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                               MONTEZUMA
                            NATIONAL FOREST
                            COLORADO    1939


    [Illustration:                                              F-376802
                                                       LIZARD HEAD PEAK]

                UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
                             FOREST SERVICE
                         ROCKY MOUNTAIN REGION




                     The Montezuma National Forest


THE MONTEZUMA NATIONAL FOREST was established by proclamation of
President Theodore Roosevelt on June 15, 1905. Its gross area is 837,228
acres, of which 737,440 acres are Government land.

    [Illustration:                                              F-376865
                                                          OPHIR NEEDLES]

The topography of the forest varies from the extremely rugged San Miguel
Range in the north and the rough but slightly lower La Plata Range on
the east, to the high mesas of the southwestern part. The Dolores River
flows southwest through the eastern part of the forest. Near the town of
Dolores the river makes an abrupt turn to the north, and the west
boundary of the forest follows to a greater or less degree the Dolores
River Valley. Throughout the forest innumerable streams and canyons lead
down from the San Miguel and La Plata Ranges and the Dolores Plateau.

The San Miguel Range extends westward through the north end of the
forest. Lizard Head Peak (13,156 feet), Sunshine Mountain, Lone Cone,
Wilson, and Dolores Peaks, and Mount Wilson (14,250 feet) are
outstanding topographical features.


                        MONTEZUMA—KING OF MEXICO

Montezuma was the ninth king of Mexico and a powerful general of the
Aztec tribes. When Hernando Cortez conquered Mexico in the early part of
the sixteenth century, Montezuma was the dominant war chief of the
Western Hemisphere and was held in fear by other tribes. He tried,
however, to avoid war with the Spaniards and welcomed them to the
capitol. Cortez, having thus obtained an advantage, held Montezuma and
the city captive. In the succeeding battles, Montezuma was killed by his
own people.

The name has retained historically romantic significance and occurs
frequently throughout the Southwest. It is appropriate for this forest
where most of the names and many of the customs are of Spanish origin.


                       EARLY HISTORY OF THE AREA

Spanish traders and explorers made frequent trips into southern Colorado
during the eighteenth century. Those of record were led by Capt. Juan
Marie de Rivera, in 1765, and Padre Francisco Escalante, in 1776. Each
party followed approximately the same route from Santa Fe to the San
Juan Basin, westward to the Mancos River, thence northward across the
forest through the Dolores and San Miguel Valleys to the vicinity of the
present town of Placerville. From this point they crossed the Dallas
Divide to the Uncompahgre and Gunnison Valleys. De Rivera’s route beyond
that point is unrecorded. Escalante continued through Colorado, Utah,
Arizona, and New Mexico to Santa Fe.

    [Illustration:                                              F-376867
                                                           T-I-M-B-E-R!]

During these expeditions, Spanish names were given to many of the
geographical and topographical features and were retained throughout the
forest. Farther north, they were replaced by English names.

In 1831, the St. Louis Fur Company employed a party under command of W.
G. Walton to trap along the headwaters of the San Juan River. The party
spent the summer of 1833 in the valley of the Rio Dolores and at Trout
Lake. Parties under the command of Lieutenant Howard in 1861 and Colonel
Nash in 1866 were also in the Dolores Valley. Prospectors soon followed,
and claims were located in the vicinity of Rico in 1869. Ranchers came
in very soon after the prospectors, and the mining and cattle industries
were principally responsible for settlement and development within and
adjacent to the forest.


                       THE HIGHWAYS AND RAILROADS

Mancos, where the forest headquarters are located, and the southern part
of the forest may be reached over U S 160 from Durango and Alamosa,
Colo., to the east or Cortez and Monticello, Utah, from the west. U S
550, a highly scenic route from Montrose, Ouray, and Silverton, joins U
S 160 at Durango.

    [Illustration:                                              F-376864
    TROUT LAKE WITH VERMILION PEAK AND SAN JUAN MOUNTAINS IN BACKGROUND]

During the summer, busses operate over these highways between Grand
Junction and the Mesa Verde National Park, which lies a short distance
south of the Montezuma National Forest.

