Produced by Marius Masi, Greg Bergquist and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
file was produced from images generously made available
by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)







THE GREAT FROZEN SEA


[Illustration: "ALERT" AND "DISCOVERY."]


                   THE
             GREAT FROZEN SEA

   _A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE
              OF THE "ALERT"_

  DURING THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6


                    BY

  REAR-ADMIRAL ALBERT HASTINGS MARKHAM, R.N.
      (LATE COMMANDER OF H.M.S. "ALERT")

  AUTHOR OF "A WHALING CRUISE TO BAFFIN'S BAY AND THE GULF OF BOOTHIA,"
  AND "THE CRUISE OF THE 'ROSARIO'"


    "There's a flag on the mast, and it points to the north,
       And the north holds the land that I love;
     I will steer back to northward, the heavenly course,
       Of the winds guiding sure from above."

       FRITHIOF'S "SAGA"


  SEVENTH EDITION

  LONDON

  KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, TRÜBNER & CO., LT^D

  1894

  (_The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved._)


  TO

  The Memory of

  REAR-ADMIRAL SHERARD OSBORN, C.B.,

  WHO, WHILE HE LIVED, WAS THE MOVING SPIRIT IN SECURING THE DESPATCH OF
  THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION, AND WHOSE PAST DEEDS IN THE SAME FIELD
  REFLECTED A BRIGHT RAY OF HOPEFUL LIGHT ON THOSE WHO STROVE TO EMULATE
  HIS EXAMPLE WHILST FOLLOWING IN HIS FOOTSTEPS,

  This little Work

  IS REVERENTLY AND AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED BY

  THE AUTHOR.




PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.


The History of the Arctic Expedition of 1875-76, and the record of its
results, will be found in the work of Sir George Nares. My object in
publishing the present volume is to furnish a popular narrative of
memorable events as they presented themselves to an individual member of
the Expedition, and especially of the work of sledge travelling over the
frozen polar ocean. It was written a few months after our return to
England, but its appearance has been purposely deferred until the
publication of the work by Sir George Nares.

The same reasons still exist for continuing the work of Arctic
exploration as were adduced for commencing it in 1875.

It is impossible to complete so great a work in one campaign, and the
results of the late Expedition ought only to whet our appetites, and
stimulate us to undertake further discoveries.

The narrative of Sir George Nares will show the completeness of the
work accomplished, so far as the route by Smith Sound is concerned, and
with the appendices containing the numerous and valuable scientific
results, will prove the importance of Arctic discovery. But there are
other routes remaining to be explored, which will yield equally useful
results.

Behring Strait is a portal leading to a vast region, the history of
which has hitherto been as a sealed book.

An expedition to the east coast of Greenland for the purpose of
connecting our discoveries at Cape Britannia with those of the Germans
at Cape Bismarck, and thus solving the interesting geographical problem
regarding the insularity of Greenland, would be of the greatest
importance.

The exploration of Jones and Hayes Sounds offer a rich field; but that
which, in my opinion, would yield the most profitable harvest, is the
continuation of the discoveries of the Austro-Hungarian expedition in
Franz-Josef Land. Once reach in a ship the position attained by Lieut.
Payer and his sledge party, and such a measure of success would follow
as would prove satisfactory even to the most sanguine. Although the
flags of Holland, Sweden, and America will this year float in the Arctic
Regions, that of England will be unrepresented.

It is hardly to be expected, in the present critical state of affairs,
that our Government can afford to give either time or attention to the
subject of Arctic exploration, but when the existing differences are all
happily settled, there will really be more reasons for following up the
work than were brought forward for undertaking it in 1875. We were never
in a better position for doing so than at the present time. We possess a
couple of ships whose capabilities for Arctic navigation have been
already thoroughly tested, and found perfect; we have officers and men
experienced in the navigation of those icy seas and in sledging, and we
have stores and provisions ready to equip another expedition.

The expense, seeing that the ships and stores are lying idle, would be
insignificant, and would hardly be more than equal to that of keeping a
couple of small gun-boats in commission. Surely this great nation could
easily afford, in the interests of science and for her own honour, to
incur such an expenditure. I trust so; and I, for one, look forward with
confident hope to the despatch, in a few years, of another Arctic
expedition as well equipped as the one of which I was lately a member.

  A. H. M.

  21, ECCLESTON SQUARE,
    _March, 1878_.




OFFICERS AND SHIP'S COMPANY OF H.M.S. "ALERT."


OFFICERS.

  _Captain_, GEORGE S. NARES, F.R.S.
  _Commander_, ALBERT H. MARKHAM, F.R.G.S.
  _Lieutenant_, PELHAM ALDRICH.
          "         ALFRED A. CHASE PARR.
          "         GEORGE A. GIFFARD.
          "         WILLIAM H. MAY.
  _Sub-Lieutenant_, GEORGE LE C. EGERTON (promoted to Lieutenant during
     the absence of the expedition).
  _Fleet Surgeon_, THOMAS COLAN, M.D.
  _Surgeon_, EDWARD L. MOSS, M.D.
  _Engineer_, JAMES WOOTTON.
          "        GEORGE WHITE.
  _Naturalist_, Captain H. WEMYSS FEILDEN, R.A., F.G.S., F.Z.S.
  _Chaplain_, Rev. W. H. PULLEN.


SHIP'S COMPANY.

  Joseph Good, chief boatswain's mate.
  John R. Radmore, chief carp. mate.[1]
  Geo. Burroughs, ship's steward.
  Vincent Dominic, ship's cook.
  David Deuchars, ice quartermaster.
  John Thores, ice quartermaster.
  James Berrie, ice quartermaster.
  Edward Lawrence, 1st cl. P.O.[2]
  Daniel Harley, 1st cl. P.O.[3]
  Thomas Stuckberry, 1st cl. P.O.
  Thomas Rawlings, 1st cl. P.O.
  James Doidge, 1st cl. P.O.[4]
  Thomas Jolliffe, 1st. cl. P.O.
  Spero Capato, captain's steward.
  George Kemish, W. R. steward.
  Frederick Cane, armourer.
  John Hawkins, cooper.
  William F. Hunt, W. R. cook.
  Robert Joiner, leading stoker.
  John Simmons, 2nd cl. P.O.
  Adam Ayles, 2nd cl. P.O.
  William Ferbrache, A.B.
  George Cranstone, A.B.
  William Lorrimer, A.B.
  George Winstone, A.B.
  Reuben Francombe, A.B.
  Thomas H. Simpson, A.B.
  David Mitchell, A.B.
  Alfred R. Pearce, A.B.
  James Self, A.B.
  William Woolley, A.B.
  John Pearson, A.B.
  William Maskell, A.B.
  William Malley, A.B.
  Robert Symons, A.B.
  Henry Mann, shipwright.
  William Gore, stoker.
  John Shirley, stoker.
  Edward Stubbs, stoker and blacksmith.
  George Norris, carpenter's crew.
  Neil Christian Petersen, Danish interpreter and dog driver.[5]
  Frederic, Eskimo dog driver and hunter.


MARINES

  William Wood, colour-sergeant R.M.L.I.
  William Ellard, private R.M.L.I.
  Thomas Smith, private R.M.L.I.
  John Hollins, private R.M.L.I.
  Elias Hill, gunner R.M.A.
  George Porter, gunner R.M.A.[6]
  Thomas Oakley, gunner R.M.A.

The following sledge crew from H.M.S. "Discovery" wintered on board the
"Alert":--

  Lieutenant Wyatt Rawson.
  George Bryant, 1st cl. P.O.[7]
  George Stone, 2nd cl. P.O.
  Michael O'Regan, A.B.
  James Hand, A.B.[8]
  Thomas Chalkley, A.B.
  Alfred Hindle, A.B.
  Elijah Rayner, private R.M.L.I.

The following "means" of ages, weights, and chest capacities of those
belonging to the "Alert" may be of interest:--

                                            Chest
                    Age.        Weight.    Capacity

  Officers       32.1 years    149.8 lbs.    266
  Men            27.4  "       146.6  "      245.1
  General Mean   28.4  "       147.3  "      249.5


FOOTNOTES:

  [1] Promoted to carpenter.

  [2] First class petty officer.

  [3] Lost in H.M.S. "Eurydice."

  [4] Promoted to boatswain.

  [5] Died on May 14th from the effects of frost-bite whilst sledging.

  [6] Died on the 8th of June of scurvy whilst sledging.

  [7] Promoted to boatswain.

  [8] Died in June of scurvy whilst sledging with Lieut. Beanmont.




CONTENTS.


                                                     PAGE
  DEDICATION                                            v

  PREFACE                                             vii

  OFFICERS AND SHIP'S COMPANY OR H.M.S. "ALERT"        xi

  CHAPTER I. FITTING OUT.

Description of ships, 2; special fittings, 3; selection of officers and
men, 5; kindness of friends, 6; games and musical instruments, 7;
visitors to the ships, 8; departure, 9; arrival at Bantry Bay, 12; the
voyage commenced, 13.

  CHAPTER II. THE VOYAGE TO DISCO.

Tests of physical capacity, 15; regular issue of lime-juice, 16; gales
of wind in the Atlantic, 17; slow progress, 19; whales, 20; the first
ice, 22; the Land of Desolation, 22; seals, 23; the Greenland coast, 25;
fishing for cod, 25; arrival at Godhavn, 26.

  CHAPTER III. THE GREENLAND SETTLEMENTS.

An Eskimo dance, 28; Eskimo dogs, 29; amusements at Godhavn, 30; ascent
of the Lyngenmarkfjeld, 31; aid from the "Valorous," 33; tradition of
Disco, 34; Ritenbenk, 35; part company with "Valorous," 36; the Waigat
Strait, 36; dangers in the Waigat, 37; Proven, 38; Hans Hendrik engaged,
39; "Sanderson, his hope," 39; Upernivik, 41.

  CHAPTER IV. MELVILLE BAY AND THE NORTH WATER.

Preparations for a nip, 43; the middle ice, 44; a bear hunt, 46; the
North Water, 47; Cary Island depôt, 49; approaching Smith Sound, 50;
enter Smith Sound, 51.

  CHAPTER V. SMITH SOUND.

Life-boat Cove, 53; visit winter quarters of "Polaris," 54; Littleton
Island, 55; Cape Isabella, 56; stopped by the ice, 57; Payer Harbour,
58; first experiences in sledging, 59; Twin Glacier Bay, 60; an Arctic
paradise, 61; tidal observations, 62.

  CHAPTER VI. STRUGGLES WITH THE ICE.

Open water, 64; in danger of a nip, 65; vigilance of Captain Nares, 66;
wanderings of the Eskimo, 68.

  CHAPTER VII. A WALRUS HUNT. DOG DRIVING.

Grinnell Land, 72; glaciers, 73; a walrus hunt, 74; amusements on the
ice, 77; the Eskimo dogs, 78; dog sledging, 80.

  CHAPTER VIII. SLOW PROGRESS THROUGH THE ICE.

Cape Hawks and Dobbin Bay, 83; discovery of an ancient cairn, 85;
cutting a dock, 87; struggles through the ice, 90; dangerous position,
91; Cape Fraser, 92; junction of two tides, 92; Cape John Barrow, 93;
Cape Collinson, 94; heavy squalls, 95; increasing thickness of floes,
96; icebergs decreasing in number, 96.

  CHAPTER IX. KENNEDY CHANNEL.

Cape Constitution, 98; difference in appearance of coast-lines, 99; Hall
Basin blocked with ice, 100; Bessels Bay, 100; Hannah Island, 101; cross
Kennedy Channel, 103; musk-oxen, 104; winter quarters of "Discovery,"
107; the two ships part company, 107.

  CHAPTER X. THE CROSSING OF THE THRESHOLD.

Robeson Channel, 110; stopped off Cape Beechey, 113; Shift-Rudder Bay,
114; floe-bergs, 114; the first lemming, 115; marine shells above
sea-level, 116; depôt established at Lincoln Bay, 117; a fortunate
escape, 119; crossing the threshold, 119; finally stopped by ice, 121;
the Frozen Ocean, 122.

  CHAPTER XI. FLOE-BERG BEACH.

Saved by floe-bergs, 125; precarious winter quarters, 126; a
reconnaissance in dog-sledges, 128; habits of Eskimo dogs, 130;
Dumb-bell Bay, 131; eider-ducks, 132; two boats advanced northwards,
133; a severe march, 134; danger of the ship, 134; unable to move, 135;
autumn sledging commenced, 136.

  CHAPTER XII. AUTUMN TRAVELLING.

Autumn travelling, 138; discomforts, 139; liability to frost-bites, 142;
difficulties, 145; cheerfulness of the men, 146; highest position
reached in the autumn, 147; frost-bites, 147; return of travellers, 149;
results, 150.

  CHAPTER XIII. WINTER QUARTERS.

Preparations for winter, 152; observatories, 153; snow houses, 154; the
ship "housed" in, 154; interior arrangements, 156; winter clothing, 159;
precautions against fire, 161; observations for temperature, 162.

  CHAPTER XIV. THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE.

Printing-office, 164; school, 166; amusements, 167; Thursday pops, 168;
lectures, 169; the Royal Arctic Theatre, 170; the prologue, 172;
conjuring entertainment, 175; magic-lantern exhibition, 176.

  CHAPTER XV. WINTER OCCUPATIONS AND AMUSEMENTS.

Departure of the sun, 178; Guy Fawkes' Day, 179; scientific
observations, 180; the moon, 181; open-air exercise, 181; inconvenience
from drip, 182; fluctuations of temperature, 183; movement of the ice,
184; celebration of birthdays, 185; bill of fare, 185; fresh meat, 186;
Divine service, 187; medical inspections, 187; tabogganing, 187; Nellie,
189; a lost dog, 190.

  CHAPTER XVI. AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS.

Preparations for Christmas Day, 193; Christmas presents, 194; Christmas
Day, 195; retrospect, 197; frost-bite patients, 198; precautions against
frost-bite, 199; the Palæocrystic Sea, 200; a brilliant meteor, 200.

  CHAPTER XVII. A HAPPY NEW YEAR.

New Year's Day, 202; mustard and cress, 205; heavy snow-drifts, 206;
returning light, 207; severe cold, 208; an alarm in the observatory,
209; condition of the Eskimo dogs, 210; Nellie and the lemmings, 212;
Rawson's snow hut, 212; the last school meeting, 213; the last dramatic
performance, 214; the last "pop," 215; grand palæocrystic sledging
chorus, 216.

  CHAPTER XVIII. RETURN OF THE SUN.

Cairn Hill, 220; the sun's return, 221; intense cold, 223; experiments
on various substances during extreme cold, 223; daylight, 225; alarm of
fire, 226; dismantling the observatories, 227; the sledge-crews
exercised, 228; a wolf, 229.

  CHAPTER XIX. DETAILS OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING.

Preparations for sledging, 231; weights, 232; auxiliary sledges and
depôts, 234; tents, 235; cooking apparatus, 236; scale of provisions,
237; lime-juice, 238; medical instructions, 238; sledging costume, 239;
precautions against snow-blindness, 240; programme of sledging work,
241; boats to be carried by northern division, 244; names of sledges,
245.

  CHAPTER XX. THE JOURNEY OF EGERTON AND RAWSON.

Decide to communicate with "Discovery," 247; departure of Egerton and
Rawson, 248; their return, 249; Petersen frost-bitten, 249; heroic
conduct, 251; efforts to save Petersen, 251; difficulties of the return
journey, 253; Egerton's second start, 255; death of Petersen, 255.

  CHAPTER XXI. THE ROUTINE OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING.

Departure of the sledges, 258; first camp, 260; intense cold, 262;
arrival at the autumn depôt, 263; the parties separate, 264; duties of
cook, 265; sledging breakfast, 266; luncheon, 266; halting for the
night, 268; evenings in the tent, 270.

  CHAPTER XXII. THE NORTHERN DIVISION--TRAVELLING IN APRIL.

Heavy ice encountered, 273; road-making over the ice, 275; struggling
over hummocks, 278; daily routine, 279; continued cold, 280; excellence
of the sledges, 281; first symptoms of disease, 282; a gale of wind,
283; heavy snow-drifts, 285; disease increasing, 286; excellent conduct
of the men, 286; resolve to abandon one boat, 288; increased weight to
drag, 289; intense cold, 290; state of the floes, 291; cross the 83rd
parallel, 292; enormous hummocks, 293; hummocks and snow-drifts, 294;
tracks of a hare seen, 296; young ice, 296; enforced rest, 297.

  CHAPTER XXIII. THE MOST NORTHERN POINT EVER REACHED BY MAN.

Scurvy, 299; difficulties increasing, 300; struggling northwards, 301;
hummocks discoloured by mud, 301; condition of party, 303; issue of
lime-juice, 304; scorbutic symptoms, 305; the last advance, 306; most
northern encampment, 307; soundings obtained, 308; the most northern
position ever reached by man, 309.

  CHAPTER XXIV. RETURN OF THE NORTHERN DIVISION.

Homeward bound, 312; increased sufferings, 314; courage of the men, 316;
extreme weakness of the men, 316; abandonment of the second boat, 318; a
snow-bunting seen, 319; the land reached, 321; Parr despatched for
succour, 322; a stray dog, 322; death of Porter, 323; his burial, 323;
saved, 325; return on board, 326.

  CHAPTER XXV. RETURN OF ALL THE SLEDGE TRAVELLERS.

Causes of scurvy, 329; anxiety for Aldrich, 331; May sent to his rescue,
331; return of Aldrich, 332; care of the sick, 333; the welcome back,
335; decide to return to England, 337; musk-oxen, 338; shooting parties,
338; liberation of the ship, 341; under weigh, 342.

  CHAPTER XXVI. THE RETURN VOYAGE IN THE ICE.

Preparations for abandoning ship, 344; communicate with "Discovery,"
345; discovery of Eskimo relics, 347; a severe nip, 348; critical
situation of ship, 349; Discovery Harbour, 349; return of Beaumont, 350;
a frozen cave, 350; "Alert" forced on shore, 351; struggles with the
ice, 352; pass Cape Fraser and Dobbin Bay, 353; a seal and fox shot,
354; reach the open sea, 354.

  CHAPTER XXVII. HOMEWARD BOUND.

Cape Isabella, 357; letters from home, 358; bad weather, 359; Whale
Sound, 359; off Lancaster Sound, 360; reappearance of fulmar petrels,
361; reach Godhavn, 362; receive letters from England, 363; leave
Godhavn, 363; Egedesminde, 364; sight the "Pandora," 366; arrive at
Valentia, 367; at Queenstown, 367; welcome home, 368.

  INDEX                                   _Page_ 371




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

FULL-PAGE PLATES.


                                            PAGE
  "ALERT" AND "DISCOVERY"          _Frontispiece_
  POLAR BEARS                        _To face_ 46
  WINTER QUARTERS H.M.S. "ALERT"              151
  HIGHEST NORTHERN CAMP                       308
  REDUCING A FLOE-BERG                        349
  H.M.S. "ALERT" FORCED ON SHORE              351


SMALLER WOODCUTS.

  SEALS BASKING ON THE ICE                     23
  ESKIMO WOMEN                                 28
  WALRUSES                                     75
  CAPE HAWKS                                   84
  PLAN OF ICE DOCK                             88
  "THE MOANING OF THE TIED"                    89
  MUSK OXEN                                   105
  KNOTS                                       111
  DOG-SLEDGE IN DIFFICULTIES                  131
  START OF THE AUTUMN SLEDGES                 143
  DIAGRAM OF MAGNETIC OBSERVATORIES           153
  FLAG-STAFF POINT (CAPE SHERIDAN)            155
  ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE--SCENE FROM "ALADDIN
    AND THE WONDERFUL SCAMP"                  170
  NELLIE                                      189
  LEMMINGS                                    212
  CAIRN HILL                                  220
  SLEDGE UNDER SAIL                           231
  DOGS AND SLEDGE                             247
  GETTING READY TO "BAG"                      269
  CHART OF OUTWARD AND RETURN TRACKS          274
  INTERIOR OF TENT                            280
  A PACKED SLEDGE                             281
  SNOW-BUNTING                                319
  BRENT-GOOSE AND EIDER-DUCKS                 340
  ALLMAN BAY                                  355
  FULMAR PETRELS ("MOLLIES")                  361
  FAREWELL!                                   369

     *     *     *     *     *

  MAP SHOWING THE DISCOVERIES OF THE ARCTIC
    EXPEDITION, 1875-6              _To face_   1


[Illustration: ARCTIC EXPEDITION 1875-76.]


THE GREAT FROZEN SEA.




CHAPTER I.

FITTING OUT.


  "Vitailled was the shippe, it is no drede,
   Habundantly for hire a ful long space:
   And other necessaries that shuld nede
   She had ynow, heried be Godde's grace:
   For wind and weather, Almighty God purchace,
   And bring hire home, I can no better say
   But in the see she driveth forth hire way."

     CHAUCER (_Man of Lawe's Tale_).

The above quaint lines, written five hundred years ago, well describe
the scenes that were being enacted during the months of April and May,
1875, in Portsmouth Dockyard.

Busy as this great naval depôt of England almost always is, it is
seldom, in peace time, that so much interest is shown in the equipment
of two small steam-vessels as was the case with regard to those that
were then lying "all a taunto" in the steam basin of that extensive
yard.

The names of those comparatively small ships were the "Alert" and the
"Discovery," their destination the unknown North.

Although of insignificant size, in comparison with the huge ironclad
monsters by which they were surrounded, yet a close observer would
readily detect signs of great strength in these two business-like
looking vessels. And very necessary was it that they should possess
strength and powers of resistance of no ordinary kind, for they were
destined to grapple and fight with the heavy and unyielding ice floes of
the Polar Ocean.

The two ships had been very carefully selected and fitted for the
important work in which they were about to engage. The "Alert" was a
17-gun sloop, and had already served two or three commissions on foreign
stations before she was converted for Arctic service. The "Discovery"
was built in Dundee for the whaling and sealing trade, in which she had
been engaged for a short time off the coast of Newfoundland, before she
was purchased for the Arctic expedition.

The "Alert" was thoroughly strengthened, and, under the supervision of
the Admiral Superintendent of the Dockyard (Sir Leopold McClintock),
adapted in every way for the hazardous service on which she was about to
be employed.

After a complete overhaul of her hull, all defective timbers and beams
were removed, and replaced by sound ones; extra beam power was
introduced; an external sheathing of seven inches of teak, tapering from
amidships to four inches forward and three inches aft, extending from
the keel to the waterways, was put on; whilst a longitudinal beam,
placed between the shelf-piece and the lower-deck waterway internally,
bound and strapped the whole ship together. Extra iron knees were
introduced in order more effectually to resist the enormous pressure of
the ice; and the stem was fortified outside with half-inch iron plates
extending to about ten or twelve feet aft, whilst inside the bow was
strengthened by numerous diagonal beams and dead-wood.

Between the inside planking and the lining were placed sheets of felt
for the promotion of warmth. New waterways, of a most substantial form,
were added; and the ship was divided into watertight compartments.

Two large davits projected over each quarter of the vessel, by the aid
of which the rudder, some three tons weight, was easily shipped and
unshipped when in danger of being damaged by the ice. On these occasions
it would be suspended horizontally over the stern from the davits.

Around the galley-funnel was an ingenious contrivance for making water,
consisting of a large reservoir to receive either snow or ice; this,
being dissolved by the heat from the fire underneath, is drawn off
through a tap at the bottom, thus providing our water supply. Like all
vessels employed in the whaling trade, both ships were fitted with
Pinkey and Collins' patent reefing and furling topsails; and each
possessed a steam-winch on the upper deck, capable of being utilized for
many purposes.

At the maintop-gallant-mast-head of each vessel was a large barrel-like
object. This was the crow's nest, a very necessary item on board all
ships destined to navigate the icy seas. Both ships were barque-rigged,
and were supplied with the ordinary contrivances used on board
short-handed merchant vessels to facilitate the work.

They formed, indeed, a curious contrast to the heavily rigged but trim
men-of-war, which, with their tapering spars and faultlessly squared
yards, lay in the harbour near them.

Each vessel was supplied with nine boats of various shapes and sizes,
specially designed and constructed for the service peculiar to Arctic
waters. Two of these were completely equipped for whaling, so as to be
able to follow and capture walruses and narwhals. They were both fitted
with harpoon-guns fixed on swivels in the bows. The ice-boats were three
in number for each ship, and were built as light as it was possible to
make them. Paddles were supplied, by which they could be propelled, as
well as oars. They were all carvel-built boats, and the bows of each
were armed with a broad sheet of copper as a protection from the ice.

The figure-heads of each ship, like their fittings, were exactly
similar. They were what are commonly called "fiddle-heads," having the
Union Jack painted on them, and underneath the word _Ubique_; and to no
flag can that word be more truly and more appropriately applied.
_Everywhere_ is it to be found, even beyond the limits of the abode of
man!

The clothing and provisions supplied to the ships were in a great
measure regulated according to the establishments by which preceding
expeditions had been fitted out, and were almost identical in texture
and quality.

Great care was taken in the selection of both officers and men, and none
were appointed until they had undergone a searching medical examination
as to their fitness for Arctic service, several being rejected who had
the appearance of being fine and eligible young fellows. The slightest
defect, such as bad teeth or old wounds, was a sufficient pretext for
refusing the services of otherwise apparently strong and healthy men.
Numerous were the volunteers that came forward, rendering the task of
selecting a few from the number of eager willing men that presented
themselves one of no little difficulty.

Their social and moral qualifications were as strictly inquired into as
was their physical condition; and men of a happy and genial disposition
were selected in preference to others who appeared morose and taciturn.

"Can you sing or dance? or what can you do for the amusement of others?"
were questions invariably addressed to candidates for Arctic service by
the board of officers appointed to select from the numerous applicants
who presented themselves.

The ray of pleasure that lighted up the faces of those individuals who
were informed that they were to be of that small chosen band, indicated
most clearly the popularity of the enterprize amongst the men of the
Royal Navy; whilst the disappointed ones, and they were many, showed
only too plainly the mortification they experienced at being rejected.
As an instance of the eagerness evinced by the men to be employed in the
expedition, a gallant captain commanding a ship at Portsmouth called at
the office where the men were being entered, and requested advice. He
said, "An order has come on board my ship, directing me to send
volunteers for Arctic service to this office. What am I to do? The whole
ship's company, nearly eight hundred men, have given in their names!"

This is merely mentioned in order to show the amount of interest taken
by the whole navy in the cause for which the ships were being equipped.

The ships' companies being completed, officers and men were
unremittingly engaged in the various duties incidental to fitting out.
Provisions and stores, sufficient to last for three years, had to be
received on board and stowed away. There was no waste space on board
either vessel. Every little nook and corner was destined to be the
receptacle of some important article. The ships gradually settled down
in the water as the weights on board accumulated, until they appeared to
be alarmingly deep, whilst much yet remained unstowed. The Admiralty
had, however, provided for this emergency. The "Valorous," an old
paddle-wheel sloop of good carrying capabilities, was ordered to convey
all surplus stores, that could not be stowed on board the two exploring
vessels, as far as the island of Disco, on the west coast of Greenland.

This was a very wise and necessary precaution, as it would be obviously
unsafe to cross the Atlantic in boisterous weather, laden as the two
ships undoubtedly would have been if they had received no assistance
from a third vessel in the conveyance of their stores.

Through the kindness and generosity of our friends, and of those who
more especially interested themselves in the progress of Arctic
discovery, we received many useful and valuable gifts. Her Majesty and
the members of the Royal Family testified, in a substantial manner, the
deep interest they took in the enterprize. The name of her Imperial
Majesty the Empress Eugénie must always be associated with the
expedition as one of its warmest friends. Her kind and considerate
present, consisting of a fine woollen cap for each individual,
contributed materially to our comfort whilst engaged in the onerous
duties of sledging.

To mention the names of all our generous benefactors would require a
chapter to itself. Books, magic lanterns, a piano, pictures, and money
came pouring in from all sides; but smaller and less valuable, though
not the less appreciated, gifts were also received. A small case, with
the superscription, "A Christmas box for my friends on board the
'Alert,'" and containing four bottles of excellent punch, and a little
parcel of well-thumbed books and periodicals, showing undoubted signs of
having been well perused, but which came with the "best wishes of a
warrant officer, himself an old Arctic explorer," were accepted with as
much pleasure and gratitude as were the more costly presents.

Games of all descriptions, to while away the long evenings of a dark and
monotonous winter, were purchased; whilst a complete set of instruments
for a drum-and-fife band was also added to the long list of our
necessaries.

In devoting a certain sum of money to the purchase of musical
instruments and games, wherewithal to amuse ourselves, we were only
following an example set us many years ago; for when Sir Humphrey
Gilbert sailed in 1583, for the purpose of discovering new lands, and
planting Christian colonies upon those large and ample countries
extending northward from Florida, we read that, "for the solace of our
people, and allurement of the savages, we were provided of musicke in
good varietie; not omitting the least toyes, as morris dancers, hobby
horses, and many like conceits, to delight the savage people, whom we
intended to winne by all faire meanes possible."

We also hear, when that brave old navigator John Davis undertook his
first voyage in 1585, with his two frail little barks, the "Sunneshine"
and the "Mooneshine," that in the first-named vessel were twenty-three
persons, of whom four were musicians--a large band in proportion to the
complement of officers and men.

In spite of the bustle and confusion that are inseparable from the
preparation of such an expedition, in spite of fresh paint and tarry
ropes, several thousands of visitors came on board before sailing, to
the no small hindrance of the work; but it is feared that many others,
owing to the stringent regulations that it was necessary to issue in
order to have the vessels ready by the appointed time, were compelled to
return to their homes without having the satisfaction of saying that
they had been on board the Polar ships. Amongst those who honoured the
vessels with a visit were his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, his
Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh, and her Imperial Majesty the
Empress Eugénie.

The entertainments given in our honour were very numerous; many were
almost regarded as _farewell_ banquets.

We were looked upon as public property; our hospitable countrymen, in
the generosity of their hearts, never thinking that we should like to
spend our last few days in England in peace and quietness amongst our
own friends, wished to feed us on the fat of the land, and send us to
sea suffering from that worst of all complaints, dyspepsia, accompanied
perhaps by _mal de mer_.

At length all preparations were completed. The day originally assigned
for the sailing of the expedition, the 29th of May, dawned grey and
misty, with dashes of rain falling and lying in little pools on our
freshly painted deck. During the forenoon we were honoured by a visit
from the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, who came to bid us
farewell and success on our mission. This was the last official visit
paid to the vessels. At its termination officers and men were left
pretty much to themselves, so that their last few hours in England might
be spent with their own relatives. Four o'clock in the afternoon was the
hour named for the departure of the ships, and punctual to the very
minute they cast off from the dockyard jetty. The last embrace had been
taken, the last fervent farewell had been wished, and, a good omen for
the coming voyage, as the vessels steamed out of Portsmouth Harbour, all
clouds cleared away, and the sun shone out bright and joyous. During the
day crowds had been flocking from all parts of England in order to add
their voices to those of other well-wishers to the enterprize. Seldom
before in that famous seaport town, although the centre of many stirring
events, had such a scene been witnessed. Thousands of spectators were
congregated along the sea-face extending from the dockyard to Southsea
Castle, and on the opposite shore of Gosport, to witness our departure;
and cheer after cheer pealed forth from the assembled multitude as we
slowly threaded our way amongst the numerous yachts and pleasure boats
that had collected to bid us Godspeed. A small thin line of red, hardly
to be distinguished amidst the more sombre hue of the holiday seekers'
dresses, denoted the troops of the garrison drawn up to do honour to
their comrades of the sister service, whilst their bands, breaking forth
with the soul-stirring strains of "Auld lang syne," found an echo in the
hearts of all connected with the expedition.

It was, indeed, a proud moment for us as we witnessed this unmistakeable
demonstration, and felt that we, a small but chosen band, had been
selected to carry out a national enterprize of such importance.

If anything was required to assure us of the popularity of our
undertaking, the spectacle that afternoon on Southsea Common was surely
a convincing proof.

There was but one responsive feeling in the hearts of every member of
the expedition, namely, a determination to deserve this confidence, and
to achieve, with God's help, such a measure of success as would prove
satisfactory to the country and creditable to the navy.

It will be long before that scene is effaced from our memories. Our last
view of Portsmouth was across a bright blue sea to a shore thronged with
an enthusiastic and cheering crowd waving a last farewell; whilst the
last glimpse our friends had of us was across the same blue sparkling
sea, the snow-white sails of our ships being lit up by the rays of the
setting sun.

Our feelings appeared to be reflected in the changes of the weather on
that, to us, memorable day. The rain and mist in the morning were
emblematical of the sorrow of parting; while when the sun burst forth
bright and joyous in the afternoon, we all felt assured that the work on
which we were about to be employed would be achieved, and that the
enterprize commenced under such bright auspices would terminate as well
and happily.

Nothing occurred to mar the departure; one incident only happened that
might have terminated disastrously and thrown a gloom over the little
squadron. Immediately after the pilot had been discharged, one of the
men of the "Alert," in the excitement and ardour of responding to the
cheers with which we were on all sides greeted, lost his balance in the
rigging and fell overboard. He was, however, quickly picked up and
brought on board none the worse for his immersion, although the
consternation excited by this mishap to a boatload of men and women, who
happened to witness the accident, nearly resulted in fatal consequences.
The half-drowned and thoroughly drenched man being restored to his
shipmates, the squadron having been joined at Spithead by the
"Valorous," rounded the Nab-light vessel, and before a fine fresh
north-easterly breeze spread their sails and steered down channel.

For many hours, however, they were escorted by a little yacht containing
the relatives of some few of the officers of the expedition, which
following in their wake reluctantly parted only when all further
communication was impracticable.

This, and a visit we received on the following morning from the brave
old admiral, the Commander-in-chief at Plymouth, when passing the port,
was the last sight of friends we were destined to enjoy for many a long
month.

We all felt that we had bidden them a long farewell, and from
thenceforth, as far as they were concerned, we could only live in the
happy memories of the past, buoyed up by hopes and aspirations as to the
future.

Experiencing fine weather, the anchors were dropped on the third day in
the snug little harbour of Berehaven, in Bantry Bay. The object of this
visit was to obtain our last supply of fresh meat, and our last budget
of letters from home. A farewell ramble on shore amongst green fields
and picturesque little farmhouses, where we were regaled with delicious
fresh milk, was also enjoyed, and a visit paid to some Druidical remains
near the long straggling village of Castletown.

And here, amongst the long green grass and by the side of clear rippling
rivulets, we gathered the last flowers of spring that would gladden our
eyes until after our return to our native shore. Carefully were these
floral treasures hoarded until an opportunity offered of transmitting
them to dear friends at home. It is related of one officer, who was so
fortunate as to gather several sprigs of "forget-me-not," and whose home
ties were, perhaps, not so attractive as those of others, that he
offered to barter small tufts of this precious little plant for a bottle
of beer, or a pot of cocoa and milk, the two latter articles being
excessively scarce on board the Arctic ships, and proportionately
valuable.

On the 2nd of June, the day following their arrival, the little squadron
once more put to sea. From that date the receipt of all letters ceased.
No more telegrams; no loving missives; all intelligence from home must
come to an end. We could live only for the future, and pray for a happy
and speedy return. Before nightfall the high and rugged coast of
Ireland had sunk below the eastern horizon, leaving nothing visible on
the apparently boundless ocean but our three ships as they were lazily
rocked by the long rolling swell of the broad Atlantic.

  "The vessel gently made her liquid way;
   The cloven billows flashed from off her prow,
   In furrows formed by that majestic plough;
   The waters with their world were all before."




CHAPTER II.

THE VOYAGE TO DISCO.


  "Now from the sight of land, our galleys move;
   With only seas around, and skies above.
   When o'er our heads descends a cloud of rain,
   And night with sable clouds involves the main,
   The ruffling winds the foaming billows raise,
   The scattered fleet is forced to several ways.
   . . . . . . . . . . And from our shrouds
   We view a rising land like distant clouds,
   The mountain tops confirm the pleasing sight."

     VIRGIL.

The next morning we found that on leaving England we had also left
behind bright sunshine and blue skies, and in their place gloomy grey
clouds were spread over us, while rain fell sullenly through the murky
air. This, with head winds, was our normal condition for many days.
Steam was occasionally raised during any lengthened periods of calm; but
the report from the engineer that steam was ready was, as a rule,
followed by a report from deck that a breeze was springing up, but
invariably from an adverse quarter.

On the 5th of June, in order to expedite our movements, the "Valorous"
received permission to ignore the presence of a senior officer and make
the best of her way to Disco; the "Alert" and "Discovery" continuing
their course together.

We were not many days together at sea before we discovered the good
qualities of our ship's company. There was a willingness about them that
could not fail to be appreciated, whilst the thorough good feeling that
seemed to exist was highly satisfactory. As a proof of the desire of
each one to assist his neighbour, it may not be out of place to mention
that the petty officers of the "Alert," a day or two after leaving
harbour, requested permission to take turns with the able seamen in
steering the ship, a duty from which, by their position, they are
usually exempt. It need hardly be said their wish was immediately
gratified.

During the passage our medical staff was busily engaged in ascertaining
the physical capacities of every individual member of the expedition.
These experiments were by some jokingly resented as an unauthorized
system of mental and bodily torture. Every one's age was carefully
noted; height and weight accurately ascertained; dimensions round the
chest measured; and by means of an instrument called a spirometer the
capacity of the chest was also obtained; a clinical thermometer was
inserted into the mouth and kept there for an apparently interminable
time for the purpose of ascertaining the temperature of the blood. The
treatment we were subjected to in the cause of science was thus
described by one whose acquaintance with the Royal Navy was only of a
few days' standing: "I was unceremoniously laid hold of and measured,
forced into a chair and weighed, was compelled to answer the most
impertinent questions regarding my age and connections; a horrid
instrument was kept in my mouth for an hour or more, and I was forced to
blow into a machine until not a breath of wind was left in my body!"
The results of all these experiments were duly registered, the intention
being to compare them with a similar examination on the return of the
expedition, in order to ascertain the effects of an Arctic life upon the
physical development of our bodies.

The appetites of the officers, rendered doubly keen by the fresh sea
air, were so inordinate as to cause serious anxiety in the mind of our
worthy caterer, who was fearful that the allowance of provisions would
never last the specified time, at the rate they were then being
consumed.

From the fifth day after leaving port lime juice was regularly issued to
every officer and man in the expedition. Being considered an
indispensable antiscorbutic, it was essential that precautions should be
adopted to ensure the certainty of each man drinking it daily. It was
therefore the practice to serve it out on the quarter-deck every
forenoon in the presence of an officer. This was never omitted during
the whole period that our expedition was absent from England. With one
or two exceptions the lime juice was drunk with pleasure by the men, and
the exceptions were gradually educated, by taking it in small
quantities, until their dislike was cured.

In consequence of the limited stowage capacity on board, the officers
were unable to provide themselves with a large stock of beer. A
considerable quantity of wine and spirits, however, was laid in; but as
an anticipated absence of three years had to be provided for, we were
restricted to an allowance of two glasses of sherry per diem, a glass of
port or madeira once a week, and a bottle of brandy or whiskey about
every fourteen or fifteen days. On birthdays or fête days we were also
indulged in a glass of port wine after dinner.

Ten hogsheads of Allsopp's ale, brewed especially for the Arctic
Expedition, were provided by Government and formed part of the ship's
stores. It was grand stuff--"strong enough," as one of the men observed,
"to make our hair curl!"

We were not destined to enjoy fine weather long, and our passage across
the Atlantic was by no means a pleasant or a comfortable one. Gale
followed after gale. If they had only blown from the right quarter we
should have been happy, but we had no such luck, they were sure to come
ahead!

What a lively ship was the "Alert"! making it utterly impossible to keep
anything in its place. It was decidedly annoying, one day, when I
entered my cabin to find my nice smart crimson table-cloth drenched with
ink; but it was no use repining, and I could only exclaim, with Lord
Dorset--

  "Our paper, pens, and ink, and we,
   Are tumbled up and down at sea."

Liveliness was not her only peculiarity, she was likewise excessively
wet, and although battened down carefully it was impossible to keep the
water from going below. To those who are uninitiated in nautical terms
it must be explained that "battening down" means the careful closing and
covering with a tarpaulin of every skylight and hatchway, in order to
prevent the water from finding its way below. In spite, however, of
these precautions, it is excessively difficult to keep the lower deck of
a small ship dry during heavy weather.

On the 13th it was blowing furiously with a terrific sea, and we were
compelled to "lay-to" under very reduced canvas. During the night a
large steamer, supposed to be bound for Quebec, passed close to us, so
close indeed that we were compelled to burn blue lights in order to
denote our position, so as to avoid collision.

On the same night a heavy sea struck us, and washed away our starboard
whale boat. Our consort also suffered the same loss. Nearly all our
fowls, which were in hen-coops on the upper deck, were drowned; only two
escaping! Fresh meat being scarce the manner of their death did not
prevent their appearance on our table for some days. This gale had the
effect of dispersing our little squadron, nor did we again assemble
together until our arrival at Disco.

No sooner had we recovered from the effects of one gale, than we were
assailed by another. Our only consolation was, the very poor one of
trying to believe that these storms would eventually be the means of
assisting us in our passage through Melville Bay, by breaking up the ice
and blowing it out of Davis Straits!

The discomforts entailed by the perpetual bad weather did not in any way
check the ardour of some of the officers in their praiseworthy
endeavours to add to the scientific collections of the expedition. It is
related, but I will not vouch for the authenticity of the story, that on
one occasion, when the ship was labouring heavily, a huge sea washed on
board, finding its way down through the skylight into the ward-room,
where it splashed about from side to side with every roll of the ship.
An officer, a most zealous and enthusiastic collector in all branches
of natural history, being in bed at the time, thought that he detected
by the dim light of a lantern some interesting, and perhaps unknown,
specimens of zoology in the water. His landing net was immediately
called into requisition, and, from his bed, he succeeded in fishing up
some of these supposed wonderful organisms. The microscope was instantly
produced for the purpose of ascertaining the nature of his find, when,
to his great disappointment, he discovered they were simply grains of
buckwheat--part of the stock that had been laid in for our unfortunate
fowls!

Our progress was tardy. On more than one occasion we were actually
farther off Cape Farewell, the point of land we were striving to make,
than on the day previous!

As we approached Davis Straits, speculations were rife as to when and
where we should meet our first ice. The greatest eagerness was shown by
all on board to become acquainted with the enemy whose fastnesses we
were preparing to attack and from which we hoped to return victorious.

On the 25th of June, being still at some distance to the southward of
Cape Farewell, a vessel was sighted steering in the opposite direction
to ourselves. We passed at too great a distance to avail ourselves of
such a favourable opportunity of sending letters to England, though
there were many on board who showed an intense anxiety to communicate.
We suspected, and our reasoning proved correct, that this would be the
last vessel we should see for many a long day, and she was consequently
watched with a great deal of interest. She was, in all probability, a
homeward bound Peterhead vessel laden with _cryolite_. The cryolite is
a rare mineral and the sole one which has become an article of trade in
Greenland. It is found only in one single spot called Ivigtut in 61° 10´
N., imbedded like a massive body in the granitic rock, and not in veins
or strata. In 1857 a licence was granted to a private company for
working the cryolite, and in the first nine years 14,000 tons were
exported in 80 ship-loads. During the next nine years the total export
amounted to 70,000 tons. Cryolite is converted by a chemical process
into soda and an alumina unequalled as regards purity and fitness for
the art of dyeing.[1]

As we neared the waters of Davis Straits, whales were observed in great
numbers. They were principally what are called by the whalers
"bottle-noses." This species of cetacean is the _Hyperoodon rostratus_,
and is from twenty to twenty-six feet long, with teeth in the lower jaw.
The "bottle-noses" are seldom sought and captured by the whalers owing
to the small amount of oil that they yield, not more than a few
hundred-weight of blubber being derived from each one of this species. A
dead whale of the "right" or "Greenland" sort was also passed. What a
prize for a whaler this would have been; worth about £1,000! but of no
value whatever to us, so it was allowed to float by untouched. How the
mouths of our ice quarter-masters, all hailing from those essentially
whaling ports Dundee and Peterhead, watered as they beheld what by them
would have undoubtedly been considered a god-send! The evident look of
wonder, not unmixed with contempt, that showed itself upon their
countenances was truly ludicrous when they found that we were about to
pass so valuable a prize unheeded. This fish--for all "right" whales
(_Balæna mysticetus_) are denominated "fish" by those engaged in their
capture--had probably been struck by some whaler and, having succeeded
in evading its persecutors, had since died of its wounds; or else it had
been killed by the inveterate enemy of the whale the _Orca gladiator_,
or "grampus," sometimes called "sword-fish," which pursues and harasses
these harmless unoffending leviathans of the deep whenever opportunities
offer. The rorqual, or "finner" (_Physalus antiquorum_), was also seen;
it is easily distinguished from the right whale by the dorsal fin
peculiar to this cetacean, and from which it derives its name. The
rorquals are seldom captured, great difficulty being experienced in
killing these huge monsters, which are frequently known to measure as
much as ninety feet in length. Scoresby mentions one measuring one
hundred and twenty feet. Great as is their size, however, the amount of
blubber to be obtained from them is very insignificant. They feed upon
cod-fish (as many as eight or nine hundred have been found in the
stomach of one of these whales) and are constantly seen off the south
and west coast of Greenland.

A falling temperature on the 27th of June, and a peculiar light blink
along the horizon, gave us due notice of the immediate proximity of ice.
As the weather was thick and foggy extra precautions were adopted in
order to guard against coming into serious collision with any icebergs,
for, however beautiful these floating islands of ice may be during
bright clear weather, they are dangerous and formidable foes when near
and unseen.

True to the warning received, an iceberg was shortly afterwards
sighted, and by 4 P.M. the ship was steaming through loose detached
fragments of heavy floe ice.

It is impossible to describe the excitement that prevailed on board on
this first introduction of many among us to that icy world in which we
afterwards lived for fifteen months. To me it gave rise to reminiscences
of old times, but to the uninitiated it was an exciting scene, and was
gazed upon with intense interest.

The officer of the watch, desirous of having the honour of making the
ship first touch ice, and being also under the impression that a reward
of a bottle of champagne would be given to him who should first succeed
in doing so, steered straight for a heavy piece nearly submerged. His
efforts were crowned with success, but they were also accompanied by a
gentle admonition that for the future he should be a little more careful
of her Majesty's property, and avoid all such fragments as were likely
to knock a hole in the bows of the ship.

On the following morning we sighted the high, bold, and snow-capped
hills in the neighbourhood of Cape Desolation. This headland was so
called by that sturdy navigator, brave old John Davis, during his first
voyage of discovery in the year 1585. In his quaint manner he describes
"the land being very high and full of mightie mountaines all covered
with snowe, no viewe of wood, grasse, or earth to be seene, and the
shore for two leages into the sea so full of yce as that no shipping
cold by any meanes come neere the same. The lothsome viewe of the shore,
and irksome noyse of the yce was such as that it bred strange conceipts
among us, so that we supposed the place to be wast and voyd of any
sencible or vegitable creatures, whereupon I called the same
Desolation."

Icebergs were now constantly seen, some being of very considerable
dimensions, and looming in the distance like real islands. As one of our
men wittily remarked on seeing his first iceberg, it reminded him
strongly of the Isle of Wight (white)!!

The streams of ice through which the vessel was navigated were composed
of fragments of heavy pack ice, that had in all probability drifted down
the east coast of Greenland, and had been swept round Cape Farewell.
They were of very deep flotation, and great care had to be taken in
steering the ship through, so as to avoid striking these pieces more
than was absolutely necessary; so heavily laden was the ship, that the
force of the blows in some instances was very seriously felt.

[Illustration: SEALS BASKING ON THE ICE.]

Seals were seen basking lazily and dreamily on the ice, or following in
our wake, staring inquisitively at us with their large round eyes,
looking for all the world like human beings. The fabulous merman and
mermaiden seemed to us easily accounted for. The seals observed were of
two descriptions--namely, the _Pagomys foetidus_, or "floe-rat;" and the
_Pagophilus Groenlandicus_, the "saddle-back," or common Greenland seal.

Birds, common to these regions, hovered around, following us for days
together and breaking the solitude that surrounded us with their joyous
and gladsome presence.

The 1st of July was a beautiful, bright, clear, sunny day, and to us was
doubly welcome after the continuous bad weather which until now had been
our lot. Not a ripple disturbed the calm surface of the sea as it lay
blue and gleaming in the sunshine. Here and there a few small patches of
ice reminded us of our proximity to the Arctic circle, while a certain
sharp-bracing crispness in the air, together with a rather low
temperature, served to assure us that the high snow-covered land in the
distance was in reality "Greenland's icy mountains"--no hymnal myth as
supposed by many, but grand ranges, devoid of all verdure, wrapped in
their snowy mantle, and rising to an altitude of from two to three
thousand feet above the level of the sea, a majestic and sublime
reality.

By noon we were off the little Danish settlement of Fiskernaes, and
shortly afterwards passed that of Godthaab, but at too great a distance
to make out the buildings or any signs of inhabitants. It was at
Godthaab that Hans Egede landed on July 3rd, 1721, with his wife and
children, and commenced his noble and disinterested labour of love among
the Eskimos. The missionary institutions founded by Hans Egede and the
Moravians have gradually incorporated the whole population of Greenland
into Christian communities.

The appearance of this part of the coast of Greenland was very striking,
especially to those who were strangers to Arctic scenery. The mountains,
with their peaks so pointed as scarcely to admit of the snow resting on
their steep and almost precipitous sides, intersected by grand fiords
and gorges penetrating for miles into the interior, formed a magnificent
landscape.

To the great relief and joy of all, we were on this day rejoined by our
consort the "Discovery," who, like ourselves, had been roughly handled
by the tempestuous weather since we lost sight of her in the Atlantic.

Expecting to pass over the "Torske" banks, the dredge was prepared, and
fishing lines served out; every one busy stretching and fitting their
lines, and smacking their lips over an anticipated dinner of fresh cod
and halibut. Soundings in thirty fathoms having been obtained on one of
these banks, the ship was stopped and permission given to fish.
Immediately fifty or sixty fishing lines were over the side; but,
although our eager fishermen persevered for a couple of hours, no
capture rewarded their patience. The "wily cod" remained sullen at the
bottom, and could not even be induced to "nibble."

The dredge was also put over, and hauled in with unimportant results,
only a few echinoderms being obtained.

During the night an iceberg of curious shape was passed. When first seen
it was reported as a sail; on approaching it a little nearer it assumed
the appearance of a huge column-shaped basaltic rock, and then that of
a lighthouse; for some time it was really believed to be the former.

On the 4th of July the Arctic circle was crossed. From this date, for
some weeks, we were to have continuous day. The nights had for some time
past been getting gradually shorter: now they had ceased
altogether--candles and lamps were no longer necessary, bright sunlight
reigned paramount.

Two days afterwards the expedition was safely anchored in the bay of
Lievely, off the little Danish settlement of Godhavn. Although small, it
is the most important establishment in the Inspectorate of North
Greenland, for here resides the Royal Inspector, who controls, with
absolute authority, the large mixed population of Danes and Eskimos who
inhabit this the most northern civilized land in the world.

A salute of nine guns, from a small battery of three diminutive
specimens of ordnance, welcomed our arrival, the smoke from which had
scarcely blown away before Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, came on
board, anxious to offer assistance, and desirous of extending the
hospitalities of his house to the members of the expedition.

Nothing could be more kind than the reception accorded us by the
inhabitants of this little settlement. Their sole desire was to please
and aid us in every way, and we were soon firm and fast friends with the
innocent and simple-minded residents.


FOOTNOTE:

  [1] See Dr. Rink's "Greenland," p. 79.




CHAPTER III.

THE GREENLAND SETTLEMENTS.


  "Behold I see the haven nigh at hand,
   To which I meane my wearie course to bend;
   Vere the maine shete and beare up with the land,
   The which afore is fayrly to be kend,
   And seemeth safe from stormes that may offend."

     SPENSER.

It was with a very pleasing sensation of relief that we found the ship
once more at rest, after thirty-four days of such knocking about as is
seldom experienced at sea for so long a time without a break. The
rolling and pitching to which a small ship is subjected in a heavy sea
are never altogether agreeable, and the quiet and repose of a snug
well-protected harbour are welcomed even by the "veriest old sea-dog."
But, although free from the turmoil of the "angry waste of waters," our
short stay at Godhavn can scarcely be called a period of rest. Much had
to be done, coals had to be taken on board, and a nondescript quantity
of stores and provisions received from the "Valorous" and stowed away.

The days were long, however. We had arrived in the region where the
midnight sun shone almost as brightly and gave as much light as at
noonday; and if, in consequence, the men were kept longer at work than
they otherwise would have been, they felt themselves amply compensated
for their extra labour by the indulgence of a run on shore in the
evening, and an open-air dance with the dusky and light-hearted beauties
of the land.

[Illustration: ESKIMO WOMEN.]

Never did the deck of a man-of-war present such an untidy and confused
appearance as ours did after receiving the last cask from the
"Valorous." Casks and cases lay higgledy-piggledy amongst coals and
ropes. Such a scene as our upper deck presented would have been
sufficient to drive a smart first lieutenant distracted. We were,
however, all much too practical to think of appearances, our sole
thought was to be provided with enough of everything to guard against
all accidents. Between decks was a repetition of the scene above, and it
was with the greatest difficulty we could move from one part of the ship
to the other. To add to the pleasing state of the vessel twenty-four
Eskimo dogs--the number was afterwards augmented to thirty--were
received on board, to be used in our sledging operations. Such a howling
lot! No sooner did they arrive than a regular battle ensued, and we were
compelled for some days to tie up a few of the most pugnacious, in order
to secure anything like peace.

This state of affairs, namely, the incessant fighting and squabbling
amongst the dogs, continued until one had gained the acknowledged
supremacy by thrashing the whole pack. This happens in all
well-regulated dog communities. The conqueror is henceforth styled the
"king" dog; he rules his subjects with despotic sway, frequently
settling a quarrel between a couple of pugilistic disputants, reserving
for himself the best of everything in the shape of food, the other dogs
yielding their tit-bits with cringing servility, exerting a complete
mastery over his canine subjects, and exacting from them the most abject
homage. The dogs were kept as much as possible in the fore part of the
ship, and soon became great favourites with the men.

To take charge of this unruly pack, we obtained the services, through
the kindness and assistance of Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, of a
native Eskimo, who with his gun and kayak was duly installed on board in
the capacity of dog-driver and interpreter. He rejoiced in the name of
Frederic, and had the reputation of being a keen and successful hunter.
Although he could not boast of good looks, his bright cheerful face and
unvarying good temper soon made him a friend to all on board.

The novelty of a never-ending day, for the first time experienced by so
many in the expedition, sadly interfered with the natural time for rest
and sleep. Long past midnight would the sounds of music and mirth be
heard from the shore, as the dances were kept up with unabated vigour;
while shrieks of laughter and merriment would be heard afloat, as the
officers, indulging in aquatic tastes, would be seen rowing races in
small collapsible boats, or trying their skill for the first time in the
frail kayak. For the management of these latter fairy-like canoes great
caution is required--indeed, it is hardly possible to manage them
without much practice.

Our first lieutenant was, however, an exception to this rule, for owing
to experience acquired in canoes in various parts of the world, he
succeeded in the management of the kayak so admirably as to excite the
surprise and admiration of the natives. W----, another of our officers,
not to be outdone by his mess-mate, also tried his skill in one of these
little barks, but he had not paddled many yards before it capsized,
leaving him head down in the water, with his legs firmly jammed in the
boat. He would undoubtedly have been drowned before assistance could
arrive had he not shown a wonderful degree of presence of mind. So
securely was he fixed in his kayak, that it was only by unbuttoning his
braces and getting out of his trousers that he succeeded in extricating
himself from his dangerous predicament, leaving that article of dress
inside the kayak!

In spite of the multifarious duties connected with the ship, which kept
every one fully occupied, the pursuit of science was not neglected.
Several complete series of observations were obtained for the
determination of the magnetic force. Photographs were taken, and
geological and botanical collections were extensively made, whilst a
boat with the first lieutenant and our energetic naturalist proceeded
some little distance up the coast to a place called Ovifak for the
purpose of obtaining information regarding some "meteorites" reported to
have fallen there.

The desire of "stretching one's legs" after being cooped up on board
ship for so long was universally felt, and officers and men alike
enjoyed a scramble over the lofty volcanic cliffs which overlie the
gneiss in this part of the island of Disco.

The difficulty of the ascent of the Lyngenmarkfjeld, a range of hills
about two thousand feet in height, situated on the northern side of the
harbour, was amply compensated for by the view from its summit. Landing
in a pretty little bay, in which lay the remains of an old steam whaler,
the "Wildfire," that had fallen a victim to the ice some years ago, and
emerging from the rather dense, though stunted, vegetation that grows
luxuriantly at the base of these hills, the way led over precipitous
basaltic cliffs, until by dint of hard climbing the snow-clad heights
were reached.

The accomplishment of this task, however, was both arduous and perilous,
in consequence of the action of the frost on the rocks of which the
cliffs were composed; for on the slightest touch they often crumbled
away, rolling with a mass of _débris_ many hundreds of feet to the
bottom.

From the summit a glorious scene was revealed to us. The mainland of
Greenland, that land so "wonderfull mountaynous, whose mountaynes all
the yeare long are full of yce and snowe," was distinctly brought to our
view, whilst immediately at our feet was the picturesque settlement of
Godhavn, and the three vessels, resembling miniature toy-ships, lying at
anchor in its snug little harbour. The Whale-fish Islands, a group in
Disco Bay, lay spread out as it were on a map. Hundreds of icebergs
dotted the perfectly placid sea, and beyond them we could plainly
discern the great ice fiord of Jacobshavn with its gigantic discharging
glacier behind, and the mouth of its fiord almost choked with huge
fragments of ice, children of that same glacier. At brief intervals a
noise as of thunder or distant artillery announced the disruption, or
creation, of one of these wonderful islands of ice.

We were not, however, allowed to enjoy this glorious scene in quietness.
Our pleasure was marred by the attacks of swarms of musquitoes. These
irritating insects assailed us on first landing, and persecuted us
incessantly until we were again afloat.

  "A cloud of cumbrous gnattes doe us molest,
   All striving to infixe their feeble stinges,
   That from their noyance we nowhere can reste."

It was indeed hard to meet so far in the icy north our implacable
enemies of the tropics!

The descent was as dangerous, though perhaps not so laborious as the
ascent. Occasionally we were able to avail ourselves of patches of snow,
down which we slid, much to the astonishment and discomfiture of my dog
Nellie, who was at a loss to understand the means of our rapid progress,
and who rushed down after us barking frantically.

We were excessively fortunate in our weather during our brief stay at
Godhavn. We rejoiced in ceaseless sunshine, which lit up the surrounding
hills with a golden light, throwing deep dark shadows into the valleys
and ravines by which they were intersected, whilst the bright rays of
the sun glittering on the ice-strewn surface of the sea formed a scene
at once novel and sublime.

Our short stay at Godhavn will, I think, always be regarded with
pleasure by the members of the expedition. Nothing could exceed the
kindness we received and the hospitality that was extended to us by the
good people on shore, who appeared to vie with each other in their
endeavours to render our visit an agreeable one. Nor was it only from
the inhabitants that we received so much kindness. The captain,
officers, and indeed I may say the ship's company of the "Valorous" were
unremitting in their exertions to provide us with every necessary that
it was in their power to supply, for the furtherance of the arduous
service in which we were so soon to be engaged, depriving themselves of
many things that they thought would add to our comfort.

