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                            IT’S FUN TO SEW
                           aprons and skirts


                     COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE
                                PHASE 2
                   OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY, CORVALLIS
                          4-H CLUB SERIES L-86




                   It’s Fun to Sew—Aprons and Skirts


                              Prepared by
                             THETA JOHNSON
                 Clothing Specialist, Extension Service
                         Utah State University
                              Logan, Utah


                                PHASE 2


Where to find                                                       page
  Your guide for the project                                           1
  Plan your project                                                    1
  Take care of your clothing                                           2
      Shine your shoes                                                 2
      Sew on buttons                                                   2
  Assemble your sewing tools                                           3
  Do your shopping                                                     3
      Buying cotton fabric                                             3
  Learn to use the sewing machine                                      4
  Learn to press cotton                                                6
  Sew—have fun                                                         7
      Make a scarf                                                     7
      Make a sewing kit                                                8
      Make TV slippers                                                 8
      Make your apron or skirt                                         9
      Peasant apron with band                                         10
      Peasant apron with elastic top                                  12
      Gathered skirt                                                  13
      How does your apron or skirt look to you?                       16
  Complete your record book                                           17
  Show others what you have learned                                   17
      Exhibits                                                        17
      Give a demonstration                                            17
  Are you ready for the next project?                                 17


  _Read this book from cover to cover before you start your project._




                       Your guide for the project


Learn to sew—have fun. This book will help you get the right start on
your second 4-H clothing project. Read it carefully and study the
pictures. Ask your mother to read and study with you. Follow the
instructions and you will form good habits. This project is planned for
you. Learn to do each part step by step.

Keep this book in your sewing box. Refer to it whenever you need help.


                          Study these subjects

  1. Care of clothing—
    sew on buttons
    shine your shoes
    keep dresses on hangers in closets or placed neatly in drawers
  2. Good grooming—
    keep neat and tidy
    practice good health habits
  3. Cotton fabrics
  4. Use of your sewing machine


                            Articles to make

  One of the following first for practice
    Head scarf—single
    Head scarf—double
    Sewing kit
    TV slippers
  An apron or skirt as your main project
    Gathered skirt
    Peasant apron
    Elastic top apron
    Cover-all apron


                        Add to your record book

Your County extension agent will give you your 4-H record sheets. Keep
your clothing record up to date. Write your 4-H story for the year when
you complete your project. Be sure to fill in your permanent record,
too. There are places on your permanent record to show the activities
you have participated in—be sure to keep a record of them. Activities
plus project work make a well-rounded 4-H program.


                     Learn to give a demonstration

Show others what you have learned by giving a demonstration at one of
your club meetings. When you show another club member how to tie a knot
or sew on a button, you are giving a “demonstration.” Things that are
done or seen are remembered longest. Give your demonstration alone or
with a partner. You will find demonstrations interesting and helpful.
Ask your leader to give you ideas on how to give a demonstration. Choose
a topic you have studied in your project.




                           Plan your project


You will want to talk about your project with your mother and leader.
This will help you to understand your project. Study the project outline
and your record book. Take your mother with you to your first 4-H club
meeting.

You will need your mother’s cooperation in selecting equipment and
cloth.

Plan to do all your shopping at one time. Buy the cloth for your apron
or skirt and slippers or scarf at the time you buy your sewing
equipment. This will save you time.

Before you go shopping make a list of all of the things you will need.
Think about the blouses or dresses you have when you plan the colors for
your skirt or apron. You may want to wear your scarf and skirt
together—if you do, plan the colors to go together.

This project is more than just sewing. You will study health and good
grooming and how to care for your clothes.

Get off to a good start by learning how to care for your shoes and how
to sew on buttons.




                       Take care of your clothing


                            Shine your shoes

Daily care will improve the looks of your shoes and will help make them
wear longer. Clean and polish your shoes. Wipe them off with a clean
(wool) cloth and brush away the loose dirt before you put them away.
When they need polishing, use one of the many good polishes that are on
the market. Select the kind that is best for the leather in your shoes.
Follow the directions given with the polish.

    [Illustration: Shoe]

Shoes become damp from perspiration when you wear them. Wearing socks
will protect the lining. Allow your shoes to dry thoroughly between
wearings. Filling the toes of your shoes with tissue paper will help
absorb the moisture.

Examine your shoes for signs of wear. Keep the heels straight and do not
wear the sole through before having it repaired. Have all rips mended as
soon as they appear.

Do not place wet shoes near heat or in the sun to dry. When they are
dry, clean and polish them to make them look like new.

Your dress is only as pretty as the shoes you wear with it. Are you
proud of the care you give your shoes? Keep a record of the care you
give your shoes in your record book.


                             Sew on buttons

To help mother care for the family clothing, why don’t you take the
responsibility of replacing buttons on shirts and blouses for the
family. Make a game of it with other members of your club. Have a button
contest. Give yourself a point for each button you sew on. The club
could plan to give a prize to the girl who sews on the most buttons
during the club year.

