Produced by the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
generously made available by The Internet Archive)









                                THE

                              HISTORY

                              OF THE

                        ISLAND OF DOMINICA.

                            CONTAINING

              A DESCRIPTION OF ITS SITUATION, EXTENT,
                    CLIMATE, MOUNTAINS, RIVERS,
                   NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, &c. &c.

                           TOGETHER WITH

         AN ACCOUNT OF THE CIVIL GOVERNMENT, TRADE, LAWS,
         CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS OF THE DIFFERENT INHABITANTS
                   OF THAT ISLAND. ITS CONQUEST
                  BY THE FRENCH, AND RESTORATION
                     TO THE BRITISH DOMINIONS.


                         By THOMAS ATWOOD.


                              LONDON:

      PRINTED FOR J. JOHNSON, NO. 72, ST. PAUL’S CHURCHYARD.

                            M DCC XCI.




INTRODUCTION.


It is greatly to be lamented, that although the island of Dominica
is so very capable of being rendered one of the chief, if not the
best, the English have in the West Indies; yet, from a want of
knowledge of its importance, or inattention, it is at this time
almost as much unsettled, as when it was ceded to Great Britain,
near thirty years ago.

This is the more remarkable, from the great consequence the
possession of it is to the English, in case of a rupture with
France, it being the key of the British dominions in that part
of the world, and from its situation between the two principal
settlements of the French, Martinique and Guadeloupe, it is the
only place in the West Indies, by which there is a possibility for
Great Britain to maintain the sovereignty of those seas.

It has moreover many conveniences for the service of both an army
and fleet, which few other West India islands can boast; and was
it to be well settled with British subjects, would be of material
assistance to our other possessions, by furnishing them with many
articles of which they very often are greatly in need.

For the purpose of bringing forth to view these capabilities of
Dominica, the following history of that island is submitted to the
candid perusal of a generous public by the author; whose chief
inducement for writing it, was his hope, that it might be some
small means of service to a country, in which he has spent several
years of his life, and the prosperity of which, it is his ardent
wish to see speedily promoted.

The history of distant settlements belonging to Great Britain, it
is presumed, cannot fail of being acceptable to every Englishman
who wishes well to his country; and however deficient this essay of
his may be, in point of erudition, correctness, or correspondent
circumstances, yet, from its being the first on the subject, the
author hopes it may meet with a favourable reception.

It falls not within the compass of this work to enter into details
of acts of the legislature, the conduct of governors, or of
individuals of that island; these he leaves for a more extensive
work, or for abler pens to record; and if what is here submitted
to public perusal serve in the least to promote the welfare of
the present and future inhabitants of Dominica, and thereby the
interests of the British nation at large, the purpose of the author
by this publication will be fully answered.

  London, May 1791.




CONTENTS.


CHAP. I.

  _Description of the island, its situation, extent, climate,
  and other subjects; together with an account of
  the conquest of it, its cession to Great Britain, and the disposal
  of the lands by the crown._                                 Page 1


CHAP. II.

  _Description of the soil, mountains, and woods; of valuable timber,
  and other trees; also of the birds of the woods peculiar
  to the island._                                                 17


CHAP. III.

  _Of the rivers and lakes in the island, river and fresh water
  fish, also of sea fish, land crabs, and a description of the native
  quadruped, and other animals._                                  35


CHAP. IV.

  _Of the most remarkable reptiles and insects of the island, their
  venomous and other qualities, with remarks._                    51


CHAP. V.

  _An account of the different articles of West India produce raised
  in the island; the number of sugar and coffee plantations
  therein, with remarks._                                         72


CHAP. VI.

  _Names and descriptions of particular West India fruits which
  grow in the island; also of European and American fruits,
  herbs, vegetables, and flowers; with observations on their
  properties, &c._                                                86


CHAP. VII.

  _Of the trade of the island, previous to its reduction by the
  French last war, with a relation of that circumstance; and
  the articles of capitulation to which it surrendered._         104


CHAP. VIII.

  _Of the government of the island under the French, with a relation
  of the distressed situation of the English inhabitants, until
  its restoration to Great Britain; an account of that event,
  and several other subjects._                                   138


CHAP. IX.

  _An account of the division of the island into parishes and towns,
  with a description of its capital, the principal buildings,
  fortifications, and harbour; together with observations on
  Prince Rupert’s Bay, and the grand Savannah in that
  island._                                                       171


CHAP. X.

  _The civil government, officers, courts, and other subjects relative
  to them; also a description of the militia of that island._    195


CHAP. XI.

  _Description of the white inhabitants, free people of colour, and
  native Indians of the island; their manners and customs,
  with observations._                                            208


CHAP. XII.

  _Of the negro slaves of this island, their rebellion and reduction,
  the usage, manners, customs, and characters of these people
  in general in the West Indies._                                224


CHAP. XIII.

  _Of the present trade of the island, and the free port of Roseau,
  with remarks. Conclusion._                                     276




THE

HISTORY

OF THE

ISLAND OF DOMINICA.




CHAPTER I.

  DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND, ITS SITUATION, EXTENT, CLIMATE AND
    OTHER SUBJECTS; TOGETHER WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE CONQUEST OF IT,
    ITS CESSION TO GREAT BRITAIN, AND THE DISPOSAL OF THE LANDS BY
    THE CROWN.


The island of Dominica is situated in 15 degrees, 25 minutes, north
latitude; 61 degrees, 15 minutes, west longitude from London; and
43 degrees, 40 minutes, from Ferro.

The discovery of this Island was claimed by the three kingdoms, of
England, France, and Spain; but the right of possession remained
undecided, and Dominica was considered as a neutral island, by
three Crowns; till the year 1759, when, by conquest, it fell under
the dominion of Great Britain; and was afterwards ceded to England,
by the treaty of peace concluded at Paris, in February 1763.

On the cession of the island to the English, Commissioners were
appointed under the Great Seal, and sent out there with authority,
to sell and dispose of the lands by public sale, to English
subjects, in allotments. “Of not more than one hundred acres of
such land as was cleared; and not exceeding three hundred acres in
woods, to any one person, who should be the best bidder for the
same.” These allotments were disposed of for the benefit of the
Crown, and were confirmed to the purchaser, by grants, under the
Great Seal of England; with conditions in each grant, “That every
purchaser should pay down twenty per cent of the whole purchase
money, together with sixpence sterling per acre, for the expence of
surveying the land; and that, the remainder of the purchase money
should be secured by bonds; to be paid by equal installments, in
the space of five years, next after the date of the grant. That,
each purchaser should keep on the lands so by him purchased, one
white man, or two white women for every hundred acres of land, as
it became cleared; for the purpose of cultivating the same. Or in
default thereof, or non payment of the remainder of the purchase
money, the lands were to be forfeited to his Majesty, his heirs and
successors.”

The Commissioners were also impowered to execute leases to the
French inhabitants, of such lands as were found in their possession
at the time of the surrender of the island; and which lands were
thus leased to those inhabitants, who were desirous of keeping
them in possession, on consideration of their taking the oaths of
allegiance to his Britannic Majesty.

These leases were executed for a term, not less than seven, some
fourteen, and others for forty years absolute; renewable at the
time limitted for the expiration of the same. With conditions in
every lease, “That the possessor, his heirs or assigns, should pay
to his Majesty, his heirs or successors, the sum of two shillings
sterling per annum, for every acre of land, of which the lease
should consist.” “And, that they should not sell or dispose of
their lands, without the consent and approbation of the Governor,
or Commander in chief of that island, for the time being.”

The Commissioners were likewise impowered to make grants, under the
Great Seal, of lots to poor settlers; to such English subjects, as
should be deemed fit objects of his Majesty’s bounty; in allotments
of not more than thirty acres of land, to any one person. With
authority also to the said Commissioners, to reserve and keep such
lands, in the most convenient parts of the island as they should
think proper for fortifications, and the use of his Majesty’s army,
and navy. Together with a boundary of fifty feet from the sea
shore, round the whole island; and reserving all mines, of gold and
silver, which might thereafter be discovered there, for the use of
his Majesty, his heirs and successors[1].

This island is 29 miles in length, and 16 miles in breadth, but in
some parts it is broader, being of a very irregular figure. It is
rugged and mountainous in some parts; but spacious plains, and fine
extensive vallies are interspersed throughout the island, which are
in general very productive.

The climate of this country is hot at times, in places on the sea
coast, that are much sheltered by mountains; but in the open parts
of the island, at no great distance from the sea shore, it is
moderately cool at most times, and greatly resembles the climate
of England, in summer. This is occasioned by the almost constant
breezes blowing from the mountains, which moderating the heat,
render it more supportable than it is, in those islands of the West
Indies that are more level. In the interior mountainous parts, it
is perfectly cool in general; owing to the vast quantity of tall
woods, and the heavy rains which fall in those places, in some part
or other almost every day; which render it so cold, in the night
especially, that people who reside there are obliged to use woollen
coverings on their beds, in the same quantity as in winter time in
England[2].

The climate is, however, reckoned very wholesome, especially in
those places where invalids usually go for the recovery of their
health, which is frequently re-established by a few weeks residence
there. Besides, a good breeze generally blows from the mountains
most part of the day, which greatly moderates the heat on the sea
coast; and persons who live there temperately are seldom afflicted
with the disorders, incident to most other West India islands.

The wet season in this country commonly sets in about the end of
August, and continues till about the beginning of January, but
with frequent intervals of fine weather. The severity of the rainy
season, is usually in the months of September and October, when
very heavy continual rain falls for days together; nay, it has
been known to fall there for two or three weeks at a time, with
very little intermission. The island, however, is seldom without
rain, in some part or other; and often during a promising day, the
disappointed traveller meets with such sudden, and heavy showers,
that in an instant wet him to the skin, nor is an umbrella or great
coat of much service, the rain falling in such large drops, and
often accompanied with such severe gusts of wind, that the umbrella
is rather an inconvenience; but let him be careful to change his
wet cloaths as soon as possible, for inconsideration, in this
respect, has proved fatal to many in this climate.

When the rains are violent and of long continuance, they do great
mischief in the island, among the plantations; carrying away large
tracts of land with coffee, plantain trees, sugar canes, and ground
provisions; which are all hurried into the sea. In the towns also,
they often do much damage, causing the rivers to overflow their
banks, or breaking out in fresh places, carry away houses, or
whatever else stands in the way of these dreadful torrents.

Thunder and lightening is seldom so severe in Dominica, or does
so much damage there as in many other parts of the West Indies;
although there have been some instances of lightening striking
vessels in the road, damaging houses and killing people; but such
instances are very rare.

Nor are earthquakes, those alarming phænomena of nature, so
frequent, or so destructive in this, as in many other West India
islands; yet, it is asserted by some of the first inhabitants,
that earthquakes happened here formerly very frequently; especially
soon after the English first took possession of the country; when
they were felt severely, several times in a day, for the space of
some weeks together, which so terrified the inhabitants, that they
were on the point of quitting the place, but happily they soon
subsided. These people say likewise, that although no material
damage happened at that time, yet that the island was split in
several places; and in particular, a large chasm was made in a
mountain there called Demoulins, so very deep, that though they
attempted with several coils of cordage spliced together, yet they
were unable to fathom it. There is, however, no appearance left of
that remarkable circumstance, which yet by no means contradicts the
veracity of their report.

Hurricanes, those dreadful scourges of the West Indies, are seldom
very severe in Dominica; and in comparison with the mischief they
generally do in other islands, may more properly be termed only
heavy gusts of wind, especially when compared with the destruction
done by that in the Leward islands the first of September, 1772;
the most dreadful one that for some time has been felt in the West
Indies. In the hurricane season, the damage received in Dominica
is principally occasioned by the very heavy rains, or by the sea,
which sometimes in those seasons tumbles into the bays, especially
that of Roseau, in a very frightful manner; and making on the
shore, overwhelms the vessels that unfortunately happen to be there
at anchor; and sweeps away the houses, or whatever else is in the
way of its destructive force.

A particular circumstance of this kind, which happened there the
last day of September, 1780, was the most remarkable that has
occurred in this island, in the memory of the oldest inhabitant,
and did the most mischief. It did considerable damage among the
plantations, and in Roseau destroyed several houses on the bay, and
several vessels in the road.

The effects of these hurricanes in the West Indies are truly
astonishing; for the wind, with a fury hardly credible, blowing
from different points at one and the same instant, carries all
before it; the rain is as it were taken out of the sea, and hurled
on the land in clouds; which from not having time to exhale, is as
salt as the briny element from which it was driven; and falls in
drops as large as hail stones, affecting the hands and naked face,
in the same manner as a severe hail storm; the whole of the scene
is truly alarming and beyond description dreadful.

The mornings and evenings in Dominica are in general remarkably
pleasant and cool; that is to say, from day break till eight
o’clock in the morning, and between five and six o’clock till bed
time in the evening. Early in the morning is the time, when those
who can afford it, and wish to preserve their healths, will do
well to employ their leisure time till breakfast, either riding on
horseback, or taking a walk, to enjoy the cool, enlivening breezes.
Bathing, previous to these exercises, is also the best preservative
of health, and here people have the opportunity of doing it either
in the rivers or in the sea.

Frequently bathing in cold water is productive of much benefit to
persons in warm climates; as, exclusive of that which arises from
cleanliness, so necessary in hot countries, it braces the nerves,
and keeps the body refreshingly cool the whole day after. By taking
a ride there on horseback, a person in the space of half an hour
is transported from an uncomfortable warm air on the sea coast, to
a pleasantly cool retreat in the interior parts of the country;
which, in an evening especially, he may leisurely enjoy, till
disposed to return to town; when the breezes, by that time set in
to blow from the mountains, permit him to sleep the remainder of
the night in cool tranquillity.

The taking a morning or evening’s walk in this island, by the sides
of the rivers, whose glassy surface glides swiftly on, or murmuring
water-falls foam to the view, is very pleasing. Does fancy lead
him to enjoy the scene, a mile or two, he still finds ample
amusement. Viewing the rapid streams, he sees the silvered fry,
sporting on its surface, in astonishing numbers. The serpentine
windings of the rivers in some parts; in others, the waters wide,
deep, and silently flowing along; and in many places, numberless
falls of water, tumbling down the sides of steep precipices, or
rushing over the tops of huge stones in the beds of the rivers,
at once charm both the sight and hearing. Is he fond of the
delightful study of botany; here an extensive field is open for his
speculation, and numberless curious shrubs, plants, and flowers,
that grow spontaneously, afford him ample scope for enquiry?

Rising early in a morning in this country, you have the delightful
pleasure of exploring the wonders of the heavens; the morning star,
with a rapidity that exceeds all bounds of conception, running
its daily course; the sun emerging from the sea, all glorious
to behold; and in the words of the Psalmist, “Coming forth like
a bridegroom out of his chamber;” and all the lesser planets
twinkling into obscurity. In the evening in Dominica, is the most
amazingly glorious scenery that can possibly be imagined; the
heavens bespangled with innumerable stars, which the dense climate
of Europe hides from mortal sight, or which are but barely to be
distinguished, are in this island open to full view; and the lovers
of astronomy have there an opportunity to make new discoveries in
that science.

In the evenings, although the air is cool, yet it is not
accompanied by those noxious vapours, so remarkable for their
dangerous effects in some parts of the West Indies; so that it is
not uncommon for people in this Island to sit whole evenings in the
open air, without any detriment to their healths.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] It is the opinion of many people, that there are mines of both
those metals in this island; particularly of silver; pieces of
silver ore having been found in the interior N. E. part.

[2] In the interior parts of this island, it is impossible to
preserve salt in its proper state; for as soon as it is brought
thither, it dissolves into a thick liquid, from the remarkable
dampness of the air. This dampness is also prejudicial to articles
of furniture that are glued, which frequently, after a long
succession of rain, will fall to pieces.




CHAPTER II.

  DESCRIPTION OF THE SOIL, MOUNTAINS, AND WOODS OF VALUABLE TIMBER,
    AND OTHER TREES: ALSO OF THE BIRDS OF THE WOODS, PECULIAR TO
    THE ISLAND.


The Soil of Dominica, in some places, is a light, brown-coloured
mould, that appears to have been washed down from the mountains,
and mixed with decayed branches, and leaves of trees. In the level
country, towards the sea coast, and in many places of the interior
parts, it is a fine, deep, black mould, which is peculiarly adapted
to the cultivation of the sugar cane, coffee, cocoa, and all other
articles of West India produce. The under stratum of the soil is
a yellow, or brick clay, in some parts, in others it is a stiff
tarrace; but it is in most parts very stoney.

The land is in general very productive, especially in the interior
parts, but towards the sea coast, it requires to be frequently
manured; because the surface of it usually opens into large chasms
in dry weather, thereby exposing the soil to the excessive heat
of the sun; so that its vegetative quality can only be restored
by dunging. This, however, is not very easily done by the greater
part of the planters; because they have not in general a sufficient
number of cattle on their plantations, in proportion to the land
under cultivation, of the sugar cane in particular; from whence, in
a great measure, and to the want of negroes, is to be attributed
the small quantity of sugar exported from this settlement to
England.

Several of the mountains of this island are continually burning
with sulphur, of which they emit vast quantities. From these
mountains issue numbers of springs of mineral water, whose virtues
are extolled for the cure of many disorders; in some places the
water is so very hot, as to boil an egg, &c. in less time than
boiling water, and this heat is retained at some distance from its
source.

These sulphureous mountains are certainly among the most wonderful
phænomena of nature, and command our astonishment and admiration.
To see vast tracts of land on fire, whose smoke, like clouds,
stretches far around; brimstone in flames, like streams of water
issuing from the sides of precipices; in the vallies large holes
full of bituminous matter, boiling and bubbling like a caldron;
the earth trembling under the tread, and bursting out with loud
explosions, are objects truly terrific to the beholders; who, on
the spot, are struck with awe and admiration, on viewing such
dreadful works of the Almighty, who causes them to exist, for
purposes only known by him[3].

Others of the mountains are exceedingly large and high, whose
summits, sides and feet are covered with vast tall woods, which
together with the under woods, are so crouded as to be almost
impervious to the eye, and that for several miles around. From the
tops and sides of these descend numberless springs and water-falls,
which form the most delightfully romantic cascades, of fine, cool,
wholesome water, as clear as crystal, excepting in places where it
is tinctured with sulphur.

The woods of Dominica, which constitute nearly two thirds of the
island at present, including the parts that are incapable of
cultivation, on account of steep and rugged mountains, afford
a vast fund of excellent timber: consisting of locus-wood,
bullet-tree, mastic, cinnamon, rose-wood, yellow-sanders,
bastard-mahogany, iron-wood, several species of cedar, and various
other sorts of wood, useful for building houses, vessels and
canoes, for furniture, for dying, and other necessary purposes.

In the woods, an awful, yet pleasing solitariness prevails; but
that which makes them the more agreeably romantic, is the noise
of falling waters, the whistling of the wind among the trees, the
singing and chirping of an innumerable quantity of birds among
the branches, and the uncommon cries of various kinds of harmless
insects, which together with the dark shadiness of the trees, form
a solemn but delightful scene for contemplation.

The trees in the woods are of uncommon height, and by far exceed
in loftiness the tallest trees in England. In this island their
tops seem to touch the clouds, which appear as if skimming swiftly
over their upper branches, and looking up the trees is painful to
the eye. Many of the trees are like wise of enormous girt, and
their spreading boughs extend far around; those of the fig-tree
especially, under whose inviting shade hundreds at a time may
repose themselves, without fear of being wet by the heaviest shower
of rain, or dread of the influence of the scorching sun-beams.

In the woods the trees are, in common, covered with different
foliage, so that it is usual to see one tree dressed out with the
rich liveries of several, all growing in beautiful variety: the
trunk and branches, covered with ivy and other plants, growing on
them like house-leeks.

That the leaves of different trees should be found on one tree,
is an object worthy of speculation; but yet, in my opinion, is no
other way to be accounted for, than by supposing that the seeds of
different trees, being scattered by the wind, fall into the heart
of the same plant, like house-leeks, and are thus incorporated into
the tree on which they are seen growing.

The different species of ivy, or rather wild vines, in the woods,
grow to a great size, and have the appearance of so many cords,
or thick ropes, fastened to the branches. Some of these are
very tough, strong, and useful; and hoops, baskets, and other
wicker utensils are made of them: also walking-sticks, called
supple-jacks, which, if cut in the proper season, are very durable,
and so pliant, that both ends may be bent together without
breaking them. These being in general regularly knotted, and of
a good polish, are much admired for walking-sticks, or to use on
horseback instead of whips; for both which purposes many of them
are frequently sent to England, where they are well known.

Among other valuable trees in the woods of Dominica is the
gum-tree, which yields great quantities of that article. The
circumference of the body of this tree is generally very great,
and its timber is, on that account, made into canoes; which is
done by digging or burning out the inside, and shaping the log
into form. The gum falls from the body and branches of the tree
in great quantities, in substance like white wax, and was very
serviceable to the planters of that island, during the time it was
in possession of the French last war; this gum being used instead
of oil, which could not then be had, to burn in lamps in the
boiling houses when making sugar. The Romish priests of this island
use it likewise in their censers at funerals, and other ceremonies
of their church, it having a very aromatic smell when burning;
and it is supposed to contain virtues which might be valuable in
medicines, was it better known.

The timber also of this tree, as well as that of several others
in the woods, makes good shingles for covering of houses, and was
very serviceable for making staves for sugar and coffee casks, at
the time the Americans refused supplying the English colonies with
them. Several fine sloops and schooners have likewise been built of
the timber of this island; and the vessels that have been built of
it are esteemed preferable, both for strength and durability, to
others built of timber imported from North America.

Cabbage trees are in great plenty in Dominica, and are very
serviceable on the plantations, as their trunks sawed, or split,
make good laths or rails for cattle-pens, being very durable: the
branches and leaves are used for thatching of houses; and the
cabbage part of them is excellent eating. These trees are of great
height, have much the appearance of the cocoa-nut tree, and bear a
berry much like a date. The cabbage part is in the top, whence it
is taken after the tree is cut down; and when that part is boiled
it is equally as good, and tastes much like the bottom part of an
artichoke. It also makes a very good pickle, some of which is often
sent to England as presents.

The woods of Dominica abound with wild pigeons, mountain doves,
ring-neck doves, ground doves, partridges, mackaws, parrots, hawks,
diablotins, and a variety of singing and other small birds; among
which is the mountain whistler, the thrush, and wren: from the
singing, whistling, and chirping of which, the woods resound in a
most delightful manner.

The wild pigeon is of the size of the common house pigeon, has a
red bill and legs, and its feathers are of a dark blue, tinged with
a gold colour. They build on the tops of the highest trees, lay
only two eggs at a sitting, but hatch several times in the season,
which is from February to August. Their flesh is of a dark colour,
and is very fat when they are in season, which is after their
breeding time is over, when it has a most delicious flavour, and is
greatly relished.

The mountain dove is also nearly the size of a house pigeon, has
the same red-coloured bill and legs, but its feathers are of a
brown colour. It differs but little from the ring-neck dove, being
only a size larger, and builds its nest on trees in the mountains,
or at the sides of steep precipices, where it makes a pleasing,
loud, plaintive noise. The ring-neck dove builds in coverts in the
woods, as does also the partridge, which is likewise a species of
the dove kind, but from its great resemblance, it is called the
pieddrié by the French. The flesh of the three kinds is much liked,
but has a bitter taste, as has that of most other birds of the
country, owing to the berries they feed on; this taste, though at
first disagreeable, is soon relished by most people, and they are
reckoned very wholesome. The ground dove is not much bigger than a
lark when stripped of its feathers, which are of a brown colour.
It has a red bill and legs, makes a pleasing plaintive noise, and
when killed in season its flesh is very fat, and of a delicious
flavour; for which reason it is generally called the West-India
ortolon.

The mackaw is of the parrot kind, but larger than the common
parrot, and makes a more disagreeable, harsh noise. They are in
great plenty, as are also parrots in this island; have both of them
a delightful green and yellow plumage, with a scarlet-coloured
fleshy substance from the ears to the root of the bill, of which
colour is likewise the chief feathers of their wings and tails.
They breed on the tops of the highest trees, where they feed on the
berries in great numbers together; and are easily discovered by
their loud chattering noise, which at a distance resembles human
voices. The mackaws cannot be taught to articulate words; but the
parrots of this country may, by taking pains with them when caught
young. The flesh of both is eat, but being very fat, it wastes
in roasting, and eats dry and insipid; for which reason, they are
chiefly used to make soup of, which is accounted very nutritive.