Although the Eskimos, according to Dr. Rink, and we can have no better
authority respecting the natives of Greenland, have a pretty fair talent
for writing and drawing, scarcely any traces of sculpture belonging to
earlier times remain, with the exception of a few small images cut out
in wood or bone, which had probably served children as playthings.
Notwithstanding the want of means for handing down to posterity and
retaining historical events amongst this interesting people, many
traditions and legends have been preserved. Among the number is one
relating to this island of Disco. It was supposed to have been situated
off the southern coast of Greenland, and in consequence of its cutting
off the inhabitants of the mainland from the open sea, a great dislike
was entertained for it; for, to live comfortably, an Eskimo must be in
the vicinity of the sea, so as to follow his usual avocation of seal
hunting.

The story relates that two old men, having set their wise heads
together, determined to attempt the removal of the island with the aid
of magic. A third old gentleman, however, desired to retain it in its
position. The first two, launching their kayaks, fastened the hair of a
little child to the island wherewith to tow it by; whilst the other,
from the shore, attempted to keep it back by means of a sealskin thong.
Desperately did the two kayakers labour at their paddles in their
endeavours to move the island, chanting their spells as they tugged at
the hair. But as resolutely did the third man hold on to his thong,
straining every nerve to render their exertions abortive; suddenly, to
his chagrin, the thong parted, and the island floated off, and was towed
away triumphantly to the northward, where it was deposited in its
present position.

Another tradition says it was removed from Baal's River to its present
site by a famous angekok, or magician, and that the harbour of Godhavn
is the actual hole in the island to which the tow rope was fastened.

On the afternoon of July the 15th, amidst much firing of guns and
dipping of flags, the little squadron steamed out of the harbour,
threading its way through innumerable icebergs, and passing along the
high snow-clad hills that adorn the southern end of the island of Disco,
proceeded towards the settlement of Ritenbenk, at which we arrived the
following morning. The scenery as we approached the anchorage was truly
magnificent. Lofty hills encompassed us on either hand, down whose steep
sides the water was pouring in rapid cascades, produced by the thawing
of the snow on their summits. How full of life and joy appeared these
bright sparkling streams as they seemed to chase each other in wanton
sport, skipping from rock to crag in their headlong career, until lost
in one large sheet of glistening spray that poured over the edge of a
precipitous cliff into the clear still water at its base!

Thousands of birds congregate along the inaccessible ledges of these
cliffs, perched in such precise order, and having such a uniformity of
colour, that they resemble regiments of soldiers drawn up in readiness
to defend their fortresses from the attacks of ruthless invaders. But
fresh food was at a premium, and the wretched looms were doomed to
suffer a long assault at the hands of our energetic sportsmen.

Other and more weighty matters also required our attention. We were to
bid farewell to the "Valorous" on the following morning. And with her we
should lose the last connecting link with home.

Letters had to be hurriedly finished, and then we had to bid adieu to
one to whose untiring energy the departure of the expedition was due,
who had been mainly instrumental in obtaining the sanction of Government
for its dispatch, and who, leaving the comforts of a home life, had
accompanied us thus far on our journey, sharing our discomforts, but
adding to our knowledge from his rich fund of information, and
enlivening our mess-table with his conversation and presence.

We felt, whilst he was on board, that we were not quite separated from
the civilized world. His departure made a chasm that it was difficult
for some time to bridge over, but the memory of him lived long amongst
us, and served to recall many a pleasant and happy hour.

At four o'clock on the morning of the 17th the "Valorous" steamed away
from us on her way to the coal quarries on the north side of the island
of Disco, and, two hours after, the "Discovery" and ourselves put to
sea, having increased the number of our dogs by purchasing several from
the natives at Ritenbenk.

The scenery in the Waigat, a strait separating the island of Disco from
the mainland of Greenland, is very grand. The channel was rendered
almost impassable from the number of icebergs of every fantastic form
and shape that lay scattered about, and which, although adding
materially to the beauty of the scene, made the passage one of no little
intricacy: indeed we very narrowly escaped losing all our boats on one
side of the ship by shaving a large iceberg a little too closely!

On one side were the high snow-clad hills of Disco, intersected by deep
and narrow ravines, whilst on the opposite side was a bold and lofty
coast with precipitous headlands ending in needle-shaped peaks and
separated by glaciers and fiords. Passing the beautiful large
discharging glacier of Itivdliarsuk, many minor ones opened to our view
as we sailed slowly past, presenting a panorama such as it would be
impossible to depict faithfully on canvas.

Several remarkable red patches, apparently of basalt, were observed on
the bare gneiss hills in the vicinity of Point Kardluk, which is noted
for the large quantity of vegetable fossils that have been found there,
and close to the petrified forest of Atanekerdluk.

Catching sight of the "Valorous" at anchor, busily engaged in procuring
coal, we endeavoured to reach her, for the purpose of sending a few
stray letters that had been inadvertently left behind; but a thick fog
overtaking us, we were very reluctantly compelled to relinquish all idea
of communicating, and had to be satisfied with reading the signal of
"farewell" and "good wishes" that she threw out. It was fortunately
distinguished before the vessels were effectually concealed from each
other by an impervious fog which crept over the surface of the sea,
hiding everything around us, though high above our heads the mountain
tops were clearly to be seen.

So dense did it become that we were, after a time, obliged to make the
ships fast to icebergs to await a more favourable opportunity of
advancing.

Whilst attempting to secure the ships an alarming catastrophe occurred.
The boat had been dispatched containing three men with the necessary
implements, such as an ice drill and anchor, for making the vessel fast.

As soon as the first blow of the drill was delivered the berg, to our
horror, split in two with a loud report, one half with one of our men on
it toppling completely over, whilst the other half swayed rapidly
backwards and forwards. On this latter piece was another of our men, who
was observed with his heels in the air, the violent agitation of the
berg having precipitated him head foremost into a rent or crevasse. The
water alongside was a mass of seething foam and spray; but curious to
relate, the boat with the third man in it was in no way injured. They
were all speedily rescued from their perilous position and brought on
board, sustaining no further harm than that inflicted by a cold bath.
Their escape appeared miraculous.

By the next morning we were through the Waigat Strait. Much to our
disappointment the weather remained thick, and we were in consequence
unable to gratify ourselves with a sight of the truly grand scenery to
be found at the mouth of the Omenak fiord, which possesses some of the
largest discharging glaciers in Greenland.

On the night of the 19th both vessels came to an anchor off the Danish
settlement of Proven.

The harbour, which is small, is formed by two islands. On the western
side of the easternmost of the two is situated the quaintest of quaint
little settlements. It consists of a neat little church, the Governor's
residence, the storehouse, boiling down establishment, smithy, about two
other wooden habitations, and some igdlus, or Eskimo huts. Of course it
boasts its flagstaff and battery of three guns. The Governor, who, in
his endeavour to be civil, had boarded us before anchoring, apologized
for not saluting, saying "that though he had the guns he had no
artillerists." Although it was midnight before we arrived, the
inhabitants were lining the side of the hill as we entered, the white
boots and fur jackets and short trousers of the women affording a very
novel though picturesque scene.

The dogs on shore, evidently annoyed at being disturbed in their
slumbers, set up a fearful howling, which, being answered by the dogs in
both ships, produced a most unpleasant and discordant concert. The
natives have a saying, when the dogs make this noise, "that they are
holding their parliament." This is hardly flattering to the Greenland
senate!

During our short stay at this place a rough survey of the harbour was
taken, and a number of scientific observations were made.

Nothing could be kinder or more friendly than the reception met with
from all on shore. In the Governor's good wife I recognized an old
acquaintance whom I had had the pleasure of meeting on a former occasion
during a cruise in a whaler to these regions.

Here also we succeeded in engaging the services of Hans Hendrik, an
Eskimo, as dog-driver and hunter. This man had been employed in the same
capacity in all the American expeditions to Smith's Sound, and was an
invaluable acquisition.

Our men enjoyed themselves every evening during our stay, dancing to
their hearts' content.

My black retriever, Nellie, was a great object of admiration amongst the
inhabitants, one man especially being very pertinacious in his request
that she might be presented to him. On inquiring to what use he would
put her, I was informed that my faithful companion would be converted
into food for the man's oily-faced family, whilst her beautiful black
curly coat would serve to adorn his wife's person. Nellie, I think, had
some notion of the designs on her life and skin, as in future she always
regarded with disfavour not only the Eskimos themselves, but also their
dogs and everything belonging to them.

Leaving Proven on the evening of the 21st of July, we arrived on the
same night off a remarkable headland called "Sanderson, his hope." It
was so named by old John Davis, after his friend and patron, Mr. W.
Sanderson, in 1587, and was the extreme northern point reached by him
during his third voyage.[1]

This prominent and precipitous cliff is a famous place for looms, as
those white-breasted guillemots are termed, which are considered such
rare delicacies on an Arctic table. They are the _Uria Brunnichii_ of
naturalists, and are numerous in sub-Arctic regions. Their favourite
breeding-places are along these terraced cliffs, where they assemble in
large quantities.

Of course so favourable an opportunity of procuring fresh food was not
to be disregarded. The ships were hove to, and the boats, crammed with
eager sportsmen, dispatched for the purpose of shooting for the "pot."

Myriads of these birds were congregated along the face of the steep
precipitous cliffs, in some places almost overhanging, which rose
abruptly to an altitude of about a thousand feet. Owing, however, to the
unsteadiness of the boats, caused by the roughness of the sea, our "bag"
did not realize our anticipations. Many of the birds that were shot
remained on the inaccessible ledges of the rocks, and were therefore
lost to us; and many fell into the sea beyond, and were no more seen.

The midnight sun was shining brightly during this _battue_, and we
returned to the ship, after a couple of hours' sport, the richer by one
hundred and seventy birds, each equal in weight to a fair-sized duck.
For the succeeding three or four days we revelled in "loom soup," "loom
pie," or "roast loom," and looms cooked in every imaginable form. No
matter how they were served up, they were always pronounced to be
delicious. Indeed, one of my messmates went so far as to say that he had
never tasted anything better in his life. In fact, for the purpose of
thoroughly enjoying a good dinner, a trip to the Arctic regions is
indispensable!

On the following morning we anchored off Upernivik,[2] the most northern
settlement but one in Greenland. It is situated on one of the Woman
Islands, so named by Baffin in 1616. The usual kindness and hospitality
were extended to us here, as at all the other Danish settlements
visited. We also received important information concerning the state of
the ice to the northward, with a tabulated statement of all the
meteorological observations obtained during the previous winter, a study
of which would be of the greatest importance to us.

In the evening, taking the "Discovery" in tow, we again put to sea, this
time finally bidding farewell to civilization. From henceforth our
energies and our thoughts must turn Polewards.

As the last glimpse of the little church was shut out from our view,
many a prayer was silently offered to Him in his infinite mercy to
protect and guide us in our endeavours, and to vouchsafe us a safe
return again to home and civilization.


FOOTNOTES:

  [1] On his return to England he wrote to his friend, saying, "I have
    been in 73°, finding the sea all open and forty leagues between land
    and land. The passage (the N.W.) is most probable, the execution
    easie, as at my coming you shall fully knowe."

  [2] It is sometimes spelt Uppernavik. But Upernivik is the correct
    form. See Rink, p. 354. It means spring in the Eskimo language.
    Upernivik is in 72° 48´ N. The most northern Danish station is
    Tasiusak, in 73° 24´ N.




CHAPTER IV.

MELVILLE BAY AND THE NORTH WATER.


  "Embark with me, while I new tracts explore,
   With flying sails and breezes from the shore.
   Not that my song, in such a scanty space,
   So large a subject fully can embrace.
   Not though I were supplied with iron lungs,
   A hundred mouths, filled with as many tongues.
   But steer my vessel with a steady hand,
   And coast along the shore in sight of land.
   Nor will I try thy patience with a train
   Of preface, or what ancient poets feign."

     VIRGIL.

Threading our way through narrow passages between numerous islands that
lay to the eastward of Upernivik, and trusting to the knowledge and
guidance of an Eskimo pilot, we felt at length that we had in reality,
seen the last for some time, of our fellow men, and that our struggle
with the almost insuperable difficulties of the frozen north was about
to commence.

Preparations for an unsuccessful combat with the ice were made, and
every precaution was adopted necessary to ensure the safety of the men,
in cases of extreme emergency. The boats were prepared for immediate
service, each man having his allotted station, so that little or no
confusion would ensue if the abandonment of the ships should be decided
upon--an event that was by no means improbable. Ice-saw crews were
organized in readiness for cutting a dock, in case such a proceeding
should become necessary for the protection of the vessels. Provisions
and clothes were so arranged along the upper deck that they could easily
and readily be thrown out on the ice at a moment's notice. Knapsacks,
each containing two pairs of blanket wrappers, one pair of hose, one
pair of stockings, one pair of mitts, one pair of drawers, a Welsh wig,
a jersey, a comforter, a pair of moccasins, a towel and small piece of
soap, were packed and placed in some handy position where they could be
reached without delay. The necessary tackles for lifting the screw and
unshipping the rudder were provided: in fact every preparation was made
that could possibly be thought of to guard against accidents and to
promote success in the forthcoming conflict.

On the morning after leaving Upernivik, on account of a dense fog, it
was determined to anchor off one of the small islands composing a group
through which we were passing, in order to wait for finer weather.

Our pilot, getting into his kayak, offered to pioneer us into a little
bay with which he was intimately acquainted. Being totally unable to
realize the difference of size between the large unwieldy "Alert" and
his own frail little bark, and probably imagining that where he was able
to go in his tiny boat, we also could do the same, he led us close in to
the land, which, on account of the thick fog, was hidden from our view,
and we soon had the annoyance of finding our ship hard and fast on
shore. Fortunately we were going very slow at the time, so that no
injury was sustained; but we remained immoveable for many hours until
the flood-tide floated us and enabled us once more to proceed.

The dangers connected with a passage through Melville Bay are now so
well known to all who have taken any interest in Arctic affairs, or who
have devoted any time to the perusal of Arctic literature, that it is
needless for me either to explain or dwell upon them at any length. Many
a well-equipped ship has been caught in the fatal embrace of this bay.
What tales of woe and disaster could its icy waters unfold, coupled,
however, with deeds of heroic daring, endurance, and suffering!

Captain Nares, determining to avoid the ordinary passage through this
once dreaded bay, the dangers of which in these days of steam have been
so materially lessened, pushed his ships boldly through what is
generally termed the "middle ice." This, at such a late season of the
year, is undoubtedly a wise course; but woe to the unfortunate ship that
at an earlier period should be caught in this moving pack, and be there
detained for thirteen or fourteen months, as the little "Fox" was, under
the command of Sir Leopold McClintock!

If the pack is composed of loose light ice, such as we found it to be,
rendering a passage through it one of no difficulty, it may also be
presumed that the ice in Melville Bay at the same time would be of the
same consistency, thereby also affording an easy and safe passage
through.

The reason that the passage by Melville Bay is always taken by the
whalers is the existence of fixed land ice, which is found adhering to
the shores, and in which it is easy to cut a dock for the preservation
of the ship if the heavy pack is forced by wind, or otherwise, towards
it, thereby endangering any vessel that may happen to be between the
two. Directly the pack moves off the vessel is liberated and proceeds on
her voyage.

It would be very different if the ship was caught in the pack. Then she
would, in all probability, be severely handled, and being beset would
drift to the southward with the ice and thereby lose all the hard-fought
ground gained with so much labour and fatigue.

One of the most important maxims in ice navigation, which is strictly
followed out by the whalers, is "stick to the land-ice."

We were certainly extremely fortunate in finding the pack so "loose" as
to give us little trouble or difficulty in making progress. The ice was
of a soft "brashy" nature, apparently only of one year's formation, and
only from one to three feet in thickness. The weather being fine and
calm, advantage was taken of it to steam full speed, for there was no
saying how quickly the ice might pack with even a light breeze. The tow
rope was accordingly cast off, and we proceeded at our highest rate of
speed with the "Discovery" following close at our heels.

Occasionally our progress would be checked by a stream of ice extending
across the lane of water through which we were steering; but through
these obstructions we bored, or charged them at full speed, and thus
cleared a way. A walrus and a few seals were seen on the ice, but their
capture did not hold out sufficient inducement to detain the ship.

Very different from the apathy shown on passing these animals was the
excitement exhibited when a bear, a veritable Polar bear, was seen on
the ice. Such a rush for rifles and weapons of all descriptions! It was
the first and only bear seen, and therefore the excitement its presence
caused was natural. Every one appeared to share in it. Bear-skins were
certainly on that day at a premium, for all were eager and anxious to
become the fortunate possessor of such a prize. Master Bruin, however,
did not reciprocate this feeling, and evinced an equal amount of anxiety
to retain his nice warm coat.

The engines were immediately stopped, and the boats crammed with
volunteer hunters. These landing on the ice, advanced upon their quarry
in skirmishing order, while the ship, steaming round to the opposite
side of the floe, endeavoured to cut off his retreat. All was
ineffectual. Bruin's strategic abilities were of too high an order for
us to cope successfully with him in his own territories, and he escaped.
Many rounds of ammunition, however, were fired at him both from the
party on shore and also by those on board the ship, in the faint hope
that a lucky shot might bring him down. To this day there are many who
seriously believe that he carried away with him a portion of the bullets
they so lavishly expended. So keen were some in the ardour and
excitement of the chase that they rushed on, heedless of the rotten and
treacherous nature of the ice, until an immersion in the cold water
brought them to a sense of their danger and compelled them to seek
refuge on board the ship, wet, cold, and uncomfortable. Many little
rotges (_Alca alle_) were flitting about from the ice to the water, and
the beautiful ivory gull (_Larus eburneus_) was also seen for the first
time.

[Illustration: POLAR BEARS.]

In thirty-four hours from first encountering the ice we reached the
North Water, and our troubles were for a time at an end. It was an
unprecedented passage. Only seventy hours from Upernivik to Cape York!

Melville Bay, with all its terrors, was behind us; a beautifully smooth
unruffled sea, devoid of all ice, was in front; everything pointed to
success, and the hearts of all in the expedition beat high with joy and
delight at the speedy prospect of attaining the utmost realization of
their hopes. Large icebergs were around us in every direction; but what
cared we then for icebergs? We had continuous day; the North Water had
been reached; our way lay northwards. In a few short days the entrance
of Smith Sound would be reached, the threshold of the unknown region
crossed, and then onwards to--where? We did not dare to anticipate, but
we felt that the first step towards success had been gained, and that we
had commenced our real work under most propitious circumstances. We
would not predict, but we determined to deserve, success.

It was, for many reasons, a matter of congratulation that this "North
Water" had been so speedily and so successfully reached. Instead of only
two or three weeks of the navigable season being available for us to
penetrate the hidden mysteries of Smith Sound, owing to our rapid
passage, we could reckon upon a clear month or five weeks before being
compelled to secure our ship in winter quarters; besides which, our fuel
had been very materially saved by this quick run, and this in itself, to
ships situated as we were, was no unimportant matter.

On reaching the neighbourhood of Cape York, the "Discovery" was ordered
to proceed shorewards for the purpose of communicating with the natives
(the Arctic Highlanders of Sir John Ross), in the hope of inducing one
of their number, a brother-in-law of Hans, to accompany the expedition;
the "Alert" in the mean time shaping a course to the Cary Islands, at
which latter place the "Discovery" was ordered to rejoin us.

The scenery, as we steamed along at a distance of about two miles from
the shore, was most interesting. The hills along the coast were entirely
clad with snow, whilst the long undulating ranges, as they receded far
back to the horizon, appeared to be buried under the everlasting _mer de
glace_. Numerous glaciers of various sizes, some of them being
discharging ones, rolled down to the water's edge in one vast icy sheet.
The width of one of these, the Petowik Glacier, is fully seven miles.
Fragments from these lay scattered along the coast in every direction,
whilst we had to thread our way through clusters of huge bergs of every
form and size. Passing the crimson cliffs of Beverley, we were able to
distinguish, in a few small patches, the so-called coloured snow whence
the name originates; but not in the highly imaginative mass of bright
colour depicted by Sir John Ross, in his interesting illustrated work
describing his voyage to Baffin Bay. The question of the nature of this
colouring matter on snow has now been definitely set at rest. It is an
alga, the _Protococcus nivalis_.

We did not reach the Cary Islands so soon as we expected, in consequence
of experiencing a strong S.E. current that had not been anticipated. A
sudden rise of temperature of the surface water naturally led us to
suppose that it must be due to the absence of ice, which, raising our
spirits, made us regard with displeasure any hindrance to our progress.

Arriving off the Cary group early on the morning of the 27th, we were
detained for a few hours landing a boat with a large depôt of
provisions, sufficient to sustain 60 men for two months, or 120 men for
one month. The depôt was placed on the easternmost island, and a large
cairn was erected on the highest and most prominent point. Here also
were deposited the last home letters which our friends were destined to
receive until after our own arrival in England.

The depôt was established as a safeguard for us to fall back upon in
case of any accident happening to our vessels in Smith Sound. From this
position it was expected that a party duly provisioned would have little
difficulty in reaching the northern Greenland settlements, or at any
rate the simple but hospitable natives of Cape York, who would, it was
anticipated, afford us protection and assistance. This duty having been
accomplished, and having been rejoined by our consort, the northward
course was resumed.[1]

Crossing over to the eastward we steamed along on that beautifully clear
sunny morning within a short distance of the western shores of
Greenland. With the exception of icebergs, not a speck of ice was to be
seen to disturb the smooth glassy surface of the sea. Passing the mouth
of Whale Sound we made rapid progress northwards, steering between
Northumberland and Hakluyt Islands, almost under their steep,
precipitous, and in some places overhanging cliffs; on past Murchison
Sound with the Crystal Palace glacier ahead, whilst on our port bow was
easily discernible the opposite coast of Ellesmere Land, with the Prince
of Wales Mountains, covered with snow or ice, rising above the western
horizon.

It was indeed a glorious sight as we passed close to this little known
land, opening out, as we proceeded, its many and large glaciers
glittering white and radiant in the sunshine, growing, as it were, out
of the clouds and rolling down grandly towards the sea, until the opaque
masses plunged sullenly and silently into the deep blue water.

Animal life, so far as the feathered tribes were concerned, appeared in
abundance. The lively little rotges or little auks (_Alca alle_) were
seen in frequent clusters diving quickly under water as the ship
approached. Looms (_Uria Brunnichii_), dovekies (_Uria grylle_), and
king-ducks (_Somateria spectabilis_), alarmed at our appearance, rose in
long flights, and circled around us uttering their discordant cries. The
glaucous gull and the pretty kittiwake (_Larus tridactylus_) soared
above our heads, whilst occasionally a graceful ivory gull (_Larus
eburneus_) flapped its way leisurely along, its snowy wings contrasting
with the background of clear blue sky. Here and there, on small
fragments of floating ice, were seen huge walruses basking in the golden
sunshine. Amid such scenes, which to be realized must be seen, the two
vessels wended their way towards the entrance of Smith Sound, all elated
with the fair prospect that was before them and hopeful for the future.

At half-past seven on the morning of the 28th of July both ships came to
an anchor in Hartstene Bay, more commonly known as Port Foulke, the
harbour in which Dr. Hayes wintered in 1860.


FOOTNOTE:

  [1] The Cary Islands consist of a group of eight islands, besides
    small rocks or islets, and are situated in Baffin Bay, in lat. 76°
    45´ N. They vary in size from two and a half miles in diameter
    downwards. They are composed of syenitic and porphyritic granite,
    overlaid in places with gneiss. They rise to a height of about 400
    feet above the level of the sea, and possess a luxuriant vegetation,
    at least for these regions. They are much frequented as breeding
    places by the eider-ducks and looms.




CHAPTER V.

SMITH SOUND.


  "Now far he sweeps, where scarce a summer smiles,
   On Behring's rocks, or Greenland's naked isles.
   Cold on his midnight watch the breezes blow,
   From wastes that slumber in eternal snow,
   And waft across the waves' tumultuous roar
   The wolf's long howl from Oonalaska's shore."

     CAMPBELL.

No sooner were the ships secured and breakfast discussed, than there was
a regular rush for the shore. Some went for a scramble over the
neighbouring glacier, named by Dr. Kane, "My brother John's glacier;"
some went to collect specimens; others to take various scientific
observations; and others to hunt and shoot--this spot having been found
wonderfully prolific of game, more especially of reindeer, during Dr.
Hayes's stay. No signs of any inhabitants were visible. This surprised
us, as we were fully expecting to meet the natives of the village of
Etah, situated only a couple of miles from the anchorage. A visit to the
village during the course of the day proved the huts to be standing, but
quite deserted. Traces of their having been recently inhabited were
manifest, and portions of seal and walrus meat were discovered in
_caches_, as if the migration was only temporary and a return was
meditated. No other signs, however, of any living human being were
found.

Leaving to others the exploration of the country in the immediate
vicinity of the harbour, Captain Nares and myself started, in one of the
whale-boats, with four men, for the purpose of visiting Life-boat Cove,
where some of the officers and crew of the "Polaris" spent their second
winter, 1872-3, and also to search for an iron boat on Littleton Island,
said to have been left there by Dr. Hayes in 1860.

Sailing round Sunrise Point, we encountered a fresh northerly wind dead
in our teeth, against which, under oars, we made but slow progress,
whilst the cold spray flew aft into our faces where it almost froze.
After about five hours' hard pulling Life-boat Cove was reached, and
very glad we all were to get on shore and stretch our legs and restore
the circulation of our blood.

Immediately on landing we met with traces of the late occupants. These
consisted of a large cairn--which, however, had been demolished by
others previous to our arrival, probably by the searching expedition
sent out in the "Tigress" in 1873--a basket lined with tin, and a trunk,
neither of which contained anything of importance; indeed, their
contents and the strong odour pervading them convinced us that they were
now the property of Eskimos. Strolling on a little further, a boat was
seen, which, although somewhat of European shape, appeared to be of
Eskimo construction, as it was simply a framework covered with skins;
yet it was undoubtedly built under a white man's superintendence.

Continuing to advance until we reached the western extreme of the spit
of land on which we had landed, we conjectured, from the amount of
_débris_ by which we were surrounded, although no remains of a house
were visible, that we were on the site of the Americans' winter
quarters. Trunks, boxes, stoves, pieces of wood, gun-barrels, and odds
and ends of all descriptions lay strewed about over an area of half a
square mile--a desolate scene of ruin and misery!

Some of the boxes were marked with the names of their previous owners,
and contained, amongst other things, books, principally relating to the
Arctic regions. One trunk contained a few small articles of female
apparel, such as a lace collar and black veil, and some faded ribbons;
souvenirs from some fair damsel at home, which had probably, from the
thoughts their presence created, beguiled many a long and lonely hour
during the monotonous winter night. Numerous cairns and _caches_, under
which were deposited lumps of seal blubber, led us to suppose that the
natives intended returning, especially with such a mine of wealth to
attract them as an abundance of wood and iron, so invaluable to an
Eskimo.

Two other boats were also found, constructed in the same rude manner as
the first. On one was painted, in good large letters, the word MAUMOKPO;
though what it meant we were at a loss to conceive, but concluded it was
an Icelandic name.

Two Casella thermometers, marked as low as 130° below zero, were also
picked up in perfect order. It is to be regretted that these were not
self-registering maximum and minimum thermometers, as it would have been
most interesting to have ascertained the greatest amount of heat and
cold at this spot during a period of more than two years.

Collecting everything that we considered of the least value, such as
books and instruments, for the purpose of returning them to the United
States Government, and taking possession of a couple of boats, which we
thought would prove useful at some of our depôts, we embarked and
proceeded towards Littleton Island, with our prizes in tow. Diligent
search was made for the pendulum said to have been left by the "Polaris"
people, but without success: also for the box chronometers and transit
instrument, but with a like result. We could only come to the conclusion
that, if these articles had been left there, somebody had been before
us. Every cairn and _cache_ was thoroughly examined, and so was every
nook and crannie within a radius of half a mile from where we imagined
the house had originally stood. A chronometer-box was picked up, but
empty.

On landing at Littleton Island a careful search was instituted for
Hayes's boat, but, although we made the complete circuit of the island,
we failed to discover any traces of it whatever. At the south-west end
we erected a cairn on the highest hill, about five or six hundred feet
above the level of the sea, and obtained a round of angles with the
theodolite. The view from the top of this hill was very cheering. Cape
Sabine was distinctly visible; whilst farther to the northward could be
seen the land about Cape Fraser, with _no signs of ice_! We were,
however, too wary to indulge to excess in hopeful anticipations, knowing
full well the vagaries of our capricious enemy, the ice; but still such
a scene could not but tend to cheer and exhilarate, and send us back to
our ship with light and buoyant hearts.

It was past midnight before we reached the "Alert." Our sportsmen, we
found, had been unsuccessful in their endeavours to shoot any reindeer;
one, however, fell to the rifle of an officer of the "Discovery." Very
few were seen, and those so wild as to render an approach within range
no easy matter. Several ducks and a few hares, however, were obtained.

Leaving Port Foulke on the following morning, we crossed over to the
west side, and erected a large cairn on the summit of Cape Isabella,
about one thousand feet above the level of the sea. The ascent of this
headland was both arduous and dangerous. The face of the cliff was very
precipitous, and it was only by a zig-zag course that it could be
effected. At one moment the way led over loose shingle, that gave way
under the feet at every step; at another over a broad patch of frozen
snow, one false step on whose slippery surface would precipitate one
many hundred feet below; and at another we were clinging desperately
with hands and feet to the hard, smooth, syenitic granite rocks, of
which this cape is composed. Very thankful were we when the summit was
reached; but much more so when we found ourselves again at its base,
sound in wind and limb. To add to the difficulties, there was a high
wind and dense snowstorm.

At a less high elevation, and in a secure niche amongst the rocks, were
deposited an empty cask and about one hundred and fifty pounds of
preserved beef. The cask was intended for the reception of any letters
that might be brought up by a Government ship in the following year, or
by any enterprising and adventurous whaling captain who should penetrate
so far in order to bring us news. The provisions were left as a small
depôt for any sledging party that might be dispatched to the southward.
The site was marked by a small cairn. Records were left at each of these
cairns detailing the movements and the prospects of the expedition,
together with instructions regarding our letters, should any be brought
thus far.

Some beautiful little yellow poppies were gathered on the slopes and
crests of the hill, whilst the draba and saxifrage were found growing in
profusion.

The navigation of these icy seas is most uncertain! Within twenty-four
hours of the time that, from the summit of Littleton Island, we had been
cheered by the view of an apparently open sea free of ice, and extending
in our imagination for miles to the northward, we were battling with the
pack, consisting of large floes and loose broken-up fields, that
extended on both sides of us and as far north as we could see. From this
period our troubles commenced; from this date our progress was one
endless and unceasing struggle with the ice: ever on the watch, and
never allowing a favourable opportunity to pass unheeded.

Shortly after leaving Cape Isabella the ice was observed stretching
across Baird Inlet--the fixed land ice with loose detached streams. As
we proceeded more ice was seen, which by degrees completely surrounded
us, and we only succeeded, after much boring and charging, in forcing a
way through, and into a well-protected little harbour to the southward
of Cape Sabine. This bay was formed by a deep indentation in the land
having a long jutting-out spit to the S.E. which acted as a famous
breakwater, and was protected seawards by Brevoort Island. Here we were
detained for five days, although several attempts were made to proceed,
which resulted in one instance in a hopeless besetment in the ice for
some hours. The pack was impenetrable; our only hope was to wait
patiently for a strong wind to open out a passage. The place was in
consequence called "Bide-a-wee" Harbour, subsequently changed to Payer
Harbour, after the distinguished Austrian Arctic explorer of that name.

During our detention the time of the officers was not unprofitably
spent. A rough survey of the place was made, its position was correctly
ascertained, a series of magnetic observations were obtained, and long
walks were taken in the neighbourhood, during which a large and rich
collection was made in the interests of geology and botany. No game of
any description was seen. Traces of Eskimo were discovered, but
evidently of an ancient date. They consisted of the remains of igdlus or
huts, also some bone spear-heads, and the runners and cross-bars of a
sledge.[1] Tidal observations were also taken in the harbour.

Here also, it may be said, we received our first lessons in the art of
sledging; for, wishing to be initiated into its mysteries, a party,
consisting of four officers and five men dragging one of our large
twenty-feet ice boats on a sledge, started to travel over the pack. Our
main object was of course to derive some practical experience in this
all-important mode of Arctic exploration, and in this, I think, we
succeeded.

We found the ice exceedingly hummocky, with narrow water spaces between,
_just_ too broad to admit of our jumping over, yet not sufficiently
wide to launch the boat into. So rough was the road that at one time the
bows of the boat would be seen rising almost perpendicularly in the air,
whilst all hands were engaged in long-standing pulls on the drag-ropes
to the tune of "one, two, three, haul;" at another time the sledge would
come down the side of a hummock with such rapidity as to give us hardly
time to spring out of the way to avoid the sledge and boat coming over
us, and many were the falls in consequence. It was, however, rare fun.
Once while launching the boat into a pool of water she nearly capsized;
as it was she half filled, and everything inside--provisions, clothes,
instruments, guns, and ammunition--was thoroughly saturated. A gold
watch that happened to be in a coat pocket was not improved by its
immersion.

Another source of amusement during our stay in this harbour was chasing
"unies," as narwhals are invariably called by the whalers; but, although
a good deal of patience and perseverance was displayed in attempts to
harpoon them, these qualities were never rewarded, and the boats always
returned unsuccessful from their pursuit.

Our little check in this harbour produced a slight despondency in those
who, for the previous few days, had been most sanguine of pushing on.
This was always alluded to in the ward-room as the depression of the
social barometer, and was for the future daily registered!

On the morning of the 4th of August, a southerly gale having blown all
the previous night, a channel of open water was visible as far as Cape
Sabine. This was an opportunity not to be lost. Accordingly, at 4 A.M.,
the anchors were weighed, and, before a fresh but bitter cold wind, both
ships made sail, and succeeded, after having made so many futile
attempts, in rounding the Cape. Bearing away to the westward we steered
up Hayes Sound, keeping close in to the land, the grounded icebergs
giving us timely notice of shoal water. At noon, opening a perfectly
land-locked bay, and the ice being so closely packed ahead as to defy
farther progress, the vessels were steered for the entrance, and we soon
found ourselves in a beautiful inlet enclosed by high land, but bounded
on one side by one of the grandest sights it is possible to behold: two
enormous glaciers coming from different directions, but converging at
their termination. They reminded us of two huge giants silently
attempting to push and force each other away.

It was indeed a noble sight, and filled us with impatient curiosity for
the moment when we could land and indulge in a closer inspection.

Accordingly, the anchors were no sooner let go than several started for
the purpose of paying it a visit. Landing abreast of the ship, we had
rather a rough and tumble sort of a scramble over loose masses of
gneiss, until we emerged on the banks of the bed of the glacier--that
is, the bed formed by the water running from the glacier during the
summer thaws. The walking was most laborious, at one moment through a
wet swampy bog, and at another over rough sharp-pointed stones.

The vegetation appeared luxuriant, and we found the traces of musk-oxen,
reindeer, wolves, foxes, and hares in abundance; but, although we were
provided with guns, we failed to secure any game, for the simple reason
that we saw none. But the traces of musk-oxen were very fresh, and
several horns of the reindeer were picked up. After a tedious walk of
about four or five miles we arrived at the glacier--the stupendous and
sublime work of ages. How insignificant and despicable did we appear in
comparison to this gigantic creation of Nature! I can compare it to
nothing except, perhaps, a frozen Niagara! The left-hand glacier was
rounded off, like a huge icy wave to its end, whilst it receded from our
view in long milky undulations until lost in the clouds. The right-hand
one--the lateral and terminal sides of which were quite precipitous--was
pressing against its neighbour until it had raised a slight ridge
between the two. We were naturally desirous of ascending one or both of
these glaciers, but time would not admit of such an undertaking, and we
were therefore compelled to content ourselves by standing upon a small
projection of each glacier, so as to be able to say that we had been on
them.

That Eskimos had visited this locality was certain; for we discovered on
our way out the site of an old settlement, and on the way back we
observed two large cairns that had evidently been used as _caches_.

Alexandra Bay and Twin Glacier Valley, as they were henceforth
designated, were the nearest approach to an Arctic paradise that we saw
during our sojourn in the Polar Regions. A sheltered and well-protected
harbour, with a locality abounding in game of various descriptions, are
of such importance that it is impossible to prize them too highly. They
should be the first and grand objects to be taken into consideration
whilst selecting a spot for winter quarters.

Although we were not fortunate in obtaining game during our stay of only
a few hours in this interesting neighbourhood, I have not the slightest
doubt that, had we penetrated a little farther into the interior, or had
we remained here a day or two longer, we should have been rewarded by an
ample supply, the traces that we observed being both numerous and
recent.

From tidal observations made during our brief stay in this harbour, we
found that the flood tide in Hayes Sound came from the eastward, but
that the ebb coming from the westward was the strongest. Whether Hayes
Sound was a strait opening out to the westward or only a deep inlet was,
and remains, a matter of uncertainty.


FOOTNOTE:

  [1] The fact of one of these spear-heads being tipped with iron,
    although they all bear the semblance of great age, would lead one to
    suppose that the tribe by whom it was left must have had some
    intercourse with Europeans, unless meteoric iron was used. This would
    be a very interesting question to decide.




CHAPTER VI.

STRUGGLES WITH THE ICE.


  "On those great waters now I am,
     Of which I have been told,
   That whosoever hither came
     Should wonders there behold.

   "Trim thou the sails, and let good speed
     Accompany our haste;
   Sound thou the channels at our need,
     And anchor for us cast.

   "A fit and favourable wind
     To further us provide,
   And let it wait on us behind,
     Or lackey by our side."

     GEORGE WITHER.

The morning following our arrival in Alexandra Harbour saw us again
battling with the ice in Hayes Sound, having been deluded into leaving
our comfortable snug quarters by the report that the pack had drifted to
the eastward, leaving a navigable channel extending to the north. The
report was fallacious, but we succeeded in threading our way to the N.W.
for about twenty miles, when both ships were helplessly beset, with but
little hope of extrication without a shift of wind.

Many broad glaciers were in view, winding their long white snaky
lengths between the hills, some of which could be traced into the
interior for ten or twelve miles, or until lost in illimitable space.

In twenty-four hours, the ice slackening enabled us to bore a way
through, eventually emerging into a broad stream of water. How sudden
and wonderful are the changes in these regions! From being closely
beset, a couple of hours saw us in an apparently open sea with _no ice_
in sight, and bowling along before a fresh southerly gale at the rate of
seven knots. Social barometer very high! In the morning not a spoonful
of water to be seen in any direction, in the evening not a vestige of
ice!

Passing close to the western shore we were able to confirm our views
regarding the Henry and Bache Islands of Hayes. They are undoubtedly
connected, and therefore not islands; but whether they were also
connected with the mainland we were not able to determine. In all
probability the supposed islands are a peninsula, apparently of
sandstone formation overlying trap, different to the granitic formation
of the southern shore of the strait. The land appeared quite bare of
vegetation, and bore a strong resemblance to the Silurian limestone
formation of the land about Prince Regent Inlet, showing stratifications
dipping to the northward at an angle of about 6°.

It does not do to indulge too freely in vain hopes in these regions. A
period of eight hours was sufficient to cause our hopeful anticipations
of a grand run to the northward to be "considerably eased down;" for in
that time we were again stopped by the ice, and compelled to make fast
to a floe, until the pack opened sufficiently to allow us to proceed.
During the run we passed some very heavy floes--heavier than anything
we had hitherto met, and quite sufficient in themselves to crush any
unfortunate ship that should happen to get nipped between two of them.

Off Albert Head great excitement was caused by the floe, to which both
ships were secured, being driven towards a large grounded iceberg. To be
squeezed between the two would be fatal. Our destruction seemed
inevitable. Yet we on board were helpless to avert the catastrophe. All
that we could do was to prepare for a severe nip: unship the rudder, and
lift the screw, and having taken every precaution to ensure the safety
of the crew, in the event of the ship's demolition, we could only look
on, and in silence witness, as we thought, the irresistible and
destroying powers of the Ice-King.

The "Discovery" was at first in the most critical position, but a slight
swerving of the floe relieved her from any immediate danger, whilst the
same movement of the ice intensified our own.

Nearer and more swiftly were we hurried towards the grim and motionless
berg, up whose sides the floe, as it came into contact with it, was seen
to be literally walking and forcing its way, crumbling and falling into
shapeless masses at its base.

Escape appeared impossible. It seemed hard at the very commencement of
our voyage thus to lose our ship, and with it all hopes of success.
Suddenly, when our fate seemed almost decided, the berg turned slightly,
splitting up the floe to which we were secured and sending us clear. It
was a narrow shave, and although we suffered a slight nip, no material
damage was sustained.

Being myself too fully occupied with the work on deck, one of my
messmates kindly packed a few of my valuables together, ready to take
away in case of having to abandon the ship. On going below after the
ship had been secured, I found carefully packed in a haversack my
journals, Bible and Prayer-Book, a few photographs, and three boxes of
sardines!

It must not be supposed that we passed in idleness those days that we
were beset in the ice and unable to advance. As a rule our time was more
fully occupied then than when we had leads of water in which we could
proceed. Steam had to be kept ready for any sudden emergency, and a
constant watch had to be kept on every movement of the pack. Frequently
had the ice anchors to be tripped and the vessel moved, in order to
avoid bergs or floes closing in upon and nipping us. Occasionally, when
the pack opened, or appeared what we called "slack," we would attempt to
bore through; but as this invariably entailed a large consumption of
fuel, and gave very little result, it was not resorted to more than was
absolutely necessary. Every opening in the ice was taken advantage of,
by which we slowly but surely made progress northwards.

The crow's-nest was never deserted. In it Captain Nares might almost be
said to live, rarely coming on deck even for his meals; as for a night's
rest, such a thing to him was quite unknown. From the "nest" the motions
of the ice were closely scrutinized, the tides and currents were
studied, and the influence of the wind on the pack ascertained. No
opportunity was ever lost, and it was entirely due to this unceasing
watchfulness that the expedition succeeded in advancing, although it was
only inch by inch.

Victoria Head was reached on the morning of the 8th of August, but at
the expense of damaged rudder-heads to both ships, caused by the
constant backing into the ice whilst engaged in charging and breaking
through slight streams that offered impediments to our advance. A
detention here enabled us to pay the shore a visit. Great difficulty was
experienced in landing on account of the ice-foot adhering to the land,
which resembled a perpendicular frozen wall rising to the height of
about twelve feet. Indeed it was more overhanging than perpendicular, as
the action of the water had considerably undermined its base and
therefore rendered it almost inaccessible. By the aid of a long
boat-hook staff and some rope we succeeded in clambering up, at the
expense of bruised hands, the jagged surface of the ice cutting like
penknives. This proceeding was not unattended by a certain amount of
danger, for had the ice given way we should have been precipitated into
the boat, in which case we should have been extremely lucky to have
escaped without a fractured bone or limb.

The loose and rugged slabs of slaty limestone of which the hills were
composed made the walking very arduous, added to which a thick fog and
snowstorm that overtook us rendered our climb unprofitable so far as
ascertaining the nature of the ice to seaward and the prospect of
pushing on were concerned. The steep cliffs surrounding this prominent
headland are wasted and worn by the combined effects of snow and
weather, and present the same "battlemented" appearance so common to the
Silurian limestone formation of the cliffs about Prince Regent Inlet and
Lancaster Sound. A few fossils were collected, but, with the exception
of some sprigs of the stunted willow and a single tuft of saxifrage,
the land was devoid of all vegetation. Deep ravines stretched away into
the interior, entirely free from both snow and ice. Traces of former
inhabitants were discovered along the beach, consisting of the site of
an Eskimo settlement and a few small cairns or fox-traps.

Hitherto the traces of these interesting tribes have been continuous
along the western side of Smith Sound, and tend, in my opinion, to prove
conclusively that the Eskimos were in former days far more numerous than
they are at the present time. What has become of them? The solution of
this important ethnological question would be of the greatest interest.
Have they gradually died out? or have they migrated farther south, and
are now represented by the "Arctic Highlanders," and by tribes settled
on both sides of Lancaster Sound who are frequently visited by our
whalers?

It is certain that at some remote time there was a movement of Eskimo
tribes from Asia towards Greenland in these high latitudes, for traces
of their encampments have been found along the shores of the Parry group
from Melville Island to Lancaster Sound, where they are still living in
Dundas Harbour and in Admiralty Inlet. The late Admiral Sherard Osborn
and my cousin, Mr. Clements Markham, paid great attention to this
subject during the Arctic Expedition of 1850-51, and prepared a
descriptive list of all the Eskimo vestiges along the whole length of
the Parry group.[1] We now traced similar remains up the western side
of the channels leading north from Smith Sound, at Cape Sabine, on the
shores of Buchanan Strait, on Norman Lockyer Island, on Capes Hilgard,
Louis Napoleon, Hayes, and Fraser, at Radmore Harbour, and Bellot
Island. The most northern point where human remains were discovered was
at Cape Beechey, in 81° 54´ N. Here our naturalist found the framework
of a large wooden sledge, a stone lamp, and a snow scraper made of
walrus tusk. Beyond this point there was no sign of any human being
having preceded us. This is the utmost northern known limit of Eskimo
wandering, and here they appear to have crossed the strait, and to have
made their way southward on the Greenland side. The most northern
permanent human habitation in the world is now at Etah, near Port
Foulke, and, under present climatic conditions, it would be impossible
even for the Etah Eskimo to exist at Cape Beechey, in 81° 54´ N.,
whither their ancestors must have wandered in remote times. There is
much yet to learn respecting these marvellous wanderings along the
Arctic shores; and our expedition has certainly thrown considerable new
light on the question. We have fixed the most northern limit of the
Eskimo migrations, and have established the fact that they did not come
from the north down Smith Sound, but merely wandered round its shores
until the palæocrystic floes in Robeson Channel made them despair of
finding there the means of supporting life. We have also proved that the
people seen by Captain Clavering on the east coast of Greenland in 1823
could not have come round its northern extreme, but that they had found
their way to the neighbourhood of the Pendulum Islands from Cape
Farewell. They are useful contributions towards the final solution of a
very important ethnological question, which, however, cannot be fully
and conclusively settled until all the unknown parts of the Polar area
have been explored.


FOOTNOTE:

  [1] See the "Selection of Papers on Arctic Geography and Ethnology,"
    printed for the use of the Expedition by the Royal Geographical
    Society, p. 163.




CHAPTER VII.

WALRUS HUNT.--DOG DRIVING.


  "So Zembla's rocks, the beauteous work of frost,
   Rise white in air, and glitter o'er the coast;
   Pale suns, unfelt, at distance roll away,
   And on the impassive ice the lightnings play;
   Eternal snows the growing mass supply,
   Till the bright mountains prop the incumbent sky:
   As Atlas fixed, each hoary pile appears,
   The gathered winter of a thousand years."

     POPE.

During the remainder of the navigable season, I propose to present the
narrative of the voyage in the form of a diary, giving the extracts as
they were written down at the time, when the events they record were
fresh in my memory.

_Sunday, August 8th._--Snow fell very heavily during the forenoon,
completely covering the surrounding hills, and lying several inches deep
on our deck. Clearing up in the afternoon we found ourselves completely
beset by the ice and drifting shorewards. Steam was resorted to and
every effort made to reach a narrow lane of water, only a hundred yards
distant, but without success. At four o'clock the ship experienced a
slight nip, the ice piling up as high as our main chains, but
fortunately for us it was of too soft a nature to do much damage. Half
an hour afterwards the nip eased and the pack commenced to open, showing
broad lanes of water. This sudden slackening of the ice was due to the
total cessation of wind. We soon extricated ourselves from our
unpleasant situation, and lay in eager readiness to take advantage of
any opportunity of advancing that might offer itself.

11.30 P.M.--The ways of ice are indeed inscrutable! Five hours ago
Grinnell Land loomed in the distance, and we had little prospect of
reaching it for some time. Now we are actually made fast to the land-ice
in Franklin Pierce Bay on the southern shore of Grinnell Land!

We esteem ourselves particularly fortunate in having reached thus far.
Cape Fraser is not far distant, and this appears to be our Rubicon. Once
passed, fewer difficulties are anticipated. We may very fairly reason
that to the northward of this promontory will be found a "North Water"
similar to the one north of Baffin Bay, the ice remaining in the broad
part of Smith Sound like the middle pack in Baffin Bay and Davis
Straits.

In the latitude of Cape Fraser Kane reported what he called an open
Polar Sea, Hayes the same, whilst the "Polaris" actually navigated for
some distance this "North Water." Why-should we find it different?

The ice opened this afternoon in a miraculous manner, in one long lead
from land to land, sufficiently wide for us to pass through; and then,
as if it had opened expressly for us, closed again, and with such
rapidity that our consort, who was following in our wake, having lagged
a little behind, was caught and remained beset for some time;
eventually, however, boring through and rejoining us.

_August 9th._--We succeeded this morning in pushing on for three or four
miles, when, being completely stopped by the ice, we were again
compelled to make fast. In consequence of the heavy fall of snow
yesterday, the surface of the water was coated with a soft sludgy
substance, half ice and half snow, which greatly impeded our progress.

The statement made by Dr. Hayes in his interesting work, that "along the
entire coast of Grinnell Land no glacier appears," is slightly
inaccurate; for at the head of Franklin Pierce Bay two tolerably large
glaciers are situated, whilst another was seen a few miles to the
westward on the same coast. Doubtless Dr. Hayes intended to say
_discharging_ glaciers, in which case he would, I think, be nearly
correct.

For three days were we detained, without the ice allowing us the
slightest chance of moving, during which time a complete series of
magnetic observations was obtained on the floe, the inclination of the
needle being as much as 85° 34´. Both the dredge and trawl were also put
into requisition and with good results. Amongst the many zoological
curiosities brought to the surface, from a depth of fifteen fathoms,
were some crinoids. These echinoderms are very rare, few specimens
having been met with, until the deep-sea dredgings of the "Challenger"
brought them more into notice.

A small island, since called Norman Lockyer Island after the
distinguished astronomer of that name, was visited, and its highest
eminence ascended for the purpose of watching the movements of the pack.
Landing on the ice-foot that fringed the shore, we stepped on to a long
shaly beach that rose in well-defined and regular terraces to at least
two hundred feet above the level of the sea, showing the different tidal
marks, and illustrating clearly the gradual upheaval of the land.
Numerous traces of Eskimo were discovered on this small and remote
island, consisting of the sites of several encampments, and a bone
harpoon point, all apparently of very ancient date. The highest part of
the island is from five to six hundred feet above the sea. It is of
limestone formation, and on several of the rocks, especially those at
its summit, distinct glacial marks were detected. Vegetation was scanty,
although here and there the poppy, saxifrage, and willow could be seen
cropping up between the stones.

Here too we succeeded in harpooning a couple of walruses. Three of these
large animals were observed on a piece of ice, their large ungainly
forms stretched out, lazily enjoying their _siesta_. Volunteers were not
wanting for the purpose of attempting their capture; but as an
indiscriminate attack would only lead to failure, it was determined to
despatch one of the whale boats, specially fitted with a harpoon gun,
and all the necessary implements and gear for securing these animals, in
order to effect in a more organized and skilful manner the object we had
in view.

Great difficulty was experienced in approaching our prey, as the boat
had to be hauled over loose fragments of ice, and pushed through a
sludgy consistency of soft ice, snow, and water, in which the oars were
useless; so that it was feared the unavoidable noise would disturb and
frighten them away. At length, after much trouble and no little
exertion, we succeeded in getting within about eight yards, so sound
was their repose, without exciting any suspicion in their minds that
danger was lurking in their vicinity. At that distance, however, they
evinced a degree of restlessness, by lifting their shaggy heads and
uttering jerky spasmodic snorts, that showed us only too plainly a
retreat was meditated.

[Illustration: WALRUSES.]

Selecting the largest of the three as his victim, our harpooner
carefully laid his gun. A moment of breathless suspense followed, to be
relieved by the report of the gun, a roar of pain and rage, and the
disappearance in the water of the three walruses, while the piece of
ice, on which a moment before they had been reposing, was covered with
blood, convincing us that our shaft had taken effect. If any further
proof was required in corroboration of this fact, a tugging at the line
and the sudden moving of the boat was sufficient. Lances and rifles were
quickly seized; for these animals, when wounded and maddened by pain,
are ugly and dangerous customers, and have frequently been known to rip
the planks out of a boat with their formidable tusks, and thus
seriously endanger the lives of the crew. We had not long to wait; a
disturbance in the water close alongside denoted that our victim was
coming to the surface. An instant after, his bearded face with every
expression of infuriated rage and demoniacal hate, his fiery eyes
glaring with vengeance, appeared, and was immediately saluted with two
or three rifle bullets. This warm reception served only to incense and
irritate him, and he tried hard to wreak his vengeance on the boat; but
his enemies were too powerful, and with the united aid of bullets and
lance thrusts the unwieldy beast was forced to succumb to the superior
power of his human antagonists. Towing the great carcase back to the
ship, it was hauled up on the floe, and quickly _flinched_.[1] The
blubber and flesh were packed in barrels, making a very welcome addition
to the small amount of food that we had on board for our dogs.

Another walrus was harpooned on the following day, and these were the
only two captured by the expedition during their stay in the Arctic
regions. Walrus steaks, from this date, were for some time in great
demand, whilst the liver was pronounced to be perfectly excellent, and
even superior to pig's fry!

As a rule these animals are exceedingly difficult to kill, for in
addition to their enormously thick skulls and coating of almost
impenetrable skin and blubber, they are excessively tenacious of life. A
rifle bullet, although a walrus may eventually die of the wound, is more
than useless, as it will effectually scare him away, and thus all chance
of securing him is lost. The only sure way of succeeding in their
capture is by the use of the harpoon, and this weapon of course is only
available at short distances.

During the temporary delays of the ships in the ice, amusement was not
forgotten, and we often had rare fun. It is a very important point in an
Arctic expedition to keep the men constantly employed and interested,
otherwise they would, more especially when their onward progress was
checked, be subject to gloomy moods and fits of despondency. Care,
therefore, should be taken to guard against these feelings.

Amongst the numerous games purchased by the expedition before leaving
England was a football, which, on occasions of this sort and when the
ice would admit of it, would be produced, and a game kept up with great
spirit, though with an utter disregard of all orthodox rules. So long as
Jack got his kick, no matter in which direction the ball was propelled,
he was satisfied! Officers and men would alike mingle in the game, every
one determined to carry out the one grand object, namely, that of
enjoying themselves. Skating and sliding on the ice were also
accomplishments that afforded much pleasure and amusement, and were
freely indulged in by all, irrespective of age or rank. Sometimes our
Eskimo dogs would be taken out on the floe and harnessed to an empty
sledge, whilst some would-be dog driver, anxious to attain proficiency
as a whip, would make a start, and be seen tearing round the floe,
regardless of weak ice and pools of water, at the rate of ten miles an
hour, returning on board thoroughly drenched, but happy in the knowledge
that he had succeeded as a dog driver.

Perhaps a few words here in connection with the dogs would not be out of
place. As I have before stated, they lived almost entirely in the fore
part of the vessel, and were consequently especial favourites with the
men, by whom they were fed and greatly petted. Of course they were all
named, their appellations being more characteristic than euphonious.
They rejoiced in such names as Ginger, so called on account of his
colour; Bruin, because he was minus a tail, having been deprived of this
appendage in his youthful days; Boss-eye, on account of the obliquity of
his vision, or as our men expressed it, because "his eyes were rove
cross-jack brace fashion;" Sore-sides, in consequence of the unfortunate
dog when it came on board suffering from an unhealed wound in its side.
Sallie, Topsy, Sly-boots, Jessie, etc., were the names of others.

The only English dog in the expedition was my black retriever Nellie, an
old shipmate and companion, who took no pains to conceal her displeasure
and disgust at the introduction of such, in her estimation, a rough and
rowdy pack; nor was she ever afterwards induced to cultivate their
acquaintance. As she lived in the after part of the ship, she viewed
with a jealous eye any attempts on the part of the Eskimo dogs to
intrude on what she regarded as her own domain, and would invariably fly
at and drive them forward.

Shortly after their appearance on board, and long before they had been
used for sledging purposes, a species of rabies, or dog madness, broke
out amongst them, which very quickly and alarmingly thinned their
number. The first symptom of this disease would generally be the dog
falling down in a fit, from which it would partially recover only to
rush about in a frantic manner as if totally deprived of all sense and
feeling. On some occasions they would rush into the water and be
drowned, and at other times wander away from the ship to be no more
seen; sometimes their sufferings would terminate in death, whilst at
other times they would be shot in order to release the poor things from
their pain.

All expeditions have experienced the same kind of disease and mortality
amongst their dogs, for which there has hitherto been no remedy. It is a
curious fact that hydrophobia is unknown among the Eskimo, and no man
bitten by one of these dogs during a mad fit has ever suffered permanent
injury from its effects. Frequently whilst employed sledging, they have
been attacked by violent fits, resembling cramp, completely prostrating
them, causing them to roll over on their sides and foam at the mouth. On
these occasions they would be freed from the sledge, which after a time
they would follow, when they would be reharnessed and proceed as if
nothing had occurred.

Dr. Colan devoted much of his time to the investigation of the nature
and causes of this disease, and I have no doubt his researches will
throw a flood of light over this matter that will prove of the greatest
value to succeeding expeditions in the preservation of their dogs, and
be the means of baffling the attacks of this insidious disease.

The dogs when employed in dragging a sledge are always harnessed in line
abreast, and never, as generally supposed, ahead of each other in tandem
fashion.

From six to ten or a dozen dogs form a team. They are capable of
dragging as much as one hundred and fifty pounds per dog; but this is
rather an excessive load and should not be exacted for any length of
time. So strong and enduring are they that they will frequently perform
a journey, over smooth ice, of twenty-five or thirty miles a day with
this load; but with light loads and level ice they have been known to
travel as much as seventy and even a hundred miles in one day.

There is something very exhilarating and exciting about dog sledging, so
long as the weather is fine, temperature not too low, smooth level ice
to travel over, and a light sledge to drag. But let all these various
conditions be reversed, let the weather be thick and foggy, or a gale of
wind blowing with a blinding snow-drift, a temperature of 50° below
zero, rough hummocky ice to travel over, and a heavily laden sledge to
be dragged by a tired and obstinate team, then dog sledging cannot be
regarded as either a comfortable or desirable amusement.

The sensation of dashing along on a light sledge at the rate of ten
miles an hour, the fine snow flying into one's face as the dogs tear
through it pell-mell in their headlong career, or perhaps plunging down
the side of a steep ravine when the utmost caution is required to
prevent the sledge from capsizing and toppling over on the top of the
dogs, is both novel and delightful. But when obstacles such as hummocks
and deep snow-drifts have to be encountered, especially with a low
temperature, the reverse is the case. Directly the sledge receives the
slightest check from either of these causes, the dogs lie down, and look
at you in the most provoking manner. It is no use having recourse to the
whip, for not all the flogging in the world will make them advance until
the obstacle has been removed, or the sledge carried over the
difficulties that had retarded its progress.