Keep a record of the buttons you sew on, something like this:

     Date         Article of clothing        Points—or number of
                                                   buttons

  ___________     __________________        ____________________
  ___________     __________________        ____________________
  ___________     __________________        ____________________
  ___________     __________________        ____________________
  ___________     __________________        ____________________
  ___________     __________________        ____________________

Record the total in your record book.

Use buttons to trim your bedroom slippers. Select one flat, medium-sized
one or three small ones. Arrange them on the toes of your slippers to
make an attractive trim.

                         How to sew on a button

1. Make a small knot in double thread (15 inches long). Fasten to
article where center of the button is to be placed. Take two or three
stitches over the knot.

2. Sew the button in place with one or two stitches. See that the
stitches run in the same direction as the buttonhole.

    [Illustration: Sewing on a button]

3. Place a pin on top of buttons under the first stitches. This makes a
shank. Continue to sew on the button. Take as many stitches as necessary
to hold the button securely. When the stitches are in place, remove the
pin. Lift the button away from the article. Wind the thread tightly
around the stitches, as shown, and fasten the thread on the back by
taking three or four stitches, one on top of the other.




                       Assemble your sewing tools


You will need a sewing box or basket and good sewing tools. Obtain a
small box to hold your tools and another one large enough to hold your
small box plus your apron or skirt. A small suitcase makes an ideal
sewing box.

    [Illustration: Sewing tools]

You will need

_Thimble_—This is for the middle finger. Make sure of a snug fit. A
thimble protects your finger.

_Needles_—A package of needles, assorted sizes of 7 to 9 sharps, will
give you the various sizes needed. Use as fine a needle as will carry
the thread you are using.

_Thread_—White mercerized thread No. 50 is used for basting. Match other
thread to your fabric.

_Pins_—Select smooth fine dressmaker pins so they will not leave a dark
spot on your cloth. These usually come in a box.

_Pin cushion_—Plan for a pin cushion that can be worn on the wrist. You
may make or buy this.

_Scissors and shears_—Scissors have short blades and are used for
snipping threads and cutting small pieces of material. Seven-inch blades
are a good length. Shears have one long handle for the fingers and one
short one for the thumb. Scissors with bent handles are handy because
the cutting blade rests flat on the table. Use plain scissors to cut out
your articles. Do not use pinking shears.

_Tape measure_—Select a tape measure that will wear well and one that is
numbered with “1” on each end on opposite sides.

_Measuring gauge_—You can cut a gauge from cardboard or buy a 4-inch
metal one. From the start, learn to measure accurately. On a tape or
measuring gauge, locate the 1-inch, ½-inch, and ¼-inch marks.




                            Do your shopping


                          Buying cotton fabric

When you start to sew, it is most important that you have a fine, firm
piece of cotton cloth. The best fabric for your scarf, skirt, or apron
is percale, either plain or crease resistant. Percale is soft and firm,
and comes in figured and plain colors. Select a small all-over pattern
in colors that you will enjoy wearing. Avoid plain colors, plaids, or
large designs. Also avoid cloth which feels stiff. Crush several pieces
of cloth in your hand. You will be able to tell the difference. Select
the one that wrinkles the least.

When you buy your fabric, be sure it is preshrunk and colorfast. Also
find out if it is crease-resistant and how to wash it. Is it hand
washable or machine washable? You will find most of this information on
the end of the bolt of fabric or on attached labels. Study these and
also ask the clerk to tell you about the fabrics.

    [Illustration: Bolt of fabric]

  WASH & WEAR
  LITTLE or NO IRONING
  MACHINE WASH—DRIP DRY
  CREASE RESISTANT

  Cotton/Arnell
  coordinates

  55% Cotton
  45% Arnell Tri-Acetate

  WIDTH 44/5″
  COLOR______
  YDS._______

Good percale has the same number of threads in the warp as in the
filling. The warp threads are those that run the long way of the fabric.
The filling threads go back and forth across the warp threads. The
filling threads are softer than the warp threads but not as strong.
Examine the edge of the fabric. The edge is called selvage. It is
stronger than the rest of the cloth because it has more threads in it.
This may also cause it to shrink more during washing.

    [Illustration: Selvedge]

Percales should be torn, not cut, from the bolt. This leaves a straight
line or shows one thread for the entire width of the cloth. Before you
buy any fabric, lay the folded cloth on the counter and examine the torn
end. Are both sides even or is one side an inch or so shorter than the
other? Select a piece which is reasonably even. Do not select fabric if
one side is more than ½-inch shorter.

Border prints make interesting skirts. Study the design on the cloth and
buy enough cloth so you can match the design on the side seam. Make sure
the fabric is straight. Crooked fabric will give you a curved side seam.

    [Illustration: I KNOW THESE FABRICS—DO YOU?]

Percale may be used for all the articles you will make in this year’s
project. Other fabrics that may be used are chambray, broadcloth,
poplin, and novelty fabrics.

