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                          Transcriber’s Notes

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[Illustration:  _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._
  JAPANESE.]




                        +THE JAPAN EXPEDITION+

                                 JAPAN

                                  AND

                           AROUND THE WORLD

                             AN ACCOUNT OF

                  THREE VISITS TO THE JAPANESE EMPIRE

                           WITH SKETCHES OF

          MADEIRA, ST. HELENA, CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, MAURITIUS,
                CEYLON, SINGAPORE, CHINA, AND LOO-CHOO

                           BY J. W. SPALDING
  OF THE U. S. STEAM-FRIGATE MISSISSIPPI, FLAG SHIP OF THE EXPEDITION

                   WITH EIGHT ILLUSTRATIONS IN TINT

                   [Illustration: publishers device]

                               REDFIELD
                      34 BEEKMAN STREET, NEW YORK
                                 1855.




       Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855,
                          BY J. S. REDFIELD,

   in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States,
             in and for the Southern District of New York.


                    SAVAGE & McCREA, STEREOTYPERS,
                       13 Chambers Street, N. Y.




PREFACE.


The kindness and courtesy of that fine officer and estimable gentleman,
Commander Sydney Smith Lee, in conferring upon the writer a position
on the ship under his command, gave him the opportunity of seeing the
“wonders of the world abroad,” in the Japan Expedition.

The following pages do not profess to be a history of Japan, of which
there are already a number extant, but only embody observations of
what came under notice, in a cruise of nearly two and a half years.
They do not pretend to invariable accuracy, the writer having kept no
journal, and having had to depend on scattered memoranda, jottings down
to friends, and to memory. He has endeavored to tell the tale of his
travels, as his eyes told it to him.

He has indulged in no adjectives about the ocean, because he believes
that there has been more deliberate nonsense written upon it, than upon
any other thing in all Nature.

 RICHMOND, VA., 1855.




CONTENTS.


 CHAPTER I.

 Leave the United States—“Old Ironsides” Mississippi—A
 Man-of-War at Night—Gulf Stream—Music—First Foreign Land—The
 Washerwomen—Funchal—Its Harbor—Cavalleros—The Wine—A
 Consul—_Nossa Senhora do Monte_—The Coral—A Hospital—A
 Prison—Dago Pauperism—Donna Clementina—Good-by, Madeira       PAGE 8


 CHAPTER II.

 At Sea again—The Canaries—The “Trades,” Incipient and
 Real—Man-of-War Existence—Drills—Running down the
 “Trades”—Small-Pox—Christmas that was not Christmas—First
 General Order issued—Under Steam again—Man Overboard—Crossing
 the Line—Arrival at the Ocean-Prison—St. Helena—Hot
 January—Reverberation—Slavers—James’ Town—A View from a
 Summit—Tomb of the Great Emperor—Jonathan—To Longwood—The New
 House—Plantation House—A Bust of Napoleon—Departure from St. Helena
                                                                      27


 CHAPTER III.

 Cape of Good Hope—Shadows—Cape Town—Sights in the Street—Drive
 to Constantia—The Wine—Kaffir War—Botanical—Leave Cape Town—The
 Birkenhead—Cattle at Sea—Anti-Scorbutic—St. Valentine’s Day, and
 the “Styx”—The Indian Ocean                                         45


 CHAPTER IV.

 Isle of France—John Bull under a Torrid Sun—Port Louis and
 its Bazar—Different Races and Religions—In the Country at
 Mauritius—John Chinaman—Pamplemouses—Paul and Virginia—A Botanical
 Garden—Reality as well as Romance—Hurricanes—History of the
 Island—The “22d”—Fruits—Leave Mauritius—Difference of Time       56




 CHAPTER V.

 “Light, Ho!”—Ceylon’s Spicy Breezes, and Sir John Mandeville—Point
 de Galle—Ceylonese Troops—d’honies—The Natives—Walled
 Town—Sandal Shoon and Mohammedan Temple and School—Greek Slaves
 in Bronze—Hirsute and Citronella—Priessnitz’ Doings—Pigeon
 Express—Ceylon Historically—A Siamese Captain—Departure from
 Point de Galle—Bay of Bengal—Straits of Malacca—Pulo-Penang—The
 Cleopatra—Letters—Anchor at Singapore—Malay Boats—The East
 by Anticipation—Junks—Gong-Beating—The Esplanade—Malay
 Houses—Sago—Hospitals—Joss-House—Prison—Rajah of Johore—Leave
 Singapore—First of April—Intense Heat—Cathay—Macao-Hong
 Kong—Salute of Welcome—Oriental Salute                             64


 CHAPTER VI.

 Macao—The _Donna Maria_—Cathedrals and Forts—Camoens—An English
 Missionary—Death of the Governor—Fast and Tanka Boats—Bocca
 Tigris—Clipper-Ships and Junks—Chartering a Tender—First of
 May—The Yang-tse-kiang—Agriculture and the Chinese—Shanghai and the
 Bund—The Missionaries—Sing-Song—Gambling—Dead Beggars—Nautical
 Dramatics—The Shanghae Races—Shifting the Flag—Supply Ashore—Wreck
 of a Junk—Bring the Crew of the Junk Aboard—Left for Loo-Choo      87


 CHAPTER VII.

 Great Loo-Choo Island—General Orders—Outer Door
 of the Hermetic Empire—Historic Outline of the
 Loo-Choo Islands—Approach to them—Loo-Chooan
 Simplicity—Dress—Bettelheim—Napa—Language—Foreign
 Graves—Horse-Portage—The Prince Regent—To
 Sheudi—Feast—International Sentiment—Sheudi-Cyclopean Masonry—“Old
 Napa”—Bonin Group—Return to Napa—First Visit to Japan—“_The_
 Fourth” on the Sea—A Meteor                                        100


 CHAPTER VIII.

 Cipango—Japan an “Unknown Land”—Works on Japan-Kœmpfer—Japanese
 Mythology—Geography—History—Japanese “John Doe”—Napoleon No. III.
 of the Mongols—Kublai-Khan—European Intercourse—English Views about
 the Opening of Japan                                                132


 CHAPTER IX.

 Sounding-Spars—_Foogee Yama_—Entrance to the Bay
 of Yedo—Precautionary Measures—Uraga—Troops—“Old
 Hundred”—Sounding—Yezimon—Gorihama—_The_
 Landing—Joust or Tourney—Audience—President’s
 Letter—Anecdotal—Fortifications—Sounding—Japanese
 Presents—Costume—Junks—Leave Japan—A Burial at Sea—A
 Cyclone—Loo-Choo                                                   143


 CHAPTER X.

 China—The Rebellion—Hong Hospitality—Blenheim
 Reach—Torrid—Consular Courts—Canton—Feast of the
 Lanterns—Howqua’s Garden—Sallie Baboos—Cum-sing-Moon—Death
 of an Officer—Opium Hulks—The Traffic—Effects of Opium—Its
 Sale—Smuggling—Emperor of Japan Dead—Loss of Boat’s Crew of
 the Plymouth—The American Commissioner—Around the Walls of
 Canton—Chance for a Wife—Temple of Honan—Hong Kong               176


 CHAPTER XI.

 Leave China for Second Visit to Japan—Formosa—Napa-Keang—A
 Refugee not a Koszta—Proselyting—Dr. Bettelheim and a Loo-Chooan
 Sangrado—Coal Dépôt—Sheudi—Cumshaws—Off for the Bay of
 Yedo—Dangerous Navigation—Snow—Macedonian Ashore Foogee
 Yama—Bay of Yedo—Where to Negotiate—22d of February—Japanese
 Boats—Visiters—Japanese at Dinner—Swords—Aversion to the
 Cross—The Landing—The Commissioners—The Audience—Answer
 to the President’s Letter—A Japanese Repast—Their
 Troops—“T’su-bi-ki”—Coal—A Christian Burial in
 Japan—American Presents—An Ericsson Two Centuries Ago—A
 Chaplain—Negotiations—Japanese Presents—Athletes—Entertainment of
 Japanese Commissioners—Signing of the Treaty—Yezimon—Attempt to
 reach Yedo—The “Happy Despatch”—Emperor in Disguise—Leave Bay of
 Yedo for Simoda                                                     204


 CHAPTER XII.

 Simoda or Lower Field—Surveying—Japanese
 Spies—Temples—Sintooism—Another Pilgrim’s Progress—A Night’s
 Lodging—Bargaining—Japanese Women—Indiscriminate Bathing—Turtle
 Soup—An Adventure—Buddhist Temple—Midnight Visiters—In a
 Cage—Japanese Epistolarians—A Great Secret—Defences—Foogee Yama
                                                                     264


 CHAPTER XIII.

 Departure for Hakodadi—Ohosima—Printing at Sea—Straits
 of Sangar—Arrive at Hakodadi—Magnificent Bay—The City—A
 Stampede—Interview with the Authorities—Arranging the
 Currency—Purchasing—A Large Temple—Bonzes—Worshipping—Order
 of the Blind—A View from Hakodadi Yama—A Lion Playing
 Painter—Ni! Ni!—A Fort—Burials from the Vandalia—Japanese
 and Ethiopics—Arrival of Functionaries—Characteristic
 Communications—Hakodadi Eggs—Leave Hakodadi—Fog                  292


 CHAPTER XIV.

 Foogee—Return to Simoda—Additional Regulations—Veneration for
 Iyeyas—The Dutch at Desima—Japanese Princes and Mercantile
 Pursuits—Russia a Bugbear—The Currency Question—The Monetary
 System of Japan—Buoys—Sample of Coal—Stones for the Washington
 Monument—Taste for Music—Things by Lottery—Japanese Lacquer and
 Porcelain—Tea—Japanese Game of Chess, or “Sho-ho-ye”—A Second
 Robinson Crusoe—Leave Japan for China—Macedonian to Keelong
 and Manilla—Island of Oo—A Strange sail acting strangely—In
 Napa Roadstead—Man Deservedly killed—His Highness the
 Prince-Regent—Russian Admiral Pontiatine—Sermons on Shipboard—The
 Status of Loo-Choo—Compact with Loo-Choo—Boom-a-Laddying with a
 Broad Pennant—Great Pomp in our Institutions—Farewell to Loo-Choo
                                                                     312


 CHAPTER XV.

 Hong Kong Again—Letters—The Intestine Troubles—Triangulating
 between Hong-Kong, Macao, and Whampoa—The Rebels—Chinese
 Fighting—An Emperor’s Proclamation—Preparations for the
 Departure of the American Opperbevelhebber—Daybook and Ledger
 Epistolarians—A Title—Protection—A Jollyboat Steamer—Erudition
 about Columbus, De Gama, and Others—A Letter from His Excellency
 Perry—Syce Silver Service—More Mercantile Epistolarians and
 Parvenuism—No Treaty of Commerce with Japan—Name Great among
 the Heathen—Departure of Opperbevelhebber in the English
 Mail-Steamer—Mississippi’s Third Visit to Japan—The Last of the
 “Porpoise”—Arrive at Simoda again—Official Intercourse of Captain
 Lee with the Authorities—Courtesies—Its-evoos and a Revolver—The
 Ship Ho-o-maro—Cotton Cloths distributed—Chances of a Trade with
 Japan—Final Departure from the Country—Supplemental—Exchange of
 Ratifications of the Treaty—Simoda after an Earthquake—Loss of the
 Russian Frigate Diana—The Inexorable Laws of Japan—English and
 French at Nangasaki—The Cruise of the Mississippi around the World
                                                                     345


 APPENDIX                                                            363




                                  THE

                           JAPAN EXPEDITION.




CHAPTER I.


The cruel treatment which had long been practised by that singular
and secluded people, the Japanese, toward American whalers who were
thrown by the misfortune of shipwreck upon their coasts, the incentive
of mercantile cupidity, and the urgency of personal ambition, induced
the government of the United States, in 1852, to project an expedition
to Japan, to obtain some assurance from the government of the country
against a continuance or repetition of the inhospitality and cruelty
inflicted upon our unfortunate citizens, and, if possible, to open the
sources of trade. The East India squadron was accordingly augmented for
this purpose, and Commodore Matthew Calbraith Perry was invested with
the command, and charged with the performance of the duty.

After almost conjugating delay in all its moods and tenses, induced by
the failure of the boilers of the unfortunate “Princeton,” and other
causes, his flag-ship was ready for sea in November, 1852; and on
the 24th of this month and year, with a desire to visit the hermetic
empire, whetted by reading the Dutch historians, I found myself, as
commander’s clerk, on board of her. At mid-day we had dropped, not
below the “kirk or hill,” but below the hospital at Norfolk, and night
found us ploughing deeply the ocean in the direction of Madeira; and
before a very late hour the gleams from the Cape Henry lighthouse
disappeared altogether.

The ship was the old steam-frigate “Mississippi,” which, as her name
is a synonyme for the “father of waters,” may be termed the father of
our war-steamers, having been the consort of the pioneer ship, the
Missouri, destroyed by fire on her first cruise, under the rock of
Gibraltar. She had been engaged unremittingly since she first slid from
her ways. The power of her engines had pulled from a reef in the Gulf a
large ship, and saved to the country the fine frigate Cumberland. The
shot and shell from one of her sixty-eights, in the naval battery at
Vera Cruz, had contributed to the downfall of the castle of San Juan.
She had lain at her anchor near the site of once classic Athens, and
in full view of what now remains of the once great city of Hannibal.
She had once sought shelter from a Levanter near Brundusium that was,
with its Appian way. Her paddle-wheels churning up the water of the
Black sea, announced the first appearance of an American man-of-war in
that stormy water; and on her decks, surrounded by his late fellows in
exile, Kossuth, fresh from the damp of his Kutahia prison, addressed
the seething populace around in the harbor of Marseilles, with a fervor
and eloquence which almost extenuated so indefensible a violation of
the national hospitality which our nation was then extending him; and
now the old Mississippi was leaving her own country, bound to the other
side of the great globe, bearing the hopes of many, and embarked in a
mission which might be successful—which might, perhaps, come to naught.

I said she ploughed deeply on getting beyond the Capes, because, with
the considerate intelligence and humanity which preside over our naval
affairs, sending boxes of guns to sea with national names, bringing
about such sad losses as those of the Albany and the Porpoise, the
Mississippi, designed by her constructor to draw eighteen feet of
water, and to carry four hundred and fifty tons of coal, has her
bunkers enlarged to the capacity of six hundred tons, additional lines
of copper put upon her, and goes out drawing twenty-one feet, her
guards but a short distance from the water. In this state we left the
United States; her decks not yet cleared of the stores hastily put
aboard for the different messes; the lengthened visages of sad people
all around, thinking whether they had omitted anything in their notes
of last adieu sent back by the Pilot; the mustering and stationing of
a new crew at their division and fire quarters; the making everything
ready for sea, all presented such a novel scene to one who was on a
man-of-war underway for the first time, that he was too much engrossed
in observing, to tell his “native land good-night,” turning to do
which, he found that it had “faded,” not over the “waters blue,” but
behind an expanse of dull slate-colored ocean, which the heavy striking
of our deeply-immersed paddles was slowly and drowsily disturbing.
There was none of the graceful undulatory motion, and bellying out of
the great white canvass of the sailing-ship, which writers of much
imagination and nautical turn of mind, delight so much to sing about.
It was only the sturdy prose of a warlike old steamer belching from the
jaws of her great funnel columns of thick black smoke, which separated
at her mainmast, or rolled away in dense masses astern, perversely
holding on her way to the port of her destination. The “loguey” motion
of the ship, while it kept her decks wet from the swashing of a cross
sea over her head rail, at least had the advantage to a landsman of
enabling him to get on his “sea-legs” all the sooner.

The scene at night on a man-of-war, is one full of interest to him who
sees it for the first time. The decks, busily thronged during the day
by the men in the performance of their duties, at an early hour of
the night, with the exception of the watch, are apparently deserted;
a number equal to the population of a small village, crowded close
together, swing in their pendent beds in oblivious sleep, which the
exertions of the day makes more profound, leaving nothing to disturb
the quiet of the vessel, save the half-hour striking of the ship’s
bell, and the quick responses of the different look-outs assuming their
watchfulness, or the drumming of the wheels as they send the yesty
water along the side.

In a few days we crossed that great liquid fortification of our
coast—the Gulf-stream—when the temperature became greatly moderated,
our stoves were taken down, the cloudy skies that we had had
disappeared, and we hailed the sun. The water had changed from 41° to
71°, the sun came up magnificently from the ocean, and the air felt
like a balmy spring morning; away off in the southeast floated piles
of clouds like inverted illuminated pearl-shells, and for the first
time since leaving Norfolk, we were enabled to look upon the _deep_
blue sea, and the blue deep sea. Then, too, our fine band, composed of
twenty-three brass and reed instruments, discoursed its most pleasant
strains for the first time since we had been out, under the leadership
of a talented old Italian musician—the only man I ever saw who, with a
nice “ear for music,” kept both of his auriculars continually stopped
with wool.

The cry of “Land, ho!” on the evening of the 11th of December,
announced our vicinity to Madeira, after a rough and lonely passage
from the United States of eighteen days. The weather proving rough,
we wore ship and stood off during the night, and early in the morning
again stood for the island, and it was not long before we were running
under the lee of its northern side. Madeira at a distance, wrapped
in its hazy robe of blue, presents the appearance of a huge monster
reposing on the water, but running in under the land, the aspect is
far more attractive. Being the first foreign land on which my eyes had
ever rested, I gazed with increasing pleasure on the parti-colored
soil, on the graceful and silvery cascades precipitating themselves
down its steep shores, presenting the appearance of tapering spires
of churches, while nestling here and there on the cliffs, amid thick
verdure, were the happy-looking quintas and farmhouses. Toward evening,
leaving the singular formed rocks “Las Desertas” on our left, we
rounded the northeasternmost point of the island, and Funchal, in
its terraced beauty, came in full view. We fired a gun and hoisted a
jack for a pilot, but we were permitted to approach without the aid
of that functionary. It being Sunday, perhaps they did not officiate
on that day. Just before sundown we came to in the harbor, near the
Pontinha, and immediately on anchoring were boarded by the Portuguese
health-officer, who, finding we had no contagious disease aboard,
granted us _pratique_. The second promptest visiters to welcome us
were the washerwomen, who are all eager for the possession of the
soiled linen, at the same time evincing a wonder of recognition and
recollection perfectly satisfactory to themselves, but not at all
convincing to anybody else. One old shrivelled dame of a laundress
insisted that I had visited the island before, and pretended to adhere
to the opinion with the tenacity of Dolly, in Oliver Twist, when she
called upon the good bystanders to make her brother go home. This
was old Madam Yesus, and, as my poor battered garments subsequently
proved, she washed “not wisely, but too well.” They were eminently
communicative on general topics, told us how “mucher pauvre” they
were, gave us the first news of the approaching famine, and to men who
had been tumbling about the ocean for over half a month, the unsavory
intelligence that wine, which but a short time before could be bought
for forty cents per bottle, could now only be obtained for a dollar.

Funchal, from the water, presents a very attractive appearance to the
traveller who sees it for the first time. I don’t know when I have
been more impressed with the beauty of any scene, than when from the
deck of our ship, with a delicious atmosphere that obliterated all
recollection of the month being December, a setting sun more keenly
defining and causing to loom up each object, I looked upon its bright
houses, made more so by the deep red of their tiles, as they rose in a
terraced crescent, one above another, the convent of Santa Clara, the
deep-hued verdure that filled up the interstices of the picture, the
Loo Rock fort, and the cathedral in the foreground, with just enough
of time-stain on its towers to make more venerable its front, and
the tortuous paved road, running up the hills like an immense, stony
serpent, terminating at the church of our “Lady of the Mount,” elevated
nineteen hundred feet above the sea; and the vineyards in the distance.

Being an open roadstead, with the wind from a certain direction a
very heavy sea tumbles into the harbor, and there is at all times a
considerable surf breaking on the beach. On going ashore you have
to employ Portuguese surf-boats, which are much better constructed
for purposes of landing than our own. On either side, not far from
the keel, they have projecting pieces resembling the side-fins of a
dolphin, which gives them much steadiness in a sea-way, while head
and stern they have perpendicular handles as it were. As they near
the beach, one of the boatmen jumps over into the water, and, seizing
the piece at the prow, keeps the boat head on, when the succeeding
swell sets her high, if not dry, upon the sand, and you are ashore.
Your way thither may only be delayed a short time, by the officer
contrabandista, who, pulling alongside, touches his hat, and proceeds,
by an inspection of your boat, to see whether his aquatic countrymen
are not attempting to smuggle ashore such things as soap and tobacco,
which his most gracious sovereign of Portugal has been pleased to
reserve as a government monopoly. When the weather is rather rough, the
customary place of landing is the Pontinha, a steep rock terminating
an arched causeway, or kind of breakwater, from which the coal is
usually embarked for the steamers stopping at the island. The scene
presented, or the horrible clamor that salutes your ears, is not
particularly calculated to prolong the pleasant illusion which the
more distant sight of the place gave you. You no sooner put your
foot on the stone stairs than your winding way of ascent is beset by
innumerable lazzaroni most offensive in habit and appearance, whose
rabid importunities for alms will not permit you to say them nay. Once
through this crowd of “dago” pauperism—the most squalid and effete
of all pauperism, your movements on the causeway are impeded by the
boisterous calls of the Borro Querros, with their horses already
saddled and bridled for “gentlemin” to ride. The bellowing guttural of
one fellow provokes your attention to his steed, in whose praises he is
loud, having gotten which, he digs him in flank, and dashes off over
the stony pavement, to show you his paces. Your charger selected (I had
a weakness in the matter of a fine bay myself,) the din ceases. Our
party, consisting of five or six well mounted, determined on a gallop
to the “Petite Coral,” calling on the polite and hospitable consul on
our way thither. One peculiarity strikes you on starting, that is, that
your dago friend, of whom you obtained your charger, acts as a kind
of equerry during your ride, and the better to enable him to accompany
you, when you are inclined to give your horse the rein, he seizes that
animal by the tail with one hand, keeping off the flies with a wisp in
the other, or uses it as an accelerator on his haunches, holding on
meanwhile with a grip which the Kirk Alloway witches would have envied
when they brought about that _finale_ to “poor Maggy.”

The streets through which we rode were quite narrow, and enclosed by
balconied houses of two stories, or stuccoed garden walls, over which
the graceful banana leaf bent, or a cornice of beautiful running
flowers was to be seen. From the nearly closed casement pretty dark
eyes peeped down upon you, pretty I fear, because scarcely any other
features were visible. The native women we met in the street walked
closely veiled, which none who met them desired to have done away
with, if a truant zephyr once gave a sight of their swarthy faces.
Your attention is attracted by the rather picturesque costume of the
natives, which consists of a loose shirt drawn at the waist, knee
breeches made full, _white_ boots which are regularly chalked, and
on the summit of their cranium they wear a cap of cloth bearing an
identical resemblance to an apothecary’s glass funnel inverted. The
manner in which the peasants retain these head coverings in their
place, has been as perplexing to strangers, as how the apple got
inside the dumpling was to England’s sovereign, but considering the
population, it would not be uncharitable to conclude that the tension
is induced by the vacuum in the noddles they surmount, on the principle
of the “sucker” with which philosophic juveniles raise a brick. The
continued “Boo-ah” resounding in the streets, as the driver of the
sleds with casks upon them spurs up the two poor little oxen, whom a
small boy leads with a string from the horn, soon convinces you that
you are in the land of the elevating “Tinta,” and generous “Serchal.”
Should the sled drag heavily over the stones, the small boy throws
down in front of it a wetted cloth, passing over which, the runner is
lubricated.

On reaching the residence of the American consul, we dismounted and
partook of a lunch, which his hospitality invariably provides for his
visiting countrymen. It is unnecessary to tell with what gusto, men who
eighteen days before were gathered around a stove in their own land,
were now in the genial air of Madeira, windows open, and perfume coming
in all around from beautiful plants, partook of the rich treat of
guavas, the small banana, and the Mandarin orange just plucked from the
tree that thrust itself in the casement. The snack over, we ascended to
the consul’s observatory; a fine glass, mounted on a tripod, swept the
offing and anchorage, giving every object much nearness. Our old ship
lying stately at her anchors, was just saluting with twenty-one guns
the Portuguese flag floating at her fore, which was promptly returned
by the fort on Loo Rock. Around and below us were patches of green-vine
and trellis, amid an expanse of red tile roofs, on many of which were
placed wine-casks that they might sweeten in the sun. We then descended
to the wine-houses, where butt after butt of large dimensions, reached
by foot ladders, of Tinta and Serchal, and “Navy,” told how the
delightful grape of the island had swelled into fullness, and then been
crushed into wine. Ah! Clarence, thou shouldst have lived till now.

We mounted and started for le Petite Coral, by the way of the church
_Nossa Senhora do Monte_. The angle of ascent of the road is over
twenty degrees, but the style of going up is usually to give your
horse his head and his rider’s heel, and if like Putnam’s he dashes
up, racketing it over the stones, and sending back fire from his
heels, why it’s the way. Being bantered for a dash up by one of my
messmates, and my friend the Borro Querro in the rear not being a party
thereto, I regret to remark, that the last I saw of that respected
individual after the start, he was engaged in performing some very
sudden gyrations proximate to the roadside hedge. However, a glass
of the country wine, on his joining me at the blowing place, about
half-way up, enabled me to make my entire peace with him for the
suddenness of my leaving. The way up was lined with vines and dogs,
peasant girls and chapels, mendicants and donkeys, which would knock
Mr. Laurence Sterne’s sentimental blubber all in the head. The clatter
of the approaching hoofs caused the dark browed senoritas to “come
unto the window,” but the horses appeared to hurry on the faster for
their presence. The descent of this mountain is generally made at
a rapid pace, on a rude sled, two boys riding behind and giving it
proper direction. The mode of movement about the streets, is, if a
foreigner and invalid, in a hammock suspended from a pole, and borne
on the shoulders of two men, steadying themselves as they walk with
quarter-staffs; if a native gentleman in a canopied sled drawn by
unsightly oxen, which _quick_ mode of movement will convey a very good
idea of the enterprise of the people who employ it.

But we were on the way to the Church of the Lady of the Mount. It was
not very long before we dismounted at the foot of the long flight of
discolored stone steps that led to its front. On reaching the terrace
we looked down on the view below us. The town had dwindled into a
white-washed amphitheatre; the ships were not quite as much changed
as the objects to the sight of Edgar from the cliffs of Dover, but
appeared greatly reduced in proportion. I could scarcely believe that
the Mississippi, riding at her anchors in the bay, was the floating
home of over three hundred human beings!

On entering the church, we were met at the door by a pussy snuff-taking
priest, whose besmeared outer garment looked as if it would have
been all the better for the application of a cake of brown soap in
connection with some of the clear water which coursed down the mountain
past his sanctuary. The interior of the edifice displayed the most
garish taste, and with its sickening amount of gilding, was embellished
in the most tawdry manner. There was the customary proportion of
relics, and the paintings around looked very old. Our stay was short,
and after leaving a small sum for our footing, as Jack would say, we
returned to our steeds, leaving the wax figure of the lady patroness
of the island in a glass case in the rear, looking as demure and as
indifferent to our presence as when we entered. The whilom legends of
the devout tell of her, at a time when breadstuffs were scarce, having
left her crystal enclosure and gone to hurry on cargoes of grain to
Funchal, which, like Buckingham, were “on the sea.”

The descent to the Coral—a deep mountain gorge of singular and
circular formation—is by a narrow shelf of a road cut in the face of a
precipitous hill, and running in inclined planes. One does not entirely
fancy the task of going down; but then the horses are rough-shod,
with reference to such places, are remarkably sure footed, and move
instinctively with much caution. On getting to the bottom, the road by
which we had just come looked like a mere thread-line on the face of
the cliff that hung over us. Its depth is some sixteen hundred feet,
and you look up to the azure above you as from an immense pit. We
stopped at a small mill situated at the lowest point of the Coral, to
give our horses a little time to blow, and our borro querros a little
country wine, which was likewise patronized by ourselves. I noticed
around clumps of pines planted for fuel, and a number of exquisite
flowers growing spontaneously. We ascended from the Coral by a road
equally as narrow and precipitous as the one by which we had gone
down, only proving less clear; a large rock which had caved from the
bank nearly barricaded the path, and on reaching it my horse, whose
reputation I subsequently ascertained to be one for shying, came quite
near treating himself and rider to a Tarpean fate. On reaching the top,
we were refreshed by a breeze redolent with perfume, and turned into
a road enclosed on either side by hedges of bona fide geranium. It is
feeding on this sweet plant that imparts to the meat of the native
cattle, when eaten, a peculiar flavor; and the honey of the bee who
gathers his sweets from it, is strongly impregnated with its pleasant
odor. No wonder that the attenuated invalid should resort to thee,
beautiful Madeira, to revive his drooping spirits. We returned to the
city in the evening, by a road running past pleasant gardens, and by a
bridge that spans the canal which receives the quickly-swollen mountain
streams, and put ourselves in charge of mine host of Guilletti’s.

The next day I landed near the governmental house, where was staying
as a guest the invalided empress mother of Brazil, who had, with a
broken constitution, gone to Madeira, since to die. I visited the
charitable hospital of the place, which fronts on the grand plaza. No
sight can be more loathsome than the one to be seen in the wards of a
Portuguese hospital, unless it be that of the dead mendicants that you
pass in the streets of some of the cities of China. The most terrible
ailments that flesh is heir to, and the greatest suffering that “age,
ache, and penury, can lay on nature,” were present all around. And then
there were others in whom the flame of life, after flickering lowly,
had just gone out. I was very willing to get away from the apartment,
and after descending to a dimly-lighted chapel below, where a solitary
priest was engaged in prayer for the repose of the dead and dying
above, and glancing at its characteristic decorations, I left the
building. The edifice itself is quite an extended one, though it has no
architectural beauty to attract attention. Over its main entrance, cut
elaborately in a massive block of stone, are the royal arms of Portugal.

My next place of visit was to the local prison, through which I was
accompanied by a sergeant. The inmates, who were composed of both
sexes, confined for offences of smuggling a bar of soap, up to those
of a graver character, are allowed to indulge in any handiwork for
which they are competent, and the product of their hands, tied on
the ends of poles, is thrust through their prison-windows into the
street, of which they solicit the purchase by the passer-by. But not
even in the prisons are you exempt from the “_por sua suade_”—the
interminable solicitation for alms; and the distance which the prisoner
may be from you is no barrier, as he is provided with a small car
which, with a pole, he can push to his outer grating, and as quickly
withdraw. I can mention a circumstance to show with what little sense
of degradation or hesitancy this thing of alms-asking is indulged in by
a dago population. I was sitting in front of the consul’s, conversing
with some friends, when quite a genteel and tidily-dressed person,
rejoicing in a much better pair of patent-leathers than I could muster,
approached us and solicited alms, and was quite pertinacious in his
request. I had heard of the Spanish beggars on horseback, who solicited
aid of pedestrians on the ground that they had more need of assistance
than other people because they had to support their beast as well as
themselves, but I had never met with anything quite as deliberate until
I encountered my patent-leather-shoe friend at Madeira.

And now we have been at Funchal two days, and the third, on which we
are to take our departure for St. Helena, has arrived. In taking leave
of the pleasant isle of vine and bower, the writer regrets that he can
not, for the benefit of those of a more sentimental mood than himself,
follow the example of others, and say something about the Santa Clara
convent, that stands embosomed by deep foliage on the hill, and tell
in touching tones about the fair and unhappy Donna Clementina, who,
besides being admired because Heaven had vouchsafed to her a visage
blonde, when those around were brunette, was also loved for other
qualities, for which _vide_ her devotees—how she “would be a nun,” and
how she “wouldn’t be a nun;” and how some “young Lochinvar,” who they
say came “out of the west,” once wished to do something both romantic
and desperate, and rescue the fair lady from the holy precincts where,
it was represented, she was most unwillingly detained; but, with Mr.
Aminadab Sleek, in the play, “we are really afraid we can’t.”

Good-by, Madeira, whose tropical beauty was so fresh to me, and the
picture of whose loveliness will be ever in mind.

  “Long, long be my heart with such memories filled.”




CHAPTER II.


On the afternoon of the 15th of December, all hands being on board,
with coal dust, and wine for distinguished functionaries in the U. S.
on our decks, an orange and banana smell over the ship, and six little
Madeira bullocks, who, upon being hoisted in by the horns, no sooner
reached the decks, than they indulged in a series of cavortings, to the
no small amusement of the old shell-back denizens of the forecastle,
we lifted anchor, and steamed away from Funchal, to the south. At
nightfall Madeira’s lines of green, and basalt, and red soil, were lost
to view.

We were now entering on the longest run we anticipated making during
the cruise. On the second morning out at an early hour we made Palma,
one of the westernmost of the Canary islands. When the sun came up from
behind it, defining its sharp peaks and irradiating the whole outline
of the island, I had the happy consciousness that it fully compensated
me for the rupture of my matinal slumbers, necessary to get a glimpse
of it. The celebrated peak of Teneriffe was wrapped in cloud when we
passed, and I did not see it; though others with “optics sharp,” at one
time, said they discerned it in the extreme distance. We subsequently
passed in sight of the Cape de Verde islands. During the day we ran
into what is termed the incipient northeast trades, and as our coal was
not deemed sufficient for the run before us, the engines were stopped,
twenty tons of water blown from the boilers, fires extinguished,
sufficient number of the paddles removed from the wheels, which were
lashed, the large smoke stack lowered on the hurricane deck, and the
ship put under sail. Many of us thought if the Japanese could only
get a sight of the funnel as it lay in its chocks like another huge
“peace-maker” when we reached their country, they would prove quite
accessible. The spars of the Mississippi being tall, she spread a great
deal of canvass, but the wind continuing quite light we made but little
progress for several days. A whale saluted us by tapping his head
against our port guard. On the 18th we tacked ship, and on the 21st we
got the trade-winds proper, and under studding-sails ran quite well.
Life on the ocean, monotonous, nearly, at all times, was rendered more
so to us, by the transition from a steamer to a sailing ship. To study
on shipboard, or even to read with profit, as I had heard before, is
next to impossible, unless it may be with an old sea-dog to whom for
some forty years the “ocean has been a dwelling-place.” Try it, and you
will find your eyes wandering from the type, and your thoughts bolting
from the subject, like a refractory quarter-horse over a track railing.
The weekly routine of the ship was comprised in going to quarters,
morning and evening, for inspection; and once a week the whole ship’s
company are beat to general quarters, when the magazines are open, the
powder-boys busy in passing and repassing cartridge-boxes, the guns
are cast loose and worked by their crews, boarders are called away,
pikemen are posted to repel boarders, marines are stationed near them,
&c.; the master gives his orders for sail-trimmers to put stoppers on
such portions of the rigging, as an active imagination suggests must
have been shot away, and all the evolutions of an actual engagement at
sea are gone through; together with exercise at fire-quarters, when
an alarm with the ship’s bell is rung, at which sentinels are placed
at the falls of each boat, so that in an actual emergency there could
be none of the inhuman desertion and infamous flight which marked
the sad catastrophe of the “Arctic.” All of these exercises, which
increase the discipline of a crew and the efficiency of a ship, are of
course possessed of more interest to those officers who have military
duties to perform on board, than others, who are too apt to experience
the indifference of the Emerald isle native, who being informed that
the house was on fire, replied it was nothing to him, he “was only a
boarder.”

The weather we experienced in the trades was very pleasant, though it
became hot with much suddenness. Pretty white clouds trooped across the
sky like pilgrims in white, bound to Mecca. The regular waves as they
came chasing one another from the horizon, rolled the whitest caps,
and the sea was of the bluest, particularly as the lashed arms of our
wheels divided the water in their passage, and the wheel-houses keeping
off the direct rays of the sun, made it exquisitely transparent. Though
the dews at night were so heavy that the moisture would run like
rain off the awnings, yet the shadows of the big sails that had gone
to sleep from the steadiness of the wind, made deeper by the bright
moonlight and the illuminated image of the engine of our Savior’s
agony—the “southern cross”—with its twinkling stars looking down from
the sky, made one forget that the distance from the coast of Africa was
not the greatest, and that the wearing of a thick coat at night, was a
decided improvement on a thin one. Porpoises were almost in the daily
practice of thrusting their swinish nozzles upon public attention,
and innumerable graceful little flying-fish, disturbed by our passage
through the water, or chased by the dolphin, flew continually across
the waves ahead of us, like flocks of sparrows over briers. But then we
had the smallpox on board, on the person of a Portuguese boy shipped at
Funchal, and the possibility of contracting this loathsome disease, or
the possession of an arm rather sore from vaccination, did not make the
run more pleasurable.

The events of Christmas day were, that we were in 13° 23′ north
latitude, and 23° 48′ west longitude; a very pleasant repast was spread
by the ward-room, where “home with all its endearments” was drunk in
Serchal; and a poor little bird very much resembling the partridge
of our own country, was blown aboard. This little representative of
Africa’s feathery race fell a victim to the taxidermist aboard. What he
thought previous to his demise, of the day, I know not, but to me it
was not Christmas; and no mental effort could “bring back the features
that joy used to wear” when the mistletoe was hung, and the back log
placed; nor could the defunct gobbler, who lately bestrode our coop,
sole tenant, now lying in very brown state on a festive table, even
provoke the pleasant memories.

The next day, promulgated by Commodore M. C. Perry, and signed by the
then hiatus secretary of the navy, Mr. Swallow-Barn Kennedy, was read
on the quarter-deck, General Order, No. 1, which, it is said, had a
precedent in the expedition of Lieut. Wilkes, but which was as bad as
its precedent, and equally unjust, being based upon the ridiculous
premise that because a government may have claim upon your thews and
sinews, or your mental aptitude in the line of your profession, that
it likewise has property in the product of your brain, no matter in
what other way, out of your calling, it may be exercised. This order
was violated subsequently in China, in the grossest way, with the
tacit consent of the commander-in-chief who first issued it; as if
the prominent, in rule, or law, under our government were any more
exempt from its provisions, than that the humblest are not beneath its
control. I say in the grossest way, because he permitted, if he did not
personally supervise, the preparation of an account of the movements
of his squadron, for the colonial English newspapers at Hong-Kong,
in preference to our own; papers too, whose columns at other times
displayed the village squabbling, which marked the thunders, of the
“Eatanswill Gazette” in Pickwick, in response to the shafts of “The
Independent.”

The following is the order:—

  “_U. S. Steam Frigate, Mississippi_,
  “_At Sea, December 21st, 1852_.

“GENERAL ORDER, NO. 1

“In promulgating the subjoined extract from the instructions addressed
to me by the honorable secretary of the navy, and bearing date 13th
ult., I have to enjoin upon all officers and other persons attached to
the vessels under my command, or in any other way connected with the
squadron, a most rigid adherence to all the requirements of said order.

“Whatever notes or drawings may be prepared by the officers or other
persons before mentioned, whether by special order, or by their own
volition, will be endorsed by the respective parties, and transmitted
through the captain of the fleet to the commander-in-chief, who will
in due time lodge them at the navy department, from whence they may be
reclaimed as it may suit the convenience of the government.

“All arms, curiosities, and specimens of natural history, are also
to become the property of the United States, unless voluntarily
relinquished by the commander-in-chief.

  “M. C. PERRY,
  “_Commander of the U. S. Naval Forces_,
  “_Stationed in the East India, China, and Japan Seas_.”


[EXTRACT.]

“A subject of great importance to the success of the expedition, will
present itself to your mind in relation to communications to the prints
and newspapers, touching the movements of your squadron, as well as
in relation to all matters connected with the discipline and internal
regulations of the vessels composing it. You will therefore enjoin upon
all under your command to abstain from writing to friends and others
upon these subjects, the journals and private notes of the officers and
other persons in the expedition must be considered as belonging to the
government until permission be received from the navy department to
publish them.”

The effect of this order was to cause officers to decline keeping
journals, and only note down their previous conceptions and present
impressions of things and places seen, in their letters to relatives.

In 8° north of the equator we became becalmed, when the paddles were
put on and we steamed away about eight knots. Our drinking water
about this time showed a degree of _vitality_ which was not made more
agreeable by the fact that the naval regulations did not allow the
wearing of the mustache, even for straining purposes.

About ten o’clock on the last night of ’52 there was a cry from the
poop-deck of “man overboard!” when the engines were stopped, and the
life-buoys suspended from either quarter of the ship were attempted to
be gotten away, but not going quickly, nor their matchlocks igniting
from some cause, gratings were hove overboard, lights sent up in
the mizzen-top, and a metallic boat, the 2d cutter, in which went
Lieutenant Webb, and Passed Midshipman K. R. Breese, was lowered and
went in search of the unfortunate man. There was much solicitude felt
for the poor fellow by those who stood on the poop peering into the
darkness astern, eager to hear the least sound that indicated the man
still afloat, but it was scarcely shown by the scene enacted during
the absence of the boat. Up came the commodore: “What’s the bearing
of that star?—Where did that man fall from?” _Voice_:—“Show the
Commodore where the man fell from!”—man goes over to port side—“Take
care of the paint!” “How does she head?” After a lapse of fifteen or
twenty minutes the boat was heard returning, when the following was
the hail:—“Mr. Webb?”—“Sir?”—“Have you got the buoy?”—“Yes, sir.”—
“Have you got that man?” _Answer_: “Yes, sir,” which was one of much
gratification, as every one regarded him as gone. The boat it appeared,
had passed him, and having given up the search, was returning, and
would have pulled over him, but for his being discovered in time by a
bow-oarsman. He was floating without effort on the surface, although
there was considerable sea on at the time. The poor fellow upon being
taken on board was found to have swallowed a great deal of water, and
it was thought that he might die from congestion of the lungs. He
had the antithetical name of Dry, and his mind being afterward found
affected, he was sent home in a merchant-ship from the Cape of Good
Hope.

We crossed the equator on the 3d of January, in longitude 11° west, and
when the “sun came up on the left” on the morning of the 10th, right
ahead, perhaps in the very track of the Northumberland, looming sternly
up from out the ocean, like the dark high walls of an ocean-prison that
it is, we saw St. Helena. The tallest peak, that of Diana, is visible
in the clouds for a great distance. At mid-day we anchored in the
roadstead fronting James’ town, and shortly after saluted the flag of
England with twenty-one guns. At no time, during a cruise of two years
and over, did I hear any reverberation from our heavy pieces, half so
magnificent. The sound of each explosion, at first seemed to recoil
from the face of the immense rock which upreared itself in front, and
then as if gathering strength from the temporary rebuff, it broke, in
and up the wedge-shaped valley in which James’ town is situated, and
appearing for a moment to die away, again went on over gorge and peak,
tumbling, roaring, thundering in the distance, as if “Jura answered
through her misty shroud.” The salute was returned by one of the number
of forts that were looming away above us on the island.

In shore of us lay a number of sharp rakish-looking little vessels,
slavers, that had been captured by the English cruisers, on the African
station, and brought to the island to be adjudged by a local court of
admiralty; better than our system where captor and prize have to return
frequently, great distances to the United States.

The landing at St. Helena is made on a mole at one end of the small
beach that lies only immediately in front of James’ town. A few
minutes’ walk, and crossing a drawbridge, over a moat, you pass through
an embattled wall, from which some iron pieces frown down on you, by a
lofty gate, at which sentinels are always posted. On getting inside,
a triangular street made of rolled gravel is before you. On the left
are the guard quarters, the governor’s house and offices, and a public
garden; on the right a church, hotel, and the ascent to Ladder hill,
where is situated the highest fort of the place, reached by six hundred
and twenty-five steps. Right before you, running from the apex of the
triangle, is the road which leads to the spot which has made St.
Helena famous, and England infamous for ever. As you ascend this road,
you may look down on the settlements of the Chinese who have left the
flowery kingdom to dwell in this place of isolation and desolation;
also see the fine English soldier as he is being closely drilled from
company to battalion, not by duke of Cambridge, or Earl Cardigan, all
of whose bravery will not make up for want of tactical knowledge, but
by sergeants.

Our stay at the island was to be only until we could get coal enough
aboard to take us to Cape Town, and so on the following morning I
started for Longwood and the now vacant tomb of Napoleon. I was not
aware when I started on foot, that I had to walk a distance before
returning to the town, of nine miles, and that too over a road of
lava formation, and under the burning rays of a vertical sun. The
ascent, at the first, is very great. Much fagged on reaching the summit
point I sat down to rest, and surveyed the scene around. Near me on a
road-stone, his bridleless and heavily-ladened little donkey cropping
thistles not far off, in his parti-colored dress sat a Lascar quietly
discussing his cigar. On the stone which he occupied, I read “1124
distance: 1180 feet elevation.” The road in the direction in which I
was going was shut in by clumps of brushwood and some scrubby pines,
above which, far away—its ragged top currying away the bottoms of the
southeast trade-clouds which, blowing continually over the island,
ever and anon drop their genial drops on the arid earth beneath—rose
Diana’s peak hundreds of feet in air. But the view looking seaward: Sir
Joshua Reynolds said that the horizon-line of the great and wide sea in
mid-deep is one of the most striking emblems of the infinite and the
eternal to be found in all the works of the Almighty. This idea, of
all other places, arises in the mind when gazing from the eminences of
St. Helena; but then, as you look upon “the sea here, the sea there,
the sea all around,”—contrasted with the vast expanse, how small in
the imagination becomes the spot on which you stand, and how coffined
before death, must have felt the great spirit, to whom all Europe was
once a theatre,—_qui fait le tour du monde_!

From where I sat, I could see in the gorge beneath, very plainly, the
“Briers,” the home and habitation of Napoleon until Longwood could be
gotten ready for his reception. It is situated behind a naked, stony
hill, and must have been a warm abode, but Napoleon liked it for its
quaintness and solitude; preferring it to better houses in the town,
where privacy would have been impossible. The place is enclosed by low
walls and rows of the prickly pear. On resuming my tramp, I passed some
swarthy-featured, black-haired, fine-formed young women, barefooted,
and lightly clad, carrying bundles of twigs on their heads, with which
they walked, with apparently perfect indifference, notwithstanding the
steepness of road and the intense rays of the sun. I soon reached and
went by an old cottage in decay, a rusty signal-gun, a wayside inn
with an embowered doorway, and then passing through a lane of trees,
I entered upon a level road, which, in the space of three quarters of
a mile, turned in crescent to the left. Some distance below, within
this crescent, a lot of fir, cypress, and other trees, with grassy
sod, terminated a small valley which commenced in desolation from the
seaside. This spot was enclosed by a low, straggling fence, having
a kind of sentry-box at its gate, and contains the vacant tomb of
Napoleon. I descended to the place, paid the shilling entrance required
of me, and entered the enclosure. The willow-tree which so invariably
figured in all drawings of the spot, is now gone. The grave is enclosed
by a plain iron railing, and, when I saw it, covered over with an
awning. Its present appearance is that of the strong foundation of an
elongated old spring-house, lined with cement. It is eight feet deep,
having at the bottom a small recess sunk below the general level, which
received the coffin, and about five feet wide. Desirous of getting the
exact measurement of so much greatness, one of our party stretched
himself at full length in this lower deep, but its chilliness soon
made him have as little desire to continue there, as the old hero of
New Orleans had to repose after death in the sarcophagus of one of
the Cæsars, which the very considerate kindness of a commodore had
brought for him. The whole surface of the plastering down in the tomb
is covered with scarcely-legible names, or petty ambition’s trashy
verses. The same very limited aspiration is to be seen in the pages
of a register kept at the place, where the national animosities of
visiting-strangers play shuttlecock and battledore. The obstinate and
collected Englishman repeats the commonplace of Sir Walter Scott, in
wishing you to behold the spot which held him for whom the earth was
once too small, or ethically informs you, that one life being taken
constitutes murder, but that of thousands makes a hero; then comes
the mercurial Frenchman, who, after relieving himself by a great big
“_sacre_” on the English nation generally and the island jailer in
particular, says Napoleon is avenged, for Hudson Lowe “_est mort_;” or
breaks out with “_J’ai vu: J’ai maudit!_” Next comes that peripatetic
philosopher, Jonathan, who, smacking as usual of the shop, furnishes
the edifying information that he belongs to the “Mary Brown, of New
Bedford, has bin out over two years, and hain’t got but four hundred
barrils of oil; hopes to be to ‘hum’ soon; and stopping at the island,
has just come out to see Boney’s tomb!”

When the tomb contained the body of the great emperor, it was filled
to within one foot of the surface, with earth, and covered in mound
form with cement. The three slabs that closed the grave, were taken
from the kitchen hearth of the Longwood jail. A _cicerone_, in the
person of a gray-haired old negro woman, who saw both the interment and
the exhumation of the remains of Napoleon, tells you in an Ethiopic
vernacular, of the incidents of the spot; after enumerating the number
of coffins in which the body was placed, she said, “Dare, sir, laid
his head, and here was his feet.”—“He always used to drink at dat dare
spring, dare.”—“I’s seen him many a time come down dat hill dare wid
his snuff-box and one of General Bertram’s children.”—“When he used
to stop still, he’d do jest so”—folding her arms. She was also quite
minute in her mention of the “Prince de Jonnyville” in the “Belpooly.”

The spot was pointed out to me where Bertrand, Gourgaud, Las Casas,
and Marchand, erected the tent to put the body under after exhumation,
which took place amid wind and rain. All around the tomb was wet and
miry; in times of heavy rains, now, the tomb is not unfrequently filled
with water. The work of disinterment was begun after midnight, and by
seven o’clock in the morning the stones that closed the lower vault
were raised. The anvil employed by the men engaged upon the work to
keep their tools in order, sank at every blow, and the men were ankle
deep in mud. I have nothing pathetic or philosophic to add, upon the
spot;

    “Si ta tombe est vide Napoleon?
    Ton nom ne remplit il pas l’universe.”

Ascending the hill on the other side, by a winding path which led up
through a pretty garden, I stopped at the little residence of “Hutt’s
gate,” formerly occupied by General Bertrand, with his family, previous
to moving out to the building in the vicinity of Longwood. After
resting here, I footed it a mile further, to the outer entrance to the
grounds of Longwood. The prospect before me during this walk was of the
dreariest and most desolate kind, presenting the most marked contrast
to the verdure at the tomb. It was along this road that Napoleon walked
to his favorite spring, and over which his Chinese coolies carried his
water from it. After passing a dilapidated wall and gate, you enter
upon a lawn of some hundred yards, on one side of which are straggling
fir-trees, bent down in the same direction by the continual pressure
of the southeast trade-winds, which are felt at this part of the
island very strongly, and the other side was hedged by a long row of
the stately aloe. In a few minutes you are in front of a dilapidated
low building, with a small verandah in front of one of its wings, and
partly enclosed in an old stone wall. This is Longwood as it now is.
When I reached it, the place looked abandoned in the extreme, with the
exception of the cows and a scrawny donkey that browsed around, or a
solitary turkey who broke the silence with his gobble. There was the
decayed and silent guard-house and signal-tower, its halyards rotted
away and pole tottering, from which the restless bunting was for ever
telling by day to the sedulous jailer at “Plantation House” how his
great prisoner at Longwood, after the mental exhaustion of dictation,
or the fatigues of a morning walk, now slept, or that, having slept, he
was now feeding his pet fishes in the little pond in the rear of his
cell abode. This quiet was soon broken; a dirty-faced, uncombed-haired
English girl approached, and informed us that the fee for admission
to the house was two shillings—Longwood, like the grounds around the
tomb, being leased by the government to others, for the purpose of
speculating on the interest of association connected with the great
emperor. If we are the “dollar people,” can any man who has ever
visited English domain say, that they are not entitled to the name of
“shilling nation!”

The first room you enter on going into the house, is the one in which,
amid storm and rain, and when

                                  “Far along,
    From peak to peak, the rattling crags among,
    Leapt the live thunder,”

its booming reaching the now drowsy ear which was once attuned to the
roar of cannon on a hundred fields, with the ejaculation of “_tête
d’armée_” on his nearly motionless lips, died Napoleon. The head of
his bed rested against the sill of a window, from underneath which
the French have removed the stone, and placed it in the Hospital des
Invalides as a precious relic. Through the sashless opening, the sun
now streams in on the floor of a room occupied by a thrashing-machine,
and with a manger overhead; while the room in which he mostly slept,
and ate, and read, is now paved with cobble-stones, and filled with
horse-stalls. The fish-pond is dry, and the grave of his favorite horse
you can not find.

Just across the road I visited the new house of Longwood, its walls
sound, its porticoes and floors in a perfect state of preservation, and
its spacious rooms unoccupied. Napoleon visited it once, but feeling
that one jail was no less one for being better built than another,
spurned this offer of the English to conciliate him in his cage, as the
lion spurns the leavings of the jackal though he die in his den.

On my way back to James’ town, I passed in sight of the grounds and
former mansion of

  “The paltry jailer and the prying spy”—

“Plantation house”—but had no desire to visit it.

At James’ town there is a very fine bust of Napoleon, said to have
been made from a plaster cast of the face, taken after death; the
nose is much more exquisitely chiselled and beautiful than any other
representation to be seen of his face.

Before nightfall on the 11th of January, we were under way for the Cape
of Good Hope from St. Helena.

    “The fleets that sweep before the eastern blast,
    Shall hear their sea-boys hail it from the mast;
    When Victory’s Gallic column shall but rise,
    Like Pompey’s pillar, in a desert’s skies,
    The rocky isle, that holds, or held his dust,
    Shall crown the Atlantic like the hero’s bust.”




CHAPTER III.


We reached Cape Town after a run of thirteen days. On the morning of
the 24th of January we made the long, low sandhills in the vicinity
of Saldanha bay, South Africa, and continuing our run in sight of
the coast during the day, anchored after nightfall, with bright
moonlight around, in Table bay. We encountered the whole way a strong
head wind and sea, and at one time doubted whether our coal would be
sufficient to enable us to reach our port. The men were exercised at
target practice, with pistol and musket. On the 15th, the sun being
_vertical_, the friendly wish “May your _shadow_ never be less,” would
have been superfluous, as on that day the thing was impossible. As we
neared the guano islands, lying off the harbor, we were surrounded
by booby-birds and sea-gulls innumerable; the “albatross” also “did
cross,” and very large birds they were.

Cape Town, from the water, looks like a long, low, yellow
fortification. Its population is about thirty thousand, made up of
the representatives of nearly every nation. It was captured from the
Dutch by the English in 1806. Being the great stopping-place for
vessels bound round the Cape of Good Hope, or returning from Australia
and the East Indies, the occupations of the inhabitants are mostly
mercantile. The streets are wide and well laid out. They have a
number of fine churches, a botanical garden, and quite an extensive
library. High behind the town, flanked on either side by the conical
hills of the “Lion’s Rump” and “Devil’s hill,” rises that remarkable
formation, which is visible a great distance from the sea, called
_Table Mountain_, four thousand feet high, and level on the top. The
weather is nearly always unsettled, but a blow may be expected when the
inhabitants remind you that the “cloth is spread” on Table mountain,
which is suddenly covered with a thick white cloud, which curls over
the steep face of the mountain, and extends itself down it, as a deep
snow from the roof of a house when the melting begins. When this
continues, the ships in the harbor, which is a very unsafe one, look
to their moorings, and are frequently driven ashore. The day after our
arrival we were compelled to change our berth: the old Mississippi
reared and plunged at her anchors like an impatient steed endeavoring
to slip his rein, and at night the royal mail steamer Bosphorus
broke from her moorings and went ashore. We were unable to go to her
assistance because the weather had prevented our getting any coal
aboard.

[Illustration:  _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._
  CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.]

As your boat approaches the mole, you pass through large flocks of the
black gull and cormorant, and nearer the shore, groups of the pelican
are feeding. Should a southeast wind prevail when you reach the wharf,
you will scarcely be able to see the place. Dense clouds, not of dust,
but of coarse red sand, fill the streets, and are borne in fitful
eddies around the corners. It fills your eyes, if you are so rash as to
open them but for a second, your ears, nostrils, and insinuates itself
underneath every garment that you wear; you are doing the penance of
walking with gravel under your sock, although sandal-shoon be on.
The male residents who move about wear veils attached to their hats,
but to a stranger the annoyance is horrible. During the prevalence
of this wind, the houses are closed as well as they may be, but it
is insufficient to keep out the plague. In the parlor-windows of an
English hotel at which I dined, the dust had accumulated in a morning
to the thickness of velvet, and from the front of the house I saw a
Hottentot servant removing the sand piled on the pavement, as we would
a small snow-drift in our own country.

But when you can open your eyes, strange-looking people and strange
things meet them. At the hotel, you were waited upon by Bengalese
servants, with their fantastically-wound turbans of cashmere nearly the
size of a market-basket, their blue gowns reaching to the knee, tied
with red riband in front, making their waist appear just under their
arms, and moving so stealthily with their bare feet, as they came and
went, that you were not conscious of their presence. In the streets
you see the high-cheeked-bone Malay, the emaciated-looking cooley, and
the red-capped, half-naked, simial-faced Hottentot, whom the mistaken
philanthropy of English law has removed from the authority of the
Dutch boor, that they may go lower in the scale of humanity. By you
wheels some lately-arrived cockney in one of the patent safety cabs
from London, the driver perched behind, and slowly following comes a
lumbering wagon, its tents covering some large casks, it may be, drawn
by sixteen or eighteen yoke of the enormous horned oxen of this colony,
who are ever reminded of the proximity of their Hottentot driver, by
his unceasing guttural calls and the continual application of his
immense whip, whose lash, after being whirled in air an instant, he can
cause to descend with unfailing accuracy on the back of any particular
ox in his team, though he be a leader. In the windows of the stores you
notice the graceful feathers of the ostrich, and its eggs; elephants’
tusks, and those too of the wild boar left in the skull; and the skins
of the leopard and lion, remind you that you are where “Afric’s sunny,”
&c. Innumerable jargons salute your ear as you move about.