The whip is the main feature in dog driving. To be a good driver it is
therefore necessary to use this implement in a dexterous manner. The
lash is a thong of sealskin about eighteen or twenty feet long, attached
to a short handle of about twelve inches in length. It is, in the hands
of an experienced driver, a formidable weapon, the punishment that the
dogs receive from it being often very severe. They are guided solely by
it, and it is amusing to witness the cunning and intelligence displayed
by the outside dogs, who invariably get more than their fair share of
the lash, in dodging under the lines of the others and emerging
somewhere in the midst of the team in order to escape from its terrible
infliction. Another very annoying and distressing piece of work
connected with dog sledging is clearing the lines, which in a short time
become in a grievously entangled state from the constant dodging about
of the dogs, and this it must be remembered has to be done with hands
encased in thick woollen mitts, for to bare them would ensure serious
frost-bites. In consequence of the amount of provisions that have of
necessity to be carried for the use of the dogs, it is almost impossible
to use them for long journeys. None were employed during the expedition
by any of the extended sledge parties; but for short journeys, or when
dispatch was required, they were invaluable.


FOOTNOTE:

  [1] "Flinching" is a whaling term for cutting up a whale or walrus.




CHAPTER VIII.

SLOW PROGRESS THROUGH THE ICE.


  "He rose, the coast and country to survey,
   Anxious and eager to discover more.
   It looked a wild uncultivated shore,
   But whether human kind or beast alone
   Possessed the new-found region was unknown."

     VIRGIL.

_Thursday, August 12th._--Early this morning, the floes opening
slightly, an attempt was made to proceed; but it was a futile one, the
ice remaining perfectly impenetrable. This delay is naturally causing
anxiety, as our fuel is rapidly disappearing, from the constant demand
for steam, and the navigable season is also as rapidly waning, young ice
forming alongside the ship nearly an inch in thickness. Patience,
combined with caution and perseverance, is an indispensable
qualification for an Arctic navigator. At the same time he must be
prepared, when occasion offers, to make a bold dash. Quick determination
and an ever-ready eye to seize upon any available opportunity are also
necessary attributes of the explorer who hopes to achieve success in ice
navigation. Without them failure is inevitable.

In the forenoon both ships were slightly nipped. We succeeded in
unshipping our rudder in time; but the "Discovery," receiving the
squeeze more astern, had her rudder very severely injured. She was
enabled, however, to patch it up sufficiently for temporary use and thus
avoid the necessity of shifting it. In the afternoon the ice began to
move to the eastward, enabling us once more to make a start. Hastily
shipping our rudders we got under weigh, and having bored through a few
streams of ice emerged into a fine lead of water extending between the
land and the pack. Passing Cape D'Urville, we opened a large inlet. At
its head was a deep ravine, containing two large glaciers which, running
respectively from N.E. and N.W., met and formed one terminal face. At 9
P.M. the southern extreme of Dobbin Bay, called Cape Hawks, was passed.
This is a magnificent promontory, which has, with some propriety, been
compared, in appearance, to the Rock of Gibraltar.

It was a beautifully calm night as both ships silently rounded this bold
headland, the water so still and unruffled that it was actually used as
an artificial horizon for the purpose of taking an astronomical
observation. The Cape itself towered over our heads as we steamed past,
its reflection in the still quiet water being clearly visible, whilst
deep ravines on either side stretched away apparently for miles into the
interior, until lost amid the snow-shining mountains in the far
distance. A large glacier at the head of the bay showed out prominently
as it glistened in the light of a bright midnight sun, the bay itself
being covered with an icy sheet, broken only by a few long low bergs,
generated, in all probability, from the selfsame glacier. The few clouds
that were visible in the almost cloudless sky presented an exquisite
iridescence rarely witnessed, exhibiting clearly defined bright
colours, extending in bands in a horizontal direction, the reflection
of which in the clear pellucid water materially enhanced the beauties of
the landscape. Such a scene, with all its surroundings, could scarcely
be equalled in beauty, certainly not surpassed, even in sunny Italy.

[Illustration: CAPE HAWKS.]

Making the ships fast to an iceberg, preparations for landing a large
depôt of provisions, similar to the one established at the Cary Islands,
were immediately commenced. A jolly-boat, obtained from the "Valorous,"
was also deposited here. We have now two large depôts, besides boats,
established in our rear, sufficient to sustain a large party for many
days, should any untoward accident befall our ship.

Whilst engaged in these operations, an adjacent island--Washington
Irving Island--was visited, and a large cairn erected on its summit. Our
surprise may be imagined when, on reaching the top, the remains of an
old cairn were discovered. At first its origin was attributed to Hayes,
who visited the island in 1860, but on closer inspection evidences of a
construction at a much earlier date were palpable, the stones of which
it was composed being covered with lichen, denoting great age. Hayes, in
the published account of his voyage, makes no mention either of having
seen this cairn or of having built one on the island. It was,
undoubtedly, the work of white men's hands; the object and necessity for
building cairns is unknown, and therefore not practised, by the Eskimos.
How then came this structure in such a remote and desolate part of the
world? Can it be the work of some obscure navigator of years gone by,
who erected this monument as a memento of his visit, but who never
returned to relate the results of his adventurous voyage? This must for
ever remain a mystery!

Of course it was quickly demolished and its site subjected to a very
careful search, in the hopes of discovering some record or clue by which
its history might be ascertained; but nothing was found, and we were
forced to content ourselves with reconstructing it on a larger scale,
and depositing a record at its base detailing the movements of the
expedition.

The depôt having been landed, the ships were moved a little farther up
the bay, although, to effect this, we were compelled to have recourse to
powder, in order to "blast" a passage through the ice. The recent
tracks of a bear were observed on the floe, being the only indications
of the presence of these animals that we had observed since leaving
Melville Bay. It naturally caused a little excitement amongst our
sportsmen and would-be bear slayers.

The formation of the land around Dobbin Bay appeared curiously
contorted; the stratifications dipping, in some places, to the westward
at an angle of about 18°, whilst at others they assumed a perfectly
horizontal direction. This irregularity of the strata may probably be
accounted for by the trap, or other primary rock, forcing its way
upwards through the limestone formation. Where these contortions appear
the colour changes from the sombre grey of the surrounding limestone to
a bright red and brownish hue.

In the afternoon, it being deemed expedient for the safety of the ships
that they should be docked, the requisite instructions were given, and
in four hours they were securely placed in two large commodious docks,
cut out of the solid floe.

The process of docking is rendered necessary to prevent a ship from
being crushed between two floes should she be so unfortunate as to be
placed between them with the whole force of the pack driving against the
outer one. This operation is frequently necessary whilst following the
land-ice, although in these days of steam it is not so frequently
practised as of old.

Our ice-saw crews had previously been organized, and, as it is
absolutely necessary that the work of construction should be carried out
with the utmost expedition, the whole of the officers and ship's company
were stationed so as to take an active part in the proceedings. The
instant the order was given for "all hands to cut dock" a most animated
scene ensued. Triangles were quickly erected, saws placed in position,
the dock measured and marked out by boarding-pikes placed at the several
corners, and every one working as if their lives depended upon their own
individual exertions. Three persons only were left on board the
ship--namely, one officer in charge of the deck, the engineer at the
engines, and a man at the helm--and, as it was necessary to keep the
ship constantly moving so as to avoid pieces of ice, and also to place
her in a good position for being docked, these three had no sinecure
offices.

Occasionally a jet of water, followed by a loud report and a shower of
fragmentary ice, showed that powder was used to shatter the larger
pieces of ice that had been cut, but unless great care is taken in the
use of this explosive, it is liable to damage the sides of the dock.

This was our first attempt at dock cutting, which will account for the
time occupied in its construction. Ordinarily the work should be
completed in about a couple of hours. When two or more ships are in
company time is saved by employing all hands to cut one dock large
enough to take in all the ships.

The diagram on next page will serve to illustrate the system employed by
us whilst engaged in making one of these docks. The last triangular
piece of ice that is taken out--namely, the portion marked on the plan
by the letters C B F--is removed intact, and being placed across the
entrance serves to close the dock and thus keep out all stray pieces of
ice.

After four hours of such work as dock cutting entails, it was poor
comfort for us to return on board wet, cold, and hungry, only to find
that our fires had been allowed to burn out, and that we could neither
get a cup of tea to refresh ourselves with, nor a chance of warming
ourselves at the stove.[1] The Eskimo dogs, being turned out on the floe
and tied to one of our anchor lines, made night hideous by their dreary
and lamentable wailing.

[Illustration: PLAN OF ICE DOCK.

  No. 1 saw cuts from A to B 200 ft.
  No. 2 " " D to C 200 ft.
  No. 3 " " B to C 35 ft., and then on to F 115 ft.
  No. 4 saw cuts from F to D 120 ft., and, if necessary, from E to F 48
    ft.

  DIMENSIONS OF DOCK.

  Length                200 ft.
  Breadth, at entrance   65 "
  Ditto, at head         35 "]

For two days were the ships kept close prisoners; but on Sunday, August
15th, as soon as divine service was finished, a large party of men was
actively engaged in cutting and blasting a passage between the floe in
which we were imprisoned and the shore, for a lead of water had been
observed in the channel which we were naturally desirous of reaching.
Although Sunday was as much as possible observed as a day of rest, it
was quite out of the question to a party situated as we were altogether
to abstain from work on the Sabbath. Our navigable season, we knew, was
a short one; no opportunity could we afford to lose; and therefore we
were compelled to work as much on Sunday as on week-days should
circumstances arise which would make it necessary for us to do so. After
about nine hours' hard work we succeeded in making a passage
sufficiently broad for the ships to pass through. Our last explosion was
a most effective one; no less than eight blasting charges, or torpedoes,
were exploded simultaneously--these varied in size from five to twelve
pound charges.

[Illustration: "THE MOANING OF THE TIED."]

The result of this, designated by the men, "feu de joy" was wonderful;
the floe split and cracked in all directions, enabling us with our long
ice points and poles to clear a splendid channel. Hauling the ships out
of dock, we steamed through the passage and into a fine stream of water
round Cape Louis Napoleon. So narrow, however, was our channel that in
rounding the point, to our great dismay, the "Discovery" grounded. A
delay at this moment might have proved fatal to us, and it was therefore
with no small amount of satisfaction, after a short detention, that we
observed her again afloat. Our joy at being again on the move was
short-lived. A few hours sufficed to bring us to the edge of a field of
ice, to penetrate which seemed utterly impossible. To cut a dock in such
ice, the floes being from ten to twenty feet in thickness, was also out
of the question, even had we been provided with saws sufficiently long
to do so. Blasting was resorted to, and by this means we were enabled to
secure the ship in a small indentation in the ice that afforded some
slight protection. So high was the ice that our boats, hanging from the
midship davits on the outside of the ship, had to be turned inboard to
prevent their being crushed. For three days were we kept in a state of
feverish excitement without being able to make any progress, and yet
constantly moving the ship to avoid destruction from drifting bergs and
closing floes.

The shore was frequently visited, and the heights of Mount Joy and Cape
Hayes ascended; but always the same scene met our view to northward--an
impassable plain of ice.

Twice in one day were the ships nearly destroyed. A large iceberg that
was aground close to us, and therefore protecting us from the pack,
suddenly floated and drifted away. This released a large floe to which
we were secured, and with which we drifted down rapidly towards another
large berg that remained aground. It was an anxious time for us, for in
five minutes, unless we could move out of the way, we must be inevitably
crushed between the two. All hands were quickly summoned, a line laid
out astern and made fast to some large hummocks, and by this we
fortunately succeeded in hauling the ship clear; but only just in time,
for as our bowsprit cleared the berg, the floe came into contact with it
with such irresistible force that hummock was piled upon hummock in a
truly alarming manner. Had we been caught, nothing short of a miracle
could have saved us.

The noise of the ice as it squeezed against the berg was anything but
pleasant to listen to; but still it was better than hearing our own
timbers crashing to pieces in the same manner, and we all experienced a
strong feeling of relief when the danger was past.

Little rest was enjoyed by any on these days during which we were
subjected to the wayward will of the pack. Unshipping and replacing the
rudder, and lifting and lowering the screw, were duties that had to be
carried out several times during each day, and, although this sort of
work is rather depressing and irksome, the spirits of the crew never
flagged. They were always ready, cheerful, and willing. No matter what
duty they were called upon to perform, it was invariably carried out in
the same zealous, hearty manner that was so conspicuously manifested
during the whole period of the absence of the expedition as to elicit
the unbounded praise and confidence of their leader.

On the 19th of August the ice slackened sufficiently to enable us to
proceed, and on that evening, to the intense delight of every one, we
succeeded in rounding Cape Fraser.

During the last three weeks we had advanced exactly ninety miles, or at
the rate of about four and a quarter miles a day. This cannot be
considered a rapid rate of travelling, yet to accomplish even this
necessitated a constant and vigilant look-out.

Cape Fraser is a bold promontory some thousand feet in height,
terminating in a short projecting point of land about two hundred feet
above the level of the sea. Above the talus appeared numerous caves in
the cliffs, a peculiarity noticed for the first time, and the summit was
studded with irregularities that, to an imaginative mind, might be
perverted into gigantic beings, animals, or castellated towers. On one
of these ridges was a heap of stones supposed to represent the "Twelve
Apostles," and was so marked on the chart; but as we could never
distinguish more than half the number at one time from any point of
bearing, it was generally supposed on board that they adhered to true
man-of-war regulations, and only appeared in their "watch on deck," half
the number belonging of course to the watch below!

At 10 P.M., being again temporarily stopped, the ships were secured in a
little harbour called Maury Bay. During our detention in the vicinity of
Cape Fraser, we were able to confirm the observations made by Dr.
Bessels of the "Polaris," relative to the meeting of two tides at or
about this point. This fact materially strengthens the argument in
favour of the insularity of Greenland, for it has been deduced from a
series of tidal observations obtained by us that the tide to the
northward of Cape Fraser--that is, the tide in Kennedy and Robeson
Channels--is undoubtedly the same as the North Atlantic one, and
therefore flows along the northern coast of Greenland.

Contrary to what might generally be expected, we did not encounter any
very great accumulation of broken up ice in consequence of the meeting
of these two tides: not more than would be caused by the fact of the
channel decreasing in size to the northward at this point, and therefore
offering greater obstruction to the ice whilst drifting northward, but
facilitating its general drift, which is to the southward.

From the summit of Cape John Barrow, which forms one extreme of the
little bay in which we were secured, we obtained a good view, and one
which delighted and gladdened our hearts.

Northwards we could see as far as Cape L. von Buch; between us leads of
water, although covered with much loose ice. To the eastward we could
plainly distinguish Cape Constitution, with a large sheet of water along
its base; but to get to it we should have had to penetrate a large
expanse of pack. This pool of water was in all probability similar to
one seen by Morton in the same place in 1855, and reported by him as an
"open Polar sea," on which many imaginative theories have been based!

Our return to the ship was not accomplished without much difficulty, in
consequence of our little harbour of refuge having filled with drifting
ice, during the time we were on shore, which beset our boat. We were
therefore compelled to haul and drag it over and through innumerable
fragments of ice, reaching the ship wet and fatigued, but delighted with
the intelligence we possessed and the prospect of pushing on.

_Friday, August 20th._--At one o'clock this morning, being the top of
high water, we made another start.

Taking advantage of the different broad lanes of water, we steamed
rapidly past Cape Norton Shaw, and opened out Scoresby Bay--a grand
harbour that would suit admirably for a ship's winter quarters, provided
animal life existed. From the appearance of the land we imagined that
game would be found in large quantities. A perfect cone-shaped hill on
the north-west side is a very prominent feature of this bay. Indeed, the
entire coast along which we are passing is composed of long ranges of
hills more or less coniform, varying from one to two thousand feet in
height. The coast line is very imperfectly delineated on our charts, the
distance between the various bays and headlands are erroneous, and the
positions are wrong; the error always being that they are placed too
much to the northward.

Off Cape McClintock we had another narrow escape from being severely
nipped, in consequence of attempting to pass through a channel between
two closing floes. Although jammed for a short time, the pressure was
not very great, and, the nip easing, the ship was released. Passing Cape
Collinson we were again obliged to make fast to a large floe, as all the
leads to the northward had closed up, thereby preventing farther
progress.

The ice was moving rapidly to the southward--the whole pack drifting
bodily--at the rate of from one and a half to two knots an hour. The
floe to which we were secured was kept stationary by a couple of
grounded icebergs that effectually resisted all its efforts to extricate
itself. This rapid drift seemed to indicate the presence of a "North
Water," or at any rate a very loose pack.

Advantage was taken of our temporary delay to establish a small depôt of
provisions, consisting of two hundred and forty rations, near Cape
Collinson, for the use of a travelling party which, according to
existing arrangements, would be dispatched to the southward by the
"Discovery" during the following year, for the purpose of visiting Cape
Isabella, and bringing up any letters that might have been deposited
there for us.

_Saturday, August 21st._--Lanes of water appearing continuous to the
northward, we got under weigh at half-past two this morning; but after
two or three hours' boring and working under steam and sail we were
forced to relinquish the attempt, being unable to penetrate the pack in
the direction we wished to proceed. We therefore returned to our former
anchorage, under the lea of a friendly berg, the ice continuing to drift
south with marvellous rapidity.

Whilst detained here we were assailed by some furious squalls from the
S.E., accompanied by a heavy fall of snow. During one of these the
"Discovery" was blown away from her anchors, and it was with no little
difficulty that she was again secured to the floe in safety. Thinking we
should be able to reach some open water to the northward by the removal
of the large floe to which we were fast, both ships' companies were
employed in sawing off a large piece of it, which, impinging on one of
the stranded icebergs, would, it was thought, release the floe if
detached. The distance to cut through was one thousand feet.
Notwithstanding the magnitude of the undertaking, every one set to work
with a will and resolution that betokened confidence in being able to
succeed in anything that was required of them.

Before the work was fairly commenced the ice appeared to slack to the
eastward, and the captain, abandoning his former intention, determined
to seek a passage through the pack instead of hugging the coast.

Getting under weigh at 9.30 P.M., we bored through a large extent of
slack ice, into a fine piece of open water, which, when reached, we
found possessed no outlet. It was a perfect salt-water lake surrounded
by ice. In this we were obliged to dodge about under sail, waiting
patiently for the ice to open and thus allow us a free passage.

As we proceed northwards the ice appears to be heavier and more
formidable, and animal life seems to be getting more scarce. Few birds
are seen. Occasionally the head of an inquisitive seal is protruded out
of the water, but immediately withdrawn (if not killed) on being saluted
by half a dozen bullets from the rifles of our keen and enthusiastic
sportsmen, who are for ever on the watch to display their prowess in
their endeavours to procure food for our dogs, by shooting these
animals, who thus pay for their curiosity with their lives.

We appeared to be leaving the region of icebergs, for, although those
met with lately were of great size, they were few in number. The one
affording us protection this forenoon was no less than six hundred feet
in length.


FOOTNOTE:

  [1] An amusing story is related of one of the officers. Whilst
    engaged in cutting the dock, he, without thinking, put his pipe in
    his trousers pocket, so as to enable him the more readily to work at
    his ice-saw. Feeling, after a time, a little warm about his legs, he
    attributed it to his exertions in working the saw, until a sharp and
    intolerable pain caused him to put his hand into his pocket. This
    speedily afforded an explanation: his pipe, being still alight, had
    burnt a hole through his trousers and shirt and was burning his leg!




CHAPTER IX.

KENNEDY CHANNEL.


  _2nd Keeper._--"I'll stay above the hill so both may shoot."

  _1st Keeper._--"That cannot be: the noise of thy cross-bow will scare
  the herd, and so my shoot is lost. Here stand we both, and aim we at
  the best."--_Henry VI._

  "Within a long recess there lies a bay,
   An island shades it from the rolling sea,
   And forms a port secure for ships to ride,
   Broke by the jutting land on either side."

     VIRGIL.

_Sunday, August 22nd._--The rapidity of the changes that take place in
these icy seas is almost inconceivable. In a few hours from being
helplessly imprisoned by a dense pack of ice, we were actually plying,
under steam and sail, in a vast expanse of water containing only a few
loose streams of ice, through which we had no difficulty in penetrating.
Our predictions were indeed realized, and to a greater extent than we
had even anticipated. We had reached a "North Water," in which we were
sensible of a very perceptible motion on board the ship. It is true that
the pack, apparently as solid and as impenetrable as ever, extended
along the west side of Kennedy Channel; but to the northward and along
the east side was a clear and open sea, free of ice, with its surface
agitated by the fresh northerly wind that was blowing, and rising and
falling with true oceanic undulations.

Unfortunately for us, at least so far as making headway was concerned,
the wind was not only very strong but directly ahead, compelling us to
beat to windward under steam and fore and aft sails. We consoled
ourselves, however, with the hope that the same wind would blow all the
ice to the southward, and thus enable us to make good progress. The
temperature being some six or seven degrees below freezing point caused
us to feel the sharp wind in a very unpleasant manner, and made both the
crow's-nest and bridge very disagreeable places of resort. The pleasure
of feeling that we were really doing good work was, however, sufficient
compensation for the discomfort that was felt.

Stretching over to the eastern side of the channel we passed close to
Crozier Island, having Cape Constitution full in view. Its appearance
coincides exactly with the description given by Morton.

This cape is the northern extreme of a bay called, by Kane, Lafayette
Bay. It is steep and precipitous, and has no ice-foot adhering. Indeed,
the base of the headland, as well as the adjacent one, Cape
Independence, has the appearance of having been partially undermined by
the action of the sea, thus forming an overhanging terrace, up which it
would be impossible to ascend. Morton found its ascent totally
impracticable, on account of the steep and rugged nature of the cliff.
We were unable to detect any signs of a _mer de glace_ over this land,
although a light tinge along the summit to the southward of Lafayette
Bay would lead one to suppose that it existed. This, however, was the
only indication of an ice-cap that was perceived, and it was one on
which little or no reliance was placed.

The positions of the various points along this coast are very fairly
correct, being as nearly as possible in the latitudes ascribed to them
by Dr. Bessels of the "Polaris," affording a striking contrast to the
places on the opposite side of the channel, where the positions are so
egregiously inaccurate. The deep inlet on the American chart called Carl
Ritter Bay was not to be seen. The only indentation in the land in its
assigned position was Richardson Bay, which we must naturally conclude
was the one seen and named Carl Ritter by Dr. Hayes.

It was a curious fact that, whereas the land on the west side of the
channel was completely covered with snow, the land on the east side was
entirely free. This was not the only peculiar feature in which the two
sides of the channel differed. Although apparently of the same
geological formation, there was a great dissimilarity between the
physical appearance of the land on either side. That on the east was
flat and table-topped, rising to the height of about one thousand feet,
separated into hills by broad valleys, whilst the stratification of the
cliffs was regular and horizontal. That on the west side was, on the
contrary, composed of conical-shaped hills, rising to an altitude of
from two to four thousand feet, and intersected by deep ravines, whilst
the stratifications were so distorted that the dip varied as much as
from 10° to 45°.

Whilst the land on the east side appeared to have undergone a regular
and steady upheaval, that on the west seemed to have been raised
suddenly, the deep ravines between the numerous hills resembling the
beds of ancient and extinct glaciers.

_Monday, August 23rd._--A glorious run has been made during the last
twenty-four hours, assisted, for a short time, as we have been, by a
strong southerly wind; but alas! by 10 A.M. we arrived at the end of our
tether!

Passing the entrance to Bessels Bay, we reached Cape Morton, from whence
extended right across Hall Basin our implacable enemy, the ice--solid
floes of immense area stretching to the northward as far as the eye
could reach, with no opening, no outlet of any description, and no
indications of water.

Polaris Bay was ahead of us, and we could plainly discern the position
of the Americans' winter quarters; but with no hopes, for the present,
of our reaching so far. We must again, as we have so often had to do
before, exercise our patience, and wait for a more favourable
opportunity for pushing on. The strong southerly wind now blowing will,
in all probability, be succeeded by a calm or a breeze from the
northward, either of which will have the effect of opening the ice. The
"Discovery" having landed a small depôt of two hundred and forty rations
at Cape Morton, for the use of travelling parties that will hereafter be
dispatched for the purpose of exploring Petermann Fiord, both ships made
sail and beat back to Bessels Bay, where we dropped anchor in seven
fathoms, just inside, and under the protection of Hannah Island.

Bessels Bay is a long and narrow indentation in the land, extending in a
N.W. and S.E. direction, having numerous small glaciers on either side,
the majority of them discharging ones. The bay is in consequence nearly
choked with small bergs.

This bay or fiord gives one the idea of having been originally the bed
of some large glacier, now extinct, whilst Hannah Island, which lies
directly across its mouth, has every appearance of having been its
terminal moraine, not only from its position, but also from its
composition, for it consists of an immense heap of pebbles and drift,
possessing apparently no determined basis, no underlying rock.

We were also able to observe here the undoubted _mer de glace_ under
which Greenland is supposed to be buried, and whose outpourings in this
locality find their escape in Petermann Fiord and Bessels Bay.

A few eider-ducks, a seal, and some dovekies, with an ivory gull, were
seen to-day.

Captain Feilden and Mr. Parr landed on the northern side of the bay,
and, ascending a high hill, obtained a good and unobstructed view to the
northward. Their report was very desponding--ice, nothing but ice, as
far as they could see.

From what we can now observe, the land on the western side of Hall Basin
appears to end abruptly somewhere about Cape Union, and does not
continue to the northward, as represented in the last American Chart. I
put no belief in the land reported to have been seen by some of the men
of the "Polaris," and named President Land. Should the land terminate,
as I anticipate, in about lat. 83° N. our chance of reaching a high
latitude will of course be much reduced, although we shall have a grand
field of exploration to the eastward and westward.

In the evening the captain and myself visited Hannah Island, and erected
a cairn, in which a record detailing our movements was deposited, on its
summit, in the most conspicuous place about the centre of the island.
Here we had an uninterrupted view to the northward; but what we saw
only confirmed the report brought on board in the earlier part of the
day. The western side of the channel appeared free of ice as far as Cape
Lieber, and a lane of water was visible extending from us as far as this
cape. By this stream of water appears our only chance of getting on.

_Tuesday, August 24th._--The captain left the ship early this morning to
ascend the hill immediately above Cape Morton (two thousand feet in
height), in order to ascertain from the nature of the ice what our
prospects of pushing on were likely to be. During his absence a haul
with the dredge was obtained, but with unimportant results: the
continual movement of icebergs in the bay, all more or less aground,
would hardly admit of much organic life at the bottom. Fossils abounded
in the limestone on shore, and a large collection of specimens was made.

At noon the captain was observed, in his boat, off Cape Morton, with the
signal flying for the ships "to weigh."

His orders were speedily executed; and, having picked him up, we were
soon running quickly across to the western side. He gave us the very
pleasing information that from the summit of Cape Morton he had observed
a magnificent lead of water along the west coast, and extending in all
probability as far as Cape Beechey. This was indeed delightful
intelligence, and served to raise the social barometer many degrees.

Our coal was rapidly diminishing, and we knew that many more days of
steaming such as those we had lately had would reduce our fuel to such
an extent that we could hope to do little more; for without steam a
vessel in these latitudes would indeed be helpless.

11 P.M.--Oh, the hopes and disappointments that we poor Arctic explorers
have to endure! First of all a confiding anticipation in the future
makes us joyous and expectant, and then we are plunged into the lowest
depths of despondency.

Two hours ago we were steaming through a grand expanse of water, looking
forward with confidence to reaching, in a few hours, Cape Beechey, or
perhaps even Cape Union, both being distinctly visible ahead, whilst
Capes Brevoort, Sumner, and Stanton were in sight on our starboard bow.

Passing Cape Baird, however, we were again met by our insatiable enemy,
the ice, which defied all our efforts to penetrate it.

We are now slowly picking our way across Lady Franklin Strait towards
Cape Bellot, in the hope of being able to reach some place of security
where we can remain patiently until a northerly wind shall have cleared
a passage for us. Whilst crossing Kennedy Channel we obtained a
magnificent view up Petermann Fiord. It is an extensive opening, with no
land visible at its head. This is a geographical problem which we hope
we shall soon be able to solve. It is difficult to determine at present
whether Lady Franklin Strait is really a strait or a deep inlet. We are
inclined to the latter belief. This is another question we hope will
soon be satisfactorily settled.

_Wednesday, August 25th._--At one o'clock this morning, whilst threading
our way amongst the ice-floes that bordered the coast, a herd of musk
oxen was observed browsing quietly on an adjacent hill. Such an
opportunity for obtaining fresh meat was not to be disregarded. A
shooting party was quickly organized, and, whilst the boats were being
prepared and the hunters getting ready their rifles, the ships were
taken into a beautifully snug and land-locked harbour, protected at its
mouth by a large island, situated on the northern coast of Lady Franklin
Bay.

Here the anchors were let go, and the sportsmen despatched in quest of
the game.

Separating into three distinct parties on landing, we advanced
cautiously towards the spot where they were last seen grazing, hoping to
be able to surround and capture the entire herd. Not only did we all
enter keenly into the sport, but our mouths watered at the prospect of
again indulging in fresh meat. We pictured to ourselves smoking-hot
beefsteaks and savoury calf's liver, dainties that we had for some time
been strangers to, being prepared for us after our return to the ship,
never even dreaming of a chance of returning empty-handed.

The disposition of our force was well calculated, for the musk oxen
being alarmed, in all probability by the blowing off of steam from one
of the ships, started in full flight in the direction of a deep ravine.
Here they were met by a couple of the hunters, who discharging their
rifles dropped two of the herd. The remainder turned and dashed up the
side of a steep hill, but only to be met by two more sportsmen, who made
such good use of their time and weapons, that they succeeded in shooting
the remainder, seven in number.

One of the first brought down was the bull of the herd, a noble fellow;
but so tenacious of life that several shots had to be expended, at a
very short range, before he bit the dust.

Elated with our success, and having sent back to the ship for assistance
in conveying the meat on board, we commenced skinning, cleaning, and
cutting up the animals, so as to guard against the possibility of any
delay in doing so being the means of tainting the flesh with the
disagreeable musky odour. This, in consequence of the scarcity of knives
amongst the party, was a long and tedious process; however, by nine
o'clock we had the satisfaction of seeing our "morning's bag" safely on
board, amounting altogether to 2,124 lbs. of good fresh meat. Not a bad
morning's work!

[Illustration: MUSK OXEN.]

These animals, from peculiarities they possess, are placed in a genus
between the sheep and the ox, and are called _ovibos moschatus_. They
are only met with in high latitudes, although traces of them, it is
reported, have been seen as far south as 59° N. lat., but they are
rarely seen in any numbers lower than 67° N. lat.

They have been seen, and shot, in large numbers, by the various search
expeditions wintering at and about Melville Island, and they were also
obtained on the opposite side of Kennedy Channel by the "Polaris" in
1872. The crew of this latter vessel succeeded in shooting twenty-six
during the twelve months they passed in this latitude. They are
gregarious, usually wandering in small herds, although occasionally
single specimens are found. The herd just obtained by us consisted of
one old bull and four old cows, and two young bulls and two young cows.
They subsist on the scant vegetation of these regions--principally
grasses and lichens--which they scrape up from under the snow, when the
ground is covered. They hardly give one the impression of being very
quick and agile, yet they ascend hills and climb over rocks and rough
surfaces with great ease. They are reputed to be very irascible, and
have frequently been known, when wounded, to attack a hunter and
seriously endanger his life. The horns are very broad, covering the brow
and crown of the head, and meeting at their base. Our bullets appeared
to have no effect when fired at the head. From the bull we obtained no
less than 385 lbs. of meat!

Finding that the harbour in which the ships were anchored possessed all
the necessary qualifications for rendering the winter quarters of a
vessel in the Arctic Regions comfortable and secure, Captain Nares
selected this spot as the place in which he would leave the "Discovery."
It appeared in every way adapted for this purpose. A secure harbour,
possessing two narrow entrances, with the water so shallow as to
effectually prevent the larger and heavier pieces of ice from drifting
into it, with a neighbourhood covered with a more luxuriant and richer
vegetation than had hitherto been seen, and giving evidences of being
well stocked with game--for, in addition to the musk oxen, numerous and
recent traces of wolves, foxes, hares, and lemmings had been
observed--the place seemed especially suited for passing the winter in;
and its selection as the winter quarters of our consort was never
regretted.

We all feel that the navigable season is rapidly drawing to a close, and
that very few more days are left us. During the last week the
temperature has never been above the freezing point; and the young ice
has been forming to an alarming extent, even at midday. An advance, if
farther advance is to be made, will be better and more speedily
accomplished with one ship only, than by having two to look after. The
responsibility is lessened, whilst the knowledge that there is another
ship to fall back upon, in case of accidents, removes all anxiety.

When the decision that the two ships were to part company was
promulgated, it was received with satisfaction, although we were all
sorry to lose the companionship of our numerous friends. The evening was
spent in an interchange of visits, and many a sincere and fervent "God
speed," with a silent but expressive squeeze of the hand, was exchanged
between the officers and the men of the two Arctic ships.

In order to strengthen our force on board the "Alert," and to have an
extra sledge party for the purpose, if required, of communicating with
our consort, an officer, Lieutenant Rawson, and seven men were received
from the "Discovery;" the only thing that we were able to give in
exchange being 900 lbs. of the musk oxen just procured--a by no means
despicable offering!

Everything having been satisfactorily arranged, the "Alert" steamed away
from Discovery Harbour on the morning of the 26th, exchanging hearty
cheers with her consort as she passed; she hoisting the signal "May
Providence prosper your efforts," to which we replied "Happy Winter;"
and thus we separated, happy in the knowledge that a safe refuge was
established in our rear, with the unknown before us, fervently praying
for a successful issue to our undertaking.




CHAPTER X.

THE CROSSING OF THE THRESHOLD.


  "And now there came both mist and snow,
   And it grew wondrous cold.
   And ice, mast high, came floating by,
   As green as emerald.
   And through the drifts, the snowy cliffs
   Did send a dismal sheen;
   Nor shapes of men, nor beasts we ken,
   The ice was all between.

        *     *     *     *     *

   With sloping masts and dripping prow,
   As who pursued with yell and blow,
   Still treads the shadow of his foe,
   And forwards bends his head,
   The ship drove fast, loud roared the blast,
   And _Northwards_ aye we fled."

     COLERIDGE.

Now that we are pursuing our solitary journey northwards, we can the
more fully realize that our real work has commenced--the real work
towards the achievement of that success which we all so ardently hope
will crown our efforts.

Now that we are alone we shall be the more ready to avail ourselves of
every opening in the ice that may present itself, every little chance
that may occur, which we should be unable to do, if hampered with a
second ship.

We had hardly advanced three miles, in fact were still just inside the
entrance to the harbour, when the ice, closing in round the point,
barred all egress. In endeavouring to steer clear of these fragments,
the ship grounded on a projecting spit off a small island, but sustained
no injury, floating again immediately she was lightened. As farther
advance was out of the question, for the present, in consequence of the
pack having drifted in, the vessel was secured under the lee of a
natural breakwater at the entrance to Discovery Harbour, ready to take
advantage of the first opportunity of making a start that should offer.

Accompanied by Feilden and Rawson, I made an expedition to Distant Cape,
whence we obtained a good view of Robeson Channel; but it was anything
but an inspiriting one. There appeared to be a perfect block of heavy
ice right across to the Greenland coast, although a few thin blue lines,
denoting streams of water, could be discerned radiating in the pack to
the eastward, but apparently leading to nothing.

Some terns, _Sterna Arctica_, were obtained on a small island, as also
their young and eggs. The nests were simply little round holes, some in
the snow, having a few small pebbles as a bed. Some knots, _Tringa
Canutius_, were also obtained; but no amount of search was successful in
discovering either the egg or the nest of this bird.

A fine sheet of water, situated on the breakwater, being frozen over,
afforded our skaters an opportunity of indulging in their favourite
pastime, and of practising both the inside and outside edges to their
hearts' content.

The following day was also one of enforced idleness, and no movement
could be made with the ship.

[Illustration: KNOTS.]

Snow fell heavily, much to our annoyance, as it prevented us from
keeping a perfect watch on the ice in the channel, in consequence of its
density. The ice was being set up Lady Franklin Bay at a great pace.
Once during the day it appeared inclined to open and give us a chance of
proceeding. The skaters and sportsmen were hurriedly called on board;
but before steam could be raised the opportunity was lost. In navigating
these waters it is necessary to be constantly on the alert, and
prepared, at any moment, to take advantage of any chance that may occur;
but with the small quantity of fuel we have remaining, it is also
necessary to economize and husband that essential aid to advance as much
as possible; our fires were therefore always kept low, except when the
engines were actually working.

A small fragment of driftwood was picked up on the island. It resembled
some hard wood, but was so wasted and worn by attrition that it was
impossible, without subjecting it to microscopic examination, to
determine to what species it belonged.

The large island off which we were secured, and which forms the main
protection to Discovery Harbour, was named Bellot Island, after the
distinguished young French naval officer who lost his life whilst
zealously prosecuting the search for Sir John Franklin and his ill-fated
companions.

_Saturday, August 28th._--A thick fog in the morning effectually
frustrated all our hopes of advancing; but clearing up towards midday,
we were rejoiced at seeing several leads through the ice in the
direction of Cape Beechey.

Steam was quickly raised; but, in attempting to cant, the ship took the
ground, and much to our chagrin and disappointment remained immovable.
This was indeed tantalizing, as we knew by sad experience how capricious
were the motions of the ice, and that every moment was of the utmost
value to us.

Lightening the ship as much as possible, the rising tide floated her in
about a couple of hours, and at 5 P.M., having hoisted up all our boats,
we were again able to proceed.

As we rounded the point we hoisted the colours and dipped them three
times as a parting farewell to our consort, who had just time to whip up
the signal "Good luck" before we were finally shut out from each other's
view.

Rounding Distant Cape, we found the channel full of ice, some of the
floes being very massive and of great extent; but between them existed
narrow lanes of water, in some places choked by loose slack ice, through
which we had little difficulty in penetrating, although at the expense
of our rudder, which was so severely injured by the heavy nature of the
ice as to be rendered almost useless.

At midnight, when within about a mile of Cape Beechey, ice was
encountered stretching right across the channel and pressing so tightly
in to the land as to form a dead block to our farther advance. We had
then by estimation reached the 82° parallel of latitude. This check was
a great damper to our hopes, especially as no bays, or protection of any
description for the ship from the pack, could be found in our immediate
vicinity.

Our only resource was to return a few miles to the southward and there,
in a slight indentation of the land, affording little or no protection,
secure the ship to an ice floe, and employ ourselves at once with the
rather heavy operations connected with shifting the rudder. This work
was performed in about three hours. In the mean time, a small herd of
musk oxen having been observed on shore, our sportsmen were despatched
in pursuit, and we soon had the satisfaction of hearing that they had
succeeded in shooting three, the remainder of the herd having escaped
over the hills. This was a very welcome addition to our stock of fresh
meat. Our mizzen-rigging was now literally groaning with the amount of
meat suspended there; for, in addition to the recent accumulation of
musk-ox flesh, the remainder of our sheep, some seven or eight in
number, had been slaughtered and added to the general stock. So hard
were the portions frozen, that they were very truthfully compared to
the legs of mutton and sides of sheep made of wood usually seen hanging
in the front of a butcher's shop in a pantomime!

The bay in which we had taken refuge was, in consequence of the work
there performed, named "Shift-Rudder Bay."

_Sunday, August 29th._--At noon we were again under weigh, Captain Nares
having ascended a high hill during the forenoon, from which he had
observed an opening in the pack by which we might proceed. Cape Beechey
was easily rounded; but, in consequence of the floes closing into the
land, we had a very narrow escape of being caught whilst going round
Cape Frederick VII., and it was only by pressing the ship at her utmost
speed that we succeeded in rounding it in safety. Two minutes after we
were round, the floe came into contact with the high steep side of the
cape, crumbling against it and piling up hummock on hummock from the
irresistible force of the outside pressure. What would have been the
fate of our poor little frail ship had she been caught between these two
stupendous works of nature?

The ice had now assumed a totally different character from any that we
had hitherto seen, being infinitely more massive and heavy. The
thickness was estimated at from eighty to one hundred feet, whilst the
hummocks formed along the shore and round the edges of the floes were
fully twenty-five and thirty feet in height.

These large hummocks received from us the name of "floe-bergs," the term
being intended to convey the idea of masses of ice more bulky than
ordinary hummocks, and formed in a different way. Some of these huge
fragments that fringed the coast line were fully sixty feet in height,
yet they were _aground_ in some ten and twelve fathoms of water! This
will give some idea of the massive nature of the ice with which we were
contending. The region of icebergs, the creation of land glaciers, had
been passed, and in their place were substituted these floe-bergs, the
production of a floating glacier.

To contend with this massive ice required the greatest care and
judgment, for little respect is shown to the unfortunate vessel that is
exposed to the fatal embrace of what has been aptly termed by our old
Arctic navigators "ye unmercifull yce." Before midnight the ship was
secured to a large floe in Lincoln Bay, the pack having again closed in
to the land, thereby obstructing our advance.

The positions of the different bays and headlands on the western side of
Robeson Channel we found strangely at variance with the positions
assigned to them on the latest American chart; indeed, the shore, as
delineated, was quite unrecognizable. The land on the opposite side of
the channel seemed, on the contrary, to be very accurately laid down.

With the exception of a little lemming (_Myodes torquatus_), captured by
Captain Nares when he landed in the morning, a solitary dovekie (_Uria
grylle_), fluttering about in the ice-encumbered waters, was the only
living thing seen during the day. The first-named little animal was the
first of its species caught alive, and excited considerable interest,
every one being desirous of obtaining a peep at the diminutive little
quadruped. One man, more fortunate than his messmates, was literally
besieged, by those less lucky than himself in seeing the animal, with
numerous questions regarding its appearance. When asked its colour the
man hesitated, finding it difficult to describe; but suddenly
brightening up he said, "Why, _lemon_ colour, of course!" an answer that
appeared quite satisfactory, agreeing, as it did, so well with its name!

These little mouse-like creatures are the smallest, yet the most
numerous and common, of all quadrupeds in the Arctic regions. They are
extremely pugnacious and fearless, and often attract attention, when
they would otherwise be unobserved, by their shrill cries of rage at an
approaching step. They hibernate in burrows under the snow, and live
during the summer on the scant vegetation of these regions. When roasted
and served up on toast, like sparrows, they were found to be excellent
eating, although provokingly small.

On the same hill where the capture of this little animal was effected,
our naturalist picked up a marine shell (_Astarte borealis_), about a
mile from the beach, and at least a hundred and fifty feet above the
level of the sea. This shell was in excellent preservation, the
epidermis still adhering, and in a perfect state.

The apparent freshness of this specimen gave rise to many conjectures
regarding the theory of the upheaval of the land, the evidence pointing
conclusively to its being both recent and rapid. These regions offer a
wide field for the geologist and student of natural history.

_Monday, August 30th._--During the forenoon, there being no prospect of
pushing forward, a large depôt of provisions, consisting of one thousand
rations, was landed. This depôt was established for the use of
travelling parties from the "Discovery," or from our own ship should it
be determined to despatch any to the southward. It was not without some
difficulty that the heavy casks were transported from the boats to a
suitable position sufficiently removed from the encroachments of the
pack. Their transit was only effected by a nautical process known as
"parbuckling," by which casks and barrels are either hauled up or
lowered down steep inclines.

On the brow of the hill immediately above the depôt a large cairn was
erected, in which the usual records were deposited; the provisions
themselves being so placed as to form a very conspicuous landmark to any
ship passing to the northward, or to any sledge party travelling along
the coast line. Whilst engaged in these operations, the pack was
observed to slacken considerably, several leads of water opening to the
northward, which we fondly hoped would afford us an easy passage towards
the attainment of that object which was ever uppermost in our thoughts,
and for which we were ready and willing to make any sacrifice--the
object of exploring the unknown region, and of reaching a high northern
latitude.

Steam was accordingly quickly raised, and another attempt made to
proceed; but alas! having incautiously been tempted by promising lanes
of water to stray farther from the land than had hitherto been our
custom, we were soon hopelessly beset by very heavy ice, of at least
eighty or one hundred feet in thickness, and fully ten feet above the
surface of the water. So high was it that our boats, suspended at the
davits, were seriously endangered, and had in consequence to be "turned
in" to avoid being crushed altogether. We were, fortunately, surrounded
by loose pieces of broken-off ice, which acting as cushions between the
ship and the more massive floes, thereby saved the "Alert" from an
unpleasant nip. As there was no saying when we might be deprived of the
friendly aid of these "buffers," by any sudden movement of the pack,
steam was kept ready in both boilers in order that we might take
immediate advantage of any such motion for the purpose of extricating
our vessel from her very unpleasant and perilous position.

An anxious night was spent by all on board, and many ineffectual
attempts were made to push our way through cracks in the pack that
appeared to be inclined to open. Sleep was out of the question--indeed,
was hardly thought of--every one being prepared, with his little bag of
necessaries, to abandon the ship when such an order, which seemed
inevitable, should be given.

On the following day, by dint of much labour, a space was cleared round
the stern of the vessel, which enabled us to ship our rudder, and, the
ice having slackened a little, by constantly steaming ahead and astern
we succeeded in clearing a larger space in which the ship could be
worked, when, boldly attacking the pack, we forced our way through, and
with relieved minds and thankful hearts extricated ourselves from our
dangerous position, and once more secured the ship in Lincoln Bay. The
time occupied in steaming through the pack, a distance of about a mile,
was exactly five hours!

The ice was observed to be still tightly packed against Cape Union, and
consequently hindered us from pushing on.

We had much reason to be grateful for our safe deliverance from the
pack, for, shortly after our extrication, a heavy gale sprang up from
the S.W., the effect of which on the ship, beset in such ponderous ice,
must have been disastrous in the extreme, and would in all probability
have been fatal. Ice navigators, however, are not, as a rule, prone to
indulge in ideas as to "what _might_ have occurred had this or that
happened:" their thoughts and minds must be directed entirely to the
present and the future, only too happy and thankful, as the days go by,
to find they still have their own good vessel to sustain them, and carry
them through another day. To our engines we owed a deep debt of
gratitude, for without the powerful aid of steam we should have been
unable, before the gale burst upon us, to have effected our deliverance.

Towards midnight the gale freshened considerably, snow fell, and the
weather altogether had a very ugly and threatening appearance. We,
however, consoled ourselves with the hope that it would clear the ice
out of the channel, and thus enable us to proceed. The noise of the pack
grinding and squeezing as it was tossed about by a short turbulent sea
was anything but pleasing to listen to, resembling in a measure the
sound created by the dashing of the surf over a rock-bound coast. One
can easily imagine the feelings of those old navigators, in their frail
little barks, which gave rise to the expression that "the irksome noyse
of the yce bred strange conceits among us." Very "irksome" indeed was
that noise to us, and many were the "strange conceits" that we indulged
in as we listened to the soughing of the wind and the crashing of the
ice!

_Wednesday, September 1st_, must always be regarded, at least by all
those connected with, or interested in, Arctic research, as a red-letter
day in the annals of naval enterprise, and indeed in English history,
for on this day a British man-of-war reached a higher northern latitude
than had ever yet been reached by any ship, and we had the extreme
gratification of hoisting the colours at noon to celebrate the event.

Never was an ensign hoisted by such a number of eager and willing hands.
All were desirous of participating in this act, and of sharing the
honours of this important proceeding.

Our success in thus attaining a high position was due entirely to the
S.W. gale, which blew with such fury, that by nine o'clock in the
forenoon the pack was driven so far off the land that a narrow channel
of water was left extending to the northward along the coast line. We
were not long in availing ourselves of this grand opportunity. The ice
anchors were quickly hauled on board, sail was made, and, with the steam
ready in case it should be required, we were soon bowling along at the
rate of ten knots an hour, "and _northwards_ aye we fled." So far had
the pack been blown off the shore, that the channel of water was fully
three miles in breadth.

It would be impossible to describe the feelings of those on board the
"Alert" at this unexpected piece of good fortune; for the lateness of
the season, combined with the unprecedented solidity of the ice, had in
a measure damped our ardour and forced us to realize the apparent
hopelessness of attaining, this year, a high northern latitude. Eagerly
and anxiously were the different reports from the crow's-nest listened
to, and still to the delight of all came down the cheery words, "Water,
plenty of water ahead, and no ice in sight."

Every one was joyous and elated as, at noon, they assembled round the
ward-room table to inaugurate, in a glass of Madeira, generously
supplied by our wine caterer, the auspicious event, and to wish success
to their flag.

Unfortunately snow was falling heavily, and the weather was so thick
that little could be seen. We could just make out that the land along
which we were steering, and which trended to the N.E., was composed of
high cliffs with numerous ravines and valleys running down to the
water's edge; but, to our disappointment, we failed to observe either
harbour or bay, or any place that would afford a refuge or protection of
any description for the ship. Arctic navigation, like everything else,
has its dark as well as its bright side!

After rounding Cape Union the coast trended away to the westward of
north, and the wind, which had hitherto been blowing so fresh, suddenly
subsided. So did our joyful anticipations, for one short hour after our
ensign had fluttered out so gaily before the breeze, we were stopped by
a barrier of ice of great thickness, through which there was no prospect
of penetrating. The land also appeared to lose the bold rugged character
that had been such a prominent feature between Lincoln Bay and Cape
Union, and now assumed an undulating form as it trended away to the
N.W., the coast being low and entirely covered with snow.

Having set our minds at rest that a farther advance, for the present,
was perfectly impracticable, we reluctantly retraced our steps to the
southward for about a mile, and secured the ship inside a fringe of
grounded floe-bergs that lined the coast and which promised to afford us
protection, in fact, the only protection, from the irresistible pressure
of the pack. A depôt of provisions, consisting of two thousand rations,
was immediately landed, in order to guard against all accidents that
might happen to the ship, and also to be of use to our southern
travelling parties, should we succeed in reaching a higher latitude in
the ship. The weather still continued thick; but during a clear interval
we succeeded in getting a good view to the northward from the summit of
a hill about two hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea. But
it was a most cheerless scene that presented itself in that direction.
Nothing but ice, tight and impassable, was to be seen--a solid
impenetrable mass that no amount of imagination or theoretical belief
could ever twist into an "open Polar Sea"!

We were reluctantly compelled to come to the conclusion that we had in
reality arrived on the shore of the Polar Ocean; a frozen sea, of such a
character as utterly to preclude the possibility of its being navigated
by a ship; a wide expanse of ice and snow, whose impenetrable fastnesses
seemed to defy the puny efforts of mortal men to invade and expose their
hitherto sealed and hidden mysteries. Still we did not give up all hope
of reaching a higher northern position in the ship. We knew the
wonderful effect that a gale of wind would produce on the pack, and we
hoped when the weather cleared, we should still be able to see, and
reach, land to the northward.

For the present then we could only put our trust in Providence, who had
already guarded and favoured us almost beyond our most sanguine
expectations, and pray that He might still continue to watch over and
protect us, and grant us such a measure of success as would increase our
knowledge of this world and thereby add to His glory.




CHAPTER XI.

FLOE-BERG BEACH.


  "The cold earth slept below,
   Above the cold sky shone,
   And all around
   With a chilling sound,
   From caves of ice and fields of snow
   The breath of night like death did flow
   Beneath the sinking moon."

     SHELLEY.

In order more effectually to ensure the safety of the ship, the men were
at once employed in removing a large quantity of loose ice, directly
inside the line of friendly floe-bergs, so as to allow the vessel to be
hauled farther in and thus obtain more complete protection from the
encroachments of the pack. This was no easy work, for the wind had again
sprung up and blew with terrific violence, whilst the temperature had
fallen as much as ten degrees below the freezing point.

Before we had succeeded in completing our preparations a violent squall
struck the ship, the lines by which she was temporarily held parted, and
we were blown clean out from our harbour of refuge. Steam was instantly
raised, and an anchor let go, which fortunately brought us up. During
the succeeding hours the gale blew with increased fury, but being an
off-shore wind, we were in a measure protected, whilst it had the effect
of driving the pack off, so as to raise our hopes at the prospect of
again proceeding northward.

Suddenly, without any warning, the wind shifted, and drove the whole
body of the pack towards the land. Our danger now was imminent. To be
caught between the fast closing ice and the grounded floe-bergs would be
certain destruction, to escape to the southward before the pack impinged
on Cape Union was quite out of the question, and to steam into the pack
would be madness. Our only hope of safety was to endeavour to haul the
ship inside the grounded floe-bergs, and again avail ourselves of their
friendly protection. No time was to be lost; it was a case of almost
life and death to us. The men, always to be depended upon in a crisis
like the present, responded to the call with alacrity, and by dint of
hard work we succeeded in hauling the ship into a safe position. We were
not a moment too soon: it was a race between the ice and the ship, in
which the latter was, fortunately for us, the victor. Scarcely had we
reached our place of refuge when the pack came into contact with the
bergs, scrunching and squeezing in a most unpleasant manner as it swept
by, and serving to illustrate, in a very practical way, the dreadful
fate to which we should have been subjected had we not been fortunate
enough to escape in time.

It is difficult to imagine a more desolate position to pass a winter
than the one in which we were placed. Our ship was on an exposed and,
apparently, unsafe coast, without even the protection of a bay, within
one hundred yards of a low undulating beach, on which, should any
extraordinary pressure of the pack destroy our protecting bergs, we must
inevitably be forced and wrecked, exposed to all the rigours of an
Arctic winter; and yet, notwithstanding these unenviable drawbacks, the
official announcement that this place had been decided upon as our
winter quarters was received with a deep feeling of relief and
thankfulness. This determination was not, however, arrived at for some
days, when, from careful watching of the pack, it was decided that a
farther advance was absolutely impossible.

Winter was advancing upon us with rapid strides, eager to seize us in
its icy grasp; so quickly, indeed, that in two days we were able to
_walk on shore_ on the new and rapidly forming ice. The now steadily
falling temperature was another and a sure indication that the navigable
season was at an end.

Without a harbour or projecting headland of any description to protect
our good ship from the furious gusts that we must naturally expect, the
"Alert" lay, apparently, in a vast frozen ocean, having land on one
side, but bounded on the other by the chaotic and illimitable polar
pack.

The land had already assumed a wintry aspect, and the ship, to be in
unison with her surroundings, had also put on a garb of snow and ice,
each spar and each rope being double its ordinary thickness from the
accumulation of frost rime. Everything was white, solemn, and motionless
around us; no voice of bird or beast was heard to disturb the silence.
All was as still and silent as the tomb--a silence that until then had
never been broken by the presence of man.

  "No other noyse, nor people's troublous cries,
   As still are wont to annoy the walled towne,
   Might there be heard, but carelesse quiet lyes,
   Wrapt in eternal silence far from enemyes."

Night, to which we had long been strangers, gradually came upon us, the
darkness increasing perceptibly as each day passed away. From the 3rd of
September, on which day the sun set at midnight, the days decreased in
length, and the stars were again seen to twinkle in the heavens.

From a neighbouring hill we obtained a clear and unobstructed view of
our surroundings. The coast continued to the N.W. in a succession of
large bays, terminating in an abrupt cape some forty miles distant. In
order to assimilate the names of the various bays and headlands with
those of the American chart, this extreme point was called Cape Joseph
Henry. Beyond Cape Joseph Henry all was conjecture. It might be the
southern extreme of a large bay or inlet, or it might be the northern
termination of land. No land of any description could be seen to the
northward--nothing but the rugged pack. So formidable and compact
appeared this icy barrier that it seemed to stand out bold and resolute
in its strength, effectually setting at defiance the puny efforts of man
to penetrate its solidity, saying, as it were, "Thus far shalt thou go,
and no farther." And, indeed, we had much cause to be thankful to Him
who had hitherto watched over and protected us in many dangers, and who
had allowed us to penetrate thus far into this remote and unknown
portion of the globe.

A long range of high hills could be seen to the westward, whilst on the
opposite side of the channel the distant land of Greenland was
indistinctly observed, its most northern point bearing about N.E.
(_true_).[1]

The positions of the northern extremes of land, on either side of the
channel, were, for a time, a matter of some uncertainty, and it was
really doubtful which was situated in the highest latitude. It was not
until after the return of the autumn sledging parties that this
important question was definitely decided, the land on the western side
proving to be nearest the Pole.

It must not be imagined, because farther progress in the ship had
ceased, that our labours had in any way diminished; on the contrary, we
felt that our real work was about to commence: a work in which we should
all share in a greater or less degree, and a work the achievement of
which had been our sole engrossing thought since leaving England.

Before finally deciding upon the position of our winter quarters,
Captain Nares was desirous of ascertaining whether a more protected spot
could be found for the ship in the numerous bays to the N.W. than the
exposed position she then occupied.

Accordingly, early on the 5th of September, Aldrich and myself started
away with a couple of sledges, each drawn by a team of eight dogs, under
the guidance of Frederic the Eskimo, and Petersen, the Danish
dog-driver. Our route lay along the edge of the coast, where, at times,
we were able to take advantage of the ice-foot on which to travel; but
as a rule there was no continuity of this land-ice, and we were
compelled to strike across an undulating country, deeply covered with
snow, ascending hills frequently as high as two and three hundred feet
above the level of the sea, whence we obtained good views of the
surrounding country. The general direction in which we travelled was
N.W., the coast line being a series of indentations in the land, some of
such a size as to form fine harbours and bays; but, alas! they could not
be utilized for our ship, for they were rendered unapproachable by a
chain of high hummocks extending in every case across the entrances,
whilst the water in the harbours appeared to be permanently frozen, and
therefore inaccessible for a vessel.

It was a novel sensation to us to be thus dashing along on our light
sledges, exploring a perfectly unknown country: a wild and barren tract
of land, a snow-covered expanse, receding from our view in long
undulations into the interior, until lost amongst the high
conical-shaped hills of from one to two thousand feet in height, that
invariably form the chief feature of Arctic scenery in these high
latitudes. At noon we made a brief halt for luncheon, our appetites
having been rendered doubly keen by the sharp cold air of a temperature
some twenty degrees below freezing point; but which had, until the halt
was called, been unheeded, the constant jumping on and off the sledge
and assisting the dogs over difficulties having kept us in a perfect
glow. Innocently pulling off our mitts, we commenced a vigorous
onslaught upon the Australian beef with which we had supplied ourselves;
but the first contact of our fingers with the handles of the knives
proved the folly of such a proceeding, and compelled us again to resume
our mitts. These, however, were now frozen so hard that they were with
difficulty put on! Petersen using a tin cup to drink a little rum mixed
with snow, and disregarding his mitts, burnt his hand rather severely,
whilst we were all obliged to rub the edge of the cup well with our
hands before putting it to our lips!

These little inconveniences were to us a source of great merriment; in
fact, they must really be experienced before they can be properly and
thoroughly appreciated!

The Eskimo dogs appear to me to be very differently constituted to their
more civilized brethren. In England a halt for lunch whilst shooting is
a signal for all the dogs to assemble and importune for fragments of the
feast, which they greedily devour. My own dog "Nellie" would never be
satisfied without obtaining a very large share of any impromptu meal.
With the Eskimo dogs it is quite different. As soon as the sledges are
halted they lie down and sleep, and rarely attempt to move until they
are required to do so. Should a piece of meat be thrown to them they may
condescend to swallow it; but they turn up their noses at a piece of
biscuit, utterly despising it as an article of food. Yet these dogs are
excessively voracious, and always hungry! Nothing in the shape of fresh
meat, or even skin, is safe from their insatiable voracity; even the
thongs that are used for lashing the different parts of a sledge
together, unless they have been well rubbed over with tar, are unsafe,
and will most assuredly be gnawed off. Notwithstanding this, they have
little liking for cooked meat, positively refuse biscuit, and are not
troublesome when they observe you eating.