Plan a shopping tour with your club before buying your fabric. After
studying the different cotton fabrics, have your leader and mother help
you select the fabric for your scarf, apron, or skirt. If you plan to
make a double scarf, buy ½ yard additional fabric like your skirt and
the same amount of a contrasting color.

You will need two washcloths if you plan to make the TV slippers. Select
medium weight washcloths either with or without border trim.




                    Learn to use the sewing machine


Many of you learned to use the sewing machine in Phase 1 of _It’s Fun to
Sew_. You will find this section of your bulletin to be a good review.

For those of you who are starting with this phase, this section will
help you become acquainted with the parts of the machine and will tell
you how to use it.

_The needle_—Notice that it has an eye near the point instead of at the
top like the one you use for hand sewing.

_The presser foot_—See the two toes between which the needle passes?
This is the presser foot. Find the small metal arm which raises the
presser foot up and down. The metal arm is on the back of the machine.

_The bobbin_—This carries the thread for the underside of the sewing.
Bobbins are different shapes and sizes for different machines. Learn to
place the bobbin in the machine and to remove it. Learn to wind the
bobbin.

_The balance wheel_—This is the wheel on the right-hand side of the
machine.

When you can recognize these parts and know their use, you are ready to
learn to run the machine. Check these points before you start to use the
machine:

1. Remove the bobbin and top thread.

2. Have the needle up as far as it will go.

3. Raise the presser foot.


                        How to start the machine

You are now ready to get the “feel” of running the sewing machine. You
will first practice starting the machine off slowly and evenly.

If you use an electric machine, you must learn how much pressure to put
on the knee or foot control. Remember there is a lot of power in an
electric machine.

If you use a treadle machine, put both feet on the treadle, one ahead of
the other. With your right hand, move the balance wheel forward or back,
whichever is right for your kind of machine. Take your hand off the
balance wheel and treadle with your feet, pressing first with your toes
and then with your heels. Practice treadling until you can run it
smoothly at a moderate speed.

    [Illustration: Sewing.]


                        How to stop the machine

Try stopping the machine by slowing down the treadling or releasing the
pressure on the electric control. With your right hand, stop the balance
wheel. Turn the wheel slowly until the needle is raised as high as it
will go. Always do this when you stop the machine. Practice starting and
stopping. You will do this many times while you are sewing. Try
stitching both forward and backward if there is a reverse lever on your
machine.


                        Practice sewing on paper

Now that you can run the machine, practice sewing by first stitching on
paper. Draw some straight and curved lines on paper as a guide to follow
as you stitch. Here is how to do it:

Place the end of a line under the needle.

Lower the presser foot. This holds the paper securely and helps feed it
through the machine.

Start the machine by turning the balance wheel. Treadle slowly or press
on the foot or knee release of the electric machine.

Guide the paper with both hands. Place the left hand in back of the
needle and the right in front of the needle. Keep your hands at a safe
distance from the needle when stitching.

When you can stitch straight and control the speed of the machine, you
are ready to learn to thread the machine and start sewing an
easy-to-make article.


                           Thread the machine

You can best learn to thread the machine by having your leader show you
how to thread it. Then practice while she watches you. Watch closely
when she draws the bobbin thread to the top and see how she pulls both
threads back of the presser foot. Learn about the tension. The tension
determines whether or not you have a good stitch. Until you are older,
have your leader or mother adjust the tension for you. Watch her while
she does it.


                            Check the stitch

Pull both top and bobbin threads back of the presser foot. Place a
double thickness of cloth under the presser foot and make several inches
of stitching. Inspect the stitch. Does it look the same on both sides?
If not, have the tension adjusted until it does.

Use 12 stitches to the inch for the type of sewing you will be doing.
Have your leader show you how to adjust the length of the stitch.

When you have finished sewing, raise the needle as far as it will go.
Raise the presser foot and pull the fabric back about 4 inches from the
needle. Cut the thread with your scissors or on the cutting knife on the
side of the needle-bar.

    [Illustration: Sewing machine needle]


                           Use a cloth gauge

A cloth gauge placed to the right of the needle will aid you in making
straight seams. Place a strip of colored scotch tape, band aid, or
adhesive tape to the right of the needle if you do not have a gauge.
Watch the edge of your cloth as it follows along the gauge rather than
watching the needle when stitching. This will help you make a straighter
seam.


                      Your posture at the machine

Posture is important. If you sit “tall,” you will be less tired and will
do better work.


                         Become a 4-H machinist

There is a special activity planned to help you learn how to use the
sewing machine. It is called “Know Your Sewing Machine.” Ask your leader
and county home agent about this.

Learning to use the machine is the most important part of this clothing
project and it is a lot of fun. Bring your mother to club with you the
day you study machines so she can enjoy it with you. When you have
learned to use the machine and can pass your test for a 4-H sewing
machinist, your leader will sign your certificate. You are now ready to
start to sew.


