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                              How to Make
                               SOCK TOYS


    _for_
  • BAZAARS
  • SHUT-INS
  • GIFTS
  • PROFIT
    _and_
  • FUN

                          OVER 50 TOYS TO MAKE

                                                                      $1

                      A _PACK-O-FUN_® PUBLICATION


All designs in this book may be used to make sock toys for gifts or for
sale by individuals or organizations. It is not necessary to secure
permission from the publisher.

However, no part of the text or any design illustrations may be
reproduced by any printing process without the permission of the
publisher, with the exception of brief quotations used for reviews in
other publications.

                             Copyright 1958
                               Pack-O-Fun
                            741 Devon Avenue
                          Park Ridge, Illinois

    [Illustration: uncaptioned]


To a Monkey....
Whereby This Tale Is Hung


This book is dedicated to a monkey, a whimsical little fellow whose body
is a sock and whose heart is hidden somewhere in cotton stuffing. During
the summer and early fall of 1955 several of our friends and readers of
Pack-O-Fun magazine wrote to us about him. We learned that instructions
on how to make him could be had from the Nelson Knitting Company of
Rockford, Illinois. We received permission to reprint the instructions
and thus our new friend, the Red Heel Sock Monkey, made his appearance
in the November 1955 issue of Pack-O-Fun.

We expected a mild response and were quite unprepared for the deluge of
mail that poured into our office and the Nelson Knitting Company. We had
no idea that so many people were interested in making a toy monkey out
of a few socks. The requests kept coming in long after our supply of
this issue was exhausted and we had to reprint the instructions as a
separate folder to keep from disappointing readers all over the country.

We began to think in terms of other sock toys but there were so many
other things to do that the idea was shelved for just a “little while.”
Like so many other “little whiles” this one stretched into weeks and
then months. Our little friend, the Red Heel Sock Monkey, sat in lonely
splendor.

Several months ago Michelle Graff joined our staff as an artist. Much to
our delight we learned that she was quite adept at creating and making
all kinds of stuffed toys. Within a short time the Red Heel Sock Monkey
was no longer lonely. He had several friends to play with after we had
turned off the lights and left the office.

One of his most constant playmates was a roguish Sock Elephant. We
decided to use this packed pachyderm in some of our ads in other
magazines and once again the response was greater than we had dared
expect. That settled it. We decided to change a “little while” into
“now” and publish this book.

We have used the Nelson Red Heel socks for most of the animals, dolls,
puppets and novelties in this book for many reasons. One very good
reason is that the red heel lends itself to the creation of lovable
toys. The brown body gives the feeling of warmth that a stuffed toy must
have and the white ribbing and toes provide material for faces, feet,
hands, etc.

Another good reason is that the Nelson Red Heel socks are quite
inexpensive, selling for about 30c a pair and even less in lots of one
dozen or more. These prices vary somewhat throughout the country. That
brings us to our third good reason. They are nationally sold and can be
found in many variety, dry goods and chain stores. They can also be
ordered through many mail order houses.

All you need are some socks, scrap materials for stuffing and clothing
plus a steady eye to thread a needle. The instructions have been written
as simply and made as complete as possible. Pick out your toys, thread
your needle and start. And, to make it even more fun, vary the features,
the trimmings and clothes to bring out your own creative abilities and
personal touches.

                                                       {Edna N. Clapper}
                                                         Edna N. Clapper




                           TABLE OF CONTENTS


  To a Monkey                                                          2
      SOCK ANIMALS
      Red Heel Monkey                                                  5
      Elephant                                                         7
      Teddy Bear and Daschund                                          8
      Polar Bear and Piggy                                             9
      Donkey and Pony                                                 10
      Kitten and Puppy                                                11
      Bunny                                                           13
      Squirrel, Chipmunk and Begging Dog                              14
      Kangaroo and Baby Puppet Kangaroo                               15
      SOCK DOLLS
      Scrappy                                                         17
      Doll Instructions                                               19
      Girl Doll and Pixie                                             20
      Soldier and Engineer                                            21
      Dutch Girl and Scotch Lass                                      22
      Mexican Boy and Chinese Boy                                     23
      Eskimo Boy and Hula Girl                                        24
      Cowboy and Indian                                               25
      Red Riding Hood and Robin Hood                                  26
      Santa Claus and Clown                                           27
      CLOTHING AND SPECIAL EFFECTS
      Jackets and Aprons                                              28
      Pants and Skirts                                                29
      Shoes and Boots                                                 30
      Hats, Caps and Hoods                                            31
      Hair and Facial Expressions                                     32
      Tips and Tricks                                                 33
      FINGER PUPPETS
      Witch                                                           35
      Katie and Jamie                                                 36
      Pirate and Indian                                               37
      Lion and Billy Goat                                             38
      ARM PUPPETS
      Crocodile and Variations                                        39
      Clown and Ringmaster                                            40
      PUPPET SKIT AND CHARACTERS
      Skit—Phineas Rides Again                                     41-42
      Susie Starfish and Phineas Fish                                 42
      Clem Clam, Sheriff Sam Sponge, Oily Oliver Octopus and Louie
          the Lobster                                                 43
      SOCK NOVELTIES
      Penguin and Duck                                                45
      Double Dolls                                                    46
      Owl Pillow and Humpty Dumpty                                    47
      Hobby Horse and Weenie Doll                                     48

                         Printed in the U.S.A.

    [Illustration: uncaptioned]




                     BASIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR MONKEY


    [Illustration: Step 1]

Turn sock inside out. Start 3″ from white heel and sew two seams ½″
apart and across end of the rib.

    [Illustration: Step 2]

Cut sock between seams to within 1½″ of white heel. This leaves opening
for stuffing.

    [Illustration: Step 3]

Turn sock right side out. Stuff with one hand and mold shape to suit
with other.

    [Illustration: Step 4]

Sew up opening from top to bottom so that legs are spread apart and not
pulled together.

    [Illustration: Step 5]

To shape head, tie loosely at neck with ribbon. For a more floppy head
tie ribbon tighter.

    [Illustration: Step 6]

For feet, bend legs into L-shape for desired foot length and sew crease
with strong white thread.




                            RED HEEL MONKEY


SOCK NO. 2

CAP: Cut off toe of the sock, leaving ½″ of brown to roll for a trim.

TAIL: Cut a 1″ strip the entire length of the front of the sock. Seam
and stuff.

MOUTH: Cut the heel from the sock, leaving a brown edge around the
white. Fasten on lower part of face, whipping around the bottom; stuff
and finish sewing around top. The mouth can be improved by a running
stitch of either black or white across the middle.

ARMS: Cut the remaining upper part of the sock into two pieces. Seam and
stuff.

EARS: Cut the ears from the remaining brown part of the sole of the
sock.

EYES: The eyes can be made either by sewing on buttons or by
embroidering them with black thread. In this same operation a nose can
be indicated by two small embroidered marks.

    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6]

There are many variations from this basic pattern. Decorations can be
either pom poms, yarn or bells. Sometimes a fez is used for a cap.
Jackets and skirts are also used for clothing the monkey.

    [Illustration: uncaptioned]




                     BASIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR PAGES 7-15


    [Illustration: Step 1]

Turn sock inside out. Cut off most of the rib, leaving about 1″ for
white feet.

    [Illustration: Step 2]

Start 3″ from heel and sew two seams, ⅛″ each side of center line and
across end of rib.

    [Illustration: Step 3]

Cut between seams and about 1″ into body to make opening for stuffing.
Turn sock right side out.

    [Illustration: Step 4]

Insert ovals of cardboard or wood to shape feet. Stuff legs and rest of
sock nice and plump.

    [Illustration: Step 5]

Sew up opening in body to bring legs together and to prevent them from
bowing out.

    [Illustration: Step 6]

To shape head, tie a ribbon loosely around neck. Do not tie tightly as
head will wobble.




                                ELEPHANT


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

FORELEGS: Measure and cut forelegs from second sock so that body stands
level—about 5″. Turn inside out, seam along one side and across foot.
Turn right side out, insert stiff ovals in feet, stuff and stitch to
body (Figure 1).

MOUTH: Cut off complete heel. Stuff lightly and sew to head. Stitch
across center to shape mouth (Figure 2).

TRUNK: Use an 8″ strip of sock, tapering from 6″ to 1″. Seam wrong side
out, turn, stuff and insert wire. (See tips on wiring, page 33.) Sew to
head above mouth. Insert pipe cleaner tusks (Figure 3).

EARS: For each ear cut two pieces from sock (Figure 4). Seam and turn
right side out. Sew on level with highest point of trunk.

EYES: Sew on round or oblong buttons set apart. Embroider eyes for small
children.

TAIL: Make a short roll of material and sew in place.

TRIM: Sew on a fringed or tasselled “blanket” of bright material. Rick
rack, little bells, ribbons or beads will give a more circusy
appearance.




                               TEDDY BEAR


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

For the body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions for the monkey
on page 5, but leave only 1″ of white at the ends of the legs and stuff
plumper.

ARMS OR FORELEGS: See instructions for the monkey on page 5, leaving
only 1″ of white and stuffing plumper.

NOSE: Cut toe from second sock. Stuff lightly and sew to the front of
the head (Figure 1). Pull the head down to the chest and stitch securely
(Figure 2).

FEATURES: Embroider a solid V-shaped nose in black yarn. Make three long
stitches with brown yarn to form upper lip and mouth. Sew on two round
brown buttons for eyes, spaced well apart (Figure 3).

EARS: Cut four ear pieces from sock. Sew two together, leaving an
opening to turn. Turn and stitch to side of head, pleating the front
half to incline ear forward. Repeat with the other ear (Figure 4).

TRIM: Tie a bow of 1″ wide bright ribbon around neck. Or make Mr. Teddy
Bear a soldier, engineer, cowboy or any other colorful character by
using the doll costumes shown in this book.




                               DACHSHUND


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5]

For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on page 7, but
stretch the body as long as you can as you stuff and make legs 2″ long
instead of 5″.

FORELEGS: See instructions for elephant on page 7, but make 2″ long.

NOSE: Cut toe from sock and sew into a point on the wrong side (Figure
1). Turn and stuff lightly. Sew to front of head with seams on the top
and bottom.

TAIL: From sock cut a strip 3″ long, 1″ wide and sew into a tube. Stitch
to body.

EARS: Cut four as shown (Figure 2). Seam, leaving an opening to turn.
Sew unstuffed ears to sides of head, pushing the ears up a little for
correct angle. Sew to hold in place.

FEATURES: Make two stitches in black yarn (Figure 3) where eyes will be.
Sew a round dark button inside each. Embroider a solid V-shape nose in
brown yarn (Figure 4) and add a red felt tongue below mouth (Figure 5).

TRIM: Fasten a narrow strip of red leatherette around neck. Glue sequins
to this collar or paint little gold dots to resemble studs. For greater
realism, an inexpensive collar may be used.




                               POLAR BEAR


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

Use white athletic socks. For body (Sock No. 1) follow basic
instructions on page 7, but make legs about 4″ long.

FORELEGS: See instructions for elephant on page 7.