We were _en route_ again directly our luncheon was consumed, the dogs
starting off with renewed vigour and speed after their short rest, when
we came suddenly upon a precipitous ravine, almost too late to stop our
team in their headlong career. By springing out of the sledge and
holding on with might and main, we just succeeded in stopping them in
time, pulling up almost on the very brink of the precipice. Retracing
our steps for a short distance, we left the hills, and continued our
course along the coast line, until our farther progress was checked by
water, a channel connecting two large bays, which from their shape
afterwards went by the name of Dumb-bell Bay.

[Illustration: DOG-SLEDGE IN DIFFICULTIES.]

Swimming about in this little sheet of water was a small flock of
eider-ducks, eleven in number, that appeared to be as much surprised at
beholding us as we were at seeing them. They did not, however, seem
disposed to fly away. The only weapon we had was a rifle with twelve
rounds of ammunition. With this we commenced hostilities, rejoicing in
the anticipation of a fresh-meat meal when we returned to the ship. So
utterly unconcerned did they appear that we actually succeeded in
shooting five before the remainder took flight; but to our great chagrin
we were unable to possess ourselves of any of our victims, as they had
unfortunately all fallen into the water _just_ out of our reach. This
was very tantalizing, as neither of us felt inclined to risk being
frozen for the sake even of roast duck by plunging in after them. We
were reluctantly compelled to leave them. During the following week,
however, they were recovered, having all been frozen together in the
water. With the exception of these birds, no animal life was seen,
although we observed numerous traces of ptarmigan and lemmings. Tufts of
saxifrage and some grasses were seen, but so thickly was the land
covered with snow that it was impossible to arrive at any conclusion
regarding the vegetation of the country.

In consequence of the report that we brought back, Floe-berg Beach was
decided upon as the position of the "Alert's" winter quarters, and
preparations were immediately made for securing the ship, and for making
as extensive an exploration of the land to the northward as the duration
of light would admit.

The land in our immediate vicinity was also very naturally an object of
special interest to us. Speculations were rife regarding its extent and
formation. The possibility of obtaining game of any description was a
matter of much importance to us who were doomed to pass so many months
in these icy solitudes. Alas! any hopes that we had cherished in this
respect were soon found to be fallacious. The land, for the succeeding
eight months, proved to be as devoid of life as its appearance was
sterile and desolate.

On the 9th of September Aldrich went away with the dog-sledges,
accompanied by two or three of his messmates, for three days, for the
purpose of more thoroughly exploring the country in the hopes of
obtaining game.

On the 11th I left the ship with Parr and Egerton and eighteen men, with
the object of advancing a couple of boats to the northward along the
proposed route of exploration. It was thought that they might prove
useful during the future sledging operations of the expedition. We came
back in four days, having successfully accomplished our mission.

On our return journey we encountered a furious gale of wind, which broke
up the ice along the coast line, and forced us to drag our sledges over
the hills, the summits of which were almost bare, the force of the gale
having blown the snow completely off. Any one who has ever attempted to
drag a sledge over a rough stony road will know the severe toil and
labour that is required to be exerted in order to make any progress.
Crossing a bay we made a short halt for luncheon on the ice, under the
lee of a high hummock, and narrowly escaped destruction from having
selected such a spot for a halt. Without our observing it, the ice began
breaking up, and it was only by strenuous exertions that we succeeded in
reaching the shore in safety, whence we observed the ice on which we had
recently been encamped drifting in small fragments to seaward. If this
disruption had not been observed in time, nothing short of a miracle
could have saved us.

The violence of the gale was so terrific that pebbles and shingle were
blown along by its force, mercilessly striking our faces and causing
acute pain. Still we had to struggle onwards, for there was no possible
lee under which we could pitch our tents and obtain shelter. An attempt
to do so was unsuccessful, and had to be abandoned.

One of the men, failing from sheer exhaustion, had to be carried on the
sledge. This seriously added to our difficulties, for it increased the
load which the wearied sledgers had to drag, whilst it diminished the
power of the draggers. But the indomitable spirit and pluck of the
British sailor overcame all obstacles, and after an arduous march of
eighteen hours in the face of a furious hurricane, we arrived, to our no
small relief, alongside the "Alert." Never was a goal attained with more
pleasure and satisfaction than was our Arctic home reached that night by
the fatigued and half-blinded sledge travellers. Untrained as they were,
this forced march had seriously overtaxed their strength and entailed
much suffering. Some few were, on their return, placed under the
doctor's hands.

Meanwhile those remaining on board the ship, but few in number, spent an
anxious and trying time.

The young ice, by which the ship was surrounded, had been completely
broken up by the fury of the gale, and had disappeared; and had it not
been for the protecting grounded floe-bergs, small mercy would have been
shown to the good ship "Alert," by "ye thick-ribbed ice."

Small fragments of the pack, large enough, however, to be unpleasant
and disagreeable neighbours, would occasionally find their way between
the floe-bergs, and drift about in our immediate vicinity. These it was
our object to secure as speedily as possible, otherwise their incessant
movement backwards and forwards with the tide would break up the young
ice, or even prevent it from forming. The ominous grinding noise of the
pack, as it swayed to and fro in the channel, and the terrible war that
appeared to be raging between the floes as they came into furious
contact with each other, pulverizing their sides or rending huge
fragments from their edges, was a sound and sight that struck us with
wonder and awe.

The grandeur and solemnity of the scene gave rise to thoughts of our own
weakness and insignificance amidst these wonders of the far north.

On the morning after our return on board, the wind having subsided
considerably, and a large channel of water existing between the land and
the pack, Captain Nares determined upon seeking more secure and
sheltered winter quarters in one of the numerous bays immediately to the
northward of our present position, in the hope that the gale would have
broken up the ice and so afforded us an entrance.

Steam was quickly raised and the rudder shipped; but from some, at that
time, unknown cause we were unable to lower the screw into its place, or
rather to enter the shaft. Our chance therefore of getting away was
lost, as before midnight the gale was blowing as furiously as ever. The
following day, however, the weather again cleared up, and renewed
attempts were made to ship the screw, but always without success. Whilst
so engaged a shift of wind occurred, and we had the mortification of
seeing the whole body of the pack close the channel of water and resume
its place along the coast, where it remained during the entire winter,
effectually sealing us up. We had good reason to be thankful to our
screw for causing our detention, for a subsequent examination of the
coast proved only too plainly that the ice had not been broken up and
blown out of any of the harbours that we should have sought, and that we
should not have found any better sheltered position than the one we then
occupied. In all probability we should have been caught by the fast
closing ice--an occurrence rather unpleasant even to speculate upon. We
afterwards discovered the reason for the failure of our attempts to ship
the screw. On lowering it into the water, the ice formed so quickly in
the "boss" that it effectually prevented the shaft from entering!

The ship was now secured by lines to the floe-bergs, and by anchors and
cables to the shore, until she should be permanently frozen in.

We also busily engaged ourselves in making the necessary preparations
for the autumn sledging operations. Travelling garments were issued,
tents thoroughly overhauled, and sledges prepared.

On the 22nd of September Aldrich was despatched with three men and two
dog-sledges, provisioned for fourteen days, as a sort of pioneering
expedition; his orders being to proceed, if possible, as far as Cape
Joseph Henry, there to erect a cairn and deposit a record with full
information regarding the practicability of travelling, that would be of
use to the main party which would follow him in a few days.

By the 25th the ice had again formed around the ship, and was of
sufficient thickness to bear heavy weights. This was the day selected
for the departure of the sledging parties. The force consisted of three
eight-men sledges, officered by Parr and May, the whole under my
command. My sledge was named the "Marco Polo;" Parr's, the "Victoria;"
and May's, the "Hercules." My orders were to advance as far to the
northward, along the land, as possible, and at our extreme position to
establish a large depôt of provisions in readiness for the use of the
main exploring parties that would be despatched in that direction during
the ensuing spring. Our provisions were all carefully weighed and
packed; the maximum weight dragged by each man on leaving the ship was
201 lbs., decreasing at the rate of 3 lbs. per diem due to the
consumption of provisions. The slight experience that we obtained during
the previous few days' sledging stood us now in good stead; the men who
had recently been so employed being regarded as veterans in sledge work
by those who were for the first time being initiated into its mysteries.
All started in the very best spirits, animated by the same desire to do
their utmost, and to achieve, so far as in them lay, success and honour
for the expedition.

The details connected with the sledging operations must have a chapter
to themselves. I make no apology for not entering more fully into the
journeys performed by Aldrich and others, as the description of one
sledging expedition suffices for all, and I am, of course, best able to
describe those in which I was myself personally engaged.


FOOTNOTE:

  [1] All compass bearings referred to are _true_, unless stated to be
    _magnetic_.




CHAPTER XII.

AUTUMN TRAVELLING.


  "When suddenly a grosse fog over spred,
     With his dull vapour all that desert has,
   And heaven's cheerfull face enveloped;
     That all things one, and one as nothing was,
     And this great universe seemed one confused mass.

  "Thereat they greatly were dismay'd, ne wist
     How to direct theyr way in darknes wide;
   But feared to wander in that wastefull miste,
     For tombling into mischiefe unespyde:
     Worse is the danger hidden than descride."

     SPENSER.

There are, I am sure, many among those "who stay at home at ease" who
have little or no idea of what sledge travelling in the Arctic Regions
is like, and who even fail to realize that it entails hard work of any
description.

Their imaginations picture the travellers seated on sledges, comfortably
wrapped up in shawls and furs, and drawn by a team of dogs or reindeer
gaily caparisoned, with their bells jingling as they dash along at a
rapid pace over a smooth plain of snow and ice. They imagine that after
the toil of the day is over a large fire is built up, and, having
obtained some salmon, venison, or other product of the chase, a
sumptuous meal is cooked and discussed, after which the sledge
travellers compose themselves to sleep in a nice warm snow-house or
wooden hut constructed by their attendants. All this sounds very
delightful, and is, to my personal knowledge, believed to be a fairly
true picture of Arctic life by a large majority of people. Unfortunately
it is the very reverse of sledge life on the shores of the Polar Ocean.
Let us see what it is like in reality. There, great climatic hardships
have to be endured, combined with physical labour of no ordinary
description. No change or variety of any sort can be made in the fare,
nor can more than a certain allowance be allotted to each individual.
When that is consumed, hunger must be borne with patience until the time
has arrived for the next meal, for until that is due nothing is
obtainable.

For shelter at night time, a tent made of the very lightest material
(for economy of weight is the most important point to be considered in
sledge travelling) is all the covering to protect the travellers from
the furious onslaughts of a biting wind, always accompanied by a
blinding snow-drift. So searching is the latter that in spite of all
efforts it will penetrate through every little orifice into the tent,
covering everything inside with a layer of minute snow crystals, and
rendering an uncomfortable night still more comfortless and
disagreeable. Rolled up in their bags, with the hard frozen sea as their
couch, affording little rest to their aching and frost-bitten limbs, the
wearied sledgers vainly attempt in sleep to become oblivious to the
present. As for a fire by which circulation might be restored in their
numbed extremities, that is quite out of the question. A limited amount
of spirits of wine, barely sufficient to cook the allowance of
provisions, is all the fuel with which they are supplied. Even if the
material for making a fire, such as driftwood, was available, it would
be impossible to benefit by it, for it could not be lighted in the tent,
whilst outside, under such circumstances as I have related, it would be
impracticable.

This is a slight sketch of what has to be endured by the Polar sledge
traveller; but a cheerful spirit, a contented mind, and an ardent desire
to achieve success are quite sufficient to enable him to withstand the
attendant hardships, and even to laugh at and treat them with contempt.

I cannot do better than quote the words of Sir George Nares, who,
addressing our men before leaving England, whilst explaining to them the
nature of the work that they were about to engage in, and speaking from
his own personal previous experience of sledge life, said, "That if they
could imagine the hardest work they had ever been called upon to perform
in their lives intensified to the utmost degree, it would only be as
child's play in comparison with the work they would have to perform
whilst sledging!"

These prophetic words were fully realized, and were often recalled and
commented on by the men during their initiation into the work of
sledging.

The autumn sledge travelling has been alluded to by a very distinguished
and successful explorer in the Arctic Regions, as "the very acme of
discomfort." In the accuracy of this statement we, one and all, fully
concurred.

The principal reasons that sledging at this period of the year is more
disagreeable than in the spring are, first, because the rapidly
decreasing light caused by the sun's altitude lessening day by day is
decidedly opposed to either work or comfort. Before our return from
sledging, the sun had illumined for the last time, until its
reappearance the following year, the summits of the snow-covered hills
in the vicinity of the "Alert's" winter quarters, and had sunk, slowly
and majestically, beneath the southern horizon, bequeathing to us only
for a short time a few bright rays until the long polar night wrapped us
in its sombre mantle, and enveloped us in gloom and obscurity for many
months.

  "'Tis gone, that bright and orbèd blaze,
   Fast fading from our wistful gaze;
   Yon mantling cloud has hid from sight
   The last faint pulse of quivering light."

A few hours of twilight, therefore, were all we had in which to work.
Candles we had none. Our breakfast before we started in the morning and
our supper after we halted in the evening had to be discussed in gloomy
darkness. Our notes had to be written in our journals before entering
the tent, even at the risk of frost-bitten fingers.

In the second place, at this time of the year the ice, over which the
sledges have to be dragged, is of very recent formation, and is
consequently weak and dangerous. The travellers are therefore more
liable to immersion by breaking through the thin ice at this period of
the season than they are during the spring, or indeed at any other time.
Young, and therefore smooth and level ice, covered with a treacherous
layer of snow, often entices the unwary to turn from the rougher but
stronger floes to travel on its flat plain surface. An immersion is
invariably the result. Sometimes the leading men on the drag-ropes break
through this weak ice first, and, by so doing, time is given to stop and
save the sledge; but very often the ice directly under the sledge gives
way without previous warning, when every effort must be at once directed
to save the sledge. Although this is always successful it is generally
at the expense of the greater part of the biscuit, which is so saturated
with salt water as to be uneatable, and the wetting, and the consequent
freezing, of the tent with all its appurtenances. Nothing more wretched
and miserable can be conceived than having to pass the night in a
stiffly frozen sleeping bag, inside a tent, which at the best of times
is barely large enough to accommodate the party of men for whom it is
allotted, but which has been considerably shrunk by being frozen. Not
the least unpleasant part is the process of pitching it, for having
become as hard as a piece of board, it is with great difficulty
unfolded; more especially as this operation has to be performed after
the fatigues of a hard day's sledging, by wearied men, in such a
temperature that it is impossible to expose the hands bare to the cold,
and it must therefore be carried out with mittens on.

The constant wetting of the feet also renders the men more liable to
frost-bites; whilst the heavy fall of snow, usually experienced in these
regions during the autumn, renders the work ten times more arduous. For
the air thus becomes so thick that it is impossible to see many yards
ahead, and we have to trust solely to a compass as a guide. We might, in
truth, fairly quote the lines from Spenser's "Faërie Queene," at the
heading of the present chapter, as illustrating our difficulties in
this respect--

  "That all things one, and one as nothing was,
   And this great universe seemed one confused mass."

And lastly this continual breaking through the ice of both men and
sledge, combined with the heavy and incessant fall of snow, renders the
task of walking and dragging a sledge one of extreme labour and anxiety.
These were the little difficulties we had to experience during our
novitiate in this autumn sledge travelling, and they must be generally
expected by explorers who go away so late in the year.

[Illustration: START OF THE AUTUMN SLEDGES.]

In a future chapter I propose to give a full account of the routine of
sledge life, of the equipment and scale of provisions, and of all other
details connected with sledging operations in the Arctic Regions. I will
now, therefore, proceed at once to give a brief account of our journey,
for the purpose of laying out a depôt in the autumn, which occupied
three weeks of very severe and harassing work.

At eight o'clock, on the 25th of September, the three officers
commanding sledges, myself and Lieutenants Parr and May, assembled at
breakfast in sledging costume, and a rattling good breakfast our caterer
gave us. At 8.15 our standards were displayed on the sledges, the ship
hoisting the ensign. At 8.30 the crews took up their stations alongside
their respective sledges, and the order was given to march. Our men
stepped out bravely, and as they did so three hearty cheers resounded
from the ship. I called a halt and returned the salute with as much
emphasis as twenty-four powerful pairs of lungs could give, and then
continued the march. The young ice seemed strong enough to bear, so
leaving the ice foot, on which the travelling was heavy, we ventured on
the new ice. But we had not gone more than a mile when, to my horror,
Parr's sledge, the "Victoria," went through! It was a case of all hands
to the rescue, and after fifteen minutes of hard tugging and hauling we
succeeded in dragging it upon a firm piece of ice. But everything was
thoroughly saturated. There was nothing for it but to send back at once
for another sledge and dry things. This being done, we again proceeded
for about three miles, when suddenly I heard a crack, and looking round,
there was my sledge through! We dragged it on shore, and unpacking at
once, I was glad to find that we had suffered less than the "Victoria;"
but it was bad enough. Our tent and gear at the top were of course
saturated, and nearly all our biscuit spoilt. However, I did not think
it advisable to return, so re-packing we made another start, and shortly
afterwards were rejoined by Parr. After marching for twelve miles I
halted for the night with the temperature 3° below zero, the tent frozen
hard and shrunk considerably. Next day we marched thirteen miles over
ice whose blue uneven surface was as smooth as glass, making it very
hard work for the men, who were sorely put to it to maintain their
footing. They worked splendidly, trudging merrily along, making light of
the heavy loads and the treacherous ice, thinking only of performing a
good day's work, and of advancing the depôt as far north as possible.

On the third day, being unable to round a point of land owing to several
lanes of water, we were obliged to unload the sledges and carry the
things piecemeal across a neck of land about two miles in width and a
hundred feet above the level of the sea. On the same evening snow began
to fall, and from that time it fell incessantly until our return to the
ship, increasing in depth day by day. This, combined with the softness
of the snow as it fell, seriously impeded our advance, and we were
frequently obliged to halt our sledges whilst the men were employed
clearing a road with the shovels. So impervious was the air, owing to
the heavy fall of snow, that it was only occasionally that we were able
to obtain glimpses of the land as we journeyed onwards, rendering it
most difficult to make out its conformation, or even the direction in
which the coast line trended.

From the unaccustomed work of dragging, the shoulders of the men began
to evince symptoms of rawness, although they constantly shifted their
drag belts from one shoulder to the other. In spite of these little
drawbacks, and the dull overcast weather that generally prevailed, the
spirits of the men never flagged, and every night the labour of the day
would be forgotten, and singing and laughter would be the only sounds
heard issuing from our little camp, long after we had comfortably
settled ourselves in our sleeping bags.

It was amusing to listen to the quaint remarks and witty conversation of
the men, as, reclining in their bags and smoking their pipes, they
would, regardless of the generally dreaded presence of the commander,
broach lower deck topics, and freely discuss and criticize them. I was
much surprised at the extensive Arctic knowledge which they possessed,
showing that they had read largely on this subject, and were anxious to
learn yet more.

I must own that the subject of eating and drinking monopolized a very
large share of the conversation; nor did they only occupy our minds
whilst awake, for they frequently formed the subject of our dreams. On
one occasion when I aroused the men in the morning one of them said,
"Oh! I am sorry you called me so soon, sir, for I was dreaming that I
was eating plum pudding, and if you had let me finish it would have been
as good as a breakfast to me!" Gales of wind were, of course, serious
impediments to our advance, and were of not unfrequent occurrence. They
invariably necessitated a halt, as, irrespective of the cold wind being
productive of frost-bites, it was almost impossible to make way through
the blinding snow-drift, which did not admit of anything being seen even
at the distance of a yard or two!

On the 4th of October, half our provisions being consumed, and there
being the prospect of very heavy travelling before us on our homeward
journey, it was decided to return. The depôt was therefore established,
on the brow of a ridge just above our encampment. It consisted of 870
lbs. of pemmican and 240 lbs. of bacon. May and myself pushed on, with
the object of reaching Cape Joseph Henry; but the weather was too thick
to obtain any view, and, for the same reason, it was impossible to
ascertain the trend of the coast or the nature of the travelling to the
northward. The floes seemed to be composed of very heavy ice, and the
hummocks were piled up to a great height along the coast, especially off
any projecting points of land. Lieutenant Aldrich had, however, ascended
a hill some two thousand feet in height, and was fortunate in having a
fine clear day. From Cape Joseph Henry the land, he saw, trended away to
the westward, but there was no indication of anything but the
impenetrable polar pack to the north. We reached a latitude of about 82°
50´ N. before turning our steps homewards.

On the return journey the dragging became infinitely more irksome and
laborious. The snow had accumulated to such a depth as to render some of
the ravines and promontories almost impassable, being above the men's
knees nearly all the time. On one occasion we were compelled to take our
sledges up a range of hills two hundred and fifty feet above the level
of the sea, in order to pass a precipitous cliff, off which was a stream
of water, and then to lower them down a steep incline on the opposite
side. To add to our difficulties, a sudden fall of temperature produced
many severe frost-bites, principally on the feet and toes. Circulation
was always restored as speedily as possible by the application of the
warm hand, and the injured part was then dressed with glycerine ointment
and lint.

The hills, over which we were obliged to take our sledges, subsequently
went by the name of the "Frost-bite Range," in consequence of the many
casualties sustained during the time we were on them.

On the 9th the temperature was 15° below zero, and the boots, stockings,
and foot wrappers were frozen to the men's feet. On coming down the
hills the sledges had literally to be lowered to the ice-foot from a
height of two hundred and fifty feet, at a very steep angle. Thence it
was necessary to follow the shore, where enormous hummocks of ice were
piled up, having huge cracks and fissures, into which we sunk to our
necks in snow. In crossing some sludgy ice between the hummocks, on the
11th, Lieutenant May unfortunately went through, and was so severely
frost-bitten that he eventually had to suffer amputation of one of his
great toes.

The sun set at about one in the afternoon. A glorious sight: the colours
of the sunrise and sunset seeming to be blended together. This was on
Tuesday, and at breakfast on the following Friday all the provisions
would be expended. The 13th was the last day of the sun's appearance.

On the 14th the temperature was down to 25° below zero, and the
travelling very heavy; but our sufferings were nearly over. At seven we
sighted the ship, and hoisted our sledge standards. All the officers and
ship's company came out to meet and help us, and by 8.50 P.M. we were on
board.

Some of the frost-bites were so severe as to render amputation
necessary. This arose from the difficulty of finding out the injury in
time. A frost-bite steals upon one like a thief in the night, and before
the victim is aware it often happens that mortification has set in. No
less than half the party were placed on the sick list from being more or
less severely frost-bitten.

It was a very great relief and comfort to us to be again on board, and
extremely gratifying to receive such a welcome as that extended to us by
our messmates. They were already feeling a little anxious at our
prolonged absence, knowing that we were only provisioned for twenty
days, and fearing that our return journey would be greatly delayed by
the late excessive fall of snow.

How comfortable the ward-room looked, with the lamps burning brightly, a
cheerful fire blazing in the stove, and, what delighted us almost still
more, a clean white cloth spread upon the table, and on it a sumptuous
repast, made doubly inviting by a couple of decanters of madeira and
port! These little comforts and luxuries, though they may appear to
casual readers unimportant and insignificant, are thoroughly enjoyed and
appreciated by wearied and foot-sore travellers who have been strangers
to light, comfort, and a good meal, though only for three short weeks.
The pleasure of a warm bath and the enjoyment of brushing one's hair are
beyond all description! We were all a little thinner when we returned;
but, with the exception of the frost-bites, none the worse for our
expedition.

So far as the results were concerned we were quite satisfied,
considering them perfectly successful.

We had established a depôt of provisions some forty miles to the
northward of the ship, which would very materially assist the sledging
campaign of the ensuing spring. A large amount of thorough practical
experience had been gained, which we hoped would bear good fruit in the
coming year. And we had succeeded in reaching and passing the highest
latitude attained, to the northward of Spitzbergen, by that
distinguished Arctic navigator, Sir Edward Parry, forty-eight years
before, during his memorable journey over the frozen sea towards the
North Pole.

These were the most important results gained by the autumn sledging.

The disappearance of the sun before our return necessarily prevented a
more protracted exploration being made. As it was we only had sufficient
light during midday for a very few hours' work.

Perhaps, as it was our first experience in sledging, it was as well we
were not able to remain absent for a greater length of time. As an
instance of the manner in which the different articles increased in
weight during the autumn travelling, we found on our return to the ship
that the tent which had previously weighed 32 lbs. had increased to 55
lbs., the coverlet from 21 lbs. to 48 lbs., the lower robe from 18 lbs.
to 40 lbs., the floor-cloth from 11 lbs. to 29 lbs., and everything else
in proportion! This increase is due to the absorption of all moisture,
which instantly freezes. In the spring, although the temperature is far
lower, this moisture, even when frozen, is extracted by exposure to the
sun. In the autumn this is impossible, as the sun has disappeared.

[Illustration: WINTER QUARTERS, H.M.S. "ALERT."]




CHAPTER XIII.

WINTER QUARTERS.


  "Let winter come! let polar spirits sweep
   The dark'ning world and tempest-troubled deep.
   Though boundless snows the withered heath deform,
   And the dim sun _ne'er_ wanders through the storm,
   Yet shall the smile of social love repay
   With mental light the melancholy day."

     CAMPBELL.

The sledge travellers having all returned, the necessary preparations
for passing the winter were immediately taken in hand.

Notwithstanding the loss of the sun, which took its final departure on
the 11th of October, we had for many days sufficient light, during five
or six hours of the day, to enable us to carry out the manifold duties
connected with the preparations for a winter in the Arctic Regions.

Although the ship was completely frozen in, and the ice in which she was
imprisoned was increasing in thickness day by day, additional
precautions for her safety were taken by burying a couple of the largest
anchors on shore, and freezing them into their holes by pouring water
over them; to these were attached the chain cables. These we felt would
be a perfect security for us against any off-shore gale.

Provisions in large quantities were landed as a precaution, in case any
unforeseen event should, during the winter, cause the destruction of our
ship, and so at one fell swoop deprive us both of home and supplies. Out
of the casks and cases so landed a spacious house was constructed,
capable, if necessary, of affording accommodation to our entire party.
This house, which went by the name of "Markham Hall," was used as a
receptacle for sails, rope, sledge gear, and all articles that could not
be conveniently stowed under hatches on board. Its dimensions were
forty-nine feet long, by twelve feet wide, and ten feet high. The
mainsail was used to roof it over. It was altogether a very grand
edifice, and we were, and I think with some reason, very proud at the
result of our architectural skill.

The building mania seemed to be very prevalent amongst the officers, the
majority of whom employed themselves in constructing snow-houses for
various purposes near the ship. One officer went so far as to commence a
_colonnade_, reaching from the shore to the ship, the pillars to be made
of frozen blocks of snow, but the undertaking was of too gigantic a
nature to be carried out with any hope of success, and was abandoned
after a few days' work.

A wooden observatory, brought out from England for the express purpose,
was set up for the transit instrument, and this with a house adjoining,
in which was placed the alt-azimuth instrument, being the head-quarters
of our astronomical observers, Parr and May, went by the name of
"Greenwich."

[Illustration: DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATING THE MAGNETIC OBSERVATORY AT "KEW."

EXPLANATION OF PLAN.

  A   The Unifilar House.
  B   The Barrow Dip Circle House.
  C   The Declinometer House.
  DD  Passage connecting A and B, 37½ ft. in length.
  EEE The main passage, 120 ft. long.
  F   Passage leading to Declinometer House, 44 ft. from entrance.
  G   The main, and only, entrance. Distant from the _Alert_ 504 ft.
      All houses and passages were "sub-glacial."]

Snow-houses were constructed on shore for the several magnetic
instruments, and these latter were securely fixed by being firmly frozen
on snow pedestals. The three houses in which the instruments were
placed were connected, one with the other, by sub-glacial passages, one
being no less than a hundred and twenty feet in length. The whole
establishment, which was most complete and reflected great credit on
its architect, was called "Kew." Giffard and myself were the two
officers entrusted with the charge of the magnetic observations, and
many a cold and comfortless hour had we to spend, in our endeavours to
add to the slight knowledge we possess in this interesting branch of
science.

Several other snow-houses were built for various purposes. One was for
the reception of our powder, as it is most important that such a
dangerous and combustible article should be removed from the ship, where
of necessity so many fires have to be kept up. The place in which the
powder was stored was called "Woolwich." Others were constructed in
which were deposited all our salt beef for present use, and these
buildings, of course, went by the name of "Deptford," after our great
naval victualling depôt in England.

Altogether the neighbourhood of our winter quarters had the appearance
of a young thriving settlement rapidly springing into maturity,
rendering what would otherwise have been a barren and desolate scene,
one of cheerful life and activity.

The salt beef, which was exceptionally tough and salt, more so indeed
than the ordinary salt "junk" used in the navy, was kept in a
snow-house; because we found, by experiment, that it was rendered more
palatable by so doing. In all probability the process of congelation
tended to extract, or precipitate, a very large portion of the saline
matter with which it was impregnated, and thus deprived it, to some
extent, of its hardness and saltness.

By the 26th of October the ship was completely "housed" in by a set of
awnings, extending from the after part of the top-gallant forecastle to
the mizzen-mast. This "housing" was made of a material called tilt
cloth, similar to that used to cover waggons in England. It was spread
on spars lashed between the masts, having curtains on each side so
fitted that they could readily and easily be triced up when required for
purposes of ventilation. Hanging lamps were suspended from the spars
over the centre of the deck, which were kept alight night and day. The
funnel, which was provided with a hinge, was lowered down, and formed a
famous and convenient stow-hole for rope. The number of coils that were
deposited in it was truly marvellous.

[Illustration: FLAG-STAFF POINT.]

Two gangways were cut in the ship's side: the one on the port side being
used as the general one for entrance and exit; the one on the starboard
for carrying out all slops and dirt to a large dirt-heap established
between the hummocks, some hundred yards from the ship. A smaller
dirt-heap was temporarily used nearer the ship, the accumulations being
removed to the larger one once or twice a week.

Although, as a rule, the snow was not well adapted for building purposes
on account of its consistency, we were able to supply ourselves with
blocks from certain places where the snow had drifted in large
quantities and hardened by pressure.

A snow wall, constructed from solid blocks obtained from these quarries,
was formed round the ship at about six feet distance, and at the height
of about four feet. When this was completed the space between the ship's
side and this wall was filled in with snow, reaching as high as the fore
and main channels, forming a perfectly solid and impervious embankment
that would effectually aid in preserving the warmth of the ship. The
upper deck was cleared of all superfluous articles, and was covered with
snow about twelve inches deep. A layer of gravel and ashes was strewn
over the surface; but I am not sure that we benefited much by this
measure, for it was rendered so slippery by being frozen that it was by
no means an easy matter to walk on it.

All skylights and hatchways were carefully covered up, two only of the
latter being kept open as a means of ingress and egress. These were so
constructed with porches and double doors as to prevent the admission of
the outside air. The doors, being fitted with weights, were made
self-shutting, so that the closing of one door was insured before the
opening of the other. Snow walls were also built up round the porches,
and in fact round the hatchways and skylights not in use, so as to
render them all the more impervious to the cold air.

Round the funnel of the galley fire there was a large space, inclosed by
a wall of snow, in which was deposited every morning a supply of ice or
frozen snow, to be converted into water sufficient to last twenty-four
hours. The ice for this purpose was procured from a large floe about one
hundred and fifty yards from the ship, which in all probability was
formed by the thawing and subsequent re-freezing of the snow on its
surface. When it was difficult to find work for the men to do outside
the ship during the winter, they were employed in conveying this ice to
a large depôt that was formed close to the vessel, protected from the
Eskimo dogs by a snow wall, from which during gales of wind or other bad
weather we were able to supply ourselves.

Our boats were all hauled up in a safe position on shore. Sails were
left bent, but securely furled and covered. Ropes that were not unrove
were carefully hauled taut, so as to prevent our being kept awake during
a gale of wind by an uninterrupted "devil's tattoo"--that is, the
continual flapping of a rope against a spar, which produces a very
aggravating and monotonous sound.

Former expeditions were supplied with Sylvester's warming apparatus,
which, by means of pipes leading along the whole length of the ship,
warmed the "between decks" with hot air. The only means for heating the
vessel at our disposal were by stoves. These were placed in various
parts of the ship, and put under the charge of men who were
periodically selected for this service. Stringent regulations were
issued regarding the economical consumption of fuel, and also to guard
against all accidents from fire.

As it is necessary in all ships wintering in the Arctic Regions to
devote a certain place to the washing and drying of clothes in which a
high temperature can be constantly kept, we appointed for this purpose a
compartment on the fore part of the lower deck, commonly called the
fore-peak. The men had certain days during the week allotted to them for
the use of this place, and it was found that clothes washed and hung up
one afternoon would be invariably dry on the following morning.

The vapour arising in this room did not reach the deck on which the men
lived, but was conveyed through a trap hatch leading into the fore-peak
to a large space under the top-gallant forecastle, inclosed by a snow
wall and made its exit through an up-take formed of a piece of
funnelling. The compartment was heated by a stove, the fire in which was
kept burning night and day.

The very difficult question of ventilation below was carefully
considered. It is one of the most important and serious matters that can
come under the consideration of the commander of an Arctic expedition.
Nothing is so essential to the preservation of health as the pure and
free circulation of air on the living deck.

In this respect we were not so well off as our predecessors, for they,
being supplied with the Sylvester heating apparatus, were able to admit
a more constant current of air, and thus keep their habitable deck in a
better state and more free from condensation than ours. We found it a
very difficult matter to prevent in the slightest degree the
accumulation of moisture on the beams overhead, caused by the
condensation formed by the number of people living on the deck, and by
the vapour arising from the galley fire. Several up-takes and down-takes
were fitted in holes cut through the upper deck in our attempts to
remedy this serious defect, but as a rule they had little effect in
counteracting it. Men were incessantly employed during the winter in
wiping the moisture off the beams with cloths. If the hatchway doors
were kept open, even for a short time, this moisture was at once
converted into ice, which, of course, thawed and dripped immediately as
the temperature was raised. This drip was a constant source of annoyance
to us during the whole winter, and it was one to which we had, in part,
to submit.

Whilst all these necessary preparations for the safety and warmth of the
ship were being carried out, the comforts of those who were about to
brave the rigours of an Arctic winter were not forgotten. Warm garments
were issued, consisting principally of a complete suit of seal-skins and
warm woollen guernseys. It must not be supposed that our seal-skins were
of the same material as those soft fur jackets so much in vogue with the
fair ones at home. Ours were obtained from the ordinary Greenland seals,
whose skins are covered with coarse bristly hairs. They were,
nevertheless, quite as warm, and were indeed our favourite articles of
clothing after the unpleasant aroma, which seems inseparable from
clothing of this description, had worn off, or until we had become so
accustomed to it as to fail to notice it!

Carpet boots, or moccasins made of moose-skin, were worn on the feet.
The former were furnished with tops, made of duffel, reaching as high as
the knees, and with cork soles over an inch thick. With any temperature
below zero leather boots and shoes must be discontinued, as they freeze
so hard that the material loses its flexibility, and renders the foot in
consequence more liable to frost-bite. Moccasins, worn over a couple of
pairs of blanket wrappers, and a pair of thick woollen stockings
reaching above the knee, are undoubtedly the most comfortable foot-gear,
and the best adapted for low temperatures. Blanket wrappers are, as
their name indicates, strips of blanket, generally about sixteen inches
square, worn folded round the feet in lieu of socks and stockings, than
which they are infinitely warmer.

As a rule, officers and men were dressed alike. Occasionally some of the
former would make their appearance in long fur coats with hoods that
they had obtained from the Hudson's Bay Company's store and other places
in London, but the majority adhered to the clothing supplied to them by
Government.

A special winter routine was made out, and commenced shortly after the
return of the sledge parties. It was strictly adhered to through the
long winter night that ensued.

I must not omit to mention the duty of keeping open the "fire hole"--a
very necessary and important precaution, that must be taken, in order to
be able to obtain a supply of water in case of fire breaking out on
board. As a rule, in all ships that have wintered in the Arctic Regions,
the water has frozen below the suction valves of the pumps, thus
rendering them totally useless. In order, therefore, to obtain water, a
hole was invariably cut through the ice near the ship, which was
generally placed in charge of the quarter-master of the watch, whose
duty it was from time to time to clear off the young ice from its
surface, so that at any moment water might be obtained in buckets. In
the "Alert," in consequence of our valves being much lower, our pumps
were never incapacitated from this cause; still they were liable to be
rendered useless by the water in the pipes becoming frozen. We therefore
always kept our fire-hole in working order. It was close to the bow of
the vessel, and was inclosed by a snow hut, so as to guard against the
danger of anybody falling in whilst walking about in the dark. By fixing
a tide-pole in the hole, and by devising a self-registering apparatus
with a line leading from the tide-pole to the forecastle of the "Alert,"
we were able to obtain a very complete and valuable series of tidal
observations. From having the registering-gauge on board the ship, these
observations were continued uninterruptedly, and were unaffected by
gales of wind or bad weather, that would otherwise have prevented any
one from going outside the vessel in order to note them.

Thermometric observations were, as may be imagined, very carefully
attended to, and the temperatures both inside and outside the ship duly
registered. Maximum and minimum thermometers, by which the greatest heat
and the greatest cold for each consecutive twenty-four hours were
recorded, were established in different places, and were noted every day
at noon by an officer especially appointed for that duty.

Each compartment in the ship was supplied with one of these
thermometers, and on the living deck the temperatures at three different
heights--namely, at the deck, about half-way up, and at the beams--were
daily registered. For the outside air one of the ice-saw triangles was
erected on the floe, sufficiently distant from the ship to neutralize
any influence that might be derived from her presence, and on this, at
the height of about twelve feet, were placed several thermometers. In
addition to these, there were other thermometers on the hill about a
quarter of a mile from the ship, and about one hundred yards above the
level of the sea, so that we were able to obtain a correct mean of the
true temperature of the air. We were also able to ascertain the
temperature of the snow, and the ground at different depths; and also,
by means of solar radiation thermometers, we succeeded, on the return of
the sun, in getting the temperature due to its rays at various
altitudes.




CHAPTER XIV.

THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE.


  "Haste thee, Nymph, and bring with thee
   Jest and youthful jollity,
   Quips, and cranks, and wanton wiles,
   Nods, and becks, and wreathed smiles,
   Sport that wrinkled Care derides,
   And Laughter holding both his sides."

     MILTON.

Sir Edward Parry, during his first and subsequent winters in the Arctic
Regions, fully recognized the importance of not only exercising and
improving the minds of those under his command, during the long period
of enforced inaction, but also of amusing them, and letting them feel
that they also were assisting in the amusement of their shipmates. To do
this he instituted an evening school on the lower deck, the officers
acting as teachers; and he established periodicals, dramatic and other
entertainments, in which he himself joined and took a conspicuous part.

His wise example has been generally followed by the different
expeditions that subsequently wintered in the Arctic Regions.

It is, in fact, very necessary to exercise both the physical and mental
powers of the men during the dark months, for when once the ship has
been safely established in winter quarters little work remains to be
done. The officers are constantly employed in taking and working up
observations in various branches of science; but the seaman has little
to do but reflect on, and possibly brood over, his situation. It is,
therefore, absolutely essential that some means should be devised to
drive from him all unpleasant thoughts, and to make him feel that it is
in his power to relieve the tedium of what would otherwise be a long and
monotonous winter.

Each ship had been provided, before leaving England, with a
printing-press, and an officer and seaman[1] had been instructed in its
use.

As soon as it was set up and in working order, the following prospectus
was issued by the "firm."


  "THE ARCTIC PRINTING OFFICE.

  "Messrs. Giffard and Symons beg to inform the public that they have
  obtained--at an immense cost and with infinite trouble--possession of
  the extensive premises, lately occupied by Mr. Clements Markham,
  situated in Trap Lane, within half a minute's walk of the foremost
  Quarter Deck Ladder, and easily accessible to all parts of the city.

  "They have fitted up their new establishment--_regardless of
  expense_--with all the _latest inventions_ and _newest machinery_, to
  enable them to carry on the noble art of printing in a style and with
  a rapidity hitherto quite unattainable.

  "They therefore expect from the public that support and assistance
  which it always gives to the _truly deserving_.

  "Charges moderate. No credit given. All work required to be executed
  to be paid for in advance.

  "N.B. Everything undertaken promptly and correctly executed.

    "H.M.S. 'Alert,'

      "July 28, 1875."


The "cost" and "trouble" alluded to in this production, that were
expended in obtaining a convenient place in which to carry out the
"noble art of printing," were caused by the fact that our photographers
were equally anxious, with our printers, to possess themselves of the
small cabin lately occupied by my cousin, and which is so
grandiloquently alluded to as "extensive premises." In fact, for some
little time it was a very sore and vexed question between those two
celebrated and energetic firms. Trap Lane was so called in consequence
of the after-hold being immediately outside the door of the cabin; and
it occasionally served as a very disagreeable kind of man-trap when,
through inadvertence, the hatch had not been replaced. As this part of
the ship was, during the early part of her commission, in total
darkness, owing to the piles of stores that were stowed in every
available corner, it is no wonder that unsuspecting individuals should
occasionally have fallen into the trap!

Our printing-press was, it is almost needless to say, of great use to us
during the winter; for, although it never printed very much for the
public service, it was constantly called into requisition for the
purpose of striking off programmes for our dramatic and other
entertainments; and on such important events as birthdays and
Christmas-day we indulged in the extravagance of printed bills of fare.
On the whole the printing establishment on board the "Alert" tended very
materially to beguile the tedium of our long nights, and must therefore
be regarded as a decided success.

Our school was opened on the 1st of November; from which date, until the
reappearance of the sun, the attendance was regular and constant. It was
composed of nearly the whole ship's company, and was divided into
classes under the direct superintendence of the officers. Reading,
writing, history, arithmetic, and navigation were the principal
subjects in which the pupils were instructed.

The school was held on the lower deck between eight and nine o'clock in
the evening, the classes occupying the different mess-tables. Only two
men out of the entire ship's company were unable to read and write, and
these two men were placed in a class with two others, who were unable to
read and write English.[2] This class was presided over by the doctor,
who kindly volunteered to devote himself to the instruction of the
"cripples," as they were facetiously called.

As an illustration of the improvement which has taken place in the
education of the men belonging to the Royal Navy during the last
half-century, it may be mentioned that, whereas in Parry's time it was
quite the exception to find a man that could read or write, with us the
exception was entirely the other way, only two men out of fifty-five
being ignorant of those accomplishments.

Never were seen such painstaking and willing scholars as our men showed
themselves to be. It is impossible to conceive a more orderly or
well-conducted school, and it was a pleasure to the masters to devote
their time to classes that evinced such an earnest desire of acquiring
knowledge as did those on board the "Alert."

Here might be observed a staid old seaman, whose great brawny hand
appeared more suited to grasp the marline-spike than the pen, vainly
endeavouring, with his elbows squared, his weather-beaten face close
down over his work, and his tongue thrust out, to arrive at some
satisfactory result in a simple addition sum. As a contrast to this, at
the opposite table might be seen a smart young sailor, who had distanced
all his competitors in arithmetic, asking abstruse questions in
mensuration of such a nature as to make even his tutor feel
uncomfortable!

After the classes were dismissed, the men enjoyed an uninterrupted
evening to themselves. Games of various descriptions, such as chess,
bagatelle, draughts, and cribbage, had been purchased for their
amusement before leaving England, and were in constant requisition
during the winter. A large space on the starboard side of the deck,
abaft the living deck, was allotted to the smokers, and here were held
our dramatic and weekly entertainments on Thursdays. On Sundays Divine
service was performed in the same place.

Books were also a source of great amusement and interest to many of the
men who were studiously inclined, as the well-thumbed volumes in our
library soon testified. Several men wrote regular journals, which were
even kept up by a few whilst they were sledging. Amongst the officers,
chess, backgammon, and a rubber in the captain's cabin, formed the chief
amusements. Although gambling is discountenanced (or ought to be) on
board every well-regulated man of war, we so far forgot ourselves as to
indulge largely in this vice. Seldom was a game played without a stake
on the result! The stakes, too, were exorbitant, frequently as much as
one lucifer match per game! It must be remembered that matches were very
scarce and precious articles with us, and it was therefore a very high
and valuable stake. On one occasion, one of my messmates was so rash as
to wager a tallow-candle on the result of a game; but this was an offer
of such magnitude that no one was sufficiently brave or sporting to
accept it.

Among the many valuable gifts showered upon us by kind and generous
friends at home was an excellent piano, and fortunately amongst the
officers there was a very talented musician, to whose good nature and
willing efforts to please must be attributed many a pleasant hour, when
our hearts were warmed by well-known airs bringing back happy home
memories.

Thursday evenings were always devoted to dramatic entertainments,
magic-lantern exhibitions, instructive lectures, reading, and music both
vocal and instrumental. These entertainments were kept up with the same
spirit, and without a break, during the whole winter. They went by the
name of our "Thursday Pops," and afforded much pleasure and amusement.
They were announced to the general Arctic public by the following
printed notice, which was widely circulated.


  H.M.S. "ALERT."

  THURSDAY POPULAR ENTERTAINMENTS.

  On Thursday, the 11th of November, 1875, will commence a series of
  popular entertainments, that will consist of lectures, readings,
  recitations, and music, both vocal and instrumental, etc. No trouble
  or expense have been spared in obtaining the services of a great
  number of the most talented men of the day. The entertainment will be
  given in the airy and commodious hall situated in Funnel Row.

  PROGRAMME:

  _Astronomical Lecture_ (with discussion)          Capt. NARES.
  _Song_     "I knew that I was dreaming"              Mr. GOOD.
  _Song_     "Watercresses"                         Mr. SHIRLEY.
  _Reading_  "The Jumping Frog"                        Dr. MOSS.
  _Song_     "An Englishman am I"                      Mr. CANE.
  _Song_     "Broken down"                           Mr. BRYANT.
  _Glee_     "The Wreath"   Messrs. ALDRICH, PULLEN, and RAWSON.
  _Song_     "The White Squall"                     Mr. MASKELL.

  God save the Queen.

  No encores. Doors open at 7.30. Sledges may be ordered at 9 o'clock

  Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.


This was the first notification issued regarding our weekly
entertainments, and, coming out a day or two before the performance, it
naturally caused considerable excitement and flutter amongst the Arctic
playgoing world!

Except on the evenings exclusively devoted to the legitimate drama,
these entertainments were always preceded by a lecture delivered by one
of the officers, on some interesting and at the same time instructive
subject, adapted to the knowledge and intelligence of the audience. A
list of the lectures so delivered cannot fail to be of interest.


  1. On astronomy                     Capt. Nares.
  2. A few words on magnetism         Lieut. Giffard.
  3. On geology                       Capt. Feilden.
  4. A few words on meteorology       Lieut. Aldrich.
  5. A few words on steam             Mr. Wootton.
  6. Mock moons under the microscope  Dr. Moss.
  7. On light                         Lieut. Parr.
  8. An historical lecture            Mr. White.
  9. A few words on astronomy         Com. Markham.
  10. Our food in the arctic regions  Dr. Colan.
  11. A few words on arctic plants    Rev. H. W. Pullen.
  12. On hydrostatics                 Lieut. May.
  13. Sledging experiences            Capt. Nares.


Nearly all the officers took part in these lectures, and I have not the
slightest doubt that all would have done so had there been any more
Thursdays to spare. They were eagerly listened to by the ship's
company, and afforded quite as much pleasure as the readings and songs
that followed, in the performance of which they all, with only one or
two exceptions, took part.

[Illustration: ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE--SCENE FROM "ALADDIN AND THE
WONDERFUL SCAMP."]

The first real dramatic entertainment came off on the following
Thursday. Our plan was for the men to act one piece and the officers
another, and this was found to work very well. But the rehearsals were a
difficulty, and we were frequently compelled to shut ourselves up in our
own cabins in order to secure the necessary quiet and privacy to enable
us to become perfect in our different parts.

The costumes were, of course, a subject of much discussion and deep
interest. The making up of dresses, and the manufacture of wigs from
musk-ox skins and oakum, sorely taxed our ingenuity and employed minds
and fingers that had hitherto been strangers to such occupations. Many
were the needles broken, and many were the fingers pricked, before our
ideal costumes were realized. Eiderdown quilts had to be converted into
the robes of a lovely oriental princess; old uniform coats were
beautified with spangles and tinsel, and appeared as the fashionable
habiliments of a dandy of the seventeenth century; whilst a wicked
magician, of the Hebrew persuasion, appeared in a coat of unmistakeable
clerical cut.

Egerton was an indefatigable stage manager, and the scenic arrangements
under the direction of Moss, who was also the artist, could not be
excelled. Aldrich at the piano (as our orchestra) was a host in himself,
adding materially to the success of the entertainments. In fact,
officers and men vied with each other in their endeavours to promote
amusement and hilarity, and if their histrionic abilities were not of
the highest order, the zeal and energy of the actors fully compensated
for this deficiency.

We enjoyed a rare freedom from harsh ill-natured critics. These pests do
not venture across the Arctic Circle. All who visited the Royal Arctic
Theatre (re-opened after a lapse of twenty-one years) came with a firm
resolve to please or be pleased. Acting upon this determination, our
entertainments were bound to be successful. The following prologue,
composed for the occasion by Pullen, was spoken at the opening of our
theatre, on Thursday, the 18th of November, 1875.

   "Kind friends, with kindly greetings met to-day,
  We bid you welcome to our opening play:
  You, whose indulgent smile forbids the fear
  Of scornful wit or captious critic here.
  To-day we welcome you, and not to-night,
  For all is noon with us--all summer bright;
  And though the southern sun has ceased to pour
  His glittering rays upon our ice-bound shore--
  Has ceased awhile to touch with drops of gold
  The crystal corners of our hummocks bold;
  We bear a warm soft light that never fades--
  A lustrous light amid these Greenland shades;
  All trustful of each other's love, we learn
  With steady flame our lamp of Hope to burn;
  And suns may set, and twilights disappear--
  They shall not rob us of our Christmas cheer;
  Nor blinding drift, nor frozen wave, shall chill
  Our laughter glad--for laugh, brave boys, we will;
  Kindling yet once again the genial glow
  Of happy English homes on Arctic floe.

   "Yet once again; for none would here forget
  We are but sons of fathers living yet;
  In work and play alike, we but renew
  The deeds of men who taught us what to do.
  And though, more favoured than the rest, we soar
  To loftier flights than theirs who went before;
  Though ours the boast, by skilful guidance led,
  In virgin climes our shifting scene to spread;
  We love to read on history's faithful page,
  Of ancient triumphs on our Northern stage,
  And boldly for our brave forerunners claim
  An Arctic 'cast' already known to fame.

   "Now let the tell-tale curtain rise, and say
  What we have done to while your hours away.
  Such as we have, we bring you of our best,
  And to your kind forbearance leave the rest.
  One only grief is ours, and you shall share
  With us the burden of that gentle care.
  One cherished form we miss--one touch alone--
  One glance of love--one tender, thrilling tone.
  Ah! in the sweet homes of our native isle
  The dear ones move, and minister, and smile.
  We would not wish them here, but this we know,
  Their thoughts are with us every step we go:
  Their life sets northward o'er the cold, grey sea:
  They live in wondering what our life may be;
  And heart draws near to heart, and soul to soul,
  Till each has found its true magnetic pole.

   "God bless and keep them in His mighty hand--
  Our wives and sweethearts, and the dear old land!"

The prologue was warmly applauded. At its conclusion the curtain rose,
and the following programme, showing the plays that were acted and the
cast of characters, was proceeded with.


  THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE

  Will be re-opened on Thursday next, the 18th instant, by the powerful
  dramatic company of

  HYPERBOREANS!

  Under the distinguished patronage of Capt. Nares, the members of the
  Arctic Exploring Expedition, and all the nobility and gentry of the
  neighbourhood.

  The world-wide reputation of this company is quite unrivalled. The
  manager has spared neither trouble nor expense in forming this
  company, and has selected none but the very best _artistes_--the
  ladies being from England--who, having numerous other engagements, can
  remain for a short time only.

  The scenic arrangements, under the control and manipulation of that
  celebrated artist, Professor Moss, _must_ be acknowledged to be
  unparalleled in the experience of ages and of the highest order.

  The orchestra, under the management of Signore Aldrichi (lately from
  Milan) cannot fail to be appreciated by the audience.

  At 7.30 will commence the celebrated nautical farce


  THE CHOPS OF THE CHANNEL.

  CHARACTERS:

  Leander Hellespont    Mr. Stuckberry.
  Mr. Counter Balance   Mr. Woolley.
  Gratings (Steward)    Mr. Burroughs.
  Mrs. Hellespont       Mdlle. Francombi.
  Mrs. Veneer           Mdme. Maskelli.

  Time                 The present day.
  Scene                Saloon of a Boulogne steamer.

  Interval of ten minutes.

  During the interval the renowned vocalist, Mr. Stone, will sing THE
  IRISH BARBER.

  After which will be performed the screaming tragico-comico burlesque
  entitled


  VILIKINS AND HIS DINAH.

  CHARACTERS:

  Master Grumbleton Gruffin, a rich (soap) merchant of London, the
    original parient                                     Com. Markham.

  Baron Boski Bumble, ancestor of the celebrated beadle, the original
    lovier so gallant and gay                             Mr. Egerton.

  William Wilkins, socially and convivially known as Vilikins, a young
    apprentice, in desperate love with                     Mr. Rawson.

  Dinah Gruffin, the sole feminine offspring of the above-mentioned
    soap-merchant, in love with the aforesaid Vilikins   Mdlle. Blanc.

  Scene 1    Lawn of Gruffin's house.
  Scene 2    Interior of Gruffin's house.
  Scene 3    Lawn of Gruffin's house.

  God save the Queen.


This, the first appearance of the "Hyperboreans," was eminently
successful, and elicited both laughter and applause from our very
appreciative and demonstrative audience. Mademoiselle Blanc (Mr. White)
made a fascinating little Dinah of six feet high, dressed in a Dolly
Varden costume, whilst the other ladies were all that could be desired,
and looked charming in their gorgeous silk and muslin dresses.

In this respect we had a decided advantage over our consort, the
"Discovery;" for her space on board being somewhat limited, the building
of an ice theatre on the floe became necessary. Here, though the
building was spacious and elegant, the temperature was rarely above
zero! The ladies were therefore unable to indulge in low dresses, and a
close observer might have detected underclothing composed of seal-skins
beneath their otherwise gay and brilliant costumes.

Occasionally, as the two following bills will show, we were agreeably
surprised by the announcement of an entire change of programme.


  H.M.S. "ALERT."

  THURSDAY POPS.

  December 16th, 1875.

  Great attraction! The latest novelty of the season!!
  The Wizard of the North!!! [finger symbol] For one night only!!!!

  PROGRAMME:

  The entertainment will commence with
  A FEW WORDS ON STEAM . . Mr. Wootton.
  After which the only and veritable

  WIZARD OF THE NORTH,

  _en route_ to his hyperborean domicile,

  will exhibit and expound some of his original and inimitable illusions
  and feats of prestidigitation, consisting of the following wonderful
  and startling tricks:--

  The vanishing egg.
  The magic die.
  The mysterious sixpence.
  The magic shawl.
  A startling surgical operation.
  The marvellous watch trick.
  Tricks with cards.
  The magic bag trick.
  The wonderful generating hat.
  The astounding prestidigitorial metamorphosis, performed with
  an egg and silk handkerchief.
  The inexhaustible bottle.
  Our very able and renowned pianist, Lieut. Aldrich, will, as usual,
  preside at the orchestra.
  To commence at 7.30 precisely.

  God save the Queen.

  Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.


  THURSDAY POPS.

  H.M.S. "ALERT."

  January 20th, 1876.

  GRAND PHANTASMAGORIAL EXHIBITION
    and
  MUSICAL ENTERTAINMENT.

  To commence with
  A FEW WORDS ON ASTRONOMY, by Com. Markham,
  Illustrated by the aid of a magic lantern.
  To be followed by a series of

  DISSOLVING VIEWS,

  Consisting of coloured representations of
  Remarkable places in England,
  Photographic sketches of foreign countries, etc.
  After which, the wonderful and startling adventures of

  SINDBAD THE SAILOR

  Will be related by the Rev. H. W. Pullen.
  In the next place Com. Markham will give a life-like and
  entertaining display of various specimens in

  NATURAL HISTORY;
    and
  Lieut. Aldrich will recite the true and touching
  TALE OF A TUB.

  To conclude with some highly amusing

  COMIC SCENES.

  To commence at 7.30 precisely.

  God save the Queen.

  Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.


These amusements may be considered light and frivolous, for men engaged
in such a serious undertaking as that upon which we were embarked; still
they all tended to one point--namely, the successful issue of the
enterprise. For they kept the minds of the men employed with pleasant
and agreeable thoughts, drove away all feelings of tedium and dulness,
and thus assisted largely in promoting the general well-being and
satisfactory sanitary condition of the expedition during the long night
of nearly one hundred and fifty days. They effectually banished
despondency, and assisted in making all hands cheerful, happy, and
contented.


FOOTNOTES:

  [1] Lieutenant Giffard and Robert Symons, A.B.

  [2] Petersen, the Danish interpreter, and the ship's cook Dominick a
    native of Gibraltar.




CHAPTER XV.

WINTER OCCUPATIONS AND AMUSEMENTS.


  "Darkness, Light's eldest brother, his birthright
   Claimed o'er this world, and to heaven chased light."

    DONNE.

         "Behold the wandering moon
  Riding near her highest noon,
  Like one that hath been led astray
  Through the heavens' wide pathless way;
  And oft as if her head she bowed,
  Stooping through a fleecy cloud."

    MILTON.

The sun, as has been mentioned in a previous chapter, took its final
departure on the 11th of October. From this date darkness gradually
settled upon us, reaching its greatest intensity on the 21st of
December. The type of a leading article in the _Times_ newspaper was
taken by us as a test of the darkness. This was last read in the open
air at midday on the 6th of November, and then only by a few with a
great deal of difficulty. Many unsuccessful attempts were made on
subsequent days. For a fortnight on either side of the 21st of December,
the difference in the light between noon and midnight, on a clear day,
was almost imperceptible, on a dull day it was quite inappreciable.
Occasionally, at other times, at midday a faint luminous band might be
observed along the southern horizon, but this was all the indication we
had of the difference between day and night.

We did not forget to celebrate on the 21st of October the Battle of
Trafalgar, remembering that our great naval hero, Nelson,[1] was himself
an old Arctic navigator. Our caterers provided us with a good dinner,
and we were regaled, as a great indulgence on such an auspicious
occasion, with an extra glass of wine! Two elaborate bills of fare were
placed on the table, on one of which was very creditably sketched the
"Alert" in winter quarters, and on the other was depicted the Battle of
Trafalgar, with the motto on each, "England expects every man _this_ day
to do his duty!" As there was a good dinner on the table, and the cold
weather had made us wondrous hungry, we all responded nobly to the call!