                          Have you learned to:

  [_] Start and stop the machine?
  [_] Run the machine smoothly?
  [_] Wind the bobbin and place it in its case or shuttle?
  [_] Thread the machine, top and bobbin, and pull up the bobbin thread?
  [_] Adjust the length of stitch?
  [_] Stitch on straight lines, corners, and curves?
  [_] Guide, not force, the fabric?
  [_] Tell a good stitch?




                         Learn to press cotton


Examine the iron—locate the different parts. Set the heat indicator of
your iron for cotton. This will keep the iron at the correct
temperature.

Cotton may be ironed on either the right or the wrong side. If your
fabric does not iron out smoothly or take a sharp crease, dampen it.
Here is how to do it:

Dampen a piece of cheesecloth and squeeze it tight. Do not make it wet.
Place it over the cloth you want to press and set iron on it. Steam will
form and dampen the cloth.

Always iron or press with the grain of the cloth. Follow the warp or the
filling threads. Do not iron on the bias.

    [Illustration: STRAIGHT and BIAS]




                              Sew—have fun


Now that you have practiced using the sewing machine, you are ready to
make a scarf, slippers, or sewing kit.


                              Make a scarf

    [Illustration: Wearing a scarf]

This scarf may be made larger than the measurements suggested but it
will require more fabric. Using these measurements, a square of cloth
can be cut into four scarves. It will be more economical to cut a scarf
this way if four in your club use the same colored fabric.

Plan to have your scarf match or look nice with your skirt. For a double
scarf, have one side the same as your skirt fabric and one a plain or
contrasting color. A single scarf may either match your skirt or be a
contrasting color.


                              Double scarf

    [Illustration: Scarf Pattern]

Cut two triangles of fabric—

  1—plain
  1—contrast

Pin right sides together and sew a ½-inch seam around edge.

Start sewing 6 inches from center of scarf. Stitch around scarf and stop
3 inches before reaching starting point (see diagram). The opening is
for turning your scarf.

    [Illustration: Scarf seam]

Press the seams open. Then trim the seams until they are ¼-inch wide.
Trim off corners. Turn your scarf and press.

    [Illustration: Hemmed scarf]

Baste a slot for headband, 14 inches long and ¾ inch wide. Sew across
one end. Turn and stitch along basting threads. Turn and stitch across
other end. See diagram.

    [Illustration: Scarf and headband]

Sew (by hand) 2 inches of opening, leaving 1 inch open to insert head
band.

Insert head band and your scarf is finished.


                              Single scarf

Cut one triangle of fabric.

    [Illustration: Scarf pattern]

Press ¼-inch hem on both 25-inch sides of scarf. Press ¾-inch hem on
long edge of scarf.

    [Illustration: Hemmed scarf]

Trim off end of hem on dotted lines. Turn ends under even with side
hems. Press.

    [Illustration: Folds in cloth]

Miter corner on point of scarf according to directions under sewing kit.

    [Illustration: Mitered corners]

Refold the scarf on folds for hem. You now have a mitered corner.

    [Illustration: Stitched scarf]

Stitch around your scarf. Start stitching 6 inches from center on
35-inch side. Stitch all around scarf.

Stop 1 inch from where you started to stitch. Turn and stitch to folded
edge of hem. Stitch across hem 7 inches from center of scarf to make
other end of slot to hold head band. Finish two top corners by hand.
Trim off peak (x) to edge of hem. Insert head band and your scarf is
finished.


                           Make a sewing kit

    [Illustration: Sewing kit pattern]

This kit can be used to roll your sewing in and to cover your work table
to protect your fabric while you are sewing.

    [Illustration: Hems]

Use a 36-inch square of muslin. Make a ¼-inch hem on all sides.

To make the hem, turn the edge of the fabric over ¼ inch and press. Turn
this over once again and press. Pin or baste around the hem. Pressing
eliminates many hours of basting.

Miter the corners. Open the corners and fold along diagonal dotted line
as shown in the diagram. Refold the hem and press.

Start to stitch in the center of one side and continue to stitch all
around the square. Stitch as near the edge of the hem as possible.
Remove your sewing kit from the machine when you finish stitching and
tie ends of the threads. Pull out the basting and press your sewing kit.
Trim off the extra fabric in each corner.

Place an 8 x 12-inch pocket in the center of this square to hold your
pattern and sewing equipment. See “Pockets,” page 12.


                      Make TV or lounging slippers

    [Illustration: Slippers]

Materials needed:

  2 washcloths
  thread to match
  2 10-inch pieces of ¼-inch elastic
  wool yarn for pompons or flat buttons

1. Fold each cloth in half. If there is a design on two sides, fold the
cloth so the design is at the top. Stitch 4 inches from folded edge for
top. Make a ¼-inch seam.

    [Illustration: Folded sewing kit]

Stitch from fold to edge of cloth for heel on other end of washcloth.
Stand on a ruler and measure length of your foot. Add 1½ inches to this
length to get the size needed for your slipper. Example: foot—9 inches,
plus 1½ inches equal 10½ inches. Your seam will be at this point. Most
washcloths are 12 inches square. You would have a heel seam 1½ inches
wide.