NOSE: Cut toe from sock, turn inside out and sew into a point (Figure
1). Turn and stuff. Sew to the front of the head, pulling it into shape.
(Polar bears have longer snouts than other types of bears.)

TAIL: Roll a 1″ square of sock into a tiny tail and sew to body.

EARS: Cut two ears from sock, and two from pink felt, petal-shaped
(Figure 2). Sew sock and felt pieces together leaving an opening for
turning. Turn right side out and stitch to head, about 2″ apart. Pleat
the felt side (facing front of head) as you stitch.

FEATURES: Embroider a solid V-shaped nose with black yarn, using three
stitches for upper lip and mouth (Figure 3). For eyes, use small white
buttons sewn over brown discs.

TRIM: Fasten a narrow strip of felt around neck, decorate with beads and
attach a chain or cord. Or, use black leatherette to make a harness
(Figure 4).




                                 PIGGY


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6]

For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on page 7.

FORELEGS: See instructions for elephant on page 7.

NOSE: Cut toe from sock, insert a small circle of cardboard and stuff
(Figure 1). This makes the snout. Sew to front of head.

TAIL: Roll a 4″ strip of sock into a tube shape and insert a length of
wire (see page 33 for tips on wiring). Sew closed and pull one end into
a point (Figure 2). Sew the other end to body and curl the tail round
finger to get corkscrew effect.

EARS: Cut four ears from sock as shown (Figure 3). Sew two together,
turn and sew to side of head. Repeat for other ear.

FEATURES: Cut a pink felt nose (Figure 4) and stitch to front of snout.
Embroider two stitches for the mouth lines (Figure 5). Since Piggy’s
eyes are slits, exaggerate them for more expression. Embroider wide
ovals in brown yarn, adding small brown buttons in the middle. Add a few
eyelashes.

FEET: Make a stitch in the middle of each foot and pull tight to form
trotters (Figure 6).




                            DONKEY ’N’ PONY


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6]

    [Illustration: Fig. 7 · Fig. 8]


SOCK NO. 1

Follow basic instructions on page 7 for Steps 1, 2 and 3. To shape neck
and head, sew a seam tapering from about the middle of the foot to about
the middle of the toe. (See Figure 1, above.) Then, turn sock right side
out, stuff and sew as shown in Steps 4 and 5 on page 7. This will form
the neck. Do not tie, as head is made from separate piece.


SOCK NO. 2

FORELEGS: See instructions for Elephant on page 7. Make somewhat
thinner.

HEAD: Cut toe from sock (Figure 2). Turn inside out and seam. Turn right
side out and stuff. Sew to neck (Figure 3). The head can be placed at
various angles (Figure 4). Shape nose, making it a little longer for the
donkey.

TAIL: For the donkey braid a fairly thin tail from yarn or other
material with a tuft-like tip. For the pony make the tail much fuller.

EARS: For the donkey, cut two long ears from sock (Figure 5) and two
from brown felt. Sew sock and felt pieces together, leaving an opening
for turning. Turn right side out and insert shaped pieces of wire
(Figure 6). (See page 33 for tips on wiring.) Sew ears to head, pleating
in front to curl the ears a little. For pony, cut shorter ear pieces and
omit wire.

FEATURES: For nostrils, embroider two tear-shaped patches in brown yarn.
For eyes, use two leaf-shaped pieces of black felt sewn to each side of
the head. Over each piece, sew a flat button slightly smaller than the
felt. To shape the mouth, make a long stitch with brown yarn across the
lower front of the face and pinch sock around the mouth stitching to
form lips (Figure 7).

MANES: A variety of materials can be used for manes. Remember that the
donkey’s mane is much thinner and stringier than a pony’s mane. For the
donkey, strands of black yarn can be used or a piece of black felt can
be cut in a saw-tooth shape with long teeth.

TRIM: Bridles can be made from colorful leatherette. Sew pretty buttons
over pieces that are stitched together to hide the joints (Figure 8). A
short piece of chain will serve as a bit. For the donkey, make a
colorful “blanket” with tasseled edges. Little packs, made from the toes
of old colored socks can be sewn to the blanket to heighten the effect.
For the pony, make a shorter “saddle blanket” and add a saddle made from
an oval piece of leatherette.




                                 KITTEN


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

Use white athletic socks. For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic
instructions on page 7.

FORELEGS: See instructions for elephant on page 7.

NOSE: Cut complete toe from sock. Stuff lightly and sew to front of
head, or sew to side to make kitty look to the right or left (Figure 1).

EARS: Cut two petal-shaped ears from sock and matching ears from pink
felt. Sew one of each together, leaving an opening for turning. Turn and
stitch to sides of head (Figure 2).

FEATURES: For eyes, cut two oblong pieces of white felt and sew to face.
Sew little green buttons, highlighted with specks of white, to felt. Use
tempera or white india ink for specks. Embroider nose in pink yarn,
adding three little stitches to form mouth (Figure 3). A scrap of red
felt sewn to the lower stitch looks like a tongue (Figure 4). For
whiskers, insert broom straws or brush bristles through face near mouth.

TRIM: Use a big colorful bow with a little bell under the chin. For an
extra playful look, sew a ball of yarn to front paws.




                                 PUPPY


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on page 7.

FORELEGS: See instructions for elephant on page 7.

NOSE: Cut toe from sock. Turn inside out and stitch across toe to shape
a square nose (Figure 1). Turn and stuff lightly. Sew to the front of
head with the seam running side to side (Figure 2).

TAIL: Cut as shown (Figure 3), seam, stuff and sew to body.

EARS: Cut as shown (Figure 4), seam and turn. Sew the 2″ side to the
head, pleating in front a little to incline the ears forward. Push the
ears up a bit and hold in position with a few small stitches.

FEATURES: Cut two semi-circular pieces of black felt. With curved side
up, sew to face just above the nose seam. If desired, the felt may be
cut into points to look like eyelashes. Add button or embroidered eyes
and an embroidered nose.

TRIM: A gay felt collar or bright ribbon will do much to achieve a
lively look.

    [Illustration: uncaptioned]




                    BASIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR PAGES 13-15


START WITH INSTRUCTIONS ON PAGE 5, STEPS 2 THROUGH 6.


                                 Step 7

To shape head, pull white toe down for face and stitch to body. Tie
loosely at neck with ribbon.

    [Illustration: Step 7]


                                 Step 8

Push leg against body, hold in place with one hand and stitch to body.
Repeat for other leg.

    [Illustration: Step 8]


                                 Step 9

Bend legs into upside down V with white part about 1½″ longer. Stitch to
hold position.

    [Illustration: Step 9]


                                Step 10

Bend white part of leg outward to form foot. Stitch to hold and repeat
for other foot.

    [Illustration: Step 10]




                                 BUNNY


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on page 7 and above.

FORELEGS: Cut about 4″ long, turn inside out, seam along one side and
across the foot (Figure 1). Stuff and sew to body about ½″ apart. To
keep arms from sagging, insert wires while stuffing. (See page 33 for
tips on wiring.)

FEATURES: For the nose, embroider a solid “V” in pink yarn. Three
stitches with black yarn makes the mouth (Figure 2). Sew on bright
buttons, spaced well apart, for eyes. Add a few curved stitches in black
for curly eyelashes. Insert broom straws or brush bristles for whiskers.

EARS: Cut two petal-shaped ears, 6″ long, from sock and two from pink
felt (Figure 3). Sew sock and felt pieces together on the wrong side,
leaving an opening for turning. Double two 12″ lengths of wire into
petal shapes and insert in each ear, fastening at base of ear. Sew to
sides of head with pink side forward. Pleat the felt to incline the ears
forward.

TAIL: Mold a fairly large ball of cotton or use a white yarn pom pom.

TRIM: Use the prettiest bow you have and dot it with sequins and tiny
spring flowers.




                         SQUIRREL ’N’ CHIPMUNK


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on pages 7 and 13.

FRONT LEGS: See Bunny’s front legs on page 13.

FEATURES: To make nose, pinch part of face into a little ball and wind
yarn around it. For pouchy cheeks, use nylon thread or very strong white
thread, and baste a circle on each side of the nose and ending just
under the nose (Figure 1). Pluck stuffing into puffs in the middle of
these circles for cheeks. Tighten stitching to hold cheeks in place.
Embroider mouth with red yarn and add small brown buttons for eyes. Use
broom straws or brush bristles for whiskers, pushing them through sides
of face.

EARS: Cut two pointed ears from sock and two from felt (Figure 2). Sew
sock and felt pieces together, leaving an opening for turning. Turn and
sew to top sides of head. Pleat felt.

TAIL: Sew a thin strip of sock about 6″ long. Insert a wire and bend to
shape (Figure 3). Sew to body. Use brown pom poms or jersey loopers to
build up a bushy tail. Make squirrel’s tail somewhat bushier than the
chipmunk’s.

STRIPES: Sew strips of black fur or felt down back of chipmunk only,
spacing them about ½″ apart.




                              BEGGING DOG


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6]

For body (Sock No. 1) follow basic instructions on pages 7 and 13 with
the exception of step 7. To pull face upwards stitch across back instead
of front (Figure 1, above).

FRONT LEGS: See Bunny’s front legs on page 11. To achieve the down paws
effect insert wires into legs and bend into L-shape (Figure 2). (See
page 33 for tips on wiring.)

FACE: Cut toe from sock, stuff and sew to head (Figure 3). Add a red pom
pom for a comical nose. For a doleful mouth, embroider a modified upside
down V-shape and sew a lolling, long red felt tongue underneath it
(Figure 4).

EARS: Cut two pieces from sock and two from pink felt (Figure 5). Sew
together, leaving opening for turning. Turn and sew to side of head with
ears hanging down.

EYES: Cut circles of brown felt and sew to face. Sew white buttons on
circles. For a droopy look, cut crescent-shape pieces of felt and sew
over so that only part of eye buttons show (Figure 6).

TAIL: Make a stubby tail from a roll of sock and sew to body.

TRIM: Add a woe-be-gone hat (see page 31 for hat designs) or a floppy
ribbon bow.




                                KANGAROO


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6]

For body (Sock No. 1) follow the basic instructions on pages 7 and 13
but sew opening in opposite direction so that legs spread apart and
there is room for the pouch. Stretch legs by pulling before stitching
into sitting position.

FOREARMS: Follow directions for front legs on page 13, making them
somewhat thinner and shorter.

FEATURES: Cut toe from sock, turn inside out and sew to a point (Figure
1). Turn, stuff lightly and sew to head. Mold the front of nose into a
long, blunt shape, pushing in the point at the end. Embroider eye-lines
with brown curved lashes (Figure 2). If possible, use crescent-shaped
buttons or pieces of brown felt for eyes to avoid the “glazed” look of
round buttons. Embroider mouth with brown yarn (Figure 3).

EARS: Cut four sock ears and sew into pairs (Figure 4). Turn right side
out, stitch along sides of head and pleat front.

TAIL: Cut from sock and seam, leaving wide end open for stuffing (Figure
5). Turn right side out, stuff and sew to body.