On a bright Saturday morning, a Malay, with a good coach and four very
good horses, drove a party of us out to Constantia, famous for the
making of the celebrated wine of that name. The distance from town is
about nine miles, and the road a very good one. You pass through long
rows of the pine-tree, which I saw planted for ornamental effect for
the first time, and here and there you see the native silver-tree, its
bright leaves glistening prettily in the sun. The residences on the
route are very cosy-looking, and much taste is displayed in laying off
the approaches to them. A house not long before occupied by Sir Harry
Smith, while governor of the colony, was a very attractive place.

The proprietors of the wine-producing establishments are very polite
in their receptions and show you over their places with pleasure.
We visited their brightly white-washed and steep-thatched roofed
wine-houses, in whose extended walls were seen the huge wine butts like
those of Madeira, but filled with the thicker-bodied and sweeter Pontac
and Frontenac. The wine-house of Mr. Cloete has on its front quite a
well-executed bacchanalian scene in _basso-relievo_, and was erected in
1793. The roofs of their houses are steep and smoothly thatched, which
covering is said to last for forty years, without the accident of fire,
of which they are very careful. The decorations of their grounds are
tasty, and the sire, bending outward the limbs of the oak when young,
leaves a canopied place for table and chairs in the centre of its
branches, for the son.

The mode of cultivating the grape for the production of wine at
Constantia is peculiar. They use no arbor for the support of the
vines, but sustain them, a small distance from the ground, with sticks.
When the fruit has reached maturity, the leaves are cut away to permit
its being reached by the rays of the sun, and is only plucked for
pressing when it has become nearly as sweet as a raisin; hence the
taste of the wine, its high value, and its body.

During our stay at Cape Town, the Kaffir war still continued, and on
our way back from Constantia, we drove to the little settlement of
Wynberg to take a look at the captive Kaffir chief Seyolo, whom the
English had confined in the prison at that place. We found the prisoner
in a small cell, a stalwart woolly-headed negro, not of the darkest
complexion, standing six feet one and three quarters inches high. His
dress consisted of a lit cigar, and a single blanket thrown round his
person. His wife, Niomese, with a good countenance and very small hands
and feet, was with him. In an adjoining cell was his chief counsellor
and his wife. They appeared quite cheerful and decidedly lazy. When
the unintelligent face and elongated heel of Seyolo, was considered,
it was a matter of surprise, how such a creature could have exercised
with any force the power of command, or displayed any strategic skill
to the annoyance of the English; but it was said that he had not been
anything like as troublesome to the colonists as a withered-legged
Kaffir chief named Sandilli, who having been once taken and turned
out on his parole, would be shot in obedience to the sentence of
a drum-head courtmartial, if again captured. The accounts from the
seat of hostilities, during the time we lay at Cape Town were very
unpropitious, owing to the severe fatigue and exhaustion which the
hale hearty soldiers in their illy-adapted uniform, were compelled to
undergo in bush-fighting or climbing steep places in pursuit of the
alert and fleet-footed Kaffir, while with the best protection that
could be extended to the kraals of the settlers, their cattle were
continually being driven off by the thieving enemy.

A stroll through the botanical garden remunerates one very well. The
exotics are rare and tastefully displayed, while the Fuchias and the
Cape Jasmin laden the air with sweet perfume. The wheat of the colony
is ground in steam-mills situated in the midst of the city.

Having had the good fortune to have such weather as we could coal ship
in, and also employed carpenters to build frames for the protection
of our fire-room hatches, against the water which might extinguish
our fires, should we have the misfortune to undergo one of the severe
gales that are so frequently met with in the ocean which we had to
traverse before reaching our next port, we sent our letter-bag to a
merchant-ship bound to Boston, raised anchor on the 3d of February, and
steamed away out, passing the Lion’s Rump, False Bay, and Cape Hanglip,
bound to the Isle of France, or as now called, the Mauritius. On
getting a short distance from the place we encountered a mountainous,
foamless swell, which did not break, but rolled up to a very great
height with regularity. Our ship was sluggish in the extreme, and when
we slid slowly down into the trough of the sea, the wave before and
behind us was apparently as high as our mizzen top. The colors of a
ship hoisted at her mizzen peak, but only a short way off, at times,
were entirely shut in from our view by the swell. If this sea had
only broken it would have proved the propriety of the old Dutch name
for the cape—“the Stormy cape.” In rounding the cape the fate of the
unfortunate “Birkenhead,” an English transport steamer, lost off it
some years ago by running on a sunken rock, came to mind; and we also
thought of the collected bravery of the large number of troops on board
of her. It is one thing to face death from the belching mouth of cannon
or the deadly rifle, for then a man is hurried on by the clangor and
excitement of the strife, and moves under the illusory belief that
makes more than half the soldiers of the world, that somebody else may
be killed, but that he will not. But what is to be said in praise of
the placid courage of the poor soldiers on the Birkenhead, who, with
death inevitable, not amid “the sulphurous canopy,” but death from the
yawning wave _facing them_, yet fell into rank at the roll of drum, as
if on a dress-parade, and sank into the yesty deep with the engulfed
vessel, patterns of discipline and martyrs to duty.

We ran to the eastward for some days for the purpose of getting a
favorable wind and then headed northward for our port. The weather
continued rough and disagreeable. The anti-scorbutic notions of the
commander-in-chief—although we were not a sailing vessel liable to
be out of port for any considerable length of time, but a steamer
whose necessity for coal would require short runs, caused to be put on
board of us before leaving Cape Town, twelve of the large, wide horned
cape-bullocks, and a number of the cape-sheep with tails as wide as a
dinner plate. The stalls of the larger cattle were on the forecastle
and on the quarter-deck, tied up to the halyard racks. When the ship
rolled heavily, the noise of these poor animals endeavoring to conform
to her movement, or disturbed by the men in getting at the ropes which
their large horns covered, and their continued tramping over the heads
of those below deck, was of course increasing the comfort of shipboard
hugely. Then during a rough night although cleats had been nailed on
the deck to steady them, some steer would tumble down and dislocate his
thigh, requiring the butcher’s axe to despatch him next morning. On the
port side of the “quarter-deck,” y’clepted, I believe, in the time of
Drake, the “king’s walk,” the impromptu bleating of the sheep from a
fold made by lashing oars from the breach of one gun to another, was
quite mellifluous.

If the necessity had arisen of fighting the ship, overboard would
have to go the beef-cattle: if the ship had been required to salute
a superior command met on the sea, the orders would have been given,
perhaps, as follows: “Starboard (look out for the bull) fire!” “Port
(you’ll get kicked) fire!” “Starboard (don’t hurt those sheep) fire!”
&c. The efficiency of the ship for war purposes was seriously impaired,
if not destroyed, during their presence.

Two days from port, the anti-scurvy idea still predominant, punch made
with ship’s whiskey and lime juice, was served out to the crew, but
many an old shell-back as he took his tot, looked as if he would have
preferred the ardent minus the other ingredients.

On the 14th of February we discovered a tant vessel to the windward of
us. It proved to be a steamer under sail alone, her engines out of gear
and dragging her wheels. She stood down in our direction as if desirous
of speaking us, and many expressed much surprise at our not stopping,
but all at once we had stopped, and the stranger shot across our
stern. In answer to the hail, “What ship is that?” the reply was: “Her
majesty’s steamer Styx, bound to the Mauritius; please report us under
sail.” Our stopping was involuntary, a screw of one of the “cut-offs”
to our engines having come out, which was promptly fixed with a block
of wood by one of the admirable engineers which it was the good fortune
of the Mississippi to have; so that we were ready to go ahead again in
a very few minutes. The Englishman, no doubt, was none the wiser for
the belief that we stopped in courtesy to him.

The weather just before reaching Mauritius was much smoother than it
had been; the sun now came up upon the right, and his going down in the
Indian ocean at night, was a sight most beautiful to look upon, its
whole bosom bathed in fiery floods, and way above, tower above tower,
rose in radiance and glory illuminated clouds. When our band’s best
strains were filling the ship at evening and these sights preceded
night, we could hardly realize that we were in the Indian ocean—the
ocean of squalls, calms, heavy rains, gale, storm, and hurricane.




CHAPTER IV.


About 11 o’clock on our fifteenth morning out from the Cape of Good
Hope, the southwestern end of the island of Mauritius was visible
from the masthead, and we put on all our furnaces so as to reach
Port Louis before night. On approaching the land we ran for two
hours, past highly-tilled fields encompassing the cosy houses of the
planters, sloping to the water’s edge in living green. As we neared
the small crescent on which is built the little town of Port Louis, we
were boarded by two English harbor-masters, who conducted us to our
anchorage, and assisted in mooring the ship head and stern, as the
place is too contracted for a vessel of any size to swing in. Their
costume showed the philosophy which John Bull always carries into
torrid temperatures. They were dressed in white linen roundabouts,
pants and shoes, and on their heads were wide-brimmed hats, made of the
pith of a tree and covered with white. We had gotten the ship secured
just about the time a gun from one of the forts nigh us, announced
the hour to be 8 o’clock. I sat upon the wheel-house looking at the
necklace of lights that marked the town; the moon as if moved by the
notes of our band which was playing delightfully “Katy Darling,” and
the “Old Folks at Home,” seemed to rise more rapidly, and as it came it
displayed the lofty outline of Peter Botte mountain, of Penny Magazine
memory; the tall palms that fringed the beach on the right looked more
stately and graceful in the silver light, and the scene altogether was
so enchanting, that no one who looked upon it, could keep from feeling
Bernardin-St.-Pierreish.

At daylight next morning we got a look at Port Louis. The town is not
extensive, though nestling prettily under tall volcanic hills. Its
suburbs are composed of the red-roofed huts of liberated Africans,
making long streets. In its bazar, like nearly all places in that
portion of the globe, your attention is first arrested by the
grotesque—the kaleidoscope of costume. Of course your ubiquitous
pig-tail friend “John Chinaman” is present. Here he attires himself in
dark nankeen clothes, wears his clumsy shoe without sock, twists his
plaited queue under a Manilla hat, and with his Paul Pry umbrella which
he seldom hoists, looks as much like another “John Chinaman” who passes
him, as two bricks in a house. You see the Arab with his head entirely
shorn, or the dark-haired Lascar most diminutive in loin wardrobe,
but gaudy in the vest that covers his fine-formed chest; the Parsee
clothed in his gown of white muslin, his turban and pointed shoes; the
Malayan women in very brief attire, their children strapped on their
backs, sitting on the wayside, chewing the areca-nut or the betel-leaf
that they may spit blood-red saliva, and none the better looking for
having a large ring fastened through the skin of their foreheads, or
hanging from one nostril. These people are all very graceful in their
movements. Their religions are comprised in Mohammedanism, Buddhism,
Hindoo, &c. They number some six thousand of the population of the
place.

I had a pleasant drive into the country, over fine English roads,
Macadamized with volcanic stone by chain gangs. Our fancy-turbaned
Lascar driver kept up the while a noise like that of our
swamp-sparrows, to encourage his horses. We saw the large fields of
sugar-cane, rustling in their deep green, with here and there the
tall white chimneys of a sugar-house, or the painted roofs of the
chateaus of the Creole, who live very luxuriously, rising in the
midst of the promising crops, whose aggregate yield it was thought
would be one hundred and sixty millions of pounds of sugar. The
foliage that encroaches on the roadside with its luxuriance, or
stretches way back to the base of the steep volcanic hills in sight,
says “Tropical, tropical;” “the acacia waves her yellow hair,” you
have the wide-spreading banyan, the tall rough barked cocoa, the
cabbage-tree—its branches interlocked, the banana, the plantain, the
ever-graceful palm,— each one of its leaves large enough to make a
fan; and then too the traveller’s tree, which on being tapped, affords
the weary and athirst a substitute for water. Underneath this mass of
rank green, you notice the straight-stemmed aloe with its graceful
top-knot, and in the hedges that porcupine plant, the cactus, whose
prickly leaf and long thorn, prevent the hump-backed, or Hindoo cattle
of the country from getting in the fields of green cane. Then the
birds are beautiful to see: the pure white boatswain, the noisy little
paroquet, the black frigate bird, and the pretty little cardinal with
his feather cowl.

The morning scene along the roads is at all times animated. With his
proverbial industry, in rope-harness, one John Chinaman is pulling and
another John Chinaman is pushing, heavy burdens in a small wagon; or,
footing it in a trot to the town, with his bamboo-baskets strapped
on shoulder, goes the chicken-merchant with his juvenile Shanghaes.
Walking past you in groups, their hands clasped one with another, or
stretched on their back, the rays of the sun kept off by the shady
branches of the palm, or sitting under a roof made of its leaves,
having his head shaved, or the hairs of his moustache plucked out here
and there, to make the outline more graceful, is the semi-denuded and
meat-hating Lascar.

This is a very small picture.

I visited the village of “_Pamplemouses_,” where is situated the
church—as the delightful story, hath it —in which worshipped the
mother of Paul and the mother of Virginia. Not far from this building,
in the grounds of a resident, placed on either side of an artificial
lake containing red and gold fish, are two square cemented pedestals,
surmounted by rude urns, entirely overgrown with the pretty “Pride
of Barbadoes.” These are the tombs of Paul and Virginia—so said the
good old lady who accompanied us to the sentimental spot, and called
our attention to the fact that they were drowned, when these cocoa,
palm, and camphor trees around, were not so large as now. Mauritius
being an English colony, of course we paid a shilling. Some sentimental
Laura Matilda perhaps “in tears and white muslin,” has striven for
affectionate immortality, by writing on the tomb of Virginia, in a
rather masculine hand, her name; and also lets admiring gazers know,
that when she is “to hum,” she is in Massachusetts.

Next you have a view of Tomb Bay, where the young unfortunate went to
her death by shipwreck, and after thinking about the height of the
breakers, and the hardness of the coral reef, you soothe the fervid
mood by a stroll through one of the most attractive botanical gardens
that the whole East presents. The sun poured down his hottest rays,
but the lofty and strange trees that meet above your head, as a Gothic
archway, afford shade, and the great moisture produced under foot, by
this exclusion of the sun, brings up a thick green moss, so you walk
on a thick velvet carpet, while on both sides of you, rivulets of clear
water run gurgling all the time. Whether there was ever such people as
the two little loving recipients of morality, Paul and Virginia, or
not, or that the Saint Giran was ever wrecked, it is a beautiful spot
apart from the story.

But there is reality as well as romance in the Isle of France; the
present owner, John Bull, supplies it. On the iron gateway under
which you pass, in landing, is “Victoria Regina,” and Victoria Regina
levies heavy taxes on the planters. A walk on the esplanade shows you
a fence of half-buried cannon—the trophies of the English when they
captured the island from the French. In front of the house of the
governor, who gets ten thousand dollars more salary than our president,
red-coats continually mount guard. Policemen throng the streets in the
same uniform I saw in Canada, and in the barrack is quartered a fine
regiment of fusiliers to keep the people in subjection.

The island, like others in the Indian ocean, has suffered from
hurricanes; the cane may be most promising in the field, but destroyed
before garnered. The most violent hurricane they ever had, piled three
hundred houses of Port Louis in ruins, and stranded thirty ships in its
harbor.

The Portuguese, the discoverers of the island, called it Cerni; the
Dutch who came afterward, “Mauritius,” after Prince Maurice of Holland;
and the French, Isle of France. In the Champ de Mars, a fine open
plain, where the regimental bands play, the troops drill, and the
pretty Creole women take their evening drives and promenades, I noticed
a very tasteful tomb of a French governor, Malartie, which was finished
by the munificence of Sir William Gomm, an English governor.

Four days after our arrival, being the anniversary of the birthday of
the Father of our Country, our ship was appropriately dressed with
our national ensign, and at mid-day we fired a salute of twenty-one
guns, in which the English man-of-war, the “Styx,” which had reached
port, would have joined us, but an order from the admiralty forbids
the firing of salutes by their national vessels unless their battery
reaches a certain number of guns.

We reached Mauritius just in time to enjoy its pleasant fruits,
consisting of the pine-apple, the banana, the plantain, the mangoe, and
the alligator pear, which could be plentifully obtained from the fruit
boats that flocked around the ship; and then, too, before breakfast, we
drained the cocoa’s milky bowl.

With a pleasant remembrance of the hospitalities received from the
people of Mauritius, we left Port Louis for Point de Galle, on the 25th
of February.

We had a run before us of two thousand five hundred miles, and expected
in the stormy ocean we had to traverse, to meet with rough weather
on the passage, perhaps one of those dreaded typhoons; and that its
approach might be indicated at the earliest possible moment, our
barometer had been compared with the standard one in the observatory
at Mauritius, whose able and persevering superintendent is devoting
himself to the advance of meteorological information in that quarter
of the globe, and the increase of nautical science, like our own
Maury. His name is Bosquet, and, at the time of our visit, he was
preparing a moveable index card, showing the various quadrants of a
revolving gale or cyclone, which must prove of great benefit to the
practical navigator in those seas. We had a smooth sea during the run,
hot weather, and a light head wind. When General Pierce was taking
the oath of office, on the 4th of March, our nine o’clock lights were
extinguished.




CHAPTER V.


About nine o’clock of the night of the 10th of March, the lookout in
the top sang out, “Light, ho!” which we knew must be on the island
of Ceylon. The entrance to the harbor of Point de Galle, being quite
narrow, we endeavored to get such soundings as would enable us to come
to anchor until daybreak, but not succeeding in this, the ship’s head
was put off shore, and we lay-to for the night.

That most ancient and quasi-veracious traveller, Sir John Mandeville,
who had great injustice wrought him by the wits of his day, I think it
was, who, in speaking of the approach to Ceylon said, that the spicy
odor therefrom could be smelt long before “the land thereof might be
discerned from the tallest masthead of a ship.” If this be true, Sir
John, great changes have taken place in these latter days. We did
not detect anything unusually odoriferous in the atmosphere; and I
subsequently found that one might walk through a cinnamon grove without
being attracted by the scent, as the cinnamon proper is hermetically
sealed by a kind of epidermis bark, which has to be removed before
it is gotten at. The nutmeg, with the mace around it, at first of a
deep-red color, is enveloped in a covering as thick as the enclosure of
the stone of the apricot, and on the tree resembles this fruit before
ripening. The “spicy breezes” blow very “softly o’er Ceylon’s isle.”

[Illustration:  _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._
   CEYLON.]

The next morning, having gotten a pilot, we ran into the harbor of
Point de Galle, which is a very contracted one, though quite secure,
surrounded by groves of the tall cocoa-tree, which nearly conceal the
town. The town, built by the Portuguese, is entirely walled in and
fortified; and since its capture by the English its defences have been
increased. It occupies a space equal in extent to Fortress Monroe, and
was garrisoned by a native rifle regiment, with English officers, and
a small number of royal artillery. These Ceylonese troops are said
to show a ferocity of courage when in battle, and the arms of their
light-complexioned commanders frequently have to be resorted to, to
make them cease firing when the order is given. Point de Galle is now
one of the stopping-places for the peninsula and oriental mail steamers
_en route_ to China, and the isthmus of Suez. There are two other ports
on the island: that of Colombo, celebrated for its pearl-fisheries and
white elephants, and that of Trincomalee, from which a great quantity
of the teak-wood is brought.

We had scarcely anchored when the ship was surrounded by native canoes,
called d’honies, which, at a little distance, resemble planks edgewise
upon the water, fifteen or twenty feet in length. They are hollowed
out of logs so narrow, that the paddling occupant usually keeps one
leg dangling over the side. To prevent their capsizing, a solid log,
much less in size and length, pointed at both ends, is placed about ten
feet off and parallel with the boat. This is connected with the boat
by arched bamboo poles, and forms an out-rigger. A paddle propels them
very easily, and they sail quite fast.

These boats were filled with Indiamen and Ceylonese, who would have
been dressed if they had only had some garment from the slice of cotton
about the loin, up to their neck or down to the heel. In a short time
our decks were filled with them; also Mussulmen and Arabs, with their
small oval caps and vests, exposing breast and arms, and others wearing
kerchiefs of all manner of gaudy colors wrapped about them and hanging
to the knees like a skirt. But the thing that strikes you with the most
singularity is, that the men whose heads are not shaved, wear their
hair in a knot like women, secured to the back of the head with a large
tortoise-shell comb. These fellows “salam” you, and their salutation
is extremely servile. Some of them come for your clothes—they are
washermen, and return your garments with remarkable quickness for the
East. Others pull out of their kummerbunds at the waist a lot of what
they call precious stones, and say, “Wantshee, me have got good mooney
stones—star stones, ruby, cat’s-eye stone, sapphire,” &c.

    “Where every prospect pleases,
    And only man is vile!”

The “prospect” of being cheated is not a pleasant one at any time; and
these men are very “vile.” The fellow will hold the precious jewel to
the light, and in the dark, vary its position, rub it, and praise it
with great earnestness and sincerity, but should you be verdant enough
to purchase the gem, even at half the estimate set upon it by him of
the land of Golconda, an ordinary rat-tail file will very soon assure
you that you have got a fine specimen of cut-glass. The genuine, or
precious stones, are bought up by agents and sent to London. Should
their sales grow very slack they are most desirous of trading for any
old clothes you may have—oriental and old clothes!

I landed as soon as I could, after our salute, on the jutty, from which
Mr. Barnum’s elephants had been shipped, and passing through a walled
gate, entered the town, the sun shining down fiercely. The houses were
of a yellow stucco, very low, without glass in the windows, generally,
and their doors concealed behind mat screens. In my stroll in the
direction of a fine new lighthouse, terminating a picturesque point
where the sea continually breaks sullenly, my attention was attracted
by a very long, notched white flag, with a number of smaller ones on
the sides, hanging from a tall mast. On going toward it, I found it
was placed at the entrance of a walled enclosure, which contained a
mosque and Mussulman school. Fronting the door of the mosque was a pool
of not the clearest water, enclosed in handsome masonry. While I stood
there, many of the devout, among whom I saw a blind man, came in and
washed their hands and face, to say nothing of abluting their dentals,
previous to proceeding to their devotions inside the building; while
in the interior were a number kneeling on mats, then sitting back on
their bare feet, the palms of the hands meanwhile resting on the knees,
occasionally striking their forehead against the tesselated floor,
facing in the direction of Mecca. Their pointed, clog-like sandals
they had left outside. I was told I could enter if I would remove my
pedal covering, but I declined. Removing one’s boots after a long walk,
in a temperature of ninety odd, is not exactly the thing. I asked,
quizzically, a long-bearded old Mussulman standing by, who understood
English, whether he had any idols in his temple. He replied quickly:
“No; there is but one God: we worshipped your Savior and turned our
faces to Jerusalem, until Mahomet _our_ Savior came—now we turn our
faces to Mecca.” Pointing to a Hindoo temple, he remarked: “They have
idols over there, but we are not allowed even to eat or drink anything
when we are near these buildings.”

In a low stone edifice adjacent to this mosque I glanced in at a
school, where fifteen or twenty infantile scholars of both sexes whose
wardrobe complete consisted of ankle, waist, and wrist rings, and
pendent little silver ornaments, squatted on mats. In their midst,
_a la_ Turk, sat a shaven-headed, long-bearded Mussulman, chewing
the betel-leaf and areca-nut, and uplifting at intervals the rod of
correction, which was more effective than the ferula of the Christian,
owing to the scanty costume of the juvenile recipients of Mohammedan
morality. The scholars were engaged in writing with bamboo pens, on
boards covered with a clay preparation, passages from the Koran,
which was lying open upon a little stand in front of the red-saliva
pedagogue. When he turned a leaf of his sacred book, he did it with
a portion of his white garment, never touching the page with the
naked hand. It appeared to be a free jabber on the part of the tender
nudes, in Arabic, but if a sentence was missed by one, down came the
Damocletian ratan, and the humanity of breeches rushed with full force
on the mind. The kind heart of Dame Partington would have been greatly
grieved, and she would have philanthropically exclaimed, “Bless the
inventor of clothing.” And “bless the inventor of clothing;” the
vitiated taste that can find nothing repulsive in an exact marble
nudity, which, in the flesh of the original would be thought with
Dogberry, “most tolerable and not to be endured,” would be most fully
satiated—gorged—after continually looking upon the half-clad and
garmentless people of the East, no matter how fine their figures. He
will certainly become of the opinion that dress is a part and parcel of
a woman, and that she is never so engaging in appearance as when clad
in Christian garments. “Greek slaves” in bronze don’t answer.

One is struck with the fullness, beauty, and glossiness of the hair of
the natives, especially when he bears in mind, that those who do not
shave their heads, walk uncovered under the hot sun of their clime. I
had some curiosity to find out the secret of this. They use on their
hair twice a-week the juice of limes, obtained by boiling them, and
then dress it with an oil pressed cold from the queen cocoa, scented
with “citronella,” a very singular and powerful perfume which they
distil on the island. Sixty drops of the citronella is sufficient to
perfume a bottle of the oil of considerable size.

Should you sleep ashore at the hotel, you are awoke at an early hour
and informed that “bathing” is ready. Accoutred in a Lazarus-like
robe, generally known as a sheet, you bid the heathen lead the way,
and you follow to an outhouse constructed of bamboo and mats. Here two
fellows pour cold water over you from copper “monkeys,” in such quick
succession, that the most inexorable disciple of Priessnitz, would be
soon forced to cry _peccavi_. Encased in the Lazarus garment you flee
into your chamber. You are pursued here by a heathen, who tells you
“me barber,” and proceeds to shave one side of the face at a time,
shampoos your head with lime-juice, and then withdraws in favor of
another idol-worshipping attendant, who mollifies you with a cup of
fine coffee. The pleasant persecution over, you sleep again.

The news is conveyed from Point de Galle to Colombo by a
pigeon-express, none of your “fly away to my native land, sweet dove,”
business, with billet-doux, and riband around neck, but despatches,
which are tied to the feet of the bird, who in flying draws them up
under him, and in that way the paper is kept from a wetting, should it
rain. The birds from one point are sent to the other by a coach, and
not being fed in this strange cote, upon being turned out with their
despatch they fly home. They fly seventy-two miles in an hour and three
quarters.

This is an outline of modern Ceylon. The men who “bow down to wood and
stone” here will tell you, that the footprints of a man, in stone, on
the top of a mountain, is the footprint of their God, where he stepped
over to the main land; but it is called Adam’s Peak, and the Mussulmen
say that Adam and Eve dwelt there. They will tell you that Paradise
was in the Seventh Heaven, and that Adam and Eve were expelled by the
command, “Get you down, the one of you an enemy to the other, and there
shall be a dwelling-place for you on earth.” Adam fell on Ceylon, or
Suendib, and Eve at Joddah on the Red sea, and after two hundred years
the angel Gabriel conducted Adam to where Eve was, and they came and
dwelt in Ceylon.

Before leaving Point de Galle, a green boat came alongside, bearing an
elephant flag, out of which came the captain of a Siamese man-of-war,
to pay a visit of courtesy. He was quite a young-looking man,
dressed in a red jacket with a yellow silk skirt. Behind him walked
an attendant bearing a pearl box in his hand. One of our midshipmen
thought this must contain his “character.” As he spoke but Siamese, and
our commodore did not speak Siamese, the interview must have been quite
satisfactory.

On the 15th of March we left Point de Galle, and headed across the bay
of Bengal, in the direction of the northwest end of Sumatra. We did
not take in our entire quantity of coal at Ceylon, but got on board
fifty tons of the wood of the place, to try the experiment of its
burning in our furnaces. It did not answer; the expense of consumption
per hour was twenty dollars, while coal would have been about six,
and producing less steam, while it induced greater danger of setting
fire to the ship. In our run across the bay of Bengal we had a smooth
sea, hot weather, and moonlight nights. In five days we were off the
island of Nicobar, and entered the straits of Malacca, the weather
changing to squally and rainy. Here we passed the English oriental
mail-steamer from China, having on board commodore Aulick, whose late
command of the East India squadron was soon to be assumed by the
commodore aboard of our ship. Our run through the straits of Malacca
was not signalized by any remarkable incidents. We saw the shore on
either hand at times; passed in sight of the English East India penal
settlement, Pulo-Penang, and close aboard of some most lovely tropical
islands, anchored at night, and caught some red fish; made lay to,
and frightened half to death, the captain of a Malay boat, called a
parrigue, who had been manœuvring very suspiciously about nine at
night, by firing a couple of muskets at him; and received and returned
a salute. This was the English frigate Cleopatra, in tow of an East
India Company’s steamer, one day’s run from Singapore. As they neared,
the frigate broke stops with an American flag at the fore, and let slip
with twenty-one guns. The old Mississippi was not to be caught napping,
and although we had to lower away our quarter boats to prevent their
injury by the concussion from our large guns, we soon had flying the
English ensign at the fore, and replied with twenty-one. It is not
the greater part of a century, that an American man-of-war would have
been allowed to pass without any such national courtesy being shown by
an Englishman. As the two vessels passed under our stern and stood on
their way, our band gave them in its best style, “God save the Queen!”

At one o’clock in the day we were boarded by a native pilot, who
brought from the consul at Singapore a letter-bag for us. It was the
first news we had gotten directly, since leaving the United States,
then out eighty days, and almost antipodal to our homes, and no one but
he who has experienced it can appreciate fully the joy of getting a
letter at such a time. It was the first that had come to me away from
my own land, and I could have hallooed.

In the afternoon we rounded in among some beautiful islands, standing
like verdure indexes to the harbor, and soon after anchored in the
English free port of Singapore, about two miles from the shore.

And first the boats—yes, the boats. There are no more characteristic
things of a people than their water vehicles. The enormous “Himalaya”
steamship is the card that Great Britain sends out upon the ocean; the
magnificent clipper-ships of our own America, as they ride at anchor in
the “gorgeous East,” or the world over, as impatient steeds to break
their tether, not in comparison, but outstripping by contrast far the
naval architecture of any other people, do not evince the onward and
upward march of the United States, more fully than does the stupid,
cumbersome, unsightly junk, show the _inertia_ of the opinionated
Mongolian.

The Malay boats around the ship soon after we arrived, were most
symmetrical in proportion, and pretty to look at. They are “dug-outs,”
rather crank, but beautifully and sharply modelled. The song of the
native rowers is quite strange, and far from unpleasing. The man who
sits behind you in the sharp stern, steering with a paddle, pitches his
voice, and gives the key-note of the “barbaric pearl” ditty (that is,
I supposed, it must have been something about barbaric pearls), goes
on with the burden, and the two rowers amidships, rather indifferent
to the fact that the unsteadiness of their boat does not suit you,
musically chorus, “A—lah! A—lah! El—lel—la!” Their larger boats
called prahus, with their graceful latine sails, move with great
rapidity through the water, and are said to be as elegantly modelled
as any yacht “America.” Indeed, some are of the opinion that the fast
modern pleasure-boat, owes its origin to the prahus of the Malay.

Thackeray, in his “Cornhill to Cairo,” has most pleasantly and truly
described the keen relish which is afforded to travel if one could be
taken up, and suddenly translated—or immersed as it were—among a
people entirely different in complexion, habit, and costume, from his
own. Unfortunately you are deprived of this in the East; your arrival
at one place is continually anticipating another; and so at Singapore,
most unwillingly, you get too large a slice of the picture, too much
foretaste of the grand “central,” “celestial,” “flowery,” “middle
kingdom,” though in a few days’ run of China. The first thing that met
our gaze, laying in shore of us, their unsightly masts unshipped, their
large sails under cover, their high stems and decks in the shadow of
mats and bamboo, waiting for a change of the monsoon that they might
go back to Quangtung or Fungching, were moored the ungainly Chinese
junks. Of course, as is invariably the case, even on their smaller
boats, from either side of the square bow peers the big painted eye;
and if the stranger should be curious enough to inquire why they
are put there, the matter-of-fact Chinaman, with a “Hy-yah,”—more
expressive than the shoulder shrug of the Frenchman—would make answer,
“No hab eye, how can see?”

On landing, the Chinese features of the place are found to predominate
over all others, though the population of the town is also composed
of English merchants, Malays, Arabs, Jews, Parsees, Hindoos, &c.,
amounting in all to about forty thousand. You no sooner put foot on the
stairs that lead from the little bridged river, which equally divides
the city, than your ears are filled with the interminable banging of
gongs, more terrific than those which broke on the tympanum of Mr.
Benjamin Bowbell when he was going to be buried alive with an Eastern
princess. If a Chinese funeral is progressing, the gong is heard, if
some mart has just been opened, or a public sale is to take place, beat
the gong, and at sundown from the junk, “Joss” is “chin-chinn’d” by
gong-beating. The streets present a scene of much bustle and activity,
and traversing them are the most grotesque and picturesque oriental
costumes—the large tassel pendent from the Fez cap of the Parsee, of
as bright a scarlet, or his loose vest of as deep a blue, and the
handle of his pipe just as long, as others that I had seen at prior
places.

On the eastern side of the town, fronting on a fine parade or drive,
are the residences principally of the Europeans, with the exception
of some who have their bungaloes near the suburbs. Here are also
situated government-offices, a very plain-looking Protestant church,
whose swinging fans mitigate the intense heat to the worshipping
congregation; a very fine hotel, under whose pleasant mahogany—located
in arbored buildings, kept cool by moving punkas—we so agreeably
placed our knees, to enjoy fine fruits, and for a time, keep from the
rays of a torrid sun; and a pyramidal column, whose inscription tells
in English, Arabic, and Hindostanee, how grateful the people there
resident are for the service rendered them, while a prominent member of
the East India Company’s government, by one Earl Dalhousie. He may be a
scion of Pope’s

  “Next comes Dalhousie,” &c.

On the esplanade, when the sun pales his fire in the evening, a
tesselated group composed of the juvenile cockney, the Cingalese, the
Parsee, and, of course, “John Chinaman,” take their evening promenade,
while the wealthier natives who have been snoozing all day come out in
their gigs for a drive. Those of more moderate pretensions, who can
muster a halfrupee, get into a palanquin—pronounced _palankee_—for
the purpose. These are small four-wheeled vehicles with mat cushions,
capable of holding four persons. The turbaned and waist-scarfed
Lascar driver, though he has a seat apportioned him, and sufficient
reins, prefers coiling them over his arms, takes his little horse by
the cheek of the bit, and running beside him, continually encourages
him into a gallop. Some meddling English, with accompanying mistaken
philanthropy, endeavored to get an order passed by which the dear syces
should be made to save themselves fatigue and ride on their seats,
but the dear syces preferred their old custom, and protested strongly
against any such innovation. About a mile from the settlement are a
large collection of houses occupied by the Malays, who, although under
the protection of the English, still continue their custom of building
their houses over the water, elevated on posts and separately, that
they may feel freer from attack, or the visits of live animals. These
latter they have not much to dread now. Singapore is on an island
separated from the main land by a narrow strip of water, and tigers
sometimes swim over, but they are soon despatched, as the government
pays a reward of a hundred dollars for each one killed. On my ride to
this point I passed some tombs of former rajahs, and also saw a number
of wooden houses that were being fitted up for shipment to Australia.
We stopped at a factory where that pleasant farina, sago, was being
prepared. It is made from the pith of a tree; is first placed in vats
that it may become dissolved, then exposed to the sun to dry, after
which any foreign substance is removed by sifting, when it is packed,
ready for exportation, at three dollars and sixty cents per pecul. The
proprietor was a very polite and good-natured old Chinaman; by-the-by,
nearly all Chinamen are very good-natured: kick “John Chinaman,” and
smile as you do it, and he will smile too; do it with a frown, and he
becomes very indignant. The old fellow had the customary number of
hogs, whose quarters, whatever may be said of the want of cleanliness
of their celestial owner’s house, receive great attention.

Not far from here we went through the ward of a hospital for English
sailors, and also another for Chinese, whose inmates were lying on
elevated and inclined shelves, the victims of every terrible disease of
the climate.

The Joss-house at Singapore is as fine, though it may be not as
large, as any to be seen in China. An elaborately-designed and
gaudily-ornamented pagoda, of colored porcelain, rises from its centre;
its doorway is guarded by two gorgons dire, in a sitting posture, in
whose snarling mouths large balls have been ingeniously carved, so that
you may place your hand between the teeth and roll them about, yet the
whole is cut from a block of blue flinty granite. The court and alley
are paved with colored porcelain tiles, while the altar and the sleepy
idol that fills its rear, are decorated expensively and fantastically.
One of the wings of this temple, from which issued a more cook-shop
than savory smell, I noticed was appropriated as a kind of popular
restaurant, and filled with Chinamen down to the lower cooly, all
seated at small tables, uttering their mushy jargon, and bolting with
chop-sticks the boiled paddy. Their proximity to their “Joss-pigeon”
neither restrained their appetites nor their noisiness. “John Chinaman”
will tell you that “Joss” (a word which they are supposed to have
gotten by a corruption of “Dios” from their Portuguese neighbors at
Macao) is a very good man, but that there is no reason why he should
have a large temple all to himself. Opposite the temple I saw the first
Chinese “Sing-Song,” a street-theatre, made by the elevation of a
staging of bamboos covered with mats. Upon “these our players,” gaudily
attired, and accompanied by caterwauling instruments and “tom-toms,”
appear to the infinite delight of their street auditors, who guffaw
loud their approval, as they stand protected from the sun under their
paper umbrellas.

At Singapore is the prison in which nearly all the convicts from
the possessions of the English are confined, and a collection of
more villanous visages could not be met with in the walls of any
other jail. Those who have been convicted of murder, have the word
“Doomga”—Hindostanee for their crime— branded on their forehead.
Those who have been guilty of lesser offences are put into chain-gangs,
and made to keep the road in order. There was one inmate, in the person
of a negro, from Long Island, who had been sentenced for fifteen years.

Singapore was established by the English as a competitor for the trade
of the Dutch at Batavia, in the East Indian Archipelago, and being
declared a free port, has accomplished the desired result to a very
great degree. Numbers of prahus, that can play pirating or trading
as the opportunity presents, come there, bringing their commodities,
but principally that they may get powder and shot, to play Lambro
with neighboring Dyaks. It was founded in 1819, and settled with
the consent of the rajah of Johore, a part of whose possessions it
was. This rajah still receives a large annuity from the English, and
resides in the vicinity of the place. With a friend I drove out to his
place. The building was a plain one, fronted with a verandah, and the
entrance ornamented with two little brass howitzers. We were received
by the rajah’s son, who spoke a little English. He was gaudily attired
in turban made by wrapping a parti-colored kerchief about the head,
from his side hung a handsomely-mounted dagger, and he also sported
a fine gold watch. His features were quite handsome for a Malay. We
were ushered into an upper room, at one end of which, on a sofa, with
his feet drawn up under him, similarly attired with himself, sat his
father the rajah, and his brother whom we understood to be a “sultan”
of some neighboring province or country. On the table in front of them
lay their krisses, the hilts inlaid with costly jewels. They were
quite jolly-looking old fellows, and had a great many questions to ask
about the mission on which our ship was bound, &c., but the defective
translation of his son made the business of answering a slow one.
Before leaving him he caused tea and sweetmeats to be brought in, and
joined us quite sociably. The next day his son paid us a visit aboard
ship.

On the 29th of March, we left Singapore, and in a short time were
heading our course in the China sea. On the 2d of April the heat became
very oppressive. What little breeze moved on the water was aft, and
the steamer moving faster than it, the windsails which led to the
lower quarters of the ship afforded no comfort, and hung collapsed
from their halyard. Some of our firemen; whose duties always severely
onerous, but particularly so in those burning latitudes, fainted as
they stood in the fire-room while feeding their furnaces. Such is the
exhausting effect of the climate on those engaged by the peninsular and
oriental steamers, that engineers and firemen, it is said, are rotated
at intervals, with those engaged on the more healthy part of the route
on the other side of the isthmus of Suez. The greatest mortality among
them arises from diseases of the liver.

“All Fools’ Day” is not forgotten on shipboard. The better to remember
it in the younger messes, it is set apart for the celebration of the
caterer’s birthday (of course the caterer is born on that day); the
table is spread in the best way, and not until the caterer’s health
has been proposed in sherry—“a bumpers and no heel-taps”—and the
wine-glasses emptied, does the choking sensation remind the uninitiated
that he has bolted a wine-glass of rather strong whiskey.

In two or three days the weather suddenly changed to blanket
temperature; we ran into a heavy head sea; the spray was chilly, and
the sun sank as if in the cold gray of autumn. On the morning of the
6th April, the Ladrone islands appeared in sight, and we ran into
a fleet of some three hundred Chinese fishing boats—we were off
the shores of the Middle Kingdom. The sight of these awkward boats,
with their build, showing what travellers to Cathay have called the
celestial propensity to “reverse” everything, was an interesting one.
But why say the Chinese reverse? They had a national existence, when
these our moderns were not even in embryo; their laws had an existence
long before the code of Lycurgus was promulged, and their hieroglyphic
record goes away back to a period which our own sacred revelation does
not compass, so it is we who reverse. John Chinaman knows that though
the stern of his boat is broad and high; that its bow runs wedge-like
and low; that his masts, instead of raking aft, lean forward; and if
his boat, under sail, look as if she was going to run under, still
that she has borne him safely when many a “ty-fung” blew. We wished
a pilot, but in answer to the inquiry whether any could furnish one,
they nodded assent, and held up fish and some rice. The weather being
thick we ran in under one of the Ladrones and anchored for the night
in thirty fathoms water, and fired a gun for a pilot. The next morning
at daybreak, we ran in and anchored in the roadstead of the old
Portuguese city of Macao, about four miles from the shore. Though the
turbid water all around, and the naked islands that encompassed the
anchorage, did not afford a prospect calculated to prepossess one with
his first glance at the “Flowery Kingdom,” still we had a feeling of
gladness that after an almost uninterrupted run of over four months we
had reached our goal, or the region which was to be the theatre of our
movements—yes, for months.

Our stoppage was short; after communicating with the navy store-keeper
and the authorities ashore, receiving an official visit from the
Portuguese captain of the port, and procuring a Chinese pilot, we
lifted anchor, and stood over for the more flourishing English colonial
town of Hong Kong. We reached this place after doubling through denuded
steep islands, about seven o’clock in the evening. The ships of the
East India squadron lying in the harbor, who having had some intimation
of our proximity to the station by the mail-steamers from Ceylon, were
on the _qui vive_ for our approach. The old Mississippi, with the broad
pennant at her masthead, no sooner emerged from behind the western
point of the island, than the “Saratoga” and “Plymouth” sloops-of-war
hoisted their numbers and saluted. The storeship, “Supply,” we also
found there. Our ship was soon filled by brother American officers from
the other ships, come to salute and welcome old friends, and hoping
that the mail-bags we had from the United States, had brought each one
“good news from home.” The meetings were so joyous and so cordial that
we did not remember that they were taking place on the other side of
the globe. Officers from the English and French men-of-war also came
aboard to pay their respects.

The oriental salute seldom consists of more than three guns, and
many of the natives of the East are unable to see why this number
should be fired; they can not comprehend why you should burn in
compliment the same material, which you would employ in sending deadly
missiles at them, if in anger. But we, Christian nations, manage
things differently; and the next day after our arrival told it: from
the rising to the setting of the sun nearly, it was powder burning.
Upon hoisting the colors at eight o’clock we saluted the town with
twenty-one guns, and twenty-one were returned by a water-battery; the
French saluted us and we saluted them; then came the admiral and
commodorial salutes, English and French, which were returned in the old
style by letting fall fore-top sails the while; and so that day the
noise of one hundred and seventy-nine guns, broke and tumbled along the
naked hills of Hong Kong, with nearly as splendid an effect as at St.
Helena.

The harbor of Hong Kong is a very commodious and well-sheltered one,
in the shape of a half-moon, and its three entrances of Green Island,
Cap-sing-moon, and Lymoon passages, can not be seen from its centre.
On a shelf which makes a circular sweep, cut at the base of towering
volcanic hills, is built the town named in honor of the present
sovereign of Great Britain. Victoria, from the water, presents a fine
appearance, with its stuccoed warehouses, or “go-downs,” at the beach,
and the private residences and churches rising from plateaus made by
immense labor above; and the massive stone government offices and
barracks that appear on the left, tell how firmly the English plant
their foot in the East, and how triumph, with them, is synonymous
with occupancy of a slice of an enemy’s territory. This colony is the
result of their opium war in China. Our stay was short: the commodore
despatched the “Plymouth” to Shanghae, and, in the Mississippi, ran
over to Macao, an inland run of thirty-nine miles.




CHAPTER VI.


We anchored in Macao roads about mid-day, perhaps on the very spot,
where a sailor’s malice fired a magazine, and blew high in air, with
a noise like thunder, the atoms that composed the Portuguese frigate
_Donna Maria_, some years before. Macao, though in, is not of China;
instead of the low hut-like structures of unburnt blue brick and
fantastic tile of the Celestial, the eye, as it takes in the fine sweep
of the Praya, rests on large mansions whose verandahs exclude the
sun, whose portals are spacious and stylish, and whose stucco little
discolored by time, only appears all the more impressive, and sees
rising on the eminence behind venerable cathedrals; while garrisons,
crown batteries, and old-looking forts on either side, with the ensign
of Portugal, define its ownership, and make the picture more imposing.
It was here that the zeal of the Jesuit commenced the propagation
of his faith and questioned the ethics of Confucius; it was here
that the “glory and shame” of Portugal—one-eyed Camoens—disgusted
at the country which could neither appreciate his genius nor reward
his courage, spent in voluntary exile five years of his life and
completed the Lusiad—that poem which, when shipwrecked, he saved
from destruction by swimming and holding it above water, and that was
ultimately to meet with the worse fate of being rendered into another
language by Fanshaw. It was here that the English displayed the
surreptitious boldness of carrying away, by the power of arms, from
Portuguese custody, a missionary who had been guilty of the bad manners
and overt nonsense of offending people not his own, by a refusal of
compliance with a very ordinary custom, on the occasion of a catholic
procession, at a time when the authorities and the greater part of the
population were witnessing a boat regatta in their harbor; and it was
at the outer barrier of Macao, that its governor, a few years ago,
while taking an evening ride with one of his aids, was cut to pieces by
the revengeful Chinamen, because of his having caused a road to be made
through one of their burial-places in the vicinity.

On anchoring, a number of us paid a visit to the shore, which was some
distance, in a Chinese “fast-boat,” the ship’s boats being seldom used
in those countries, both because of a sanitary regard for a ship’s
company, who would suffer from long rows under a new and sickly sun,
and because the Chinese conveyances are scarcely the tax of a song: a
“fast-boat,” with a crew of three or four rowers, which also serves
as the floating habitation of the owner and a family composed of as
many more, can be employed for constant attendance on a man-of-war for
a very small number of dollars per month. They are always at hand;
when not going they are made fast astern, and when triangulating
between Whampoa, Macao, and Hong-Kong, they follow with Ruth and Naomi
constancy. Will we forget you, old Ashing?—with your punctuality and
good-natured readiness, whether disturbed at your chow-chow, or called
at late hour of the night? Then, too, your ever equable philosophy;
the Irish pilot knew the rocks in the channel well, especially when he
thumped on top of one; but your foresight, far surpassing his, always
told us, in answer to the question, “Can you take us off?”—“Supposee
too much no good wind, no can catchee ship: Supposee no too muchee bad
wind, can catchee ship,”—which was so solacing. The name “fast-boat”
is a misnomer, except when chased by a good wind, and then they move
through the water, impelled by their large mat-sails, with great
rapidity. They are built in a wedge-like shape, generally some twenty
feet long, with a small indented place with seats under matting for
their passengers, and movable decks, below which the crew stretch
themselves to sleep. Since the days of the “old woman who lived in a
shoe,” nothing can be found which has been made to contain more human
beings in the same space than a Chinese fast, or tanka boat, besides
having room for cooking purposes, a watertank, a spare spar, and a
small altar, in whose front a joss-stick kept burning propitiates their
tutelar deity. Ye pampered denizens of the crowded city, upon whose
elbows the bricks and mortar of more plebeian neighbors crowd too
close, go and learn of those human bees of the world, economy of space.

The water becomes so shoal before reaching the stone pier, that the
little vessel lowers sail and drops anchor—this shoalness is the
result of that want of force or energy, which, shown in the decline
of Goa, could not maintain the fortifications of Point de Galle after
building them, and which from sudden and unhealthy culmination, has
marked the downfall of all the Portuguese possessions in the East.

We were encompassed by tanka-boats—so named from their resemblance
in shape to an egg—a great number of which they could scarcely
contain. Their maiden proprietors, with their pretty teeth, big nankeen
breeches, nicely-plaited hair, small bare feet and braceleted wrists,
at once set up the cry, “Takee my boatee!—takee my boatee!” Some one
having taken the cockle-shell barge of Atti, and some other that of
Aqui, a few moves of the powerful skull of the Celestial Charon at
the stern, as her small feet step back and forth on a neatly-scoured
miniature platform, and a few pulls at the sweep-oar of the Celestial
Charon in the bow, and the boat now is in the sand of the beach. One
of the maidens, with none of the aversion of the feline species, steps
over into the water, arranges a small cricket-bridge, and balance-pole
of bamboo, and with the right hand of fellowship helps you up on the
nice stone jutty. Up, you walk to Franck’s hotel, on the wide and
level praya, leading to the circular promenade on which the Rip Van
Winkle population, when the hot sun is nearly down, go to take their
ante-supper walk and evening airing.

On the 18th of April we left the anchorage of the old Portuguese city,
and started for our first visit to the anchorage of Canton for ships
drawing twenty feet of water. We stood across the wide and turbid
estuary of the Pekiang, and about twelve o’clock we reached the Bocca
Tigris—the proper mouth of the Canton river—and passed the forts
of the Bogue, that the English ships Andromache, Imogen, and others,
handled so badly as they held on their way up to their great city. We
were detained some time before reaching here, by having towed under
an itinerant fast-boat who had made fast astern. It took some time to
right his boat, bail her, and take off the crew who huddled on her
keel. The fellow was attempting to smuggle salt which made his boat too
deep. He afterward fell into the hands of some of the river pirates who
infest the waters of China. We ran through fish-stakes innumerable,
passed pagodas—those lofty, circular, terraced piles of brick and
porcelain, which some of the Chinamen tell you were built to mark
the commencement of learning and civilization with them, and others
that they keep off evil spirits from the country visible from their
tops—and at three o’clock were moored in Whampoa Reach, surrounded by
merchant-ships of all nations; from the mountainous old East Indiaman,
to the (cynosure of all) magnificent American clippers. ’Tis here, of
all the world, in a limited space, that the alpha and omega of naval
architecture are to be seen—the “Flying Cloud,” the “Sea Serpent,” and
the Chinese salt-junk.

After chartering a Peruvian-built bark as a coal-ship for the squadron,
and ordering two officers to her, allowing those of the Mississippi
to make a hurried visit to Canton, and shipping about forty Chinese
coolies, whose names puzzled the purser to enter, we returned to Macao
and then to Hong-Kong. On the 27th April we left the latter place for
the more northern port of Shanghae, where the steam-frigate Susquehanna
awaited the arrival of the commodore, who proposed making her his
flag-ship because of her noble spaciousness. We went out by the Lymoon
passage, and with the ship deeply laden with coal, staggered along up
the Formosa channel. For a few days we had a mist so thick that it
precipitated in rain, and afterward a fog so thick that we ran slowly
and cautiously not to go over Chinese fishermen, and also to take
soundings, for which purpose the engines were stopped at intervals.
Our band played at intervals: the English-coast pilot on board had a
Kanaka servant with him; this fellow would listen to the music with
much interest and seem delighted: the Chinese cooley would move about
the deck the while, apparently perfectly unconscious of, or indifferent
to the sweet strains, or if he observed at all, his smooth and sinister
face looked his disapproval of such a barbarian noise.

Our first of May suggested anything else but floral association. It
was cold and raw; blowing fresh, and a heavy head-sea, which, during
the night, smashed in the port side of the head-rail of the ship; deck
wet, sky overcast; no observations, to determine our position could be
taken; poor little land-birds, ejected from domicil, were perched in
the rigging, too much benumbed to work their passage, and around were
small junks of the Chinaman, “laying-to,” with basket-drags from head
and stern, like floating anchors.

On the 3d, we entered the mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang—it being
remembered that _kiang_ is the Chinese for river. The water is as muddy
as that of the Pekiang. Just inside of an island, bearing the euphonic
name of the orientalist and quasi-missionary, Gutzlaff, we got an
English pilot who gave us the first intelligence of the doings of the
rebel army, up the river, in the vicinity of Nanking. The navigation of
the Yang-tse is exceedingly intricate, owing to hard and shifting bars,
which rendered it necessary for a ship of our size to proceed with much
caution. The shores were low and white, and resembled the coast of
Florida. Shanghae is situated on the Woosung river, which empties into
the Yang-tse at the village of Woosung, and after reaching the village
and anchorage for opium-ships, you run off to the left and southwest
for Shanghae. Nothing can exceed the closeness and thoroughness of the
cultivation visible on the bank on both sides of this tortuous stream;
it looks like one great market-garden, and the wonderful industry of
its cultivators, says to the black soil, month in and month out, “Give!
give!” The unremitting toil, and the uninterrupted use of ammoniacal
fertilizers never allow the earth to be weary of well-doing. No wonder
agriculture is so fostered by the government, and that once a year the
imperial cousin, &c., to the planetary system, should, by holding the
plough in the field, attempt the impossibility of adding dignity to the
labors of the husbandman.

A few hours’ run after entering the Woosung, enabled us to descry
the Susquehanna and the Plymouth, the bend of the river, and the low
and level paddy-fields, causing them to appear as if enclosed by dry
land. The salute of the former came to us over any quantity of waving
rice. The river, at the city, is quite narrow, and we anchored in the
Chow-chow water—which, with the upturned mud, curls and eddies and
turns back and runs on, causing the ships to swing every way at their
anchors—just opposite to the numerous houses of the foreign residents,
and a short row from a stone quay and level walk which imported
cockneyism calls “_the Bund_.”

Below where we lay, across Suchow creek, was to be seen a neat little
protestant church, with a small tower, and the unpretending residences
of the missionaries of protestant churches, whose unremitting labors,
and social deprivation, deserve better reward than the mere partial
success with which they meet. Above the consulate and hongs, commences
the city, its walls approaching the water’s edge, and running some
distance back. A short walk through a crowded and muddy suburb and you
enter one of the gates. The imperial authority, the Taoutae, fearing
an attack from the adherents of the rebel chief, Thae-ping-Wang,
had fortified the place, and most of the silk and other stores were
closed. Previous to our arrival they had experienced the shock of
an earthquake, which had shaken down a wall or so. I passed through
the narrow, sloppy streets, but the scene was far from the animated
one that we had seen in Canton. The population, whose complexions
and persons are better than in the more southern districts, were
evidently apprehensive that there was soon to be “too muchee bobbery,”
or fighting. But nothing can restrain the lower classes from their
insatiate vice of gambling. In the tea-gardens, from morning to night,
it was to be seen going on; while the “sing-song” theatres were amusing
others. At the entrance to a joss-house, and along the streets, were
to be seen the horrible ghastly emaciation, and foamy mouths, of dead
and dying beggars, in filthy tattered rags, to whose presence the
passers-by seemed utterly indifferent. Some had dragged themselves
to die on the flag-stone crossing of a small stream, that they might
possibly get interment; it being said that any one who touched them, is
compelled to have this office performed.

The occupants of the foreign hongs had formed a volunteer, or patrol
company, for the custody of their property, and under the protection
of the guns of quite a large English and American force, were having
their amusement, indifferent to Taontae, or Thae-ping-wang. Dinners
were given at the consulates, _a la Chinois_, at which the American
and English envoys were present; and at night parties were given by
these functionaries, and well attended; or a neatly-printed bill
with “Imperial Theatre, Shanghai, and _Vivant Regina and Princess_,”
requested the honor of your Company, to witness the dramatic doings of
“her majesty’s servants,” of the English brig “Lily.” Then, too, there
was the “spring meeting of the Shanghae races,” which were interesting,
and ridiculous too, at times. The course was not very extensive, but
quite well thronged, here and there a Tartar soldier being visible in
the crowd. The races, in which I noticed Mr. T’hën Tih had entered his
steed Qui-Qui, were:—

 1.—THE GRIFFIN’S HANDICAP.—For _China Ponies_ that have run in the
 _Griffin’s Plate_, and whose owners have subscribed to this Handicap;
 the winner of the _Griffin’s Plate_ excluded.—Heats once round from
 the Willows.—Ponies to be handicapped after the _Griffin’s Plate_
 is run for.—Subscribers may start two Ponies for one subscription.
 Prizes from amount subscribed to be appropriated to 1st, 2d, and 3d
 Ponies in six shares.—The winner of the race to receive 3 shares,
 the second Pony 2, and the third 1 share.—The second and third
 Ponies in the last heat to be the winners of the second and third
 prizes.—Entrance $10, and half forfeit if declared on or before 8th
 April.

 2.—THE TSATLEE CUP,—Value $75, for all _Ponies_.—Entrance $3 each to
 second Pony.—Weight for inches.—Winner of the _Manilla Cup_ to carry
 14 lbs. extra and of _Chaa-sée Cup_ 7 lbs. extra.—Twice round.

 3.—THE PANG-KING-PANG STAKES,—Of $2 each with $20 from the fund for
 _China Ponies_.—Weight for inches.—Once round from the Willows.

 4.—THE LADIES’ PURSE AND PLATE,—Value $50 for all _Ponies_.—Entrance
 $3 each.—Weight for inches.—Twice round.

 5.—THE PERSIAN CUP,—Value $50.—Second Pony $15.—For _China Ponies_
 only.—Entrance $3 each.—Weight for Inches.—Once round from the
 Willows.

