passengers, apprehensive
of danger, in vain urged the captain, Lieutenant Atkinson, to return.
Between the Great and Little Ormeshead the vessel was beating about for
three hours, and soon after passing the latter, night had come on, the
sea running high, and the tide ebbing.  It was near twelve o’clock when
she arrived at the mouth of the Menai Strait, about five miles from
Beaumaris.  When opposite the tower on Puffin Island, suddenly the steam
got so low that the engine would not keep the vessel on her proper
course; and she struck on what is called the spit of the Dutchman’s Bank,
where she remained immovable till she went to pieces.  At least one
hundred persons are known to have perished, and twenty-one were
ascertained to be saved.

A strict investigation into the causes of this dreadful calamity was
subsequently instituted, from which it appeared that the vessel itself
was unfit for the station; that there were no guns on board to make
signals of distress; that the captain and mate were in a state of
intoxication during the time of peril; that there had been great
mismanagement and obstinacy on the part of the former, and criminal
negligence in omitting to furnish the vessel with necessary apparatus for
such an emergency.  The most praiseworthy activity is ascribed to the
gentry and other inhabitants of Beaumaris, as well as the boatmen
belonging to the bay, in rescuing the surviving sufferers, and providing
places of decent sepulture for the dead.  On this subject, the following
testimony, from the pen of Lieutenant Morrison, of the Royal Navy, who
has published a Narrative of the unfortunate wreck, is truly
valuable:—“The meritorious efforts made by Sir Richard Bulkeley, Bart.
and other gentlemen of the neighbourhood, to insure respect to the
remains of the unfortunate sufferers, I believe to have been attended
with perfect success.  Indeed, I saw numerous valuable and portable
articles which had been saved, and lodged in the hands of the authorities
of Beaumaris, and which might have been very readily abstracted by the
finders, to whom they offered great temptation.  I was never among the
inhabitant of North Wales before, and I must observe that the very
excellent conduct of the lower orders on this occasion forms a strong
contrast to that I have witnessed on the coasts of Devonshire and the
south of Ireland.”

The many accidents in this bay at length induced the corporation of the
Trinity House to erect a lighthouse on the south-westerly point of the
island, at a part called Trwyn-du, or Black Point, which was finished in
the course of the summer of 1838.  It is a splendid work of art in the
bell form; and contains more courses of masonry under low-water mark than
the celebrated Eddystone lighthouse.  The light is thrown out to sea by
means of a strong reflector erected on the opposite or Anglesea coast.
It is worthy of attention, and visitors will find it a pleasant sail from
Bangor and Beaumaris.

From April to October, first-class steam-packets regularly arrive from
Liverpool every afternoon (except Sunday) about five o’clock at the
Bangor Ferry inn (which has lately been much improved and enlarged), and
return the next morning between eight and nine o’clock, calling each way
at Garth Point and Beaumaris.  And we may here add that this is the
cheapest and most interesting marine excursion which can be enjoyed from
Liverpool.



BEDDGELERT,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Aber-glaslyn            1½
Caernarvon              13
Llanberis               12
Snowdon Summit           6
Tan-y-Bwlch             10
Tre-Madoc                7

Beddgelert, a village most charmingly situated in a beautiful tract of
meadows, at the junction of three vales, near the conflux of the Gwynnant
and the Colwyn.

The church is erected on the site of an ancient priory of Augustine
monks, with which a convent for nuns was also incorporated.  Part of the
arches and clustered columns which supported the nave of the priory are
still visible in the wall of the church, and there are other remains
which prove the original religious establishment to have been of
considerable extent.  In 1194 it was endowed with lands by Llywelyn the
Great; and it is recorded that in those days the prior had fifty cows and
twenty-two sheep.  In 1283 it suffered from fire, and Edward I. repaired
the damages.  In 1535 Henry VIII. bestowed it on the abbey of Chertsey,
in Surrey; and in 1577 it was made appurtenant to that of Bisham, Berks.

Moel Hebog (the Hawk Hill) rises boldly from the vale in front of the
village, which takes its name—Beddgelert, or the Grave of Gelert, from an
affecting tradition, which has been made the subject of an admirably
pathetic ballad by the Hon. W. R. Spencer.  Miss Costello gives this
romantic legend with her wonted taste and effect:—

    “King John had given to Llywelyn the Great, not only his daughter
    Joanna in marriage, but as a prize little inferior, a fine greyhound,
    of superior breed and great beauty, who was wont to take the lead in
    all his expeditions, and to bring down the game in gallant style.
    The usual season of the chase arrived, and the prince, his wife, and
    children had repaired to the hunting-ground in this valley: one day
    Llywelyn set forth, and had not gone far when he discovered that
    Gelert, his favourite hound, had lagged behind; he called him in
    vain, and, out of temper and impatient, he continued his way, and
    occupied himself in his sport, still, however, dwelling with vexation
    on the absence of his constant companion.  On his return, as he was
    about to enter his dwelling, he was met by Gelert, who leaped upon
    him and shewed every demonstration of delight.  The prince angrily
    drove him off, and, as he did so, remarked that the jaws of the dog
    were covered with blood, that blood was on the floor and on the
    walls—a strange foreboding of evil stole over his mind: his infant
    son had been left in the cradle—no attendant was near—he tracked the
    crimson stairs—they led him to the spot where his child reposed—the
    cradle was overturned, the infant gone, and a pool of blood was at
    his feet.

    “Llywelyn allowed himself not a moment’s time for reflection—Gelert
    was fawning beside the couch of his murdered child—his fangs were red
    with gore—he could not doubt but that the wretched animal had torn
    the sleeping babe, and drawing his sword, he plunged it into the body
    of the hound.  At this instant he heard a cry—he darted forward,
    removed the confused heap before him, and, struggling beneath, he
    beheld his child uninjured, his tiny hands resting on the body of a
    gaunt wolf, which had been killed by Gelert in his defence.

    “What was now left for Llywelyn but remorse and late repentance?—he
    erected a tomb over the remains of the faithful dog, and the spot is
    called ‘the Grave of Gelert’ to this day.

    “There is a Welsh adage which alludes to this legend, ‘he repents as
    much as the man who killed the dog’—and this would naturally lead one
    to imagine that the sad tale were indeed true; nevertheless, the same
    is told in many places, and seems originally to have come from the
    far East, where almost all beautiful stories had their birth.

    “It is said to be engraven on a rock in Limerick; it is told in an
    old English romance; it is repeated in France; and it is the subject
    of Persian drama!”

Some chroniclers assert, that Prince Llywelyn founded the church of
Beddgelert to commemorate the preservation of his son, and as some
atonement for slaying his preserver, the faithful hound.

In a field contiguous to the churchyard, is a large stone, which is said
to mark the spot where Gelert was buried.  Near the stone is a building,
now used as a cow-house, which is reputed to have been the residence of
the prince.

There is an excellent inn here, the Goat, recently enlarged and improved,
not inferior in accommodation to any in Wales.  The Caernarvon and
Tan-y-Bwlch mail coach passes twice a day through the village.  Behind
the old public house opposite is an interesting view of a solemn dell.
The eye, in surveying this chasm, is relieved now and then by spots of
verdure, patches of heath, thinly-scattered sheep, and the beautiful
curvature of the mountain.  In the Welsh annals this region is styled the
Forest of Snowdon.  A guide to the many objects of interest in the
locality may be procured at any time at the Goat inn.  When Mr. Nicholson
traversed this part of the country, the name of the guide was William
Lloyd, who was also the village schoolmaster, and who thus explained his
occupation in a placard stuck upon the door of the inn:—“William Lloyd,
conductor to Snowdon, Moel Hebog, Dinas Emrys, Llanberis pass, the lakes,
waterfalls, &c. &c.”  The name of the present guide is Richard Edwards.

On the road towards Aber-glaslyn, a stone is pointed out by the name of
the Chair of Rhŷs Gôch o’r ’Ryri, the famous mountain bard, contemporary
with Owen Glyndwr.  He was of the house of Havod-garegog, at the entrance
into the Traeth Mawr sands, whence he used to walk, and sitting on this
craggy seat, composed his poems.  Among others is a satire on a fox, for
killing his favourite peacock.  He died about the year 1490, and was
interred in the holy ground at Beddgelert, escaping the vengeance of the
English, for inspiring his countrymen with the love of liberty, and
animating them by his compositions into a long and gallant resistance to
the galling yoke.

The neighbourhood of Beddgelert abounds with objects worthy of the
tourist’s attention; and of several of these we will now add a few
particulars.


Nant Gwynnant.


Turning to the right hand on crossing the bridge leading from the inn,
you follow up the course of a stream that waters one of the most
beautiful valleys in Wales.  On the left, about half a mile up the
valley, is a lofty wood-clad rock, called Dinas Emrys, the fort of
Ambrosius, or Merlin Emrys, a magician who was sent for to this place
from Caer Merddin (Carmarthenshire) by Vortigern, who was king of Britain
from 449 to 466.  It was to this place that Vortigern retired, when he
found himself despised by his subjects, and unable to contend longer with
the treacherous Saxons, whom he had introduced into his kingdom.  It is
probable that this insular rock afforded him a temporary residence, till
be removed to his final retreat in Nant Gwrtheryn, or Vortigern’s Valley,
not far from Nevyn, in the promontory of Lleyn.  Speed says that
Vortigern married his own child by Rowena, daughter of Hengist, the Saxon
prince, and had by her one son.—On passing round the foot of another
beautiful isolated rock,


Llyn Dinas


(The Pool of the Fort), a lake about a half to three-quarters of a mile
in extent, is spread before you.  It is entirely surrounded by lofty
mountains, the tints of which being of a deeper and browner shade than
the generality of Welsh hills, gives a peculiar richness to the confined
valley.  The road runs close along the shore, overhung by one of the
magnificent buttresses of Snowdon: to the right the eye stretches across
the lake to the hills which rise from the water’s edge, above which a
second tier of mountains appears, the great chain which separates you
from the vale of Ffestiniog.  The river which feeds the lake winds
through the verdant and undulating grounds which spread themselves, a
miniature park, between the cottage and the lake.  A romantic pass,
affording space for the river and road only, leads to a valley totally
different from, though not less beautiful than that of Llyn Dinas: the
valley forms a bowl among the hills, the bottom is a small grassy plain,
here and there dotted with trees, through which the river winds; the
sides are magnificent mountains: it is beauty sleeping in the lap of
terror.—On the left, the eye is led to


Cwm Llan,


among the deepest recesses of Snowdonia.  The immediate boundary of the
valley is succeeded by heights rising successively above each other.
Immediately above this deep and gloomy gorge towers the monarch of hills,
sublime and terrific in his precipitous height, yet presenting in its
conical summit, its cairn and landmark, a graceful object, filling up the
mountainous gap, the sides of which form a suitable frame to this noble
picture.  You follow up the course of the stream, through the same
enchanting scenery, the road gradually ascending, till you catch through
the plantations on the left a view of


Llyn Gwynnant,


stretched below at your feet.  This lake and valley are deeply set among
the loftiest mountains of Wales or England, and form one of the loveliest
pictures in this country.  Two or three gentlemen’s residences render
this valley cheerful, without destroying its character of seclusion.

Shortly after leaving the lake, the most striking view of Snowdon
presents itself; you look across the valley on a huge precipice, over the
edge of which, through a wide sweeping dip in the hill, a very
picturesque waterfall, Rhaiadr cum Dyli, is projected.  Plain indications
of its source,


Llyn Llydan,


a highly elevated mountain lake, are apparent; above this rises a dark
perpendicular wall of rock, towards the summit of which craggy and sharp
ridges run up, and at the junction the towering peak of Snowdon rises:
shortly after, you join the road from Capel Curig to Llanberis.  Let no
inconvenience induce the tourist to relinquish this route.

In the vale of Colwyn, and nearly two miles from Beddgelert, is a small
pool, about the size of a good horse-pond, called


Llyn-y-Dywarchen


(Or the Pool of the Sod), first celebrated by Giraldus Cambrensis, in the
account of his journey through Wales in the twelfth century, as
containing a floating island.  This is still in existence, but not more
than eight or nine yards in length, and evidently appears to be a
detached piece of the turbery of which the bank is composed.  There is a
small willow-tree growing upon it, and it is carried to and fro by the
action of the wind and water.  Sometimes it remains near the side of the
pool for a considerable while, and it is so large and firm as to bear
cattle on it.  When it has been dislodged by the wind, a few sheep have
often been borne by it to the other parts of the bank.—Within two miles
of Beddgelert is situated


Pont Aber-glaslyn


(Or the Bridge of the Conflux of the Blue Pool); it is also called by the
inhabitants the Devil’s Bridge; on which account it has sometimes been
confounded with the bridge of that name near Havod, in Cardiganshire.  In
approaching this spot from Beddgelert, the rocks on each side become
incomparably grand.  The road winds along a narrow stony vale, where the
huge cliffs so nearly approach as only just to leave width sufficient at
the bottom for the road, and the bed of the impetuous torrent that rolls
along the side of it.  Here these lofty rocks, which oppose nothing to
the eye but a series of the rudest precipices, “raised tier on tier, high
piled from earth to heaven,” seem to forbid all further access, and to
frown defiance on the traveller.

The bridge crosses the Glaslyn, and unites the counties of Merioneth and
Caernarvon.  In the span it is thirty feet, and from the water to the
parapet forty feet high.  There is excellent fishing in this river; it
abounds with salmon and trout.  Some years ago, there was a noted salmon
leap a few yards above the bridge, and in the course of an hour, twenty
or thirty fish have been seen attempting to spring over the barrier, but
it is now broken down and fallen into decay.  The salmon come up the
river in the latter end of the year, sometimes as early as the beginning
of October, in order to deposit their spawn on the sandy shallows, and
are here very plentiful.  The fishery belongs to the Wynn family.  When
the tourist has passed the bridge, and proceeded about one hundred yards
on the Tre-Madoc road, he will then see the view to perfection.  The
elegant and venerable arch clothed with ivy—the foam of the little
waterfall almost beneath—the majestic rocks to the right, combining to
form one of the finest pictures in Wales.

It was probably from this place that Giraldus Cambrensis asserted of
Merionethshire, that “it was the roughest and most dreary part of Wales,
for its mountains were both high and perpendicular, and in many places so
grouped together, that shepherds talking or quarreling on their tops,
could scarcely, in a whole day’s journey, come together.”

There is very good fishing in this neighbourhood, at a lake called
Llyn-y-Dinas, about two miles from Beddgelert; the fish are good for the
table, of the weight of about half a pound; however, trouts of five or
six pounds weight have been taken.  There are two boats kept by Robert
Roberts; the flat-bottomed one is considered the better and safer for
angling.  Another lake appears, somewhat smaller, called Llyn Gwynnant,
which has been injured by being netted, but still affords fair sport for
the angler.



BETTWS-Y-COED,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Capel Curig              5
Cerniogau Mawr          9½
Llanrwst                 4

Bettws-y-Coed (or Station in the Wood), a small village, pleasantly
situated on the Shrewsbury and Holyhead road, not far distant from the
junction of the Llugwy and the Conway.  The church stands in a little
cemetery in the centre of the vale, enclosed by a few stately forest
trees, and forms a venerable and interesting object.  It contains an old
monument in memory of Griffith, the son of David Gôch, who was a natural
son of David, brother to Llywelyn, the last prince of Wales.  He died in
the fourteenth century, and is here represented by a large armed
recumbent figure in a recess in the north wall.  On one side of the
figure, there is yet left this inscription,—“_Hic jacet Gruffydd ap Davyd
Gôch_: _Agnus Dei_, _misere mei_.”  Within a mile distant is a bridge,
consisting of a single arch of iron, of 105 feet in the span, and called
the Waterloo Bridge from the circumstance of its having been erected in
the same year in which the battle of Waterloo was fought.  It carries the
Holyhead road over the Conway.

Near Bettws-y-Coed is also Pont-y-Pair, a most singular bridge, flung
over the Llugwy, consisting of four arches, placed on the rude rocks,
which form most durable piers.  These rocks are precipitous, and in high
floods exhibit to the passenger most awful cataracts below the bridge.
The scenery beyond, composed of rocky mountains fringed with woods, is
very striking.  The river Conway affords good salmon and trout fishing.
The remarkably picturesque character of this district is particularly
attractive to artists who delight to make sketches from scenes of natural
beauty and grandeur.



CADER IDRIS,
(_Merionethshire_.)

Dolgelley               5
Dinas Mowddwy          11
Machynlleth            13
Towyn                  15

These distances are computed from the summit of Cader Idris.

The mountain of Cader Idris, in height the second in Wales, rises upon
the sea-shore, close upon the northern side of the estuary of the small
river Disynwy, about a mile from Towyn.  It proceeds with almost a
constant ascent, first northward for about three miles, then for ten
miles further runs E. N. E., giving out from its summit a branch nearly
three miles long in a south-westerly direction, parallel to the main
ridge.  It is very steep and craggy on every side, but the southern
descent, especially to the border of Tal-y-llyn lake, is the most
precipitous, being nearly perpendicular.  Its breadth bears but a small
proportion to its length, a line passing along its base, and intersecting
the summit, would scarcely equal four miles and a half; and in the other
parts it is a mere ridge, whose base hardly ever exceeds one mile in
breadth.

Cader Idris is the beginning of a chain of primitive mountains, extending
in a N. N. E. direction, and including the Arrans and Arrenigs.  It is
much loftier and more craggy than the slate and secondary mountains which
surround it.  Dolgelley is the place from which the ascent to this
mountain is usually made.

Several tourists of literary eminence have made the ascent of Cader
Idris, and have left on record graphic and animated descriptions of the
sublime views which its summit discloses.  Mr. Roscoe says—“The following
morning promising a fine day, I determined upon making an excursion over
Cader Idris.  This mountain is one of the most lofty in Wales, and forms
a part of the great chain of hills which runs nearly parallel with the
coast for many miles, in connection with the Arrans and the Arrenigs, and
more inland, towards Corwen, with the Berwyn range.  Proceeding over the
hill which leads to Towyn, I reached a small lake, and turning to the
left, commenced the ascent.  After great labour for three or four hours,
and consequent fatigue, I reached the summit; and the pool Llyn-y-Cae
shewed itself, situated among high rocks, whose weather-beaten cliffs
overhang the water; but thick mists, wafted from the sea, prevented an
extended view.  Mr. Aikin has enriched his narrative with a description
of this grand and picturesque scene he witnessed, the following extract
from which leaves nothing to be desired:—‘We were now above all the
eminences within a vast expanse, and as the clouds gradually cleared
away, caught some grand views of the surrounding country.  The huge rocks
which we before looked up to with astonishment, were now far below our
feet, and many a small lake appeared in the valleys between them.  To the
north, Snowdon and its dependencies shut up the scene; on the west, we
saw the whole curve of the bay of Cardigan, bounded at a great distance
by the Caernarvon mountains, and nearer, dashing its white breakers
against the rocky coast of Merioneth.  The southern horizon was bounded
by Plinlimmon, the bay of Swansea, the channel, peeping through the
opening of the Brecon mountains; and on the east, the eye glanced over
the lake of Bala, the two Arrenig mountains, the two Arrans, and the long
chain of Berwyn mountains, to the Breiddin hills on the confines of
Shropshire.  Dimly, in the distant horizon, was beheld the Wrekin, rising
alone from the plain of Salop.’

“At the foot of the mountain is the little village of Tal-y-Llyn, which
borrows its name from the church at the head of the lake, not unmeetly
denominated by the people ‘the Charming Retreat.’  The church, a simple
antique building, is dedicated to St. Mary.  The parish extends about
eight miles, embracing in its circuit a large portion of the mountainous
chain.  The whole vicinity, wood, and hill, and lake—stirred by the
winds, or clothed with the yellow hues of autumn—wore a highly
picturesque yet dreary aspect; and I took great delight in exploring a
number of bold, romantic streams and falls, all within the limits of this
interesting district.  Tal-y-Llyn (the Head of the Lake), with its little
church, dedicated to St. Mary, stands at the west end of the pool, in a
long valley lying below the lofty ranges of Cader Idris.  Looking
north-east, the vale is contracted by the mountain bases, with their
sides broken into a thousand crags, some sharp and conical, and others
overhanging, as if ready to fall upon the heedless traveller, who wends
his way beneath their shadows.  Pen-y-Delyn (or the Harp Rock) is there,
bearing a resemblance in its figure to that instrument, with its indented
and perforated summit, ready to receive the first breath of the morning,
and to herald the rising beam of the great luminary with the fabled music
of Memnon; and Llam-y-Ladron too, (or the Thieves’ Leap), the Tarpeian
Rock from whose fearful top, it is said, the ancient Britons used to cast
their felon brethren.”

Of the heights of Cader Idris, of Arran Vowddwy, and of the Arrenig Vawr,
says Mr. Pennant, I am enabled to give a very exact account, by the
assistance of the ingenious Mr. M. Hughes, of Bala, who assures me that
the Pen-y-Gader is 2858 feet above the level of Dolgelley-green;
Arran-Vowddwy, 740 above Llyntegid; and the Arrenig, only 20 yards short
of Arran; that the fall from the lake to Dolgelley-green, is 180 yards;
so that the real difference of height between the Cader and the Arran is
only thirty yards.  Two graves, where human bodies were deposited, have
lately been discovered at the foot of Cader Idris, under two immense
carnedds.

Within the last few years, for the accommodation of visitors, a cottage
has been erected on the summit of the mountain, by Richard Pugh, who
resides at Dolgelley, and who acts in the capacity of a guide.  This has
proved of great advantage to visitors, who were not unfrequently assailed
by the teeming shower, without an opportunity of shelter; and who had no
spot for temporary refreshment while waiting for the dispersion of misty
clouds in order to enjoy the exquisite prospect.  Here parties or
individuals may have all convenient refreshments.  The road up the
mountain on the Dolgelley side has lately been much improved, so as to
enable ladies and gentlemen to ride up to the very top with the greatest
ease and safety, which cannot be done on the other side of the mountain
without great danger.  The charge of the guide for conducting a party to
the summit is five shillings, and the same sum is paid for each of the
ponies employed in the ascent.

For angling stations, see Dolgelley and Tal-y-Llyn.



CAERGWRLE,
(_Flintshire_.)

Chester           12
Hawarden           6
Mold               6
Wrexham            5

Caergwrle was once a flourishing town, but has dwindled into an
insignificant village.  Its parish church is about a mile distant.  There
is good reason for believing that Caergwrle was a Roman station, probably
an outpost to Deva.  Camden discovered here an hypocaust, hewn out of the
solid rock, six yards and a quarter long, five yards broad, and somewhat
more than half a yard in height.  On some of the tiles were inscribed the
letters, “Legio xx.” which seem to denote the founders.  This is further
corroborated by the name of the place, “Caer gawr lleng,” (the camp of
the great legion), Cawr lleng being the name by which the Britons
distinguished the twentieth legion.

The castle stood on the summit of a high rock.  Its present remains are
very inconsiderable; they are, however, sufficient to indicate that it
never could have been a fortress of any great importance.


Hope, {73} or Queen’s Hope,


Is an inconsiderable village, little more than a mile from Caergwrle; it
also has the remains of a castle, at which Eleanor, queen of Edward the
First, made some stay on her way to Caernarvon.—Within a short distance
are the mansions of Bryn Yorkyn and Plâs Têg.  Caergwrle and Hope, in
conjunction with Flint, Caerwys, Rhuddlan, Overton, and Holywell, send a
member to Parliament.

Angling station:—the river Alun.



CAERNARVON.

Bangor                       9
Beaumaris                   14
Beddgelert                  13
Capel Curig                 17
Dolbadarn Castle            10
Ffestiniog                  25
Llanberis                    8
London by Chester          254
— by Shrewsbury            236
Pwllheli                    20
Tan-y-Bwlch                 23
Tre-Madoc                   20

Caernarvon is the capital of the county, and is one of the largest and
best towns in North Wales.  It name is properly Caer yn Arvon, which
signifies a walled town in the district opposite to Anglesea.  Ar Vôn or
Ar Môn implies opposite to Mona.

    “Caernarvon (we adopt the interesting and elegant description of Mr.
    Roscoe,) is built on a peninsula, formed by the Menai on the west and
    north sides, and by the Seiont on the south.  It was formerly
    enclosed by walls, defended by a chain of round towers, which on
    three sides are still nearly entire.  In former times there were but
    two gates through which the inhabitants passed, but other openings
    have been more recently made to form communications with the suburbs,
    which are rapidly extending.  The town-hall is over one of the
    ancient gates of the town.

    A terrace, extending from the quay to the north end of the walls,
    offers a delightful promenade, and presents a variety of interesting
    objects around the port, which is daily rising into greater
    importance by receiving and dispensing the fruits of industry and
    commerce.  This terrace, Mr. Bransby observes, possesses the powerful
    recommendation of being always clean, and of soon becoming dry after
    heavy and continued rain.  From this walk to behold the sun on a calm
    summer evening, as he goes down ‘in a paradise of clouds’ behind the
    Anglesea hills, is to witness one of the most lovely and glorious
    spectacles in nature.  On an eminence called the Twt-hill, near the
    Uxbridge Arms Hotel, is a most extensive and varied panoramic view,
    including part of the Snowdonian range,—the isle of Anglesea, with
    its plains, farms, and villas, backed by the mountains of Holyhead
    and Parys,—the swelling Menai,—and the blue and spacious bay, with
    the sea stretching far beyond.

    The harbour and the pier have both undergone very great improvement,
    and ships of considerable burthen can now come up alongside the quay.
    An extensive trade is carried on with Liverpool, Dublin, Bristol,
    Swansea, &c., besides a lucrative coast trade, exchanging the
    invaluable mineral substances of this part of the Principality for
    timber and other articles.  Slates are brought here as to the general
    depôt from the quarries about Llanberis and Llanllyfni; and the
    country people of all ranks resort hither, as the best and cheapest
    market, from a considerable distance.

    The market-house, erected by the corporation, the Uxbridge Arms
    Hotel, by the Marquis of Anglesea, a number of excellent inns, among
    which stand foremost the Goat Hotel and the Sportsman, with hot and
    cold baths, and a billiard-room, render the modern town as pleasant
    and commodious a place of residence as the most fastidious nabob,—to
    say nothing of hardy Welshmen and pedestrian ramblers,—could possibly
    desire.

    Caernarvon is resorted to as a bathing place, and by invalids seeking
    health and amusement, for a temporary residence.  There are here the
    advantages of a genteel neighbourhood as well as salubrious air; and
    the rambler in quest of romantic scenery frequently makes this town
    his head quarters.  Besides many pleasant walks and rides in the
    immediate vicinity, within the circle of a dozen miles are the Menai
    Straits as far as Bangor, Llanberis, Snowdon, Plâs Newydd, and
    Beddgelert, offering not only inducements to those in search of the
    picturesque, but affording a source of continued gratification to the
    botanist, mineralogist, and antiquary.

    The parish church of Caernarvon is at Llanbeblig, and stands in its
    loneliness at the distance of half a mile to the south-east of the
    castle wall.  It is a structure of great antiquity, and contains the
    altar-tomb of Sir William Gruffydd (a member of the Penrhyn family)
    and Margaret, his wife.  The knight mailed in armour, and the lady in
    the full dress of the age, are sculptured in white marble, and lie
    side by side.  English service is performed at a chapel of ease at
    Caernarvon, close to the castle; but in this venerable little place
    the service is conducted in Welsh.  The churchyard exhibits the
    peculiarities which give a touching interest to some of the burying
    places of the Principality.  Flowers of all colours, but especially
    snowdrops, violets, and pale primroses, display their beauty and
    expend their perfume on the graves of children, and maidens ‘that die
    unmarried,’ while branches of the box, arbutus, and laurel, with
    shrubs of a firm and sombre hue, mark the resting places of the more
    matured in this ‘City of the Silent.’

    For its ample and magnificent feudal structure,—almost terrible to
    the eye,—Caernarvon is indebted to the first Edward, who raised this
    colossal castle—as if in derision of the poor tenure of all sovereign
    power—near the ruins of the great Roman station.  Soon after his
    conquest, Edward began the stupendous pile, which served less to
    overawe the Welsh than for a magnificent ruin and a modern wonder.
    The remains of Segontium furnished part of the materials, bright grey
    limestone, of exceeding durability, was brought from Twr Celyn, in
    Anglesea, and grit-stone, for the windows and arches, from Vaenol,
    between Caernarvon and Bangor.

    Vast, irregular, and more shattered than its exterior grandeur would
    lead us to suppose, this giant-fortress stretches far along the west
    of the town, its broad spreading walls being surmounted, at
    intervals, with octagonal towers.  The extent of the courts, the
    gateways, and the towers, bear equal witness to those noble
    proportions which astonish the modern architect, as from its
    Eagle-turrets he commands the whole of its magnificent area, and the
    wide sweeping circuit of its walls.

    Opposite the massive Eagle tower, in which the unfortunate Edward the
    Second was born, is the Queen’s Gate, {76} which had two portcullises
    that communicated with a drawbridge across the moat.  Over the
    embattled parapet are seen the turrets rising majestically above the
    solitary ruins, bounded on two sides by the water; the third bears
    traces of a large ditch; on the north-east side is a deep well,
    nearly filled up, with a round tower contiguous to it, apparently the
    ancient dungeon.  The exterior, and especially the main entrance, has
    an air of forlorn grandeur, blended with massy strength, which must
    at all times excite admiration and awe in the beholder.  The area
    within is irregularly oblong, and was divided into an outer and inner
    court.  The external walls of the castle, enclosing an area of great
    extent, are nearly as perfect as when they were built, and of
    considerable height and thickness.

    The state apartments appear to have been spacious, commodious, and
    handsomely ornamented; the windows wide, and enriched with elegant
    tracery.  The form is polygonal, though the exterior of the edifice
    presents a complete square.  The floors and staircases are
    considerably injured—in many places wholly demolished.  A gallery
    extended round the entire fortress, to serve as a means of
    communication in times of danger, and during a siege.  It lay close
    to the outer walls, and was provided with narrow slips, adapted for
    stations, from which to annoy an enemy with arrows or other missiles
    as occasion might require.  But its time-worn and ivy-covered
    bulwarks are now fast yielding, like the interior, to the assaults of
    time.  Some years ago the Eagle tower, struck by lightning, was split
    down several yards from the summit, giving it still more the aspect
    of a splendid ruin.

    It was evening, as I before said, when I first caught sight of the
    castle.  The sun’s disk had sunk below the horizon, but his refracted
    rays still played upon that imaginary line ‘which parts the day and
    night,’ casting an attenuated melancholy grace over the crumbling
    fortress.  I lingered amongst those ruins till the last vestige of
    light was withdrawn, except such as is bestowed by a clear blue
    firmament emblazoned with burning stars.  As I gazed, the phantoms of
    history passed rapidly before my mental eye, with an order and truth
    like unto the facts treasured in her pages, and with a realizing
    illusion that converted me into an actual spectator of the scenes.
    From the topmost point of the Eagle Tower a prophetic voice seemed to
    issue, dispelling the delusion that in those days clung to the hearts
    of the stricken Cambrians, that their own-loved Arthur would again
    appear to raise up their fast-falling nation to its former glory.  I
    saw the stern conqueror buckling on his armour, after the Easter
    festival, resolute to conquer or exterminate the defenders of that
    ancient land.  I heard the wailing of that dark and stormy night of
    Palm Sunday, when the strong hold of Hawarden fell before his
    victorious sword.  I tracked the line of march his countless legions
    took through the deep forest, reaching, in ancient times, from the
    confines of Cheshire to the mountains of Snowdon, leaving Flint and
    Rhuddlan still frowning in their perilled rear; and I looked upon the
    picture of that onslaught at the bridge of Moel-y-don, when an
    English knight was seen buffeting the waves of Menai, and alone
    escaped to tell the tale of national vengeance.  The panorama
    shifted, and another pictured page discovered that gallant prince,
    the last of his race who held the sceptre of the Cymri, slowly
    retreating before his haughty foe into the mountain holds hard
    by,—dispirited, though not despairing,—cursed by the priest whom
    Edward brought to curse him,—deluded by the soothsayer, whose
    prophecy bore ‘a double sense,’ too fatally fulfilled in his own
    person,—deserted by many of his friends, and his affianced wife
    basely held a captive in the hands of his enemy.  The scene then
    moved; the undaunted hero still struggled with his fate, once the
    sovereign of the whole land, now only lord of the five baronies of
    Snowdon,—goaded by the insults of his mean conqueror,—maddened into
    open war,—betrayed by his base confederate lords,—and perishing alone
    and defenceless in the solitary recesses of a wood.  Such was the
    strange eventful story; and that castle which marked the triumph of
    the conqueror, and the subjection of the people—which heard the
    infant cries of the first English prince of this cheated land—which
    opened wide at midnight its gates to troops of warrior-knights
    belonging to an alien country—which rung again and again with the
    rude revelry of that barbarous age, when the pageant and tournament
    of Nefyn was ended,—and which in the days of its strength, passed
    into the hands of foes, and friends, and fratricides,—that castle in
    its gaunt ruins, yet remained as the monument of these records, and
    the tomb in which past ages silently slept.”

A rail-road has lately been formed from Llanllyfni to Caernarvon, a
distance of more than nine miles, for the purpose of conveying the copper
ore and slates to the quay.

A most interesting part of the Menai Straits is connected with
Caernarvon.  Tourists may enjoy boating in perfection, either on the
Tal-y-Foel ferry, the new ferry at Barris, to which a good road has
recently been made, through the lands of the Marquis of Anglesea, by his
free permission; or to Aber-mania, at the mouth or gap of the straits,
and then to Llanddwyn, where are the remains of an old abbey.  On the
opposite side the gap to Aber-mania is St. David’s Fort, a marine
residence of Lord Newborough, well worth a visit, and where the domestics
shew the greatest civility.  A few miles to the northward, on the east
coast of Caernarvon bay, is Dinas Dinlle, an old Roman station of
artificial formation.

Caernarvon is remarkable for having been the first town in the
principality that enjoyed the privilege of a royal charter, which was
granted by Edward the First.  The government of the place was rested in a
mayor (who is always constable of the castle), two bailiffs, a recorder,
burgesses, &c. before the passing of the municipal reform act; now it is
under the provisions of that act.  In conjunction with the boroughs of
Conway, Criccieth.  Nevin, Pwllheli, and Bangor, Caernarvon returns a
member to parliament.  The member in the present parliament is W. B.
Hughes, Esq.

There are two banks, viz. Messrs. Williams & Co. commonly known as the
old bank, and which is in connection with the banks of the same firm at
Chester and Bangor; and a branch of the North and South Wales bank.
Coaches pass several times each day between this place and Bangor, and
the mail leaves every morning for Pwllheli through Clynog; and for
Barmouth, through Beddgelert, Tremadoc, Tan-y-bwlch, and Harlech.

Caernarvon castle is now undergoing considerable repairs, under the
authority of the Commissioners of Woods and Forests.

It is more than probable, that the town of Caernarvon had its origin in
the Roman city of Segontium, about half a mile distant, and that it is
not, as many have supposed, indebted for its name to Edward the First;
for _the fort in Arvon_, or in the hundred opposite to Anglesea, as the
name indicates, would apply with equal propriety to the ancient city as
to this more modern fortress.  The town, however, there is no doubt, was
the creation of Edward, and it was most probably formed from the ruins of
the old station.  The site of the ancient city of Segontium lies about
half a mile south of Caernarvon, the ancient Roman station mentioned in
the Itinerary of Antonius.  This appears to have been the principal
station that the Romans had in North Wales, all the rest being only
subordinate stations.  It received its name from the river Seiont, which
rises in the lower lake of Llanberis, passes under the walls, and
discharges itself into the Menai near Caernarvon castle.  Its form was an
oblong; and it appears originally to have occupied about six acres of
ground.  Not far hence was the fort which belonged to it: this was also
of an oblong figure, and stood upon about an acre of ground.  The walls
are at present about eleven feet high, and six in thickness, and at each
corner there has formerly been a tower.  A chapel, said to be founded by
Helen, daughter of Octavius, Duke of Cornwall, and a well which bears her
name, are amongst the ruins still pointed out.  The chapel was standing
little more than a century ago.  The old Roman road from the station of
Dinas Dinorwic, in Llanddeiniolen, to Dinas Dinlle, on the shore of
Caernarvon bay, lay through Caernarvon.  Both stations are worth the
attention of the antiquary.