The hawks are of two kinds, the one of the largest size of those
species, the other that of the small sort in England. They are both
very ferocious, commit great depredations among the other birds in
the woods, and on the plantations often destroy fowls and house
pigeons.

The diablotin, so called by the French, from its uncommonly ugly
appearance, is nearly the size of a duck, and is web-footed. It
has a big round head, crooked bill like a hawk, and large full
eyes like an owl. Its head, part of the neck, chief feathers of
the wings and tail, are black; the other parts of its body are
covered with a milk-white fine down; and its whole appearance
is perfectly singular. They feed on fish, flying in great flocks
to the sea side in the night-time; and in their flight make a
disagreeable loud noise like owls: which bird they also resemble,
by their dislike of making their appearance in the day-time, when
they are hid in holes in the mountains, where they are easily
caught. This is done by stopping up some of the holes, which lead
to their hiding places, and placing empty bags over the rest, which
communicate under-ground with those stopped: the birds at their
usual time of going forth to seek their food in the night-time,
finding their passage impeded, make to the holes covered with
the bags; into which entering, they are immediately caught; and
great numbers of them taken in that manner in a short time. The
flesh of the diablotin is much admired by the French, who used
formerly to export great quantities of them salted, to Martinique
and other French islands; but the traffic was put a stop to by
the Legislature of Dominica, who, by an Act made for apprehending
runaway negroes, prohibited the taking of those birds: as before
that time, the runaways being numerous in the woods, furnished
great quantities of them, for which they had in return, from some
ill-disposed white people, muskets, powder, and balls; which they
made use of in murdering the English inhabitants on the plantations.

The mountain whistler is of the size of an English lark, and is
remarkable only for its loud charming whistle, which resembles the
human voice in the melodious notes; but which this bird varies in a
most astonishing manner.

The thrush is nearly the size of that in England, and has much
the same kind of whistle. The wren is also of the size and
figure of those in England, and sings delightfully, especially
early in the morning, and in the evening when other birds are at
roost: for which reason it is by some, called the nightingale.
What is remarkable of the singing birds of this country is, that
they lose their singing faculties when taken, pine away and die,
notwithstanding the greatest attention is paid to them.

There are also great numbers of owls in the woods of this island,
and they make a most hideous, disagreeable noise in the night-time.
Swallows and bats are here likewise in great plenty; the latter
breeding in hollow trees and in old houses; but it has not yet
been discovered where the swallows breed, or retire to; yet they
are frequently seen flying in great flocks during the wet season,
and their appearance is reckoned a sure token of approaching rainy
weather.

Dominica is visited in the hurricane months by wild ducks, curlews,
plovers, and snipes; but not in such numbers at a time, as they
are usually seen in some West India islands, owing to there being
very few spots of stagnated water in this island, and to the great
quantity of land in it still covered with woods.

Shortly after the reduction of this island by the French last war,
the Marquis Duchilleau, then Governor, prohibited the killing
of game during the breeding season. This prohibition has since
been made into a law, by the English Legislature of Dominica,
as a circumstance highly necessary; not only to prevent the
runaway negroes from trafficking with that commodity for arms and
ammunition, but also to preserve the game, which would probably
have become extinct, if an unlimitted power of destroying them had
not been restrained.

FOOTNOTES:

[3] In places where these sulphureous mountains are situated,
there is no possibility of preserving articles of silver in their
clean bright order, as they turn black and are not fit for use,
unless cleared from a moisture that adheres to them. This is also
perceptible to persons having money in their pockets, buckles or
buttons on their cloaths made of that metal; which will immediately
on their coming thither turn black, from the powerfully quick
effect of the sulphur on them.




CHAPTER III.

  OF THE RIVERS AND LAKES IN THE ISLAND, RIVER AND FRESH WATER
    FISH, ALSO OF SEA FISH, LAND CRABS, AND A DESCRIPTION OF THE
    NATIVE QUADRUPED, AND OTHER ANIMALS.


Dominica is well watered, there being upwards of thirty fine rivers
in the island, besides great numbers of rivulets of excellent fresh
water, but none of the rivers are navigable; yet, in the rainy
season, they are sometimes very deep and rapid, coming down often
in a frightful manner, carrying away considerable tracks of land,
large trees, huge stones, and sometimes houses, into the sea.

The rivers and rivulets are plentifully stocked with excellent
fish; the principal of which are, mullets, crocroes, pike,
eels, suck-fish, and cray-fish, with which the tables of the
inhabitants, especially those on the plantations, are well
furnished; and much amusement is afforded to good anglers.

The mullet is of the shape of the sea-fish of the same name, and is
often caught in the rivers of half a pound or more in weight; they
are very fat and full of roe when in season, and are a great dainty.

The crocroe is an excellent fresh water fish, much of the shape of
a trout, excepting the head, which in the crocroe is more round.
Of these are caught, at times, some that will weigh from five to
six, and usually from one to two pounds. The mullet and crocroe
are generally caught with the hook and line, but sometimes they
and other river fish are taken in the night-time by negroes, who,
with a lighted torch made of a wood called “Bois chandélle,” which
burns a long time, and which being held over the water, the fish,
attracted by the light, swim towards it on the surface, when they
are chopped with cutlasses, and great quantities sometimes taken in
that manner.

The pike is a rare fish, being found in one or two particular
rivers only: they are sometimes caught of eight or ten pounds in
weight, but they are not much esteemed, being reckoned unwholesome
eating, as are also the different kinds of mud-fish, which are in
great plenty in this island.

The eel is of the silver kind, and is an excellent fish, but are
to be had in no great abundance. Of them are often caught some
that will measure from two to three feet in length, and of a
considerable thickness; when they are much esteemed, being very
fat, and of a delicious flavour.

The suck-fish is small, but a very great dainty, and is remarkable
for having a fleshy substance projecting from its navel, like the
mouth of a purse, which has the faculty of suction, and by which
the fish fastens itself so strongly to the stones in the rivers,
that it is difficult to take them with the hook and line, to which
they are often destructive: for this reason they are mostly caught
with the hands groping among the stones; in which manner these fish
are taken in great plenty by those who are dextrous at that way of
fishing.

The cray-fish are of two kinds, the one approaching the size of
the common lobster, the other that of the prawn. The first is much
admired, but the latter having a rank, muddy taste, is not in much
esteem.

But the chief dainty among the fresh-water fish in Dominica is the
young frey, with which the rivers there are filled twice or thrice
every year, and which are called by the French “Tréz tréz.” These
consist of various kinds of sea-fish just spawned, and with which
that element swarms, for some miles distance from the shore, in
numbers truly astonishing. These little creatures come into the
rivers like a living stream, and in a short time swim two or three
miles to an amazing height up the country. This they perform in
a wonderful manner, skipping over such rapid streams, as repel
their weak endeavours, from rock to rock, the surfaces of which
are covered with them: or, seeking the smoothly gliding stream at
the side of the banks, by degrees ascend the highest parts of the
rivers.

The first day of the appearance of these frey in the rivers
they are transparent and clear as crystal, so that every bone
in them may be counted, and the movement of their vitals can be
plainly discerned. The second day after, they lose much of that
transparency; and the third or fourth day, it is wholly lost by
the nutriment which they feed on. They are caught in baskets, in
which is put a tablecloth or sheet, and sinking the basket with
stones, vast quantities are taken at a time. They are fried in a
batter made of flour and milk, or stewed with herbs and spice. They
are excellent food cooked either way.

Almost in the centre of the island, on the top of a very high
mountain, surrounded by others above it, is a large natural pond,
or rather lake of fresh water, which is also well stocked with fine
fish, and it is said, is in some places unfathomable. It covers a
space of some acres, spreads into three distinct branches, and has
a very wonderful appearance in point of situation: it is about six
miles distant from the town of Roseau, and great part of the road
to it is a steep ascent. On first beholding this lake, a person
becomes, as it were, rivetted for a time to the spot, with silent
awe and admiration, at viewing so vast a body of water collected at
such a height.

Dominica is likewise well supplied with excellent sea-fish; and the
inhabitants have the advantage of procuring their fish almost as
soon as caught, and often buy them alive in the market. Among the
chief of the sea-fish are, groupers, cavallies, snappers, silks,
baracutas, king-fish, Spanish mackrel, jacks, and sprats; the
shell-fish are, lobsters, conks, wilks, and crabs; all which are
so well known, as to render any description of them needless. Some
few turtles are also caught at the windward part of the island; but
this article is mostly brought hither from the Spanish islands.

This island is also remarkable for land-crabs, of which there are
three sorts, white, black, and red. The first are distinguishable
only for their poisonous quality, which they acquire by feeding
on the blossoms and leaves of the mahaut, a tree which gives name
to a part of the island where it grows especially, and of which it
is necessary to give first a description. This tree is of the cork
kind, and grows spontaneously in watery places, or at the sides of
rivers, and renders the water and air near them very unwholesome.
They are about the size in common of the English oak-trees, and
are almost continually in blossom; which is of a sickly yellow
colour, and has much the appearance of the poppy blossom, but is
rather larger. The body, branches, leaves, and blossoms of the
mahaut-tree, contain a milky juice, which is a most subtle poison
to every creature but the crabs who taste it; and to them it gives
the same deadly quality if eaten, as has been fatally experienced
by several persons. Yet notwithstanding their bad qualities, these
trees are very serviceable, as the bark of them stripped off makes
good ropes, nearly as strong as those made of hemp; and the body
and branches make floats for seins, or fishing-nets, equal to any
made of cork, and as durable.

The black crabs are excellent, and safe eating, if caught in places
where the Mahaut tree does not grow; particularly those brought
from a part of the island, called “Souffriér;” where they are to
be had nearly as large as sea crabs, and in great plenty. They are
extremely fat when in season; and the females are full of a rich
glutinous substance, called the eggs, which is perfectly delicious.

The red crabs are as small as the common sort of crabs in England,
but are by far preferable to them; the females being full of the
same rich glutinous substance as the black sort, when in season;
at which time, the red crabs make their appearance in astonishing
numbers: so that it is common for a person on horseback, to
trample them under his horse’s feet; and it is diverting to hear
the rustling they make among the leaves on the ground, to get out
of the way. Of these, and the black sort, is made a favourite dish,
called there, pepper pot; which is made of crabs picked from the
shells, stewed with Indian cale, and pods of Guinea pepper, and eat
with a pudding made of Indian corn flour, or rice; this dish is
esteemed by most of the inhabitants.

Some people have crab pens, or places made like fowl coops, for
the purpose of keeping them alive, for some time after they are
caught; feeding them with potatoe vines, Indian corn, herbage and
water. This method is certainly the best to prevent the danger to
be apprehended from eating them; as, notwithstanding the greatest
caution in procuring them from particular places only, they have
proved fatal, by being imprudently eaten as soon as they were
caught.

The land crabs are particularly destructive to sugar plantations,
when they are numerous, as they are on some estates near the sea;
eating off the buds of the newly planted canes, of which they are
very fond; as they are also of the Indian corn just sprouted, of
which they devour both blade and root. For this there is no remedy,
but immediately replanting and catching as many of them as you can;
for to attempt to stop up their holes, which are numerous, as those
of the mole; or to poison them, would be vain.

There are no quadrupeds, natives of Dominica, except the Indian
coney, which is nearly the size of a rabbit when full grown. This
animal is very singular; its head, ears, eyes, nose, mouth, and
teeth, being exactly like those of a rat; and its body and legs
like those of a hog; the latter in particular, being hoofed like
that animal. It has only a stump of a tail, which appears as if it
was cut, but it is naturally so; and it is covered with long brown
hair like hog’s bristles, which it erects in the same manner when
angry. It springs on its hind legs like a rabbit, and runs with
great speed when pursued, making a noise like a Guinea pig.

These animals do much mischief among the ground provisions; which
they root up in great abundance; feeding in herds, in the mornings
and evenings, and are difficult to be shot, but are easily taken
by dogs, or traps. Their flesh is not much admired for eating, it
being dry, and in general rank; but to get rid of this taste, those
who are fond of eating them, bury the dead animal in the ground for
two or three hours previous to cooking it, which takes it off. They
are sometimes kept alive as curiosities, and are soon tamed; but
their urine is very offensive.

There were formerly wild goats and hogs in the woods of this
country; but they became so by being let free on the plantations.
There are, however, very few, if any, at present, having been
mostly, if not entirely, destroyed by the runaway negroes. The wild
hogs were very dangerous when attacked, but their flesh delicious,
owing to the vast quantity and goodness of the wild yams, and other
provisions, on which they lived, and which grow spontaneously in
the woods.

The several species of four-footed animals which breed in Dominica
are, horses, horned cattle, sheep, hogs, goats, rabbits, and Guinea
pigs. The poultry are, geese, ducks, turkies, dunghill fowls,
Guinea fowls, and house pigeons.

There are but few horses bred here; and they are no way remarkable,
either for strength, beauty, or spirit; but are rather small and
unsightly. This proceeds entirely from the want of good breeding
mares and stallions, with proper persons competent in the knowledge
of breeding and taking care of those useful animals; as the horses
brought from England, America, and the other islands, thrive
extremely well here.

The present pastures in this island are by no means extensive,
although very good for cattle; consequently, there are but few
of them. But those that are bred here are as strong, breed as
well, and are as fine looking creatures, as in any part of the
West-Indies.

Nor are sheep or goats in any great numbers in Dominica; but those
of both species breed as well here as in any other island: and
when killed for market, their flesh is tender, fat, and juicy,
equalling in flavour that of venison. What is remarkable of the
sheep in particular, is, that they retain their wool in this island
much longer than in most other parts of the West Indies, where
they shed their fleecy coats very soon after being brought to that
climate, which causes them to change into fine long hair, as in
goats.

Hogs are in tolerable plenty in the island, and may be raised in
great abundance, the country being very favourable for breeding
them, as it affords plenty of proper provisions. Their flesh is
very white, firm, and fat, and of a delicious flavour, especially
those raised on the plantations; but in the towns, where the hogs
are suffered to go at large, and fed on any filth that falls in
their way, their flesh is not so good.

Rabbits, Guinea pigs, and the different species of poultry, breed
extremely well in Dominica, and are in as great perfection there as
in any other part of the world.




CHAPTER IV.

  OF THE MOST REMARKABLE REPTILES AND INSECTS OF THE ISLAND, THEIR
    VENOMOUS AND OTHER QUALITIES, WITH REMARKS.


The principal and most remarkable of the reptiles and insects in
Dominica are, snakes, lizards, wood-slaves, guanas, frogs, grugru
worms, borer worms, centipédes, scorpions, spiders, sawyer flies,
blacksmith flies, loggerhead flies, Spaniard flies, freemason
flies, the wood-horse, and vegetable flies.

Some of the snakes are small, and others very large and thick. Of
the last sort is that called by the French, “Tête du chien,” or
Dog’s-head snake, from its head, which much resembles that of a
dog. Some have been caught in this island that measured upwards
of twelve feet in length, and as thick as a man’s leg. They have
long, sharp teeth; their skins are scaled and beautifully spotted,
and they have at the end of their tails a blunt-pointed, horny
substance, which enables them to climb the trees.

The bite of these shakes is not venomous, nor is that of any
kind of them in this island; but the tête du chien does much
mischief among the birds in the woods; and on the plantations they
frequently devour the fowls and other poultry. They will swallow a
full-grown fowl with its feathers; and several of them have been
killed there with both a large fowl and an Indian coney entire in
their bowels.

A remarkable circumstance, which happened in this island some time
ago, deserves to be noticed in this place. A negro retiring from
work one day at noon, instead of going home to get his dinner, fell
asleep under a shady tree; and being missing at the time the other
negroes assembled together to finish their daily task, it caused
a suspicion that some accident had befallen him; they accordingly
went in search of him, and found him asleep, with one of his
legs, up to the thick part of his thigh, in the jaws of a large
snake. Awakened by their noise, he was in the greatest terror, and
struggling to get disengaged, was severely bit by the animal; to
prevent this as much as possible, wedges were placed between its
jaws, whilst they cut it to pieces; by which means only he could be
released. This operation took up some time, which together with the
length of time, his leg and thigh had already been in the belly and
jaws of the snake, reduced them almost to a state of digestion; and
it was not till a considerable while after, that he recovered the
intire use of them.

The fat of these snakes is esteemed an excellent remedy for the
rheumatism, or for sprains, by rubbing it mixed with strong rum.
Their flesh is eaten by many, particularly by the French, some of
whom are very fond of it; but it is reckoned unwholesome, and to
occasion the leprosy.

The skins of the tête du chien snakes are excellent for covering
sword-sheaths, or other instrument cases, for which purpose they
are in general used; but some surgeons make use of them in medicine.

Lizards are very numerous in this island, and are of several kinds;
some of a green, others of a yellow, and some beautifully spotted
with both colours. They are very harmless, feed on flies, worms,
and other small insects, which render them very serviceable on
the plantations. The ground lizard, one of the largest of that
species, and of a black colour, has lately been discovered to be an
excellent remedy for the leprosy, when made into broth.

The wood-slave is a species of the lizard kind, but of a more
hideous figure, and is reckoned to be venomous. Its head is shaped
like a dog’s, its body is scaled and spotted like a toad’s, it has
four legs, which are claw-footed, and on each toe a sharp, crooked
nail, like a bird’s; it lashes with its tail, which drops from
its body on the slightest touch; and its whole appearance is very
disgusting.

They are commonly not more than three or four inches in length,
but some are rather larger. Some say, that they fix their nails
so fast in the flesh of those on whom they chance to fall, as not
to be removed without cutting them out: others recommend throwing
dry sand on the part, which disengages their nails, when they are
easily shaken off. However, I never knew any injury happen from the
wood-slave; I have had them drop on my cloaths from the cielings of
rooms, where they are usually to be seen in the evening, in search
of food. They are great enemies to spiders and cock-roaches, and
they make a noise which somewhat resembles the cackling of a hen.

The guana is shaped like a crocodile, its head, body, feet, and
tail, resembling those of that animal. It is of a green colour, but
can change it at pleasure to a light ash colour, as it always does
when alarmed. It has gills like a cock, but of a pale colour, and a
horny substance, like the comb of that bird, reaching from its nose
to the neck. It has strong sharp teeth, shaped like a lancet, with
which it bites severely; its tail is also armed with strong, blunt
points, with which it wounds the legs of those who take it, if they
are not careful, as it lashes strongly with its tail, which is very
supple, and nearly twice as long as the other part of its body.

This animal is commonly between two and three feet long, from the
tip of the nose to the end of the tail; and when of that length,
about four or five inches thick, especially the females, about the
belly, when breeding; at which time they are full of eggs.

The flesh of the guana is excellent eating, and is cooked in the
same manner as turtle, to which it is by many preferred; their
eggs are also reckoned a great dainty. They are caught by a very
curious method: by whistling, which lulls them asleep, when with a
strong vine, or string, fastened at the end of a long stick in a
slip knot, which is pulled gently over its head, and when a sudden
jirk is given with the stick the animal is secured. They are very
harmless, shy, and difficult to come near; and a person bit by
them, or wounded with their tails, is under no apprehensions of
danger from either.

The frogs, called by the French “Crapaux,” are very numerous
in Dominica, and are an article of food to both the French and
English, many of whom prefer the crapaux to chickens. They make
fricassees, and soup of them, and the latter is recommended to sick
people, especially in consumptive cases.

The method of catching the crapaux is somewhat singular, it being
done by means of lighted torches in the night-time, when they
are out in search of food. This method is also used to catch the
land-crabs, which, as well as the frogs, from some deficiency in
their eye-sight, are unable to resist the light of a burning flame;
or it so fascinates them, that they have not the power to stir from
the spot; but stupified by its rays, they become an easy prey.

The grugru-worm is a species of the grub-worm, but is much larger
than the common sort, and breeds in the trunks of decayed cabbage
and cocoa-nut trees. These worms are eat by many people, who esteem
them a great dainty, and eat them roasted, with a strong sauce made
of lime-juice, salt, and Guinea pepper. They are like marrow, when
cooked; but their head gives them an appearance not very inviting,
the first time they are eaten; yet that disgust is soon overcome,
by their exceeding rich flavour, which those who are fond of them
say, exceeds any yet tasted.

The borer-worm is also a species of the grub-worm, and is a most
destructive reptile, especially to the sugar-cane, to which its
ravages are principally confined. This worm is commonly about an
inch in length, and of the thickness of a large caterpillar; it
is produced from the egg of a kind of butterfly, or moth, and was
first discovered in this island about ten years ago.

Its mouth has two strong, sharp teeth, in shape like a hog’s tusks,
with which it bites severely, and with such smartness, that putting
the blade of a knife between them, it will champ the blade, so as
to be distinctly heard, and will keep it so fast, as to make it
difficult to take it away. With its teeth it penetrates the buds
on the joints of the cane, working its way into the inside, where
it devours the whole substance, rendering the joint like a tube:
after which, it works into another joint, which it consumes in like
manner; and continuing its progress, at length destroys the whole
cane.

The devastation which these worms make in a field of canes in a
short time is astonishing; and although several methods have been
tried to destroy them, yet none have been successful. If care was
taken when the canes were young, on the first appearance of the
borer among them, to rub their stems and leaves with a preparation
of lime-water, or salt brine, mixed with soot and mashed pods of
Guinea pepper, perhaps they might be destroyed; as by sprinkling
some of this mixture on those worms it will instantly kill them.

Ants are great enemies to the borer when they can get at them, but
they are much prevented by its excrement, which being like filings
of wood, and of a gluey consistence, usually fills up and secures
their holes from the entrance of the ants. Yet having myself
removed that impediment, by clearing away the dung, and putting a
few ants to the hole, on going to the place some time after, I have
seen them collected in great numbers, all busily employed carrying
away in their mouths pieces of the borer, whom they had ferretted
out of its hole and killed.

Centipedes, called by the English “Forty legs,” and scorpions,
are numerous in this island, especially in the woods, and in
old houses. Of the former are often seen some that will measure
eight or nine inches in length, and thick in proportion; but the
generality of them do not exceed three inches long. They are very
harmless, except when meddled with; neither then is their bite, or
the sting of the scorpion of this country, so dangerous, as in many
other West India islands.

They are caught and put into strong rum; and if the part bit or
stung be rubbed with it, the pain is soon allayed, though the sting
of the scorpion is at first exquisite, and hardly to be endured
with temper.

Spiders are also here in great plenty, and of various kinds, some
of them being much larger than any in England, their bodies are
covered with a fine down like hair, and their mouths are armed with
strong, sharp teeth, or forceps, with which they wound severely,
but their bite is not venomous. Others are very small, and
beautifully spotted with a variety of the most lively colours; and
some have eyes in different parts of their bodies, but they are all
harmless.

The sawyer fly, so called from its faculty of sawing asunder the
branches of trees, whose substance is its food, is about three
inches in length when full grown, and is a very singular insect.
Its head has somewhat the appearance of that of an elephant, it
having a horny bill, like the proboscis of that animal, bending
upwards from the under part, with another, pointing downwards from
the upper part of its head, both of a jet black, and of a fine
polish. On the inner surface of the upper bill are raised points,
like the teeth of a saw, which are used by the insect in the same
manner. Its body is like that of a beetle, but considerably larger,
with double wings, the inner of which is like coarse gauze; and its
legs are armed at each joint with crooked, sharp nails, with the
same on each toe, like a bird.

The process of this insect in sawing down branches of trees is
really admirable, but it is hardly possible to form an idea of the
manner of doing it without a description. This work it performs
by encircling the branch with its bills, the points of which it
fastens well into the wood, and turning round it briskly by the
strength of its wings, which make a loud buzzing noise, it in
a short time saws the branch asunder. They are by many called
elephant flies, from the great resemblance of their heads to that
animal; they are perfectly harmless, and are caught only to be kept
as curiosities.

The blacksmith fly, is so called from its making a noise resembling
in sound the striking on iron. In the centre of its back is a
projecting horny point, and a crevice of the same nature on the
hind part of the head, near the shoulders, which being struck
together by a jerk of the head and body, make a tinkling noise,
that may be heard at a considerable distance; and so elastic is
the membrane which joins the head and body together, that, if the
insect is laid on its back, it will spring to a tolerable height
upwards, and fall directly on its legs. It differs very little from
the beetle in shape or size, excepting in its elastic powers, and
making so singular a noise.