The best approach from the south is U S 666, from Shiprock, N. Mex., to
Cortez, on U S 160. From points near that junction two State highways
extend northward through the forest. State Highway 145 passes through
Dolores, Rico, Telluride, Placerville, and Norwood, important towns
within or near the forest, to junctions with State Highways 62 and 90.
State Highway 147 is a more direct route between Dolores and Norwood,
and State Highway 184 connects Dolores and Mancos.

The Rio Grande Southern Railroad was completed in 1891 and led to the
rapid development of the forest area. This railroad traverses
approximately the same route as State Highway 145 between Dolores and
Placerville, and the principal towns of the forest may be reached by
rail from Ridgeway or Durango, where connections are made with the
Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad.


                     OBJECTIVES OF NATIONAL FORESTS

There are 158 national forests within the United States, including two
in Alaska and one in Puerto Rico. They contain approximately 175,000,000
acres of public land and are administered by the Forest Service, United
States Department of Agriculture. The Montezuma is one of 14 in
Colorado.

To grow a timber crop and to protect the forest and vegetative cover as
a precautionary measure against erosion on the watersheds, are important
and necessary. To this end the national forests were established with
the positive injunction that all their resources were to be protected,
developed, and used in perpetuity for the benefit of all citizens.
Therefore, conservative use of all forest resources, with adequate
protection to insure a continual supply, has been the primary
consideration in their management.


                   WATERSHED VALUES OF THE MONTEZUMA

The forests of the Montezuma have high watershed value and a forest
cover is very important, because the dominant soil types are silt and
clay loam which erode readily. If these soils are not held in place,
much material is carried away by the streams. In the aggregate, this has
a considerable effect on the Colorado River and the water it furnishes
for irrigation.

The headwaters of the principal streams of this region rise on the
forested watersheds of the Montezuma. These watersheds are covered with
deep snows each winter, and the forest cover retards the melting snow
and provides a more uniform distribution of the run-off. Watershed
protection is, therefore, an essential and important factor in the
administration of the forest.

Irrigation water for Thompsons Park, the Montezuma and Paradox Valleys,
and the Norwood-Redvale country is provided by streams which rise in the
Montezuma Forest. The towns of Rico and Telluride obtain their water
supply from the forest. In addition to the use of water for irrigation
and domestic purposes, a number of water-power sites have been developed
on the forest. A large volume of water flows into the Colorado River,
and these waters are impounded by Boulder Dam and used for power and
irrigation in the general development of that project.


                        TIMBER IS CHIEF RESOURCE

The Montezuma National Forest has a stand of about 2,072,000,000 board
feet of timber. About 57 percent of this is Engelmann spruce, 23 percent
is ponderosa pine, and 19 percent is a mixture of alpine and cork-bark
fir. There are also small quantities of Douglas fir and piñon pine.

During the last 5-year period there has been an average yearly cut of
12,000,000 board feet of lumber on the forest. Most of this was sawed at
McPhee, where the largest sawmill in Colorado is located. It has a
capacity of 80,000 board feet each working day. In previous years, it
has sawed considerable timber cut from privately-owned land, but is now
dependent largely upon timber from the forest. The spruce timber, of
which there is a large amount on the Montezuma, is especially well
suited for pulpwood.

Timber is grown and cut in accordance with approved forestry methods.
Mature trees to be removed are marked in advance of cutting by trained
foresters. Trees which are not mature are left to be cut in later years.
They respond to the influence of more light, soil moisture, and
nutriment with greatly increased growth and also seed the open places.


                    UTILIZATION OF FORAGE RESOURCES

Raising livestock is a large and important industry in and adjoining the
forest. Stock is wintered on the nearby ranches and depends for summer
pasture on the forest ranges. Some 20,000 cattle and 66,000 sheep, owned
by 285 stockmen, are grazed on the forest each summer.

    [Illustration:                                              F-376871
                                                    MILL POND AT M’PHEE]

    [Illustration:                                               F-80528
                    SHEEP GRAZING IN A GRASS PARK AREA OF THE MONTEZUMA]

    [Illustration:                                              F-364895
           IMPROVED PUBLIC CAMP AND PICNIC GROUNDS ARE AVAILABLE AT MANY
             ATTRACTIVE POINTS ON NATIONAL FORESTS AND ARE EQUIPPED WITH
                           FIREPLACES, TABLES, AND SANITARY FACILITIES.]