CAERWYS,
(_Flintshire_.)

Chester             23
Denbigh             7½
Holywell             6
London             212
Mold                12
St. Asaph            7

Caerwys, formerly a market town, with the parish of the same name,
contains about 1000 inhabitants, being situated on the high road leading
from Holywell to Denbigh, through the beautiful Vale of Clwyd.  Caerwys
has the most considerable fairs for cattle, sheep, pigs, and horses, in
all the country, though its markets have long since failed.  The
market-house still remains, but it has been converted, time out of mind,
into a dwelling-house.  It is close to the cross; to the S. W. the arches
are yet plainly to be seen, though filled up; and the remains of an erect
south dial are yet distinctly to be seen in the south wall.

A few hundred yards to the west, is a most beautiful dingle, known by the
name of Maesmynan Wort, offering a pleasant ramble to the admirer of
nature and the botanist.  Near the place where the brook, which runs
through this dingle by Maesmynan House, empties itself into the Wheeler,
was formerly the residence of Llywelyn ab Gruffydd, the last native
prince of Wales: a cottage, now called Pandy, shews the place where the
prince resided.

Among the towns of the Principality, this was formerly a place of great
renown, but its glory has faded away, and nought remains to evince its
ancient consequence but its name.  This is a compound of the two words,
_Caer_, a city, and _gwŷs_, a summons, notifying its having been a place
of judicature.  The assizes for the county were held in the town of
Caerwys till about the middle of the seventeenth century, when they were
removed to Flint; the goal is yet remaining, though converted into a
dwelling-house, called Yr hên Gaol.  This still continues to be one of
the contributory boroughs for the return of a member to parliament.  Mr.
Pennant, upwards of fifty years ago, describes Caerwys as a “town
mouldering away with age.”  The chief boast of this town was its being
the _olympia_ of North Wales, the theatre where the British bards poured
forth their extemporaneous effusions,

    “In thoughts that breathe, and words that burn;”

and where the honoured minstrels awakened

    “Their harps to soul-enchanting melody,
    And gave to rapture all their trembling strings.”

Here were held the ancient _Eisteddvodau_, or congresses of bards and
minstrels, where judges presided, appointed by special commission from
the Princes of Wales previous to the conquest, and from the Kings of
England after that event.  These arbiters were bound to pronounce justly
and impartially on the talents of the respective candidates, and grant
degrees according to merit.  The bards were formed into a college, the
members of which had particular privileges to be enjoyed by none but such
as were admitted to their degrees, and licensed by the judges.  The last
commission granted by royal authority for holding this court of Apollo
seems to have been in the 9th of Elizabeth, when Sir Richard Bulkeley,
knt. and certain other persons were empowered to make proclamation in the
towns of North Wales, that all persons intending to follow the profession
of bards, &c. should appear before them at Caerwys on a certain day, in
order to give proofs of their talents in the science of music, and to
receive licenses to practise the same.  The meeting was numerous, and
fifty-five persons were admitted to their degrees.  From this period,
these meetings were discontinued at Caerwys and throughout the
Principality: the minstrel ceased to be considered a venerable character
in England, and our monarchs looked, probably, with equal contempt on the
bards of Wales.  Thus neglected and despised, the Eisteddvodau dwindled
to nothing, and reposed in oblivion for many years.

Towards the close of the last century, some spirited Welsh gentlemen, who
had the honour of their national harmony and literature at heart,
determined to revive a meeting likely to preserve and encourage that
music and language, the excellence of which has for ages been
enthusiastically admired by their countrymen.  In the spring of 1798,
their resolution was carried into effect; and an Eisteddvod was held at
Caerwys, the ancient place of meeting.  Since this period, Eisteddvodau
have been frequent in different parts of the Principality.



CAPEL CURIG,
(_Caernarvonshire_,)

Bangor                  14½
Beddgelert               12
Caernarvon               17
Cerniogau Mawr           15
Ffestiniog               20
Llanberis                10
Llanrwst                 10
Menai Bridge             17

Capel Curig is most beautifully situated on the London and Holyhead road.
From its vicinity to Snowdon and other mountains of note in this part of
the Principality, and to several of the first lakes in North Wales, it
has been for a long time much frequented by tourists; and since the
diversion of the great Holyhead road through Nant Ffrancon, and the
erection of a spacious hotel here by the late Lord Penrhyn, has become a
place of fashionable resort, and during the summer season is visited by
many families of distinction.  A new line of road from this place to
Caernarvon, through the pass of Llanberis, at the foot of Snowdon, has
lately been opened, affording a more direct communication with the
interior of the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth.

In this vale there is a lovely variety both of wood and water.  The name
is derived from its chapel, dedicated to a Welsh saint called Curig,
situate a short distance from the inn.  He is mentioned in an old Welsh
poem, which, however, only intimates his order, and nothing more is at
present known of him.

Capel Curig is situated in a district abounding with mineral wealth.  A
great quantity of calamine has been obtained here, and in the vicinity is
found the broad primitive rock called serpentine.  Near a place called
Bryn Gwaliau, between Capel Curig and Llanrwst, there are some remains of
a Roman edifice, a great part of which has been removed for building
materials: one of the apartments was found by Mr. Lysons to be sixty feet
by twenty in dimensions, and another eighteen feet six inches square, in
which latter were several short square pillars of stone, similar to those
of the hypocaust near the Feathers hotel in Chester.

Behind the inn at Capel Curig westward are two lakes connected by a
stream, on which a boat is kept, and frequently employed by visitors in
aquatic excursions.  At the foot of the lake there is an ancient rustic
bridge, from which, as well as from the lake, is a fine view of old
Snowdon and his proud associates.—At a short distance from the hotel
southward, rises the mountain of


Moel Siabod,


Whose height is 2878 feet: it is exceedingly precipitous, especially on
that side towards Bettws-y-Coed, and the summit is thickly strewed with
loose fragments.  From this commanding station is a most magnificent view
of the mountains of Snowdonia, of nine different lakes, and “ocean’s dim
immensity.”  The distance from the inn to the summit is about three miles
and a half.—Beneath Moel Siabod, towards the east, and about five miles
from Capel Curig, is


Dolwyddelan Castle,


Said to have been built about the year 500.  It is situated on a high
rock, inaccessible on one side, and consists of two square towers, one 40
feet by 25, the other 31 feet by 20, and a court in the middle.  This old
ruin, entirely enclosed by mountains, built probably by some of the
princes of North Wales, though its original founder and the time of its
erection are unknown.  Iorwerth Drwyndwn made this castle his residence,
and his son, Llywelyn the Great, is said to have been born at this place.
It was a fortress of considerable importance to the Welsh, but a few
decaying relics now serve to mark the site of its former power and
grandeur.  Recent investigations render it probable that this was the
last stronghold in North Wales that held out against Edward the First.
In the royal roll of expenditure of that period, appear items of payments
to an earl, a knight, and a squire, for bringing news to the Queen, at
Rhuddlan, where the army of reserve was stationed whilst Edward was
pursuing his successes in the Snowdonian mountains, of the reduction of
this fortress; and the date corresponds with the close of the resistance
and capture of David, the brother of Llywelyn.  The village of
Dolwyddelan stands within about a mile of the castle, and consists of
only a few small cottages.

Three miles and a half from Capel Curig, on the left of the road toward
Bettws, is the celebrated cataract of


Rhaiadr-y-Wennol,


(Or the Waterfall of the Swallow.)  The scenery around this truly
beautiful and picturesque fall, formed by the little river Llugwy, is
truly grand; the water at the top is in one body, but soon becomes broken
into many streams, dashing impetuously over large masses of rock, which
impede its progress, down a rugged chasm of sixty feet wide at the
broadest part, The high banks of the ravine are wooded, the trees hanging
beautifully over the torrent, and the ground is richly carpetted with
mosses and various wild flowers.  From the upper part of the wood, near
the head of the fall, there is a very good view of the descending flood;
a path from the high road leads to the fall, and a little wicket gate has
been placed in the wall on the road side, for the convenience of visitors
who may wish to obtain a view of this sublime scene, which, although
contiguous to the road, is so obscured in the wood, that the traveller
will almost certainly pass it unawares, unless he makes timely enquiry:
it may, however, be discovered by a summer-house which has lately been
built on the top of a mountain directly over the fall.

About four miles from Capel Curig, on the Bangor road, is situated


Lake Ogwen,


From whence issues the river Ogwen.  This lake is well stocked with
excellent trout of a peculiar colour and flavour, surpassing in these
respects all fish found in the Caernarvonshire lakes; they are of a
bright yellow cast in the water, though when eaten they have a fine
salmon colour; they are easily taken with the fly.  The surplus water of
this lake discharges itself at the western end, through a chasm in the
rocks, tumbling in three noble cataracts down a height of about one
hundred feet, called the Falls of Benglog, which are concentrated into a
bed in the luxuriant and beautifully green meadows of


Nant Ffrancon,


(Or the Beaver’s Hollow), so called from having been the resort of those
animals.  This is a romantic and tremendous glen, destitute of wood, and
even of cultivation, except the narrow slip of a meadow which lies along
its bottom.  The fantastic piles of rocks which compose its sides, rise
abruptly from their base, and stretch their barren points into the
clouds.  The Holyhead and London road passes through the whole extent.

In 1685, part of a rock, forming one of the impending cliffs, became so
undermined by wind and rain, that loosing its hold, it fell in several
immense masses, and in its passage down a steep and craggy cliff,
dislodged some thousands of other stones.  The largest piece of the
falling rock continued its motion through a small meadow, and rested on
the further side of the river Ogwen.  In the winter of 1831, another part
of the rock gave way, when upwards of one thousand tons fell from near
the summit of Benglog, a little below the Ogwen cataracts; part rolling
straight across the road, fell into the valley and river at the bottom;
while another part having acquired a less momentum, rested on the road;
the intercourse of travellers was for some time impeded, although one
hundred miners were engaged in clearing the surface of the road.  A
gentleman from the vale of Llanrwst had just passed along in his
carriage, on his way to Bangor, when the terrific sound of the dissolving
mountain fell upon his astonished ear.

The mountains at the upper end of this vale form a scene singularly
grand; on each side the hollow appears guarded by a huge conical rock,
Trivaen on the right, and Braich-dû on the left.  These, with the
Glyder-vach and the Glyder-vawr, and some other mountains, fill up the
distance, and apparently close the vale.

Near this place, beside a little gothic cottage, is a small hone quarry,
Y Trivaen, which received its name from three tall stones standing in an
upright position on its summit, and from below had the exact resemblance
of three men.  Of these only two remain.

One mile from Ogwen lake, in a deep valley, lies a dark pool, called


Llyn Idwal.


The gloomy horrors of the surrounding scenery exceed even those of Ogwen;
the encircling cliffs are overhanging, broken, and dark; in one part the
whole mountain is rent asunder, and the chasm of Twll dû (or the Black
Cleft) gapes between the terrific masses.  The solitude of Cwm Idwal
proved favourable to the perpetration of a deed of blood, and it was here
that young Idwal, the infant heir of Prince Owen Gwynedd, was
treacherously assassinated, by order of his foster-father Nefydd, to
whose care his father had consigned him.

Miss Costello gives the following description of this romantic region:—

“We were not induced to linger very long in the slate quarries, being
more desirous to make ourselves acquainted with the undisturbed nature
which invited us on the way to Capel Curig.

“The Vale of Nant Ffrancon is wild and stupendous in the extreme; it is
an extensive marshy valley, filled with peat, whose black masses are
piled in all directions in stacks; numerous alleys filled with the water
which drains from it, are cut through the turf on whose surface the
graceful cotton plant waves its feathery and snowy tresses, covering the
swampy ground, and lending it beauty; numerous water flowers of bright
colour give some life to the scene, which would otherwise be
inexpressibly dreary.  Huge masses of crumbling rocks bind in the narrow
valley, and assume the strangest and most grotesque shapes, as though the
visions of the Welsh bard, Davydd ap Gwilym, were realized, and

    “‘There were in every hollow
    A hundred wry-mouthed elves.’

“Indeed, the famous and dreaded family of the Ellyllon, who are fond of
coming forth in mist and rain, seemed to have pursued and overtaken us
just as we had nearly reached the gloomy, dark, and secluded lake of
Ogwen.  The clouds grew darker, and rolled in heavy masses through the
valley, and down the sides of the hills—a chill and hollow wind rose and
whistled fearfully along the pass—large drops of rain began to fall, and
we thought there was no escape from one of those storms so frequent in
these regions; but the spirits sulked themselves into good humour, and
did not force us to choose the usual alternative of travellers who fall
into their power, for they are said to insist on their taking the
uncomfortable choice of three methods of continuing their journey: to go
with them ‘above the wind, mid wind, or below the wind:’ the first is to
be whirled above the tops of the mountains at more than rail-road speed;
the last to be hurried along, through brakes and briars, against stones
and amongst bogs; and the middle way, generally preferred by those who
have experience in the freaks of these elves, is to accompany them at a
moderate distance in the air just clearing every obstacle.

“We contrived to gain the shore of lake Ogwen unmolested by all the imps
and demons, who seemed to have come on the wings of the blast from their
modern retreat on the pedestals of Penrhyn Castle, to visit the haunts
where they dwelt in days of yore, before every rock was attacked for its
mineral wealth as it is now.  On the borders of this solemn lake,
however, the miner’s hammer is unheard; all is solitary grandeur and
gloomy sublimity: mountains are piled on each other, and appear to crowd
together round the lake, pressing its dark waters into a small space,
deep and generally still, though ruffled when we saw it, by the rushing
wind that swept through the hollow of Nant Ffrancon.

“The river Ogwen issues from this lake, and the accumulated waters which
its rocky basin is unable to contain force their way through a chasm in
the rocks, and fall with tremendous force in three cataracts, called the
Falls of Benglog.

“Solemn and silent as Ogwen appears, it is less fearful and solitary than
another dark lake situated high up amongst the mountains in the vicinity,
called Llyn Idwal, where, in the early times of Welsh history, it is
recorded, that Idwal, the infant heir of Prince Owen Gwynedd, was drowned
by the hand of his foster-father, when

    “‘No human ear but Dunawt’s {87} heard
    Young Idwal’s dying scream.’

“The cliffs that encircle this lake are split into a thousand fearful
shapes, and a mighty chasm yawns between, called Twll dû, which is said
to be the abode of the unquiet soul of the murderer and the howling and
exulting demon who torments him for his hateful crime—a crime

    “‘Most foul, strange, and unnatural.’

“No bird will ever dip his wing in that lake, nor pause near its waters.

“Nothing can exceed the horror of this spot: the breach in the black rock
is like that produced by the Sword of Roland in the Pyrenees, but no
cheering prospect of far lands opens through: here all is dark, fearful,
and tremendously appalling.

“The Twll dû is sometimes called the Devil’s Kitchen; the waters of the
lake rush impetuously through its chasm.  In memory of the tragedy acted
here, the fish, of which there was formerly a profusion, were all
deprived, according to received tradition, of one eye, the left being
closed: as there are now no fish in the lake, it is impossible to verify
the truth of this legend.

“This neighbourhood is the chosen abode of demons and strange monsters;
and once upon a time, it is said, that a hunter pursuing the chase in the
valleys between these mountains saw suddenly, perched on a rock, an
extraordinary animal, such as had never before been beheld.  It was
hunched like a buffalo, and was covered with tufts of hair which shone
like gold.  The daring hunter pursued it over every obstacle, till he had
nearly reached the Twll dû, when he overtook and slew it; but he gained
little by his exploit, for the animal bellowed so loud that the rocks
split in all directions; and neither the huntsman nor his prey was seen
afterwards.

“The pretty inn at Capel Curig is built of slate, walls and roof and
flights of steps, all of a shining grey, contrasting oddly with its gay
garden of roses which lies beneath.  From this garden is a fine view of
Snowdon and its lake, with mountain scenery of great sublimity on all
sides.  The graceful bridge over Gwyryd is a beautiful object in the
distance: while Snowdon, Moel Siabod, and the three sister lakes linked
together, which extend along this charming valley, lie all before the
eye.”



CERIG-Y-DRUIDION,
(_Denbighshire_.)

Cerniogau             3
Corwen               10
Llanrwst             14
Pont-y-Glyn          4½
Ruthin               15

This is a pleasant village, so named from its being supposed to have been
the abode of the Druids.  In Camden’s time it was famed for some
druidical remains.  These ancient relics have long since been removed;
they consisted of _cromlechs_ and _kist vaens_, or stone chests.

At Pen Gwerwyn, a hill about a mile to the east of the village, are some
inconsiderable remains of a castle, of which tradition says that it once
belonged to Caractacus.  We are told that when he was routed by the
Romans, he retreated to this castle for safety; but was, with his whole
family, betrayed to the enemy, and sent prisoner to Rome, where he
delivered that celebrated speech which is so familiar to all students of
British history.



CERNIOGAU MAWR,
(_Denbighshire_.)

Capel Curig               15
Cerig-y-Druidion           3
Corwen                    13
Ruthin                    18

Cerniogau Mawr is a hamlet of three or four small houses, in an elevated
situation, on the London and Holyhead mail-road.  Five miles on the road
to Llanrwst is Gallt-y-Gwy, a terrace of more than two miles long.  To
the east appears the beautiful deep vale of Llanrwst, with Conway in the
termination.



CHESTER.


Although this city is not strictly within the cognizance of our
publication, yet its close proximity to North Wales, and the advantages
which it offers as a starting point from which a tour of the Principality
may be commenced, warrant us in devoting to it a passing notice.  Chester
abounds with objects of interest to the traveller; and its many antique
relics of bygone ages never fail to excite the admiration of those who
take pleasure in the quaint architecture, or historical memorials of
former times.

Its old walls, its antique rows, its curiously carved and gable-ended
houses, its venerable cathedral, its solemn towers, its abbey gates, the
ruined Priory, and the time-worn church of St. John, may be enumerated
among the more prominent vestiges of its antiquities.  While its noble
castle, its unrivalled Grosvenor Bridge, and the elegant lodge at the
entrance of Eaton Park, are among the modern attractions which the
tourist will examine with interest and delight; but to the description of
which we shall not in this place devote a fuller notice, as they are more
particularly alluded to elsewhere.



CHIRK,
(_Denbighshire_.)

Llangollen            7
London              176
Oswestry              5
Ruabon                6

Chirk is pleasantly situated on the northern bank of the river Ceiriog,
which, flowing through a small vale of great beauty, here separates the
counties of Denbigh and Salop, and of course Wales and England.  It is a
very neat and clean village, and contains some highly respectable houses,
and several substantial and well-built cottages, having been greatly
improved within the last few years by the late Mrs. Myddelton Biddulph,
who, on coming into possession of the Chirk Castle estates, pulled down
several dilapidated buildings, and erected others of modest and uniform
appearance for her tenants, on more eligible sites.  The Holyhead road,
on both sides the village, has been widened and altered within the last
few years, so as to avoid the irregularities and windings in its course.
There are some coal mines in this parish, extensive lime works, and
several large iron forges, which employ a great number of hands.  The
village has a good church, and in the yard are several remarkably old yew
trees.


Chirk Aqueduct.


The Ellesmere canal enters this parish from Shropshire, and is conveyed
across the vale of Chirk and the river Ceiriog by means of an aqueduct,
two hundred and thirty yards long, consisting of ten arches, the piers of
which are sixty-five feet high, and then immediately enters a tunnel two
hundred and twenty yards long.  On emerging from this subterranean
passage, it proceeds on its course through the parish, and then enters
another tunnel, soon after which it is carried over the vale of the Dee
by the stupendous aqueduct of Pont-y-Cyssylltau.  About one mile and a
half to the west of the village is


CHIRK CASTLE,


proudly situated on an eminence, backed by the Berwyn mountains.  It is a
venerable quadrangular embattled structure, defended by a low massive
tower at each corner, and another in the centre of the north front, where
is the principal entrance, under an arched gateway guarded by a
portcullis, into a square area of considerable dimensions, round which
the various apartments are ranged: on the east side of this area extends
a low embattled corridor, leading into the principal apartments, which
were greatly altered, modernised, and embellished by the late Mrs.
Biddulph, within the last few years; but the old entrance to the hall is
by a flight of steps on the north side of the area.  The picture gallery,
at the south end of which is the chapel, is 100 feet in length by 22 in
width, and contains some good portraits and other paintings.

Chirk castle is supposed to have been built in the year 1013, and was an
extremely strong fortification.  The front is about 250 feet; and two
persons abreast may parade the battlements with ease.  It was besieged by
the parliamentary forces, and considerably battered by the cannon of
Cromwell.  The repairs cost £80,000.

The park is extensive, and disposed with picturesque effect, the
inequalities of its surface, and the declivity of the hill extending
behind it and towards the north, having afforded a favourable scope for
the arrangement of the trees and plantations.  Near New Hall, which is
described as an old seat of the Myddeltons, rebuilt many years ago as a
farm-house, and surrounded by a moat, at the entrance into the park from
Llangollen and Wrexham, stands a pair of iron gates, of the richest, most
delicate, and exquisite workmanship, designed and executed by a common
blacksmith.

The summit of the castle commands a wide expanse of great beauty and
magnificence, offering to the naked eye an uninterrupted view into
seventeen different counties.  The river Ceiriog runs on the west side of
the castle, through a deep and picturesque valley, remarkable in history
as the scene of a sanguinary conflict in 1165, between the forces under
Henry the Second and those of the Welsh under their brave Prince Owen
Gwynedd, when the latter obtained a decisive victory, and compelled the
Saxon monarch to seek safety in a retreat to his own territories.

In this neighbourhood are many ancient fortifications, the most
noticeable of which is part of Offa’s dyke, thrown up as the boundary
between the ancient Britons and the Saxons in 763.

This fine estate has been in possession of the Myddelton family since the
beginning of the seventeenth century; the present possessor is Colonel
Robert Myddelton Biddulph, Lord Lieutenant of Denbighshire, paternally
descended from the Biddulphs of Ledbury, in Herefordshire.

One mile below the village of Chirk is also


BRYN KINALLT,


the elegant seat of Lord Dungannon.  It is delightfully situated on an
elevation, and surrounded by extensive and beautiful plantations.



CLYNOG,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Caernarvon          10
Llanllyfni           6
Pwllheli            10

This beautiful village is situated on the turnpike-road, about
equidistant between Caernarvon and Pwllheli.  It has a remarkably fine
gothic church, the tower of which rises very beautifully from among a
verdant cluster of noble trees.

St. Beuno, the reputed uncle of St. Winifred, erected the church and a
grand mausoleum, now called St. Beuno’s chapel, which communicates with
the church through a dark vaulted passage of six yards.  In this chapel
the remains of the pious founder, who lived in the seventh century, were
deposited, and here also was his saintly niece interred.  Her effigy in
stone, mutilated like an Egyptian mummy, is still to be seen at this
sacred edifice.

About a hundred yards from the church, adjoining the turnpike-road, is
St. Beuno’s well, eight feet square, inclosed by a wall eight feet high.
This well was much famed for healing the sick, and particularly for
curing the rickets in children.  Within the last fifty years, however,
the well has ceased to attract so many devotees, though no doubt can
exist as to the sanative virtues of its waters.

In the south-east corner of the church, near the altar-table there is an
old wooden chest, belted with iron, and fastened to the floor, called
“Cŷff Beuno” (Beuno’s chest), which was originally placed there to
receive the offerings of money from the devotees of the saint, who
repaired there for comfort and healing.

Between Clynog and Caernarvon is Glynllifon, the seat of Lord Newborough.
It was recently destroyed by fire, and is now rebuilt.—Near the coast is
Dinas Dinlle, a Roman station, 30 acres in extent, supposed to have been
artificially raised by the soldiers of Agricola.

Rhaiadr Dibyn Mawr is a waterfall among the mountains, distant about two
miles from Clynog.



CONWAY,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Aber                    9
Abergele               12
Bangor                14½
Caernarvon             24
Llandulas               9
Llanrwst               12
London                236
Penmaen Mawr            6

This is one of the most interesting and picturesque towns in North Wales.
The approach to the town from the Denbighshire side of the river is
remarkably interesting, and presents a fine view of the noble castle and
the beautiful suspension bridge, with the adjacent mountain scenery,
forming a glorious panorama of surpassing loveliness and sublimity.  The
pearl fishery of the Conway, which even yet, though shorn of its former
importance, affords employment to several poor families, was celebrated
in the time of the Romans.  Pliny says that Julius Cæsar dedicated in one
of the temples of Rome a breastplate set with British pearls, probably
from this fishery.  And in comparatively modern days, one of these
pearls, presented to the Queen of Charles the Second by Sir R. Wynne, was
honoured with a place in the royal crown, where probably it yet shines,
in testimony of the loyalty of the Welshman.  The British pearls are
found in a shell-fish, called by Linnæus _myd margaritefera_, the pearl
muscle, peculiar to stony and rapid rivers.

The port of Conway is a dry harbour, frequented by a few coasting
vessels; and the river is navigable up to the village of Trefriw, which
is about twelve miles from its mouth.  A quay extends along the east side
of the town wall.  The principal inns are the Castle and the Newborough
Arms.

The castle, built in 1284, under the eye of Edward the First, by the
architect, it is supposed, whom he employed in the erection of
Caernarvon, is very justly regarded as one of the most beautiful
fortresses in a country distinguished for the splendour and magnificence
of its military structures.  Though more extensive and better preserved,
it somewhat resembles the castle of Falaise, in Normandy.  Its base,
however, is less wooded, and there is no brawling streamlet leaping, as
there, from rock to rock, at its foot; but instead, a broad, majestic
river, and a creek full at high water, swoop round two of its sides.  The
other two face the town.  Within the walls are two spacious courts; and
the external line of the fortifications contains eight lofty towers, each
with a slender turret, singularly graceful and elegant in form, springing
from its summit.

The great hall on the right measures 130 feet long and 30 broad, and is
lighted by six lancet-shaped windows, opening out upon the creek, and
three pointed windows, of exquisite tracery, looking towards the ample
court.  Eight Gothic arches, four of which remain entire, supported the
roof of this magnificent apartment.  A lofty Norman arched window at each
end, and two broad carved fire-places, completed the architectural
decorations and appearances of the hall.  The spacious hall was the scene
of the Christmas revelries to which Edward and his queen invited the
English nobility and their high-spirited dames, while the monarch was
forging the chain that was for ever to enslave the prostrate
Principality.  The walls, on all sides, are covered with a green drapery
of luxuriant ivy, and a meadow of grass lies in the open area of the
courts.  The warder’s duty is supplied by a whole tribe of crows, whose
solemn parley is heard the instant a stranger’s foot approaches the
domain they have usurped; and the ivied walls are nearly alive with
blackbirds, and birds of all colour, whose notes resound for the
live-long day throughout these otherwise deserted ruins.  Two entrances,
both contrived for security, led into the fortress; one by winding narrow
stairs, up a steep rock, from the Conway, and terminating in a small
advanced work before one of the castle-gates, covered by two round
towers—the other towards the town, protected by similar works, with the
addition of a drawbridge over a broad moat.

Notwithstanding its grandeur and importance, this castle makes no great
figure in history.  Soon after its erection, the royal founder was
besieged in it by the Welsh, and the garrison nearly reduced to an
unconditional surrender by famine.  Finally, however, they were
extricated from their perilous situation by the arrival of a fleet with
reinforcements and provisions.  In 1399, Richard the Second, then in
Ireland, commanded the troops, raised in his behalf against the haughty
Bolingbroke, to assemble at Conway, and their numbers were considerable;
but the vacillation and feebleness of purpose of that monarch induced
many of them to abandon him on his arrival; yet the remainder was still
sufficient to have made head against the usurper, had not the king, who
feared to fight his own battles, basely abandoned his followers, and
rushed blindly into the snare laid for him by his enemies.  During the
civil wars, Conway Castle was at first held by Archbishop Williams for
the king; but the warlike churchman, being superseded by the fiery Rupert
in the command of North Wales, went over in dudgeon to the republican
party, and personally assisted the gallant General Mytton in the
reduction of the castle.  While the republic flourished, this noble
fortress was suffered to retain all its ancient grandeur undiminished;
but on the restoration, a grant having been made of it, by the Stuart, to
the Earl of Conway, its new possessor ordered his agent to remove the
timber, iron, lead, and other valuable materials, and send them to
Ireland, ostensibly for his master’s service, though it is generally
supposed they were intended for his own use.  A suitable fate attended
this desecration of one of the finest structures of antiquity, the
vessels which conveyed the materials being wrecked, and the whole of the
property entirely lost.

This ancient castle is the fictitious scene of the drama of the _Castle
Spectre_, and of _The Bard_ of Gray.

The suspension bridge, by Mr. Telford, is constructed on the same
principle as that of the Menai, though on a smaller scale, and presents
an appearance singularly elegant, lying at the foot of the antique
castle, and surrounded by scenery of the most picturesque description.
It is 320 feet in length between the supporting towers, and 18 feet above
high-water mark.  The chains on the western side pass upwards of 50 feet
under the castle, and are fastened in the granite foundations on which it
is built.  On the farther side they are bolted into an insular rock,
which rises in the bed of the river, and forms the strait through which
the gushing waters pass on their way to the sea.

The piers of the bridge, and the toll-house at the western extremity, are
built in strict keeping with the architecture of the castle.  An
embankment, formed of hard clay, faced with solid masonry of stone, and
stretching from the insular rock to the western shore of the county of
Denbigh, a length of 671 yards, with a breadth of 30 feet, and an extreme
elevation of 54 feet, exhibits one of the finest and firmest _chaussées_
in the world.

The church, though ancient, contains scarcely anything worthy of notice,
except the following inscription, engraved on a stone in the nave of the
building, which, though found in Pennant and other tourists, is so
curious as to deserve repetition: “Here lyeth the body of Nicholas
Hookes, of Convey, gentleman, (who was the forty-first child of his
father, Wm. Hookes Esq. by Alice, his wife,) the father of twenty-seven
children, who died the 27th day of March, 1637.”  In the market-place is
an old building called Plâs Mawr, which was erected more than two
centuries ago.  It is deserving the notice of the antiquarian.  The town
is surrounded by a very thick wall, strengthened by twenty-four towers,
most of which remain in tolerable preservation.

Miss Costello seems to have been thoroughly enraptured with Conway, of
which she says, “I think no description, however enthusiastic, can do
justice to one of the most romantic and interesting spots that exists
perhaps in Europe.  Although the modern bridge, which carries the road
across the river to the castle walls, looks, as it is of course, of a
very different date from the antique structure, yet there is something so
singular, so beautiful, and so aërial in a suspension bridge, that it can
scarcely be thought out of character with the Moorish-looking towers and
turrets to which it leads, which are as light and graceful as itself, in
spite of their immense strength and power.  With all the legends of
supernatural buildings with which Wales abounds, it would not be
difficult for the imagination to conceive that the Genii threw these
delicate chains over the wide space that divides the castle from the
opposite rocks, and thus obtained a triumph over the giant who kept the
fortress.  Both near and at a distance it has a beautiful effect, and is
even more graceful than the surprising work over the Menai Straits.

“The castle, although on the shore of the broad river, which is here, at
high water, half a mile wide, stands on a lofty rock, which forms the
strong foundation of the fabric, and defends the town, which must however
have been well capable of defence in itself, to judge by the huge walls
which surround it, and which are still entire, and the enormous towers
placed from distance to distance along their whole extent.  The shape of
the town is fancifully said to resemble a Welsh harp, to the form of
which it really has much affinity; and as there are no suburbs nor a
single straggling house beyond the allotted precincts, it is plainly
defined and has a peculiarly striking aspect, quite unlike that of any
other town I ever saw.

“In all lights and from all points the castle looks well: but the best
view of it is perhaps from the opposite shore, where all its towers, and
battlements, and minaret turrets, come out in great relief, particularly
with a sunset sky behind them, when they stand forth most gorgeously.
With the river full of water, and the sun going down red and glowing, as
we saw it the first evening we arrived, nothing can be conceived more
magnificent than the scene:

    “‘Seem’d all on fire that castle proud,’

“with crimson and golden flames issuing from the lofty, dark walls.  But
when we beheld it in the morning, shining white, with the blue sky for
its background, we could not decide at which hour it was most admirable;
and again, whether by the light of a brilliant moon the mighty fortress,
whose rents and defacements the favouring shade concealed, did not appear
after all to the greatest advantage. * * *

“We were so delighted with the extreme beauty of the castle, and the
quiet of this simple place, that we remained there ten days, in order to
enjoy frequent strolls amongst the ruins, and visit some of the most
interesting places near.”

We fully concur in the glowing encomiums which have been passed by the
most intelligent tourists on the locality of Conway, which is doubtless
one of the most attractive and interesting spots in the Principality.

From Conway, Mr. Bingley, the celebrated author, made an excursion round


Creiddin,


a commot or hundred of Caernarvonshire, situated upon the side of the
river opposite to Conway, and forming a considerable promontory into the
Irish Sea.  After crossing the river, and proceeding along the shore for
about half a mile, the first object of attraction is


Diganwy,


or Dinas Gonwy (or the Fort on the Conway), called by the common people,
“Y Faer dre,” and by the English, Gannoc.  The ruins of the ancient
castle are situated on the summit of two small hills, near the shore.  At
a short distance is a circular watch-tower, said to have been built some
time in the latter part of the seventeenth century.

Mr. Bingley next crossed the flat, and under the S.W. side of Llandudno
rock, passed the shell of a large mansion, which some centuries ago was a
palace belonging to the Bishop of Bangor; thence along the steep and
slippery sides of the elevated down of Llandudno, for about two miles to
the end of the promontory.  Here the rocks are for the most part
perpendicular, of amazing height.  Many rare plants are found in this
district.

About a mile from the N. E. side of the promontory is Llandudno church;
and at a short distance is Eglwys Rhôs, celebrated as the last refuge of
Maelgwyn Gwynedd, who fled hither to avoid the _vâd velen_ (or yellow
fever) which raged over a great part of Europe.

Not far distant is GLODDAETH, one of the seats of the Hon. E. M. Ll.
Mostyn, built by his ancestor, Sir Roger Mostyn, Bart. in the reign of
Queen Elizabeth.  The walks of Gloddaeth are remarkably beautiful.  The
house was famed for its library of ancient manuscripts, chiefly Welsh,
which has been removed to Mostyn Hall.  At the distance of a mile is
BODYSGALLEN, the seat of Miss Mostyn.  It is a place of great antiquity;
the situation is commanding, and finely shaded by venerable woods.
Archbishop Williams, a native of Conway, who succeeded the illustrious
Lord Bacon in the office of Lord High Chancellor of England, died at
Gloddaeth, A.D. 1650.

Another excursion made by Mr. Bingley was up the vale of Conway, leading
on the road to Llanrwst.  Having passed the village of Gyffin, he found
the vale of Conway to afford many very interesting prospects.  CAER RHUN
(the Fort of Rhun) lies at the distance of five miles.  It is a charming
little village, on the western bank of the river, surrounded with wood.
To this site has generally been assigned the ancient Roman Conovium.  In
the summer of 1801, the late Rev. H. D. Griffith had many apartments
cleared, where were discovered several broken vases, dishes, &c.  From
the road, near the bridge, called Pont Porthlwyd, about eight miles from
Conway, high up the mountain on the left, is a waterfall of very
considerable height, called in the neighbourhood Rhaiadr Mawr (the great
waterfall.)  Mr. Bingley ascended along a winding path, which conducted
him to the bed of the river, near the station, whence he saw it to the
best advantage.  The water runs from a pool among the mountains, called
Llyn Eigiau.  He pronounces this waterfall the grandest and most
picturesque of any he had seen in North Wales.

For angling station, see Llanrwst.



CORWEN.
(_Merionethshire_.)

Bala                    12
Chester                 33
Denbigh                 20
Holyhead                67
Llangollen              10
London                 193
Ruthin                  12
Pentre Voelas           15

Corwen (the White Choir) is a small market-town on the London and
Holyhead road, situated at the foot of the Berwyn mountains, on the bank
of the Dee.  The population (2199) is principally employed in
agriculture.  There is a good inn here, exhibiting the gigantic features
of Owen Glyndwr, the renowned and formidable opponent of Henry the
Fourth.