The 5th of November was another anniversary that could not pass
unnoticed. On that evening the effigy of Guy Fawkes, ingeniously stuffed
with squibs and seated on a cask well smeared with tar, was duly paraded
round the upper deck, accompanied by the drums and fifes playing the
"Rogue's March." It was then dragged, on a sledge, to the summit of a
neighbouring hummock, and there solemnly burnt in presence of the whole
ship's company. The band continued to play until the lips and fingers of
the fifers became so frost-bitten that they were compelled to desist. It
was a novel sight to see the dusky forms of the men, clad in seal-skins,
dancing round a blazing fire on the top of an enormous mass of ice,
whilst in the background was the ship with her masts and yards thickly
coated with snow, and all her ropes clearly defined in the bright
"bonfire light." A beautiful balloon, manufactured by Moss out of
various coloured tissue-papers, also formed a prominent feature in the
evening's display. Unfortunately, shortly after it was released, and
before it had ascended to any very great height, it caught fire and was
quickly consumed.

It must not be supposed, because I enumerate all the little incidents
connected with the amusements of the men, that other and more important
work was neglected. On the contrary, the officers were unceasingly
engaged during the winter in taking scientific observations in their
respective departments; each officer being awarded some special subject.
These included observations in astronomy, magnetism, electricity,
meteorology, tides, spectrum analysis, observations for the detection of
the polarization of light, chlorine, and specific gravity estimations.
The pursuit of these investigations was at times a matter of great
difficulty and extreme personal discomfort. It necessitated attendance
in, and consequent exposure to, a temperature many degrees below zero,
for several hours at a time. Under these circumstances it is no easy
matter to handle delicate instruments, the manipulation of which, even
in a temperate climate, requires the utmost care and caution. Made
extremely brittle by the intense cold, a fall to any of the small metal
movable parts of an instrument, such as the needles, would be fatal, yet
it is almost impossible to touch them with the uncovered hand. The
breath freezing on the arcs and verniers of the instruments during the
time of observation, and on the glasses of the telescopes and mirrors,
adds seriously to the difficulty; whilst the unequal contraction of
different metals during intensely cold weather renders some of the
instruments totally useless.

Paraselenæ, or mock moons, and auroras were of frequent occurrence, but
none of the latter were sufficiently bright to call for special mention.
These phenomena were always carefully examined, and the results
recorded. As a rule the auroras consisted of faint coruscations darting
across the heavens through the zenith, frequently in the form of an
irregular arch terminating at each end on the horizon, and generally
accompanied by various small luminous patches.

The lunations of the moon were periods that were always looked forward
to, and gladly welcomed, affording as they did, on clear bright days, a
marked contrast to the gruesome darkness that generally prevailed. These
clear days were not inappropriately termed "moony" ones, and were taken
advantage of to perform all work that was considered necessary outside
the ship.

  "Rising in clouded majesty, at length
   The moon unveiled her peerless light
   And o'er the dark her silver mantle threw."

Even on these bright silvery "moony" days it was unsafe to venture to
any distance from the ship, as the sudden "veiling of her peerless
light" by fog or clouds would produce total darkness, and so prevent the
unfortunate wanderer from finding his way back.

Great attention was paid to the important duty of seeing that a proper
amount of exercise was taken by every soul on board. Open-air exercise
was the more essential to health, because the air we breathed on board
was not as pure as might be desired. This was inevitable, and the evil
could only be partially counteracted by strict attention to the
enforcing of outdoor exercise. A walk was constructed along the floe
near the ship, for a distance of half a mile, marked at every two or
three yards by small heaps of empty preserved meat tins, placed there by
our industrious doctor. We were thus able to take our exercise along
this promenade even on the darkest day, and the number of times that
each individual walked up and down during the day was proudly recounted
at the dinner-table. The darkness prevented walks to any greater
distance for a considerable time. This then was our fashionable lounge,
and was called the "Ladies' Mile" after the drive of the same name in
Hyde Park.

Our greatest annoyance was undoubtedly caused by the incessant drip in
our cabins and elsewhere on board. So bad was it that all books had to
be removed from the shelves, or from any position where they were in
contact with the ship's side or the beams overhead. Especially over our
beds did we suffer, and could only make certain of a dry night's rest by
taking the precaution of nailing a blanket over the bed, or sloping one
as an awning! No means that we could devise, although many experiments
were tried on the living deck of the men as well as by the officers in
their cabins, lessened the condensation from which we suffered, and
which increased with any rise of temperature. One officer went so far as
to light, and keep burning for a whole day, no less than fifty-two
candles and one lamp in his cabin, hoping by these means to dry it
thoroughly; but although it answered the purpose for a day or two, at an
enormous cost, it was soon as bad as ever. During the time of his
_illumination_ he succeeded in raising the temperature of his cabin
from 40° to 75°! It is decidedly unpleasant, whilst writing, to have a
continual stream of water pouring down upon your head and upon your
paper; yet it is impossible to prevent this disagreeable drip.

One of my messmates, more fortunate than his brother officers, had
brought an umbrella with him, and this being spread over his chair
protected him from the wet, and thus enabled him to read or write in
comparative comfort, and, what was perhaps of greater consequence, with
the perfect preservation of his temper.

It may appear like affectation on my part when I say that any rise of
temperature, during the winter, was viewed by us with dissatisfaction.
Clad as we were to resist a cold of many degrees below zero, we were
made absolutely uncomfortable by the _heat_ when the thermometer
indicated any degree with a + sign. The only real good that we derived
from such a rise of temperature was that we were able more freely to
throw open the doors leading down to the lower deck, and thus admit a
thorough circulation of fresh air; on one occasion during the month of
November the temperature rose as high as 23°, and in December it reached
the unprecedented height (for that season of the year) of 35°! These, of
course, were only occasional jumps, never of long duration, and were
apparently produced by gales of wind from the S.W. Our experience at the
"Alert's" winter quarters was that a breeze of wind raised the
temperature, and that our coldest weather was always registered on
perfectly still and clear days! During boisterous tempestuous weather
the pack, although stationary, moaned and groaned weirdly, as if unhappy
gnomes, imprisoned in the cold grasp of the frozen sea, were bewailing
their hard fate, and pleading for release from their icy fetters. The
young ice, too, in the vicinity of the ship cracked in a most alarming
manner, each crack being accompanied by a sharp and loud report, and
formed great fissures, leaving the surface, which had hitherto been
smooth and level, rugged and uneven. Well might the "Ancient Mariner,"
describing such a scene, say--

  "It cracked and growled, and roared and howled,
  Like noises in a swound."

This movement of the ice, slight as it was, exposed the "Alert" to great
pressure, and although it did not amount to an actual "nip," nor did it
in any way cause injury to the ship, it made her list over several
degrees. Now, as we in the ward-room were on a limited allowance of
wine, namely two glasses a day, this heeling over of the vessel caused
us great annoyance, as it prevented our glasses from being filled to the
brim, a custom that had been rigidly followed out since leaving England.
This curtailment of our "rights," as we were pleased to call them, was
very naturally regarded with a certain amount of disfavour. In order to
lessen, if we could not entirely rectify this evil, we supplied
ourselves with ingeniously made little wedges, which, being placed under
the _lee_ side of the wine-glass, brought it so nearly upright that we
succeeded in very nearly getting our full allowance.

The birthdays of the officers were invariably celebrated by the best
dinners that our indefatigable and energetic caterers could provide,
always having in view the chance of the ship spending three winters in
the Arctic Regions. As a special indulgence we were also allowed on
these occasions a glass of port wine after dinner, a treat that we
ordinarily had only twice a week. The composition of the _menus_ for
these sumptuous feasts was always a subject of anxious care and
forethought on the part of those who were entrusted with this important
duty. Long and earnest were the consultations that were held, before one
of them was satisfactorily composed and placed in the printer's hands.


  [Illustration]

  MENU.

  POTAGES.
  Mulligatawny.

  POISSONS.
  Pégouse à la Couverture de Laine.[2]

  ENTRÉES.
  Petits Pâtés d'Homard à la Chasse.[3]
  Rognons à la Pain rôti.

  RELEVÉS.
  Mouton rôti à l'Anglais. Tongues on Gimbals.

  ENTREMETS.
  Poudin aux Raisins.
  Blanc-manger à la Hummock.
  Petits Pâtés d'Hahis à la place d'Eccleston.

  DESSERT.
  Poudin glacé à la Hyperborean.
  Figues. Noce.
  Gâteau à l'lrlandais.
  Café et Liqueur á la Jesson.

    _November 11th_, 1875.


As we were living in a land in which little could be obtained in the way
of change, the object was to diversify as much as possible the names of
the same viands, so as to make the guests believe that the dinners were
entirely different. The names given to some of the dishes were decidedly
original. On the previous page is the first _printed_ bill of fare that
was placed on the table.

Shortly after the ship had been established in winter quarters, a
careful calculation was made of the amount of fresh meat we possessed.

By fresh meat, I mean meat of the musk-oxen and sheep that we had
killed, and not the fresh _preserved_ meat, of which we had an ample
supply. It was found we had sufficient to yield fourteen meals, at the
rate of one pound per man per meal. It was, therefore, determined to
issue a fresh meat meal twice every three weeks, and, at the doctor's
recommendation, this was done on two consecutive days. In his opinion
this method of apportioning it was the most conducive to health.

Beer, of which we had been provided with ten hogsheads specially brewed
for us by Allsopp, was issued, so long as a cask was "on tap," twice a
week. On these days half the allowance of spirits only was served out.

On Sundays Divine service was regularly performed between decks; the
morning and evening services being read on alternate Sundays.

Prayers were read daily on the upper deck. The Holy Communion was
celebrated on the first Sunday in every month. Considering the small
number of men from among whom the choir was selected, and the
necessarily slight amount of practice they could have, the singing at
church was very creditable. Aldrich played the accompaniment on a
harmonium that we had obtained from the ward-room officers of the
"Valorous," before parting company with that ship at Disco. The credit
of originating and instructing the choir was, of course, due to Pullen
and Aldrich.

Medical inspections were held regularly on the first day of each month,
when every officer and man was minutely questioned and examined. Nothing
could be more satisfactory than the medical report of the sanitary
condition of the men at the conclusion of these examinations.

The amount of compulsory open-air exercise that had to be taken by each
man was two hours a day; but most of the men, that is to say all the
working hands exclusive of cooks, stewards, and servants, were
invariably at work, _outside_ the ship, for at least five hours a day. A
very favourite and at the same time healthy pastime of the men in their
leisure hours, when the moon was up, was that of "tabogganing." This
consisted in dragging one of our small satellites or dog-sledges to the
summit of a neighbouring hill, and then coming down, two or three on the
sledge, at the rate of about sixty or seventy miles an hour! The men
enjoyed this amazingly, and used to race one sledge against another. As
they were not very expert in the management of these "taboggans," and
had little confidence in their own steering, they would, when they saw
there was a chance of their sledge coming to grief, tumble out and roll
for some distance after it. Fortunately the snow was soft and they never
came to harm.

Rawson, who had acquired a knowledge of this sport in Canada, was the
first to introduce it in the far north. The dexterity with which he
managed his "taboggan" was marvellous, and he would frequently,
accompanied by one of his messmates, come down the steep side of one of
the highest floe-bergs in the vicinity of the ship. Poor "Nellie" could
never understand whence the motive power of these machines was derived,
and used to rush round barking at us in a frantic manner when we first
started, until left far behind plunging in the soft snow and struggling
to keep pace with us.

It was wonderful how this dog withstood the cold. The colder the day the
more she appeared to enjoy it, dashing about in the soft fine snow and
picking up pieces of ice in her mouth for the purpose of having them
thrown for her. It must be remembered that for any one of us to touch a
piece of ice with the uncovered hand in a temperature 50° below zero
would have been a very serious matter; yet Nellie was able, in the same
temperature, to carry pieces of ice, or bits of metal or stone, in her
mouth for hours together. The only cause of annoyance to the poor old
doggie was the caking or balling of the snow between her toes, which
used to trouble her a good deal. To obviate this, four little flannel
moccasins were made for her feet; but, although she enjoyed wearing them
and seemed to be proud of her appearance in them, they had to be
discontinued, as we were afraid that the tying them on sufficiently
tight to prevent their coming off might stop the circulation of the
blood and thus produce frost-bite. On the whole, however, Nellie throve
wonderfully well, and until the following summer enjoyed perfect health.
She was my constant companion wherever I went, attending me during my
walks, and lying curled up at my feet in the observatory during the long
hours that I was employed taking magnetic observations. She always slept
in an arm-chair in my cabin, being provided with her own little blanket,
on which her name was embroidered.

[Illustration: NELLIE.]

Before concluding this chapter it will be as well to relate an
interesting and rather curious incident connected with one of our Eskimo
dogs.

In Aldrich's sledge journey to Cape Joseph Henry, one of his dogs
(Sallie), being attacked with a fit, had to be cast off from the team
and was no more seen by him during that journey.

On crossing the floe with my sledge party about a week after, we were
suddenly joined, to our great surprise, by an Eskimo dog which the men
readily recognized as Sallie; all our attempts to make her approach were
unsuccessful, although she followed us at a distance during the day and
hovered round our camp, picking up scraps of pemmican that had been
purposely left out for her during the night. She eluded all attempts at
being caught, running away on the ice and disappearing amongst the
hummocks. She followed us faithfully, at a distance, until the day we
returned to the ship, when she vanished altogether. She was last seen on
the floe about four miles from the "Alert."

Amid the many preparations for the winter, poor Sallie was forgotten and
had almost passed out of recollection altogether, when one day in
December, more than _two_ months after she had been last seen, a strange
dog was observed hovering round the ship. This strange dog proved to be
the long-lost Sallie!

No amount of coaxing would persuade her to come near us, and she was
eventually driven off by the other Eskimo dogs, and took refuge on the
pack. On the following day she again made her appearance, and this time
we succeeded in getting her on board and into a place of safety. She was
terribly thin and emaciated; but being well cared for and attended to,
she rapidly picked up, and was eventually the strongest and best dog in
our whole team.

The question as to how she had existed during her long absence from the
ship was a difficult one to solve. At first it was surmised that she had
attached herself to a pack of wolves; but this idea was scouted, as no
tracks had been seen to lead us to believe that these animals existed in
our neighbourhood. It is not probable that she obtained anything from
the ship during the time she was missing, or that she picked up scraps
from the other dogs, for on her appearance she was at once driven away
by her old companions. The only probable conclusion that we could arrive
at was that she had supported life by hunting and feasting on lemmings,
for the traces of these little animals were the only indications that we
had of the existence, outside our own circle, of animal life.


FOOTNOTES:

  [1] Nelson served as a midshipman on board the "Carcass," in Captain
    Phipps' North Polar Expedition in 1773.

  [2] Blanket wrappers were articles of wearing apparel.

  [3] The name of the cook was Hunt.




CHAPTER XVI.

AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS.


  "So now is come our joyful'st feast,
     Let every man be jolly,
   Eache roome with yvie leaves is drest,
     And every post with holly;
   Now all our neighbours' chimneys smoke,
     And Christmas blocks are burning;
   Their ovens they with baked meats choke,
     And all their spits are turning.
   Without the door let sorrow lie,
     And if, for cold, it hap to die,
   We'll bury't in a Christmas pye,
     And ever more be merry."

     WITHER.

On the 21st of December the sun reached its greatest southern
declination. We felt on that day that we had cause for rejoicing. The
sun had arrived at the limit of its southern journey, and now it would,
every day, be travelling to the northward, and therefore in our
direction. So rapidly had the time passed that Christmas stole upon us
unawares, and we were only reminded of its approach by the strong odour
of good things being cooked that pervaded the whole ship, bringing to
our minds the fact that preparations for its celebration had actually
commenced. Nothing was omitted that could possibly add to the comfort
and enjoyment of the men on this day. The ship's stores were thrown
open and they were allowed to provide themselves with an unlimited
amount, so long as there was no waste, of flour, raisins, sugar, and
preserved fruits, and in addition to the regular daily allowance of
meat, a pound of musk-ox beef and a pound of mutton were issued to each
man. For the two previous days, during which they had been disturbed as
little as possible, the men were engaged in making the necessary
preparations for spending their Christmas as happily and as socially as
if they were in a more genial climate. It must be remembered that this
was a day looked forward to by all, not only in the light of a festival,
but because it was also regarded as the turning-point of the winter.
After Christmas every day would bring us nearer to the sun, whose bright
face we all so ardently wished to welcome once more. Moreover, Christmas
day, to a community situated as we were, "away from the busy haunts of
men," must always be regarded as an epoch, a day looked forward to, and
when passed, a day from which many events are dated.

In addition to the supplies afforded by the stores of the ship, we were
largely indebted to kind, and in several instances unknown, friends and
well-wishers to the expedition in England for many little articles that
assisted to amuse our men during this festive season. Amongst these the
kind and generous ladies of Queenstown must not be forgotten. These
ladies had, previous to our departure from England, formed themselves
into a Committee, and had sent to each ship a large Christmas-box
containing many useful, and indeed valuable, articles. Each officer
received some little package, personally directed to himself, and every
man was presented with some pretty little Christmas-box. Nothing could
have been more happily thought of, and it would have done the fair
donors good could they but have witnessed the pleasure testified by the
recipients at the distribution of the contents of their case.

I must not omit to mention another Christmas-box, kindly sent by Mr.
Mason, the inventor, I believe, of "Somebody's Luggage," and containing
all sorts of amusing little articles suitable either for decorating a
table or a Christmas-tree.

Another act of kindness on the part of our friends in England was also
much appreciated by both officers and men. A young lady, a relative of
one of the officers, had taken the trouble to direct a letter to each
individual on board, containing a beautiful Christmas card. To make it
appear as if they had been actually delivered through the post, a
second-hand postage-stamp had been affixed to each envelope. Her kind
forethought afforded a great deal of pleasure to the recipients of those
letters.

Christmas eve was spent very merrily by all on board the "Alert." The
piano was carried out from the ward-room to the main deck, where dancing
was kept up with great animation until eleven o'clock! It is wonderful
how fond the English man-of-war's man is of dancing. So long as he can
obtain music and a partner to dance with, without regard to sex, he will
continue to fling his legs about with great vigour until compelled by
heat and exhaustion to desist! The men on board the "Alert" were no
exception to this rule; one and all joined in the dance, and seemed
thoroughly to enjoy it. Poor Aldrich did not get a moment's peace. As
soon as one tune was finished, he was called upon for another. Polka,
waltz, and galop followed each other in rapid succession, officers and
men joining alike in the general hilarity of the evening.

Christmas morning broke cold and clear; its stillness occasionally
interrupted by light puffs of wind from the S.W. Divine service was
performed in the forenoon, the pulpit being decorated with branches of
artificial holly. When church was over, a little exercise was taken on
the "ladies' mile." On my return I found my cabin brightened up by small
twigs of variegated holly, a delicate and touching attention on the part
of some of my messmates, who had provided themselves with artificial
branches of this plant before leaving England. At one o'clock,
everything being in readiness, the officers were invited to inspect the
lower deck. Preceded by our drum and fife band playing the "Roast Beef
of Old England," we paid a formal visit to the men's quarters. The lower
deck was beautifully and tastefully decorated with flags, coloured
tinsel paper, and artificial flowers, whilst the different mess tables
were literally groaning under the weight of the good cheer that adorned
them. Everything had a cheerful and comfortable appearance, and, above
all, the radiant healthy-looking faces, beaming with pleasure, that so
cordially and heartily greeted us with the compliments of the season. Of
course, dancing was the prominent feature of the afternoon, Aldrich,
with his usual good nature, being again victimized at the piano. At six
o'clock, for on such an important occasion we departed from our usual
dinner hour of half-past two, we all assembled in the ward-room for
dinner, and great was our astonishment and delight at seeing in the
centre of our table a magnificent bouquet of artificial flowers. This
was, I believe, the happy thought of a lady who had recently been
admitted into the circle of "Arctic relations." The bright-coloured
flowers, reminding us of home associations, were more thoroughly
appreciated than even the good dinner which was provided for us, for
which reference must be made to the following _menu_, composed by
Pullen:--

H.M.S. "ALERT."

  À la Juliènne soup is the _potage_ we favour,
    And soles fried _au naturel_ serve us for fish;
  We have cutlets and green peas of elegant flavour--
    Beef garnished with mushrooms--a true English dish.

  Then a mountain of beef from our cold Greenland valleys,
    Overshadowing proudly boiled mutton hard by,
  Till our appetite, waning, just playfully dallies
    With a small slice of ham--then gives in with a sigh.

  For lo! a real English plum-pudding doth greet us,
    And a crest of bright holly adorns its bold brow;
  While the choicest mince pies are yet waiting to meet us:
    Alas! are we equal to meeting them now?

  So we drink to our Queen, and we drink to the maiden,
    The wife, or the mother, that holds us most dear;
  And may we and our consort sail home richly laden
    With the spoils of success, ere December next year!

In addition to the bill of fare, the annexed poem by the same
accomplished author was printed and placed in front of each member of
the mess.

  On this glad Christmas Day,
    While happy bells are flinging
  O'er bright lands far away
    Their burst of joyous singing,
  We love to think that each sweet lay,
    That sets those echoes ringing,
  Hushed music from our icy bay
    To loving hearts is bringing.

  Hushed music that shall tell
    How He has left us never,
  In whose dear sight we dwell,
    Who aids our high endeavour;
  Who, from the hearts that love us well,
    Our short lives will not sever,
  For whose good gifts our breasts shall swell
    With grateful praise for ever!

Our drum and fife band, of their own accord, played several airs very
creditably during our dinner, which was brought to a conclusion by a few
short speeches. In the evening dancing was again kept up with great
animation; every one appeared cheerful and happy. In no region of the
world could this Christmas-day have been spent with more mirth and more
genuine fellowship than it was by the little band of explorers, so far
removed from all home ties and associations, who were celebrating it
that day, in a latitude farther north than man had ever before
penetrated.

On reviewing the events of the year we felt we had much to be thankful
for. We had succeeded, in spite of many dangers and difficulties, in
establishing our ship in winter quarters in a position farther north
than even some of the most sanguine had, at one time, dared to hope. The
English flag had been displayed, both by sea and by land, in a higher
northern latitude than any flag had ever before been seen, and although
our prospects of further exploration in a northerly direction were
somewhat damped, owing to the land trending west, we knew that there was
much to be done during the ensuing year in defining and exploring the
coasts to the east and to the west. A wide field of exploration was
still before us, and there was much useful work to be done during the
ensuing spring in a hitherto unknown region.

Half our winter had passed, and although the long dark night of one
hundred and fifty days might, by some unacquainted with the many
resources we possessed to while away the time, be considered dull and
monotonous, monotony and despondency were unknown on board the good ship
"Alert." We all looked forward with eager hope to the return of the sun,
strong in our determination to do our best, and with our appetites for
sledging considerably whetted by the initiation we had received during
the autumn.

Hitherto we had, with one exception, enjoyed perfect immunity from
sickness, and we all thought that if there was no cold weather in the
Arctic Regions to produce frost-bites, the appointments of medical
officers to the expedition, so far as their professional qualifications
were concerned, were undoubted sinecures. The frost-bites had, however,
been very severe, and at the end of the year there still remained on the
sick list four of the poor fellows who had been attacked during the
autumn sledging, three of whom had suffered amputation of the big toe.

Compelled to keep to their beds, the winter to them must have, indeed,
been wearisome; but no word of complaint was ever uttered by them, and
they appeared as cheerful and in as good spirits as the best of us.
Their only distress was the idea of not being allowed, in consequence of
their misfortune, to participate in the spring campaign. The sequel,
however, proved, although they took no part in the _extended_ sledging
operations, how well and how nobly they worked in their brave endeavours
to assist and succour their poor, weak, and stricken comrades; but we
must not anticipate.

We had hitherto experienced, in comparison with what we had been led to
expect, tolerably mild weather, as Arctic winter weather goes; and the
cold had not been so severe as we anticipated; -46.5° or 78½° below
freezing-point being, up to the end of the year, the minimum temperature
registered. This was by no means an uncomfortable temperature, although
superficial frost-bites, especially on the noses and cheekbones, were of
constant occurrence. Solitary walks were, of course, prohibited; and it
was particularly impressed upon every one that, when they were absent
from the ship, they were carefully to watch their companions' faces in
order to detect a frost-bite at once, and so be able to restore
circulation before permanent injury could be sustained. Face-covers were
occasionally worn, but were not in very great favour. They have the
disadvantage of freezing to the face, which they also conceal, and so
prevent a comrade from seeing and reporting a frost-bite.

In the neighbourhood of our winter quarters there had, up to this time,
been a remarkable absence of all animal life. Occasionally the
quarter-masters would report that during the night they heard the
howling of wolves in the distance, and one night the Eskimo dogs, who
were lying curled up in the snow outside the ship, made a sudden rush
for the gangway, and evinced great eagerness to get on board. This
stampede was attributed to the presence of wolves, but no tracks of
these animals had been seen to justify our arriving at such a
conclusion. With the exception sometimes of a peculiar, whistling,
moaning sound, caused by the rise and fall of the ice with the tide, the
stillness of the nights was undisturbed.

We had long been aware that the ice of which this part of the polar sea
was composed consisted of huge massive floes, not of a few seasons'
formation, but the creation of ages, real thick-ribbed ice. Except along
the west coasts of Banks and Prince Patrick Islands, no such ice had
ever before been met with in the Arctic Regions. It therefore became
desirable to apply to it a special name by which it might be
provisionally known. After some discussion, Captain Nares decided upon
calling the frozen sea, on the southern border of which we were
wintering, the "Palæocrystic Sea," the name being derived from the two
Greek words [Greek: palaios] ancient, and [Greek: krystallos] ice. This
term was used for the great frozen polar sea during the remaining period
of our detention on its borders.[1]

Atmospheric phenomena, such as halos and paraselenæ, were by no means
uncommon, and occasionally we were astonished by the heavenly bodies
behaving, as it appeared to us, in a very eccentric manner. On one
occasion the star Aldebaran was reported to be jumping about in a
strange way. Such unusual behaviour on the part of a star brought us all
up in the cold, and there, sure enough, was Aldebaran doing exactly what
was reported, and altogether conducting itself in a very erratic and
unstarlike manner. The illusion was caused by the fall of minute, and
imperceptible, frozen particles; but it was some time before we could
satisfy ourselves that the star was not actually in motion, many of the
men remaining to this day unconvinced. One of our Scotch quarter-masters
informed me, some time afterwards, that it was a "vara curious star;"
and although the laws of refraction were explained to him, he still
persisted in his belief that the movement of the star was due to itself,
and would not believe in any other explanation.

At the beginning of the winter, shortly after the return of the sledge
parties, the doctor and myself being busily engaged in the construction
of a snow house on shore, observed a most brilliant meteor fall,
apparently about a quarter of a mile from us, its course being from S.E.
to N.W. It was of a bright emerald-green colour, and was falling so
quietly and slowly that we at first thought it was a rocket, or Roman
candle, let off by some one astern of the ship, it being distinctly
visible for many seconds. When it arrived, in our estimation, at about
forty feet from the ground, it suddenly burst, displaying bright red and
green colours. It was seen by others, from different points of
observation; all being unanimous in their opinion that it was one of the
most beautiful sights, of the kind, they had ever witnessed.


FOOTNOTE:

  [1] The word may not be formed on strictly accurate principles, but
    it is sufficiently expressive of the fact it is intended to
    represent, and it is now endeared to us by association and by common
    usage while serving in the far north.




CHAPTER XVII.

A HAPPY NEW YEAR.


  The old year dies on southern skies,
    And leafless woods that moan and quiver;
  The shadows creep o'er ocean deep,
    And silent lake and rustling river;
  And all is gloom around the tomb
    Of wasted moments, lost for ever.

  The new year gleams on silver streams,
    Where meadows smile in sunlit glances;
  The dark shades flee across the sea,
    And the wild wavelet laughs and dances;
  And all is bright where new-born light
    Brings hope to man and golden chances.

  O happy year! that tells us here
    The same sweet, ever-welcome story,
  That soon, so soon! one radiant noon
    Shall plunge in light yon summits hoary,
  That point our way through endless day
    To joyous triumphs, home, and glory.

    H. W. PULLEN,

    H.M.S. "Alert,"

      _January 1st_, 1876.

The above lines, composed by the poet laureate of the expedition,
greeted us at the breakfast table on the morning of the 1st of January,
1876.

The New Year was ushered in with every demonstration of joy, gratitude,
and hope by our little party assembled together, so far removed from the
civilized world. We were joyful because a new year had dawned upon us
in undiminished numbers; grateful for the many mercies that had been
vouchsafed to us, and hopeful concerning our future prospects. We could
not look back with regret upon the past year, for to us it had indeed
been eventful; but officers and men looked forward to the coming year
with feelings of confidence, resolutely determined faithfully to perform
their duties, placing their trust in Him who had hitherto so well
watched over and protected them, and firm in their reliance on His
continued aid and support.

It is generally the custom in the navy to strike the bell sixteen times
at midnight on New Year's eve--eight bells for the old year and eight
bells for the new! Of course with us this custom was rigidly adhered to;
but not only did we strike sixteen bells at _our_ midnight, but we also
struck the same number at six minutes to eight, which, allowing for the
exact difference in time, would be midnight in England, so that we had
at least the satisfaction of knowing that our bell was being employed in
the same way as many others in the navy at the same time.

Perhaps it may be interesting to my readers to know exactly how we
received the New Year! I will, therefore, quote my remarks as they
appear, word for word, in my journal.

"At five minutes to twelve, we all congregated round the ward-room
table, on which was spread a sumptuous cold collation, consisting of a
_real_ English ham, Bologna sausages, brawn, and sardines. Strong
whiskey punch, in the brewing of which all had a share, was ladled out
to each, and from the encomiums which were passed on its flavour and
strength, the old proverb that 'too many cooks spoil the broth' was
completely upset. As the bell struck, a neat little speech was made by
our orator the doctor, the compliments of the season were wished to all,
nor were those at home forgotten, our glasses were emptied, and then in
true Highland fashion, with one foot on the table, the other on our
chair, and with hands joined, we all sang 'Auld lang syne,' the drum and
fife band accompanying us outside, the song being taken up by the men on
the lower deck, who, true to their tastes, had been '_dancing_ out the
old year.' Such was the manner in which the year 1876 was inaugurated in
latitude 82° 27´ N., where no human being had ever welcomed a new year
before."

A more cheerful, happy, and contented party it would be difficult to
imagine anywhere; utterly oblivious of the solemn darkness and desolate
sterility that prevailed without, they thought only of the "joyous
triumph" that they hoped to achieve, and then of their return to old
England. Everything wore a cheerful aspect. No leader could have more
reason to be satisfied with the health and spirits of those under his
command, than Captain Nares on the 1st of January, 1876.

On that morning, at the usual monthly medical inspection, he had the
satisfaction of receiving the report that the men were in a better state
of health than they were at the last examination. Appetites, which
during mid-winter had been waning, had gradually returned. So contented
were we, that many were actually pitying our friends in England, because
they were unable to enjoy such delicious musk-ox beef as was put on our
table for dinner on New Year's day!

Our first crop of mustard and cress was gathered on the 2nd of January.
It was not an abundant one, but there was sufficient to give a mouthful
to each person, and what little we had was certainly very refreshing. It
had grown up devoid of all colour, and had a very _washed-out_
appearance. The garden was a small shallow box kept close to the
ward-room stove. In consequence of the success attending this--our
first--attempt at agriculture, several gardens were started, and we were
enabled to issue, at different times, small quantities of this excellent
antiscorbutic; though how far the loss of colour detracts from its
medicinal qualities is a difficult problem to solve. Although the colour
was absent, the fresh _taste_ appeared to remain, there being no
perceptible difference between that grown on board the "Alert," and the
same reared in the heat of the sun in more favoured climes. As a rule,
the best crops were those grown on a blanket.

On the 8th and 9th of January we experienced a heavy gale of wind from
the southward. It was impossible, whilst it lasted, to venture outside
the ship, even to take the thermometric observations, although they
could be registered only a few yards from the gangway: they had
therefore to be discontinued during the time the gale lasted. It blew
for forty-eight hours with relentless fury, when it exhausted itself in
fitful gusts, more or less strong, until it abated altogether. The
housing over the ship suffered sadly from this storm, several tons
weight of snow having collected on it from the tremendous drift, in some
places breaking it through, and in others "bagging" it down so as to
render walking underneath an impossibility.

All our outdoor establishments were completely buried with snow, and we
were compelled to send parties of men to excavate them, in order to
effect an entrance at all. In fact, our men were for some time engaged
in repairing the ravages of the storm. The accumulation of drift on the
weather side of the ship was enormous, and took the form of a perfectly
solid snow-wreath. This was caused by the eddying wind driving the snow
from the side of the vessel to a distance of about four or five feet,
where it settled, resembling a great frozen wave, whose curling crest
was fully seven feet in height.

On the opposite, or lee, side of the ship the ice had cracked, leaving
several large fissures, through which the water oozed and flowed over.
The spring tides had also caused the ship to rise in her icy cradle, the
greater part of the banking having, in consequence, slipped through
between the edge of our dock and the ship's side and disappeared. This
also had to be rectified. Our gale of wind had undoubtedly been
productive of much extra work, irrespective of the anxiety and the by no
means pleasant time spent, during its duration: for as yet our
protecting bergs had not inspired us with absolute confidence regarding
the shelter they might afford in such tempestuous weather as we had
recently experienced. So well, however, did they answer our purpose
during this gale, that all cause for anxiety was from that time removed,
and for the future we felt as safe and as secure as if we had been
frozen up in a well-sheltered and land-locked harbour.

When the wind was at its height, a piece of musk-ox meat, suspended in
the mizzen-rigging, was blown down, and was, of course, at once assailed
by the Eskimo dogs who had been admitted into the ship during the gale.
Fortunately it was frozen so hard that they were unable to get their
teeth through it, and although it had been some time in their clutches
before it was rescued, little loss was sustained.

At noon on the 17th of January, a faint tinge of crimson, blended with a
slight silvery streak of twilight, could be observed in the southern
horizon, and although it was only of short duration, it became more
decided and lasted for a longer time on each successive day. These
bright harbingers of returning light were anxiously watched, and gladly
were they welcomed as they assumed a more decided appearance.

Although there was no despondency or depression of spirits on board the
"Alert," the monotony of the long dark nights could not but be felt, and
we all eagerly looked forward to the time when the glorious rays from
our bright, though long-absent, sun should again crown the summits of
the distant hills with their sparkling and joyous light. All on board
were interested for different reasons in the return of the sun: the
sledge travellers, because it would bring light and heat to cheer and
sustain them on their lonesome and arduous journeys, which they knew
would be commenced as soon after its return as possible: the sportsmen
regarded it as the precursor of game; and all hailed with delight the
symbol of returning day and the assurance of the approaching termination
of their long dark night. By the 1st of February, those gifted with
sharp eyesight were just able to decipher a leading article in the
_Times_ on the floe at noon. It was remarked that one of our officers
afflicted with short-sightedness was able, by the dim twilight, to read
not only with greater ease and accuracy than others, but also some days
before them, and therefore by a dimmer light.

We had hitherto had no exceptionally severe weather; but during the
latter part of January we experienced a foretaste of the intense cold
that we were a month later destined to endure. With a temperature 50°
below zero, it is necessary, when exposed to it, to keep the body in
constant motion, otherwise a frost-bite will imperceptibly seize hold of
one. On first emerging into this temperature a slight difficulty of
breathing would be experienced, and tears would be involuntarily brought
to the eyes, which immediately became small nodules of ice, and as such
had to be extracted. This is hardly to be wondered at when it is
remembered that we had to undergo a transition of temperature from our
living-deck to the open air of over 100°! In spite of this cold,
however, we were not much troubled with frost-bites, except on the face.
Our dearly bought experience, during the autumn sledging, will account
for our comparative immunity from these very troublesome and painful
attacks.

Apropos of frost-bites it is related, that one of the members of the
expedition, on getting up in the morning, during the cold weather,
found, to his horror, that one of his toes and a part of his foot were
quite black. Thinking he was severely frost-bitten, and wishing at once
to assure himself of the fact by the only practical method that
suggested itself at the time, he seized a pin, and made a furious dig at
the supposed injured part. He very quickly found that, although
discoloured, it was not totally devoid of all sensation, nor was the
circulation of blood in any way impeded. The fact was, that his servant,
on the previous day, had patched up his sock with a piece of fearnought,
and, in order to assimilate the colour, had inked it over--which fully
accounted for his terrible frost-bite!

It was our invariable custom to keep the hair, especially that growing
on the face, as close as possible. In spite, however, of this
precaution, it was impossible to prevent the breath from freezing on the
short stubbly beard and moustache, which would soon be converted into a
perfect mass of ice--a decidedly uncomfortable appendage. On returning
from our short walks, we frequently found our cap, comforter, and collar
of the coat frozen into one solid and compact mass.

Occasionally an amusing incident occurred to vary the sameness of our
daily life, as the following story will show. During the darkest part of
the winter one of the magnetic observers had occasion to visit the
observatory. Taking his lantern, and accompanied by Nellie, he reached
the door, which to his surprise was open. Supposing it to have been
blown open by the wind, for it had been blowing very hard the previous
night, he entered the long tunnel leading up to the Unifilar House.
Before he had gone far a strong animal smell assailed his olfactory
organs; this, with the fact of Nellie exhibiting great restlessness,
induced him to examine the ground, when he clearly detected the traces
of some animal, but of what description he was unable to decide.

He was now placed in rather an unpleasant position, for to advance
head-foremost through a narrow passage into a small house in which a
great Polar bear might have established himself, was to say the least a
rash act; yet he was unwilling to return on board, and probably be for
ever after chaffed by his messmates for being frightened at nothing.
Putting on a bold front, he determined at all hazards to push on, and
ascertain what the animal was that had dared to violate the sacred
precincts of the observatory. As he advanced the peculiar odour became
stronger, and he was sorely tempted to retreat, thinking discretion was
the better part of valour. Arriving at the entrance to the house,
however, he plucked up courage, and with the lantern well in front of
him, and Nellie close at his heels, he dashed in, and there, lying down
and looking almost as frightened as himself, was, not the great white
bear that he expected to meet, but "Bruin," the largest of our Eskimo
dogs, who, during the boisterous weather of the preceding night, had
sought shelter in our observatory, and had no doubt found it a very snug
and comfortable place, infinitely preferable to the bleak and exposed
floe. It was a long time before the place was rid of the unpleasant
smell peculiar to Eskimo dogs.

As the light increased day by day, the men were employed in re-embarking
the stores and provisions landed, and in demolishing "Markham Hall." It
was necessary to accomplish as much as possible, as Captain Nares well
knew, before the departure of the sledging parties, for so few men would
be left on board that little could be done during their absence, and
there was no saying how soon after their return the ship would be able
to break out of winter quarters. The Eskimo dogs were also now regularly
fed and attended to. Hitherto they had been left to do pretty much as
they liked, and their regular meals during the winter had been few, and
served at uncertain times. Notwithstanding the small amount of food that
was issued to them, they were all in capital condition, in fact a little
too "fleshy" for dragging purposes, as they always received the scraps
and surplus food from the allowance of the ship's company, and this was
more than enough to keep a much larger pack of dogs than we possessed.
They were also regularly exercised in dragging a light sledge, their
day's work increasing as the days lengthened.

We could not but notice the sallowness of complexion which the returning
light revealed, only too palpably, in the faces of our companions,
caused by the long absence of the sun, and which had hitherto been
unnoticed by the light of lamps and candles. Like our mustard and cress,
we were devoid of all colour, yet apparently in good and sound health.
There is something essentially health-preserving and life-giving in the
rays of the sun, without which everything must wither and eventually
die. This was, in the sequel, but too fully exemplified in our case. For
although we were all in excellent spirits and supposed ourselves to be
in perfect health, yet the seeds of that terrible disease, which
subsequently crippled us so disastrously, must have already germinated
unknown to ourselves.

But little did we suspect, at that time, the approach of the evil that
eventually overtook us.

Many of the large floe-bergs near the ship were observed to be literally
rent in twain, owing in all probability to the contraction of the ice by
the intense cold--the outer part of the floeberg being exposed to a
greater cold than the interior. These rents will also account for the
loud sharp reports that were frequently heard during the winter, and
which were for some time wrapped in mystery.

Towards the end of February a few hares were seen, and two or three were
shot; but they were very timid and shy, and seldom gave our sportsmen
opportunities of exhibiting their prowess. Lemming tracks were
abundant, and occasionally these little animals would be seen running
along the snow. Nellie regarded them as being created for her especial
enjoyment in hunting, and would vainly endeavour to unsnow them after
they had taken refuge in their holes. Woe betide the unfortunate little
lemming observed by Nellie at any distance from its habitation. A dash,
a gobble, and all was over! In vain did we try to break her of these
murderous propensities, not only for the sake of the victims but also
for herself, as the swallowing of little balls of fur cannot be
conducive to health. All was futile! Nellie considered the chase of
these little creatures as an undoubted privilege with which no one
should interfere.

[Illustration: LEMMINGS.]

The long twilight enabled us to extend our rambles, and we visited the
snow hut built by Rawson last autumn when attempting to get south, about
five or six miles from the ship, and in which he had deposited a small
quantity of provisions. To our surprise we discovered that, with the
exception of the pemmican which was in a tin, and the tobacco, all had
disappeared! Biscuit, bacon, tea, sugar, and cocoa, all had gone. A hole
through the roof of the house pointed at once to the means of ingress;
but who were the thieves? Foxes or wolves had not been seen, nor had any
traces of them been observed!

Even supposing these animals to be the depredators, how did they effect
their escape from the house after once they had got in? It was simple
enough to scrape a hole through the roof and jump down; but it was not
so easy to jump straight up a height of six or seven feet through a
small hole! Suspicion fell for some time on our long-missing dog Sallie;
but it was never satisfactorily ascertained whether dog, wolf, or fox
was the culprit. Of one thing there could be no doubt. The robbery had
been committed by a very cunning and intelligent beast. Spots of blood
on the pemmican tin showed unmistakeably that this also had been
attempted, but had proved too hard and strong. The tracks, which were
always to and from the floe, were too indistinct to enable us to make
out the nature of the animal, but the general idea was that it was a
fox.

Of course, with returning daylight, the serious work of sledging and the
preparations for the spring campaign occupied our attention to the
exclusion of almost everything else. On Saturday, the 26th of February,
our school assembled for the last time, the classes being dismissed in
the evening only to reassemble again if the ship spent another winter
away from England. It would not be fair to dismiss our pupils without a
word of commendation. Their attendance was most regular, and their
efforts to learn beyond all praise. Nothing could exceed their
diligence, nor excel their desire to please and reflect credit upon
their masters, and I do hope that many will have benefited by the
instruction they received in their Arctic school.

On Thursday, the 24th of February, was performed our last dramatic
entertainment. The following was the programme.


  ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE.

  H.M.S. "Alert."

  Thursday, 24th February, 1876.

  [finger symbol] Last performance of the season.

  GRAND REPRESENTATION
    of the
  Original pathetico-comico-burlesque operetta entitled the
  LITTLE VULGAR BOY,
    or
  WEEPING BILL.

  Founded on the celebrated Ingoldsby Legend, "Misadventures at
  Margate."

  Written expressly for the occasion by the
  Rev. H. W. PULLEN.

  Scenery by Professor Moss, M.D. Music by Lieut. Aldrich.
  Manager: Lieut. May.

  Preceded by

  Reading   "The Blessed Babies"   Mr. Hunt.
  Song      "Fie, for shame"       Mr. Symons.

  CHARACTERS:

  Mr. Brown, an old buffer, slightly green        Commander Markham.

  Mrs. Jones, a landlady, slightly cross, but with a keen eye to
    business                                      G. Le C. Egerton, Esq.

  Jack Robinson; a seafaring man, slightly figurative in his language,
    and violently in love with Mrs. Jones         Lieut. Giffard.

  Weeping Bill, a little vulgar boy, slightly out at elbows, and fairly
    sharp for his age                             Lieut. Rawson.

  K 55, the irrepressible Bobby, slightly self-important, and the natural
    enemy of Weeping Bill                         Rev. H. W. Pullen.

  Scenes 1 and 3     The Jetty at Margate.
  Scenes 2 and 4     Mrs. Jones's lodgings.

  To commence at 7.30 precisely.

  God save the Queen.

  Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing office, Trap Lane.


This piece, as set forth in the bill, was written expressly for the
occasion by Pullen, and not only did he compose it, but he also assisted
in its performance. It was a very successful hit, and was most
deservedly applauded, loud cries of "Author" following the fall of the
curtain.

The ensuing Thursday witnessed the last of our "Thursday Pops," and this
terminated our season's festivities. At it Captain Nares delivered a
very able and instructive lecture on his sledging experiences, bringing
a few "facts" home to the men, as to the sort of work they were about to
perform, and the kind of life they would have to lead. His announcement
that we should, in all probability, spend another winter in the Arctic
Regions was hailed with delight. He also announced his intention of
returning to England before the third winter, provided no unforeseen
event happened to detain the expedition.

The following was the programme for the evening's entertainment.


  THURSDAY POPS.

  H.M.S. "Alert."

  [finger symbol] _Positively the last entertainment this winter._

  March 2, 1876.

  The season's festivities will terminate with the following
  programme:--

  1. The Palæocrystic Sea and Sledging Experiences       Capt. Nares.
  2. Ballad . . "The _Shannon_ and the _Chesapeake_"        Mr. Cane.
  3. Song . . "Susan's Sunday out"                    Mr. Stuckberry.
  4. Reading . "Two Bab Ballads"                   Rev. H. W. Pullen.
  5. Ballad. . "Over the Sea"                            Mr. Maskell.
  6. Song . . "Rummy old Codger"                          Mr. Pearce.
  7. Ballad. . "Seeing Nelly home"                          Mr. Self.
  8. Recitation . "On the Arctic Expedition, by J. D."   Sergt. Wood.
  9. Song . "Billy Woods the grocer"                        Mr. Gore.
  10. Ballad . "Beating of my own heart"                   Mr. Ayles.
  11. Part Song . "O who will o'er the downs so free"
                           Messrs. Aldrich, Pullen, May, and Wootton.

  To conclude with the grand Palæocrystic Sledging Chorus, by the entire
  strength of the house.

  To commence at 7.30 precisely.

  God save the Queen.

  Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing office, Trap Lane.


This chapter would be incomplete without the words of the "Grand
Palæocrystic Sledging Chorus."

This was also composed by our talented poet laureate, and was most
enthusiastically received by the whole ship's company, who vociferously
joined in singing it on all appropriate, and other, occasions.

It brought in the names of all the sledges that were employed in the
early part of the spring campaign, and became henceforth, as it were,
the "Arctic National Anthem."


  CHORUS.

  Not very long ago,
  On the six-foot floe
    Of the palæocrystic sea,
  Two ships did ride,
  Mid the crashing of the tide--
    The _Alert_ and the _Discovery_.

  The sun never shone
  The gallant crews upon
    For a hundred and forty-two days;
  But no darkness and no hummocks
  Their merry hearts could flummox:
  So they set to work and acted plays.

  There was music and song
  To help the hours along,
    Brought forth from the good ship's store;
  And each man did his best
  To amuse and cheer the rest:
    And "nobody can't do more."


  AIR--"The _Shannon_ and the _Chesapeake_."

  Here's a health to _Marco Polo_[1]--
  May he reach his northern goal, oh!
    And advance the flag of England into realms unknown!
  May the _Challenger_[2] be there,
  All comers bold to dare,
    And _Victoria_[3] be victorious in the frozen zone!

  May our _Poppie_[4] be in sight,
  With her colours streaming bright,
    And the _Bulldog_[5] tug on merrily from strand to strand!
  And the _Alexandra_[6] brave
  See our banner proudly wave
    O'er the highest cliffs and summits of the northernmost land!

  Here's a health to _Hercules_,[7]
  Whom the autumn blast did freeze,
    And all our gallant fellows whom the frost laid low!
  Just wait a little longer,
  Till they get a trifle stronger,
    And they'll never pull the worse because they've lost a toe.

  Here's a health, with three times three,
  To the brave _Discovery_,[8]
    And our merry, merry guests, so truly welcome here!
  And a brimming bumper yet
  To our valiant little pet--
    The lively _Clements Markham_,[9] with its bold charioteer!

  Here's a health to all true blue,
  To the officers and crew
    Who man this Expedition neat and handy, oh!
  And may they ever prove,
  Both in sledging and in love,
    That the tars of old Britannia are the dandy, oh!


FOOTNOTES:

  [1] Commander Markham's sledge.

  [2] Lieut. Aldrich's sledge.

  [3] Lieut. Parr's sledge.

  [4] Lieut. Giffard's sledge.

  [5] Dr. Moss's sledge.

  [6] Mr. White's sledge.

  [7] Lieut. May's sledge.

  [8] Lieut. Rawson's sledge.

  [9] Mr. Egerton's sledge.




CHAPTER XVIII.

RETURN OF THE SUN.


  "Most glorious orb! that were a worship, ere
   The mystery of thy making was revealed!
   Thou earliest minister of the Almighty
   Which gladdened on their mountain tops the hearts
   Of the Chaldean shepherds, till they poured
   Themselves in orisons."

     BYRON.

The 29th of February was the day on which, according to astronomical
rules, the reappearance of the sun was to rejoice the hearts and gladden
the eyes of our little party. On the previous day, a general holiday had
been proclaimed to give the men a chance, by ascending some of the hills
in our neighbourhood, of welcoming the sun a day earlier. In this,
however, they were doomed to disappointment. The glorious orb would not
come out to be welcomed; for the simple reason that it was still just
below the horizon. We were, however, rewarded by seeing its rays
reflected in the northern sky, which was beautifully illumined with the
most brilliant prismatic colours. Cairn Hill, and the hills to the
southward by Cape Rawson, were the chief points of observation. The
former was abreast of the ship, and about a mile distant; its height
being about four hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea. On
the summit was built a large cairn, hence its name. On the cairn was
reared a long staff, to which was hoisted an iron oil cask, so as to
form a conspicuous landmark to guide wanderers back to their ship.

[Illustration: CAIRN HILL.]

By ten o'clock on the forenoon of the 29th, the ship was nearly
deserted, and officers and men could be seen dotting the floe and
snow-covered ranges as they wended their way to the most prominent
adjacent hills, on which little knots of men could already be seen
assembled, in order to catch a glimpse of the rising sun. We feared,
however, on starting, that we should be again disappointed, as there was
no clear sea horizon to the southward, and the sun would hardly have
sufficient altitude to show itself above the distant land. These fears
were not without foundation, as the result proved.

Shortly before noon our excitement was intense as a bright ray shot up
vertically from the sun's position and illumined the summits of the
surrounding ranges, whilst a radiant light was shed around.

  "As rays around the source of light
  Stream upward ere he glow in sight,
  And watching by his future flight
  Set the clear heavens on fire."

Our hopes grew high as noon drew near, but again were we disappointed,
and again were we compelled to return to the ship, defeated in our
object of welcoming back the "Prodigal Sun!"

The next day was cloudy, but on the following one, by going aloft about
ten o'clock, we had the satisfaction of announcing that about one-third
of the sun's disc was visible, as it crept slowly along the southern
horizon. Instantly the rigging swarmed with men, scrambling up with
elephantine agility to greet the fiery orb after its long absence, and
looking more like animated bales of furs than human beings. It appeared
of a deep reddish orange colour, but was so distorted by refraction that
its shape was more that of a truncated cone than a spherical body.

By noon Cairn Hill was covered with expectant visitors, and well were
they repaid for the trouble of the ascent. Although little of the sun
could be seen above the distant land, we knew that it was there, and
what we did see was bright, and _appeared_ with a slight stretch of the
imagination to be warm!

Romeo's words--

  "Night's candles are burnt out,
   And jocund day stands
   Tip-toe on the misty mountain tops,"

were on our lips as we beheld the beautiful colours in the northern sky.
The roseate tints blending with the violet seemed to belong more to
southern climes than to the sterile inclement regions that we were
inhabiting. The summits of the hills, the "misty mountain tops," were
bathed in its glorious rays, whilst its luminous beams danced and
glimmered along the distant ice-floes. It was a bright and glorious
sight, and we remained long admiring it, and revelling in its rays--in
fact, until warned by a peculiar sensation in our feet that the
temperature was actually 100° below freezing-point; and however ecstatic
we might feel at the reappearance of the sun, Jack Frost still reigned
supreme, exacting implicit obedience to his will, and making those who
disregarded his injunctions suffer for their heedlessness.

Undoubtedly the Arctic Regions, and the farther north the better, would
be a good place for Parsees; for none of the followers of Zoroaster
could have exhibited more anxiety for the return, and more delight at
the appearance, of their deity, than we did before and after the bright
rays of the sun first fell upon us! Their god Fire would also receive,
during the long cold Polar winter, the utmost homage and attention. Sun
and Fire worshippers would require in these regions little to stimulate
them to devotion.

Strange to say, our extreme cold came with the returning sun. During
the latter end of February the temperature had been gradually getting
lower and lower, until on the 4th of March it had fallen to -74°, or
106° below freezing-point. This was the lowest recorded by the
expedition, obtained from the mean of several thermometers, and, so far
as we could ascertain, the lowest really authentic corrected observation
that has ever been registered in any part of the globe. From noon of the
3rd until noon of the 4th the mean temperature was -69°.68, whilst the
lowest mean temperature registered for any twenty-four consecutive hours
was from four A.M. of the former until four A.M. of the last-mentioned
day -70°.31. From six P.M. on March 2nd until six A.M. of March 4th,
namely thirty-six consecutive hours, the mean temperature was as low as
-69°.93´, and for the week ending March 4th the mean temperature was
-60°!

It was amusing to observe the eager excitement with which every one
received the latest intelligence regarding the state of the thermometer,
and when it was announced that the "lowest on record" had been
registered, there was a general shout of exultation. During the intense
cold several experiments were tried by exposing various substances to
its influence, and with the following results. Glycerine, on which a
temperature of -50° had little effect, became, at -70°, perfectly solid
and quite transparent. Rectified spirits of wine became of the
consistency of hair-oil. Concentrated rum, 40° over-proof, froze hard
when exposed in a shallow vessel like a saucer, but when in a large
quantity it resembled honey or molasses in consistency. Whiskey froze
hard, and we actually broke off bits and ate it! In consequence of this
latter proceeding we have since our return to England been, not without
reason, accused of "hard drinking," an accusation we are, of course,
unable to refute! Chloroform was the only substance on which the low
temperature had no apparent effect. Our temperatures were obtained by
taking the mean of ten thermometers that were exposed, to which result
was applied the corrections from Kew for each instrument. These had been
ascertained when the instruments were tested at the Kew observatory
before leaving England. The corrections and errors of the instruments
could, of course, only be approximately ascertained after the
freezing-point of mercury had been passed, as there was nothing beyond
that with which the spirit could be compared. The slightest impurity of
the spirit used, or the presence of even the most minute portions of
extraneous matter in it, would no doubt seriously affect the accuracy of
the observation. As an instance of the range exhibited by these
instruments, it may be interesting to know that one thermometer
indicated as low a temperature as -82°, while, _at the same time_,
another showed only -60°; but by applying the errors deduced at Kew, the
result was as nearly as possible the same. I think that the minimum
temperature recorded by us was, if not absolutely correct, as nearly so
as it was possible to arrive at.

Although we never again experienced such a severe burst of cold as we
did during the first few days of March, the temperature remained
extraordinarily low, and mercury was in a frozen state during nearly the
whole of that month. The presence of the sun appeared to have little
effect on the temperature, but thermometers exposed to its rays would
frequently rise as high as zero, and sometimes above that point.

The difference of temperature at the summit and at the base of Cairn
Hill, whose height, as has been stated, was four hundred and fifty feet,
was 5½°, the thermometer rising as the hill was ascended, and falling
again as it was brought down.

Traces of ptarmigan had frequently been observed in the snow, but it was
not until the 22nd of March that the first bird was seen, although our
sportsmen had been most diligent in their search for them. On that day
two of our pedestrians succeeding in flushing one solitary ptarmigan,
but, as is usual in such cases, they were without guns. Very few of
these birds were afterwards seen in the neighbourhood of the "Alert."
Their appearance caused some little excitement, for we looked upon them
as the harbingers of spring, and as a token that our long winter had
well-nigh terminated.

On the 25th of March, there was a partial eclipse of the sun, which was
clearly visible to all those who took the trouble to go on deck and,
with a piece of smoked or coloured glass, examine it in spite of a very
low temperature. The first contact was observed at six minutes past four
in the afternoon, and the egress at six o'clock. About .65, or little
more than half the sun, was obscured.

During the middle of March the quarter-deck housing was removed, and we
were again able to enjoy daylight on the upper deck. Although the low
temperature did not yet admit of our removing the snow from the
hatchways and skylights, yet we were able to clear the tops of our cabin
illuminators, and thus obtain below a slight amount of daylight,
sufficient at any rate to obviate the necessity of incessant
candle-light during the day. It was not until the middle of May, whilst
the sledge travellers were absent, that the skylights were cleared and
the snow removed from the upper deck.

Fire is the most disastrous accident that can possibly happen to a ship
wintering in the Arctic Regions, and it should be most carefully guarded
against. It may result in having your house, together with all your
provisions, consumed, and yourselves, perhaps not burnt, but destined
for even a more terrible fate, namely, turned out on the ice without
food and without shelter, exposed to a pitiless temperature, with no
covering or protection of any description. Such a situation would prove
fatal in a few hours. Men so placed would realize the dreadful fate so
vividly and graphically described by Jules Verne as having befallen
Captain Hatteras and his companions when their ship was destroyed and
they were deserted by their shipmates.

In the "Alert" we had one alarm from fire, which, although it might have
ended disastrously, did very little injury. It originated in our
"drying-room," where, through the carelessness of the man in charge,
some of the clothes had been allowed to hang in dangerous proximity to
the stove. These igniting quickly communicated the fire to the
surrounding objects, and for a little time it was doubtful whether the
conflagration might not assume a very serious aspect. In spite of the
occurrence happening at night-time, the men exerted themselves with such
good will that the fire was speedily extinguished, with no further
damage done than the destruction of a few clothes, although it was some
time before we could rid ourselves of the smoke, which unpleasantly
permeated the whole ship. The temperature at the time was 58° below
zero, which would have rendered the work of supplying water from the
fire-hole not only a difficult, but also a dangerous task, and one which
must have resulted in many severe frost-bites.

During the latter part of the month of March the officers were employed
in dismounting the various instruments in the observatories, carefully
packing and putting them away, as most of them would not be required
again until the following winter. This was a very necessary proceeding,
as before the return of the officers from sledge travelling the
observatories with all their "fixings," such as pedestals, etc., being
composed of snow, would have melted away during the summer thaw. By the
end of the month the observatories were entirely stripped and left bare,
when they gradually fell into decay. "Woolwich" was also "unsnowed," and
the powder brought off to the ship and stowed in the magazine.

In addition to all this work, the crews of the different sledges
destined to take part in the spring campaign were, in this month of
March, specially exercised, under their respective officers, for several
hours during the day. Their regular daily exercise had also been
carefully attended to throughout the winter.

Occasionally they were employed laying out depôts of provisions to the
southward, to be used by the sledge parties proceeding northwards from
the "Discovery," or sometimes dragging their laden sledges over the pack
in the immediate vicinity of the ship, with the object of gaining
experience in crossing ridges of hummocks, and of realizing the kind of
travelling with which they were so soon to become more intimately
acquainted. These little journeys gave us an insight into the endless
difficulties that we were hereafter called upon to contend with, and the
obstacles we were destined to surmount. We foresaw that we should have
"stiffish" work before us, but we did not doubt that we should render a
good and satisfactory account of the duty entrusted to us.