POUCH: Cut a large triangle of knit to fit across the tummy with one
point sewn between the legs (Figure 6). Allow the pouch to sag a little
to leave room for baby kangaroo.




                             BABY KANGAROO


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

Make the baby kangaroo from a small child’s sock in a beige or other
light color. Insert a cone shaped piece of cardboard in the toe of the
sock instead of the cardboard roll used in other finger puppets. Also
for the baby kangaroo, there is no need to take a tuck in the heel, but
rather let the heel become the top of the head (Figure 1).

FEATURES: Turn the sock inside out and sew the toe to a point. Turn
right side, add padding in the very tip of the toe; then insert the cone
in the toe and pad around it up to the heel. Embroider a nose and
eyelines in brown, mouth in red or pink. Add tiny brown button eyes with
a dot of white for highlight. Add pink felt ears similar to Mama
Kangaroo’s (Figure 2).

ARMS: Cut a slit on each side of the sock just below the neck. Be sure
slits are large enough to fit the fingers for manipulating the puppet.
Make glove-like fingers from the second sock or the fingers from an old
glove and sew them to the slits. Be sure not to sew slits closed. The
best way to avoid this is to turn the puppet inside out, fit the
“fingers” inside the slit and whip-switch the edges together (Figure 3).

TRIM: Add a big baby blue bow under the chin—not too tight. When not
acting uppity like a puppet, baby kangaroo rests comfortably in Mama
Kangaroo’s pouch (Figure 4).

    [Illustration: uncaptioned]




                                SCRAPPY


             ... Our Fun-Loving, Mischievous Little Mascot!

For those who want a very special doll, we have designed one with all
the features of a bouncing, dimpled doll right out of a toy show window.
It’s well worth the extra time and care to make Scrappy.

BASIC DOLL: Use white athletic socks and follow the basic instructions
on page 19. For a more natural look, quick-dip the socks in a weak,
lukewarm solution of pink dye and let dry before making the doll.

DIMPLES OR INDENTATIONS: These are quite simple to make. The trick lies
in pulling a few threads back for the indentation. Use a needle long
enough to go through the doll and thread it with yarn. Push the needle
through from the back to the point of the indentation, catch a few of
the sock threads, push the needle back through, pull both ends of the
yarn and tie them (Figure 1). To make eye sockets, cheeks and lip lines
see Tips and Tricks, page 33.

SHAPING BODY: Knot one end of white yarn and make three long stitches at
the lower back—two that divide the legs from the body and one that
divides the hips equally (Figure 2). Pull yarn tightly to make
indentations. Make three dimples in the small of the back and one in the
tummy.

ARMS AND LEGS: Make a dimple in each elbow and knee. Pull arms around
into a natural curve, taking a small tuck along the inside of the arm if
necessary (Figure 3).

FEATURES: Mold the nose by pulling the stuffing into shape and embroider
or paint tiny nostrils. For the eyes, use round buttons with shanks or
salvage a pair of eyes from an old toy. Add a spot of white paint to
each button eye. Embroider eyelashes and eyebrows. Cut a mouth from red
felt and whip stitch to face. Then sew a white line across the middle to
divide the lips. The ears are semicircles cut from a piece of sock. Roll
the edges, hem and sew to the head even with the eyes (Figure 4).

HAIR: Make colorful pom poms, using any of the hair styles on page 32.
For a short hairdo, outline the hair line on the head before you arrange
the pom poms.

CLOTHING: Scrappy can be dressed as a boy or a girl in a wide variety of
costumes. Here’s how we dressed “him” as a little boy.

SWEATER: Use a colorful ribbed sock. Cut it off at the heel and use the
cuff portion. For armholes, make a slit on each side of the sock about
1½″ down from the top. Slip sweater on and turn down the top for a
turtle neck (Figure 5).

PANTS: Cut from black felt, pattern design B-2, page 29. Seam sides,
turn and fit doll, tucking at the waist as necessary. Add a leatherette
or plaid shoe-string belt.

JACKET: Cut from bright blue felt, pattern design A-6, page 28. Sew side
seams and turn right side out. Sew two rows of white thread around all
the edges for trim. Add a little square pocket and tuck in a colorful
“hankie.” Sew small white buttons on the front.

TAM: Use bright blue felt, with the band in yellow felt, and follow
pattern design C-17 on page 31. For a snug fit, fit the yellow band
around the head, sew the ends together and use it as a guide in cutting
the circles of blue felt.

SHOES: Cut from red felt, pattern design F-27, page 30. Add shiny
buckles.

    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

    [Illustration: Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6]

    [Illustration: uncaptioned]




                    BASIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR PAGES 17 AND 20-27


    [Illustration: Step 1]

Turn Sock No. 1 inside out. Stitch across the heel to form a straight
sock.

    [Illustration: Step 2]

Cut 1½″ off rib of sock so that legs are in proportion to length of
body.

    [Illustration: Step 3]

Start 3″ from heel and sew two seams, ⅛″ each side of center line and
across end of rib.

    [Illustration: Step 4]

Cut sock between seams and 1″ farther to make opening for the stuffing.

    [Illustration: Step 5]

Turn sock right side out. Stuff foot plumply and tie loosely with string
to form head.

    [Illustration: Step 6]

Pull head forward so that white toe becomes face and stitch to chest
with strong thread.

    [Illustration: Step 7]

Stuff legs and body. Sew up opening and mold figure for desired shape.

    [Illustration: Step 8]

Bend end of legs and sew a tuck to hold feet. Tie string around ankles.

    [Illustration: Step 9]

From Sock No. 2 cut arms about 5″ long. Turn inside out, seam, turn
right side and stuff.

    [Illustration: Step 10]

Sew arms to sides of body and tie of each wrist with string about 1″
from end.

    [Illustration: Step 11]

Make three long stitches for finger separations and shorter ones for the
thumbs.

    [Illustration: Step 12]

For the ears, cut two 1½″ circles. Fold in half and overcast along
edges. Sew to head.




                               GIRL DOLL


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2]

Follow basic instructions for doll above.

FEATURES: Stitch black yarn eyelines, add long brown lashes and blue
button eyes. Make three short stitches to form upturned nose. Cut a
smiling mouth from red felt. Add a long stitch of white yarn to separate
lips (Figure 1).

HAIR: Choose from styles on page 32 and add a big bow ribbon to top of
head.

DRESS: Make a petticoat from pattern design A-13, page 29. Fit the
petticoat by gathering at the waist and fastening at the back (Figure
2). Cut a skirt from the same pattern design. Use pattern design B-7,
page 28, for the blouse. Gather the skirt and sew to blouse to make
dress. Edge dress with rick rack or ribbon and fit to doll with opening
in the back. Sew little buttons down the back to close dress. Tie a wide
ribbon around waist, ending with a big bow.

SHOES: Use matching felt and cut from pattern design F-27, page 30.

PANTIES: Cut from pattern design C-3, page 29 in white cotton and trim
to match dress.

FINISHING TOUCHES: Use a curtain ring for a bracelet. A string of beads
around the neck will hide the seam.




                                 PIXIE


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.

FEATURES: Embroider slanted eyes, wide open, and turn the eyebrows up a
little at the outer edge. With red yarn, make a smiling mouth. The nose
is an arc of brown yarn (Figure 1).

HAIR: See method H-29, page 32.

EARS: Cut two petal-shaped ears from pink felt. Sew to head, folding a
little as you sew (Figure 2).

JACKET: In green felt or semi-stiff material, cut from pattern design
A-6, page 28. Seam and fit to doll, opening at the front. Cut a “V” in
the back at the waist to form tails and sew a small button at the top of
the “V”. Trim sleeves into points. Tie a tiny bow at the neck front to
pull the jacket closed (Figure 3).

PANTS: Use green or yellow felt, cut from pattern B-2, page 29. Trim the
leg edges to match the jacket. Fit to body and hide raw edges with a
strip of ribbon or felt.

SHOES: Use brown felt and cut from pattern design C-24, page 30. Sew a
little jingle bell to toes and trim edges (Figure 4).

HAT: In green or yellow felt cut eight petal shaped pieces. Stitch
together by overlapping petals into a large daisy. Overlap last two
petals to fit head (Figure 5). Stitch a bell or pom pom on top.




                                SOLDIER


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

Follow basic instructions on page 19.

FEATURES: Embroider eyes in brown yarn, nose in beige and mouth in red
(Figure 1).

HAIR: Choose from methods on page 32.

PANTS: Cut from black or dark blue material, pattern design A-1,
page 29. Sew a narrow stripe down outside of legs. Tuck waistline to
fit.

COAT: Use bright red felt, or semi-stiff material, following pattern
design A-6, page 28. Do not slit at middle front, rather slit to one
side (Figure 2). To hide stitches, sew on a strip of felt, and add four
small brass buttons down each side. Use white felt strips, ½″ by 11″ for
cross piping. Cover front and back seams with a black leatherette belt.
Make two epaulettes for shoulders from 1½″ long fringed ovals of yellow
felt (Figure 3).

SHOES: Cut from black felt, pattern design A-22, page 30.

HAT: Cut from black felt, pattern design B-16, page 31. Loop gold or
white silk cord across front and add a narrow chin strap of black felt
(Figure 4).

FINISHING TOUCHES: Sew a little buckle to the front of each shoe. Cut a
strip of ½″ wide white felt to fit snugly around the neck. Tuck coat
into this band and fasten in front with a brass button. Use the same
cord material as on hat and loop around coat buttons (Figure 5).




                                ENGINEER


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.

FEATURES: Sew on two small brown buttons for eyes. Embroider lashes and
upturned nose with brown yarn (Figure 1). A quarter-size ring of red
felt makes a mouth.

HAIR: See page 32 for short hair styles.

OVERALLS: Cut from blue and white striped material, pattern design A-1,
page 29. Seam and turn. Sew a 2″ square of the same material to each
side for pockets and a 2″ square, hemmed on three sides, for bib. For
straps, use two strips of material and add tiny buckles in front (Figure
2).

SHIRT: Cut from soft blue material, pattern B-7, page 28, and fit to
body, tucking in at waist.

HAT: Cut a ½″ wide strip of black felt to fit around the head. From the
same overall material, cut a 7″ circle and gather to fit band (Figure
3). A visor is made from a 3″ circle of black felt folded in half and
sewn around edges. Stitch to front of hat.

SHOES: Cut from black felt, pattern design A-22, page 30.

FINISHING TOUCHES: Tie a small red tri-cornered handkerchief around neck
and tuck a bright scrap of material in one pocket.




                               DUTCH GIRL


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

See basic instruction for doll on page 19.

FEATURES: Stitch a black eyeline with yarn, add long black lashes and
blue button eyes. Make three stitches to form a turned up nose. Cut a
mouth from red felt and sew to face. Separate lips with a long white
stitch (Figure 1).

HAIR: See method N-34, page 32 for braided hair.

DRESS: Cut blouse from soft blue material, pattern design B-7, page 28.
Fit to doll with opening at back. Cut skirt from the same material,
using pattern design B-14, page 29. Gather around waist with small
stitches and fit over blouse. Trim both pieces with rick rack or ribbon.
The apron is a 6″ square of white organdy gathered at one edge and sewn
to an 18″ strip of white ribbon. Tie the apron over the waist to hide
the seam (Figure 2).