Within the church, under an arch on the north side of the altar, there is
a very ancient coffin-lid, in high preservation, bearing the following
inscription, “Hic jacet Jorwerth Sulien, vicarius de Corvaen; ora pro
eo.”  There is also a fine cross fixed in a circular stone to the west of
the steeple.  The name of Corwen, corrupted from Corvaen, is probably
derived from the cross: _cor_, signifying a circle, and _maen_, which is
changed into _vaen_ when joined with _cor_, is The Stone or Cross in the
Circle.

The house of the celebrated Owen Glyndwr was situated in this parish, but
not a vestige of it is now left: the site is marked by a clump of fir
trees, on the left of the Llangollen road, about three miles from Corwen.
At Rhug, within a mile and a half of the town, stands the elegant seat of
Colonel Vaughan.—Rhagatt, the mansion of Edward Lloyd, Esq., is also
situated in the parish, and within two miles of the town.

The roads in this district are excellent; the Shrewsbury and Holyhead
mail runs through the town.  There are also two good lines of road hence
to Bala; that by Llandrillo leads through the vale of Edeyrnion, which is
one of the most beautiful in Wales, the road very excellent, with
scarcely a hill in its course; the other by the Druid, 12 miles, commands
a very fine view of Bala lake, and the surrounding hills.  There is
likewise a very good road, 12 miles, to Ruthin.

Upon the Berwyn mountains, behind the church, is a place called Glyndwr’s
Seat, whence is a most charming and extensive prospect, which may be
reached without fatigue.  The rich and delightful vale of Corwen expands
beneath, with the Dee in the centre.  Here Glyndwr might view nearly
forty square miles of his own land.

Near to Corwen is the site of an ancient British encampment, called Caer
Drwyn; it is on the summit of a hill, and protected by a circular wall,
about one mile in circumference: and within are the ruins of a circular
fort.  It is supposed to be one of the chain of posts from Dyserth to
Cynwyd, and formed in olden times a stronghold.  Owen Gwynedd occupied it
in the days of Henry the Second.

The tourist remaining at Corwen, who has any relish for angling, may
readily obtain all the necessary tackle in the town, at a low charge, and
will find good fishing between Corwen and Llan-St.-Ffraid bridges, two or
three miles, and at Llandrillo, about five miles from Corwen.

This district was visited by a most desolating flood, caused by heavy
rains, in the summer of 1846.



CRICAETH,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Beddgelert           11
Caernarvon           20
London              240
Pwllheli              8

Cricaeth, a little borough town, contributory to Caernarvon, with 811
inhabitants, is very irregularly built.  Except the remains of its small
castle, it contains nothing which can claim the attention of the
traveller.  This ruin stands on a rising ground, at the end of a long
neck of land, jutting into the sea.  The entrance into it is between two
round towers; the others being all square.  Edward the First is said to
have founded this castle; and it was once the residence of
Howel-y-Fwyall, who captured the king of France at the battle of
Poictiers.  It is stated that the Welsh warrior struck off the head of
the king’s horse with a battle-axe, and then secured the monarch.  The
event is thus recorded by one of the native bards:—

             “Pan roddodd
    Y ffrwyn ymhen Brenin Ffrainc.”

The Black Prince made Howel constable of this castle, granting him a
guard of eighty yeomen at the royal charge, and a mess of meat to be
served up daily before his pole-axe.

The church, dedicated to St. Catherine, is a spacious structure, but in a
very neglected state.

From the eminence on which the castle stands, is a beautiful view across
Cardigan bay towards Harlech, where is seen its fine old castle, backed
by the high and distant mountains of Merionethshire.



DENBIGH.

Abergele                    13
Chester                     28
Conway                      25
Corwen                      20
Holywell                    14
Llanrwst                    22
London by Chester          214
— by Shrewsbury            206
Mold                        16
Ruthin                       8
St. Asaph                    6
Bodfary                      4

Denbigh, the capital of the county, is situated on the declivity of a
craggy hill, in the vale of Clwyd.  This place was originally named by
the Welsh Castell Caled-Vryn-yn-Rhôs (the Castle on the Craggy Hill in
Rhôs), from the prominent situation of the castle in the ancient
territory of that name.  By the parliamentary returns of 1841, the
population was 3405.  The two principal inns are the Bull and the Crown.
Denbigh was formerly accounted a place of great importance, while its
castle and walls were entire; and, about the middle of the sixteenth
century, it was thus celebrated by Churchyard, the poet, in his “Worthies
of Wales:”—

    Denbigh, now appeare, thy turne is next,
       I need no gloss, nor shade, to set thee out;
    For if my pen doe follow playnest text,
       And passe right way, and goe nothing about,
    Thou shalt be knowne, as worthie well thou art,
    The noblest soyle that is in any part;
    And for thy seate, and castle do compare,
    With any one in Wales, whate’er they are.

The town is picturesquely situated on the side of a steep hill, and the
noble ruins of the castle on its summit greatly contribute to its
venerable appearance.  Denbigh consists of three principal, and several
smaller streets and lanes, and is well paved and lighted, but only
scantily supplied with water, which is brought from several springs, each
at some distance from the more respectable portions of the town.  This
inconvenience is much increased during a continuance of dry weather, at
which time the wells occasionally become exhausted, excepting that termed
the Goblin Well, situated at the foot of the hill on which the castle is
built; this is so copious as to supply a considerable portion of the
town, but the labour of carrying the water up the steep ascent is very
great.  Connected with this spring is a cold bath.  The environs abound
with beautiful and richly varied scenery.  The land in the vicinity is
rich, and in a high state of cultivation; and in the neighbourhood are
numerous splendid seats and elegant villas, inhabited by opulent
families, who have selected Denbigh for their residence on account of the
advantages of its situation.

The ancient parochial church, dedicated to St. Marcellus, and now in a
very dilapidated condition, is situated in the open valley, at
Whitchurch, {102a} about a mile from the town, from which place the
rectory was transferred by act of parliament to Denbigh, which was made
the head of the parish.  In the porch of this church are two monumental
brass effigies, in a kneeling posture, of Richard Myddelton, {102b} of
Gwaunynog, governor of Denbigh Castle in the reigns of Edward VI., Mary,
and Elizabeth; and of his wife Jane, both of whom were here interred.  In
the body of the building there is an ill-executed mural monument to the
memory of the learned Welsh antiquary, Humphrey Llwyd, of Foxhall, near
Denbigh, who is represented as kneeling beneath a range of small arches,
and in Spanish costume.  There is also a large altar-tomb to the memory
of Sir John Salusbury and his lady, the former of whom died in 1578.  A
neat mural monument in the western wall has been erected, by the
Gwyneddigion Society in London, to the memory of Thomas Edwards, of Nant,
commonly called Twm o’r Nant, the celebrated “Cambrian Shakspere,” who
died on the 3rd of April, 1810, at the age of 71, and was interred in the
churchyard.

All the parochial duties are now performed at the chapel of St. Hilary,
within the walls of the castle, with the exception of funerals, which
still take place at Whitchurch, there being no cemetery attached to the
former.  The inhabitants, early in 1838, realized a handsome subscription
to erect a new church, so as to be more convenient, in a contiguous part
of Denbigh parks, the site of which was liberally offered by Captain
Mostyn, R.N.  The first stone was laid on the coronation-day of our
beloved sovereign, Queen Victoria.  There are places of worship for
Baptists, Independents, Calvinists, and Wesleyan Methodists.  The town
also contains a free grammar-school for twenty boys; a blue-coat charity
school, on the foundation of which are twenty-four hoys; a national
school, in which eighty-six boys and one hundred girls are educated.

Denbigh has a good town-hall, a dispensary, a reading room and a Welsh
literary society.  Its chief manufactories are gloves and shoes; the
market is held on Wednesday and Saturday.  There is also a branch of the
North and South Wales Bank here.  Denbigh is the chief of the
contributory boroughs that send one member to parliament: the present
M.P. is Townshend Mainwaring, Esq., of Marchwiel.

It is a remarkable circumstance that no specific provision for the insane
poor has been made in any part of North Wales, although the melancholy
records of those afflicted by the loss of reason, prove that the Welsh
are no more exempt from that severe visitation than the mixed races known
as Anglo-Saxon.  This circumstance excited the attention of the
philanthropic Mr. Ablett, of Llanbedr, who has most generously presented
twenty acres of land, in the immediate vicinity of Denbigh, for the site
of the building and grounds of an institution to be called the North
Wales Lunatic Asylum, and a subscription amounting to upwards of £6000
has been realized.  The estimate for one commensurate to the wants of
this part of Wales, is from £12,000 to £15,000, and it is proposed that
the rest of the fund shall be contributed by the counties, in whom the
management of the institution shall be vested.


The Castle


is situated on the summit of the Caled-Vryn, an isolated limestone rock,
rising abruptly to the height of two hundred and forty feet from the
western boundary of the Vale of Clwyd, and incloses an area of
considerable extent; the principal entrance is on the north, under a
lofty and magnificent arch, which is nearly entire, and flanked by two
large towers, now in ruins; above it is a niche, in which is a robed
figure of the founder, Henry Lacey, Earl of Lincoln, in a sitting
posture; the whole of the rooms and towers are in a state of the utmost
dilapidation.  The citadel is surrounded with walls, a mile and a quarter
in circumference, which inclose the whole of the ancient town: the
principal entrance is on the north-west, and is defended by two majestic
towers, which are nearly entire; from these the walls extend round the
brow of the hill, on the most elevated and precipitous parts of which
numerous lofty towers have been erected, forming together one of the
strongest bulwarks in the kingdom.  Within these walls are the ruins of
the church or chapel, founded by the Earl of Leicester; and the chapel of
St. Hilary, formerly appropriated to the use of the garrison, and now the
parochial church.

The walls inclose a considerable area, now covered with grass, in which
horses and cattle are depastured.  Within the walls of the fortress are
numerous cottages, which materially diminish the interest commonly
excited by such extensive ruins; and on the south-west front of the
castle, and on the boundary wall on this side, are an extensive terrace
and bowling-green, commanding one of the richest and most delightful
views of the fertile Vale of Clwyd, embracing the whole of the eastern
portion of this beautiful and finely varied tract, terminated by the
ocean at Llandudno bay, and on the south by the whole range of Clwydian
mountains, with their numerous camps and tumuli.  On this delightful spot
the congress of bards and minstrels, called the grand Eisteddfod, was
held on the 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th days of September, 1828: it was
honoured by the presence of his royal highness the Duke of Sussex, and
most of the nobility and gentry of the surrounding country.  The
bowling-green, in the midst of the ruins, is well worth a visit; it is
laid out with considerable taste.—Within two miles of Denbigh is


Gwaunynog,


which was visited by Dr. Johnson, during his residence with Mrs. Piozzi:
the estate was at that time in the possession of his friend, the Rev. Dr.
Myddelton.  In the hall is still retained an easy chair, in which Dr.
Johnson was accustomed to sit.  On the grounds, a short distance from the
house, in a very retired situation, overhung with trees, is a monument to
his memory, bearing the following inscription:—

                          SAMUEL JOHNSON, LL. D.
                          OBIT 13 DIE DECEMBRIS,
                            ANNO DOMINO 1784,
                                ÆTATIS 75.

And on the other side, on a marble tablet,—“This spot was often dignified
by the presence of Samuel Johnson, LL.D., whose moral writings, exactly
conformable to the precepts of Christianity, give ardour to virtue, and
confidence to truth.”  Over a door of a cottage on the estate are the
following lines, the composition of the learned lexicographer:—

    Around this peaceful cot, his humble shed,
    If health, if confidence, if virtue tread,
    Though no proud column grace the gaudy door,
    Where sculptured elegance parades it o’er;
    Nor pomp without, nor pageantry within,
    Nor splendid shew, nor ornament is seen;
    The swain shall look with pity on the great,
    Nor barter quiet for a king’s estate.

                                                                     1768.

Near to this place is the village of Henllan, about two miles from which
is Llanefydd, leading to the Aled and Elwy vales.



DINAS MOWDDWY,
(_Merionethshire_.)

Bala                  18
Dolgelley             10
Llangollen            40
Machynlleth          13½
Mallwyd               1½

Dinas Mowddwy is an inconsiderable town, in the parish of Mallwyd,
pleasantly situated on the shelf of a rock called Craig-y-Ddinas, near
the margin of the small river Cerrist, at its conflux with the Dovey, and
on the road from Dolgelley to Mallwyd, at the junction of three vales,
each of which is inclosed by lofty mountains: it consists chiefly of one
street.  The principal building is the “Plâs,” or mansion, being the
manor house of the lordship of Mowddwy, which from an early period
belonged to the Myttons of Halston, but was lately purchased by a Mr.
Bird, of Birmingham.

Slates, of an inferior quality, are dug from the adjacent rocks, for the
use of the neighbouring country.


DINORWIC (PORT)


Is situate about half way between Bangor and Caernarvon, and is the
shipping place for the Llanberis quarries, belonging to T. Assheton
Smith, Esq., of Vaenol.  Upwards of one hundred tons per day are loaded
at the wharf, and the railway by which they are conveyed is an object of
considerable interest.



DISERTH,
(_Flintshire_.)

Holywell            9
Rhuddlan           2½
St. Asaph           5

The church of this village stands in a romantic situation, overshadowed
with several large yews.  There are some good paintings in the south
window, and in the chancel is inscribed, “Sir John Conway, 1636.”  The
yard contains some singular tomb-stones; two in particular have a
semi-circular stone upon their tops: also an ancient cross, adorned with
wreaths, and another with some traces of a human figure, now inserted
into the situation as a style.  The latter is supposed to be the remains
of Cross Einion, which was erected on the spot where Einion, son of Risid
Flaidd, was slain, at one of the sieges which the castle sustained.

The castle, called sometimes Gerri Castle, (or Castell y Graig,) stands
on the summit of a high lime-stone rock, at the distance of half a mile
from the village; its remains consist of a few shattered fragments only.
In a field a little to the south, is a ruinous building called Siamber
Wen, (the White Hall,) said to have been the house of Sir — Pounderling,
a valiant knight, who was constable of the castle, and whose tomb is
still to be seen in Dinmeirchion church.  Cwm church, about a mile
distant, is surrounded with hills, and commands a view of the Vale of
Clwyd.

From the top of one of the hills that surrounds the village issues a
water, forming a beautiful cascade, which rises from a small well, culled
Ffynnon-asa, (or St. Asaph’s Well,) in a dingle in Cwm parish.  The
height of the cascade is 17 yards, concealed between two arches of the
rock, behind which it has worn a passage.



DOLGELLEY,
(_Merionethshire_.)

Bala                  18
Barmouth              10
Chester               57
London               212
Machynlleth           16
Maen Twrog            18
Towyn                 17
Trawsfynedd           12

Dolgelley (the Dale of the Hazel) is the principal market town in
Merionethshire, where the assizes are held alternately with Bala.  It is
situated in a wide and fertile vale, upon the river Wnion, over which is
a stone bridge of seven arches, erected in 1638, but thoroughly repaired
and enlarged some years ago.  The town is surrounded by high and, in many
parts, wooded mountains.

There are many well-built houses, including a good range, fronted by
shops, called Eldon Row, the property of Sir Robert Vaughan; but in
general the houses are erected with such extreme irregularity in regard
to each other, as to convey but a mean idea of the projector’s good
taste.  The principal building is the county hall, situated near the
river; it is a neat stone edifice, erected in 1825, at an expense of
£3000.  The court room is handsomely fitted up with necessary
accommodations for the officers of justice.  In the hall is a splendid
portrait of Sir R. W. Vaughan, Bart. painted by Sir M. A. Shee, P.R.A.

The county gaol, situated at the outskirts of the town, is a semicircular
edifice of stone, built in 1811, at an expense of nearly £5000; it
includes also the house of correction, and comprises three day rooms, and
four airing yards, and will admit of a classification of the prisoners
into five divisions.  Part of the building in which a parliament was held
by Owen Glyndwr, is still standing among a group of old houses, having
the post-office in front, near the Ship Inn, and is called Cwrt Plâs yn y
Drêv (the town hall court).

The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a neat structure built of
lime-stone, in the Grecian style of architecture, having a handsome tower
and large nave.  There is an ancient monument of an armed knight; he is
represented as clad in close mail, wearing a helmet and neck guard, with
a sword in his hand and a dog at his feet, and a lion passant gardant on
his shield, on which is inscribed, “Hic jacet Mauric, filius Ynyr
Vychan.”  There is also a handsome monument lately erected to the memory
of Baron Richards, who was a native of this parish.  In 1836, a neat
monument was also erected to the memory of the late Rev. John Jones, A.M.
Archdeacon of Merioneth.  Service is performed here in the English
language, on every alternate Sunday, in the afternoon.  The celebrated
antiquary, Robert Vaughan, of Hengwrt, was buried in this church.

This place has long been noted for the manufacture of coarse woollen
cloth or flannel, called webs, in which a considerable number of persons
are at present employed.  There are several good inns, the Golden Lion,
the Angel, and the Ship, at all of which guides may be obtained to Cader
Idris and the waterfalls.  There are also three banks here: the old
Dolgelley bank, a branch of the North and South Wales, and a branch of
the National Provincial.—About three miles from Dolgelley, on the
Machynlleth road, is Caerynwch, the seat of Richard Richards, Esq. M.P.
for this county.

The town is seen to the greatest advantage at the distance of about two
miles, on the Machynlleth road; but, like in other Welsh towns, is only
pleasing at a distance.  The prospects from a spot called the
Bowling-green are singularly fine.  The threatening summit of Cader
Idris, the northern ascent to which appears nearly perpendicular, lends
its mountain sublimity; a train of subordinate inequalities, stretching
their rugged eminences along its base.  But if the town affords so little
to gratify the curiosity of the inquisitive tourist, its neighbourhood
abounds with objects of the most interesting character.  Sir H. Hoare
asserts, that he “knows of no place in the Principality whence so many
pleasing and interesting excursions may be made, and where nature bears
so rich, varied, and grand an aspect, as at Dolgelley.”

A new road leading from Dolgelley to Towyn was recently opened, by which
the very hilly and dangerous route through Llanegryn is entirely avoided.
It passes by Penmaen Pool, Abergwynnant (the mansion of Sir H. Bunbury),
Garthangharad, Arthog, Ynysfaig, and Henddol, through the village of
Llwyngiul, where there is a very comfortable inn, called the
Garthangharad Arms.  From the bridge by Abergwynnant, a most magnificent
view of Cader Idris presents itself; and in going along the sea-coast
opposite to Barmouth, there is a delightful view of Cardigan Bay, Bardsey
Island, and the Caernarvonshire mountains.  The variety, beauty, and
extent of prospects on this road are not surpassed in any part of the
Principality.  The highway from Barmouth ferry comes into this road by
Ynysfaig.

The waterfalls in this vicinity are interesting attractions to the
tourist: these are _Rhaiadr Dû_ (the Black Cataract);
_Rhaiadr-y-Mawddach_ (the Fall of the river Mawddach); _Pistyll-y-Cain_
(the Fall of the Cain).  The first is about five, the two latter about
eight miles from Dolgelley, and all of them near the high road leading
towards Maentwrog.  These falls may be classed among the most magnificent
and picturesque cataracts of the Principality.


Y Vanner, or Kymmer Abbey,


Stands in its mouldering desolation about a mile and a half from
Dolgelley, and half a mile from Llanilltyd, near the banks of the Maw.
The ruins may be visited by the pedestrian, in his way to the waterfalls.
The abbey was founded in 1198, by Meredith and Griffith, lords of
Merioneth.  The monks were of the Cistercian order, and the abbey was
dedicated to St. Mary.  Part only of the church of this monastery is
left, and the refectory and abbot’s lodgings are built into an adjoining
farm-house.

Within a few hundred yards of the village of Llanilltyd, in this parish,
on the right of the road from Dolgelley, stands Hengwrt, the property of
Colonel Vaughan, of Rhûg, formerly the residence of Robert Vaughan, Esq.
the eminent antiquary, author of British Antiquities Revived and other
learned works.  The library here contains the largest collection of Welsh
MSS. in existence.  It was principally from the MSS. in this library that
Aneurin Owen, Esq. compiled his able Digest of the Old Welsh Laws.


Nassau Park.


About two miles from Dolgelley, is an ancient seat, formerly belonging to
the Nannau family, but now the property and residence of Sir Robert
Williames Vaughan, Bart.

The grounds of Nannau are entered under a fine gateway, the house being a
mile distant from the entrance to the park; which for picturesque beauty
and the calm grandeur of rural scenery, is not surpassed by any domain in
the Principality.  Some romantic traditions also confer additional
interest on this charming scene.  In the higher part are the remains of a
British post, called Moel Orthrwm (or the Hill of Oppression), having
probably been held by some notorious tyrant of the olden time.  Here also
once stood an immense oak, blasted and hollowed by time, in which,
according to popular belief, Owen Glyndwr inhumed the fresh-bleeding
corpse of his treacherous cousin, Howel Sele, who had been bribed to make
an attempt upon his life, where it remained concealed for forty years.
In Pennant’s time, the trunk of this patriarchal tree was twenty-seven
feet and a half in circumference; it was in the last stage of decay, and
pierced by age into the form of a Gothic arch.  Its end is thus described
by Sir Richard Colt Hoare: “During a visit to Sir Robert Vaughan, in the
summer of the year 1813, this aged tree, mentioned by Mr. Pennant,
attracted my notice; and in the morning of the 13th of July, I made a
drawing of it, on one of the most sultry days I ever felt; the succeeding
night was equally hot, and on the same night this venerable oak fell to
the ground.”

The gardens at Nannau are very extensive, and laid out with excellent
taste: they contain a number of choice exotics, and an inspection of them
proves a source of never-failing gratification to every lover of
horticultural pursuits.


Angling Stations.

      _Distances from Dolgelley_.          _Miles_.
Traws-vynydd, on the Bychan                       12
Llanvachreth                                      3½
Hendre Llwyngwr, (S. W.)                          11
Pont Dolgefiliau, on the Mawddach, (N.)            8
Dol-y-gamedd, on the Wnion                        3½
Llyn Cregenan, (S. W.)                             4
Llyn Gader                                        1½
Llyn Geirw, (S. W.)                                5
Tal-y-llyn, Cader Idris                            8

FFESTINIOG,
(_Merionethshire_.)

Caernarvon           25
Capel Curig          20
Bala                 19
Maentwrog            2½
Tan-y-Bwlch          2½
Tremadoc             13

Ffestiniog is a small but increasing village, standing on eminence at the
head of the beautiful vale of Maentwrog.  The population amounts to 1648,
principally employed in the slate quarries, about four miles from the
village.  The church is built in the ancient style of English
architecture, and dedicated to St. Michael.  A gallery has recently been
erected at the west end, containing seventy-two free sittings.  There are
also several dissenting places of worship, with Sunday schools attached.
A national school for the parishes of Ffestiniog and Maentwrog, was
opened in 1830, in a neat building erected a short distance from the
village on the Maentwrog road.  Mrs. Oakeley, of Tan-y-Bwlch, has lately
built and endowed a chapel of ease near the quarries.  It is intended for
the convenience of the inhabitants of the houses that have been built in
the vicinity of the quarries, which are upwards of four miles distant
from the parish church.

There are two good inns, the Pengwern Arms, and the Newborough Arms; at
the former, cars and post horses may be obtained; there is likewise
attached to it a very comfortable boarding-house, kept by Miss Owen.
There is a branch of the North and South Wales bank here.  The roads in
this neighbourhood have, of late, been much improved.  A rail road it now
completed for the conveyance of slates to Port Madoc, a distance of about
fourteen miles.

The scenery of Ffestiniog closely resembles that of St. Helena, and
particularly Sandy Hook Cove.  The vale which gives celebrity to this
village has been eulogized by many distinguished travellers.  Mr. Pennant
calls it the “Tempê of the country.”  Mr. Warner observes, “that it
comprehends every object that can enrich or diversify a landscape.”  Mr.
Wyndham affirms, that “it affords as rich studies for the painter, as the
neighbourhood of Tivoli or Frascati.”  And Lord Lyttelton, who visited
the place about the year 1756, is still more lavish in his encomiums.
More recent travellers have been equally enthusiastic in their admiration
of this pleasant locality.—About half a mile from Ffestiniog are the


Falls of the Cynvael.


One of these is about three hundred yards above, and the other three
hundred yards below a rustic stone bridge, three quarters of a mile
distant.  The upper fall consists of three steep rocks, over which the
water foams into a deep black basin, overshadowed by the adjoining rocks.
The other is formed by a broad sheet of water, precipitated down a
slightly shelving rock, about 40 feet high.  After the water has reached
the bottom of the deep concavity, it rushes along a narrow rocky chasm,
where rolling amid the shaggy rocks, it glistens among the scattered
fragments, and falling from slope to slope, gains a smoother bed, and
steals among the mazes of the vale.  In the pools below these falls,
there is excellent fishing, the trout and salmon being very numerous.
Between the lower cataract and the bridge is a tall columnar rock, which
stands in the bed of the river, called _Pulpit Hugh Llwyd Cynvael_ (or
Hugh Lloyd’s Pulpit.)

There are few vales which afford such delightful prospects.  Many of the
high mountains bounding its sides, are shaded by oaks, and the serpentine
Dwyryd steals placidly along the bottom through rich cultivated fields.
This river, at the bottom of the valley, receives the tide, and expands
into a wide lake-like channel, called Traeth Bychan, where it flows
through the sandy estuary of Traeth Bach, and into Cardigan bay, the sea
at a distance closing the view.

The village of MAENTWROG is delightfully situated near the middle of the
vale.—About four miles distant, among the hills, is


Cwm-orddin Lake.


This and several other lakes are notable for the excellent sport they
afford for angling.  Of these, a gentleman who is fond of this diversion,
and who has visited those parts, has kindly furnished us with the
following information:—“The fish in Cwm-orddin Lake (says he) rise more
eagerly to flies than any I ever saw.  The fish are rather small, and not
good for the table.  The two best stations for angling, are, first, where
the boat is kept; second, the head of the lake.  Throw among the weeds,
fearlessly, as they always come away with a pull.


Llyn Morwynion,


Contains excellent fish, both in size and quality, but they are very shy:
it is about two miles from Ffestiniog, near the Capel Curig road.—No
boat.


Llyn Maonod,


About two miles and a half from Ffestiniog, contains most excellent
trout, far less shy than those of Morwynion.  No boat.—There is a small
lake just below the summit of Moel Wyn, which may be tried by any one
wishing to combine a fine extensive view with sport.  No boat.—Llyn
Conway is at times difficult of access round its banks, being marshy.  No
boat.—There are two or three lakes on the right of the road to Bala.  My
opinion is, that without a boat the angler will do little on a lake.  I
would recommend, therefore, a very long rod when you must fish from
shore.  There is good salmon fishing in the river that runs past
Maentwrog.  In the beginning of June, I found the sand fly excellent for
the lakes.”



FLINT,
(_Flintshire_.)

Chester            14
Holywell            5
London            200
Mold                6

Flint is a borough, market-town, and sea-port, and a parochial chapelry
in the parish of Northop, and is the ancient capital of the county: it
contains a population of 2860 inhabitants.  Although it cannot be
identified with any Roman station mentioned in the Itineraries, it was
nevertheless either of Roman or Roman-British origin, as is proved from
the circumstance of its even now occupying a rectangular entrenched area,
like that of a Roman place of defence, and by the discovery, at various
times, both here and in the neighbourhood, of Roman coins, fibulæ, &c.,
while at the same time it is traditionally related that a very large town
existed here at an early period.

The town is situated on the shore of the estuary of the Dee, opposite to
Parkgate, to which ferry-boats ply daily from Flint.  It consists of four
principal streets, crossing each other at right angles; the buildings,
however, are very inferior in appearance.  The town-hall, and gaol where
the county prisoners are kept, are tolerable structures, but the assizes
are held at Mold, six miles distant.  Close to the town are extensive
collieries, in which several hundred men are constantly employed, and
1,500 tons of coal are raised weekly: rail-roads have been constructed to
convey the coal to the wharfs, whence it is sent coastwise to Chester,
and to various parts of North Wales.  The principal exports, in addition
to the vast quantity of coal, are the produce of the lead works in the
vicinity, consisting of lead in pigs, bars, sheets, and patent pipes; red
lead, litharge, and silver.

For the convenience of persons who visit Flint, hot baths have been
constructed, and are provided with every requisite accommodation.  The
Royal Oak and the Ship may be considered inns of the second order.  The
government of the town was vested in a mayor, the constable of the castle
(appointed by letters patent), two bailiffs, a recorder, and twelve
capital burgesses, assisted by a mace-bearer, and other officers, elected
annually, until the municipal Reform Act superseded the charters.  It is
one of the contributory boroughs, which, in conjunction with Caergwrle,
Caerwys, Overton, Rhuddlan, St. Asaph, Holywell, and Mold, return one
member to parliament.  There are daily ferry-boats plying between Flint
and Chester, at the low rate of six-pence for each passenger.


The Castle.


The remains of this ancient structure stand upon a rock in the marsh at
the bottom of the town, and so near the river, that at high water the
walls are washed by the tide.  It has been a square building, with a
tower at each angle, considerable remains of every one of which are yet
left.  The tower at the south-east corner, which is called the Double
Tower, is much larger than the others.  In its outward diameter it
measures forty feet; it is formed by two concentric walls, each six feet
thick, having a gallery eight feet wide included between them, and
leaving a circular area of about twenty feet in diameter, into which
there was an entry from the gallery by four doors.  This appears to have
been the keep.  The interior of the castle is a square court, containing
about an acre of ground.  In the curtain on the west side, there are yet
left several windows with pointed arches.

Antiquarians are undecided as to the founder of Flint castle, some
asserting that it was commenced by Henry the Second, and completed by
Edward the First; while others affirm that it was entirely the work of
the latter.  It was alternately in possession of the Welsh and English
princes during the various vicissitudes which distinguished the wars of
that period; and in 1399 was the scene of the betrayal of the unfortunate
monarch, Richard the Second, by Percy, Earl of Northumberland, into the
power of his ambitious rival, Bolingbroke, the “aspiring Lancaster.”
Under the insidious pretence that Bolingbroke, who was waiting for the
king at Flint, desired only to have his property restored, and that the
kingdom should have a parliament, Northumberland met Richard at Conway,
where he had gone after his return from Ireland; and they were journeying
together, when, among the recesses of the mountains near Penmaen Rhôs,
the latter observed a band of soldiers.  Alarmed for his safety, and now
fearful of the snare that was laid for him, he attempted to return; but
Percy, springing forward, caught his horse’s bridle, and forcibly
directed his course.  They dined together at Rhuddlan castle, and arrived
on the same evening at Flint.  The next day, “after dinner, (says Stowe)
the Duke of Lancaster entered the castle all armed, his basinet excepted.
King Richard came down to meet him; and the duke, as soon as he saw the
king, fell down on his knees, and coming near unto him, he kneeled a
second time with his hat in his hand; and the king then put off his
hoode, and spoke first: ‘Fair cousin of Lancaster, you are right
welcome.’  The duke, bowing low to the ground, answered, ‘My lord, I am
come before you sent for me; the reason why I shall shew you.  The common
fame among your people is such, that ye have for the space of twenty or
two-and-twenty years, ruled them very rigorously; but, if it please our
lord, I will help you to govern better!’  The duke then, with a high
sharp voice, bade bring forth the king’s horses, and two little nagges,
not worth fourtie franks, were brought forthe: the king was set on the
one, and the Earl of Salisbury on the other; and thus the duke brought
them from Flint to Chester;” whence, after a night’s rest, they were
marched to London, and made a public entry into the metropolis, under
those moving circumstances which are so exquisitely narrated by Shakspere
in his tragedy of Richard the Second.

In the civil wars, Flint castle was garrisoned for the king, by Sir Roger
Mostyn, and was defended with great bravery, but was at last surrendered
to General Mytton.  In August, 1646, it was ordered to be dismantled,
with Hawarden and several other fortresses, and has since fallen into
utter decay, though its ruins present towards the sea a somewhat imposing
appearance.



GRESFORD,
(_Denbighshire_.)

Chester          8
Wrexham          3

Gresford is a beautiful village, situated on the western side of the road
from Wrexham to Chester, near the head of a romantic valley, which opens
into the Vale Royal of Cheshire, a tract of country remarkable for the
richness of its soil, the beauty of its scenery, and the diversified
views which it presents.  The little vale of Gresford was one of the most
lovely in the Principality; but the fiery dragons of the Shrewsbury and
Chester Railway have now invaded its tranquil retreats, and marred the
picturesque charms of this locality.

On one of the richly wooded eminences overlooking the vale, stands
Gresford Church, a truly noble and admirable specimen of ecclesiastical
architecture, in the late perpendicular style, which was probably built
during the latter part of the reign of Henry the Seventh.  No tourist,
who has the least taste for ecclesiology, should neglect to examine this
sacred edifice, which exhibits in its construction a combination of
beauties that never fail to command the eulogiums of the intelligent and
discriminating.  Its appearance is also much enhanced by the scenery
around it, and those only who are familiar with the vicinity can feel how
admirably the church harmonises with the country.  Its melodious peal of
bells was once reckoned among the seven wonders of North Wales; but
wonders since those days have become more plentiful, and some people say
the peal is actually deteriorated.  In the churchyard is a remarkable yew
tree, 30 feet in girth, which botanists say is more than 2000 years old.
This tree attracts even as much notice as the church itself.

Deeply sheltered in the vale, is Gresford Lodge, the elegant seat of Mrs.
W. Egerton.  Upper Gwersyllt Hall, on the banks of the Alyn, was the
residence of Colonel Robinson, a distinguished partizan of the
unfortunate Charles the First, who was interred in Gresford church in
1680.  Lower Gwersyllt was occupied by another zealous adherent of that
prince, Jefferey Shakerley.

From the top of Marford Hill, on the road towards Chester, is a most
magnificent and extensive view of the vale of Cheshire, the “old city,”
and the river Dee.  In the immediate vicinity of the village, is an
eminence called the Rofts, formerly a British camp, treble-trenched,
having at one corner a lofty mount or keep.

Angling station.—The river Alyn.



HANMER,
(_Flintshire_.)

Ellesmere           5
Wrexham            10

This village, which forms a detached portion of Flintshire, takes its
name from a spacious mere or lake, in form resembling a human hand, on
one side of which the village is pleasantly situated.  It stands on the
road betwixt Wrexham and Whitchurch.  The lake occupies a space of 73
acres, on one side of which stands the family mansion of Sir John Hanmer,
and on the other the seat of Lord Kenyon.  In the church is a handsome
monument, erected in 1806, to the memory of Lord Chief Justice Kenyon,
who was born at Gredington, in the vicinity.  There is another monument
in honour of Sir Thomas Hanmer, who was Speaker of the House of Commons
in the reign of Queen Anne.

Hanmer is distinguished by the Welsh, as being the birthplace of their
celebrated bard, Davydd ab Edmund, who at an Eisteddvod, held at
Caermarthen, in 1451, won the bardic chair, and through his superior
eloquence obtained the sanction of that congress to his twenty-four
canons of Welsh poetry, by which the “science” has, in a great measure,
been governed ever since.



HARLECH,
(_Merionethshire_.)

Barmouth                          10
London                           229
Maen-Twrog                        10
Penmorfa, across sands            12
Tan-y-Bwlch                       10
Tremadoc, across sands            10
Do. through Tan-y-Bwlch           20

Harlech, or Harddlech, is an inconsiderable place, situated upon a barren
rock, containing four or five hundred inhabitants; it is the county town
of Merionethshire, and all elections for a representative in parliament
take place here.  Its name is derived from its situation, originally
called Twr Bronwen, and afterwards Caer Collwyn, from Collwyn ap Tagno,
who resided there about 877.  Harlech castle stands on a rocky eminence,
close by the marshy tract between the hills and Cardigan bay, bearing it
is said a strong resemblance to the Turkish castle of Belgrade.  It
consists of one large square building, each side measuring about 70
yards, having a round tower at the several corners, crowned with turrets
now nearly defaced.  The walls, now clad with ivy, are lofty and of great
thickness, from the summit of which a most splendid and sublime prospect
may be commanded, including a vast extent of marine and mountain scenery.