The fire fly is a wonderful insect, for it has a luminous quality
in its head (above the eyes) under each wing, and in its tail;
which, when the insect is flying, has the appearance of so many
lights of candles moving in the air: or, the lights of a coach or
post-chaise in a dark night, travelling towards you at a brisk rate.

Some of these flies are as big as the top-joint of a man’s thumb,
others are much smaller; and the latter have that luminous quality
only in their tails. They have a charming effect on the eye at
night in the groves of the woods, where they are seen flying in all
directions, like so many thousand sparkles of fire; forming one
of the grandest spectacles of the kind that can be conceived, in
Dominica’s woods “that nightly shine with insect lamps.”

The larger sort are often caught for the novelty of the light they
give; if two or three of them are put into a glass, placed in a
dark room, you may see distinctly any object there; or by holding a
book close to the glass in which they are, you may see plainly to
read the smallest print.

There is another quality remarkable in the fire flies, which is,
that several of them being killed and mashed together will produce
the same effect, and be as visible in letters marked out on the
walls of a dark room, as if done with artificial phosphorus; and
this for a considerable time after the flies are dead.

The loggerhead fly is a species of the moth, from which it differs
only in the uncommon largeness of its head, and a singular quality
of transparency in its body; which latter is very remarkable, for
placing this fly near to the light of a candle, you may plainly
distinguish every part of its vitals, and distinctly count every
movement of them.

The Spaniard fly and free-mason fly are both of the wasp kind,
but they differ from each other in size, shape, and also in the
substance and curious manner of making their nests. The first is of
the shape of a small bee, and builds its nest of a waxy matter, in
the form of a small flat button full of holes, which it suspends
by a silky ligament to the cielings of houses, or to the boughs of
trees, where it has the benefit of the wind to vibrate to and fro.

The free-mason fly is exactly of the shape, size, and colour of a
wasp, and builds its nest of mud, in the shape of organ barrels. It
is curious to see these little creatures at work, they shew so much
art and industry, some of them fetching the mud in their mouths,
while others are forming their small cones, or filling them up when
finished with numbers of various-coloured small spiders, which they
also bring in their mouths, for food to their young when hatched.
That which is further remarkable of these flies is, that it appears
they qualify the spiders, by some means, for remaining a long time
in as perfect a state as the first day they were immured in their
cells; I have seen spiders, so immured for several weeks, as whole
and perfect in size, shape, and colour, as when alive.

There is another species of these flies, called galley wasps,
which is double the size and of a bright light-blue colour. These
have very long stings, which are plainly to be seen when they are
flying, with which they wound very severely, causing the blood to
spout out, as from the prick of a lancet.

The sting of these flies is very painful, and persons have been
thrown into fevers by being stung severely by them; but they are
seldom offensive, unless disturbed.

The wood-horse, called by the negroes the fairy-horse, is a very
singular insect. Its head is like that of a grasshopper, it
has two horns, considerably longer than its own body, which is
about three inches, and of one continued thickness, like a large
caterpillar. It has six legs, which are raised and doubled above
its body, like the springing legs of a grasshopper, but they have
not the same power, serving it only to walk with, which it does
very fast. It has no wings, is of a deep green colour, and is
perfectly harmless.

The vegetable fly is a remarkable insect. It is of the appearance
and size of a small cockchafer, and buries itself in the ground,
where it dies, and from its body springs up a small plant, which
resembles a coffee-tree plant, only its leaves are much smaller.
The plant which springs from this insect is often overlooked,
from the supposition people have of its being no other than a
coffee plant; but on examining it properly, the difference is
easily distinguished, from the head, body, and feet of the insect
appearing at the root, as perfect as when alive.

In the woods of Dominica are vast swarms of bees, which hive in the
trees, and produce great quantities of wax and honey; both of which
are equal in goodness to any of those articles to be had in Europe.

The musquitoes and sand flies are not so numerous, or so
troublesome in this country, as they are in most parts of the West
Indies, owing to there being but few spots of stagnated water,
which breeds them.

The musquito is a species of the gnat kind, but rather smaller than
the common gnat in England. The sand fly is not much larger than
the head of a large pin, but is a very tormenting little insect in
some islands, particularly to persons newly arrived from Europe.

Ants are very numerous in Dominica, and are of several sorts; as
the large black ant, the brown ant, the red ant, the flying ant,
and the wood ant. The latter is the most troublesome, as they are
very destructive to trees, and the timber in houses; which they
will reduce to dust in a short time, if suffered to take up their
abode therein. The best method to prevent this is, to rub the
timber with tar or turpentine, which hinders their attacking it,
or, if already there, to sprinkle arsenic in their nests, which
kills them.

The other sorts of ants are injurious only to particular articles,
as new sown seed, the buds and fruit of trees, especially in dry
seasons, when sometimes they cover the ground in such numbers, as
is truly astonishing.




CHAPTER V.

  AN ACCOUNT OF THE DIFFERENT ARTICLES OF WEST INDIA PRODUCE,
    RAISED IN THE ISLAND; THE NUMBER OF SUGAR AND COFFEE
    PLANTATIONS THEREIN, WITH REMARKS.


The several articles of West India produce raised in Dominica for
commerce are, sugar, rum, coffee, cocoa, and indigo.

There are not more than fifty sugar plantations at present in
this island, above thirty estates of that description having been
abandoned, owing to several causes; and among others, to the
imprudence and mismanagement of some of the first proprietors of
them; and to the great disadvantages this island laboured under,
while it was in the possession of the French last war.

It was a great misfortune, that on the first settlement of this
country by the English, so great a rage prevailed in the new
settlers for having extensive estates, as many of them were no
ways qualified for the laborious task of establishing a valuable
property, by clearing the woods, and proceeding, not only to
superintend, but to get forward by degrees, with industry and
œconomy.

They flattered themselves, that without all this, in the course
of a few years, their fortunes would be made, as they had very
large estates; but they did not consider the consequences of
borrowing money at eight per cent. which was allowed in Dominica
at that time.--The forming new estates with new negroes, instead
of seasoned ones, at a time when that climate was, from the
quantity of its wood, so unsettled, that it rained best part of the
year.--The extra labour of making roads, and carrying materials
for building, which took up at least eighteen months, before
any produce could be planted.--Whilst in several instances, some
of them spent the money, which was intended to forward their
plantations, in unnecessary buildings; or in an unwarrantable
luxury of living.

Others, from an unpardonable greediness, purchased, in the names
of their acquaintances or families, several lots of land, each
containing the number of acres limited in the grants; by which
means, persons who would have been more fit settlers, were deprived
of them; and large quantities of land thus purchased, are now in
the same state (in woods) as they were, when first sold at the
Commissioners sales nearly thirty years ago.

Another material cause, to which the reduction of sugar plantations
in this island may be attributed, is, that several of the first
English settlers, from a want of knowledge in the choice of
lands, proper for the immediate cultivation of the sugar-cane,
had chosen such places in the interior parts of the country, as
were on the tops of high mountains, or surrounded by vast woods;
which affording too much shelter from the sun, and being subject
to too frequent great rains, chilled the canes, rendering their
juice unfit for making sugar. Not but that, was the whole of the
cultivable lands there to be cleared of their woods, there are few
situations, even in the most interior parts, but would be proper
for the growth of that article.

By this imprudent conduct of such of the new settlers, after they
had spent considerable sums of money, which they had borrowed on
the credit of their plantations so situated, and having lost a
number of negroes and cattle by the dampness of the climate in
those places, together with the difficult and laborious roads to
them, they were at length driven to the necessity of abandoning
their possessions to the mortgagees in Europe.

These latter, it is presumed, having taken an unfavourable opinion
of the mortgaged premises, from having been sufferers already
in the loss of considerable sums they had lent on them; and not
knowing, or not considering the value of such property at a future
period, are unwilling to advance more; at least the majority of
the mortgagees seem to be disposed to let their lands remain in
the same neglected, abandoned situation they have been in these
several years past, to the great hindrance of the prosperity of
that valuable island, as well as their own detriment.

It is computed, that on an average, one year with another, there
are not more than three thousand hogsheads of sugar made annually
in Dominica. This is certainly a very small quantity of that
article for such an extensive island, or even for the number of
plantations in it, at present under cultivation: for, supposing
these fifty estates contained only two thousand acres of land in
canes, which is a very small calculation, as several single estates
have upwards of one hundred acres, and few less than sixty: this is
at the rate only of a hogshead and a half per acre.

In the English old settled islands, three hogsheads of sugar
for every acre in canes, on an average, is considered as a very
moderate produce; for, after good seasonable weather previous
to the crop, some lands have been known to yield from four to
five hogsheads per acre. From the great disproportion in point
of yielding, between the lands of other islands and those of
Dominica, the superior fertility of the former may be inferred;
which, however, is by no means the case: for the lands of the old
islands, from having been a considerable number of years under
cultivation, are so much worn out, as to require great attention
to make them bear the culture of the sugar-cane. And the Planters
there are obliged to let the land lie a year or two fallow
occasionally, or only plant such vegetables as yams and potatoes,
the roots of which open and enrich the soil; beside, it must be
well dunged previous to planting.

Again, no more than one-half in some plantations, in others only
one-third part of the land is yearly planted with canes; the other
part being prepared for growing rattoons, turned into pasture for
cattle, or given to the negroes for gardens, in order to improve
and render it fit for the canes. The rattoons, it is necessary to
acquaint the readers, who may probably not know the sugar-cane, are
second canes, which spring from the roots of plant canes, after
they have been cut down and made sugar of; which the rattoons
produce in like manner, but generally not in an equal quantity with
the other. Of these, the lands of the old islands will bear but one
crop, in Dominica they will rattoon four or five years running, and
the last year’s yielding of sugar will be as great as the first.

The sugar estates in the old islands have generally a number of
barren spots in them, called “Yellow spots;” the sterility of
which no art can overcome so as to make them bear canes to any
perfection; for though they will spring up, yet they soon change
from a green to a yellow colour, and rot in the ground. And,
moreover, the old islands are frequently subject to long and severe
droughts, which never happen in Dominica; and there is every reason
to suppose they never will, from the great number and heighth of
its mountains, together with the vast quantity of woods, which it
will be next to impossible ever to clear away in some parts of the
island.

The land of Dominica is quite new, very little of it having been
more than thirty years under cultivation, and a great part of it,
it is probable, never since the creation; the soil thereof produces
vegetation so quick, that it is truly amazing; and this vigour is
particularly conspicuous in the sugar-cane, for it has been seen
there of the length of sixteen feet and upwards, and double the
thickness that it in general attain in other islands.

The lands on the sea-coast have abundantly the advantage of the
interior country, for forming sugar estates; but then, they are
contiguous to, or are overtopped by vast woods, and have not the
benefit of an uninterrupted, warm air, which is necessary for the
growth of canes to any perfection. Besides, the damps from the
woods near them, rising in heavy fogs, has a bad effect on canes;
and though the lands on the sea-coast all lie on a declivity,
yet the under stratum of the soil being either a stiff clay, or
strong terrace, so much water is retained from the frequent rains,
occasioned by the woods, as to chill the soil.

These considerations seem to point out the necessity, in order to
render Dominica a good sugar country, of clearing the extensive
forests of trees in the interior parts of it. When this is done,
and not till then, will this island be distinguished for the number
of its sugar plantations, and for the quantity of sugar it is
absolutely capable of raising.

There are above two hundred coffee plantations in Dominica; but the
principal and most productive of them belong to French proprietors,
who raise great quantities of coffee, which they dispose of to the
English merchants, who export it to Europe. There are, however,
several valuable estates of that description belonging to the
English inhabitants of it; and the coffee produced in this island
is esteemed superior to that of most others in the West Indies.

It is computed, that, one year with another, there are between four
and five millions of pounds weight of that article produced, and
exported annually from this island to Great Britain, where it sells
from 4l. 15s. to 5l. 5s, per hundred weight.

The cultivation of cocoa is not much attended to by the English
planters; and the small quantity which is exported, is chiefly
raised on the plantations of the French inhabitants.

Indigo is manufactured on only two or three English estates in the
island; but they have lately very much neglected that article,
owing to too frequent rains, occasioned by the extensive woods.

Cotton trees thrive extremely well in the land on the sea-coasts
of Dominica, but the cultivation of them is, at present, wholly
neglected; as is also that of ginger. The latter having been
formerly planted in estates that are now abandoned, it grows there
spontaneously, and in great luxuriance.

The cassia-fistula, and castor-oil nut trees, are both raised on
some plantations, but very little of the produce of either is
exported. The cassia-fistula was considered by the French as so
valuable an article, that soon after they were in possession of
Dominica last war, an ordinance of the French King was proclaimed
in Roseau, for every-planter in the country to give in an account
of the number of cassia-fistula trees he had growing on his estate.

Tobacco grows in great perfection, but it is only cultivated by the
negroes, who raise it in their gardens for their own use.

Dominica is, beyond dispute, the most valuable island belonging to
Great Britain in that part of the world, for the vast quantities
and excellency of the farinaceous fruits and roots of the West
Indies; such as plantains, bananas, manioc, or cassada, yams, sweet
potatoes, cushcushes, tanias, eddoes, &c. &c. some of which are not
to be found in the other islands, but which grow spontaneously in
the woods of this. Among these are, the wild yams, which grow there
in great abundance, and were the chief food of the runaway negroes
for a number of years, till it became necessary to reduce them.

Also Guinea corn, Indian corn, and rice, grow extremely well in
Dominica; the latter especially, which being introduced there
by the American refugees, flourishes in the moist, flat lands,
and yields in great perfection. The large plantations there of
plantains and bananas, exceed any thing of the kind in the old
islands; the inhabitants of which are often obliged to have
recourse to this country for a supply of those fruits.




CHAPTER VI.

  NAMES AND DESCRIPTIONS OF PARTICULAR WEST INDIA FRUITS WHICH GROW
    IN THE ISLAND; ALSO OF EUROPEAN AND AMERICAN FRUITS, HERBS,
    VEGETABLES, AND FLOWERS; WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THEIR PROPERTIES,
    &c.


The island of Dominica produces every species of fruit peculiar
to the West Indies; all which grow there in great perfection. The
principal are, oranges, lemons, limes, citrons, shaddocks, water
lemons, granadillas, sappadillas, pomegranates, alligator pears,
mountain pears, pine apples, rose apples, star apples, sugar
apples, custard apples, mamma apples, guavas, sea-side grapes,
cocoa nuts, conk nuts, soursops, papaws, cashew apples, and
tamerinds.

The oranges in this island are of three sorts, the China orange,
the bergamot, and the Seville orange. The first sort is far
superior, in flavour and sweetness, to any fruit of the kind to
be had in England; the bergamot orange is small, but it is a most
delicious fruit; and the Seville orange is very serviceable. The
blossoms of their trees have a delighting fragrant smell, which is
to be scented at a great distance; and the fruit, when ripe and
full on them, has a very pleasing appearance.

The lemon and lime trees bear also very aromatic, scenting
blossoms; and the fruit of both is in great abundance, large, and
of an excellent quality. Of these, the latter especially, great
quantities are often sent in barrels to England and America; the
neighbouring English islands are likewise often supplied with them
from this country, especially those of Antigua and Barbadoes.

The citrons are large, but are chiefly valuable for their rinds, as
with them are made the best kind of sweetmeats.

The shaddocks are of two sorts, the one white in the inside, the
other red; they are a large fruit, some of them being as big as a
good sized musk-melon; but the red sort of them is most admired.
The juice is contained in separate divisions of a thin, skin-like
substance, as transparent as diamonds, and which have much the
look of them, finely squared and polished. It has a sweet taste,
tinctured with a bitter, and when the fruit is ripe is very
agreeable, and reckoned a good addition to a glass of Madeira wine
after dinner. The rinds of them also make good sweetmeats.

The water lemon is a fine fruit, of the shape and size of a
dunghill fowl’s egg. The rind of it is of a bright yellow colour,
the inside is full of small, flat seeds, covered with a juicy
pulp, which has a very agreeable, musky taste. It grows on a vine,
which bears a very beautiful blossom, very much resembling the
passion flower; and the vine is much admired, because it affords
the most delightful shade when turned over an arbour.

The granadilla is rather larger than the largest sized Lisbon
lemon, and is an excellent fruit. It also grows on a vine, which
bears a delightful sky-blue and yellow blossom, very fragrant,
and of the same appearance as that of the water lemon, but much
larger. The rind of the fruit is also of a yellow colour, but not
so bright as the other; and the inside is full of seeds covered
with a juicy pulp, but not of so musky a taste. The granadilla is
much recommended to people in fevers, its juice being very cooling.
The rind of it mixed with a little lime-juice, makes an excellent
tart, nearly equal to those made with English apples; and so very
refreshing is the scent of these fruits, that many people suffer
them to decay on their side-boards, for the sake of their agreeable
smell.

The sappadilla is of the size and make of a bergamot pear, its
juice is of a gluey nature, and of a sweet taste. The tree which
bears it resembles a pear-tree, and its timber is very serviceable
for mills, or to make cartwheels of.

The pomegranates in Dominica are not so large as those brought
to England from other countries; but they are fleshy, sweet, and
good, when thoroughly ripe. They bear a delightful scarlet-coloured
blossom, which, in size and make, is very like the flowers called
blue-bottles; and the skin, or shell of the fruit, being boiled
into a decoction, is given to persons afflicted with the flux.

The alligator pear is of the shape of an English bell pear, but
is much larger. There are two sorts of this fruit, the one of a
purple-coloured rind, the other of a pale green: the latter is
the largest, and most esteemed. They are excellent fruit, and are
greedily eaten by all kinds of animals; for even horses, who are
in general not fond of fruit, will eagerly eat them. This is the
fruit which is called in the West Indies “Vegetable marrow,” from
its rich melting taste, and it is justly reckoned the best and most
wholesome fruit of the country.

Some people eat them with salt and black pepper, others with
lime-juice and syrup, and some without either; but the generality
of the French eat them with fish or flesh, with which they are
very relishing. The seed of the alligator pear, which is nearly
one-third part of the fruit, and shakes within it when ripe, has
the appearance of the inside part of a horse-chesnut, and has a
very firm colour; for which reason it is commonly used to mark
linen with. This is done, by covering the seed with the cloth,
and pricking out the letters with a pin; the juice filling up the
punctures, stains the form of the letters so durably, that they are
not to be washed out, only decaying with the cloth.

The mountain pear is found growing only on barren heights, or on
the sides of steep precipices; it grows on a tall, fluted-like
stalk, that has the appearance of a well-wrought, fluted, slender
pillar, full of strong, sharp prickles. The fruit is of the size
of a pippin, its skin is of a beautiful crimson colour; when this
pear is cut open, it presents an innumerable quantity of fine black
seeds, which are covered with a juicy pulp of the same colour as
the skin, its taste is much like that of a strawberry; by which
name the fruit is sometimes called.

Pine apples grow in Dominica to a great size, and are in general
very juicy, but they are not so good as in most other islands,
owing to the too great moisture of the ground, which makes them
grow too luxuriant and watry. Pine apples sliced, covered with
brown sugar, and left some time to drain out their juice, make an
excellent drink, after being strained, and set by for a time in
bottles.

The rose apple is chiefly esteemed for its fine scent, which
resembles that of the flower after which it is called. It is,
however, eat by many, but is reckoned unwholesome; being put up
with linen, it gives it an agreeable scent, equal to that of
lavender.

The star apple, so called from the blossoms of the tree which bears
it, resembling a star, is a fine fruit, of the size and shape of a
large plumb, of a purple colour; and its juice is of an agreeably
sweet taste, and of a gluey nature.

The sugar apple is a singular fruit, about the size of a
middling-sized English apple, but in appearance differs from any
fruit of that name, as it does also in quality. The rind of it is
crossed in divisions, the shape of diamonds in a card, which are
considerably raised above the furrows between each, and stand in
regular rows. The outside is of a pale green colour, the inside
has a great number of hard, black seeds, which are nearly as big
as peas, and are covered with a moist, gritty pulp, which has the
taste of sugar; and it is reckoned very wholesome.

The custard apple is of much the same nature with the former, only
the skin of it is smooth, of a rust colour, and the inside pulp
less gritty, resembling in taste a custard, after which it is
called.

The mamma apple is a large fruit, of the size in general of a
middling-sized musk melon, but some are much smaller. The rind of
it is thick, strong, and has the appearance of leather; the inside
has three large nuts, or kernels, which are covered with a thick
substance, of the colour of a carrot, very juicy, and in taste much
resembling that of a peach. It is a delicious fruit when ripe, but
is reckoned to be unwholesome, from its indigestive quality, yet
they make tarts of it. The timber of the tree which bears the mamma
apple is a very beautiful wood, durable, and is used for furniture.

Guavas are of three sorts, the white, the red, and the yellow
guava; the first is the largest and most esteemed, but they are all
very good. The white sort grows in general as large as a good-sized
apple, the red rather smaller, and the yellow about the size of a
golden pippin, which they also much resemble. The outside of these
fruits is much like that of an apple, especially when half ripe,
when they are used to make puddings or tarts of, which they make
equal to an English apple, and are by many preferred. The inside of
them is full of small, hard, and indigestible seeds, that are taken
out when prepared for pastry, or for jelly; which latter they make
in great perfection, and exceeding any thing of the kind.

The guava tree is of the shrub kind, but some of them grow
tolerably large and lofty, especially those which bear the white
guavas. Their timber and branches are very serviceable; and being
durable, and of a supple nature, are used for making bows for
cattle yokes, knees for canoes, or boats, baskets, &c. These trees
have a singular property in them, as they are to be seen bearing
ripe fruit, fruit just left by the blossoms, and blossoms in full
bloom, all growing on the same branch. The blossoms close during
the night, but being touched with the hand, or receiving the
heat of the sun in the morning, they expand, diffusing the most
delightful, fragrant scent.

The sea-side grapes are of the size of other grapes, but are the
produce of a large spreading tree, which bears them in small
clusters. They have only one seed, which is nearly as large as the
fruit, by which it is covered very thinly; have a very agreeable
taste, but are of an astringent nature.

The cocoa nut is so well known, as to need no description; but they
are not in such great plenty in Dominica, as in many other islands,
owing to the little pains taken to plant them.

The conk nut is rather larger than a walnut, but grows from a vine,
the blossoms of which are much like those of the water lemon. It
has a thick, strong shell, full of seeds, like the water lemon,
but the juice of it is not so sweet.

The soursop is a fine fruit, large, and much of the shape of an
heart. When unripe, it is of a brown colour, and its skin is
covered with raised points like prickles, but they are not sharp.
When ripe, it is of a fine green colour, the points fall off, and
the skin is quite smooth. It is a very wholesome fruit, in taste
resembling fine cotton dipped in syrup, with a little tincture of
acid, of a very agreeable musky flavour, and much recommended in
fevers.

The fruit and the leaves of the soursop have a very singular
quality in them, for the fruit will rot on the ground without the
least visible appearance of worms, although most animals and birds
are very fond of it; and the leaves being scattered in a room
infested with fleas, soon clears it of those troublesome guests,
by the strength of the smell of the leaves, which, however, is
very pleasant.

The papaw apples grow in clusters on stalks, but each of them,
when full-grown, is larger than the largest-sized English apple,
some nearly as large as a good-sized musk melon, and have nearly
the same look. When half-ripe, they are used as a vegetable, and
boiled, are a good substitute for turnips; when full-ripe, they are
a great antidote to worms, and are recommended to persons afflicted
with them: the seeds of the apple especially, which have a hot
quality, like pepper, are reckoned good in that disorder.

The blossoms of the papaw tree are of a beautiful white and yellow
colour, have a very odoriferous scent, and with the stalks are made
pickles and preserves of. The juice of the apples, which, when they
are unripe, is like thick milk, has the peculiar quality of making
tough meat tender, by being rubbed over with it.

The cashew apples grow of different forms, sizes, and colours, some
being shaped like a quince, and of the same colour, some longer,
more round, less, and of a purple colour, and others of both
colours; but all have the same astringent quality as the quince.
These apples have each a nut, which grows out in the middle of
their tops, and is of the shape of a kidney; the shell of which nut
contains an oil of a corrosive quality that will consume iron; and
being rubbed on the skin of a person, it will cause it to blister,
as if burnt or scalded. The apple is usually roasted, the juice
pressed out, and put hot into punch, to which it gives a very fine
flavour. The nut is also roasted, and the kernel of it is esteemed
preferable to that of any other nut whatever. Of these nuts,
quantities are often sent from this island to England as presents.