After several cries of "wolf," one actually did make its appearance on
the 1st of April. Early in the morning of that day an animal had been
observed, by the quarter-master of the watch, stealthily prowling round
the ship. Supposing it to be a bear, the alarm was given and one or two
of our hunters went in chase. More would undoubtedly have followed their
example, but recollecting the day, they preferred remaining in their
warm beds for an hour longer to the risk of being informed, when they
came on deck fully equipped for the chase, that it was the 1st of April!

The traces left in the snow showed unmistakeably the character of our
visitor. Instead of being a bear, it proved to be a wolf, but so alarmed
was it at the disturbance made on board that it scampered over the hills
and eluded our pursuit. That same afternoon, however, accompanied by my
usual companion Nellie, I took a long walk to the southward, following
the trail of the wolf for some distance. On my return, and when about
two miles and a half from the ship, I happened to look round, and there,
about a hundred yards off, and following in my track, was a tall, gaunt,
raw-boned and famished-looking wolf. He was of a yellowish colour, and
in size larger than our biggest Eskimo dog. Of course, as is generally
the way in cases of this sort, I was totally unprovided with arms of
any description, and was therefore unable to add his skin to our natural
history collection. I cannot say whether Nellie or her master offered
the greatest attraction to this animal; but whichever it might be, he
followed us, sometimes at not more than ten yards distance, stopping if
we stopped, and advancing when we advanced, until we were within about
half a mile from the ship, when some of my messmates coming out to meet
me, he bolted over the hills and made his escape. My great anxiety at
the time was for my poor old Nellie, who showed a great inclination to
become better acquainted with the wolf, and I had the utmost difficulty
in restraining her. Whenever she strayed a little from my heel, the
brute would make a bolt at her, and I have little doubt that she would
have been killed if he had once succeeded in his endeavours. On the same
evening we discovered the tracks of four musk-oxen, but although we
followed them up for many miles we did not succeed in seeing them. The
fact of the latter being in our neighbourhood fully accounted for the
presence of the wolf, who was no doubt following their tracks.




CHAPTER XIX.

DETAILS OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING.


  "Give me some ink and paper in my tent,
   I'll draw the form and model of our battle:
   Limit each leader to his several charge,
   And put in just proportions our small force."

     _Richard III._

[Illustration: SLEDGE UNDER SAIL.]

Hitherto I have purposely abstained from alluding to our spring
operations, as I thought that it would be better to devote a separate
chapter exclusively to the account of the details of sledge equipment.
But it must not be supposed, because I have omitted to say anything
about the sledging during the winter, that it was neglected, and that
our time was entirely occupied with our amusements and observatory
duties. Such was not the case. The preparations for the spring campaign
and the organization of our sledge parties in all its details were very
carefully thought over and matured during the long dark hours of the
winter. All works on this subject had been diligently read, in order
that we might benefit by the experience of our predecessors. Nothing was
neglected that could in any way conduce to the success of the
enterprise, and everything that could possibly add to the health and
comfort of those to be employed on work of such an arduous nature was
carefully considered. The sledges, tents, and other equipments necessary
for travelling had been constructed under the personal superintendence
of Sir Leopold McClintock, who is the highest living authority on Arctic
sledge travelling. A few alterations, which we trusted would also be
improvements, were suggested by the experience gained during the autumn,
and these were all carried out before the return of the sun. The results
justified our anticipations. Out of the four different kinds of sledges
supplied to the expedition those which found most favour with us, and
with which the greatest part of the work was done, were the eight-men
sledges.[1] These dragged easier, and were stronger than either the
smaller or larger description of sledges. So long as the travelling
remains good, that is smooth and level ice with hard snow on its
surface, these sledges may be loaded to 240 lbs. for each man to drag,
and a good day's work to be accomplished. This weight, of course, would
only be dragged on first leaving the ship, or a depôt, and decreases at
the rate of about 3 lbs. per man per diem, the amount of provisions
consumed by each individual. What are called the "constant" weights,
which include the sledge, tent, robes, cooking apparatus, pickaxe,
shovel, etc., remain unaltered during the journey. The question of
weight is one requiring the closest attention.

Every trifling article, even to a small packet of a _dozen pins_ placed
in the medicine chest, has to be weighed and recorded in the general
equipment. The following table shows the weight of the various articles
(being constant weights) required for the equipment of an Arctic sledge
for forty-five days:--

EQUIPMENT OF AN EIGHT-MEN SLEDGE, PROVISIONED FOR AN ABSENCE OF
FORTY-FIVE DAYS.

                                              lb.  oz.
  Sledge (complete)                           130   0
  Tent (complete)                              44   0
  Tent poles, five in number                   25   0
  Coverlet                                     31   8
  Extra coverlet (used only in cold weather)   20   0
  Lower robe                                   23   0
  Waterproof floor-cloth                       15   0
  Sail                                          9   4
  Eight sleeping bags                          64   0
  Eight knapsacks (packed)                     96   0
  Two pickaxes                                 14   8
  Shovel                                        6   8
  Store bag                                    25   0
  Cooking gear                                 29   0
  Gun and ammunition                           25   0
  Medical stores                               12   0
  Instruments                                  15   0
                                              -------
                   Constant weights           584  12
  Forty-five days' provisions for eight men
  (including packages)                       1080   0
                                             --------
                               Total         1664  12

which, dragged by seven men, is equivalent to about 238 lbs. per man to
drag.

This should never be exceeded, nor should it even be kept up for any
length of time.

It will thus be seen that it is impossible for a sledge party to be
absent from the ship for more than seven weeks, at the outside, on its
own resources. In order, therefore, to enable it to remain away for a
longer period, depôts of provisions are established during the autumn on
the line of route, and auxiliary sledges are despatched in the spring
from which the extended parties may be replenished with provisions after
they have been away from the ship some two or three weeks. These
auxiliary sledges, on their return, are again completed with provisions
and sent out to meet the extended parties on their way back. By these
means, a sledging party may remain away for as long as twelve or
thirteen weeks.

Depôts can only be laid out when there is a continuous coast line, and
under circumstances when a _cache_ containing provisions can easily be
discovered. When the frozen ocean has to be traversed, depôts cannot be
depended upon; for a movement of the ice, or the misfortune of wandering
off the outward bound track during thick weather, would deprive the
travellers of any chance of finding their supplies. The result in such a
case would probably be fatal. The only way of ensuring an extended
absence to a party sledging over the pack, is by sending with it an
additional sledge. This, of course, entails the necessity of traversing
the same road three times over. For the men must never under any
circumstances (other than unavoidable necessity, caused by the sickness
of some of the crew) be allowed to drag more than the outside weight of
240 lbs. at any one time.

It would, I think, and I am now speaking from experience, be preferable,
when such a journey is necessary, to send a sledge away for only six
weeks rather than to provision a party for three months, and compel the
men to undergo the monotonous and wearisome work of going over the same
ground so often; and, I believe, quite as much work would be
accomplished.

The tents were all made of the lightest duck,[2] which was sufficient
to protect us from the falling or drifting snow, and the keen cutting
wind. The space inside was, of necessity, very limited; the width in
which each man had to sleep being only fourteen inches. Whilst his head
was touching one side of the tent, his feet were in contact with the
other. The slightest movement of the sleeper during the night would
disturb his neighbours on either side.

The entrance to the tent had a porch attached to it, which was, of
course, always carefully closed, and served to exclude the fine
snow-drift that would otherwise have penetrated into the interior. The
opposite side of the tent was fitted in a similar manner for the
protection of the cook whilst engaged in preparing the meals. The duties
of the cook during intensely cold weather entail hardships which it is
scarcely possible to overrate. The poor cook is never in his sleeping
bag until two or three hours after the rest of the party have been
comfortably settled for the night, and he has always to rise in the
morning a couple of hours before his comrades are disturbed, and this
after a hard and fatiguing day's work. His cooking apparatus consists of
a spirit lamp, a stearine lamp, a kettle, and a stew-pan. His fuel is
either spirits of wine, or cocoa-nut stearine; and as the allowance of
either is strictly limited, he has to be as economical as he possibly
can. Should his fuel be consumed before the meal is cooked, he will get
no more, and the pemmican will have to be eaten in a semi-frozen state.
The odour and smoke emitted by the stearine can only be appreciated by
those who have served their apprenticeship as cooks to an Arctic sledge
party! Many experiments were tried during the winter to improve our
cooking apparatus, but few were attended with success. Mr. White devoted
a good deal of thought and time to this important matter. By introducing
a cone into the kettle and stew-pan he succeeded in gaining a decided
advantage in rapidity of cooking, but then his plan also had its
disadvantages, a difficulty of cleaning and an encroachment on valuable
space being the chief objections to it. By giving the bottom of the pans
and kettles a little more concavity, we gained a slight advantage in
point of time, and time in cooking also means an economy of fuel. The
tent robes, coverlets, and sleeping bags were all made of duffel. The
knapsacks were made of duck, and contained the only spare clothing that
each man was allowed to take. The contents consisted of two pairs of
blanket wrappers, one pair of wadmill hose, one pair of moccasins, a
skull-cap for sleeping in, a woollen cap presented to each person in the
expedition by H.I.M. the Empress Eugénie, two pairs of mitts, a flannel
shirt, a pair of drawers, a comforter, a pair of snow-spectacles, a
towel, and a piece of soap. The latter was rather a superfluous article
until the thaw set in.

The store bag contained the pemmican chopper and board, a snow-knife and
saw, some spare lashings of hide for the sledge, matches, slow match,
twine, and various other small and useful articles.

The scale of provisions to be used whilst sledging was almost identical
with that of preceding expeditions, the only difference being that we
reduced the allowance of spirits by half and doubled the amount of tea
and sugar. The following was the daily ration for each man:--

                                lb. oz.
  Pemmican                       1   0
  Bacon                          0   4
  Biscuit                        0  14
  Preserved potatoes             0   2
  Chocolate                      0   1
  Sugar for ditto                0   0.5
  Tea for two meals              0   0.5
  Sugar for ditto                0   1.5
  Salt                           0   0.25
  Pepper                         0   0.05
  Onion powder or curry paste    0   0.125
  Rum                            0   2
  Spirits of wine                0   2
  Stearine                       0   3
  Tobacco (weekly)               0   3.5

This we found a very ample allowance, and one that could not, in my
opinion, be improved upon. The different articles were excellent of
their kind, and of very superior quality.

Since our return to England, fault has been found with our leader
because lime-juice was not included in the scale of dietary for the
sledges, during April, as a daily ration. Our scale of diet was
necessarily based on that of preceding expeditions, and we had no reason
to expect that we should suffer from that dread disease, scurvy, any
more than did our predecessors. Lime-juice had never before been taken
as a daily ration by an extended sledge party, and Sir Leopold
McClintock, the highest living authority, has since publicly declared
that, in following the precedents established by former experience as
regards the lime-juice, Sir George Nares acted exactly as he would have
done under the same circumstances. Moreover, the lime-juice was
supplied in a form that made it impossible to use during an Arctic
March, April, or May, away from the ship. It was in bottles or very
large heavy jars, and, of course, the moment such vessels were placed
near a fire to thaw their contents, in such a temperature, they would
have been cracked to pieces. This is a conclusive answer to those who,
without experience, and ignorant of the conditions under which we
travelled, have expressed opinions on this subject. After May, when it
was possible to use it, lime-juice was always taken by our sledge
parties as a daily ration. When we came home, the use was suggested of
lime-juice lozenges, and the Medical Director General has proposed that
lime-juice should be mixed with pemmican. It is certainly very much to
be regretted that some such arrangements were not made and carried out
before the expedition left England. It will be seen (if lime-juice would
really have prevented the attack of scurvy) how terribly we had to
suffer from the consequences of the omission.

Lieutenant Parr and myself each took two bottles of lime-juice, with the
intention of using it when the warm weather of June arrived. It was not
possible to use it to any advantage, hard frozen in a bottle, during
March, April, or May.

Dr. Colan drew up very careful medical instructions for the commanders
of sledges, and each received some elementary surgical instruction. The
doctor also paid most anxious attention to the contents of the medical
chest, the weight of which was not allowed to exceed 12 lbs.[3]

The clothing worn by the men engaged in the sledging operations was
somewhat different from that in use during the winter. Our under
clothing was made of thick flannel. Over this we wore one or two flannel
or check shirts, long sleeved woollen waist-coats, thick knitted
guernseys, and duffel trousers, the latter reaching about a foot below
the knee. All wore broad flannel belts, commonly called cholera belts,
round their loins. On our heads we had woollen helmet caps, called by
the men "Eugenies," and over this was worn a thick sealskin cap with ear
and neck flaps attached.

Our feet were encased in blanket wrappers, one or two pairs according to
the temperature, a pair of thick woollen hose reaching above the knees
and worn over the trousers, and moccasins. The latter, as supplied to
us, only came up round the ankle, so we fitted them with leggings. Those
who were provided with chamois leather made their leggings of that
material, but the majority cut the sleeves off their check shirts which,
when sewn on to the moccasin, answered admirably, their chief use being
to keep the snow from penetrating into the trousers. Some of the
moccasins were also soled with leather, obtained by cutting off the
upper part of the fishermen's boots, a pair of which had been supplied
to each person. As a rule these soles were quickly worn out, and the men
were soon reduced to the bare moccasin, which, however, lasted
wonderfully.

Large gauntlet mitts were made during the winter, of fearnought covered
with duck, and worn with a strap round the neck. These were only
supplied to the sledgers, and were found very useful. At night-time they
were used on the feet in the sleeping bags, and certainly assisted very
materially in keeping them warm. Finally each person was provided with a
suit of duck overalls, to act as "snow repellers," which were always
worn whilst on the march. As an extra precaution against snow-blindness,
the men were ordered to paint some device on the backs of these snow
jumpers in order to afford a certain amount of relief to the eyes of
their comrades. The designs of these devices or crests were left
entirely to the artistic imaginations of the men, and they caused a good
deal of merriment. They were certainly more quaint than elegant. Donkeys
and Polar bears in various wonderful positions appeared to be in the
greatest favour. Each crest was accompanied by a motto, invariably a
Latin one. Whether these devices relieved us from severe attacks of
snow-blindness or not it would be difficult to decide. They served at
any rate to amuse us, and often formed the topic of conversation when
other subjects were getting scarce. Snow-spectacles were invariably used
by the travellers, and were only taken off after the party had halted
for the night and had sought the shelter of their tent. In consequence
of the adoption of these snow-goggles when we first set out on our
travels, we were comparatively exempt from that painful disease,
snow-blindness, from which other expeditions have more or less suffered,
and which renders the patient so attacked utterly helpless. We
occasionally had a few cases, but with one or two exceptions they were
in a very mild form.

Such were the details of the general equipment of the sledging parties
that were despatched from the "Alert" in the spring of 1876. Officers
and men shared alike in everything; they had the same provisions, their
costume was identical, they shared the same couch and tent, and each
showed the same zealous desire to perform his duty, and the same eager
anxiety to bring to a successful issue the service on which they were
employed.

Although the whole of the available force on board the "Alert" was
engaged in the sledging operations of the spring, we were only able to
despatch _two_ extended parties.[4] The rest of the men and sledges were
required to act as auxiliaries to the advanced parties, and were
continually employed during the summer until the return of all the
travellers brought our sledging operations to a conclusion.

The programme to be carried out, and which was determined upon after
very mature and careful deliberation, was for one party, the command of
which was given to Aldrich the first lieutenant, to continue the
discoveries of the autumn by exploring the coast line to the westward;
whilst a larger party, which was entrusted to my conduct, was to push
across the rugged polar pack, and endeavour to reach as high a northern
latitude as possible. The exploration of the north side of Greenland, to
the eastward, and the examination of the fiords in Robeson Channel, were
left to the sledge parties from the "Discovery."

The difficulties to be encountered and the serious obstacles to be
overcome in the journey due north over the frozen sea were well
understood. We had made ourselves acquainted with the nature of the
travelling to be anticipated by various short excursions on the ice in
the vicinity of the ship, and were, therefore, fully aware of the
serious character of the work that was before us. None were so rash as
to indulge in any extravagant ideas of successfully reaching a very high
position. The parallel of 84°, or perhaps 85° by the more sanguine, was
regarded as the highest that could possibly be attained.

It was a well-known fact, before the ship went into winter quarters,
that the polar pack, composed of extraordinarily heavy ice, was in
motion at that season. This motion, or perhaps a general disruption,
would occur, it was calculated, in about July or August, possibly in
June. It was, therefore, not only a measure of prudence, but one of
absolute necessity, that the party destined to travel over this frozen
ocean should be provided with the means of safety to themselves, if a
disruption should take place at an earlier period than was anticipated.
It was therefore decided that two boats,[5] capable of conveying the
whole party from one floe to another, should form part of the equipment
of the northern division. This additional weight, of course, seriously
augmented the labour of the men.

The only previous attempt to advance over a frozen sea, away from the
land, was made by Sir Edward Parry, in his memorable journey towards the
North Pole in 1827.[6]

For reasons already stated, the northern party was unable to lay out
depôts on the ice, nor could our sledges be met by supporting sledges
until after their return to the land. It therefore became necessary that
they should carry with them sufficient provisions to last for the whole
time of anticipated absence. This, with the boats, obliged the two
sledge crews composing the division to take with them a _third_ sledge,
so that under the most favourable conditions of travelling, they would
be compelled, after advancing two sledges, to return over the same road
and drag on the third. This we fondly hoped on starting we should be
able to accomplish; little did we think that the fearfully rugged nature
of the road would necessitate the same distance being traversed five or
even seven times.

For the same reason that the men were ordered to emblazon arms and
crests on the backs of their clothes, we had the boats which were to
accompany the sledges painted with gay and brilliant devices. The rose,
shamrock, and thistle were painted on the hulls, and the royal arms
decorated their sterns. Moss, on this as on other occasions, was the
artist; his great difficulty in accomplishing the work being that in
spite of the quantity of turpentine with which the paint was mixed, it
persisted in freezing in the brush, rendering that article more like a
stick than an artist's pencil.

The sledges were, of course, all named by their commanders.


FOOTNOTES:

  [1] The eight-men sledge has six uprights eighteen inches apart. It
    is eleven feet long, three feet two inches wide, eleven inches high,
    and weighs 130 lbs. complete. In former expeditions sails were
    frequently used on the sledges to great advantage, when travelling
    over smooth ice. But we were seldom so fortunate as to meet with ice
    which was suitable for sailing, in any of our sledge journeys. May
    and Egerton got their sledges under sail on an extensive floe in
    Robeson Channel, when they crossed over to the Greenland side; but as
    a rule the ice we met with was far too rough to make the use of sails
    practicable. In rigging a sail on the sledge two tent poles are
    lashed together as a yard, with a spare pole as a foot yard. The
    other two tent poles are used as shears, and at their ends a
    mast-head iron, or shear head, is fitted, consisting of two rings
    united by a piece of iron about three inches long, from the centre of
    which there is a hook on each side for the steadying guys, and a
    small block for the halyards is seized on to the iron between the
    rings. A spare cross-bar is placed on the top of the lading, over the
    midship uprights, and lashed down to the bearer. It is fitted with a
    span seized along its top-side, and the bights, with a thimble in
    each, project just beyond the cross-bar. The ends of the shears are
    then stepped into the thimbles attached to this cross-bar, and the
    sail hoisted. On smooth ice, with the wind aft or on the quarter, a
    sledge will travel under sail at a good pace. But smooth ice was
    almost unknown in the region explored by our expedition.

  [2] The tents were of light, close, unbleached duck. The eight-men
    tents were nine feet four inches long at the bottom, and eight feet
    at the top, seven feet wide and high, and weighed 44 lbs. The tent
    ropes are six fathoms long of one and a quarter inch, and the tent
    poles eight feet six inches long.

  [3] The medical stores for each sledge were:--2 phials of sal
    volatile and aromatic spirits of ammonia; 2 phials of laudanum; 2
    phials of wine of opium; a small tin of Gregory's powders; 12 papers
    (10 grains each) of Dover's powders; 32 papers (15 grains each) of
    chalk powders; 30 papers (4 grains each) of sugar of lead; a bottle
    of turpentine liniment; a phial of carbolic acid; glycerine ointment;
    white ointment; carbolic plaster; 4 dozen purgative pills; oil silk.
    Sponge, pins, expanding splints, and carbolized tow, cotton wool, a
    catheter, a tourniquet, a truss with pad, a lancet, twill, Persian
    gauze, 2 eye shades, small splint, scissors, flannel ice goggles,
    tape, mustard, 3 calico bandages, 2 flannel bandages, and lint. These
    stores were in a wooden case, and a medicine tin for bottles,
    together weighing 4 lbs.; while their contents weighed 7 lbs. 11
    ozs., together, 12 lbs.

  [4] Our available force was much smaller than that of the expeditions
    under Sir Horatio Austin (1850-51), and Sir Henry Kellet (1852-54).
    They enjoyed the great advantage of having a third larger
    force--ninety instead of sixty men.

  [5] The sledges for carrying boats have the two end cross-bars fitted
    with two cleats, one on each side of the boat's keel. These cleats
    are seven inches long, and are securely lashed to the cross-bars. Two
    battens of American elm, each two inches wide and half an inch thick,
    are lashed in a fore and aft direction to the top of the cross-bars
    three and a half inches apart, that is to say one and three-quarters
    inch on each side of the central bearer. They are sufficiently long
    to allow of being secured to all the cross-bars. When the boat is
    placed on the sledge the keel rests on the cross-bars between the
    cleats, and is held in an upright position by one long cushion of
    stout canvas, stuffed with cork cuttings, on each side, and these are
    kept in their places by lashings.

  [6] As Sir Edward Parry's attempt to reach the Pole was the only
    extended journey that was ever undertaken due north across the Polar
    Sea, until the second attempt was made by the northern division of
    sledges under my command, it will be well to give, in this place, the
    details of Parry's equipment and the result of his expedition.

    A Sir Edward Parry sailed from England in the "Hecla," on April 3rd,
    1827; when placing her in a safe harbour on the north coast of
    Spitzbergen, he commenced his memorable attempt to reach the Pole on
    June 21st. He had two boats, the "Enterprise" and the "Endeavour."
    Parry himself, with Mr. Beverley, was in the former, James Ross and
    Edward Bird in the latter. Ten seamen and two marines formed the crew
    of each boat. The boats were flat-bottomed, with the extreme breadth
    of seven feet, carried well forward and aft, and twenty feet long,
    the timbers of tough ash and hickory. On the outside frame a system
    of planking was adopted with a view to securing elasticity in the
    frequent concussions with the ice. This consisted of a covering of
    waterproof canvas coated with tar, then a thin fir plank, then a
    sheet of felt, and, lastly, a thin oak plank, all secured to the
    timbers by iron screws. On each side of the keel there was a strong
    runner shod with metal, like that of a sledge, on which the boats
    entirely rested when on the ice. A hide span across the fore-part of
    the runners had two horse-hair drag ropes attached to it. The boats
    had two thwarts, a locker at each end, a light framework along the
    sides for containing provisions and spare clothes, a bamboo mast, and
    tanned duck sail, fourteen paddles, and a steer oar. They started
    with seventy-one days' provisions. The weight of each boat was 1,539
    lbs., and the total weight, with provisions, 3,753 lbs., or 268 lbs.
    per man; besides four light taboggan sledges weighing 26 lbs. each.
    The daily allowance for each man was 10 ozs. of biscuit, 9 ozs. of
    pemmican, 1 oz. of cocoa, and 1 gill of rum. Parry took no
    lime-juice. They slept in the boat with sails as awnings, and
    travelled during the night.

    They sailed in the boats until June 23rd, when it became necessary to
    haul them on the ice in 81° 12´ 51´´ N. The actual travelling then
    began over floes of small extent, intersected by hummocks. After a
    journey of thirty days, Parry reached his most northern point on July
    23rd, in latitude, by dead reckoning, 82° 45´ N. No actual
    observation for latitude was obtained at their extreme northern
    point. They had travelled ninety-two miles over the ice, and two
    hundred in the boats before they hauled them on to the floe, but were
    only one hundred and seventy-two miles from the "Hecla." Such had
    been the drift of the floes to the southward. The boats returned to
    the "Hecla" on August 21st, and Parry arrived in England again on
    October 6th.

    This journey was made in the middle of summer after the disruption of
    the ice. The daily allowance of food for the men was insufficient,
    and the weight of 26 lbs. for each man was too great. But these were
    points which could only be learnt by experience, and Sir Edward Parry
    was the pioneer of Arctic sledge travelling. He attained the highest
    northern latitude ever before reached by man, and it was forty-eight
    years and two months before any explorer succeeded in going beyond
    the parallel which Parry reached in 1827.




CHAPTER XX.

THE JOURNEY OF EGERTON AND RAWSON.


  "You were used to say,
   Extremity was the trier of spirits,
   That common chances common men could bear,
   That when the sea was calm, all boats alike
   Showed mastership in floating."

     SHAKESPEARE.

It was a part of Captain Nares's scheme for the spring campaign that,
before the departure of the extended parties, a dog sledge should be
despatched to communicate with our consort wintering some fifty miles to
the southward of us.

The officers and men of the "Discovery" were, of course, in total
ignorance of our position and even of our safety, for no communication
had taken place between the two ships since the day of our departure
from Discovery Harbour, seven months before. As soon as there was
sufficient light to admit of travelling, the important and necessary
duty had to be undertaken of conveying information to her respecting our
position, so that the anxiety of her people concerning our safety might
be relieved, and also that the Captain of the "Discovery" might be made
acquainted with our intentions regarding the routes of exploration
allotted to our sledge travellers. The parties from the "Discovery"
would then adopt other routes, and thus the area of unknown country to
he explored would be extended to the utmost limit possible. The work of
the expedition, consisting of the journeys of the different parties from
the two ships, taking different routes, would thus embrace all that
human effort could achieve with the means provided.

[Illustration: DOGS AND SLEDGE.]

The duty of communicating with the "Discovery" was entrusted to Egerton;
and Rawson, who was naturally desirous of re-visiting his ship, was
allowed to accompany him. Their sledge was dragged by a team of nine
dogs, and the party was provisioned and equipped for an absence of ten
days. If they failed in accomplishing their object in that time, and
their supplies became exhausted, they could replenish their stock from
the large depôt that had been established during the previous autumn at
a point about midway between the two ships, in Lincoln Bay. Petersen,
the Danish interpreter, accompanied the two officers in the capacity of
dog driver.

In consequence of the very low temperature experienced during the first
week in March, their time of departure had to be deferred. Sunday, the
12th of March, was the day eventually selected for the start of this the
first sledging expedition of the season.

The temperature on that morning was low, but rose gradually towards
noon, until it seemed inclined to remain stationary at 30° below zero.

There were further indications of a continuance of fine weather, from
the day being bright and clear and the barometer steady. Letters to our
friends on board the "Discovery" were hastily finished. Immediately
divine service had been performed the colours were hoisted, and amidst
the cheers of "all hands," who had assembled on the floe to bid the
travellers God speed, H.M. sledge "Clements Markham," with its bright
standard fluttering out bravely before a light breeze, started with the
object of renewing intercourse with our comrades in the "Discovery."

For the next two or three days our thoughts on board were constantly
with the absent ones, especially as the temperature, shortly after their
departure, had again fallen very low. This, however, caused us little
uneasiness, for we knew that everything that lay in our power had been
done to protect them from any sudden and extreme cold, and we all had
the greatest confidence in the skill, discretion, and sound judgment of
our two messmates. Many a silent prayer was offered up in their behalf,
that they might accomplish their mission in safety, and return speedily
with good news of those who, like ourselves, were wintering in the ice.

On the third day they returned unexpectedly with a sad tale of woe and
suffering, and with the poor Dane utterly prostrate and helpless on the
sledge. I cannot do better than relate the sad story in Lieutenant
Egerton's own words.

We read in his official report, that not five hours after they had left
the ship "frost-bites became so numerous, that I thought it advisable to
encamp."

This was only the beginning of the story, for they appear to have passed
a comparatively comfortable night.

At any rate they were up early the next morning and again under weigh;
at about one o'clock, when they halted for lunch, Petersen complained of
cramp in his stomach and was given some hot tea. He had no appetite,
which perhaps was as well, for we read of the bacon, which is always
used for lunch, "We were unable to eat it, being frozen so hard that we
could not get our teeth through the lean." They still continued their
journey, encountering some very rough travelling, which necessitated
severe physical labour on the part of the two officers. "The dogs were
of little or no use in getting across these slopes, as it was impossible
to get them to go up the cliff, and Petersen being unable to work,
Lieutenant Rawson and I had to get the sledge along as best we could."
Towards the end of the day we read: "Petersen began to get rather worse,
and was shivering all over, his nose being constantly frost-bitten, and
at times taking five or ten minutes before the circulation could be
thoroughly restored. Lieutenant Rawson had several small frost-bites,
and I escaped with only one."

On halting for the night, directly the tent was pitched they sent
Petersen inside with strict injunctions to shift his foot gear and get
into his sleeping-bag, whilst they busied themselves in preparing supper
and attending to the dogs; but when they entered the tent, they found
"that he had turned in without shifting his foot gear, was groaning a
good deal, and complaining of cramp in the stomach and legs."

Having made him change, they gave him some tea, and then administered a
few drops of sal volatile, which appeared to give the poor fellow a
little ease.

The next morning the wind was so high and their patient in such a weak
state that they did not think it prudent to attempt a start. He had
passed a very restless night, and still complained very much of cramp.

Later in the day he appeared to get worse, "shaking and shivering all
over and breathing in short gasps. His face, hands, and feet were all
frost-bitten, the latter severely, and he had pains in his side as
well." After restoring the circulation they rubbed him with warm
flannels and placed one of their comforters round his stomach.

In such a wretched state was the poor fellow that they agreed it would
endanger his life if they proceeded on their journey; and that when the
weather moderated the only course they could pursue was to return with
all haste to their ship.

As it was impossible to keep their patient warm in the tent, these two
young officers burrowed a hole in a snow-drift, and into this cavity
they transported the sick man, themselves, and all their tent robes,
closing the aperture by placing over it the tent and sledge. They
deprived themselves of their own clothing for the benefit of the
invalid, whose frozen feet they actually placed inside their clothes in
direct contact with their bodies, until their own heat was extracted and
they were themselves severely frost-bitten in various parts. The poor
fellow was now in a very low state; he could retain neither food nor
liquid. "About 6 P.M. he was very bad; this time worse than before.
There appeared to be no heat in him of any kind whatever, and he had
acute pains in the stomach and back. We chafed him on the stomach,
hands, face, and feet, and when he got better wrapped him up in
everything warm we could lay our hands upon," namely, their own
clothing, which they could ill afford to lose; but they entirely forgot
their own condition in their endeavours to ameliorate that of their
comrade. Lighting their spirit lamp and carefully closing every crevice
by which the cold air could enter, they succeeded in raising the
temperature of the interior to 7°; but "the atmosphere in the hut became
somewhat thick!" This was, however, preferable to the intense cold. Let
us follow the story out, and learn how nobly these two officers tended
their sick and suffering companion. "We were constantly asking if he was
warm in his feet and hands, to which he replied in the affirmative; but
before making him comfortable" (fancy being _comfortable_ under such
circumstances!) "for the night, we examined his feet, and found them
both perfectly gelid and hard from the toes to the ankle, his hands
nearly as bad. So each taking a foot we set to work to warm them with
our hands and flannels, as each hand and flannel got cold _warming them
about our persons_, and also lit up the spirit lamp. In about two hours
we got his feet to, and put them in warm foot gear, cut his bag down to
allow him more room to move in, and then wrapped him up in the spare
coverlet. His hands we also brought round and bound them up in flannel
wrappers, with mitts over all. Gave him some warm tea and a little rum
and water, which he threw up. Shortly after I found him eating snow,
which we had strictly forbidden once or twice before. In endeavouring to
do this again during the night, he dragged his feet out of the covering;
but only a few minutes could have elapsed before this was detected by
Lieutenant Rawson, who, upon examining his feet, found them in much the
same state as before. We rubbed and chafed them again for over an hour,
and when circulation was restored wrapped him up again, and so passed
the third night."

The patience and endurance of the two officers are beyond all praise. It
is difficult to realize the misery of that night. Wearied with the
severe physical exertions of the two previous days, having their own
meals to prepare and the dogs to look after, they had to pass a
sleepless and anxious night in their endeavours to keep life in the body
of their half-frozen comrade.

On the following morning Petersen appeared to be slightly better, so
thinking it was preferable to run the risk of taking him back as he was,
than to pass such another night as the last, they put him on the sledge,
and, having hurriedly eaten their breakfast, they started for the ship
with all despatch. They had a rough journey before them of eighteen
miles; but they knew it was a case of life and death, and they
encouraged the dogs to their utmost speed. The dogs, being homeward
bound, were willing enough and needed little persuasion, so that, for a
time, they rattled along at a good pace. But actual progress could not
have been very rapid, for we read in Egerton's report that the patient's
"circulation was so feeble that his face and hands were constantly
frost-bitten, entailing frequent stoppages whilst we endeavoured to
restore the affected parts." The difficulties of the homeward journey
may be gathered from the following extracts: "On arriving at the Black
Cape we had to take the patient off the sledge, and while one assisted
him round, the other kept the dogs back, for by this time they knew they
were homeward bound, and required no small amount of trouble to hold in.
After getting the sledge round and restoring Petersen's hands and nose
(which were almost as bad again a few minutes after), and securing him
on the sledge, we again set off. At the next cape the same difficulties
were experienced, in fact rather more, for the sledge took charge down a
'ditch,'[1] about twenty-five feet deep, turning right over three times
in its descent, and out of which we had to drag it, and while clearing
harness (which employed us both, one to stand in front of the dogs with
the whip, while the other cleared the lines), the dogs made a sudden
bolt past Lieutenant Rawson, who was in front with the whip, and dragged
me more than a hundred yards before we could stop them. At length, after
the usual process with Petersen (that of thawing his hands and nose,
which we did every time we cleared harness, or it was actually necessary
to stop), we got away, thankful that our troubles were over. The dogs
got their harness into a dreadful entanglement in their excitement to
get home; but we were afraid to clear them lest they should break away
from us, or cause us any delay, as we were both naturally anxious to
return with the utmost speed to the ship, and so relieve ourselves of
the serious responsibility occasioned by the very precarious state in
which our patient was lying. Upon arriving alongside at 6.30 P.M., we
were very thankful that Petersen was able to answer us when we informed
him he was at home."

Poor fellow! it was the last home he ever reached alive, for in two
short months his remains were carried from the ship and laid in their
last resting-place in this world, on the summit of a low hill
overlooking the scene of his last sledge journey! In conclusion, Egerton
says, "I regret exceedingly that I have been compelled to return to the
ship without having accomplished my journey to H.M.S. 'Discovery;' but I
trust that what I have done will meet with your approval, and that the
course I adopted may be the means of having lessened the very serious
and distressing condition of Petersen." Gallant fellow! of course his
doings meet not only with the approval but the admiration of all
Englishmen who take pride in the noble and heroic deeds of their
countrymen. The work of these two brave young officers on this occasion
stands out conspicuously amongst the many deeds of daring and devotion
with which the annals of Arctic adventure abound.

It must be remembered that during the time they were away the sun had
only just made its reappearance, and was therefore at a very low
altitude, so that little benefit could be derived from its rays; and it
only afforded sufficient light to enable the travellers to keep on the
march for about eight or nine hours a day.[2] On the 20th of March, five
days after the return from their calamitous journey, the same two
officers made another and a more successful start. On this occasion they
were accompanied by a couple of sailors, and their sledge was dragged by
a team of seven dogs. In five days, after a severe and toilsome journey,
rendered doubly so by the extreme cold and the heavy nature of the road
over which they had to travel, they reached the "Discovery," conveying
to her officers and crew the pleasing intelligence of our safety, and
receiving in return an account of the happy winter passed by them.

Poor Petersen never recovered from the effects of this journey. He
rallied a little after he arrived on board, and was placed under the
tender and skilful treatment of Dr. Colan, who for some time held out
slight hopes of his recovery; but the injuries he had received were of
too serious a nature to admit of much hope, and he gradually sank until
he expired peacefully on the 14th of May. Perhaps it was better that it
should be so, for the poor fellow would not only have been disfigured by
losing portions of his nose and ears, but he would also have been a
cripple, for the doctor had been compelled to amputate both his feet in
order to stop the mortification from extending. These frost-bites are
indeed very dreadful, and must always be quickly taken in hand so as to
avoid any serious result.

So cold were the frozen limbs of poor Petersen, that his companions said
it was like touching cold steel, and produced frost-bite almost as
rapidly as if they were really touching a piece of metal!

Although this chapter is rather a mournful one, and has a very
melancholy termination, I make no apology for having devoted it entirely
to our first sledging expedition of the season, believing that my
readers will feel both pride and pleasure in hearing of the noble
conduct of my two messmates.


FOOTNOTES:

  [1] By a "ditch" is meant a hollow formed between a high snow-drift
    and a hummock or any projection. Some of these ditches were very
    steep and precipitous.

  [2] In previous expeditions parties have left their ships in March;
    but the March of 75° N. is very different from the March of 82° N. In
    the former position the sun has been many days longer above the
    horizon than in 82° N.




CHAPTER XXI.

THE ROUTINE OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING.


              "We are well persuaded
  We carry not a heart with us from hence
  That grows not in a fair consent with ours;
  Nor leave not one behind, that doth not wish
  Success and conquest to attend on us."

    _Henry V._

On the morning of Monday, the 3rd of April, an unwonted bustle and
excitement on board and around the "Alert" betokened that something
unusual was taking place. Men in their travelling costumes might have
been observed busily engaged in adding the last finishing touches to the
already well-packed sledges. Officers, also in travelling attire, were
carefully conveying delicate instruments from the ship to the row of
sledges drawn up in "line of battle" on the floe, whilst the white
ensign flying from the peak bore witness of some important event.

The day was indeed one of memorable import, for it was the one that we
had all, during the long dark winter, looked forward to as that on which
our real work was to commence. It was the day on which we were to start
forth with the object of achieving all that was possible with the means
at our disposal, in the great and glorious work of increasing the stock
of geographical knowledge respecting the Polar regions. No wonder,
then, that the scene of our winter quarters presented an animated and
unwonted appearance on that bright but intensely cold morning.

The sledges, seven in number, on two of which were placed the boats to
accompany the northern division, were drawn up in single line, one
before the other, according to the seniority of their respective
leaders. They were all fully equipped and provisioned, and were "manned"
by a force of fifty-three officers and men; a chosen band, eager to
emulate the deeds of their predecessors, and willing to risk their lives
in bringing to a successful issue the task they had resolved to
accomplish.

A strict medical examination had been held a day or two previously, and
the rather unnecessary question, "Do you feel yourself fit and able in
every way to go sledging?" was put to all. It is needless to record the
answer!

On the previous day, being Sunday, Pullen preached a capital sermon,
drawing comparisons between the undertaking in which we were about to
engage, and the march of the Israelites to the Promised Land. The hymn
"for those at sea" was sung and the Holy Communion celebrated, at which
latter service there was an exceptionally good attendance, the number of
communicants amongst the men having largely increased.

From each sledge flew the bright colours of its commander's standard: a
swallow-tailed flag bearing the armorial colours, and emblazoned with
the crest of its owner, each charged with the red cross of St. George.
In addition, the two boats displayed from their mast-heads Captain
Nares's Union Jack and a white ensign. Worked by the fair hands of some
loved and cherished one at home, these standards, as they fluttered out
bravely before a gentle breeze, kindled our enthusiasm, whilst they
materially added to the spirit and gaiety of the scene.

The sledges were arranged in the following order:--"Marco Polo" (with a
boat), "Challenger," "Victoria" (with a boat), "Poppie," "Bulldog,"
"Alexandra," and "Bloodhound;" the latter was only a small sledge party
ordered to accompany us for three or four days, then supply us with
three days' provisions, and return to the ship to report our progress.

At eleven o'clock, everything being in readiness for a start, all hands
assembled on the floe, and prayers were read by Pullen. The hymn, "God,
from whom all blessings flow," was then sung, after which the order was
given to "fall in," and, amidst the hearty cheers of those few who were
left behind, the sledging parties moved off. The captain and officers
accompanied us for a short distance, when, wishing us Godspeed, they
turned to go back. This was a signal for three cheers from the
travellers, after which they settled down to their work, and the march
was steadily commenced.

The first day's march was necessarily a short one. It was to many their
introduction to the "drag-ropes," and symptoms of fatigue were soon
detected, caused by the energetic exertions of the inexperienced, who,
unlike the veterans of the previous autumn, overtaxed their strength in
their ardour to perform a good day's work.

The temperature at starting was 33° below zero, and at this it remained
steady the whole day, rendering the task of writing up our journals when
we halted extremely unpleasant and painful.

The scene of our first encampment was an animated and picturesque one.
We had marched about six miles from the ship, and the site selected was
at the base of a low brow, forming a connection or isthmus between a
long projecting tongue and the mainland. Here we pitched our seven
tents, from each of which the smoke from the cooking utensils issued,
ascending in spiral columns until lost amidst the clouds. In our rear
were the snow-clad hills, whilst in front was the illimitable frozen
sea. Men hurried about in the execution of various duties incidental to
"pitching for the night," such as the issuing of provisions by the
several sledge-captains, the banking up with snow of the exterior of the
tents, the re-packing of the sledges, or the careful covering up of the
lading so as to ensure its protection from snow-drift; all of which
duties must be sedulously carried out before rest and repose can be
sought in the sleeping-bags. A pleasing aroma of cooking tea was mixed
with the fragrance of stewed pemmican, and made us smack our lips in
anticipation of the meal that was preparing.

Not the least hard part of a day's work is that of camping after a
toilsome and weary journey, especially when the temperature is low and a
cold sleepless night anticipated; but when the weather is warm enough to
obtain a good night's rest, the order to halt is always received with
very great satisfaction, more especially when a good day's work has been
accomplished, with the prospect of fair travelling on the morrow.

As soon as the tents are ready for the reception of the men, they enter
one by one, take off their "overalls" for which their duffel coats are
substituted, change their foot gear and get into their sleeping-bags.
This change of foot gear in the morning and evening is the whole extent
of the toilet performed by the sledgers until their return to the ship!

The following morning we were under weigh pretty early, having spent a
cold wretched night, only too glad to be up and doing something, the
temperature inside our tent, with all the men in their bags, being as
low as 15° below zero. The experience gained during the autumn had a
very salutary effect on the travellers, the apprehension even of
frost-bite being in itself sufficient to banish all idea of sleep.

The operation of dressing and undressing, although it is entirely
limited to the clothing of the feet, is without doubt one of the most
disagreeable duties connected with sledge travelling. Our hose and
blanket-wrappers, although they were invariably kept _inside_ our
sleeping-bags during the night, were frozen so hard in the morning that
they were with the greatest difficulty folded over our feet. Sometimes
the wrappers were tied round the knees at night-time to protect them
from the cold, for that part of our body seemed more sensitive to the
temperature than any other.

Not the least trying part of our toilet was lacing and tying the stiffly
frozen strings of our equally hard moccasins with fingers either aching
from cold or devoid of all sensation. Not only was this a very painful
operation, but it was one that sorely taxed and ruffled the equanimity
of our tempers.

The snow over which we travelled was very soft and, unfortunately for
us, was also very deep, making the dragging with our heavily laden
sledges most laborious, in fact so much so that we were frequently
compelled to resort to "double banking;" that is to say, the two crews
would be employed in first dragging on one sledge and then return to
advance the other. This, of course, made our progress very slow. After
the long confinement of the men during the darkness of the winter, they
were, in spite of the careful attention that had been paid to daily
exercise, hardly in what might be called first-rate condition, so that
fatigue for the first few days was felt by the majority, and not wishing
to impose too much on their zealous desire to push on, short journeys
were in consequence performed.

On the second day out, the temperature fell to 45° below zero, or 77°
below freezing point. The cold then was so intense as to deprive us of
sleep, the temperature _inside_ the tent being as low as -25°, the whole
period of rest being occupied in attempting to keep the blood in
circulation. Several frost-bites were sustained, but they were all
attended to in time, and resulted in nothing worse than severe and very
uncomfortable blisters.

So hard were our tent robes and sleeping-bags frozen that they resembled
sheet-iron, and care had to be taken to prevent them from coming into
contact with the face, for an abrasion of the skin would undoubtedly
follow!

Our curry paste, a small quantity of which we used to mix with our
pemmican to make it more palateable, looked, as the cook of the day
observed, exactly like a piece of brass, and was equally hard. Cramp in
the legs was complained of by many during the first few nights, but
gradually wore off, having in all probability been induced by the severe
and unaccustomed exercise. Thirst was also a subject of complaint, and
this, except at meal times, it was impossible to alleviate; for
although each man was supplied with a tin water-bottle covered with
duffel, the water could not be prevented from freezing, in spite of the
bottles being kept inside the waistbands of the men's trousers. The
practice of quenching thirst by putting snow or ice into the mouth is a
very dangerous one and was never permitted.

On the fourth day out we parted with our little sledge, the
"Bloodhound," which, having fulfilled its mission, returned to the ship,
taking back one of our party, who appeared unable to stand the fatigues
of sledging, and leaving one of their crew to fill his vacancy. We were
thus able to send back intelligence of our progress so far, and to
report the health of the men to be satisfactory, and that all were in
capital spirits. On the 10th of April the six sledges in company arrived
at the depôt of provisions established near Cape Joseph Henry during the
autumn, and found it undisturbed. The remainder of that day was employed
in bringing the provisions off to the sledges, which were left on the
ice, and in distributing them. The next morning was thick and foggy, the
atmosphere being rendered doubly obscure by a heavy fall of snow.

  "The cold, uncomfortable daylight dawned,
   And the white tents, topping a low ground fog,
   Show'd like a fleet becalmed."

On this day the supporting sledges "Bulldog" and "Alexandra," having
performed the duties allotted to them, bade farewell to their companions
and returned to their ship. The two extended parties advanced on their
solitary missions; the northern division leaving the land and pushing
straight out on the rugged polar pack, whilst the western party
continued the exploration of the coast to the westward.

It was a strange farewell that was taken on that cold dull day on the
inhospitable ice-floe, amidst bristling hummocks and heaped up
snow-drifts, as the several parties pursued their different courses, one
returning to their Arctic home, the others to unknown difficulties, but
to hoped-for discoveries.

Brief was the parting, but sincere were the wishes for each other's
success. Hearty British cheers resounded in that icy wilderness,
hitherto undisturbed by the presence of mortal man, as we bade adieu to
our fellow-travellers, the echoes from which had scarce died away before
their forms vanished from our view in the thick driving snow that
shrouded in obscurity the surrounding objects.

It was, however, no time for reflection; for now all our energies, both
mental and physical, had to be devoted to the furtherance of the great
work with which we were entrusted. The men resolutely seized their
drag-ropes, and with light and willing hearts commenced their toilsome
advance.

In order to enable my readers to follow us during the time we were
engaged in the sledging operations, I will endeavour to explain, as
briefly as possible, the ordinary daily routine invariably carried out
by those so employed belonging to the "Alert."

The cook for the day is an important personage, and his duties, as I
have before related, are of a very onerous and trying description. Each
individual composing the sledge crew has to perform this office in turn
during twenty-four hours, and it is one that sorely taxes his patience
and powers of endurance, especially in very cold weather. He gladly
transfers his functions as cook to his successor, happy in the
assurance that his "turn" will not come round for another week, unless
sickness or any other unforeseen event should prostrate any of his
comrades.

The cook's work commences at an early hour, when, after having lighted
his lamp and converted sufficient ice or snow into water for the morning
meal, he reenters the tent, and walking unconcernedly on the sleeping
forms of his companions, proceeds deliberately to brush from the top and
sides of the tent the condensed moisture that has been accumulating
during the night, and which falls in minute frozen particles on the
coverlet. This operation being concluded, to the no small relief of
those over whom he has been walking, the coverlet is removed, well
brushed, shaken, folded up, and placed on the sledge. He then busies
himself with the important preparations for breakfast. In about two
hours from the time that the cook is called, the cocoa is reported
ready, when the rest of the party are awakened.

If the weather is very cold, breakfast is discussed in our bags, in
which we all sit up; a comical-looking lot in our grey skull-caps and
duffel coats! The biscuit bag is then laid in the centre of the tent,
spoons are produced, and the pannikins, each containing one pint of warm
cocoa, are handed in. The only articles that were not considered as
common property amongst us were our spoons. These were slightly larger
than an ordinary table-spoon, were made of horn, and supplied to each
sledger by a beneficent Government. We generally carried them slung
round our necks by laniards, or in our pockets.

The pannikins being emptied they are returned to the cook, who has in
the mean time been preparing the pemmican. So hard is this article
frozen that the portions for use have to be chipped off with a chopper
before they can be put into the stew-pan.

While the cook's anxiety is momentarily increased by the fear that his
fuel will be consumed before the repast is prepared, and his fingers are
alternately burnt and frost-bitten in his endeavours to trim and adjust
the lamp, prayers are read to those inside, the foot gear is changed and
the sleeping-bags rolled up. By the time this has been done, the
pemmican is ready, passed in, and eaten. Orders are then given to strike
tent, pack sledge, and prepare to march.

The great secret in packing a sledge properly is to have the weights as
nearly as possible in the centre--as far from the extremes as it is
possible to get them, so that the sledge may rise easily over obstacles.
When all is ready, the drag-ropes are manned, and with a "one, two,
three, haul," and a good pull altogether, the sledge is started and the
march commenced.

Care should be taken to scrape the pannikins out with a knife, before
the refuse inside has time to freeze, otherwise it will be difficult to
remove. Water for washing purposes, of any description, whilst sledging
is quite out of the question. After marching for about five or six
hours, a halt is called for lunch. This meal consists of four ounces of
bacon, a little biscuit, and a warm pannikin of tea to each man.

Although the most refreshing and enjoyable of all our meals, luncheon
was, when there was much wind, or the weather intensely cold, a very
trying one. The halt is of necessity long. Frequently an hour or an hour
and a half elapses before the tea is reported ready, during which time
the men are compelled to keep constantly on the move to avoid
frost-bites. When there is much wind the tent is pitched; but this adds
little to our comfort, for it is too cold to remain inside for any
length of time. If we were not all suffering from the same cause, we
should be disposed to laugh at the strange antics of our companions in
their efforts to keep their feet from getting frost-bitten. One man is
"marking time" at the double; another jumping up and down in a frantic
manner; another is sitting down cross-legged like a Turk, or a tailor,
and is occupied in belabouring his feet with his mittened hands, in his
energetic endeavours to restore circulation; whilst another, unable any
longer to endure the cold, commences furiously to kick the sledge, or a
hummock, with both feet like one bereft of his senses. Although halted,
little rest is enjoyed; anxiously is the kettle watched, and many are
the tender inquiries concerning the state of the water inside. "Does it
boil?" is a question frequently asked, and unless the cook is blessed
with an amiable disposition, the perversity of the kettle is sufficient,
at times, to drive him almost distracted. The old saw, "A watched pot
never boils," is fully exemplified. At length, to the relief and delight
of all, the announcement is made that the tea is ready, when all
troubles are forgotten in the pleasure and enjoyment of a warm pannikin
of tea. Sometimes little difficulties would arise in consequence of the
haste with which it was necessary to prepare and discuss this meal.
These, although serious at the time, served afterwards to amuse, and
were soon forgotten. On one occasion, the water having been boiled, and
the cook having, as he thought, carefully added the tea and sugar, which
were as carefully stirred up, the allowance of tea was served out and
eagerly drunk by the wearied sledgers, who were only too glad and
thankful to receive anything warm. It was not until some time after the
allowance had been consumed that the cook discovered he had omitted to
put in the _tea_, and had served out simply a decoction of warm water
and brown sugar! Sometimes the tea was made from salt-water ice, the
cook having inadvertently mixed it before tasting the water! In such a
case we had either to drink it, or get none at all!

Our bacon was, as a rule, frozen so hard as to be like a piece of
granite, and it was only by thawing it in our warm tea that it became
eatable. This had the effect of converting our tea into a sort of soup!

The time of halting for the night varied considerably; but it was
generally after ten, eleven, and sometimes twelve hours' steady
marching. The first thing to be done is to select a suitable site as
level as possible and where the snow is not too deep, for pitching the
tent, which should be carefully banked up outside with snow to the
height of two or three feet. Every one assists in this work except the
cook, who is busily engaged in the necessary preparations for the
evening meal. As soon as the tent is ready, the men enter, change their
foot gear, and struggle into their half-frozen bags, their toes and feet
having previously been examined by the officer for the detection of
frost-bites. If a frost-bite is discovered, circulation is immediately
restored, and the injured part dressed by the application of a little
glycerine ointment and some lint.

As a rule the moccasins, hose, and blanket wrappers are so firmly frozen
together that they are with difficulty separated, and are taken off the
feet as _one_ article of clothing. It is amusing to witness the frantic
exertions made by some of the men in their efforts to struggle into
their duffel coats. They are frozen so stiff and hard that this
operation is always an intensely aggravating one, and even when it is
accomplished, the men are utterly helpless until the warmth from their
bodies has partially thawed the coats and rendered them supple. They
were, with a very great deal of truth, likened to "strait-jackets."

[Illustration: GETTING READY TO "BAG."]

By the time that the whole party are comfortably settled in their bags,
supper, consisting of tea and pemmican, is ready and served; after which
pipes are lighted, conversation ensues, and the allowance of grog is
served out. This is undoubtedly the most delightful and happiest part of
the day's proceedings, and I should deprecate very strongly any attempts
to deprive the poor Arctic sledger of his small modicum of rum and
water, provided it was always issued at the same time as ours, and
_never_ during the fatigue and exertions of the day. The quantity is so
small that the most fanatical theorist cannot seriously maintain that it
can do harm. But experience proves that it tends very materially to
cheer and invigorate the men during the short time that they can really
call their own in the whole twenty-four hours, and it certainly imparts
a glow which induces sleep--a very important effect of its use.
Sometimes singing will be the order of the day, or rather evening, or
perhaps a book will be read aloud; but whatever amusement is resorted to
for the purpose of thoroughly enjoying the half-hour after supper,
whether it is singing, reading, or yarning, all are cheerful, contented,
and happy.

Home is, of course, a great topic of conversation, and what each man
intends doing on his return to England is freely discussed. We know all
about each other, and frequently detect ourselves confiding secrets that
we should under ordinary circumstances divulge only to our bosom
friends. Sometimes a hot argument is maintained between two men
belonging to different counties on the relative merits of the pigs of
their own counties and their manner of feeding; or perhaps they will get
into a discussion on the liberality of large landed proprietors near
whom they may be living. For instance, one man who lived in Devonshire
was extolling Lord Mount Edgcumbe. "Ah! he was a noble lord! he opened
his grounds once a week for the admission of the public." But another
man, hailing from Lancashire, answered by saying, "He didn't see that he
was any better than any other lord; for," he said, "Lord Derby admitted
the public into his park every day, and if it was raining he would send
his carriage for you!" This argument, although I fear not strictly
correct, was unanswerable, and the west countryman had to give in to the
more liberal experiences of his friend.

Before composing ourselves to sleep, the cook, having made the necessary
preparations for the morning's meal, passes in our coverlet. This is
always the last thing done before closing the door of the tent for the
night.

How is it possible to describe what this coverlet is like when handed
in? Those who have never been initiated into the mysteries of Arctic
sledge life would be unable to realize what it resembles when unpacked
from the sledge. It is more like a piece of wood or sheet-iron than an
article of woollen material. With the utmost difficulty it is unfolded;
but as for spreading, that is quite out of the question: it stands up in
the centre like a second tent, and refuses to lie flat, in spite of the
beating with which it is assailed. It is only after it has been some
time in this position that it gradually thaws, when it becomes a "wet
blanket" indeed!

The contents of this chapter may give some idea of the ordinary routine
of a sledge traveller's life. The details were invariably carried out
by the different sledge parties despatched from the "Alert." In the
succeeding chapter we will follow the fortunes of the northern division,
and I shall endeavour to depict briefly the difficulties it had to
contend with, and the manner in which they were surmounted.




CHAPTER XXII.

THE NORTHERN DIVISION--TRAVELLING IN APRIL.


  "These high wild hills, and rough uneven ways,
   Draw out our miles and make them wearisome;
   And yet your fair discourse hath been as sugar,
   Making the hard way sweet and delectable....
   But I bethink me, what a weary way!"

     _Richard II._

The different sledge parties having branched off, as related in the
preceding chapter, I must request my readers to follow the fortunes of
the northern division, which was under my command.

The serious obstacles that so persistently impeded our progress were
immediately encountered. The retreating forms of our comrades, who had
assisted us thus far, were scarcely out of sight before we were busily
engaged in constructing a road along which to drag our sledges. These
roads were rendered necessary in consequence of the rugged nature of the
ice over which we had to travel, the floes being of the smallest
dimensions as regarded superficial area, and surrounded by broad fringes
of squeezed-up hummocks. The hummocks proved most formidable impediments
to our advance. No sooner had we congratulated ourselves upon
successfully accomplishing a passage through one line of these
obstacles, than ~~ 274 another, and perhaps a more ragged and
apparently impassable hedge, appeared in front of us. It seemed as if a
terrible conflict had been fought between these ponderous masses of ice,
which had so shattered and split them up as to suggest to us the idea
that they resembled a tempestuous broken sea suddenly frozen.

[Illustration: OUTWARD AND RETURN TRACKS ON THE SEA ICE.

Made by the Northern Sledging Party under the command of Commander A. H.
MARKHAM.]

To make any advance at all, pickaxes and shovels were in constant
requisition, and with these implements we succeeded in hewing and
cutting a road for our sledges, by which we were able to make a
snail-like progress. The roughness of the road was not our only
difficulty. Around and about the hummocks the snow had drifted to such a
depth that the men were frequently floundering in it up to their waists,
and passages through this had to be cleared with shovels before the
sledges could be dragged on. Occasionally the sledges would have to be
unpacked and lightened considerably before they could be dragged through
this deep soft snow.

We, at first, attempted to console ourselves with the idea that this
irregular and broken sea of ice was only caused by our proximity to the
land; and that we should, as we advanced in a northerly direction, meet
with smooth level floes, on which we should be able to travel along
merrily, and so make up for the time expended in struggling through the
hummocks.

How delusive proved our hopes and anticipations the sequel will show!
The belts of hummocks that separated the floes varied from twenty yards
to half a mile in breadth, and were from fifteen to fifty feet in
height.

Road-making, as we called it, was a work of daily, I may say of
constant, occurrence. We regarded our pickaxes with great affection, and
they were consequently treated with the utmost tenderness and care. Any
mishap to them would have been indeed a serious misfortune, as we should
have nothing to supply their place, and would therefore have been in a
predicament in which we could neither advance nor return. The anxiety
with which they were watched may therefore be imagined.

Instead of giving simply a brief _résumé_ of our sledging life, it will,
I think, be more interesting to follow the sledge parties day by day in
their arduous march to the northward, and their still more irksome and
wearisome return journey. To do this, it will be as well to extract
portions from my daily journal, avoiding repetition as much as possible,
and commencing on the day after that on which we were left by our
supporting sledges to prosecute our undertaking.

_April 12th._--A most gratifying and unexpected change of weather
enabled us to pass a comparatively comfortable night, the temperature
inside our tent being as high as +16°. Hitherto it has stood at, and
generally far below, zero. With the thermometer in the air registering a
few degrees below zero, it is just possible to keep ourselves warm
enough inside our tents to sleep; but with a temperature ranging from
-35° downwards sleep is almost out of the question.