According to ancient history, this castle was built by Maelgwyn Gwynedd,
Prince of North Wales, about 530, and Edward I. founded the present
fortress upon the ruins of the old building.  It was completed in 1283.
In 1404, this castle, with that of Aberystwyth, was seized by Owen
Glyndwr, during his contest with Henry IV.  They were both retaken, about
four years afterwards, by an army which the king despatched into Wales.
Margaret of Anjou, the haughty queen of Henry VI., after the king’s
defeat at Northampton, in 1460, fled from Coventry, and found an asylum
in this fortress.

In the civil wars of Charles I. Harlech castle was the last in North
Wales which held out for the king.  Near this place is a curious antique
monument, called Coeten Arthur, or King Arthur’s Quoit, which is a large
flat stone, lying horizontally, supported by two others.  The supporters
are about twenty inches square, two of them are eight feet high, and the
incumbent stone, inclining to an oval, is eleven feet in length.  Col.
Vaughan, of Rhûg, is constable of the castle.

In the winter of 1694, this neighbourhood was greatly alarmed by a kind
of fiery exhalation, or mephitic vapour, which arose from a sandy marshy
tract of land, called Morfa Bychan (the little marsh), across the
channel, eight miles towards Harlech, and injured much of the country, by
poisoning the grass in such a manner as to kill the cattle, and to set
fire to hay and corn ricks for near a mile from the coast.  It is
represented to have had the appearance of a weak blue flame, which by any
noise, such as the firing of guns, or the sounding of a horn, was easily
extinguished.  All the damage was done invariably in the night, and in
the course of the winter not less than sixteen hay ricks and two barns,
one filled with corn and the other with hay, were burnt by it.  It did
not appear to affect anything else, and the men could go into it without
receiving any injury.  It was observed at different times during eight
months.  The occasion of this singular phenomenon has never been
satisfactorily accounted for.

In 1692, a golden torque, which is now placed amongst the admirable
collection of Welsh antiquities at Mostyn, was discovered near Harlech.
It is in the form of a wreathed bar of gold, highly polished, twisted,
and flexible.  It is hooked at both ends, and about four feet long.

From Harlech an excursion may be made to Cwm Bychan (the little hollow),
about four miles distant.—One mile from the town may be seen a circle of
stones, thirty yards in diameter, probably one of those druidic circles
in which were held the _gorseddau_, or bardic meetings.  Cwm Bychan is a
grassy dell, about half a mile in length, surrounded by desolate scenery.
On the right, at its entrance, is the small pool called Llyn y Cym
Bychan, from the edge of which Carreg y Saeth (the Rock of the Arrow),
towers in dreary blackness; yet the landscape extends hence in great
magnificence.  Descending into the hollow, past an ancient mansion, and
ascending on the other side, a deep mountain hollow occurs, called Bwlch
Tyddiad.  Passing upon this rocky cleft beyond the higher mountains, a
fine prospect of all the country eastward suddenly opens, bounded by the
majestic Cader Idris, the two Arrenigs, and other ranges of commanding
grandeur.

Out of the track, two miles south of Harlech, is a cromlech, in a farm
called Gwern Einion; and on the side of the hill, where the road passes,
in the recesses of a wood, is a considerable cataract.  Between the
cromlech and the town of Harlech is another druidic circle.

At the ebb of the tide, part of a long stone wall, which runs out into
the sea from Machran, a point of land a few miles south of Harlech, may
be seen.  It extends in a W.S.W. direction for nearly twenty miles, and
is called Sarn Badrig, or Sarn Badrwyg (the Shipwrecking Causeway), an
astonishing work, being throughout 24 feet thick.  Sarn y Bwlch runs from
a point N.W. of Harlech, and is supposed to meet the end of this.  The
space between is said to have formed, several centuries ago, a habitable
hundred of Merionethshire, called Cantref Gwaelod (the Lowland Hundred).
Those walls, as it is supposed, were built to keep out the sea.

The principal inn is the Blue Lion, where post chaises may be had, and a
guide procured to conduct the tourist to the many objects of attraction
in the neighbourhood.  The parish church having become very dilapidated,
a new one, more conveniently situated, has been built, on a site given by
the late Sir R. W. Vaughan, of Nannau.  It was consecrated in 1841; the
expense of its erection being defrayed by subscriptions, aided by grants
from the Incorporated Society for building and repairing Churches, and
from the Bangor Diocesan Church Building Society.  The service is
occasionally performed in the English language.


Angling Stations.

   _Distance from Harlech_.            _Miles_.
Llanvihangel, on the Dwyryd                         5
Llanbedr, on the Bychan                             3
_Lakes_.—Llyn y Vedw             near the Dwyryd.
      Llyn Eidaw
      Llyn Glyn
      Llyn y Cym Bychan                             5
      Llyn Trewyn.

HAWARDEN,
(_Flintshire_.)

Chester            7
Flint              8
Holywell          11
Northop            5

This prosperous little town, pronounced Harden, consists of one
continuous street, more than half a mile long, and has a neat and cleanly
appearance.  The British name was _Pennardd __Halawg_, or
_Pennardd-y-Lâg_, corrupted probably from _Pen-y-Lwch_ (the head-land
above the lake), the surrounding marshes having been once covered by the
sea.  It has a weekly market and the population of the parish is rated at
somewhat above 6000 inhabitants.  The Glynne Arms is the principal inn
where the traveller may be comfortably accommodated.

Extensive collieries are worked in this parish, and there are also
several large brick and tile works, besides numerous potteries for the
manufacture of the coarser kind of earthenware.  An extensive foundry is
carried on at Hawarden by Messrs. Williams & Co., and has become
celebrated for the manufacture of steam-engines, iron steam-boats, and
other works of mechanical science which modern enterprise has brought
into active requisition.  The river Dee, or Chester channel, passes
within about two miles of the town, and thus affords every facility of
water conveyance.

The living is a “peculiar,” in the patronage of Sir S. R. Glynne, and of
which the Rev. H. Glynne is the rector.  Its value, according to the
“Liber Ecelesiasticus,” is £2844.  The church, dedicated to St. Deiniol,
is an ancient and spacious structure, with a square embattled tower.  It
was thoroughly repaired in 1764, and the chancel was almost entirely
rebuilt in 1817, at an expense of £1400, jointly defrayed by the Hon. and
Rev. George Neville Grenville, then rector, the late Lord Amesbury, and
the inhabitants.  Various restorations and improvements have also been
effected by the present rector.

Hawarden has likewise the advantage of an endowed grammar school.  The
parish is very extensive, and besides the church just noticed, contains
three others; all in admirable condition, and remarkable for the
exemplary order and efficiency with which the services of our holy
liturgy are solemnized.  There is one at Broughton, another at Buckley,
which has lately been repaired and beautified; and a third at
Pen-y-mynydd, which is an elegant and perfect specimen of architecture.
It was built at the cost of Sir S. R. Glynne, Bart. M.P., and was
consecrated in 1843.  With each of these churches, commodious schools are
connected; and indeed, the ecclesiastical establishments, within the
peculiar of Hawarden, are worthy of all praise.  Hawarden Park, one of
the most charming and picturesque of the many noble domains scattered
through the Principality, is remarkable for the extreme verdure and
softness of its grass, the majestic stateliness of its trees, the calm
solitudes of its glens, and the combined loveliness and sublimity of its
landscape scenery.  It is also a spot of much historical interest; as
within its territory, stand the ivy-clad ruins of an ancient castle,
which, in past ages, was a fortress of great importance.

Little more than fragments of the former towers and keep remain; indeed,
a considerable portion of the ruin was itself obscured by heaps of
rubbish, till the late Sir John Glynne had them removed, and the
foundations laid open to view.  It was constructed in a pentagonal form;
on one side was a spacious gateway, and on the other a kind of barbican.
At one angle was situated the keep or citadel, a circular tower still
nearly entire, and which forms one of the most picturesque objects that
strike the eye on first approaching ‘its ancient solitary reign.’  Other
portions consist of the relics of the vast mouldering walls—of massive
_donjons_,—and, in one part, of a long flight of steps, at the bottom of
which was a door and a draw-bridge, crossing a ravine to another division
of the castle, embracing, most probably, the prison, thus fearfully
secured.

On all sides it was surrounded by deep chasms and fosses, and, from its
extensive plan and broad foundations, it has the appearance of having
been erected at different periods—of having been sometimes defaced and at
others restored, according to the vicissitudes and fortunes of war.

Dating soon after the Conquest, it came into possession of Roger
Fitzvalerine, a son of one of the adventurers who followed the Norman
Conqueror.  It was subsequently held, on the tenure of seneschalship, by
the family of Monthault, of the Earls of Chester, and finally annexed by
Henry the Third to the crown.  After this it came into the possession of
Prince Llywelyn, and was stormed by his brother David.  On the subjection
of the country, Hawarden was granted to the house of Salisbury, and
afterwards to that of Stanley.  From Thomas, Earl of Derby, it descended
to his second wife Margaret, Countess of Richmond, and mother of Henry
the Seventh.  In 1495, that monarch is stated to have honoured the castle
with a visit, to enjoy the pleasures of the chase; but his real motive
was to ingratiate himself with the Earl her husband, after the ungrateful
act of executing his brother Sir William Stanley, to whose assistance he
was mainly indebted for the crown.  The estates continued in the family
till the execution of James Earl of Derby, in 1651; and, not long after,
they were purchased by Sergeant Glynne, from the Commissioners of
Sequestration.

It was at Hawarden that the ambitious Earl of Leicester, after securing
the persons of the King and his son Edward, entered into that fatal
league with Llywelyn which compelled Henry to surrender the sovereignty
of Wales, with the homage of its baronial suffrages, which were
transferred to the Welsh prince.  In the last struggle for independence,
it was surprised by David, his brother, on the night of Palm Sunday, and
the entire garrison put to the sword.  This prince had acted with equal
perfidy towards Edward the First, his benefactor, and towards Llywelyn.

From the now broken towers of Hawarden, there is a vast and most
magnificent prospect, embracing a wide sweep of country, from the Vale
Royal of Cheshire to the estuaries of the Dee and the Mersey.

The modern mansion of Hawarden Park, the seat of Sir S. R. Glynne, Bart.
M.P., Lord Lieutenant of Flintshire, is a stately structure, erected by
Sir John Glynne in 1752.  In 1809 it received some magnificent additions,
and then assumed the form of a castellated edifice, with antique-looking
windows and turrets.  The pleasure-grounds are beautiful and extensive.

To the west of Hawarden church, in a field near to the turnpike-road, is
an artificial mount of earth, which Mr. Pennant conjectures to have been
a small camp.  Tradition says, it was raised as a fortification, to
prevent Henry the Second from advancing by this pass into Wales, in 1157.
The prospects therefrom are delightfully grand, comprehending a view of
Chester and the entire course of the silvery Dee from the old city to the
Irish channel.—About two miles from Hawarden stands


Buckley Mountain.


which has now become the thriving seat of a large population engaged in
the collieries; and in the manufacture of earthenware, draining tiles,
and fire-bricks; all of which are held in high repute, and consequently
command an extensive trade.


Ewloe Castle


is distant from Hawarden about two miles, and stands a quarter of a mile
to the right from the turnpike-road leading thence to Northop.  This
interesting and lonely ruin does not discover itself by lofty towers, but
will require some trouble to find it, as it is concealed on the east,
west, and south, by the adjoining grounds, and embosomed in trees to the
north, without any visible way of approach, save up the streamlet, which
passes at its foot, and discharges itself into the estuary of the Dee,
about two miles and a half below.  Pennant designates this structure a
small fortress, but from its present appearance it seems better
calculated for the retirement or resort of a gang of desperate marauders,
than for any military purpose.  The towers are now finely overgrown with
ivy, and command the view of three wooded glens, forming a gloomy
solitude.  The time of its erection is involved in some obscurity.—In the
woods, near this place, called to this day,


Coed Ewloe,


part of the flower of the army detached by Henry the Second, in 1157,
from his camp on Saltney, was surprised and defeated by David and Conan,
the sons of Owen Gwynedd, sent by their father with a strong party from
his camp near Basingwerk.  They suffered the enemy to march along the
straits of the country, till their forces were entangled in the depth of
the woods and the steeps of the narrow valleys.  The attack was fierce,
sudden, and unexpected: the slaughter dreadful; and the pursuit carried
even to Henry’s encampment.  This proved to the English but a prelude to
a second defeat.  The king, with intent to repair the disgrace, marched
forward with his whole army; and at Coleshill, near Flint, suffered
himself to be entrapped into the same dilemma which his detachment had
before experienced.  His forces were again defeated, and several of his
chiefs, with numbers of his men, slain.  Henry de Essex, hereditary
standard-bearer, and a man of approved valour, was seized with a panic,
and throwing down the standard, cried out the king was killed.  The route
would have been general, if the king had not valiantly rallied his
forces, and repulsed the Welsh; but in the end he thought it prudent to
withdraw his army, and encamp in a more secure situation.  He afterwards
attempted to cut off the retreat of Owen Gwynedd by marching along the
shore, and placing himself between him and the mountains; but the
sagacious prince, penetrating his views, retired to a plain near St.
Asaph, still called Cil Owen (or Owen’s Retreat), and thence to a strong
post, called Brin-y-Pin, defended by great ramparts and ditches.



HOLT,
(_Denbighshire_.)

Chester          8
Wrexham          6

A small village, on the west bank of the Dee, was once a market town, and
a place of some consequence; yet, even in its decayed and delapidated
state, it has for its governor a mayor and two bailiffs.—The two villages
of Holt and Farndon are separated only by the river, and communicate by a
bridge of ten arches, built in 1345.  The Dee at this place divides
England from Wales; Farndon being in Cheshire, and Holt in Denbighshire.



HOLYHEAD,
(_Anglesea_.)

Amlwch                       20
Bangor                       24
Beaumaris                    27
Chester                      86
Dublin                       60
London, by Chester          266

This place, which is of very remote antiquity, derives its Welsh name,
Caer Gybi, implying the fortress or city of Cybi (pronounced Kubby), from
its situation on a small island at the western extremity of Anglesea,
called Ynys Cybi, for many years the residence of a British saint of that
name, who is said to have been the son of Solomon Duke of Cornwall.  Its
population in 1841, was 3869 inhabitants.

Owing to the very extensive intercourse which now subsists between Great
Britain and Ireland, the town has, within the last few years, rapidly
increased in extent and improved in appearance.  From its advantageous
situation, it has been selected as the principal station of the
post-office packets, for conveying the mails to Dublin; and among other
improvements, a new line of road has been constructed under the walls of
the town, along the margin of the traeth, or sandy estuary, which forms
the harbour, extending more than a mile along an artificial embankment,
from the entrance of the town to the commencement of the pier.  This pier
extends from the small island, called Ynys Halen, or Salt Island, in an
east south-easterly direction into the sea, and is 360 yards in length.
It is connected with the main land by a handsome iron bridge of one arch,
dividing the centre, and each part turning on a swivel to afford a
passage on either side.  Beyond this bridge are the engineer’s house, the
custom house, the harbour-master’s offices, and the depôt for the
post-office stores: further on is a grand triumphal arch, built by
subscription of the gentry of the county of Anglesey, to commemorate the
circumstance of the royal squadron having anchored in Holyhead bay, on
the night of the 6th of August, 1821, and the landing of his majesty
George IV. on the following day.  The grand terminus of the Chester and
Holyhead railway will be on the site of the present pier, and it has been
resolved by government to make a packet station and harbour of refuge,
equal to the wants of the whole Irish channel, and upon a most extensive
and magnificent scale, from designs made by the celebrated engineer, Mr.
Rendel.  When the railway and harbour improvements are completed, the
transit between London and Dublin will be accomplished in thirteen hours.

The triumphal arch, which was opened in August, 1824, is a chaste and
elegant structure of Mona marble, brought from the Red-wharf Quarry, and
consists of a central carriage way, separated on each side by two
handsome pillars of the Doric order from a footway, enclosed by a wall
ornamented at the extremities with antæ of correspondent character, the
whole twenty feet high, and supporting a boldly projecting cornice,
surmounted by three diminishing tiers of masonry, forming a platform.
Over the carriage-way, on each side, is a large entablature, respectively
bearing inscriptions in Welsh and Latin, commemorative of the event.

The lighthouse is built entirely of hewn stone, and without any other
timber than what was necessary for the door cases and window frames.  It
consists of three stories, the ceilings of which are groined, and the
gloves are of smooth stone: its base is six feet above high water mark,
and is protected from the sea by a stone glacis.  The tower, which is
circular, is thirty-three feet in height to the gallery, and the lantern,
which is ten feet higher, is lighted with twenty brilliant lights of oil
gas, having reflectors plated with silver, and displaying a strong white
light, which, being at an elevation of fifty feet above the level of the
sea, affords a safe guide to vessels approaching the harbour.  The whole
of these works were completed at an expense of about £130,000, and a
graving dock was constructed at an additional expense of £12,000.

The post-office establishment at this place consists of six steam packets
of 230 tons burden, which sail regularly from this port and Kingstown,
keeping up a constant intercourse between the two countries.

No manufactures are carried on at this place: several attempts have been
made at considerable expense to explore the mineral treasures with which
the parish was supposed to abound, but nothing of importance has yet been
discovered, except veins of Mona marble, called “verd antique,” which
have been worked to some extent.  The trade consists chiefly in the
building of coasting vessels, the repairing of all the post office steam
packets belonging to the several ports of England and Wales, and the
making of ropes and cables.  The market is on Saturday.  The North and
South Wales bank has a branch here.

The church, dedicated to St. Cybi, is a spacious cruciform structure,
principally in the decorated style of English architecture.

The promontory called the Head, by which the harbour is sheltered from
the westerly winds, presents a singular aspect, its sides towards the sea
forming in some parts immense perpendicular precipices, while in others
they are worn, by the continued action of the waves, into caverns of
magnificent and romantic appearance.  Of these, one called the
“parliament house,” is accessible only by boats at half ebb ride, and
consists of a series of receding arches, supported by massive and lofty
pillars of rock, displaying an interior of picturesque beauty and sublime
grandeur.  Some of these caverns afford shelter for gulls, razor-bills,
herons, cormorants, and other birds; and the loftiest crags are
frequented by the peregrine falcon.  The eggs of these birds are in great
request as a delicacy for the table; and some of the hardiest inhabitants
are employed in the hazardous task of procuring them for sale.

There are several ancient military forts in the neighbourhood, whose
appearance indicates them to be of Roman origin.  At a small distance
westerly is a large hill, having several natural and artificial
curiosities.  Within about 200 yards of the top are the remains of a
strong wall, which seem to have belonged, as well as the churchyard
walls, to a place of defence against the frequent incursions of the
Irish.  To the W. S. W. of the top, and nearly under it, in a situation
awfully romantic, are the remains of a chapel.  From the top of this
mountain there is a most extensive view, comprehending the Isle of Man,
the hill of Howth on the Irish coast, and parts of the Highlands of
Scotland.

Many gold Roman coins of the time of later emperors were found a few
years ago in Holyhead mountain; and in 1835, in removing some old walls
at Ty Mawr (Great House), the property of Lord Stanley, of Alderley, were
found several spear heads, axes, and rings, of bronze, with red amber
blades, which from the form and the nature of the materials, appear to be
of Phœnician origin.  At Trefigreeth, another farm belonging to the
Stanley family, situated within a quarter of a mile of the London and
Holyhead road, about one mile from the town, is a small but perfect
cromlech.  A larger one, in great preservation, may be seen at
Presadwaedd, about four miles from Holyhead.  And at Tywyn-y-Capel, about
two miles from Holyhead, on the old post road, and close to the sea, is a
very singular mound, on the top of which, a few years ago, were the
remains of a small chapel.  The mound is artificial, being formed of sea
sand.  It is filled with graves.  The coffins are formed of rude flat
stones, and are placed in rows above each other.  They contain the
remains of persons of both sexes.  The sea every year makes encroachments
upon it, laying open the graves and strewing the shore with bones.
Tradition is silent as to the origin of this singular place of burial.
It is worth the investigation of the antiquary.

The South Stack Light-house is connected with the harbour, and materially
contributes to facilitate its access.  It is erected on the summit of an
isolated rock, three or four miles westward from Holyhead, and separated
from the main land by a chasm 90 feet in width.  This splendid structure
was raised in the year 1808.  The elevation of the summit of the rock on
which it is erected, is 140 feet above the level of the sea at high water
mark; the height of the tower, from the base to the gallery, is 60 feet;
and the lantern is 12 feet high from the gallery; making the total
elevation of the light 212 feet above high water mark.  The light is
produced by twenty-one brilliant lamps, with powerful reflectors placed
on a revolving triangular frame, displaying a full-faced light every two
minutes, which, in clear weather, is distinctly visible at a distance of
ten leagues.  Latterly there has been an addition of three red lights
placed at the rock, which are more distinctly visible in foggy weather
than the light-house lights.  The rough sea caused by the strong tides,
about the head, rendered the communication by boat very precarious.  In
order to obviate the danger, a passage was contrived by means of two
ropes thrown across the gulph, along which the individual was drawn in a
box or cradle, by the assistance of pulleys affixed at each end.  This
plan was superseded by a bridge of ropes, which was used some years
after, though always considered unsafe, on account of the constant wear
of the ropes.  In 1827, a modern suspension chain bridge was thrown over
the sound, the span of which is 110 feet, the chains being firmly bolted
in the rock on each side, and carried over two massive stone pillars
erected for the purpose.  The chain supports a platform of timber five
feet wide, and 70 feet above high water mark.  The bridge is attained by
descending the Holyhead mountain in a zigzag direction, by a flight of
380 steps.

On the rocks south of the harbour of Holyhead, and commanding the town,
an obelisk has been erected by public subscription to the memory of the
late Captain Skinner, formerly master of one of the post-office packets
on this station, who lost his life by being washed overboard in 1833.  He
was very generally respected, and had been a commander on this station
for many years.

To the N. E. is the Isle of Skerries, on which there is also a
light-house.

There are several good inns at Holyhead, the principal of which is the
Eagle and Child Hotel.

For romantic wildness and stern grandeur of aspect, no place can surpass
this portion of the iron-bound coast of Anglesea.





HOLYWELL,
(_Flintshire_.)

Chester             18
Denbigh             14
Flint                5
London             201
Mold                10
Northop              6
Rhuddlan            11
St. Asaph           10

Holywell, called by the Welsh Trêffynnon, (or the Town of the Well,) is
an improving and pleasantly-situated place, on the great road from
Chester to Holyhead; the town and parish containing a population of
10,834, with a crowded market on the Friday.

But before going into any topographical particulars, we must introduce
our readers to the legend of the miraculous well of the famous St.
Winefred, as put into an agreeable narrative by Miss Costello:—

    We stopped at a remarkably good inn, and lost no time in going down
    the steep hill at the bottom of which the pretty little chapel over
    the fine well is situated.  Nothing can be more secluded and pleasing
    than its position by the side of the handsome church with its low
    churchyard, all placed in a deep hollow, so removed from the upper
    town, that the bells summoning to prayer cannot be heard above, and a
    ringer is accustomed to go about the town with the large bell slung
    round his shoulders, and a cushion on his knee, against which the
    bell beats as he walks, and proclaims his holy errand.  This old
    custom, doubtless of considerable antiquity, is still kept up, and we
    are glad that, being there on a Sunday, we were able to see the
    perambulating belfry.

    Margaret, the mother of Henry VII., erected the graceful chapel whose
    fretted roof is the boast of Holywell, but one had existed long
    before her time; for the miracle of St. Winefred happened, according
    to the monks of the Basingwerk, to whom the world is indebted for the
    legend, early in the seventh century, and is thus told:

    Winefred, a beautiful and devout virgin, lived in the reign of an
    imaginary king, and was of noble birth, and the niece of a man whose
    sanctity had already made him conspicuous, and who was known as the
    good Beuno.  A prince of the country, whose name was Caradoc, saw the
    fair damsel, and loved her; but his passion was not so pure as her
    goodness ought to have inspired.  Even then there was a chapel at the
    foot of the hill, where, while Beuno was at the altar praying with
    certain of the inhabitants of the neighbouring town, amongst whom
    were the parents of Winefred, to the astonishment of all, a head
    rolled and bounded into the sacred inclosure, and stopped at the
    altar.  Beuno stooped to raise up the head, and observed that where
    it had rested, instead of the pool of blood which was there but an
    instant before, a stream of crystal water had sprung up.  His
    amazement was increased when he found that the beautiful features and
    golden hair of the head he gazed upon were those of his beloved
    niece.  He hastened from the spot, and mounting the hill, discovered
    her mutilated body lying prostrate, and the cruel prince Caradoc
    flying with a drawn sword in his hand.  The truth became clear to him
    at once.  Winefred had fled from the importunities of the prince who,
    pursuing, had wreaked his vengeance on her by cutting off her head.
    The saint, for such Beuno afterwards became, immediately with devout
    prayers joined the severed head to the body, when, to the awe and
    delight of all beholders, the virgin arose, as if from sleep,
    uninjured and lovely as ever, nor was there a trace left of the
    accident but a slight white mark, like a thread, round her throat.
    Beuno cursed the caitif prince, “who melted away as wax melts before
    the fire.”  Winefred lived fifteen years after this event; she
    founded a monastery at Gwytherin in Denbighshire, of which she became
    the abbess, and died there.

    Before the event of her decapitation, it seems the valley was
    particularly dry, so much so as to bear the name of _Sychnant_, {130}
    from that circumstance; therefore it was most fortunate that the head
    of the pursued damsel should have rolled where it did.  Not only did
    the spring attest the miracle, but the very moss and stones around
    have properties that enforce the belief.  The moss emits an
    odoriferous smell in testimony of the saint’s purity, and the stones
    at the bottom are stained with her blood, and keep their tint to this
    day.  It is true that some naturalists, who had not the same motive
    for keeping the world in ignorance as the monks of Basingwerk had,
    have proclaimed that the moss is only a sweet-scented plant called
    _Jungermannia asplenoides_, and that the crimson stains on the stones
    are produced by a vegetable named _Byssus jolithus_, by no means
    uncommon, thus characterised by Linnæus: “the Byssus easily betrays
    itself by giving the stones, to which it adheres, an appearance of
    being smeared with blood.  If rubbed, the plant yields a smell like
    violets.”

Fortunately, all the botanical and other students of the days of St.
Winefred were monks, who knew well how to keep their own counsel, and
turn their knowledge to their own advantage.

Our fair tourist proceeds to narrate some of the “miracles and lying
wonders,” which are said to have occurred during the removal of the
devout virgin’s corpse from Gwytherin to Shrewsbury; and then comes a
conclusion, which we suppose the devotees of the saint of the Holy Well
will regard as nothing less than “flat blasphemy.”  “After all this,”
observes Miss Costello, “it is mortifying to find that the blessed St.
Winefred never existed at all, nor was more than an Undine, a thought, a
name, a fairy of a fountain! for Gwenvrewy, as she is called in Welsh,
signifies _the white hill water_, or the _white gushing stream_, meaning
the overflowing well which Nature formed without a miracle.”

As our province is rather to describe the well itself, than to bandy
arguments about the lady whose name it bears, we may briefly state that
it is one of the most remarkable springs of water in the kingdom.

The well is an oblong square, about twelve feet by seven.  The water
passes into a small square court through an arch, under which the Roman
Catholics used to swim as an act of penance.  The quantity of water
thrown up is not less than eighty-four hogsheads every minute.  This
water has never been known to freeze, and scarcely ever varies in
quantity, either in drought, or after the greatest rains.  Though this
stream has little more than a mile to run before it arrives at the sea, a
great number of mills, forges, and other works are kept in motion by it,
three of which are placed abreast.

The sacred well is the object of many pilgrimages, even in this day, and
several modern miracles are related of the influence of its waters.  Pope
Martin the fifth especially enjoined such pilgrimages, and the monks of
Basingwerk were furnished with pardons and indulgences to sell to the
devotees.  James the Second visited the well in 1686; and Leopold, king
of the Belgians, in 1819.

Apart from all superstitious notions, its waters doubtless possess many
sanative properties.

The authoress of the new romance of “Llywelyn’s Heir,” says with
reference to this charmed place: “We would recommend any strangers to the
spot to visit it, should an opportunity offer, and judge with their own
eyes of the lightness and beauty of the tall pointed arches and the
flying buttresses that adorn the exterior; and to decide whether the
interior is not even more worthy of notice.  The well, into which the
miraculous stream pours forth its astounding body of water, is polygonal;
the columns that rise above it are singularly beautiful, and after many
serpentine wanderings, meet and form a canopy worthy of the water-king,
who doubtless frequently holds there his court.  The legend of the saint,
and beautiful carvings in stone are scattered around; but they appear to
have been placed there to do honour to the house of Stanley, and not to
the saint—by no means an astonishing circumstance, for the saint had been
long dead, and was probably tired of working miracles; and the Stanleys
were living, and willing to bestow munificent gifts, of which this
building and the chapel above it remain memorials to this day.”

The church, dedicated to St. Winefred, and rebuilt in 1769, is a rather
spacious structure of Grecian architecture, 68 feet long by 56 wide;
consisting of a nave with north and south aisles, with a chancel, in
which is a window embellished with modern stained glass.  It has also two
large galleries over the aisles, and the whole is calculated to contain
about 3,000 persons.  Remains of the ancient edifice are still seen in
the remarkably plain pillars on each side of the nave.  It contains
several monuments and tablets, and amongst them one by Westmacott,
erected to the memory of Paul Panton, Esq.

Under the chancel are the vaults of the Mostyns of Talacre, the Pennants
of Downing, and the Pantons of Bagillt; in the chancel is a neat
cenotaph, in memory of Mary, mother of the late Edward Pennant, Esq.  On
the wall, at the end of the same aisle, is a flat stone with twelve
quarterings, copied from those over the chimney-piece in the dining-room
at Mostyn.

In rebuilding the church, the headless figure of a priest was found in
his sacerdotal habit, and with a chalice in his hand.  He is supposed to
have been Thomas, second son of Thomas ap David, abbot of Basingwerk.
This headless trunk is often exhibited to the wondering as the image of
the blessed St. Winefred!  The service is alternately English and Welsh,
and at night there are English lectures.  Holywell contains several
meeting-houses for the various denominations of dissenters.  A new Roman
Catholic chapel has lately been erected.

The environs, which are studded with numerous handsome residences and
gentlemen’s seats, abound with richly diversified scenery; and from the
higher grounds are obtained extensive and varied prospects over the
surrounding country, which is rich in picturesque beauty.  The air is
salubrious, and the opportunities of cold and sea-bathing, render it not
only a pleasant place of permanent residence, but also of occasional
resort for invalids, for whose comfort every accommodation is provided,
with the benefit of good medical advice, and the advantage of numerous
pleasant rides and walks in the immediate neighbourhood.—There are
several good inns in the town, the principal of which are, the White
Horse, King’s Arms, King’s Head, and the Red Lion.

For many ages, the copious stream of St. Winefred served only to turn a
corn-mill belonging to Basingwerk abbey, and it was not till the year
1777 that Holywell began to emerge from obscurity, when Mr. Smalley
introduced the cotton manufacture, and erected a mill on a principle
similar to that of one built at Cromford, by Sir Richard Arkwright.  Soon
after this, Mr. Smalley was joined by an opulent company from Lancashire,
and erected, in 1783, a larger mill, now called the upper mill, which
worked 12,218 spindles; the same company, in 1787, built the lower mill,
adapted to the working 7492 spindles, and in 1791, the crescent mill, in
which 8286 spindles were kept in motion.  These mills were applied to the
spinning of cotton thread, of which 26,098lb was produced on an avenge
weekly, furnishing employment to nearly one thousand persons.  A great
part of that trade has now left Holywell, and the buildings are applied
to other branches of manufacture.

There are, upon the same stream, several extensive copper mills, for
rolling sheet copper, the manufacture of every description of copper
vessels, copper bolts used in ship-building, and copper cylinders: there
is also a mill for drawing copper wire, &c.  Besides these, there are a
large iron foundry, a paper mill, and zinc works.

The district immediately around Holywell, is pre-eminently distinguished
for the richness of its mineral treasures, and particularly for its mines
of lead and calamine, which appear to have been worked from the earliest
period, and continue still to form an almost inexhaustible source of
wealth.


Basingwerk Abbey,


(Or Maes-glâs), called also Greenfield Monastery, is beautifully situated
in a meadow, about a mile east of Holywell among rich meadows, commanding
a fine view of the Cheshire shore, with a profusion of spreading
sycamores, and groves of ancient trees on all sides.  Its time-worn and
crumbling ruins are, from some points of view, highly picturesque.

The little at present left of the abbey is scarcely sufficient to
indicate its former extent.  The church, which stood on the east side, is
totally destroyed.

Near to the abbey, a castle formerly reared its towers, but of this
scarcely a vestige remains visible.  Close to this spot also runs the
celebrated Watt’s Dyke, which terminates at the Dee below.  It is clearly
traced hence through Northop, Hope, Wrexham, and the grounds of Wynnstay,
to Maesbury, near Oswestry, where it ends.—About three miles north-west
of Holywell, is


Downing,


The seat of Viscount Fielding, who married, in June 1846, Miss Pennant,
the heiress to the estate.  The present house was built, probably on the
site of an older mansion, in 1627, but has lately undergone great
improvements.  This hall was the birth-place and residence of the
celebrated author, Mr. Thomas Pennant, whose antiquarian and
topographical researches form an important contribution to the historical
records of the country.  The walks are agreeable and diversified,
particularly in the immediate vicinity of the mansion, which is
approached by a rural path, winding through a beautiful and well-wooded
dingle.  Much taste is displayed in the landscape gardening and
horticultural arrangements of this little paradise.—About a mile and a
half north-west of Downing, on the summit of a lofty hill, stands


Mynydd-y-Garreg,


An ancient circular building of great height, in form not much unlike a
windmill.  It is a _pharos_, or Roman light-house, erected by that people
to conduct navigators to and from the Deva.  It is tolerably entire, and
built of lime-stone, bedded in hard mortar.  The antiquary will not
begrudge a walk to examine this ancient relique bequeathed to us by the
conquerors of the world.—Two miles north-west of Downing, lies the
ancient structure of


Mostyn Hall,


The property and residence of the Hon. Edward Mostyn Lloyd Mostyn, M.P.,
nephew of the late Sir Thomas Mostyn, and heir apparent of Lord Mostyn,
of Pengwern.  The house is approached by a magnificent gateway, called
Porth Mawr, erected at the termination of a venerable avenue of forest
trees, leading to one vestibule of the mansion, which stands in a small
but beautiful and well-wooded park, about half a mile from the estuary of
the Dee.  The mansion is worth the attention of the tourist and
antiquary.  It is of the Elizabethan age, though built upon the site of a
former house erected in the reign of Henry the Sixth.  In the spacious
hall are several specimens of armour and implements of warfare previous
to the introduction of fire-arms.  The rooms are literally crowded with
family portraits, by the old masters, the principal of which are Sir
Roger and Lady Mostyn.  There are several fine portraits of Charles the
First, including an original by Vandyke.  In the dining-room, the
sideboard is formed of one piece of plank, quite a curiosity; it is
nearly six feet wide, and twelve feet long; and is hewn, not sawed.  The
tapestry parlour is beautiful.  The mansion is noted for the maintenance
of English hospitality after the manner of “the olden time.”

During the time that Henry, Earl of Richmond, was secretly conspiring the
overthrow of the house of York, he passed concealed from place to place,
in order to form an interest among the Welsh, who favoured his cause on
account of their respect to his grandfather, Owen Tudor, their
countryman.  While he was at Mostyn, a party attached to Richard the
Third arrived there to apprehend him.  He was then about to dine, but had
just time to leap out of a back window, and make his escape through a
hole, which to this day is called the King’s Window.  Richard ap Howel,
then Lord of Mostyn, joined Henry at the battle of Bosworth: and after
the victory, received from the King, in token of gratitude for his
preservation, the belt and sword he wore on that day.