The tamarind trees grow here in great perfection, and the fruit
of them is excellent, being much used in medicine, for which
purpose they are very valuable, and the timber of the trees is very
serviceable.

English and American apple trees grow well in Dominica, and several
of them are on different plantations in the island; particularly
on those of Alexander Stewart, Esq. William Urban Bueé, merchant,
and on some French estates, where the trees bear a juicy,
well-flavoured apple.

Also strawberries, rasberries, and several other European and
American fruits grow here in great perfection; proving, beyond
a doubt, that was a proper attention to be paid to the further
settlement of this island, there is hardly any description of
foreign fruits but what would flourish in this country.

The gardens produce the black and green muscadine grapes, figs,
musk melons, water melons, cucumbers, gourds, pompions, English,
American, and West India beans and peas, cabbages, carrots,
turnips, parsnips, lettuces, radishes, horse-radish, asparagus,
artichokes, spinage, celery, onions, eschallots, thyme, sage, mint,
rue, balm, parsley, and all sorts of vegetables and herbs, all
which grow in this island in great perfection.

The flowers are, roses, tuberoses, pinks, jessamines, and
several other sorts peculiar to the island; which latter grow
spontaneously; some are very curious, and most of them have a very
odoriferous smell.

The sensitive plant grows there spontaneously, and in great
abundance; also the ipecacuanha, and the latter is often fatal to
horses, cattle, and sheep, who chance to bite of it in feeding;
for which reason it is necessary to eradicate it as much as
possible out of the pastures. This plant bears very beautiful,
scarlet and yellow flowers, which, with the leaves, are put
into boiling water, and given as an emetic; but, without great
experience, this method of using them is dangerous, and has proved
fatal to many, who imprudently took too great a quantity of the
infusion; for which reason great care should be taken in using it.




CHAPTER VII.

  CONTAINS AN ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE OF THE ISLAND, PREVIOUS TO THE
    REDUCTION THEREOF BY THE FRENCH LAST WAR, WITH A RELATION OF
    THAT CIRCUMSTANCE; TOGETHER WITH THE ARTICLES OF CAPITULATION
    BY WHICH IT SURRENDERED.


During the space of the last five years, prior to the breaking out
of the disturbances in North America, the island of Dominica was in
a very flourishing situation. The port of Roseau, which was then a
free port, was resorted to by traders from most of the foreign West
India islands, as well as from England and North America.

The French and Spaniards purchased in this island great numbers of
negroes for the supply of their settlements, together with great
quantities of merchandize of the manufactures of Great Britain.
These they paid for in gold and silver, or gave in exchange
Muscovada and clayed sugar, coffee, cotton, gums, spices, ivory,
mahogany, and dying-woods, the produce of their islands; all of
which articles were exported to Great Britain in English bottoms;
and thereby were productive of great advantages to the trade and
navigation of the mother country.

The Americans imported thither lumber, boards, shingles,
wood-hoops, staves, tobacco, flour, rice, salt-fish, horses,
cattle, sheep, hogs, and feathered stock, the produce of North
America. These were necessary articles for the new settlers, who
paid for them in rum and molasses; or such other produce of the
island as was at that time permitted to be exported in American
vessels from the British West Indies.

The merchants of Dominica were then numerous, and were enabled to
make regular yearly remittances, of considerable value, to their
correspondents in England; and the planters of the country were
furnished with the means of carrying on the settlement of their
plantations with vigour.

Soon after the commencement of hostilities in America, and directly
on the adoption of measures by the Americans by way of reprisal,
the trade of Dominica to and with America was finally ended, and
drew with it the loss of that, with the foreign West India islands.

This total ruin of trade was attended with serious consequences,
fatal to the welfare of this island in particular, as being then
only in a state of infancy with respect to its settlement; and
it has never since been able to recover its former flourishing
situation: for the merchants, tradesmen, and others, having no
sale for their commodities, or work in their line of business,
withdrew themselves to places where trade and commerce were
more brisk; and the planters, from being deprived of the means
of furnishing themselves with such articles as were immediately
necessary for their new estates, were driven to abandon, or to
postpone the further improvement of them.

In this deplorable state was the island of Dominica when it fell
into the hands of the French on the 7th day of September, 1778.
Some months previous to this calamitous event his Excellency,
Thomas Shirley, Esq. then Commander in chief of the island,
knowing the defenceless state it was in, and being apprehensive
it would be attacked, in case of a rupture with France, which was
then threatened, employed a number of men for the defence of fort
Cashacrou; distributed the few soldiers then in garrison into such
places as were thought necessary, and took every precaution in his
power to prevent a sudden attack.

Fort Cashacrou, at that time the chief place of defence in
the island, is situated on a rock of about three hundred feet
perpendicular, and is surrounded on three sides by the sea, being
joined to the main land by only a narrow neck of land, which
renders it so very defensible, that if well provided, a few men
might keep it against as many thousands.

This measure, therefore, of Governor Shirley, who guarded this
fort, reflects great credit upon him; and the consequences which
happened soon after he quitted that government, from not pursuing
his plan, is a lasting proof of his abilities.

About three weeks before the attack, a report prevailing that
hostilities between England and France were actually commenced in
Europe, some attempts were made to put the island into a posture
of defence. The soldiers, of whom there were only ninety-four,
inclusive of officers, were stationed at the forts in and above
Roseau, and a few of them at Cashacrou; the militia mounted guard
in that town, and patrolled the streets every night till daylight,
and every step, that seemed necessary, was taken to prevent a
surprize.

Saturday, the fifth day of September, that year, was the day of
meeting for the militia to perform their exercise in the field; and
it was remarked, that they went through their evolutions with a
degree of celerity, nearly equal to regular troops.

Among the spectators in the field, on this occasion, were several
French strangers from the island of Martinique, and among them
was an officer of that nation of the name of Gabrouse, who was
afterwards harbour-master of the port of Roseau. These strangers
were in quality of visitants to some of their acquaintances in
the island; but their business was, in fact, to see what state
the place was in, and to engage the non-resistance of the French
inhabitants against the then meditated attack, as it appeared
afterwards by the public boast of the said Gabrouse. However, in
consequence of some intimation to the Lieutenant-governor, that
officer was taken up as a spy; but after a slight examination
he was suffered to depart; and the report of his being in that
capacity was treated with unmerited contempt.

It is worth while remarking in this place, that there seems to have
been a degree of fatality attending this island at that particular
period, as, exclusive of the men placed by Governor Shirley at
fort Cashacrou, being discharged from that service soon after his
departure for England, some months before the invasion, every
method was taken that could be thought of to guard against that
event; and it was the determination of the English inhabitants,
that should the island fall into the hands of the enemy, it should
not be owing to their want of attention, or endeavours to prevent
it.

But it so happened, and probably for wise purposes of Providence,
as there is hardly a doubt but that the lives of many by that means
were preserved, which would otherwise have been lost in the defence
they certainly would have made, had they had timely notice to
prepare for opposing the invading enemy.

This neglect of theirs was never so very conspicuous as on the
last two days before the attack; for on the preceding Saturday,
most of them were that evening at a public comedy acted in Roseau;
and on Sunday evening, when the militia guard were composed of
the chief civil officers and principal inhabitants, who turned out
volunteers in that service; being unused to the hardships attending
patrolling the streets all night, and watching to give notice of
approaching danger, they preferred the more inviting enjoyments of
diversions and good cheer in the guard-room; where, overcome by
these amusements, between two and three o’clock in the morning they
all retired to their own homes, wholly unapprehensive of further
danger for that time.

This same evening, some ill-disposed French inhabitants found means
to insinuate themselves into Cashacrou fort, where they contrived
to make the few soldiers there on duty intoxicated with liquor,
and afterwards filled up the touch-holes of the cannon with sand;
so that when it was stormed by the French the next morning it was
easily taken, and two of the English soldiers paid dearly, the
consequence of their great imprudence, by the loss of their lives;
being driven, with fixed bayonets, over the ramparts of the fort,
and dashed to pieces by the rocks at the foot of it.

The enemy began the attack between three and four o’clock in the
morning of Monday, the seventh of September that year; but they
had intended to have made their invasion much earlier, having set
out on the expedition from Martinique between the same hours the
preceding evening, but were detained by calm weather in the channel
between the two islands.

This was a very providential event for the English inhabitants of
Dominica, as there is every reason to believe, that had the attack
been made an hour sooner than it was, many of them would have been
massacred in their beds; if not by the French soldiers, there
was every probability to apprehend it would have been done by a
lawless banditti, composed of renegado white men, negros, mulattos,
and the outcasts of society from several French and other foreign
islands; who, with large knives and pistols stuck in their belts,
were prepared for the perpetration of every species of rapine,
barbarity, and murder. These wretches, upwards of one thousand in
number, were obliged to be satisfied for their failure of plunder
on this occasion, by a contribution laid on the inhabitants by the
Marquis de Bouillé, of four thousand four hundred pounds current
money, which was distributed among them a few days after the
surrender of the island.

After the enemy were in possession of Cashacrou fort, in the manner
before noticed, the major part of their forces being still at sea,
those that were landed either judging it imprudent to advance to
Roseau, or being satisfied with their then success, they fired
off two guns from that fort, and let off several sky-rockets, as
signals to their friends. This was likewise the first notice the
inhabitants had of the attack, which was immediately announced, by
firing an alarm gun, and beating to arms in the town.

Then was to be seen, visibly, the most poignant distress: the
helpless women and children running, shrieking and crying through
the streets; some of the women with their infants in their arms,
others with such things of value as they could carry; the negroes
terrified, running here and there,--all was, for a time, confusion,
hurry, dread, and dismay, none knowing where to fly for safety from
the invading enemy.

The situation of the white women and their children was, at that
time particularly, pitiable; for, deprived of the protection of
their husbands and fathers, who were obliged to leave them to
go into the forts in defence of the country, they were left to
the mercy and care of their slaves, to wade through rapid rivers,
exposed to the inclemency of the weather, which happened then to
be rainy; and in their way to a place of safety, encountering
such difficulties as were hard to be endured by the sex. Their
distresses were truly affecting, several of them died a short time
after, from the fatigues they that day went through.

The militia in the town and suburbs of Roseau were soon in the
field, to the number of not more than a hundred in the whole; few
of the French inhabitants assembling at the first, and those that
made their appearance soon after withdrew themselves, and were
no more seen, till after the island was surrendered. The militia
were distributed among the different forts in and above the town;
where, with the assistance of the few soldiers, some of whom were
of the artillery, they greatly incommoded the enemy while landing
at point Michael, by firing from all the batteries which they
occupied.

These were, however, in a very bad state; the gun-carriages were
all rotten, so that after two or three discharges the wheels were
broken to pieces. The cannon in Melville’s battery especially,
where the most execution was done, being in that situation, were
afterwards obliged to be laid on the parapets, there loaded, and
fired off. Besides, in this fort they were obliged to load the
cannon with loose powder, there being none of it made up into
cartridges; and the cartridges that were used there were fetched
by the militia from fort Young, which is upwards of half a mile
distant from the other. Nevertheless, what with the firing from
this fort, and from two field-pieces on a point of land just under
it, the French troops were greatly retarded when they endeavoured
to attack Roseau, and upwards of forty of them were killed.

About noon the same morning, the whole of the enemy were landed,
and pushed on their march for the town; when, having taken
possession of the fort at Loubiere, which is adjoining thereto,
they made several attempts to enter Roseau, but were as often
driven back, by the very heavy firing then kept up from all the
batteries.

Three times they were driven out of the fort at Loubiere, and twice
when their colours were hoisted therein, the flag-staves were
shattered to pieces by the balls from Melville’s battery: their
Commissary-general was killed there, and the Marquis de Bouillé
very narrowly escaped sharing the same fate, by the pieces of the
flag-staves, which tore away the couteau from his side.

This severe cannonading so greatly intimidated the French, that
they evacuated the fort they had taken with much precipitation,
and retreated to the side of a hill just opposite to it, out of
the line of fire. There they remained a considerable time, as if
to meditate on some other mode of attack; but shortly after, about
two thousand of them gained possession of the heights above Roseau,
where they seemed to wait the coming on of night, to make their
further approaches.

This last circumstance determined the fate of the island; as the
Lieutenant-governor, seeing the danger to which the small force
he had would inevitably be exposed by a further resistance, he,
with the advice of his Privy-council, then assembled at the
Government-house, sent out a Flag of Truce to the Marquis de
Bouillé, with offers to surrender the island by capitulation.

This offer was readily accepted, and the Marquis, under protection
of the Truce, came with it to the Government-house, in order
to grant his terms, and to sign his part of the Articles of
Capitulation. While this was doing, the firing from the batteries
ceased, which gave two French frigates an opportunity of coming
abreast of Roseau; when the Commanders of them, it is probable, not
knowing that the island had surrendered, seeing the English colours
still flying, with those of the French under them on the same
staff, they fired some broadsides into the town.

This unexpected salute exasperating the militia, they immediately
returned it with a forty-two pound cannon-ball, which, however,
fell wide of its mark, the gun, in the hurry they were in to shew
their resentment at so flagrant a breach, as they supposed, of
the Truce, being ill-pointed. This the militia were soon ready to
rectify, by pointing another gun of the same metal point blank
on one of the frigates, to which it would, doubtless, have done
considerable damage; but just as the match was going to be put to
the touch-hole, the Marquis, with the Lieutenant-governor, came
running into the fort, and begged them to desist; at the same time,
hailing the frigates from the ramparts, acquainted their Commanders
with the surrender of the place.

Matters being thus accommodated, the two Commanders in Chief
returned to the Government-house, where the Articles of
Capitulation being ready, were, by both of them, duly signed and
concluded. This being done, the Marquis returned to his troops; and
soon after marched them into Roseau, thereby taking possession of
the country for his most Christian Majesty.

It is worth while noticing here, the ceremonies used on this
occasion, as it is to be hoped they may never again happen in
Dominica. The French troops marched into the town in most regular
and solemn order, the drums beating a slow march, and the French
soldiers, with small boughs and flowers in their hats by way of
laurels, with assumed fierce countenances as they came by our small
force, seemed to threaten it with instant dissolution. The English
soldiers and inhabitants, with two field pieces in their front,
and lighted matches, their muskets grounded, and standing in two
divisions, the regulars on the right, the militia on the left. The
latter were permitted to take up their arms, and to retire with
them to their houses, amidst an almost lawless troop of ruffians,
by whom they had to pass; and who, with curses and reproaches for
being disappointed of plundering and murdering the inhabitants,
still threatened them, if they were not satisfied. The English
soldiers left their arms grounded, and retired to a place appointed
for them by the Lieutenant-governor; and the next day were sent off
the island, agreeably to the Articles of Capitulation, which are as
follows:


ARTICLES OF CAPITULATION,

  _Between the Marquis de Bouillé, General of the Windward West
    India Islands, belonging to his most Christian Majesty, and
    Governor Stuart, Commander in Chief and the Inhabitants of the
    Island of Dominica, belonging to his Britannic Majesty._


ARTICLE I.

That we the Governor, chief officers, officers of the troops, and
soldiers, shall go out with one mortar, two brass field pieces, and
ten charges for each piece, with arms, baggage, and all the honours
of war.

Granted, that the garrison go out with all the honours of war; but
afterwards to ground their arms, except the officers.


ARTICLE II.

That the regular troops, consisting of six officers and ninety-four
men, including non-commissioned officers, soldiers, and cannoniers,
be transported to England, by the shortest route, in a good vessel,
with victuals for the voyage, or remain here on their parole.

Granted, on condition that they serve not against the King of
France till they are exchanged; the officers to remain here on
their parole, but not the soldiers.


ARTICLE III.

That the officers and others shall have liberty to take with them
their wives and children to the English islands by the shortest
route; and that they shall be provided with a good vessel, and
victuals for the voyage.

Granted.


ARTICLE IV.

The inhabitants of the island shall retire from their ports with
all the honours of war, that is to say, with two brass field
pieces, their arms and baggage, colours flying, drums beating, and
lighted match.

Granted.


ARTICLE V.

The inhabitants of the island shall retain their civil government,
laws, customs, and ordinances; justice shall be administered by the
same persons who are now in actual charge thereof: and as to what
regards the interior policy of the island, it is to be arranged
between his most Christian Majesty’s Governor and the inhabitants:
and in case the island shall be ceded to the King of France at the
peace, the inhabitants shall have their choice, to keep their own
political government, or to accept that established in Martinique
and the other French islands.

Granted, till the peace.


ARTICLE VI.

The inhabitants and their religious ministers shall be maintained
in the possession of their estates, enjoy their possessions,
moveable and immoveable, of what nature soever they may be; they
shall be maintained and conserved in their privileges, rights,
honours, and exemptions; and the free negroes and mulattos in their
liberties.

Granted.


ARTICLE VII.

They shall pay no other duties to his most Christian Majesty,
than what they paid to his Britannic Majesty, nor other duties or
imposts. The expences for administration of justice, the salaries
of ministers, and other ordinary expences, to be paid out of the
revenues of his most Christian Majesty, as during the government of
his Britannic Majesty.

Granted; but the inhabitants of Dominica, for the liberty of
exporting their produce, must pay the office of the Domains the
same duties that the inhabitants pay in the French islands, or in
Europe; but the expences for administration of justice are to be
paid by the colony.


ARTICLE VIII.

The slaves, baggage, merchandize, and all other things made prizes
of during the attack of the island, shall be restored.

Granted; they shall be faithfully restored.


ARTICLE IX.

The inhabitants who are absent, and those in the service of his
Britannic Majesty, shall be maintained in their possessions, and
enjoy their goods, by virtue of their proper attornies.

Granted.


ARTICLE X.

The inhabitants shall not be obliged to furnish lodgings, or
any other matters, for the troops, nor slaves to work on the
fortifications.

There are cases of necessity that will admit of no exceptions; but
in common cases the troops shall be lodged at the expence of the
King, in the houses which belong to him.


ARTICLE XI.

The ships, brigs, schooners, and other vessels, belonging to the
inhabitants of the island, shall remain the property of their
owners.

Granted; but English vessels from Europe shall be delivered up with
fidelity to the King’s navy.


ARTICLE XII.

The widows and other inhabitants, who, by sickness, absence, or
other obstacles, are prevented from signing the Capitulation at
present, shall have a limited time allowed them for doing the same.

Granted.


ARTICLE XIII.

The inhabitants and merchants of the island, who are comprized
in this present Capitulation, shall enjoy all the privileges of
commerce, on the same conditions as are allowed to the subjects of
his most Christian Majesty in all his dominions.

Granted.


ARTICLE XIV.

The inhabitants shall enjoy their religion, and their ministers
shall enjoy their cures.

Granted.


ARTICLE XV.

The inhabitants shall observe a strict neutrality, and shall not be
forced to take up arms against his Britannic Majesty, nor against
any other power.

Granted; but the French-born subjects shall be at liberty to serve
the King of France; and in case Dominica should return to the power
of England, those who do not chuse to serve, shall not be punished
by the French government.


ARTICLE XVI.

All the prisoners taken during the attack of the island shall be
restored.

Granted.


ARTICLE XVII.

The merchants of the island may receive any vessels, that shall be
addressed to them, from any part of the world, without being liable
to confiscation,--dispose of their merchandize, and carry on their
commerce; and the port shall be free for that purpose, they paying
the ordinary duties paid in the French islands.

Granted, till the peace, English vessels only excepted.


ARTICLE XVIII.

The inhabitants shall keep their arms.

Granted, on condition that they serve not against the King of
France.


ARTICLE XIX.

That none other, except the actual residents of the island, shall
be possessed of houses or lands, by purchase, or otherwise, till
the peace; but after the peace, in case the island shall be ceded
to the King of France, such inhabitants as do not chuse to live
under the French government, shall be at liberty to dispose of
their possessions and goods, moveable and immoveable, to whom they
please, and to retire where they think proper; for which purpose
they shall have a reasonable time allowed them.

Granted.


ARTICLE XX.

The inhabitants of the island may send their children to England to
receive their education, to return hither, and to be supplied with
necessaries during their stay in England.

Granted.


ARTICLE XXI.

The inhabitants may dispose of their goods and possessions to whom
they think proper.

Granted.


ARTICLE XXII.

That the Court of Chancery shall be held by the Members of the
Council, in the same form it is at present; and that appeals from
the said Court shall be made of course in England, in the same
manner as heretofore.

Granted.


ARTICLE XXIII.

That the wives of the officers and others, on leaving the island,
may retire with their effects, and a number of domestics suitable
to their rank.

Granted.


ARTICLE XXIV.

The persons belonging to privateers, and those who have no property
in the island, who do not chuse to remain in it, shall have a
vessel to carry them to the English islands, and be furnished with
provisions for the voyage.

Granted, during the space of six weeks.


ARTICLE XXV.

DEMANDED BY THE FRENCH GENERAL.

There shall be delivered up to the General of the French troops,
all the artillery and other effects in the colony, belonging to
the King of England; all the batteries on the coasts shall be
restored to the same state they were in before the attack of the
island; all the small arms, which belong to the King of England,
shall be restored, except those of the officers and militia; no
powder shall be taken from the magazines; they shall be delivered
into the hands of such persons as shall be appointed by the Marquis
de Bouillé.

Granted, by Governor Stuart; the preceding Articles being granted
by the Marquis de Bouillé.


ARTICLE XXVI.

DEMANDED BY THE FRENCH GENERAL.

The magazines of provisions, and other effects, belonging to the
King of England, shall be delivered up to the Commissary employed
in the colony.

Granted by Governor Stuart.


ARTICLE XXVII.

OTHER ARTICLE DEMANDED BY THE FRENCH GENERAL.

Governor Stuart shall deliver up to-morrow, the 8th of September,
1778, the posts at Prince Rupert’s Bay, after the Capitulation
is signed. Fort Young shall be delivered directly into the hands
of the first company of grenadiers; the forts and batteries of
the town shall be delivered up at the same time, and all other
fortresses of the colony, as soon as it possibly can be done.

Granted by Governor Stuart.

We the Governor-general of the French Windward islands in America,
for his most Christian Majesty the King of France; and the
Lieutenant-governor and Commander in Chief of Dominica, for his
Britannic Majesty, the King of England, do ratify these Articles
of Capitulation in twenty-seven Articles as above, and oblige
ourselves reciprocally to abide by the same.

      Done in two parts at Roseau, Dominica. Signed and sealed with
        our seals at arms; and countersigned by our Secretaries, this
        7th day of September, 1778,

  (Signed)
      _De Bouillé_ and _William Stuart_.
      And underneath by the General _Doublé_.
      And by the Lieut. Governor _Hawkes_.




CHAPTER VIII.

  OF THE GOVERNMENT OF THE ISLAND UNDER THE FRENCH, WITH A RELATION
    OF THE DISTRESSED SITUATION OF THE ENGLISH INHABITANTS, UNTIL
    ITS RESTORATION TO GREAT BRITAIN; TOGETHER WITH THE ACCOUNT OF
    THAT EVENT, AND SEVERAL OTHER SUBJECTS.


Thus fell the important island of Dominica into the hands of the
French; and with it were lost all those advantages, that it was
afterwards discovered would have accrued to the English, had it
been in their possession during the last war.

This island, from its local situation, being exactly between the
two principal islands of the French, Martinique and Guadeloupe, is
the best calculated of all the possessions of Great Britain in that
part of the world, to secure her the dominion of those seas. Had a
few ships of war been stationed at Prince Rupert’s bay, they would
have effectually stopped all intercourse of the French settlements
with each other; as not a vessel could have passed or repassed, but
would have been liable to capture by the British cruizers off that
bay, and to windward of the island.

The island of Saint Lucia, that burying-place of thousands of
brave Englishmen, would then, it is probable, have remained in the
desolate state it was in before its surrender, as of no importance
to the French. And it is most certain, that had Dominica been
retained, at half the expence of men and money which it cost Great
Britain to reduce the other, the loss of most of the English
settlements in the West Indies would have been prevented, and the
French would then have had sufficient employment in securing their
own.

The importance of this island to the English was so well known,
and dreaded by the French at that time, that the taking it out of
our possession was the first object in their attack on the British
settlements: and the Marquis de Bouillé actually secured Dominica
for his nation, before hostilities between the two Crowns were
known in the English West Indies.