 6.—THE FORCED HANDICAP,—For all _Winning Ponies_ at this meeting to
 be handicapped by the Stewards.—Entrance $3 each with $30 from the
 fund.—Once round and a distance.

 7.—THE CELESTIAL STAKES,—For all _Beaten China Ponies_ at this
 meeting.—Entrance $3 with $30 from the fund. Weight for inches.—Once
 round and a distance.

 8.—THE NATIVE PURSE,—Value 15,000 cash, for all _Ponies_.—Indian and
 Chinese riders.—Post entries to the clerk of the course. No entrance
 fee.—Twice round.

The native horses are small, and the native saddles clumsy in the
extreme, with their large iron-lever stirrups; and when John Chinaman,
perched like a monkey on his shoulders, pushed his pony for the purse,
the scene was exceedingly ludicrous. Fourteen cash make one cent, so
the amount won in the last race was not so great as one would think.

On the 9th the commodore, with the customary manning of yards and
salute, shifted his broad pennant from the Mississippi to the
Susquehanna, and the British war-steamer “Hermes,” which had been
to take the English plenipotentiary to the camp of the rebel chief
below Nanking, returned with that functionary, whose mission had not
proven propitious. Her officers stated that on their way up the river,
near Cheang-foo, they were fired at by the rebel forces, and above
Nanking by the imperial troops, but without injury. In an interview
with them, the English assured them that their visit was both friendly
and neutral. The rebels expressed regret at the firing, and said they
would send down an order to prevent its recurrence. There being a
difficulty between Thae-ping-wang and the English embassador, Sir S.
George Bonham, as to the preliminaries of an interview, the “favorite
of Heaven” not willing to make any concessions, the steamer returned,
and was again fired at, one shot striking her hull, and another the
main-yard and backstay. The “Hermes” let slip at them, knocking over
some of their guns, and passed on. At a place called Silver island they
stopped to take a look at the idols the rebels had broken, when one of
their generals came down with an apologetic letter about the firing; it
was a mistake. This general said himself, and those united with him in
the struggle, were protestant Christians; that they did not tolerate
opium, tobacco, or profanity, and worshipped not idols, but the one
God. If they were successful they would open Nanking to all the world.
At that time a great deal of aid to the labors of the missionaries in
China, was predicted from their movements, which subsequent events have
not realized.

The storeship “Supply,” of our squadron having gotten ashore at the
mouth of the Yang-tse on the “North bank,” we were suddenly despatched
to her assistance, but discovered she had gotten afloat before the
Mississippi reached her anchorage. Below Woosung we took in tow a
large teak-wood junk, manned by Chinamen, and laden with coal, which
we were to take aboard after getting over the bar. On the 18th, while
waiting for the Susquehanna, the tide changed, the old junk drifted
into us threatening to crush our quarter-boats, so she was cast off.
The ancient pig-tail mariner who presided over her crew and helm,
though conscious of drifting each moment on a dangerous bank, would not
cast his anchor, because, as it was afterward believed, he thought the
“fanquis” of the American steamer were going to tow him out to sea; the
consequence was, the wind and sea having increased, the junk struck,
and the tide soon falling, she was hard and fast. Boats were sent to
her assistance, but the breakers prevented her from being reached,
before a late hour of the night, when the officer sent with the boats
seeing it impossible to get her off, and seven feet water in her hold,
she was abandoned, and the crew brought aboard of the Mississippi. A
dismal looking set of Celestial scape-graces they were, and presented
a motley group as they sat around their pig-tail Falconer encased in
an antique fur cape, jabbering about their escape. Before our boats
were able to reach them, they had illuminated their cabin altar, burned
perfumed sticks and paper, and chin-chinned Joss with great vim, but
their stupid little tutelar deity not having responded to their prayers
for assistance, they became indignant, tossed Mr. Joss, altar, perfumed
sticks, and all, overboard, and betook themselves to the more sensible
thing of building a raft of bamboos and their huge mat sails, with
which they proposed, when the sea went down, to risk their safety. They
were sent back to Shanghae by the pilot-boat, having subjected Uncle
Sam to some three thousand dollars’ loss, besides nearly all of the
crew of the boat, that slept aboard of her, had the “junk fever,” and
one afterward died from it.

The weather continuing very rough, the wind at times changing in five
minutes to the opposite point of the compass, we laid under Saddle
island for two or three days, when, with the “Supply” in tow, and in
company with the now flag-ship, “Susquehanna,” on the 23d of May, we
took our departure for the Loo-Choo islands.




CHAPTER VII.


The island of Great Loo-Choo appeared in sight after a run of three
days from China. Previous to reaching there, the commodore issued a
general order, requiring look-outs to be kept in port as at sea, during
the stay of the squadron among the Japanese islands, and all movements
of vessels or collections of boats were to be reported to the officer
of the deck, and by him to his superiors; sentinels with loaded musket
and six rounds of ball-cartridges; general and division exercises of
great guns and small arms, with artillery and infantry drills, were
to be prosecuted with increased diligence; and in navigating those
seas attention was to be given more to precautionary measures to
secure safety than to accomplish quick passages. Another general order
stated that the countries which our ships were then about to visit
were inhabited by a singular people, whose policy it had been, during
more than two centuries, to decline all intercourse with strangers, to
which end they had resorted to acts at variance and irreconcilable with
the practices of civilized nations; that one of the duties enjoined
upon the commodore, was to endeavor to overcome these prejudices by a
course of friendly and conciliatory measures, and to strive to convince
the Japanese that we went among them as friends, though assuring them
of our determination never to submit to insult or wrong, or desist
from claiming and securing those rights of hospitality justly due
from one nation to another. In pursuance of these objects, every
individual under his command should exercise the greatest prudence,
forbearance, and discretion, in their intercourse with all with whom
they came in contact. While distrustful of their apparent friendship
and sincerity, and guarding against treachery, they would extend toward
those oppressed and misgoverned people every kindness and protection,
and would be careful not to molest, injure, or maltreat them in any
manner; that it would be in time to resort to extreme measures when
every friendly demonstration should have been exhausted. The commodore
also stated that his instructions directed him to forbid in the most
positive manner the acceptance of presents or supplies, unless those
who proffered them, were prepared to receive adequate returns.

That we might be the better prepared, in addition to the great-gun
exercises, drill, &c., when “friendly demonstrations should have been
exhausted,” the commander-in-chief provided himself with an octagonal
marquee made of red, white, and blue, caused ambulances to be made in
the different ships, and directed that all boats of the squadron when
prepared for distant or active service, were to be armed and provided,
so as to be ready at a sudden call, with anchor and cable, two spare
oars, masts, sails, and rigging, spun-yarn and seizing stuff, four
battle-axes, a hand-saw for each division, one wood-axe, spikes, bag
with hatchet, sheet-lead and nails, spy-glass for commanding officer
of division, musket, pistol, and cutlass for each man, cartouch-box
filled, screw-driver and nipple-wrench, cleaning rags and oil for each
boat, a crow-bar, two blue-lights, two rockets, candles primed, and
match-ropes in tin-box, lantern and materials for getting light, boat’s
colors and signals, compass, bread, water and provisions, oar-muffles,
bandages and laudanum for wounded, lead-lines, small cooking apparatus
for largest boat, flash-pans, and awnings.

On getting to our anchorage we felt as if we had arrived at the outer
door of the hermetic empire that we had come so far to deal with, we
being then only about eight or nine days’ sail from the bay of Yedo. As
Loo-Choo had no doubt been selected as the base of operation, upon the
principle of reaching the old hen by first going at the chickens, it
will be as well to give an outline of its history.

The Loo-Choo islands—pronounced in Japanese Lu Kiu—are a dependency
of the Japanese prince of Satsuma. There are thirty-six islands in all,
which are divided in three groups: the Northern or Sanbok, the Middle
or Tchusan, and the Southern or Sannan group. According to the belief
of the inhabitants, the origin of the people of these islands, like
that of nearly all the orientals, is divine, and nowise of the Lord
Monboddo theory. Their annals always commence with a series of gods,
then follow a race of demi-gods, and at last come human beings. To
their great veneration for their ancestors, may probably be ascribed
these conceits. A son reveres his father beyond everything else; this
father likewise revered his progenitor. So the grandfather gets all the
love of his son, with a large share of that of the grandson through the
grandson’s father. A thousand years in Loo-Choo chronology is a small
matter: they note the existence of their islands for seventeen thousand
years, that is agreeably to what the Chinaman would call their “fash;”
so compound interest for a thousand years in filial veneration gives
divinity of origin to their nation.

The Chinese emperor, Kang-hy, in 1719, sent a man of great attainments
to Loo-Choo. The report of this learned pig-tail, upon what he saw
in the country, was translated by Father Gaubil of the French Jesuit
mission in China, whose records probably contain more data relative
to the ancient history of the East, than is to be found in any other
mission.

The Chinese histories first make mention of Loo-Choo in the year 605.
In that year a party of Chinese visited the islands, and on their
return brought with them some of the natives, who were taken to Pekin.
Here they were recognised as Loo-Chooans by the Japanese embassador at
that court. They are described as being very ignorant and very poor.
The emperor Yang-ti, however, sent embassadors and interpreters to
claim sovereignty over the islands, but the king of Loo-Choo rejected
all proposals of the kind, whereupon the emperor sent ten thousand
men from Fokien to invade the islands. They landed on the island of
Great Loo-Choo, and were bravely met by the king at the head of his
army. A pitched battle was fought, in which the king was slain, when
the Chinese triumphed, taking five thousand prisoners, and sacking the
cities of Sheudi and Napa. The Chinese chronicle the fact that the
Loo-Chooans were so lamentably destitute that they did not even know
the use of “chop-sticks!” and also state that they sometimes sacrificed
human beings at their religious festival, which barbarous custom was at
once abolished.

The Chinese emperors of the Ting dynasty, and also those of the
succeeding Song dynasty, did not exercise sovereign rights over the
islands. A trade had sprung up between the two countries, and all went
as well as a junk could sail, until 1291, when the emperor Chit-su,
of the Eeven dynasty, resolved upon their conquest. He fitted out
and despatched an armed expedition for this purpose, but the Tartars
and Chinese, both disgusted and disheartened by the recollection of
their terrible failure in a similar attempt on Japan, after a short
absence returned to the port of Fokien, not having gone in sight of
the islands. The history of the islands speaks of constant civil war,
and bloody battles. In 1372 the largest island was divided into three
kingdoms. Hong-u, the first of the Ming dynasty, sent an embassador
to Loo-Choo, whose diplomacy was such as to induce T’say-too, one
of the kings who resided at Sheudi, to declare himself tributary to
China. His example was followed by the two other kings, and peace was
restored. Thirty-six Chinese families, by order or with the consent
of the emperor, emigrated to the island, who received their “quarter
sections” from the king, and from that time dates the commencement
of civilization and Chinese influence. Young men from Loo-Choo were
annually sent to Nanking, to learn the Chinese language at the expense
of the emperor; and presents were exchanged by the sovereigns. At the
death of T’say-too the emperor sent his son to preside over the realm.
Loo-Choo then became prosperous, trade sprang up; and during the reign
of Chang-pat-shi, the great grandson of T’say-too, the three kingdoms
of the islands were re-united, and the royal family assumed the title
of Chang.

Revolutions and civil wars raged from time to time, and a feudal
system was established. Commerce with China increased, and the Chinese
complained of the scarcity of silver and copper coin in the provinces
Tshe-kiang and Fokien, on account of the exportation of it to Loo-Choo.
In 1500, the Loo-Choo people sent a trading junk to Malacca, many
to the island of Formosa, and a great many to the southern ports of
Japan. During the reign of Chang-tching, Loo-Choo became the market
where Japanese and Chinese merchants met to exchange their goods.
Commerce became brisk, and the constant quarrels between the Chinese
and Japanese gave the king an opportunity to extend his influence. The
extensive piratical operations of the Japanese, about the year 1525,
having their headquarters at Ke-long-chan, on the island of Formosa,
compelled the emperor of China to have recourse to the king of Loo-Choo
as mediator between him and the emperor of Japan. The mediation did not
suppress the piracy complained of, though backed by large squadrons
sent to sea by the celestial emperor, to destroy the pirates, over whom
his imperial confrere of Japan professed to have no control; indeed,
the Japan monarch alleged that there were many Chinese among these
outlaws.

The ascent of the throne of Japan by Taico Sama, proved an event of
great importance. He was a man of great ability and shrewdness, and
attained his high position by his own exertions, and not by birth.
He put an end to feudalism in his country, and ruled with an iron
hand. He conceived the idea of using to advantage the terror which
prevailed because of the Japanese pirates, and the prestige which
their daring acts had acquired. His ambition was as unbounded as his
belief in manifest destiny, and his object was the conquest of China.
He despatched officers to the king of Loo-Choo, ordering him to declare
his kingdom tributary to Japan; and similar pressing invitations were
sent to the governors of the Philippine islands, the king of Siam, &c.
The sovereign of Loo-Choo temporized, and finally refused to submit,
relying on Chinese protection. He informed the emperor of the plans
of Taico Sama; a league of all these princes was formed against him,
when Taico Sama invaded that fighting-ground between the Chinese and
Japanese—the peninsula of Corea. Taico’s main object was attained.
He reaped all the benefit proceeding from piracies licensed by him or
enlisted in his service, and thus giving it the character of a regular
warfare. He smothered civil war in its germ, and sent away his most
influential opponents to fight in the Corea, not Crimea. Corea was then
the safety-valve for ardent spirits against the government, as France
keeps its Algiers, or keeps up a foreign war. Taico “savaad” a great
deal.

During the reign of Taico, Loo-Choo suffered severely; trade was
brought to a stand still, and, like a more modern nation that Americans
wot of, Japan proclaimed herself mistress of the sea. The king of the
islands, however, managed to send an embassador to China, who was
received with great magnificence by the emperor, both on account of the
dangers he had encountered from the voyage in the junk, and the risk
incurred of falling into the hands of the pirates who swarmed in those
seas.

After the death of Taico, and during the regency of Iyeyas for his son,
in 1612, a Loo-Chooan chief, dissatisfied with his king, armed three
thousand men in Japan, with whom he returned to his own country and
made the kingdom by force tributary to Japan, that is, to the province
of Satsuma. He took back the king a prisoner. The fallen sovereign of
Loo-Choo behaved with so much dignity, that two years afterward he was
generously sent back, and reinstated on his throne, remaining still a
true friend to the emperor of China.

Commercial relations, but on a small scale, existed with China and
Japan, when, in 1708, all the plagues came down on Loo-Choo: it was
desolated by the ravages of terrible typhoons; the crops failed; cattle
died; the king’s palace was entirely consumed by fire; and frightful
epidemics prevailed among the natives. Cang-hi, the emperor of China,
sent them assistance, and his embassador, Supas Kang, in his report,
according to the translation in French, says the language of these
people is so mixed up of Chinese and Japanese, that it forms almost
a distinct language. He finds no wild animals or venomous reptiles
or insects, but much fish. Their exports at that time consisted of
sulphur, a peculiar red dye stuff, dried fish, saki, and timber,
principally cedar-wood.

The prospect, as you approach Great Loo-Choo island, clothed in masses
of deep green, is very delightful to the eye, after it has been resting
for days on the slate-colored ocean. We reached our anchorage late in
the afternoon in the midst of a heavy rain, on the 26th of May. The
roadstead off the city of Napa is enclosed by large fields of coral,
and the entrances through the reefs are quite narrow. When we had
gotten inside, large numbers of the natives appeared on the shore,
no doubt greatly astonished at the sight of the two large steamers;
and shortly after, the sloop-of-war “Saratoga,” from Hong Kong, also
arrived. In a short time a rude dug-out boat came off to our ship,
containing some officer, but as the flag-ship had previously made
signal forbidding any communication with shore, he was directed to that
ship—now the Susquehanna. He wished to know what we wanted in their
harbor; the answer to this was, “Ask no questions and I’ll tell you,”
&c. He was given to understand that he was rather too “small pigeon”
for our commodore to see, and that he must go back and send off their
“first chop” mandarin, as we could hold no intercourse with any other.
This was trying on the _dignitate_ early, but nothing else will answer
in the East; any concession of equality, or manifestation of too great
courtesy, would be at once construed by them into an admission of their
superiority.

Our stripes and stars were a new sight to them, and the sudden advent
of our ships in their waters was more than they could comprehend.
At night their chief men took counsel together, and came to the
conclusion that we were in want of _kam-yum-muru_, or something to eat;
so the next morning off came, in a string of canoes, bullocks, pigs,
chickens, and vegetables, as presents. These were sent back with the
information that we could not receive presents. Become quite uneasy
about our presence, they consented to their prince regent’s coming off
to the flag-ship, which he did at an appointed hour, with a _suite_
in their canoes. He was well received, and given the cheap salute of
three guns, which small compliment he would have preferred to dispense
with. They were shown over the ship: the engines were moved for their
observation, and they evinced immense surprise: some of the attendants,
however, when the great pistons moved, bolted up the hatchway and made
for their boats. The higher officers were quite dignified in appearance
and demeanor, but the lower class showed a simplicity most childish.
They giggled at a looking-glass, and continually felt behind it; a
sight through a spy-glass was most puzzling; a wine-glass they held
tightly with both hands, and elevated to the forehead before tasting
contents; a watch was most miraculous, and as they gathered round they
were all wonderment, and imitated its “tick tick;” when the works were
exposed to them, their exclamation of surprise was more like one of
pain. The contents of the purser’s chest when exposed to them they
seemed to think quite shiny and pretty, but evidently were unaware of
the value or use of eagles, dollar-pieces, &c. On a chart of the world,
in the cabin one day, I showed a number of them their country, and then
designating my own, traced the track by which we had come to their
island, which they appeared to comprehend. It was quite amusing to see
the rapidity with which they would let go the polar handles of a small
galvanic battery, which much persuasion and the example of some of the
men were first required to get them to take hold of, as soon as it was
slightly charged by pushing in the needles. They would drop their hands
and rub their wrists in amazement.

The dress of the Loo-Chooans consists of a loose gown reaching to
the knees, with large sleeves, made of a species of grass-cloth, of
their own manufacture, and confined at the waist with a wide sash,
pendent from which they wear a tobacco-pouch and small pipe. After the
interchange of salutations, the pipe is always produced. On their feet,
which are generally bare, they wear a coarse straw sandal, secured by a
strap passing through next to the great toe, and one around the instep.
Like the Japanese, the better classes carry a fan; but only the high
officers wear a hat, made of crape, the first class yellow, and the
second red—more particularly as a badge of authority. Their hair is
brushed up all around the head, and its ends secured in a knot on the
summit of the head, transfixed by silver or brass pins.

[Illustration:   _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._
  LOO CHOO.]

We knew that Loo-Choo had been visited in 1846 by a French missionary,
Forcade, who had subsequently left, but were rather surprised on
anchoring abreast of a tall and singular formation, called in the
surveys of the “Alceste and Lyra,” “Capstan rock,” but which more
nearly resembles a large old barn, with dark thatched roof, and huge
projecting eaves—to see flying from its summit the English flag. We
afterward ascertained that it was a flag giving protection to Dr.
Bettelheim, a converted Hungarian Jew, who had married an English
lady, and had been sent by an English naval mission society, some
seven years before, as a missionary to Loo-Choo. He did not appear to
be a man whose disposition and temperament were calculated to afford
him success in his labors, although he had persevered in his study of
their language until he could preach to the natives in it, and had
occupied his lonely position for years, with no other Christian faces
than those of his wife and three children. The Loo-Chooans had tried
every way to get rid of him; they had addressed, through the Chinese,
to the English minister, Lord Palmerston, remonstrances against the
mission, which invariably closed with the petition that he would remove
Bettelheim. They may not have known Vattel, but they urged with much
energy his doctrine, that a missionary should leave a country when
his presence was not agreeable to its people. But the Dr. held his
ground, though he was made to undergo some rather rough treatment.
Himself, by his professional skill in the healing art, and his wife,
during the prevalence of the smallpox, had been very attentive to the
people, which caused the authorities to become quite jealous. They were
followed and hooted at in the streets, and finally, Mrs. B. during a
walk, was forcibly separated from her husband, and himself beaten. The
British war-steamer “Sphynx” happened to pay a visit to Napa not long
afterward, when the authorities made ample apology for the offence,
and promised better things in future. They removed his servants, or
constantly changed them. They erected spy-houses opposite the gate of
his residence, which were constantly attended. If he preached to a
crowd in the street, or market-place, at a signal from the Japanese
police on the island, his auditors all ran away. If he distributed
tracts in their language at night, the next morning, the police brought
them back to him, carefully tied up.

They were much disturbed by our presence, and if our sails were
loosened to dry, they wondered why we did not sail away. We made a
reconnoissance of their harbor to ascertain or confirm the accuracy
of the surveys of Beechy, and the flag, or station staffs, we erected
on shore for this purpose, around which numbers would gather, sorely
perplexed them.

The principal town of Napa, containing about twenty thousand
inhabitants, is located behind the rising beach, and can not be seen
well from the shipping. Its _kiang_, or river, forms a harbor for junks
from China, Japan, and their coasting trade, and small boats only. The
houses of the town which are low, are enclosed in walls of cyclopean
masonry, built mostly without any cement, of coral rock. Over these
the limbs of the banyan project, and they are mostly fringed on top by
a growth of cactus. The entrances to their dwellings are from narrow
alleys running from the streets, and concealed by an abrupt elbow turn,
so unless you notice close, you will scarcely observe the doorway. The
streets are narrow, and laid out like those of Peking, and unpaved,
and the reception that we met with on walking them, was anything
but sociable; not that the mass of the people, who, after getting a
little over the trepidation which our unexpected arrival produced,
were not inclined to be friendly, but because of the surveillance of
their suspicious and jealous officials. On our approach the shops were
closed, and the way in front entirely deserted, while as soon as you
had passed, there was a great throng gazing at you from the rear. Those
weaving in the open air with their rude looms seizing their children
did flee. Old women, awfully ugly, with tattoed hands, hair piled on
their heads like a greasy mop, invested with a single salt-sack-looking
garment of exceeding brevity, if you came upon them would betake
themselves to flight, leaving the sharks’ meat, or vegetables, which
they might have for sale, in the market-place, or else bury their
faces in their dirty bluish tattoed hands, and so remain until you had
passed. We were forced to conclude that our presence was as moving
as that of Mr. Nicodemus in the Spectre Bridegroom; or else that an
American naval officer, if he caused those old sycoraxes to shun him,
must be ugly enough to scare a horse from his oats.

The origin of the married women tattoeing their hands, according to
Loo-Chooan story literally rendered, is this: A husband going on a
journey had an agreement with his wife for three years, but contrary
to the agreement, ten years passed before his return. Her parents
repeatedly proposed that she should change, and marry again, but she
earnestly defended her chastity, saying, “A woman should not marry two
husbands!” Still gainsaying, with blows they were forcing her to marry.
She invented a stratagem—she painted her fingers with ink; she spoiled
her beauty. Hence it must be, they say, that all women on marrying
tattoe their hands.

In our walks we always had the unsolicited company of some government
deputies. If you motioned them about anything, they were exceedingly
addicted to salaaming, by bowing and raising their hands to their
heads, but they remained exactly where they were. A rare and beautiful
flower attracted your attention, and you wished to look closer at it,
your attendant functionary pantomimically trusts that you will not
enter, but passing through the gate, or scaling the coral wall, in a
few minutes he will present you with one of the novel flowers. Should
one of your company accidentally or intentionally slip out of the
sight of these impromptu attendants, they appear most mentally troubled
till he reappears.

The policy pursued with these people was a mild but firm one. They were
asked for a house on shore that might be used as a place for our sick
to recruit. They declined; and a few days after one of our officers and
some men occupied one of their buildings in the town of Tumai, divided
from Napa by a small stream. This building had been used as a kind of
town-hall, where the chiefs assembled in council, carried thither in
sedan-chairs, encased in ratan lattices, and swung from a pole resting
on the shoulders of two serfs. The honesty of the natives was shown in
the security of clothes and everything else that might be left out;
even a boat’s anchor lost, and found by them, was returned to this
place, though they kept a spy upon its American inmates night and day.
Here, while dining with the young officer in charge, I “tried on,” with
some of the more intelligent natives, sentences in their language, from
a vocabulary which had been prepared for him, and with which he had
been able to negotiate for his daily supply of chow-chow, and eatables
for some of the ships. “Cha tooti kwoo”—tea bring to me; and “Midzoo
tooti kwoo”—water bring to me; and similar simple sentences they
understood readily; but the attempt at more complicate ones, in which
the vowel sound is dropped, rather awoke their risibles.

The authorities sent off protests against the further occupancy of the
house at Tumai, and requested that we would vacate it. They stated it
was the place they had for assembling; it was the only place they had
for meeting together to debate their local affairs, and it was also the
place where their young were taught. They also took the opportunity
of mentioning that the fertility of their island was not equal to the
wants of its population; and that every draft upon them for live-stock,
&c., was an oppression. In this there was obvious dissimulation;
because they sent away to other countries a good deal of the produce
of their land, and a great deal as tribute, while we paid well for
whatever we got. The commodore had notified them of his intention of
going up to their capital, Sheudi, distant some four miles from the
anchorage, to pay his respects to the prince-regent at the palace; they
did not covet the honor; they trusted he would not confer it.

Not far from Tumai are a number of the native tombs, beautifully
located on green hill-sides. They are large, built in the form of a
horse-shoe, with a cemented dome fronted by a little court, into which
you descend by a flight of stone steps, and are kept whitened with
great assiduity by the surviving relatives. The most attractive and
romantic spots are chosen for their location. Their reverence and care
for the homes of the dead, may well put to the blush, the wickedness
of Christian communities who make streets through graves and graveyards.

In a grove of pines, at Tumai, not far from the landing-place, is a
secluded spot, which appears to have been set aside for the interment
of foreigners. Our ships buried some of our men and one officer there.
As soon as the graves are closed the authorities cause them to be well
built over, without charge, in a parallelogram, with coral rock and
cement, leaving an inclination toward the feet that the rain may run
off. Any inscription that the friends please, may either be imbedded
in the masonry or erected at the head, which will be respected and
preserved by the natives. On copper plates, tacked on wooden crosses at
the end of some of these tombs, I read:—

“Wm. Hares, seaman in his Britannic majesty’s ship, ‘Alceste,’ aged 21
years, lies buried here, October 16th, 1816. This monument was erected
by the king and inhabitants of this most hospitable island.”

“Vive Jesus: † vive sa croix: Ci-Git Calland (Pierre Juler), second
chirurgien a bord de la corvette de Roi la _Victoriense_; mort a bord
le 16th Septembre, 1846.”

“Ci-Git Le Corps Du R’d Mathieu Adnet, Pêre Miss’re Apostolique, Fréres
du Japon, Decedé le hier J’et, 1848.”

The Loo-Chooan manner of making salt is peculiar. They clear acres of
ground in the vicinity of the water, and make it as level as possible.
During the extreme heat of the day men continue to throw into the air,
that it may descend on this level space, ladles full of salt-water.
Partial crystallization is thus produced, which unites with the sand
under foot, which, being allowed to dry, is piled up aside, and
afterward the saline matter is washed from it, filtered through straw
into earthen vessels, and then evaporated by heat. On these level
places our marine, and boat-howitzer divisions were usually landed for
drilling purposes.

You see no wheeled vehicles on the island, and one in the shape of an
ambulance-cart which the commodore had built, and once ashore there,
is, no doubt, the first that a Loo-Chooan ever looked on. Small horses,
with their untrimmed fetlocks, are the only means of conveyance from
the junks to the interior, of whatever little merchandise they now
consume. The load is placed on a rude saddle secured by girth and a
crupper of rope enveloped in bamboo-rollers like strung necklace;
and the bridle, with its head-stall of rope, has two small pieces of
wood passing on either side of the nostrils of the horse, with a cord
through them, by which he is controlled in place of a bit.

On the 6th of June, the commodore, with a suite of officers, determined
on paying an official visit to the prince-regent, at his palace at
Sheudi—a visit which the authorities had vainly endeavored to get
indefinitely postponed. They did not understand these attentions:
stretching wide their hands, they said “America was a great nation;
while Loo-Choo was no larger than the points of the fingers scarcely
separated—what does America want with Loo-Choo?” The escort, when
landed and formed at Tumai, consisted of two companies of marines
in full dress—to whom, for some purpose or other, six rounds of
ball-cartridges had been issued per man—two brass pieces and fixed
ammunition, manned by sailors, and two full bands from the Susquehanna
and Mississippi, while in front were three tall fellows carrying
the American ensign. The rear was brought up by servants carrying
some presents consisting of arms and calicoes sewed up in red cloth,
and others with chow-chow baskets. The march was over a well-paved
and graded road of coral rock. First we passed over a large terrace
overhung by enormous banyan-trees, which fronted a very thick arched
wall enclosing a temple and the tomb of some of the royal family. A
tablet standing on a large pedestal near the step of this terrace,
in native characters, warns the peasantry that when the sedan of any
high functionary rests here, that the lower classes must take the road
to the right. Sometimes we passed sugar-cane growing on one side of
the road, and on the other ingeniously-irrigated paddy-fields were
waving in green rice. The road then ascended by a grade of about seven
degrees, quite a high ridge, from which the extended prospect of
cultivation was very fine indeed. The sun came down hot, though at
times we walked under the shade of thick and pretty bamboo-hedges. The
sight was a rare one to the peasantry; some, attracted by the music and
the novelty of uniform, left their work in the fields and ran to the
eminences on the roadside, then others were alarmed and bolted; one
fellow I saw jump into a muddy stream, swim for it, and not look back
until he stood on the other side.

We reached the street leading to the palace-grounds about twelve
o’clock. This was a wide one of nicely-rolled gravel, and on either
side were walls of much height and thickness, showing smooth and
expensive masonry. In marching along this approach, we passed under
three roofed and detached gateways, built at intervals across it.
They had three distinct entrances, the widest being in the centre,
over which a red sign, with Japanese characters in gilt, had this
announcement: “This is a small island, but observes the rules of
propriety; distinguished persons will pass through the centre opening,
others will go through those at the sides.”

On arriving at the main gate of the palace, a number of the chiefs,
in their yellow and red caps, were there to receive us. Leaving the
escort outside, the commodore and suite of officers entered, and after
passing through successive courts, and up stone steps alternately to
the right and left, at a considerable elevation from the street, the
party was ushered into the hall of audience. Here were a number of
yellow and red-capped chiefs assembled. Chairs and tables for each one
of the guests were placed, and pipes, tea, and cakes, with lacquered
chop-sticks, served. When the regent—quite an old man, with long,
white beard—entered, with his councillors, he advanced and saluted the
commodore half way, insisting on rank or equality. The interview was
a short one; compliments were interchanged through Dr. Bettelheim and
Mr. S. W. Williams of Canton, when the regent was invited aboard of
the Susquehanna, when she should return to Napa, after a contemplated
absence of twelve days. The presents were then left in the middle of
the floor, and the visiting party retired. On reaching the street we
were conducted to a large hall in another part of the ground, where a
feast had been prepared for us, set out upon black lacquered tables.
The first course consisted of soups, of which there were nearly a
dozen different kinds furnished in succession, in small cup-bowls,
with porcelain spoons. There was nearly every kind from egg-soup
to “bird’s-nest.” The solids were pleasant to the taste but rather
suspicious in appearance, among which were slices of hard-boiled eggs,
so colored as to resemble sections of the uncooked tomato. Finding
that we were not able to make any progress with the black lacquered
chop-sticks which had been distributed at each one’s place, they
furnished us with little sharpened pieces of oak, with the aid of which
we did full justice to our hosts.

After strange-looking cakes had been brought, tea removed, and pipes
handed, very small porcelain cups were placed, and our honorable
red-cap attendants, who according to their custom, wait themselves
upon their guests, kept them continually filled with SAKI from silver
vessels shaped like tea-pots. This was the first taste we had of this
colorless, celebrated Japanese national beverage. It was pleasant to
the taste, and yet the after-math was not; it had some of the _goût_
of champagne, and then it was turnipy. Buckingham might be on the
seas, and then the seas might be on him; but a man could scarcely be
considered “in his cups” though a hundred cups were in him of _saki_.
Nor could he exclaim with Falstaff that the villain had put lime in his
“sack,” (did Shakespeare know Japanese?)—because the thimble-sized
tankard would not admit of it.

The commodore, through the interpreter, toasted the queen and young
prince, and hoped Loo-Chooan man and American man would always be
friends. The chiefs of course salaamed considerably to this sentiment,
but I am quite dubious whether they did not regard it as an indication
of closer proximity with these Americans, who might disturb at a future
day the _nolli me tangere_ doctrines of their country.

The feast over, the column of escort was again formed, and making the
march down to Tumai, in less time than up to Sheudi, by four o’clock,
all were aboard of their respective ships.

No more beautiful place than Sheudi, so far as verdure, elevated
situation, and attractive foliage, is concerned. Our officers took many
a tramp up there, and always with pleasure. At cool springs well cared
for they could slake their thirst; under enormous trees they could
pic-nic or _siesta_ if they chose, and afterward bathe in a walled
lake all covered over with trees. What would the palace-grounds, the
Komooe of Sheudi, be worth in this country?—no more baronial domain
in England. Should you have gone unprovided with chow-chow on these
excursions, stop at a roadside _Kunkwa_, usually adjoining some place
of worship, and the occupants will promptly give you tea and cakes, and
the examination of your strange costume, and sage queries about your
ship, is their reward for their entertainment. If it should rain during
your walk, request one of your unbidden native officer associates to
procure a papyrus parasol.

There are many things to interest an antiquarian taste, and provoke
conjecture, about Loo-Choo. At Napa there are stone-statues, eight
feet high, quite well executed, of their “far-seeing God”—there
are causeways of stone, breakwaters, forts constructed with good
engineering, and well designed and located for defence, though now
entirely disarmed; and you pass over well-arched bridges, with
neatly-cut stone balustrading, and in fine state of preservation. The
palace at Sheudi is a perfect fortress in wall and situation, and in
determined hands would laugh at a siege of many days. When were these
built?—when were these forts disarmed? As Basil Hall told Napoleon at
St. Helena, in speaking of this island, there are _point de fusils_
there now. The invocation of the Ethiopic song, “Rise, old _Napa_,
rise!” would be now of no avail.

Although a line of steamers from our Pacific coast to Shanghae, China,
on the arc of a great circle, would come nowhere nigh the group known
as the Bonin islands to the northeast of Loo-Choo, yet the commodore
still deemed it best to make a hasty reconnoissance of the harbor of
Port Lloyd, which had been surveyed some years ago by the English, who
claim sovereignty over Peel island by right of possession, though it
can be proven that it was first permanently settled by an American,
or one owing allegiance to our country; but as the whole policy of
our government has been opposed to foreign colonial possession, there
is scarcely any chance of there being any dispute about it. Mr.
English, under-secretary of state for foreign affairs, may make himself
comfortable.

On the 9th of June the Susquehanna, with the sloop-of-war Saratoga
in tow, took their departure, leaving the Mississippi, and storeship
Supply in the harbor. A few days afterward the Plymouth arrived
from north China, bringing us papers containing an account of the
presidential inauguration.

The Susquehanna and the Saratoga reached Peel island, after a pleasant
passage, on the 14th. After a stay there of four days, during which
the commodore sent parties of officers to explore the island, put a
quantity of live stock ashore in the custody of some American residents
at Port Lloyd, and also purchased an eligible lot for the government,
should it ever hereafter be required, for a coal depot, the ships
returned to Napa, bringing with them fish and turtle. They ascertained
that some twenty whalers had stopped at the island during the year for
refreshments. A parcel of long-nosed porkers turned loose by ships
passing, can only be reached by the aid of the rifle; but some of the
officers who took a crack at them, facetiously spoke in their letters
to the United States of their hunting the _wild boar_.

Von Siebold, in his history of the discoveries in the Japan seas,
says the Bonin islands were first put down on a map published by the
Dutch hydrographer, Ortelius, in 1570, and are reported as having been
discovered in 1543, by Bernardo de Torres, who named them Malonbrigo
de los Hermanos. They were visited in 1595 by Captain Linschaten, of
the Dutch East India Company, and are on the map by Hondries in 1634. A
few years after they were visited by Captains Quast and Tasman of the
same company, who were in search of the Gen and Ken, or Gold and Silver
islands. These navigators determined their position with admirable
accuracy. Mention is made of them by Vris and Schaef, of the Dutch
East India Company in 1643. In 1650 on the map of Jansomous, and in
1680 by Van Kenlen. By later authorities they are omitted, and reappear
on charts in the following century as discovered by the Spanish Admiral
Cabrera Bueno, and are called Islas del Arzobispo.

The Japanese history in the book San-kok-tou-ran-to-sito, mentions
these islands as discovered between 1592 and 1595. In 1675 a Japan
exploring expedition, specially authorized by the emperor, sailed
from Simoda, then an imperial and customhouse port, for the Bonin
islands. They were named by the Japanese the Munin Sima, and reported
as fit to be settled, and the importance of doing so was urged. The
Japanese counted more than eighty small rock islands. In 1826 they
were visited by an American whaler, Captain Coffin; in 1827, by the
Russian admiral, Lutke; and in 1828, by Capt. Beechy of the English
navy. The inhabitants at Port Lloyd, on Peel island, are about forty in
number; on the Bailey or Coffin group, there are living two families.
Nearly all these people are runaway sailors from whale-ships, who have
obtained wives from the Kanakas of the Sandwich islands, and so far as
their nationality is concerned, the Americans predominate. The oldest
settler at Port Lloyd is Nathaniel Savary, who acts as mayor of the
place, and carries out their self-made laws and regulations with the
assistance of two elders elected by a majority.

As long as the Dutch held their fort Zeelandia, on Formosa, its
position and possession gave them great advantages in the eyes of the
Japanese, but its capture, after a prolonged siege, by the Chinese
pirate chief Coshinga, had a very injurious effect with the Japanese,
diminishing their prestige and weakening belief in their naval
supremacy. It is quite desirable to know the future prospects of the
Bonin islands. The adventitious aid of their possession would prove of
great advantage in a trade with Japan, being only a distance of two
days’ steaming from Yedo.

On the 2d of July the squadron got under way for the bay of Yedo,
Japan, the “Susquehanna” towing the “Saratoga,” and the “Mississippi”
towing the “Plymouth.” The storeship “Supply” was left at the
anchorage, no doubt greatly to the regret of the natives, who, gazing
from the beach on our departure, hoped that they would not see us again.

We rounded the southern end of the island with a heavy swell on, the
southwest monsoon prevailing at the time, and were soon heading up the
Pacific.

Our patriotic remembrance of the return of our great national
anniversary was ahead of the people of our own native land; or is it
the “Fourth of July” to an American, until the sun of that day has
illumined forest, stream, and home, in his own country? At mid-day
then of our “Fourth,” when it was yet but eleven o’clock at night
of the third, in the United States the large old steamers, and the
sailing-vessels in their tow, going dead to windward, dressed with our
national ensigns, in latitude 28° 36′ north, and longitude 130° 42′
east, running nearly abreast, fired seventeen guns each, in honor of
the day; and the “main-brace” being ordered to be spliced, “Jack” had
the opportunity of remembering it in a tot of grog.

The next day, by signal from flag-ship, anchor-buoys were ordered
to be made of empty casks, the men were exercised with small arms
at target-firing, and ship’s company exercised at general and fire
quarters, previous to arriving at our port of destination.

A believer in omens would have had an opportunity of indulging his
credulity, and interpreting, if he could, the meaning of a remarkable
meteor which shot athwart the sky on the morning of the 6th of July,
and was visible from the decks of the ships, when in two days’ run of
the bay of Yedo. It appeared as large in circumference as the crown of
a man’s hat. Its body was of the brilliancy and color of molten iron,
and glowed as if heated by incandescence, emitting all the while sparks
which trailed backward in its passage, like barbs of arrows. Its tail
was of a bluish transparency, which extended into an emerald-green hue,
terminating in a fiery, smoky bulb, resembling the flame of burning
tar. When first noticed, it seemed to shoot upward from a line on a
level with our quarter-hammock netting, in the southwest, and so near
did it appear to the ship, that for an instant it was imagined to be a
rocket from the sloop-of-war Plymouth—at the time in tow of us—and
designed to attract our attention. In its passage through the heavens,
which occupied the time in which one might count thirty, it described
a parabolic curve, illuminating as it went our hurricane-deck and
wheel-houses with astonishing clearness, and on reaching a point nearly
due north, occupied by a bank of dull roseate cloud, it burst like a
rocket and disappeared, leaving those who had the good fortune to see
it uttering exclamations of admiration and wonderment, and a rather
credulous corporal of marines who happened to be going his rounds at
the time, willing to take his “corporal” oath that the brilliant body
started within a few yards of our rail. The heat of the day preceding
was very great.

Next day, being near the insular empire, target practice was continued;
old cartridges drawn, guns loaded and shotted, and preparations made
for removing the forward-rail for the clear working of our bow-guns.




CHAPTER VIII.


When day broke on the morning of the 8th July we got our first sight
of the “_terra incognita_”—the hermetic land—the land which had been
invaded but never conquered—hence called the “virgin empire.” The
high, bold shores of Japan were before us—the “kingdom of the origin
of the sun.”

Japan has been continually spoken of as the unknown land. It is
difficult to see with what correctness this designation should have
been given it, unless those countries only are known upon which the
physical eye of some numbers may have rested. Taking the extant
information at command, it can very properly be said, with Macfarlane,
that we “know more of the Japanese than we knew of the Turks a hundred
years ago;” and he might have added, than other nations knew of
America, though discovered half a century earlier than Japan.

The works on the country are numerous; among them those of the Jesuits,
and the German and Swedish medical officers of the Dutch prison factory
at Dezima. The printed data of the former, and the archives of the
Jesuit headquarters at Rome and at other places, could furnish the
earliest and most thorough information. “_Les Lettres Edifiantes et
Curieuses_,” or the pages of Charlevoix, which tell of the labors
of the Jesuit pioneer missionary in Japan, Francis Xavier,—make it
anything but an unknown land.

Then there are the books, whose size might well deter the stoutest,
but whose pages would well repay the industrious search of the
inquirer—the product of the close observation and assiduous
notation of Kœmpfer,[1] Thunberg, Siebold; and the Dezima
Opperhoofds—Titsinghe, Doeff, Meylan, and Warehouse Master Fischer,
in lesser size; the quaint accounts of old William Adams, pilot, and
Captain Saris, Englishmen; the work of the Russian Golownin, as far
as he could gather information, while undergoing his hard but perhaps
justly retributive imprisonment in Matsmai; the works of Sir Stamford
Raffles; Reports of the East India Company; the pages of the Asiatic
Journal, &c.

 [1] The work of Kœmpfer, to which reference, as to Japanese history,
 is frequently made, singular to say, was never written by him. It was
 written by one Camphay, governor-general of the Dutch East Indies, and
 at one time the superintendent of the trade in Japan. The manuscript
 was only given to Kœmpfer to bring home, and to place it in the
 archives of the Dutch East India Company at Amsterdam; but instead of
 complying with the trust, he took the pages with him to Germany, and
 kept them until he died. After his death, more than a century ago, a
 friend of his named Scheuchzer, residing in London, went immediately
 to Germany, procured the manuscript, and it was first published in
 Great Britain in English, and subsequently translated into other
 languages.


With such sources of information as these, it would be a piece of
affectation to suppose the majority of the reading community without
some knowledge of the early and past history of Japan; but for such
as may possibly have not given it any attention, it may be well to
give a hurried glance at the early history of the country, as derived
from compilations of the before-cited authorities, and also down to
the condition of the empire at the time of our visit—which is to be
found in a fine synoptical article which appeared some time since in a
foreign Quarterly Review—without further acknowledgment.

Well, then, to begin with the mythological. As the Japanese have it,
their origin was superhuman, and their primitive history is in this
wise: From primeval chaos arose a self-created supreme God, throned
in the highest heaven, to whom, with some brevity, is given the name,
_Ameno-mi-naka-nusimo-kami_. What then existed of a universe was
governed by seven celestial gods who next arose. The last of these,
not admiring the celibacy of his predecessors, with whom the goddesses
had dwelt as sisters, took unto himself a wife. The marital state, it
appears, had the effect of awakening his latent energy, and one day he
said to his spouse: “There should be somewhere a habitable earth; let
us seek it under the waters that are boiling beneath us.”

Like Ithuriel, he possessed a spear, and thrusting it into the waters
he then withdrew it. The drops which fell from the spear—which,
perhaps, was weeping the puncture which he had given the aqueous
element—like the tears of Niobe, became solidified, and thus came into
existence the present insulated empire.

Others, however, not having the fear of Japanese gods before their
eyes, have a perverseness in the belief, that the receding waters of
the deluge left bare Japan, or that it may have been since upheaved by
volcanic action from the mighty deep.

The Adam of Japan was _Ten Sio Dai Dsin_. From him sprang the nation;
though _Syn Mou_ is represented as the founder of the empire. The
physical conformation of the Japanese indicates their Mongolian origin.

The geography of the Japanese kingdom is included in a string of
islands on the northeast coast of Asia, not far distant from the main
land, commencing with the Kurile islands, a portion of which the empire
exercises sovereignty over, and extending to the straits of Van Diemen
on the south. The islands and uninhabited rocks are said to comprise
three thousand eight hundred and fifty; but Japan of the present day is
understood to include Yezo, Niphon, Kew Sew, and Sikok; among which the
principal is Niphon, Nipon, Zipon, Zipango, or Cipango, by which names
it has been called indifferently. It was for “Cipango” that Columbus
sailed from Palos, and from the masthead of the “Pinto” the western
world was first descried in 1492. Exactly fifty years afterward,
_Pinto_, a Portuguese first descried “Cipango,”—“the kingdom of the
origin of the sun.”

The authentic history of Japan commences in 660, B. C., with the first
mortal ruler, surnamed the “Divine Conqueror.” In Niphon he built him
a _dairi_, or temple-palace dedicated to the sun goddess. From him all
the _mikados_, or sovereigns, claim to descend.

These self-styled divine rulers, from ceasing to command their armies,
and intrusting military commands to kinsmen and others, came to
abdicating so early, that the heirs of their power were still mere
infants. These infants fell into the custody of others, who loved
them about as well as the Duke of Gloster did those of his brothers
he had conveyed to the Tower; and so the partisans of the legitimate
descent, and of usurpers, immersed the kingdom in a civil war. In favor
of the authority of an infant _mikado_, then threatened, came forth,
a champion named Yoritomo, who saved the throne, by his efforts, for
the imperiled juvenile sovereign, and for this service the regent
allowed the real power to remain in the hands of Yoritomo, under the
title of _sio-i-dai-ziogoon_, or “generalissimo fighting against the
barbarians.” Very soon these ziogoons, from generalissimos fighting
against barbarians, became generalissimos fighting against mikados.
They became tenants of power by will, not by courtesy; they saved
the spiritual head from overthrow, but they retained his temporal
kingdom for themselves; their offices of trust became offices of
power, and hereditarily so; and from Buddhist nunneries widows were
even called to govern for infant ziogoons. The spiritual emperor soon
became impotent in the hands of the military emperor, and the _dual_
government gradually dwindled until the accession of the plebeian—the
self-made, the Napoleon of Japan—Taico Sama, to the ziogoonship, who
died in 1598, at the age of sixty-three, after having subdued _Corea_,
curtailed the power of the princes, abolished the feudal system, and
made the _mikado_, a mikado “about nothing!”

It would, no doubt, be now entirely true to say, that the sceptre
wrenched from the mikado by the ziogoon, has in turn been wrested from
the ziogoon by a council of state, and the supreme authority of Japan
is now exercised by the president of the council, though the emperor is
the John Doe in whose name he speaks.

Kublai-khan, when he ascended the Mongol throne, determined upon an
invasion of the Japanese empire from his dependency of Kaou-le. The
better to pave the way for this proceeding, he sent an embassador with
the following letter to Japan:—

“The exalted emperor of the Mongols to the wang [king] of Niphon:—

“I am the prince of a formerly small state, to which the adjacent lands
have united themselves, and my endeavor is to make inviolable truth
and friendship reign among us. What is more, my ancestors have, in
virtue of their splendid warrant from Heaven, taken possessions of Hia
dominions. The number of the distant countries, of the remote cities,
that fear our power and love our virtue, passes computation. When I
ascended the throne, the harmless people of Kaou-le were suffering
under the calamities of war. I immediately ordered a cessation of
hostilities, recalling the troops from beyond the frontiers to the
encampment of their colors. The prince of Kaou-le and his subjects
appeared at my court to give me thanks, and I treated them kindly, as
a father treats his children. So I intend that your servants shall be
treated. Kaou-le is my eastern frontier; Niphon lies near, and has from
the beginning held intercourse with the central empire. But during my
reign, not a single envoy has appeared to open a friendly intercourse
with me. I apprehend that the state of things is not, as yet, well
known in your country, whereupon I send envoys, with a letter, to make
you acquainted with my views, and I hope we may understand each other.
Already philosophers desire to see the whole world form one family. But
how may this one-family principle be carried into effect, if friendly
intercourse subsist not between the parties? I am resolved to call this
principle into existence, even should I be obliged to do so by force
of arms. It is now the business of the _wang_ of Niphon to decide what
course is most agreeable to him.”

A contemptuous silence was the only answer that the Japanese returned
to this demand. The _ziogoon_ went immediately to work to put their
coasts in a state of defence, while the _mikado_ had stated prayers
offered up.

The invaders, a hundred thousand strong, came as “the winds come when
forests are rended,” and by the winds, as they came, their “navies
were stranded.” The necks of those who escaped from shipwreck were
severed by the Japanese blades, and three alone were spared to bear
back to their country and the summer-state lord of Xanadu, the tale of
disaster, and the fate of his armada. This was in October of the year
1280.

Of the advent of the Jesuits in Japan, three hundred years afterward,
and the simultaneous commencement of commercial intercourse by the
Portuguese; the butchery of the Christians at Simbara, (which, to
their eternal infamy be it said, was assisted by the Dutch,) and
the expulsion of the Portuguese; of the subsequent and continued
intercourse of the Dutch; and the repulse of other Europeans and
Americans, at later times, in their attempt to open a trade, down to
1837, there is no room to speak in these pages. In the introduction
to the “Voyages of the Morrison and Himmaleh,” by C. W. King, the
first of which ships was fired upon and driven from Japan in 1837, the
history of foreign intercourse is given in a succinct form; or more
elaborately in book i. of Macfarlane.

The population of Japan has been both over and under estimated;
absurdly by the Russian captain Golownin, who estimated that of Yedo
alone, from what he heard, at eight millions. It can be but intelligent
speculation after all; and is no doubt most accurately stated when
it is put down as somewhat exceeding that of Great Britain. The best
information I could gain, as to the population of the city of Yedo, on
the occasion of the Mississippi’s third and last visit to Japan, was
that it numbered between fifteen and sixteen hundred thousand.

I can not better close this hurried chapter than by giving short
extracts from two prominent English writers, published before our
sailing from the United States, and containing their speculations and
reflections, which it is well to contrast subsequently, with the result
of the American expedition.

The first says:—

“In every case we earnestly hope that the American expedition may
be conducted with firmness, but also with prudence and gentleness.
Should our very enterprising and energetic brethren begin with a too
free use of bowie-knives and Colt’s revolvers, the history of their
mission will all be written in characters of blood; slaughters and
atrocities will be committed, and an interesting people will be plunged
back into complete barbarity. Though unable to contend in the field
even with a small disciplined force well provided with artillery, and
good artillerymen, the Japanese, if we are correctly informed as to
their character, will brave death and die in heaps. We would not make
any positive assertion, but we apprehend the Americans will find that
little or nothing can be done by negotiation. Should force be resorted
to, the best means of proceeding would probably be to take possession
of one of the smaller islands, or of some peninsular or promontory that
might be easily fortified on the land side. A line of intrenchments
sufficiently strong to keep off any native force, might soon be made,
and easily strengthened afterward. On this strong basis negotiation
might probably be carried on with a better chance of success.”

The latter says:—

“Strange and singular as everything we have heard about Japan
undoubtedly is, nothing is so strange or so singular as the
determination of the inhabitants to resist all intercourse with their
fellow-creatures, except it be the fact that they have been able to
act upon the resolution with effect during two centuries. It is this
consideration which sheds a tinge of romance about the operations
of the American squadron. The attack upon Japan is more than an
expedition, it is an adventure. In the midst of the all-absorbing
prose of the every-day world we suddenly feel as if we were at once
transported to the domain of Ariosto and knight-errantry. The founders
of the system did ill to enlist against their cause the principle of
curiosity, the most constant and powerful impulse of frail humanity.
Let the plainest woman in the three kingdoms cover her face with a
thick brown veil, and appear to shun observation and she will soon be
followed by an inquisitive crowd. The flavor of forbidden fruit has
smacked racily on mortal lips from the days of Eve downward. Be the
impulse right or wrong it exists, and as it will most surely be acted
on, it must not be ignored. The affair, however, is one of far too
vital importance to be treated in a light or jesting spirit, for we
have every reason to suppose, and to fear, that the resistance of the
Japanese to the invaders will be of the most determined character.
Great bloodshed and great misery will probably precede the opening up
of Japan. However necessary, and however justifiable such a step may
be, we are not of those who can contemplate the slaughter of a gallant
people, however mistaken their cause, without a pang of regret.”




CHAPTER IX.


Before reaching the bay of Yedo, sounding-spars had been rigged out
from the end of the bowsprit of each steamer, from which depended
sounding-leads, that were kept constantly going as well as the leadsmen
in the “chains.” As previous knowledge of the water was rather
defective, the ships proceeded in with caution. The sweep of the bay is
a noble one, as you approach, and the morning being a clear and lovely
one, every object, from the strange-looking crafts coming continually
in sight, to the summits of the high shores, and bold bluffs, were
sharply defined. Then too, simultaneously with our first sight of
the _nolli me tangere_, we got our first sight of _the_ mountain of
Japan—_Foogee Yama_.

Perhaps the incidents which transpired during our first short visit to
Japan, can be better conveyed by giving them as jotted down at the time.

_July 8._—Ship cleared for action; fore and bow-rails and iron
stancheons taken down and stowed away; ports let down, guns
run out into position and shotted. Flag-ship made signal,
“Have no communication with shore; allow none from shore.” Nine
o’clock—standing up the outer bay of Yedo; a number of Japanese junks
in sight. Smaller boats, in considerable numbers, making for the
ships, and crossing their bows; but the sight of the revolving-wheels
makes them haul up, and they give us a wide berth as we hold our way
past them. To those in the boats who never before saw a steamship,
particularly two large war-steamers, towing sloops-of-war through the
water at a fast rate, how wonderful must be the sight! As the ships
approached the town of Uragawa, or Uraga (about three o’clock), a fort,
situated on a high hill, sent up a shell high into the air; and in
a little while after we heard the explosion of another. As they did
not appear to be aimed at us, but probably intended as signals, or to
warn us not to come to anchor in their bay, we kept on. A few moments
after stopping our wheels, long sharp-built boats of pine, fastened
with copper, and ornamented at the prow with a black tassel, that had
not been previously observed under the shadow of a high bluff, swarmed
off under oar and sail, and surrounded the ships. They were all fully
manned with men in uniform, and an old chap leaned over a rail in the
stern. One of the boats that reached us first, contained a mandarin
with two swords, who shook a letter at us, and then attempted to
board us on the port bow, but the presentation of a loaded musket, by
a sentinel, made him think a little while about it. He became much
enraged, turned almost white with anger, his crew keeping up the while
an awful pow-wow and noise; and, with them, he tries to board again,
where our rail was down, but a division of pikes staring them in the
face, and a steamer’s wheels kept revolving (rather ugly things for a
boat to get under), made them adjourn their determination. Drifting
aft to our port-gangway and finding the prospect no better, he put
off for shore, pointing to, and motioning that we must not let go our
anchor, drawing and sheathing his swords, and holding up a letter.
(One of these letters was thrown aboard of the Plymouth, written in
French and Dutch, warning us, if we anchored there, we did it at our
“peril.”) But our ships went in under their guns and let go their
anchors, forming a line broadside to shore, as previously ordered by
diagram from Commodore Perry. Boats continued to circle around us, the
occupants of some of them appearing to be making drawings of us, but
they took care to keep at a respectable distance. In the evening, the
lieutenant-governor of the province, Kayama Yesaimon, came off in a
boat with streamers, and his rank being announced, he was allowed to
come on board the flag-ship. The commodore would not receive him, but
turned him over to his flag-lieutenant. In the meantime they commenced
the formation of a cordon of boats around the ships. The Japanese
functionary was first asked why this was being done. He said it was
Japanese “custom.” He was at once told that it was an _American_
“custom” not to allow any such thing; that these boats must be sent
away, not only from the flag, but the other ships; and if not away in
fifteen minutes, they would be fired into. The boats left for shore.
The governor wished to know what these ships had come there for. He was
told that our commodore had a letter from our chief magistrate to his
emperor. He said that their laws would only allow them to receive the
letter at Nangasaki; that he would inform the authorities at Yedo of
the arrival of the ships and of the letter; and that it would be four
days before any answer could be received. The commodore directed it to
be told him that he would wait three days and a half, and if, at the
end of that time, there was not some one to receive our president’s
letter, that with five hundred men he would land, and deliver the
letter himself. The governor then went ashore. In the evening the
steam-chimney was ordered to be kept protected; no coal to be taken
from the bunkers so as to expose the engines; steam to be kept up, and
every suitable person on board ship directed to stand strict guard
during the night, armed with cutlass, carbine, &c., and blue and red
signal lights agreed upon between the ships, to be hoisted upon the
appearance of any burning junks sent down upon us, or other danger
during the night.