PANTIES: Cut from white cotton material, pattern design C-3, page 29 and
trim with narrow lace.

SHOES: Use felt to cut from pattern design B-23, page 30. Embroider a
tiny flower on each toe.

HAT: Use a 3″ by 11″ piece of crisp white fabric and a smaller piece for
the back (Figure 3). Gather the larger piece to fit the back and hem
edges. Turn the lower corners of the hat back from the face. A tiny
safety pin will hold the hat in place.




                              SCOTCH LASS


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

Follow instructions for doll on page 19.

FEATURES: Cut one dime-size circle of white felt and cut it into two.
Sew each half on for an eye, curved side up. Sew tiny flat buttons to
one side. With black yarn, make six long lashes over each eye (Figure
1).

HAIR: Choose a style on page 32.

BLOUSE: Cut from soft white material, pattern design B-7, page 28, and
dress doll with opening in back.

SKIRT: Use permanently pleated plaid material and cut a skirt that
reaches to the knees (Figure 2). Sew to blouse with opening at back. Use
a strip of brown felt or oilcloth to hide the seam. Over this, stitch a
circle of fur about 4″ across. The Scotch call this a sporran (Figure
3). Drape a length of ribbon, about 1″ wide and 9″ long, over one
shoulder, tucking the ends under the belt.

HAT: Cut from green or red felt (to match dress) from pattern design
C-17, page 31. Add a tiny pom pom for a gay touch.

SHOES: Cut from black felt or oilcloth from pattern design A-22,
page 30.

PANTIES: If desired, cut from black felt or jersey pattern C-3, page 29.




                              MEXICAN BOY


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.

FEATURES: Embroider eyes in black yarn, nose in brown. Cut a smiling
mouth from red felt, snipping out some from the middle (Figure 1).

HAIR: See page 32 for choice of styles.

JACKET: Cut from bright colored felt, pattern design A-6, page 28. Make
a scarf in striped cloth or from a brightly striped sock to drape across
one shoulder (Figure 2).

PANTS: Cut from brown or black material following pattern design D-4,
page 29. Trim sides of legs with rick rack or ribbon. Fit to body,
tucking at waist with the jacket inside the pants. To hide the seam,
fasten a cummerbund of red felt or oilcloth.

SHOES: Cut in black felt from pattern design A-22, page 30. Decorate
with sequins or beads.

HAT: Cut from matching felt, pattern A-15, page 31. Shape with fingers
into a high Mexican hat (Figure 3).




                              CHINESE BOY


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.

FEATURES: Embroider slanted eyes in black yarn, nose in brown and
smiling mouth in red (Figure 1).

HAIR: Follow method M-33, page 32, stitching yarn at the back of the
head only to braid into a pigtail.

JACKET: Use colorful satin or shiny cotton and cut from pattern design
A-6, page 28. Make sleeves wider at the wrist end. Opening will be in
the front.

PANTS: In contrasting satin material, cut from pattern design E-5, page
29. Leave a 1″ opening at the ankle of each leg (Figure 2).

SHOES: Cut from red felt from pattern design A-22, page 30. Turn tops of
shoes down a bit and trim with sequins or beads.

HAT: Cut a circle of felt 8″ across. Make a slit from edge to the
middle. Overlap slit edges to form a coolie hat (Figure 3). Then measure
around the head and make a ½″ wide band of felt. Whip stitch this to the
inside of the coolie hat.

FINISHING TOUCHES: The more beads, sequins and embroidery on the
clothes, the prettier the finished doll will look.




                               ESKIMO BOY


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.

FEATURES: Embroider almond-shaped eyes in black yarn, nose in beige and
smiling mouth in red (Figure 1).

HAIR: See method P-28, page 32.

JACKET: Use terry cloth, fur or similar material and cut from pattern
design A-6, page 29.

PANTS: Use the same material and cut from pattern design A-1, page 29.
Fit jacket over pants and add leatherette belt if desired (Figure 2).

BOOTS: Cut from same material following pattern design A-22, page 30.
Use bright color thread to make a design on boots (Figure 3).

HOOD: Cut the toe from second sock and slit from raw edge to tip of toe
(Figure 4). Whip stitch raw edges. Sew a band of pom poms (see method
P-28, page 32) or a strip of fur along edge that fits around face. A
second type of parka can be made from design E-19, page 31. Trim with
pom poms or fur.




                               HULA GIRL


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.

FEATURES: For eyes, sew two white oval pieces of felt to face. Embroider
a line across each one, stitching a small brown button just below. Cut a
mouth-shaped piece of red felt and sew into place. A small up-turned
nose can be embroidered in brown yarn (Figure 1).

HAIR: Make black yarn pom poms (see P-28, page 32) and sew closely to
head.

DRESS: For a halter top, cut a 3″ wide strip of gay soft material,
gather a little along bottom and tie around body above waist. Make a
tuck at the middle front (Figure 2). For the hulu skirt use raffia, yarn
or strips of dyed nylon stocking. Wind yarn around a piece of cardboard
6″ wide about 100 times. Slip a 12″ length of ribbon under loops,
leaving ends free (Figure 3). Cut opposite edge of loops, remove
carefully and tie around waist (Figure 4). Over this fit a 1″ wide
ribbon.

PANTIES: Cut from the same material as top piece, pattern design C-3,
page 29.

FINISHING TOUCHES: Push small curtain rings over waists and ankles.
Stitch to ears for earrings. Fasten a string of beads around neck to
hide seam. Tuck an artificial flower into the hair. Twist several
colored pipe cleaners together to make a lei.




                                 COWBOY


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.

FEATURES: Use brown yarn for eyebrows, a line of black for eyelids, nose
and mouth. Sew on two flat buttons for eyes (Figure 1).

HAIR: See page 32 for short hair styles.

DRESS: Cut a shirt from checkered material, pattern design A-6, page 28.
Seam and fit to body with opening at front. Sew tiny white buttons down
front to hide seam. Cut pants from pattern design E-5, page 29, in brown
or beige material. Seam and turn. Pleat pants at waist to fit over
shirt. Cut leatherette chaparejos from pattern design A-1, page 29,
cutting away top as indicated. Use a 1″ width of brown leatherette for
belt and finish with a little buckle. Tie a bright three-cornered
kerchief around neck (Figure 2).

HAT: Cut from beige felt, pattern A-15, page 31. Shape with fingers
(Figure 3).

BOOTS: Cut in black or brown felt from pattern design E-25, page 30.

FINISHING TOUCHES: Sew loops of string or thin rope to one hand.
Holsters can be cut from leatherette (Figure 4).




                                 INDIAN


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.

FEATURES: Sew round brown button eyes over dime-size circles of white
felt. Embroider eyebrows in black yarn, nose in brown and mouth in red
yarn (Figure 1).

HAIR: See pattern design K-31, page 32. Braid in two parts, one each
side of the face.

JACKET: Use brown or beige material and cut from pattern design A-6,
page 28. Sew sides, leaving a 1″ slit at waist (Figure 2). Stitch
colored fringe, rick rack or beads along the front and bottom of the
jacket. Paint, glue or sew colorful Indian sign on back.

PANTS: Use the same material and follow pattern design A-1, page 29.
Trim outside of each leg with rick rack or fringe.

HEADDRESS: Fasten a ½″ wide strip of oilcloth or felt around head,
tucking a bright feather in at the back (Figure 3). Beads or sequins can
be glued to the band for a more colorful effect.

MOCCASINS: Cut from colored felt following pattern design A-22, page 30.
Turn down the edges and glue on beads or sequins.

FINISHING TOUCHES: Tie a string of the brightest beads you can find
around the neck to hide the seam.




                            RED RIDING HOOD


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.

FEATURES: Embroider eyebrows, lashes and nose in brown yarn. Use small
blue beads or buttons for eyes, red felt for mouth (Figure 1).

HAIR: See J-30, page 32 for pony tail hair style.

DRESS: Cut blouse from any bright material, except red, pattern design
C-8, page 28. Cut skirt from same material, design B-14, page 29. Gather
around waist and sew to blouse, with opening at the back (Figure 2). Tie
a ribbon around the waist to hide the seam.

SHOES: Cut from black felt, pattern design F-27, page 30. Sew a tiny
flower to the toe of each shoe.

CLOAK: Use a piece of red material 8″ long by 14″ wide. Hem all sides.
Gather along one 14″ side to fit around neck (Figure 3). Cut hood from
pattern design P-36. Gather along neck edge and sew to cloak. Tie a
strip of white ribbon around neck to hide the seam.

FINISHING TOUCHES: Wire a bunch of artificial flowers to one hand
(Figure 4) or a tiny basket over one arm. Make panties and a petticoat
from pattern designs if desired.




                               ROBIN HOOD


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

  GATHER AROUND PANTS LEGS FOR DOUBLET

Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.

FEATURES: Use brown yarn for eyebrows and nose; red yarn for a smiling
mouth. The flat brown buttons with a dot of white on each make the eyes
(Figure 1).

HAIR: Use method H-29, page 32.

TUNIC: Use green felt or a semi-stiff material and cut from pattern
design A-6, page 28. Cut a 7″ circle of brown felt and remove a portion
from the middle 2½″ across. Slit from edge to middle to fit over the
head. Scallop around outer edge. This collar fits over the jacket with
opening in front. Punch three holes on each side and lace with narrow
ribbon (Figure 2).

PANTS: Use soft green material and cut from pattern design B-2, page 29.
If the material stretches easily, make the pants tighter than the
design, since Robin Hood wears tights. Fit to body, tucking at waist.
Fit tunic over pants, add belt and buckle.

SHOES: Make from green felt or similar material following pattern design
A-22, page 30. Cut a “V” shaped slit at each side of shoes or roll the
top down slightly (Figure 3).

CAP: Cut from green felt following pattern design D-18, page 31. After
the cap is sewn on the head, turn the edge up about ½″ at the back.
Attach a long red feather for color.




                              SANTA CLAUS


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.

FEATURES: Sew a small round red bead for nose. Embroider merry blue eyes
in yarn, and add heavy white yarn eyebrows. Cut and sew a
crescent-shaped piece of red felt for a smiling mouth (Figure 1).

SUIT: Use red material, cut and sew coat from pattern design A-6, page
28, with opening in front. Cut pants from pattern design A-1, page 29.
Sew and tuck at waist to fit body.

BOOTS: Make from black felt or oilcloth, pattern D-25, page 30. Sew a
tiny jingle bell to each boot.

CAP: From the same material as suit, cut a piece 8″ × 12″. Sew the
shorter sides together to form a tube. Gather one end to close.

FUR TRIM: Strips of white fur, terry cloth or rolled white cotton make
effective edgings. Sew around cap, neck, front and bottom edges of coat
(Figure 2).

FINISHING TOUCHES: Tie a bow of ribbon to a Christmas bell and wire to
one hand (Figure 3). Sew a jingle bell to gathered end of cap. Around
the waist, fasten a 1″ wide black belt with a buckle in front. Form a
beard (from cap to chest) and moustache of white cotton or fur and sew
to face (Figure 4).