The forces under the command of the Marquis, on this expedition,
consisted of near three thousand regular troops, and near half that
number of volunteers, composed of white men, mulattos, and negros.
The naval armament consisted of three frigates, one a forty-gun
ship, and upwards of thirty sail of armed sloops and schooners.

For several days after the surrender, the inhabitants from all
parts of the island came to the Government-house, in order to
sign the Articles of Capitulation. During the time, some of the
English inhabitants were accused to the Marquis, by some of the
French, with having fitted out privateers against the Americans.
These persons were treated with great indignity by the Marquis, who
obliged them to pay down considerable sums of money for vessels
said to have been French property, which had been captured as
Americans by the privateers.

The principal accusers of the English inhabitants, on this and
several other occasions, were certain French people, who had,
heretofore, been treated with every indulgence and kindness by
those they accused; as they were also the chief promoters of all
the disturbances, heart-burnings, and animosities of the French
government, to the British inhabitants of the island, during the
whole of the time it was in their possession; and were, moreover,
the means of obliging several to quit it, leaving behind them
their property.

These were Thomas C----d A----t, W----m R----d, and a M----r
C----r. The latter had formerly dealt largely with some English
merchants of the island, whom he had defrauded of their dues by
running away; but returning on this expedition, as chief guide
to the troops, he was promoted by the Marquis de Bouillé to the
office of chief baker to the forces in the place, as a reward
of his treachery. R----d had quitted that country in the same
clandestine manner; but returning with the Marquis, as a volunteer
in the cause, was by him appointed his most Christian Majesty’s
Receiver-general of Dominica. C----d A----t had been a number of
years a trustee for the French church-lands in Roseau, to which
office he was appointed by the English government, at the time of
the cession of the country to Great Britain. He had, moreover,
been treated with a degree of indulgence in his office, more than
his behaviour entitled him to, and which he repaid, by taking every
step in his power to do injury to the English inhabitants of the
island after its surrender to the French.

The fate of these three men is worth remarking, as the recital may
serve to deter others from being guilty of the like treacherous
and mischievous doings. The Baker, whose infamous character soon
came to the knowledge of the French government, was discharged from
that office for fraud in his weights, and again obliged to fly
the country. The Receiver-general, after having exercised his new
office with every species of imposition and insolence in a degree
peculiar to himself, very prudently took a silent departure from
the island, a few days before its evacuation by the French, as
being conscious of his meriting a just punishment had he remained.
And C----d A----t, as soon as the island was restored, retired on
his plantation in the country; where, universally detested by both
French and English, he died of despair but a short time after.

As soon as the new form of government was settled by the Marquis de
Bouillé, he departed for Martinique, leaving the Marquis Duchilleau
Commander in Chief of his conquest. This Governor had an universal
antipathy to the English, the very name of an Englishman being
hateful to his ears; nor could he bear them in his sight with any
degree of temper; and contrary to the character of men in general
of his nation, he extended his brutal behaviour even to the female
sex, if they came in his way, to petition or address him in behalf
of their property.

Withal, he was so very pusillanimous, that the most vague report
of the approach of the English from Saint Lucia terrified him;
when, galloping up and down like a madman, he would threaten every
Englishman he met, to put them to death, and to set fire to the
town, should their countrymen dare to attempt an invasion. And
moreover, not confiding in the great number of troops that were
under his command, but thinking them not sufficient to quell an
insurrection of the English inhabitants, whom he weakly supposed
might make an attempt to retake the island, he thought proper
to break through the eighteenth Article of the Capitulation, by
disarming them, and distributing their arms among the runaway
negros, with whom he actually entered into a treaty for assistance.

This was the Governor whom the Marquis de Bouillé, from motives
of policy, thought fit to appoint over his first conquest; and
there could not have been a more proper person for carrying the
intentions of the Marquis into execution, by lessening the value of
Dominica, in order to have it ceded to the French at the conclusion
of the war. In this, however, happily for the English nation, he
was disappointed; and although the greatest part of the English
inhabitants, from the harsh and cruel treatment they underwent, not
only from the Marquis Duchilleau, but also from every French person
in office under his government, was driven to the necessity of
quitting the island; yet the few that remained, patiently enduring
all their sufferings from the French, waited only the commencement
of peace, to determine whether the country would be restored to the
English, or be continued under the dominion of France. The former
happening to be the case, was a matter of great concern to the
French, who, well knowing its importance, quitted their possessions
with the greatest reluctancy, from a conviction that it was an
island capable of being rendered both formidable and dangerous to
their own settlements at a future period.

To return to the Marquis Duchilleau; he, like another tyrannic
governor, issued a proclamation, forbidding the assembling together
of the English inhabitants more than two in a place. That no lights
were to be seen in their houses after nine o’clock at night; that
no English person was to be out after that hour, in the streets,
without a candle and lanthorn, or a lighted pipe in his mouth; and
that no servant of theirs was to be seen at night, without a ticket
from his master; under no less a penalty to white people, than
being shot by the centinel at the post they passed by, of being
imprisoned, or sent out of the island; and the servants were to be
whipped in the public market, besides a fine on their masters.

Many of the English inhabitants were imprisoned by him on the
slightest pretence; and one of them, Robert Thou, was actually shot
by a centinel, for attempting to go on board his own vessel after
nine o’clock at night. This unfortunate young man died a few days
after, in the utmost torture from his wound, the ball going through
his body at the breast; and the perpetrator of this horrid murder
was raised by the Marquis Duchilleau to a higher station in his
regiment, for having thus wantonly killed him.

So very apprehensive was this Governor, that the English
inhabitants were forming designs to retake the island, or that
they held a correspondence with the enemy at Saint Lucia, that
every letter of theirs was opened for his inspection before it was
delivered. And deeming this insufficient to come at the knowledge
of their private transactions, he adopted the practice of going
himself in disguise, or employing others, who better knew the
English language, to listen at their doors and windows in the
night-time; but luckily he never found out any secrets.

He repeatedly threatened to set fire to the town of Roseau, in
case the island was attacked; and though the latter was never
attempted by the English forces, yet that town was set fire to by
the French soldiers, who, there is every reason to suppose, did it
by his private orders. This supposition was strongly corroborated,
by his behaviour on the night of that melancholy event, at which
himself was present best part of the time; but he would not suffer
his soldiers to assist in extinguishing the flames; save only in
houses that belonged to the French inhabitants; especially in that
of Thomas Chabaud Arnault, which, though several times on fire,
was yet saved by the troops, in preference to far more valuable
buildings that were consumed, while they stood looking on, diverted
with the scene.

The soldiers were busy, the chief time of the fire, in securing for
themselves the property of the inhabitants; breaking open boxes,
trunks, and chests, driving in the heads of casks of liquor, and
taking out what quantity they could in their hats, bottles, and
other vessels, letting the rest run out into the streets. Some
of the French inhabitants were also busily employed in the same
manner; one of them in particular, of the name of “P----n,” was
actually detected with several articles of value belonging to
English people; and in particular a cask of Madeira wine, the
property of a Mr. John Tilestone, a reputable tavern-keeper in that
town; who afterwards recovered the value of it by a suit at law
against the said P----n.

This fire in Roseau happened the evening of Easter Sunday, 1781, by
which upwards of five hundred houses were consumed in a few hours;
and among them the principal buildings, stores, a vast quantity
of rich merchandize, and valuable articles of houshold goods were
destroyed, to the amount of upwards of two hundred thousand pounds
sterling.

The inferior French officers, and several of the French inhabitants
of Dominica, encouraged thereto by the tyrannic behaviour of the
Marquis Duchilleau, were not backward in their bad treatment of
the English inhabitants: the officers usually insulting them as
they walked the streets; throwing showers of stones on their houses
in the night-time; saluting the English white women with indecent
expressions as they passed by; taking the upper hand of the men in
taverns, and other places of necessary resort, where they happened
to be present, or indignantly driving them out; circumstances of
such mean cruelty to a conquered people, that one should think,
none but the dregs of mankind would ever be guilty of.

This too was the behaviour of some of the French inhabitants; from
whom it was, in a particular manner, distressing to the English,
who had heretofore treated them with every degree of kindness, as
being a set of people, who, though not of the same nation by birth,
were members of the same community, subject to the same government,
and as such, entitled to the same privileges and respect with
themselves. Of these in particular, a Frenchman of colour, of the
name of Blanchdelablong, and a white man, named Etienne Vring,
deserve to be mentioned. The first had the audacity to strike the
English Chief Justice, and the other insolently drew his sword on
a respectable English merchant in a public tavern.

It is, however, necessary here to do justice to the merits of some
of the principal French officers at that time; as of the Count de
Bourgoinne, Monsieur du Beaupé, and the generality of the officers
of Irish Brigades in that island.

The Count de Bourgoinne was Chief Governor of Dominica for some
time after the Marquis Duchilleau had quitted it, to assist in the
expedition formed by the French and Spaniards against Jamaica;
and during the time of his government, the English inhabitants
were much better treated, than while under Duchilleau. But this
not answering the politic views of the Marquis de Bouillé, he
recalled the Count from his government, under pretence of his
mal-administration; but in reality, only for his lenity to the
English inhabitants of Dominica.

Monsieur du Beaupé succeeded this latter; and although he was no
great admirer of the English, yet, during his government, which
lasted till the island was restored, the inhabitants of that
description enjoyed some little repose from their sufferings, as he
made it a point to prevent their being mal-treated by those under
his command.

The Irish officers of the Brigades being acquainted with the
customs, and speaking the language of the English, treated them
with every civility in their power, during the time they were in
the island; frequently visiting them, joining them on parties of
amusement, and rendering them several little services. And to their
praise be it mentioned, that on two or three occasions some of
them opposed the French officers, for their bad treatment of the
English, at the risk of losing their own lives.

During five years and a quarter, the time that the island of
Dominica was in possession of the French, it was resorted to by no
vessels from Old France; nor was any of the produce of the English
plantations exported to that kingdom during this period; but part
of it was sent in neutral bottoms to the Dutch island of Saint
Eustatius, before its capture by Admiral Rodney; and from thence it
was exported to England, under the most extravagant expences and
loss to the proprietors.

Other parts of the produce were sent in Dutch vessels, which were
engaged for the purpose in England, to Rotterdam, where, on, their
arrival, the sugar in particular sold from sixteen to eighteen
pounds sterling per hogshead.

After the breaking out of the war with the Dutch, the produce of
Dominica was sent, under Imperial colours, to Ostend, where the
sugar sold only from six to eight pounds sterling per hogshead.
This was a great falling off in the price of that commodity,
and greatly distressed the sugar planters in particular; but to
complete their misfortunes, one of those very vessels, laden with
returns to the island, was captured by the Americans, who sold both
the ship and cargo.

The prices of the different articles in Dominica, the greatest part
of the time of the French government of it, were as follow:

  Sugar, from 1l. 4s. to 1l. 10s. per Cwt.
  Rum, 2s. per gallon.
  Coffee, from 2l. to 2l. 10s. per Cwt.

Of the current money of the island, which was at eighty-five per
cent. and was not more than one-half the value of the same produce
at present. The freight of shipping it off from the out-bays to
Roseau, was then nearly double to what it is now; and the duties
paid to the French Custom-house, for exporting the sugar alone, was
upwards of twenty per cent. on their estimation of its value.

The different articles of provisions, and other necessaries,
brought to the island, were at a most extravagant price.

  Beef, from 9l. 18s. to 11l. 5s. per barrel.
  Pork, from 11l. 5s. to 13l. 4s. per ditto.
  Flour, from 9l. 18s. to 12l. per ditto.
  Butter, from 10l. to 13l. 4s. per firkin.

This was the wholesale price; but when disposed of again at retail,
the price was extravagant; for butter was not to be had there under
six shillings a pound, candles at three shillings, soap at the
same price, and every other article in that advanced proportion.

The English inhabitants then of Dominica were, in consequence,
greatly distressed; as few of them could afford to purchase those
necessary articles, the planters, and lower order of people
especially; the latter having no trade, and but little to do, were
unable to be at so great an expence; and the planters having a
number of negros on their estates, were distressed to furnish a
necessary supply of provisions for their slaves, or for themselves.

Many were under the necessity of purchasing from the French
soldiers their allowance from the King, of salt meat, bread, and
other matters; which, though not the best provisions of the kind,
were a great assistance to a number of the inhabitants, as well in
the towns as on the plantations.

On the other hand, the island of Saint Lucia, soon after its
capture by the English, was rendered a place far more desirable,
in point of trade, than it had ever been, while under its former
masters; and the French inhabitants of it were better treated by
the English government, officers and soldiers, than they actually
treated their own countrymen, who retired thither after its
surrender.

That island was the chief mart of trade for provisions and
merchandize of every description, during the war, being resorted to
by vessels, not only from our own settlements, but also from most
of the foreign islands, by the means of flags of truce. Provisions
in particular, were to be had there at the following moderate
prices, viz.

  Beef, from 5l. 10s. to 6l. per barrel.
  Pork, from 6l. 10s. to 7l. per ditto.
  Flour, from 3l. 6s. to 4l. per ditto.
  Butter, from 4l. 10s. to 5l. per firkin.

Although the French government of Dominica had every opportunity
of furnishing their troops with fresh provisions, by means of the
Americans, then in alliance with France, yet not a single vessel
arrived there with cattle, during the whole time they were in
possession of the island. But the cattle that were killed for the
use of the troops were, at first, indiscriminately shot on the
English plantations, at the pleasure of Duchilleau, whenever they
were wanted for the use of his soldiers.

He afterwards established an ordinance, that every English planter
should send a beast in his turn for the use of the military
hospital, under the penalty of having it taken by force; and
the person who did not comply, was imprisoned, or sent off the
island. By this means, upwards of sixty in every hundred head of
cattle in the country were destroyed during his Government; and
this ordinance was carried into execution with such rigour by him,
that if either by detention, by bad weather, or delay, by reason
of the distance of the estate from Roseau, the cattle were not
there in time, a party of soldiers, with their muskets loaded, were
immediately sent out, to kill any horned beast that fell in their
way.

By this arbitrary proceeding, many fine milch cows of the
inhabitants in the town fell victims to his wrath on these
occasions; and what was particularly hard upon the owners of them,
they were obliged to bear the loss without repining, and to put
up with being paid as for ordinary beasts, and waiting for that
payment a long time.

Another very great hardship on the owners of cattle, killed for the
use of the military hospital, was, that they were seldom permitted
to have a piece for themselves, though they paid for it, but were
obliged to be satisfied with the offals of the carcase. And, as
for others of the English, a piece of bullock’s liver was the most
they in general could get; and they were usually told by the French
officers in the markets, “That that was too good for an Englishman.”

This great destruction of the cattle in Dominica, at that time, was
a source of great disadvantages to the proprietors of the sugar
plantations, thereby preventing the possibility of carrying on
the culture of the sugar-cane, from the want of those necessary
animals. And by this procedure of the French, several of the
English planters were driven to the necessity of stopping the
further settlement of their estates, to the great detriment of
themselves and families, as well as injury to the mortgagees in
Europe; and at the same time, lessening the value of property in
the island in the opinion of people in general.

The French were satisfied with being able to keep the country from
Great Britain during the war, firmly believing, that it would
be ceded to them at the peace; they did, therefore, every thing
in their power to render the stay of the English inhabitants
uncomfortable and distressing. Their disappointment, therefore,
on finding the island was to be restored, was matter of great
concern to them; and they actually put off the delivering it up
to the English, a considerable time after the ratification of the
definitive treaty of peace was concluded in Europe.

Some weeks before the actual restoration of Dominica, an English
regiment from Saint Lucia arrived at Roseau, for the purpose of
taking possession of the island for his Britannic Majesty. This
was, however, peremptorily refused by the French Governor, who
strongly denied his having received any instructions for the
delivering up the island from his superiors at Martinique, or even
from Europe; at the same time, ordering the British Commander,
with his troops, to depart, and threatening to compel them to it.
But this order being contrary to the commission of the latter, he
declared he was determined to act as became him; in consequence
of which, he was at last permitted to land with his troops at
point Michael, there to wait till the French Governor had further
instructions.

Matters being thus accommodated, owing, it is probable, to the
superior force of the English, who came with two ships of war
to demand the island, which was then but thinly garrisoned; the
English troops were accordingly landed at the before-mentioned
place, where they continued till the day of the surrender of the
country to Great Britain.

It is worth while to remark here, the jealous behaviour of the
French Commander on this occasion; for though there was every
reason to believe, that he well knew the island was to be restored;
yet he took every method that was in his power of shewing a
disposition to prevent it; and he actually threatened to use force
if the English dared to land, as if upon an hostile occasion: nor
would he permit any of the English officers so much as to set their
feet on shore in Roseau; but lined the bay of that road with armed
soldiers, who even then treated some of the English inhabitants
exceedingly ill, for no other reason, than the joy that was visible
in their faces at the sight of their own countrymen.

This assumed face of resistance, was a plain indication of the
great unwillingness of the French to quit possession of the
country; but which would have little availed them, had the English
Commander been disposed to force his landing. This, however, would
have been productive of fatal consequences to the defenceless
English inhabitants, who would, there is no doubt, have fallen
victims to the fury of the French in the first instance, and it
would have answered no other end, than to facilitate the return of
the island to its former government a few weeks sooner.

The English inhabitants soon after made themselves amends, for
having been prevented from saluting their countrymen on their
arrival; for on the same evening there was scarcely a man, woman,
or child, in the town and suburbs of Roseau, that did not either
ride or walk to the quarters of the English troops at point
Michael, for the purpose of rejoicing at the prospect of a speedy
return of their own government.

One observation is due to the spirited behaviour of the British
Commander while at point Michael; he caused it to be well fortified
and guarded, for fear of the worst, and every day hoisted the
English flag. This being a most hateful sight to the French, their
Commander repeatedly sent orders to have the English colours taken
down, which the other as peremptorily refused; alledging, that this
country was his master’s, whose flag he would defend to the last
moment of his life; and that if the French Governor would have it
down, he must enforce his commands with the muzzles of his guns.

From this time, till the evacuation of Dominica, the French were
busily employed in demolishing the fortifications they had built,
and doing all the damage they could to those that were there before
their invasion, several of which they blew up with gunpowder.

This island was restored to England in the month of January,
1783. The day of its restoration was a joyful day for the English
inhabitants, especially for those who had undergone a long and
painful captivity, and had been treated with a degree of cruelty
hardly to be paralleled.

In the morning of the day of the evacuation the English troops
marched from point Michael; and between eleven and twelve
o’clock they came near the town of Roseau, where, waiting till
the French began to embark, it was near two o’clock before they
finally evacuated the island; and then the English troops came
into the town, with colours flying, drums beating, and a band of
music playing as they marched, escorted by most of the English
inhabitants, who, with multitudes of negros, lined both sides of
the way as they entered the town.

Between one and two o’clock, a company of the Train of Artillery
took possession of the principal fort in Roseau, marching in, while
the French troops marched out; and proceeded to the water-side,
where their boats being ready, they immediately embarked, amidst
the hisses and curses of the English inhabitants, whom they had
heretofore so cruelly treated.

As soon as the British troops were in possession of the fort, they
hoisted the standard of England on the flag-staff, which being a
sight few of the inhabitants had seen before, and being elated with
joy on the occasion, they were so eager to lend their assistance
to hoist it, that they were nearly pulling the halliards, by which
it was raised, to pieces, and breaking down the flag-staff by the
force of their numbers. The sight of the British standard was also
a matter of great admiration to the French, who, it is probable,
had never seen one before; and they seemed to view it with no
satisfaction, as they passed by it in their boats, probably, on
comparing the beauties of it with the fading pale colour of their
own.

Soon after the French were embarked, the new English Governor, John
Orde, Esq. landed from a frigate in the bay, under a discharge of
cannon from that vessel; which salute was returned by the fort on
his landing. When escorted by the whole of the English inhabitants,
amidst the shouts of “Long live King George,” he was conducted to
the Court-house in Roseau; and after having had his commission
proclaimed, and taking the usual oaths on the occasion, he retired
to partake of the general joy, and of a very genteel entertainment
prepared for him by the colony.




CHAPTER IX.

  CONTAINS AN ACCOUNT OF THE DIVISION OF THE ISLAND INTO PARISHES
    AND TOWNS, WITH A DESCRIPTION OF ITS CAPITAL, THE PRINCIPAL
    BUILDINGS, FORTIFICATIONS, AND HARBOUR; TOGETHER WITH
    OBSERVATIONS ON PRINCE RUPERT’S BAY, AND THE GRAND SAVANNAH IN
    THAT ISLAND.


Dominica is divided into ten parishes, viz. Saint Mark’s, Saint
Luke’s, Saint Paul’s, Saint Peter’s, Saint John’s, Saint George’s,
Saint Andrew’s, Saint David’s, Saint Patrick’s, and Saint Joseph’s.
In each of these parishes a spot of land is marked out for
building a town on, which was appropriated to that purpose by the
Commissioners on the first cession of the country to England; but
few of them have more than two or three small mean houses on them,
and therefore do not deserve further notice.

The town of Roseau is at present the capital of the island, and is
situated in the parish of Saint George, being about seven leagues
from Prince Rupert’s Bay. It is on a point of land on the S. W.
side of the island, which point of land forms two bays, viz.
Woodbridge’s Bay to the north, and Charlotte-ville Bay to the
southward.

Roseau is about half a mile in length, from Charlotte-ville to
Roseau river, and two furlongs in breadth, but less in some parts,
being of a very irregular figure. It contains not more than five
hundred houses, exclusive of a number of small wooden buildings,
occupied by negros, which give it rather an unpleasing appearance
from the sea.

The streets of this town are also very irregular, not one of them
being in a straight line; but the whole of them form very acute
angles, which face nearly the entrance of each other, and appear
very incommodious and unsightly. They are, however, mostly well
paved, are in general from forty to fifty feet wide, and the town
is very pleasantly situated.

Previous to the capture of the island by the French, this town
contained upwards of one thousand good houses; but the fire which
happened there, as before-mentioned, consumed the major part of
them; and the ruins still remain, as a memorial of that unfortunate
event.

The public buildings in Roseau are, the Government-house,
Court-house, Secretary’s, Register’s, and Provost Marshal’s
offices, the church, market-house, and gaol.

The Government-house is situated in Charlotte-ville, which joins to
Roseau, or is rather the upper part of it, being included in the
map of that town. It is a large building of wood, built after the
French manner in the West Indies, two stories high, with galleries
all round, and joiced. It stands in the middle of a large lot of
ground, surrounded with a low stone wall, has a very fine garden at
the back of it, and in front a long gravelly walk, very prettily
ornamented on each side with cocoa-nut and other trees, which gives
it a very rural appearance from the sea-side.

The Court-house is a neat wooden building, on the next lot of land
to the Government-house to the southward. This building is two
stories high, has a neat portico on pillars in front, and large
open gallery backwards, the windows of it joiced. In the upper
apartments are a large council-chamber, rooms for the juries, and
a gallery for the spectators, or others having business at the
courts. In the lower apartments are raised seats for the judges,
a place enclosed for the lawyers and officers of the courts, jury
boxes, and a bar for the prisoners. In this building all causes,
civil and criminal, are tried; and all public business of the
colony is there transacted by the Governor, Council, and Assembly
of the island.

The public Secretary’s, Register’s, and Provost Marshal’s offices,
are two low stone buildings in the yard of the Court-house, and
are covered with tiles. These buildings are in no other respect
remarkable, than being very badly contrived, and no ways adapted
to the purposes for which they were intended; the tiles being
frequently blown off in the hurricane seasons, renders them damp,
and an improper place for keeping public records.

The church is a large lofty building of wood, but it is at present
much out of repair. It has a neat pulpit, reading desk, and a few
pews; but neither altar-piece, hangings, baptismal font, belfry,
nor bell. This, the only Protestant church in the island, is built
on a large lot of ground, has a good churchyard of very deep and
excellent black mould; but the yard is not enclosed. Adjoining
to it is a fine lot of land, which was laid out in the plan of
the town, and reserved by the Commissioners, for the purpose of
building thereon a public school; but it is at present appropriated
to a quite different use.

The market-house has been erected since the restoration of the
island to the English, and is of wood, built on pillars of stone,
between which are apartments for the butchers and fishermen, and
the public stocks for confinement of disorderly white people and
negros; and the middle passage is for the loaded fish canoes, that
they may be drawn up out of the heat of the sun while the fish
is selling. The upper part of this building is divided into two
apartments, one for the Clerk of the market, and the other for
the use of the Town Wardens of Roseau, who hold their meetings
there when they transact the public business. It is also used as
a guard-room for the militia, during the three days and nights
of Christmas holidays (a useless piece of ceremony, only putting
people to unnecessary trouble and expence) and in times of actual
need, as fire, or any danger which threatens that town.