The handling of the summer range is a large undertaking. Distribution
and management of livestock are carefully regulated to prevent damage to
the forest growth and to conserve the forage resources. A cover of
grasses and weeds must be retained to prevent erosion. Forest officers
constantly study the ranges and work with stockmen in planning
management of grazing and construction of improvements needed for the
control of stock.

In the allotment of range, previous use of the range and the raising of
sufficient forage to feed stock during the winter are determining
factors. The permanent ranch owner is given preference, which helps to
stabilize the industry.


                     HERE MINING IS ALSO IMPORTANT

Mining was and still is an important industry of the forest region. The
mines of Telluride and Ophir, in San Miguel County, have been heavy
producers. Telluride, with its famous Liberty Bell, Smuggler Union, and
Tomboy mines, is still one of the producing camps of southwestern
Colorado. Figures furnished by the United States Bureau of Mines place
the total ore production of these camps during the period 1875 to 1937,
inclusive, at $119,349,969. The output for 1930 to 1937, inclusive, was
$2,539,940.

Rico, the principal mining camp of Dolores County, reached the peak of
production in 1893, when ores to the value of $2,696,371 were mined. The
total output of mines in that vicinity since 1879 is placed at
$20,574,557.

Mining claims may be located in the national forests wherever ores of
sufficient value to justify development are found. Legitimate mining is
encouraged by the Forest Service.


                     RECREATION USE AND DEVELOPMENT

The recreation areas of the forest are extensively used by local
residents and tourists for picnicking, camping, fishing, hunting, and
riding. Improved public camp and picnic grounds are available at many
attractive points and are equipped with fireplaces, tables, and sanitary
facilities. Medium-price resort accommodations are available near and
within the forest from which trips may be made to points of scenic and
historical interest. Saddle horses and pack horses are obtainable for
those who wish to ride or camp in the back country and see the forest
from the many trails that lead into the areas not accessible by roads.

    [Illustration:                                              F-24903A
       USE OF FORAGE RESOURCE HELPS TO STABILIZE THE LIVESTOCK INDUSTRY]

    [Illustration:                                              F-376869
                                                 DOLORES RANGER STATION]


                        WILD AREAS OF THE FOREST

The Wilson Mountain Wild Area extends west from Lizard Head and
Blackface Mountains to Flat Top and Dolores Peaks and contains about
27,347 acres. Sunshine, Wilson, and Gladstone Mountains and Wilson Peak
are included, and the area affords the utmost in scenery and mountain
climbing. Nearly half of it is barren land above timberline. About 5,000
acres are wet meadows or alpine grasslands. The remainder is covered
with timber, chiefly Engelmann spruce and alpine fir. Grazing of
domestic stock, improvements necessary for fire protection, and
development of water-storage projects may be permitted, but there will
be no summer homes, no resorts or commercial enterprises, no scenic
highways, and no commercial timber cutting.

    [Illustration:                                              F-376868
                                                         LONE CONE PEAK]

An area of 2,800 acres, especially adapted to scientific and educational
use and known as the Narraguinnep Canyon Natural Area, has been
designated in the canyon of that name which drains into the Dolores
River, about 24 miles west of the town of Dolores. Access to this canyon
is difficult and no timber cutting or grazing of domestic stock is
permitted. Under these restrictions, it will be possible to preserve in
its virgin condition a typical southwestern Colorado canyon type of
ponderosa and piñon pine, juniper, oak, serviceberry, and other shrubs
and plants.


                          HUNTING AND FISHING

In 1937, forest officers estimated that there were 470 elk, 4,000 mule
deer, 400 black or brown bears, and a few mountain sheep on the forest.
Deer, mountain sheep, and bears are not increasing but are holding about
even numbers, while elk are increasing. The forest could support more of
these game animals, and efforts are being made to build up the big game
resources. Game birds are not plentiful, but grouse and ptarmigan may be
seen. Ducks nest on the numerous reservoirs and small lakes on the
forest.

    [Illustration:                                              F-376866
                                                           LOADING LOGS]

Excellent trout fishing is found in the streams and lakes. The Dolores
River affords 50 miles of good angling and its west fork 30 miles more.
East and West Mancos Rivers, Bear, Bilk, and Beaver Creeks, and
tributaries of the Dolores River are good fishing streams. Trout and
Woods Lakes contain large fish and are popular places for recreation.