                               CLOWN DOLL


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

Follow basic instructions for doll on page 19.

FEATURES: For the nose, sew on a large red button. Use two small white
buttons with spots of black painted on, for eyes. Embroider highly
arched eyebrows in black yarn. Cut a crescent-shaped large mouth from
red felt. A single white yarn stitch will divide the lips (Figure 1).

HAIR: Make orange or yellow pom poms (see P-28, page 32) and stitch to
head, sideburn fashion (Figure 2).

SUIT: Use bright colored material for jacket and follow pattern design
A-6, page 28. Seam and turn. Gather wrists to fit arms. Cut pants from
pattern design D-4, page 29. Seam; turn and gather waist slightly. Sew
to jacket to make one garment. Gather legs to fit ankles.

HAT: Make a cone from white felt and sew to head at a rakish angle. Turn
edges up ½″. Stitch two red pom poms to front of hat (Figure 3).

SHOES: Cut from black felt, pattern design A-22, page 30. Make foot much
longer and sew pom poms to tips of toes.

FINISHING TOUCHES: Make a ruffle of 2″ wide stiff net to fit around the
neck (Figure 4). Do the same for wrists and ankles. Sew pom poms down
the front. Add belt over waist seam.




                           JACKETS ’N’ APRONS


    [Illustration: A6 LONG SLEEVE (CUT TWO)]

  CUT ON DOTTED LINES
  CUT ALONG HERE, ONE PIECE ONLY

    [Illustration: D9 SLEEVELESS (CUT TWO)]

  CUT ALONG DOTTED LINES
  CUT ALONG HERE, ONE PIECE ONLY

    [Illustration: C8 TUNIC STYLE (CUT TWO)]

  CUT ALONG DOTTED LINE
  CUT ALONG HERE, ONE PIECE ONLY
  SEW ALONG HERE

    [Illustration: B7 SHORT SLEEVE (CUT TWO)]

  CUT ALONG DOTTED LINES
  CUT ALONG HERE ONE PIECE ONLY

    [Illustration: A10 APRON]

    [Illustration: B11 APRON]

    [Illustration: C12 APRON]




                            PANTS ’N’ SKIRTS


    [Illustration: A1 LONG PANTS AND CHAPS (CUT TWO)]

  SEW ON DOTTED LINES

    [Illustration: B2 SHORT PANTS (CUT TWO)]

    [Illustration: C3 PANTIES (CUT TWO)]

  CUT ON DOTTED LINES

    [Illustration: D4 WIDE PANTS (CUT TWO)]

  SEW ALONG THIS LINE
  CUT HERE
  SEW ALONG THIS LINE

    [Illustration: E5 NARROW PANTS (CUT TWO)]

  CUT ON DOTTED LINES

    [Illustration: A13 LONG SKIRT (CUT ONE)]

  GATHER ALONG THIS EDGE
  CUT ON DOTTED LINE

    [Illustration: B14 SHORT SKIRT (CUT ONE)]

  GATHER ALONG THIS EDGE
  CUT ON DOTTED LINE




                            SHOES ’N’ BOOTS


    [Illustration: A22 LACED SHOE]

  ① CUT TOP
  ② CUT SOLE
  ③ SEW TOGETHER
  ④ LACE

    [Illustration: B23 DUTCH SHOE]

  ① CUT TOP
  ② CUT SOLE
  ③ SEW TOGETHER
  ④ TURN DOWN

    [Illustration: C24 POINTED SHOE]

  ① CUT TOP
  ② CUT SOLE
  ③ SEW TOGETHER
  ④ TURN DOWN

    [Illustration: D25-E25 BOOTS]

  ① CUT TOP
  ② CUT SOLE
  ③ SEW TOGETHER
  ④ LACE, IF DESIRED

    [Illustration: E26 LOW BOOT]

  ① CUT TOP
  ② CUT SOLE
  ③ SEW TOGETHER

    [Illustration: F27 SLIPPER]

  ① CUT TOP
  ② CUT SOLE
  ③ SEW TOGETHER




                            HATS—CAPS—HOODS


    [Illustration: A15 BRIM HAT]

  ① BRIM
  ② TOP
  ③ SEW TOGETHER

    [Illustration: B16 TOP HAT]

  ① BRIM
  ② TOP
  ③ SIDES
  ④ SEW

    [Illustration: C17 TAM]

  ① CUT TOP
  ② CUT BOTTOM
  ③ BAND
  ④ SEW BAND

    [Illustration: D18 ROBIN HOOD]

  ① CUT HAT
  ② SEW

    [Illustration: E19 DUTCH BONNET]

  ① CUT HAT
  ② CUT BACK
  ③ SEW

    [Illustration: P36-F20 HOODS]

  ① CUT
  ② SEAM
  ③ SEW HEAD BAND

    [Illustration: G21 COOLIE]

  ① CUT HAT, SLIT TO CENTER
  ② JOIN EDGES
  ③ SEW BAND

    [Illustration: CONE HAT]

  ① CUT TRIANGLE
  ② MAKE CONE
  ③ TURN EDGE UP

    [Illustration: STOCKING CAP]

  ① CUT OFF TOE
  ② HEM RAW EDGE




                      HAIR ’N’ FACIAL EXPRESSIONS


    [Illustration: H29 SHORT LOOP]

  ① DRAW HAIRLINE
  ② MAKE LOOPS
  ③ COVER

    [Illustration: P28 POM POMS]

  ① WIND YARN
  ② CUT
  ③ SEW TO HEAD

    [Illustration: J30 PONY TAIL]

  ① MAKE LOOPS
  ② COVER HEAD
  ③ PULL BACK

    [Illustration: K31 BANGS]

  ① SEW DOWN CENTER (bangs)
  ② SEW CENTER (sides)
  ③ SIDES OVER BANGS

    [Illustration: L32 CREW CUT]

  ① MAKE LONG LOOPS
  ② CUT LOOPS
  ③ COVER HEAD

    [Illustration: M33 STRAIGHT]

  ① USE SINGLE STRAND
  ② FORM PARTING
  ③ COVER HEAD

    [Illustration: N34 BRAIDS]

  ① SEW DOWN CENTER
  ② ARRANGE HAIR
  ③ BRAID

    [Illustration: FACIAL EXPRESSIONS]

  MONKEY
  SLEEPING
  BOY
  GIRL
  ORIENTAL
  CLOWN
  SAD
  BABY




                            TIPS ’N’ TRICKS


SOCK SIZES: The animals and dolls in this book were made from size 13
socks; the puppets were made from size 9 socks. The clothing pattern
designs will fit toys made from these sizes.

STUFFING: We used kapok for ease in packing and shaping. Nylon fluff,
dacron filling, shredded foam rubber or lint from an automatic dryer
will work as well. Old nylon hose and other cloth scraps tend to become
lumpy. Use a pencil or dowel for packing stuffing in narrow places.
Clean stuffed toys by dry sudsing.

WIRING: Stove pipe wire or similar types work fine. Coat hanger wire is
too thick and hard to bend. Always bend wire ends up and in to prevent
them from working through. Wraps wires with adhesive tape or string.
Dabs of cement on the wire will hold string in place (Figure 1). Insert
wires straight and bend the completed tail, ears and so forth.

    [Illustration: Figure 1]

  BEND ENDS
  WRAP ENDS
  ANIMAL LEGS
  HUMAN LEGS

SHAPING: Toys can be molded by pushing or pulling the stuffing with the
fingers. An occasional stitch will help hold the shape. To mold chubby
cheeks, make circles of small stitches, pluck the stuffing up in the
circles, pull the ends of the thread together and tie off (Figure 2).

    [Illustration: Figure 2]

  MAKING DIMPLES
  GATHER CHEEKS
  PULL STITCHES TO SHAPE CHEEKS

Indentations and dimples are made by pulling a few sock threads back
into the toy. This is done by pushing a threaded needle through from the
back, catching a few sock threads and pushing the needle back again.
Pulling on the needle thread pulls the sock threads in. Repeat for the
desired indentations and tie off. Figure 3 shows how this is done for
eye sockets. For toys with side eyes (bunnies, donkeys, etc.) work from
eye to eye. For more natural lip lines, catch several sock threads in
shallow arcs over and under the lips and in a straight line between the
lips (Figure 4). See Scrappy on page 17 for ideas on where to put
dimples. Use a darning needle to push through the head or body. Lightly
pencilled guide lines are helpful.

    [Illustration: Figure 3]

  SETTING IN DOLL’S EYES (BACK TO FRONT)
  SETTING IN BUNNY’S EYES (SIDE TO SIDE)

    [Illustration: Figure 4]

  MAKE STITCHES AROUND MOUTH AND ACROSS LIPS
  WORKING FROM BACK TO FRONT

FEATURES: To give the face a flesh colored look, dip the toe of the sock
in a weak solution of pink dye before the sock is cut and stuffed. Be
sure the solution is lukewarm. For a more professional look, sew flesh
colored stockinet over the face after the features have been molded and
stitched into shape (Figure 5).

    [Illustration: Figure 5]

  MOLD FEATURES BY PINCHING AND STITCHING
  THEN SEW STOCKINET TIGHTLY OVER FACE WITHOUT FLATTENING

EYES: If you plan to make several toys, especially animals, invest in
manufactured eyes. Or, use eyes from discarded toys. Shoe buttons also
make very good eyes since they have shanks. Add a highlight speck of
white paint to each button eye to avoid that blank look. Never use eyes
that are too small unless you want an older or mean look.

HAIR: Inexpensive wigs, or ones from discarded dolls, can be substituted
for pom poms and scrap fur. Pencil guide lines on the head before sewing
on pom poms.

FACIAL EXPRESSIONS: Much can be done to accentuate features and to give
toys individuality by embroidering or using felt eyebrows, eyelashes,
wrinkles, crinkles and so forth. Felt pieces should be glued on or sewn
with tiny stitches in matching thread. We used the satin stitch for
embroidered features (Figure 6).

    [Illustration: Figure 6]

  BLACK CENTER
  WHITE HIGHLIGHT
  BLUE
  SATIN STITCH MOUTH
  SATIN STITCH EYE

CLOTHING: Use freshly laundered and pressed materials—it’s well worth
the extra effort. Avoid patterned materials that are out of proportion
to the toys. Crayons (pressed well into the fabric) or textile paints
can be used to make small pattern designs. Tempera paints tend to wash
out. Choose materials that do not easily unravel.

    [Illustration: uncaptioned]




                             FINGER PUPPETS


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

MAKING AND STUFFING HEAD: Insert a short piece of paper towel roll in
the toe of the sock, then push stuffing up around it until the head is
plump and round (Figure 1). Tie a ribbon around the neck and stitch in
place to keep it from slipping (Figure 2). Features can be added and the
face pushed into various shapes. The finger puppets on pages 35-38 are
just a few of the endless variations that can be made.

ARMS: Make a slit on each side of the sock below the neck—just large
enough for your thumb and little finger. If desired, little glove-like
fingers can be sewn over the openings, otherwise just whip stitch the
edge (Figure 3). Add appropriate clothes.