It may not be improper here to take some notice of the
market-place, and market of Roseau. The former is a large open
square, nearly in the centre of the town, on the bay; it is paved,
and well adapted to the purpose for which it was designed; but the
market is very poorly supplied in general with butchers meat. This
is partly owing to the scarcity of horned cattle, few being killed,
unless they are brought from North America, which, however, has,
of late years, been seldom the case, on account of the difficulties
to which American vessels are subject in their trading with this
island, several of them having been repeatedly refused admittance
into the port with only that loading.

This has often greatly distressed the inhabitants of Dominica,
who having few cattle of their own, and these few being necessary
for the service of their plantations, it would have been highly
imprudent to have used them for the purpose of supplying the
market; as it would have impoverished their estates of those useful
animals, without the least probability of getting them replaced by
purchasing others: for the Americans, from having been so often
refused admittance to dispose of their cargos of cattle, took so
great a disgust against the inhabitants of the country, that even
when they have had permission to trade thither, they have actually
refused.

Nor is the market of Roseau, in general, well supplied with
poultry, owing to the very blameable neglect of the generality of
the planters, in not raising a sufficient quantity of feathered
stock on their estates, of which they are so very capable. It
is, however, well supplied with excellent fish of most kinds
peculiar to the West Indies; vegetables and fruit of almost every
description are to be had there, in great abundance, much cheaper
and better than in most of the other islands.

Sunday is the chief market day there, as it is in all the West
Indies; on this day the market is like a large fair, the negros
from the plantations, within eight miles of Roseau, come thither
in great numbers, each one bringing something or other to dispose
of for himself, often to the amount of three or four dollars; and
many of them, who bring kids, pigs, or fowls, seldom return home
without fifty or sixty shillings, the produce of their articles.

The price of butchers meat is there very high, being as follows,
viz.

            _s._ _d._
Beef         1    1½   per pound.
Mutton       1    6    per ditto.
Veal         2    3    per ditto.
Goats flesh  1    1½   per ditto.
Pork         0   10½   per ditto.

There is no established price there for poultry, which, though
sometimes tolerably plenty, especially on the plantations of the
French inhabitants, who chiefly send that article to market, is
still excessive dear. A full-grown turky will cost from 16s. 6d. to
24s. 9d. and often 30s. a goose at the same rate; a duck from 6s.
to 9s. and a dunghill fowl at the same extravagant price.

The wild game of the woods, as pigeons, doves, and partridges,
which, though at times, in the seasons for killing them, are very
plentiful, yet bear a most extravagant price; a wild pigeon will
cost 3s. a dove or partridge 1s. 6d. and other small birds of the
country are at a very high rate. This is entirely owing to the
want of laws for regulating the prices of those necessary articles
in the island; as those who make a trade of them have the liberty
of fixing what price they please; thereby being guilty of great
extortion, to the sensible inconvenience of the inhabitants.

Eggs and milk are tolerably reasonable, and the latter is in
general very good; but those who chiefly supply the market with it,
adulterate it.

Notwithstanding fish of all sorts are caught in great plenty in all
the bays of the island, yet that article bears a much higher price
in Dominica, than in most other English settlements. This is also
owing to the want of proper regulations in the fish market; for
though there is an act for obliging every fisherman, who catches
fish within a certain distance from Roseau, to bring it there
for sale, yet the major part of the inhabitants, who are Roman
Catholics, fast the greatest part of the week upon fish; and the
fishermen, being all of the same religion, they contrive to evade
this act, by sending the best part of their fish to their friends,
and bring only what they cannot otherways dispose of to the market.
By this means that article is often scarce, as well as dear; and on
particular fast days, in Lent especially, the English inhabitants
are frequently obliged to fast without fish.

It has often been wondered at, that in Dominica there are no
English fishermen; and that a business, which is known to be
so very advantageous, should be entirely carried on only by
the French inhabitants. This neglect of the English is the more
remarkable, from the great inconveniences they labour under, from
not having a fishery of their own; but though a thing of the kind
was attempted by Mr. Beves, a respectable English inhabitant,
in the time of the French government of the island, it failed,
through the malice of some of the French inhabitants; and that no
other Englishman, since the return of the country to its former
government, has thought it worth while to repeat the trial, is a
matter of much surprize.

The present price of fish in the market of Roseau is as follows,
viz.

                                        _s._ _d._
River fish                               1    6    per pound.
Sea ditto, caught with hook and line     1    0    per ditto.
Seine and pot fish                       0    4½   per ditto.
Turtle                                   1    6    per ditto.

This is certainly a very high price for that commodity; a pound
of river fish, at 1s. 6d. current money, is 10d. sterling per
pound, at eighty per cent, the present rate of exchange of money
in that island; and hook and line fish, at 1s. is 6d. sterling and
a fraction per pound, at the same rate of exchange, a price which
greatly exceeds that of the same commodity in England, where it is
not to be had in such great plenty as in Dominica, and by no means
in so great perfection, especially in the city of London.

The public gaol in Roseau has been erected since the restoration of
the island to Great Britain, but it is not yet quite finished. It
is of fine stone, erected in a very healthy situation, on a large
lot of land, and the building on a large scale, is commodious, and
well adapted to the design.

The expences of purchasing the land, and building a part of
this gaol, were defrayed out of the money humanely contributed
by several worthy persons in England, for the relief of the
unfortunate sufferers by the fire in Roseau, in the year 1781,
before noticed; but which money, after it was sent out to Dominica,
could not be distributed to the persons for whom it was intended,
owing to the deaths of some, and the removal of others from the
island soon after that heavy calamity; the rest consented with the
Governor, Council, and Assembly, to its being appropriated in that
manner.

This building will be a lasting monument of the generous and
praise-worthy endeavours of Englishmen, to alleviate the distresses
of their fellow-subjects, in a country so far distant from
themselves.

The road of Roseau, for it cannot properly be called an harbour,
it being rather an open bay, is very capacious; and from
Woodridge’s bay, which joins it to the northward, to the bay
of Charlotte-ville, contained the French and Spanish fleets,
consisting of upwards of four hundred sail of men of war and
transport ships, which lay at anchor for several days previous to
their sailing on their intended attack of Jamaica last war, in
1782. This road is often dangerous in the hurricane months, and
has frequently proved fatal to vessels, whose Commanders were so
imprudent as to keep them there at anchor, from the end of August
to October; during which time, almost every year, the sea very
often tumbles into this road from the southward in a very frightful
manner.

A very dreadful circumstance of this kind happened the last day
of September, 1780; at which time the sea arose to the amazing
height of twenty-one feet perpendicular above its usual surface,
and its billows broke upwards of one hundred yards from the common
shore. It destroyed several houses in front of the beach, drove
several small vessels from their anchors, and carried them up
into the town; other vessels foundered, or were dashed to pieces
in the night-time; the dead bodies of the crews, with the pieces
of the vessels, were driven on shore, and the morning of next day
exhibited the most shocking spectacle of its unbounded fury.

The fortifications of Roseau are, Young’s Fort, Melville’s Battery,
Bruce’s Hill Batteries, and Fort Demoullin.

Young’s Fort is just opposite the Government-house, from the front
wall of which it is separated only by the highway. It is well
mounted with cannon, has a powder magazine, an arsenal for small
arms, and commodious barracks for the officers and soldiers; but
owing to its bad construction, only two or three of the cannon in
it will bear on any particular object; and it is, besides, entirely
under command of all the other batteries of the town on the hills
above it.

Melville’s Battery, as before observed, was the principal place
from whence the most material service was done, in preventing the
French from entering Roseau on the 7th of September, 1778. This
battery has some very heavy cannon on it, but the works of it are
all gone to decay, and it is at present wholly neglected.

Bruce’s Hill, which is just above Roseau, has several fine
batteries, with one for mortars, commodious barracks, and several
blockhouses. It had a fine stone cistern in the time of the French,
but which, being built by them, they thought proper to destroy and
blew it up, a few days before they evacuated the island, thereby
rendering it useless. However, the aqueduct, by which it was
supplied with water, has been since discovered, and is of great use
to that fortification, which is, upon the whole, well calculated
for the defence of the town, when attacked only from the sea; but
being under the command of other heights above it, it would soon be
rendered untenable, was it to be attacked on the land-side, as was
the case the last war.

Demoullen’s Hill fort is also well mounted with cannon, and is
otherways well provided for the defence of the town; but it is
subject to the same inconveniences as the other fortifications,
being under the command of the heights above it.

These are the chief fortifications in Dominica at present, except
that at Cashacrou, which is rather a signal post; the other
batteries on the sea-coasts, at a distance from Roseau, being of
small importance for the defence of the island, save only the works
now raising at Prince Rupert’s Bay.

This last is in the parish of Saint John, on the north-west part of
the island, distant about seven leagues from the town of Roseau.
The bay is three miles across, and one and a half deep, that is to
say, from the extremity of each point, to the shore of the land
laid out for a town. In this bay the whole of the British navy may
safely ride at anchor all seasons of the year, and be well supplied
with necessaries not be found at English harbours in Antigua, or
any other part of the English West Indies, the rendezvous of the
British fleet. It is surrounded by two high mountains, called the
Cabrittes; the inner of which is about five hundred, and the outer
six hundred feet perpendicular; both of them are out of the reach
of other heights.

At the bottom of these mountains, between the inner one and the
main land, is a large piece of swampy ground, upwards of one
hundred acres in extent; which, if well drained, would pasture many
cattle, sheep, and other stock, for the use of the garrison; and
the stock, feeding under the muzzles of the guns, would be secure
from being pillaged, or destroyed by the enemy.

Soon after the arrival of Colonel Andrew Fraser, his Majesty’s
chief Engineer for that island, the Legislature of Dominica,
wishing to testify their readiness to co-operate with government,
in the important work of fortifying Prince Rupert’s Bay, well
knowing that it would be the only effectual means of preserving the
sovereignty of the country to Great Britain, they passed an act,
granting to his Majesty the labour of one hundred negros, for three
years, to be paid for by the colony.

The work was accordingly began, by cutting down the trees on the
Cabrittes, tracing roads to the tops of them, and draining the
swamps; from which, in a few months, fifteen inches of water was
carried off, and it was found that they could be effectually
drained; whereby the healthiness of fort Shirley, which lays
between the two Cabrittes, was established. But on the rumour of a
fresh war, expected between England and France in 1787, the negros
so granted by the colony were withdrawn from Prince Rupert’s Bay by
Governor Orde, who employed them on the fortifications of Roseau,
particularly on Demoullen’s Hill, the works of which were then
first began. However, the fortifying the Cabrittes has since been
re-commenced; and when completed, there is no doubt but that they
will be nearly as formidable as the rock of Gibraltar.

At the distance of about twelve miles from Roseau, and nine miles
from Prince Rupert’s Bay, is the grand Savanna, which also might
be well fortified, and rendered of great service, for the defence
of the island. The Savanna is a fine extensive plain, upwards of a
mile in extent; is on a tolerable height above the sea-shore, and
at a great distance from the mountains above it.

The occupying this place by the English, was strongly recommended
to the then English Ministry by General Robert Melville, on the
commencement of the last war with France; when, had it been
adopted, there is every reason to believe, that Dominica would
never have been attempted by the French; and it is probable, the
reduction of all our other settlements, in that part of the world,
would, by this means, have been prevented.

In the Savanna are large quarries of excellent free-stone, fit for
every purpose of building. Of these, great quantities were sent
by the French, while the island was in their possession, to their
other settlements; to that of Guadeloup in particular, where some
of their churches, and other capital structures, are wholly built
of those stones.




CHAPTER X.

  THE CIVIL GOVERNMENT, OFFICERS, COURTS, AND OTHER SUBJECTS
    RELATIVE TO THEM; ALSO A DESCRIPTION OF THE MILITIA OF THAT
    ISLAND.


On the cession of Dominica to Great Britain in 1763, the government
of the island was included in that of Grenada and the Grenadines,
Saint Vincents, and Tobago, under General Robert Melville, but
afterwards it was made a separate government under Sir William
Young, in which independent state it remained till 1778, when
the island was reduced by the French. Whilst they possessed the
country, the government of it was the same as that of the other
French windward islands; but after it was restored to England, it
returned to its former independent government, and in that state it
is at present.

The present establishment consists of a Governor and Commander in
Chief, Lieutenant-governor, Council, Assembly, Magistrates, and
Civil Officers.

The Chief Governor is the representative of the King, General of
the forces, Vice Admiral, Chancellor, and Ordinary of the island.
He grants all the militia commissions, and commissions for fitting
out privateers; gives grants of land, renews the leases of the
French inhabitants, or other leaseholders of the King; and also
gives grants of poor settlers lots. He grants licences of marriage,
licences to school-masters, and licences to tavern-keepers, or to
sell spirituous liquors, to keep gaming tables, &c. &c. independent
of the other parts of Legislature. His salary is two thousand
pounds current money, which is paid him by the colony, exclusive of
what he receives from the Crown; and also exclusive of his fees of
office, which are very considerable.

The Lieutenant-governor is allowed no salary by the colony, but
during the absence of the Commander in Chief, when he takes the
supreme command, but receives only a moiety of the salary allowed
by the colony to the former. In case of his death, or absence
during that period, the chief command devolves to the senior Member
of the Council, who then becomes Governor in Chief pro tempore, and
enjoys the like salary as the Lieutenant-governor, during the time
he acts in that capacity.

The Council consists of twelve Members, who are appointed by his
Majesty’s Writ of Privy Seal. Of these the Commander in Chief has
the privilege to chuse seven, to be of his Privy-council; but the
office of the whole is to assist him in the government, and to
concur with the House of Assembly, in making and passing the laws,
statutes, and ordinances of the colony.

The House of Assembly of Dominica consists of nineteen Members,
who are the representatives of the people of the island, and are
chosen by votes of the freeholders in each parish, in consequence
of a writ issued for that purpose by the Commander in Chief, to
the Provost Marshal of the place. Their office is, to prepare all
public acts of the colony, which acts cannot be passed without
their concurrence; to maintain the rights and privileges of their
constituents, and to promote the happiness of the people of the
country, as well as the interests of the Crown.

The Speaker of the Assembly’s place is of great trust and
respectability. Nine of the Members form a House, where they
are attended by a Serjeant at Arms with the mace, who acts as
Messenger, and who, with the Clerk of the Assembly, is paid a
yearly salary by the colony.

The principal civil officers are, the Chief Justice, the Judge
of the Court of Admiralty, King’s Attorney-general, King’s
Solicitor-general, public Secretary, Register, and Provost Marshal.

The Chief Justice of Dominica is appointed by the Crown, and is
a post of great honour and trust. His courts are, Common Pleas,
King’s Bench, or Grand Sessions of the Peace; at both of which he
presides as Chief Judge. He is also a Member of the Council, and an
Assistant Justice of other Courts; his salary is six hundred pounds
sterling per annum, and his fees of office are very considerable.

The Judge of the Court of Admiralty for Dominica is also appointed
by the Crown, but has no salary allowed him, his emoluments
arising only from the condemnation of vessels captured from the
enemy, or such as are seized by the Custom-house for carrying on
a clandestine trade. He is also a Member of the Council, and
Assistant Justice of the other Courts.

The King’s Attorney-general, and the Solicitor-general, are both
appointed by the Crown, and have each a salary allowed them. The
public Secretary and Register, and the Provost Marshal enjoy their
offices by patent; the latter acts as Usher of the Black Rod, and
Messenger of the Council, the public Secretary as Clerk to that
Board; they have a yearly salary allowed them by the colony.

There are, besides, Justices of the Quorum, who are all Members
of the Council, Justices of the Peace, Coroner, Way-wardens,
Town-wardens, and Constables in every parish of the island.
The first three description of civil officers are appointed by
commissions, under the Seal at Arms of the Governor in Chief;
the others are chosen in turn, every year, at the Court of Grand
Sessions of the Peace.

The Courts of Dominica are, Court of Chancery, Ordinary, Vice
Admiralty, King’s Bench, Common Pleas, and Courts of Special
Sessions. The first five are the same as those courts are in
England, only that there may be appeals from them to those of the
mother-country; and the Courts of Special Sessions are chiefly to
try disorderly whites, or negros guilty of capital crimes; and for
fixing the standard of bread, meat, fish, and other articles of the
markets. At these courts two or more Justices of the Peace preside,
but one of them must be of the Quorum.

The fees of office in Dominica, as well as in all the English
West India islands, are very high and burdensome on individuals,
especially in some departments, where there are also other just
causes of complaints; but which it is not my intention to take
notice of particularly at present. These excessive fees are
peculiar to the British government in the West Indies, as it must,
in justice to the French, be acknowledged, that there is no such
thing among them; and that during the time they were in possession
of Dominica last war, neither the French chief Governor, nor the
other civil officers, received any fees from individuals for
public business in their departments. Every thing was done gratis;
and when they heard of a contrary practice under the English
government, they expressed their disapprobation, as a practice not
allowed by their government.

The militia of Dominica is at present only composed of foot, and
includes all descriptions of white men, and free people of colour,
from the age of eighteen to fifty years old, who are able to bear
arms, and have resided thirty days at one time in the island.

A penalty of six pounds twelve shillings is imposed on every
one, who neglects or refuses to enlist himself within the time
limited; which fine is doubled every field day after, until actual
appearance. A penalty also of sixteen shillings and six-pence is
laid for non-attendance in the field on field days, after being
inrolled; and which is doubled every field day after, until the
defaulter makes his appearance.

The field days were formerly the last Saturday in every month,
but have been lately altered to the first Monday in each month;
and sometimes, in cases of threatening danger, the militia meet
every week, or oftener, at the discretion of the Legislature. The
uniform of the militia infantry is, scarlet coats, with facings and
cuffs of black velvet; that of the artillery, blue turned up with
scarlet. These every person is obliged to furnish himself with;
but the arms, accoutrements, powder, flint, &c. are supplied by
Government.

None are exempt from serving in the militia, except the Members
of the Council, and the public Officers; but those who have borne
commissions in the army, or in the militia, in other islands, are
not liable to serve under the rank they were in before, unless it
can be proved they have been broke for misbehaviour or cowardice.

The militia of Dominica, previous to the reduction of the island by
the French, last war, were little inferior in discipline to regular
troops, especially that part of them which was composed of English
subjects. The defence they made on the 7th day of September, 1778,
sufficiently convinced the Marquis de Bouillé that they merited
that character, which he actually gave them in a very handsome
compliment that day; but he at the same time expressed his
astonishment, on seeing the smallness of their numbers, that they
should have behaved so well, as to prevent him from subduing the
island, as he had intended, without permitting it the benefit of a
Capitulation.

The militia is, at present, in a very respectable state; but it
would be much more so, was it to be composed only of English
subjects; for the French and other foreigners, who are incorporated
therein, from not understanding the words of command in English, or
from a natural dislike to the service, pay no great attention to
it; and in consequence very often throw the whole into disorder.

Here it may not be thought improper to observe, how very
disagreeable this service is to the generality of the foreigners,
who are inhabitants of this island; many of whom have repeatedly
offered to pay a certain sum annually to be wholly exempt from a
duty which they cannot be induced to relish, unless under their
own proper government. Besides, the impropriety of obliging such
persons to bear arms for the defence of a country, where they look
upon themselves as only temporary residents, and liable to be
severely punished, should it fall into the hands of their nation,
and they were to be found bearing the arms of opposition. And
moreover, to force them to learn the use of arms, might be attended
with dangerous consequences if they joined with the enemy in time
of invasion, or withdrew themselves, as they did before; at any
rate they can be of no use whatever in defence of the place.

The subjecting them, therefore, to the payment of a certain yearly
sum, instead of obliging them to appear in the field, to which they
are so greatly averse, would be the means of a considerable saving
to Government for arms, powder, and other articles; and some part
of it might be applied for furnishing such persons in the militia
with regimentals, who can ill afford it themselves. This would be
the means of having a complete militia in Dominica, wholly composed
of English subjects, on whom alone any dependance can be placed for
its defence, should it be invaded, and be so destitute of regular
troops, as when it was taken the last war.




CHAPTER XI.

  DESCRIPTION OF THE WHITE INHABITANTS, FREE PEOPLE OF COLOUR,
    AND NATIVE INDIANS OF THE ISLAND; THEIR MANNERS AND CUSTOMS,
    TOGETHER WITH OBSERVATIONS THEREON.


The white inhabitants of Dominica are composed of English, French,
Spaniards, Italians, and Genoese, who are natives of those
countries in Europe, or their issue, born in the West Indies; which
latter are called Creoles, to distinguish them from Europeans.
There are also some few Americans, white people, who are called
American refugees, and who retired thither after the establishment
of the last peace, and independence of North America.

The British inhabitants consist of English, Scotch, Irish, and the
said American refugees, who altogether, including men, women, and
children, do not exceed the number of six hundred, exclusive of the
regular troops stationed there. This is indeed a very small number
of English subjects for so very large and fine an island, the value
of its possession by Great Britain being thereby considerably
lessened; for so few inhabitants are totally insufficient to
render it of that importance, which it is capable of being, to the
mother-country.

The customs and manners of the English are much the same, as
distinguish the different descriptions of the same people in the
several parts of Great Britain, from whence they came; and their
religious persuasions are also the same.

It is much to be lamented, that in the English West India islands
in general, there prevails a great aversion to forming matrimonial
connections, as colonization is thereby much impeded, and many
evils, to the disadvantage of the British empire in that part of
the world, are thereby greatly promoted. This aversion is, in a
great measure, to be attributed to the views of the generality
of Europeans, who having submitted to a voluntary exile, which
they suppose is to be only for a few years, flatter themselves
they shall soon return wealthy to their own countries. Buoyed up
with these notions, they look upon matrimony as a bar to their
expectations; and in the mean time, content themselves with the
company of a mulatto or negro mistress, who brings them a spurious
race of children, the maintenance of whom, together with the
extravagance of their sable mothers, soon dissipates the first
savings of their keeper’s hard-earned wealth. When, as often is the
case, worn out by the climate, or other disasters, they at last see
their folly, but generally too late to prevent its consequences.

But were such adventurers only to consider, how few who go to the
West Indies live to acquire affluence, or ever return to their
own countries; together with the superior advantage to be derived
from the society of a wife and children of their own colour, it is
probable, that so many would not decline an eligible situation for
prospects that are so uncertain.

That which renders this aversion to matrimony the more remarkable
is, that the generality of the English white women in the West
Indies are as lovely as in any part of the world besides, make
as goods wives, tender mothers, and as agreeable companions. It
is true, they are not so remarkable for that pleasing florid
complexion, which is peculiar to the sex in England; but they have
in common as clear white skins, are as delicately and well featured
women as in any part of the creation; and they are remarkable for
domestic qualifications, especially for being fine, neat workers
at the needle, and making the best nurses, as well as œconomists.

In proof of their conjugal fidelity, such a thing is hardly to be
heard of as a Creole woman undergoing that ignominious trial for
crim. con. so frequent in the more polite countries of Europe,
where also it is too common for the women to form connections with
negro men. This last is a thing so very odious in the opinion of
Creole white women in general, that the most profligate of them
would shudder at the bare idea of submitting to it; and there is
hardly to be produced an instance of the kind in the West Indies.

Withal, so very remarkable are the English Creole women for
sobriety and chastity, that in the first instance very few of
them drink any thing but water, or beverage of lime juice, water,
and syrup; and in the latter, that there are few of them to be
seen among the loose wantons of the sex in the West Indies; the
generality of the white women of that description being actually
composed of adventurers from Europe, or of such as have followed
the army and navy to the islands.

This last circumstance is, in my opinion, a clear refutation of
that too generally received notion, that women in particular, in
warm climates, are given to inordinate desires; and proves to a
demonstration, that such passions are not owing to the climate,
but rather to a too warm constitution, which, aided by luxury, too
often gives itself up to satisfying its own depraved appetites,
against every sense of decency, and consideration of duty.

These observations lead me to the discussion of another subject, of
equal importance; namely, that of education peculiar to the English
West India islands. This, although it is a task which I am by no
means competent to, yet I shall be happy, if the few observations
here offered are of the least use to the rising generation in that
part of the British dominions.