_July 9._—Still at anchor off the harbor and town of Uraga, each
ship with springs on her cable. Uraga is the seaport of Yedo, and
said to contain twenty thousand inhabitants. Innumerable junks, with
white-laced sails, have been continually arriving and departing since
we have been here, having to be examined by officers of the customs,
both going up and coming down. We can only see a portion of the town,
the remainder being shut in by the narrow entrance to its harbor.
During my mid-watch, last night, the Japanese ashore were striking,
at intervals, a sweet and deep-toned bell, probably as a tocsin;
while from the stern of each of the immense number of boats, anchored
side by side, in shore, shone bright lights through lanterns of every
color, making one long necklace of light, in front of the town of
Humai, situated in the midst of forts and water-batteries. At sunrise,
through a spy-glass could be discerned a number of fortifications along
shore, extending up to a point which marks the entrance to the inner
bay. There was also visible a number of long striped-cloth curtains,
containing armorial figures of the different princes of the empire,
the encampment of whose soldiers they are designed to mark out. The
soldiers, like those previously seen in the boats, wear loose sacks of
red, green, or blue, unconfined in front, and having in white on their
backs the insignia of the prince whom they serve. There was a great
deal of marching and countermarching, with gay banners, &c., between
the different forts. The calibre of the guns in the embrasures, could
not be made out, being kept under cover, or, as the sailors say, in
“petticoats.” On a very well-designed fort, circular in plan, intended
to protect the entrance to the harbor of Uraga, were a number of the
natives at work. About nine o’clock, boats well-armed were sent from
each ship, with lead-lines, to ascertain the depth of water between
the ships and the shore. These boats pulled as high as the upper fort,
where the uppermost one was surrounded by Japanese guard-boats, who
ordered them back, but did not attempt anything else, some of our oars
being trailed, and the curtains over the muskets raised up for their
edification. Our boats paid no further attention to them, but continued
to stand in and pull close down the shore, getting soundings as they
went, and at the same time making a rather bold reconnoissance of their
guns and forts, who did not fire upon them, as many watching from the
ships, at one time thought they would do.

_July 10_—SUNDAY.—A number of boats came off and rowed around the
ship; troops, apparently, collecting on shore. Japanese at work on a
fort just opposite to us. Weather clear. The steep shores, well-wooded,
looking fine as they are brightened by the sun-light. Evening—A whale
blowed not far from the ship. Foogee Yama obscured by cloud. During the
day, the capstan having been dressed as usual, and books distributed,
the chaplain gave out the hymn, commencing commencing—

    “Before Jehovah’s awful throne,
    Ye nations, bow with sacred joy,”

and with the aid of many of the fine voices of the crew, and the
assistance of the bass instruments of the band, in sight of heathen
temples, and, perhaps, in the hearing of their worshippers, swelled up
“Old Hundred” like a deep diapason of old ocean.

_July 11._—By order of the commodore, the Mississippi was ordered to
get under way, and stood up the straits, following slowly after our
boats sent to sound the inner bay, to ascertain the practicability of
reaching the capital, our present anchorage being twenty-five miles
from the city of Yedo. Passed close in under the chief fort, on the
point beyond which no “barbarian” ship had ever been permitted to go.
Fort did not fire. On debouching we entered a magnificent bay, of great
extent, bounded on its western side by picturesque slopes, bold bluffs,
with here and there a village between them, deeply indented coves,
and a well-wooded island, crowned with a three-gun battery, which
on our survey chart was called “Perry island.” Our boats continued
to sound ahead during the day, the Japanese guard-boats enveloping
them and attempting to impede their progress by getting across their
track, but attempted nothing further. Two little brass howitzers, on
each of our forward guards, loaded with grape and cannister, would
probably have caused some dancing among them if they had. On the east
of us, on a long low sand beach, through a spy-glass could be seen an
encampment of Japanese troops, near a breastwork, dressed in black
figured clothes, and surmounted with banners. This was probably an
“army of observation.” We continued to hold our way up the bay until
a late hour, as far as a high bluff of clay-stone, which was named
“Mississippi bluff,” as a token that it was nearer to the palace of
the ziogoon of Japan than any foreign ship had ventured to go before.
Our boats were then taken in tow, and we started on our return to the
anchorage we had left in the morning. A two-sworded mandarin attempted
to make his boat fast to one of our boats astern, that he might get
a tow back, and I was surprised to hear him ask in English, “Are you
going back?” The sailors in the boats were ordered to cut his line if
he made fast to them. He was much angered as our wheels left him in the
distance. We regarded his proposition for a tow, as cool as a fellow
who would play spy on you all day, and then ask you to take him home in
a carriage at night. On our way back we passed through a flotilla of
their boats, when our chief engineer opened our steam-whistle. Never
were human beings more astounded, when the unearthly noise reached
their ears, the fellows at the sculls dropped their oars and stood
aghast. To all of the day’s doings the inhabitants of the different
towns, and the troops strung along shore, have been constant and
watchful observers. They could not understand what our movements meant.
Jonathan’s boldness had dumbfounded them.

_July 12._—Governor of Uraga came aboard and urged Nangasaki as the
proper place at which Japan could receive foreign communications.
Commodore Perry replied that his government had sent him to _Yedo_,
and that he would go nowhere else to deliver his letter. The Japanese
officials then pretended to hold a conference ashore, and afterward
brought off word that they would receive the letter at a point which
they would make known. It was afterward arranged that the reception
of the letter was to be by a high officer, sent from the capital for
the especial purpose; the place, a bay below the town of Uraga, and
that it would take two days for them to get up a building for the
ceremony. They said they had selected this spot for its privacy,
that their rabble population might not be present; and as the whole
thing was without precedent with them, and against their laws;—also,
probably, because they did not wish us to get a sight of their towns,
or a nearer view of their forts. The governor and his two interpreters
at this interview remained aboard some time, and were very observant
of everything, and evinced more information than could have been
expected. The engine-room astonished them, though with Japanese
self-possession they concealed much. They laughed, and were untiring
in their attention to cherry brandy. On being shown a daguerreotype,
they immediately called its name. On a globe they pointed out Boston,
New York, Philadelphia, New Orleans, &c.; gave the boundaries of
Mexico, and said our country had a part of Mexico; if our mission was
a peaceful one, why did we have _four_ ships-of-war to bring _one_
letter? (Commodore told them that it was a greater compliment to their
emperor—probably!) Wished to know why the steam-vessel “Mississippi”
went up the inner bay so far? It was replied that the commodore had
more ships in these waters, and if they should render it necessary that
they would all come with him, the next time he came; he desired an
anchorage less exposed than the one we were then lying at.

_July 13._—Some little suspicion of treachery ashore; much conference
going on among chief mandarins. Boats were sent from the ships to go
and sound off the mouth of the appointed place, to see whether any
of the ships could get in sufficiently near to cover and protect the
landing of the boats; orders issued prescribing who were to compose the
landing party; some will have to stay on board the ships; poor fellows!
Bad day for Japanese to-morrow, if they attempt with us the treacherous
game that they played upon Golownin:—

 “_The Americans must not quit their wooden walls._”—LONDON PRESS.

_July 14._—Bright and beautiful day. Much activity and preparation for
the landing; boats being lowered away, percussion-caps distributed,
and twenty rounds of ball-cartridges delivered to each man; officers
rigging in undress uniforms, and arming mostly with cutlasses and
Colt’s six-shooters. Quartermasters fastening American ensigns on
pikes. General orders received early in the morning. The Susquehanna
and Mississippi will anchor in the position assigned them. The Plymouth
will retain her present position, and the Saratoga to get into her
berth if possible, but not to get out of range of the forts and town.
The ships will watch the proceedings on shore, having their guns primed
and pointed, and their remaining boats alongside, with arms in them,
ready in a moment to shove ashore, if the commanding officers think
there is need of them. The boats which carry the officers, sailors,
and marines on shore, are all to have anchors, and after landing their
respective crews, are to haul off about fifty feet from shore and
anchor, keeping their men at their arms and watching the proceedings on
shore, and if they are called on shore the officers of the boats will
land with all but two men, who are to be left as boat-keepers; bread
and water in the boats. At daybreak the Susquehanna and Mississippi
steam-frigates tripped their anchors, dropped down, and anchored
immediately across the entrance of the bay where we were to land, to
protect and cover the landing, having springs on their cables, that
their broadside of guns might be trained on the shore. The sloop-of-war
Plymouth commanded the town of Uraga, and the Saratoga, that of Humai,
and the forts surrounding it. At nine o’clock, our boats armed and
manned, went alongside of the flag-ship, where were the boats of the
Saratoga and Plymouth. After some delay the boats moved ashore. The
captain of the Susquehanna and officers, leading; Captain Walker of the
Saratoga and officers next, then the Mississippi’s boats, in the first
of which I was, under Lieutenant Taylor. Following in line came the
remaining boats of all the ships, with sailors, marines, two bands, &c.

The place selected by the Japanese for the delivery of the letter,
was a bay of some mile and a quarter in depth, surrounded by an
amphitheatre of bold hills, its entrance being narrow, and defended
by forts on either side. At the head of this bay, following the line
of a crescent beach of black and white sand, ankle-deep, is the town
of Gorihama. In the distance, with its veil of blue, and patches of
snow, towering up fifteen thousand feet, shone the extinct volcano
of Foogee. The boats, as they pulled in, presented a fine sight; the
“flower-flag,” as the Chinese call it, waving gracefully from the
stern of each boat; the bright muskets shining in the sun, and the
epaulettes glistening. The landing was done in fine order, and with
great promptitude, under the command of Major Zeilen, of the marine
corps. Each man, as the boat touched the beach, jumped ashore, and
took his proper place in line, which, when formed, presented a bold
front, notwithstanding officers and men all told, it scarcely exceeded
four hundred men; and encircling them a few paces in rear, and as far
as one could see, on either hand, in horse-shoe form, were Japanese
troops, who had been collected there for the occasion, armed with
spears and bows, long bayonet brass-mounted muskets, and matchlocks,
with ready fuses, coiled on their right arms. In their front,
equi-distant, sat their officers on stools, armed with two swords. Near
by, not very large, were a number of horses richly caparisoned about
the head, and with gaudy housings, belonging to the officers. Extending
all around were canvass curtains supported by stakes driven in the
ground, with different insignias painted on the front, and festooned
with blue cords and tassels; at the termination of each one floated the
colored flag of each particular prince, whose men were present. The
shining and gilded lacquered broadbrims of the Japanese; the varied
costumes, brilliant colors, flapping flags, and curtain enclosures, all
overhung by a dense green of trees, as the eye took them in, made one
think that he had come to be a spectator of some joust or tourney. The
Japanese say they had five thousand men present, but I hardly think
there were as many, unless some were hid in the town, whose houses in
our direction were concealed behind temporary walls of thatching straw.

A salute of thirteen guns from the flag-ship, which caused some little
stir among the Japanese troops, who did not seem exactly to understand
it, announced that the commodore and his immediate suite had left,
in his barge, for shore. In a little while he landed on a small
jutty, made of rice-straw and sand, passing through a street formed
of his own officers, to his place in line, when the squadron band
struck up “Hail Columbia” in a style, and with a force that made the
Japanese open their ears (they may have to listen to it again), and
the hills around sent each note of “Hail Columbia” back again. “Hail
Columbia” never sounded better. The column of escort with the marines
in front, a stalwart sailor with the broad pennant; commodore and
staff; suite of officers; boxes containing president’s letter, &c.; two
men over six feet high, each, with pikes upon which American ensigns
were fastened, with revolving rifles slung across their shoulders;
sailors with bronzed muskets; Mississippi’s band, &c.; and marines
then marched to the building for the ceremony; shown the way by two
Japanese officials. The sailors were in blue trousers and white frocks,
prettily bisected with the slings of their cartridge boxes, and wore
blue cloth caps, with bands of red, white, and blue, ornamented with
thirteen stars in white. The marines were in full uniform. The room
of ceremony was reached by passing through a small canopied court;
enclosed with primitive landscape screens, the floor of which was
covered with matting. The place of audience was a room in a thatched
building, limited in space, and entirely open in the direction of the
court, ornamented with gauze curtains as drapery. At the back of
the room were representations of shrubbery, and of cranes wheeling
in flight over it, while on the two remaining sides, were hung large
blue flags, having in the centre one large and eight smaller satellite
representations. Overhead you looked up to thatching, and each rafter
was marked with Japanese characters, as if the building had been
originally constructed at some other place, probably at Yedo, and sent
down for erection. On the left of the room as you entered by ascending
one step, was seated the chief Japanese functionary, appointed by the
emperor to receive the president’s letter, the prince of Idzoo; beside
him was the prince of the province of Iwami; behind him quite a number
of two-sworded mandarins. The chief man was attired in a maroon silk
robe, with an over-garment of red, blue cloth socks, with places left
for the great toe. On the back of the red over-garment, were figures
worked in white, some resembling cornucopias. His suite were attired in
the same manner with slight exceptions. On the other side of the room
were placed ornamental chairs, with well-designed arm-rests, in which
were seated Commodore Perry and suite.

Dr. Williams, of Canton, was present as interpreter of the Japanese
language; although his services were not called into requisition. Mr.
A. L. C. Portman, the commodore’s clerk, as it was most agreeable to
the Japanese, acted as interpreter in the Dutch language. The floor
of the chamber was covered with mats, having spread over them in the
centre of the room, cloths resembling red felt blankets, indifferently
dyed. After the manner of the Japanese, two interpreters were in
attendance on the prince, one of them squatted on the floor near our
interpreter, partially facing the chief and another (Kayama Yesaimon,
governor of Uraga) on his haunches immediately in front of him. Midway,
in rear of the room, was placed a brightly-lacquered red chest,
resting upon eight feet, with its deep and projecting lid, confined by
tasselled cords of blue. The gilt ornamental design in front resembled
the rose of the Gothic style. The officers of the ships occupied the
court facing the platform.

Everything being announced ready, and obeisance interchanged between
the prince and commodore, beautiful rosewood-boxes, hinged, clamped,
and clasped with gold, having inscriptions with German-text letters,
let in with gold on their tops, which had been carried by side-boys,
were then brought in, and displayed upon the chest. Mr. Portman opened
them to assure the Japanese of the presence of the letters; and the
interpreter was directed to inform the prince, which was done, one
interpreter whispering to the other, that in the boxes were also
translations of our president’s letter, in Dutch and Chinese. The
credentials from the emperor empowering the prince of Idzoo to receive
the letter, were then handed over by the prince, and taken charge of
by the flag-lieutenant, having been duly examined the day before on
shipboard. The letter of the president was as follows:—

     _MILLARD FILLMORE_,
    PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA,
              TO HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY,
     _THE EMPEROR OF JAPAN_.

  _Great and Good Friend!_

 I send you this public letter by Commodore Matthew C. Perry, and
 officer of highest rank in the Navy of the United States, and
 commander of the squadron now visiting your Imperial Majesty’s
 dominions.

 I have directed Commodore Perry to assure your Imperial Majesty that
 I entertain the kindest feelings toward your Majesty’s person and
 government; and that I have no other object in sending him to Japan,
 but to propose to your Imperial Majesty that the United States and
 Japan should live in friendship, and have commercial intercourse with
 each other.

 The constitution and laws of the United States forbid all interference
 with the religious or political concerns of other nations. I have
 particularly charged Commodore Perry to abstain from every act which
 could possibly disturb the tranquillity of your Imperial Majesty’s
 dominions.

 The United States of America reach from ocean to ocean, and our
 territory of Oregon and state of California lie directly opposite to
 the dominions of your Imperial Majesty. Our steamships can go from
 California to Japan in eighteen days.

 Our great state of California produces about sixty millions of dollars
 in gold, every year, besides silver, quicksilver, precious stones,
 and many other valuable articles. Japan is also a rich and fertile
 country, and produces many very valuable articles. Your Imperial
 Majesty’s subjects are skilled in many of the arts. I am desirous that
 our two countries should trade with each other, for the benefit both
 of Japan and the United States.

 We know that the ancient laws of your Imperial Majesty’s government do
 not allow of foreign trade except with the Dutch. But as the state of
 the world changes, and new governments are formed, it seems to be wise
 from time to time to make new laws. There was a time when the ancient
 laws of your Imperial Majesty’s government were first made.

 About the same time, America, which is sometimes called the New World,
 was first discovered and settled by the Europeans. For a long time
 there were but a few people, and they were poor. They have now become
 quite numerous; their commerce is very extensive; and they think that
 if your Imperial Majesty were so far to change the ancient laws as to
 allow a free trade between the two countries, it would be extremely
 beneficial to both.

 If your Imperial Majesty is not satisfied that it would be safe,
 altogether, to abrogate the ancient laws which forbid foreign trade,
 they might be suspended for five or ten years, so as to try the
 experiment. If it does not prove as beneficial as was hoped, the
 ancient laws can be restored. The United States often limit their
 treaties with foreign states to a few years, and then renew them or
 not, as they please.

 I have directed Commodore Perry to mention another thing to your
 Imperial Majesty. Many of our ships pass every year from California to
 China; and great numbers of our people pursue the whale fishery near
 the shores of Japan. It sometimes happens in stormy weather that one
 of our ships is wrecked on your Imperial Majesty’s shores. In all such
 cases we ask and expect, that our unfortunate people should be treated
 with kindness, and that their property should be protected, till we
 can send a vessel and bring them away. We are very much in earnest in
 this.

 Commodore Perry is also directed by me to represent to your Imperial
 Majesty that we understand there is a great abundance of coal and
 provisions in the empire of Japan. Our steamships, in crossing the
 great ocean, burn a great deal of coal, and it is not convenient to
 bring it all the way from America. We wish that our steamships and
 other vessels should be allowed to stop in Japan and supply themselves
 with coal, provisions, and water. They will pay for them, in money,
 or anything else your Imperial Majesty’s subjects may prefer; and we
 request your Imperial Majesty to appoint a convenient port in the
 southern part of the empire, where our vessels may stop for this
 purpose. We are very desirous of this.

 These are the only objects for which I have sent Commodore Perry with
 a powerful squadron to pay a visit to your Imperial Majesty’s renowned
 city of Yedo: friendship, commerce, a supply of coal, and provisions
 and protection for our shipwrecked people.

 We have directed Commodore Perry to beg your Imperial Majesty’s
 acceptance of a few presents. They are of no great value in
 themselves, but some of them may serve as specimens of the articles
 manufactured in the United States, and they are intended as tokens of
 our sincere and respectful friendship.

 May the Almighty have your Imperial Majesty in his great and holy
 keeping!

 In witness whereof I have caused the great seal of the United States
 to be hereunto affixed, and have subscribed the same with my name,
 at the city of Washington in America, the seat of my government, on
 the thirteenth day of the month of November, in the year one thousand
 eight hundred and fifty-two.

                     _Your Good Friend_,
                              MILLARD FILLMORE.
      _By the President._
  EDWARD EVERETT,
        _Secretary of State_.

Accompanying this letter was one from Commodore Perry, merely repeating
the language embraced in the instructions from the secretary of state:—

  TO HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY,
           _THE EMPEROR OF JAPAN_.

 The undersigned, Commander-in-chief of all the naval forces of the
 United States of North America, stationed in the East India, China,
 and Japan seas, has been sent by his government to this country on a
 friendly mission, with ample powers to negotiate with the government
 of Japan, touching certain matters which have been fully set forth in
 the letter of the President of the United States; copies of which,
 together with copies of the letter of credence of the undersigned, in
 the English, Dutch, and Chinese languages, are herewith transmitted.


 The original of the President’s letter, and of the letter of credence,
 prepared in a manner suited to the exalted station of your Imperial
 Majesty, will be presented by the undersigned, in person, when it may
 please your Majesty to appoint a day for his reception.

 The undersigned has been commanded to state that the President
 entertains the most friendly feelings toward Japan, but has been
 surprised and grieved to learn that when any of the people of the
 United States go of their own accord, or are thrown by the perils
 of the sea, within the dominions of your Imperial Majesty, they are
 treated as if they were your worst enemies. The undersigned refers to
 the cases of the American ships ‘Morrison,’‘Ladoga,’ and ‘Lawrence.’

 With the Americans, as indeed with all Christian people, it is
 considered a sacred duty to receive with kindness, and to succor and
 protect all, of whatever nation, who may be cast upon their shores;
 and such has been the course of the Americans, with respect to all
 Japanese subjects who have fallen under their protection.

 The government of the United States desires to obtain from that of
 Japan, some positive assurance that persons who may be hereafter
 shipwrecked on the coast of Japan, or driven by stress of weather into
 her ports, shall be treated with humanity.

 The undersigned is commanded to explain to the Japanese that the
 United States are connected with no government in Europe, and that
 their laws do not interfere with the religion of their own citizens,
 much less with that of other nations.

 That they inhabit a great country which lies directly between Japan
 and Europe, and which was discovered by the nations of Europe about
 the same time that Japan herself was first visited by Europeans;
 that the portion of the American continent lying nearest to Europe,
 was first settled by emigrants from that part of the world; that its
 population has rapidly spread through the country until it has reached
 the shores of the Pacific ocean; that we have now large cities, from
 which, with the aid of steam-vessels, we can reach Japan in eighteen
 or twenty days; that our commerce with all this region of the globe is
 rapidly increasing, and the Japanese seas will soon be covered with
 our vessels.

 Therefore as the United States and Japan are becoming every day
 nearer and nearer to each other, the President desires to live in
 peace and friendship with your Imperial Majesty; but no friendship can
 long exist unless Japan ceases to act toward Americans as if they were
 her enemies.

 However wise this policy may originally have been, it is unwise and
 impracticable, now that the intercourse between the two countries is
 so much more easy and rapid than it formerly was.

 The undersigned holds out all these arguments, in the hope that the
 Japanese government will see the necessity of averting unfriendly
 collision between the two nations, by responding favorably to the
 propositions of amity, which are now made in all sincerity.

 Many of the large ships-of-war destined to visit Japan, have not
 yet arrived in these seas, though they are hourly expected; and the
 undersigned, as an evidence of his friendly intentions, has brought
 but four of the smaller ones, designing, should it become necessary,
 to return to Yedo in the ensuing spring, with a much larger force.

 But it is expected that the government of your Imperial Majesty
 will render such return unnecessary by acceding at once to the very
 reasonable and pacific overtures contained in the President’s letter,
 and which will be further explained by the undersigned on the first
 fitting occasion.

 With the most profound respect for your Imperial Majesty, and
 entertaining a sincere hope that you may long live to enjoy health and
 happiness, the undersigned subscribes himself,

                           (_Signed_) M. C. PERRY,
                  _Commander-in-chief of the United States Naval Forces
                        in the East India, China, and Japan seas._

   U. S. Steam-Frigate Susquehanna,
  Off the coast of Japan, July 7, 1853.

A brief pause followed the delivery of the letters, the Japanese
appearing dispirited, and their prince as if the day’s doings might
result to him in being compelled to perform the “Happy Despatch” of
his country; the commodore directed the interpreter to say, that as
it would take some time to deliberate on the letter of the president,
he should not wait for an answer, but would return in the spring; that
he would leave in a few days for Canton, by way of the great Loo-Choo
island, and would be happy to take any commands they might have. Owing
to our pronunciation of the word “Loo-Choo,” perhaps, they did not
seem to understand the latter part of this. The interpreter was then
directed to tell them, that China was now in a state of revolution;
that the rebels had taken Nanking, Ningpo, Amoy, and Cheang-foo. The
Japanese interpreter, apparently for himself, asked what was the
cause of the revolution. The commodore commenced a reply by saying,
“Religion,” then correcting himself, said “Dissatisfaction with the
government on the part of the people.” The interpreter reflected
awhile, and then said he could not say anything to his prince about
revolutions, but could only speak about the letter. The governor of
Uraga then rose, placed the president’s letter in the lacquered chest,
and tied the cords; then, turning, bowed very low, intimating that the
audience was concluded; the prince rising and saluting as we retired.

The column of escort then reformed, and returned to the beach where we
landed, in the same order in which we had come, passing down the front
of the line of Japanese soldiers, many a scowling fellow meanwhile
looking daggers at us; and their officers, affecting an indifference
to the scene, which they could not have felt, perhaps thinking how
agreeable a thing it would be, to hold one of those Americans on the
end of one of their blades, as a fork, and hack him with the other as a
knife; if they only dared to try. So closed the day that is to mark the
opening of Japan to the world. America has said, “Open, sesame!”

I said to Major Zeilen, of the marine corps (a fine old soldier),
the day before we landed, “Well, major, they have our cages ashore?”
“No, sir; no caging to-morrow,” said he, “it will be fight to the
death!” Our men marched past the Japanese troops with the greatest
indifference, making such remarks as, “Jack, give us a chaw of
tobacco.” “Robinson,” said the officer of the deck to a six-foot
quartermaster who was to carry an American ensign, “don’t you let them
take that away from you, to-day.” Robinson said, “Well, sir, they may
do it, but the man who takes it _won’t be able to carry it after_ he
gets it.”

In the afternoon, of the day of the landing, the steamers got underway,
passed the point or “Rubicon Fort,” as it was named, and went into
anchorage in the inner bay, which had been sounded out by boats under
cover of the Mississippi, three days before. In doing so we got the
best view of the line of fortifications, which extend from a point on
the western side, marking the narrowest part of the outer, or entrance
to the inner bay, down to the city of Uraga. The first fort, built
very well, was a kind of curtain-wall with four embrasures, fronted
by an artificial plateau sloping to the water’s edge, and protected
in the rear by a deep triangular excavation in high sandstone, whose
sides sloped to the area below, and must have been made after much
labor. This contained a barrack building, and the entrance was by a
narrow “grotto pausilipo,” cut through a hill behind. Next, in a small
indentation in the shore, was a circular fort, not very extensive,
containing houses for troops, and having guns in barbette. The third
was on a small circular promontory of some size. The space fortified
was mostly occupied by a steep wedge-shaped hill, and was pierced for
four guns. The fourth, divided from the third by a small town, as the
third was divided from the second, was a rampart of earth and masonry,
with a parapet, built across a narrow gorge, surmounted by a high
hill with a small crown-battery, from which the shells were fired on
our arrival. The principal and best fort, of some dimension, not yet
completed, was situated on the north side of the entrance to the harbor
of Uraga. This battery was placed some eighty feet above the water,
the Japanese having no doubt learned, from their Dutch _confreres_,
that during a calm, at this elevation, they might, by a ricochet-shot,
reach the ships of an enemy even seven hundred yards distant. They had
also cut into perpendicular steps the ground between this fort and the
water, that shot may be stopped in ricochet firing, and their effect
lessened if not destroyed. There were no crown batteries visible. Their
guns were under cover, and their calibre could not be ascertained,
but it is doubtful whether they were of the calibre to render harbor
defences efficient.

As soon as the tide served, after our anchoring in the inner bay, the
Saratoga and Plymouth got underway, stood up and joined us.

The next day the commodore came aboard of the Mississippi, when his
broad-pennant was hoisted, the anchor hove up, and with boats ahead
to make soundings, we stood up the bay, running nearer to the great
capital of the empire than ship of any foreigner had gone before.
The Japanese troops on shore kept watch on our movements, and their
guard-boats rowed up in company with ours, but did not attempt to
impede or molest them. Having gone up and made soundings, and a
reconnoissance, until the water began to shoal, we put the ship about
and returned to where we had left the Susquehanna. In the evening a
Japanese functionary who had been looking with much solicitude upon our
movements, went on board of the flag-ship, and said, “He hoped we would
not attempt to go up their bay any farther, if we did there would be
trouble.” He was told that if it became necessary to bring our whole
squadron into their waters, that it was necessary that the ships should
have a less exposed anchorage than the one we had occupied off Uraga,
and the only way that such an anchorage could be found out, was by
surveys and soundings.

On the 16th boats were sent down to survey and ascertain the depth of
water in the cove which opens on the left hand just after entering the
inner bay in which is situated the Saru-Sima, by some called “Perry
island.” The steamers followed during the day down to this anchorage,
but the wind proving light and baffling, the sailing ships did not
get there until evening, one of them meanwhile having drifted afoul
of the other, on having to come suddenly to anchor, and carrying away
a flying-jib boom. Here, before dusk, a Japanese official, who spoke
Dutch, brought off as presents game-fowls which had beautiful plumage,
lacquered-ware, some of their small pipes and mild tobacco, and brocade
interwoven with gold thread. These were refused until they consented to
receive presents in return. They would not give one of their blades nor
receive one of our swords; such an exchange did not indicate friendship
according to their ideas, nor was the parting with any Japanese arms
allowed by their laws. They expressed great desire to know when we
should leave, and manifested much solicitude and anxiety about our
remaining. This curiosity was not gratified.

We had now been in their waters about eight days, during which we
had only one opportunity of noticing things and people, near by on
shore, and then for not a very long time. But what we had been able
to observe, assured us that the Japanese were a superior race, though
they might belong to the same variety of the human family as their
pig-tail neighbors. Their complexions were better, their features
more regular, they had not a great obliquity of eye; their manners
were more collected and impressive, their bearing more dignified,
their costume less sacerdotal; and their crowns, instead of displaying
a patch of hair the size of a dinner-plate behind, with a pendent
plait, were shaven in an oval on the top, around which the hair was
brushed perpendicularly, and pomatumed, terminating in a tie, from
which the united ends, adhering together with the pomatum, laid like
a cheroot-cigar in form, the end pointing to the brow, in the centre
of the place that the razor has denuded. They look like the literary
gentlemen whose bald heads cause their foreheads to run back nearly
to their coat-collar. Certain it is that they can hardly be deemed
descendants of the son of Manoah, of whom it was prophesied—“_and no
razor shall come on his head_.”

Their boats were sharp, and by the continued action of the
sculls—instead of rowing on their sides—were impelled with greater
speed than the boats of the celestials; while the nice bows to their
junks indicated great superiority, and the single white canvass sail,
stretched by a yard from their enormous mast, was far more pleasant to
the eye and sensible than the dingy mat-sail of the Chinaman. Their
plan of reducing sail is singular: instead of lessening the hoist of
the sail as other nations do, as in reefing, they reduce the width of
their sail by unlacing a cloth from either side. We did not on this
visit get in the vicinity of the large capital but could form some idea
of its consumption by the immense number of coasting-junks for ever
going up and returning, keeping white the bay, with their singular
sails, in centre of which black characters told the district they were
from, or it was indicated by strips of black cloth hanging on either
end of the yard. It was soon apparent, and the Japanese were no doubt
aware that we knew it, that if it should become necessary to resort to
offensive measures, that the blockading of the custom-port of Uraga,
and the stoppage of the passage of their junks with their supplies to
the immense city, would make them very effective. Their forts would not
have been able to have raised the blockade; we could have kept out of
the reach of their guns, and peppered them with the long range of our
own.

On Sunday morning, July 17, at daybreak, we lifted anchor, and the
Susquehanna with the Saratoga in tow, and the Mississippi towing the
Plymouth, we proceeded down the outer bay, and left for a time the
waters of Japan, numbers on shore and the troops on the parapets of the
forts of Kami Saki looking at us, and apparently much pleased with the
movement. This time we kept down the opposite side of the bay from the
one by which we had arrived, and by eleven o’clock we were abreast of
Misaki Awa, or the southernmost point of the bay on the east, off which
we noticed swimming a number of seals. The natives in the small boats,
having gotten more confidence, on our approach, pulled as near to us
as the revolving-wheel would permit them. We ran in sight of the large
volcanic island, named on the Dutch charts as Vries, but called Oho
Sima, or Bird island, by the Japanese. Evening saw us threading our way
through a group of islands, whose barren surfaces presented a desolate
sight. One of them was Fatisisio, the penal settlement or Botany Bay of
Japan.

On the 18th a man fell overboard from the Plymouth, but by cutting
away, promptly, a life-buoy which he struck out for and reached, and
promptly lowering away a boat, he was saved. I could not but recollect
that there was a man overboard from the same ship the day before, but
under different circumstances, as was told by the half-raised ensigns
at the peaks of the four ships. Poor Jack had died after we had gotten
to sea, and the ocean which had been his home during life, before
nightfall was to cover him with its waves. The boatswain’s call was not
“Heave-to,” as to-day, but piped, which was echoed through the ship by
each of his mates, “All hands bury the dead” and as the sun went down,
with two of the iron messengers, which he had been proud to have hurled
at the enemies of the star-flag, tied to his feet, and wrapped in the
hammock in which with stormy lullaby he had often swung, and swinging,
dreamed of home and its endearments, poor Jack was launched into the
sea, and soon sank “deeper than ever plummet sounded.”

The next day we encountered a heavy swell and a stiff breeze, it then
became squally, and there was every indication about the horizon of
bad weather approaching. As it was getting quite rough, and there
being danger of parting the towing-hawsers, the sloops-of-war were
cast off from the steamers, the Saratoga being signaled to make the
best of her way to Shanghae, and the Plymouth to proceed to our next
place of rendezvous—Loo-Choo. By meridian of the 20th we had a strong
gale of wind on us; top-gallant masts were sent down, top-masts
housed, and storm-sails bent. At three o’clock the ship pitched
away her head-sounding spars, springing the bowsprit in the cap;
but the wreck of the spars was gotten on board, so as to give us no
trouble by becoming entangled in our wheels. The Susquehanna lost her
sounding-spars also, or cut them away.

At night the sea having increased, both steamers having burnt out
a considerable portion of their coal, rolled deeply and heavily.
We lost, by being filled with the sea, the captain’s gig from our
stern-davits,—one of the prettiest and fastest boats in the squadron.
The next morning, from the port wheel-house a handsome whale-boat was
washed away with oars, sails, mast, and breaker. By mid-day it became
apparent, that we were in a cyclone, or revolving-gale, and both ships
were “wore” to stand out of it. On the 23d the gale having moderated,
though the barometer still continued low, we proceeded on our course.
This being the first very ugly weather that we had had since leaving
home, landsmen had a fine opportunity of enjoying the comforts of a
gale of wind—such as holding on to your basin with one hand, and
performing the ablution with the other; waking up in the morning,
with your shoes floating about, underneath your cot: at breakfast,
the delight of a sticky, salty atmosphere is increased, by your chair
sliding with you down to leeward with each roll, or, if attempting
to grapple the table with one hand, a cup of tea precipitates
itself inside of your vest, while you are attempting to secure your
nicely-prepared eggs, that in a moment fresco the deck under foot; the
saccharine is largely mixed with the saline, by the mingling contents
of the sugar-bowl and saltcellar. This is the pleasurable experience of
those, who “go down to the great deep in ships.”

We reached the south end of Loo-Choo, on the evening of the 24th, but
the weather being thick and foggy, could not run into the roads, so
stood off during the night. This day we recorded the occurrence of the
first death—one of the men, who contracted a fever on board of the
Chinese junk lost at the mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang. He was buried
the next day in the foreigners’ grove at Tumai.

On running into Napa-roads the next day, we had some hopes of finding
there the steam-frigate, Powhatan, of whose sailing from the United
States we had intelligence, but were disappointed. The Supply lay there
alone. From her officers we learned, that the cyclone, that we were in,
had been felt with great force at Loo-Choo. They had not only to let
go all their anchors, but had also slung some of their carronades to
prevent the ship’s dragging on the reefs.

We found that there had been no increase in sociability, and no
improvement in the manners of our friends, the Loo-Chooans; and
probably with the view to reduce the length of our stay, they had
diminished the supply of provisions to the ships—although well paid
for them. They plead scarcity, even to sweet potatoes and watermelons,
though they might easily be seen growing in their fields. They
preferred our loving and leaving them, but the commodore had another
interview with his coy-friend, the regent, in which he desired to know,
why they wished to cut off supplies; also that their officers must
cease to dog our steps on shore, and that they must open their stores.
As a mouse in the talons of the eagle, they promised everything, and
promised a bazar on a subsequent day, at which the Americans might
purchase whatever they had to sell. While this forcible diplomatic
wooing was going on, the younger officers, who had the opportunity,
were enjoying the delightful walk to the Komooe at Sheudi, or killing
wild pigeons and curlew on shore—a delightful gastronomic episode,
after a stretch of salt-junk.

At daybreak, on the 1st of August, in a public hall in Napa—the
mayor’s office, I believe—the Loo-Chooan bazar (!) was open. The
articles exposed for sale, were some Japanese fabrics, brought
there by the junks, some domestic cotton-cloth, and specimens
of Loo-Choo lacquer-ware, and chow-chow boxes. By nine o’clock,
A. M.—having “opened a trade” with Loo-Choo, all were aboard, when the
steam-frigates left for China, taking a look at the Amaccarima islands
as we passed, during the day.

The next evening, we espied a sail, which proved to be the United
States sloop-of-war Vandalia, which saluted the commodore, and then
laid to for her captain to repair on board of the flag-ship. We had
hoped for some letters and papers from home by her, but she had none.

After running separated for three days, in hopes of falling in with
the Powhatan, the steamers came in company again, near the southern
extremity of Formosa. At sundown on August 7th, the Mississippi and
Susquehanna, after an absence of three months and eleven days, dropped
anchor in the harbor of Hong Kong, China.




CHAPTER X.


The numerous publications upon China, from the large folios of the
Jesuits, which record their triangulation of the empire over a century
ago, down to the later books, which afford every detail of the strange
people occupying the “flowery kingdom,” render an account, of what came
under observation, during the time the Mississippi, lay in the waters
of China, almost superfluous. Yet during our stay, the state of the
Celestials was rather anomalous; owing to the efforts of a portion of
the immense population under the lead of an insurgent chief, Thaeping,
to overthrow the existing or Tartar government. This rebellion has been
continued so long now, that it threatens to become _chronic_.

At the time of these intestine troubles, the great number of ladrones
or land-pirates, who infest the vicinity of the densely-populated
cities, whose desperate fortunes, make them indifferent to what
government they may be under, generally seize upon the opportunity of
plundering, and the foreign hongs, or factories of the American and
European merchants, are always an object of attack, from the quantity
of specie that is known, or believed to be within their vaults. The
existence of the rebellion, and the heavy freshets in the Pekiang
causing much loss and distress, had also made the ladrones in the
vicinity of Canton very threatening; and a few days after our return
from Japan, our ship was ordered to proceed to Blenheim Reach, to
communicate with the American consul, and to afford with our force, any
aid that we could in the protection of American property at Canton,
which, notwithstanding the representations made to our government,
has been indebted for some time past to the protection of the guns
of a little English brig-of-war, which lay off the factories. But
if one thinks of the un-American manner, and the cockneyism, which
marks nearly all of the United States merchants, who abide and much
do congregate near the walls of Canton, perhaps the protection, which
an English flag would give, is more to their taste, such at least
is my opinion. It occasions no effort to appreciate the hospitality
of these people. Should you be a merchant-man, and indebted to
their brokerage for the purchase of tea and silk, or the sale of
opium, their spacious-chambers are soon put at your disposal; but if
unfortunately an officer from some national vessel, your way to the
single China-hotel, with its pent-up rooms, infuriate musquitoes, and
pleasant fried-rat odors, will not be impeded by them in the slightest
degree. During an extended stay, they might patronise you, if having
the financiering of the ship to do, with an invitation to a dinner, or
one to a “tiffin;” but they will scarcely be heard from again, unless
when they anticipate an _emeute_ of the Ladrone population, when a
man-of-war would immediately get representations about the necessity
for some force to protect their coffers.

Blenheim Reach is about ninety miles from Hong Kong, and fifteen from
Canton, whose port, together with Whampoa Reach, separated from it by
paddy-field islands, it may be called. It was up this passage that
the English ship “Blenheim” went to Canton, and was enabled to turn
the enemy’s flank during the late war. Ahead of us laid the huge old
East Indiamen, looking like line-of-battle ships, and waiting till
they got aboard their twenty thousand chests, and not far from them
the _Aberdeen clippers_, which may take rank as such only when the
_American_ clippers are away. At Whampoa, off a collection of most
forbidding-looking houses, built over the muddy water, composing the
Chinese town, there lay the foreign ships, the mandarin watch-boats,
the junks, the chop-hulks from which stores are supplied, the
protestant and catholic floating-bethels for the good of souls, and the
well-armed opium-schooners whose cargoes destroy bodies.

We laid in Blenheim Reach under the whole, hissing, hot sun of August
and September. There being a heavy fresh in the river at the time of
our arrival, the banks were overflown, and our ship did not swing
at her anchors for some days. Old China street at Canton was a foot
under water, and you reached the entrance to the hongs through the
foreign garden, in a sedan-chair, or on the backs of wading coolies.
During the height of the swollen current, dead Chinamen floated down
and hung in our wheels; and when the water subsided, the exhalation of
fields of alluvial black mud, and the visits of furious flowery-kingdom
mosquitoes, who, like the ghostly breeches of Mickey Free’s father,
were ever going between us and sleep, neither contributed to the
healthfulness nor comfort of our anchorage. Our comforts were further
increased by looking upon scenery which was unrelieved except by a
litchee grove here and there. The weather was terribly hot, and if the
thermometer had been longer, it would have probably been hotter; with
ratan-mat and bamboo-pillow you sought a spot under the awnings of the
hurricane or poop deck, that you might half-restless and half-snoozing
pass the night, while during the day the windsails were of little
use, and drop and drop came down the tar from the rigging. Boils and
other cutaneous eruptions affected the crew, with annoyances greater
than those of Job, and yet they had not the salubrious climate of a
Palestine in which to endure them. The dislocating-jaw beef, and fowls,
and fresh food furnished us by the Chinamen, together with watery
vegetables, nearly destitute of any nutritious qualities, were only
partly compensated for by the half-fresh cherrymoya, custard-apple,
banana, or splendid persimmon—persimmons splendid! Sometimes we would
have a thunder-storm which would purify the atmosphere for a time,
but back would soon come the stagnated, sweltering temperature, which
neither _white_ slippers nor grass-cloth could make more comfortable,
and which made the staid, starched, stiff collar, soon bow its points,
and relax into the opaque, prostrate Byronic. Every one who could, like
the personator of _Minerva_ at Mrs. Leo Hunter’s _fétê champétre_,
carried a fan. Such weather we had for two months.

Occasionally, during the month of August, we had requests for aid from
merchant-captains arriving, who represented their crews in a state of
mutiny. After the confinement of the men, a consular court is usually
held on board to adjudicate the difficulty. I attended one of these,
and was surprised to see what an entirely _ex-parte_ affair it is;
the examination is absurd. The captain’s testimony is mainly if not
entirely depended on, and if a bad man, may not only maltreat his crew,
without any one to confront him effectively with the fact, but after
having contracted with his men, for high wages perhaps, in California,
on arriving in China, for some insubordination, prefers a charge of
mutiny; the men are put in irons, the consul’s decision forfeits their
wages, and thus a speculation is made for the owners. If not this, for
the acts of one or two bad men in a ship, the whole crew are put in
irons and punished indiscriminately. One fellow brought aboard of the
Mississippi in irons, called a “mutineer,” and subsequently regularly
shipped, would not have mutinied against a sheep.

We received almost daily rumors of contemplated attacks upon the hongs.
The latter part of August, the English brig-of-war “Lily” (_painted?_)
passed up the river to Canton, being of light draft. In the event of
troubles, the custody of specie and silver-plate on board of these
vessels, pays a handsome percentage to the commander. A survey of the
Macao passage of the river was made with the hope that our steamer
might be gotten up to Canton, but the collection of a bar at a barrier
which had been made in the river during the war, by the Chinese, made
the water too shoal to attempt it. We sent up a body of marines,
and howitzers in the storeship Supply, which vessel lay for a long
time off the city. The imperial authorities at the city were much
excited; fleets of war-junks passed up and down the river in search of
undiscoverable foes; and the governor of the city recommended to his
pig-tail community not to celebrate the “Feast of the Lanterns,” as it
might give the rebels an opportunity for outbreak, and also notified
that in the event of an attack, it must be a _sauve qui peut_ business
with them, as he could not extend them protection.

Meanwhile the officers of the ship, in an armed fast-boat, paid
frequent visits to the city; at times for visits merely and purchases,
and at others, when emergency seemed to require, with armed cutters
and howitzers. The objects on the route all became familiar, as if
going up and down one of our own rivers—the pagodas, the water-side
joss-houses—the rows of the plantain-trees skirting the fields,
and the big-sailed craft going lazily along in the mud canals that
intersected them. We soon came and went through the huge water-craft
moored head and stern in the approach to the city, and through the
lanes of the innumerable small boats, with their three hundred thousand
water population, or noticed the small ferryboats, in which, at the
fourth of a cent each, thirty thousand people cross and re-cross daily,
without interest almost. You might stroll the streets beyond the
walls, and purchase the curiously-carved ivory and the many elegant
and ingeniously-made articles of China, but the shopkeeper was in
considerable trepidation and would speculate much on the “too muchee
bobbery,” as he called the anticipated fighting.

I was there during the feast of the Lanterns. In going out from the
solitary hotel, kept by Acow—_compradore_ of one of our former
commissioners to China, from whom, I suppose, he learned the little
English he knew—you generally, through the volunteer aid of the
Jemmy-Twitcher Mongols, immediately part with your kerchief and
gloves, and it is no matter that you saw the celestial who took them,
for if he once mixes with the crowd you could no more undertake to
individualize him than you would be able to tell a particular spoke in
a revolving-wheel. By you, passes a fellow with as much timber locked
around his neck, for some offence, as a mortar-board would contain. Of
the innumerable gongs beating, one struck at intervals attracts your
attention. The fellow who strikes it is walking the street in front of
a bare-backed malefactor, whose queue is wrapped around his head, and
whose hands are tied behind him. As he walks, at each tap of the gong
from the man in front, a following attendant lashes him with split
ratan. It would take too long to enumerate the scenes witnessed in a
Chinese street. During the day the bonzes marched through the streets
attired in their yellow robes, stopping at intervals to chin-chin
joss, by beating on gongs. At night tall prosceniums and staging are
erected at the entrances of streets, just inside of their gates,
and extending up as high as the roofs of the houses. These are most
gorgeously and grotesquely decorated, and lit up with large fantastic
lanterns and small lamps, looking like hundreds of illuminated lemons;
adown either side of the streets are hung other lanterns in front of
each store-door. The expense of all this, and the compensation of the
performers, who represent the “sing-song” on the stage, and go on with
their horrible caterwauling to the great delight of the throng in the
narrow street below, is paid by subscription from the occupants of the
street. An old Chinaman, of whom we purchased chess-men, advised us not
to be away from our hotel too long, as there were many “two facee—no
good pigeon-men”—in the crowd, who had no love for foreigners.

At the time of this visit, I saw many of the celebrities about Canton;
the remarkable and magnificent gardens of the old China millionaire
_Howqua_, where artificial landscapes, cascades, and plants, trained in
the exact image of all kinds of animals, are to be seen in perfection;
old Curiosity street, with its costly jade-stone spectacles, &c., and
by accident, the spot, where some young Englishmen, captured during the
war, were taken to, and beheaded by the Chinese.

The last of September, we were relieved by the arrival of the
Susquehanna, when we ran down the river to Cum-sing-moon. As we
approached the anchorage, we discovered the storeship Southampton, not
long from Valparaiso. When she was about a thousand miles from Luzon,
she picked up a boat, containing three men and a boy. When brought
aboard, their long, black hair, high cheek-bones, and dusky complexion
indicated a Malayan origin. All they could say was “_Sallie Baboo_”
and they were most likely driven out to sea, from the group of that
name, while passing with vegetables in their frail shallop, between
the islands. A building having been rented at Macao, as an hospital
for the sick and infirm of our squadron, the _Sallie Baboos_ were kept
ashore there for some time. The boy, about twelve years old, evinced
some sprightliness, and got hold of some sentences in English, but the
confidence to speak a single word in our language, was a plant of the
slowest possible growth with the older ones.

We found the Powhatan and Macedonian at anchor in the harbor.
They had been laying there for exercise in target-firing and in
squadron boat-sailing. Unfortunately one of the officers of the
Powhatan—Lieutenant Adams, from exposure to the intense heat of the
sun, while engaged in the latter duty—was taken very ill, and a very
few days after our arrival, our ship performed the melancholy office
of conveying his remains to Macao for interment. On our arrival in
the roads at that place, we found there the French surveying-frigate
Constantine, who, upon seeing our colors half-mast, in compliment
half-masted her own. The day of interment the weather was so rough,
that a Portuguese lorcha had to be employed to take the body and its
escort to the shore. His remains were followed to the grave by his
messmates, the officers of the French ship, those of the Portuguese
garrison ashore, and proper escort of marines with ship’s band. He was
buried in a beautiful spot in the English cemetry, adjoining the garden
“_Ubi Camoens opus egregium compossuisse fertur_,” and by the side of
a brother-officer—Lieutenant Campbell, of the United States schooner
Enterprise, and the grave of Edmond Roberts, special diplomatic agent
of the United States to several Asiatic courts, who died in the East in
1836.

October the 31st, the Mississippi returned to _Cumsing-moon_, which in
the celestial dialect means, “Golden-sun-born-pass,” but the man who
could so call it, must be

    “—— of imagination all compact:
    See Helen’s beauty in a brow of Egypt!”

The most naked, barren, desolate prospect; a partly-cultivated
island, between which and the main-land, the muddy river sweeps in a
current—and a collection of Chinese hovels, which form nests for the
river-pirates, who rob fast and post boats on their way to Canton and
levy on the fortunes of the fishermen, compose the attractive picture,
which the _Golden-sun-born-pass_ presents.

Here is the principal anchorage of the opium-hulks; and Great Britain,
a party to the “holy alliance,” that said that no member of the
Bonaparte family should sit on the throne of France, and yet has her
legions side by side with those of Louis Napoleon—who keeps a squadron
on the coast of Africa for the suppression of the slave-trade, here
displays more of her boasted consistency, and covers with her flag,
a traffic more iniquitous. It is nothing to England, that opium is
an article contraband of the laws of China; from the enticing poison
produced in her possessions, she gets a large income in revenue; her
ships bring the drug to China, and smuggle it in armed vessels along
its coasts; and with her protection, the vile poppy has medicined
thousands to a sleep that knows no waking. She cares for syce silver,
not for bodies or souls. But it must be said, that the Parsees with
their “Benares” opium, and even Jonathan, though he does not fly his
flag, have a share in the traffic; that some of the drug is even grown
in China, and that a trade thrust upon that country by the throats
of English cannon, is now connived at, and embarked in by corrupt
mandarins, who share in the profits of its smuggling, while their
duties require them to discover such offenders, and bring their heads
under the executioner’s sword.

[Illustration:  _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._
  CHINA.]

A considerable portion of the opium consumed in China, is produced
in its southern departments. Its growth is as much a violation of
the imperial law, as its introduction into the Cinque ports by
foreigners is violative of treaty stipulation. The bribed mandarin
governors derive a large income, by looking another way in their
official perambulations when a poppy-seed field is reached; or it may
be that the _papaver somniferum_ has such an effect upon them, that
they go past in a somnambulic state. There being no edict requiring
of mandarins a knowledge of botany, they have no desire to learn the
difference between a poppy-flower and any other. Add to this the
demoralized condition, or rather the moral-less condition, of a large
infanticide-practising population, who once having gotten the habit,
become willing victims of the drug, and its introduction and continued
consumption, becomes an easy matter;—they first endured, they now
embrace.

There are Chinese who contend that opium is good for the health. It
may, like intoxicating liquors, be used in moderation, but its use once
acquired, its strides upon the appetite of its votary, are far more
speedy, and fatal in results.

The story of opium-using—which is synonymous with its excessive use,
need hardly be repeated here; how, instead of the brains out, and
the man dying, the brain dies and the man may still live on; how the
robustness of youth is suddenly changed into the infirmity of old age;
the limbs shrivel, the chest sinks, the shoulders stoop, the bones
protrude—the sunken cheeks, the ghastly hue of the complexion, the
extreme attenuation of the neck, causing the head to sink between the
shoulders, and appear disproportionate, and the man to move about a
walking skeleton; or how the debauchee once accustomed to the use of
the drug, becomes as secure in its grasp as an ox in the coils of the
huge serpent of Brazil—the successive stages gone through, when in its
power; the victim wrapped in dreamy hallucination is fiendishly mocked
with the imaginary enjoyment of a seventh heaven;—the alternation to
a supernatural excitement; the eye glaring demoniacally, and all the
brutish passions of human nature possessing him, or the look changing
to the listless, leaden, dull, inane leer of idiocy, when the curtain
falls upon the death-rattles of agony. Two instances of the excessive
use of opium came more immediately under my observation; one a jeweller
at Macao, who was a hale, hearty-looking man upon the occasion of our
first visit, yet on our return from Japan, had undergone frightful
emaciation from its effects. The other was a Chinese teacher, who
had been employed for the purpose of putting communications into
the mandarin dialect. He was buried at sea, on the passage of the
Susquehanna from Loo-Choo to Bonin, and those who witnessed his death,
represent it as one of terrible contortion and suffering.

The opium stored on the hulks at Cum-sing-moon, comprises the Benares,
the Patna, and Malwa. It is put up in balls and packed in chests. On
its receipt, the custodian of the hulk proceeds to assort it, and
with a view of testing its quality, and preparing its samples for the
examination of the purchaser, small quantities of each case are boiled
in water, strained through brown paper, and then, by the heat of a
fire, reduced to the consistency of thick paste or molasses, which it
somewhat resembles, when it is placed in little cups.

The owners generally reside in Canton, where most of the sales are
made; and it is a specie business. A case may sometimes sell for six
hundred dollars, and there have been times, when it would sell for
double that amount. The article, like our most southern staple, is
liable to great fluctuation in price, and large fortunes have been made
and lost by it.

The following extracts from some old letters, nearly obliterated, found
floating about the harbor, from houses in Canton to their agents on the
hulks at “the Moon,” as it is briefly called, will give an idea of the
business _operandi_:—

“To-day I have passed two delivery letters on you, each for three (3)
chests of Malwa opium, both in favor of the Chinaman Ehing, wherefore
you will take no suspicion about the delivery. Both these letters are
drawn by me for six chests of Malwa.

“I will also thank you to pass one of the two chests, Nos. 1 and 2;
pass one of them among the six.”

Another ran: “We have before us your note of the 3d, relating to order
No. 852, for one chest Malwa, and note that you had retained the order,
the holder declining to take the opium.

“Having now, however, agreed to take the drug under the same order, you
will please deliver it accordingly, but without reduction, as he must
take it, having already paid the money. We leave it to your judgment,
however, to allow a small reduction, should he insist upon it.”

These ships are well armed and numerously manned, mostly with Lascars.
The living on them is very sumptuous. Some years ago Cum-sing-moon
was visited by a terrible typhoon, when these hulks broke from their
moorings; some were driven entirely out of the harbor, others came
in contact, stove and sunk. The United States sloop-of-war Plymouth
was lying there at the time, and got considerable salvage for property
saved.

The river-pirates make this place their rendezvous during the night.
They would seize and rob boats just off the mouth of the harbor:
their boats are fast sailers. The fast-boat of our compradore, when
bringing us provisions from Macao, had to run a daily gauntlet of the
rascals. But a young Portuguese officer, in command of a small armed
lorcha, used to pursue them with much success. One night, about nine
o’clock, having got intelligence of their whereabouts, while we lay
at Cum-sing-moon, he ran quietly into the harbor, and putting his
men in Sampan-boats, he fell into a nest of them and peppered the
rascals right and left. Their crafts are then taken to Macao and sold,
furnishing a kind of prize-money.

The long and fast-sailing mandarin-boats, that smuggle the opium,
usually get here in the evening. The captains of the hulks make them
anchor some distance from their ships, because of their carelessness
in the use of powder; some of them would quietly sit over an open tank
of it and smoke their pipes, believing that if they are blown up it
is a fatality which they can not prevent. These boats are armed, and
well manned, and when there is no wind to expand their large sails,
they pull as many as a hundred sweep-oars moving through the water
like great centipedes. After their large crews have had their paddy
chow-chow, in the most clamorous and discordant manner, they proceed to
chin-chin joss, as the sun goes down, by banging on gongs and tom-toms;
but before midnight they have paid down their pile of specie, gotten
their chests of the drug aboard, and are moving off up the river to
Canton.

We left Cum-sing-moon and its enlivening prospects in the middle of
November, and went over to Hong Kong, and thence we triangulated, as
it were, to Macao and Whampoa, and so back. At Macao we spent our
time, when ashore, by promenades on the Praya, where, at eventide,
the dark-eyed daughters of the decayed Portuguese aristocracy cast
furtive glances at the stranger, and listened to the music of one of
our squadron-bands, which the commodore, who was living at Macao,
had ashore with him; or strolled through the barrier-gate and out
on the _campo_; or witnessed the wonderful nerve displayed by the
knife-throwing Chinese jugglers in the street.

While laying in the roads at Macao, a young Russian officer who had,
with a squadron from his country, visited the port of Nangasaki,
brought the intelligence that the emperor of Japan had died after
our visit, and that the Japanese said they would have to mourn him
for _three_ years, during which time they could have no transactions
or negotiations with foreigners. We thought the demise might be
true—perhaps a _hari-kari_ hastened it, but that the latter thing was
all “leather and prunella;” the emperor might have died, but another,
like poor Pillicoddy, must turn up, when we next visited the country.

About this time the Plymouth, which had been sent, on our departure
from Loo-Choo in August, to the Bonin islands, arrived at Macao,
bringing the sad intelligence that a boat from that ship containing one
of her lieutenants—Lieutenant Mathews, of New York—and fourteen men,
out on a fishing excursion, while the ship was lying at Peel island,
had been lost in a sudden typhoon on the 5th of October, and that all
hands had perished.