TO OPERATE: Push your index finger and second finger into the cardboard
roll; and thumb and little finger into the slits on the side (Figure 4).
Head can be bobbed up and down or sideways by moving the fingers inside
the cardboard roll while the thumb and little finger can move together
and apart to grasp articles, wave, and so on.




                                 WITCH


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

Follow basic instructions above for finger puppets.

NOSE: Use the red heel of another sock or a piece of felt. Cut in a
triangular shape, sew the long sides together, turn and stuff lightly.
Bend for a hooked nose and sew to face (Figure 1).

MOUTH: Sew on an upside down crescent-shaped piece of felt.

EYES: Sew on two black buttons, close together over nose. Embroider
forbidding black eyebrows.

HAIR: Add scraggly black hair by sewing on loops of black yarn in
various lengths and cutting the ends open (Figure 2).

CLOAK: Use a piece of dark material about 12″ × 15″. Fold in half
lengthwise. Sew across one end starting at the corner of the folded edge
and tapering down to a point 2″ from the top of the open edge (Figure
3). The highest point becomes the peak of the hood. Turn right side out.
Gather the material about 4″ down from the front of the hood to fit
around the neck of the puppet. Stitch ribbon over gathers and tie ends
at front. Turn front edges of hood back about 1″ and hem rough edges
(Figure 4).




                            KATIE ’N’ JAMIE


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

    [Illustration: Fig. 5 · Fig. 6 · Fig. 7 · Fig. 8]

Follow basic instructions for finger puppets on page 35.

LEGS: Cut the white ribbings from two socks to make the legs. Cut each
ribbing lengthwise and sew down the long sides and across one end. Turn
and stuff lightly. Sew the legs to the front of the puppet sock opposite
the heel so that the puppet appears to “sit” when propped over the edge
of a stage. Tie ribbon around the ankles (Figure 1). For more realistic
legs with feet, follow methods used for dolls on pages 17 and 19.

HAIR: See page 32 for hair styles. Make both from the same color yarn.

FEATURES: Embroider eyelashes and eyebrows in black yarn. Mouths are red
felt. Sew an upturned nose with beige yarn (Figure 2).

BLOUSE: Cut Katie’s blouse from two pieces of white material (Figure 3).
Sew together at shoulders, leaving a space for neck and then down sides
leaving arm holes. Pull up over bottom of puppet. Add a wide lace collar
to hide shoulder seams and short lace edging around arm holes.

SKIRT: Cut a 10″ circle of felt and remove a 3″ circle from the center.
Slit up the back and overlap to fit around the puppet. Fasten with a
snap. Add shoulder straps of the same material to keep the skirt from
slipping. Trim the skirt and straps with embroidery or sequins (Figure
4).

SHIRT: Cut Jamie’s shirt from the same white material and stitch to the
body in the same way. Cut a collar-shaped piece of material and stitch
around the neck. Whip stitch arm holes. Add buttons down front of shirt
(Figure 5).

PANTS: Cut the pants as shown from the same felt material as the
skirt—pointed piece for the front (Figure 6). Sew the point down onto
the sock between the legs. Back piece will actually look like a skirt
and is merely there to make short pants appear complete. Make suspenders
from the same material and attach to the pants with tiny buttons.

HATS: For Katie, make a bonnet as shown and tie to the head with ribbon
bow under chin (Figure 7). Jamie wears a beanie made from the toe of a
sock. Roll back the brim and add a pom pom to the top (Figure 8).

SHOES: If you use more elaborate legs with feet, follow the shoe pattern
designs on page 30 making about ½ size. Remember to sew the shoes to the
feet rather than try to fit shoes over feet.




                                 PIRATE


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

  MAKE PATCH

Follow basic instructions for finger puppets on page 35.

NOSE AND EYES: Pinch a small portion of the sock together in the middle
of the face and tie off—dab with red paint. Sew on one button eye and
make a black patch for the other. Make evil looking black eyebrows from
yarn (Figure 1).

MOUTH: From red felt, cut a wide, sly, grinning mouth. Remove a small
portion from the center to give an open grin. Add a gruesome tooth or
two and a villainous black mustache (Figure 2).

BEARD: Add yarn or fringed felt around the chin and sides of the face.
At the top of the beard, add a few longer strands of wild looking hair
(Figure 3).

DRESS: Make a bandana from bright spotted material and tie it around the
top of the head, knotting the ends at one side. Hang brass curtain rings
on for earrings. For the shirt, take a black colored sock and cut it off
at the heel. For arm holes, make a slit on each about 1″ down from the
top of the cuff. Slip over the puppet and turn down top for a turtle
neck effect. Add a belt from leatherette and paint the skull and cross
bones in the center (Figure 4).




                                 INDIAN


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

Follow basic instructions for finger puppets on page 35.

FEATURES: Use two round brown buttons for eyes—paint on a spot of white
for highlight. Embroider brows in black and mouth in red. Add small
button nose (Figure 1).

HAIR: Wind black yarn around a card 3″ wide, about 20 times. Gather
along one edge with black yarn; snip other edge open and remove
carefully (Figure 2). Sew to the top of the head with the seam down the
center like a part and hair hanging down each side of the head. Fit a
band of tape (embroidered or plain with beadwork) around the head and
add a feather at the back (Figure 3).

DRESS: Cut a shirt from a piece of material 8″ × 6″, seam and fit to
puppet with opening at the back. Gather along the waist and sew to a
strip of felt for the belt (Figure 4).

OPTIONAL: Add novel beads around neck and wrists (if you have added the
glove-like fingers mentioned in the basic instructions). You might try a
Mohawk hairdo, braids, fancy headdress, medicine man’s mask or other
variations.




                                  LION


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

  SEW EARS WIDE APART

Follow basic instructions for finger puppets on page 35.

FEATURES: Cut toe from the second sock, turn inside out and sew to a
nose shape (Figure 1). Stuff lightly and stitch to the front of the
head. Embroider end of the nose in black yarn and add an upside down
Y-shaped mouth in red yarn. Sew on black button eyes over brown felt
circles (Figure 2).

EARS: Cut two petal shaped pieces from brown felt or scrap fur and two
pieces from pink felt. Sew the pink and brown pieces together, leaving
an opening for turning. Turn and stitch to head. Pleat felt.

MANE: Sew bushy yarn pom poms (see page 32) or strips of scrap fur over
the top of the head and down around the neck (Figure 3).

PAWS: Make two small paws from the second sock or the fingers of an old
glove and sew over the slits at the sides of the puppet. Add small yarn
pom poms or fur scraps near the ends (Figure 4).

FINISHING TOUCHES: If he is to be THE LION in “The Wizard of Oz” hang a
little heart locket around the neck.




                               BILLY GOAT


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

Follow the basic instruction for the finger puppets on page 35.

FEATURES: Cut toe from second sock, turn inside out and sew to a
narrower end (Figure 1). Turn, stuff and stitch to the face. Embroider
two nostrils at the tip and sew on a red mouth. Cut two circles of brown
felt and sew to each side of the head. Add bright buttons or beads to
complete the eyes. For a sleepy look, use flat button eyes and sew
crescent-shaped pieces of felt over so that only the bottom half of the
eyes shows. Embroider eyelashes, or cut them from felt, if you want to
give Mr. Billy Goat a coy expression.

EARS AND HORNS: Cut ears as shown and sew to the top of the head (Figure
2). Make horns from white felt, sewing them into a tube. Insert pipe
cleaners into the tubes so that they can be bent to the desired shape.
Sew firmly to the top of the head, pushing pipe cleaners down into the
head a bit. Curve horns backwards (Figure 3).

WHISKERS: Add a pom pom (wound only 10 times) under the chin and trim to
a point.

TRIM: Add a high, formal white collar with a black bow tie. Make a pair
of spectacles from thin wire with the nose piece setting well towards
the tip (Figure 4).




                              ARM PUPPETS


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

The puppets shown on the following pages are basically those in which
the mouth is made to move by the action of the hand. In making these
puppets keep in mind that ample room must be left over and under the
mouth piece for the fingers to operate freely to obtain the maximum
facial expressions. Do not use staples, pins or other sharp objects to
hold pieces together since they are apt to cut the hand or fingers. Make
the puppets large enough so that they can be easily slipped on and off
by the child or adult using them.

STEP NO. 1: Tuck the heel of the sock to make a straight tubular piece.

STEP NO. 2: Cut the foot of the sock as shown by the dotted lines.

STEP NO. 3: Turn the sock inside out and cut a piece of red material the
shape of the mouth opening. Also cut a matching piece from cardboard.
Sew the red material to the sock with an overhand stitch or use your
sewing machine.

STEP NO. 4: Turn the sock right side out. Fold the cardboard piece in
half and insert in the sock.

STEP NO. 5: Add features such as button eyes, nose, hair and so forth.

ANIMATION: Most talking puppets are operated by placing the thumb under
the bottom cardboard piece and the fingers over the upper piece. Open
and close the hand to make the puppet talk. Twisting the hand will give
a variety of facial expressions and moving the arm about will add to the
illusion.




                               VARIATIONS


    [Illustration: uncaptioned]

The basic instructions above are for the crocodile which appeared in the
September 1954 issue of _Pack-O-Fun_ magazine. With modifications,
literally hundreds of puppet variations can be made. By simply adding a
saw-toothed strip of felt on top, Mr. Crocodile can be turned into a
scaly, scary dragon. Or by shortening the mouth and building up the
head, as we did for the clown and ringmaster on page 40, you can create
a multitude of lovable characters from Hansel and Gretel to modern
animated cartoon animals.

Whiskers and mustaches will give villainous or rube-like looks; eyes and
ears can be exaggerated for comic expressions; cheeks can be padded for
a chubby look and noses can be anything from a tiny button to a long
duck’s beak. Hairdos can be long and feminine, short and boyish or
fringed for a lion’s mane. Hats, dresses and other costume pieces will
enhance the puppet character and hide the arm.

The puppets on pages 42-43 were made for the underwater western skit
“Phineas Rides Again” written by our Katie Conrad. Four of the
characters are talking puppets. Louie the Lobster is a finger puppet and
will give you an idea how both types of puppets can be combined for
maximum visual effect. Susie Starfish has no moving parts, but being the
beautiful heroine really doesn’t need any! It is possible for one person
to handle all six roles.




                              CLOWN PUPPET


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

For Sock No. 1 follow Steps 1, 2, 3, 4 on page 39, but make the mouth
shorter.

HEAD: Cut 4″ from the toe of the second sock. Stuff lightly, but firmly,
so that it doesn’t get too heavy (Figure 1). Sew to the top of the first
sock, turning under the rough edges. Be careful not to sew the space
above the cardboard closed in Sock No. 1. Shape nice and round (Figure
2).

FEATURES: For eyes use large round or crescent-shaped pieces of felt
with bright buttons sewn on. Embroider exaggerated eyebrows. Use a big
bead or button for the nose. Colorful pom poms (see page 32) are sewn on
for sideburns. Cut a piece of bright red felt for an upper lip and sew
it to the top sock (Figure 3).