2. Turn seams to inside. Open the heel seam.

3. Fold the edges over 2 inches to the outside of the slipper. Pin or
paste in place. Stitch ½ inch from folded edge to make a casing for the
elastic. Tie or back tack ends of thread.

    [Illustration: Casing for elastic]

4. Thread elastic through casing. Use medium-size safety pin. Pin to one
end of elastic and thread elastic through casing. Start at opening of
front toe. Pull both ends so they extend out from slipper. Overlap ends
½ inch and sew them together.

    [Illustration: Threading elastic]

Pull on heel and toe seam and the slippers will cover the elastic. Trim
your slippers with pompons or buttons.

    [Illustration: Making pompons]

5. To make the pompons, use a four-tined table fork. Cut a piece of yarn
about 6 inches long and place through the center tine of the fork. Bring
both ends down and hold next to the handle. Now wrap the yarn around the
tines, either weave it in and out of the tines or wrap smoothly around.
When the tines are completely covered, bring the two ends which you are
holding with the handle up around the other yarn and tie a knot, at the
same time slipping the yarn from the fork. Tie securely. Clip through
looped ends and fluff into a ball.

Sew pompons to center front of slipper to cover opening for elastic.

You may use buttons to trim your slippers instead of the pompons. Select
flat buttons that can be washed. Use one average or large button or
three small ones on each toe. (See “How to sew on a button,” page 2.)

Select yarn or buttons that will look nice on your slippers. They may be
the same color as the slippers or another color that will look good on
them. Try several colors. Medium colored buttons rather than black or
other dark colors look best on pale colored slippers.


                        Make your apron or skirt

    [Illustration: Aprons and skirt]

Aprons and skirts are fun and easy to make. This will probably be the
first apron or skirt you have ever made all by yourself. Your leader
will show you how to make it, step by step. Follow her instructions and
you will learn to sew in no time at all. Learn to do each step right the
first time.


                 Choose one that you would like to make

1. Peasant-type skirt

2. Peasant apron with straight band

3. Peasant apron with elastic top

Plan to have one or two pockets on your apron or skirt.


                        Peasant apron with band

You will need to buy:

  30 inches of 39-inch percale or other firm cotton fabric—if you are
          taller you will need more material to make your apron longer.
  1 spool of matching thread

    [Illustration: Apron pattern]

  SELVAGE
  APRON 20 × 32½
  5 × 32½ SASHES
  5 × 32½
  SELVAGE
  6½ × 18 BAND
  POCKETS
  5 × 6½
  5 × 6½


                       Measure and cut your apron

Mark the apron according to the diagram.

  Band                       6½ x 18 inches
  Apron skirt                20 x 32½ inches
  Two sashes                 32½ x 5 inches
  One or two pockets         6½ x 5 inches

Measure and mark off these pieces with chalk or pins before cutting. Cut
with long, even strokes.


                            Make your sashes

Fold the right sides of each sash together. Place pins across the
stitching lines as shown in the diagram. Make a ¼-inch seam along the
side and end of the sash. Backstitch for two or three stitches to make
the end of your thread secure. Trim off the corner.

Check the stitch on your machine. Be sure it looks the same on both
sides of the fabric.

    [Illustration: Stitched sash]

Press the seam open and turn the sash. Use the end of a table knife or
ruler for turning. Press the sash flat, keeping the seam at the edge.
Make the corners square.

If you prefer to hem the sash, make a ¼-inch hem, miter the corners. See
instructions on scarf, pages 7 and 8.


                         Press and stitch hems

Side hems

1. Make a ¼-inch hem on each side of the apron. To make a hem, press a
¼-inch fold on the side edges of your apron (20-inch sides). Press with
your fingers, then with the iron.

    [Illustration: First turn]

2. Fold edge over again ¼ inch and press. Stitch along edge of hem. This
completes the hem.

_Selvage edge_—If the selvage is used, clip only the very edge of it
every 2 or 3 inches. This prevents puckering when it is laundered. Fold
the edge over ¼ inch, press and stitch. A double hem is not needed.

                               Bottom hem

Make a 3-inch hem on the bottom of your apron. Measure and turn ¼-inch
fold at bottom of apron. Press. From this edge measure 3 inches, fold,
and press. Pin and stitch the hems. Use matching thread. Stitch as near
as you can to the edge of the hem. Backstitch on both ends of hem.


                          Gather the top edge

Divide the top edge of your skirt into four equal parts.

Set your cloth guide for a ¼-inch seam. Lengthen your stitch to make the
largest stitch possible.

Make three rows of stitching along the top of the apron, placing rows ¼
inch apart. Place the first row ¼ inch from the edge. Be sure to follow
the guide.

    [Illustration: Gathered top edge]


                          Make your apron band

Your apron band is made the same way as a skirt band, only the
proportions are different. Turn to page 14 for illustrations.

1. Press a ½-inch fold along one side of your 18-inch band. Divide the
band, lengthwise into three equal parts. This gives three 2-inch
sections. Make the section with the ½-inch fold slightly shorter than
the other two sections. Place a damp press cloth over the folded band
and press sharp creases along the folds.