Preparations being on foot for the return of the squadron to Japan,
as soon as the storeship Lexington should arrive, and the services of
the storeship Supply being needed for the transportation from China of
coal for the steamers, a small English steamer recently built at Hong
Kong, was chartered on behalf of the United States government, to take
her place off the factories at Canton. She was armed with four guns,
and a lieutenant, passed-midshipman, and one engineer ordered to her,
besides being manned from the squadron—the American flag waved over
the “Queen!”

On the 19th of December we stood up the river with the Hon. Humphrey
Marshall, United States commissioner to China, on board, who was going
to take possession of his residence at Canton. We reached Whampoa at
three o’clock, and found there the British war-steamer Rattler, that
had not long before taken an active part in the capture of Rangoon. Her
officers had many a kriss and spear trophy of the enemy, and around her
engines were well-cut Buddhist idols in marble, which they had brought
away with them.

The next day the commissioner left for Canton, and beside receiving
his salute of seventeen guns, was accompanied in barges by a suite of
officers, an escort of marines, and a band of music—a “grand function”
accompanying the movements of prominent foreign personages, always
has a great effect with the impressionable Celestials. The American
shipping in the Reach fired a number of guns as Mr. Marshall passed up,
and dipped their colors. The party accompanying remained in the city
some days; I availed myself of the opportunity of making the circuit of
the walls, and in company with the chaplain of the ship and a messmate,
we started in the morning, Rev. S. W. Bonney, a resident missionary,
most kindly acting as conductor. He has been in China eight years and
speaks the language. To take the tramp considerable perseverance is
necessary. You have to thread your way through streets so narrow, that
at times you can easily touch the houses on either side by extending
your hands, down into which the sun never comes, densely packed with
human beings, and over granite flagging, for ever kept muddy by the
innumerable feet in motion over them from day-dawn to midnight. Then
you must keep on the alert and quickly step aside to the sill of some
shopdoor, or you may be run into by one of the thousand porters—the
sole conveyances of Chinese cities—whose short grunt in your rear, as
he toddles beneath the burden suspended from the bamboo-pole on his
shoulder, warns you to get out of his way; or perhaps you may get a
punch in the rear from the ferruled shalves of some high functionary
or rich merchant’s sedan-chair, as they rest on the shoulders of the
coolies, who carry him along at a dog-trot. On our route we stopped
in a number of shops. In one there was seated an Albino-Chinese,
seventy-five years old. A rat-merchant informed us that his stock on
hand was rather light now, but would be larger in a day or two; while
in a turning-establishment, we were shown the Chinese lathe which only
turns half way. The perpendicular red and gilded signs to the shops
were read to us; such as “May the customers come from the west, like
clouds, and when they have purchased, may those from the east come.” We
visited a kind of aceldama—the Quan-tung province execution ground—a
filthy triangular square in the lower part of the suburbs, running
to the river; the place was repulsive in the extreme. On a cross,
suspended so that his feet just cleared the ground, had been strangled
a culprit, above his head an inscription telling the offence for which
he had suffered; while under a shed, near by, was a pile of heads,
their long queus matted in blood. The executions by decapitation,
during our stay, were very numerous; fifty-nine were to be executed
the next day. The culprits are made to kneel, a man stands behind them
and raises both of their arms backward, as you would a pump-handle,
which brings the neck comparatively horizontal, when one blow from
the cleaver-like sword of the practised executioner, severs the head
from the trunk. A woman who had killed her liege lord was to be cut to
pieces. The laws of China are very severe in the punishment of female
offenders—“Women’s Rights” are below par—and it is a land which would
not be adapted for the residence of the “strong-minded” women of our
own country, Chinese prophecy having foretold the downfall of their
empire by the machinations of women.

We passed through one corner of the city proper, which, though
permitted by treaties, is still a risky business. We were quick in
our movements and were scarcely observed by the Tartar soldier on
the look-out for rebels. This gave us an opportunity of seeing the
thickness of the wall. We went in at the gate of the “Rising Sun,”
crossed a small hypotenuse, and came out at the gate of the “Tranquil
Ocean.”

We next emerged into an open space on the north side of the city,
used for drilling their soldiers, and where archery is practised on
horseback at full speed, the most successful shot having as his prize,
his name recorded in a temple near by. We crossed the place with a
number of boys crying after us as we walked, “Fanqui! Fanqui!” (foreign
devil), and passed under a recent triumphal arch of granite, erected
by subscription and by imperial permission. The inscription would be
news to the English: it told in grandiloquent terms, how the outside
barbarians during the war, were repulsed by Chinese valor from their
walls. Not far from here we stopped at a refreshment-house, and got
tea and sweetmeats. Here, as at every other point, if we stopped for
a moment, a crowd collected around. One would hold up an infantile
“pig-tail” to the window, that he might see the “outside barbarian”
inside, eat; while an old fellow created considerable laughter by
pointing to my mustache—the wearing of the mustache among the Chinese
indicating a grandfather. There not being any house for some distance,
we walked close under the walls for some time. They were quite high,
built of stone, capped with brick, almost covered with creepers and
vines, and had at intervals projecting angles for look-out purposes.

We were now out of the suburbs, having on our left a valley shaded
with the bamboo and banyan, and containing granite vat-shaped wells,
from which the water was being continually carried within the walls.
We ascended a high hill on which a number of goats were browsing, and
seated ourselves on the steps of a fort. This place was captured by
the English after much difficulty, being compelled to drag their guns a
long distance from the river, over rice-fields; and here it was that,
after getting possession, they got the mortifying intelligence that the
commodore had granted a truce. The inscription on the gateway told how
it had been placed there to guard the city, and to watch those who came
to plunder. From here you could see over the walls, and look down upon
the city within, the houses of which did not appear more numerous than
outside; and we could discern the consular-flags at the hongs, that we
had left some hours before, in the extreme distance to the east.

It is almost to be regretted that the English should have consented
to treat with the enemy, and given up this fort, when they had the
whole city at their feet, and could have given these treacherous,
malignant, cruel, dictatorial, self-conceited, vain people, a lesson in
enlightenment, which would have lasted them a long time, and procured a
little more deference for the “rest of mankind.”

Descending from here we had a sight of an old mosque, and also of a
dead-house, where the Chinese frequently allow their deceased relatives
to remain for six months at a time, until their bonzes shall designate
some _lucky_ spot in which, in their trunk-of-tree-looking coffin, they
may be buried. In a hill-side cemetery we saw persons worshipping at
the tombs of their relatives, and burning joss-paper; also noticed
a Chinese funeral, the mourners in white. We returned by the western
suburbs, and after stopping a while to take a look at the oil-mongers’
hall—each calling in Canton having a similar building—a kind of
’change, we elbowed our way to the hongs which we reached about three
o’clock, having left them at ten in the morning, during the whole
of which time, Mr. Bonney, while very polite in his attentions and
explanations to us, like one properly imbued with the spirit of his
mission, as he is, distributed his “Yesoo” or Christian tracts to those
whom he would first ascertain, could read them in Chinese, being nearly
the only medium by which it may be hoped to introduce Christianity into
that country.

A jaunt around the walls of Canton one is glad _to have_ taken; you are
subjected to annoyances and names, if not violence. Some called after
us, “Kill them as the brute,” and others made sign of throat-cutting,
mostly young people, who were reproved by Mr. Bonney in their language,
still it was best to keep on at a brisk pace, and obey fully the
injunction given to Lot’s wife. This was discreet. We escaped a shower
of the missiles with which those who adventure the tramp are sometimes
saluted; two only being thrown at us, one, not very large, taking me
back of the neck, and the other falling between one of my companions
and myself.

In the evening we crossed the river and paid a visit to the pagan
temple of Honan, that large structure, where the disciples of Buddha
worship him with his three faces, representing the past, present, and
future. The buildings of this temple cover a space of thirty-five
acres, and an orange-garden, and place for burying the deceased priests
and the wealthy dead, fifteen acres more. The main building, whose
approach is under a noble growth of banyan-trees, is over, one hundred
feet square, filled with colossal demon images of wood and gilt, who
keep off evil spirits, together with twenty-four gods of pity. The
number of priests is between one and two hundred, all eating at the
same table, though vegetables and rice supply the place of black broth.
Then they show their porcine affinity; having there the sacred pigs—so
fat that their eyes may not be seen, and who are fattened till they
die. The time of our visit was after sundown. We visited the apartments
of the abbot of the establishment, who was evidently just recovering
from the effects of opium. This old fellow, once almost felt persuaded
to become a Christian; that is, he almost made up his mind to come
to the Christian country of the United States, but his infirmity and
the dislike to leave a certain support for the balance of his days,
prevented it. To say that he would have been willing to change his
creed, would be almost a negation of terms. What religious creed has
a Chinaman? If any, it is a bundle of negatives. He thinks nothing in
such a connection: he believes nothing. How can you change him from a
position, when you do not know where he stands? how can you change his
belief when he has none? You had as well beat the air.

This old abbot desired Mr. Bonney to tell us that there was a Chinese
lady who had reached Canton from Peking, who was desirous of uniting
her fortunes for the balance of her days to a foreigner: her feet were
only some two and a half inches long. We desired him to be informed
that it “Was not at all in our way.”

The next day I left Canton for the ship in one of the barges, which
came up for the purpose of carrying down specie for the use of the
squadron. They were all well armed; though the river-pirates are
always, by some fraternal telegraph, posted of the movements of
treasure to Whampoa, they will scarcely dare attack a man-of-war’s
boats, yet if not watched, they are willing to attempt, the apparently
accidental, running down of a boat with treasure, that they may
subsequently fish it up, knowing as they do every spot.

The 25th of December—a drizzly, disagreeable Sunday, that was not
“Happy, happy Christmas, that can win us back to the delusion of our
childish days, and transport the sailor and the traveller, thousands
of miles away, back to his own fireside and his quiet home,”—saw
us passing the fortifications of the Bogue, which stupidly neglect
crown-batteries with admirable physical formation for them, by which
the rigging, tops, and spars of an enemy’s ship might be sorely
troubled, bound down through the Cap-sing-moon passage, back of Lantow
island, to Hong Kong. The next day the Lexington arrived.

The news of the death of Vice-President King we had seen, but the
official intelligence we did not get for some time. On the 29th of
December, in honor of the deceased, each American man-of-war in the
harbor, fired minute guns at daybreak, mid-day, and sundown. In this
they were very courteously joined by the English flag-ship Winchester,
commanded by Admiral Sir Fleetwood Pellew, son of Lord Exmouth of naval
renown.

The beginning of 1854 found us in the harbor of Hong Kong, preparing
for departure for Japan, and awaiting the arrival of the next oriental
mail-steamer. The intervening time was occupied in coaling the
storeships, and in an occasional dramatic performance on one of the
steamers; a thing not at all calculated to improve discipline; whose
burnt-cork and dramatic performances make “Rome howl” much oftener
than good sailors; besides, the lights employed not contributing to
the safety of a man-of-war from fire. At such times the quarter-deck
awnings are usually elevated, and draped with the numerous flags;
underneath, chandeliers of windsail-hoops and lashed bayonets and
suspended overhead, the guns rolled out of the way, the mainmast
decked with palm-branches; and when the music arises in the floating
ball-room, the guests flit in the mazes of the dance, and nothing
interrupts the twinkling feet of the _en-bon-point_ English women
save an occasional ring-bolt in the deck. Tables were spread in the
different messes. At such times, “H. E., Sir Samuel, K. C. B., governor
and commander-in-chief, and vice-admiral,” and the “major-general, K.
H., of the forces,” and the officers of the “59th,” and foreign naval
officers, were aboard.




CHAPTER XI.


Six months precisely from the day of the first landing of the Americans
in Japan, the mail having arrived from Suez, and the other vessels of
the squadron having left in advance, we prepared to follow. On the
morning of the 14th of January, the black smoke rolling away from their
funnels, announced steam being gotten up on three as large war-steamers
as were to be seen in any waters—the Powhatan, the Susquehanna, and
the old Mississippi steam-frigates. Considering their size, it was a
sight that the harbor of Hong Kong had never before witnessed, and
will no doubt be many a day before it shall see again. At half-past
ten in the morning, everything being ready, agreeably to signal the
ships got under way, the Susquehanna leading out, and the Powhatan
and Mississippi following, with the Lexington and Southampton in tow.
As the flag-ship passed the Winchester, the English admiral manned
his rigging, cheered, and fired a parting salute, which was returned
promptly.

The first part of the run we had fine steamingweather. We stood up to
Breaker Point on the China coast, and then headed across the channel
for the south end of the island of Formosa. In three days this land was
in sight, and we ran past it on a lovely evening, with the cultivation
and fine growth of trees in full view. The setting sun soon lit up
gorgeously the whole picture, and nature in its beauty having no
barbaric phase, one could scarcely realize that a spot so lovely to
the sight, was the home of a lot of throat-cutting, piratical Chinese
refugees. Before daylight disappeared, we saw the lonely spike-headed
_Velo Rete_ rocks, standing in mid-ocean, a dreaded thing to mariners,
and right ahead was visible the conical little island of _Botel Tobago_.

At night we passed the island of Sammassama, inhabited by a peculiar
people. In two days more we had rough, stormy weather, and the ships
in tow were cast off to proceed under sail. The navigation among the
islands on the northeastern side of Formosa, owing to the currents,
becomes very intricate.

On the night of the 19th we could hear the breakers, on the reef
surrounding the island of Typinsan, on which the Providence, English
twenty-gun ship, was wrecked in 1790. We passed the Amakarimas on the
21st, and in the evening the three steamers anchored in the roads of
Napa, Loo-Choo, where we found the razee Macedonian, the sloop-of-war
Vandalia, and the storeship Supply. In a few days the two other
storeships arrived, and the weather became very rough. The sea broke
and tumbled furiously in over the reefs, while the ships rolled at
their moorings, and communication by boat between them was almost
discontinued.

About this time a young assistant engineer of the Susquehanna died,
and the boats that accompanied the body for burial ashore, had to row
through the heavy sea. Pity but that he had been left at Macao, from
which place he had written to his friends not to write him again as he
would soon be home. Poor fellow, it was his long home he soon went to.

The boisterous weather continuing, the carpenters were unable to
transfer a deck cabin from the Susquehanna to the Powhatan, to which
vessel it was in contemplation to transfer the flag, or to discharge
the coal from the Supply and land it.

The Mississippi having been as deep as usual with her coal, on leaving
Hong Kong, and rolling heavily in her run from that place, was found,
while laying at her anchors, to leak from twenty-two to twenty-four
inches of water, in twenty-four hours, which was deemed sufficient by
those on board, considering how flat a floor the ship had.

On the 31st of January, the weather having become more favorable,
agreeably to order, the Macedonian, Vandalia, Southampton, and
Lexington, got under way and stood handsomely out of the harbor, bound
on their first visit to Japan. An exploration party by land, left, on
the same morning, for the northern part of the island, where it had
been said powder was manufactured, and that there was coal. The result
of the exploration was the bringing back some of the “coal _blossom_,”
from which some were sanguine, that there was coal on the island. It
will be many a day before any steamer will cross the Pacific in the
latitude of Loo-Choo; and Napa will never be the place selected for
coaling.

During the night a poor devil of a Loo-Chooan paddled off to the
Susquehanna, soliciting safety, from some on shore, whom he motioned,
were going to kill him. Not having previously, “declared his intention
in the United States,” it was not possible to get up another Koszta
affair! His canoe was hoisted on board, and the man put under the
sentry’s charge. The converted missionary at Napa—Dr. Bettelheim,
expressed the belief, that the poor creature was a spy. This opinion
was not at all surprising from the Dr., who never displayed amiability
toward the population, and in answer to an inquiry about their history,
or their upper classes, his response was “They are all liars—not
a word of truth in them.” This feeling appeared to be entirely
reciprocated by the Loo-Chooans, to whom his presence appeared most
distasteful.

When other mediums than himself were adopted for the procurement of
eatables, &c., we generally found, that we succeeded better. The
Loo-Chooans are not in a condition to receive gospel-truth, and
his efforts at proselyting were all well known in Japan, and any
protection, that we might appear to extend to him, or the slightest,
even apparent co-operation with him, were not at all calculated to
advance the desires of our government with the Japanese. Besides
this, it is said, that some, temporarily connected with the squadron,
distributed “Yesoo” or religious tracts among the people, during our
stay, which was not adventitious for our objects with a people, to whom
in his letter, to allay their ever-active suspicions, in the first
paragraph, the president had deemed it necessary to say, that the
envoy he had sent them was “no missionary of religion.” Certain it is
that no attempt at increasing the field of missionary labor, among the
jealous, tenacious, and suspicious Niphon race, who chiefly inhabit the
northwest islands of the Pacific, can ever go _pari passu_ with efforts
to establish treaty relations and commercial intercourse, unless like
Mohammed preaching against the idols of the Kaaba, the cimetar gleams
in one hand, while the Good Book is upheld by the other.

Dr. Bettelheim having received intelligence from England, of being
superseded by another missionary, named Moreton, was with his family
tendered a passage in the Supply to China. He left behind more patients
than proselytes; poor patients, grateful for the physical assistance,
which his Esculapian art had enabled him to extend to them, when
afflicted with the noxious diseases of the island. This medicinal
aid was, no doubt, often extended under difficulty—the want of faith
in the remedy by the afflicted, and the sneers of the bystanding
native _Hippocrates_. I remember on one occasion, being attracted by a
group, who gathered around a white-headed old native, who had fallen
apparently in a fit. As he lay stretched upon the ground, some held
up his head at intervals, and attempted to give him chah or warm tea
to drink, while a native Sangrado, was leopardizing him with _mochsa_
burning. Dr. Bettelheim, who was by, thought the man should be bled,
but he said, “If I bleed him, and he recovers, they will say, the
_mochsa_ cured him; if I bleed him and he dies, they will declare I
killed him.”

It was understood that the commodore had purchased or procured from
the authorities, the place on shore at Tumai, where our coal had been
stored, and over which a shed had been erected. It was left in charge
of an acting master’s mate, who had command of a number of invalid
seamen, quartered in a building not far off. The American flag floated
over the coal shed, for the first time, on the 5th of February.

During this visit the people appeared rather more friendly than usual.
We took our walks as formerly to the castellated and beautiful Sheudi.
The vernacular had been slightly acquired by the juveniles; a small
boy in a school counted twelve for me in English quite plainly, while
others desiring to display the activity peculiar to juvenility, when
scrambling for coppers, would say as you passed, “American—how do you
do?”

On the 3d of February, the commodore with a suite and military escort
similar to the one of June 6th preceding, paid another official visit
to the palace at Sheudi: a proceeding anything else than devoutly
wished for by the prince-regent. The palace-gates were opened and we
were ushered into the former hall of audience. On this occasion a
number of American gold and silver coin were left with them, for which
they were informed, that on the return of the squadron, they were to
give an equivalent in similar metals of their currency. They would
gladly have avoided this, but they felt themselves the victims of a
gently-forcible suasion, that there was no getting around.

A banquet was spread as before, and as each guest left the building,
an attendant functionary at the door handed him a red slip of paper
written on in the mandarin character, which proved to be kind of
hospitality shares, and on their presentation at the city of Napa,
entitled the holder to a “cumshaw” of a pipe and pouch, and bundle of
paper.

On the 7th of February the three steamers left Loo-Choo for Japan. On
getting outside of the harbor a sail hove in sight, which proved to
be the sloop-of-war Saratoga from Shanghae. We lay to for an hour and
a half, getting from her in boats, bullocks and provisions that she
had brought. At five in the evening we were off the northern part
of Loo-Choo island—“Mellville,” which had been surveyed by Captain
Beechy, R. N., and resurveyed by boats from our squadron.

We got, after leaving Loo-Choo, what the sailors call a good “slant” of
wind, and ran free under canvass as well as steam. On the night of the
11th it came on thick and chilly, and found us groping our way among
the chain of islands just southward of Ohosima. One steamer was unable
to discern the lights of another, and the midnight navigation was not
rendered any more pleasurable by the corybantic sea, or the reflection
that during the day we had discovered dangerous rocks poking their
points above the water, not laid down upon the charts, which would
punch a hole in the bottom of a ship with no compunction. But it is
remarkable what indifference or philosophy takes possession of those,
who are accustomed to plough the great deep, upon such occasions. They
may know the peril of the locality in which they are sailing, yet they
turn in as usual; sleep and snore, and reck not of what may come.

The next morning was Sunday: we had left Japan on that day, and we were
now returning to it. The sun came up bright and clear, but the air had
become very cold, and penetrated the ear painfully as we stood upon
deck, because of the transition from the more genial temperature of
Loo-Choo, which we had left a few days before. On our right hand was
_Ohosima_—the smoke slowly ascending from its volcano like incense
from nature’s altar, while right ahead of us were the mountain ranges
of the shore of Japan wrapped in snow—yes snow, a thing we had not
laid eyes on for many a month before:—

    And as springs in deserts found, seem sweet,
      “All brackish though they be,”

so this even chilling remembrance, brought up a warmth of recollection
of our own country.

Having drifted a good deal during the night, daylight found us opposite
the wrong bay—that of Kawatsoo, instead of Yedo. But lucky so it
was, for on approaching, two ships were descried in under the land.
On reaching signal distance we made out the numbers, flying at their
mast-heads, to be those of the Macedonian and Vandalia. The latter
vessel, being the nearest, soon telegraphed the flag-ship “ashore is
the Macedonian,” this vessel the night before, when thick and hazy,
having gotten on a reef. When we came up she had thrown over a number
of things to lighten her, and had slung and buoyed her guns too, to
let them go, if necessary. Signal was made for the three ships to come
to anchor. In the afternoon, the sea being smoother, the Mississippi
was directed to pull the Macedonian off the reef, which she did
finely, parting one hawser in the undertaking. The ships remained
at this anchorage for the night. Before sundown, most opportunely,
the Lexington hove in sight. The Southampton, more lucky than the
other sailing-vessels, had made the bay of Yedo, and her true, old
sailor-commander had run up it, as far as the sailing-chart furnished
him, laid down. The Japanese on shore, who knew of the grounding of the
Macedonian, had gone up to where the Southampton lay, and informed them
of an American ship with a white streak around her, being ashore, and
with a native chart, they pointed out the spot, where she was. Captain
Boyle despatched a launch with an officer to her assistance, though the
arrival of the steamers, rendered it unnecessary.

No sight could have exceeded in magnificence the one presented by
_Foogee Yama_ at daylight, the next morning. The clouds that had
obscured it the evening before had disappeared with the night. The air
was clear; the mountain seemed to have moved nearer during darkness;
its mantle of snow, divided by rugged ravines, was more plain; and when
the moon was setting, and sharply defining one side with its chill,
cold rays, the sun, in all his state, came up upon the other, and
burnished with brilliant glory the huge cone as it swelled up into the
sky.

We entered the bay of Yedo in the morning of the 13th of February, the
Susquehanna towing the Vandalia; the Powhatan, the Lexington; and the
Mississippi, having more towing-power from greater face of wheel and
immersion of paddle, the Macedonian. As before, the batteries were
ready, and guns shotted; but instead of proceeding cautiously, as on
the occasion of our former visit, the line of ships ran directly past
their forts and into their inner bay, not stopping until reaching what
had been called “American anchorage,” on our first reconnoissance,
about ten miles above the port of Uraga, off the island of Natse.
The storeship Southampton had arrived there some days before. We
had scarcely anchored when some Japanese officials came off to the
flag-ship to welcome the commodore and officers back to Japan. They
verified the intelligence we had received through the Russians before
leaving China—that of the death of the emperor _Minamoto Jyekosi_,
and the accession to the throne of his son, with the title _Minamoto
Yosisaki-sei-tai-seogun_. It was very soon discovered from them, to our
surprise, that their government was prepared to return an affirmative
response to the demands and requests contained in the letter of our
president. They informed the commodore that a building had been
erected, and preparations made to receive him at Uraga, where they said
was a high functionary who would deliver to him the imperial answer to
the president’s letter, and begged that he would move his squadron down
to that place.

The commodore, through his captain of the fleet, peremptorily refused
to accede to this request, on the ground that the anchorage there was
too much exposed at that season of the year; and requested them to
inform their government that a suitable place for his interviews with
those appointed to confer with him, must be selected in the vicinity
of the then anchorage of his squadron, otherwise, if he moved at all,
it would be to ascend the bay in the direction of Yedo.

Several days were allowed to elapse before the Japanese consented to
change the location for the negotiations. The weather proved quite
rough, but the boats of the squadron, under that most admirable officer
and gentleman, Lieutenant W. L. Maury, continued to make soundings and
cross-bearings in the direction of the city. On one day the weather
proved so rough, that the surveying-boats and their parties, unable to
get back to their own ships, remained with the Southampton all night,
which vessel had been moved further out and higher up to triangulate
upon.

The Mississippi was heeled with her guns, and her shot and shell
temporarily transferred to the Susquehanna, to get at her leak. The
broad-pennant was transferred from the latter ship to the Powhatan;
state-department cherry cordial was freely set out for visiting
Japanese officers aboard of the flag-ship; and the Vandalia, with
Fleet-Captain Adams, was sent down to Uraga to have an interview with
the governor of the place, and to tender a passage up to the squadron,
to the high functionary with the imperial answer at that place. This
was declined. They said that thus far they had yielded to us, and it
was but right that we should do so in some things to them, especially
as they had already erected houses for reception and negotiation at
Uraga.

It was well known that “nulla vestigia retrorsum,” should be the
motto in dealing with these people; and the Japanese finding that
the American “Mahomet would not come to the mountain,” decided that
the “mountain should go to Mahomet,” and so consented to the removal
of their buildings higher up the bay. It so happened, that just at
the time that the Vandalia appeared in sight on her return with the
declension of the Japanese, that the remainder of the squadron had
gotten underway to move ten or twelve miles higher up to the more
land-locked anchorage off Kana Gawa, or river Kana, and the Japanese
believing there to be an immediate concert of action, and our
surveying-boats having approached to within a very few miles of their
great capital, very readily acquiesced in our requests.

On the 22d of February the different ships fired a salute in honor of
the day. The atmosphere was the purest, and it was a fit presence in
which to honor the memory of George Washington—_Foogee-Yama_, with
its mantle of snow, towered upon the sight, its ermine of the elements
typifying the purity of his character; and its great height, the
eminence which he attained in the eyes of the world.

The spot selected for the erection of the buildings for the
conferences, was on the beach of the village of Yokohama, or compost
town, in the small bight of Kawa-saki, and separated from the city of
Kanagawa by the little river Kana. This place was quite sheltered by a
projecting bluff below. The Japanese, as could be seen through a glass
at two and a half miles distant, set to work in the erection of the
buildings on shore, with a Babel-like activity; and the ships of the
squadron moved in closer and formed a crescent line in their anchorage,
agreeably to buoys previously established.

While the buildings were being gotten ready, a number of their
fast-sailing, sharp, copperplated and tassel-prowed boats, some quite
ornamentally painted, came off and moved round the ships, their inmates
not being allowed to come alongside by their government’s cruisers,
peering all they could. The sterns of these boats are open, or indented
to the distance of a foot or so in their build, they believing,
perhaps, that the eddying water at this point serves to propel the
craft. The tall, square masts of their boats, when not under sail,
rests on a kind of gallows at the stern. At one corner of the stern
is an upright bamboo-pole to which, like a tavern-keeper’s sign, is
attached by strips, a cotton or provincial flag; if it be a government
or customhouse boat, the flag is of white cotton with a horizontal
black stripe through the centre of it. On the other corner is a similar
arrangement, from which is suspended the universal paper lantern,
differing from the Chinese in lifting up, instead of opening out like
an umbrella. The rowers of these boats are athletic men, who appear
very indifferent to cold, and in the chilliest weather their cotton
garments are most epigrammatic in character.

The Japanese officials, or gentlemen, who came off to the ships
were politely received and kindly entertained, at which they seemed
gratified, and, after the manner of their land, indicated their
appreciation by bringing from time to time little presents of
lacquered-ware, &c. I don’t remember to have seen anything else but
the most quiet and gentle manner in any of these visiters, except
in the case of an impertinent little officer of artillery, who it
would have been as well to have shown the gangway. This fussy little
animal, who rejoiced in a flaming pair of big brocade breeches, being
a consumptive, according to the Æsculapian theory of his country,
left all “the hair on the top of his head,” which according to our
theory is the “place where hair ought to be.” He had, however, the
cheroot-cigar-looking tuft of hair laying horizontal, and end pointing
forward. This fussy little person pryed into everything about the ship
with rude curiosity. He came and went from the cabin without decorum,
and examined huffily officers’ state-rooms, without solicitation. The
only point of interest in the diminutive animal was, that he appeared
to understand quite well, how a howitzer in battery should be worked.

A dinner was given on the Susquehanna, by her commander, to Yezimon,
governor of the province of Uraga, and a suite of ten others, among
whom was the little peripatetic consumptive of the artillery. The
Japanese being accustomed to the use of the chop-sticks at their
meals—which are not of ivory as the Chinese, but lacquered black—were
a little awkward at first in the use of the Christian assistants of
knife and fork, but it did not take them long to acquire the requisite
facility, when they made up for lost time. The cherry cordial, of which
they are very fond, did not go untasted, and champaigne was by no means
neglected by them. Accustomed to the small saki-cup, they admired
the contents more than the size of our glasses. When any health was
proposed, the Japanese—as if using the staghead-pattern cup dug up at
Pompeii—turned their goblets upside down on the table, to show the
absence of heel-taps.

The health of their emperor was drank, for which the governor, through
his interpreter, returned thanks and gave the health of the president
of the United States; and after his own health had been given, he
gave the health of the commodore (not present). This was all very
well apparently, but I shrewdly suspect that for the hint, they were
indebted to Mr. A. L. C. Portman, who was present and interpreted from
the Dutch, in which they preferred conversing at all times: he is too
conversant with the proper etiquette of such occasions, to let this
surmise go unindulged in. They remained at the table some two hours,
during which time one of their number present, “by request,” sang a
Japanese song—if a kind of a cross between the half wail, half-vocal
screech of the Chinese, a boy dragging a stick over the palings after
him, and a severe asthma, may be called a song. In return one of the
lieutenants of the ship present, sang “Ginger Blue.” “Ginger Blue” sang
in the hermetic empire! What impertinence, O Jonathan! to indulge in
such refrains before the potentate presence that once required knocking
of head from a Russian count! Thy good friend the _London Times_, will
“condemn thee to everlasting redemption for this,” and when it learns
it, how many additional articles will appear in its columns headed
“_More American Wit_.”

Yezimon, on leaving the ship where he had been so handsomely
entertained, remarked that he hoped he would have the opportunity
of reciprocating the courtesies which had been shown them, when the
friendship (treaty) had been made; they would then see more of us, and
we more of them and their towns. As customary, they left a number of
little presents, consisting of confections in small wooden boxes, and
flowers, and little birds on miniature trees, made with shells. Their
specimens of spun-glass did not equal in whiteness and fineness what we
see at home.

While at dinner, they laid aside their two swords. I had a very good
opportunity of examining them in the cabin of the Mississippi. The
Damascus may not equal them; but they evinced much surprise when I
showed them the temper of this far-famed blade, by an engraving, in
which the point of one appeared so bent as to be put through the guard.
The Japanese blade is of the most magnificent steel; it has the back
shaped like that of a razor, and the edge is equally as sharp, and so
highly polished that they look black instead of bright, and the breath
disappears from their surface, as from the face of the finest mirror.
The hilts were without “basket” of any kind, and about a foot in
length, intended to be grasped, when in use, with both hands. They were
covered with the skin of the shark, or the corrugated plaice, wrapped
in silk cord in diamond shapes, and ornamented with amulets in the
shape of small animals, made of gold, boxwood, red coral, or bronze.
The guard, which was a circle of bronze, was decussated, and frequently
had an image of a fly entangled in a web. The blade has little curve,
and is contained in a scabbard of wood finely lacquered, and ornamented
with purple cord.

The Japanese interpreter present spoke English tolerably; said he
had learned it from an American at Nangasaki, but took good care not
to mention that this American was one of the sailors whom the United
States ship Preble took from them in 1849, who had been held by them in
captivity. They were very desirous of getting dictionaries and grammars
in English. They were offered a passage to the United States in one of
the steamers; they said “No; they would come when they could build
ships”—indicating the three masts with their fingers, and the yards by
crossing them. Two of the party ascended as high as the main-top.

The houses on shore progressed, and were being built without any
palisade enclosure, as had been agreed on. On the 4th of March we had
a slight fall of snow, and the air was cool. The Japanese, with the
ships’ casks, brought off in their boats, from some place of their
river, water to fill our tanks. They brought two kinds, and desired us
to choose between them. Everything in Japan having any connection with
strangers, is deemed a matter of such importance, that the water-boats
were always accompanied by others with municipal officials. They were
entertained with cakes and tea and wine; and were quite curious in
examining each portion of the ship. They did not understand why we
should have brought so many vessels. They told us that the Russian
squadron had been at Nangasaki, and left there on the 12th of February.
At that time they declared their intention of making a treaty with
the “American States” alone. They would present their fans on which
they desired some sentiment to be written, and many of them took away
the marginal aphorisms of a pocket-dictionary. Their own cards were
presented, written perpendicularly on strips of paper, such as Mr.
Olee-ke-chay-suo, or Mr. To-ta-ro-sa-koo-ka. They were very polite in
writing names in Japanese characters in our books. I requested one
to write a name on the title-page of a Book of Common Prayer, which
happened to have a steel engraving of the cross upon it. He had dipped
his camel’s-hair pencil into his portable inkstand, passed the point
through his lips, and was about to write when his eye rested upon the
cross; he instantly shook his head, threw the book upon the table, nor
could he be induced to touch it again.

Some of the officers who visited the shore near the buildings, brought
flowered branches of the wild Camellia Japonica, which is native here.
Upon being put on the table near a stove, they sent forth a pleasant
perfume. The leaf here is of the deepest and most lovely green; but the
flower, though as large, had not the same delicacy of petal—perhaps
owing to exposure to the cold winds—as the same flower, after
hot-house nurture, in the United States.

On the 6th of March a mariner died on the Mississippi of an affection
of the brain. The sloop-of-war Saratoga, after a boisterous passage
from Shanghae, and being blown off from the mouth of the bay of Yedo,
arrived and anchored in the line. This dropping in of the ships and the
subsequent arrival of another, the Japanese did not understand, and
perhaps thought with Macbeth:—

    “Will the line stretch out to the crack o’doom.”

The 8th of March had been selected for the landing of the commodore to
meet the Japanese commissioners at Yokohama, but there was very little
of the excitement or interest felt in this landing, that attached to
the first, in July preceding, except on the part of those from the
ships, that had not been to Japan on the previous occasion. Then there
was some doubt and uncertainty; the Japanese might or might not attempt
the Golownin game on us; they say now, they were prepared for us then
as enemies, they now receive us as friends: besides this we had now
taken exactly the measurement of their foot, and our force was treble
as great.

The following memorandum order was issued:—

 On the first landing of the commodore to meet the Japanese
 commissioners, he will be escorted by all the marines of the squadron,
 who can be spared from duty.

 Major Zeilin will make the necessary arrangement.

 The bands of music from the Powhatan, Susquehanna, and Mississippi,
 will be in attendance.

 _Four_ boats will be sent from each of the steamers and the
 Macedonian, carrying forty seamen in addition to the boats’ crews, and
 their proportion of marines and musicians.

 _Three_ boats from the Vandalia, to carry thirty men as above.

 _One_ boat from each of the storeships to assist in carrying the
 marines, &c., on shore.

 Half of the captains to remain on aboard. Those who land will leave
 the first lieutenant in charge of the ship. There will be subsequent
 opportunities for all to land who wish it.

 _Three_ officers from each ship can join the escort.

 The officers to be in undress-uniform, frock-coats, cap, swords,
 epaulets, and pistol.

 The men armed with musket, sword, and pistol, and dressed in blue
 jackets and trowsers, and white frocks.

 The musicians armed with sword and pistol, and all to be provided with
 musket or pistol cartridge-boxes.

 All boat-guns to be mounted and ammunition in boats.

 A list of the officers, who are to land, is to be furnished to the
 captain of the fleet, by 10 A. M., on Monday 6th inst.

 Senior officer landing to take command and confer with captain of the
 fleet.

 An officer to be in charge of the men from each ship, and one in
 charge of each boat. These officers are not to leave the boats, nor
 quit their divisions of men.

 If the boats are likely to be overcrowded, the numbers of the crew may
 be reduced.

About 11 o’clock in the morning of the 8th, preparation being complete,
twenty-nine boats of the different ships, with officers and crews
armed and equipped agreeably to the order, were formed in a line
abreast according to rank of commanders, and pulled ashore, presenting
a beautiful sight. The number landing, including officers, was about
five hundred. The commodore not long after, left the flag-ship in a
white barge, under a minister’s salute of seventeen great guns from the
Macedonian, he going ashore in the capacity of “Special Ambassador.”
On reaching the beach, as before, he was received by his officers, and
with American national airs from the bands. The column of escort was
then formed, and all marched to the reception-house—a short distance.
A large field around the buildings had been screened off with striped
cotton cloth, of black and white, while the common people of the
village were kept back by ropes, extending from a growth of fine trees
to the water’s edge. A Japanese guard of honor with lances, were drawn
up on the right in rear of our line of marines and sailors, and a
cordon of the sharp government boats lined the beach to the left.

The high officers, who had been appointed to treat with Commodore
Perry, were:

Hayashi Daigaku, no-kami; chief commissioner to form the treaty, and
member of council.

Ido, Prince of Tsu-Sima, second commissioner.

Izawa, Prince of Mima Saki, third commissioner.

Tsudzuki Suruga, no-kami, Prince of Suruga, fourth commissioner.

Udono, Mimbu Sheyoyu, member of board of revenue, fifth commissioner.

Takenoüchi Shitaro, member of board of revenue, sixth commissioner.

Matsusaki Michitaro, seventh commissioner.

The chief Japanese interpreter was Moriyama Yenoske, and Hori
Tatsnoske, and Namura Gohachiro, were two other interpreters. “No-kami”
means a very learned man; one into whose head no more information can
be gotten.

The first, second, third, fifth, and seventh commissioners acted.

On entering the hall, the commodore was received by the five
commissioners. The party being seated, the flag of Japan was run up on
board the Powhatan, and saluted with twenty-one guns from the launches,
after which another salute of seventeen guns was given to the Japanese
high commissioners, which the Japanese say, they took as a great
compliment.

The room of reception and audience was in a white pine-building,
unpainted. You entered by a flight of three steps. On either side the
room was lighted through white oiled paper in the place of glass,
placed in frames resembling sash-work. The extreme end of the room was
concealed by a large blue flag, having in its centre in white, the
Japanese coat-of-arms, composed of three quarter-moons, whose horns
unite so as to form a circle, around which at intervals, was entwined
a small wreath. The walls of the entrance were covered with paper
screens, having on them the Japanese deified or sacred bird, the crane,
perched on leafless trees. The floor was covered with mats, or rather
straw-cushions, they being some three inches thick, bound on the edges,
and very springy, when walked on. Along the entire length of the room,
were placed low benches for seats, in front of which nearly as low,
were narrow tables covered with red cotton cloth. The temperature of
the room was regulated by charcoal in full heat, placed in copper-pans
as “braziers,” resting in lacquered stands with gilt and ornamental
legs, distributed along the centre of the floor. The company being
seated—the Americans on the left and the Japanese functionaries on the
right, the Japanese interpreter received a message from his prince,
with his nose about two inches from the matting, and then dragging
or sliding himself _à la Turk_ by the use of his arms, to where the
commodore was seated, told Mr. Portman, his clerk, in Dutch, to say
to the commodore, that the prince was glad to see him, and hoped his
health was better. This civility was returned in like manner. They
then went to business: they desired to know what number of persons the
commodore wished to have retire with him in the conference: commodore
said, he wished a room for five, and named the captain of the fleet,
Mr. S. W. Williams of Canton, author of the “Middle kingdom,” his
son—his secretary, and Mr. Portman, who interpreted in Dutch. They
retired into another room in the rear, whose entrance was concealed by
a purple flag. The interview lasted some three hours, during which time
the following answer to the president’s letter was received:—

 The return of your Excellency as Ambassador from the United States to
 this Empire, has been expected, according to the letter of his Majesty
 the President; which letter your excellency delivered last year to
 his Majesty the Emperor of Japan. It is quite impossible to give
 satisfactory answers at once to all the proposals of your government,
 since those points are most positively forbidden by the laws of our
 imperial house; but for us to continue bigotedly attached to the
 ancient laws, seems to misunderstand the spirit of the age, and we
 wish rather to conform to what necessity requires.

 At the visit of your excellency last year, his Majesty, the former
 Emperor, was sick, and is now dead. Since his Majesty, the present
 Emperor, has ascended the throne, the many occupations demanding his
 care, in consequence thereof are not yet finished, and there is no
 time to settle other business thoroughly; moreover, his Majesty the
 new Emperor, at his accession to the throne promises to the Princes
 and high officers of the Empire to observe the laws. It is therefore
 evident, that he can not now bring about any alteration in the ancient
 laws.

 Last Autumn at the departure of the Dutch ship, the superintendent of
 the Dutch trade in Japan, was requested to inform your government of
 this event, and a reply in writing has been received.

 At Nangasaki, the Russian Ambassador recently arrived to communicate
 a wish of his government; he has since left that place, because no
 answer would be given to any nation that might communicate similar
 wishes.

 However, we admit the urgency, and shall entirely comply with the
 proposals of your government, concerning, wood, water, provisions, and
 the saving of ships and their crews in distress. After being informed,
 which harbor your Excellency has selected, that harbor shall be
 prepared, and this preparation, it is estimated, will take about five
 years. Meanwhile a commencement can be made with the coal at Nangasaki
 by the beginning of the next Japanese year [10th of February, 1855].

 Having no precedent with respect to coal, we request your Excellency
 to furnish us with an estimate, and upon due consideration this will
 be complied with, if not in opposition to our laws. What do you
 understand by provisions? and how much coal?

 Finally, anything ships may be in want of, that can be furnished
 from the productions of this Empire shall be supplied; the prices of
 merchandise and articles of barter to be fixed by Kuro-kawa Kahei,
 and Moriyama Yenoske. After settling the point before mentioned, the
 treaty can be concluded, and signed at the next interview.

 Seal attached by order of the Imperial Commissioners.

                            (L. S.) MORIYAMA YENOSKE.
  Kayei, 7th year, 1st moon, 26th day.
     [February 23d, 1854.]

The commissioners expressed themselves prepared to commence discussions
upon the various points contained in the letter from the president,
presented last year, and also to receive any further propositions
that the commodore might wish to make—that in the determination of
the emperor to make some modification in their laws of seclusion, he
relied upon the friendly disposition of the Americans toward Japan; and
as such negotiations were entirely novel to them, they would trust with
confidence to the commodore’s superior experience, to his generosity,
and his sense of justice.

Commodore Perry was fully satisfied on all points suggested by him,
which were in accordance with Mr. Webster’s letter of instructions
to Commodore Aulick, accompanying the first letter to the emperor. A
draft treaty, in English, Dutch, Chinese, and Japanese, was put into
the hands of the Japanese commissioners, who said that it would receive
due consideration; but the old emperor had died since Commodore Perry
was there last year, and his successor was a young man, who would
require to consult his council before coming to a determination, and
the commodore was reminded that the Japanese did not act with the same
rapidity as Americans did.

After these preliminaries had been gotten through, the commodore made
known to the commissioners, that a man had been dead on the Mississippi
for two days, and he desired to know, whether he could not bury him on
an island lower down the bay, which we had already surveyed, and called
after the great statesman, “Webster Island.” They objected strongly to
this, and said, if we would deliver the body to them at Uraga, some
twenty-six miles below, that they would have it safely conveyed to
Nangasaki on the island of Kiusu, a distance of five hundred miles,
and there inter it in the burying-ground, which they have allowed the
Dutch. The commodore would not consent to this, when they agreed to
permit the burial on shore just abreast of our anchorage. They said,
they would have the spot fenced in; most probably because hereafter it
would be tabooed ground with them.

When the commissioners and commodore retired, the officers of the
escort, who remained, were treated with tea and confections. After
these thin-cooked meats, some bearing great favor to fried snakes,
cut in slips so thin that the hinges of one’s jaw would become tired,
long before his appetite became satisfied, were placed before them
on lacquered plates. This repast produced much disappointment with
the officers; they had paid two official visits to the prince-regent
of Loo-Choo island—a dependency of Japan, and on one occasion were
entertained by him with as many as thirteen different soups at one
feast, and arguing from “man to master,” they anticipated twenty-six
different kinds of soups, when they got their knees under Japanese
pine. To those who were sharp-set, the entertainment of Timon of Athens
could not have been much less satisfactory.

Equi-distant on the tables, were lacquered trays supported with feet,
on which were placed of the same material, heavy ornamental silver
“tea-pots,” containing saki, while the tea was served in thin-lacquered
cups, resting—to keep the heat from the hand—on circular pieces
of bamboo, resembling the dice-box of a backgammon-board. The Japan
lacquer—and this being a part of the “service” of royalty, must have
been a fair specimen of it, did not strike me as being incomparably
superior to that of the Chinese, as I had supposed.

When the repast was concluded some Japanese amateur-artists from Yedo,
who had come down from the city in the suite of the commissioners, made
crayon sketches of many of the officers, and seemed to labor under
the impression, that the only thing necessary to make a good American
portrait was to draw a large nose, and sketch the balance of the
features around it. Their essays at representing flowers—the Japonica
for instance, were much better.

While on shore, I took the opportunity of making a closer inspection
of the Japanese troops, who were standing in line in a neighboring
field. They did not present as good an appearance as when drawn up at
Gorihama, the year before. They did not seem as athletic as the Tartar
troops I saw at the fort back of Canton, or at Shanghae; and it appears
to me, that even if they were armed with the percussion-musket, or the
modern Minie rifle, instead of the antiquated matchlock, old Dutch
muskets, &c., as they are, still their unsoldierly costume, would
prevent, that freedom and quickness of movement, and celerity in the
use of offensive weapons, that now-a-days constitute effective troops.

In my limited reconnoissance, I took occasion to pull some of the
family Camellia Japonicas, that were growing wild. One of the
two-sworded gentry seeing me standing near the beach, with a bunch in
my hand, desired to know the name of the flower in “American.” Upon
being told he repeated the word until he got our pronunciation quite
accurately, and then wrote it down in a small soft-paper book with a
camel’s hair pencil, they always going provided with these, together
with a small bronze ink-holder, and a handle to contain the pencil,
at a short distance not unlike a small pipe, with the bowl downward.
I retorted his question and requested the name of the flower in
“Nip-pon,” as they called their country. He said, “T’su-bi-ki.” The
“illustrious stranger”—wearied me more than himself with the number
of his queries. I had to catalogue nearly every article in my wardrobe
in English for him, which he invariably noted down. Upon showing him
my watch, he pronounced the word “chronometer” quite plainly; and on
espying when the case was opened, my name engraved on the back, he
wanted to know what it was. Touching myself I pronounced my name, which
he wrote down, but hardly succeeded in repeating. They can not say “l,”
but call it “r.” The word “glove,” which they call “grove,” is too much
for them.

In the interview, the subject of supplying us with coal was broached,
which they gave a favorable response to, and promised to have some
specimen, of what coal they had, ready for inspection in a short
time. This contrasted strongly with the dissimulation practised by
them during the stay of the “Preble” at Nangasaki in 1849. Then, those
Japanese who came on board, affected the greatest curiosity in looking
at the coal in the armorer’s forge; they were much surprised at the
heated rocks, and one of them asked permission to take ashore a piece
of the coal, which he carefully wrapped in paper.

The next day Japanese officials were aboard of the Mississippi, and
held interviews there with the captain of the fleet, with regard to
furnishing fresh provisions to the ships.

During the forenoon, the mayor of Uraga, and the interpreter and
other officials came aboard, and accompanied the men sent to dig the
grave for the man who had died, to point out the spot on shore. The
burial, which took place some hours after, with the consent of the
authorities who were standing by, and in the presence of thousands of
the population, accompanied with the religious service of Christians,
was an event of much significance, when the inscription that was put by
the Japanese over the massacred Christians at Simabara is recollected:
“So long as the sun shall warm the earth, let no Christian be so bold
as to come to Japan; and let all know that the king of Spain himself,
or the Christian’s God, or the great God of all, if he violates this
command, shall pay for it with his head.” The settled oppugnation to
Christianity, of more than two hundred years, was broken through with
this burial from an American man-of-war.

Not having been present at the interment, I am indebted, for an account
of it, to the chaplain of the Mississippi—a man of great energy
of character, and who, in addition to his clerical duties on board
ship, occupied himself with literary labor, and with an indomitable
perseverance and love for scientific discovery, during the whole
cruise, at every hour of the night, addressed himself to the task of
observing the various phases of what has been called the zodiacal
light; and to his midnight labor and zeal, the astronomical world may
yet be indebted for a solution of the vexed question about this light.

“Our preparations were for an interment exactly after our usual
method upon the occasion of the burial of a marine. A great many of
the officers would have liked to have gone, and some applied for
permission; but it was thought best to give the occasion no unusual
eclat, while at the same time nothing was to be omitted.

“About three o’clock, after ‘all hands’ had been called to ‘bury the
dead,’ and the chaplain had read from the gangway the customary passage
of the Scripture, we left the ship in two boats, with the flags at
half-mast; the first contained Captain Slack of the marine corps,
assistant-surgeon Lynah, and myself, in uniform and gown; and the
other boat having the dead body, with a guard of honor, consisting of a
corporal and six marines. We landed at a spot designated—a quarter of
a mile south of the landing-place of yesterday, and in front of a large
village—Yokohama, the whole shore being lined with villagers who had
come to gaze. The mayor of Uraga, interpreter, &c., received us there.
I had expected that on their seeing me in my official costume, and
first knowing that there was a Christian minister on their shore and
among them, that there would be a recoil, and that they would shrink
from me as from something poisonous. But there was no such thing. On
the contrary, they came up successively and gave me their hand for
a shake. (They have learned our salutation, and seem to be fond of
it). The interpreter, pointing to my prayer-book, asked if it was for
ceremonies over the dead, and smiled as before, when I told him that
it was. The marines were formed in line and received the body with
presented arms, when the procession was formed and moved on: marines
with reversed arms; fife and muffled-drum playing the Dead March;
the chaplain; coffin borne by four marines; their captain, surgeon,
hospital-steward, and six or eight sailors. Our way lay through the
village, and the occasion seemed to excite quite a holy-day among them;
everybody, men, women, and children, running and gaining good places
for seeing, and squatting down on the ground till we had passed, when
they would run and gain another place for observation if they could.
The street through which we passed was, however, kept clear, and at
intervals I noticed new boards stuck up, with inscriptions, probably to
warn people from intruding on our way. But the people, even women and
children, showed no fear nor any hesitation in coming near us, or in
being seen themselves; and some shops that we passed were kept open as
usual. I saw myself often pointed out, being doubtless recognised by
my gown and book as the clergyman of the party, but it was without any
exhibition of displeasure on their countenance; but as they would look
at any other curiosity. I saw one woman hold up her little child to see
me, and the thought passed through my mind that, if it should live to
maturity, it would probably see many wonderful changes in Japan.

“Our way led quite through the village, at the further end of which,
on a wooded hill at our left, was a temple with two different flights
of steps leading up to it, and ornamented gateways below. Through
the further of these gateways, I now saw a Buddhist priest in his
officiating costume emerge, and perceived that he took his way toward
some fresh earth—the grave, a little beyond.

“They had selected for the interment a very pretty spot about a hundred
yards from the village, and closely adjoining an old burying-ground of
their own. We found the Buddhist priest seated there, but he attempted
no interference with our religious ceremonies, which I commenced (all
uncovering), as we approached the grave.

“The scene, at this time, was an exceedingly interesting one; even
apart from its being the first breaking through of the Japanese settled
opposition to Christianity. The hills here formed a semi-circular
sweep, and at one end of the semicircle we were standing. On the
opposite side, on the heights above, was the Buddhist temple. The sides
of these hills, and the whole sweep of the crest were covered with
people, quiet, and attentive spectators of what was going on.

“Close to us stood the Japanese officials, just below the grave. The
marines in line on the other side, and near them on a mat sat the
old Buddhist priest, with a little table before him, on which were a
number of papers, &c., with incense burning in their midst. Everybody
was quiet and attentive while we went through our usual service for
the solemn burial of the dead. Then the marines fired three volleys
over the grave. As the first volley was given there was a half shout
on the hills around, as if giving vent to deep observation and pent-up
curiosity, the number of which was computed by one of our officers at
two thousand.

“While they were filling up the grave, I asked permission to examine
their burying-ground, which they readily gave, the interpreter also
going with me and explaining the several parts. Against the side of
the hill is a range of sculptured stones, which he said were their
gods; some had bas-reliefs of figures like human beings on them. Across
the space were lines of small head-stones—some of these also with
human figures sculptured in bas-relief on their front, others with
inscriptions. These were commemorative of individuals buried below; and
when I observed to the interpreter that the space for each body was
very small, he replied that the dead in Japan were buried in a _sitting
posture_.

“I then went down to the Buddhist priest, a venerable-looking man of
about seventy-five years of age, who was very friendly and showed me
his rosary, half of the beads in which were glass, and half wood; also
his book.

“The interpreter opened the papers and showed us their contents,
and stated that the Buddhist had come there ‘as a compliment to Mr.
Williams’ (Williams having been the name of the deceased). On the
little table, in addition to the incense-box, and some rolls of unknown
material and paper, were also a bowl of cooked rice, a covered vessel
filled with saki, and a small gong. The priest now commenced his
ceremonies, sometimes touching the gong, sometimes stirring the saki;
while he thumbed his beads, and then muffling his hands in his robe and
bowing his head, he read some prayers in a low, unintelligible voice.
His outer dress was a pouch of very rich brocade silk covered with
fanciful figures.

“After putting head and foot boards with inscription to the grave;
and covering it in our usual manner, we left the Buddhist priest
still engaged at his ceremonies and set out on our return, the crowds
gathering around as before, and all very civil and polite, so with drum
and fife playing we returned to our boats.”

Conferences were now held daily, and negotiations progressed slowly,
but harmoniously.

It was agreed that everything official, that transpired at these
interviews, should be committed to writing that nothing might be
misunderstood, nor retracted.

On the days of assembling, an imperial barge with a canopy and gaudy
streamers, moving like the stately boat of some Doge, towed by a number
of boats, conveyed the high commissioner and suite from Kanagawa to the
place of meeting.

Among the presents intended for the emperor was a small railroad-track,
with locomotive-tender, car, &c., and a magnetic telegraph, which were
erected and put in operation on shore.

These excited a great deal of interest among the Japanese, particularly
the latter, when they were made to comprehend its utility in the
transmission of intelligence. Communications were made in their
presence in the English, Japanese, and Dutch languages. They were also
delighted with the railroad, when they saw the engine and car flying
round the track at the rate of twenty miles an hour, but thought it
would be impossible to construct them to advantage in Japan owing to
the very uneven surface of the country.

Nearly two centuries ago, the Jesuits in China seeing how necessary the
protection of the government was for their propagandism, made a number
of things to amuse and excite the curiosity of the emperor _Kang-hi_.
One of their inventions resembled the modern locomotive, though on
the Ericsson plan; it was made, like the locomotive presented to the
emperor of Japan, at Yokohama, to run in a circle also. In the large
old folio history of China, from the French of Du Halde, printed in
London one hundred and nineteen years ago (a copy of which is in the
possession of John V. L. M’Mahon, Esq., of Baltimore), I find the
following:—

“The Pneumatick Machines also, did not less excite the Emperor’s
curiosity:

“They caused a Waggon to be made of light Wood about two Foot long: in
the middle of it they placed a Brazen Vessel full of _live_ coals, and
upon that an Æolipile, the wind of which came down through a little
Pipe upon a sort of a wheel made like the sails of a Wind mill; this
little wheel turned another with an Axle tree, and by that means set
the Waggon in Motion for two hours together. But lest room should
be wanting to proceed constantly forward it was contrived to move
circularly.”

Negotiations having progressed harmoniously, on the 13th of March
launches were sent alongside of the storeships, and the presents for
the Japanese being put in them, the captain of the Macedonian with a
suite of officers, pulled ashore, and delivered them _pro forma_ to the
authorities. They were afterward pleasantly entertained by them. The
Japanese must have formed a rather exaggerated opinion of the quantity
of the presents intended for them by the Americans—judging from the
size of the room set apart for their reception. They were given to
understand that these were tokens of amity, not a tribute.

The presents for the emperor consisted of, among other things:—

A railway with steam-engine; a magnetic telegraph; a surf-boat; a
life-boat; a printing-press; a fine lorgnette; a set of Audubon’s
American Ornithology, splendidly bound; plates of American Indians;
maps of different states of America; agricultural implements, with all
the modern improvements; a piece of cloth; a bale of cotton; a stove;
rifles, pistols, and swords; champagne, cordials, and American whiskey.

And for the empress (presuming there was one):—

A telescope; a lorgnette in a gilded case; a lady’s toilet-box,
gilded; a scarlet velvet dress; a changeable silk dress flowered; a
splendid robe; Audubon’s illustrated works; a handsome set of China;
a mantelpiece clock; a parlor stove; a box of fine wines; a box of
perfumery; a box of fancy soaps.

Among the presents, perhaps the one most valued, was a copy of
Webster’s complete dictionary, to the imperial interpreter. To the high
officers were given books, rifles, pistols, swords, wines, cloths,
maps, stoves, clocks, and cordials, the latter of which they fully
appreciated; and as regards clocks, when it was proposed to bring an
engineer from shipboard to set them agoing, the Japanese said there was
no occasion for that, for they had clockmakers in Yedo who understood
them perfectly. They were curious to know, however, if Ericsson’s
caloric engine, of which they had heard, had been successful. There
were also given them a quantity of Irish potatoes, and an hydraulic-ram.