It must be confessed, that in the English West Indies education is,
in general, too little attended to, owing, in a great measure, to
the prejudices of the generality of parents, who, coming themselves
from Europe, fancy there is no possibility of getting a good
education in any other part of the world.

Prepossessed with this notion, their whole endeavours are to
accomplish it for the benefit of their children; who, in the mean
time, are usually put under the care of some old woman, or person
of the other sex, equally as unqualified to teach them, merely for
the purpose of keeping the children out of the way. But it is often
the case, that after several years have been spent by a child under
such tutors, some unexpected misfortune happens to the parent, who
is rendered as unable to afford the expence of sending his children
to Europe, and paying the necessary contingencies of schooling
there, as he was when they first came into the world; or too much
time is required to enable him to accomplish his purpose.

The consequences are obvious, for the child having outgrown the
proper season for receiving any material benefit from education,
it answers very little purpose, if at that time the parent is able
to accomplish his desire. And it is a general remark in the West
Indies, that of such as have been sent to Europe for education
after a certain period, few have returned thither as accomplished
as many, who have had only a moderate schooling in the islands; and
scarcely any, without having his morals corrupted.

To this so prevalent practice in parents, of sending their children
to Europe for education, it is owing, that there are so very few
good school-masters, or other proper persons, to form the minds of
youth in the English islands; as the encouragement for such is so
very trifling, that it is seldom worth a man’s while to attempt it.
Whereas, was the contrary practice more in use, there is no doubt
but that education would be as attainable in the West Indies, as in
any part of Europe, and at a much less expence.

The French inhabitants of Dominica are more numerous than the
English; and as before observed, have the most valuable coffee
plantations in that island. Their manners and customs differ but
little from the people in the other French islands; and their
religion is the same, for they are all Roman Catholics.

They have several chapels in the island, but the principal one
is in the town of Roseau. This is built of wood, and is neatly
ornamented in the inside with an altar-piece, hangings, paintings,
and images of the Virgin Mary and other saints, baptismal font,
and pews. Here their bells are continually tinkling for prayers,
especially on Sundays and holidays, which last are so very
numerous, that they generally occur three or four times every week;
when great numbers of the French, both white and coloured people,
regularly attend their priests.

The revenues of this chapel, and of the ministers thereof,
principally arise from the rents of a large lot of land on which
it is built; and which was granted by the English Commissioners,
in 1763, to the French inhabitants for that purpose, on lease for
ninety-nine years. Great part of this land is let out for the
remainder of the term yet to expire; and thereon are built several
good houses, the owners of which pay a yearly assessed part of the
rent of the same, exclusive of the first cost of the lease of each
lot on which the houses are built.

The French priests in Dominica are appointed by superiors in the
island of Martinique; to the government of which island, and to
the laws of their own nation, they consider themselves to be
responsible.

The Spanish inhabitants of this island are not very numerous,
being only composed of renegados from their own settlements, and
are no great credit to this; but are suffered to remain there, by
frequently taking the oaths of allegiance to his Britannic Majesty,
on their paying a certain sum each time. This they sadly complain
of; but they do not mind the oath, as was evident on the day of
attack by the French; for on that day several of them joined their
countrymen arrived from Martinique, and with large knives and
pistols stuck in their belts, were ready to assist to plunder and
murder the English inhabitants, had the invasion been made in the
night.

The Italians and Genoese are also but few, and are chiefly employed
in cutting down the trees on the plantations that are in woods:
some of them carry about the country articles of grocery, tobacco,
and other matters, which they dispose of principally to negros on
estates; by which means they make a good livelihood.

The other free inhabitants of this island are free mestiffs, free
mulattos, free negros, and native Indians.

The free people of colour are chiefly of French extraction, and
most of them came from the islands of that nation; from whence they
have retired on account of the severity of the French laws, which
prohibit them from wearing shoes, stockings, ornaments, or any
dress after the fashion of white people.

They are, in general, very idle and insolent; the females usually
follow the occupations of pastry-cooks and hucksters, to the
great detriment of more industrious poor white people, and will
often get credit for articles in their way of business when the
latter cannot; but being in general young persons of the sex, they
contrive to pay their debts very satisfactorily to some merchants.
There are, however, some few of them who are natives of the island,
who have good coffee plantations, and are very civil and courteous.

The free people of colour are remarkably fond of dress and dancing;
for the enjoyment of both which they will sacrifice every thing
that is valuable in their possession. Dancing is the chief part
of their amusements, their preparations for which are commonly
very expensive; their ladies being usually dressed in silks, silk
stockings and shoes; buckles, bracelets, and rings of gold and
silver, to a considerable value. Their entertainments, on these
occasions, are also very expensive, their guests being treated with
every thing of the best. These meetings sometimes last for two or
three days together, during which they dance the whole time almost;
but it seldom happens that their balls conclude without broken
heads, bloody noses, or some piece of perfect gallantry.

The Indians, natives of Dominica, are descended from the ancient
inhabitants, who were found there when this island was first
discovered by Europeans, and are the people properly called
“Caribbes.” Of these there are not more than twenty or thirty
families, who have their dwellings on the east part of the island,
at a great distance from Roseau, where they are seldom seen.

They are of a clear copper colour, have long, sleek, black hair on
their heads, their persons are short, stout, and well made; but
they disfigure their faces by pressing flat their noses, which is
done in their infancy. They are a very quiet, inoffensive people,
speak a language of their own, and French, but none of them speak
English.

They live chiefly by fishing in the rivers and the sea, or by
fowling in the woods, at both of which they are very expert with
their bows and arrows. They will kill the smallest bird with an
arrow, or transfix a fish at a great depth in the sea; and are
very serviceable to the planters near their settlement, whom they
chiefly supply with fish and game. They are also very ingenious,
making curious wrought panniers, or baskets of silk grass, or the
bark of trees.

It is much to be regretted, that since this island has been in
the possession of the English, so little pains have been taken to
cultivate an union with these people, as they might be capable of
essential service to its internal security, especially against the
accumulation of runaway negros in the time of peace; and in war
they might be induced to join in its defence, should it be invaded.
Yet they are permitted to roam wherever their fancies lead them, as
much unnoticed as if no such people were in existence. They are men
as well as we, are born with the same degree of sensibility; and
by proper encouragement, might be of material benefit to a country
which was originally their own.




CHAPTER XII.

  OF THE NEGRO SLAVES OF THIS ISLAND, THEIR REBELLION AND REDUCTION
    THERE; TOGETHER WITH THE USAGE, MANNERS, CUSTOMS, AND
    CHARACTERS OF THOSE PEOPLE IN GENERAL IN THE WEST INDIES.


The negros in Dominica, under the description of slaves, are
between fifteen and sixteen thousand; but not more than one half of
that number belongs to the English inhabitants, whose plantations
in particular are but thinly furnished with them. This is owing
to a variety of causes; and among others, to the rather imprudent
conduct of some of the first English settlers, after the country
was ceded to Great Britain.

Many of them brought negros who had only been in the capacity
of domestics; some, those that were banished from other islands
for their crimes, and others purchased negros just brought from
Africa, for the purpose of settling their new estates. These were
immediately set to work, to cut down massy, hard wood trees, to lop
and burn the branches, clear the ground of the roots, and to labour
at difficult, though necessary business, for which they were by no
means qualified.

The consequences of these great mistakes soon after appeared, for
the domestic and new negros labouring in such work as they were
not used to, in a climate, which, from the abundance of its woods,
was so unsettled, that it rained greatest part of the year; whilst
they had only temporary huts covered with the branches and leaves
of trees to shelter them in at night, and were subject to many
inconveniences in the day-time; this very uncomfortable situation
occasioned the death of numbers, and caused others to run away into
the woods, where many of them perished.

The increase of runaway negros also owes its origin, in a great
measure, to the impolitic conduct of some of the first English
settlers: for, during the neutral state of this island, a number
of French and Spaniards had settled themselves on the most fertile
parts of the sea-coasts, and had raised to themselves very fine
sugar and coffee estates. Among these were some Jesuits, who having
sugar plantations on the south-east part of the island, they
disposed of the same, together with the negros on them, to some of
the English new settlers.

Many of the negros so purchased from the Jesuits, either from their
attachment to them, or dislike to their new masters, soon after
betook themselves to the woods with their wives and children, where
they were joined, from time to time, by others from different
estates. There they secreted themselves for a number of years,
formed companies under different chiefs, built good houses, and
planted gardens in the woods, where they raised poultry, hogs, and
other small stock, which, with what the sea, rivers, and woods
afforded, and what they got from the negros they had intercourse
with on the plantations, they lived very comfortably, and were
seldom disturbed in their haunts.

They were not, however, often guilty of any material mischief, and
had never committed murder till the reduction of the island by
the French; but soon after that happened, the depredations of the
runaways began to be of a more serious nature; for they robbed, and
destroyed the property, and at length killed some of the English
inhabitants.

To the commission of these daring outrages, they were greatly
encouraged by the Marquis Duchilleau, who, as before mentioned,
had actually engaged with them for defending the island; for which
purpose he gave them the muskets and bayonets which he took from
the English inhabitants, with powder and balls; and also furnished
them with the same provisions as was allowed to the French soldiers.

The runaways, at first, only robbed the English plantations of
ground provisions, plantains, bananas, and small stock; but at last
they had the audacity to kill and carry away the cattle, and to
plunder and set fire to the buildings on the estates.

The first instance of their committing murder happened on a
plantation, where a Mr. Hugh Gould was the manager; and who, on
their coming there to rob, as they had done several times before,
thought proper to oppose them, and actually drove them away.
Exasperated at this opposition, they a few days after returned
in great numbers, with a determination to kill him; but he,
fortunately for him, being gone from the estate on business,
escaped their vengeance. However, their bloody intentions were not
to be disappointed, and though missing their object, they were
resolved to give a sample of their formidable power, and they
actually murdered a Mr. Grahame, who resided with the manager as a
companion. Him they shot on his knees, as he was begging for mercy,
using him in the most shocking, barbarous manner while he was
dying; and after stripping the house of every thing of value, they
set it on fire.

Alarmed at this daring wickedness of the runaway negros, the
English inhabitants on the neighbouring estates, apprehensive
of their own danger, applied to the Marquis Duchilleau for
protection, to grant them arms, with liberty to defend themselves,
and to apprehend the runaways who had murdered a white man. These
requests were, however, refused by that Governor, and he actually
threatened, that if they dared to attempt any thing against those
people he would imprison them, or send them off the island; at the
same time, he acknowledged that the runaways were his friends.

They, encouraged by this uncommon conduct of this French Governor,
were afterwards fearless of any mischief they did, coming in large
bodies, all armed with muskets, bayonets, and cutlasses, on what
plantations they thought proper to rob, in the open day. Nay, they
often came in the same manner, with conk shells blowing and French
colours flying, close to the town of Roseau in the day-time, and in
sight of the French soldiers.

Driven to the greatest distress, and in dread of being destroyed
by those cruel wretches, the English planters, on the interior
plantations, were constrained to abandon their estates, and to
retire with their families to Roseau, as the only means of saving
their lives, leaving their property to the mercy of the runaways.

After they had done considerable mischief, but were still pursuing
their destructive operations against the English inhabitants,
unnoticed by the Marquis Duchilleau, it was found necessary to
petition the Marquis de Bouillé at Martinico, setting forth the
distressed situation of the English planters in this island;
praying for arms, with permission to defend themselves against the
runaway negros, and to endeavour to apprehend such of them as had
been guilty of murder.

In consequence of this petition, the Marquis de Bouillé gave
directions to the Governor of Dominica, to give arms to such of the
English as were on the plantations, to endeavour to put a stop to
the sanguinary and shocking ravages committed against them, and to
send out parties in the woods to apprehend the runaways, in order
to their being punished for such daring crimes.

These orders of the Marquis were accordingly put into execution;
and though attended with no material service, in point of reducing
the runaways, yet were the means of preventing, in a great measure,
their further depredations, till after the island was restored
to the English. However, at times, they still robbed the estates
of provisions; especially plantations that were nigh their camps
in the woods, yet not in so daring a manner as they had done
heretofore, doing it generally in the most secret manner, in the
night-time, when they were under no dread of being apprehended.

This dread was, however, not occasioned by any apprehensions of
being opposed by the English inhabitants, as afterwards appeared;
but from that of the parties, who used at times to be sent out
after them in the woods. But these latter being composed only of
people of colour, were no ways industrious in that service, and
actually never apprehended one of them. In this respect, however,
an English manager of a plantation, Mr. John Tombs, had much
greater success; for on the runaways coming to rob the estate on
which he lived, he opposed them, and actually took some of them
prisoners.

But being apprehensive, that those who escaped being taken might,
with others, take an opportunity to revenge the loss of their
companions and booty, he contrived to learn their intentions, by
means of a trusty negro belonging to the estate, whom he sent into
the woods, as if he were a runaway himself, on account of bad usage.

Mr. Tombs having procured several blunderbusses and muskets for
the occasion, instructed the other negro men of the plantation
in their use; exercising them for several days previous to the
intended attack, which he was informed, by his faithful spy, was to
be made on such a day, in the night-time, when the runaways thought
to take him in bed, and intended putting him to death in a most
cruel manner.

They accordingly made their attempt on the very day he was advised
of, coming in great numbers, about midnight, to the estate, with
expectations of glutting their vengeance. Fearful of giving the
alarm, or making their approach known, as soon as they came out of
the woods, near the borders of the estate, they extinguished their
lighted flambeaux, marching silently along in the road that lead to
the manager’s house, wholly unapprehensive of danger.

As soon as they had put out their lights, their guide, the faithful
spy, left them, and joined his master, acquainting him of their
approach, and, with those that were with him, immediately on
hearing the trampling of the feet of the runaways, fired a smart
volley from their blunderbusses and muskets among them.

This unexpected discharge, so seasonably made, put the assailants
into great confusion; from which however recovering, they returned
the fire for some time, but so uncertain and irregular, that it did
no execution. This was, however, not the case from the fire of Mr.
Tombs and his party, as was evident from the cries and groans heard
among the runaways, who were at last obliged to betake themselves
to flight; yet they took their killed and wounded into the woods
with them.

It is remarkable, that on this occasion neither Mr. Tombs, nor any
of his people were hurt by the fire from the runaways, although
this conflict with them lasted near half an hour. Whilst, on
the other side, there could be no doubt but that they suffered
considerably, both in killed and wounded, from the great quantity
of blood seen on the spot, and traced to the woods, the next
morning; but the number of either was never afterwards known, the
runaways having adopted the policy of the French in that respect.

This action was greatly to the credit of Mr. Tombs, and was of
eminent service at that time to the English planters of the island;
as the runaways finding how much it was in the power of a single
white man of resolution to oppose them, afterwards kept themselves
pretty peaceable, till the French quitted possession of the
country. But shortly after that happened they re-commenced their
depredations, notwithstanding several proclamations were issued by
the Legislature of the island, offering a pardon to all that would
surrender themselves, except such as had been guilty of murder.

To these proclamations the runaways paid no manner of attention;
but on the contrary, they bid defiance to every measure, and had
the audacity to threaten, they would repel any attempts to be made
to reduce them. In consequence of this obstinacy of theirs, and
their still continued acts of mischief on the plantations, an act
of the colony was passed for raising a fund, to be applied to the
purpose of forcing them into subjection. This act was made to be in
force for three years, commencing in 1785, and was made by way of
tax in the following manner, that is to say,

£. _s._ _d._

10   0   0  Per cent. on the assessed value of rent on all houses
            in the towns.

 5   0   0  Per cent. on the assessed value of rent on all vacant
            lots.

16  10   0  Per annum to be paid by all practitioners of physic
            in the island.

16  10   0  Per annum to be paid by all practitioners of the law.

13   4   0  Per annum to be paid by each merchant.

13   4   0  Per annum to be paid by each vendue master, tavern-keeper,
            &c.

13   4   0  Per annum to be paid by each merchant or shop-keeper
            (aliens.)

 3   6   0  Per annum to be paid by each manager and overseer of
            plantations in the island, whose salary was 200l. per
            annum.

 1  13   0  Per annum to be paid by each manager and overseer,
            whose salary was 100l. per annum.

 1  13   0  Per annum to be paid by every other white man in the
            island.

 1  13   0  Per annum to be paid by each male person of colour.

 2  10   0  Per cent. on all merchandize.

 2  10   0  Per cent. on all goods sold at vendue.

 1   0   0  Per annum for every negro slave, tradesman, or porter.

 0  10   0  Per annum for every house negro and slave on the
            plantations.

 0  10   0  Per annum for every hogshead of sugar made in the island.

 0   6   0  Per annum for every tierce of sugar.

 0   3   0  Per annum for every barrel of sugar.

 0   8   3  Per annum for every hogshead of coffee.

 0   5   0  Per annum for every tierce of coffee.

 0   3   0  Per annum for every barrel of coffee.

 0   1   0  Per annum for every 100lb. of coffee in bags.

 0   6   0  Per annum for every hogshead of rum.

 0   4   6  Per annum for every tierce of rum.

 0   3   0  Per annum for every barrel of rum.

The next step taken by the Legislature for reducing the runaways
to obedience was, to raise a body of colony legions, composed of
white men, free people of colour, and able negro men belonging
to the different plantations, for the purpose of sending them
after the runaways into the woods. Three separate encampments,
formed by these legions, were established near the haunts of the
runaways, against whom operations were immediately commenced; but
it was a long time before any material service could be effected
against them; they, in the mean while, committing the most shocking
ravages, almost within sight of their opponents.

The number of the legions was about five hundred men, under the
command of able officers of the regiment then stationed there;
and who, with a number of privates of the same regiment, became
volunteers in the service, the most daring outrages on the
plantations.--The number of persons, of which the legion was
composed, was about five hundred, under the command of officers of
the 30th regiment of foot, at that time stationed in the island;
these officers, with several soldiers of the same regiment, became
volunteers in that service, and had extra pay from the colony; the
pay of each person employed on the occasion being as follows:

           £. _s._  _d._

Captain    1   13    0}
Lieutenant 1    4    9}
Serjeant   0   12    0}
Corporal   0    9    0} per day.
Private    0    8    3}
Surgeon    0   16    6}
Carriers   0    3    0}

The runaways fully acquainted with the measures taken against
them, yet confiding in the strength of their numbers, and the
difficult access to their camps in the woods, made no offer to
surrender themselves; but rather seemed determined to abide by the
consequences, and deriding the attempt of reducing them by force,
threatened to do still greater mischiefs. They accordingly did
as they had threatened, beginning their attack on the plantation
of Thomas Osborn, Esq. coming there in the night, and doing
considerable damage; in drawing off some rum by the light of their
torches, it caught fire, which being communicated to the buildings
on the estate, burnt them down to the ground.

Their next attack was soon after on a sugar plantation at Rosalie,
belonging to the Lieutenant-governor and other persons in England.
There they came also in the night-time, murdered Mr. Gamble, the
manager, Mr. Armstrong, carpenter, Mr. Hatton, and Mr. Lile, the
overseers, together with the chief negro driver belonging to the
estate. Having glutted themselves with murdering these persons,
after stripping them of their cloaths, they set fire round the
bodies; doing the same to the sugar works, principal buildings, and
canes; and committing other considerable damages, to the amount of
several thousand pounds.

Elated with their success, and having satiated themselves for
that time with murder, plunder, and devastation, they retired
to the dwelling-house on the estate, where they regaled on the
stock, provisions, and liquors they found in plenty, their chiefs
being served in the silver vessels of the Lieutenant-governor,
which, together with other valuable articles, to a great amount,
they afterwards carried away with them. On this plantation they
continued two days, riotting and revelling, blowing conk shells
and huzzaing, as for a great victory, having taken the precaution
to stop up the roads to the estate by felling large trees, and
placing centinels to give them notice, in case of the approach of
the legions.

The latter were, at the same time, in their encampments in
the woods, while the runaways were committing these horrid
transactions, the knowledge of which was first brought to Roseau,
where it produced the greatest consternation, as it did also
throughout the island. This matter occasioned the legions to be
greatly blamed for their want of attention to their duty; as there
was every reason to suppose, that had they been more diligent in
their search after the runaways, they would never have dared to
commit such wanton mischiefs, or might have been apprehended in
the act. It was not, however, so much the fault of the legions, as
it was of the chief managers of the business; who being but little
acquainted with the situation of the woods, had so disposed the
stations of the three encampments, that they were unable to do any
effectual service; and it is probable, that the runaways would
never have been reduced, in the manner they were soon after, had it
not been for the exertions of some private persons, who materially
promoted it.

Of these, a Mr. John Richardson deserves to be noticed, as having
several times offered his services for the purpose, which had been
rejected; yet, grieving to see the business so very ill managed, he
formed a plan, to shew how easy it was to reduce the runaways, by
boldly attacking them in their camps.

As he was a carpenter, he was employed to rebuild the works lately
destroyed by the runaways on the Rosalie estate; and being at work
there, it happened that a party of the legions called there in the
way to their camp, in order to refresh themselves. Mr. Richardson
prevailed on them to accompany him, for the purpose of attacking
a principal runaway chief, whose name was “Balla,” who was the
commander of their late expedition against that estate; and whose
haunt Mr. Richardson very well knew, having a long while before
attacked him there.

Mr. Richardson having strengthened this party, with the addition of
some trusty negro men of the estate, they set out one evening on
their expedition, and having travelled all night through the woods,
wading through rapid rivers, crossing over steep mountains, and
encountering many difficulties in their way, by noon the next day
they came to the mountain whereon was the encampment of Balla. This
they ascended with great difficulty, it being cut into steps of a
great height above each other, which had been done by the runaways
for their own convenience, as being the only possible way to ascend
the mountain.

These steps the party were obliged to go up, one after the other,
and to have their muskets handed to them, the one on the upper, by
him on the step below, till they were all ascended. Mr. Richardson
was the first on the landing-place on the top of the mountain,
where hiding himself among some bushes, he perceived the runaways
going in and out of their houses, preparing their dinners, little
expecting such troublesome guests. As soon as the whole of the
party had joined him, they rushed on towards the houses, shouting
and keeping up a brisk firing from their muskets on the runaways;
who, in the greatest dismay and confusion, betook themselves to
flight, throwing themselves down the steep sides of the mountain,
in their hurry to get out of the way, by which it is probable that
several of them were killed.

The party having thus taken possession of the runaways camp,
immediately began to destroy it, by setting fire to the houses;
but in searching them previous thereto, they found some women and
children, among whom was a son of Balla’s, who, with the rest, they
took prisoners. Whilst searching the houses, the runaways on the
opposite mountain, on which they had retired, having recovered a
little from their fright, and probably discerning the small number
of the party, made several attempts to return and recover their
camp, keeping up a smart firing for some time, from the place
they were on. But they were discouraged by a well-timed thought
of Mr. Richardson’s, who, as often as they seemed determined to
return, called out the names of the different commanding officers
of the legions to attack the runaways, “To the right or left,”
according to the side on which they kept firing from the opposite
mountain. This had the desired effect, making them believe they
were surrounded by the legions; the apprehensions of which caused
the runaways to abandon the place with the same precipitation they
had quitted their camp, leaving it in peaceable possession of the
party.

The latter then had leisure to do their business, and to examine
the rest of the houses, which they found well furnished with
provisions, a vast quantities of cloaths, valuable articles of
furniture, and several other things, which they had stolen from
the different plantations. Such articles of value as they could
carry the party took with them, after destroying such as the fire
could not injure, and burning the houses, they descended with their
prisoners, and returned home in safety, none of the party being
hurt on the occasion.

This was a capital check to the runaways, and reflects great honour
on Mr. Richardson; as by his means it was, in a great measure,
that the runaways were at that time reduced. For after this action
they dispersed, and were so much disheartened, that they never
afterwards dared to assemble in any great numbers together; but
flying from place to place in the woods, were either killed, taken,
or surrendered themselves; and this noted chief, Balla, soon after
fell into the hands of a party of the legions, by whom he was
killed.

The runaway negros have since then, been seldom heard of in
Dominica; for those that were there under another chief, named
Farcel[4], it is imagined have quitted the island, and have retired
among the French settlements, or among the Carribbees at Saint
Vincent’s.

