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                              DEVILS TOWER
                           NATIONAL MONUMENT
                               _Wyoming_


   UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR, J. A. Krug, _Secretary_
           NATIONAL PARK SERVICE, Newton B. Drury, _Director_

  _An 865-foot tower of rock, serving as evidence of volcanic activity
  that occurred many millions of years ago_

Devils Tower National Monument has the distinction of being the first
national monument to be created. It was established by proclamation of
President Theodore Roosevelt in the year 1906 under authority of the
so-called Antiquities Act.

The great natural feature, Devils Tower (known to the Sioux Indian as
MATEO TEPEE, meaning Grizzly Bears’ Lodge), is like a huge fluted
monumental shaft set upon a mound, alongside the Belle Fourche River and
amidst rolling grasslands and pine forests.

The Tower rises to a height of 1,280 feet from the river bed and some
865 feet from its apparent base on the hilltop. The diameter at its base
is approximately 1,000 feet, and at the top averages 275 feet. The top
surface embraces about an acre and a half, upon which mosses, ferns,
grasses, shrubs, and sagebrush grow. Mice, pack rats, and chipmunks have
been seen there, and the falcon and hawk make it their home. As viewed
from various angles, the Tower has many shapes.

The fresh rock is of a dark grey color which, after weathering, bleaches
to a light grey with tinges of buff. Lichens of various colors and
shades grow on its face, reflecting tones of light, so that in color its
appearance may change several times during the day, depending on
conditions of atmosphere and light. On occasion, a red sunset may give
it a reddish glow, fading to dull purple.


                          _A Geologic Mystery_

As to the mode of origin of the Devils Tower geologists are by no means
in agreement. That the rock of the Tower was at one time molten and was
forced upward from deep within the earth is no question, and that it
cooled beneath the surface is probable. But whether the great shaft as
it now stands is in reality hardened lava in the neck of an old volcano
the enclosing walls of which have been removed by erosion, or whether it
is part of a great sheet or sill of molten rock which was injected
between rock layers, cannot be positively stated.

On the basis of either explanation hundreds of feet of rock have
obviously been removed by erosion from around the Tower and carried by
rivers toward the sea.

The columns present an interesting problem. They appear to have been
produced in the rapidly cooling volcanic rock by regularly arranged
cracks which were due to contraction of the cooling mass. The fact that
they are not well developed in the base of the Tower may be due to the
slower cooling of the more deeply buried part. The flare of the columns
is a subject too involved for this brief account.

As to the age of the Tower it is believed to have been formed early in
the Age of Mammals, perhaps 50 million years ago, but to have been
uncovered by erosion only in the last one or two million years.


                        _Plant and Animal Life_

About a half mile from the entrance to Devils Tower National Monument
the visitor finds himself driving through a thriving prairie dog “town.”
These animals were as typical of the original West as the buffalo. Their
presence in towns covering several square miles was incompatible with
agriculture, and the elimination of the species has progressed to the
point where they are now rarely found. Since all forms of plant and
animal life are protected within national monuments, this colony of
prairie dogs gives one a glimpse of the Old West.

Mule deer may be seen occasionally, and also many small animals
including cottontails and chipmunks.

A wide diversity of weather conditions, soil, and elevation, and the
location of the monument between the mountains and plains, produce an
interesting and extensive fauna and flora. These factors, together with
interesting geological problems, afford the student of natural history a
wealth of observation and information if he will but take the time to
follow not only the trail which encircles the Devils Tower proper but
the 4½ miles of nature trail as well.

    [Illustration: _Devils Tower and the Belle Fourche River_]

    [Illustration: _Distant view of Devils Tower_]

    [Illustration: _Fragments of fallen columns at base of Devils
    Tower_]


                         _The Monument Museum_

Many questions come to those who view Devils Tower, and an effort is
made to answer them through exhibits in the museum at the parking area.
There, by use of pictures, diagrams, artifacts, and specimens, is
presented an explanation of some of the features of the Tower, its
geology, setting, history, and legend. These exhibits, of interest to
the layman and student alike, are a logical prelude to a walk along the
trails.