We had now been lying in their waters a month; the necessity for the
reference of many things to Yedo, caused the negotiations to drag
their weary length along. Diplomatizing may have been all very well
for those engaged in it, and getting a munch of something fresh the
while on shore, but the enchantment lent to those confined on board and
compelled to watch proceedings with a spy-glass, or take exercise on a
hurricane-deck, was very slight indeed. The supply of eatables brought
from China had disappeared; ship’s rations were ubiquitous upon the
table; and the appetite of an American exceeding, or at his ordinary
meals consuming as much as four Japanese, the scanty supply of watery
vegetables, a few pounds of fish, sweet potatoes, and chickens which
had attained their majority, and upon whose muscular thighs neither the
molars nor incisors of the most assiduous masculine chewer could make
any impression—which negotiation obtained from shore—when distributed
by signal from a storeship among a whole squadron, went but a little
way. We were undergoing all the annoyances of a state of siege, without
any of its excitements. And “Oh! it is sweet for one’s country to
die,”—but not of short commons.

The Japanese said they had no objection to the officers going ashore
to walk about the towns of Yokohama and Kanagawa, but trusted they
would not for the present go further; the people had not become used
to strangers, and their presence might produce unnecessary excitement
among them.

The chaplain of the Susquehanna was ashore on the 14th, and took a long
stroll, not getting aboard until ten o’clock at night. Had he made the
best of his time he might have had a sight of the city of Yedo, but he
spent some two or three hours in going to and fro in Kanagawa, and an
adjoining place, which enabled the wily Japanese authorities time to
communicate his whereabouts to the commodore, and to make complaint of
it. He visited the very populous city of Kanagawa, and also Kasacca.

At a wave of the hand of the Japanese officials who accompanied him,
the crowds of people opened a clear passage in the centre of the street
for him. He entered some of the houses, which he found primitive in
their furniture and arrangements, but, compared with other oriental
dwellings of the same class, neat, clean, and comfortable. In some
of them he observed clocks of Japanese manufacture. He also visited
several temples, which though smaller than in China, have more gilding
on their walls, and ornaments on their idols, and generally are in
better order. The priests as well as the people were distinguished for
their courtesy.

The cities thus visited were not only very extensive (estimated to
be six miles long), but had wide, well-formed streets. As he was
returning, a Japanese officer put into his hands an order from the
commodore for all officers to return on board, and shortly afterward
a courier, mounted on a splendid black horse, delivered a similar
despatch, and finding it was understood and acted on, turned round and
galloped back again to report the approach of the American officer, who
concluded his journey by torch-light, and found on his arrival that
everything that had occurred had been noted, even the number of buttons
on his coat being recorded. On his route he met the escort and train of
some high functionary, supposed to number some two thousand. They were
supposed to be conveying to Yokohama the few presents which they said
the emperor could only now send, for want of time to prepare others.

The negotiations, which were interrupted by the equinoctial gale,
were resumed on the 17th of March. The commodore wished them to give
us three or four ports; his squadron was a powerful one; but if he
carried back an unsatisfactory answer to his government it would send
another and a larger one for a different purpose. The Japanese were
willing to give us one port then, and another in five years; they said
they could not grant a port in the island of Yezo—hitherto called
Matsmai—without consulting the prince of that department. To this, it
was replied, “Give the port in the island of Niphon, and the squadron
would go to see the prince of Matsmai.”

On the 19th of March the squadron was increased by the arrival of
the storeship Supply, from China. She brought us the intelligence
of a naval engagement between the Russians and the Turks; but the
disappointment of many in not getting letters was great, and they
thought

    Oh the troubles that do espan,
    The man who _will go_ to Japan!

The Japanese having offered the harbor of Simoda, in the province
of Idzoo, as one of the ports for American ships to visit, the
Vandalia and Southampton were sent down to that place, to make a
reconnoissance, and to report upon its facilities of entrance, and
capacity. The weather was raw, rough, squally, and rainy. Agreeably
to instructions from the government, received before leaving China—a
wise thing, as naval commanders are always very chary, and not at
all disposed to render any more facilities to the foreign diplomatic
agents of the country, than they can help, on the 25th of the month,
the steam-frigate Susquehanna left Japan for Hong Kong, to convey the
new American commissioner to such of the Cinque ports as he desired to
visit.

On the same day there was a landing, not for purposes of negotiation,
but for the reception of the presents from the Japanese, which
consisted of lacquered cabinets, desks, some silks, bags of rice, &c.,
not very numerous or at all comparable in use or value to those given
them. On this occasion there was quite a number of officials present,
who were compelled to manifest curiosity, when they saw the beautiful
little locomotive, with its highly-finished rosewood car, complete in
all the customary furniture, driven by a charcoal-fire alone, at a rate
of a mile in three minutes, around a circular track of three hundred
feet. The Americans were entertained with the contests in the ring
of some Japanese athletes. These men were of great stature and much
obesity, but their limbs displayed none of the angular muscularity, of
a Monsieur Paul, lifting his cannon or resisting the draught of horses,
or the pugilistic activity of the American Tom Hyers and Sullivans, who
could no doubt whale them with little difficulty. These men are in the
pay of princes, and have such designations as “Giant of the North,” &c.
Their hair is gathered upon their head, as others of their country,
though not shorn, perhaps to prevent their Samsonian qualities being
affected. In front of their persons, which is otherwise unclothed, they
wear a scarf, with the insignia of the prince they serve upon it. They
commence with an exhibition of their strength, such as throwing with
each hand over the shoulder, or lying on the ground, and somerseting
with large straw-bags containing two hundred pounds of rice each. Then
came the trial of the ring, not more than eight feet in diameter, and
made of rice straw. Before commencing the combatants squatted and
rubbed their knees, as if to assure themselves of their strength, and
then rubbed a little dust under each arm, something like an infuriated
cow, when she throws it on her back, and then with a grunt they
closed, and though the claret was occasionally drawn, and great welts
were raised upon the shoulders, yet there did not appear much of that
belicosity, descriptions of which have graced some of the columns of
the papers of our own country, since the infusion into it of Bill Poole
blackguardism. The effort was rather to get one another out of the
ring, when the effort ends. After being sufficiently amused at this
_intellectual_ display, the commodore and party returned aboard.

Nearly every day, some of the Japanese officials came off to the
flag-ship to arrange in the preparation of the treaty, that matters
might be facilitated during the formal interviews held ashore. Chief
at such times, on their part, was Moriyama Yenoske, the imperial
interpreter in the Dutch language; indeed he was _the_ man of the
treaty, so far as the Japanese were concerned; to his friendly regard
to the Americans, his clear appreciation of propositions, and the
accurate conveyance of them to the minds of the commissioners by his
translations, we are much indebted.

On the 27th an entertainment was given to the commissioners on board of
the flag-ship. It was the first time that the Japanese imperial flag
floated from the mast-heads of foreign men-of-war. The guests came
off about three o’clock in the afternoon. On passing the Mississippi
they received a salute of seventeen great guns. They first went aboard
of the Macedonian, when her crew were beat to general quarters, and
the broadside-guns of the ship, together with her large “pivots,”
exercised before them. From here they went to the flag-ship Powhatan,
but some of them, who had changed from their steady-moving boats,
by invitation, to our buoyant and lively ones, did not have their
appetites for the repast that awaited them, improved by the qualmy
motion. On the Powhatan they were shown the exercise and rapid firing
of the twelve-pounder howitzers, in which they appeared to take much
interest. They then partook of a dinner, which had been spread for
them: the commissioners dining with the commodore, and the rest of the
company from tables spread under the awnings of the quarter-deck. The
Japanese did full justice to the dishes before them, and when partaken
to satiety, they aided the disappearance of the food, after the manner
of their country, by wrapping up and taking away an occasional pie or
sweetmeat of which they are very fond. Music from the band regaled the
occasion, and as the hermetics drained their draughts of champagne
and cordial down, they became very social, if not confidential,
and proposed frequent sentiments of friendship between “Nipong”
and America. With such a people, John Barleycorn is very potent:
particularly in treaty-making. At night on the forecastle the Japanese
witnessed a capital Ethiopic performance, at which they appeared much
amused. Indeed their stoic gravity had pretty well left them before
this hour, and one of them, during the evening, indulged in a polka
under the hurricane-deck with a very intelligent midshipman. They left
at an early hour for the shore, and after a salute from the Saratoga,
their flag was hauled down. One of the commissioners had a fancy for a
large cake, which was given him by the commodore, together with some
cordial, to be sent ashore the next day. During the night one of the
orderlies at the cabin-door stole and made away with the cake. Not
wishing to give the Japanese the bad idea of our men, that the mention
of this theft might produce, the diplomacy was resorted to of telling
the Japanese, when presenting the wine, that it was an American custom
to present cake in the evening; by which time, another one had been
made, and was sent ashore.

On the last day of March, the ships having gotten back from Simoda,
and made their report as to that harbor, the commodore had his last
official interview ashore, with the commissioners, at Yokahama,
Kanagawa, when after much difficulty, and talking, and debate as to the
wording, the following treaty was signed:—

 The United States of America and the Empire of Japan, desiring to
 establish firm, lasting, and sincere friendship between the two
 nations have resolved to fix, in a manner clear and positive, by means
 of a treaty or general convention of peace and amity, the rules which
 shall in future be mutually observed in the intercourse of their
 respective countries, for which most desirable object the President
 of the United States has conferred full powers on his commissioner,
 Matthew Calbraith Perry, special ambassador of the United States
 to Japan, and the august sovereign of Japan has given similar full
 powers to his commissioners, Hayashi, Daigaku-nokami, Ido, prince of
 Tsus-Sima, Izawa, prince of Mimasaki, and Udono, member of the board
 of revenue. And the said commissioners, after having exchanged their
 said full powers, and duly considered the premises, have agreed to the
 following articles:


 ARTICLE I.

 There shall be a perfect, permanent, and universal peace and a sincere
 and cordial amity between the United States of America on the one
 part, and the empire of Japan on the other part, and between their
 people respectively, without exceptions of persons or places.


 ARTICLE II.

 The port of Simoda, in the principality of Idzu, and the port of
 Hakodade, in the principality of Matsmai, are granted by the Japanese
 as ports for the reception of American ships, where they can be
 supplied with wood, water, provisions, coal, and other articles
 their necessities may require, as far as the Japanese have them. The
 time for opening the first-named port is immediately on signing this
 treaty; the last-named port to be immediately after the same day in
 the ensuing Japanese year. [_Note._—A tariff of prices shall be given
 by the Japanese officers of the things which they can furnish, payment
 for which shall be made in gold and silver coin.]


 ARTICLE III.

 Whenever ships of the United States are thrown or wrecked on the coast
 of Japan, the Japanese vessels will assist them, and carry their
 crews to Simoda, or Hakodade, and hand them over to their countrymen
 appointed to receive them; whatever articles the shipwrecked men may
 have preserved shall likewise be restored, and the expenses incurred
 in the rescue and support of Americans and Japanese who may thus be
 thrown upon the shores of either nation are not to be refunded.


 ARTICLE IV.

 Those shipwrecked persons and other citizens of the United States
 shall be free as in other countries, and not subject to confinement,
 but shall be amenable to just laws.


 ARTICLE V.

 Shipwrecked men and other citizens of the United States, temporarily
 living at Simoda and Hakodade, shall not be subject to such
 restrictions and confinement as the Dutch and Chinese are at Nagasaki,
 but shall be free at Simoda to go where they please within the limits
 of seven Japanese miles (or _ri_) from a small island in the harbor of
 Simoda, marked on the accompanying chart hereto appended; and shall in
 like manner be free to go where they please at Hakodade, within limits
 to be defined after the visit of the United States squadron to that
 place.


 ARTICLE VI.

 If there be any other sort of goods wanted, or any business which
 shall require to be arranged, there shall be careful deliberation
 between the parties in order to settle such matters.


 ARTICLE VII.

 It is agreed that ships of the United States resorting to the ports
 open to them shall be permitted to exchange gold and silver coin and
 articles of goods for other articles of goods, under such regulations
 as shall be temporarily established by the Japanese government for
 that purpose. It is stipulated, however, that the ships of the United
 States shall not be permitted to carry away whatever articles they are
 unwilling to exchange.


 ARTICLE VIII.

 Wood, water, provisions, coal, and goods required, shall only be
 procured through the agency of Japanese officers appointed for that
 purpose, and in no other manner.


 ARTICLE IX.

 It is agreed that if at any future day the government of Japan shall
 grant to any other nation or nations, privileges and advantages which
 are not herein granted to the United States and the citizens thereof,
 these same privileges and advantages shall be granted likewise to the
 United States and to the citizens thereof, without any consultation or
 delay.


 ARTICLE X.

 Ships of the United States shall be permitted to resort to no other
 ports in Japan but Simoda and Hakodade, unless in distress or forced
 by stress of weather.


 ARTICLE XI.

 There shall be appointed by the government of the United States
 consuls or agents to reside in Simoda, at any time after the
 expiration of eighteen months from the date of the signing of this
 treaty; provided that either of the two governments deem such
 arrangement necessary.


 ARTICLE XII.

 The present convention having been concluded and duly signed, shall
 be obligatory and faithfully observed by the United States of America
 and Japan, and by the citizens and subjects of each respective power;
 and it is to be ratified and approved by the President of the United
 States, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate thereof,
 and by the august sovereign of Japan, and the ratification shall
 be exchanged within eighteen months from the date of the signature
 thereof, or sooner if practicable.

 In faith whereof, we, the respective plenipotentiaries of the United
 States of America and the empire of Japan aforesaid, have signed and
 sealed these presents.

 Done at Kanagawa this thirty-first day of March, in the year of our
 Lord Jesus Christ one thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, and of
 Kayei, the seventh year, third month, and third day.

                                              M. C. PERRY.

“The respective plenipotentiaries” did not sign.

The night before the signing of the treaty, the officials were aboard
of the flag-ship until a very late hour, composing with great care
the various prepared copies of the treaty, as they had been enrolled.
In the Japanese copy they discovered an error in the formation of
one character, which they desired to be altered to prevent as they
said, any misconstruction hereafter. They did not understand the
“ratification” of treaties: with them an obligation once signed,
was full and complete, and they did not see any necessity for any
supplementary action by the contracting parties.

After the signing of the treaty the commodore intimated his purpose
of going up to Yedo and saluting the emperor; if he could not reach
the city in his steamers, he could in the ship’s boats. To this they
objected. They were told if they had objections, they should have
included them in the treaty.

This treaty, it will be seen, is not one of commerce, but of friendship
or amity. It is said that the Japanese had some objection to signing
their copy with the words “Lord Jesus Christ” in it. It was understood,
that Hakodade was not to be visited by the squadron, until fifty days
had elapsed from the date of signing.

The Japanese were desirous of knowing from our fleet-captain, whether
the English and the French were coming up to Japan, when the American
squadron should have left: the answer was, we did not know.

There was something rather mysterious about Yezimon, the little
deputy-governor of Uraga. At the time of our first visit, he took
quite a conspicuous part in all the intercourse, but on our return, it
appears, he had to pale his ineffectual fire before greater luminaries.
Very little was seen of him, indeed, if he was seen at all on our
return. The great familiarity and sociability that he had displayed
when on board of our ships had probably gotten him into trouble. The
officials declined saying anything about him; when he was asked for,
and one of the officers informed them that he had a Colt’s revolver
which he desired to present to Yezimon before leaving, they said they
had rather that it should not be done, and added, that they could not
speak about him.

On the 4th of April, after an absence from the United States of over
four years, the sloop-of-war Saratoga left for home. In her went as
passenger Commander H. A. Adams, captain of the fleet—bearing to the
United States, by way of the Sandwich Islands and the Californian
route, copies of the treaty in English and Japanese, and three copies
in Dutch certified to by A. L. C. Portman, Esq., and Moriyama Yenoske,
intended to be the first intelligence home of the completion of the
treaty. There also went home in her a number of invalid officers who
had undergone the enervation and emaciation produced by the heat and
diseases of an East India climate. As the Saratoga passed out she fired
her parting salute, and was cheered by the remaining ships of the
squadron, the bands playing “Home, Sweet Home!” in a manner that caused
each heart to heave. Every one who thought of the long while she had
been out, wished fair winds to fill her sails, and Heaven speed her!

The interpreter, and others, continued their friendly visits to the
ships, wearing when the weather was bad, a singular rain-cloak called
_meno_, made up of a number of tassels of a kind of mountain fern,
pendent from the junction of meshes knit from the same material, and
having outside a covering of green silk network. They would tell us
in answer to the question “Could we now see the emperor?” “No; too
young man.” They had told us that it would require some days before
they could arrange a bazar at Simoda, where we might be able to
procure specimens of their lacquer-ware, porcelain, &c.; and in the
meantime our surveying-boats, when the weather would permit, were kept
constantly going.

The 10th of April, being the birthday of the commodore, I suppose
he wished to signalize it by a nearer approach to the city of Yedo,
and accordingly early in the morning a signal was thrown out for the
squadron to get under way, which was done, the Mississippi leading
up the bay, and the Powhatan and the sailing ships following, with
the exception of the Lexington, which got aground just as her anchor
was away. This movement being perceived from shore, the Japanese
interpreters Moriyama Yenoske, Hernyama, Gohara, and Namura Gohachiro,
third interpreter, at once rowed off under much excitement. The latter
came aboard of the Mississippi, the others went on board of the
flag-ship; where they ascertained the commodore’s intention of going
higher up the bay, Yenoske objected most strenuously, urging that the
lives of each of the commissioners, and himself, were in danger for
not preventing (?) it, or remonstrating against it; or previously
advising their government; they said they could not tell but it was not
possible to calculate the consequences. In reply, the commodore said
that his instructions from the president were to go up to Yedo, and
that he would have done so, but for the feelings of friendship that he
entertained for the commissioners who preferred Yokohama for holding
the conferences. They gave it to be understood that the anchoring of
the ships off Yedo, would at once require of them the performance of
the “Hari Kari,” or happy despatch—that they would be necessitated to
this, according to a custom which it was no use to argue against, to
save themselves and those related to them from dishonor; and that such
was the case with each of the commissioners.

_Hari Kari_, meaning “happy despatch,” is the act of disembowelling
one’s self with a sword, among the Japanese. The young man, of
any family pretensions, is early indoctrinated in the art of
self-destruction. He is also instructed as to the occasions and
circumstances when this form of suicide is appropriate for a gentleman,
either to preserve himself or those connected with him from dishonor.
It is given him strictly in charge, to remember that the wearing of
the badge of his position—two swords—is also typical of his courage;
perhaps as Napoleon said, that he who cares nothing for his own life is
master of that of others; and that one of these swords, like the dagger
of Brutus, is for himself, when his country shall need his death. He
desires that it shall be said of him, what Malcolm says of Cawdor:—

              “Nothing in his life
    Became him like the leaving it: he died
    As one that had been studied in his death,
    To throw away the dearest thing he owed,
    As ’twere a careless trifle.”

Or as Decitas said of Anthony:-

                  “He is dead,
    By that self hand,
    Which writ his honor in the acts it did.”

[Illustration:  _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._
  NEAR YEDO.]

The commodore promised that the two steamers should only go up in
sight of Yedo, and without dropping anchor, return. This quieted their
apprehensions considerably. About twelve o’clock, when we had gotten
a distant view of the great city, the water suddenly shoaled so as to
prevent our further progress, when the boats that had been sounding
ahead were recalled, the steamers put about, and the whole squadron
proceeded directly down the bay to the anchorage off _Nati Sima_, or as
called by us, _Webster_ island, with the exception of the Mississippi
that was sent to the assistance of the Lexington, but that ship having
kedged off, we towed her to where the remaining ships had anchored.

Poor Namura Gohachiro, the third interpreter, who was aboard of us
during the day’s movements, looked the while like a man whose time
had come. He evinced no interest in anything that was going on around
him, and during the day did not look over the side. He complained of
sickness, and Jamaica ginger gave him no relief; he put aside his two
swords, and lay on the cabin sofa; his great inquietude lasted until we
had dropped anchor off Webster island, when he experienced the greatest
relief, going over the side into his boat, which we had towed during
the day, looking like one from around whose neck the halter had been
taken.

The yearly number of those who now commit the Hari Kari, or “happy
despatch,” in Japan, is estimated at four hundred.

The principal cause of the alarm of the Japanese officers, on the
approach of the ships to Yedo, was in some anticipated outbreak on the
part of its rabble, who must comprise a great number in a city of over
fourteen hundred thousand inhabitants. These lazzaroni have more than
once threatened the stability of the government; a huge unmanageable
mob threatening destruction, and deaf to reason; a horrid hydra easily
moved, but controlled only with great power and force. The effect upon
such a population of the novel sight of two large steamers off their
city, who in addition to other engines of destruction, were believed to
have on board steam-guns, can be easily imagined, especially when the
mob never expected to see such a sight again. Then, too, they are more
eager after novelty because of having been kept in ignorance by the
stringent laws against foreigners; and they have been taught that they
are beneath laws.

Such is the intense curiosity of the Japanese character, and the great
rush to gratify it, that at one time, before the signing of the treaty,
there was as many as seventy thousand people from all parts of the
country, congregated in Kanagawa and its immediate vicinity, eager
to get a look at our ships, and endeavoring to get aboard. To furnish
a pretext for their assemblage near the place of negotiations, many
resorted to the ruse of offering their services to the authorities,
in the event of the negotiations with the Americans, taking a hostile
turn. Many of the princes of the empire, anxious to see the ships and
not being able to get permission or authority to do so, resorted to the
plan of getting on board by going disguised in the suite of Moriyama
Yenoske, the chief interpreter. On one occasion—April 4th—a number
of Japanese gentlemen of rank, having obtained permission to visit the
ships, it was surmised, and upon very good authority, that the young
emperor himself had been aboard. His features would probably not be
known to one of his subjects outside of his immediate attendants or
council. The boldness and tact with which they manage _nayboen_ matters
is remarkable. The interpreters were always very cautious, and never
committed themselves by giving information. A great many of the better
class Japanese, who came aboard, were able to write, and sometimes
speak a little Dutch (Holland), and generally expressed themselves with
much correctness.

The next morning, after anchoring off _Nati Sima_, the Macedonian was
despatched to the Bonin islands with some agricultural implements, and
to look after some men, with orders to join us at Simoda.

While our surveying boats were running their line of soundings, and
triangulating in the vicinity of the anchorage, some of the officers,
in other boats, paid visits to Webster island, which afforded a fine
opportunity for exercise, besides being a very pretty view. Before
returning to the ships, we pulled into a number of little inlets and
small bays near by. The hill-sides were well wooded, and the deep green
of the thorough cultivation on terraces and steppes was delightful to
the eye. In some obscure coves, were built stone piers for landing, and
a number of junks had been beached, and their owners were preparing
them, or firing their bottoms, that the sea slime might be removed
and their speed increased. In others, the fronts of large quarries of
sandstone, and what appeared to be fuller’s earth, approach the edge of
the water. The latter was cut away in square blocks, leaving the face
of the hills like the smooth masonry of a curtain-wall and bastion.

On the morning of the 18th of April, the Vandalia and Lexington having
preceded us, the Powhatan and Mississippi steamed slowly out of the
bay of Yedo, running a line of soundings from the ships as we went,
after passing Sagama cape, the two ships stood over in the direction
of Ohosima, that the bearings of that island might be taken, and then
headed off southward and westward, leaving the bay of Kawatsu on our
right hand. The volcano on Ohorima was not in a state of eruption, as
when we passed it three months before. We soon saw Cape Idzoo, and by
three o’clock were up with Rock island, that marks the mouth, and ran
into the harbor of Simoda. This place from having been visited in May,
1849, by the English man-of-war Mariner, our own sailing ships, which
preceded us, were no novelty to the people, but the approach of the
Powhatan and Mississippi running in a straight line through the narrow
entrance, filled the height on either side with a throng, looking for
the first time, and with wonder, on steamships.




CHAPTER XII.


Simoda—in Japanese “Lowerfield”—situated in the principality of
Idzoo, which occupies about the same latitudinal, though not isothermal
lines—as our state of North Carolina, is a place containing a
population of twenty thousand. The streets are narrow, though regularly
laid out, and at their intersections have gates, which may be easily
closed in the event of any _emeute_. At their points are also placed
stone structures, surmounted by little roofs protecting copies of the
laws and municipal regulations so conspicuously posted, that all who
run, may read. The houses, which are usually and ornamentally stuccoed
in light blue and white diamond shapes, are nearly all of one story
with parapets, and without chimneys. Between the parapets wires are
stretched to prevent the bird, which “by the hoarseness of its note
doth indicate a crow,” from alighting on the roofs. The Japanese
certainly can’t regard them as a bird of evil omen, from the great
numbers that fill their streets. Perhaps they are kept from injury,
for sanitary purposes, like one more ungainly, found in our southern
cities. There are a number of temples in and near the place, dedicated
to different deities. Behind the town stretches a lovely level valley
for some miles, through which flows a little stream—Simoda gawa,
and surrounded on either side by towering bluff-hills, that make the
resemblance very great to the scenery on the Potomac, at Harper’s
Ferry. From this stream, junks and ships are supplied with fresh water,
and on its banks are built rice and grain mills, with undershot wheels,
to turn which, the water is diverted from its course by artificial
excavations. The amphitheatre of high hills that surround the place
in other directions, is very thickly wooded, and presents a green and
lovely prospect from the water. The town has about fifteen hundred
houses, and it is wonderful to see how many people a Japanese town will
hold.

The harbor of Simoda, though of rather difficult access at times to
sailing vessels, and subject to quite a heavy swell, when the wind
blows from a southerly direction, is quite a secure one, after getting
in. The entrance is narrow between high bluffs, but on passing inside,
the water spreads into a fan-shaped bay, with a bight, on which the
principal town of Simoda is situated, on the left hand, which place
is not visible until reaching a central island. It is encompassed on
every hand by high hills, bleak and uninviting in some patches, and
others cultivated in terraced fields of rice and wheat, or clothed in
the deep verdure of the pine and other trees. Across the bay of Simoda
about half a mile round a sweep of white level-shiny beach, on which
the waves sullenly chafe, is a little fishing village, called Kakizaki,
which also has its temples. Here was a spring possessed of sulphurous
qualities; and on the beach the ship’s seines were hauled with some
success.

Having to remain at Simoda some time, a party under Lieutenant Maury
was at once set at work to make a survey of the harbor. The officers
spent their time ashore in strolls through the town, visits to the
temples, rambles into the country, occasionally taking a gun, though
there was very little to kill. The people, when we landed, appeared
glad to see us, and were always inclined to be sociable, but for the
omnipresence of their police. They would gather around and examine
the cloth of our clothes with much curiosity—particularly the old
women—and the designs on our buttons. The remarkable and unremitting
espionage of the Japanese is everywhere shown. Should you give some
peasant a button, even while apparently out of sight of any one, it
will be most singular, if one of the officers does not return it to you
before or after you are on shipboard again. At first our steps were
dogged by the police wherever we went. This did not require much effort
in the town, but when we struck into the country and climbed hills with
thick and sharp undergrowth, these officers not being as well habited
as ourselves to withstand brier and thorn, their scratched legs
usually paid the penalty. Besides this, their lazy habits had made them
very indifferent pedestrians. In a walk of any length they generally
broke down; they would rub their legs and beg us to return, but as we
were not aware of having solicited the pleasure of their company, we
declined compliance with their requests. The commodore complained to
the acting chief magistrate, Kimakawa Kahei, of this practice of spying
upon the movements of his officers, and said, that if it were not
stopped, he should recommend them each to take a stick with them, and
stop it. They contended, that it was a precaution for our protection,
the people not yet being accustomed to the sight of us. They were
answered, that we felt ourselves quite competent for our own protection.

After this, these gentry, if they attempted to follow, were driven back
at once, and if they spied upon our movements at all, it was at such
a distance, that their presence was not perceived by us. In a short
time, the officers moved as freely in the area of country granted by
the treaty—a radius of about sixteen English miles, as if they were
in the United States. The chief objects of interest ashore to visit,
are the Sintoo, Buddhist temples, and some smaller ones, dedicated to
the tutelar deities of the soldiers, and the marines. The Japanese
display great rural taste always in their locations, selecting the most
picturesque, and at times, the most elevated spots for their erection.
Attached to these temples are usually _kungwas_, or places, where the
weary traveller may rest for the night, and get some tea and eatables
from the attendant priests. A Sintoo temple just at the end of the
principal street from the landing at Simoda, was the chief place for
the holding of official interviews, and subsequently for bazars. It
stood in the midst of a cemetery overhung by large trees, and steep
boulders of granite. The spacious and level yard in front, was divided
with stone crossings smoothly cut, and in it stood alone, a tower of
cyclopean masonry, in which was hung one of their sweet-toned bells.
Their manner of striking, which is by a piece of green wood swung
horizontally on the outside of the bell, gives a delightful softness to
the sound, while the proximity to the earth increases the distance at
which it may be heard. The carving and frieze work about the columns
at the entrance to this temple are as elaborate and fantastic as can
be imagined, while the little hydras and animal images perched upon
the eaves and roof, are as numerous as on a Chinese Joss house. The
interior is very plain, and the Sintooist worships no idol. Living
here was a priest named Dosangee—his head entirely shorn. He was
quite polite to us, and in return used to expect us to give him the
pronunciation of some words in English, which he was endeavoring to
learn by the aid of an English and Dutch dictionary, which he had. He
accompanied me through the temple.

In one part of the temple, the commodore, from the initials “M. C. P.”
on some boxes there seen, seemed to have had a room set apart. The
altar, in the place of worship was very plain, and had incense burning
on it. Its only ornaments consisted of bronze castings representing
their sacred crane on the back of a tortoise, and a small gilded
elephant. There, of course, was the invariable accompaniment of Sintoo
worship—a small mirror—an emblem of the soul’s perfect purity; or,
according to some, as plainly as the votary sees his own features in
that mirror, so plainly do the mediatory spirits to whom he prays,
see his spiritual and temporal wants. Such a style of worship would
scarcely answer for the belles of our land. As the devotee enters one
of these temples he first drops a few “cash” (about the fifteenth of a
cent) into a carefully-secured box at the door, then by shaking a lot
of sleigh-looking bells hanging from a beam, attracts to his prayers
the attention of his mediatory spirits, who only number some three
thousand—these are the _kami_, confreres of the spiritual emperor or
mikado, and analogous to the saints of the catholics.

The Sintoo mythology also comprehends a god of war. On entering the
grounds where one of these temples were located, we passed through
a military barrack, where were a number of small stallions tethered
from either cheek, wrong end foremost in their stalls, who grew quite
indignant in their cavortings at our presence. On our approach they
turned out their guard—three or four stupid-looking soldiers, with
tin-basin looking hats, and the calves of their legs swathed in blue
cotton cloth, upholding the insignia of rank of their chief, which were
cruciform lances in coverings of shark-skin. In the building, we saw
on the walls, offerings of swords and bows, from those who had deemed
themselves miraculously preserved in battle.

In the Mariners’ temple we saw suspended from boards on the walls small
_queues_ of the Japanese seamen, who had undergone the imminent peril
of shipwreck, together with details of the particular storm, pictures
of foundering junks, and the names of those who escaped. The parting
with this little pig-tail of hair, the Japanese sailor thinks is one of
the greatest sacrifices that he can make to his patron divinity. The
approach to this place was over a fine balustraded bridge, and under
a noble well-planted avenue of the yew-pine tree. Another _yasiro_,
on a mountain-side, is reached by a direct and continuous flight of
over a hundred steps. Over at _Kakisaki_, in one of the temples, is an
allegorical painting of some size, the subject of which is very nearly
an embodiment of “Pilgrim’s Progress,” and the hero is as defiant as
Saint George with the Dragon. The plan of the picture is a birds’-eye
view. A horrid ogre or devil dwells deep in a cavernous recess or hell,
and his daily food is women, many of whom are confined in the gloomy
precincts of his prison. A young prince prays for power to rescue them,
which is granted, and he is provided with a potent potion. Disguised
as a pedlar he crosses dangerous chasms and descends steep cliffs; at
last, arriving at the door of the devil’s abode, he gains admittance,
and gives the devil the potion, which he drinks and becomes drunk,
when the young champion despatches him, and sets at liberty all the
unfortunate victims that he has there confined.

This explanation is from memory, and may not be entirely correct.

At the first-named temple, a party of our officers, who taking a long
tramp on a hunt, during the day, did not get back until a late hour of
the night, desired to lay on the mats in the _kunqwa_ until morning,
and threw themselves down. The Japanese strongly objected to this, and
insisted upon their going off to their ships. This, on account of the
lateness of the hour, they declined doing. The officials went off and
came back with a lot of soldiers and a number of lanterns, and were
finally guilty of the rudeness of pulling them by the feet. At this,
our officers kicked over their lanterns, and cocked and capped their
pieces, when the valiant assailants vanished at once. Tatsnoske, one
of the chief officers of the place, at four o’clock in the morning,
then went off to the flag-ship, had the commodore woke up, and desired
him to order these officers off to the ship. The commodore refused to
do any such thing; and the next morning sent the same officers and a
captain of marines to demand an apology for their conduct from Karakaha
Kahai, which was given without delay.

There being no treaty of commerce with the Japanese, preparatory to
such a result hereafter, a number of our coins had been delivered to
them before leaving the bay of Yedo, that they, might be assayed at the
capital, and the relative value, with their own, established. In the
meantime, it was no doubt intended, or thought on our side, that as
the people in the stores were willing to sell, and our officers were
continually offering to purchase little curiosities and other articles
of their handicraft that were to be found in their shops, that in this
way, things would find their level, and an impromptu trade, as it were,
spring up. This notion proved a mistaken one; things were purchased,
but they were paid for in silver dollars at the rate of twelve hundred
cash each, and not directly to the seller, but through a government
officer called _gayoshio_.

In strolling the streets of Simoda you see old crones, arranging, in
the open air, their warp for weaving. The personal pulchritude of the
cadaverous-complexioned Japanese women, is not much under the best
circumstances, but when it is remembered that on marrying, they shave
off their eyebrows, and blacken their teeth with some iron rust and
acid, as a badge of the marital state, their appearance becomes most
repulsive. The younger women, with their elaborate arrangement of
hair, who have not yet undergone this process of disfigurement, though
rather ungainly in gait, owing to the use of clogs, and wearing about
the hips an awkward compressing scarf, are quite good-looking and with
lighter complexions, have also much better-shaped eyes than the Chinese.

The only wheeled vehicle you may see is a rude hand-cart, the wheels
without tires. Should you meet a man on the back of an ox bringing to
town bundles of wood, the sight of your barbarian garments are very
apt to incense him greatly; and the rider, disturbed by his movements
dismounts, takes him by the tether, and leads him aside.

The fronts of the shops are closed with sliding screens of paper,
oiled to admit the light, and the floors raised about two feet from
the ground are covered with mat-cushions, upon which, _a-la-Turk_,
sits the shopkeeper, who has left his straw sandals at the door. You
would scarcely be expected to remove your boots at every shopdoor
you entered, but if you stepped up on the platform the shopkeeper
would intimate that your leather shoon would mar the whiteness of
his mats. The plan of purchase was mostly pantomimic. Pointing to
the article, you ask, “How mutchee?” The shopkeeper repeating your
“how mutchee?” as he makes a mental calculation, proceeds to hold up
the fingers of one or both hands before you, each finger being one
hundred cash—estimating twelve hundred to the dollar. The purchase
completed, you do not pay the seller, but the articles with your name,
and his mark are sent to the government officer, _gayoshio_, when the
imperial paw is placed upon the specie you pay, and the seller is apt
to get the amount in copper coin. By an arbitrary decision they made
their itzeboo—a square piece of silver with the government stamp,
equal to a Spanish dollar—and as they could take this dollar and coin
nearly three itzeboos from it, it became a very good operation for the
imperial treasury, at no time suffering from over-filled coffers.

The religion of the Japanese enjoins cleanliness of person upon its
votaries, but can scarcely divert the repulsive and indecent manner in
which it is obtained. At the bath-houses in Simoda the sexes of all
ages bathe indiscriminately together.

The Japanese in their intercourse with us, were always pertinacious in
assuring us, that they were not Chinese; indeed they would have been
very indignant to be thought of a kindred race. They did not take long
to find out, that we were not Dutch. They would mention derisively
the fact of the length of intercourse the Chinese had had with other
countries, and yet, that they had never built square-rigged vessels
like ours; they intimated more enterprise than this for themselves.
After the signing of the treaty with us the imperial edict preventing
the building of their vessels, without open sterns, was repealed. The
larger junks usually laid in the bay of _Sirahama_, further northward:
those who came to Simoda, ran in to make a harbor, when the weather
became threatening, or were engaged in bringing copper ore, from some
neighboring province, and carrying back charcoal and wood.

The Macedonian, after a little over two weeks absence, returned from
the Bonin islands, bringing the intelligence, that the man, that we had
previously left at Port Lloyd, had decamped from there on some whaler,
after regaling himself on Uncle Sam’s bullocks. We hailed her approach
with much gratification, as she brought sixty large sea-turtles—a
perfect God-send—an oasis in the desert of salt junk. “Soup! soup!”
resounded in the messes, louder than the “Beef! beef!” in the American
camp, that invoked the thunders of Henry.

The Lexington was sent to Loo-Choo to look after things till the
return of the other ships; carrying out the recommendation contained
in the introduction to the work of Golownin: “Provided judicious means
shall be used and a foundation laid by a progressive acquaintance
through Loo-Choo.” The Macedonian, Vandalia, and Southampton, were
despatched to Hakodade, or as it was then spelt on Russian authority,
Chackodade, in the island of Yeso. A poor fellow, killed by falling
from the topsail yard of the Powhatan, was buried without difficulty or
objection in the ground of a temple, back of Kakizaki.

On a fine sunshiny morning, in the latter part of April, I had landed,
according to previous appointment, to take a botanical tramp into the
country with the author of the “Middle Kingdom,” and with a gentleman
from South Carolina, our botanist. I reached the shore before them,
and, a number of the villagers around, stood on the glistening white
beach between Simoda and the fishing village of Kakizaki, watching the
lazy swell as it came in a roll against Centre Sima, or broke with a
low splash through its Gothic cavern, when I was approached by two
young Japanese, whose dress and address told, that they were gentlemen
in their land. They wore the rich brocade breeches; the handles of
their short and long swords were decorated with amulets, and the light
blue oval on the summit of their fresh shaven polls, shone far smoother
than “a stubble land at harvest home.” After the characteristic bended
and knee-pressing salutation, accompanied with the aspirated “Eh!”
which only a Japanese can do exactly, which I jocularly replied to with
“Abeyo!” they came quite close to me. Pointing to our different ships
in the harbor, they attempted to pronounce their names, but as they
scarcely succeeded, either in their sequence or their articulation,
particularly of Mississippi and Powhatan, I did it for them, and at
their request wrote all of their names down, with one of their camel’s
hair pencils. This done, they affected to examine with some interest
the chain attached to my “tokay,” or watch, and at the same time
slipped into the bosom of my vest an enveloped letter, which noticing,
I immediately attempted to withdraw, when they gently restrained my
hand, cast an anxious glance around, and gave a most imploring look
for secrecy. A moment’s thought, and I was willing to indulge them in
this, believing the document to have some reference to a matter which
had been mooted by the younger officers of the squadron, of which I
was one. Just after this, a couple of the resident officers came up
from the direction of Simoda, whose approach was the signal for the
scattering of the villagers, who are not permitted to stand and gaze
on a stranger. Between them and my incognito epistolary friends,
salutations were formally interchanged, when both parties moved off
in opposite directions. The examining look which accompanied these
otherwise very ordinary politenesses, on the part of those from Simoda,
caused the idea to pass through my mind that the others were from
another province.

By this time, my friends from the flag-ship having joined me, we struck
into the country to the southward, to take what in the “pigeon” dialect
of the Chinaman, is called a “look see” at the botany of Japan, which
those who have more of this pleasant information than myself, represent
as being of much interest.

Our path led through a very broken yet well-wooded and cultivated
country. We entered a small building used as a schoolhouse, and also
as a place of worship. In a room was a colossal figure of some female
deity in a sitting posture, which, not being a Buddhist representation,
must have been intended for a likeness of _Ten-sio-dai-zin_, the
especial deity of Japan. Officers who had seen it before us, looked
upon it as a fine specimen of their casting in bronze, but we found
it on examination to be of wood, painted in imitation. We had an
opportunity of seeing the little dwarfed trees which they are so
skilful in preserving; and in front of many of the houses, different
trees trained in the form of animals, with sea-shells to represent
the eyes. The cultivation, which is very close and clean, was mostly
in terraces and between hills. Occasionally we reached a level field,
which was being ploughed. This is done with a small plough, with a
single hand and beam, the share being like an iron scoop, not of much
diameter. It is drawn by an ox in traces, and with wooden saddle,
while a small boy leads him with a stick attached to a ring in the
nose, and a man holds the handle of the diminutive earth-scratcher.
Little pathway streams are turned to use by being made to fall into
wooden troughs on the end of balanced wooden levers, which filling and
precipitating at intervals, with a weight on the opposite end of the
beam, are made to pound rice in mortars. We encountered any number of
wayside shrines, mostly made by placing small stone images in little
coves: occasionally a short flight of steps led up to one. At these the
wayfarer prays.

About two o’clock in the day we came upon a large urban Buddhist
temple. The grounds around were quite extensive and well cultivated.
You entered them under a number of steep-roofed gateways, guarded by a
number of little stone-lieutenants to Buddha, who seemed to be armed
with besoms to sweep away evil spirits when they should visit the
premises at the pale glimpses of the moon. The building was larger than
any I had seen in Simoda. The interior being unsealed overhead, you
could look up through rough hewn timbers to the thatching of the roof.
The floors, brightly polished, were covered with a white dust, as if
the building was neighbor to a flour-mill. The grain of the wood of the
large unpolished columns around the altar, was very beautiful. Buddhas
in any number were around the room. Black barrel-shaped “tom-toms” were
in the middle of the floor, the beating on which, by the shiny-headed
priests, is intended to attract the attention of their divinities to
their worship, as a daguerreotypist in taking your picture first tells
you, “Now it commences.” On one side of the main entrance there was a
native inscription: “The laws are ever revolving;” on the other, “The
period of Buddha is near: remember it.” To the beams inside were pasted
a number of strips of white paper, which when blank are called _gohir_,
and intended as emblems of purity; and when written upon, according
to some, are inscribed with moral and religious sentences. Those that
I noticed were covered with Japanese characters, which I was told
were the names of those buried in an adjoining cemetery, for whom
mass had been performed. In the cemetery near by were a great number
of tombs—little square stone columns very close together, because
their dead were buried in a sitting posture. On all of these you saw
a compound character, meaning “Returned to vacuity,” and underneath
the inscription told that Leu-tah-churo, or somebody else, had gone to
nothingness, in such a year of the reign of _Tairi_.

Eight lascivious-looking priests resided at the temple, having the
receipts from the _kunqua_ attached, as a part of their revenue.

The hour of the day having arrived, when that tocsin of man’s soul, the
dinner-bell, would have been heard, if at home, we seated ourselves on
the front steps of the temple to partake of a little “chow-chow.” While
thus engaged the incidents of the morning came to my recollection, and
I handed over my epistle “_extraordinaire_,” which I had gotten from
the two Japanese, to my friend our interpreter, to get an inkling of
what it was all about, at the same time giving him my surmises as to
its contents. It was of much more import; he thought the commodore
should see it, promising to return it to me. As there were a number
around us, no doubt indulging in the Japanese espionage, I only got at
the time, the superscription, which was: “A secret communication, for
the American men-of-war ships, to go up higher.”

On leaving this place we clambered to the summit of high, bleak hills,
with a very white volcanic formation, at the top, so bright that at
a distance it might well have been taken for snow. The ascent was
anything but agreeable, as we were impeded by thick bushes, brier and
bramble. Two Japanese who attempted to play pilot, fared worst, but
upon getting up some distance had the “sava” to see that going ahead
were as well as going back. We rested at an abandoned quarry on the
summit, and from here had a fine view of the surrounding country. My
companions having filled the leaves of an old census-book with little
botanical specimens, comprising rare little plants and cosy little wild
flowers of every hue, together with what they thought were some new
specimens of the fern family, we descended into a pretty little valley
waving in wheat, and at sundown were at Simoda.

That night the officer of the mid-watch of the Mississippi heard the
words “American! American!” pronounced in a low tone from the top
of the gangway-ladder, and immediately two young Japanese descended
to the deck. They made signs to him of great fatigue, held up their
tender though blistered hands, and desired to cast off their boat from
the ship, which they were not permitted to do. An attempt was made to
comprehend them by means of a Chinese servant, who was awoke for the
purpose, but the domestic celestial insisted that they had “rice for
sale.” The commander of the Mississippi directed them to be put on
board of the flag-ship. Here it was ascertained they were from Yedo;
that they were desirous of coming to our country, and that, unable
to effect that object or have communication with us when we lay off
Yokohama, they had followed us, at much risk, in an open boat, from
the bay of Yedo to our anchorage at Simoda. Their plan was, after
getting on board of us, to permit their boat to go adrift, allowing
their swords to remain in her, which family relics the Japanese regard
as very heir-looms, not to be parted with but in the last extremity,
and by this means to produce the belief that their owners had been
drowned when the boat should be picked up. Fearing there might be some
deception in the matter, perhaps a ruse to see in what faith we were
prepared to observe their laws, which we were aware prohibited any
of their people from leaving Japan for a foreign country, they were
ordered to be put ashore in a ship’s boat at a point where they would
not be liable to observation, which was done, the hour being nearly
two in the morning. On reaching the beach they soon disappeared in the
woods.

A few days afterward, some of our officers in their strolls ashore,
ascertained that there were two Japanese confined in a cage at a little
barrack back of the town, and on going there they were found to be the
persons who had paid the midnight visit to our ships, and they also
proved to be my unfortunate friends of the letter. They did not appear
greatly down-cast by their situation, and one of them wrote in his
native character on a piece of board, and passed through the bars of
his cage, to one of our surgeons present, what follows:—

 When a hero fails in his purpose, his acts are then regarded as those
 of a villain and robber. In public have we been seized and pinioned,
 and darkly imprisoned for many days; the village elders and headmen
 treat us disdainfully, their oppressions being grievous indeed;
 therefore looking up while yet we have nothing wherewith to reproach
 ourselves, it must now be seen whether a hero will prove himself to be
 one indeed.

 Regarding the liberty of going through the sixty states (of Japan) as
 not enough for our desires, we wished to make the circuit of the five
 great continents; this was our heart’s wish for a long time. Suddenly
 our plans are defeated, and we find ourselves in a half-sized house,
 where eating, resting, sitting, and sleeping, are difficult, nor can
 we find our exit from this place. Weeping we seem as fools, laughing
 as rogues—alas! for us, silent we can only be.

                                       ISAGI KÓÓDA,
                                       KWANSUCHI MANJI.

The commodore, it is said, did not hear of their capture and
confinement, until the next morning, when he sent some officers ashore
to see what might be done in the way of intercession, but on reaching
the barrack, it was found that they had that morning been sent to the
city of Yedo, and as the attendant at the place made sign, for the
purpose of being beheaded.

The following is the translation of the letter, which the unfortunate
aspirants, for a sight of the great world, beyond their hermetic
empire, placed in the breast of my vest, the neat and sharply-defined
characters of whose original, as it lies before me, would assure even
one, who did not comprehend their language, that it had been pencilled
by men of intelligence and taste.

 Two scholars of Yedo, in Japan, named Isagi Kóóda and Kwansuchi Manji,
 present this letter to the high officers or others who manage affairs.
 That which we have received is meager and trifling, as are our persons
 insignificant, so that we are ashamed to come before distinguished
 personages. We are ignorant of arms and their uses in battle, nor
 do we know the rules of strategy and discipline. We have in short,
 uselessly whiled away our months and years, and know nothing. We heard
 a little of the customs and knowledge of the Europeans and Americans,
 and have desired to travel about in the five great continents, but the
 maritime prohibitions of our country are exceeding strict, so that for
 the foreigners to enter the “inner land” or for natives to go to other
 countries, are alike among the immutable regulations. Therefore our
 desire to travel has been checked, and could only go to and fro in our
 breasts, unable to find utterance, and our feet so hampered that we
 could not stir.

 This had been the case many years, when happily the arrival of so many
 of your ships anchoring in our waters, now for several days, and our
 careful and repeated observation of the kind and humane conduct of
 your officers, and their love for others, has revived the cherished
 desire of years, which now struggles for its exit. We have decided on
 a plan, which is, very privately to take us aboard of your ships and
 carry us to sea, that we may travel over the five continents, even if,
 by so doing, we disregard our laws. We hope you will not regard our
 humble request with disdain, but rather enable us to carry it out.
 Whatever we are able to do to serve, will be considered as an order so
 soon as we hear it.

 When a lame man sees another walking, or a pedestrian sees another
 riding, would he not be glad to be in his place? How much more to us,
 who, for our whole lives, could not go beyond 30° E. and W., or 25° N.
 to S., when we behold you come riding on the high wind, and careering
 over the vast waves, with lightning speed coasting along the five
 continents, does it appear as if the lame had a way to walk, or the
 walker an opportunity to ride!

 We hope you who manage affairs will condescend to grant and regard
 our request, for as the restrictions of our country are not yet
 removed, if this matter becomes known, we shall have no place to flee,
 and doubtless will suffer the extremest penalty, which result would
 greatly grieve your kind and benevolent hearts toward your fellow-men.

 We trust to have our request granted, and also that you will secrete
 us until you sail, so as to avoid all risk of endangering life. When
 we return here at a future day, we are sure that what has passed will
 not be very closely investigated. Though rude and unpractised in
 speech, our desires are earnest, and we hope you will regard us in
 compassion, nor doubt or oppose our request. April 11th.

An additional note enclosed, was:—

 The enclosed letter contains the earnest request we have had for many
 days, and which we tried in many ways to get off to you at Yokohama,
 in a fishing boat by night, but the cruisers were too thick, and
 none others were allowed to come alongside, so that we were in great
 uncertainty what to do. Learning that the ships were coming here, we
 have come to wait, intending to seize a punt and come off, but have
 not succeeded. Trusting that your honors will consent, after people
 are quiet to morrow night, we will be at Kakizaki in a punt, at a
 place where there are no houses, near the beach. There we greatly
 desire you to come and meet us, and thereby carry out our hopes to
 their fruition. April 25th.

The Japanese smaller ordnance is quite defective, some of their pieces
loading at the breech, by unscrewing. Many of their gentlemen, among
their other accomplishments, study the military art. To this number,
and their artillery officers, our handsome small pieces,—Lieutenant
Dalgren’s twelve-pounder brass howitzers—without a superfluous ounce
of metal, and probably as admirable guns as are to be found in use
among any nation—were always objects of great interest. The Japanese
were presented with one of these howitzers before we left the bay of
Yedo, but none of the lock-wafers, or boxes of canister, or other fixed
ammunition for them, were given, nor any instruction as to the manner
in which they were made.

The following is a translation of a letter from a military man from
Yedo, who, for the single object of collecting information, had been
following the squadron, in the hope of meeting one of our officers. He
was a gentleman of some rank, and had influence with several men in
authority at Simoda, who visited him and never prevented his coming
aboard. The letter was written in Dutch, and as a specimen of progress
of military science in Japan, and search for other information, is not
uninteresting.


A GREAT SECRET.

 The law in Japan will not allow us to speak or to write with people
 of another country. Yesterday, on my return from the ship, I found
 that out, and it was not pleasant—Now you’ll be on shore to day, with
 friendship; I can not control (check) my desire to speak in writing,
 and shall follow up the prompting of my soul.

 At an early age I commenced studying the European and Chinese art of
 war with the aid of my teachers at Yedo; the European is certainly
 superior to the Chinese mode of warfare, I think and know more of it.
 On the arrival of the American ships off Uraga, Kanagawa, Yokahama,
 and Simoda, I went to and fro to those places, and on board of the
 ships at every opportunity, I saw there several instruments and
 machines, but don’t know enough about it. I could not speak with the
 Americans for the persons who visit the ships in business, would not
 allow it.

 Where is the island Borin,[2] and who lives there? Tell me, if you
 please, the names of some great countries.

 [2] Probably Bonin island, known to the Japanese as Moninsoma.

 What are _Kanaka Wich_, to what country do they belong?[3]

 [3] Probably Kanaka, Sandwich island, he alludes to.

 What are the implements at the disposal of an officer, who commands
 ten thousand soldiers in the field?

 What are the advantages of the steam-gun?

 Give me a recipe to make percussion-caps.

 In a Dutch book on military art I found, that for a newly-invented
 gun or _musket_ the percussion-caps are attached to the cartridge by
 a thread. Why don’t the Americans have such muskets, haven’t they yet
 discovered how?

 Why do people from other countries live in Loo-Choo?

 Simoda on the horizon from the north pole in what degree? And in what
 degree to the east from London? a few days ago the masters of the
 Mississippi have been measuring, they must know.

 If you will be kind enough to give me the information, what is the
 most useful and latest invention in America for military men. I shall
 be obliged to you and be always ready to oblige you in return.

 It will worry your mind to read my letter and I find expressions for
 what my soul suggests.

  B. N. M., or (X.)

 I hope you will answer my letter, I go on board of the ships in the
 boats that take the water. I can not go on any other boat, and am
 always in the hope that the boat will be sent to the ship where you
 are.

 I shall go to Yedo and be back in Simoda on the return of the ships
 from Hakodade, and hope to see you then in good health.

 Query. The great Mexico empire, which belongs to the powerful United
 States, where is that situated?

 The authorities have notified me, that I was not allowed to receive
 Americans at the house and converse with them.

 I therefore write this letter and shall be on board your ship
 to-morrow and speak with you.

The following day he was on board, according to promise, in the suite
of some Japanese officers. There was no opportunity to answer his
questions that day, and on the return of the ships from Hakodade he did
not make his appearance, retained by _illness_ or otherwise at Yedo,
that is all. The officers heard from him, but never saw him again after
that day, and his questions remained unanswered. “Give me a recipe to
make percussion-caps.”

We noticed the number of matchlocks, that the Japanese were armed
with, when we landed first in Japan—at Gorihama. The Dutch writers
say, that they are aware of the superiority of the musket, but that a
deficiency of flints in the geological formation of their country, and
their determined aversion to dependence upon foreigners for anything
essential to their military equipment, prevents their adoption. Their
curiosity about the mode of making percussion-caps, and the “wafers”
for the howitzers, was very great at all times.

It was well enough with the Japanese, as long as they remained
secluded, but when the visit of the American ships gave their military
men an opportunity of seeing what great improvements had been made in

          “——— the mortal engines,
    Whose rude throats, Jove’s dread clamors conterfeit,”

the contrast showed them the defectiveness of their defences, and with
an enterprise far ahead of their Cathayan neighbors, they at once
proceeded to cudgel their brains to see how their security might be
made greater. They at first thought of fortifying Simoda, but being
told that it could never become a great commercial place, they gave
that up. Izabavo, one of their most prominent engineers, was told to
make a report as to the fortification of Uraga, because with more
sagacity than that displayed by the Americans, they know its importance
with reference to their capital. Yedo is the London—the Paris of
Japan. When it falls, the empire goes with it. They know that the
supplies for this enormous place are gotten coastwise by the junks, who
come into the bay, and that the blockading of Uraga in the bay of Yedo,
easily reached, would stop the throat of the Japanese empire.

Izabavo reported, that, as no two fortifications could protect Uraga,
and that the width and roughness of the bay at times, and the depth
of water, would make floating batteries impracticable, a gunboat
system, such as was once adopted by our own government, must be their
defence. These matters were discussed by the imperial council, as also
the reorganization of their army on the European plan, that is the
having a standing army, that would obey promptly, the behests of the
centralized government at Yedo, and quiet any refractory sentiment
of their thousands, like the _coup d’etat_ of the 2d of December
by Napoleon III., instead of each of the princes of the empire
contributing a quota of troops, as now.

We had now lain nearly a month at Simoda, seeing more of Japan than
during the two months we lay in the bay of Yedo. We had enjoyed the
walks ashore, we had enjoyed baths from a fine spring, and picknicked
in the woods of Sarahama. But we had missed Foogee Yama, which at all
other points we thought ubiquitous. I had climbed the high hills back
of Kakizaki, to get another look at the mountain, but other and higher
hills more distant, obstructed the view.

_Foogee Yama_ since our arrival in the waters of Japan, as the Howadjis
on the Nile tell of the great pyramid, seemed to follow us wherever we
went. When the cold clear morning of February found us running into
the bay of Kawatsoo, we saw over our bowsprit Foogee, looming up in
austere magnificence. When our colors were hauled down in the evening
at Yokohama, every one admired the majestic beauty of Foogee peering
like a ponderous pile of marble out of the furnace of sunset. If the
rains fell heavily during the night, when the curtain of cloud lifted
up in the morning, in patches here and there, Foogee appeared to
wear under its mantle of chilling cold, a garment of genial green; and
when the Mississippi lay at Webster island, from her hurricane-deck,
above the line of pines that covered the bold bluffs of the shore,
sometimes near, sometimes afar off, its summit clothed in fleecy clouds
of deferential beauty, grandly shone the towering mound; so now,
land-locked and our view shut in by the high hills around Simoda, we
missed Foogee Yama.

[Illustration:  _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._
  FOOGEE YAMA.]




CHAPTER XIII.