In order to keep the sun as much as possible at our backs during the
time we were on the march, we adopted the system of travelling, whilst
on our outward journey, between noon and midnight. The cooks were, as a
rule, called at about half-past nine in the forenoon, and the sledges
were generally on the move about half-past eleven. This time of
travelling was selected more with a view to the prevention of snow
blindness than anything else.

After breakfast the road-makers, six in number, were advanced for the
purpose of constructing a road through an ugly fringe of hummocks on the
southern side of which our camp had been pitched; the rest of the party
being employed in striking the tents, packing and bringing on the
sledges, one by one, as far as the road was practicable. Being a bright
sunny day the tent robes and other gear were triced up to the boats'
masts and yards to dry. The sun was powerful enough to extract the
moisture from the woollen substance, which would freeze, forming a sort
of hoar-frost that could with ease be brushed or shaken off.

On these bright clear days, the snow on the surface of the floes over
which we were journeying was so highly crystallized that it sparkled and
glittered with the most brilliant iridescent colours. The ground upon
which we trod appeared to be strewn with bright and lustrous gems, of
which the most prominent were diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires.
It was indeed a fairy-like scene; but our duties were too matter of fact
to admit of our indulging for any time in romance or sentiment.

A glance at our comrades would quickly recall us to the reality of our
situation. Their dirty and rough-clad forms were strangely at variance
with the scene of enchantment that might be conjured up. With faces
scarified by the combined action of sun and frost, and black with smoke,
with the tips of their fingers senseless from repeated frost-bites, with
sore shoulders and aching limbs, the wearied sledgers pursued their way,
not altogether indifferent to the beauties that surrounded them, but
careless of the difficulties and discomforts they encountered.

During the afternoon, being about three miles from the nearest land, we
observed, to our surprise, the fresh traces on the snow of a little
lemming! It is hard to tell what inducement this little animal could
have had for straying so far away from the land, and consequently from
its means of obtaining the wherewithal to support life!

We passed through a dense mass of hummocks, emerging, eventually, on a
heavy floe of "ancient lineage," whose surface was undulating, and
adorned with veritable "ice-mountains" some twenty feet in height. These
were generally of a rounded form and of a smooth surface, and appeared
to be the result of long and continuous snow-drift. We camped on the
northern edge of the floe, the men being employed in cutting a road
through the hummocks whilst supper was preparing, in readiness for our
start on the morrow.

A journey through, and over, hummocks is the most unsatisfactory kind of
travelling that can possibly be imagined. "Standing pulls" must be the
order of the day, and the incessant "one, two, three, haul" is
constantly heard. The trudging backwards and forwards to drag the
different sledges to the front along the same road is decidedly
monotonous; but this had no effect on the cheerfulness and general good
spirits of the men, who were all actuated by the same zealous desire to
do their best. The temperature all day had been delightful, ranging from
8° to 20° below zero.

_April 13th._--A dull, cloudy day, with the sun shining at intervals,
and the temperature as low at one time as -33°. We cut a road and
dragged the sledges through a fringe of hummocks about two hundred yards
in breadth, then crossed a fine large floe that afforded us capital
travelling for nearly a mile in a northerly direction, then through
another long fringe of large and troublesome hummocks, until we were
completely brought to a standstill by a mass of enormous fragments of
ice, piled up in an irregular form to the height of from twenty to
thirty feet. Through this obstacle we resolved to cut a road: in fact,
no other alternative offered. It was a long and tedious job; but with
such a hearty good will did the men work that we had the satisfaction of
dragging our sledges over a very rough road and encamping for the night
with the difficulties in our rear. Parr with pickaxe and shovel was a
first-rate "navvy," and worked like a horse.

Our routine was for one or other of us to select the best route through
the hummocks. This being done, one, with a gang of road-makers,
proceeded to construct the road, whilst the other, with the remainder of
the party, dragged the sledges on one by one. Great care had to be taken
that our boats, on the exceedingly rough road over which they were
dragged, did not sustain any injury. Sometimes it was a very delicate
matter, and one that required skilful handling, after the sledges had
been hauled up to the top of the hummocks, to lower them down in safety
on the opposite side. The ease and facility with which the ice yielded
to the dexterous blows of the pickaxes, wielded by strong and determined
men, was almost incredible. Apparently impenetrable masses of ice
vanished before their efforts, and left a fairly good road by which we
advanced.

_April 14th._--Last night our sleeping-bags were frozen so hard that it
was with great difficulty we succeeded in getting into them. Even when
this was accomplished, the warmth we derived from them was
inappreciable, and we felt more as if we were confined in a wooden box
or coffin than in a woollen bag! My blanket wrappers, although I laid on
them all night, were so stiff this morning that I had the utmost
difficulty in bending them over my feet! Being Good Friday, our prayers
in the morning were of longer duration than usual.

[Illustration: INTERIOR OF TENT.]

Crossed an old floe having a hard incrustation on its surface--not
sufficiently strong, however, to bear the weight either of the men or
the sledges; consequently at every step we broke through, and would
then sink deeply into soft snow. This was not only very laborious but
very aggravating work.

[Illustration: A PACKED SLEDGE.]

On portions of the road, where these patches of level soft snow
occurred, the flat-bottomed taboggans, used in the Hudson Bay Company's
territory, would be suitable. But the greater part of the road was over
heavy broken-up hummocks and hard fragments of ice, lying at all kinds
of angles; on the whole we found the eight-men high-runner sledge which
we used, and which was originally designed by Sir Leopold McClintock,
infinitely preferable. Long experience has conclusively proved its
excellence. It was the kind of sledge with which the North West Passage
was discovered and the Parry Islands explored, and with us it once more
did most admirable service in many directions, and over the roughest
ground imaginable.

The temperature was too low to allow us to stop for the purpose of
obtaining a meridian altitude, which we invariably get at noon. There
was an unpleasant nipping breeze from the northward; our faces, more
especially our noses, being "touched up" constantly by Jack Frost.

The floes off Cape Joseph Henry, although actually smaller than most of
those we have crossed, were far more heavy. In all probability they are
reduced in size by great and continual pressure off the cape. The wind
freshening, and the weather becoming very thick, we halted an hour
earlier than we otherwise would have done.

John Shirley, one of my sledge crew, complained of pains in his ankles
and knees. On examination they appeared slightly swollen, and I treated
him according to the instructions laid down for the guidance of the
sledging officers by our doctor.

Although at the time ignorant of the fact, this was the first appearance
of that dreadful disease, scurvy, which shortly afterwards laid its
destroying hand upon us, and reduced us to such a helpless and prostrate
state. From this day we were deprived of the services of Shirley, who
gradually but surely got worse, and was never again able to render the
slightest assistance even in the most minute details of our routine.

_April 15th._--A N.W. gale, with an exceedingly low temperature, and an
impervious snow-drift, rendered travelling quite out of the question.

Extreme wretchedness, I might almost say abject misery, was our lot
to-day.

We appeared to receive little benefit, in the way of warmth, from our
tent robes, and the temperature inside our tent, with our whole party
huddled close together, was 22° below zero! Gladly would we have pushed
on had it been possible. A hard day's work, even amongst the most
impenetrable hummocks, would have been infinitely preferable to our
present forced detention and inactivity. Unable to stir outside the
tent, on account of the blinding snow-drift that was whirling around,
too cold to read or even to sit up in one's bag for the sake of
conversation, tent robes and bags frozen hard--a combination of these
evils renders the position of those who suffer from them an unenviable
one indeed. It is a remarkable fact that we this day experienced a lower
temperature during a gale of wind than we did during the whole winter at
the "Alert's" winter quarters. This appears to point conclusively to the
fact that there can be no large body of water either to the northward or
westward of us.

The thermometer invariably rose during the southerly gales experienced
in the winter, and this was very naturally attributed to the wind
blowing across a large expanse of open water.

_April 16th._--Easter Sunday.

The gale, although it had moderated, was still blowing too fiercely to
allow us to proceed. We were therefore compelled, sorely against our
inclination, to remain encamped. We unanimously came to the conclusion
that this was by far the most wretched and miserable Easter Sunday that
we had ever spent. Forty-eight hours in a gale of wind, tied up in a bag
off the most northern known land, with a temperature 67° below freezing
point, is certainly not the most pleasant manner that any one would
select for passing an Easter Sunday!

For forty hours I did not have the slightest feeling in my feet, and
could not really declare that I was in possession of those useful
members--as for sleep, under the circumstances, that was quite out of
the question. In spite of the cold and dismal surroundings, we did not
neglect last evening the usual Saturday night's toast, on receipt of our
small allowance of grog. It most decidedly had the effect of cheering us
up considerably, and for the time assisted in making us forget the
discomfort of our position. At half-past four in the afternoon, the wind
having subsided, it was determined to make a move. We felt that anything
was preferable to the tedium and dreariness of our compulsory detention.
The tents were accordingly struck, sledges packed, and the march
renewed. Shirley, being unable to walk, was placed in his sleeping-bag,
rolled up in the tent robes, and tied securely on one of the sledges.
This seriously added to the weight to be dragged, whilst it also reduced
our motive power; however, we hoped that by thus giving him complete
rest, he would the more rapidly recover and resume his place on the
drag-ropes.

Alas! how little did we think that the fearful and wasting disease, the
premonitory symptoms of which were now exhibited, would insidiously
steal its way amongst us, and assailing the party one by one reduce us
so disastrously as to bring us to the verge of destruction!

We cut our way through a hedge of hummocks about one-third of a mile in
breadth, and then on to a floe apparently of great thickness; but,
unfortunately for us, not more than three hundred yards across. Between
these stupendous floes we would occasionally meet with some young ice
amongst the hummocks which, when it trended in the right direction,
would afford us easy travelling; but these leads were never of any
extent.

The gale had accumulated the snow in deep drifts, which rendered the
task of dragging the sledges harder than ever. Our progress was
necessarily slow. We halted and encamped at half-past ten. The men
appeared to be more easily fatigued after lying so long idle in their
bags than if they had performed a hard day's work. Our camp this evening
was pitched almost abreast of Cape Joseph Henry, though some miles off
it.

When viewed from seaward, or more correctly speaking, "iceward," this
headland presents a bold and rugged appearance, rising nearly
perpendicular from base to summit, to a height of about eight hundred
feet, whence the land recedes, gradually ascending until it culminates
in a peak about three or four hundred feet higher. It appears to be of
limestone formation, with regular stratifications dipping to the
southward at an angle of 6° to 10° from the horizontal. The Cape itself
terminates in a knife-like edge from summit to base, in shape very much
resembling the ram-bow of an ironclad. Conical Hill, situated
immediately to the southward of Cape Joseph Henry, when observed on the
same bearing, presents more the form of a hog's back than a cone, but
possesses the same bold, rugged aspect. It is about the same height as
the peak surmounting Cape Joseph Henry, and is of the same formation;
but, unlike its neighbour, the strata dip to the southward at an angle
of about 6° or 10° from the vertical, giving it altogether a rather
distorted appearance. There is a great deal of similarity in the
surrounding hills, all being more or less coniform, and of an altitude
of from one to two thousand feet.

_April 17th._--Shirley no better this morning, and to add to our
troubles, George Porter, one of Parr's sledge crew, was also suffering
in the same manner from swollen and puffy knee joints.

Two men _hors de combat_ out of our little force diminishes our strength
very materially, and as they have both to be carried on the sledges it
adds seriously to the weights to be dragged. The morning was bright and
sunny, with a temperature as high as 24° below zero, so we congratulated
ourselves that it was now really on the turn, and that we should no
longer encounter any more extreme cold. The men take kindly to their
snow-goggles, and never attempt to take them off whilst on the
march--perhaps my expatiating largely on the excruciating agony and
acute pain inseparable from snow blindness, is in some way connected
with their submissiveness in this respect! Alfred Pearce was, yesterday,
rather severely frost-bitten on one of his fingers; but circulation was
rapidly restored, and to-day, with the exception of a little soreness,
he suffers no ill effects from it. The travelling to-day was nearly a
repetition of what we had hitherto been encountering: large masses of
ice thickly compacted together, squeezed up into every conceivable, but
indescribable, shape and form to a height of about twenty-five feet; but
these had to succumb to the strenuous exertions of Parr and his
indefatigable road-makers.

Energy and perseverance performed wonders. The men worked uncommonly
well--my only fear was that they would overtax their strength. Poor
fellows! they get little rest during the day, for even when we halt for
lunch, they are compelled to be continually on the move to keep their
blood in circulation. To sit or lie down for any length of time would be
fatal. No wonder, then, they are fatigued at the end of the day's work.

Some of the floes over which we travelled to-day were of greater
thickness than others, and it was no unfrequent occurrence for us to
drop a height of six or seven feet from the top of one floe to the
surface of another; or, _vice versâ_, to have to haul the sledges up the
same height. This was no easy work with our heavily laden sledges and
boats. Snow commenced falling at 3 P.M., and continued all night.

_April 18th._--The old story last night with our sleeping-bags! So hard
were they frozen that it occupied us a considerable time before we could
struggle into them. The night, however, was not so cold, and we
succeeded in sleeping pretty comfortably. Before starting this morning
we lightened our heavy sledge by making a redistribution of the weights
on all three sledges. By these means we hoped to be able to get on a
little better.

We found the helmet worsted caps that were so kindly given to us by the
Empress very warm and comfortable for sleeping in. They are much
appreciated by the men, who call them "Eugenies," and they constantly
refer with gratitude to her Majesty's kind and thoughtful present.

The travelling to-day was excessively heavy, in consequence of the
unevenness of the floes and the deep soft snow with which they were
covered. After lunch we arrived at and crossed some "veritable
palæocrystic floes"--apparently of gigantic thickness, and studded with
numerous rounded snow hillocks; the height of some of the latter being
as much as thirty feet above the surface of the floe. In crossing one of
these, the "Victoria" sledge capsized, but was soon righted without
damaging either the sledge or the boat, or injuring the invalid who was
lashed on top, and who received only a slight shaking. As we proceeded
northwards we opened out the land to the westward, and a large bay which
has since been called Clements Markham Inlet. A S.E. breeze sprang up in
the evening shortly before we halted, which, strange to say, sent the
temperature down rapidly to -33°, and we had, in consequence, to be
cautious about frost-bites.

_April 19th._--A fine clear day. Our bags last night were rendered a
little more habitable by having been exposed during the day to the heat
of the sun, which was sufficiently powerful to extract the greater part
of the moisture which had been absorbed by them. Our plan is on fine
days to suspend as much as we possibly can from the masts and yards of
the boats, and to spread the gear out over the sledges, so that it may
dry as we travel along. This answers admirably and enables us to pass
more comfortable nights.

After toiling hard for three and a half hours, during which time we had
advanced the sledges barely a quarter of a mile, I came to the
determination to abandon our largest boat. It was heart-breaking to
witness the men slaving in their endeavours to drag on the heavy sledge
and boat--to see the continual standing pulls, the incessant "one, two,
three, haul," and no result.

I did not arrive at this decision until after very mature deliberation.
My conviction was that amongst such ice as that over which we were
travelling, should a disruption occur, our boats would be of little
service to us, except as a means of ferrying from one floe to another.
For this purpose I retain the smaller boat.

Leaving the boat in as conspicuous a position as possible, with her mast
stepped and yard triced up, and having obtained a round of angles in
order to fix her position, so as to facilitate our finding her on the
return journey, the march was resumed, every one well pleased at being
rid of the incubus, as the large boat was always regarded. We travelled
over deep and uneven snow ridges, and experienced great difficulty in
getting from one floe to another, on account of the perpendicular drop.
Before halting we got on to some young ice amongst the hummocks, along
which we rattled gaily, actually performing a distance of about half a
mile in something like two hours! This is good work for us. It must be
remembered that we have to advance _three_ sledges, and to do this we
have to walk over the same road five times!

If our invalids would only show some symptoms of improvement we should
have more hope of reaching a higher latitude; but at present they
compensate in weight and loss of power for the abandonment of the boat.
I regard each man carried as about 200 lbs. extra weight, and the loss
of their services on the drag-ropes is about equal to another 200 lbs.
weight to be added--therefore the two invalids reckon as much as 800
lbs., exactly equivalent to the weight of the deserted boat! So long as
they remain ill, we gain nothing upon the actual weights dragged before
their sickness commenced. Instead of their getting better, we have the
prospect of an increased sick list, for this evening Alfred Pearce was
compelled to fall out from the drag-ropes, suffering from a badly
swollen ankle, and exhibiting in fact the same symptoms as the other
men.

_April 20th._--This morning we were unable to make a start in
consequence of the thickness of the weather. Snow was falling slightly,
but the fog was so dense that it was impossible to see the length of the
sledge ahead. As I had brought with me one of Dickens's works, "The Old
Curiosity Shop," I read aloud to the men, who were much interested in
the story.

By 2 P.M., the weather having cleared slightly, we determined to push on
and find our way through the fog and hummocks as best we could. The snow
was very deep and the hummocks appeared to be interminable. The task of
selecting a road was by no means easy--nothing to be seen but hummocks
in every direction. At eight o'clock, the fog lifting a little, we
succeeded in extricating ourselves from our difficulties, and crossing a
large heavy floe got on to a lead of young ice which gave us good
travelling. Although this young ice enabled us to travel quicker, and
rendered the work of dragging easier, still I was sorry to see it, as I
was rather apprehensive that the pack might break up earlier than we
anticipated, and so place us in an exceedingly awkward predicament. We
halted and camped at half-past ten, having (considering the lateness of
our start) performed a fair day's work.

_April 21st._--A keen piercing wind from the northward. Travelling much
the same. Although the temperature was only 17° below zero, the cold was
more intense than we had yet felt it since leaving the ship. The wind
seemed to cut us in two, and was the cause of numerous superficial
frost-bites. One man, Thomas Simpson, was rather severely frost-bitten
in the big toe, which was, however, quickly attended to and brought
round.

Our greatest enemies, whilst crossing a floe of any extent, were the
numberless cracks and fissures in the ice, radiating in all directions
and treacherously concealed by a covering of snow. Into these we
frequently fell, and as some of them were of great depth it seemed
almost miraculous that we escaped without a fractured limb! These cracks
must be produced either by enormous pressure or intense cold.

_April 22nd._--The wind blew in heavy squalls last night, and continued
fresh this morning; but as we all dreaded a longer detention in our tent
we resolved to push on at all hazards.

It was painful to witness the efforts of the poor fellows in their
endeavours to protect their faces from the cold cutting wind as they
plodded along, dragging the heavily laden sledges; but they seemed
cheerful enough, and treated the numerous frost-bites that appeared on
their cheeks as rather a good joke than anything else. The sun peeped
out for a few moments during the afternoon; but a heavy mist hung over
the land, entirely obscuring it from our view. The floes over which we
travelled to-day were more level than any we had yet crossed, and
infinitely larger; but as a set-off against this, we found the snow very
deep, which rendered the dragging excessively laborious. Few hummocks
adorned the edges of these floes. They appeared to have come into
contact with each other in a most amicable manner, and then immediately
united before any pressure could be exerted, so as to form the immense
hedges of heaped-up masses of ice that have hitherto been our great
bugbear. One floe crossed to-day was estimated at about a mile and
three-quarters in length, and about six miles in circumference.

_April 23rd._--Progressing but slowly. The travelling was very heavy,
through deep soft snow, and we were delayed considerably by being
obliged to make roads over broad belts of heavy hummocks.

We camped for the night on the verge of a floe, with enormous hummocks
squeezed up together immediately in front. The prospect of advancing was
not cheering! A S.E. breeze, springing up in the afternoon, sent the
temperature down suddenly to -24°. Our invalids did not appear to be
improving, and we were rather puzzled at some of their symptoms.

_April 24th._--The greater part of the day was employed in cutting a
road through a perfect sea of hummocks. They appeared to be
interminable. From the highest we could see nothing like a floe, nothing
but an uneven range of massive and shapeless blocks of ice. The
road-making was very hard and _very_ cold work, and the men had to be
relieved pretty often with the tools.

Skill is of more avail at this sort of work than brute force. A skilled
workman will soon demolish a large hummock, on which a strong but
inexperienced man is wasting all his energy and strength in fruitless
blows.

We had the satisfaction to-day of crossing the eighty-third parallel of
latitude,[1] and of knowing that we were the first party of men that
had ever reached such a high position. The wind to-day, although
decidedly unpleasant, was of some service, for being from the southward
we were able to make sail on our sledges and thus utilize the otherwise
unwelcome breeze.

_April 25th._--A beautiful day, but with a low temperature. A slight
breeze from the eastward reminded us that we possessed noses. These
latter appendages have been voted decided nuisances, and could easily be
dispensed with whilst sledging! The travelling to-day was a slight
improvement on our preceding day's work. Indeed at one time we were able
to advance our two light sledges "single banked," that is with their own
individual crews, instead of employing both crews to drag on one sledge
at a time; but this was only for a very short distance. The snow was
very deep and of a tenacious consistency, clinging to the sledge runners
and thereby seriously impeding our progress. So powerful were the rays
of the sun this afternoon that my thermometer, when exposed to them,
rose rapidly from -17° to -3°. At 6 P.M. I observed faint parhelia
showing prismatic colours. We were delayed towards the end of the day by
a broad belt of hummocks, through which a road had to be cut. The large
hummocks passed to-day, although smooth and rounded on the top and on
one side, were precipitous on the other and were fully thirty feet high.
Some of them appeared like isolated fragments in the centre of a floe,
and resembled the large grounded floe-bergs in the vicinity of the
"Alert's" winter quarters. They were undoubtedly portions of the floe
which had been broken off and squeezed up under irresistible pressure.

_April 26th._--Temperature to-day as high as -2°. For the first time,
since we have been away, were we able thoroughly to enjoy our lunch. On
account of the increased warmth, our bacon was more palateable, and we
could throw our wearied forms on the soft snow and discuss our pint of
tea without running the risk of having our toes frost-bitten. The
sensation of possessing feet was a novel and delightful one. Several of
the men have of late been attacked by violent bleedings of the nose; but
this, in all probability, is due to the rise of temperature. No
improvement in our travelling--still the same old story--hummocks and
snow-drifts, snow-drifts and hummocks. So dense were the latter that,
when we halted for the night, it really seemed as if we had arrived at
"the end of all things;" for in front of us was an apparently impassable
sea of hummocks extending north, east, and west as far as the range of
vision. A dismal prospect, indeed! But we did not despair, and still
hoped we might cut our way through these obstacles, and emerge upon
floes along which we should have little difficulty in advancing.

_April 27th._--A hard day's work! Road-makers incessantly employed, and
the sledges "double banked" the whole day, progress being necessarily
slow. Our invalids showed no signs of amendment, indeed two others
exhibited symptoms of the same disease; for such it appears to be.

Another great misfortune that happened was that both our shovels came to
grief--the handles breaking off at the junction between the wood and
iron. We, however, succeeded in "fishing" and thus rendering them
serviceable. We should be in a sorry plight if any accident happened to
our pickaxes as well as to our shovels. As an instance of the amount of
walking we had to perform, I may mention that to-day I had, of
necessity, to cross the same floe, on which the snow was knee-deep, no
less than thirteen times, "and didn't I hate that blackguard floe!"

_April 28th._--The temperature actually rose as high as +2°! This is the
first day that we have registered the thermometer above zero! It is a
decided improvement.

Last night, inside my tent, the temperature was as high as 33°, and, in
spite of a hard day's work, we were all busily employed, after supper
was over, in some way or another. A couple were splicing lanyards in
their drag-belts; one was tailoring; another repairing his moccasins;
one was darning his mitts, and another patching up his stockings with an
old blanket wrapper; whilst I was both reading aloud and dressing and
bandaging my patients' legs. All were smoking except myself. The effect
in a small confined tent may be imagined!

Two of the men, who are not tobacco smokers, smoked what they called
"herb" tobacco, which diffused a rather pleasing aroma, and served to
deaden the unpleasantness of the tobacco smoke. It is composed of
various dried aromatic herbs, and is, I believe, recommended by the
faculty for many disorders.

The travelling was as bad as ever--through heavy hummocks and deep
snow-drifts. We had the misfortune to capsize the sledge, on which was
one of the invalids; but a slight delay was the only inconvenience
caused. The weather in the afternoon became very thick, making it
extremely difficult to select a route. Everything was of one uniform
colour: above, below, behind, and before; all was alike, and it was
quite impossible to tell whether we were going up or down hill until a
fall would inform us of the fact. To our great surprise, this evening,
we came across the traces of a hare in the soft snow. They were
apparently recent, and travelling in a southerly direction. The little
creature was evidently very tired, as the footsteps appeared to be close
together. Poor Pussy! it must have wandered out on the floe and lost
itself, for we were quite seventeen miles from the nearest land. I have
no doubt, if we had followed up the track, that we should have found the
poor little animal lying dead or exhausted under some hummock, famished
for want of food.

_April 29th._--Small floes surrounded with high hummocks and covered
with deep snow, were still encountered, with occasionally a short lead
on some young ice that we sometimes met twining round the larger floes.
It was difficult to account for the presence of so much young ice, and I
can only suggest that, after the disruption in the summer, the pack
remained some length of time in a quiescent state, and so allowed the
young ice to form between the floes; for if once in motion, no ice of a
single season's formation could withstand the tremendous pressure that
would be exerted by these stupendous floes, but must inevitably be
pulverized and broken up into small fragments. Our wretched cook last
night made our tea and cooked our pemmican with the water obtained from
salt-water ice. We all in consequence suffered from intense thirst,
without being able to obtain anything to alleviate it.

_April 30th._--After halting last night the wind freshened into a gale,
the clouds thickened, and snow began to fall heavily, and this
continued all day without intermission, so much so that we were unable
to make a start. It was impossible to see the length of the sledge
ahead, and, surrounded as we were by hummocks, it would have been folly
to have attempted a move. We consoled ourselves by saying that the rest
would do us good, and that the invalids more especially would benefit by
it.


FOOTNOTE:

   [1] By the Act of Parliament (58 Geo. III. cap. xx.) passed in 1818,
     a reward of £1000 was assigned to any one who should cross the
     latitude of 83° N. But in 1828 this Act for the encouragement of
     Polar discovery was repealed by 9 Geo. IV. cap. lxvi.




CHAPTER XXIII.

THE MOST NORTHERN POINT EVER REACHED BY MAN.


  "And here on snows, where never human foot
   Of common mortal trod, we nightly tread
   And leave no traces, o'er the savage sea,
   The glassy ocean of the mountain ice;
   We skim its rugged breakers, which put on
   The aspect of a tumbling tempest's foam
   Frozen in a moment."

     BYRON.

_May 1st._--A fine sunny morning ushered in the month of May, all the
more appreciated in consequence of the enforced idleness of the
preceding day. The bright sun had a wonderful effect upon us all. It
seemed to cheer and invigorate our spirits, whilst it stimulated us to
renewed exertions in our endeavours to reach as high a northern latitude
as possible. Our invalids, however, were very faint and weak. They
exhibited no favourable symptoms of improvement, and were a great clog
and drawback to our progress. With our diminished crews we found it hard
work to drag the sledges over the rough hummocky road, and through the
deep soft snow-drifts that were constantly met. Road-making became a
necessary part of the daily routine. Floes of any extent were rarely
seen, and we had to thread our way through a perfect labyrinth of
piled-up masses of ice, with little or no prospect of its improving. It
was a dreary and wild-looking scene: no living thing in sight but our
own little party, no colour or object to relieve the eye; nothing but a
chaotic and illimitable sea of ice. Sometimes a fog was observed
gradually rolling itself towards us, like a large mantle, until we were
completely enveloped in its dense folds; when, continuing its onward
course, it would roll as rapidly away, leaving a bright luminous band
stretching across the horizon in the direction whence it had come.

_May 2nd._--Although we had been told that there was not the slightest
chance of our being attacked with scurvy, still, from the utter
prostration of our invalids, combined with other symptoms, we were
almost inclined to believe that we were really afflicted with this dire
and wasting disease. It was a terrible idea that forced itself upon us,
and one that we were loath to indulge in; but we feared that the
symptoms pointed unmistakeably to the fact that this fearful disease, so
dreaded by the mariners of old, was gradually but surely laying its hand
upon us, completely prostrating those it attacked and rendering them
helpless from pain and exhaustion. Parr and myself spoke of it only when
we were by ourselves, as we considered it of the utmost importance that
the men should remain in ignorance as long as possible, and not even
suspect the nature of the disease which had crippled so many of their
number. Swollen joints and discolouration of the skin, attended with
faintness and great weakness, were the principal symptoms. Great as were
the natural difficulties which surrounded us, still, should our surmise
be correct, we could not but regard this as the most formidable of all
obstacles to our advance that could possibly be imagined. Our only hope
was that the five men now afflicted might, through their habits or
disposition, have been more prone to the attacks of this insidious
disease, than the remainder of our party, who, we hoped, might escape
scathless. We camped this evening amidst a pile of hummocks, after one
of the hardest day's work we have yet performed. So rough was the road
and so deep was the snow that the sledges could only be advanced by
"standing pulls." This was disheartening, for we had all been cherishing
the hope that as we advanced northwards we should find larger and more
level floes and less snow; the reverse, however, was the case. Several
times did one or other of us disappear through deep rents in the floe,
but we always succeeded in scrambling up again unhurt.

_May 3rd._--A dull, dark, foggy day rendered it extremely difficult to
select our road, and we were occasionally compelled to unload the
sledges before they could be dragged through the deep soft snow-drifts
which were continually met across our route, making the work all the
more hard and distressing. The fog persistently hung over us all day;
but was not sufficiently dense to retard our progress altogether, though
it materially increased our labours and augmented our difficulties.

_May 4th._--Everything appeared to combine against us: weather, snow
ice, and sickness! In spite of these evils our tents were struck and a
start made; but after advancing for half a mile, which took us exactly
three and a half hours to accomplish, we arrived at such a confused heap
of hummocks that, with the dense fog prevailing and the falling snow,
it was impossible to make any headway. To persevere would have been
imprudent. The tents were accordingly pitched, and we consoled ourselves
by saying that the rest would be productive of much good to our sick
companions, for even those that had to be carried on the sledges could
get no rest whilst being dragged and jolted and sometimes capsized over
the roughest road imaginable. After lunch, the weather clearing a
little, we employed ourselves in cutting a road through an amorphous
conglomeration of ice for quite three-quarters of a mile. The pack over
which we were travelling appeared to consist of numerous small floes,
the largest being barely one hundred yards across at its widest
diameter, but the majority much smaller, and each of these floes was
surrounded by a mass of hummocks piled up and lying one on top of the
other to the height of twenty and thirty feet: the belts of hummocks
being from thirty to forty yards in breadth.

Observing one large hummock to be very much discoloured, we found, on
approach, that this discolouration was caused by the adhesion of mud or
clay, a line of which extended for some distance along the edge of the
floe, and gave one the idea that it had rubbed against, or in some
manner had come into contact with, the shore. Mud it undoubtedly was,
and we bottled a quantity of it for the purpose of subjecting it to
microscopic investigation when we should return on board. This was
conclusive evidence that a periodical, if not an annual, disruption of
the pack occurs, and that these floes, although now at such a distance
from the land, had at some time or another been in very close
proximity. Moreover, this must have occurred at a recent date,
otherwise the summer thaws and the autumn snow would have obliterated
all such traces as those we had discovered.

_May 5th._--The weather was still as thick as pea-soup! However, we were
able to avail ourselves of the road that we had constructed yesterday,
and moved our camp so far. To do this, although the road was fairly good
and the distance only three-quarters of a mile, the time occupied was
four and a half hours! The scene that surrounded our encampment was a
dreary one indeed--a desolate, cold, and inhospitable scene: everything
of the same uniform colour; no object to relieve the eye; no signs of
life; nothing to break the stillness and solitude of this waste of snow
and ice. Surely Shelley must have contemplated such a scene when he
wrote the following lines:

  "Those wastes of frozen billows that were hurled
   By everlasting snow-storms round the Poles,
   Where matters dared not vegetate nor live,
   But ceaseless frost round the vast solitude
   Bound the broad zone of stillness."

It was a relief, indeed, to turn from such a scene, and rest the eye
upon our little encampment, while listening to the cheerful voices of
our men, as, oblivious to hardship and suffering, they sat "yarning," in
their tents, and relating to each other their adventures in other parts
of the globe. To our great satisfaction and comfort the temperature was
at, or about, zero all day, and for the first time, since leaving the
ship, we were able to eat our bacon without in the first place thawing
it in our tea!

_May 6th._--A fine, bright day; but the rest of yesterday had produced
no beneficial results. Our invalids were gradually getting worse; even
those who were apparently in good health complained of aching limbs, and
exhibited some of the first symptoms of those who were already ailing.
Four of the men had also been suffering for the last few days from snow
blindness, though not in a severe form. A suger of lead lotion afforded
them great relief, and acted as a cure. We had been so far extremely
fortunate in our comparative exemption from this painful and irritating
affliction. We must attribute our immunity from it to the constant use
of our snow-goggles, which were never taken off until the time of
"bagging!"

In getting under weigh in the morning, and also when we are encamping,
the sick men cause us no little delay; for they are perfectly helpless,
and require assistance in every little detail connected with their
dressing and undressing, being totally incapacitated from doing anything
themselves.

The travelling was very heavy. We appeared to have arrived at a perfect
barrier of hummocks, with portions of large floes intermixed, all broken
and squeezed up together and covered with deep snow. As far as reaching
a high latitude was concerned, we might as well have turned back at
once, for our advance must needs be slow; but it was not impossible that
this sea of hummocks, with which we were contending, might be the limit
of our rough road, and that if we could succeed in struggling through
them for a few miles, we might emerge upon large and level floes on
which we should be able to travel with greater ease and celerity.
Possibly the rugged nature of the ice might be due to the junction of
two tides, which, from the commotion produced, would create the
obstacles that were impeding our progress. After halting for the night,
a party of men were employed road-making whilst the tents were being
pitched and supper preparing. All were very glad to get into their bags
and rest after the fatigues of the day. A slight air from the S.E. sent
the temperature down rapidly to 11° below zero. The minus quantities
still prevailed.

_May 7th._--We started this morning carrying three of our invalids; but
before we had gone many yards it became painfully evident that the two
others were quite unable to walk, although the gallant fellows struggled
along manfully.

Our only resource was to advance the sledges and then return with them
empty to bring on the other disabled sufferers. We had now a third of
our little band _hors de combat_, our strength was diminishing daily,
and our weights on the sledges in consequence were increasing. The
travelling appeared to be getting, if possible, worse; the hummocks were
higher and the snow-drifts deeper. One of the former, on being measured
by means of a lead line, was found to be, from the top of the floe to
its summit, forty-three feet three inches.

We halted earlier than usual, and, having constructed a pedestal for the
magnetic instrument out of solid snow, obtained a series of observations
for the inclination of the needle and for the total magnetic force.

_May 8th._--We at length forced ourselves to believe that the disease
from which our men were suffering was really scurvy. We issued to those
who were afflicted daily allowances of lime-juice from the small stock
that we brought away with us.

But it was with the utmost difficulty that a small allowance for each
could be thawed. The lime-juice was in two bottles. On putting one near
the cooking apparatus to thaw, the bottle cracked and fell to pieces. At
last I adopted the plan of placing the other bottle between my legs when
in the sleeping-bag, and, after a long time, I succeeded in thawing a
small quantity. But it is now known that this was of no use; for the
state of the lime-juice used by Dr. Coppinger at Polaris Bay showed that
the whole volume must be thawed and remixed before it can be used with
any advantage. This can only be done in the warmer weather of June or
July.

The loss of appetite, depression of spirits, with other symptoms were,
we thought, decidedly scorbutic, and we feared, without fresh meat and
vegetables, that there was little chance of seeing the sick men on the
drag-ropes again during the journey. Being a fine, bright day, the
invalids were made to come out and bask in the sun, whilst the rest of
the party, with pickaxes and shovels, were engaged in cutting a road
through the hummocks. A double series of magnetic observations were
obtained, together with sights for latitude, longitude, and variation of
the compass. The hummocks amongst which our tents were pitched were of
various heights and bulk, from small fragments of ice to huge piles over
forty feet high. Some of them consisted of a number of small hummocks
squeezed up into one large mass, whilst others were apparently the
regular floe-bergs, and, although perhaps of greater bulk, were not
quite so high.

Between these hummocks, and consequently along the only road where we
could drag our sledges, the snow had accumulated in drifts to a great
depth, and this, formed into ridges by the wind, rendered the travelling
all the more difficult. Occasionally the tops of these ridges were
frozen hard, and it was of no uncommon occurrence to step from deep
snow, through which we were floundering up to our waists, on to a hard,
frozen piece, or _vice versâ_.

Sometimes these ridges were only partially frozen, or covered with a
slight crust, just hard enough _not_ to bear our weights, and this made
it exceedingly disagreeable and laborious to travel over.

_May 9th._--Another beautifully warm day, with the temperature only a
degree or two below zero! It was impossible to remain idle on such a
day, so we resolved to push on.

Lightening two of the sledges of about half their loads, two of the sick
men were placed on them, and these were dragged to the limit of the road
made yesterday. Here the tent was pitched, the two invalids placed
inside, the sledge unpacked and dragged back. In this manner we
succeeded in advancing during the day a distance of about three-quarters
of a mile; but so tortuous was our road, and so often had it to be
traversed, that to accomplish this short distance we had to walk about
seven miles, and this through very deep snow. Rawlings, Simpson, and
Ferbrache were complaining of aching limbs, and their legs exhibited
slight discolouration.

_May 10th._--We advanced the sledges in the same manner as yesterday,
accomplishing about the same distance; but so distressing was it to see
the exertions of the men in their endeavours to perform a good day's
work, and so painful was it to witness the sufferings of the sick, that
I very reluctantly came to the conclusion that our camp this evening
must be our most northern one. With five of my little force disabled,
and as many more showing decided scorbutic symptoms, it would have been
imprudent to persevere farther, however much inclination might prompt
such a proceeding. Besides, our provisions must be taken into
consideration, and we had only thirty days left to take us back a
distance that occupied us forty days to advance, so that our turning
back became an imperative necessity. We might, I think, console
ourselves with the knowledge that the motto engraved on my flagstaff,
and which had been presented to me by my friend and former Captain, now
Commodore A. H. Hoskins, had been fully carried out. It was happily
chosen, and although the lines are expressed in the first personal
pronoun they had reference to the whole party:

  "I dare do all that may become a man:
   Who dares do more is none."

We felt that the absence of any greater success could not be attributed
either to a lack of energy or of perseverence. It was, however, a bitter
ending to all our aspirations, for which even the knowledge of being
homeward bound failed to compensate. In justice to my brave companions I
must say that no men could have done more under the same circumstances.

_May 11th._--Having arrived at the determination of dragging the sledges
no farther in a northerly direction, I deemed it desirable to try what
good two days' perfect rest would do for our invalids; and, as there
were many useful observations to be taken in this high latitude, I
determined to devote the two following days to obtaining them. As soon
as breakfast was discussed, a snow pedestal was erected for the
instrument for determining the magnetic force and inclination of the
needle, a double series of observations being obtained. Sights were
taken in order to fix our position both by latitude and longitude, and
also for the variation of the compass.[1]

Some of the men were employed in cutting a hole through young ice that
existed between the hummocks in order that we might obtain deep sea
temperatures with a Casella's thermometer, which we had brought with us
for the purpose.

In three hours this work was accomplished, the ice being only sixty-four
inches in thickness. On attempting to get soundings, to our great
surprise we succeeded in finding bottom in seventy-one fathoms (four
hundred and twenty-six feet).

At this depth we managed to obtain, by various contrivances that were
lowered down, a specimen of the bottom, which was carefully bottled, in
order to be carried to the ship, there to undergo microscopic
examination.

[Illustration: HIGHEST NORTHERN CAMP.]

Wishing to possess any specimens of animal life that might exist in this
high latitude, a bread bag, filled with the scrapings of our pannikins
and a little pemmican, was lowered to the bottom, and, having been kept
there some hours, was hauled up, and to our great joy found to be almost
alive with numerous small crustaceans[2] and foraminifera; specimens
of which were, of course, collected and preserved, being the most
northern animal life yet discovered. With our thermometer a series of
temperatures was taken at every ten fathoms, whilst the specific gravity
of the surface water was also obtained.

Tidal action was apparent; but, with the means at our disposal, we were
unable to observe the rise and fall of the tide, or to make any accurate
measurement regarding it. Altogether the day was not unprofitably spent.

_May 12th._--This 12th of May must always be regarded as an eventful day
in the lives of our little party, for it was that on which we had the
honour, and no small gratification, of planting the Union Jack on the
most northern limit of the globe ever attained by civilized man, or, in
fact, so far as our knowledge goes, by mortal man! In order to insure
being within four hundred miles of the North Pole, we started
immediately after breakfast to the northward, carrying with us the
sextant, artificial horizon, and all our colours and banners. We were a
party of ten,[3] two men being left behind to attend to the wants of the
five who were sick, and who were left comfortably settled inside the
tents.

The walking was undoubtedly severe, at one moment struggling through
deep snow-drifts, in which we floundered up to our waists, and at
another tumbling about amongst the hummocks.

Some idea may be formed of the difficulties of the road, when, after
more than two hours' hard walking, with little or nothing to carry, we
had barely accomplished one mile!

Shortly before noon a halt was called, the artificial horizon set up,
and the flags and sledge standards displayed. Fortunately the sun was
favourable to us, and we were able to obtain a good altitude as it
passed the meridian, although almost immediately afterwards dark clouds
rolled up, snow began to fall, and the sun was lost in obscurity.

We found the latitude to be 83° 20´ 26´´ N., or three hundred and
ninety-nine miles and a half from the North Pole. The announcement of
our position was received with three cheers, with one more for Captain
Nares; then all sang the "Union Jack of Old England," our "Grand
Palæocrystic Sledging Chorus," winding up, like loyal subjects, with
"God save the Queen."

No words of mine could describe the scene that surrounded us better than
those of Coleridge in his "Ancient Mariner":

  "The ice was here, the ice was there,
   The ice was all around."

For nought else but snow and ice could be seen in any direction.

In spite, however, of these dreary surroundings, suggesting everything
that was desolate and miserable, mirth, happiness, and joy seemed to
reign paramount amongst our little party. Perhaps there was something
in the idea of having been farther north than any other man had hitherto
penetrated, that promoted such feelings! Whatever produced them, they
were shared in by all. Even the sick, on our return to camp, prostrate
and suffering as they were, participated in the general hilarity and
rejoicing. They knew their toilsome journey had terminated, and that
each day would bring them nearer to their ship and to those supplies
that were necessary to save their lives.

On returning to the tents, a magnum of whiskey, kindly sent by the "Dean
of Dundee," for the express purpose of being drunk at our highest
northern position, was broached, and for supper we had divided amongst
the two sledge crews a hare that had been shot by Dr. Moss on the third
day after leaving the ship. Could men in our position want more? Never
were the bones of a hare picked so clean! No dog would have benefited
much from the scraps remaining from our repast!

Absent friends were duly toasted, and the evening was brought to a close
with songs, in which even the invalids joined. All appeared happy,
cheerful, and contented.


FOOTNOTES:

  [1] The original from which the annexed illustration is a copy, was
    painted by Admiral R. B. Beechey, and exhibited in the Royal Academy
    in 1877. It is now in the possession of Mr. Clements Markham.

  [2] _Anonyx nugax_, a fine adult male example, and several smaller
    ones. The length of the largest specimen is 1½ inch. This species is
    one of the commonest and most abundantly distributed of the northern
    _Amphipoda_. It was discovered by Captain Phipps in 1773, and is
    found along the shores of Arctic America, in the White Sea, on the
    coasts of Greenland, Iceland, Spitzbergen, Norway, and in the Sea of
    Okhotsk.

  [3] The names of these men are--Commander A. H. Markham, Lieutenant
    A. A. C. Parr, Thos. Rawlings, Ed. Lawrence, John Radmore, Thos.
    Jolliffe, Daniel Harley, Wm. Ferbrache, Wm. Maskell, and John
    Pearson.




CHAPTER XXIV.

RETURN OF THE NORTHERN DIVISION.


  "Is not short payne well borne, that brings long ease,
   And layes the soule to sleepe in quiet grace?
   Sleepe after toyle, port after stormie seas,
   Ease after warre, death after life, does greatly please."

    _Faërie Queene._

At three o'clock on the afternoon of the 13th of May the homeward march
was commenced, our main object, of course, being to get back to the ship
as speedily as possible.

Before starting, a couple of records, inclosed in two tin cases, were
deposited on the floe. One was placed as near the centre of the floe as
possible, the other was secured on the top of a hummock.

On the records was stated the latitude and longitude of the position,
together with a few words regarding the condition of the party. If these
are ever picked up it will be very interesting and important, as
throwing light on the drift or tide in these high latitudes.

It is unnecessary to describe the incidents that occurred on each
successive day during the return journey. Day by day did our strength
diminish. Gradually, but surely, the men, one after the other, began to
feel the cruel grasp of the disease, as they struggled manfully on,
dragging their poor, helpless companions, in spite of racking pains and
aching limbs. Although themselves attacked by the dreadful malady, the
men who were still able to work suppressed their own sufferings in their
endeavours to ameliorate those of their more helpless and ailing
comrades. Unmindful of their own miserable plight, they devoted
themselves to the tender and soothing functions of nurses with a
thoughtful and careful tenderness that would have done credit even to
those of the weaker sex.

Often had the same road to be traversed, as the sledges were advanced
one at a time, and most fortunate was it that we were able to adhere to
the road constructed during our outward journey. To do so, however,
during the thick weather which constantly prevailed, was a task of great
difficulty and very trying to the eyes; but we knew that if by ill-luck
we should wander away and lose it, our chances of ever seeing the ship
again would be poor indeed! The hours selected for travelling were
between 6 P.M. and 6 A.M. By choosing this part of the day, or rather
night, for working, we kept the sun as much as possible at our backs,
and slept during the warmth of the day. Towards the end of May, although
the temperature of the outside air was below the freezing point, the sun
was so powerful that it would raise the temperature inside our tent,
whilst we were sleeping, to as much as 70° or 80°, which would be quite
unbearable! Frost-bites had become a thing of the past, and were no
longer dreaded. The temperature did not rise above the freezing point
until the month of June.

Snow fell heavily during the greater part of the return journey, and
fogs were very prevalent. Gales of wind had to be endured, for to halt
was out of the question--rest there was none--onward was the order of
the day.

As the disease gradually assumed the mastery over the party, so did the
appetites decrease, and in a very alarming manner, until it was with the
greatest difficulty that anybody could be induced to eat at all. Instead
of each man disposing of one pound of pemmican a day, the same quantity
sufficed for the entire party in one tent; and even this, occasionally,
was not consumed. Nor was the subject of eating and drinking so often
discussed. During the outward journey, beefsteaks and onions, mutton
chops and new potatoes, and Bass's beer formed the chief topics of
conversation. On the return journey they were scarcely alluded to.
Hunger was never felt; but we were all assailed by an intolerable
thirst, which could only be appeased at meal times, or after the
temperature was sufficiently high to admit of quenching our thirst by
putting icicles into our mouths.

Aching bones and sleepless nights were the chief causes of our
sufferings.

With all these hardships it was a great comfort to be able to put on dry
foot gear. If it was fine when we encamped, our blanket wrappers and
hose were spread out on the tent in the sun, so that when we got up they
were not only dry, but _not frozen_, and were, therefore, limp and
supple!

On the 17th of May we again, strange to say, crossed the track of a
hare, being at the time about twenty-five miles from the nearest land.
Like the track before seen, the footsteps were close together,
indicating that the poor little creature was in a very exhausted state.
Although the traces were very indistinct, they appeared to be going in a
northerly direction.

Though our travelling was slow, we could see a perceptible decrease in
the distance between ourselves and the land, whenever the weather was
fine enough for us to observe it. "Old Joe," as the men irreverently
termed Cape Joseph Henry, loomed nearer and darker, and we all regarded
it with anxious, longing eyes.

On the 18th of May the first icicles were observed hanging from the
edges of a few hummocks--a sure sign of the returning power of the sun.

Ominous symptoms of a disruption of the pack were seen on the same day,
and again on the following one. A crack in some ice had opened
considerably since we last passed over it, whilst small hummocks had
been formed by the pressure of two floes, one against the other. These
little indications made matters assume a still more serious aspect. They
may have been due to tidal action, but they were undoubtedly warnings to
get off the pack as speedily as possible.

On the 20th the snow crystals that fell actually melted on coming into
contact with our clothes or any dark substance. These crystals were all
of a beautiful stellar shape. A hummock passed, although composed,
apparently, of one piece of ice, was of two different colours, a deep
blue and a pale yellow. Portions of each were broken off for the purpose
of testing their respective specific gravities, and also to carry back
to the ship for analysis. In all probability the discolouration was
caused by the presence of diatomaceæ. The hummocks, at about this date,
began to assume a different appearance, the mild weather depriving them
of their snowy covering, and causing them to lose much of their former
resemblance to gigantic wedding cakes!

The men began to have an inkling of the nature of the disease from which
they were suffering, although we studiously avoided all mention of it.
It went with them by the name of the "Joseph Henry mange!" Their spirits
were wonderful, and they joked each other as they hobbled along. Their
lameness they called the "Marco Polo limp," and declared on their return
to England they would introduce it as the fashionable gait!

Nothing appeared to subdue their courage or their zeal. Orders were
always executed with the utmost willingness and good humour, and with as
much alacrity as they were capable of evincing.

The men having heard that tea-leaves had been recommended as a good
_vegetable_, the contents of the tea-kettle, after lunch and supper,
were carefully collected, and devoured with avidity; but there is little
faith, I fear, to be placed in their efficacy for warding off or
subduing our terrible complaint.

Instead of our sledge loads appearing to diminish in weight as the
provisions were consumed, they seemed to drag heavier, and we were at a
loss whether to attribute this to the depth and softness of the snow
over which we travelled, or to the increasing weakness of our party! It
was hard work, and as much as we could do to make any progress at all.
The men experienced great difficulty in moving their legs, the slightest
exertion caused intense pain, and it was a piteous sight to witness
them struggling bravely on, without uttering a murmur or complaint.
They all knew that their only hope of safety was to get back to the ship
as speedily as possible.

The 24th of May being the Queen's birthday, all the flags and banners
were displayed during the short time we halted for lunch, and her
Majesty's health was drunk by her most northern and not least loyal
subjects. On that day, amongst the entire party, we could only muster
four and a half good and sound pairs of legs! Still even those with
"game legs" stuck to the drag-ropes nobly, and if they were unable to
render much assistance, still the drag-ropes acted as a support, and
therefore enabled them to keep up.

On the 25th the eighty-third parallel of latitude was recrossed.

The comparatively high temperature caused the snow over which we
journeyed to assume a "sludgy" consistency, which clung tenaciously to
our legs and to the sledge runners, rendering the work of dragging and
walking all the more laborious.

On the 27th the condition of the party was so critical that it became
only too painfully evident that, to insure their reaching the land
alive, the sledges must be considerably lightened in order to admit of a
more rapid advance. The state of the party was on that day as follows:
five men were in a very precarious condition, utterly unable to move,
and consequently had to be carried on the sledges; five others nearly as
bad, but who nobly persisted in hobbling after the sledges, which they
could just manage to accomplish, for, as the sledges had to be advanced
one by one, it gave them plenty of time to perform the distance; whilst
three others exhibited all the premonitory scorbutic symptoms. Thus only
the two officers and two men[1] could be considered as effective! This
was, it must be acknowledged, a very deplorable state of affairs.

I therefore decided to abandon the remaining boat, which would
materially lessen the load to be dragged. This decision was only arrived
at after long and anxious consideration. I had to decide which was the
lesser of two evils.

For I well knew that should a disruption of the pack occur, and we had
already observed ominous signs of such an event, without a boat the
party would indeed be placed in a hopeless position; but again I knew
that in retaining the boat, the weights to be dragged by our weakened
crew would be so excessive as to preclude the possibility of reaching
the shore before all the provisions would be expended, and starvation
would be the result. Again it was of the utmost importance that haste
should be made in order to reach the ship, and place the sick under
proper medical treatment. The disease was extending so rapidly as to
produce a marked change for the worse every day. The boat, therefore,
and all superfluous weights were abandoned, and the march was again
wearily resumed.

Many a silent prayer was offered up to God to protect and watch over us,
for we felt, indeed, that we were in dire distress, and that without His
aid and assistance we must perish; and we prayed for strength to enable
us to drag our poor helpless and suffering companions to a place of
safety. A record was left in the deserted boat, containing a brief
account of our state and condition, with the latitude and longitude
where it was abandoned.

[Illustration: SNOW BUNTING]

On the following day great excitement was caused by the appearance of a
snow bunting, which was seen fluttering about amongst the hummocks,
uttering its sweet and pleasant chirp, which to us was the most pleasing
music we had heard for many a long day. No wonder the sudden appearance
amongst us of this little warbler was so interesting, for it was the
first bird we had seen for nine long months. Even the invalids, as they
lay on the sledges, requested that they might have their faces
uncovered, so as both to see and hear the little friend that had flown
off to us, as if it were a messenger to welcome our party back to life
and friends. Long and anxiously was it watched as it winged its course
towards the land, whither we also were slowly wending our way.

On the 29th the colours were again displayed at lunch time, in
commemoration of the first anniversary of our sailing from England, and
allusions were made to that ever-memorable day, comparisons being drawn
between our condition then and now! On that evening our tents were
pitched close to the boat that we had abandoned on our outward journey,
and which we found exactly in the same state as when we left it, with
its mast stepped and yard hoisted, standing out like a grim sentinel
guarding those icy wastes.

On the 31st, whilst crossing some young ice between two heavy floes, one
of the sledges broke through, and we had no little trouble in saving it
from complete immersion, and the invalid who was on it from being
drowned! These warnings were unmistakeable, and pointed to the necessity
of reaching the land as quickly as possible. The falling snow and drift
thawed upon our clothes, making us wet and extremely wretched and
uncomfortable.

On the 1st of June the temperature was some two or three degrees above
freezing point. This had the effect of thawing the surface snow and
converting it into a thick sludge. Our foot gear in consequence was in a
soaking wet state. Our working force on this day was reduced to six, and
all suffering more or less.

On the 2nd the thick weather, which had so persistently clung to us,
proved triumphant and robbed us of our road. Up to this date we had been
able to avail ourselves of the road constructed with so much trouble and
labour on our outward journey. On this day we wandered off it, and in
spite of our efforts were unable to pick up the trail again. The severe
and monotonous labour of road-making had again to be resorted to. On the
5th, to our very great joy, we succeeded once more in pitching our camp
on _terra firma_, after an absence from it of two months. On first
landing our hopes were excited on observing the recent traces of a
sledge and human footprints, and we congratulated ourselves upon soon
obtaining that relief we all so much required; but we were doomed to
disappointment, for on reaching the depôt of provisions established near
Cape Joseph Henry for our use, and which was found intact, we learnt
that a sledge party with Captain Nares had left for the ship only two
days previously! This was a bitter blow, for we knew that something more
than provisions was needed for the safety of the party.

We learnt also that scurvy had made its appearance on board the "Alert,"
and that poor Petersen died from the effects of his last sledge journey,
on the 14th of May.

Three hares had been kindly and thoughtfully left for us in a crevice
amongst the hummocks by Captain Nares, and this furnished us with meals
for a couple of days; it is needless to add, they were done ample
justice to, not only for the sake of their goodness and the change they
afforded, but also because we thought the fresh meat would act as a
specific against the scurvy.

The tracks of a wolf were observed near the depôt, and the animal was
frequently heard howling in a mournful manner, but we never saw it.

Obtaining a few supplies from the depôt, our march was again resumed;
but so rapid had been the encroachments of the disease, that it was
only too palpable that immediate succour was absolutely necessary for
our salvation. At the rate of progress we were making, it would take us
fully three weeks to reach the ship, although only forty miles distant;
and who would there be left in three weeks' time? The few who were still
strong enough to drag the sledges would barely last as many days!
Assistance had, therefore, to be obtained. To procure it, one amongst us
was ready and willing to set out on this lonely and solitary mission,
with the firm reliance of being able to accomplish what he had
undertaken, and with the knowledge that he possessed the full confidence
of those for whose relief he was about to start on a long and hazardous
walk. On the 7th of June Lieut. Parr started on his arduous march to the
ship. Deep and heartfelt were the God-speeds uttered as he took his
departure, and anxiously was his retreating form watched until it was
gradually lost to sight amidst the interminable hummocks.

  "All waste! no sign of life
   But the track of the wolf and the bear!
   No sound but the wild, wild wind,
   And the snow crunching under his feet."

Although the loss of one strong man, like Parr, from the party was
seriously felt, still the knowledge that active steps had been taken to
procure aid was sufficient to compensate for this reduction in our
strength, and the men gallantly persevered at the drag-ropes, buoyed up
by renewed hopes.

On the day previous to that on which Parr left, an Eskimo dog, to our
great surprise, was seen threading its way to us through the hummocks.
It was soon recognized to be one of our dogs, named Flo; but she was so
timid that at first nothing would induce her to approach. After a little
time, however, we coaxed her to us, and on having some pemmican thrown
to her she ate it ravenously. Poor thing! she was wretchedly thin and
emaciated; she, we concluded, had been cast adrift, or made her escape
from the last dog-sledge that visited this neighbourhood. She joined our
tail of cripples, hobbling, like them, after us and carefully walking in
the track of our sledges.

On the 8th of June sadness and despondency prevailed amongst our little
band. One of our number had received that summons to which all must at
some time attend, and had been called to his long account.

  "His soul to Him who gave it rose.
   God led it to its long repose--
   Its glorious rest."

This was a terrible and unexpected blow to many who regarded themselves
as being in a still more critical and precarious condition than was poor
Porter. His end was calm and peaceful, and he retained his senses to
within five minutes of the time of dissolution.

Sad and mournful, indeed, was the small procession that wended its way
slowly to the new-made grave, dug out of a frozen soil, carrying the
lifeless remains of their comrade, covered with the Union Jack, on the
same sledge on which he had been dragged, whilst alive, for many weeks;
and there, with the tears trickling down their weather-beaten and
smoke-begrimed faces, with their hearts so full as to choke all
utterance, they laid their late fellow-sufferer in his last
resting-place.

A rude cross, improvised out of the rough materials that our own
equipment supplied, with a brief inscription, marks the lone and dreary
spot in that far-off icy desert where rests our comrade in his long
sleep that knows no waking, and where probably human foot will never
again tread.

  "O World! so few the years we live,
   Would that the life that thou dost give
     Were life indeed!
   Alas! thy sorrows fall so fast,
   Our happiest hour is when at last
     The soul is freed."

Gladly, after the ceremony was concluded, was the order to renew the
march received, every one being desirous of quitting a place so fraught
with sad and melancholy associations; the day, as if in unison with the
state of our own thoughts and feelings, was dull and gloomy.

The late mournful event produced a despondency in our little band to
which we had hitherto been strangers.

One and all felt and knew that assistance, to be of any avail, must
arrive speedily, and many a wistful glance was directed towards the
south, in the faint hope of seeing that succour without which they would
surely perish. They felt more their own weakness and helplessness, and
dreaded a recurrence of what had recently taken place. The journey was
silently and wearily resumed.

As many of the men were unable to eat their pemmican, on account of the
soreness of their gums, and from a certain dislike that they had lately
taken to it, a new "dish" was tried, consisting of preserved potatoes
mixed with bacon fat, and although in flavour, if any was perceptible,
it rather resembled what starch might be like, it was decidedly
acceptable as a change, and each person consumed about two-thirds of a
pannikin.