There are many curious objects of antiquity at Mostyn, including a golden
torque found at Harlech; a silver harp, in the possession of the family
since 1568; the Mostyn pedigree; and the largest private collection of
Welsh manuscripts in the Principality.  The Gloddaeth library and
manuscripts, as well as similar literary stores from other mansions of
this family, have been brought here; for the reception of which, the hon.
proprietor has erected a library worthy of the collection.

To the treasures of Mostyn has also been added a splendid candelabrum
valued at one thousand guineas, presented by the political friends of the
Hon. Mr. Mostyn, who, on the day of the presentation, October 31, 1843,
entertained the subscribers, amounting to several hundreds, in a manner
worthy of the best days of the ancient, princely, loyal, and hospitable
house of Mostyn.



LLANASA,
(_Flintshire_.)

Holywell           6½
Rhuddlan            6
St. Asaph          10

The village of Llanasa is situated in a pleasant valley at the northern
extremity of the county, on the south-western shore of the estuary of the
Dee.  The church has two east windows, in the more ancient of which is
some fine stained glass, brought from Basingwerk abbey.  The church-yard
contains some curious tomb-stones.—In the neighbourhood are several
genteel residences, and about two miles from the village is


Talacre,


the seat of Sir Pyers Mostyn, a branch of the family of the Mostyns of
Mostyn.  The old house was built in the time of James the First; but when
the late baronet came into possession of the estate, it was razed to the
ground for the purpose of building another mansion on its site.  The
first stone of the new house was laid by Sir Edward Mostyn, on the 31st
day of July, 1824.  When the shell was completed, part of it was burnt
down by an accidental fire on the night of the 11th of September, 1827;
but it was soon rebuilt, and finished in a magnificent style.  The house
is an old English mansion, of truly handsome appearance, erected after a
design and under the superintendence of Mr. T. Jones, architect, of
Chester.—Within a short distance of Llanasa, and situated on an eminence
near the confluence of the Dee with the Irish Sea, is


Gyrn,


built by the late John Douglas, Esq.  It is a building in the castellated
style of English architecture, having several lofty and elegant towers,
from the summit of which the view is very extensive, commanding the
surrounding hills, and those of Yorkshire, Derbyshire, and Staffordshire;
the Isle of Man, Beeston Castle, Chester, and Liverpool, are also
discernible; and, in the opposite direction, a small part of the
Snowdonian chain may be observed.—About a mile from Llanasa, is


Golden Grove,


the admired residence of Edward Morgan, Esq., erected in 1578; but it has
been considerably improved and enlarged within the last forty years.  The
house occupies a sheltered situation among the hills, whence the prospect
is extensive and pleasing.



LLANBERIS,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Beddgelert           12
Caernarvon           10
Capel Curig          10
Dolbadarn             2

This village, situated on the road between Caernarvon and Capel Curig,
derives its name from the dedication of its church to St. Peris, a
British, or, as some affirm, a Roman saint, who had been a cardinal of
Rome, and is said to have resided in this celebrated spot with Padarn, an
anchorite about the sixth century, who had a cell or small chapel, in a
meadow between Dolbadarn castle, and old Dolbadarn inn, now called the
“Snowdonia.”

The church, situated in a deeply sequestered glen about half a mile above
the upper lake, is a small, low structure, of the most primitive
character.

Near the church is the well of St. Peris, formerly famed for its
miraculous efficacy in the cure of diseases, and therefore a place of
resort with pilgrims and devotees.

The parish of Llanberis is very large in extent, and is divided into two
districts or townships, viz. Nant-ucha’, alias Nant-Peris, and Nant-isa’,
alias Nant-Padarn, and comprises several of the loftiest mountains in the
Principality, besides numerous natural objects worthy the research of the
curious.

The village of Llanberis is romantic in the extreme.  It lies in a narrow
grassy glen, surrounded by immense rocks, whose cloud-capped summits are
seldom visible to the inhabitants below.  All the parts immediately
surrounding the village were formerly covered with wood; but, except some
saplings from the old roots, there are at present very few trees left.
In the memory of persons lately living, there were great woods of oak in
several parts of these mountains.  In the tenth century the whole country
must have been nearly covered with wood, for one of the laws of Howel Dda
(Howel the Good) directs that “whoever cleared away timber from any land,
even without the consent of the owner, he should, for five years, have a
right to the land so cleared; and after that time it should again revert
to the owner.”

The Pass of Llanberis presents a scene of wild grandeur and fearful
sublimity, of the most impressive and majestic character.

Amidst the vast ranges of these British Alps, are two beautiful lakes.
The upper one at Llanberis, called also Llyn Peris, is about a mile in
length, and nearly half of one in breadth; the depth is said, in places,
to be one hundred and forty yards.  The other, called Llyn Padarn, is
about a mile and a half long, but so narrow as to assume rather the
appearance of a river than a lake.  Between these, a communication is
formed by a stream, and out of the lower issues the river Seiont, which,
after flowing in an irregular diffused manner, discharges itself into the
Menai at Caernarvon.  At the foot of the lower lake is a rural and
picturesque stone bridge, leading to a most perfect Roman station, called
Dinas Dinorwic, partly natural and partly artificial.  It is in fine
preservation.


Dolbadarn,


(Or Padarn’s Meadow), so called from Padarn, a British saint of obscure
note.  Since the opening of the new line of road from Caernarvon to Capel
Curig, Llanberis has become the principal resort of parties visiting
Snowdon.  In addition to the spacious and comfortable inn at Dolbadarn, a
new and more commodious house, the Royal Victoria Hotel, has been erected
at the expense of T. A. Smith, Esq., near Dolbadarn castle, for the
accommodation of the increased number of visitors whom this truly
interesting district draws together in the summer months.  The hotel is
in a most eligible situation, at the junction of the two lakes, and
within a few hundred yards of Dolbadarn castle, about two miles from the
village of Llanberis, on the road from Caernarvon.  Every facility for
ascending Snowdon is here provided.

The castle, standing near the junction of the two lakes of Llanberis, is
the only one that remains in the narrow passes of North Wales.  As it was
impossible for an enemy to climb the chain of mountains, which are a
guard to Caernarvonshire and Anglesea, and as there were five narrow
passes, the British secured each with a castle: this was the central one.
Owen Gôch was here confined upwards of twenty years, for having joined in
a rebellion against his brother Llywelyn ap Gruffydd, the last prince of
Wales.  It seems to have been long in ruins, for in Leland’s time there
was only part of a tower left.  The key of the castle is kept at the
Victoria Hotel, and may be had by tourists on application.

The view hence is remarkably splendid, embracing the lakes, which extend
nearly three miles, the various interesting objects by which they are
surrounded, and the immense chains of rugged mountains that bound the
vale.  The view from the lake is also finely picturesque.

About half a mile south of the castle, at the end of a deep glen, there
is a tremendous cataract, called


Ceunant Mawr,


(The Waterfall of the Great Chasm.)  It is upwards of sixty feet in
height, and is formed by the mountain torrent from Cwm Brwynog, which
rushes through a cleft in the rock above, and after coming in a direct
line, suddenly takes a turn with the broad stratum of the rock, and thus
descends aslant, with a thundering noise, into the deep black pool below.

On the declivity of the mountain, and nearly opposite Dolbadarn castle,
on the eastern side of the lake, are extensive slate quarries, the
property of Thomas Assheton Smith, Esq., situated high among the rocks.
The mode of conveying the slates down the almost precipitous descent, to
the margin of the lake, was formerly singularly awkward, and apparently
very dangerous.  The carts, each conveying about one ton of slates in
winter, and two in summer, were drawn down a serpentine path by one horse
in front, and one hooked on behind, to counteract the rapidity of motion
which otherwise would endanger the whole.  From the lake the slates were
carted in great quantities to the Menai, whence they were shipped to
Ireland, Liverpool, America, &c.  To avoid this great labour and danger,
a railroad has been made from the quarries down to the shipping place at
Velin Heli, on the Menai, a distance of about nine miles.  By this road,
the slates are conveyed down, at an average, it is said, of about 100
tons daily throughout the year.  At this place of activity, generally
designated by the name of “Dinorwic Slate Quarry,” above a thousand men
are usually employed.

On the opposite side of the lake, and nearer to Caernarvon, at a place
called Glyn Rhonwy, is another quarry, the property of Lord Newborough,
worked by from 150 to 200 men; and the slates are conveyed by carts to
Caernarvon.

This little valley can also boast of its mineral treasures.  A valuable
copper mine is situated on the side of the upper lake, about half a mile
from the village.  A stream of water, for the use of the mine, is
conveyed along the mountain on each side, and over the road, just at the
head of a lake, by means of a wooden conduit, supported by piers.  The
ore obtained is, in general, what is termed rich, on an average worth
from £20 to £25 per ton; but the value consequently varies with the price
of copper.

About two miles above Llanberis church, on the Capel Curig road, there is
an immense stone, that has once been precipitated from above, called


The Cromlech. {140}


This stone is of some thousand tons weight, and many times larger than
the celebrated mass of rock in Barrowdale, called Bowdar Stone.  It lies
in a place called Ynys Hettws (Hetty’s Island); and two of its sides
meeting at an angle with the ground, it was once used as the habitation
of an old woman, who in summer resided in the vale to feed and milk her
cows.  The enclosures are yet nearly entire, and are sometimes used as a
sheepfold.


Gorphwysfa,


(The Resting Place), the top of the ascent between Llanberis and Capel
Curig, four miles from the former, overlooks the glorious prospects
before noticed.  It also commands a view into the mountain pass which
joins Nant Hwynan and the vale of Capel Curig.  The vale of Llanberis is
narrow and almost straight, nearly filled with two lakes, connected by a
canal called Bala ’r Ddeulyn (the Junction of the two Lakes), celebrated
(previous to the opening of the copper mines) for the abundance of the
red and golden char.  These fish are still caught in the lakes, though
not so plentifully as formerly; the char is taken about the middle of
September.


Angling Stations.

The upper and lower lakes      (Bad sport).
Llyn Cwm Dwythog               2 miles from Dolbadarn inn.
Llyn Llydan                    5 — on Snowdon.
Glaslyn                        on the west of ditto.

LLANDEGAI,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Aber                  3½
Bangor                 2
Conway                10
Port Penrhyn           2

Near to the grand entrance to Penrhyn Park, are the much admired church
and little village of Llandegai, hidden from the immediate view by a high
wall, extending some yards in the front.  The parish is more than fifteen
miles in length, from the shore of the Menai straits far into the
mountainous regions of Snowdon, including a wide district, abounding with
almost every species of mineral treasure.  The scenery of the
neighbourhood is beautifully picturesque and impressively grand,
comprehending on one hand a vast amphitheatre of mountains, and on the
other a fine view of the Menai Straits.

The church is one of the neatest in the Principality, in the form of a
cross, having a tower in the centre.  Its style is Gothic, and it is
supposed to have been erected about the reign of Edward the Third.
Within the church is a mural monument to the memory of John Williams,
lord keeper of the great seal in the reign of James the First, who died
at Gloddaeth, and was interred in this church in 1650.  He is represented
in his episcopal dress, kneeling at the altar.  There is also an elegant
marble monument erected to the memory of the late Lord and Lady Penrhyn,
executed by Westmacott.  On one side it is supported by a female peasant,
deploring the loss of the deceased, and on the other by a quarry-man,
holding an iron bar and a slate knife, earnestly reading the inscription
which commemorates his benefactor.  Beneath are smaller figures, the
first representing a boy feeding his goats on the mountains, emblematical
of the state of the country when his lordship commenced his improvements;
the second, two boys working in a slate quarry, emblematical of industry;
the third is, one boy teaching another to read the Bible, emblematical of
religious education; and the fourth, three boys with sickles in a wheat
field, denoting plenty.  Lord Penrhyn died in 1806.

The following is a translation of the somewhat curious Latin inscription
on the monumental record of the renowned Archbishop and Lord Chancellor
Williams:—“Sojourner, read, and in these few words, particularly observe
that which you would not expect to find in this obscure chapel.  Here
lies buried John Williams, the most renowned of prelates, descended by
his father’s lineage from the Williams’s of Cochwillan, and by his
mother’s from the Griffiths of Penrhyn, whose great parts and eminence in
all kinds of learning raised him first to the deanery of Sarum, and
afterwards advanced him to that of Westminster by the favour of King
James.  At one and the same time he was the most intimate favourite of
and privy councillor to that great king, lord keeper of the great seal of
England, and bishop of the see of Lincoln, whom Charles the First
honoured with the archiepiscopal mitre of York.  He was thoroughly versed
in all sciences—a treasury of nine languages—the very soul of pure and
undefiled theology—an oracle of political tact—the very acmé and ornament
of wisdom, whether sacred, canonical, civil, or municipal.  His
conversation was engagingly sweet—his memory more tenacious than human—a
repository of all species of history—expended in magnificent edifices the
sum of £20,000,—an exemplary pattern of liberality, munificence,
generosity, hospitality, and compassion for the poor.  In those
lamentable times which followed, being worn out with the things which he
saw and heard, when, by reason of the fury of the rebels, he could no
longer serve his king nor his country, having lived 68 years, on the 25th
of March, which was his birthday, with strong faith in Christ, and
steadfast allegiance to his king, he most devotedly resigned his soul to
God, dying of a quinsy.  It matters little that so small a monument,
placed in this obscure spot, preserves the memory of so great a man,
since years and ages shall never cease to celebrate his virtues.  He died
25th March, A.D. 1650.

“Pass on, traveller, it is enough, your curiosity is gratified.”

The ancient family residence, Cochwillan, is within a short distance of
the church, and remains in much the same condition as when, “broken by
the storms of state,” the good prelate here sought his final
resting-place on earth.



LLANDUDNO,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Abergele          16
Conway             5

Llandudno old church is situated near the promontory of Ormeshead, which
forms the eastern boundary of the entrance into Beaumaris Bar.  It has
the appearance from the sea of a dilapidated cow-house.  A new church has
been erected on the side of the promontory, where the inhabitants
principally reside.  There are here several very valuable and extensive
copper mines.  The cliffs towards the sea are lofty and abrupt; and the
whole scene wild and romantic in the extreme.

On the centre of the mountain is a rocking stone, called Crŷd Tudno (or
the Cradle of St. Tudno); and on an eminence are the ruins of a large
square building, of which the walls, apparently constructed without
mortar, lie scattered in various directions.  On the highest part of the
promontory, and near the Great Ormeshead, a signal staff has been
erected, communicating with Llysfaen on the east, and Puffin Island on
the west, forming thereby a post of communication between Liverpool and
Holyhead.  These hills and the neighbouring woods of Gloddaeth abound in
rare and curious plants.  The rock just above the village of Llandudno is
the only habitation in Britain of the _cotoneaster vulgaris_, which grows
here abundantly.

The parish of Llandudno contains six hundred and sixty-two inhabitants.



LLANEDWEN,
(_Anglesea_.)

Llanidan            2
Moel-y-Don          3

Llanedwen is a small village where Henry Rowlands, the learned author of
Mona Antiqua Restaurata, was interred.  He was instituted to the vicarage
of this place in October, 1696, and died 1723.  He lies under a black
slab of Anglesea marble, in the south part of the church.



LLANELIAN,
(_Anglesea_.)

Amlwch              8
Beaumaris          20

This is a small village on the eastern coast of Anglesea.  The church,
dedicated to St. Elian, is supposed to have been founded by the patron
saint about 540; and adjoining to it is a small chapel, of very ancient
foundation, measuring in its interior twelve feet by fifteen, called
Myfyr, _the confessional_.  A curious closet of wood, of an hexagonal
form, called St. Elian’s closet, is yet left in the east wall, and is
supposed to have served both the office of a communion table, and as a
chest to contain the vestments and other utensils belonging to the
chapel.  Near to the door is placed Cyff Elian (Elian’s Chest), or
poor-box.  Superstitions devotees out of health send their offerings to
the saint, which are put through a hole into the box.

At Point Lynas, near this place, a light-house of considerable dimensions
has been erected.



LLANERCH-Y-MEDD,
(_Anglesea_.)

Amlwch               6
Beaumaris           17
Holyhead            16
London             263

Llanerch-y-medd is a considerable town, with a market on Wednesday,
deriving its importance chiefly from its proximity to the Parys mountain,
on the northern side of Anglesea.  Here are the leading fairs for
Anglesea oxen, and the south country dealers attend to make their
purchases for the Kent and Sussex pastures.  An establishment has been
opened in this town for the manufacture of snuff, in imitation of the
celebrated Lundy Foot, of Dublin.  There is a small but comfortable inn
here.

Within one mile of the town is Llwydiaeth, the hospitable mansion of W.
P. Lloyd, Esq.  At a small distance is a rocking stone, held in great
sanctity by the bards as a druidical remain.



LLANERVUL,
(_Montgomeryshire_.)

Dolgelley            24
Llanfair              5
Machynlleth          25
Mallwydd             13
Newtown              14
Welshpool            12

This interesting little village is pleasantly situated on the banks of
the river Banwy, and at the lower extremity of a narrow vale of about
seven miles in length.  The Cross Foxes Inn affords good accommodation.
The situation of the village, being on the turnpike-road from Shrewsbury
to Machynlleth and Dolgelley, causes it to be much enlivened in the
summer season, by coaches passing through, conveying travellers to the
bathing places at Aberystwyth and Barmouth.

The parish, extending nearly eight miles in length, and about three in
breadth, is divided into six townships, comprising a population of about
1000, chiefly employed in agriculture.  The lands are but partially
enclosed and cultivated, the hilly parts affording only pasturage for
sheep, young cattle, and Welsh ponies, during the summer; but the soil of
the lower grounds is tolerably fertile, and when properly cultivated, is
capable of producing grain of every kind.  Within this parish, on the
mountains, are several lakes of considerable extent and depth, and some
of them containing great abundance of fish, chiefly trout and eels.

The most ancient manor-house in these parts is Neuadd-wen (the
White-hall).  This was formerly the seat of Meredydd ab Cynan, brother of
Gruffydd ab Cynan, Prince of North Wales, who served the Princes of
Powys, and was termed Lord of Rhiw-hiriaeth, Coedtalog, and Neuadd-wen.
Some genealogists say that he was Meredydd ab Cynvyn, and brother to
Bleddyn ab Cynvyn, Prince of Powys.  The estate of Neuadd-wen was divided
and subdivided according to the custom of gavel kind, until the time of
Evan ab Owen, the last of the line of Meredydd ab Cynan, whose two
daughters were married, the one to the Llwydiarth family, the other to
that of Newtown Hall.  In a heap of rubbish, at the back of the present
farm-house of Nauadd-wen, were found pieces of free stone, with
mouldings, which appeared to be the ruins of an arched window.  The
building seemed to have been Gothic, according to the taste of the
eleventh and twelfth century.  It is probable that the name of Neuadd-wen
was given to the new structure, for there is a tradition that its former
appellation was Llŷs Wgan, which is corrobarated by the fact, that a
rivulet near the house is still called Nant Wgan.

Adjoining Neuadd-wen lies the capital farm of Llysyn, formerly the estate
of Ieuan ab Bedo Gwyn, descendant of a cadet branch of the family of
Neuadd-wen.  This estate was afterwards purchased by the Herberts, and
made the residence of some branch of that family, ancestors to the
present Earl of Powys.  The name of Llysyn seems to be a contraction of
Llŷs-dyddyn (the Court-farm).  Probably, the Princes of Powys had here a
court of judicature.

This parish contains the vestiges of several tumuli, forts, and ramparts,
such as those at Moel-y-ddolwen, Gardden, Rhôs-y-gallt, &c.; but the most
singular vestige of antiquity here is that of the Roman causeway, called
Sarn-Sws, or Sarn-Swsen, which leads from the old Roman station of
Caer-Sws, near Llanidloes, to Chester; or as some will have it, from
Caerllëon-ar-Wysg, in Monmouthshire, to Caerllëon-ar-Ddyfr-dwy, or
Chester on the Dee.  This road enters the parish of Llanervul on the
hills of the Drum, and thence descends through the farms of Cae’r-Bacha,
Cynniwyll, &c., and crosses the river Banwy below Neuadd-wen, and then up
Craig-y-gô, whence it proceeds through the parish of Llanvihangel; and
Dr. Worthington says it might be traced through the parish of
Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant, at Street-Vawr, near Coed-y-Clawdd, over
Rhôs-y-brithdir, to Pen-y-Street, and thence to Llamiwrch, &c.  In some
places the pavement may be found a little below the surface.

The church of Llanervul is dedicated to Urval Santes, a female saint,
whose pedigree is not known: some suppose that the ancient tomb-stone in
the church-yard was erected to her memory, but the inscription by no
means corroborates that supposition.

Mrs. Priscilla Forster, a descendant of the family of the Herberts of
Llysyn, bequeathed £300 for the instruction of the poor children of the
parish: this sum was invested in the purchase of a farm near the village,
now considered worth £35 per annum, which is appropriated agreeably to
the intentions of the benevolent testatrix.



LLANFAIR, {146}
(_Anglesea_.)

Llangefni           5
Pentraeth          2½

This village is celebrated as the birth-place of Goronwy Owen, of whom a
Welsh author has said that “he was the greatest genius either of this
age, or that ever appeared in our country; and perhaps few other
countries can boast his equal for universal knowledge.”  He was born in
1722, had the rudiments of his education at the grammar-school of Bangor,
whence, in 1741, he went to Oxford.  Four years afterwards he received
holy orders at Bangor, and became curate to the Bishop at Llanfair.  He
successively held the curacy of Donnington, near Shrewsbury, and Walton,
near Liverpool: but having only a slender income, and being disappointed
in his hopes of preferment, he emigrated to America.  The taste, manners,
and morals of the Virginians were offensive and disgusting to this son of
sorrow.  He lost by death his wife and children, all but one boy; and he
himself, while but comparatively a young man, sank to the grave under the
pressure of accumulated misfortunes.  To a perfect acquaintance with the
Latin and Greek languages, he added a knowledge of the Hebrew, Chaldee,
Arabic, and Syriac.  His Latin odes have been universally admired for the
purity of their language, and for the elegance of their expression.  As a
Welsh poet he ranks superior to all since the days of Dafydd ap Gwilym.
Those parts of his works which have been printed are considered as
perfect models of Welsh poetry.  It has been lately stated that a
grandson of the bard is now living in the United States, and is a member
of the congress.



LLANFAIR,
(_Montgomeryshire_.)

Can-Office              7
Dinas-Mowddwy          18
Mallwyd                16
Newtown                10
Oswestry               20
Welshpool               8

Llanfair, or Llanfair-Caer-Einion, a small market town pleasantly
situated on the declivity of an eminence, rising from the south bank of
the small river Banwy, which falls into the Vyrnwy, and on the turnpike
road leading from Welshpool to Machynlleth and Dolgelley, containing 2687
inhabitants.  It has a church dedicated to St. Mary, an ancient
structure; and five places of worship for dissenters.  The Vyrnwy abounds
with such a quantity and variety of fish, as justly to entitle it to the
name of _amnis piscosus_.  The inhabitants of this place are said to
excel in the practice of spearing fish.


Angling Stations.

Myfod (Meivod)      5 miles on the Vyrnwy.
Llangynyw           2½ „
Llanervul           5 „

LLANFYLLYN,
(_Montgomeryshire_.)

London              178
Mallwyd              20
Oswestry             14
Shrewsbury           25
Welshpool            12

A market town of some note, situate in a fertile valley on the banks of
the river Cain, surrounded by lofty hills.  The market is held on
Thursday.  Population, 1955.

In the centre of the town stands the church, which was erected when the
excellent Dr. Beveridge was bishop of the diocese; it is a neat brick
building, dedicated to St. Myllyn.  The peal of bells surpasses any in
the county.  Here are three endowed schools; and a good town hall was
built in 1775.

Bôd Fach, near this town, the seat of Lord Mostyn, was once the residence
of his paternal ancestors, the Kyffins.  The markets and fairs of
Llanfyllyn are well attended, particularly for the purchase of Welsh
merlins, which are brought here for sale in great numbers.



LLANGEFNI,
(_Anglesea_.)

Beaumaris                12
Llanerch-y-Medd           7
Menai Bridge              7
Mona Inn                  3

This is a small but neat market town centrally situated in the island.
The markets and fairs are of considerable importance.  It is one of the
contributory boroughs; the present M.P. being Col. Paget.  There is a
neat church under the hill, and the town is romantically situated.  The
principal inn is Pen-y-bont.

Tregarnedd, now only a farm-house, but once the residence of Ednyfed
Vychan, an able chieftain to Llywelyn the Great, is in this parish.

About three miles distant on the Llanerch-y-medd road is Tregaian, the
residence of Vice-Admiral Lloyd.  Not far off is Maen Rhos Rhyfel, where
Owen Gwynedd obtained a signal victory over an invading army of Erse,
Manksmen, and Normans.  The population of Llangefni is 1753.

                       [Picture: Llangollen bridge]



LLANGOLLEN,
(_Denbighshire_.)

Chester            23
Chirk               7
Corwen             10
London            183
Oswestry           12
Ruabon              6
Ruthin             15
Wrexham            12

The name of this place is derived from the dedication of its church to an
ancient British saint named Collen, whose lineage runs thus, in names
almost unpronounceable by Saxon tongues—St. Collen ap Gwynnawg ap Clydawg
ap Cowrda ap Caredog Freichfras ap Llyr Merim ap Einion Yrth ap Cunededd
ap Wledig.  The town, which is beautifully situated in a deep narrow
valley, enclosed by lofty mountains, and watered by the noble stream of
the Dee, appears anciently to have been protected by the neighbouring
fortress of Castell Dinas Bran, situated on the summit of a vast conical
hill in its neighbourhood.  The houses are in general old or rather mean
in appearance, though occasionally interspersed with some modern handsome
dwellings; and there is excellent accommodation for the numerous visitors
who frequent the neighbourhood during the summer season.  The pure air
and mild temperature cause a number of families to adopt this locality as
a permanent retreat.  The Hand, the King’s Head and Royal Hotel, are the
two principal inns.  Population, 1500.

Here is a stone bridge over the Dee, consisting of four pointed arches,
erected in the year 1345, by John Trevor, Bishop of St. Asaph, and which
was anciently regarded as one of the wonders of North Wales.  The scenery
of the neighbourhood is pre-eminent for its grandeur and sublimity, and
for its picturesque and romantic beauty.

The church is an ancient structure, with small pretensions to
architectural beauty, except some fine carvings on the roof and other
parts of the interior.  The view from the churchyard is remarkably
pretty, embracing the bridge, the weir, and Crow Castle.  The talented
and self taught clerk, Mr. Jones, may be consulted by writers with
profit, as a person of considerable attainments and general information.
The church services are alternately in the Welsh and English language.

The market is held on Saturday, and is well supplied with butcher’s meat,
but very little corn is sold.  By the late act for amending the
representation, Llangollen has been made a polling-place in the election
of knights for the shire.


Llangollen Vale,


a district long celebrated in prose and verse for its varied beauties, is
bounded on each side by lofty mountains of imposing grandeur.  It is
certainly a charming and romantic spot; and though not so grandly
impressive, or so surpassingly beautiful as some of the other Welsh
valleys, its lovely features become more attractive on a familiar
acquaintance.  A remarkable range of lime-stone hills, called the
Eglwyseg Rocks, adds a singular variety to the landscape.  It is almost
needless to observe that “Llangollen, that sweetest of vales,” is the
scene of the home of “Jenny Jones,” whose charms are sung in Charles
Matthews’ popular ballad.—In this vale, and within a quarter of a mile
from the town, stands


Plas Newydd,


the famed retreat of Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby, better known,
probably, as _the two recluses_ of Llangollen Vale.  These two females,
delighted with the scenery around Llangollen, when it was little known to
the rest of the world, sought here, about the year 1778, a philosophical
retirement from the frivolities of fashionable life, and selected and
improved a dwelling that commands a fine mountain prospect, which
obtained the name of Plâs Newydd.  This elegant little cottage is
situated on a small knoll, and surrounded by very tasteful grounds.

The peculiar style in which these ladies decorated their retreat has been
much discussed.  A palisade, ornamented with antique and grotesque
figures carved in oak, enclosed the front; and the doors and windows were
decorated with carving of the same material.  The rooms were tastefully
adorned with drawings.  A carriage drive, open to strangers, crosses the
lawn immediately in front of the cottage.  Lady Eleanor Butler died June
2, 1829, at the advanced age of 90, and Miss Ponsonby, Dec. 9, 1831, aged
76: both were interred in the churchyard of Llangollen.  To their memory
is erected a monument of unique and elegant structure.  It has three
sides, on each of which there is an appropriate epitaph; one for Lady
Eleanor Butler, another for Miss Ponsonby, and the other for their
youthful servant, Mary Carrol, who had accompanied them from Ireland, the
country of their birth, to this delightful retirement.

The whole property was consigned to the hammer in 1832, and was purchased
by two other maiden ladies, viz. Miss Lolly and Miss Andrew, who seemed
inclined to emulate the retirement of its former possessors.

There are many other genteel villas and country residences, within a
convenient distance of the town, deserving of notice.


Castell Dinas Bran


is situated on a high and somewhat conical hill, about a mile from
Llangollen.  The building has been about a hundred yards long, and fifty
in breadth; and it formerly occupied the whole crown of the mountain.
From its extremely elevated situation (being about 910 feet above the
surface of the Dee at Llangollen bridge), it must have been a place of
vast strength.  On the side which is most accessible, it was defended by
trenches cut through the solid rock.  The present remains consist of
nothing more than a few shattered walls.  There is a well of pure water
on the top of the hill.

The views hence on every side are very grand.  Towards the east stretches
the whole vale of Llangollen, through which the Dee foams over its rocky
bed; and beyond the vale is seen all the flat and highly cultivated
country that extends for many miles.  Just beneath lies the town of
Llangollen, and towards the west is the vale of Crucis, with its
back-ground of lofty mountains, whose dark sides are agreeably varied
with wood and meadow.  This fortress, from the style of its architecture,
is evidently the work of the Britons; but by whom built, or when
demolished, is a matter of mystery.  Old Churchyard, who visited it in
the sixteenth century, calls it “an old ruynous thing.”


Vale Crucis Abbey,


or, as it is called by the Welsh, _Monachlog Llan Egwestl_, about two
miles from Llangollen, and one mile and a half from Castell Dinas Bran,
on the right of the road towards Ruthin, is a grand and majestic ruin,
affording some noble specimens of ancient Gothic architecture.  There are
still remaining of the church the east and west ends, and the south
transept.  Several pillars and arches also remain as interesting
memorials of this exquisite relic of a past age.

The cloister on the south side, which a century ago, was only a shell, is
now converted into a dwelling-house, the residence of the person who
farms the adjacent lands.  Three rows of groined arches, on single round
pillars, support the dormitory, which is now a loft for containing corn,
approached by steps from without.  The area of the church is overgrown
with tall ash trees, which hide from the sight some part of the ruin, but
contribute greatly to its picturesque beauty.

Vale Crucis was a house of Cistercian monks, dedicated to the Virgin
Mother.  It was indebted for its foundation, about the year 1200, to
Madoc ap Griffith Maelor, Lord of Bromfield and Dinas Brân, who, after
various successes, and acquiring much booty by the reduction and ruin of
English castles, dedicated a portion of his booty to the service of
religion.  He was interred here.  At the dissolution the revenues appear
to have amounted to about £200 per annum.  A short time ago, the burial
place of the monks was accidentally discovered, in the garden at the back
of the farm-house, where many of their remains were found, which must
have been there in an undisturbed state for six hundred years.


Pillar of Eliseg.


The Vale of Crucis is indebted for its name to this cross or pillar,
which is to be found in a field near the abbey, and just opposite to the
second mile-stone from Llangollen.  This pillar is very ancient.  The
Rev. John Price, Bodleian librarian, (uncle of Dr. Price of Llangollen,)
a great antiquary, wrote to Mr. Lloyd, of Trevor Hall, respecting this
long neglected pillar, and at his suggestion it was placed in the
position it now occupies.  It appears to have been erected upwards of a
thousand years ago, in memory of Eliseg (the father of Brochwel
Yscythrog, Prince of Powys, who was slain at the battle of Chester in
607), by Concenn or Congen, his great grandson.  The inscription is much
defaced, so that it cannot be satisfactorily traced.  The shaft was once
above twelve feet long, but having been thrown down and broken, sometime
during the civil wars, its upper part, only about eight feet in length,
was left.  After these commotions, it was suffered to lie neglected for
more than a century.


Post Cysylltau, or Cysylltau Aqueduct.


From Llangollen, most tourists visit this stupendous work of art.  It is
a wonderful effort of ingenious contrivance, and affords a convincing
proof of the incalculable capability of human energies when directed by
science.  This aqueduct was constructed for the purpose of conveying the
Ellesmere canal over the river and vale of the Dee.  It was commenced in
1795, from designs by Mr. Telford, and completed in ten years.  Its
direction is from north to south, crossing the Dee at right angles; and
it forms, in connexion with the exquisite scenery surrounding it, a noble
and magnificent picture.  To view it to the best advantage, the stranger
must descend on one side of it, into the valley beneath; he will then be
impressed with its stupendous character.  Though the aqueducts of the
Romans were superior in length, in other respects they were inferior to
this modern structure.

The tourist may proceed along the high road towards Chirk, four miles
from the town, where a turning to the left will conduct him to Pont
Cysylltau Aqueduct; or crossing the bridge at Llangollen, ascend the hill
to the canal, and walk along its banks till he arrives at the aqueduct.
The high road is preferable, as it commands some engaging prospects.

The aqueduct, in length 1007 feet, consists of nineteen arches, each 45
feet in the span, with the addition of 10 feet 6 inches of iron work in
continuation at each end.  The supporting piers are stone, of a pyramidal
shape, measuring at the base 21 feet by 14 feet wide; but diminishing
upwards to 12 feet by 7 at the top; and their height about 116 feet.
Over this immense arcade is extended a trough, or large open caisson,
made of cast iron, 11 feet 10 inches broad, by which the water of the
canal is conveyed over the river 1009 feet to the opposite level.  Two
iron plates are screwed together from centre to centre of each arch; and
along one side of the canal is a towing path, four feet in breadth, with
a handsome iron balustrade, as a defence for man and horse.  The
elevation collectively will stand thus:—

                                         Feet.      Inches.
Height of piers                              116            0
Depth of trough, or caisson                    5            6
Height of balustrade                           4            7
 Total height from surface of the Dee        126            1

At the southern end is an embankment of earth, 1500 feet in length, and
seventy-five feet in height nearest the abutment of the arches.  The
whole undertaking is said to have cost £47,069 : 6 : 7.

On the centre arch is the following inscription:—“The nobility and gentry
of the adjacent counties, having united their efforts with the great
commercial interest of this country, in creating an intercourse and union
between England and North Wales, by a navigable communication of the
three rivers, Severn, Dee, and Mersey, for the mutual benefit of
agriculture and trade, caused the first stone of this aqueduct of Pont
Cyssyllte to be laid on the 25th day of July, MDCCXCV, when Richard
Myddelton, of Chirk, Esq., one of the original patrons of the Ellesmere
canal, was Lord of the Manor, and in the reign of our Sovereign George
the Third; when the equity of the laws and the security of property
promoted the general welfare of the nation, while the arts and sciences
flourished by his patronage, and the conduct of civil life was improved
by his example.”

The antiquarian will find some interesting remains in this neighbourhood
worthy of investigation.  Amongst them is a square tower, very strongly
built, in advance of and at the foot of the hill on which Crow Castle
stands.  For many years it has been appropriated as part of a farm-house,
called ‘The Tower.’  The walls of the original building or tower are very
thick; and in one corner of the quadrangle there is a winding stone
staircase, now concealed by a bookcase.  The probability is that this old
tower was an advanced station belonging to the castle.  There are also
vestiges of a nunnery or monastery at a place called Pengwern.

About six miles from Llangollen, on the Ruthin road, is a curious old
building, called Rhydidris, near Llandaglan.  The site, the extensive
stabling, and the antique curiosities in the house, raise the probability
that it has been garrisoned, and also been a military station of great
importance.

The Shrewsbury and Chester Railway Company intend to run a branch from
their main line at Ruabon to Llangollen.


Angling Stations.

The Dee      from Corwen to Llangollen.
“ “          from Llangollen to Overton.

LLANGYNOG,
(_Montgomeryshire_.)