                       _Location and Facilities_

Located a little west of the center of Crook County, which lies in the
northeast corner of Wyoming, the monument entrance is 7 miles northward
from U. S. Highway 14, 29 miles northwest of Sundance, Wyo., and 33
miles northeast of Moorcroft, Wyo.

In the days gone by, because of its inspiring setting, the area close to
the Tower was a favorite camping and picnicking site, first by the
Indian and then by the pioneer who braved the rugged and traillike
access to the very base of the great rock. Not the least inviting
feature was the large spring of unusually pure and cold water located
but a few feet from the base of the Tower, as if flowing from it.

In the development of the area, to afford easy access and more comfort
for the hurried vacationist and thoroughgoing student as well, these
salient primitive features are preserved by making the water available
at nearly all principal points and by the development of the natural
picnic and campground areas within the shadows of the Tower. Adjacent to
the area, as well as within a few miles of it, are tourist cabins for
those wishing overnight lodging, but who are not equipped to camp.


                            _Administration_

Devils Tower National Monument, containing 1,194 acres of federally
owned land, is one of the areas of the National Park System owned by the
people of the United States and administered for them by the National
Park Service. In these areas the scenery and the objects of historic,
prehistoric, and scientific interest are carefully preserved and
displayed for public enjoyment.

Inquiries regarding the monument should be addressed to the
Superintendent, Devils Tower National Monument, Devils Tower, Wyo.

    [Illustration: DEVILS TOWER NATIONAL MONUMENT
    WYOMING]

  DEVILS TOWER ELEV. 5117
    Store
    Devils Tower Post Office and Store
  BELLE FOURCHE RIVER
  ENTRANCE STATION
  PRAIRIE DOG COLONY
  LOOKOUT POINT
  Fossil Hill
  Museum and Office
    Campgrounds
    Picnic Grounds
  _REVISED APR. 1947 NM.-DT.-7001 J.J. Black, Mar. 1942._

                LEGEND

    — - —     Monument Boundary
    ======    Main Roads
   = = = =    Secondary Road
   - ~ ~ -    Foot Trails

    [Illustration: VICINITY MAP]

  DEVILS TOWER NATIONAL MONUMENT
    LITTLE MISSOURI BUTTES
    Belle Fourche River
    Devils Tower
    Alva
    Hullett
  _U. S. Highway_ 85
    Belle Fourche
    Four Corners
    Spearfish
    TO NEWCASTLE
    TO MEDORA, N. DAK.
  _U. S. Highway_ A 85
    Deadwood
    Lead
    TO MT RUSHMORE NATIONAL MEMORIAL
  _U. S. Highway_ 14
    Carlile
    Moorcroft
    Spearfish
    Sturgis
    Sundance
    TO GILLETTE
    TO RAPID CITY
  _U. S. Highway_ 212
    Alzeda
    Belle Fourche
    TO MILES CITY
  _U. S. Highway_ 16
    Upton
  LEGEND
    ==== Oiled Roads
    —— Secondary Roads

Three miles of oil-surfaced road leads from the entrance on the east to
the parking area, museum, Tower trail, and picnic areas and campgrounds.

A permit fee of 50 cents for each automobile, motorcycle, and house
trailer is collected at the monument entrance. This permit remains good
throughout the entire calendar year in which it is purchased.

All rock, plants, and animals on the monument are protected and must not
be disturbed or harmed.

Help keep the grounds clean by using the fireplaces and refuse
receptacles.

Camping, picnicking, and parking are limited to areas so designated.

                       U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1949 O-F—834746




                          Transcriber’s Notes


—This eBook is based on a U.S. government publication which is public
  domain in the United States.

—Corrected a few palpable typos.

—Within the map, transcribed labels, and added italicized text where
  needed to define the context.

—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
  _underscores_.