On the 13th of May, the fifty days after the signing of the treaty
having nearly expired, the Powhatan and Mississippi started for
Hakodadi, leaving the storeship Supply at anchor at Simoda. Instead
of keeping in shore, the two steamers stood off and ran between _Oho
Sima_ and _Ja Sima_. The day being clear, _Foogee_ from his aerial
height was soon looking at us. We ran quite close to the southwestern
side, and had a good view of Oho Sima. The whole island appears to
have been upheaved by volcanic action from the sea. From the jaws
of a basin-shaped crater, issued white smoke and ashes. The side of
the mountain next to us was marked by large fissures, or streaked
with streams of lava. The vegetation on many of the slopes presented
a pretty picture, when contrasted with the dull-charred mass that
encompassed it. There are said to be three towns on the place. We saw
two quite plainly, but where their harbor is, or how the steep shores
are approached in rough weather, it was difficult to perceive.

After rounding Oho Sima, we stood into the land, and during the day
ran in full sight of the shores of Niphon, running northward from the
entrance of the bay of Yedo. The fields of barley, just assuming its
yellow dress, were spread out as far as the vision extended inland.
Both ships stopped at intervals to make soundings. At one time, when we
had stopped for this purpose, and got bottom, at twenty-eight fathoms,
on what is called an “over-fall,” the opposition of current and wind
made a “chow-chow” sea, which swashed over our rail, while the fine
buoyant sea-boats of Japanese fishermen around, danced dryly like ducks.

This day, I think it was, marked what may be considered a new item
in the history of typography. We had on board one of the little
engines, which from the days of Faustus have evolved more power, than
the ponderous ones, that revolved our paddles, and by its aid, in a
sea-way, an intelligent midshipman, familiar with the art preservative
of arts, “wet sheets,” and printer’s ink, caused to be struck off
copies of the commodore’s correspondence with the Japanese, and of the
surveys of Lieutenant Maury. That little press deserves a place in the
patent-office, near the one, from which came “Poor Richard’s Almanack.”

After a run of three days, standing in for the shore during the day,
and off during the night, making soundings at intervals, seeing an
occasional school of whales, and our daily observations and reckonings
showing a strong current in our favor, going to prove—what has been
advanced by many—the existence of a continuous current on the coast
of Japan, similar in character and direction to the Gulf stream on
our coast, we made the entrance to the straits of Sangar. The land
on either side was quite notable. That on the northern or island of
Yeso side, bold and sharply defined, while a singular conformation
on the Niphon or southern side, looked exactly the profile of the
Leviathans that frequent the waters in its vicinity—“wery like a
whale.” On entering we found a strong eastwardly tide running through
and against us. By sundown we had run some distance in, under the high
shores of the northern side, when it came on thick, and the heads of
both steamers were put outward. We had made during the day a point
of longitude further to the east than any, that we had reached since
leaving the United States. Soundings were made every fifteen minutes
during the night, and daylight found us enveloped in one of the dense
fogs, from which the Japanese empire in this section, according to
Golownin, is seldom free during the entire year. Both ships had to
announce their proximity for some hours, to one another, by the use
of their steam-whistles and the striking of their bells. When the fog
lifted on the morning of the 17th, we found that the tidal current
during the night, had set us in, rather than out, and holding on
westwardly for a short time, we discovered over a low peninsula nearly
ahead, described by the Russian captain Ricord, in his voyages for the
liberation of Golownin, the Macedonian, Vandalia, and Southampton,
at anchor inside of the harbor of Hakodadi. We soon rounded a high
promontory, and stood into a magnificent bay. The distance we had
run from Simoda was six hundred and nine miles. About 11 o’clock we
anchored within gun-shot of the town; it may be near the spot, where
forty-one years before lay the imperial Russian brig Diana, to procure
the release from an imprisonment in stockade cages of three years, of
her former commander and his companions, by the Japanese—after three
voyages, in which she was successful.

The temperature, on our arrival, we found very materially different
from what we had left at Simoda; the difference of latitude is about
seven degrees. The snow still lay on the mountains around, and the air
made thick boots and an overcoat comfortable.

The bay of Hakodadi is most spacious and majestic in its sweep, and
for facility of entrance and security of anchorage, it can scarcely
be surpassed by any other in the world. The width at its mouth is so
great that no two fortifications could command or protect it, yet the
curvature of the high land around is such as to afford the greatest
shelter. For all the uses of Americans it is worth fifty Simodas; here
our enterprising whalers, after being buffeted about in the rude
seas of Ochotsk and Japan in its vicinity, may ere long repair to
recruit and refit, and procure supplies of wood and water, instead of
being compelled as hitherto, to make the long stretch to the Sandwich
Islands. Besides this, a line drawn on the arc of a great circle from
California to North China, passes through the straits of Sangar and by
Hakodadi; and here, and not at Simoda, which has been mentioned as a
depot, would coal have to be placed for the use of steamers between San
Francisco and Shanghae.

It was agreed by all the old Mediterranean cruisers aboard, as we
dropped anchor, that the view around was the counterpart of Gibraltar
and its vicinity. The northern side from where we lay was the main land
of Spain; the low sandy peninsula, over which we could easily see the
water of Sangar, was the “neutral ground,” encircling Smugglers’ bay;
on our left hand lay a small fishing-village, which corresponded to the
Spanish town of Algeciras. The southern part of the hill under which
the town is, was Point Europa; the hill itself, in its high and rugged
isolation, was the frowning rock that enclosed the sulphurous engines,
while in the distance, across the straits, on the north end of Niphon,
now well discerned, or vaguely seen, as the sun shines out or the mists
vary, is the natural prototype of Ape’s hill, in Africa, whose simial
inhabitants are said to find their way most mysteriously across the
Mediterranean. To my eye, the place bore a great resemblance to Cape
Town, Cape of Good Hope, if the mount in the rear were little more
flattened on the summit, while an adjoining hill was the “Lion’s Rump.”

The city—containing about four thousand houses, in which there is an
average of four persons—is built in a convex form reaching the water’s
edge, and at the base of a very high and abrupt circular hill, called
_Hakodadi Yama_. The most prominent objects are the temples, one of
which is some two hundred feet square, whose red tile roofs reflect
the sun, and suggest the idea of a Portuguese place. The principal
streets are wide, running parallel with the water, rolled with gravel,
and very cleanly kept. Those that intersect them are narrower, and
closed with gateways of wood. From walls at either end of the place,
and entrenchments dug on other sides, it must have been the object
to fortify it. The houses of wood, and with more stories and larger
than those of Simoda, have great projecting eaves. The clap-boards
making the covering of the roof are singularly confined in their
places by a number of cobble-stones: such a place would be hard to
take by street-fighting, for every roof would furnish missiles for the
annoyance of assailants. Every precaution seems to be taken against
fire—brooms and barrels of water surmounting each house and before
every door. At some places they have primitive little fire-engines,
which appear to be stationary. The streets are thronged with the police
who are very numerous, armed with sword, and organized as military,
and any number of miserable-looking curs, called _yenos_, resembling
shouds, or dogs bred between the wolf and the dog; meaner looking than
the _cayotes_ of California.

Having no previous knowledge of our intended visit, a perfect panic
prevailed among the people of the place on the arrival of our sailing
ships in their bay, which was increased by the arrival of the two
fire-ships. The municipal authorities, it is said, were the first to
leave the place; and the women were sent after them. For several days
long lines of horses, packed with movables, could be seen leaving the
City and winding away over a long sandy plain, like a string of camels
in a desert.

The cause of all this commotion was afterward found to be a belief
among the inhabitants, that our visit was to bring them to account
for having imprisoned some American seamen who had been shipwrecked
on their coast some years ago. A number of the junks in the harbor
also left, though there were some two hundred at anchor continually
during our stay. It required some time to pacify the people; although
six weeks had elapsed since the signing of the treaty, the authorities
protested that they had heard nothing of it, and consequently nothing
of the intended visit of the squadron. They said they could not
take the responsibility of having any communication with us, except
to furnish wood and water. They represented their position as
embarrassing, and hoped that we would not come ashore until the arrival
of higher officers than themselves.

In the meantime a survey of the harbor was proceeded in; some very good
wild game was killed on the opposite shore from the town, and our seine
being hauled, yielded nice salmon and quantities of shellfish, which
were most acceptable.

The second day after our arrival, the commodore—varying from his
usual rule of only seeing the highest officer of a place, who would
have been, in this instance, Prince Matsmai Idzee-no-kami, residing
at the city of Matsmai, not far distant—granted an interview on the
Mississippi, to Matsmai Kageyu, deputy of the prince of Matsmai, or
freely translated, “Prince’s family’s great officer,” and to Yendo
Matazaymon, an officer of Hakodadi. The boats in which they came off
were like others, but were the first and only ones that I saw _rowed_
in Japan instead of sculled; and this was done by continually revolving
the oar as they pulled. The rowers, who were numerous, were dressed
in long, green gowns, and characters on the shoulders told whom they
served, like the inscription about the neck of the thrall of Cedric the
Saxon.

These officers said, not being able to divine the cause of our visit,
they had concluded it to be a predatory one; and that the people
possessed of this idea had been leaving the place with their movables,
and that the stampede still continued.

On delivering to them a letter from the commissioners, however, and
showing them the treaty, their anxiety was at once allayed. When told
that we would not be followed by their police when we came ashore for
a walk, they said very well, but that they thought that our officers
and theirs being seen in friendly intercourse, would have a good effect
with the people, and cause those who had left, to return. They said
they had nothing at Hakodadi to dispose of but fish-oil, dried fish,
and deerskins. The relative value of our currency and theirs, was
settled by weighing our dollar, which was a feather lighter than three
of their little square coins—the kana-its-evoo. The effect of this
rating was to make our dollar equal to 4,800 cash—their _its-evoo_
being estimated at 1,600 cash. This was scarcely just when it was
recollected that in China our dollar was only taken for 1,200, or at
most, 1,600 cash.

The wind blowing very fresh, these officers remained on board some
time, when they were entertained in the cabin, and shown over the ship.
When they came off they brought with them a present consisting of dried
fish, placed on a lacquered tray, and a quantity of sweet potatoes
contained in a straw-bag.

The next day the officers of the squadron visited the shore, landing
at a neat flight of stone steps, which had been set apart by the
authorities for the purpose; no doubt—as things in Japan undergo
slight changes in forty years—the same flight that Golownin descended
from his captivity. Many desirous of getting some of the _curios_
that the place possessed, indicated a most pressing propensity for
purchase, taking the shopkeepers, of a place generally dull, very much
by surprise. On this day there was exposed at the shop-fronts some of
their swords, an article forbidden to be sold out of the country by
Japanese laws; of the purchase of one or two, by some of our officers,
the authorities subsequently made complaint to the commodore, as well
as of other things not very creditable to our reputation. In doing
so, they said: “In general, when upright, cordial propriety marks
intercourse, then peace, good feeling, and harmony, are real between
the parties; but if harshness, violence, and grasping, characterize
it, then hate and distrust, with collision arise, and love will not be
found to bring the hearts of the people together. This is a rule of
heaven, concerning which, no one can have any doubt.”

“In general,” the terms of this communication are rather extreme,
but that “cordial propriety” marked the conduct of some of our
officers—conduct which was not at all calculated to make “our name
great among the heathen”—it would be untrue to say.

On landing I visited the large temple behind and above the town, having
a background of a dense grove of cypress, and very conspicuous from the
water. Its front, as we stepped it off, was eightyseven paces. The
interior exceeded in gilding, and elaborateness of unpainted carving,
anything I had yet seen in Japan. I would have taken it to be a Sintoo
temple, from a female image with an aureola, resembling the images in
catholic churches with the golden halo encircling the head, but in
another corner there was an image of a shaved-head Buddha in wood,
and brilliantly lacquered. Resembling very much some images I saw on
the British war-steamer Rattler, taken at the capture of Rangoon, I
concluded the image must have been brought to this remote point from
India, although religion is a matter upon which all persons visiting
Japan for a limited period as we did, are liable to fall into the
greatest errors.

There are two accounts of the introduction of Buddhism into Japan;
according to Siebold, in 552, Sching-ming-whang, king of Petsi—a
Corean state, then a dependant and ally of Japan—sent to the court of
the _mikado_, a bronze image of the Sakya Buddha, with flags, books,
&c.; and a letter which said, “This doctrine is the best of any.
It reveals what was a riddle and a mystery even to Kung-foo-tse. It
promises us happiness and retribution, immeasurable and boundless; and
finally makes of us an unsurpassable Buddhi. It is, to use a simile, a
treasure containing all that human heart desires; affording all that
is for our good. And this treasure possesses a twofold value, because
it so completely adapts itself to the nature of our soul. Pray or make
vows according to the disposition of your mind, you will want for
nothing. The doctrine came to us from farther India. The king of Petsi
imparts it to the realm of the _mikado_, in order that it may be there
diffused, and that which is written in the book of Buddha be fulfilled.
My doctrine shall spread toward the East.”

This temple may have been one dedicated to _Rioboo-Synsu_
worship—Sintooism blended with Buddhism—and the female image was
that of Tensio-dai-zin. Buddhism is regarded as a kind of safeguard
against expelled and detested Christianity, and the lower order are all
Buddhists.

The Sintoo and Buddhist priests or bonzes, who constitute the clergy of
Japan, are held in very little repute by the people, and this remote
regard seems to be reciprocated by the clericals. Both classes, so far
as I observed, lounge and gossip in their places of worship, attaching
little or no sanctity to it, except it may be, when immediately engaged
in their devotions. On one occasion I noticed a parcel of devotees in
a temple, with a kind of sack surplice about their shoulders, engaged
in their religious exercises, and while thus employed, some shaven-poll
junior priests were very deliberately sweeping the floor-mats in their
faces, as if giving them a practical illustration of throwing dust in
their eyes. In passing from the front of one altar to another they
invariably dropped the priests’ perquisite of copper cash in the
well-locked boxes.

The bonzes of the orders of the blind, who may be seen walking the
streets in their gauze gowns and swinging sashes, appear to be in high
favor with the populace. The history of these orders is eminently
Japaneish. The first is called _Bussatz Sato_. Centuries are nothing
in Japanese chronology, and this was instituted many centuries ago,
by one Senmimar, the junior son of a _mikado_, who was a perfect
Japanese Adonis, in commemoration of his having wept himself blind for
the loss of his princess, whose good looks were equal to his own. The
first order had existed for ages, when the second appeared. Yoritomo,
the first _ziogoon_, of whom I have previously spoken, while leading
the _mikado’s_ troops, defeated the rebel prince Feki, who fell, and
his general Kakekigo captured. He was a general of great renown, and
Yoritomo strove to gain his prisoner’s friendship, by loading him with
kindness, and finally offering him his liberty. The captive Kakekigo
replied: “I can love none but my slain master. I owe you gratitude; but
you caused Prince Feki’s death, and never can I look upon you without
wishing to kill you. My best way to avoid such ingratitude, and to
reconcile my conflicting duties, is never to see you more; and thus
do I insure it.” He tore out his eyes, and presented them to Yoritomo
on a salver. The prince, struck with admiration, released him; and in
retirement Kakekigo founded the second order of the blind, called
after his former master, _Feki-sado_.

The ascent to the _Hakodadi Yama_, a hill rising some fifteen hundred
feet back of the town, I made through fields of black, rich soil, not
yet dry from melting snow, which, a Japanese made sign, had been breast
deep. Wild grape-vines all around were budding out. The view from the
top of this hill was very commanding: across the straits in Niphon, and
on the mountain tops around, you saw “winter lingering,” &c. Below,
long trains of pack-horses loaded with charcoal were continually
traversing the plain; the fishing villages were busy with their seines;
the town showed like a narrow strip of houses, and our ships and the
three hundred junks in the harbor, went but a little way to fill up
the great water space around. Ours were no doubt the first Anglo-Saxon
feet, that ever trod this height. We found a look-out house up there,
where the movement of every ship passing through the straits of Sangar
into the sea of Japan is noted. It was counting the whalers passing
here, and the annual increase of the number bearing the American flag,
that tended to give the Japanese an exalted opinion of the greatness
of our country, though one of the look-outs did not show it in a very
flattering way. He desired the direction of America: I gave it to
him. He then very deliberately drew a large O with the point of his
sword-case on the ground, and said “Nipong;” and then drawing a small
o he said “America;” this was very well when the “Lion played painter,”
but not admiring his geographical scale, I permitted his “Nipong” chart
to remain, and drew one for “America” many times larger, whereat he
took no more interest in the comparison.

On descending from the Yama, I spied an open gate leading into a
prison-yard enclosed by walls and stockade. The objections by the
attendant and the police to our entrance were strong, as those we
had first experienced in Simoda. They drew their finger across their
throats and held up their right thumb to show the penalty they might
undergo from the chief man, in not hindering our movements. But we had
seen enough of them not to be deterred by any such flimsiness. We knew
that, if we wished to sneeze in their territory, that they would shake
their head, hold up the chief-man finger, and say “Ni! ni!” On one
occasion two companions and myself had approached a small building with
a sliding door, to see whether it did not contain a cage. The officers
attempted to impede our progress, but on our getting close to it, they
looked horrified and shuddered; two of the party, who were smoking,
supposing that it was a powder-magazine, immediately threw away their
cigars. On sliding aside the door, there was visible an old mat in a
small vacant room. We made up our mind, in our movements to do only
what we ourselves would deem proper in our own country, and so went
ahead.

In the town there are fire-proof magazines, built at intervals by the
government, for the storage of articles, and for the protection of
things during a fire.

There are no forts in the vicinity of Hakodadi, unless a small
excavated one with two direct embrasures may be so called. This
place was without any garrison; you descended into it by an inclined
plane made with fascines. In its rear was a very well-constructed
magazine made with gabions, and covered with earth-works. The sides
were supported with stockade and fascine. The merlon was sustained by
flanking so clumsy that the range of the deep embrasures was quite
small. Its object must have been to bring ships to, but the reduced
size of the guns as shown by the houses built over them—if there were
any guns underneath—each crack being carefully stopped—would do
little damage.

Not far from here are some wayside praying machines, and a cemetery in
which several of the poor fellows of the “Vandalia” were interred. On
the occasion of their burial by their messmates, preceded by drum and
fife, the streets were lined on either side by the Japanese police, who
kept every avenue clear.

The Japanese had a bazar arranged at the place at which we landed,
where a number of purchases were made by the squadron, and the
officials saw more silver dollars than during their whole previous
lifetime.

There are supposed to be twenty thousand hairy kuriles on the island of
Yeso, though we did not see any of them, there being none in Hakodadi
during our stay. The officers of the Southampton, which vessel was sent
around to Volcano bay to make a reconnoissance, enjoyed the opportunity
of taking a look at the Orsons or Esaus.

On the last day of May, after we had entertained the Japanese
authorities aboard with the pleasant attitudinizing of “Jim Brown,” and
songs Ethiopan, the Macedonian left for Simoda, taking a look at the
Japanese penal island of Fatisisio on the way, if the weather would
permit, and the Vandalia was sent to Shanghae, China, by the way of
the Japan sea, to relieve the Plymouth, that had been looking after
American interests during the rebel-fights at that place.

The long-expected functionaries from Yedo did not reach Hakodadi until
the 1st of June. The distance they had to come, including the passage
across the straits, in a direct line, was about four hundred miles, and
yet they had been fifty days in making the journey. The next day after
their arrival it was in contemplation to have a military _function_
with sailors, music, marines, and artillery ashore, but continued rain
prevented it.

The Russians, who hitherto had no port on the eastern side of their
empire contiguous to north China, had been compelled to carry on their
teatrade by inland caravans that had been stopped by the insurgent
fights, and who could only send supplies to their posts of Sitka and
Petropaulofski, near the Ochotsk sea, by Cape Horn, had, under Count
Muravieff, boldly seized on the mouth and fine harbor of the river
Amoor, in the Tartar territory, and fortified it. As the position was
weakened by the river emptying into the channel of Tartary, Muravieff,
to make assurance doubly sure, had seized that too.

Intelligence of these doings having reached Yedo, one of the deputies
at Hakodadi, Hirayama Kenziro, was on his way to Saghalien to find out
whether the Russians were not coming the filibuster Chowstoff on them
again.

These functionaries made some of their characteristic communications to
the commodore:—

 In the paper, sent his Excellency this morning, it was stated, that we
 had received orders from Yedo to go to Karafto; that on the road we
 heard, that your ships were at Hakodadi, and as the consultations at
 Yokohama were not fully known on these distant frontier places, there
 might some misunderstandings arise, and so we came here especially to
 see you. If there are any points connected with the treaty, which need
 deliberation and settlement, we desire that you will let us know them.

       *       *       *       *       *

 With regard to going through the streets and seeing shops and houses
 shut, with neither women nor children in their ways, let it be here
 observed, that at Yokohama this very matter was plainly spoken of by
 Moriyama, the interpreter at that place. The customs of our country
 are unlike yours, and the people have been unused to see persons from
 foreign lands; though the authorities did what they could to pacify
 them, and teach them better, they still were disinclined to believe,
 and many absconded or hid themselves.

 If the commodore will recall to mind, the day, when he took a ramble
 at Yokohama, in which some of us accompanied him, he will recollect,
 that in the villages and houses we hardly saw a woman, during the
 whole walk. If he saw more of them at Simoda as he went about, it was
 because there the people were gradually accustomed to the Americans,
 and their fears had been allayed, so that they felt no dread.

 On these remote frontiers, many hundred miles from Yedo, the usages
 of the people are so fixed, that they are not easily influenced and
 altered; but pray, how can the inhabitants here think of regarding
 the Americans with inimical feelings? Even when they see their
 officers, with the sight of whom they are not familiar, they also run
 aside, and as if for fear, they seek to escape us. It is the custom
 of our country, that officers should accompany visiters about; a
 custom not to be so soon changed. Still the disposition of the men
 here, is ingenuous, brave, upright, and good; and that of the women
 retiring and modest—not gazing at men as if without bashfulness. Such
 characteristics and such usages must be considered as estimable, and
 we think that you also would not dislike them.

There is a spring near the town, the water of which is strongly
impregnated with sulphur, and supposed to be highly medicinal; but what
of thy various supplies, O Hakodadi! An egg, like Cæsar’s wife, should
be above suspicion. The number gotten by our mess, like the swords
of the clan of Lochiel, was “a thousand;”—the good ones, were “one.”
Hakodadi, in Japanese, is “box-eating house;” in American memory it is
questionable eggs.

On the 3d of June, the Powhatan and the Mississippi started on their
return to Simoda: we looked upon the departure from Hakodadi as the
culminating point of the cruise. When we reached the entrance to the
harbor, a sudden and dense fog settled on us—

    “The mist-like banners clasp’d the air,
    As clouds with clouds embrace.”

We ran a little distance, whistling for the want of sight, but at the
fog signal of one gun from the flag-ship, came to anchor. In an hour
the fog lifted like a blanket, and opened like a funnel, when both
steamers, with a stiff wind that enabled them also to make sail, ran
out of the straits.




CHAPTER XIV.


After a monotonous run of four days, _Foogee_, like a colossal cenotaph
to dead beauty, showed far up before us, and in three hours we were
again at anchor in Simoda harbor. We learned, that the commissioners
of the treaty were there awaiting the return of the commodore; that
Simoda by imperial edict had been declared an imperial city; that
Mimasaka-no-kami, prince of Mimasaka, had been appointed first, and
Tsusuki Suruga-no-kami, prince of Suruga, had been appointed second
governor of the place; also that the last-named, and Takeiro Utsi
Seitaro, imperial financier and member of the board of revenue, had
been added to the number of commissioners.

Conferences with those functionaries were held in the temple ashore,
and the following articles as additional to those of the treaty of the
31st of March were agreed to:—

 _Additional regulations, agreed to between Commodore Matthew C.
 Perry, special envoy to Japan from the United States of America, and
 Hayashi Daigaku-no-kami; Ido, Prince of T’sus-sima; Izawa, Prince of
 Mimasaki; Tsudzuki, Prince of Suruga; Udono, member of the board of
 revenue; Take-no-uchi Sheitaro, and Matsusaki Michitaro, commissioners
 of the Emperor of Japan, on behalf of their respective governments._

 ARTICLE I.—The imperial governors of Simoda will place watch
 stations wherever they deem best, to designate the limits of their
 jurisdiction; but Americans are at liberty to go through them,
 unrestricted, within the limits of seven Japanese ri, or miles; and
 those who are found transgressing Japanese laws may be apprehended by
 the police and taken on board their ships.

 ARTICLE II.—Three landing places shall be constructed for the boats
 of merchant-ships and whale-ships resorting to this port; one at
 Simoda, one at Kakizaki, and the third at the brook lying southeast
 of Centre Island. The citizens of the United States will, of course,
 treat the Japanese officers with proper respect.

 ARTICLE III.—Americans, when on shore, are not allowed access to
 military establishments or private houses without leave; but they can
 enter shops and visit temples as they please.

 ARTICLE IV.—Two temples, the Rioshen at Simoda, and the Yokushen at
 Kakizaki, are assigned as resting-places for persons in their walks,
 until public houses and inns are erected for their convenience.

 ARTICLE V.—Near the Temple Yokushen, at Kakizaki, a burial-ground has
 been set apart for Americans, where their graves and tombs shall not
 be molested.

 ARTICLE VI.—It is stipulated in the treaty of Kanagawa, that coal
 will be furnished at Hakodadi; but as it is very difficult for the
 Japanese to supply it at that port, Commodore Perry promises to
 mention this to his government, in order that the Japanese government
 may be relieved from the obligation of making that port a coal depot.

 ARTICLE VII.—It is agreed that henceforth the Chinese language
 shall not be employed in official communications between the two
 governments, except when there is no Dutch interpreter.

 ARTICLE VIII.—A harbor-master and three skilful pilots have been
 appointed for the port of Simoda.

 ARTICLE IX.—Whenever goods are selected in the shops, they shall be
 marked with the name of the purchaser and the price agreed upon, and
 then be sent to the Goyoshi, or government office, where the money is
 to be paid to Japanese officers, and the articles delivered by them.

 ARTICLE X.—The shooting of birds and animals is generally forbidden
 in Japan, and this law is therefore to be observed by all Americans.

 ARTICLE XI.—It is hereby agreed that five Japanese ri, or miles,
 be the limit allowed to Americans at Hakodadi, and the requirements
 contained in Article I. of these regulations, are hereby made also
 applicable to that port within that distance.

 ARTICLE XII.—His Majesty the Emperor of Japan is at liberty to
 appoint whoever he pleases to receive the ratification of the treaty
 of Kanagawa, and give an acknowledgment on his part.

 It is agreed that nothing herein contained shall in any way affect
 or modify the stipulations of the treaty of Kanagawa, should that be
 found to be contrary to these regulations.

 In witness whereof, copies of these additional regulations have
 been signed and sealed in the English and Japanese languages by the
 respective parties, and a certified translation in the Dutch language,
 and exchanged by the commissioners of the United States and Japan.

 SIMODA, JAPAN, June 17, 1854.

                                                 M. C. PERRY,
          _Commander-in-Chief of the U. S. Naval Forces, East India,
               China, and Japan Seas, and Special Envoy to Japan_.

The question of port regulations and pilotage was also mooted and a
paper prepared and agreed to certifying:—

 That Yohatsi, Hikoyemon, and Dshirobe, had been appointed Pilots for
 American vessels entering or departing from the port of Simoda, and,

 That the following rates for pilotage had been established by the
 proper authorities, viz.:—

  For vessels drawing over eighteen American feet                 $15 00
  For vessels drawing over thirteen and less than eighteen feet   $10 00
  For vessels drawing under thirteen feet                          $5 00

 These rates shall be paid in gold or silver coin, or its equivalent in
 goods; and the same shall be paid for piloting vessels out, as well as
 into port.

 When vessels anchor in the outer roads and do not enter the inner
 harbor, only half the above rates of compensation shall be paid to the
 pilots.

As the Japanese in all their interviews, and in their last
stipulations, had manifested a preference for articles of compact to be
in the Dutch language for a mutually clear understanding, rather than
in their own, or the Chinese, the above was also prepared in Dutch by
the consent of the American _opperbevelhebber_:—

 Dit dient on te verklaren, dat Yohatsi, Hikoyemon, en Dsirobe benoemd
 zyn als loodsen voor schepenvan de Vereenigde Staten de haven van
 Simoda binnenkomende, of uitgaande; en dat het loon voor de loodsen
 door de bevoegde overheid is vastgesteld geworden als volgt:

  Voor schepen over 18 Amerikaansche voeten diep in het
    water                                                    $15 00
  Voor schepen over 13 en minder dan 18 voeten diep          $10 00
  Voor schepen under 13 Am: voeten diep                       $5 00

 Dit loon zal betaald worden in gouden of zilveren munt of met eene
 gelyke waarde in goederen; en hetzelfde zal betaald worden voor het
 binnen komen als wel als voor het uitgaan.


 Als schepen in den buitenhaven ankeren er niet naar binnen gaan, zal
 alleen de helft van de hierboven vastgestelde loonen worden betaald.

                    _Op last van den Opperbevelhebber_,
                                                 SILAS BENT,
                                            _Liutenant Adjudant_.
 _Goedgekeurd_

                                                 M. C. PERRY,
       _Opperbevelhebber van de Oorlogsmagt van de Vereenigde Staten
             in de zeeen van Oost Indie, China, en Japan_.

          _Eene ware vertaling_,
                            A. L. C. PORTMAN.

  V. S. Stoom Fregat Mississippi,
    Simoda, Japan den 22sten Juny, 1854.

It may be that the veneration, in which the memory of Iyeyas, is
held by the Japanese, had much to do with the making of the treaty.
Notwithstanding this Iyeyas, charged with the guardianship of the son
of Taico, who was the husband of his granddaughter, usurped his powers
and seized the ziogoonship for himself, still, barring his perfidy, he
may be considered the great Lycurgus of Japan. His laws and influence
endured longer than those of the ruler of Sparta. During his usurpation
he took the names of Daifusama and Ongonchio, and with the honors that
wait on success, about which it boots nothing to inquire,—at his death
he was _deified_ by impotent ziogoonship. Such was the reverence, in
which Iyeyas was and still is held, with a people, in whose annals, a
century is spoken of as yesterday, that his will was not only law, but
any wish, that he was known to have expressed, became sacred. He
it was who first granted the privilege of intercourse with the Dutch:
and that nation, instead of submitting to acts which would cause any
cheeks to tingle, but those of great moral obliquity or meerschaum
stupidity—instead of submitting to the durance vile of Dezima, and
trampling upon the symbol of a Savior’s sufferings—had it in their
power to exact anything, by expressing a wish or determination to leave
their fan-shaped prison factory: but they are old fogies, and their
course shows, that to stupidity they add stultification.

[Illustration:  _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._
  DEZIMA.]

The contempt for mercantile pursuits, and the revenue derived
therefrom, ascribed by the Dutch writers, to the “Japonicadom” of
Japan, is all leather and prunella. The exchequer of the princes at
times, is exceedingly limited and they are willing at such times to get
funds and a wife, by taking the daughter of some wealthy merchant as
_one_ of their better halves. The _quid pro quo_ to the father, for the
dimes, that the patrician son-in-law may take from his coffers, is the
privilege of wearing his coat-of-arms on the sleeve of his garments.

But I have wandered from Iyeyas. This apotheosized usurper, enjoined
upon his people to have nothing to do with Europeans, and our country
not being known at the time of this injunction, and of course not
included in such a designation, the hermetics may have thought, they
could make a mere treaty of amity (and not of commerce, as has been
stated), without mental reservation, with the United States. Then,
too, the Japanese have an intelligent and excessive curiosity upon
all subjects of information, and they contend, that inventions and
discoveries are made now in such quick succession, that no nation may
keep pace with them, that has not access to the world.

While it must remain on record, that as the Americans were the first
to deny one cent of tribute, and put an end to Tripolitan piracy, they
were also the first to break down the unsocial barrier, which the
“kingdom of the virgin of the sun” had hedged itself with, yet the
Japanese have now declared their purpose to make treaties, with all
nations similar to the one made with the United States, and they have
since done so with the English through Sir James Sterling, though his
compact is not as good as that of the Americans—the statements of the
London press to the contrary, because it contains no clause at once
granting to them any privilege, which any other nation may obtain from
the Japanese.

The Japanese were much concerned about the siege of Silistria, and
knowing the vulnerability of their country, Russia from her proximity
to them, is the great bug-bear. They were told by the English at
Nangasaki, that the French were also coming up there, and knowing
that these two nations, and that of Chowstoff were at war, they were
much concerned for fear, these enemies should meet and have a fight
in their waters, and for the purpose of preserving and securing the
inviolability and neutrality of their country effectually, they make
treaties with all the parties, _maugre_ the injunction of the great
Iyeyas, and their declarations to us of a few months before.

The Japanese were to have had a bazar opened at Simoda on our return
from Hakodadi, when our officers might procure the _curios_ of Japanese
lacquer, porcelain, crape, &c., but they were quite dilatory in getting
it ready, and urged as the cause, the non-arrival of some junks from
Osacca (pronounced like the city of Oaxaca in “Maheco,” or Mexico),
the seaport of Meaco. In the meantime, at the temple Leosenthsi, daily
conferences were held between some financial officers from Yedo, the
first lieutenant-governor, Kewakawa Kahei, and second lieutenant
governor, Isa Sintshiro, first and second presidents of the board of
revenue, on the part of the Japanese, and Pursers William Speiden of
the Mississippi, and J. C. Eldridge of the Powhatan, on the part of the
United States, to settle the very important question of the relative
value of the coins and currency of the two countries. The result was
anything but satisfactory.

The Japanese commenced by stating that the _tael_ was their decimal
basis, in their system of weights and measures. As one of our cents was
ten mills, so one of their _taels_ is ten _mace_. Next to the _tael_
comes the _canderine_, then the _cash_. But this is as to _weights_.
Their monetary system, while adopting the same nomenclature, is very
different. The coin denominated a _tael_ with them is equal to 1,000
cash; a _tael weight_ of silver, is equal to two _taels_, and five
canderines, of currency; or 2.25 tael coin, or 2,250 cash. A tael
_weight_ of gold is equal to 19 _taels_, or 19,000 _cash_.

They had no means of assaying the American, Mexican, and Spanish
dollar, but presuming them all to be of good silver, they proceeded to
determine the relative value with their coins by _weight_; a silver
dollar was found to be, by this standard, 7.12 mace—equivalent to a
little over 1,600 _cash_. Our twenty dollar goldpiece was of 8.8 mace
weight, and estimating the mace weight of gold at 1,900 _cash_, the
piece was deemed by them equal in value to 16,720 _cash_, or $10.45 of
our money. This made the gold dollar worth fifty-two cents; and silver
to bear the proportion to gold of 1 to 8.44.

But little is known of the metaliferous history of Japan, further than
its territory, in many places, is very auriferous, and that the mining
of gold is an imperial monopoly. The Japanese founded their valuation
by the price of bullion as regulated by their law or imperial decree,
being assured that as long as Japan was excluded from all social
and commercial intercourse with other nations, and formed a little
world of its own, that a system of this kind might be carried on,
without prejudice to the rights of any; the Japanese government by
putting a fictitious value on their coin, or adopting the system of
seignorage, no doubt did so to take away the motive and inducement for
the exportation of their specie for purposes of profit. Their great
philosopher, _Arai Trikayo-no-kami_, compared the mineral production
of a country to its frame and bones, and the products of the soil to
the flesh of the body, which should always be in due proportion. The
bones, he said, once removed, could not be replaced. In addition to an
adherence to this doctrine, it has been a belief among the Japanese
ever since their intercourse with the Portuguese, who showed particular
avidity for the procurement of their bullion, that it was the policy
of foreigners to drain Japan of this resource, that it might fall an
easier prey to conquest when thus impoverished.

The monetary system of Japan will require such almost radical
alteration, that it forms their objection, and presents the greatest
hinderance to commercial intercourse with others. The non-exportation
of bullion, must render trade a very difficult thing, and would have
the effect, as at Nangasaki with the Dutch and Chinese, of making the
government banker for both parties to a bargain, in buying and selling,
and all payments and receipts to pass through the hands of its officers.

The government of Japan is now one of progress; and they admit their
willingness to make improvements in it; but these improvements
must not be hurried ones, but with due foresight and proper
precaution—slowly and gradually; fearing, to use their simile, that
unaccustomed to light, too much of its glare at one time, would dazzle
and produce blindness.

After the survey of the harbor of Simoda, buoys were placed upon the
rocks discovered, surmounted with poles from which waved little flags
that we had made; and on one side of the entrance to the harbor had
been placed a large sign to indicate the locality of a dangerous rock
that lies in mid-channel of the entrance. The Japanese objected to the
presence of these flags, put there by us, on the grounds that it looked
as if we had taken possession of the place, and on their promising to
keep their places filled with their little customhouse-flag, they were
permitted to remove ours.

They furnished a sample of their coal, which was brought aboard in
hampers. It was from the interior, and mere surface coal, they not
having any knowledge of how it should be mined. They might be able to
furnish it at thirty dollars per ton: it could be landed there from the
United States or England for twenty-five dollars. When they acquire the
knowledge of working their mines, and have the roads to convey it to
the seaboard, it may be different.

Here, as at Hakodadi, after paying for them, stones of the requisite
size were procured for the Washington monument. Two of their long,
sharp, copper-fastened pine-boats, with their peculiar sculls,
ordered to be made previously, being completed, were hoisted on board
of the storeship Southampton to be sent to the United States. Our
band performed in the large temple-yard ashore. The governor of the
place allowed the poorer classes to come within the enclosure, and
the attention and delight with which they listened, and their asking
permission to present the musicians with fruit, showed that they were
both fonder and had more appreciation of pleasant strains than the
stolid Chinaman, who acknowledges no music save his horrible nasal
screech, or stupid tom-tom.

A theatrical performance was given on board which was attended by the
commissioners. The body of the marine, Williams, was brought from
Yokohama in a Japanese boat in charge of some of his messmates, and
re-interred near the poor fellow killed on the Powhatan, in the spot
set apart in the Kakizaki temple ground, for an American cemetery.

On the longest day in the year, the 21st of June, the bazar so long
looked for, was announced ready. The articles were arranged in the
temple Leosenthsi, money changing in a temple being a small thing
with the Japanese. The quantity of articles exposed, were not at all
proportioned to the number who wished to purchase, and there was
much disappointment. The Japanese made the excuse that they had not
sufficient time allowed them for the making of articles. The commodore
first visited the place, and found the articles ticketed with excessive
prices; particularly when seventeen cents per day may be regarded as
the average price of Japanese labor. He intimated to the commissioners
his displeasure at this, but these functionaries, who had no doubt thus
fixed things, very adroitly gave it to be understood that the reduction
of the prices of things at the vendue was a matter rather below their
position. The method in the madness of these official gentry was no
doubt this: there were a number of articles in this bazar similar
to those presented by their government to ours at Yokohama, and by
affixing these high prices they thought to give increased value to the
others, in our eyes.

It was determined to dispose of the articles by lottery, so that all
might procure something. They were principally crapes and silks, and
specimens of porcelain and lacquered ware. The first-named fabrics,
I shrewdly suspect, may not have been of Japanese manufacture, but
probably were sent from Chapoo in China, by the junks to Loo-Choo, and
thence in their own to Japan. The amount of silks and crapes of the
finest texture made in their own country is not very great, and no
doubt entirely consumed by the higher castes. Siebold says, that their
most beautiful silks are woven by high-born criminals, who are confined
upon a small, rocky, unproductive island, deprived of their property,
and obliged to pay for the provisions with which they are supplied by
sea, with the produce of their manual labor; and that the exportation
of these silks is prohibited.

The Japanese porcelain is of the purest, and surpasses in delicacy and
transparency any that France and England can offer. The finest, with
little raised images upon it, it is said, is made of a peculiar clay,
found in the vicinity of Meaco, and which is now nearly exhausted. Out
of little cups made of this ware, the saki is drunk.

The specimens of lacquered ware, consisting of cabinets, bowls, cups,
trays, and despatch boxes, of different hues, were of great beauty, and
put many of us out of conceit with our purchases of similar things of
the Chinese. A most delicate-hued red appeared to be most prized by the
Japanese, but the American taste was for the black and a rich maroon
color.

The process of lacquering is represented as being a slow and tedious
one. The workmen engaged over the lacquer in a boiling state, have
their nostrils protected from its fumes. The varnish is the resinous
product of a shrub called _verosino-ki_, or varnish-plant, and
requires a tedious preparation to fit it for use. The coloring matter
is mixed with it, by a long-continued rubbing on a copper plate;
and the operation of lacquering is as tedious as the preliminaries.
Five different coats, and sometimes more, are put on the article,
suffered to dry, and then finely pummiced, until the lacquer acquires
the requisite softness and brilliancy. Mother-of-pearl shells are
inlaid and subjected to the same polishing process. The lacquering
once thoroughly dry, it is impervious to the action of liquid heat,
and although not a very pleasant idea to us, who are accustomed to the
use of china-ware, the Japanese partake of hot soups and other dishes
from vessels thus made. Boiling water may be poured upon the Japanese
lacquer with impunity.

The tea of Japan has been represented by some writers as being superior
to that of China, but what we saw at the entertainment, was not at all
comparable to that of Cathay. Before the warm water is poured on them,
the leaves have a very coarse appearance, and from the tea when made
there arises not that delightful aroma that salutes the nostrils when
you drink the fine beverage at Acow’s in Canton; indeed, they are no
doubt indebted to China for the finest teas they drink, and perhaps the
finest silks they wear.

One does not observe, in going about in Japan, the propensity for
street-gambling which marks the towns of China—from the juvenile
pig-tail playing with the vendor for the fifth of an orange, upward.
The Japanese appear more elevated than this. When you notice playing it
is generally in the house, and not gaming, but with a board and pieces
resembling our chess. It was difficult to acquire much knowledge of
the contest by overlooking; indeed, the contestants generally desisted
very perversely during our presence. Our fleet-surgeon, Dr. Daniel S.
Green, however, with his taste for chess, and an obstinacy of study
which marks his investigation of every subject which he undertakes,
deciphered the game of the Japanese, and this is the doctor’s account
of it, from the best information he could obtain:—

“The Japanese game of Sho-ho-ye corresponds to our game of chess.
This game is played by two persons, with forty pieces (twenty on
either side), and upon a chequer-board of eighty-one squares-nine on
each side. The board is of one uniform color, though the square might
be colored, as with us, for the sake of convenience. The pieces are
also of one uniform color, as they are used (at pleasure) by either
party, as his own, after being captured from the adversary. They are
of various sizes, are long and wedge-shaped, being at the same time
sharpened from side to side, in front, and the name of each piece is
inscribed upon it—both the original and the one assumed upon being
reversed—(as below). Each player distinguishes his men, or pieces by
always having the pointed and thin end forward. But they would be more
readily known if the back parts of all were painted with some decided
and striking color, as that part of his own men is seen by each player
only, and if the fronts of all the men were painted of some other
color, as that part of the adversary’s piece is seen by either player
only. They are laid flat upon the board (front forward), and thus their
names are plainly visible. They capture, as in chess, by occupying the
places of the captured pieces. The king, Oho-shio, being the chief
piece, can not remain in check—and when check-mated the game is lost.

“The pieces are named, and are placed upon the board as follows:—

“Oho-shio (king)—centre square, first row.

“Kin-shio (gold), or chief counseller—upon first row, and on either
side of Oho-shio.

“Gin-shio (silver, or sub-counseller)—upon first row, and one on each
square next outside Kin-shio.

“Kiema (flying-horse)—upon first row, and one on each square next
outside Gin-shio.

“Kioshia (fragrant chariot)—one upon each corner square, first row.

“Hishia (flying chariot)—on second square, second row, right side of
the board.

“Kakuko (the horn)—on second square, second row, left side of the
board.

“Ho-hei (the soldiery)—on all the nine squares of the third row.

“The moves and powers of the pieces are as below, only noting that in
capturing there is no deviation from them, as with us in the case of
pawns.

“_Oho-shio_ moves and takes on one square in any direction.

“_Kin-shio_ as the Oho-shio, except that he can not move diagonally
backward.

“Neither of the above are ever reversed or acquire different powers;
but all the pieces below may be reversed (at the option of the player)
when they move _to_ and _from_ any square in any of the adversary’s
first three rows, and they do thereby acquire different powers, as well
as different names.

“_Gin-shio_ moves and takes as the _Oho-shio_, except that he can
not move directly to either side, or directly backward. When he is
reversed, or turned over, he becomes a _Gin-Nari-Kin_, and acquires all
the powers (and those alone) of the _Kin-shio_.

“_Kiema_ has the move of our knight, except that he is strictly
confined to two squares forward and one laterally, and can in no
case make more than four moves. When he is reversed he becomes a
_Kiema-Nari-Kin_, with all the powers (and those alone) of the
_Kin-shio_.

“_Kioshia_ moves directly forward _only_, but that may be any number of
steps. He may be reversed up on either of the first three rows of the
adversary, and then becomes a _Kioshia-Nari-Kin_, with all the powers
(and those alone) of the _Kin-shio_.

“_Hishia_ has the entire power of our castle, and when he is reversed
he assumes the name of _Rioho_ (the dragon), and acquires, in addition
to his former moves, all those of the _Oho-shio_.

“_Kakuko_ has the entire powers of our bishop, and when reversed,
assumes the-name of _Riome_ (the dragoness), and acquires, in addition
to his former moves, all those of the _Oho-shio_.

“_Ho_ moves forward one step only at a time, and may be reversed upon
either of the first three rows of the adversary; when so reversed, he
becomes a _Ho-Nari-Kin_, and acquires all the powers of the _Kin-shio_.

“Besides the preceding moves and powers, any piece which has been
captured may be replaced upon the board, at the discretion of the
player—as follows, viz.: when it is his move, instead of moving one
of his men he can replace any one of the captured pieces upon any
unoccupied square whatever, observing to keep that side up which it was
entitled to originally; but it may be reversed at any move thereafter
if _to_ or _from_ any square in the before-mentioned first three rows
of the adversary—and observing, further, that he can not replace a
_Ho_ (or pawn) on any column upon which there is already one of his
own, i.e., he can not double a _Ho_ (or pawn).

“It may be further stated, that no piece can pass over the head of any
other piece in its move, except the _Kiema_.”

Preparations were made for taking what was then thought to be our final
departure from the Japanese empire. The commodore had transferred
his flag from the Powhatan to the Mississippi, like Byron, _not
precisely_ because he ever could write an address to the ocean, upon
whose bosom his stereotyped speeches say he has wasted the dearest
action of “some forty years of _my_ life,” but because Byron had a
weakness at Pisa for some mastiffs, cats, pea-fowls, &c.; and when
the American opperbevelhebber again had his broad pennant floating
over the Mississippi, her decks were ornamented with Tray, Blanche,
and Sweetheart, in the shape of Japanese dogs, presented him, with
pug-nosed, billiard-balled heads, and eyes so projecting and divided,
that some unfortunate estrangement seemed to have taken place between
them. The poop-deck was ornamented with no-tailed Japanese cats, or
their spinal columns extending to the point which would have pleased
Lord Monboddo, while under the break of the poop, in cages, swung
beautiful pheasants, mandarin ducks, and some graceful singing-birds.

Agreeably to instructions from the government to make inquiries as to
some of our unfortunate countrymen who were supposed either to have
been lost at sea, or to be held in captivity on the island of Formosa,
it was ordered that the Macedonian should be sent to the harbor of
Keelong for that purpose, accompanied by the Supply; also to ascertain
the probability of the procurement of coal in that vicinity, and its
proximity to the seashore. This done, the Macedonian was to proceed to
Manilla, to leave there the three “Sally Baboo” men picked up by the
“Southampton” at sea, with the American consul, that they might be
sent back to their native land, which, by the chart, was not very far
distant from Luzon.

On the 23d of June the Mississippi was gotten under way, and ran out to
anchor in what might be waggishly termed the “outer harbor” of Simoda,
a miserable roadstead off which a low rock island can not keep the sea,
where all next day we rolled and wallowed.

On Sunday (we left Japan each time on Sunday) the 25th of June,
signal was made for the ships to weigh anchor. The Powhatan took the
Southampton in tow, and ran out of the port of Simoda. The Macedonian
and Supply endeavored to do the same, but the wind proving baffling,
they did not succeed. A long string of Japanese boats made fast to the
former and tried to tow her out, but were as successful as a June-bug
tied by a thread would be in trying to move the boy who held the other
end, so the noble razee had to let go her anchor to avoid going on
the rocks that encase the narrow entrance of the port of Simoda. The
Supply did the same. The Mississippi, after some delay, and a number
of gyrations, took her departure accompanied by the Powhatan with the
storeship.

During the day, we were running down the westward side of the chain
of naked islands that extend to Loo-Choo. At four o’clock, Foogee
Yama, from his cloudy eyry, was seen like an angel’s wing, and then
withdrawn. Well, good-by, Foogee; admiration continued, is the most
tiresome of things, and one can tire of the brilliancy of Burke, with
his—“Around whose base things may moulder, but upon whose summit
eternity must play.”

On the fourth day of the run, after those charming incidents of
sea-life—sky overhead and water all around—we were abreast of the
island of Oo, which the severe gale encountered in July, 1853, on our
return from our first visit to Japan, prevented an examination of,
that the correctness of a harbor laid down on a French chart, might
be ascertained. The ships laid off for three hours, during which time
Lieutenants Maury and Webb went ashore, taking with them bags of pork
and bread. The people on shore at first appeared quite alarmed at their
approach. Their dress was the same as those of the Loo-Chooans. Some
fowls and potatoes were obtained from them by giving them some pork and
bread in exchange; they refused money. It is supposed that we are the
first Christian people that ever had communication with these people;
rather an absurd supposition, considering the charts and surveys that
have been made in those seas by other nations, before we had either the
opportunity or desire to know anything about them.

The next day, off the Great Loo-Choo island, the Southampton was cast
off, and proceeded to Hong Kong. That afternoon we saw quite a large
ship ahead. She was coming down before the wind with studding-sails
set. It was thought desirable to speak her, having had no mail
intelligence since March, in the bay of Yedo. Our colors were hoisted,
and the commodore directed a forward-gun to be fired, to attract
attention. The stranger, however, without appearing to notice it,
changed his course and then changed it again, declining to raise his
ensign, and keeping his nation to himself. Another gun was fired,
still no colors did he show. By this time the two steamers having
come up with him he lay to, and hoisted English colors. Upon sending
a boat to know what he meant by such conduct, it appeared that he
feared meeting the Russian squadron in that vicinity, and took us for
Russian steamers, and even after seeing the American ensign, thought
it might be designed to entrap him. The captain expressed regret for
the detention he had occasioned, and by newspapers from him we had the
first intelligence of England and France having united in hostilities
for the sultan. The ship was the Great Britain, from Shanghae, with a
valuable cargo of teas and silks, for London. She would have proved a
precious prize for Pontiatine.

The next day we anchored in the roadstead of Napa, Loo-Choo. The first
intelligence from Captain Glasson, of the Lexington, was that a seaman
from his ship had been found in the waters of Junk harbor dead, and
expressed the belief that the man had come to his death by violence.
An investigation of the matter showed that the man had not only been
killed by the natives, but that he deserved to have been killed. The
poor Loo-Chooans being very much frightened about the occurrence,
and the local officers of Napa regarding the offence of the man as a
mortifying disgrace to their country, did not make a true report of the
circumstances to the prince-regent, and that high functionary, upon a
demand being made upon him by the commodore, himself misled, reported
that the man had fallen into the water when drunk and been drowned.
The commodore demanded a full investigation according to their laws,
though satisfied at the time that the man Board had been guilty of
a most heinous offence. From this it appeared that the man had been
first stoned by the crowd and badly wounded, and then fell into the
water and was drowned; after the commission of an offence—to use the
prince-regent’s language—that “All men detest and are angry at, and
would, without thinking, strike and wound the one guilty of it.” The
sentences adjudged by the Loo-Chooan tribunal, were to deprive the
mayor of Napa of his rank, and the deputy-magistrates of their offices,
for having made erroneous reports to the regent; Tokisi, the leader of
the mob who stoned, was banished to Pachung Sang for life, while five
others were banished to Taiping San for eight years.

The severity of this punishment was very great, and it is to be
regretted that during the session of the tribunal that decreed it, the
commodore resorted to the menace of sending marine-officers ashore to
examine their forts, and then took possession, with some marines—the
United States bullying Loo-Choo! as Wise said to Bynum, “bullying a
fly!” The poor prince-regent was frightened nearly out of his senses;
he came off himself to the Mississippi with the poor devil Tokisi, with
a halter about his neck, offering to give him up to American custody,
prostrating himself before the commodore in his cabin—a pitiable
spectacle. He is next addressed by the American “Opperbevelhebber,” in
a communication commencing “Your Highness.”

We ascertained from the master’s-mate who had been left in charge of
the invalids and coal-shed ashore in February, that a few days after
our departure for Japan, the Russian admiral Pontiatine, with the
frigate Diana (since lost by an earthquake at Simoda), a corvette, and
the steamer Vostock, visited Napa roads, staying some days, during
which time he drilled his men ashore, and grazed his cattle. He had
not then certain intelligence of England and France having gone to war
with his country, but notwithstanding his assurance of the proximity of
such a thing, as also of superior English and French naval forces, he
generously assisted the English ship Robena (which had been there to
bring the successor of Dr. Bettelheim) to get off the reef, taking the
while, her cargo of coolies aboard of his own ship.

On Sunday, the Rev. E. H. Moreton, the successor of Dr. Bettelheim, a
pleasant-voiced little preacher, with mild face and cockney aspiration
of the letter _h_, read the English church-service, and delivered a
discourse on board of the Mississippi. He had come with his wife and
child from England to dwell in Napa, as spiritual teacher to a people
who are about as well prepared to receive Christianity, as they were
when his predecessor, six years before, went among them. The men and
officers of the squadron raised an amount of money for him before
leaving.

The next Sunday on board, a sermon, blasphemous in character, was
preached by a missionary, in which the American commodore was likened
to another Jesus Christ, and a parallel deliberately instituted between
our Savior’s mission on earth and Commodore Perry’s mission to Japan.
That functionary sat on the quarter-deck, meanwhile listening to all
this without evincing, so far as any one could perceive, the slightest
displeasure.

The steamers were coaled from shore by Loo-Chooan junks, during our
stay; the gunner of the Mississippi was sent to an island, called
Reef island, in a boat, to see whether it was used as a female penal
settlement as had been stated; and we saw the Japanese junks departing,
bearing away the rice of the island, some to Japan, some to Chapoo in
China, where the sons of the wealthy in Loo-Choo are educated without
cost.

The American opperbevelhebber seems to have had a “would be a nun, and
a wouldn’t be a nun” idea of the _status_ of Loo-Choo: In a letter to
the secretary of the navy, as found in Senate-Document, No. 34 of the
XXXIIID Congress, he first says: “I am constantly obtaining information
confirmatory of the opinion that _Loo-Choo_, Meyaco-Sima, and the
Oho-Sima islands, are all dependencies of Japan.”

On the 18th of June, 1854, he writes: “The opinions expressed in my
despatch, No. 41, _have been confirmed_ by subsequent observations, and
Loo-Choo, it appears, is in a measure an _independent_ sovereignty,
holding only slight allegiance either to Japan or China, but preferring
rather its relationship to the _latter_ empire; that the islands
stretching from Formosa to Kiusiu are all under its sovereignty, and
are in such intercourse with the parent island, Great Loo-Choo, as the
imperfect character of their means of navigation will allow.”

In this despatch “No. 41,” he says—like Cowper’s bird perched upon
the church-steeple, “What says he?” “—— and are moreover told that
Loo-Choo is a royal fief of the empire of Japan, though it is asserted
by some writers, that it owes fealty only to the prince of Satsuma.”

How does this “confirm” the statements contained in the despatch of
18th of June, 1854?

In the Pickwickian Gazette, published in the English colony of Hong
Kong, y’clept “The China Mail,” of the 27th of July, 1854, the
demi-official announcement—of course in accordance with Secretary
Kennedy’s order—says:—

“Having been assured by the commissioners at Yokohama, that Japan
exercised no jurisdiction whatever over Loo-Choo, the commodore
proposed making a treaty with the regent and drew up a sketch of what
he thought it desirable should be established by official sanction:
with some unimportant modifications, this was accepted.”

According to Meylan, who was the Dutch opperhoofd, the president of
the factory at Desima, in his semi-annual audiences with the governor
of Nangasaki, among other things also takes upon himself an obligation
to respect all vessels “belonging to the Loo-Choo islands, they being
subject to Japan.”

The American opperbevelhebber, however, after undergoing this pleasing
state of uncertainty, thought he would “make assurance doubly sure, and
take a bond” of the Loo-Chooans; so the following compact was agreed
to, very much on the part of the effeminate islanders, like the compact
of the poor chicken with the horse in the stable: that if he didn’t
tread on his toes, he wouldn’t tread on his toes:—

 _Compact between the United States and the Kingdom of Loo-Choo.
 Signed at Napa, Great Loo-Choo, the 11th day of July, 1854._

Hereafter, whenever citizens of the United States come to Loo-Choo,
they shall be treated with great courtesy and friendship. Whatever
articles these persons ask for, whether from the officers or people,
which the country can furnish, shall be sold to them; nor shall the
authorities interpose any prohibitory regulations to the people
selling; and whatever either party may wish to buy, shall be exchanged
at reasonable prices.

Whenever ships of the United States shall come into any harbor in
Loo-Choo, they shall be supplied with wood and water at reasonable
prices; but if they wish to get other articles, they shall be
purchasable only at Napa.