Forest officers or State game wardens will gladly give information about
the routes to follow, the location of improved campgrounds, the better
places to hunt or fish, and where to obtain horses to go beyond the end
of the motor roads.

Sportsmen who enter the forests to hunt or fish should obtain the State
license required by law; and all are asked to exercise care with fire.


                       HELP PREVENT FOREST FIRES

The area now within the Montezuma National Forest suffered repeatedly
from fires before the forest was established. Since being put under
administration, the fire loss has been reduced. Nevertheless, the loss
has been considerable—4,037 acres of timber, grass, and brushland within
the forest having been burned over in 28 years, or an average of about
144 acres annually. Seventy-nine percent of this was burned in 6 bad
fire years. In 6 favorable years, the loss was less than 1 acre
annually. Without prompt action of local citizens and forest officers,
however, the average burned and the damage sustained would
unquestionably have been very much greater.

    [Illustration:                                              F-376870
                                  HAULING LOGS FROM THE NATIONAL FOREST]

Fire is the most destructive enemy of the forests. A lighted match,
cigarette, or cigar carelessly tossed aside, or a campfire left burning
may result in a disastrous forest fire and the destruction of valuable
forest cover.

About 51 percent of the fires that occur in the Rocky Mountain Region
are man-caused and are preventable. Visitors to the forests are urged to
exercise the greatest care with fire, and to follow carefully the SIX
RULES FOR PREVENTION OF FOREST FIRES printed elsewhere in this folder.


                         ASK THE FOREST RANGERS

The Montezuma National Forest is divided into five ranger districts,
each of which is administered by a forest ranger, working under the
direction of the forest supervisor. The rangers are always ready to
furnish information to visitors and assist them in every way possible.
The headquarters of the supervisor and the rangers are listed below:

  Forest Supervisor     U. S. Forest Service, Mancos, Colo.
  Forest Ranger         Mancos District, Mancos, Colo.
  Forest Ranger         Dolores District, Dolores, Colo.
  Forest Ranger         Glade District, Dolores, Colo.
  Forest Ranger         Rico District, Rico, Colo.
  Forest Ranger         Norwood District, Norwood, Colo.
  Forest Ranger         Timber Sales, McPhee, Colo.




                 Trees of the Montezuma National Forest


                                CONIFERS

PINES—Three species.—They have their needles gathered together at the
      base in bundles of from two to five. The cones are woody and
      pendent.

Limber pine (_Pinus flexilis_).—Stout, dark-green needles, 1½ to 3
      inches long, in bundles of five. Cones 3 to 10 inches long, with
      seeds about ⅓-inch in length. Cone scales smooth. Bark light gray,
      except on old trunks, which are blackish brown and furrowed.

Ponderosa pine (_Pinus ponderosa_).—This tree was formerly known as
      western yellow pine. Needles 5 to 11 inches long, dark green,
      usually three in a cluster, but often in twos and in tufts at the
      ends of the branches. Cones 3 to 6 inches long, oval-shaped. Cone
      scales armed with spines. When young, the bark is dark, and the
      tree is known as “black jack” or “bull pine.” When older, the bark
      is reddish brown and occurs in thick, scaly ridges.

Piñon or piñon pine (_Pinus edulis_).—Piñon is a short, scrubby tree,
      often growing in mixture with juniper, and is confined to the
      foothills. Needles usually in bundles of two, rarely three, ¾ to
      1½ inches long. Cones 1½ inches long and almost as broad,
      containing large seeds, which are the piñon nuts of commerce.

SPRUCES.—Two species. Needles scattered over the twigs singly. Needles
      are sharp-pointed, four-sided, leaving twigs rough like a grater
      when they fall off. Cones pendent, with parchmentlike scales,
      falling off the tree whole.

Engelmann spruce (_Picea engelmannii_).—The new-growth twigs are covered
      with soft, short hairs. Needles less rigid and less sharply
      pointed than those of blue spruce; green, dark blue green, or pale
      steel blue. Cones about 2 inches long. Bark is dark reddish brown
      and separates in the form of small, rounded scales. Main trunk, in
      contrast to blue spruce, is smooth and clean.