COSTUME: Add a cone-shaped hat (see Clown Doll on page 27) perched at a
rakish angle. To hide the arm, stitch a colorful ruffle around the
neck—being careful not to sew it so tight that you will have difficulty
getting your arm in the puppet (Figure 4).

ANIMATION: Slip the thumb into the bottom part of the mouth and the
fingers into the top.




                               RINGMASTER


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

Make the head the same way as the clown above.

FEATURES: The ringmaster’s features are more nearly natural than those
of the clown. Embroider thick eyebrows in black, brown or red yarn and
sew buttons under them for eyes. For the nose cut a triangular piece
from a matching sock, sew the long edges together and turn. Stuff
lightly and sew to face. Bend the nose to give it a slight hook (Figure
1). The curling mustache, hair and neat sideburns can be embroidered in
yarn matching or contrasting with the eyebrows (Figure 2). Ears can be
cut from felt. Sew them on so that they stick out a bit.

COSTUME: Use shiny black oilcloth to make the top hat described on page
31. Set at a jaunty angle and whip stitch to head. Stitch a white wing
collar around the neck with just the suggestion of a tie (Figure 3). For
greater realism add the upper part of a frock coat with wide lapels. Put
a white carnation on the right lapel (Figure 4).

OTHER CIRCUS PUPPETS: By following the basic head patterns you can make
other circus folk and animals. For features use the many suggestions for
the Sock Animals and Sock Dolls. For example, for a talking elephant
stitch a trunk right above the mouth, add tusks and big ears, a tasseled
headpiece and so forth.




                          Phineas Rides Again


              Reprinted from _Pack-O-Fun Skit Book No. 1_

    [Illustration: uncaptioned]

The puppets are made from old socks with burlap, felt, cardboard,
sponge, plastic lacing and buttons used for features, tentacles, and
claws.

The operators sit on chairs on either side of a theatre made from a
cardboard carton, with openings cut in each side. Stage directions for
right and left are for a person ON STAGE, facing the audience. The
direction from which each character enters must be considered in making
the puppets.

(_The ANNOUNCER appears in front of the curtain._)

Announcer: Good evening, ladies and gentlemen! For years the
action-filled western has reigned supreme as a favorite with adventure
story lovers. Recently, however, its popularity has been challenged by a
rush of interest in underwater drama. Tonight, we combine these trends
and proudly present a production that will please everyone:
A-Cowboy-Story-Under-The-Sea. Its title is “Phineas Rides Again” or “The
Foam Ranger.”

The following exciting characters will appear:

  Phineas Fish—_The Hero_
  Clem Clam—_His Sidekick_
  Susie Starfish—_The Heroine_
  Oily Oliver Octopus—_The Villain_
  Louie the Lobster—_His Accomplice_
  Sam Sponge—_The Sheriff_

Shall we join the players way down yonder in the wild western ocean?

(_ANNOUNCER leaves, and the curtain opens far enough to reveal the
puppet theatre. PHINEAS has entered from RIGHT and is on stage, alone,
singing. Others backstage may join him to add to the volume._)

Phineas: (_To the tune of “Home on the Range”_)

  Oh, give me a home where the mackerel roam
    And the cod and the anchovies play.
  Where often is seen, the cheerful sardine
    And the sunfish is shining all day.

(_CLEM enters from LEFT during song._)

Phineas: Hi ya Clem. Some tun-a, eh?

Clem: Frankly, Finny, it smelt.

Phineas: Ah, quit carping.

Clem: Did you hear about the commotion in town?

Phineas: What’s up?

Clem: Somebody robbed the Oyster bank early this morning.

Phineas: Great Grunion! Did they get much?

Clem: Stole all the pearls and a million dollars in gold fish.

Phineas: Phew! That’s a lot of fish! What’s the Sheriff doing?

Clem: Oh, he’s floundering around.

Phineas: Clem, go tell him we’ll help solve this case.

Clem: O.K. (_CLEM leaves, PHINEAS begins singing “I’m An Old Cow Hand,”
but is violently bumped as the SHERIFF enters LEFT._)

Phineas: Hey, Sam, did you do that on porpoise?

Sheriff: Sorry, Finny. I haven’t been so excited since my dogfish had
guppies.

Phineas: Clem told me about the robbery. Have you found the varmints
yet?

Sheriff: Nope. They left a red herring on the trail.

Phineas: Hm. Must have been some daring soles.

Sheriff: Oh, I don’t know. Only an ’eel would do a thing like that.

Phineas: I’ll go get my sea horse from the coral and join the posse.

Sheriff: Fine. See you later. (_SHERIFF leaves. Before PHINEAS can
leave, a girl is heard, crying, and SUSIE enters, LEFT._)

Susie: Oh, I’m so frightened! Please help me, Phineas.

Phineas: Stop your blubberin’, little gal. What’s wrong?

Susie: (_weeping_) I can’t find the Sheriff! I think I know who robbed
the bank, and they’re after me!

Phineas: Who, gal, who?

Susie: Oily Oliver Octopus and Louie the Lobster!

Phineas: Are you sure? Why I remember them when they were just a couple
of perch-snatchers.

Susie: Oh, yes. I saw them near the bank this morning, but I didn’t
realize what they were going to do.

Phineas: I’ll go tell the Sheriff. He’ll throw out the fishnet.

Susie: (_wailing_) Oh, don’t leave me! Stur-geon-na be trouble.

Phineas: Don’t you fret, Susie, gal. Hide behind that clump of seagrass
till I come back. (_PHINEAS leaves, RIGHT. SUSIE also leaves, LEFT,
apparently to hide. OLIVER enters RIGHT and LOUIE, LEFT._)

Oliver: Well, we made our get-away all right.

Louie: Yep, but I’m scared, boss. We’ve got to catch that little
starfish before she talks.

Oliver: Well, where is she? She came this way.

Louie: ’Course I kinda hate to hurt her. Gosh, she’s purtier than Marlin
Monroe!

Oliver: Forget it! Don’t be a sucker for a pretty fish.

Louie: Reckon you’re right. I’ll go look that-a-way. (_leaves, LEFT._)

Oliver: (_Looks about, sees SUSIE hiding and drags her on stage from
left._) Aho! So there you are. Come on out.

Susie: I was right! It WAS you and Louie.

Oliver: Yes, but you’ll never tell.

Susie: Unhand me, you cod! Somebody else already knows!

Oliver: Who?

Susie: I won’t tell!

Oliver: Talk, you little sprat!

Susie: I won’t! I won’t!

Oliver: So you’re gonna clam up? Wait’ll I get Louie! (_OLIVER leaves,
and SUSIE is alone._)

Susie: (_wailing_) Land o’Ocean, what shall I do? (_PHINEAS enters,
RIGHT._)

Phineas: I’ll save you, Susie gal! Go hide again, quick! (_SUSIE
disappears quickly and LOUIE enters from the LEFT._)

Louie: Hey, Boss, where is she? (_sees PHINEAS._) Out o’ my way, Buster.

Phineas: I’ll fix you, you lobster mobster! (_PHINEAS rushes at LOUIE,
butts him from underneath with his head and mouth and LOUIE gives a
bounce in the air and collapses over the front of the stage, hanging
limply. PHINEAS leaves._)

Phineas: (_offstage_) And you! I’ll smush you, you octopus, you!
(_OLIVER flies in after some loud offstage noises, bounces up in the air
and collapses next to LOUIE over the front of the stage._) Clem!
Sheriff! Drag these sidewinders out of here! (_OLIVER and LOUIE go off
limply, as if being dragged. PHINEAS enters, RIGHT._)

Susie: (_offstage_) Can I come out now?

Phineas: Come on. It’s all over. They’ve vamoosed to the calaboose.

Susie: (_enters LEFT_) My hero! You’re a dol-Phin-eas!

Phineas: Shucks, ’Twarn’t nuthin’.

Susie: But however did you do it? They’re so strong and powerful!

Phineas: For years I used to be just another poor fish. But then I
started eating a better breakfast every day, and now I win all my
fights.

Susie: My goodness! But tell me, what do you eat for breakfast?

Phineas: Why SEAWEEDIES, Gal, SEAWEEDIES!!

Susie: My CHAMPION! (_They kiss._)

_Curtain_




                              SKIT PUPPETS


SUSIE STARFISH

    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2]

  SEW TO HEART

Use a pastel colored sock to hide the arm. From white or light pink felt
cut a star-shaped face about 6″ from tip to tip. Round the points for a
soft look. For hair, cut a heart-shaped piece of black, yellow or red
felt. Sew to star face with matching thread. Add eyebrows, long inverted
coy eyelashes, two stitches to suggest a nose and a red rosebud mouth
(Figure 1). Sew the star-face to the sole of the sock (Figure 2).


PHINEAS FISH

    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2]

  SLIT HERE
  SEW CIRCLE HERE

Use a white sock for our hero. Cut a 1½″ slit in the toe and turn the
sock inside out. Cut a 3½″ circle of pink or red felt, fold and
overstitch around mouth slit (Figure 1). Turn sock right side out and
add a thin lip line. For the fan-shaped tail, cut strip of burlap or
felt and sew to sock cuff, pleating slightly. Be careful not to sew cuff
together. Hide the rough cut edges with a band of felt. (Figure 2). Add
fins and bright colored gills. Button eyes and a few accents of paint
will provide realism. Add a cowboy hat (see page 31) and tie or stitch
to head (Figure 3). To animate Phineas, slip two fingers above the mouth
and two fingers under the mouth. Open and close scissors-fashion.

Remember to sew a tuck in the heels to make straight tubular socks.
Puppets are made for either hand and stage directions can be reversed.
Dye white socks if colored socks are not available.


CLEM CLAM

    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

  SLIT HERE
  CUT ACROSS HERE

  STITCH TO SOCK

Make Clem from a light colored sock. The head is shortened by cutting
off the toe of the sock (Figure 1). For the mouth, cut a clam-shaped
piece of pink felt and matching piece from stiff cardboard (Figure 2).
Follow the basic instructions on page 39, stretching the sock to fit the
shape of the mouth pieces. Sew on big, bright blue button eyes, add a
short, colored felt beard under the chin and paint black, clam-like
streaks on top of the head (Figure 3). Make a cowboy hat (see page 31)
and stitch to head. Operate like the basic puppet.


SHERIFF SAM SPONGE

    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

  SEW SPONGE TO SOCK

Use light green socks and make the same way as the clown on page 40.
Substitute two thin pieces of yellow cellulose sponge in place of felt
mouth. Use separate pieces for the top and bottom because dry cellulose
sponge is not very pliable (Figure 1). Embroider a mustache, long hair
and sideburns in dark green yarn. Sew on big yellow button eyes. Add a
cowboy hat (see page 31 for hats) with a silver star and stitch a bright
bandana around the neck (Figure 2). Operate like the clown puppet.


OILY OLIVER OCTOPUS

    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

A black sock is a must for this black hearted villain. Make the same way
as the clown on page 40, only with a much smaller mouth. Cut two
half-crescents from white felt, sew on head and add small button eyes
(Figure 1). For tentacles, cut eight triangular pieces of material,
about 6″ long and 2″ at the base. Sew the long sides together, stuff
lightly and stitch to body with seams on the bottom (Figure 2). Make a
stovepipe hat, following hat principles on page 31, and stitch to head
at an angle (Figure 3). Operate like the clown puppet.