2. The section with the ½-inch fold is the front of your band. The
double part is the back. Stitch criss-cross through the back part of the
band. You can stitch straighter if you make a guide or pattern. Cut a
strip of waxed paper the length and width of your band, 18 x 2 inches.

Fold in four equal sections.

Then fold it diagonally. Then diagonally again. Open the paper and pin
it to the band and follow the creases in the paper. This will give
practice on starting and stopping the machine and on turning corners.
Tear the paper away after the stitching is completed.

    [Illustration: Apron band]

3. Pin and sew the end of the sashes to the end of the band. Fold the
band right sides together, and stitch across ends. Do not sew the ½-inch
fold at bottom of band into the seam.

    [Illustration: Apron band]

Stitch both sides. Turn and press along the original crease.

    [Illustration: Band on apron]


                           Sew apron to band

Be sure the edges of the band and apron are marked in four equal parts.
Place the right side of the apron to the right side of the band. Match
the quarter marks and pin. Place the hemmed ends of the apron at the
seam ends of the band. Ease in the fullness in the apron until it fits
the band. Pull all bobbin threads from each end at the same time. Pull
gently so you do not break the threads. Spread the gathers so they are
even and pin. Baste along the second row of gathering and the crease in
the band. Machine stitch along the bastings. Press.

Pin so back edge of band is ⅛ inch longer than edge of front of band.
Top stitch along front edge of band. This finishes your band. Be sure to
press the band before you stitch. It will make stitching easier.

                            Add your pockets

Pockets are for both use and decoration. Make patch pockets that are
securely stitched and have no raw edges at the top.

Press the side and bottom hems of the pocket first. Then fold the top
hem over and stitch in place. Study the most convenient location for
your pocket. Baste it in place. Check to see that it is even. Reinforce
the top of the pocket with double stitching, as shown in the drawing.
Stitching is ¼ inch apart.

    [Illustration: Pockets]

Remove gathering stitches and press your apron.

    [Illustration: Finished apron]


                     Peasant apron with elastic top


                          You will need to buy

  30 inches of cotton fabric
  1 spool of matching thread
  14 inches of ½-inch elastic


                       Measure and cut your apron

Cut your apron 20 x 31 inches. This will fit a girl of size 10 to 12.
Make this longer than 20 inches if you are tall.

Cut two sashes 26 x 5 inches.

Cut two pockets 5 x 5 inches.

Make sashes and hems the same as for peasant apron with band, page 10.

    [Illustration: Apron pattern]

  31 in.
  20in.   APRON
  5in.   26 in.   Pocket 5in.
  5in.   SASHES   Pocket 5in.

Make the side hems ¼ inch wide and the top and bottom hems 2 inches
wide.


                             Gather the top

1. Make a heading or hem at the top of your apron. From the top edge of
the apron, measure down ¾ inch and mark with pins or chalk. Start
stitching at upper corner and slope to ¾-inch line. Stitch across the
apron and slope up to the corner.

    [Illustration: Hemmed apron]

2. Stitch one sash to end of ½-inch elastic. Thread elastic through
heading. Then stitch other sash to end of elastic. Pull ends of sashes
into heading of apron.

    [Illustration: Elastic hem]

3. Finish ends of bottom hem with a slip or blind stitch.

The slip stitch is used on a hem with a folded edge.

Fasten the knotted thread in the fold of the hem. Slip the needle
through the fold for about ½ inch. Pick up one thread in the skirt or,
if the fabric permits, split a thread with the needle. This thread
should lie at right angles to the hem edge. Slip the needle back into
the fold of the fabric, and continue hemming. Stitches are almost as
invisible on the wrong side as the right side of the skirt.

    [Illustration: SLIP STITCH]


                             Gathered skirt

Select fabric that is colorful and gay for your skirt. Closely woven
cloth will be easy to sew and will hold a sharp crease.

You will need from 3 to 3½ yards of fabric for your skirt. The more
fabric you try to gather in your skirt the harder it will be to make.
For the girl of average height cut your skirt as follows:


                         How to cut your skirt

Cut or tear a 6½-inch strip from one side of your skirt fabric. Measure
in from the selvage edge. Use this for the skirt band and pockets. There
will be some left over.

Tear off the selvage edge from the large piece.

    [Illustration: Skirt pattern]

  6½″
  SELVAGE
  BAND
  POCKET
  POCKET
  CUT OR TEAR
  SELVAGE

You may have to cut the band from the end of your fabric instead of the
side if you are tall and need the extra length.

The above method of cutting gives you one seam on the placket side.

Sometimes the design in the fabric will be more attractive if the skirt
is cut in several lengths. When this is necessary, you will have three
or four seams in your skirt. This may make a difference in the amount of
fabric you will need, so decide how you will cut your skirt before
buying your fabric.


                            Make your skirt

Pin the short edges together to make the side seam. Make the seam 1¼
inches wide. It is to be used for the placket. When finished, the
placket will be on the left side.