Blue spruce (_Picea pungens_).—The new-growth twigs are not covered with
      hair. Needles stiff, with sharp points, varying in color from
      silvery blue to green. Cones about 3 inches long. Bark of mature
      trunks gray and deeply furrowed. Main trunk always has numerous
      short twigs pushing out between branches.

FIRS.—Two species. Needles blunt, flat, and soft to touch, without any
      stem where they join branches. Needles leave flat, round scars
      when they fall off, in contrast to short stubs left by spruce
      needles on twigs. Cones, unlike those of other conifers, are
      erect. In the fall the cone scales drop off, leaving only a spike
      on the branch. Buds blunt and pitchy. Blisters containing pitch or
      balsam are scattered over the smoother bark.

Alpine fir (_Abies lasiocarpa_).—Blunt flat needles, about 1 to 1¾
      inches long, soft to the touch and fragrant. Needles tend to turn
      upward. Dark-purple cones, 2¼ to 4 inches long. Bark smooth,
      grayish white, except on older part of the trunk, where it is
      broken into ridges. Tree has a sharp, spirelike crown. Grows at
      high altitudes, usually with Engelmann spruce.

Corkbark fir (_Abies arizonica_).—The trunk, crown, cones, and needles
      of the corkbark and alpine fir are so alike in general appearance
      that the two cannot be readily distinguished by these features.
      The cone scales of the corkbark fir are of a different form than
      those of the alpine, and the bracts borne on the backs of the
      scales also differ materially. The ashy-gray, soft, corky trunk
      bark alone readily distinguishes this tree from the alpine fir.

DOUGLAS FIR (_Pseudotsuga taxifolia_).—Though similar in name, this
      species is not a true fir. Flat leaves, ¾ to 1½ inches long, with
      a short stem that joins them to the branches. Cones with
      three-pronged bracts extending beyond the cone scales. Cone scales
      persistent, the cones falling off the tree whole. Buds are
      sharp-pointed, shiny, smooth, red brown.

JUNIPERS or CEDARS.—Three species. Fruit reduced to small, bluish
      berries, needles reduced to tiny green scales on the twigs, though
      sometimes spreading and about ½ inch long, making twigs very
      prickly to the touch.

Rocky Mountain red cedar (_Juniperus scopulorum_).—Berries ¼ to ⅓ inch
      in diameter, bright blue, usually with 2 seeds. Berries mature in
      2 years. Bark scaly, twigs slender and graceful, heartwood red.

One-seed juniper (_Juniperus monosperma_).—Berries small, mostly less
      than ¼ inch in diameter, usually contain only one seed, maturing
      in 1 year. They are covered with a bluish bloom which may be
      rubbed off exposing the true reddish or coppery color. Twigs stiff
      and stout. Heartwood brown.

Utah juniper (_Juniperus utahensis_).—Berries ¼ to ⅓ inch long. Bark
      ashy gray, about ¼ inch thick, broken into long thin scales. Wood
      light brown, with nearly white sapwood. Berries are reddish brown,
      have one or rarely two seeds, mature in 2 years. A small bushy
      tree, rarely over 20 feet high.


                            BROADLEAF TREES

Aspen (_Populus tremuloides_).—Commonly called quaking aspen. Flat,
      broadly oval leaves, up to 4½ inches across, that tremble
      characteristically in a breeze. Bark whitish or very pale green,
      smooth, with black scars where branches have dropped off. Trees
      rarely more than 60 feet high.

Narrowleaf cottonwood (_Populus angustifolia_).—Usually a tall tree, 40
      to 60 feet high. Bark light yellow-green, divided near the base of
      old trees into flat ridges; smooth and thinner above. Leaves ¼ to
      1 inch wide and 2 or 3 inches long, very similar to willow leaves.
      Usually found along streams at lower elevations.

Mountain alder (_Alnus tenuifolia_).—Found along and overhanging
      streams, usually in clumps, several trees growing from the same
      root, frequently 4 to 6 inches in diameter and 15 to 25 feet high.
      Leaves double-toothed, 2 to 4 inches long and 1½ to 2½ inches
      wide. Mature seed-bearing fruit noticeable in winter.