Bala                 11
Llanfyllyn            7
Llanrhaiadr           6

Llangynog (the church of St. Cynog) is a small village, situated in a
pleasing slip of fertile land, above which rises a stupendous rock of
coarse slate.  The river Tanat, which runs through this village, is
celebrated for its delicious trout.  The upper end of the vale is bounded
by two vast precipices; between them juts out the rude promontory of Moel
ddu Vawr.  On the north side of this valley is the house of
Llechwend-garth, the occasional residence of the late Thomas Thomas, Esq.
of Downing, near Holywell, whose daughter married H. Davies Griffith,
Esq. of Caer-Rhûn, Caernarvonshire, who, in consequence, became possessed
of this estate, and was in 1835 high sheriff of the county of Montgomery.
The new inn affords tolerable accommodations.

At Craig-y-Mwyn. somewhat more than two miles from the village, in 1692,
a vein of lead ore was discovered, so valuable as to yield to the Powys
family a clear revenue of at least £20,000 a year.  It had been worked to
the depth of about one hundred yards, when on a sudden the water broke in
with such continuous power, that the proprietor was compelled to abandon
the undertaking.  About the commencement of the present century, however,
the mine was leased by a company, who drove a level beneath it, in order
to draw off the water, and continued the working of it for some time;
they occasionally found masses of pure ore, weighing from 70 to 1001b.
each.  After some time the works were again discontinued, until a few
years ago, when the old shaft was reopened, and the operations proceeded
with considerable success.

At Craig-y-Gribin, in this parish, are some quarries of excellent blue
slate, of strong and durable quality.



LLANHAIARN,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Caernarvon          13
Pwllheli             7

This is a small village, situated near the west coast of the promontory
of Lleyn.  Its church, standing on an eminence, forms a good
land-mark.—Between this place and the sea, the lofty range of the Rival
(or Yr Eifl) Mountains, which form conspicuous objects from Caernarvon
and other parts of the country.  Upon the first of these eminences, about
a mile from Llanhaiarn, is Tre ’r Caeri (or the Town of Fortresses),
which Mr. Pennant describes as “the most perfect and magnificent, as well
as the most artfully constructed British post he ever behold.”  The only
accessible side was defended by three walls, which appear to have been
very lofty.  The area is irregularly shaped, and near the centre is a
square space surrounded by the fragments of habitations.



LLANIDAN,
(_Anglesea_.)

Caernarvon            3
Llanedwen             2
Menai Bridge          6
Plas Newydd           3

Llanidan is a little village, near the shores of the Menai, not far from
the spot where the Romans landed, headed by Suetonius Paulinus, who
murdered the Britons by thousands.  It is called, by Rowlands, Maes Mawr
Gad (the Great Army’s Field).  It lies three hundred yards from the
Menai, and consists of about twenty acres.  The Romans entered the water
about two hundred yards south of Llanfair-is-caer church, where the shore
is flat, the water shallow, and only three quarters of a mile wide.  At
low water, and at neap tide, most of the bed is dry.

After the death of Nero, in the year 67, the natives, after six years of
thraldom, threw off the Roman yoke, the Druids returned and assumed their
authority and property, which they held till the year 76; when Agricola
crossed the Menai, nearly a mile farther north, landed at a field yet
called Pont or Pant-yr-Yscraffiau (Bridge of Boats), where the same
tragedy was re-acted in this and the two adjoining fields.

The locality abounds with an interesting variety of druidical remains.
Lord Boston has a residence and a park here: the house is a clumsy
building, but the situation is most pleasant.



LLANIDLOES,
(_Montgomeryshire_.)

Aberystwyth              30
Devil’s Bridge           19
London                  193
Machynlleth              20
Newtown                  14
Plinlimmon                7

Llanidloes (the Church of St. Idloes) is pleasantly situated near the
Severn.  The population of the whole parish is 4261, including 2562
inhabitants of the town, who are principally employed in spinning and
weaving of flannels, the manufacture of which has been established in
this town from a very early period, and has continued materially to
increase; the softest and most durable texture is made here.  The
principal inn is the New Inn, an excellent and well conducted
establishment, where post-chaises and other vehicles may be had; the
Queen’s Head, Red Lion, and the Crown, are also respectable houses, where
travellers may be well accommodated.  By the late Reform Act, this town
was made one of the contributory boroughs of the county.

The church was originally founded towards the close of the fifth or at
the beginning of the sixth century.  Of the original building the towers
only remain.  The present structure was built about 200 years ago.  In
1816, the chancel and south wall were rebuilt; at the same time the
church was renewed; and a set of new bells was hung in the tower in 1824.
As is usual in all the Welsh towns, there are places of worship for
various dissenting congregations.  The market-day is on Saturday.

A few years ago, a handsome stone bridge of three arches was erected over
the Severn, at a considerable expense; and a new and excellent line of
road was opened from hence to Rhaiadr, which makes a direct and regular
communication between North and South Wales.  Lord Mostyn is lord of the
manor; a court leet is held once a year, at Michaelmas, when officers are
appointed, in whom the government of the place is vested.  In the
vicinity of the town are several handsome residences, the property of
opulent individuals.

Within eight miles of Llanidloes, in the parish of Llanbrynmair, are two
fine waterfalls, near to each other, of which the principal, called Ffrwd
Vawr, is very grand, especially after heavy rains; the water having a
perpendicular descent of more than one hundred and thirty feet.


Plinlimmon.


Within the limits of Llanidloes parish is partly included the lofty
mountain of Plinlimmon, (or, more properly, Plumlumon, the five-peaked
mountain) which is the highest in the several chains, of which it forms
the centre: and from this place the ascent to its summit is usually made,
being only seven miles distant from the town, whence guides from the
principal inns are provided.  From the highest point is obtained a fine
prospect of vast extent, comprehending on the south, the hills of
Cardiganshire and Radnorshire; on the west, Cardigan bay and St. George’s
channel; on the north, Cader Idris and part of the Snowdon range of
mountains, separating the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth; on the
north-east, the Breiddyn hills, in Montgomeryshire; and on the east, part
of the counties of Hereford and Salop.  This mountain derives a
considerable degree of interest from its giving rise to the rivers
Severn, Wye, Rheidiol, and Llyvn-nant; of which the former is secondary
only to the Thames in commercial importance; whilst the Wye and the
Rheidiol surpass all other rivers in Britain for the picturesque beauty
of their scenery.

The Severn, here called by its ancient British name of Havren, rises on
the northern side of the mountain, in a stony chalybeate spring, and is
speedily joined and increased by other springs rising near to its source,
and by several mountain torrents, before it reaches Llanidloes.

The Wye rises from two powerful springs on the south-eastern side of the
mountain, and after a long circuitous course, falls into the Severn near
Chepstow.

The Rheidiol has its source in a pool called Llyn Llygad Rheidiol, and
falls into the sea at Aberystwyth.

The Llyvn-nant issues from a pool called Glâs Llyn.

About twenty years ago, Llyn Llygad was entirely without fish.  Two
gentlemen, one of whom was the late Captain Jones, R.N., of Machynlleth,
were grousing on Plinlimmon, when the conversation turned on the
peculiarity of this lake being entirely destitute of the finny tribe, and
the possibility of stocking it from a neighbouring rivulet.  A staff net
was procured, and some dozens of small trout caught in the river Rheidiol
were thrown into the lake, which at that time swarmed with millions of
horse leeches.  Some of the trout, when placed in the pool, lay upon
their sides faint and exhausted: and strange as it may appear, the
rapacious leeches attached themselves to the sick fish, and actually
devoured them.  Others of the trout were vigorous; these and their
progeny have enforced the _lex talionis_ with a vengeance; and while the
fish abound, not a leech is now to be seen.

At Melin Velindre, on the route to Plinlimmon, is a romantic cataract,
and near a sheep farm, called Blaen Havren, the Severn rolls its waters
over a lofty ledge of slate rocks, in which gullies have been found of
picturesque shapes.

About two miles from the town, on the south-east, is a spacious pool,
called Llyn-ebyr, extending over a surface of nearly one hundred acres;
it abounds with pike, eels, and perch, and affords excellent fishing; it
is frequented by wild fowl; and during the summer season it is the resort
of parties of pleasure, for whose accommodation boats belonging to
gentlemen in the vicinity are kept on the pool.


Angling Stations.

 _Distance from Llanidloes_.    _Miles_.
The Clywedog
Bodaioch, on the Tavannon               5
Glan Trevnant                           5
Llandinam                              6½
Llangurig                               5

LLANRHAIADR,
(_Denbighshire_.)

Denbigh          4
Ruthin           4

Llanrhaiadr (the Village of the Cataract), on the road between Ruthin and
Denbigh, is situated on a small eminence in the fertile vale of Clwyd.
It derives its name from a spring at a short distance, called Ffynnon
Ddyfrog, where once was a bath and chapel, dedicated to St. Ddyfrog.

The church is a very interesting and handsome structure.  On the east
window is a painting of the genealogy of Christ from Jesse, executed
about 1533.  In the church-yard is a curious inscription to John ap
Robert, whose pedigree is traced up to Cadell, king of Powys.

The scenery, both to Denbigh and Ruthin, is all the way extremely
beautiful.



LLANRHAIADR-YN-MOCHNANT,
(_Denbighshire_.)

Bala                18
Llanfyllyn           5
Llangynog            6
Oswestry            14

This is a small village situated at the extremity of the county, in a
deep hollow, surrounded by mountains.

Dr. William Morgan, the first translator of the Bible into Welsh, was
vicar of this place.  He was promoted to the bishopric of Llandaff, and
in 1601 to that of St. Asaph, where he died in 1604.  This valley is
called Mochnant, (the Vale of the Rapid Brook) at the extremity of which,
distant from the village about four miles and a half, is


Pistyll Rhaiadr,


(The Spout of the Cataract) reputed to be the largest waterfall in Wales.
The little river Rhaiadr here falls down an almost perpendicular black
crag, of 240 feet in height.  For about two-thirds of this space, the
water slides down the flat face of a naked rock; it rages thence through
a natural arch, and, passing between two prominent sides, falls into a
basin.  It then passes though a well-wooded dell, forming a boundary line
which separates the counties of Denbigh and Montgomery, and after
assisting to form some pretty scenes, falls into the Tanat.  Near to the
waterfall is a neat inn, built in the Gothic style, by Sir W. W. Wynn,
where the stranger may meet with tolerable accommodation.



LLANRWST,
(_Denbighshire_.)

Abergele                22
Bettws-y-Coed            4
Cerniogau               14
Capel Curig             10
Conway                  12
Denbigh                 22
Llanrhychwyn            2½
London                 218
Maen-Twrog              20

This town is pleasantly situated on the western bank of the river Conway,
which here forms the boundary between the counties of Denbigh and
Caernarvon, in the spacious and beautiful vale of Llanrwst, environed by
majestic and well-wooded hills, the land at the foot of which is
plentifully watered and remarkably fertile.  The town consists
principally of small houses and shops, with a population of 3905
inhabitants.  It has a market on Tuesday, and a branch of the North and
South Wales bank.  The Eagles is the principal inn; but a good house of
public entertainment is sadly wanted here.

The bridge over the Conway, leading to Gwydir, is an elegant structure,
built about the year 1636, from a plan by the celebrated Inigo Jones, at
an expense of £1000, defrayed conjointly by the two counties which it
connects.  It is an extraordinary fact that a vibration of the bridge may
be caused by any person standing above the middle arch and forcing
himself rather smartly against the parapet.—Excellent roads have lately
been made, communicating with the London, Holyhead, and Chester roads,
and also with Denbigh and St. Asaph, the improved state of which has
induced a considerable increase of visitors, during the summer months, to
view the picturesque and much admired scenery of this neighbourhood.

Llanrwst was formerly noted for making harps; at present the spinning of
woollen yarn, and the knitting of stockings, constitute the principal
branches of trade.  In the market-place stands the town-hall, a
substantial structure, rebuilt in 1842.

The original church, dedicated to St. Grwst, was a small edifice,
situated close to the margin of the river, and built about the year 1170;
and was supposed, from its style of architecture, to have been erected in
the fifteenth century: it contained a screen of beautifully carved oak,
brought here from the abbey of Maenan, which was used as a gallery for
the singers.  A new church has, however, been built on its site; and
adjoining it, on the other side, is Gwydir chapel, a handsome square
castellated edifice, the interior of which is decorated with a profusion
of carved work; it was built by Sir Richard Wynne, from a design by Inigo
Jones, in 1633, as a burial place for his family, the deceased members of
which had previously been interred in the chancel, and contains many
elegantly engraved brasses, exhibiting portraits of several of this
family.  On the eastern wall is a slab of white marble, recording the
pedigree of the founder, and tracing his ancestors to Owen Gwynedd,
prince of North Wales.  On the southern wall is a mutilated monument to
the memory of Sir John Wynne, Bart., a learned antiquary, and an
indefatigable gleaner of materials for the illustration of Welsh history.
In the centre of the chapel, upon the floor, lies the stone coffin of
Llywelyn the Great, who died in 1240, and was interred in the abbey which
he had founded at Aberconway, thence removed to Maenan, and from that
place, at the dissolution, the coffin was brought to the old parish
church of Llanrwst, where it remained obscured by rubbish, until placed
in its present more appropriate situation.  The same attention has
likewise been paid to another piece of antiquity placed near it, a
recumbent armed effigy of Howel Coetmor, grandson of Davydd, brother to
Llywelyn ap Gruffydd; he was the owner of the Gwydir estate, which was
sold by one of his descendants to the family of Wynne.  There are in the
parish eleven places of worship for dissenters.  A new church, called by
the inhabitants the English church, has lately been erected about half a
mile from Llanrwst.  It is a neat and commodious edifice.


Gwydir.


This ancient mansion, about half a mile distant from the town,
beautifully situated amidst extensive woods of oak, which clothe the
rocks projecting between the rivers Conway and Llugwy, near the foot of a
lofty precipice called Carreg y Gwalch, or the Rock of the Falcon, was
erected by John Wynne ab Meredydd, in 1555, and comprised an extensive,
but somewhat irregular pile of buildings, ranged in a quadrangular style,
and consisting of an inner and outer court.  A great part of this edifice
was taken down in 1816, since which time the present structure, though on
a much smaller scale, has been built.  A small portion of the former
mansion still remains, and is fitted up in an antique and elegant style.
That part which was built by Meredydd still remains, and contains some
magnificent rooms, in which are several articles of furniture made from
the druidical oaks of ancient times, and the cradle which nurtured Sir
John and Sir Richard Wynne is still to be seen.  The pleasure grounds are
laid out with great taste, and contain a good collection of plants.  Mary
Wynne, afterwards Duchess of Ancaster, the last of this great race,
conveyed the property to that family, and Lord Willoughby d’Eresby now
possesses it in right of his lady.


Vale of Llanrwst.


This delightful vale, which is neither so widely extended as the Vale of
Clwyd, nor so contracted as that of Llangollen, is regarded by the
admirers of picturesque scenery, as exhibiting the most varied assemblage
of beautiful features which the pencil could delineate.  Mr. Burke has
pronounced it “the most charming spot in Wales.”  The prospect of the
dense woods and towering hills which enclose it on each side, is
enlivened by the sparkling waters of the sportive Conway, which present
an animated scene, either of small vessels arriving at the village of
Trefriw, or of the diminutive boats, called coracles, used in fishing for
salmon and smelts, considerable quantities of which are caught in their
respective seasons.  At Mayne, within a mile of Llanrwst, is a spring of
high repute, and frequently used with great effect as a cold bath.

In the valley called Nant Bwlch yr Haiarn, near Gwydir, is a cataract
which falls about 100 feet, called Rhaiadr-y-Parc Mawr.  The quantity of
water, however, is seldom large enough to produce much effect.  About two
miles and a half from Llanrwst, on the Conway road, is the small but
beautiful village of


Trefriw,


situated on an eminence commanding a delightful and extensive view of the
Vale of Llanrwst.  Near and above this lovely spot is the celebrated lake
of Geirionydd, on the banks of which lived the illustrious bard Taliesin,
called by his countrymen, by way of distinction, “Taliesin ben Beirdd,”
the chief of the bards.  About a mile from Llyn Geirionydd is the
mountain village of Llanrhychwyn.  Lord Willoughby d’Eresby has erected a
monument which his lordship intended should identify the spot where the
poet resided.  Here, in a sort of hollow, formed on the summit of a
mound, are still to be seen some remains of an ancient habitation.  The
river Conway is navigable from its mouth to Trefriw, for vessels of 60
tons burden, which bring coal, lime, timber, and grocery, for the supply
of the inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood, and carry back the
produce of the slate quarries and mines of the adjoining parishes.  Five
miles S. E. of Llanrwst, is


Gwytherin,


a small village, very poor and primitive indeed, once celebrated as the
burial place of St. Winefred, but the pilgrimages to it are now few and
far between.—Three miles to the north stood the Abbey of Maenan; but a
large old house built out of its ruins now occupies its place.


Angling Stations.

 _Distance from Llanrwst_.    _Miles_.
Bettws-y-Coed                         5
Trefriw                              2½
Dolgarrog                             4
Llanbedr                              5
Dolwyddelan                           8
 _Various Lakes near Llanrhychwyn and
          Dôlgarrog_, _viz._
Llyn Geirionydd                       4
Llyn Bogynmyd                         3
Llyn Cowlyd                           6
Llyn Afangc.
Llyn Tal-y-llyn, and Llyn Crafnant,
near Llanrwst.

MACHYNLLETH,
(_Montgomeryshire_.)

Aberdovey             10
Aberystwyth           18
Chester               70
Dolgelley             16
Llanidloes            20
London               208
Newtown               28
Towyn                 14

Machynlleth is an ancient well-built town, superior to most in North
Wales for cleanliness and respectability, the streets being remarkably
spacious and regular in appearance.  It is situated on the road leading
to Aberystwyth from Shrewsbury and North Wales, about a quarter of a mile
from the southern bank of the river Dyfi.  The township contains a
population of 2482.  It is the centre of the woollen manufactory in this
part of the country, where also some tanning business is carried on.  The
Eagles is accounted the principal inn, and the Unicorn Arms, in the
middle of the town, has obtained a good repute for excellent
accommodation.  The name of this town signifies the place of the river
Cynllaeth, which was the ancient name of the Dyfi or Dovey, in the valley
of which it stands.  It is the supposed Maglana of the Romans, where, in
the reign of Honorius, a lieutenant was stationed to awe the
mountaineers.

Here Owen Glyndwr summoned the nobility and gentry, of Wales in 1402.
Amongst the number, Sir David Gam attended with the design of murdering
Glyndwr, but the plot was discovered, and Sir David was seized.  He would
have suffered instantaneous death, had not some powerful friends
interfered, through whose intercession his sentence was mitigated to
confinement at Machynlleth, where he continued some time.  But Sir David
was scarcely set at liberty, ere he began to manifest a turbulent
disposition; which so exasperated Glyndwr, that he burnt his house in
resentment, uttering to Gam’s servant the following extemporaneous
stanza:—

    Os gweli di wr coch cam,
       Yn ’mofyn am Gyrnigwen;
    Dywed ei bod hi tan y lan,
       A nod y glo ar ei phen.

David, however, escaped this meditated vengeance by flying into England,
where he continued in favour at the court of Henry the Fifth.

In the august assembly called Owen’s parliament, Glyndwr exerted his
first acts of royalty, being then acknowledged as the Prince of Wales,
and proclaimed and crowned.

Machynlleth has a neat and commodious church, which has recently been
rebuilt.  The town-hall or market-house was erected in 1783, by Sir W. W.
Wynn, grandfather of the present owner of Wynnstay, who is lord of the
manor, and holds courts leet twice in the year.  The county court is held
alternately here and at Montgomery, and the petty sessions for the
hundred are held here occasionally.  There are places of worship for
Independents, Calvinists, and Wesleyan Methodists; and a national school
liberally endowed.

The new line of road from Machynlleth to Towyn is exceedingly picturesque
and beautiful, particularly that part of it lying between Penal and
Aberdovey, which is cut out of the solid rock, and was opened in 1827; it
passes along the northern bank of the Dovey, and affords most delightful
views of the opposite coast of Cardiganshire, with the sea in the
distance.



MAEN-TWROG
(_Merionethshire_.)

Bala                    22
Bedd-gelert             10
Capel Curig             22
Caernarvon              23
Dolgelley               18
Ffestiniog               3
Harlech                 10
Slate Quarries           5
Tan-y-Bwlch             0¼
Tremadoc                10
The Cataracts            2

This is a small village, situated in the most romantic part of the highly
picturesque vale of Ffestiniog, on the southern bank of the river Dwyryd.
It derives its name from a large stone, still remaining in the
church-yard, called Maen-Twrog, erected to the memory of a British saint,
who died about the year 610.  The church was rebuilt on the site of the
ancient structure in 1814, and is a neat stone edifice with a square
embattled tower.  The Rev. Edmund Prys, Archdeacon of Merioneth, one of
the most eminent poets of his time, was rector of this parish: he
translated the metrical psalms used in the Welsh churches, and assisted
Bishop Morgan in translating the Bible.  He died in the year 1623, and
was buried in Maen-Twrog church.  Nothing can exceed the beauties of the
little vale in which the village is built; the well-wooded hills are
moderately high, and scattered with pleasing effect.

There is a comfortable inn here, where neat cars may be had.  A Sunday
school was lately erected, at the expense of Mrs. Oakley.  Within sight
of the village, and about a quarter of a mile distant, on the opposite
side of the river, is


Tan-y-Bwlch,


that is, Below the Pass, which is one of the most beautiful and
celebrated places connected with the range of Snowdonian mountains.  It
takes its name from being situated at the brow of a hill, where it
overlooks the vale of Ffestiniog; and from Plâs Tan-y-Bwlch, the
residence of the late W. G. Oakley, Esq., which is delightfully and
romantically situated.  The prospect from the terrace of this mansion is
most splendid and interesting, embracing the glorious scenery of the vale
of Ffestiniog, the river Dwyryd in all its meandering windings, the range
of Merionethshire mountains in the distance, the majestic castle of
Harlech, and the lake-like intervening views opening into Cardigan bay.

The Oakley Arms, an elegant hotel, is conveniently situated in the centre
of the many attractive objects of this romantic district.

Several Roman antiquities have lately been found near this place,
consisting of coins, urns, and inscribed stones, some of which are in the
possession of Mrs. Oakley, and of J. Lloyd, Esq. of Pen-y-Glanau, who has
also an extensive collection of antiquities, found in different parts of
the Principality.

About two miles on the Harlech road, up a woody valley, are two most
interesting waterfalls, on the Velin-Rhyd river, one called the Rhaiadr
Dû, or the Black Cataract, and the other the Raven Fall.  From the former
the water rushes down a steep channel for about one hundred yards, and is
thence thrown with great force over three rocks, each of which takes a
different direction from the others: the depth of the fall is about forty
feet.  The latter is not more than a quarter of a mile distant, and in
equal in beauty and grandeur.  It consists of six different falls, each
of which, about thirty feet in extent, is beautifully picturesque, and,
as seen from the base of the rock over which the river descends, has a
sublime and romantic appearance.  There are also several other falls of
minor interest on the streams that water the vale.  At a cottage near the
bridge, which the tourist will cross before he leaves the main road from
Maen-Twrog, a guide to the falls may be obtained.

After the natural beauties of this lovely district, the object of the
greatest attraction is the Ffestiniog railroad, for the conveyance of
slates from the Ffestiniog quarries to Port Madoc, which is cut through
rocks nearly the whole length of fourteen miles, and forms an inclined
plane the whole distance, the fall of which is equal to one in one
hundred and twenty, and the descent from its commencement to its
termination is a most delightful ride, through an infinite variety of
sublime and interesting scenery.  For the accommodation of tourists and
visitors, a carriage, connected with the Oakley Arms Hotel, has been
placed on the line.

The quarries with which the railway is in connexion produce the best and
most valuable kind of slate.  They belong to Lords Newborough,
Palmerston, and Powlett; Mrs. Oakley; S. Holland, J. Greaves, W. Turner,
and Thomas Casson, Esquires.



MALLWYD.
(_Montgomeryshire_.)

Bala                   19
Can-Office             12
Dinas Mowddwy          1½
Machynlleth            12

This is a little village, placed between the salient angles of three
abrupt mountains, Arran, Camlan, and Moel Dyfi, in a small valley
surrounded by many delightful scenes, through which runs the river Dyfi,
or Dovey.

The falls of the Dovey at Pont Fallwyd, about half a mile distant, are
particularly romantic and beautiful.

The church is a very humble Gothic structure.  The churchyard is
remarkable for several large yew trees, one of which measures twenty-two
feet in girth, and forty feet in height.—Mallwyd has a good inn, where
post chaises may be procured.



MOLD,
(_Flintshire_.)

Chester            12
Denbigh            16
Flint               6
Hawarden            6
Holywell           10
London            200
Northop             3
Ruthin             10
Wrexham            11

The ancient British name of this place, (Yr Wyddgrûg), signifying a Lofty
and Conspicuous Hill, and also the Roman name of Mont Altus, of like
import, were derived from a high mound on the north-western side of the
present town, now called the Bailey Hill, a commanding eminence, partly
natural, and partly artificial, upon which a fortification appears to
have been erected at a very early period, but whether by the ancient
Britons, or by the Romans, is not accurately known.  It is seated in a
pleasant valley, watered by the river Alyn; consists principally of one
long spacious street; and in 1841, with that part of the township
immediately adjoining, contained 10,653 inhabitants.  By the late Act for
amending the representation, Mold has been constituted a borough,
contributory with Flint and the other boroughs in the county, in the
return of a member to Parliament.

In the environs are numerous handsome seats and elegant mansions.  The
principal inns are the Black Lion and Leeswood Arms hotels.  To the
former a spacious assembly room has lately been added, and many agreeable
balls are there given.  The parish abounds with mineral wealth; the
western district is rich in lead ore, which is generally found imbedded
in limestone, or chirtz; but the operations are much impeded by the
subterraneous stream of the Alyn, which here flows under ground for the
space of upwards of half a mile.  Numerous tumuli are found in various
parts of the parish.  In October 1833, some workmen, digging in a field
near the town, discovered a human skeleton, having at its feet an
earthern pot, which apparently contained ashes; and on the breast, with
other metal, a large plate of gold, much ornamented, valued at the sum of
£70: the trustees of the British Museum became the purchasers of these
antique relics.

In the neighbourhood are various works for smelting lead, and an
extensive cotton mill.

The county assizes are held in Mold.  A new county hall has been erected
in the old English style of architecture, from a design by Thomas Jones,
Esq., architect, of Chester.

The church, dedicated to St. Mary, and said to have been erected in the
early part of the sixteenth century, is a spacious and handsome
structure, consisting of a nave, north and south aisles, and a chancel,
with a lofty square embattled tower, enriched with sculpture and crowned
with pinnacles, which though of more recent erection, precisely
correspond with the general design.  The interior of the church is
embellished with architectural details and sculptured monuments.  Among
numerous monuments worthy of examination, is an elegant one to the memory
of Richard Davies, Esq., of Llanerch; and against a pillar of the nave is
this singular epitaph, composed by Dr. Wynne for himself, and placed
there during his life:—“In conformity to ancient usage, from a proper
regard to decency, and a concern for the health of his fellow-creatures,
he was moved to give particular directions for being buried in the
adjoining churchyard, and not in the church; and as he scorned flattering
of others while living, he has taken care to prevent being flattered by
others when dead, by causing this small memorial to be set up in his
lifetime: God be merciful to me a sinner!”  In the burial ground are
deposited the remains of Wilson, the celebrated painter, styled “the
English Claude.”  There are places of worship for various denominations
of dissenters.  A branch railway from Mold, to form a junction with the
Shrewsbury and Holyhead lines, at Saltney, near Chester, will soon be
constructed.

Of the ancient castle not a vestige at present can be discerned, and its
very site is completely covered with thriving plantations.  The Bailey
Hill, on which it stood, though at present difficult of ascent, was
rendered still more arduous by the erection of strong ramparts and the
formation of a deep moat: from the summit of this hill a fine view of the
surrounding country is obtained.  About a mile west of Mold is a noted
spot of ground, called


Maes Garmon,


Or the Field of Germanus.  Soon after the final establishment of
Christianity in this part of the Principality, about 448, a severe
conflict took place here, between the combined forces of the pagan Saxons
and Picts, and the native converts, of whom thousands had been just
previously baptized.  The latter calmly awaited the approach of the enemy
at this place, under the command of Bishops Germanus and Lupus, the
former of whom, having given his troops orders to repeat after him the
word “alleluiah,” led them on to battle.

This triumphant shout, uttered by the whole army, struck such terror into
the hearts of the pagans, that they fled on all sides; numbers perished
by the swords of their pursuers; and many, attempting to escape, were
drowned in the adjacent river.  This celebrated victory, which took place
in Easter week, has been distinguished by historians with the appellation
of “Victoria Alleluiatica;” and the memorial of it has been perpetuated
by the erection of a pillar, in 1730, on the spot where St. Germanus is
said to have stood.  Modern researches of antiquarians have raised a
doubt as to the locality of this remarkable event.  One mile and a half
on the Chester road runs


Offa’s Dyke,


The ancient and famous boundary between Wales and England, extending from
Basingwerk, in Flintshire, to Monmouth.  When the Romans made their
inroads into this island, many of the Britons retreated into Wales, at
which time the rivers Dee and Severn divided the two countries: all to
the east was England, and to the west Wales.  This division continued
about 600 years, when the ambitious Offa, coveting the fertile lands of
his neighbours, raised a quarrel and an army.  He drove the conquered
westward among the mountains, seized their property, formed this vast
dyke, and ordained that neither Englishman nor Welshman should pass the
new boundary.


The Tower.


On the right of the road leading towards Caergwrle, and about a mile from
Mold, is an old structure, which presents a singular specimen of the
style of domestic architecture during the ages of lawless violence in
which it was erected: it consists of an ancient square tower of three
stories, and appears to have been designed as a place of fortified
habitation.  During the wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, it
was inhabited by Reinallt ab Gruffydd ab Bleddyn, who was constantly
engaged in feuds with the citizens of Chester.  In 1495, a considerable
number of the latter came to Mold fair, and a fray arising between the
hostile parties, great slaughter ensued on both sides; but Reinallt, who
obtained the victory, took the mayor of Chester prisoner, and conveyed
him to his mansion, where he hung him on the staple in his great hall.
To avenge this affront, a party of two hundred men was dispatched from
Chester to seize Reinallt, who, retiring from his house into the
adjoining woods, permitted a few of them to enter the building, when,
rushing from his concealment, he blocked up the door, and, setting fire
to the house, destroyed them in the flames: he then attacked the
remainder, whom he pursued with great slaughter: and such as escaped the
sword, were drowned in attempting to regain their homes.  The staple on
which the mayor was hung still remains fixed on the ceiling of the lower
apartment.


Moel Fammau.


On the right of the road to Ruthin, about five miles west of Mold, is
this conspicuous eminence, rising 1845 feet above the level of the sea.
Upon the summit of this mountain, the gentlemen of the country entered
into a subscription, and erected in 1810, a jubilee column, to
commemorate the fiftieth year of the reign of George III.  The first
stone was laid by Lord Kenyon, on the 25th October, in the presence of
more than 3000 people.  The monument was executed from designs by T.
Harrison, Esq., of Chester, and consists of a rough stone building of
pyramidal form, about 150 feet in height, and 60 feet diameter at the
base.  A square block of stone in the centse marks the division of the
two counties, Denbighshire and Flintshire, and four parishes.  From this
elevated spot may be seen parts of Staffordshire and Derbyshire; the
Wrekin, in Shropshire; Snowdon and Cader Idris, in Wales; and Black Comb,
in Cumberland.  The view is exceedingly grand and extensive, combining
every variety of natural scenery; and as the mountain road has lately
been repaired, and a room for visitors with a shed for horses erected on
the summit, it forms a convenient and interesting spot from which to
contemplate the beauties of Wales.  The jubilee column has also been
repaired by public subscription, to which Lord Kenyon was a liberal
contributor.


Kilkain.


This village, which lies about four miles from Mold, on the bridle road
to Denbigh, is remarkable for the finely-carved roof of its church, which
at the dissolution of monasteries was brought from the abbey of
Basingwerk.



MONA INN,
(_Anglesea_.)

Beaumaris             14
Holyhead              12
Menai Bridge          10

Mona Inn, formerly called Caeau Môn, is an excellent hotel, situate
midway between Bangor and Holyhead, on the new line of road between those
places.  Post chaises are kept here.  About nine miles beyond the Mona
Inn the mail road crosses the Stanley Sands, by means of an embankment
1300 yards in length, and upon an average of 16 feet in height.  In the
fields of the inn the geologist will find a curious red rock, containing
jasper, which will cut glass like a diamond, and which also polishes
beautifully.



MONTGOMERY,
(_Montgomeryshire_.)

Bishop’s Castle            9
London                   169
Newtown                    9
Welshpool                  8

This town, the capital of the county, is romantically situated, partly on
the summit, and partly on the declivity of a hill, rising from the
southern bank of the Severn, and under the shelter of a mountain of a
mountain of loftier elevation.—The town-hall stands in the middle of the
town, the area underneath being used for the market: the upper part is
divided into two handsome rooms, erected at the expense of Lord Clive,
the larger of which is used for assemblies; the smaller, for the business
of the quarter sessions.  On the left of the road leading to Shrewsbury
is the new gaol, built by the county at an expense of £10,000.  In 1841,
the population returns gave to this town 1208 inhabitants.  The Dragon
has the reputation of being the principal inn.

The town was anciently built and fortified with a castle, by Baldwyn,
lieutenant of the Welsh marshes to William the Conqueror, and then called
Tre-Faldwyn, i.e. Baldwyn’s Town; but Roger de Montgomery, Earl of
Shrewsbury, in 1092, entered Powys-land, and took his place, which he
fortified anew, built the castle (according to Doomsday-book), and called
it after his own name.  The church is a handsome cruciform structure, and
contains an ancient monument to the memory of Richard Herbert, Esq.,
father of the celebrated Lord Herbert of Chirbury.

The ruins of the castle crown an eminence to the north of the town, the
approach to which is easy; but on the opposite side, the rock upon which
it is built rises almost perpendicularly.  A seat belonging to the Earl
of Powys, called Leymore Lodge, stands about half a mile from the town,
on the road to Bishop’s Castle.


Mynydd, or Cefn Dygoll,


Is celebrated for having been the spot where the national independence of
the Welsh was finally prostrated.  After the death of Llywelyn, the
northern Welshmen set up Madoc, his cousin, who assembled a great army,
and after several victories at Caernarvon, Denbigh, Knockin, and on the
marshes, the hero of the Principality was here overthrown, in 1294, by
the collected power of the Lords Marshers, after a fiercely contested
battle.



NEVYN,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Caernarvon           21
Cricaeth             15
London              270
Pwllheli              7

Nevyn is a small market town, situated on the western coast of the
county, with a population of 1726 inhabitants.  It is only remarkable as
the place where Edward the First, in 1284, celebrated his conquest of
Wales by tournaments and feasts.  The coast in the neighbourhood is bold
and rocky, and the surrounding scenery altogether of a mountainous
character.  The church is a neat building, erected in 1824.

On a narrow head-land, jutting into the sea, about a mile from the town,
is Porth-yn-Llëyn, supposed, from remains of strong entrenchments, to
have been a port frequented by the Romans.  It forms a natural bay, in
which there is safe anchorage in all winds, for vessels of the largest
tonnage.



NEWBOROUGH,
(_Anglesea_.)

Aberfraw               7
Menai Bridge          12

Newborough is on inconsiderable village, containing 895 inhabitants,
deriving its name from having been constituted a free borough by Edward
the First.  It was originally a place of great importance, being the
capital of the island, and was for many years the residence of the
princes of North Wales, who had a palace here, where, or at Aberfraw, on
the opposite side of the Malldraeth sands, they occasionally fixed their
seat of government, as the exigences of that turbulent period might
require.  At the time of the first conquest of Wales by Edward the First,
this place appears to have been the chief town in the island, as well as
the seat of justice for the whole comot of Menai.  In the reign of Henry
the Seventh, upon a representation to that sovereign, the assizes and
other county business were removed from Beaumaris to Newborough.  Having,
however, declined from its former importance, in the third year of Edward
the Sixth, the assizes, sessions, and general county business were
removed back to Beaumaris, where they have been continued ever since.