LOUIE THE LOBSTER

    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3]

  CUT HERE
  SEW ON DOTTED LINE
  CUT HERE
  FIT CLAWS OVER “ARMS”

A devilish red sock suits this villain. Turn it inside out. Cut off the
rib and the toe. Sew two 4″ seams, about 1″ apart (Figure 1). Cut out
the material between the seams. Turn sock right side out. Cut off a
piece of the toe, stuff lightly and sew between the “arms” for a head.
Attach two 1″ lengths of red pipe cleaner to the top of the head for
“eye stalks.” Add small bright buttons or beads to the tips. Use a long
plastic thong for the feelers. Push the thong through the head (Figure
2). From stiff cardboard cut out two claws and paint red. Stuff about 1″
of the “arms” and sew the claws to the stuffed ends. Add four bent red
pipe cleaners to each side of the body for legs (Figure 3). To operate,
use forefinger and little finger to move the “arms.”

    [Illustration: uncaptioned]




                                PENGUIN


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

  CUT HERE
  STUFF WELL
  FORM A CHEST WITH FINGERS
  STUFF WELL
  SEW ON WINGS
  SEW TO BODY

BODY: Use cut foot portion from white sock, or if you wish a larger
penguin, take a tuck in the heel making a long tubular piece. Stuff toe
lightly for head and heavier toward the opening which will be the base
of the penguin. Sew opening closed. Tie off at the neck with a formal
black bow-tie (Figure 1).

WINGS: From black material, felt or oilcloth, cut two pieces for each
wing as shown. Seam, turn and insert a piece of cardboard the same size
and shape. Sew on just below the neck (Figure 2).

FEET: Cut two webbed feet from black material and two from cardboard.
Sew or glue one of each together and fasten to the base of the penguin
(Figure 3).

FEATURES: Sew a tiny white button onto a small circle of black felt for
each eye. Make a cone-shaped beak from yellow felt. Draw a line along
each side to indicate the mouth and sew to the front of the head (Figure
4).

PENGUIN FAMILY: Make Mrs. Penguin slightly smaller, and Junior about
two-thirds size. Mr. Penguin will, of course, wear a top hat (page 31)
while Mrs. Penguin may have to be content with pattern design E-19. A
colorful apron might mollify her feelings though. Junior can wear a top
hat or, since he’s a bit young, a beanie.




                                  DUCK


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

  STUFF UNTIL PLUMP
  GATHER & TIGHTEN BEFORE CLOSING
  TURN ENDS DOWN
  CUT TWO WINGS
  SEW WINGS TO SIDES
  SEW TO SOCK HERE
  CUT TWO OF THESE

BODY: Use foot from light colored sock. Stuff plump and round. Sew up
opening in the bottom. Tie off about one-third the way down for the
head. Add a stiff-necked white collar with the tabs turned back around
the neck (Figure 1).

WINGS: From stiff material of the same color, cut two wings as shown.
Sew one to each side of the body with tip of the wings extending down
and out at the bottom to form the tail (Figure 2).

FEET: Cut two webbed feet from cardboard and two from stiff material.
Sew one of each together and fasten to the bottom of the duck (Figure
3).

FEATURES: Sew a round black button onto a large circle of white felt for
each eye. Make the beak from two pieces of felt and sew to the front of
the face (Figure 4).

OPTIONAL: If you want to make a sailor out of your duck, add a sailor
hat perched at an angle on the top of his head and the regular sailor’s
collar and neckerchief. To make the collar, use a rectangle of blue
material, cut a deep arc from one corner to the other, then overlap
corners at the front. Embroider or paint 3 white stripes along the three
outside edges—add neckerchief. The hat is made from the ribbed end of a
sock. Cut off the cuff, gather rough edge together tightly and turn back
the other edge about 1″. If you prefer a stiff brim, insert a piece of
cardboard around the inside of the turned back section.




                              DOUBLE DOLL


There are any number of combinations that you might like to try for your
double doll, such as Peppy and Sleepy, Suzy and Sammy or a couple of
clowns. We have chosen Happy and Dumpy.

BODY: Take a tuck in the heel of the sock so that you have a straight
tubular sock. Cut off the cuff. Stuff plumply and firmly and sew opening
closed. Tie off the middle to divide the sock into two dolls; then tie
off the head about half way down from each end (Figure 1). Do not tie
tightly or doll will be too wobbly.

    [Illustration: Fig. 1]

FEATURES: The big differences in these two dolls are the features which
are exactly the opposite. Both faces have the same type of nose made by
pulling a piece of the face into a ball or lump and then tying off with
yarn or thread. The eyebrows are embroidered in black yarn. Happy’s
eyebrows are curved in a convex manner while Dumpy’s are concave. Use
large bright buttons for eyes, centering them under the eyebrows.
Embroider a few tears running from Dumpy’s eyes. Dumpy has a turned down
mouth made of red felt while Happy’s mouth is turned up in a big grin.
Cut the two mouths identically and merely reverse the points. A few
frown lines can be embroidered with brown yarn on Dumpy’s forehead
(Figure 2).

    [Illustration: Fig. 2]

HAIR: Make the hair from pom poms, choosing a style from page 32. Happy
and Dumpy can be either boys or girls or one of each. Make Happy’s hair
from yellow or red pom poms; Dumpy’s from black or brown. Set Dumpy’s
hair lower on the head to accentuate the frowning look. If one or both
heads are boys, add ears of semicircular felt to the sides of the head.

ARMS AND LEGS: Actually these are one and the same. The legs of one doll
serve as the arms of the other and vice-versa. Make them from a second
sock. Cut out four rectangles about twice the length of the head. Sew
the long edges together and across one end. Turn and stuff lightly. Sew
to the shoulders so that they hang freely. When the doll is flipped
over, one pair should flop to the sides for arms while the other pair
hangs down for the legs (Figure 3). Tie ribbon around the wrist/ankles.

    [Illustration: Fig. 3]

DRESS: Make a wide flaring skirt from a pattern design on page 29. For
greater contrast sew two different colored pieces together so that when
the doll is flipped over a different colored skirt will appear. Add
blouses, bows, hats or any other bits that you think will make the dolls
look cuter.




                               OWL PILLOW


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

BODY: Use foot of a large, dark sock. Stuff firmly, but flatten it as
you do. Sew opening closed. With yarn, tie off the head about one-third
of the way down.

FEATURES: Sew two white felt circles fairly close together and in the
middle of each sew small yellow buttons for the eyes. Make a small
cone-shaped beak from shiny oilcloth and sew on just below the eyes so
that eyes and nose form a triangle. Accent this triangle by embroidering
a “V” just above the eyes and nose (Figure 1).

EARS: Cut four pieces as shown from the rest of the sock. Sew two
together for each ear, turn and stitch to top of head, pleating the
front half slightly (Figure 2).

WINGS: Cut two wings from matching felt and sew one on each side of owl.
Accent with lines of white for feathers (Figure 3). To finish the owl,
embroider or paint wavy lines on the body between the two wings. Also
embroider claws at the bottom, curving them as if clinging to a branch
of a tree. Finally add a big red bow at the neck (Figure 4). If you
prefer a stuffed doll, stuff it round and plump and then add felt feet
at the bottom.




                             HUMPTY DUMPTY


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

BODY: Use cut foot portion from sock. Round open edges. Stuff firmly and
sew opening closed. Push stuffing around until you have a nice egg
shape.

FEATURES: For eyes, sew two small circles of black felt over two large
half-circles of white felt. The black eye pieces can be placed in the
center, to the sides or cross-eyed to get different effects. Add
eyebrows of black felt or embroider them in black yarn. A few stitches
in brown yarn will serve for a nose. Cut the mouth from red felt
(Figure 1).

ARMS AND LEGS: Make two arms and legs from the second sock. Cut
rectangular pieces, sew along the long sides and across one end. Turn
and stuff. Sew the arms to the sides of the body and the legs to the
bottom. The longer the arms and legs are, the cuter your doll will be.
Tie yarn or ribbon around wrists and ankles.

HAIR: Make yarn pom poms (see page 32) and sew them to the top of the
head.

DRESS: From the pattern designs on page 29, make a pair of pants and
tack them on Humpty Dumpty. A colorful cap can be made from pattern
designs on page 31. If you decide to make shoes (page 30) bend the legs
for feet, stitching the tuck.




                              WEENIE DOLL


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4 · Fig. 5 · Fig. 6]

Make your Weenie Doll from a dark sock so that his features really show
up.

BODY: Use cut foot portion from sock. Stuff firmly and sew opening
closed. Tie off one-third the length for the head (Figure 1).

FEATURES: Cut two ovals of white felt and two smaller ones of black. Sew
or glue the smaller ones to the larger and sew them on the face for the
eyes. Embroider eyelashes and eyebrows in black. Make a circle of red
felt with a stitch across the center for the mouth. Embroider a few
lines in the center of the face for the nose (Figure 2).

EARS: Cut two petal-shaped ears. Roll outer edges, hem and sew to side
of head at eye level (Figure 3).

ARMS AND FEET: Cut two arms from white felt and two from cardboard. Sew
one of each together, making sure you have one for the right and one for
the left side of the body. Stitch to body (Figure 4). Cut two feet from
black felt and two from cardboard. Sew one of each together and fasten
to the bottom of the doll. Add buckles or bow to the toes (Figure 5).

CAP: Cut about 3″ from the ribbing of the sock. Gather cut edge together
tightly. Place cap on head, tying a band around the cap about 1″ down
from the gathers and adding a pom pom at the top (Figure 6).




                              HOBBY HORSE


    [Illustration: Fig. 1 · Fig. 2 · Fig. 3 · Fig. 4]

MOUTH: Cut an oval of cardboard 3″ × 4″ and insert it in the toe of the
sock. Stitch the toe of the sock to the edges of the cardboard to give
the mouth shape. Embroider brown ovals, just above the mouth for the
nostrils. Stuff toe firmly down to the heel of the sock (Figure 1).

FEATURES: Make eyes from tear-drop shaped pieces of black felt with tiny
brown buttons in the center. With paint add a highlight of white in the
center of each eye. Cut two ears from brown felt or leatherette. Fold in
half and sew to the top of the head. Add a mane made from fringe or
loops of yarn. Start at the top of the head over the eyes, go between
the ears and down the back of the horse (Figure 2).

RIDING STICK: Push a broomstick into the sock up to the heel. Pad well
all around the broomstick down to the cuff of the sock (Figure 3). Tie
off tightly. Add a halter made from leatherette or oilcloth, carrying
the reins to the back of the horse’s neck. Add festive pom poms and
jingle bells (Figure 4).




                          Transcriber’s Notes


—Silently corrected a few typos.

—Some instructions reference numbered figures which do not appear in the
  printed edition.

—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
  is public-domain in the country of publication.

—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
  _underscores_.







End of Project Gutenberg's How to Make Sock Toys, by John M. Clapper