Willows (_Salix, sp._).—The common shrub of creek bottoms. Usually
      narrow, sharp-pointed leaves. Some willows attain a diameter of 4
      inches and a height of 15 to 25 feet. Buds are covered by a single
      scale.

Western choke cherry (_Prunus demissa_).—Clustered flowers and fruit;
      alternate leaves, sharply pointed. Bark, leaves, and seed bitter.
      Fruit black. Tree, or more often a shrub, up to 15 feet in height.

Scrub oak (_Quercus sp._).—Usually a shrub, rarely over 15 feet high.
      Alternate leaves, smaller at the base than at the ends, with deep
      lobes, frequently drying on the tree and remaining over winter.
      Fruit, a short pointed acorn. Forms dense thickets at lower
      elevations. Often valuable for fence posts.

Pacific serviceberry (_Amelanchier florida_).—Leaves silvery, sharply
      toothed above the middle and alternate on branches. Trees, or more
      often shrubs, 6 to 15 feet high. Flowers white and in clusters.
      Five hard seeds in each berry. Berries edible, nearly black, when
      ripe.

Rocky Mountain maple (_Acer glabrum_).—Usually a shrub, but frequently
      20 to 30 feet high. Paired opposite buds, 3 to 5 lobed leaves,
      dark reddish-brown bark, and paired, winged seed. Leaves 3 to 5
      inches in diameter, opposite each other.

Boxelder (_Acer negundo_).—Compound leaves with 3 to 5, rarely 7,
      leaflets, pale-gray or light-brown bark, and paired, winged seeds,
      which ripen in the autumn. Compound leaves opposite each other.

Hawthorn (_Crataegus sp._).—Usually a shrub; dark scaly bark; leaves
      simple and alternate; fruit small, fleshy, and in clusters. Armed
      with sharp spines.




                   _Six Rules for Health Protection_


1. PURIFICATION.—Mountain streams will not purify themselves in a few
      hundred feet. Boil or chlorinate all suspected water.

2. GARBAGE.—Burn or bury all garbage, papers, tin cans, and old clothes.

3. EXCRETIONS.—Bury a foot deep all human excretions, at least 200 feet
      from streams, lakes, or springs.

4. WASHINGS.—Do not wash soiled clothing, utensils, or bodies in
      streams, lakes, or springs. Use a container and throw dirty water
      on the ground away from the water supply.

5. TOILETS.—Use public toilets where available. They are properly
      located. Toilets should be at least 200 feet from streams and not
      in gulches.

6. OBSERVE LAWS.—Observe the rules and endeavor to have others do the
      same. National and State laws impose heavy penalties for
      health-law violations. Report all violations or insanitary
      conditions (including dead animals) to the nearest health officer
      or Forest Service officer.




               _Six Rules for Prevention of Forest Fires_


1. MATCHES.—Be sure that your match is out. Break it in two before you
      throw it away.

2. TOBACCO.—Be sure that pipe ashes and cigar or cigarette stubs are
      dead before throwing them away. Never throw them into brush,
      leaves, or needles. Do not smoke while traveling through the
      woods.

3. MAKING CAMP.—Before building a fire scrape away all inflammable
      material from a spot 5 feet in diameter. Dig a hole in the center
      and in it build your campfire. Keep your fire small. Never build
      it against trees or logs or near brush. Where available, use
      grates and stoves which have been provided.

4. BREAKING CAMP.—Never break camp until your fire is out—DEAD OUT. Use
      water where available.

5. BRUSH BURNING.—Never burn slash or brush in windy weather or while
      there is the slightest danger that the fire will get away.

6. HOW TO PUT OUT A CAMPFIRE.—Stir the coals while soaking them with
      water. Turn small sticks and drench both sides. Wet ground around
      the fire. Be sure that the last spark is dead.




                               MONTEZUMA
                            NATIONAL FOREST
                            COLORADO   1939


    [Illustration:                                              F-376563
                                                           MYSTIC FALLS]

                       BE SURE YOUR MATCH IS OUT
                            BREAK IT IN TWO
                        BEFORE YOU THROW IT AWAY

                    U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE

    [Illustration: Montezuma National Forest]




                          Transcriber’s Notes


—Silently corrected a few typos.

—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
  is public-domain in the country of publication.

—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
  _underscores_.