Stitch the side seam. Stitch the seam from the bottom up. At a point 5
inches from the top, turn and stitch half way across the seam. Turn both
edges of the seam toward the front section and press.

    [Illustration: Stitched seam]

Trim the seams. Start at the bottom of the wide seam and trim it to ⅝
inch wide up to the placket. Do not trim above this point.

    [Illustration: Trimmed seam]


                           Finish the placket

1. Baste and stitch a ½-inch hem on the back edge of the placket.

    [Illustration: Hem on placket]

2. Fold the front edge of the placket even with seam line. Press. Now
fold again to make a complete hem. Baste.

    [Illustration: Pinned placket]

Pin placket together. Stitch from the top to the bottom of the placket,
turn and stitch across the end of first stitching. Pull threads through
and tie ends. This is a strong, easy-to-make placket.

    [Illustration: Stitched placket]


                             Hem the skirt

Skirts look best with hand-stitched hems. Make the hem before placing
the band on the skirt. Unless you have poor posture, it will hang even.
Decide how long you would like your finished skirt to be. Be careful not
to make it too short. Measure from the top edge to the length you would
like the skirt to be and press in the hem. Turn the top edge of the hem
under ½ inch. Your skirt will be prettier if you make a wide hem—3
inches or wider.

When the hem has been carefully pressed, stitch ⅛ inch from the fold of
the top edge of the hem, to keep the fold in place. Pin hem in place.
Ask your leader to show you a hand hemming stitch.


                Place gathering threads at top of skirt

Make a long stitch on your machine. Use size 50 top thread and heavy
duty for bobbin thread.

Using the guide on your machine, stitch around the top of your skirt ¼
inch from the edge. Make two more rows ¼ inch apart. You are now ready
to make your skirt band.

    [Illustration: Gathering treads]


                          Make the skirt band

1. Measure your waist. Add 2½ inches. This will give you the length
needed for your skirt band. Cut your band 6½ inches wide.

2. Press a ½-inch fold along one side of your band. From the folded edge
divide the rest into three sections. This gives three 2-inch sections.
Make the section with the ½-inch fold slightly shorter than the other
two sections. Press.

3. The section with the ½-inch fold is the front of your band. Stitch
criss-cross through the back part of the band. You can stitch straighter
if you make a guide or pattern. Cut a strip of waxed paper the length
and width of your band, 24 x 2 inches.

    [Illustration: Cross-stitched band]

Fold it in six equal sections. Then fold it diagonally. Then diagonally
again. Open the paper and pin it to the band and follow the creases in
the paper. This will give practice on starting and stopping the machine
and on turning corners. Tear the paper away after the stitching is
completed.

    [Illustration: Folded paper for band]

4. Stitch a ½-inch seam at the ends of the band. Turn and press. Do not
sew the ½-inch fold at the bottom of band into the seam.


                           Gather in fullness

Divide both your skirt and the skirt band into eight equal parts to help
you make the gathers even in your skirt. Do not include the placket or
1-inch overlap at the end of the band. Mark with colored threads. Mark
the skirt band so the extension or extra length will be on the back of
the placket. The front of band will be even with the front edge of the
placket.

Pin and stitch band to skirt.

Pin the pieces together, right side of skirt to right side of band.
Match dividing marks that you have made. Gently pull on the gathering
threads at the side seams, the center front, and the center back. Pull
the threads until they are the same length as the band. Work with the
gathers until they are even. Baste and stitch along ½-inch fold on the
skirt band.


                          Top stitch the band

Fold the double section of your band toward the back and baste the edge
of the band to the skirt. Baste it so the folded edge hangs just below
the stitching you just made on the front side of the band. Machine
stitch from the front side of the band. Place the stitching as near the
edge of the band as you can. Press before you stitch. It will flatten
the seam and make stitching easier.


                            Press your skirt

Press your skirt. Use a dampened cheese-cloth and an iron set for
ironing cotton, or use a steam iron. A skirt must be well pressed and
fresh looking to be pretty.

    [Illustration: Pressed skirt]


                        Fastenings for the skirt

    [Illustration: Fastenings]

Study the drawing above. It shows the placing for fasteners on your
skirt. Sewing them in this position will keep the placket from gaping.
Sew a snap fastener in the center of the placket if it is needed to keep
it closed. Do not try to set in a zipper. Use hooks and eyes or buttons
for fastening this band.

_Buttons and buttonholes_—When buttons and buttonholes are used, make
the buttonhole lengthwise of the band. Place it far enough from the end
of the band so there will be at least ¼ inch beyond the button when it
is sewed in place. Measure half the distance across your button and add
¼ inch for this measurement.

Learn to use the machine attachment for making buttonholes. They are
stronger and easier for you to make than hand-made buttonholes. Have
your leader, mother, or a neighbor set it up for you and show you how to
use it. After you have made a few sample buttonholes, make some in your
apron or on your skirt. If you have a machine with a zig-zag stitch,
learn to make buttonholes on it.