NEWMARKET,
(_Flintshire_.)

Caerwys            5
Holywell           7
St. Asaph          6
Rhuddlan           4

This village is situated about three miles to the right hand of the great
Chester and Holyhead road, and within three miles of the estuary of the
Dee.

The church is a small structure of modern date, standing within a
spacious cemetery, in which are some fine lofty trees.  On the south of
the church, and not far distant from the principal entrance, stands a
tall and very beautiful stone cross, the upper part finely sculptured in
high relief.  Here is built one of the charity schools, founded and
opened in 1726, by Dr. Daniel Williams, a dissenting minister, with an
annual endowment of £8, a charity which he extended to every county in
North Wales, distinguishing that of Wrexham, the place of his birth, by
an annual salary of £15.

The conjecture of the learned antiquarian, Mr. Pennant, that from the
numerous tumuli and other sepulchral memorials visible in the
neighbourhood, it was the scene of the slaughter of the Ordovices, by the
Romans under Agricola, seems to be well founded.

Near the village is a hill called Cop ’r ’leni, on the summit of which is
a most enormous carnedd or tumulus, formed of lime-stones.  It covers
nearly an acre of ground, and is in height from 20 to 30 yards.  The most
probable conjecture is, that it was erected over the remains of some
distinguished warrior or chieftain, slain in battle, and in later times
served as an observatory to discern the approach of an enemy, for which
purpose it is well calculated, as it commands an extensive view both of
the neighbouring encampments, and the estuaries of the Dee and Mersey.

A short distance from this place, on the brow of another hill, is
Bryn-y-Saethau, or the Hill of Arrows, probably from being the station of
the archers in the engagement: close to this is Bryn-y-Lladdfa, or the
Hill of Slaughter, a name peculiarly appropriate to the site of a battle;
a little below again is Pant-y-Gwae, or the Hollow of Woe.

Between Newmarket and Mostyn, about one mile and a half distance from the
former place, there is on an elevation a singular monument, denominated
Maen Achwynfan, or the Stone of Lamentation and Weeping, on which are cut
some very curious figures; the height of the stone is twelve feet, and
two feet four inches wide at the base; the form is that of an ancient
obelisk.

A short time since one of the tumuli or barrows was opened in the
presence of Mr. Morgan, of Golden Grove, and the Rev. Henry Parry, vicar
of Llanasa, and was found to contain a quantity of bones and boars’
tusks, the latter in good preservation.  An urn, nearly two feet in
height, was struck upon, but through the precipitancy of the workmen
employed on the occasion, was unfortunately broken to pieces.



NEWTOWN,
(_Montgomeryshire_.)

Bishop’s Castle           16
Llanidloes                14
Llanfyllyn                19
London                   179
Machynlleth               30
Welshpool                 14

Newtown, or as it is called by the Welsh Tre’-Newydd, is situated on the
banks of the river Severn, on the road from Welshpool to Aberystwyth, and
contains 3990 inhabitants.—The principal inns are the Boar and the Angel.
Very little is known either of the origin or the early history of this
place, which within the last fifty years, from the celebrity of its
flannel manufacture, has risen into importance.  A spacious hall has
recently, been erected, from a design by Mr. Penson, in which the market
for the staple commodity of the place is held, each alternate Thursday.
Many factories have been established, which afford employment to more
than two thousand persons.

A substantial bridge of stone over the Severn, called the Long Bridge,
was completed in 1827, at a cost exceeding £4000: it consists of three
arches of more than sixty feet span; the arches and the parapets being of
grey free-stone, and the spears and spandrils of blue stone, found in the
neighbourhood.  A stone bridge of one arch was built in 1803, over the
town brook, on the road to Welshpool, which, by way of distinction, is
called the Short Bridge.

The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is an ancient structure.  In the
interior are some marble monuments, chiefly to the family of Price, of
Newtown Hall.  The environs abound with pleasing and romantic scenery,
and a fine view of the town is obtained from the summits of the hills on
the north and south sides.  At the distance of about a mile and a half on
the road to Built, there is a picturesque and beautiful spot, which is
much resorted to by strangers; from the summit of a shelving mass of
rock, eighty feet high, a stream of water rushes with impetuosity,
forming in its descent a fine cascade, which winds at the base through a
richly wooded glen.


Angling Stations.

 _Distances from Newtown_.    _Miles_.
Bettws                                4
Llanmerewig                           4
Llanwynog                             6

NORTHOP,
(_Flintshire_.)

Chester           11½
Flint               3
Hawarden           4½
Holywell            6
London            194
Mold                3

This is a large and pleasantly situated village, in a fertile part of the
country, surrounded by numerous seats and elegant villas.  The Welsh name
is Llan-Eurgain, from the dedication of its first church to St. Eurgain,
daughter of the Prince Maelgwyn Gwynedd, and niece of St. Asaph, the
second bishop of the see, which from him derived its name.

The church, which has a noble tower, erected in 1571, stands on a small
eminence, and is an irregular building, embattled in the front, and
supported by clumsy buttresses.  The interior length is 113 feet, and the
breadth 38½ feet.  There have been three dedications of Northop church;
the first to St. Eurgain; the second to St. Mary; and the third to St.
Peter.  There are several remarkable monuments in this church.

The parish of Northop contains about 6000 acres of land, nearly the whole
extent of which is in cultivation.  The population of the parish in 1841
was 3566.

Coals are found in the lower parts of the parish, and some of the works
have been extensively carried on for many years; large quantities are
conveyed by iron rail-roads to Connah’s Quay, and there shipped for
Chester, Liverpool, and Dublin.  Lead ore is found, though not in great
abundance, in the township of Caer Allwch.



OSWESTRY,
(_Shropshire_.)

Chirk                5
Ellesmere            8
Llanfyllyn          14
Shrewsbury          18
Welshpool           16
Wrexham             14

This town, though not situated in Wales, is so contiguous, that it is
frequently visited by travellers, either on commencing or terminating
their tour, Oswestry lying on the great line of road from Llangollen to
Shrewsbury.  The town occupies the declivity of a range of hills, which
skirt it on the western side, and command an extensive view over the
fertile plains of Salop.  The streets are well paved and lighted: the old
buildings of timber and brick have been succeeded by respectable modern
edifices; and the town, which has long been stretched beyond its ancient
boundaries, is still progressively increasing in extent and importance.
The population of the parish by the last census was 8843.



OVERTON,
(_Flintshire_.)

Ellesmere          5
Wrexham            7

This is a neat little village, delightfully situated on the banks of the
Dee, over which river is a handsome stone bridge of two lofty arches,
connecting the counties of Denbigh and Flint, on the road from Chester to
Shrewsbury.  The surrounding scenery is beautifully picturesque.  The
village, with its venerable church, forms a pleasing and highly
interesting feature in a charming landscape.  In the churchyard are
several fine yew trees.  The site of the ancient castle occupies the brow
of a lofty promontory overlooking the river Dee; and in the park of
Gwernhaeled are the remains of a large circular camp, with an ancient
tumulus.  In this vicinity is the elegant seat of F. R. Price, Esq.
Bryn-y-Pys.

                ANGLING STATION.—The Dee up to Llangollen.



PENMAEN MAWR,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Aber                  4
Bangor                9
Conway                6
Port Penrhyn          8

Penmaen Mawr is an immense hill, and so denominated from being the last
of the long chain of mountains which cross the country.  This gigantic
rock, along which the road from Chester to Holyhead passes, exhibits a
fine contrast with the adjacent fertility, by its sterile grandeur.  This
place was once the dread of the neighbourhood, the immense promontory
affording only a narrow zig-zag path along the shelf of its frowning side
for the terrified traveller to pass.  Under his feet were loose masses of
rugged stones, impeding his progress; beneath, a hundred fathoms down,
the roaring ocean foaming against the perpendicular base of the mountain;
and over his head, the impending precipice, threatening by its shivering
aspect to overwhelm or hurry him headlong down the craggy steep.  The
danger, from the declivity of the mountain, with the crumbling nature of
the strata, increased with his progress, and, in several difficult parts
of the road, one false step must have inevitably proved fatal.

From the numerous accidents that occurred, it was long an object of
melancholy consideration to the inhabitants in the vicinity: the winter
evenings were often spent in relating the alarming tales of the perils
and disasters attendant on passing Penmaen Mawr.  Modern science,
however, has made travelling in this fearful district both safe and
attractive.  By order of the Parliamentary Commissioners, a new road was
opened in 1827, by the celebrated Mr. Telford.  And a capacious tunnel
has been constructed for the Chester and Holyhead Railway, through the
adjoining mountain of Penmaen Bach, which seemed to defy every attempt to
pierce its gloomy recesses.

On the summit of a lull called Braich-y-Ddinas, rising out of Penmaen,
are the ruins of a castle, the fortifications of which were capable of
containing 20,000 men; the remains of walls are still standing, and a
well that supplied the garrison is constantly full of water, furnished
principally by the _condensed_ vapour of the mountain.  This was
considered the strongest post possessed by the Britons in the district of
Snowdon.  It was deemed impregnable; and here the reduced bands of the
brave Welsh army were posted, pending the negociation betwixt Edward I.
and Llywelyn.



PENMORFA,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Beddgelert                 7
Pwllheli                  11
Pont Aberglaslyn          5½
Tremadoc                   1

Penmorfa, or the Head of the Marsh, is a small wood-clad village,
romantically situated on the western bank of Traeth Mawr, but is so much
out of the way of tourists as to be seldom visited.  The church is small,
and dedicated to St. Beuno, having within a small monument to the memory
of Sir John Owen, a general and supporter of Charles I., who, being taken
prisoner at a battle near Bangor, was condemned to die by the Parliament;
but through the intercession of Ireton, he was liberated after a few
months’ imprisonment.



PENMYNYDD,
(_Anglesea_.)

Beaumaris            6
Plas Newydd          5

Penmynydd is situated on the eastern side of Anglesea, near the great
post road from Bangor to Holyhead, six miles from the Menai Bridge.  It
is celebrated as being the native place of OWEN TUDOR.



PENTRE VOELAS,
(_Denbighshire_.)

Capel Curig           11
Corwen                15
Denbigh               18
Ffestiniog           14½
Llanrwst              11
Maen-Twrog            17

This is a small hamlet on the great London and Holyhead road, with a very
comfortable inn.  About four miles distant are the Conway waterfalls.  A
new road has lately been formed hence to Denbigh, and another to
Ffestiniog.



PLAS NEWYDD,
(_Anglesea_.)

Caernarvon          6
Llanidan            3

Plas Newydd (the New Mansion), anciently Llwyn Moel (the Grove on the
Hill), one of the principal groves in Anglesea, sacred to druidic
worship, once the magnificent seat of the Marquis of Anglesea, but now
occupied by T. Assheton Smith, Esq. of Vaenol.  Caernarvonshire.  It is
beautifully situated on the curve of the Menai, protected on three sides
by venerable oak trees, and about one hundred yards of the strait, with a
fine lawn in front, sloping to the edge of the water, and defended from
the encroachment of the sea by a strong parapet embattled wall.

Here the noble proprietor had the distinguished honour of entertaining
his late Majesty George the Fourth, on his visit to Ireland in 1821; and
also, at the invitation of the Noble Marquis, who was then exercising his
official duties as Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, her Royal Highness the
Duchess of Kent and her illustrious daughter, the Princess (now Queen)
Victoria, took up their residence for several weeks in the summer of
1822, during the time of holding the Eisteddfod at Beaumaris, where they
visited and occasionally resided.

Opposite the stables, behind the house, stands the most complete cromlech
in Anglesea, perhaps in Britain; and the domains abound with most
interesting vestiges of antiquity.

A short distance from Plas Newydd, is Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful cottage,
in the formation and embellishment of which that gentleman has displayed
peculiar taste; and about half a mile to the west, within the park, is
Plasgwyn, the seat of the lute Rev. Henry Rowlands, and also Llanidan
Hall, the seat of Lord Boston.

On Craig-y-Dinas, a rock on the side of the London and Holyhead road,
about midway between the Menai bridge and Plas Newydd, stands the
Anglesea Column, erected to commemorate the exploits of the noble
marquis.  The first stone was laid June 18, 1816, being the anniversary
of the battle of Waterloo; and the pillar was completed September 8 in
the following year.  Its height from the base is 100 feet, and the summit
of the hill on which it is built rises 260 feet above the level of the
sea.  It forms an interesting and commanding object in the romantic
scenery of the neighbourhood.



PONT-Y-GLYN,
(_Denbighshire_.)

Bala            12
Corwen           6

Pont-y-Glyn (the Bridge of the Precipices) is situated on the great
Holyhead and London road, between Corwen and Cerniogan Mawr.  The woody
glen, at the head of which stands Pont-y-Glyn, with its prominent rocks,
nearly obscured by the surrounding foliage, forms a lovely picture.  On a
sudden turn of the road, stands the bridge thrown over a chasm.  Beneath
is the rugged and precipitous bed of the river, where, among immense
masses and fragments of rocks, the stream foams with violent impetuosity.
The cataract is not lofty, but from its being directly under the bridge,
where it is seen dashing among the dark opposing rocks, with the addition
of the pendant foliage from each side, the scene is finely picturesque
and elegant.  The bridge rests upon the two nearly perpendicular rocks,
and appears to be 50 or 60 feet above the bed of the stream.  The view
thence down the hollow is truly sublime.



PWLLHELI
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Caernarvon           20
Chester              93
Cricaeth              8
London              250
Nevyn                 7

Pwllheli, or the Salt Water Pit, is a pleasant market-town and sea-port,
the population of which is about 1500.  The market is held on Wednesday
and Saturday.  The Crown and Anchor, where post-chaises may be had, is
accounted the principal inn; the Ship and Ivy Bush are respectable.  The
town, which is well built, has become a place of some resort for bathing.
The parish church, which is situated about half a mile to the north of
the town, is small and dilapidated.  A new church, dedicated to St.
Peter, was consecrated by the Bishop of Bangor September 16th, 1834.  It
is a neat and chaste edifice, capable of accommodating a large
congregation.  Two banks have branches here, the North and South Wales
and the National Provincial.

The town-hall, erected in 1818, is a neat substantial edifice, the lower
part of which is appropriated on market-days as shambles, and the upper
part contains an excellent assembly room, and a room in which the petty
sessions are held.  The commerce consists entirely in the importation of
coal and of shop goods from Liverpool, for the supply of which to the
surrounding country Pwllheli forms a great depôt, and is esteemed the
cheapest place for living in North Wales.  This is one of the
contributory boroughs which, with Caernarvon, returns a member to
parliament.—The surrounding scenery comprehends many pictures of grandeur
and of beauty; and a view from the town, embracing the whole extent of
the Snowdon mountains, the Merionethshire hills, and Cardigan bay, is
truly magnificent.  Several improvements are in progress at Pwllheli.



RHUDDLAN,
(_Flintshire_.)

Abergele            5
Flint              16
Holywell           11
London            220

Rhuddlan contains, with the chapelry of Rhyl, 2415 inhabitants.  The town
lies in a flat, on the eastern hank of the river Clwyd, about two miles
from its influx into the sea.  The river is here a little extended in
width, so as, at high water, to admit vessels of 50 tons up to the
bridge.

Rhuddlan was formerly a place of considerable magnitude, but no traces of
its former importance are left, except in the ruins of its ancient
castle.  Edward the First annexed to it the privileges of a free borough,
to facilitate an intercourse between the Welsh and English, for the
purpose of allaying the rooted enmity and the unhappy jealousies that had
for centuries rent the two countries.  In all his proceedings, this
monarch exhibited strong features of policy.  He had been early taught
that when stratagem would supply the place of men and treasure, it was at
least wise, if not always just, to adopt it.  Hence originated the
statute of Rhuddlan, and hence was his infant son proclaimed Prince of
Wales.  This statute, which was passed in parliament assembled here in
the year 1283, contains a set of regulations for the government of Wales;
it also recites many curious particulars relative to the Welsh customs
previous to Edward’s conquest, against which it was in a great measure
directed.

Betwixt the town and the sea is a large marsh called Morva Rhuddlan (the
Marsh of Rhuddlan), where, in the year 725, a dreadful battle was fought
between the Saxons, under Offa, king of Mercia, and the Welsh, in which
the latter, after an obstinate conflict, were defeated with great
slaughter, Carodoc, king of North Wales, and many of his principal
chieftains, being among the slain.  Such of the Welsh as escaped the
sword of the enemy, perished in the marsh, from the influx of the tides;
and all who were taken prisoners were inhumanly massacred, without regard
to age or sex.  In commemoration of this disastrous event, was composed
the well-known Welsh air of “Morva Rhuddlan,” which is much admired for
the plaintive sweetness of its melody.

The bridge at Rhuddlan consists of two arches, built or rebuilt in 1595,
with an impression of the arms of Hughes, Bishop of St. Asaph, upon one
of the battlements.

At a private house is shewn part of the building where Edward the First
held the parliament which passed the statute of Rhuddlan, in 1283; the
observation of the tourist will be directed to it by the following
inscription on the building:—“This fragment is the remains of the
building where King Edward the First held his parliament, A.D. 1283, in
which was passed the statute of Rhuddlan, securing the Principality its
judicial rights and independence.”


Rhuddlan Castle


is built of red stone, nearly square, and has six towers.  The principal
entrance appears to have been at the north-west angle, betwixt two round
towers; the two opposite to these are much shattered, but the others are
in a better state of preservation.  There is some difference of opinion
as to the period at which this castle was erected.  Two celebrated
historians, Powel and Camden, attribute it to Llywelyn ap Sitsyllt, who
reigned in Wales at the commencement of the eleventh century, and made it
the place of his residence.  In 1063, three years before William the
Conqueror came to the throne, Rhuddlan castle was in the possession of
Gruffydd ap Llywelyn, prince of North Wales.  It was in that year
attacked and burnt by Harold, the son of Godwin, Earl of Kent (afterwards
King of England), in retaliation for some depredations committed by the
Welsh on the English borders.  It was subsequently the scene of many
interesting historical events.

In 1399, the castle was seized by the Earl of Northumberland, previous to
the deposition of Richard the Second, who dined here, in company with the
Earl, in his way to Flint, where he was treacherously delivered into the
power of his rival, Bolingbroke.

In the civil wars, Rhuddlan was garrisoned for the King, but was
surrendered to General Mytton in July, 1646, and in the December
following was ordered by the parliament to be dismantled.—It is at
present the property of the Bodryddan family.

             ANGLING STATION.—Cwm, three miles from Rhuddlan.



RHYL,
(_Flintshire_.)

Abergele            8
Chester            30
Holywell           13
St. Asaph           5

Rhyl is situated at the termination of the Vale of Clwyd, near the mouth
of the river from which that beautiful valley takes its name, and is much
frequented as a bathing place during the summer months, for which
purpose, both from its immediate contiguity to the sea, and the extent
and firmness of its sands, it is admirably adapted.  There are excellent
and commodious hotels, with smaller inns and lodging houses, intermingled
with several neat cottages, occupied for the summer residences of some of
the wealthy neighbours.  There are machines for the accommodation of
bathers, and hot and cold baths, supplied with sea water, to which are
attached billiard and news rooms, and a spacious bowling green.

A church has been erected, capable of containing 500 persons, in which
there is Divine service in the English language every Sunday.
Steam-packets ply regularly from Rhyl to Liverpool three times a week,
and occasionally from Rhyl to Beaumaris, affording its visitors an
opportunity of seeing some of the magnificent scenery of the Welsh coast.
Cars may be obtained at any time from the principal inns, and there is an
omnibus on the Voryd side, which runs regularly from Abergele, to meet
the packets.  Extensive and important local improvements have lately been
effected, to add to the attractions of Rhyl as a marine residence.

The shore presents no very striking scenery; still the antique castle of
Rhuddlan, in its sober hues, and the dark range of Clwydian hills,
stretching far into the distance, afford a scene of no ordinary beauty.
To the south is seen the bold promontory of the Great Ormeshead, beyond
which is Puffin Island; and when days are bright and skies are clear, the
distant hills of Cumberland may be dimly seen, losing themselves beyond
the waters of the Irish Sea.—Provisions of all kinds are cheap; and milk,
vegetables, and poultry, are abundantly supplied by the neighbouring
farmers.  The lover of angling may find an opportunity of enjoying his
favourite amusement, as the Clwyd and Elwy, both celebrated trout
streams, are within one hour’s walk.



RUABON,
(_Denbighshire_.)

Chirk               4½
Denbigh             28
Llangollen           7
Wrexham             5½

Ruabon, or Rhiw-abon, is a village containing about 1300 inhabitants,
situated on the road from Oswestry to Wrexham and Chester.  The church,
dedicated to St. Mary, is an interesting and venerable structure, in
which are several splendid marble monuments.  There is one by Rhysbrac,
to the memory of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, who was killed by a fall from
his horse, on the 26th of September, 1749, aged 41 years; the figure is
in a graceful attitude, as in the act of addressing an assembly.  An
elegant Latin inscription, the composition of the late Dr. King, of St.
Mary’s Hall, Oxford, enumerates in eloquent detail his mental abilities,
social qualities, and public and private virtues.

There are likewise two monuments by Nollekens, one to the memory of the
late Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart., and the other to his wife, Lady
Rennetta Williams Wynn.  The latter represents that amiable lady in the
character of Hope, standing and reclining on an urn.  The countenance,
attitude, and drapery, are exquisitely fine.  The figure stands on a
pedestal, on which, in high relievo, is a coiled serpent, hieroglyphical
of eternity; and within is an inscription indicating that her ladyship
was third daughter of Charles Noel, Duke of Beaufort, and died July 25,
1769, at the early age of 23.  The church was thoroughly repaired in
1772, at the expense of the first Sir Watkin, who presented an organ and
a small but elegant font of white marble, on the occasion of the baptism
of his eldest son, the late baronet.  Dr. David Powel, the Welsh
historian, who was instituted to this vicarage in the year 1571, was
interred here.

In the neighbourhood are numerous iron works and collieries.  The British
iron company has very extensive works at Acrevair, in which several
hundred men are constantly employed.  There are considerable coal works
at Cefn-Mawr, a large and populous village on the northern bank of the
Dee, near an elegant bridge thrown over the river, called New Bridge.
The Eagles or Wynnstay Arms Inn is a respectable house.  Ruabon is one of
the principal stations of the Shrewsbury and Chester Railway.—A short
distance from the inn is


Wynnstay.


This extensive park, which is twelve miles in circumference, is entered
from the village by a plain but handsome gateway of modern erection,
opening into a straight avenue, nearly a mile in length, composed of
lofty trees of ancient growth, in which venerable oaks, stately elms,
beeches, and chesnuts, are intermingled; and at the extremity of which is
the mansion, the hospitable residence of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart.,
beautifully situated on a fine and extensive lawn, gently sloping to a
noble and picturesque lake.  The older portion of the building contains
the domestic offices and general departments for the accommodation of the
household.  The modern part, erected by the first Sir Watkin, and
enlarged by the late baronet, is spacious and substantial structure: the
interior comprises several noble apartments, embellished with some
excellent family portraits, by Sir Joshua Reynolds and some of the best
masters, two full length paintings of Charles II. and his Queen, and
several other pictures of merit.

The park is enriched with some of the noblest trees in the Principality,
and comprehends much variety and beauty of scenery: there are handsome
lodge entrances into it from various parts of the surrounding district.

At a short distance from the hall, situated in charming pleasure grounds,
is a cold bath, near which stands a handsome fluted column, erected after
a design by the late Mr. James Wyatt: it is one hundred feet high,
ornamented on the faces with festooned wreaths of oak leaves, and at the
angles with eagles, finely moulded in bronze; the capital is surmounted
by an entablature supporting a circular platform, surrounded with an iron
balustrade, to which there is an ascent from the interior by a flight of
spiral steps, and having in the centre a circular pedestal, twelve feet
high, on which is placed a massive vase of bronze, enriched with goats’
heads.  Over the door leading to the ascent, is a tablet bearing the
following inscription:—“To the memory of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart.
who died on the 29th of July, MDCCLXXXIX. this column was erected by his
affectionate mother, Frances Williams Wynn;” and on the north side, in
letters of copper, is the inscription—“Filium optimus.  Mater, eheu!
superstes.”  Near this column is a fine sheet of water, bounded by Watt’s
Dyke, which here intersects the park, and from which the mansion
originally derived the name of Wattstay, changed by Sir John Wynn, to its
present appellation.

Near the southern extremity of the woods is a cenotaph, erected by the
late Sir Watkin, from a design by Sir Jeffrey Wyatville, to the memory of
his brother officers and soldiers who were slain during the rebellion in
Ireland in 1798: it stands on an eminence overlooking a deep ravine,
called Nant y Bele (the Dingle of the Marten), through which the river
Dee urges it rapid course along a narrow channel, richly fringed with
impending woods.  From this spot there is a most magnificent prospect,
embracing a vast extent of the counties of Caernarvon, Denbigh, Flint,
Chester, and Salop, Chirk Castle and its noble park, the whole of the
beautiful vale of Llangollen, including the stupendous aqueduct of
Pont-y-Cysylltau, and the majestic ruins of Castell Dinas Brân, with the
stately range of mountains in the distance.

A gay archery _fête_ of the British Bowmen, attended by 300 of the
aristocracy of the kingdom, was held at Wynnstay in 1846.

                        ANGLING STATION.—The Dee.



RUTHIN,
(_Denbighshire_.)

Bala                 22
Chester              22
Corwen               12
Denbigh               8
Llangollen           15
London              210
Mold                 10
St. Asaph            14
Wrexham              18

Ruthin (Rhudd-ddin or Rhuthyn) is beautifully situated on the aclivity of
an eminence in the picturesque Vale of Clwyd, at the base of which and
through the lower part of the town flows the river from which the vale
takes its name, at this place an inconsiderable stream, serving only to
work some mills in the neighbourhood.  The parish contains 3333
inhabitants.  The appearance of the town is pleasing, and the
neighbourhood is embellished with numerous gentlemen’s seats, and
commands much varied scenery.  The principal inns are the White Lion and
Cross Foxes.

The government of Ruthin is vested in a municipal corporation.  It is one
of the contributory boroughs, with Denbigh, Holt, and Wrexham, to return
a member to parliament.  Ruthin has been made a polling-place in the
election of knights of the shire; and from its central situation, it has
been selected, in preference to the town of Denbigh, for holding the
assizes for the county: the quarter sessions are held alternately here
and at Denbigh.  The town-hall, situated in the market-place, was built
in 1663, and is used for holding the courts leet and baron.  Prior to the
erection of the county-hall, the quarter sessions were held there.  The
county-hall is a modern structure, fronted with white stone, and, with
the county gaol and house of correction, also situated here, is highly
creditable to the skill of the architect, Mr. Turner.

The church is an interesting and ancient structure, with a fine roof of
carved oak, panelled, richly sculptured, and apparently of the time of
Henry the Seventh.  The church was changed into a collegiate chapter A.D.
1310, by John de Grey, who formed an establishment of several regular
canons, and endowed it with valuable lands and numerous privileges.  The
apartments of the canons were connected with the church by a cloister, of
which a remaining portion has been converted into a residence for the
warden.

The town contains an endowed free grammar school, a national school
supported by voluntary subscriptions, and places of worship for various
dissenting congregations.—The present rector is the Venerable Archdeacon
Newcome, author of Memoirs of Dr. Goodman, Dean of Westminster, and Dr.
Godfrey Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester, and also of some local histories.

The ancient castle occupied the declivity of a hill, fronting the Vale of
Clwyd towards the west, and, from the extensive foundations and remaining
portions of the walls, appears to have been a structure of great strength
and magnificence: the remains consist chiefly of fragments of the towers,
dungeons, and ruined walls.  This fortress was built by Edward the First,
who in 1281 gave it, with the hundred of Dyffryn Clwyd, to Reginald de
Grey; from the family of Greys it devolved to Richard Earl of Kent, who
sold it to Henry the Seventh.  It was afterwards granted to Dudley Earl
of Warwick, by Queen Elizabeth.  After the restoration, the castle and
its dependencies were purchased by Sir Richard Myddelton.

The elegant castellated mansion erected by the Hon. F. West, within the
ruins of the old castle, forms a beautiful feature in the prospect of the
town.  The architect having blended the ancient and modern parts with
harmonious effect, the structure displays great taste on the part of the
projector.  From various parts of the site are several rich and extensive
prospects.  No tourist should omit a visit to Ruthin Castle, which
abounds with objects of interest to the student of British history.

Near the town-hall is a rude block of lime-stone, called Maen Huail, on
which, it is said, the celebrated Prince Arthur beheaded his rival Huail,
brother to Gildas the historian.  Ruthin mill, a curious ancient edifice,
having on the apex of the eastern gable a red stone cross, is supposed to
have been originally the chapel of the cell of White Friars, mentioned by
Leland as formerly existing here, but of which no records are preserved.

Dr. Goodman, Dean of Westminster, one of the translators of Archbishop
Parker’s Bible, and principal promoter of Bishop Morgan’s Welsh
translation; Edward Thelwall, tutor to Lord Herbert of Chirbury; Dr.
Parry, Bishop of St. Asaph; Dr. Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester; Sir Eubule
Thelwall, Knt., principal and second founder of Jesus College, Oxford;
and Sir Thomas Exmewe, Lord Mayor of London in 1517, were natives of this
place.


Vale of Clwyd.


This beautiful valley, called by the Welsh Dyffryn Clwyd (the Vale of the
Flat), commences three or four miles south of Ruthin; enclosed by
mountains, whose brown and barren summits form a fine contrast to the
verdant meads and luxuriant fields beneath, which as far as the eye can
reach present a most pleasing picture.  Towns, villages, and mansions,
thickly studded over the country, tend still more to enliven the cheering
scene, which is exceedingly beautiful and attractive.

This vale is the most extensive of any in Wales, being about twenty-four
miles in length, above Ruthin to Rhuddlan, and varying from five to seven
miles in breadth; it contains the three considerable towns of Denbigh,
Ruthin, and St. Asaph.  There are several of the adjacent heights whence
the vale may be seen to advantage; such are the Bwlch Pen-Barras, on the
old road to Mold, about four miles from Ruthin, and that part of the new
road by which the traveller descends into the vale, commencing about
three miles from the latter town; but the best station for an extended
view, is the eastern ridge of the mountain, between Dymeirchion and
Bodfari, about three hundred yards from Bryn Bella.  The view presents a
most enchanting panorama of natural scenery.

                       ANGLING STATION.—The Clwyd.



ST. ASAPH,
(_Flintshire_.)

Abergele            7
Conway             18
Chester            28
Denbigh             6
Holywell           10
London            217
Rhuddlan            3

St. Asaph, commonly called Llan Elwy, derived its origin and name from
the erection of a church on the bank of the river Elwy, about the middle
of the sixth century.  The city is beautifully situated on the gentle
aclivity of an eminence, washed on the eastern side by the river Clwyd,
and on the west by the Elwy, which unite at the distance of about a mile
to the north.  The parish contains 3338 inhabitants.  Over the Elwy, at
the extremity of the principal street, is a handsome stone bridge of five
arches; and over the Clwyd is a fine bridge of more modern erection,
within a quarter of a mile to the east of the cathedral church.  The
White Lion and the Mostyn Arms are the principal inns.  St. Asaph has
been added to the other boroughs of this county, now eight in number,
which unitedly return one member to parliament.

The approach from Holywell to St. Asaph is commodious and picturesque.
The view of the city is peculiarly striking; its elevated situation on an
eminence near the termination of the rich and fertile Vale of Clwyd,
crowned on the summit with the cathedral, and having the parish church at
its base, makes it a conspicuous object from every point; and the
luxuriant groves of trees in which it is deeply embosomed, give to it a
romantic appearance.  The surrounding scenery, which abounds with objects
of interest and beauty, is seen to great advantage from the heights of
the city and from the grounds in the immediate vicinity.

The cathedral consists chiefly of the structure raised by Bishop Anian,
the second of that name, about the year 1284, and after its demolition by
Owen Glyndwr, it was restored by Bishop Redman, towards the close of the
fifteenth century, with the exception of the choir, which was rebuilt
about the year 1770, by the Dean and Chapter, with funds which had been
vested in their hands as trustees for that purpose.  It is a cruciform
structure, principally in the decorated style of English architecture,
with a low square embattled tower, rising from the intersection of the
nave and transepts, and having at the north-east angle a staircase
turret: the exterior is of simple but good design; the buttresses are few
and of very bold character, and the arch of the west door is plainly
moulded: the east end is ornamented with a window, which is said to be a
fac-simile of the east window in Tintern abbey, in Monmouthshire, and in
1810 was filled with beautifully stained glass, at the expense of the
Dean and Chapter, aided by the contributions of the gentry in the
neighbourhood.  The “good Bishop Beveridge” was consecrated to this see
in 1704.

The interior of the cathedral contains some interesting monuments; an
altar-tomb, with a recumbent figure in episcopal robes, is said to
commemorate the munificent prelate, Davydd ab Owen, who was interred here
in 1512; and near the west door is a painted tomb, with an inscription to
the memory of Bishop Isaac Barrow, who died in 1680.  There is a monument
of white marble, to the memory of Dean Shipley, by Ternouth, erected by
subscription about the year 1829, at an expense of £600, consisting of a
full-length figure of the Dean in his canonicals, in a sitting posture;
and also a neat altar-tomb monument to the memory of Bishop Luxmore, who
died in January, 1830, from a design by T. Jones, Esq. of Chester.  Among
other objects of interest to admirers of taste and genius, we may mention
a mural tablet to the memory of that charming poetess, the gifted Mrs.
Hemans.  The choir is neatly fitted up, and the general appearance of the
interior remarkably gratifying, from its appropriate solemnity and the
excellent order in which it is kept.  A new organ was erected a few years
since.

The episcopal palace, situated at a short distance to the west of the
cathedral, was rebuilt upon a more extensive scale and in an appropriate
style, at the expense of the late Bishop.  The deanery, about a quarter
of a mile from the cathedral, and on the west bank of the river Elwy, was
also rebuilt by the present Dean.  Dr. T. V. Short is the present Bishop
of St. Asaph.  The parochial church, dedicated to St. Asaph and St.
Kentegern, is situated at the base of the eminence, of which the
cathedral occupies the summit; it is a small edifice without a tower, and
is supposed to have been erected about the year 1524.  There are places
of worship for Independents, and Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists.

The views in the neighbourhood are delightfully picturesque and varied.

                 [Picture: Picture of fishermen on lake]

There are numerous elegant mansions within the parish; among the most
conspicuous are—Kinmel, the seat of Lord Dinorben; Bodelwyddan, the seat
of Sir John Williams, Bart., one of the handsomest residences of North
Wales; Pengwern, that of Lord Mostyn, built about the beginning of the
last century; Cefn, that of Edward Lloyd, Esq.; and Bronwylfa, the
residence of Colonel Sir Henry Browne, erected in the year 1660, and
enlarged in 1816.  In this last mansion are some valuable trophies taken
during the late war, amongst which are, Napoleon Buonaparte’s travelling
map and book of roads of the French empire, in splendid morocco cases,
emblazoned with the imperial arms, taken from his library at
Fontainbleau, by Sir Henry, in 1815 and a French field-marshal’s baton,
two feet three inches in length, covered with purple velvet, ornamented
with golden bees, and surmounted with an imperial crown, taken in
Silesia, in 1812, by a division of Blucher’s corps.

In the township of Cefn Meriadog are some magnificent natural caverns,
extending for a considerable distance into the limestone rocks; in some
parts of those the roof is more than forty feet in height, and near the
river Elwy the base of the rock is perforated by a lofty natural arch, 21
yards in length, and 36 feet high, through which is a road capable of
admitting a wagon loaded with hay.  Various fossil remains have been
found in these caverns, which have been considered by Professor Buckland
as worthy of a personal scrutiny on the spot.

           ANGLING STATION.—Bodfari, four miles from St. Asaph.