If ships of the United States are wrecked on Great Loo-Choo, or on
islands under the jurisdiction of the royal government of Loo-Choo, the
local authorities shall despatch persons to assist in saving life and
property, and preserve what can be brought ashore till the ships of
that nation shall come to take away all that may have been saved; and
the expenses incurred in rescuing these unfortunate persons, shall be
refunded by the nation they belong to.

Whenever persons from ships of the United States come ashore in
Loo-Choo, they shall be at liberty to ramble where they please, without
hinderance, or having officials sent to follow them, or to spy what
they do; but if they violently go into houses, or trifle with women, or
force people to sell them things, or do other such like illegal acts,
they shall be arrested by the local officers, but not maltreated, and
shall be reported to the captain of the ship to which they belong, for
punishment by him.

At Tumai is a burial-ground for the citizens of the United States,
where their graves and tombs shall not be molested.

The government of Loo-Choo shall appoint skilful pilots, who shall be
on the lookout for ships appearing off the island, and if one is seen
coming toward Napa, they shall go out in good boats beyond the reefs
to conduct her into a secure anchorage, for which service the captain
shall pay the pilot, five dollars; and the same for going out of the
harbor beyond the reefs.

Whenever ships anchor at Napa, the local authorities shall furnish them
with wood at the rate of three thousand six hundred copper cash per
thousand catties; and with water at the rate of six hundred copper cash
(forty-three cents) for one thousand catties, or six barrels full, each
containing thirty American gallons.

 Signed in the English and Chinese languages by Commodore MATTHEW C.
 PERRY, Commander-in-chief of the United States Naval Forces in the
 East India, China, and Japan seas, and special envoy to Japan, for
 the United States; and by SHO FU-FING, Superintendent of affairs,
 (Tsu-li-kwan) in Loo-Choo; and BA RIO-SI, Treasurer of Loo-Choo at
 Shui, for the government of Loo-Choo, and copies exchanged this 11th
 day of July, 1854, or the reign HIEN-FUNG, 4th year, 6th moon, 17th
 day, at the Town-Hall of Napa.

On landing to sign this rather singular document, the customary
quantity of “boom-a-laddying” was indulged in, as per following order:—

 One large howitzer from the Mississippi.
 One large howitzer from the Powhatan.
 Twenty-four marines from the Mississippi.
 Twenty-four marines from the Powhatan.
 Band of music from the Mississippi.
 Band of music from the Powhatan.
 Each howitzer to be accompanied by a box of fixed ammunition, and
 their crews armed with cutlasses.
 The marines with muskets and twenty-four rounds of ball-cartridges.
 The seamen to be dressed in white with straw hats.
 The marines in fatigue summer-dress.
 The officers in white pants, frock-coats, swords, epaulettes, and caps.
 The bandsmen in white.
 Two orderlies with their muskets to be detailed as an escort for the
 broad pennant.
 A flag-bearer and two seamen as a guard for the ensign.

Our government should pay a little attention to the fantastic tricks,
which its commodorial gentry cut up in such countries, as Loo-Choo:
“fixed ammunition,” “cutlasses,” and “ball-cartridges,” taken ashore
among a people whose forts are disarmed; among whom not one offensive
weapon was noticed after months of intercourse; and whose nation, in
its present condition, reversing the remark of Chatham, might be driven
with a crutch.

And then too, two orderlies with muskets escorting “_the_ broad
pennant”—a kind of an ark of the covenant carried before, and the
American “ensign” playing second fiddle behind!—just imagine such a
procession? It is equal to the swallow-tailed yellow flag, that I saw
one day carried behind a high functionary, as I passed his procession
coming down from Sheudi.

If a broad pennant means anything, it means this: a piece of bunting to
designate an admiral’s ship or boat in squadron sailing, or in harbor:
a cynosure for all the other vessels, because from the ship that wears
it, orders are signaled and dispositions directed; but when it is
taken from a main-truck, or from the commander-in-chief’s boat, to be
boom-a-laddyed on shore in a procession, it becomes meaningless, if
not ridiculous; a land officer in the field had better fly a distinct
flag over his marquee; and an American commodore, who leaves his ship
to land in an enemy’s or friend’s country, had better be provided
by the navy department with a kind of “white plume,” like that of
“Harry of Navarre,” or “_the_ broad pennant” had better be declared an
_oriflamme_; but all true Americans have a weakness, which runs in
this wise: that the stars and stripes, are oriflamme enough.

But it may be, that the commodore may be allowed to explain—to give
some reason for boom-a-laddying ashore with his broad pennant, and
having a sword-bearer to walk behind with his trusty blade in the
streets of Simoda. In his notes to the secretary of the navy, of his
second visit to Japan he says:—

“I have adopted the two extremes—by an exhibition of great pomp, when
it could be properly displayed, and by avoiding it, when such pomp
would be inconsistent with the spirit of our institutions.”

This pompatic paragraph appears rather a _non sequitur_; unless it can
be shown _when_ an exhibition of great pomp is consistent with the
spirit of our institutions.

The _entente cordiale_ being established with the “kingdom of
Loo-Choo,” presents of agricultural implements and a hand cotton-gin,
were made to the authorities, who returned air-plants and birds. A
stone from the island was also procured for the Washington monument.

The commodore having entertained the regent and the authorities
on board the flag-ship Mississippi with a supper and Ethiopian
performance, the Lexington sailed for Hong Kong on the 15th, and two
days after—the anniversary of our first departure from Japan—we bid
good-by to the Loo-Chooans, as much, no doubt, to their delight as our
own.

In getting off the Amakarimas, the Powhatan parted company with us,
bound for Amoy and Ningpo, and in four days we had a Chinese pilot on
board, and the next dropped anchor in the harbor of Hong Kong, China,
from whose mail facilities we had been absent over half a year.




CHAPTER XV.


Letters: considering the rapid occurrence of events of moment
now-a-days, and the lightning transmission of intelligence, it was with
joy we got letters on our arrival at Hong Kong, having been for over
half a year, so far as news was concerned, inhumed in a remote country.
The official news was, that we were ordered home by way of California
and South America, at which all were overjoyed; and the commodore
was granted permission to return to the United States _via_ Europe,
at government expense. Many a poor fellow got letters that had been
waiting for him in Hong Kong a long time, and at the same time letters
from others of later date, that told that the writers of the former
ones could never write again.

We found in the harbor the ships of the surveying squadron under
Commodore Ringgold, among which was the since ill-fated Porpoise.

There had been no improvement in the intestine troubles. An American
captain had been murdered by the Chinese; and the dearly-beloved
occupants of the hongs of Canton, feeling insecure in the possession
of their “filthy lucre”—for if the “chop dollar” of China is not
filthy lucre, I know not what it is—the Mississippi proceeded to her
old anchorage at Whampoa, and sent men and howitzers, as before, up to
the city. The captain of the American ship Amity, having been murdered
by two of his foreign crew, the next morning after our arrival through
the intervention of “Judge Lynch,” their bodies were seen suspended
from either yard-arm of their vessel.

The state of affairs in Canton being deemed imminent, the little
jolly-boat English steamer, called the Queen, which the commodore had
hired and left off the hongs, previous to our leaving for Japan in
January, ran down and took up another force to the city. A body of
rebels had captured the wealthy and populous city Fuhshan, about twenty
miles from Canton, and the mandarins were doing nothing to arrest their
progress. One morning, for this purpose, a detachment of a thousand
men under a brigadier, were quietly taking up their ground, when they
were surprised by a party of rebels, and before they could seize their
arms, some hundreds of them and their camp-followers were killed, and
the rest escaped pell-mell into the city. The tents, matchlocks, and
ammunition, were all carried off, and the brigadier was among the
missing.

I had an opportunity during this visit of seeing the largest fleet of
the emperor, which had an immense number of streamers flying: and also
at an early hour of making a visit to the tea-packing establishments
at Honan, whose inmates appeared ready to decamp at short notice.

Vessels going down the Pekiang were crowded with Chinese flying from
the place, and the river steamers were chartered at enormous rates;
so that the total emigration to Macao and Hong Kong was not much
under five thousand, including several men of distinction, such as
the brothers of Heu Chang-kwang, the provincial treasurer, and their
families, and of Puntingqua and his family, to Macao; and Howqua and
Eesing with their families to Hong Kong.

On the 29th of July we were at Hong Kong, and the 11th of August
saw us again at Whampoa, together with that noble steam-frigate the
Susquehanna, that had not long been back from a very interesting trip
to Nanking.

On the 15th of August, when taking our final departure from Whampoa,
we saw a Dutch ship fired upon from a rebel battery; also one of the
mandarin boats, running up powder, but the fleetness of their sailing,
and the bad gunnery of the Chinese, enabled them to go by unharmed.

Having to wait the return of the Macedonian with Captain Abbott, to
whom the command of the three remaining ships was to be transferred,
the commodore fixed September 11th for the day of his departure by the
oriental steamer. In the meantime the Susquehanna, which with the
Mississippi, was to make the long stretch across the Pacific, departed
for Simoda, Japan—on her first and only visit to that place—towing
the Southampton, laden with coal, intended for the use of the two
steamers in their run from Japan of over three thousand miles to
Honolulu. The storeships Supply and Lexington were also despatched
homeward by the way of the Cape of Good Hope. It is scarcely necessary
to give the state of affairs in China at the time of the departure
of these ships. The fighting of the Chinese—if fighting it might
be called—continued, and we had reports one day how the city of
_Sling-Gin_ had been captured by the insurgents, and another day, that
the imperialists still held the city of _Gin-Sling_.

The Chinese government insists upon its officers, saying, when required
to perform anything for it, what the Frenchman told the lady: “Madam,
if _possible_, it is done already; if _impossible_, it shall be
done”—though placing no means at their disposal for accomplishing the
desired result.

The following being so very Chinese, I insert it. _T’sing-ling_ nor
_Tae-yung_ could not prevent the capture of _Woo-chang_. On reading
the report of its downfall, the emperor said: “It is impossible
to repress my grief and indignation. That Tae-yung, though charged
with two provinces, seems not to have had a single plan for their
defence. Formerly we deprived him of official rank, with the hope
that he would exert himself and make amends for previous errors; but
lo! he follows his old habits, and has thus brought disaster on a
large portion of the empire; this is most detestable and abominable.
Let Tae-yung be instantly deprived of office, and handed over to the
direction of Yang-pae. We also order Yang-pae to hasten to his new
appointment, and place himself at the head of all the troops in those
provinces, in order immediately to exterminate these rebels, and
recover the provincial capital out of their hands; afterward let him
sweep away this pestilence, in order to fulfil the object for which we
have intrusted him with this great command. Let him also endeavor to
ascertain what has become of all the officers both civil and military
who were formerly stationed at Woo-chang, and report. Respect this.”

But the Macedonian having gotten back from Manilla, the time had
arrived when Opperbevelhebber Perry was to leave in the mail-steamer.
This interesting event took place on the 11th of September, one day
after the date of the great naval-battle of his Hyperion brother on
Lake Erie, and one before the battle of North Point, and three before
the allied armies landed in the Crimea. Previous to this important
epoch, the _American_ (_!_) merchants at Canton addressed him an
epistle as characteristic as the speech of the

    “—— men of Coventry,
    Who came down to see
    Her gracious majesty!”

This _bijou_ of toadyism had this for a superscription:—

  His Excellency Commodore MATTHEW C. PERRY,
  _Commander-in-Chief of the Naval Forces U. S., in the East India,
  China, and Japan Seas, and late Envoy to Japan, &c., &c., &c._

They first acknowledged the promptitude with which he extended
protection to their interests, so much needed, during his command in
those seas.

“Protection.” Commodore Perry arrived in the waters in the vicinity of
Canton, on the 7th of April, 1853, and on the 27th of the same month
he ran up to Shanghae, and after a short stay there, he bundled off
with all the ships he could to the island of Loo-Choo, where he lay
inert from the 26th of May to the 2d day of July; and did not return to
China until August. The gentlemen who much do congregate on the rialto
of Canton, address “His Excellency,” concerning the magnitude of the
interests, which requires protection, and the storeship Supply, like
the other ships, not being required until the next visit to Japan, she
is sent up to lay off the hongs. This tub to the mercantile whale,
satisfied for a time, but when the period arrived for the return to
Japan, luckily for “His Excellency,” the merchants suggested the
charter of a miserable little English steamer, and he not regarding
it his duty to inform the opium gentry, that the carronades of the
Supply would afford more protection than the penny-whistle battery of
the jolly-boat steamer, gladly withdrew the needed storeship, and
chartered the Queen. The puny craft when started in Hong Kong harbor,
was amusing. A Chinaman on one wheel-house with a bamboo-pole, prized
the wheel over the “centre,” and four or five men being required at her
“starting-bar,” when they got her going they did not like to stop her,
and she spun about the harbor like a chicken, _minus_ his head. The
arms of her wheels being wood, before getting over to Macao she broke
off several. Her pop-guns, only two of which were aside, had perhaps
never been “scaled,”

    “And like gun well aimed, at duck or plover,
    Bear wide the mark and kick the owner over.”

As Hon. Humphrey Marshall said, in speaking of the protection afforded
by the American opperbevelhebber:—

“What are the means? A British steamer of one hundred and fifty tons,
manned by twenty sailors and ten Chinese, and carrying an armament of
four guns of four-pound calibre each. In the event of a disturbance,
the Queen may suffice to transport the women and children of American
citizens from the city, provided they reach her decks without
molestation; but to defend the lives or property of American citizens
here in the presence of an invading mob or a band of robbers, the
provision made is not equal to any exigency whatever.”

After some vernacular of the shop—he went to Japan with their “best
wishes _freighted_,”—they indulge in wonderful erudition about
Columbus, De Gama, Cook, La Perouse, and Magellan, and they wind up
with the pleasant tangible, of requesting his acceptance of a durable
memorial of his visit to China, as a testimony of the estimation in
which they held his public services and private character.

                              U. S. FLAG-SHIP MISSISSIPPI,
                                   _Hong Kong_, September 7, 1854.

 GENTLEMEN: It is impossible for me to find words sufficiently
 expressive of my profound thanks for the very flattering praise which
 you, in your prodigal kindness and generosity, have bestowed upon me
 in your communication of the 4th instant.

 In the execution of my duties as commander of the East India squadron,
 and with special reference to the mission to Japan, I am unconscious
 of having done more than might have been expected of me as a zealous
 and loyal officer.

 The testimonial of which you speak will be received with the highest
 gratification, and my children will be enjoined to treasure it as
 a memorial of the many favors their father had received from his
 fellow-countrymen in China.

 In separating myself from those with whom I have been so long and so
 agreeably associated, I can not but hope that we shall all meet again
 in our own happy country; and with this pleasant anticipation, I
 subscribe myself, with every feeling of sincere friendship and respect,

                           Your obliged and most obedient servant,
                                                       M. C. PERRY.

The “durable memorial” was understood to be a service of silver, since
made in the United States, and perhaps none the less brilliant because
opium syce may have paid for it; and, as a change must have come over
the commodore’s dream, for on the 9th of October, 1853, he writes
to the secretary of the navy: “The most profitable branch of trade
carried on by many of the Americans, English, and other foreigners, is
of a clandestine character, in violation of the laws of China and the
stipulations of the Cushing treaty; and it is difficult for a naval
commander, in extending the protection of his ship, to distinguish
between the property engaged in the legal or illegal trade.” And in
concluding the same despatch, he says: “In my business with Japan,
where as yet there are no American merchants, or diplomatic agents, I
have the assurance of not being interfered with, and shall be able to
act with energy and promptitude, and without embarrassment, and whether
successful or otherwise, the responsibility will all rest upon myself.”

Then comes an epistle from four little Malwa and Patna “tuft-hunters”
of Hong Kong, who also like to make Judy Fitzsimmons of themselves.
After giving “His Excellency” much that is fulsome and adulatory, they
speak of his having opened the “_commerce_” of Japan, “not only to us,
but to the world.” What nonsense.

We have no _commercial_ treaty with Japan, but only one “of peace and
amity,” and strange that the newspapers will persist in saying so.
Mischief may come of it in inducing some Yankee trader to go there with
an assorted cargo, who will be very apt to have his labor for his pains.

But for the seriousness of speech that marked the presentation to “His
Excellency,” by the governor of Rhode Island, on behalf of its general
assembly, of a splendid salver, having on it “in testimony of their
appreciation of his services to his country in negotiating a treaty
of amity _and commerce_ with Japan,” together with the commodore’s
teaching the heathen _the observance of the Sabbath_, that worthy
functionary would be deemed waggish.

On the morning of the 11th of September, being the ninth day, of the
ninth moon, of the fourth year of the reign of Hien-fung, Commodore
Matthew Calbraith Perry left in the English mail-steamer Ganges for
home; the Mississippi and the Macedonian firing the parting salute, and
the men in the rigging giving three cheers.

We were to have taken our final leave of the grand, celestial, central,
middle, flowery kingdom, on the same day, but it stormed, and we did
not leave until the next morning, and few, if any, saw the naked hills
of Hong Kong fade in the distance with regret. A few hours before us,
the poor Porpoise got under way and left the port—that port to which
her sail

  “Should never stretch again.”

This was the last that was seen of her, and she no doubt foundered in
the typhoon of the 7th of October, encountered by the Mississippi,
which noble old ship struggled and maintained her existence for mortal
hours under the force of a hurricane, and received the terrific blows
of the infuriated sea more bravely than did the black knight under the
pounding of the stalwart friar—if “aught inanimate” can have bravery,
all honor to thee, old ship! and with more fervency than blesses the
bridge that carries us over, honor to thee, old ship, again!

We stood up the Formosa channel, and in nine days were entering
again the harbor of Simoda. We found here the Susquehanna and the
Southampton. The former vessel left for the Sandwich Islands on
the 24th of September. The stormy season having commenced in that
latitude, it was too rough for us to commence coaling for several
days, from the storeship. We ascertained that the Susquehanna had
buried Surgeon Hamilton at Simoda, making the third interment in the
contracted American burial-place. The shafts over the tombs were well
proportioned, the letters of the inscriptions, with the imitative
art of the Mongolian race, cut with exactness, and gilded, and the
cap-stones, an original ornament, seeming to blend an urn and an acorn.

Captain Lee, of the Mississippi, with a suite of officers, made an
official call on the lieutenant-governor of the now imperial city
of Simoda, and was received with marked courtesy, and entertained
in the Japanese style. The little strips resembling fried eel were
as attractive as fried snake, but the crystallized grapes, with
indifferent sugar, were rather palatable. There was handed around
a small berry, not unpleasant to the taste, resembling the haw
cultivated. The old Rip Van Winkle—_Yemanese Koso_—plied his guests
with the little thimbles of imperial saki, that he might unite with
them.

Captain Lee returned these civilities with a collation on board of his
ship, and treated the Japanese to the music of the Mississippi’s fine
band, of which they are unaffectedly fond. He had a correspondence with
the authorities relative to the absence of the spar-buoys which had
been placed to mark dangerous rocks in the harbor. They replied that
they had been washed away by the severe gales preceding our arrival,
but that they would replace them, which they did.

During this visit the Japanese displayed much willingness to trade with
us—that is, if trading means to sell everything you can for Spanish
dollars and takes nothing else in return. There was one instance only
to the contrary. An intelligent engineer of the ship had a revolver;
a Japanese officer wished it very much. He was told that he could
have it for so many _its-evoos_, which the penalty for permitting to
pass out of the country was very great. He offered a large amount in
silver dollars. No; at last his cupidity for the pistol overcame his
fear for the consequences, and he paid for it in the _its-evoos_, and
disappeared over the side. These were about the only Japanese coins
that were procured during our stay in the country. Were you to offer
one of the barbers of the country, “whose name is legion,” a piece of
silver for one of their cash—the twelfth of a cent—he would be glad
to have it, but the inexorable law is ever before his eyes.

At Simoda we found a junk bound to Yedo with a large mortar aboard,
purchased from the Dutch; also the model of an English boat.

We ascertained, that Kyama Yezimon, under the permission of the
emperor, had built a three-masted ship on the model of the Southampton,
they alleging, that she was our fastest sailing ship, or made the
shortest trips. Her trial-trip had given them much satisfaction, up the
bay from Uraga. They painted her red, with black stripes, and called
her the _Ho-o-maro_, meaning “sea-ship.”

Captain Lee distributed among the imperial officers of the place, and
suite, a number of cotton-cloths of various kinds from New England.
They took them, because it was the part of politeness to take them,
rather than because they had any use for them. The upper class would
not use them, the scanty wardrobe of the poorer class does not need
them, unless they could be educated to breeches, nor could they
purchase them. There are times when they can not get enough to eat;
indeed it is said, that there was a famine in the land at the time of
the visit of the Morrison, in 1836. The fact is the Japanese are a
people of few wants, and no luxuries, and the great trade prophesied
with that country, should we ever get a commercial treaty, is a mere
myth and exists in the brain of visionaries alone. I deliberately
believe, that any clipper-ship, that would go there with the hopes of
a profitable venture, would rot at her anchors, before she disposed of
her cargo, or got anything profitable in return.

The Mississippi took her final departure from Japan on the 1st of
October, towing the Southampton as far as Volcanic Oho Sima, where the
ships parted company. _Foogee_ was hid.

       *       *       *       *       *

In February last, Commander H. A. Adams, visited Simoda in the Powhatan
and exchanged the ratification of our treaty with the Japanese, but not
without some delay and difficulty. The Japanese affected to be much
surprised at his early return, and contended, that the treaty said,
that the exchange of ratifications was to be _in_ eighteen months.
Captain Adams contended, that our copy said _within_ eighteen months,
and that we had a right to send it back as soon as we liked. After
some delay in getting the originals from Yedo and examining them, this
matter was settled.

When they were asked for the signature of the emperor to accompany
that of the president, they said that was impossible: that he never
put his name to any document whatever. The captain then resorted to a
little bullying—the thing which had been so successfully practised
upon them by the _opperbevelhebber_—and told them, he would not like
to carry back such an answer to his country—that if we could have
imagined such a thing, our secretary of state only would have signed
the ratification, and not the president. They came down and gave the
signature of the emperor—that is a lot of snakes’ tails, flies’ legs,
and triangles, which for all we know, were but there by Tatsnoski, or
any other functionary.

The appearance of Simoda after the frightful earthquake there in
December, was sad in the extreme. The town was piled in ruins, and
junks had been carried a distance of two miles into neighboring fields.

The Russian admiral Pontiatine was at Simoda, during the terrible
convulsion, and seeing nothing desirable about the port, had been
insisting upon Oassacca, the seaport of the city of Meaco, as one of
the places to be granted his country, but the wrecking of his ship, the
Diana, by the earthquake, left him in no condition to insist upon his
point with force, so he was compelled to consent to Simoda.

The implicit obedience to their laws, under whatever circumstances, by
the Japanese, was shown at the wrecking and sinking of a junk, that
drifted afoul of the Diana and was stove. Two of her crew only clung to
the Diana, the rest stolidly sunk with the junk. Those saved were asked
the cause of this strange conduct on the part of their late comrades.
They said it was, that their laws forbid them going on board of a
foreign vessel; nor did they know what would be done with themselves
for it.

If it be the best government, which governs least, that is not the
government of Japan; like the law of gravitation it is always in
action: its Briarian arms are everywhere, and its subjects are a
community of Arguses. When storm is on the deep and its mariners are
clinging to their long tillers and shuddering at the yawning sea, each
lightning flash of heaven shows them an etiolating hand, that will
crush them, if they dare leave their craft, until half engulfed.

The English and French squadrons visited Nangasaki, and negotiated
their treaty there; though their freedom of movement was greatly
restricted. Their masters were only allowed to land on a small barren
island to rate their chronometers; during the conferences some of their
officers were taken to task by the Japanese for spitting on their
matting.

       *       *       *       *       *

The cruise of the United States steam-frigate Mississippi under the
command of a fine officer and estimable gentleman—Sydney Smith Lee,
during the years 1852, ’53, ’54, and ’55, was one full of interest.
She is the third war-steamer, that ever circumnavigated the globe, and
during her cruise sailed a distance more than twice its circumference.
She visited places, too, unusual.

The writer wishes that the time had been afforded him to give
an outline of the terrible typhoon, which she encountered in
the North Pacific ocean on the 7th of October, 1854—how we saw
_two_ Mondays, or two 16ths of October, come together in the
same week—Honolulu—California—Taboga—stay at Valparaiso—the
brilliant dash of the old ship, with a chasing gale, into the straits
of Magellan: of her subsequent run through them “amid snow and
glacier”—the firing of the “22d of February” salute, which was heard
by the Patagonian—Rio Janeiro, &c., but this would make our narrative
of undue length.




APPENDIX.


SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR NAPA, ISLAND GREAT LOO-CHOO.

BY LIEUTENANT S. BENT, U. S. NAVY.

This is the principal seaport of the island, and perhaps the only one
possessing the privileges of a port of entry.

Its inner, or Junk harbor, has a depth of water of from two to three
fathoms, and though small, is sufficiently large to accommodate with
ease, the fifteen or twenty moderate-sized junks which are usually
found moored in it. These are mostly Japanese, with a few Chinese and
some small coasting craft, which seem to carry on a sluggish trade with
the neighboring islands.

The outer harbor is protected to the eastward and southward by the main
land, while in other directions it is surrounded by merely a chain of
coral reefs, which answer as a tolerable breakwater against a swell
from the northward or westward, but affords of course, no shelter from
the wind. The holding ground is so good, however, that a well-found
ship could ride out here almost any gale in safety.

The clearest approach to Napa from the westward, is by passing to
the northward of the Amakarima islands and sighting Agenhu island,
whence steer a S. E. course for the harbor, passing on either side of
Reef islands, being careful, however, not to approach them too near
on the western and southern sides, as the reefs below water in these
directions, are said to be more extensive than is shown by the charts.

After clearing Reef islands, bring Wood Hill to bear S. S. E., when
stand down for it, until getting upon the line of bearing for _South
channel_. This will carry you well clear of Blossom reef, yet not so
far off but that the White Tomb and clump of trees or bushes to the
southward of Tumai Head can be easily distinguished. An E. N. E. ½  E.,
or E. N. E. course will now take you in clear of all dangers, and give
a good anchorage on or near the seven-fathom bank, about half a mile to
the northward and westward of False Capstan Head. This channel being
perfectly straight, is more desirable for a stranger entering the
harbor, than _Oar channel_, which, though wider, has the disadvantage
of its being necessary for a vessel to alter her course some four or
five points, just when she is in the midst of reefs, which are nearly
all below the surface of the water.


TO ENTER BY OAR CHANNEL.

Bring the centre of the island in Junk harbor (known by the deep
verdure of its vegetation), to fill the gap between the forts at the
entrance of Junk harbor and steer a S. E. ½  E. course, until Capstan
Head bears east, when haul up to E. N. E. and anchor as before directed.


THE NORTH CHANNEL

Is very much contracted by a range of detached rocks making out from
the reef on the west side, and should not under ordinary circumstances
be attempted by a stranger; as at high water the reefs are almost
entirely covered, and it is difficult to judge of your exact position,
unless familiar with the various localities and landmarks. To enter by
this (North) channel, bring a remarkable notch in the southern range
of hills, in line with a small hillock just to the eastward of False
Capstan Head and stand in on this range S. by E. ½  E. until Tumai Head
bears E. ½  N., when open a little to the southward, so as to give the
reef to the eastward a berth, and select your anchorage.

There is a black spar-buoy anchored on Blossom reef _half way between
its eastern and western extremities_, a red spar-buoy on the point
of reef to the W. N. W’d of Abbey point, and a white spar-buoy on
the southeast extremity of Oar reef. Flags of corresponding colors
are attached to all these buoys, and they afford good guides for the
South and Oar channels. There are two large stakes on the reefs to the
eastward and westward of North channel, planted there by the natives,
this being the channel mostly used by junks trading to the northward.

An abundance of water can always be obtained at the fountains in Junk
river, where there is excellent landing for boats. There is a good
spring near the tombs in Tumai bluff, but unless the water is perfectly
smooth the landing is impracticable, and under any circumstances it is
inconvenient from the want of sufficient depth, except at high tide.

It is directed by the commander-in-chief that the vessels of the
squadron under his command, shall heave to, on approaching Napa, and
make signal for a pilot, when an officer familiar with the localities
and landmarks will be sent off from the vessel in port to pilot her in,
or point to her commander the position of the dangers to be avoided.

Should there, however, be no vessel in port, then boats are to be sent
ahead, and anchored upon the extremities of the reefs, between which
the vessel intends to pass.

MACAO, October 1, 1853.

       *       *       *       *       *

NOTE.—The spar-buoys, above described, were securely moored at the
time they were placed in their respective positions, by order of
Commodore Perry, but may be displaced, or entirely removed by the heave
of the sea, or by the natives, and should therefore not be entirely
relied upon.


OONTING, OR PORT MELLVILLE, ISLAND GREAT LOO-CHOO.

BY LIEUTENANT S. BENT, U. S. NAVY.

Oonting harbor is on the N. W. side of Loo-Choo, and distant about
thirty-five miles from Napa.

Sugar Loaf island, an excellent landmark, lies about twelve miles to
the W. N. W’d of the entrance. The island is low and flat, with the
exception of a sharp conical peak near its eastern extremity, which
rises to a height of several hundred feet.

Passing to the northward of Sugar Loaf island, an E. S. easterly course
will bring you to the mouth of the harbor, and to the northward and
westward of Kooi island. It is advisable to heave to here, or anchor
in twenty or twenty-five fathoms water, until boats or buoys can be
placed along the edges of the reefs bordering the channel, for without
some such guides, it is difficult for a vessel of large draft to find
her way in between the reefs, which contract, in places, to within a
cable’s length of each other, and are at all times covered with water.

The ranges and courses for the channel, are first: Hele rock in
range with double-topped mountain bearing south thirty-seven degrees
east. Steer this course, keeping the range on until Chimney rock
bears S. ½  E.; then for Chimney rock, until Point Conde bears south
forty-nine degrees east; then for Point Conde, until entering the
basin of Oonting, when anchor; giving your ship room to swing clear
of the reef making out to the northward of Point Conde, and you will
be as snug as if lying in dock; with good holding ground, completely
land-locked, and sheltered almost entirely from every wind.

Good water is to be had at the village of Oonting.


SAILING DIRECTIONS AND OBSERVATIONS, UPON LLOYD HARBOR, BONIN ISLANDS.

FROM REPORTS OF ACTING MASTERS MADIGAN AND BENNETT, OF THE U. S. SHIPS
SARATOGA AND SUSQUEHANNA.

The entrance to the harbor of Port Lloyd, on the western side of
Peel island, one of the Bonin group, is well defined; so that it can
scarcely be mistaken.

A ship bound in, would do well to place a boat on the shoal, that
makes off south from the eastern point of Square Rock, as it is called
on Beechy’s harbor chart. This shoal can be easily seen from aloft,
however, even when there is no swell on. It extends full two cables
length from Square Rock to the southward, and is steep. The centre
of the shoal is awash with a smooth sea. The tide rises about three
feet, and there is a coral rock about one cable’s length north from
the northern point of Southern Head, on which I found _eight feet
water_. But a ship entering the harbor would not be likely to approach
Southern Head so near as to be upon it. This island, as well as those
surrounding it, is chiefly visited by whale-ships, and its products,
therefore, are such as to suit their wants.

Potatoes, yams, and other vegetables, fruits of various kinds, together
with wild hogs and goats can be procured from the few whites and
Sandwich-islanders—thirty five in all—settled there. Wood is good
and plentiful, and water can be had, though in limited quantities, and
slightly tainted by the coral rocks from which it springs.

The anchorage is fair, though open to the south and west. The
reconnoissance made by order of the commander-in-chief, proved the
accuracy of Captain Beechy’s chart.

Mr. Bennet, acting master of the Susquehanna, says in his report:
“Assuming the position of Napa in Great Loo-Choo island, as established
by Beechy, to be correct, I find by the mean of my chronometers, that
he has placed Ten-Fathom Hole, in Port Lloyd, five miles too far to the
westward, and consequently the whole group is placed that much to the
westward of its true position.”


SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE HARBOR OF SIMODA.

BY LIEUTENANT WM. L. MAURY, U. S. NAVY.

  U. S. STEAM-FRIGATE MISSISSIPPI,
  _Honolulu_, October 26, 1854.

Vessels bound to the harbor of Simoda, to the southward and westward,
should make Cape Idzu, from which Rock island bears E. S. E. ¼  E.,
distant about five miles; and if the weather is at all clear, the chain
of islands at the entrance of the gulf of Yedo will at the same time be
plainly visible.

Between Rock island and the main land, there are a number of rocks
awash and above water, among which the Japanese junks freely pass, but
a ship should not attempt a passage inside of Rock island, unless in
case of urgent necessity, particularly as the northeasterly current,
which sweeps along this coast, seems to be, at this point, capricious,
both in direction and velocity.

Giving Rock island a berth of a mile, the harbor of Simoda will be in
full view, bearing N. ¼  W., distant five miles.

Vandalia Bluff, on the east side of the entrance, may be recognised
by a grove of pine-trees on the summit of the bluff, and the village
of Susaki, which lies about one third of the way between it and Cape
Diamond. Cape Diamond is a sharp point making out to the eastward of
the entrance of the harbor.

Standing in from Rock island, you will probably pass through a number
of tide rips, but not get soundings with the hand lead, until near
the entrance of the harbor, when you will be in from fourteen to
twenty-seven fathoms.

Should the wind be from the northward and fresh, a vessel should anchor
at the mouth of the harbor until it lulls or shifts, or until she can
conveniently warp in, as it is usually flawy and always baffling.

Approaching from the northward and eastward, a vessel can pass on
either side of Oho Sima, from the centre, of which Cape Diamond bears
W. S. W. ¾   W., distant about twenty miles.

Between Oho Sima and Simoda no dangers are known to exist; but the
northeasterly current must be borne constantly in mind—particularly
at night and in thick weather. Its general strength is from two to
three miles per hour; but as this, as well as its direction, is much
influenced by the local wind, headlands, islands, &c., neither can be
relied upon.

Should Oho Sima be obscured by thick weather, before reaching Cape
Diamond, endeavor to sight Rock island, for there are no very
conspicuous objects on the main land, by which a stranger can recognise
the harbor at a distance, and the shore appears as one unbroken line.

To the westward of the harbor there are several sand beaches, and three
or four sand banks, These can be plainly discerned when within six or
eight miles, and are good landmarks.

A vessel from the southward and eastward should pass to the westward
of the island of Kozu Sima,[4] which may be known by a remarkable
snow-white cliff on its western side. There is also a white patch on
its summit, to the northward of the cliff. From this island the harbor
bears N. by W. ½  W., distant about twenty-eight miles.

 [4] This is the most southwestern island of the chain of islands lying
 off the Gulf of Yedo.

There are but two hidden dangers in the harbor; the first is the
Southampton rock, which lies in mid-channel, bearing N. ½  W. from
Vandalia bluff, about three fourths of the way between it and Centre
island. This rock is about twenty-five feet in diameter, and has two
fathoms water upon it. It is marked by a white spar-buoy.

The second is the Supply rock. Bearing S. by W., a short distance from
Buisako islet, and is a sharp rock, with eleven feet water upon it. Its
position is designated by a red spar-buoy.

Both of these buoys are securely moored, and the authorities of Simoda
have promised to replace them, should they by any cause be removed.

Centre island, which receives its name from being the point from which
the treaty limits are measured, is high, conical, and covered with
trees. A cave passes entirely through it.

In the outer roads, or mouth of the harbor, a disagreeable swell is
sometimes experienced; but inside of the Southampton rock and Centre
island, vessels are well sheltered, and the water comparatively smooth.
Moor with an open hawse to the southward and westward.

There are good landings for boats in Simoda creek, and at the village
of Kakizaki.

A harbor-master and three pilots have been appointed; wood, water,
fish, fowls, and eggs, also sweet potatoes and other vegetables may
be procured from the authorities. It is necessary to supply them with
casks to bring the water off.

  Latitude Centre island               34° 39′ 49″ N.
  Longitude   ”      ”                138° 57′ 50″ E.
  Variation                              52′ westerly.
  High Water, F. and C                        5 hours.
  Extreme rise of tide                     5 ft. 7 in.
  Mean      ”       ”                      3 ft.

To make the foregoing directions more easily comprehended, they
have been rendered as concise as possible, but to furnish further
information to navigators bound to, or passing the port, the following
additional remarks are appended:—

The harbor of Simoda is near the southeastern extremity of the
peninsula of Idzu, which terminates at the cape of that name. To the
northward of the harbor, a high ridge intersects the peninsula, and
south of this, all the way to the cape, it is broken by innumerable
peaks of less elevation.

The harbor bears S. W. by W. from Cape Sagami, at the entrance of Yedo
bay, distant about 45 miles.

Rock island is about 120 feet high, and a third of a mile in length,
with precipitous shores and uneven outlines. It has a thick matting of
grass, weeds, moss, &c., on the top.

From the summit of this island overfalls were seen, bearing N. ½ W.,
distant a mile, or mile and a half. These may have been caused by a
rock or reef. An attempt was made to find it, but the strong current
and fresh wind prevented a satisfactory examination. The Japanese
fishermen, however, deny the existence of any such danger.

N. by W. from Rock island, distant 2 miles, are the Ukona rocks. These
are two rocks, though they generally appear as one. The largest is
about 70 feet high. Between these and Rock island, the current was
found setting east-northeasterly, fully four miles an hour.

Centre island bears from Rock island N. ½  E., distant 5½ miles, and
from Ukona rocks N. by E. ½  E., distant 3½ miles.

Buisako islet lies N. N. E. from Centre island. It is about 40 feet
high, and covered with trees and shrubs.

Should the buoy on Southampton rock be removed, the east end of Centre
island on with the west end of Buisako, will clear the rock to the
westward.

Off the village of Susaki, and distant one third of a mile from the
shore, is a ledge of rocks, upon which the surf is always breaking;
give them a berth of two cables in passing.

Approaching from the eastward, the harbor will not open until you get
well inside of Cape Diamond.

To the northward of Cape Diamond is the bay of Sirahama, which is quite
deep, and as it has also several sand-beaches, it may be mistaken for
Simoda; but as you approach this bay, Cape Diamond will shut in the
Ukona rocks, and Rock island to the southward; while in the Simoda
roads they are visible from all points.

  Cape Idzu, latitude                34° 36′ 03″ N.
    ”    ”   longitude              138° 52′ 32″ E.
  Rock Island, latitude              34° 34′ 20″ N.
    ”    ”     longitude            138° 57′ 10″ E.

S. W. ½  W. from Kozu-Sima, distant about 20 miles, and south, a little
westerly, from Cape Idzu, distant about 40 miles, there are two patches
of dangerous rocks, 15 or 20 feet high, which have been named Redfield
rocks. They are in—Latitude 33° 56′ 13″ N., Longitude 138° 48′ 31″
E.; and Latitude 33° 57′ 31″ N., Longitude 138° 49′ 13″ E.

These positions may not be strictly correct, but it is believed they
are not much out of the way.

 Several errors in the first edition of these directions, published in
 July last, have been corrected in the above.—W. L. M.


SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR YEDO.

BY LIEUT. WM. L. MAURY, U. S. N.

Vessels from the southward, bound to this bay, should pass up to the
westward of the chain of islands lying off the gulf of Yedo, and are
cautioned against mistaking the deep bight of Kawatsu bay for the
entrance of Uraga channel, for on the northeast side of this bay there
is a ledge of rocks several miles from the shore, bearing from Cape
Sagami about W. N. W., distant ten miles, upon which one of the vessels
of our squadron grounded. A stranger without a correct chart would
naturally make this mistake, as the opening of the channel is not seen
at a distance from this quarter, the shore appearing as an unbroken
line.

The entrance to the channel bears from the centre of Oho-Sima N. E. by
N., distant about twenty miles. Stand in upon this line, and the Saddle
hill to the northward of Cape Sagami will be readily recognised, as
well as the round black knob on the eastern side of the channel. On
approaching Uraga, the Plymouth rocks will be plainly seen; give these
a berth of half a mile to clear the Ingersoll Patch, a sunken rock with
but one fathom on it, and which is the only known danger in the channel.

Between Plymouth rocks and Cape Kami-Saki, the ground is clear and the
anchorage good, if care be taken to get pretty well in, so as to avoid
the strong tides which sweep round the latter with great rapidity. A
spit makes out a short distance to the southward of Kami-Saki; but to
the northward of the cape, the shore is bold, and the water very deep.

On rounding Cape Kami-Saki, if bound for the city of Yedo, steer N. W.
by N., until Perry island bears S. by W. ¾  W., so as to clear Saratoga
spit, which extends well out from the eastern shore; then haul up,
keeping Perry island upon this bearing until the beacon on the low
point to the southward of Yedo bears W. N. W. This clears the shoal off
the point, and here there is good anchorage in about ten fathoms water,
in full view of the city of Yedo.

At this point our survey terminated; the boats, however, found a clear
channel, with plenty of water for the largest vessels, several miles
farther to the northward, and within a few miles of the city.

If bound to the American anchorage, from Cape Kami-Saki, steer N. W.,
and anchor in eight or ten fathoms water, with Perry island bearing
S. S. E., and Webster island S. W. by S.

To the southward of Webster island there is also good anchorage in six
and seven fathoms. Near this anchorage, there are two snug coves, very
accessible, in which vessels may conveniently repair and refit.

Susquehanna bay, three miles W. N. W. from Cape Kami-Saki, is well
sheltered, but it contains a number of reefs and rocks, and is
therefore not recommended as an anchorage.

Mississippi bay is four miles north of the American anchorage; it
is well sheltered from the prevailing winds. Upon anchoring it is
necessary to give the shore a wide berth, to avoid a shoal which
extends out from half to three quarters of a mile. The conspicuous
headland, or long yellow bluff, on the north side of this bay, is
called Treaty point; a shoal surrounds the point from two thirds of a
mile to a mile distant.

Between the American anchorage and Treaty point, the soundings are
irregular, shoaling suddenly from twelve to five fathoms on a bank of
hard sand.

To the northward of Treaty point, and N. N. W. from Cape Kami-Saki,
distant fourteen miles, is Yokuhama bay. To reach this anchorage, bring
the wooded bluff which terminates the high land on the north side of
the bay to bear N. by W. ½  W., and steer for it until Treaty point
bears S. W. by S.—(this clears the spit off the point); then haul up
about N. W. by N. for the bluff over the town of Kanagawa, and anchor
in five and a half or six fathoms, with the Haycock just open to the
eastward of Mandarin bluff. Mandarin is the steep bluff a mile to the
northward of Treaty point.

A flat extends out from the northern shore of this bay, between
Kanagawa and Beacon point from one to two miles; off Mandarin bluff
there is also a shoal extending a mile to the northward.

The bay of Yedo is about twelve miles wide, and thirty deep, with
excellent holding-ground, and capable of sheltering the fleets of the
world.

Our survey embraced the western shore only, from Cape Kami-Saki to
Beacon point. We had no opportunity of examining the eastern side.
The soundings from Treaty point across in an E. S. E. direction are
regular, and three fathoms were found about a mile and a half from the
opposite shore.

Of Uraga channel, a reconnoissance was made of the western shore only.

During our stay in the bay, from the 17th February to the 18th April,
the weather was generally fine, being occasionally interrupted by
strong winds and heavy rain. The gales came up suddenly from the
southward and westward with a low barometer, and continued for a short
time, when the wind hauled round to the northward and westward, and
moderated. We had no easterly blows; in fact, the wind was rarely from
this quarter, except when hauling round from the northward (as it
invariably did) by east to the southward and westward.

The tide is quite strong out in the bay; and off the tail of Saratoga
spit, Perry island, and Cape Kami-Saki, its velocity is much increased.
But at the anchorage in the bay of Yokuhama it was scarcely felt. At
Yokuhama the Japanese, authorities supplied us with wood and water, and
a few vegetables, fowls, eggs, oysters, and clams.

  Latitude, Cape Sagami                        35° 06′ 30″
  Longitude,     ”                            139° 40′
  Latitude, Webster Island                     35° 18′ 30″
  Longitude,   ”      ”                       139° 40′ 34″
  Latitude of Treaty building, north end of
    Yokuhama                                   35° 26′ 44″
  Longitude,    ”       ”                     139° 40′ 23″
  Variation                                   25′ westerly.
  High Water, F. and C                             6 hours.
  Rise and fall at Yokuhama                         6 feet.


SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE PORT OF HAKODADI.

BY LIEUTENANT WM. L. MAURY, U. S. N.

                            UNITED STATES STEAM-FRIGATE MISSISSIPPI,
                                 AT SEA, _July 20, 1854_.

This splendid and beautiful bay, which for accessibility and safety is
one of the finest in the world, lies on the north side of the straits
of Sangar, which separate the Japanese islands of Nippon and Yeso, and
about midway between Cape SirijaSaki[5] (the N. E. point of Nippon),
and the city of Matsmai. It bears from the cape N. W. ½  W., distant
about 45 miles, and is about 4 miles wide at the entrance, and 5 miles
deep.

 [5] Saki, in the Japanese language, means Cape, consequently it should
 more properly be called Cape Sirija; but to prevent mistakes it has
 been thought advisable to adopt the Japanese names.

The harbor is the southeastern arm of the bay, and is completely
sheltered, with regular soundings and excellent holding ground. It is
formed by a bold-peaked promontory, standing well out from the high
land of the main, with which it is connected by a low sandy isthmus,
and which, appearing at a distance as an island, may be easily
recognised.

The town is situated on the northeast slope of the promontory, facing
the harbor, and contains about 6,000 inhabitants.

Approaching from the eastward, after passing Cape Suwu Kubo, named on
our chart Cape Blunt, which is a conspicuous headland 12 miles E. by S.
from the town, the junks at anchor in the harbor will be visible over
the low isthmus.


FOR ENTERING THE HARBOR.

Rounding the promontory of Hakodadi, and giving it a berth of a mile,
to avoid the calms under the high land, steer for the sharp peak of
Komaga daki, bearing about N., until the east peak of the Saddle,
bearing about N. E. by N., opens to the westward of the round knob on
the side of the mountain, then haul up to the northward and eastward,
keeping them open until the centre of the sandhills on the isthmus
bears S. E. by E. ¾  E.; these may be recognised by the dark knolls
upon them. This will clear a spit which makes out from the northwestern
point of the town in a north-northwesterly direction two thirds of
a mile; then bring the sandhills a point on the port bow, and stand
in until the northwestern point of the town bears S. W. ½  W., when
you will have the best berth, with 5½ or 6 fathoms water. If it is
desirable to get nearer in, haul up a little to the eastward of S., for
the low rocky peak which will be just visible over the sloping ridge to
the southward and eastward of the town. A vessel of moderate draught
may approach within a quarter of a mile of Tsuki point, where there
is a building-yard for junks. This portion of the harbor, however, is
generally crowded with vessels of this description; and, unless the
want of repairs, or some other cause, renders a close berth necessary,
it is better to remain outside.

If the Peak or Saddle is obscured by clouds or fog, after doubling the
promontory, steer N. by E. ½  E., until the sandhills are brought upon
the bearing above given, when proceed as there directed.

A short distance from the tail of the spit is a detached sandbank,
with 3½ fathoms on it. The outer edge of this is marked by a white
spar-buoy. Between this and the spit there is a narrow channel with 5
or 6 fathoms water. Vessels may pass on either side of the buoy, but it
is most prudent to go to the northward of it.

Should the wind fail before reaching the harbor, there is good
anchorage in the outer roads, in from 25 to 10 fathoms.

Excellent wood and water may be procured from the authorities of the
town; or, if preferred, water can be easily obtained from Kamida creek,
which enters the harbor to the northward and eastward of the town.

The season, at the time of our visit, was unfavorable for procuring
supplies; a few sweet and Irish potatoes, eggs, and fowls, however,
were obtained, and these articles, at a more favorable period of the
year, will no doubt be furnished in sufficient quantities to supply any
vessels that may in future visit the port.

Our seine supplied us with fine salmon and a quantity of other fish,
and the shores of the bay abound with excellent shellfish.

During our stay in this harbor, from the 17th May to 3d June, the
weather was generally pleasant until the 1st June, when the fog set in.
It was usually calm in the morning, but toward the middle of the day a
brisk breeze from S. W. sprung up.

  Latitude, mouth of Kamida creek                41° 49′ 22″ N.
  Longitude,   ”        ”     ”                 140° 47′ 45″ E.
  Variation                                           4° 30′ W.
  High Water, F. and C                                 5 hours.
  Extreme rise and fall of tide                         3 feet.

Our chronometers were rated at Napa Kiang, Loo-Choo, from the position
of that place as given by Captain Beechy, R. N.


THE CURRENCY QUESTION.

[In the text is given an account of the negotiations relative to the
comparative value of the American and Japanese coin. It is thought
as well to give the report of the pursers appointed to arrange the
question, which will be found below.]

                            UNITED STATES STEAM-FRIGATE POWHATAN,
                                        SIMODA, _June 15, 1854_.

SIR: The committee appointed by you, in your letter of the 12th
instant, to confer with a committee from the Japanese commissioners in
reference to the rate of exchange and currency between the two nations
in the trade at the ports opened, and to settle the price of coal to be
delivered at this port, beg leave to report:—

The Japanese committee, it was soon seen, came to the conference with
their minds made up to adhere to the valuation they had already set
upon our coins, even if the alternative was the immediate cessation
of trade. The basis upon which they made their calculation was the
nominal rate at which the government sells bullion when it is purchased
from the mint, and which seems also to be that by which the metal
is received from the mines. The Japanese have a decimal system of
weight, like the Chinese, of catty, tael, mace, candareen, and cash,
by which articles in general are weighed; but gold and silver are not
reckoned above taels. In China a tael of silver in weight and one in
currency are the same, for the Chinese have no silver coin; but in
Japan, as in European countries, the standard of value-weight and
that of currency-weight differ. We were told that a tael weight of
silver has now come to be reckoned, when it is bullion, as equal to
225 candareens, or 2 taels, 2 mace, 5 candareens; but when coined, the
same amount in weight is held to be worth 6 taels, 4 mace. It is at the
bullion value that the government has decided to receive our dollar,
the same at which they take the silver from the mines; asserting that,
as its present die and assay give it no additional value, it is worth
no more to them. In proportion to a tael, a dollar weighs 7 mace, 1 1-5
candareen, which, at the rates of bullion value, makes it worth 1 tael,
6 mace, or 1,600 cash. Thus the Japanese government will make a profit
of 66-2/3 per cent. on every dollar paid them of full weight, with the
trifling deduction of the expense of recoining it. The injustice of
this arrangement was shown, and the propriety of paying to the seller
himself the coin we gave at this depreciated rate urged, but in vain.

For gold the rate is more, as the disparity between the value of
bullion and that of coin, among the Japanese, is not so great. A
tael weight of gold is valued at 19 taels in currency, and a mace at
1 tael, 9 mace. The gold dollar weighs almost 5 candareens, but the
Japanese have reckoned it as the twentieth part of a $20 piece, which
they give as 8 mace, 8 candareens; and, consequently, the dollar is
only 4 candareens, 4 cash. This weight brings the gold dollar, when
compared with the tael of bullion gold worth 19 taels, to be worth 836
cash, and the $20 piece to be worth 16,720 cash, or 16 taels, 7 mace,
2 candareens. This, when converted into a silver value, makes a gold
dollar worth 52¼ cents, and a $20 piece worth $10 45, at which the
Japanese propose to take them. But this valuation of the gold dollar
at 52¼ cents, when reckoned at 836 cash, its assessed value by the
Japanese government, suffers the same depreciation as our silver; and
its real value, when compared with the inflated currency in use among
the people, is only about 17¼ cents. Consequently, by this estimate,
gold becomes 50 per cent. worse for us to pay in than silver. The
currency value of a gold dollar, taking the its-evoo as of equal
purity, and comparing them weight for weight, is only 1,045 cash, or
nearly 22 cents in silver; so that the actual depreciation on the part
of the Japanese is not so great as silver—being for the two metals,
when weighed with each other, for silver as 100 to 33-1/3, and for gold
as 22 to 17. The elements of this comparison are not quite certain,
and therefore its results are somewhat doubtful; but the extraordinary
discrepancy of both metals, compared with our coins and with their own
copper coins, shows how the government has inflated the whole monetary
system in order to benefit itself.

The parties could come to no agreement, as we declined to consent to
the proposals of the Japanese, who were decided to adhere to their
valuation of a silver dollar at 1 tael, 6 mace, or 1,600 cash; neither
would they consent to do justly by us in relation to the moneys paid
them at this place before our departure for Hakodadi, at the rate of
only 1 tael, 2 mace, or 1,200 cash, to the dollar, by which they had
made a profit of 76 per cent. on each dollar, stating that the money
paid them at this rate had passed out of their hands; and, moreover,
that the prices placed upon the articles furnished had been charged at
reduced prices with reference to the low value placed upon the dollar.

For the amount due and unsettled, for supplies received at Yokuhama,
and on account of which Purser Eldredge paid Moriyama Yenoske, imperial
interpreter, $350 in gold and silver, that they might be assayed and
tested at Yedo, they consent to receive the dollar at the valuation
now placed on them—that is, at the rate of 1,600 cash for the silver
dollar.

We carefully investigated the price of the coal to be delivered to
vessels in this port. We learn that 10,000 catties or 100 piculs have
arrived; and this, at the rate of 1,680 catties to a ton of 2,240
pounds, or 16 4-5 piculs, costs 262 taels, 6 mace, 5 candareens, 3
cash, or $164 16; making the rate to be $27 91 per ton. The Japanese
state that the price of coal would be considerably reduced as the
demand for it increased, and their facilities for mining became more
perfect.

In conclusion, we take pleasure in expressing our thanks to
Messrs. Williams and Portman, whose services as interpreters were
indispensable, and from whom we received important aid in our
investigations.

We have the honor to be, respectfully, your obedient servants,

                                              WILLIAM SPEIDEN,
                                               _Purser U. S. Navy_.

                                              J. C. ELDREDGE,
                                               _Purser U. S. Navy_.

     Commodore M. C. PERRY,
  _Commander-in-Chief U. S. Naval Forces
    in the East India and China Seas_.


TABLE OF JAPANESE DISTANCES.

 Twenty-eight and one fifth Ree, make one degree.
 One Ree is equal to thirty-six Tsho.
 One Tsho is equal to sixty Ken.
 One Ken is equal to one Meter, and nine hundred and nine thousandth of
 a meter.

 A Meter is about 39⅓ inches.


_Japanese Measurement of the Heights of Foogee Yama._

  Thirty-six Streets.
  One Street, sixty Ikis.
  One Iki, six Fans.[6]
  Six Fans, five American feet.

 [6] The fans used by the officials of Japan, are of a uniform size,
 and regulated by custom.


THE END.




POETRY AND THE DRAMA.


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 Contemplative. By WM. GILMORE SIMMS. With a Portrait on steel. 2
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 Lyra, and other Poems. By ALICE CAREY. 1 vol., 12mo, cloth.
 Price 75 cents.

 The Poetical Works of W. H. C. Hosmer. Now first collected. With a
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 Scottish Songs, Ballads, and Poems. By HEW AINSLIE, author of “The
 Ingleside,” “On with the Tartan,” “Rover of Loch-Ryan,” &c., &c.
 1 vol., 12mo. Price $1 00.

 The Poets and Poetry of Ireland. 1 vol., 8vo, with Plates. Edited by
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 Oliatta, and other Poems. By HOWARD H. CALDWELL, 12mo, cloth.
 Price $1 00.


HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY.


 Ancient Egypt under the Pharaohs. By JOHN KENRICK, M. A. In 2 vols.,
 12mo. Price $2 50.

 Newman’s Regal Rome. An Introduction to Roman History. By FRANCIS W.
 NEWMAN, Professor of Latin in the University College, London. 12mo,
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 The Catacombs of Rome, as Illustrating the Church of the First Three
 Centuries. By the Right Rev. W. INGRAHAM KIP, D.D., Missionary
 Bishop of California. Author of “Christmas Holidays in Rome,” “Early
 Conflicts of Christianity,” &c., &c. With over 100 Illustrations.
 12mo, cloth. Price 75 cents.

 The History of the Crusades. By JOSEPH FRANÇOIS MICHAUD. Translated by
 W. Robson. 3 vols., 12mo, Maps. Price $3 75.

 Napoleon in Exile; or, a Voice from St. Helena. Being the Opinions
 and Reflections of Napoleon, on the most important Events in his
 Life and Government, in his own words. By BARRY E. O’MEARA, his late
 Surgeon; with a Portrait of Napoleon, after the celebrated picture
 of Delaroche, and a view of St. Helena, both beautifully engraved on
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 Jomini’s Campaign of Waterloo. The Political and Military History of
 the Campaign of Waterloo, from the French of General Baron Jomini. By
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 Price 75 cents.

 Napier’s Peninsular War. History of the War in the Peninsula, and in
 the South of France, from the Year 1807 to 1814. By W. F. P. NAPIER,
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 Napier’s Peninsular War. History of the War in the Peninsula, and in
 the South of France, from the Year 1807 to 1814. By W. F. P. NAPIER,
 C. B., Colonel 43d Regiment, &c. In 5 vols., 12mo, with Portraits and
 Plans. Price $5 00. [In Press.]

 Discovery and Exploration of the Mississippi Valley. With the Original
 Narratives of Marquette, Allouez, Membré, Hennepin, and Anastase
 Douay. By JOHN GILMARY SHEA. With a fac-simile of the Original Map of
 Marquette. 1 vol., 8vo, cloth, antique. Price $2.

 Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest Coast of America, in the Years
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 Gabriel Franchère. Translated and Edited by J. V. HUNTINGTON. 12mo,
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 Las Cases’ Napoleon, Memoirs of the Life, Exile, and Conversations of
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 $8 00.