It is computed, that the number of them that were killed, taken, or
that surrendered, during this contest, was about one hundred and
fifty. The expences of the colony, on this occasion, was upwards
of fifty thousand pounds current money of the island; a sum so
considerable, that it appears hardly credible how, or in what
manner it was raised and applied. The first I have endeavoured
to give some idea of in the former part of this chapter; and for
the satisfaction of the reader, shall here give a statement of
the first year’s amount of the taxes, which were raised for this
particular purpose; that is to say, from the 1st of May, 1785, to
the 1st of May, 1786, as follows:

                                                          £.   _s. d._

Amount of tax on 4702 hogsheads of sugar, at 10s. each  2351    0    0

Ditto on 571 tierces of ditto, at 6s. each               171    6    0

Ditto on 745 barrels of ditto, at 3s. each               111   15    0

Ditto on 1861 hogsheads of coffee, at 8s. 3d. each       767   13    3

Ditto on 122 tierces of ditto, at 5s. each                30   10    0

Amount of tax on 503 barrels of coffee, at 3s. each       75    9    0

Ditto on 84340 lb. in bags of ditto, at 1s. per cwt.      42    3    4

Ditto on 682 hogsheads of rum at 6s. each                204   12    0

Ditto on 73 tierces of ditto, at 4s. 6d. each             16    8    6

Ditto on 109 casks of ditto, at 3s. each                  16    7    0

Ditto on merchants and traders                           676   10    0

Ditto on managers and overseers                          122    2    0

Ditto on Aliens                                          726    0    0

Ditto on inhabitants (poll tax)                         1206    6    0

Ditto on 597 negro slaves (tradesmen)                    597    0    0

Ditto on 12429 ditto, domestics and field negros        6214   10    0

Ditto on rents of houses and lots in the towns          1397   10    0

Ditto on taverns, &c.                                   1256   10    0

Amount of tax on manumitting slaves                      198    0    0

               Fines of the militia                       29   14    0

               Arrears of taxes                          803    1    9½
                                                    -------------------
                                          Total        17014    7   10½

This tax, as before observed, was made to be in force for three
years; and although it has, in some measure, answered the end for
which it was imposed, has been a very heavy burden on the colony,
and might, had the business it was intended for been properly
managed, have been lessened to within little more than the first
year’s amount.

The negro slaves in Dominica are, in general, comfortably situated,
and well treated, especially on the plantations; where, if they
are industrious, they have the means of living in a manner very
different from that deplorable state, which some people in England
have been at the pains to represent, as the case in general of
slaves in the British islands. They have there as much land as they
chuse to cultivate for their own use, are capable of raising great
quantities of all manner of ground provisions, garden stuff, and
other things, with which they actually supply the markets every
Sunday, and some of them to a considerable amount.

They likewise breed hogs, rabbits, fowls, and other small stock
for themselves; and many of them, who are careful in raising
such provisions, acquire a very comfortable living, exclusive of
what is allowed them by their owners. They have, moreover, many
opportunities on the plantations to procure other things to sell,
or make use of themselves, which are not to be had in many other
islands, as plenty of fish in the rivers, crapaux, wild yams, and
other articles in the woods; by which, those who are industrious
in their leisure hours often make tolerable sums of money.

However, not intending to confine myself to observations on the
treatment of negro slaves of this island in particular, in order to
avoid being singular in that respect, I shall extend my remarks on
that subject to the usage, manners, and customs relative to them in
the English West Indies in general.

The slaves then, in all the British West India settlements, are
by no means treated in that harm, cruel, and barbarous manner,
which some have described, to impress the minds, and to impose on
the judgment of this nation. For, on the contrary, the treatment
they receive from their owners, is, as nearly as can be, that of a
parent to his children.

Every family has a good comfortable house to reside in, which is
built at the expence of their masters; who also furnish them with
such cloaths as is necessary for them, with a doctor, medicines,
and all things needful when sick; and have nothing to expect from
them in return but good behaviour, and a necessary degree of labour
for the service of his plantation.

He moreover gives them a weekly allowance of provisions, consisting
of biscuit, Indian corn, beans, salt fish, mackrel, or herrings;
which, together with what they are able, if industrious, to supply
themselves with from their own gardens, and the produce of their
own stock, they are enabled to live in a manner which is by no
means unenviable, and preferable to the situation of thousands
of people in Great Britain, with all the accompaniments of their
fancied liberties.

The labour of the negros on the plantations is by no means
burdensome, or difficult; the digging cane holes, and cutting down
canes, being the chief part of their business, at either of which
a labouring white man, even there, will do nearly double the work
of a negro in a day. Exclusive of these, the labour of the slaves
is mostly confined to carrying dung in small baskets, planting,
and weeding the canes. The making sugar, rum, and other articles,
is the employment of such negros only, as have been taught those
businesses; and for which they have good encouragement to be
industrious, by extra provisions, cloaths, and other things, given
them while employed.

The field negros, when digging cane holes, have usually, in the
afternoon, half a pint of rum and water, sweetened with molasses,
given to each of them, which is a great refreshment in that labour,
and causes them to work with chearfulness. It is pleasing to see
them at this work, they being all together in one row, like a
regiment of soldiers, and all their hoes moving together; the women
singing some ludicrous songs of their own composing, which are
answered in the same manner by the men, and each striving to outdo
the other. This has a good effect in softening their labour, and is
much promoted by giving them their rum and water, which they have
also sometimes in their other work, especially after having been in
the rain.

The proportion of the working field negros on each plantation
is, commonly, from one third to two fifths of the whole number
belonging to each estate; the remainder include tradesmen,
watchmen, stock-keepers, invalids, house-servants, nurses, and
young children.

They have generally one day in every week, out of crop time, or
the Saturday afternoon allowed them, for the purpose of working
their own gardens, exclusive of their leisure hours, which are
from twelve till two o’clock in the afternoon of every day, and
Sundays. But was the custom to be general, of allowing them one day
in every week out of crop time, the necessity for their working
their gardens on Sundays might be prevented, and that day wholly
appropriated by them to religious duties, which might probably
be the means of promoting good order amongst those people, and
securing their future welfare.

The French planters in all the settlements belonging to that nation
have their negros baptized, and taught some prayers, which they
repeat on their knees every morning before they go to work, and
every evening after finishing it. This has a good effect on their
conduct, attaches them to the interests of their masters, cements
their union with each other, and is productive of many advantages
to the French planters, who, not withstanding their being actually
more rigid to their negros than the English, yet have better and
more faithful slaves.

Once a year, the following articles of cloathing are distributed
among the slaves on every English plantation, viz. a good warm
jacket, frock, trowsers, and hat for each man and boy; a jacket,
wrapper, petticoat, and hat for each woman and girl. These are
furnished them at the expence of their masters, and are generally
given to them at Christmas; at which time they are allowed three
days holidays, viz. Christmas day and two days after; during which
time they do no work, but spend it in dancing, singing, and making
merry.

This they are enabled to do, by having also given them at this
time four or five pounds of meat, the same quantity of flour or
rice, with some rum and sugar to each negro, besides taking from
their own stock, kids, pigs, or fowls; with which they feast one
another during the holidays. At this time especially, they dress
themselves out in their best cloaths; many of them in good linen,
silk handkerchiefs, bracelets and earrings of gold and silver, to
no inconsiderable amount, in which they visit or receive their
acquaintances from the neighbouring estates.

At this time too, they perform their offerings of victuals on
the graves of their deceased relations and friends; a piece of
superstition which all negros are addicted to, and which, were
they to neglect doing, they firmly believe they would be punished
by the spirits of the deceased persons. This offering consists
of meat, whole kids, pigs, or fowls, with broth, liquors, and
other matters; and is performed in the following manner: a man
or woman accustomed to the ceremony, takes of each meat laid in
dishes round the grave, and pulling some of it in pieces, throws
the same on the grave, calling out the name of the dead person as
if alive, saying, “Here is a piece of such a thing for you to eat;
why did you leave your father, mother, wife, children and friends?
Did you go away angry with us? When shall we see you again? Make
our provisions to grow, and stock to breed; don’t let any body do
us harm, and we will give you the same next year;” with the like
expressions to every thing they throw on the grave. After which,
taking a little of the rum or other liquors, they sprinkle it
thereon, crying out in the same manner, “Here is a little rum to
comfort your heart, good bye to you, God bless you;” and drinking
some of it themselves to the welfare of the deceased, they set up
a dismal cry and howling, but immediately after begin to dance and
sing round the grave. The ceremony is then concluded, by every one
scrambling for the remainder of the offering left in the dishes,
the dogs devouring that on the grave; and the company bidding their
dead friends adieu for that time, they all depart to their houses,
and continue their merriment the whole day after. This practice
is truly laughable to white people who see it; but it is a plain
indication, that negros have some notion of the immortality of the
soul.

The slaves belonging to people in the towns of the English islands,
are composed of house servants, tradesmen and porters. The first
live much in the same manner as the common servants in England, but
do not half as much work, and are subject only to a moderate manual
correction, instead of being discharged for their faults, and left
a burden on the public; or to support themselves, driven to the
necessity of using such means, as to forfeit their lives to the
laws; the case too often of servants in England.

The domestic negros are fed, cloathed, and provided with every
necessary by their owners, have generally a good apartment in the
yard of their masters, to retire and to sleep in; and they are in
general well treated. They make tolerable good cooks, washers, and
attendants; but it is best not to trust them without check, as
stewards, butlers, or in the like offices. They will seldom do the
duty, or assist one another in their several departments, without
being obliged to it by their masters, whom, however, they seldom
scruple to disobey.

The negro slaves, tradesmen, are chiefly carpenters, coopers,
blacksmiths, or masons; some of whom make tolerably good workmen,
if under proper directions; but they are not very skilful in laying
out work themselves, or contriving. They in general live very
comfortable, are well treated, and many of them make tolerable
sums of money by jobs they do for others in their own leisure hours.

The negro porters are in general a very idle, insolent and thievish
set of people, and are often guilty of much imposition, especially
to strangers on their arrival in the islands. They are commonly
the stoutest and worst disposed negros belonging to white people,
or to free people of colour in the towns, and pay their owners a
certain sum daily; but many of them will game away the whole of
their earnings, or spend it in liquor, to the great injury of their
masters.

The characters of negros are not so various as one would imagine
they would be, from the difference of the country they are brought
from, to the West Indies; as very few of them on their arrival in
the islands have the least appearance of having been civilized, or
possessed of any endowments but such as are merely natural. For
the generality of them, on their first introduction, appear as wild
as the brute beasts; are indolent and stupid to a degree, so that
they hardly know the use of the most common utensil of husbandry,
much less the methods of cultivating the ground.

Every thing appears to them as entirely new, as to the infant just
come to a moderate degree of vision; but, at the same time, they
seem to be so very unconcerned at the sight of the most novel
objects, that the bare recollection is not a moment in their minds.
They appear insensible to every thing but hunger and thirst, which
however, to satisfy, they have no more nicety than a hog; as any
thing, either raw or dressed, is equally acceptable when given to
them.

This stupidity of theirs continues a length of time after their
arrival in the islands, before most of them can be brought to any
degree of proper comprehension; and with many of them, it is
entirely unconquerable.

The Creole negros, that is to say, those who are born in the
West Indies, having been brought up among white people, and paid
some attention to from their infancy, lose much of that uncommon
stupidity so conspicuous in their new negro parents; and are in
general tolerably sensible, sharp, and sagacious. But there is
actually something so very unaccountable in the genius of all
negros, so very different from that of white people in general,
that there is not to be produced an instance in the West Indies,
of any of them ever arriving to any degree of perfection in the
liberal arts or sciences, notwithstanding the greatest pains taken
with them; and the only thing they are remarkable for attaining to
any degree of perfection, is Musick.

Negros are in general much addicted to witchcraft and idolatry,
both of which seem to be inherent in them, so that though many of
them profess the Christian Religion, especially that of the Roman
Catholicks, and some of them pay great attention thereto, yet, in
all matters which concern themselves, they have recourse to their
superstitious confidence in the power of the dead, of the sun and
moon; nay, even of sticks, stones, and earth from graves hung in
bottles in their gardens.

Their superstitious notions with respect to their dead are truly
ridiculous, for they suppose that the deceased both eat and drink
in their coffins; and for that purpose, they put therein articles
for both, together with a pipe and tobacco, and such things as they
know the deceased was fond of in his life time. Moreover, at their
funerals they believe the dead body has the power of compelling
them to carry it to the grave, in which road it likes, to shew its
resentment to those who have offended it; by the coffin’s tumbling
off the shoulders of the bearer, making them stand stock still,
or running therewith with speed, now one way, then another, and
sometimes throwing down and trampling on the people who stand in
the way.

They have their necromancers and conjurors of both sexes, whom
they call “Obeah men and women,” to whom they apply for spells
and charms against sickness, to prevent their being robbed, or to
find out the thief, and to punish those who do them any injury.
These Obeah people are very artful in their way, and have a great
ascendancy over the other negros, whom they persuade that they are
able to do many miracles by means of their art; and very often get
good sums of money for their imaginary charms.

The method of treating such as apply to these conjurors for
curing any imaginary disorder, excited by lowness of spirits
or fearful dreams, is very laughable; they persuade them that
they are possessed by the devil, as a punishment for some hidden
crime; but if not well paid for it, besides promising to submit
to every direction of the Obeah master, he will not undertake the
cure. Every preliminary being settled between the patient and the
operator, the latter begins his work with mumbling over a few
strange words, and having every thing ready, the patient so placed
in a dark room, that he cannot discover the cheat, he pinches and
pulls him till the other cries out with the pain; after which, the
conjuror produces sticks, knives, pieces of glass, and even whole
bottles, which he persuades the other that he actually took out of
the place he complained of; and then, rubbing it over with grease
and soot, or some such thing, the simple patient believes himself
to be perfectly cured.

Strange as this circumstance must appear, it is actually no less
true; and many instances have been known in the West Indies, of
negros who have been persuaded by these Obeah people, that they
were possessed in this manner till they have killed themselves in
despair.

These people are very dangerous on any plantations, for although
there is no credit to be given to the power of their pretended
charms, yet, they are in general well acquainted with the quality
of many poisonous herbs that grow in the West Indies, and which
they often give to others who apply to them for charms to be
administered to the persons upon whom they are to operate. By
this means many white people have been killed by poison under the
persuasion of these Obeah men, that it was to make them love their
slaves by whom it was obtained.

Negros are in general much addicted to drunkenness, thievery,
incontinency, and idleness. The first vice very few of them will
refrain from when they can get liquor, and in their fits of this
kind, many of them are very mischievous.

Thieving from their owners they look upon as no crime, nor have
they any dread of being punished for it, if they do it without
detection; and so general is this crime, that there goes a proverb
current in all the islands, “Shew me a negro, and I will shew you a
thief,” but were their offences of this nature to be as often and
as severely punished there as in England, there would seldom pass a
day, without some example or other.

So little are the sexes attached to each other, or constant in
connubial connections, that it is common for the men to have
several wives at a time, besides transcient mistresses; and the
women to leave their husbands for others, and to submit to the
embraces of white men for money or fine clothes. Mothers will
dispose of their virgin daughters to white men for a moderate sum,
nor do they look upon it as any crime, but an honour to the damsel,
who is thereby better qualified for being afterwards taken to wife
by one of her own colour.

Idleness is so very predominant in negros, especially those brought
to the island immediately from Africa, and their dislike of labour
is so great, that it is very difficult to make them work: it is
sometimes absolutely necessary to have recourse to measures that
appear cruel, in order to oblige them to labour. Nay, very often
the same means must be used to make them work for themselves, to
dress their own victuals, or to keep themselves free from vermine.
This vice is so very remarkable in many negros, that they will
actually very often, under some tree, sleep out the hours allowed
them to get their victuals in, rather than beat the pains of
going home to dress them. They are obliged to be attended by the
overseers and drivers to make them work their own gardens, at times
allowed them for that purpose, which many of them would otherwise
spend in sleeping, or doing less necessary things for themselves.
Many instances have been known of negros who have unfeelingly
endured the pains of the jiggers, by suffering them to breed in
their flesh, their feet swelled and perforated like an honey-comb,
rather than be at the trouble of taking them out[5].

There are however many negros, especially among the Creoles,
who are very industrious, make good husbands and wives, tender
parents, faithful and diligent servants, are obliging and kind to
their fellow servants, and respectful to all descriptions of white
people. These in return receive every advantage arising from so
proper a conduct; are well treated, encouraged, and protected; and
though slaves, their situation is far more desirable than that of
many white people, in the West Indies, or in Europe.

FOOTNOTES:

[4] Since this work has been sent to the press, advice has been
received from Dominica, that the runaways, under the command of
this chief, having been joined by a number of other negro slaves,
from different plantations of the French inhabitants, have again
commenced depredations of a most serious nature in that island. To
this the report further mentions, they have been encouraged by the
disturbances which at present prevail in the island of Martinique,
occasioned by the late revolution in France. But the particulars
of this new rebellion of the negros in Dominica have not yet come
to the knowledge of the Author, with sufficient authenticity for
insertion.

[5] The jigger is an insect much like a flea, which penetrates into
the flesh of people, especially in the feet; there lays its eggs,
hatches them, and if permitted by not taking them out in time, will
consume the whole foot. They give great pain, and have been known
to cause the amputation of the legs of several, who have been so
imprudent as to neglect taking them out; and some have lost their
lives by the same neglect.




CHAPTER XIII.

  OF THE PRESENT TRADE OF THE ISLAND, THE FREE PORT OF ROSEAU, WITH
    REMARKS ON THE SAME, AND THE CONCLUSION OF THE WHOLE.


The trade of Dominica is at present very much circumscribed, as
except that carried on by a few Guinea Factors, and five or six
ships annualy to take away the produce, there is very little
commerce in the island.

Roseau is however a free port, but its being so at present is
rather a disadvantage to the inhabitants, as it is confined
to within little more than one half its former boundaries,
and is besides under and subject to so severe regulations and
restrictions, that foreigners are deterred, rather than encouraged
to trade thither; and they absolutely look upon this free port,
in its present situation, as only a snare laid to allure them to
certain ruin.

No foreign vessel is allowed to enter this port, if it appear to be
any thing above the burthen prescribed by the free-port act, which
is there too rigidly construed. For, as the West-India vessels are
built for sailing fast, in order to make short voyages, they will
not stow away goods equal to their measurement, like the vessels
built in England. This has, however, been often made a pretence
for even seizing vessels, or obliging them to quit the port;
notwithstanding their having on board only money to a great amount
to purchase negroes with; by which means the Guinea Factors lost
those opportunities of disposing of their slaves, and were thereby
disabled from making so early or so great remittances to their
correspondents in England, as they would otherwise have done, to
the great injury of them both.

The frequent seizures that have been made there, and condemning a
number of foreign vessels, under the smallest appearance of their
using a clandestine trade, have effectually put a stop to the
resort of foreigners thither; nor can the Americans, from having
been repeatedly refused admittance, be induced to have any manner
of dealings with this island.

Many of the seizures made in this port have been perfectly illegal;
as in the case of a French vessel named the Pearl, which having
only touched at an out bay in distress for water, was seized,
brought to Roseau, and there condemned and sold, with a valuable
cargo of sugar. This proceeding was however, by an appeal of the
owners to the Admiralty Court in England, greatly reprehended;
and that Court adjudged the vessel and cargo to be restored, with
full costs and damages, to be paid by those who had been guilty of
making so very illegal a seizure.

Moreover, no boat from a foreign vessel is permitted to land on any
occasion in this port, but only in a particular spot appointed for
the purpose, for if an attempt be made to land at any other place,
they are immediately fired at by a centinel on the spot. This is
a most extraordinary, as well as a dangerous regulation, and has
several times been very nigh proving fatal to both foreigners and
the inhabitants of the town. As the former, not apprehending any
danger from landing in a different place, have been fired at, and
the balls dropt into the boat where the latter have been at work.

In short, so many very extraordinary measures are used for
regulating the free port of Roseau, that it is of no manner of
advantage to the inhabitants of the place; and in consequence by no
means answers the ends for which was appointed by the Crown.

This is a matter worthy of serious consideration by the British
Government, as from the still unsettled state of this valuable
island the only way to render it of that importance to the mother
country, of which it is so eminently capable, will be by a proper
encouragement to trade; without which, no settlement in the
West-Indies, be its internal resources ever so extensive, can
possibly be of any material advantage to whatever nation it belongs.

There seems, however, to be a want of knowledge somewhere of the
capabilities of this island; otherwise, there is every reason to
believe that it would not have been so greatly neglected as it has
been since its restoration to the British dominions, when at the
same time, the other powers of Europe were using every means to
establish their West-India settlements; the Spaniards, especially
in their island of Trinidad, inviting foreigners, particularly
English subjects, to reside there, by offering them free grants
of land and other great privileges; by which means thousands
have quitted the British settlements and gone there, and many
from Dominica; whereby the English subjects of this island are
reduced to near half the number that were in it, shortly after
the restoration, and the generality of them there at present seem
disposed to quit it, by reason of the ruin of their trade, and
other disadvantageous circumstances which they labour under.

Emigrations of English subjects from our other settlements, or
even from Great Britain, might be turned to great advantage to the
island of Dominica; as the lands there, if cleared of the excessive
forests of woods, are capable of far greater improvements than the
lands of Trinidad, or of any other still unsettled country in the
West-Indies. And if ample encouragement was to be given by Great
Britain, there is no doubt, but that in a few years this island
would be in a very flourishing situation.

This might be done, by giving free grants of the unappropriated
lands in the interior Northern parts of the island, which are
all in standing woods, in allotments of a certain number of acres
to every family, to furnish them that were not able to do it
themselves, with provisions and utensils for eighteen months by
Government, in order to induce them to reside on the lands, to
clear and cultivate the same; after which, their own industry might
enable them to proceed.

Secondly, to grant the leasehold lands which have been purchased
from the French inhabitants by English subjects, in the same manner
as their other lands; a considerable part of them so purchased
being now under cultivation, as sugar estates.

Thirdly, the remaining instalments due on lands in this island, not
under cultivation, to be given up by Government.

Fourthly, that some mode be adopted for getting the abandoned
estates re-cultivated.

And lastly, the establishing a society for promoting agriculture
in this island, with premiums to be given to such as raise the
greatest quantities of West-India produce, for the maintenance of
themselves and slaves at first, afterwards for commerce.

If pasture estates were to be established there, as in Jamaica, it
would be a material point gained. And as the cattle in Dominica
breed extremely well, there is no doubt, but that in a few years,
by good management, this island would be well furnished with those
useful animals.

The very bad state of the public roads is a great disadvantage to
the island, as some of them are perfectly dangerous to travel; and
the whole of them are difficult and badly situated. They are in
general dug on the sides of mountains of stupendous heights above
the rivers or sea, the billows of which are continually dashing
at the feet of them, in a frightful manner. They are also so
very narrow in some places, that it is very difficult, as well as
dangerous, for two persons meeting on horseback to pass each other;
as the least slip on the edge would precipitate both the horse and
rider to inevitable destruction.

Of this description, are several parts of the road from Roseau to
Prince Rupert’s Bay; where, together with the frightful prospect of
hanging rocks and large stones at a great height above one’s head,
that threaten every moment to fall and crush the fearful traveller;
the tedious steepness, stony, and difficult passages, render them
perfectly uncomfortable to travellers.

The public roads in the interior parts of the country are no less
inconvenient, they being in general very steep of ascent; narrow,
and subject to breaking in. One walks or rides there at a height
far exceeding that of the monument in London; so that a person’s
head turns giddy on casting a view to the bottom, as he passes
along.

Those who are advocates for the abolition of slavery, may in this
island have the opportunity of trying the settlement of cool
situations by white people only. Why not employ the soldiers there,
and allow them extra pay for making good bridle roads in the
interior parts of this country? this would materially promote the
further settlement of the island; and was a good open road to be
made from Roseau to Prince Rupert’s Bay, the communication between
those two places would be productive of the greatest utility, as
other roads might be made to branch from it to the windward and
leward coasts, in a much more convenient manner than can be done by
the present small number of its inhabitants.


FINIS.




Transcriber’s Notes:


The convention of beginning every line of a quoted passage with
quotation marks was changed to modern standard quotation notation
to accommodate the fluid lines of an ebook. Otherwise, all unusual
spelling, capitalization and punctuation was retained as possibly
the intention of the author, with the exception of the following,
which were clearly printing errors.

“is” changed to “it” on page 29. (for which reason it is generally
called the West-India ortolon.)

Repeated word “the” removed from page 89. (larger than the largest)

“goal” changed to “gaol” on page 184. (The public gaol in Roseau)

“entertaiments” changed to “entertainments” on page 221 (Their
entertainments, on these occasions, are also very expensive)