SNOWDON,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)


A chain of the highest mountains in Wales extends across Caernarvonshire,
from Bardsey Island to Penmaen Bach, near Conway bay, gradually rising
from each extremity towards the centre, which is occupied by Snowdon.
The name of this mountain was first given to it by the Saxons, and
signifies a hill covered with snow; but the Welsh call all this adjacent
range Creigian-yr-Eyri (the Eagle’s Cliffs;) for it is not true, as has
been asserted, that snow may be found upon it through the whole year.
The temperature at the summit is generally very low, even in summer.  In
July, just after sunrise, the thermometer has been observed at 34 deg.
and in August at 48 deg. early in the afternoon.

The perpendicular height of Snowdon is by late admeasurements 1190 yards
above the level of the sea.  This makes it, according to Pennant, 240
yards higher than Cader Idris.  Some state Whernside, in Yorkshire, to be
the highest mountain in South Britain, and more than 4000 feet.  Helvelyn
is 3324 feet, Benlomond 3262.  Mont Blanc rises 15,680 feet; the American
Chimboraco is 20,909 feet, the highest ground ever trodden by man; and
the mountain of Thibet above 25,000 feet, the highest at present known.

The air on the top of Snowdon is sharp and bracing, and like that in all
other mountain districts, is salubrious and congenial to health and
longevity.  It is seldom that persons who have taste and leisure visit
this part of Caernarvonshire without ascending to the top of our British
Alps; and those who make a tour from motives of curiosity would think the
omission almost inexcusable.  An important consideration for the tourist
is the point whence he should commence the ascent for the towering summit
of this majestic mountain.  Dolbadarn, Llyn Cwellyn, Beddgelert, and
Llanberis, all put in their claims for eligibility as a starting-place,
and at each of these stations trusty guides may be engaged.  We are
inclined to the opinion that the Victoria Hotel at Llanberis is the spot
from which the most easy and convenient ascent may be effected.

It may readily be imagined that every resting point in climbing this
commanding eminence must reveal, amidst the magnificent scenery of so
romantic a district, views of surpassing grandeur and beauty: and such
indeed is the case to an extent which the most vivid imagination can
scarcely conceive.  The enthusiastic author of “The Beauties, Harmonies,
and Sublimity of Nature,” gives the following glowing description of the
prospects from the summit:—

    “After climbing over masses of crags and rocks, we ascended the peak
    of Snowdon.  Arrived at its summit, a scene presented itself
    magnificent beyond the powers of language!  Indeed, language is
    indigent and impotent when it would presume to sketch scenes on which
    the Great Eternal has placed his matchless finger with delight.
    Faint are thy broad and deep delineations, immortal Salvator Rosa!
    Powerless and feeble are your inspirations, genius of Thomson,
    Virgil, and Lucretius!  From this point are seen five-and-twenty
    lakes.  Seated on one of its crags, it was long before the eye,
    unaccustomed to measure such elevations, could accommodate itself to
    scenes so admirable; the whole appearing as if there had been a war
    of the elements, and as if we were the only inhabitants of the globe
    permitted to contemplate the ruins of the world.  Rocks and
    mountains, which, when observed from below, bear all the evidence of
    sublimity, when viewed from the summit of Snowdon, are blended with
    others as dark, as rugged, and as elevated as themselves; the whole
    resembling the swellings of an agitated ocean.  The extent of this
    prospect appears almost unlimited.  The four kingdoms are seen at
    once: Wales, England, Scotland, and Ireland! forming the finest
    panorama the empire can boast.  The circle begins with the mountains
    of Cumberland and Westmoreland; those of Ingleborough and Penygent,
    in the county of York, and the hills of Lancashire forefollow; then
    are observed the counties of Chester, Flint, Denbigh, and a portion
    of Montgomeryshire.  Nearly the whole of Merioneth succeeds; and
    drawing a line with the eye along the diameter of the circle, we take
    in the regions stretching from the triple crown of Cader Idris to the
    sterile crags of Carnedds David and Llywelyn.  Snowdon, rising in the
    centre, appears as if he could touch the south with his right hand,
    and the north with his left.  ‘Surely,’ thought Colonna, ‘Cesar sat
    upon these crags, when he formed the daring conception of governing
    the world!’  From Cader Idris, the eye, pursuing the orbit of the
    bold geographical line, glances over the bay of Cardigan, and reposes
    for a while on the summit of the Rivals.  After observing the
    indented shores of Caernarvonshire, it travels along a line of ocean,
    till, in the extremity of the horizon, the blue mountains of Wicklow
    terminate the perspective.  Those mountains gradually sink along the
    coast till they are lost to the eye; which, ranging along the
    expanse, at length, as weary of the journey, reposes on the Island of
    Man, and the distant mountains of Scotland.  The intermediate space
    is occupied by the sides and summits of mountains, hollow crags,
    masses of rocks, the towers of Caernarvon, the fields of Anglesea,
    with woods, lakes, and glens, scattered in magnificent confusion.  A
    scene like this commands our feelings to echo, as it were, in unison
    to its grandeur and sublimity: the thrill of astonishment, and the
    transport of imagination, seem to contend for the mastery, and nerves
    are touched that never thrilled before.”

But it is not always thus.  Earthly pleasures are often greater in the
anticipation than the enjoyment; and ardent hopes are subject to
occasional disappointments.  Bright as the day may be, mountain mists
will sometimes intervene, and passing clouds suddenly draw a curtain over
these glorious revelations of Almighty Power.  Take, for instance, the
narrative of the King of Saxony’s ascent up Snowdon in July, 1844, his
Majesty’s excursion being made from Beddgelert:—

    “Early this morning, according to our previous design, we made the
    ascent of Snowdon: the appearance of the weather was by no means
    encouraging, the sky was lowering, and the clouds hung deep around
    the mountain top.  Still there was no rain, many signs of a
    favourable change, and we took our chance of the advantages in our
    favour and set out.  We made early preparation for our journey, and,
    at seven o’clock, mounted a light carriage, accompanied by a skilful
    guide.  We followed the road towards the foot of the mountain, as far
    up its flank as it was accessible to any description of carriage.  We
    commenced the ascent.  Our path lay for some distance over wet
    pasture and spongy meadows; after which, the path became steeper, and
    occasional masses of bold projecting rocks occurred.  We were not the
    only travellers, whom the day tempted to try their good fortune on
    the summit of the highest mountain in England.  Some ladies, mounted
    on ponies, rode sometimes before and sometimes behind us, and several
    parties followed them on foot.  The summit of the mountain lay
    concealed in clouds; the rocks stood forth bold and black from the
    green of the Alpine meadows, on which the beautiful yellow
    _anthericum ossifragum_ grows in great profusion, and a cold wind
    blew from the ravines which skirted our path.  A young Alpine lark,
    only imperfectly fledged, fluttered along the ground before our feet;
    our guide easily caught it with his hands, but the old ones flew
    around, uttering such painful screams, that I induced him again to
    put the poor panting little creature upon the grass, behind a large
    block of stone.  When we ascended a little further, the view to the
    westward became partially free, and we saw the sea, the isle of
    Anglesea, and Caernarvon Castle.  As we ascended, however, the clouds
    again closed around us, and finally we found ourselves completely
    enveloped in the penetrating fog of these moist goddesses.  The
    ascent also in many places now became difficult; the wind blew cold
    along the side of some rocky walls, or from the depths of some
    neighbouring ravine; the thick fogs continued to roll more densely
    along the mountain sides; but fortunately, so far, they did not
    thoroughly penetrate our clothes with their moisture.

    “Still onward, from height to height! deep ravines lay at our side,
    the bottom of which, filled with thick fog, yawned horribly below.
    Vegetation now almost wholly disappeared, except merely a few rare
    Alpine plants, and on every side of us rose lofty crags of black
    _chlorite slate_.  Having taken some repose after the efforts of the
    ascent, behind a projecting rock which sheltered us from the wind, we
    again set forth, and in about a quarter of an hour (two hours in all)
    we reached the pinnacle of the mountain—4348 feet above the level of
    the sea.  View there was none!  We found refuge in a small wooden
    shed, erected for the protection of travellers from the rain and
    wind, in which the host kept up a welcome fire.  The man presently
    prepared a singular brown mixture, which he sold for coffee, and
    furnished some grayish oatmeal cake as an accompaniment.  There were
    no spirituous liquors of any description to be had, because the
    occupier, with no small degree of self-satisfaction, gave us to
    understand that his wooden hut was to be regarded as a _Temperance
    Inn_.  Not far from this mountain hotel, which I must state to be the
    first imperfect house of accommodation we had yet met in England, was
    a small stone hut, in which the rest of the travellers, together with
    their ponies, had found a harbour not much better than our own.

    “Having spent some time upon the summit, dried ourselves, and ranged
    about among the craggy rocks and through the fog, we found our visit
    was in vain—no hopes of the weather clearing were longer entertained,
    and we prepared to proceed on our descent.  Before we had descended
    far from the summit, the clouds presented occasional breaks, and we
    were able to snatch partial views into the beautiful deep valleys
    which lie between the converging ridges of the mountain; and on one
    occasion the clouds rose like a curtain, and revealed to us a
    splendid prospect of the sea.  In these occasional glimpses, we
    perceived for a moment that the declivities of the mountain were
    enjoying the full beams of the sun, and immediately we were again
    closely enveloped in our foggy mantle of clouds.  There was a
    continual play of currents of air and waves of fog with the earth.
    Such phenomena furnish highly interesting subjects of contemplation
    to those who have greater leisure for their contemplation than we
    ourselves had.  Of such extraordinary atmospheric phenomena, however,
    it may be said, they show the life of the clouds, but cloud the image
    of life!  If, however, the observation of such phenomena be made the
    chief object of a whole excursion, they will be found to have
    something in them unsatisfying.  The unconscious life of nature
    always falls in value in the eyes of him who has thought upon and
    experienced the mighty movements and impulses of the mind and
    feelings.  As I have already said, what signify earth, and suns, and
    planets, if there were no eye to see, no intelligence to give them
    life?

    “Having proceeded somewhat further on the descent, our guide prepared
    to follow a different route in our return, through a deep precipitous
    valley, in which the king immediately acquiesced.  The task, however,
    was by no means easy; it involved the necessity of going straight
    down a sharp declivity of the mountain, at least 1000 feet high, and
    very sparingly covered with moist earth and tufts of grass.  We were
    obliged to aid ourselves as well as we could by the firmness of our
    tread, taking a zigzag course, and by the appliances of our hands and
    sticks, at length reached the bottom in safety.  The path, however
    formidable to us, would, undoubtedly, not have presented many
    difficulties to a well-trained Alpine hunter; to those, however, who
    are not accustomed to such clambering, it must be regarded as making
    a severe demand upon the exercise of their muscular power, and as a
    species of training which, when successfully completed, must always
    result in good.  Even on reaching the valley, there was no path, and
    we were obliged to make our way over stock and stone, through bog and
    brook, till we came to a lower and a smoother region.  During our
    descent, we were obliged to endure the alternative of heat and cold,
    of sunshine and rain; at length we reached some mines, at which rude
    paths began to appear, and presently after found ourselves at our
    carriages, and drove by another road again back to Beddgelert.  On
    this road, too, we enjoyed the sight of some splendid mountain
    scenery.  The weather had now become clear and sunny, while the top
    of Snowdon still lay thickly enveloped in masses of dark clouds.  A
    small lake lay stretched out before us in the vale, full of
    picturesque beauty, and noble mountains beside and beyond, rose and
    towered one above another.  I heartily envied an artist who had
    established his _studio_ on the edge of a mountain brook, and
    appeared to be diligently engaged in his work.  What a pleasure it
    must be, to be engaged in an attempt to give a faithful delineation
    of such noble forms!  About half-past two we reached the hotel at
    Beddgelert, and our mountain excursion was at an end.”

Let us be very earnest in impressing upon the minds of all tourists one
important injunction,—_never ascend Snowdon without a guide_.  It is
unwise and perilous, even in the brightest weather, to make such an
attempt.  A melancholy instance of this venturous spirit occurred in the
autumn of 1846, when the Rev. H. S. Starr, of Northampton, ascended the
mountain without a guide; and doubtless perished in some of its bogs or
precipitous defiles, as from that period till now, no trace of this
unfortunate clergyman has been discovered.

                   For Angling Stations, see Llanberis.



TAL-Y-LLYN,
(_Merionethshire_.)

Dolgelley               8
Dinas Mowddwy          11
Machynlleth             8
Towyn                  10

This is a very picturesque little village, about half way between
Machynlleth and Dolgelley, deriving its name from the church, at the head
of a beautiful lake, appropriately called Llyn Mwyngil, (The Lake of the
Charming Retreat,) from the west end of which issues the river Dysyni,
taking its course to the sea through Towyn Marsh.  The scenery is
remarkably romantic, and is rendered more so by the lakes which are
within the limits of the parish.  That of Tal-y-llyn is small but
beautiful; its greatest breadth is not more than half a mile, and its
length between one and two miles.  Its northern boundaries consist of
rich pasture land, while on the south a high green hill, covered only
with short herbage, in fact a mere sheep walk, rears itself to the
clouds, and extends the whole length.  Its only piscatory productions are
trout and eels; the latter attaining a good size, and finding a safe
protection in the deep coat of moss which covers the bottom.  Of the
trout there are two species, the large lake trout and the common river
trout, the latter finding their way into the lake by two or three streams
which feed it from the mountain; these never attain any considerable
size, but the others, being indigenous to the pool, grow to a large size.
The finest, which are caught with a fly, vary from half a pound to
between one and two pounds; one weighing more than 12lb. was found a few
winters ago, frozen under the ice.  The lake is the property of Colonel
Vaughan, who purchased it for no other purpose than that of affording his
friends the enjoyment of angling therein.  The stranger, who is perfectly
unknown to the generous-hearted Welshman, is equally welcome to
participate in the sport, without the formality of begging a day’s
fishing, or even intimating his intention to the proprietor.  A new and
commodious inn, near the village, was built last year by Colonel Vaughan:
it affords good accommodations, and the charges are very moderate.

Beside the lake already mentioned, there is another under the summit of
Cader Idris, called Llyn Cau, (the Pool of the Chasm,) from its being
situated under vast cliffs; it is about a quarter of a mile long, and
nearly of equal breadth, and has the appearance of the crater of a
volcano, at the head of the chasm, through which a stream runs from the
lake, and forms a fine cataract, close to the ancient house of Dolydd
Cau, and then unites with another river, which meanders along the level
vale below, to the upper end of Llyn Mwyngil.  The vale in which it is
situated is so contracted, as to leave, for a considerable part of its
length, only a very narrow road on each side of the lake, from the clear
surface of which are reflected its precipitous declivities.  Towards the
extremity of the vale, the lake contracts gradually into the form of a
river, rushing with much force through a stone arch into a very narrow
pass, having on one side the church, and on the other a small cluster of
houses, which form the village, embosomed in trees, and assuming a
romantically beautiful appearance.

At the distance of a mile or two from the church, the hills almost meet,
and present a sterile and rugged aspect; they are broken into numberless
crags, of which some are vertical and sharply pointed, but the greater
number project horizontally, and impend with threatening gloom over the
vale beneath.  One of these precipices, from its resemblance in form to a
harp, has been called Pen y Delyn; and another, from a tradition that it
was formerly the practice to throw thieves from its summit, has been
denominated Llan-y-Lladron (the Thieves’ Leap), a practice corresponding
with that related of the Tarpeian rock at Rome.

            ANGLING STATION.—The Lake: good fishing.  A boat.



TOWYN,
(_Merionethshire_.)

Aberdovey              4
Barmouth              12
Dolgelley             16
London               226
Machynlleth           14

Towyn is a market-town beautifully situated at the distance of about a
mile from the sea-coast, near the mouth of the river Dysyni, in a small
but pleasant vale.  The return of the population for the town and parish
is 2694 inhabitants.

During summer, the place is much frequented for sea-bathing, by persons
who prefer retirement to the bustle of a more fashionable watering place.
Valetudinarians are also attracted hither by St. Cadvan’s Well, much
celebrated for the cure of rheumatic, scrofulous, and cutaneous
disorders.  The ride over the sands to Aberdovey, a rising place about
four miles distant, is very pleasant.  A beautiful line of road to that
interesting village has been constructed, and is continued from that
place to Pennal, abounding with picturesque scenery, and commanding views
of Snowdon, Arran Mowddwy, Cader Idris, and Plinlimmon.

Towyn is one of the places at which the poll is appointed to be taken in
the election of the parliamentary representative of the county.  The
church, dedicated to St. Cadvan, is an ancient cruciform structure, in
the Norman style of architecture, containing some curious old monuments,
which the inquisitive stranger ought not to leave unnoticed.

On a steep hill near the town are some remains of an ancient castle of
great strength; the fortifications comprehend the entire summit of the
eminence: one of the apartments, thirty-six feet in diameter, was hewn
out of the solid rock, Craig-y-Deryn (the Bird’s Bock), situated in the
vale of Dysyni, about three or four miles from Towyn, is in the highest
degree wild and romantic.  A small but picturesque waterfall may be seen
at Dôlgôch.

At a small distance from the town is Ynys-y-maengwyn, a noble mansion,
pleasantly situated in grounds tastefully laid out, and embellished with
flourishing plantations and timber of ancient growth, among which is an
evergreen oak, considered to be the finest tree of its kind in the
kingdom.  The garden is very extensive, and contains many rare trees and
plants.

The angler will find excellent amusement in the Dysyni, which, after
rolling through a rude assemblage of rugged mountains, flows through the
fertile vale of Towyn, passing first by Peniarth, a seat belonging to the
Wynn family, and then by Ynys-y-maengwyn, and finally entering Cardigan
bay, about a mile eastward of Towyn.  This is an excellent river for
salmon, and it contains some remarkably dark and deep pools, more
especially near Peniarth, where the river winds close by the house; the
angler will also find good sport farther up the mountains.

              ANGLING STATION.—The river, up to Tal-y-Llyn.



TRAWS-FYNYDD,
(_Merionethshire_.)

Bala               18
Dolgelley          12

This village is situated on the road from Dolgelley to Tan-y-Bwlch, in an
exposed and mountainous district.  The church is an ancient structure of
the old English style of architecture; the parish is of vast extent,
being above ten miles in length, and eight in breadth, consisting chiefly
of barren mountains, used only as sheep-walks.  At this place a guide may
be had to the waterfalls of Pistyll-y-Cain and Rhaiadr-y-Mawddach,
distant about three or four miles.

On the road side towards Ffestiniog is Llyn Rathlyn, a small lake, noted
for a singular variety of perch, having the lower extremity of the
back-bone strangely distorted.  The celebrated Humphrey Lloyd, who was
consecrated Bishop of Bangor in 1673, was born at Bôd-y-Vuddai, in the
parish of Traws-fynydd.



TREMADOC,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Barmouth                       20
Ditto, by Tan-y-Bwlch          30
Beddgelert                      7
Caernarvon                     20
Ffestiniog                     13
Harlech                        10
Ditto, by Tan-y-Bwlch          20
Pwllheli                       14
Tan-y-Bwlch                    10

Tremadoc is a market-town and sea-port of very recent origin, and is a
signal instance of the triumph of perseverance over apparently
insurmountable local difficulties.  It derives its name from its
enterprising founder, the late Wm. Alexander Madock, Esq.  This
gentleman, having projected a plan for regaining from the sea a portion
of the land on the western side of the wide sandy estuary called the
Traeth Mawr, purchased the estate of Tan-yr-Allt, in the immediate
vicinity, in 1798, and in 1800 succeeded in recovering a tract of nearly
two thousand acres of rich land, then forming Penmorfa Marsh, which now
produces excellent crops of wheat, barley, and clover, to which he gave
the appropriate name of Glandwr.

Encouraged by the success of his first attempt, Mr. Madock was induced to
undertake the more arduous enterprise of reclaiming the whole of the
Traeth Mawr; and for this purpose he obtained in 1808 an act of
parliament, vesting in him and his heirs the whole extent of these sands,
from Pont Aberglâslyn, at their head, to the point of Gêst, at their
lower extremity.  Notwithstanding the numerous unforeseen obstacles which
threatened to frustrate the undertaking, Mr. Madock succeeded in
constructing across the mouth of the Traeth Mawr, at the eastern
extremity of Cardigan bay, an embankment of earth and stones, nearly one
mile in length, from north to south, varying from 100 to 400 feet in
breadth at the base, and diminishing gradually to the summit, which is
100 feet high from the foundation.  By means of this embankment, a line
of communication has been formed between the counties of Caernarvon and
Merioneth, and a tract of more than 2700 acres of land was recovered from
the sea, besides a vast extent of adjoining land, which was before
overflowed by the tides, but which is now, by draining, rendered
susceptible of cultivation.  This arduous enterprise was completed in
1811, at an expense of more than £100,000; and, including the lands
previously recovered, not less than 7,000 acres have been gained.

The town is situated by the side of a lofty mountain, on the western side
of Traeth Mawr, on a portion of the tract first recovered from the sea,
and is built in the form of a square quadrangular area, having in the
centre a lofty column, round the pedestal of which there is a flight of
twelve steps.  On the eastern side a commodious market-house has been
erected, above which is an assembly-room.  Mr. Madock also built, at his
own expense, a handsome church, in the late style of English
architecture, with a lofty spire, which forms an interesting object as
seen from the sea-coast.

Tan-yr-Allt, the seat of the late W. A. Madock, Esq., is a spacious
modern mansion of elegant design, situated on a rock overlooking the
town.  Morfa Lodge, and Tuhwnt-i’r-Bwlch, erected also by that gentleman,
are handsome villas in the immediate vicinity of the town.  Captain
Parry, R.N. of Llwyn-on, Denbighshire, has also a seat called Aberdunant,
between this place and Beddgelert.

With a view to promote the commercial interests of the town which he had
founded, Mr. Madock, in 1821, obtained an act of parliament for improving
the navigation of this part of the bay on which it is situated, and thus
rendered it accessible to vessels of three hundred tons burden:
commodious quays and wharfs were also constructed.

The last improvement carried into effect was the erection of Port Madoc,
about one mile from the town, where many good houses have been built.
The principal exports are slates, from the Ffestiniog quarries, and
copper ore, which is brought from the neighbouring mines.  The chief
imports are timber, coal, and lime.  A rail-road also runs to this place
from the quarries and mines in the neighbourhood.  The road from Tremadoc
to Beddgelert commands to great advantage the scenery of the
Merionethshire side of the Traeth, and affords a delightful ride to Pont
Aberglaslyn and its vicinity.



WELSHPOOL,
(_Montgomeryshire_.)

Llanfair              8
London              171
Montgomery            8
Newtown              14
Oswestry             16
Shrewsbury           18

This town is called Welsh, to distinguish it from a town of the same name
in Dorsetshire, and Pool, from its proximity to a piece of water called
Llyn-du Pool, now within the inclosure of Powys park.  The town, which
Leland describes as being in the reign of Henry the Eighth, “the best
market in Powys,” still retains that character, in addition to which it
may justly be regarded as the modern capital of the county, and, with the
parish, contains 4626 inhabitants.  The town has a cheerful and
prepossessing appearance.  The flannel manufacture is carried on here,
but upon a less scale than at Llanidloes or Newtown.  A considerable
trade is carried on in malt, and there are likewise several large
tanneries.  Welshpool is made contributory with Llanidloes, Llanfyllyn,
Machynlleth, Montgomery, and Newtown, in returning a member to
parliament.  The assizes for the county are held here.  The town-hall is
a commodious building of brick, in the centre of the principal street.

The church, with the exception of the chancel and the tower, was rebuilt
in 1774.  It is in the early style of English architecture, with a lofty
square embattled tower, and its interior accommodation was enlarged by
the addition of galleries in 1824.  Amongst the communion plate, there is
a chalice of fine gold, holding one quart, and valued at £170; engraved
on it is a Latin inscription, stating it to have been presented to the
church of Pool, by Thomas Davies, Governor-general of the English
colonies on the western coast of Africa, in gratitude for the
preservation of his life during his residence in that unhealthy clime.


Powys Castle,


the seat of the Earl of Powys, is a stately but irregular pile of
building, venerable for its antiquity: it is pleasantly situated in a
well-wooded park, at the distance of a mile from the town, on the right
of the road leading to Montgomery, and occupies a commanding site on a
ridge of rocks overlooking a vast extent of richly diversified country,
the greater part of which was formerly subject to its lord.  The views
from its extensive and richly wooded park are remarkably interesting and
beautiful.


Angling Stations.

           _Distances from Welshpool_.               _Miles_.
Berriew, on the confluence of the Rhiw and Severn            5
Llandysylio, on the Vyrnwy                                   8
Llandrinio                                                   9
Llanvyllin, the Abel, Cain, and Vyrnwy                      12

WREXHAM,
(_Denbighshire_.)

Chester              12
Llangollen          11½
Oswestry              6
Ruthin               16

Wrexham is a large and well-built town, whose population, including the
parish, was returned in 1841 at 12,981 inhabitants.  From its extent and
importance, it has sometimes been denominated the metropolis of North
Wales.  The town is pleasantly situated at the junction of the
Shrewsbury.  Welshpool, Oswestry, and Chester roads, and in the centre of
the mining and manufacturing districts of the eastern part of
Denbighshire.  Races are annually held early in October, on a course a
little north-west of the town, on the right of the road to Mold.  Wrexham
is one of the principal stations on the Shrewsbury and Chester Railway.

No particular branch of trade or manufacture is carried on in the town;
but the parish, which is about twelve miles in length, abounds with
mineral wealth, and extensive works of various kinds are carried on in
different parts of it.  The principal inns are the Wynnstay Arms and the
Lion.  Markets are held on Thursday and Saturday, the former being the
chief market day.  There are several fairs held annually for cattle; but
the principal one is that which commences on the 23d of March, and
continues for fourteen days.  For the accommodation of the various
dealers attending it, five extensive areas are fitted up with shops and
booths.  A new and handsome market-hall has also been lately built, and
cheese fairs established.  Wrexham is contributory with Denbigh, Holt,
and Ruthin, in the return of a parliamentary representative.

The church, dedicated to St. Giles, is a spacious and noble Gothic
structure, deservedly regarded as one of the finest ecclesiastical
edifices in the Principality.  It was erected in the year 1472, the tower
not being finished till 1506, as appears by a date on the building.  The
exterior is elaborately embellished with sculpture; and the tower, which
is very lofty and highly enriched, consists of several successive stages,
panelled throughout, and decorated with numerous statues of saints in
canopied niches: from its elevation, and the light open-work turrets by
which it is crowned at the angles, it forms a conspicuous and interesting
object in the surrounding landscape.  It has a remarkably fine carved
roof: and a noble altar-piece, designed by Mr. Jones of Chester, and
worked in stone by Mr. Blayney of that city; the east window being filled
with beautifully stained glass by Mr. Evans, of Shrewsbury.

In the chancel is an altar-tomb, on which is a recumbent effigy of Dr.
Bellot, successively Bishop of Bangor and Chester, who died in 1596, and
was there interred.  Nearly opposite to this tomb is an interesting
monument, by Roubilliac, to the memory of Mrs. Mary Myddelton, of Chirk
Castle, representing a female rising from the tomb in all the freshness
of youth and beauty, at the sound of the last trumpet which is to summon
the dead to judgment.  At the corner of the aisle is also a monument by
Roubilliac, to the Rev. Thomas Myddelton and Arabella his wife; and there
are monuments to Wm. Lloyd, Esq. and his son, the Fitzhughs, the
Pulestons, the Longuevilles, Sir Foster and Lady Cunliffe, and other
families in the neighbourhood..

About a mile from Wrexham, on the right of the road leading to Chester,
is Acton Park, the residence of Sir R. H. Cunliffe, Bart., a spacious
mansion, delightfully situated in extensive grounds, richly diversified
with picturesque and romantic scenery, and commanding pleasing views of
the town and adjacent country.  Acton was the birth-place of the
notorious Judge Jeffreys, who obtained so bad an eminence in the reign of
James the Second.




INDEX.

                                     PAGE.
Aber                                     1
Aberdaron                                5
Aberdovey                                6
Aberffraw                                7
Abergele                                 8
Aberystwyth                             13
Acton Park                             206
Amlwch                                  22
Bala                                    24
Bangor (Caernarvonshire)                28
Bangor Is-y-coed                        52
Bardsey Island                           6
Barmouth                                53
Baron Hill                              58
Basingwerk Abbey                       133
Beaumaris                               55
Beaumaris Bay                           60
Beddgelert                              63
Bettws-y-Coed                           69
Buckley Mountain                       122
Cader Idris                             70
Caergwrle                               73
Caernarvon                              73
Caerwys                                 80
Capel Curig                             82
Castell Dinas Brân                     151
Cerig-y-Druidion                        88
Cerniogau Mawr                          89
Ceunant Mawr                           139
Chester                                 89
         (See also Introduction.)
Chirk                                   89
Clynog                                  92
Conway                                  93
Corwen                                  99
Cricaeth                               100
Devil’s Bridge                          18
Dee River                               27
Denbigh                                101
Diganwy                                 97
Dinas Mowddwy                          105
Dinorwic                               105
Diserth                                105
Dolbadarn                              138
Dolgelley                              106
Dolwyddelan Castle                      83
Downing                                134
Ewloe Castle                           122
Ffestiniog                             110
Flint                                  112
Golden Grove                           136
Gorphwysfa                             140
Gresford                               115
Gwydir                                 162
Gwytherin                              163
Gyrn                                   136
Hanmer                                 116
Harlech                                117
Havod                                   18
Hawarden                               119
Holt                                   124
Holyhead                               124
Holywell                               128
Hope                                    73
Kymmer Abbey                           108
Lake Ogwen                              84
Llanasa                                135
Llanberis                              137
Llanddulas                              11
Llandegai                              141
Llandudno                              142
Llanedwen                              143
Llanelian                              143
Llanerch-y-medd                        144
Llanervul                              144
Llanfair (Anglesea)                    146
Llanfair (Montgomerysh.)               147
Llanfyllyn                             148
Llangefni                              148
Llangollen                             149
Llangynog                              155
Llanhaiarn                             155
Llanidan                               156
Llanidloes                             157
Llanrhaiadr                            159
Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant                160
Llanrwst                               160
Llanvaes Abbey                          60
Llyn Idwal                              85
Machynlleth                            164
Maen-twrog                             166
Maes Garmon                            170
Mallwyd                                168
Menai Bridge                            33
Menai Railway Bridge                    38
Moel Fammau                            171
Moel Siabod                             83
Mold                                   168
Mona Inn                               172
Montgomery                             172
Mostyn Hall                            135
Nannau Park                            109
Nant Ffrancon                           84
Nevyn                                  173
Newborough                             174
Newmarket                              174
Newtown                                176
Northop                                177
Offa’s Dyke                            170
Ogwen Bank                              44
Oswestry                               177
Overton                                178
Penmaen Mawr                           178
Penmaen Priory                          60
Penmorfa                               179
Penmynydd                              180
Penrhyn Castle                          40
Pentraeth                               59
Pentre Voelas                          180
Pillar of Eliseg                       152
Pistyll Rhaiadr                        160
Plâs Newydd                            150
Plâs Newydd (Anglesea)                 180
Plinlimmon                             158
Pont Aberglaslyn                        68
Pont Cysylltau                         152
Pont-y-Glyn                            181
Powys Castle                           205
Puffin Island                           61
Pwllheli                               182
Rhaiadr-y-Wennol                        84
Rhuddlan                               183
Rhyl                                   185
Ruabon                                 186
Ruthin                                 188
Slate Quarries, near Bangor             42
Snowdon                                193
St. Asaph                              191
St. George                              12
Talacre                                136
Tal-y-llyn                             199
Tan-y-Bwlch                            166
The Tower (Mold)                       171
Towyn                                  200
Traws-fynydd                           202
Trefriw                                163
Tremadoc                               202
Vale Crucis Abbey                      151
Vale of Clwyd                          190
Welshpool                              204
Wrexham                                205
Wynnstay                               187

MAP.


[The book contains a large map which unfortunately is too big to scan
entire.  It’s provided here as four parts.—DP.]

                          North-West Wales (top)

                     [Picture: North-West Wales, top]

                          North-East Wales (top)

                     [Picture: North-East Wales, top]

                        North-West Wales (bottom)

                   [Picture: North-West Wales, bottom]

                        North-East Wales (bottom)

                   [Picture: North-East Wales, bottom]




FOOTNOTES.


{0}  The largest stone arch before known is Vielle Briode, which crosses
the river Allien, in France, whose span is 183 feet, being 17 feet less
than the Chester bridge.  It was erected in 1454, by Grenier.

{8}  From _Aber_, rivulet—_Gele_, woody, secluded; a name very
characteristic of the place, as the rivulet running through it issues out
of deep wood ravines above the town.

{10}  The silurian rocks to the west of Abergele, have recently been
brought under the notice of the Geological Society by Mr. J. E. Bowmall.
That gentleman, in an able paper presented to the society, states that
his attention was first directed to these strata by the Rev. J. Price, of
Llysfaen.  They occur immediately south of the narrow belt of
carboniferous limestone which skirts the coast from the Great Ormeshead
to the point of Ayr, and the estuary of the Dee.  The section described
by Mr. Bowmall presents the following series of beds in descending order,
many of the fossils discovered in them being identified with those found
in the Ludlow formation of Shropshire:—1.  Carboniferous limestone.  2.
Light coloured loam enclosing rounded pebbles of greenish, slightly
micaceous sandstone with shells.  3.  Bed of the same sandstone.  4.  Red
marl of considerable thickness, with imbedded angular and waterworn
pebbles, and numerous fossils.  5.  Arenaceous conglomerate, consisting
partly of the pebbles of the underlying limestone.  6.  Thin beds of
compact reddish limestone, sometimes very arenaceous, and containing a
few fossils.  7.  Blue clay.  8.  Blue clay slate, occasionally enclosing
layers of organic remains, and forming the geological base of the
country.

{12}  There is a tradition current in this neighbourhood, that Oliver
Cromwell was concealed at Kinmel, when Carter (his general) lived there;
and there is a spur of extraordinary dimensions still hung in the above
church, which is called Oliver Cromwell’s spur.

{73}  Called by the Welsh, ESTYN.

{76}  So called from the circumstance of Eleanor (daughter of Ferdinand
the Third) the consort of Edward, who was brought, through the inclemency
of a hard winter, to bear a prince for the Welsh,—having first entered
the castle through this gate.  At this time the castle was entirely
insulated, on one side by artificial means: the moat was destroyed by
being filled up two or three centuries ago, which somewhat detracts from
our estimate of its former impregnable character.

‘Edward had annexed Wales to the kingdom of England, but the Welsh were
displeased with this usurpation, and determined to yield no obedience to
any prince but of their own nation and language.  Edward thought of an
expedient for cozening them.  He ordered Eleanor, in the depth of winter,
out of England to Caernarvon Castle, there to lie in.  Edward then
summoned all the barons and chief persons throughout Wales to meet him at
Rhuddlan, to consult about the welfare of their country.  He told the
Welsh nobility that they had often wished for a prince of their own
country, who might rule over them.  They promised to allow of such an
appointment, and to obey such a personage.  Edward then mentioned _his
own son Edward_, recently born, maintaining the terms of the engagement
to have been strictly complied with, for his son was born in Wales, could
speak no English, and his character irreproachable.  Though born in 1284,
it was not before he had reached his 16th year that Prince Edward
received the reluctant fealty of his deluded subjects.  The eldest sons
of the English monarchs have subsequently been styled Prince of Wales,
and, independently of birth, been created so by letters
patent.’—_Nicholson_.

{87}  Dunawt was the son of Nefydd Hardd, one of the fifteen tribes of
North Wales: to him Prince Owen Gwynedd had intrusted his son to be
fostered, according to the usual custom.

{102a}  The common Welsh name is Eglwys-wen, and the translation is a
vulgarism.

{102b}  Richard Myddelton was the father of Sir Hugh Myddelton, who
brought the new river to London.

{130}  Sych, i.e. _dry_, and nant, a _hollow_, a _brook_.

{140}  The term _Cromlech_, used to signify a Druidical altar, cannot be
property attached to this stone: it being quite improbable that it ever
was used to such purpose; but the continued action of the elements has
placed it as it is.

{146}  There being several parishes of this name in the Principality,
this is distinguished by the adjunction of Mathavarneithav.