Pin the band together and mark place for buttons. See page 2 for
instructions for sewing on buttons.


                      Sew fasteners to skirt band

_Snaps_—Examine the snap fasteners. One part has a ball on top. This is
placed on the front part or top of your placket. The other part has a
hole or socket and is placed on the back or under part of the placket.
Place them exactly opposite each other on your placket.

Sew the top snap on first. Mark the placing of the bottom part of the
snaps by rubbing chalk on the ball and then pinning placket together.
Press ball against fabric. The chalk will rub off and mark the exact
spot to sew the under part of the snap.

    [Illustration: Snap fasteners]

Sew snap fasteners on with several over-and-over stitches. Be sure to
hide your knot under the snap. Sew securely through all four holes. When
you cross from one hole to the other, take a stitch in the cloth and
bring your needle up from the under side to the next hole.

_Hooks and eyes_—Each package of hooks and eyes, has two types of eyes,
a round and a straight. Use the round eye for your skirt. Sew the hook
on the inside edge of the top part of your band. (You will need two.)
Sew these with several over-and-over stitches.

    [Illustration: Hooks and eyes]

Sew several stitches through the hook end. Pin the placket in place and
place the round eye directly under the hook. Sew with several
over-and-over stitches.

Press all the things you have made. Pressing will improve their
appearance. Make sure they are clean.

Have each member of your club judge what you have made and then make the
corrections they suggest.


               How does your apron or skirt look to you?

Once again, score your own and other club members’ work. These are the
points to use in judging:

                                                         _Your score_

  1. Fabric or trimming used                               25   _____
     Is it suitable for aprons and skirts?
     Will it launder?
     Will it wear well?
  2. Workmanship                                           35   _____
     Are seams, hems, finish good choices?
     Are they well made?
  3. Design and color                                      20   _____
     Are design and color attractive?
     Are they right for you?
  4. Condition of article                                  10   _____
     Is it clean?
     Is it well-pressed?
  5. Value of garment                                      10   _____
     Is there good value for the time and money spent?
                                                  Total   100   _____




                       Complete your record book


Your record book is important. Examine it carefully. Have you completed
your clothing record? Have you recorded your activities as well as your
project summary on your permanent record? Have you written your 4-H
story for the year? In your story tell how you feel about the things you
have made and the experiences you have had.

Each year your record book will add another chapter to your 4-H Club
story. You will have fun looking back at each chapter as the years go
by. Is this chapter as complete as you would like it to be?

You may want to keep a scrapbook of pictures and newspaper stories to go
along with your record book.




                   Show others what you have learned


                                Exhibits

It is fun to let others see what you have done. Your club may want to
plan a display for your families. You may want to exhibit your work at a
fair. If you do, your exhibit will be the main article you made. Be sure
your article is clean and pressed and clearly labeled so it can be
returned to you.


                          Give a demonstration

A demonstration means “to show someone else how to do something.” Select
one small subject for your demonstration. Avoid one that has too many
parts or details. Here are some suggestions:

  How to sew on a button
  How to make a pocket
  How to shine your shoes
  How to thread a needle
  How to thread a sewing machine
  How to make a scarf
  How to make washcloth slippers
  How to make a mitered corner
  How to make a hem
  How to make gathers
  How to make a sash for an apron
  How to make a skirt band
  How to make a hemmed placket

Because everything you use for sewing is small, you will need to make
your samples large. Use contrasting thread, large stitches, and make
large buttons so the audience can see what you are doing.




                  Are you ready for the next project?


  1. Have you kept your shoes clean and shining?
  2. Have you studied and improved your health habits?
  3. Have you sewed buttons on family clothing?
  4. Have you kept your record book up to date?
  5. Have you made two or more articles?


Keep this bulletin. You will need it for your next project. When you
have completed all the 4-H clothing projects, you will have a complete
sewing book.




                        OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY


    [Illustration: OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY, COOPERATIVE EXTENSION
    SERVICE]

                          SERVES EVERY FAMILY

   County, State, and Federal governments cooperate with Oregon State
    University to make the latest information available to everyone.


—Homemaking and Consumer Information

—4-H Club and Other Youth Education

—Community Development

—Agricultural Production and Marketing

—Development, Use, and Conservation of Natural Resources

—Marketing and Use of Agricultural and Forest Products


4-H Club Work is the Youth Education Program of the Cooperative
Extension Service; 5,500 Volunteer Adult Leaders and 1,500 Junior
Leaders guide 35,000 4-H members in 4,200 clubs in every county and city
in Oregon.


  Cooperative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, F. E.
  Price, director. Oregon State University and the United States
  Department of Agriculture cooperating. Printed and distributed in
  furtherance of Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914.

                                                  6M—Reprinted May 1964.




                          Transcriber’s Notes


—Silently corrected a few typos.

—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
  is public-domain in the country of publication.

—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
  _underscores_.







End of Project Gutenberg's It's Fun to Sew Aprons and Skirts, by Anonymous