On the morning of the 9th a rainbow was seen, which, being an unusual
sight, afforded much interest. On the same day, shortly after the march
had been commenced, a moving object was suddenly seen amidst the
hummocks to the southward. At first it was regarded as an optical
illusion, for we could scarcely realize the fact that it could be
anybody from the "Alert!" With what intense anxiety this object was
regarded is beyond description.

Gradually emerging from the hummocks, a hearty cheer put an end to the
suspense that was almost agonizing, as a dog-sledge with three men was
seen to be approaching. A cheer in return was attempted, but so full
were our hearts that it resembled more a wail than a cheer.

It is impossible to describe our feelings as May and Moss came up, and
we received from them a warm and hearty welcome. We felt that we were
saved, and a feeling of thankfulness and gratitude was uppermost in our
minds, as we shook the hands of those who had hurried out to our relief
the moment that Parr had conveyed to them intelligence of our distress.
Those who a few short moments before were in the lowest depths of
despondency, appeared now in the most exuberant spirits. Pain was
disregarded and hardships were forgotten as numerous and varied
questions were asked and answered.

We heard with delight that they were only the vanguard of a larger
party, headed by Captain Nares himself, that was coming out to our
relief, and which we should probably meet on the following day. A halt
was immediately ordered, cooking utensils lighted up, ice made into
water, and we were soon all enjoying a good pannikin full of lime-juice,
with the prospect of mutton for supper!

After halting for the night Moss made a thorough medical inspection of
the whole party. His report was by no means cheering: all were more or
less affected, and some were in a very precarious condition. The
presence, however, of a medical officer amongst us restored confidence,
and acted as a powerful antiscorbutic!

On the following day we met the larger party coming out to our
assistance, and with their help arrived alongside the "Alert" on the
14th of June, seventy-two days after our departure from the ship.

What a contrast did that departure afford to our return!

Then, on that bright but cold April morning, all were in the highest
spirits, cheerful and enthusiastic, looking forward with confidence to a
comparatively successful issue to their undertaking--a fine, strong, and
resolute band.

Alas! how different was the return! Out of that party of fifteen men,
one had gone to his long home, eleven others were carried alongside the
ship on sledges dragged by a party despatched to their relief, and only
the remaining three were capable of walking.[2] Even they were scarcely
able to move one leg before the other, and were, on their return, placed
with the others under the doctor's hands. It was, indeed, a sad and
terrible calamity with which we had been afflicted, totally unexpected
and unparalleled in the annals of Arctic sledging experiences. On our
arrival alongside the ship, we were, of course, most warmly welcomed by
every soul on board; before entering Captain Nares called for three
cheers for our party, and then offered up thanks to Almighty God for
having preserved us through many dangers and privations, and for guiding
us back to our ship without further loss of life.


FOOTNOTES:

  [1] John Radmore, chief carpenter's mate, and William Maskell, able
    seaman.

  [2] Radmore, Jolliffe, and Maskell.




CHAPTER XXV.

RETURN OF ALL THE SLEDGE TRAVELLERS.


  "Now that the winter's gone, the earth hath lost
   Her snow-white robes, and now no more the frost
   Candies the grass, or calls an icy cream
   Upon the silver lake or crystal stream,
   But the warm sun thaws the benumbed earth."

     CAREW.

The hearty welcome we received from one and all on board the "Alert,"
together with the indescribable pleasure of a warm bath, followed by a
champagne supper for those whom the doctor reported well enough to
indulge in such a luxury, made us all supremely happy; the feeling being
increased by the knowledge that our suffering companions were under the
tender care of kind and skilful hands, and that all responsibility
connected with their treatment had, so far as we were concerned, ceased.
Our late hardships and the anxiety we had felt regarding the safe return
of the party were almost forgotten, and were it not for the number of
cots hanging up outside the ward-room, and the row of beds along the
lower deck, each occupied by a sick man, we should almost have felt
inclined to regard our late sledging expedition as a dream from which we
had suddenly been awakened.

A more thorough break-up of a healthy and strong body of men it would be
difficult to conceive. Not only had the men engaged in the extended
party under my command been attacked with scurvy, but also those who had
been absent from the ship only for short periods, and some, who may be
said never to have left the ship at all, or if they did, only for two or
three days! The disease then could not be attributed to any special
circumstance connected with sledge travelling.

The seeds must have been sown during the time, nearly five months, that
the sun was absent, and we were in darkness. Fresh animal and vegetable
food is undoubtedly necessary for the preservation of health, and its
absence is the originating cause of scurvy. To this originating cause
all Arctic Expeditions have been equally exposed. The predisposing
causes of scurvy, which actually lead to an outbreak when the
originating cause exists, are the long absence of the sun, entailing
darkness, damp, intense cold, and bad ventilation. To these predisposing
causes our expedition was exposed for a very much longer period than any
other which sent out extended travelling parties. For this reason other
expeditions were exempt from scurvy while we were attacked. In short,
the different result was caused by the difference in latitude. As our
winter arrangements, and our scale of diet, both on board and while
travelling, were identical with those of former expeditions, the cause
of the outbreak could not have had anything to do either with diet or
winter routine. Lime-juice, though most useful in warding off for a time
and delaying an attack of scurvy, and as a cure, will not, with other
circumstances unfavourable, prevent an outbreak. This is the opinion of
all the best medical authorities; and our experience proved it to be an
undoubted fact. Some of our men had scurvy who never left the ship and
never ceased to take their daily rations of lime-juice, and others were
attacked who went away travelling at a time when daily rations of
lime-juice formed a part of the sledge dietary.[1]

In future, when an expedition winters in so high a latitude as 82° N.,
the prevention of an outbreak of scurvy must be secured by improved
measures for mitigating the predisposing causes.

Owing to the condition of the crew of the "Alert," Captain Nares
publicly announced, on the 16th of June, that on the return of the
sledge parties, he would endeavour to rejoin the "Discovery," and would
then send that vessel to England with all the invalids, and those unfit
to remain out a second winter. The "Alert" would pass her second winter
at Port Foulke, whence, in the ensuing spring, parties would be
despatched for the purpose of exploring Hayes Sound, and the adjacent
land. This work completed, that vessel also would return to England. The
reason that Port Foulke was selected as our future winter quarters was
the amount of animal life, principally reindeer, reported to abound in
that neighbourhood, and we also anticipated little or no difficulty in
breaking out in the following summer.

This resolution was undoubtedly a wise one, for it was certain that in
the then state of the ship's company of the "Alert," many lives would be
sacrificed if all the men were required to spend another winter in the
Arctic Regions. The idea of soon reaching England acted as a cure upon
those who were in the worst stage of scurvy, and conduced more to their
recovery than all the medicines and careful nursing that they received
from our painstaking and attentive doctor.

In the mean time great anxiety began to be felt regarding the safety of
the western sledge party under Aldrich. From the wholesale manner in
which the northern division had been afflicted, it was feared that they
also would not pass scathless.

Still we hoped they would not suffer to the same extent. Their route was
along the coast line, and it was expected that they would have been able
to supply themselves occasionally with fresh provisions, such as hares,
geese, and perhaps musk-oxen.

On the 18th of June, four days after the return of my party, May, with
three men and the dog-sledge, dragged by our remaining six dogs, left
the ship in order to obtain intelligence of Aldrich's party, and if
necessary to take him relief and assistance. The succeeding days were
anxious ones to all on board, and many were the trips taken to the
summit of Look-out-hill, in the hope of seeing the returning sledgers.
We could not disguise from ourselves the fact that unless they returned
quickly they would be placed in a very critical position. In a few days
they must be without provisions. This we knew. The temperature, too, had
reached freezing point, and frequently stood two or three degrees above
it, causing the surface snow to thaw, and therefore making the task of
dragging a sledge one of severe and unpleasant toil.

On the 21st the sun reached its highest northern declination, and every
day would bring us nearer to another winter; therefore we knew that to
effect our deliverance from the ice this year, it was necessary to get
our sledging parties on board as soon as possible, in order to prepare
the ship for sea, and to commence the operations requisite for cutting
her out of winter quarters.

The snow on the hills to the northward of us was rapidly disappearing;
but this might only be due to their southern aspect, for in our
immediate vicinity the snow appeared as deep as ever. Towards the latter
end of May the hills around the ship were perfectly bare; but the heavy
fall of snow, experienced by us during our return journey, had again
covered them as they were during the winter.

Water began to form in little pools on the floes near the ship, and
every sign betokened the approaching disruption of the pack. On the
23rd, a few king ducks, some Arctic terns, and skuas were seen hovering
about the land, and one or two specimens of the latter were shot--their
skins swelling our natural history collection, their bodies being
reserved for the sick.

On Sunday, June 25th, immediately after Divine Service, on ascending
Look-out-hill, to our very great delight we observed the wanderers
struggling through the hummocks some six or seven miles off. Hurrying
down to communicate the good news, a relief party was speedily formed,
and by midnight we had the very great satisfaction of receiving them all
on board. It was the old story repeated. All were suffering from scurvy,
and only Aldrich and two men were able to walk alongside the ship, one
of the latter being so bad that he was under medical treatment for many
weeks after his return on board.

Their absence from the ship extended over a period of eighty-four days,
during which they did very good service, having explored no less than
two hundred and twenty miles of new coast line. May found them near Cape
Joseph Henry, not far from the spot where he had before brought succour
to my party. They were then struggling bravely on, but were in a very
crippled condition. It is most fortunate he succeeded in reaching them
when he did. His cheery spirit and strong help did much to assist them,
and enabled Aldrich to bring his little party alongside their Arctic
home in undiminished numbers. It was a great relief to all on board to
know that every one had returned, that no stragglers were absent. So
great was the anxiety felt until all the sledging parties had arrived,
that the lot of those on board was hardly more enviable than that of the
travellers!

Our good ship was now converted into a regular hospital, and might
almost be said to be in charge of the medical officers; for those who
were not actually under treatment had to be placed at the disposal of
the doctor, so as to act as nurses, cooks, or attendants of some kind.
Perfect rest and careful nursing were the most essential requisites for
a complete restoration to health. Spenser must have had the recovery of
similar wayworn and stricken travellers in his mind when he wrote--

  "Now when their wearie limbes with kindly reste
   And bodies were refresht with dew repast."

The medical staff were unremitting in their ceaseless attention to their
patients, and it was to their untiring watchfulness that we owed the
complete recovery of our sick.

Much had to be done to get the ship ready for sea; but, for some time,
only a few officers and _three_ men could be employed in any work
connected with these preparations, the remainder being engaged entirely
with their duties to the sick. The principal work that had to be done,
before the ice broke up round the ship, was to get on board and stow
away all our powder, besides the provisions and stores that had been
landed before the winter. The housing had long been taken down, and the
upper deck had been partially cleared of snow, so that daylight was once
more admitted through the skylights and illuminators. It is a curious
fact connected with those who were for a long period absent from their
ship, that the hair on their faces became perfectly bleached, until in
fact it was nearly white. The loss of colour was gradual, and, although
noticed, was never alluded to, each one imagining that his companion's
hair was turning grey from the effects of hardship and anxiety! It was
only after our return to the ship that those possessing beards and
moustaches discovered the change that had occurred. The colour returned
in the same gradual manner that it had disappeared. We all suffered a
loss of hair from the head; but this may easily be attributed to our
sealskin caps, and other head-dresses, which were constantly worn.

After the long use of moccasins, it took us some time to get accustomed
to leather boots, which we were obliged to wear on account of the sludgy
state of the surface of the floes and the land. With a temperature some
degrees below freezing point, nothing is more comfortable or better
suited for travelling over the pack than a good pair of moccasins.

The return of the sledge travellers was celebrated, on the 29th of June,
by the best dinner we could afford to put on the table. As our
printing-press had long been dismantled, a written _menu_ was given to
myself and Aldrich as the leaders of the two extended sledge parties. A
beautiful sketch of the highest position reached was drawn by Moss, the
following being as near as possible a fac-simile:--

[Illustration: "Marco Polo." Lat. 83° 20´ 26´´ N.]


  MENU.

  Potage olla Podrida.
  Petits Pâtes d'Homards.    Fricassée de Pégouse et Sardines.
  Rognons aux Champignons saucés dans Attrapez-en-haut.
  Rissoles à la Tomato.
  Mâchoire de Boeuf.       Jambon au Champagne.
  Petits Pois.    Carottes.    Ognons.    Pommes de Terre.
  Tourte de Pêches.
  Compote de Blancmange et Rhubarbe Fou.    Pouding en Marmelade.
  Pains rôtis aux Anchois.
  Fromage.    Liqueurs.    Dessert.
  Café noir.

  H.M.S. "Alert."    _29th June, 1876._


On the reverse side of the bill of fare were the following verses
composed by Pullen for the occasion. It is needless to add that they
were not only appreciated, but that they found a response in every
breast:--

  Welcome home to the wished-for rest,
  Travellers to north and travellers to west!
  Welcome back from bristling floe,
  Frowning cliff and quaking snow!
  Nobly, bravely the work was done;
  Inch by inch was the hard fight won.
  Now the toilsome march is o'er,
  Welcome home to our tranquil shore.

  Rough and rude is the feast we bring;
  Rougher and ruder the verse we sing.
  Not rough, not rude are the thoughts that rise
  To choke our voices and dim our eyes,
  As we call to mind that joyous sight
  On an April morning cold and bright,
  When a chosen band stepped boldly forth
  To the unknown west and the unknown north;
  And we from our haven could only pray--
  "God send them strength for each weary day!"

  He heard our prayer; He made them strong;
  He bore their stalwart limbs along;
  Planted their sturdy footsteps sure;
  Gave them courage to endure.
  Taught them, too, for His dear sake,
  Many a sacrifice to make:
  By many a tender woman's deed
  To aid a brother in his need.

  And safe for ever shall He keep
  In His gentle hand the two who sleep.
  His love shall quench the tears that flow
  For the buried dear ones under the snow.
  And we who live and are strong to do,
  His love shall keep us safely too:
  Shall tend our sick, and soothe their pain,
  And bring them back to health again.
  And the breath of His wind shall set us free,
  Through the opening ice to the soft green sea.

Captain Nares had hinted that, in the present condition of the men, and
supposing also that those of the "Discovery" were in the same state, he
would not be justified in allowing even one ship to remain another year
exposed to the rigours of an Arctic winter and to the same causes that
had led to the recent outbreak of scurvy. We were prepared for this
announcement; for we well knew that to remain out a second winter,
although there were many of us ready and eager to do so, would simply be
to sacrifice many valuable lives for no object; for we could not
possibly expect to reach a higher northern latitude, or even to extend
our explorations much farther to the westward, although the whole force
of the expedition should be confined to the one direction. In deciding
to return to England, Captain Nares showed great moral courage, and
exercised a sound and wise judgment, in the opinion of all his officers.

On the Sunday following the return of Aldrich's party, a special
thanksgiving was offered up to Almighty God for our safe return, and
prayers were also said for the speedy recovery of our sick comrades.

On the 1st of July, on the usual monthly medical examination being held,
only ten men out of our fine ship's company were reported in a fit state
for work, and some of these were convalescents! The invalids, however,
thanks to the doctor's assiduous care, were improving slowly but surely.

The thaw had by this time commenced. The snow was soft and wet in the
valleys, small rivulets were already meandering through the ravines and
gorges, whilst the summits of the mountains were covered with brown
patches that the wind and thaw combined had left bare. Little tufts of
the beautiful purple saxifrage dotted the sides of the hills over which
we walked, bringing forcibly to our minds the wild flowers of our own
dear country, and creating a longing desire to behold them once more.
Footprints of animals, notably musk-oxen, were occasionally observed;
but although these traces appeared fresh, they were evidently those of
the preceding autumn, which, having been covered with snow and frozen
hard during the winter, had thus been perfectly preserved.

On the 5th of July, however, we were so fortunate as to shoot three
musk-oxen within three or four miles of the ship, and on the following
morning another fell a victim to the prowess of our sportsmen. This was
indeed a God-send, for without fresh meat the recovery of our sick would
be long and tedious. The actual amount of food obtained from these
animals was at the average rate of 120 lbs. from each. The dexterity
with which the beasts were operated upon after death would have done
credit to the most accomplished butchers. Our first dish of liver and
bacon at breakfast was, it is needless to say, done full justice to--the
only fault being an insufficiency in amount.

Fresh provisions were indispensable for the restoration of the invalids
to health. Shooting parties were, therefore, organized amongst the
officers, and the whole country for a radius of many miles was well
scoured in search of game. These shooting parties were very enjoyable,
especially to those who, like myself, had been engaged on one of the
prolonged sledging expeditions--the contrast being very great. No
anxiety, little or no responsibility, careless of time, and oblivious of
everything save our own pleasure and convenience. Sleeping when we felt
tired, and having our meals when we felt hungry, the night the same as
the day, the sun at midnight being as bright as at noon, free from all
cares, intent only on sport, the time passed in a serene and delightful
manner, and we were truly sorry when the time came to relinquish our
gipsying life for a more civilized one on board.

On one of these shooting tours I was away from the ship, accompanied by
a few choice spirits, for fourteen days. During that time we succeeded
in obtaining a couple of musk-oxen, and several brent geese, which were
a welcome addition to the fresh meat already obtained for the sick on
board the ship. What delightful little meals we used to cook for
ourselves, each one taking his turn, and vying with the others in his
endeavours to make his dishes excel those of his predecessor!

On one occasion we had for breakfast the livers and gizzards of thirteen
geese served up with a little bacon, these being the perquisites of the
sportsmen. In the enjoyment of such luxuries it is not surprising that a
return to the ship, and our everlasting Australian and New Zealand beef
and mutton, was not hailed with delight.

All this time the thaw had been rapidly progressing, the tops of the
hills were bare, and the ravines were rendered almost impassable from
the mountain torrents that dashed down towards the sea, gaining strength
and volume as they neared their outlets. These had to be crossed by the
shooting parties, the water reaching up to our waists, and flowing with
such force as nearly to carry us off our legs. As for change of
clothing, we had none; but on reaching our tents we would get into our
sleeping-bags and leave our wet clothes outside to dry; the temperature
at this time being about 40°. A warm supper, with a pannikin of hot tea,
followed by a glass of grog, soon made us forget the discomforts of the
past in the enjoyment of the present.

[Illustration: BRENT GOOSE AND EIDER DUCKS.]

Some of the scenery, about five or ten miles in the interior, was
extremely picturesque. The spot that we selected for our camp was on the
borders of a lake that formed one of a chain extending to the south
westward. Some of the hills surrounding these lakes were beautifully
carpeted with the pretty little purple saxifrage, a _draba_, a
_potentilla_, and other wild flowers, while the valleys were covered
with patches of luxuriant vegetation, consisting of grasses and
delightfully soft moss. Altogether the aspect of the surrounding country
afforded a striking contrast to what it was but a few short weeks back,
when still wrapped in its wintry garb.

On our return to the ship on the 24th of July, we were glad to hear
that our invalids were progressing favourably, and the convalescents
regaining strength. It was also a source of great gratification to us to
find a broad stream of water forming outside our protecting floe-bergs,
and extending from Point Sheridan to as far south as we could see. This
was a very agreeable and unexpected surprise. Active preparations were
at once made to release the ship from her icy prison. All stores and
provisions were re-embarked, instruments were brought on board and
carefully packed up and put away, boats were hoisted up, the screw
lowered, and the engines reported in good working order. Strict orders
were issued that no one was to be absent from the ship, on any pretence,
for a longer period than four hours without express permission. Any day
might see our release! Anxious eyes were constantly directed towards the
pack, which was now acted upon both by wind and tide, drifting north and
south as it felt their influences.

A large cairn, fully ten feet high, was erected on the summit of "Cairn
Hill," in which was deposited a record stating briefly what had been
accomplished by the expedition, and giving a list of the officers and
men of both ships. To this document each of the former attached his
signature. Will this ever be disturbed by our fellow-men?

Strenuous exertions were made by means of powder to blow up the ice
between the ship and the channel of water that almost tantalized us by
its existence, and so clear a passage by which we could effect our
escape. Countless torpedoes, containing from 1 to 50 lbs. of powder,
were used to accomplish this object, and many hours of hard labour were
expended in the same endeavour. At length, on the morning of the 31st
of July, our exertions were crowned with success, and great was the
excitement on board when hurried orders were issued to raise steam with
all despatch and to prepare for sea! A fresh south-westerly wind had
blown the pack off the shore, leaving a clear channel of water extending
as far as could be seen to the southward.

By 7 A.M. the ship was free and afloat, and at eight o'clock the colours
were hoisted, and we succeeded, without much difficulty, in steaming
clear of the prison that had for eleven long months so securely held us
in its icy fetters.

Who can describe the feelings experienced by all on board the "Alert" on
again hearing the long-silent throbbing of the engines, and knowing that
the ship was once more in motion?

Yet a slight pang of regret was felt at leaving the barren, sterile
coast, off which we had passed so many happy days, and we could not but
feel grateful to the kind floe-bergs which had, during that time,
protected us so well from "ye merciless yce."


FOOTNOTE:

  [1] As soon as it was possible to use the lime-juice in the form in
    which it was supplied to the expedition (that is, in jars or bottles)
    all sledge parties were invariably supplied with it as a daily
    ration.




CHAPTER XXVI.

THE RETURN VOYAGE IN THE ICE.


  "Let our trusty band
   Haste to Fatherland,
   Let our vessel brave
   Plough the angry wave."

     THORHALL'S _Saga_.

Cape Joseph Henry was lost to sight as the "Alert" rounded Cape Rawson;
but very heavy ice off Cape Union for a time completely obstructed our
progress.

Excessive caution was necessary in handling the ship amongst these
ponderous floes. Patience combined with perseverance are essential
virtues inseparable to successful ice navigation, and they were
constantly called into requisition in order to ensure a safe deliverance
from the dangers which surrounded us.

A vigilant look-out had to be kept on the pack, and the ship was moved
from time to time in order to avoid a "nip." Frequently we would observe
a heavy floe coming into contact with the large grounded masses of ice
that lined the coast, forcing them over, or crumbling them into
shapeless fragments, thus clearly illustrating our own fate should we be
so unfortunate as to be caught between the two.

The orders "up" and "down screw and rudder" were given and executed
several times during each day. As on our outward journey, preparations
were now made for abandoning the ship at a moment's notice. Tents,
clothing, cooking utensils, and all necessaries for a life on shore were
spread out on the upper deck in readiness to be thrown on the ice in the
event of such a catastrophe.

The cool way in which we all spoke of the probable loss of our home, and
the prospect of being cast adrift at a moment's notice, was very
remarkable. Perhaps the knowledge that our consort, the "Discovery," was
within some forty miles of us, and therefore within easy travelling
distance, might account for the light manner in which such a calamity
was regarded; but it was impossible to disguise the fact that the loss
of our good ship would be a very serious, not to say uncomfortable,
event.

Steam had to be kept ready at a few minutes' notice, so as to take
advantage of every little opening that might occur in the ice, even
though we should only succeed in advancing a few hundred yards. On one
occasion the ship was purposely forced into the pack, with which it
drifted to the southward; but on the turn of the tide, when the ice
began to drift in the opposite direction, it was no easy matter to free
ourselves from the bondage to which we had voluntarily subjected
ourselves. If it can be avoided, it is best not to allow a ship to get
beset, even when the drift of the pack is favourable.

As we proceeded south, although our progress was slow, the change in the
appearance and massiveness of the ice was very palpable. Occasionally we
would meet small specimens of our palæocrystic friends, over which we
had travelled during the preceding spring, but, as a rule, the ice was
of a much lighter description. Still the floes were far heavier than
those met with in Baffin Bay, and by no means to be despised.

During the time the ship was detained, waiting for the ice to open to
allow her to proceed, our sportsmen were not idle, landing at all hours
of the day and night in order to procure fresh food for the sick. So
successful were they in their forays that the sick were supplied with a
fresh meat meal daily,--geese, ducks, and hares forming the principal
part of their "bags." The slaughter amongst the former was
tremendous--entire flocks numbering from fifty to seventy birds falling
victims to the prowess of not more than two guns, and within the short
space perhaps of half an hour! The unfortunate birds being in the act of
moulting were, of course, unable to escape the unerring aim of our
marksmen.

In addition to crops of mustard and cress that we succeeded in raising
on board, we were able to obtain small quantities of sorrel, which the
convalescents were sent on shore to gather from the valleys and sides of
the hills, often returning with sufficient to enable a limited allowance
to be served out periodically. Sometimes the sick men were sent on shore
themselves to _browse_ on this excellent antiscorbutic.

On the morning of the 5th of August, being within twenty miles of the
"Discovery," Egerton, accompanied by one of the men, was sent to give
them information of our position. Our own ship was then, and had been
for the past forty-eight hours, effectually jammed by the ice and unable
to move. In the mean time we on board the "Alert" were endeavouring to
get our vessel clean, and into something like order and ship-shape. On
the following morning we sustained a slight "nip," caused by the ice
setting rapidly in towards us. Our rudder head was badly wrenched before
the rudder could be unshipped, and the iron tiller was bent and
crippled. We only succeeded in easing the pressure by exploding some
charges under the ice. In the forenoon Rawson, with two of the men
belonging to the "Discovery," walked on board. We were, of course,
delighted to see them and to hear news of our consort.

From them we learnt that poor Egerton had lost his way, and did not
arrive on board their ship until after he had been wandering about for
eighteen hours! The news from the "Discovery" was what we feared.
Notwithstanding the large amount of musk-ox flesh procured by them
during the autumn and following summer, scurvy had attacked her crew in
almost the same virulent manner as it had ours. The return journeys of
some of their sledge parties were simply a repetition of our own.
Beaumont's division--the one exploring the north-western coast of
Greenland--had suffered very severely, and we heard with extreme regret
that two of his small party had succumbed to this terrible disease.

The rest of his men, with himself and Dr. Coppinger, had not yet
returned to the "Discovery," having remained in Polaris Bay to recruit
their healths. This was, indeed, a bitter ending to our spring campaign,
on which we had all set out so full of enthusiasm and hope. It had the
effect, however, of confirming Captain Nares in his resolution to
proceed to England. With such broken-down crews it would have been folly
indeed to have risked the rigours of a second Arctic winter; and there
was really nothing left for us to do, Beaumont having done his work so
well that it would have been impossible for us to have extended any
exploration in that quarter. The "Discovery" had been afloat for some
time, and was in perfect readiness to proceed to sea on the arrival of
Beaumont and his party. Their absence caused us great anxiety, as the
pack, being in motion between ourselves and Polaris Bay, and
consequently where they would have to cross, made us fully alive to the
risks and dangers they would encounter whilst crossing it. Still we
hoped to hear of their safe arrival as soon as we should drop anchor
alongside our consort in Discovery Bay.

The most important news was that a large seam of lignite of the Miocene
period had been discovered within about three miles of their winter
quarters. They had not been able to utilize this coal, but several large
specimens had been carried to the ship--the result of experiments made
being that it was reported, for steaming purposes, equal to the best
Welsh coal.

Whilst imprisoned by the ice and waiting to escape, our naturalist made
an interesting discovery within two hundred yards of the ship. On the
beach, about twenty feet above high-water mark, he observed some wood
which, on examination, proved to be portions of sledge runners and
cross-pieces; also a snow scraper, made from the tusk of a narwhal or
walrus, and a large lamp, apparently a piece of schistose rock hollowed
out.[1] These relics are the most northern traces of Eskimos yet found.
Their position would lead one to suppose that the wanderers had arrived
so far north along the shores on the western side of the channel, and
from thence crossed over to the opposite Greenland coast; the cliffs to
the northward being very steep, and although not actually impassable,
great difficulty would be experienced in travelling along their base.
This, and the absence of animal life, would readily account for their
desire to leave such an inhospitable and sterile land.

On the 7th and 8th of August the ship was subjected to some very severe
squeezes. On the latter day a large floe-berg pressed violently against
the vessel and forced her on shore, lifting the stern bodily out of the
water to a height of about five feet. The noise of the cracking of the
beams and the groaning of the timbers was a sound that once heard will
never be forgotten. To those below, the crumbling of the pitch in the
deck seams sounded like a shower of hail on the upper deck. Fortunately
for us the floe-berg was heavy and of deep flotation, and therefore
grounded before it had time to cause the destruction of the ship. It was
a grand sight to witness some of the neighbouring floe-bergs--great
masses of ice from sixty to seventy feet in thickness--turned completely
over and swept away by the pack in its irresistible career.

[Illustration: REDUCING A FLOE-BERG.]

We had no time, however, to indulge ourselves in watching spectacles of
such magnificence. Our position was by no means pleasant: any pressure
upon the ship, caused by spring tides or otherwise, must inevitably
crush her; and the prospect of another winter in the ice began to dawn
upon us. There was apparently no escape, as, from our experience of the
preceding year, we had cause to believe that, when once the floe-bergs
grounded along the coast, they remained immoveable during the whole
winter, and here were we forced on shore by a floe-berg which had
grounded immediately outside us. Our only chance was to reduce the huge
mass of ice by which we were imprisoned, so as to lighten it
sufficiently to float and drift away at high water. It was a bold idea;
but it was no sooner resolved on than every available working man in the
ship, irrespective of rank or station, was busily employed with axe,
pick, or chisel in demolishing the obstruction. On the third day, so
energetically was the work carried out, that the judicious explosion of
a heavy charge of powder immediately under the berg had the effect of
floating it away at high water, and the ship was released.

The pack being loose, we succeeded in making good progress, and on the
following evening had the very great satisfaction of anchoring alongside
the "Discovery," after having been separated from her for nearly twelve
months. An interchange of visitors immediately took place. Local news,
for want of more important intelligence, was fully and freely discussed,
and the routine of the winter and the doings of the sledge parties
formed topics of interesting conversation. The prolonged absence of
Beaumont and his party acted as a damper upon our spirits, for we could
not hide from ourselves the fact that their journey across the strait
must be a hazardous one. So uneasy did Captain Nares feel regarding
their safety that he determined upon going in search of them, even over
to Polaris Bay. Accordingly, on Sunday morning, the 13th of August,
having transferred all our sick and helpless hands to the "Discovery,"
and having our own ship's company supplemented by six men from our
consort, we again made a start, but were stopped by heavy ice at the
entrance of the harbour, through which it was quite impossible to
penetrate. On the following day, to our great delight, we observed a
tent pitched on the ice about three miles to the southward of the ship.
A relief party was quickly formed, and in a few hours we had the extreme
pleasure and satisfaction of welcoming Beaumont and his party on board,
none the worse for what they had recently gone through, and almost
indignant at all offers of assistance that were made to them. On account
of the drifting of the pack over which they had been travelling, their
work, during the last three or four days, had been excessively severe.
On occasions they were compelled to continue the march for thirty-two
and twenty-two consecutive hours without resting.

As the ice still remained packed and impenetrable, we were unable to
advance, although more than one unsuccessful attempt was made to push
on. On several occasions the dredge was hauled and with good and
interesting results. The coal seam was also visited by different parties
of officers. It exists in a visible seam on the northern side of a
ravine, and is about three hundred yards long and twenty-five high. We
were unable to ascertain its depth below the surface of the ground, or
its thickness.

[Illustration: H.M.S. "ALERT" FORCED ON SHORE.]

We were also very fortunate in finding a large number of vegetable
fossils in the surrounding limestone, some of the leaf impressions being
very clear and perfect. At the head of the ravine is a magnificent cave,
formed by the two sides of the gorge and covered with a roof of frozen
snow. This roof is apparently permanent, as when we visited the cave it
was precisely in the same condition as when it was first discovered
twelve months before! The cave is very large, capable of
accommodating easily sixty or seventy men.

During these excursions several butterflies were caught and brought on
board as specimens, as also some flies, gnats, and other _diptera_. Many
hares were also shot, to the great delight of our doctor, who had been
working like a horse in order to bring his patients round.

The scenery in the channel between Bellot Island and the mainland,
through which we passed in one of our vain attempts to get south, was
very striking: bold cliffs, and hills rising to a height of two thousand
feet on either side, intersected by deep ravines and gorges having
almost precipitous sides and terminating in bays and little harbours.

On Sunday the 20th, by dint of boring and charging, at the expense,
however, of our rudder head, we succeeded in forcing a passage through
the ice in Lady Franklin Bay, and into a broad stream of water extending
along the coast to the southward, which we fondly hoped would eventually
lead us into open water.[2] But navigation in ice-bound seas is indeed
uncertain. For on the following day we were compelled to seek refuge
inside a land-locked and apparently well-protected and secure harbour.
How deceitful was its appearance! Hardly an hour had elapsed after
entering this sheltered retreat, before the "Alert" was severely nipped
by a heavy floe and forced on shore.

For many hours the ship remained in a very critical position, as the
tide receding left her completely high and dry, and listed over at an
angle of 25°.

So steep was the bank on which we had been forced, that at low water we
were able to walk, "dry shod," from the stem to the main chains, whilst
aft the water was over our mizzen chains, and within a short distance of
the taff-rail. A good sensational photograph and some sketches were made
of the ship in this unpleasant position. Strenuous efforts were, of
course, at once made to lighten and float the vessel. The fore part was
entirely cleared, and the chain cables brought aft. A bower anchor was
laid out astern in order to haul the ship off to.

The manner in which this latter work was performed was both novel and
ingenious. A small but heavy piece of ice was secured and brought
alongside the ship. On this was placed the anchor, as on a raft. It was
then towed by boats to the position decided upon, when the raft was
destroyed by exploding a charge of gunpowder immediately underneath it,
the anchor, of course, sinking to the bottom.

With such good will did all work, that we had the joy and satisfaction
of seeing our good ship afloat, and ready to proceed, in about fifteen
hours from the time of the accident taking place. The bay, which was the
scene of our mishap, was called Rawlings Bay, after one of our men, who
was my sledge captain in all my expeditions. A musk-ox skull and the
horn of a reindeer were picked up by Feilden close to where the ship was
aground, proving that the neighbourhood is occasionally visited by these
animals.

From this time, until the 9th of September, we were engaged in a
never-ceasing struggle with the ice, frequently detained for many hours,
and rarely advancing more than a few hundred yards during the day. The
fast-forming ice reminded us unpleasantly of the near approach of
winter, whilst the land had again assumed its wintry covering of snow.
On the 22nd of August candles had to be used below at midnight for
reading or writing. The young ice was found very tenacious, glueing and
cementing the broken fragments of floes together. This caused such an
impediment to our advance, although the pack was what is termed loose,
that we were on several occasions compelled to relinquish all attempts
at penetrating farther, and to secure the ships until a more favourable
opportunity should occur. Our stock of coal, too, was getting alarmingly
small, and had to be very carefully economized. Without the means of
steaming, our chance of escape would, indeed, have been small.

On the 24th we rounded Cape Fraser;[3] on the 27th,[4] so slow was our
progress, that we only just succeeded in getting into Dobbin Bay, where
we were detained until the 3rd of September. The temperature had fallen
to 19°. Last year we were frozen up on the 3rd of September, and here
were we on the same date with as low a temperature and many miles to
accomplish before we could actually be clear of the ice!

Snow also began to fall heavily, and everything appeared gloomy and
inhospitable. As there was now a prospect of our being forcibly detained
for another winter in the ice, and as some of our provisions were
getting low, on passing the large depôt established in Dobbin Bay on our
way up the previous year, we landed and brought off all the tea, sugar,
and chocolate, and such other articles as we were likely to require.

Whilst this work was in progress, a large ground seal (_Phoca barbata_)
was shot by Hans, of the "Discovery," on which was found a partially
healed wound; on further examination, an iron-pointed harpoon with an
ivory socket, evidently of Eskimo construction, was discovered imbedded
in its blubber. It would have been very interesting if we could have
traced, by the manufacture of the instrument, the tribe to which it had
belonged and the locality where the wound was inflicted.

One morning, when some little distance from the land, a small fox, of a
mottled colour, wandered off to the ship, being attracted towards us
either by hunger or curiosity. The officer of the watch, always on the
_alert_, soon spied the little animal cruising about amongst the
hummocks and shot it. The skin was preserved with the collection of
natural history specimens, whilst the body was eaten by us at dinner and
found to be delicious. Passing Cape Hawks, and Allman Bay, an inlet
which was named after the distinguished President of the Linnæan
Society, we continued to push the ships in the direction of open water
to the south, which we at length reached.

It was with no small amount of thankfulness that on the 9th of September
we emerged from the cold, grim clutches that seemed only too ready to
detain us for another winter in the realms of the Ice King, and that we
felt our ship rise and fall once more on the bosom of an undoubted ocean
swell. It was, indeed, a joyous sensation to look around and see nothing
but blue water, and, with the exception of a few straggling bergs, not
a single speck of ice in sight. This broad sheet of water had for some
time been known to us, having been observed from the summits of various
hills that we had ascended, and all our energies of late had been
concentrated into reaching it. We had a hard fight, but perseverance and
patience ultimately proved triumphant.

[Illustration: ALLMAN BAY.]

On first reaching it, we found it to be coated with a thin layer of
young ice, which offered a great deal of hindrance, although it had not
the effect of checking us altogether. Our course through this young ice
could be distinctly traced for a long distance astern, by a broad lane
of water resembling the Suez Canal. At 6 P.M. we passed Cape Sabine, and
distinguished our cairn on the top of Brevoort Island apparently
untouched. Ahead was Cape Isabella, towards which we steered.


FOOTNOTES:

  [1] I have already referred to this discovery in my remarks on the
    migrations of the Eskimos, at p. 69.

  [2] At this time the "Pandora" was cruising in the entrance of Smith
    Sound, with an impenetrable barrier of ice blocking her way to the
    northward.

  [3] On this day the "Pandora" succeeded in landing a party on Cape
    Isabella for the second time, searching for a record.

  [4] On the 27th the "Pandora" was driven out of Smith Sound by a
    gale.




CHAPTER XXVII.

HOMEWARD BOUND.


  "Still in the yawning trough the vessel reels,
   Ingulfed beneath two fluctuating hills;
   On either side they rise, tremendous scene,
   A long dark melancholy vale between.
   The balanced ship, now forward, now behind,
   Still felt the impression of the waves and wind,
   And to the right and left by turns inclined."

     FALCONER.

  "_Montano._--What from the cape can you discern at sea?

   _1st Gent._--Nothing at all: it is a high-wrought flood;
              I cannot, 'twixt the heaven and the main,
              Descry a sail.

    _Montano._--Let's to the seaside, ho!

   _3rd Gent._--Come, let's do so;
              For every moment is expectancy
              Of more arrivance. (_Within._) A sail! A sail!

   _4th Gent._--The town is empty; on the brow of the sea
              Stand ranks of people, and they cry--a sail!"

     _Othello._

Shortly before midnight, on the 9th of September, Cape Isabella was
reached and the ships were clear of Smith Sound. As, on our outward
journey, to me had been allotted the duty of erecting a cairn on that
prominent headland, and establishing a post office, so, on our return
journey, was I assigned the duty of visiting the place in order to
ascertain if letters had been deposited there during the period of our
absence by any enterprising friend. On reaching the lower cairn, to my
great surprise--for we hardly expected that any one would have visited
the place since our departure the previous year--I found an additional
cask had been placed alongside the one that I had established there.
This was quickly opened, and found to contain a small mail for each
ship.

Hurriedly leaving a record notifying our visit, we eagerly seized our
treasures and made the best of our way to the boat. Great was the
excitement when the news spread that a mail from England was actually on
board, and we were soon deep in the enjoyment of perusing late letters
from home, a pleasure to which we had so long been strangers.

Many were the heartfelt expressions of gratitude that rose to the lips
of those lucky recipients of home news towards that gallant officer and
friend who had so perseveringly and so generously, in spite of many
dangers and difficulties, succeeded in depositing their letters so far
north. The bulk of our mail we imagined had been left either at Disco or
Upernivik. Had we examined the cairn on the summit of Cape Isabella, we
should there have learnt that the same kind and disinterested friend had
taken them to Littleton Island, and there safely deposited them. Being
ignorant of this fact, and the weather being against our proceeding
thither, a course was shaped to the southward; those who were under the
impression that our English letters were really on that island being
consoled by the fact that we were steering homewards, and that in a
short time letters would be no longer necessary or of any value.

Wars, and rumours of wars, were prevalent, for our latest news came from
England at the time when all Europe was disturbed and unsettled by the
complexion of affairs in the East.

This made us all the more anxious to get home quickly; but alas!
everything was against us. Tempestuous weather, with the wind _always_
contrary, was our introduction to our own element, and, as our coal was
running very short, we were obliged to put the ships under canvas and
thrash them at it. Icebergs were innumerable, and, as the nights were
increasing in length and the darkness in density, they were anything but
pleasant neighbours.

On the 12th of September it was blowing so hard and the weather was so
thick, that it was determined to seek an anchorage under the lee of the
land in Whale Sound, and there wait until the weather moderated. With
this object the ships were worked up under fore and aft sails and steam,
eventually anchoring in a small bay (Bardin Bay) in close proximity to
the Tyndall Glacier. As we came in we observed an Eskimo settlement on
the eastern side of the bay, and several natives were seen running along
the land towards us; but as the glacier intervened they were unable to
communicate, and the weather was too bad to allow us to send a boat to
them. This was much to be deplored, as, irrespective of the fact that
these people were the first human beings that we had seen for many a
long month, it was desirable that we should propitiate them in favour of
white men, and for this purpose we had many little articles of infinite
value to them, such as knives, needles, thread, scissors, etc., besides
provisions, ready for their acceptance.

These natives were of the same tribe as those who were so kind to Kane
and Hayes, and also to the "Polaris," so it would have been a good
action, independently of all other reasons, could we have befriended
them.

We had not been at anchor, however, more than five hours before a change
of wind, accompanied by heavy squalls which came over the hills fast and
furious, obliged us to get under weigh, and again put to sea, although
the weather was as thick and the wind as strong as ever--added to which
hail and snow showers were frequent: altogether a very unpleasant and
miserable night was spent, for it was nearly midnight when we were
forced to fly from our harbour.

On the 16th we were beating about off the entrance to Lancaster Sound,
near Cape Byam Martin. This was all familiar ground to me, and brought
back to my recollection scenes on board the old whaler, "Arctic," that
had occurred in the same locality three years before. We made many tacks
in our endeavours to weather Cape Walter Bathurst, but, for a long time,
without success, for the wind invariably headed us on each tack.

On the 20th several eider-ducks, some turnstones, rotges, and
snow-buntings were seen, but all going in a southerly direction,
apparently anxious to seek warmer climes before the winter should have
claimed both the sea and land. How we envied these birds their means of
locomotion! for foul and strong winds causing slow progress, were
beginning to be very irksome. Our old friends the "mollies" (fulmar
petrels), that we had not seen for so long, again joined us, and might
be seen continually darting down and picking up in their voracious maws
all scraps that had been thrown overboard.

[Illustration: FULMAR PETRELS ("MOLLIES").]

The persistent manner in which the bad weather clung to us was quite
marvellous. Hardly a fine day had been enjoyed since we emerged from the
ice. The words of Falconer would have been applicable to us, and might
have been repeated with truth every morning:

  "A lowering squall obscures the southern sky,
   Before whose sweeping breath the waters fly.

        *     *     *     *     *

   It comes resistless! and with foaming sweep,
   Upturns the whitening surface of the deep."

At length, after being buffeted about for many days, the high land of
Disco was sighted on the 25th of September; and on the same day we came
to an anchor in the little harbour of Godhavn, and congratulated
ourselves once more upon our return to civilization.

The day, as if to make up for our previous bad weather, was a bright
sunny one, and perfectly still and calm. This was all the more
appreciated after the turbulent seas which had lately almost driven us
distracted. The scenery coming in was very beautiful. On one side were
the high cliffs of Disco, intersected here and there with deep fiords
and bays, whilst on the other lay the perfectly quiescent sea, studded
with icebergs of all shapes and sizes. Occasionally the surface of the
water would be ruffled and disturbed by the appearance of a seal's head,
as the inquisitive little animal would pop it up to gaze curiously at us
as we steamed slowly by; or else a whale, as he swam lazily along, would
give a flick with his huge tail, or spout a jet of water in the air,
which might be taken either as a welcome back to more genial climes, or
an angry remonstrance that a monster larger than himself should dare to
live in his own particular domain. Birds flew around and alighted near
us. One, a ger-falcon, was so bold as to venture to perch upon our
fore-royal truck; but, I am ashamed to relate, was fired at for its
misplaced confidence. It escaped, however, unhurt. Everything was bright
and joyous, and all were happy and elated. Our joy was slightly marred
on arrival to find that our mails had really been taken on and left at
Littleton Island; but a mail, with letters of a later date than those
brought out by the "Pandora," which had been got together and made up
for us at Copenhagen by my cousin, had just arrived in the Danish brig
"Tjalfe."

Of course it could not be expected that, during the period of our
absence from England, no sad changes should have taken place, and the
sorrowful faces of more than one among us testified to the fact that
some dear and loved ones would be seen no more in this world.

From Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, we learnt that the "Pandora" had
only taken her departure for England four days previously, having been
unsuccessful in her endeavours to reach Cape Sabine. The attempt had
only been relinquished by her commander when the lateness of the season
compelled him to beat a retreat. A supply of beer, sent from England by
my cousin, was found awaiting our arrival, and was most acceptable. A
cask of beer had also been kindly left for our use by Allen Young, so
that we were enabled to supply "all hands" with a glass of beer twice a
week during the passage to England. Through the kindness of the Danish
authorities, we were able to obtain thirty tons of coal, with a promise
of thirty more if we chose to go to Egedesminde, another settlement
about sixty miles to the southward. This was an offer too valuable to be
disregarded, and was accepted by Captain Nares.

Having shifted our rudder, which, to use an American phrase, was "pretty
considerably chawed up," from its treatment by the ice, and made good a
few other defects, we took our departure from Godhavn on the morning of
the 28th, Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, coming on board to accompany
us round to Egedesminde. As we steamed out of harbour the little
three-gun battery fired a farewell salute, the ensigns on shore, and on
board, were dipped, and the ladies (two in number), from their
verandahs, waved with their pocket handkerchiefs a last adieu. It was a
fine clear morning as we left; but a thick fog soon overtook us, in
which we remained enveloped for the remainder of the day, and it was not
until the following morning that we reached our destination.

Our way took us through a perfect labyrinth of small islands, some of
the narrow channels through which we had to pass being almost blocked by
large grounded masses of ice, remnants of icebergs. The "Alert" and
"Discovery" being the first steamers that had ever visited Egedesminde,
the natives turned out in force to witness our arrival. Several kayaks
came skimming rapidly along the smooth and unruffled surface of the
water as we approached, their occupants gazing with evident astonishment
at the large "umiaks," whose motive power was to them invisible and
incomprehensible. The Danish flag was run up on three separate
flag-staves on shore, and a salute of seven guns was fired to welcome
our arrival.

There is much similarity about the various Danish settlements in
Greenland. The houses are of the same size and colour, and generally of
about the same number, whilst all possess their little church, their
storehouse, and their cooperage. The settlement is very prettily
situated on the northern side of the largest of a group of many islands
of all sizes. These are of the same metamorphic formation, and possess
a more luxuriant vegetation than we had hitherto seen. The island is
covered with numerous small lakes and ponds, and is extremely marshy and
swampy. The difficulty of walking, without sinking up to the ankles in a
bog, is very great.

The population of Egedesminde, which is the most southern settlement in
the Inspectorate of North Greenland, is about one hundred and thirty
souls, including the Danes, who with the Governor and his family number
about twelve. The entire population of North Greenland is about four
thousand three hundred.

The boggy substance, like peat, is dug up and stacked during the summer,
and when dried is very generally used as fuel. The chief employment of
the inhabitants is, as at the other settlements, that of collecting
skins and blubber. Reindeer are obtained on the mainland, but they are
not plentiful.

The Governor, Mr. Boldroe, was good enough to present us with a fine
large haunch of venison; but, curious to relate, when served up, it had
an unmistakeable taste and odour of musk! Our scorbutic patients, who
were at this time nearly all convalescent, benefited largely from the
quantities of fresh fish, principally cod, obtainable at this place.

On the morning of the 2nd of October, having received on board the
amount of coal promised, we bade our kind friends farewell, and steamed
away amidst the usual firing of guns and dipping of colours. The
stoppages at these two civilized places were very pleasant breaks to us,
after our long absence from society of any description, except our own,
and were not regretted by any one. Indeed, the kindness and true
hospitality extended to us by our Danish friends in the different
settlements in Northern Greenland will long be remembered with feelings
of gratitude and pleasure.

From the date of leaving this our last port until our arrival at
Valentia, we experienced very tempestuous weather. Strong head winds
were in constant attendance, and the ship's general state was being
"battened down and under close-reefed topsails." Under these
circumstances our daily rate of progress was remarkably slow, and on
some days we found that we had actually increased our distance from home
instead of having lessened it. Few on board had before experienced a
longer continuance of really stormy weather. From the severe buffeting
we received, our rudder, already crippled, was reduced to such a state
as to be absolutely useless, the rudder-head being almost wrenched off,
and we were obliged to steer the ship during the remainder of the voyage
by means of the rudder pendants.

On the 16th of October, to the intense surprise of everybody, a vessel
was sighted ahead, which proved to be the "Pandora." How very small is
this world we live in! Here were we in the middle of the broad Atlantic,
fifteen hundred miles from England, and out of the course of all ships,
and yet actually meeting a vessel that had purposely come out to seek
us.

The weather was too bad to allow us to communicate, but an interchange
of news was effected by signal. The three ships remained in company for
a couple of days, when they lost sight of each other in thick and blowy
weather, we having previously ordered the "Discovery" to rendezvous at
Queenstown in case of parting company.

Our rudder being in such a dilapidated state, Captain Nares determined
upon putting in to Valentia for the purpose of shifting it, the spare
one having in the mean time been temporarily repaired. With this object
we anchored in the snug little harbour of Valentia, on the 27th of
October, and here Captain Nares and several of the officers left for the
purpose of proceeding at once to London to report our arrival.

  "Now, strike your sayles, yee jolly mariners,
   For we be come unto a quiet rode,
   Where we must land some of our passengers
   And light this wearie vessel of her lode.
   Here she awhile may make her safe abode."

It is in vain to attempt to describe the pleasure we all felt at
beholding trees and green fields once more, with the cattle browsing in
them. It is difficult at once to throw off old habits, and there were
many on board who expressed their anxiety to land at once with their
guns for the purpose of shooting "that herd of musk-oxen." Had we given
way to our inclinations, I fear our reception would not have been so
warm or so hospitable as it was.

The people of Valentia were the first to bid us welcome. Their kindness
and hospitality will never be effaced from our memory. The rudder having
been shifted, and sundry repairs executed, we took our departure on the
following morning at daylight, being guided out of the place by a most
eccentric and original old pilot. On the 29th we reached Queenstown,
where we found the "Discovery" had arrived only a couple of hours
before. Here again we received a warm welcome and enjoyed that hearty
hospitality for which the Irish people are so justly celebrated. That
evening we were the guests of the Port Admiral, he and Mrs. Hillyar
hearing of no refusal, although we had to sit down to dinner in--well,
clothes very dirty and very much the worse for wear. The next day,
having taken in a supply of coals, we started for Portsmouth, the two
ships remaining in company and arriving in that harbour together on the
2nd of November.

Our reception there and afterwards is a matter of history. Suffice it to
say that our exertions received the approbation of our country and of
our brother officers, and that the Lords of the Admiralty were pleased
to express their satisfaction at the manner in which the expedition had
been conducted by our leader, as well as at the way in which the work
had been carried out by his subordinates.

My story has now come to an end. My aim has been to describe our daily
life during a very eventful service.

I have quoted largely from my journal, and in some instances I have
thought it best to copy from it _verbatim_.

Nothing is further from my thoughts than to claim for this narrative any
literary merit whatever. I simply wish it to be regarded as a plain but
accurate statement of facts--an unpretending account of the cruise of
one of the ships of the late expedition--by one of its members.

In launching my little book upon the ocean of literature, I venture to
quote the words of brave old Master Beste, who, being engaged in
compiling a record of another Arctic expedition, humbly apologizes, as I
do, for submitting his work to the public:--"And herein I humbly pray
pardon, for my rude order of writing, which proceedeth from the barren
brayne of a souldier and one professing armes, who desireth rather to be
wel thought of with your honour for his well meaning than for anye hys
cunning writing at all."

[Illustration: _FAREWELL!_]




INDEX.


  Admiralty, Lords of, visit to the Polar ships, 9;
    satisfaction at the results of the expedition, 368.

  Admiralty Inlet, remains of Eskimos on shores of, 68.

  Albert Head, 65.

  Aldebaran, erratic conduct of, 200.

  Aldrich, Lieut. Pelham, R.N., skill in managing a kayak, 30;
    starts on a reconnoitring expedition in the autumn, 128;
    second autumn journey with dog-sledge, 133;
    starts on a third autumn journey, 136, 137;
    ascends a hill near Cape Joseph Henry, 147;
    glees by, 169, 216;
    his lecture on meteorology, 169;
    orchestra for the Royal Arctic Theatre, 171, 175, 214;
    plays the harmonium at church, 187;
    one of his dogs lost, 190;
    plays at Christmas, 194, 195;
    commands the extended party to the west, 241;
    anxiety for his safety, 331;
    return, 332.

  Ale, prepared specially for the expedition, 17.
    (_See_ Beer.)

  "Alert," H.M.S., 1, 2;
    special fittings, 3;
    departure from Portsmouth, 9;
    leaves Berehaven, 12;
    commencement of the voyage, 15;
    a lively ship, 17;
    arrival at Godhavn, 26;
    departure from Godhavn, 34;
    on shore, 43;
    proceeds to Cary Islands, 48;
    Port Foulke, 51, 56;
    perilous position of, 65, 91;
    at Hannah Island, 100;
    in Discovery Harbour, 104, 108, 293;
    on shore near Cape Beechey, 112;
    in the palæocrystic ice, 117, 118;
    crosses the threshold of the unknown region, 119;
    danger at Floe-berg Beach, 125, 134;
    precarious winter quarters, 125, 135, 136;
    housed in, 154;
    internal winter arrangements, 156;
    printing establishment, 165;
    departure of sledges from, 257;
    scurvy breaks out on board, 321;
    succour from, reaches N. division, 325;
    freed from winter quarters, 342;
    forced on shore, 351;
    afloat again, 347;
    at Valentia, 367.
    (_See_ Winter Quarters.)

  "Alexandra," H.M. sledge, 217, 259, 263.

  Alexandra Bay, 61, 63.

  Amusements in winter quarters, 167;
    importance of, 163.
    (_See_ Theatricals.)

  _Anonyx nugax_: crustacea brought up at the extreme northern point, 309
    (_n._).

  Arctic Circle crossed by the expedition, 26.

  Arctic Highlanders, 48.
    (_See_ Eskimo.)

  Arctic school, 166, 167, 213.

  Arctic theatre. (_See_ Theatricals.)

  "Arctic," whaler, reminiscences of, 360.

  Astronomical observatory, 153, 180.

  Astronomy, lecture on, by Captain Nares, 169;
    by Commander Markham, 169.

  Atanekerdluk, fossil plants at, 36.

  Atlantic, gales of wind in, 17, 18.

  Auks, Little. (_See_ Rotges.)

  Autumn depôt. (_See_ Depôts.)

  Autumn travelling, 128, 129, 133, 137 to 150;
    discomfort, 141;
    severe work, 147, 148;
    return from, 148, 149;
    results, 149.

  Auxiliary sledges, 234.

  Ayles, Adam, song by, 216.


  Bache Island, of Hayes, not an island, 64.

  Baffin, William, gave name to Woman Isles, 41.

  Bag (sleeping), 139, 233, 235, 240, 279, 283, 287.

  Baird Inlet, 57.

  Baird, Cape, stopped by ice off, 103.

  Banks Island, heavy pack on west coast, 200.

  Bantry Bay. (_See_ Berehaven.)

  Bardin Bay, 359.

  Barrow, Cape John, 93.

  Bears, hunt in Melville Bay, 46;
    recent tracks, 86.

  Beaumont, Lieutenant, H.M.S. "Discovery," his journey along the north
      coast of Greenland, 346;
    return of, 350.

  Beechey, Cape, Eskimo remains at, 69;
    lane of water in direction of, 102, 112, 113;
    rounded, 114.

  Beer at Godhavn, 363.

  Bellot, Cape, 103, 112;
    Island, 112, 351.

  Berehaven, expedition at, 12.

  Bessels Bay, entrance passed, 100;
    description of, 101.

  Bessels, Dr., observation as to meetings of tides at Cape Fraser, 92;
    coast-line correctly delineated by, 99.

  Beverley, crimson cliffs of, 48.

  Bide-a-wee Harbour, 58.
    (_See_ Payer Harbour.)

  Bills of fare, 185, 186, 196, 335.
    (_See_ Play-bills.)

  Birds of the Arctic regions, 24, 35, 50;
    Brent geese, 345;
    dovekies, 50, 101;
    eider duck, 101, 131, 360;
    falcon, 362;
    fulmar petrel, 361;
    glaucous gulls, 50;
    ivory gulls, 50, 101;
    kittiwakes, 50;
    king ducks, 50, 332;
    knots, 110;
    looms, 40, 50;
    ptarmigan, 225;
    rotges, 46, 50, 360;
    skuas, 332;
    terns, 110, 332;
    turnstones, 360.

  Birthdays, celebration of, 184, 185.

  Black, Cape, 253.

  Blasting the ice, 87, 89, 90, 341, 349.

  "Bloodhound," H.M. sledge, 259, 263.

  Boats for the expedition, 4;
    search for, left by Hayes, 53, 55;
    on a sledge, 58;
    jolly-boat of "Valorous" landed in Dobbin Bay, 84;
    turned in on their davits owing to height of ice, 90;
    advanced to northward of ship, 133;
    hauled up during winter quarters, 157;
    on sledges, 242 (_n._);
    in Parry's expedition, details of, 243 (_n._);
    painted, 245;
    care of, on sledge, 279;
    abandonment of, by Commander Markham, 288, 289, 318.

  Boldroe, Mr., governor of Egedesminde, 365.

  Botanical collections, 31.

  Botany. (_See_ Vegetation.)

  Bottle-nose whales, 20.

  Brent geese, 345.

  Brevoort Island, 57;
    cairn on, 356.

  Brevoort Cape in sight, 103.

  "Bruin," largest dog on board, 210.

  Bryant, Geo., H.M.S. "Discovery," serving in the "Alert," 169.

  Buchanan Strait, Eskimo remains at, 69.

  "Bulldog," H.M. sledge, 217, 259, 263.

  Burroughs, Geo., ship's steward, H.M.S. "Alert," acts in _Chops of the
      Channel_, 173.

  Butterflies, 351.

  Byam Martin Cape, 360.


  Cairns at the Cary Islands, 49;
    at Life-boat Cove, 53;
    at Cape Isabella, 56;
    on Brevoort Island, 356;
    ancient cairns on Washington Irving Island, 85;
    on Hannah Island, 101;
    at Lincoln Bay, 117;
    at the "Alert's" winter quarters, 284.

  Cairn Hill, 219, 220, 221, 225;
    cairn built, 341.

  Cane, Frederick, armourer, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 169, 215.

  Carl Ritter Bay, 99.

  Cary Islands, 48;
    depôt on, 49, 84.

  Castletown. (_See_ Berehaven.)

  Cave in the snow, 350.

  Cetaceans, various kinds, 20, 21.

  "Challenger," H.M. sledge, 217, 259.

  Chlorine observations, 180.

  _Chops of the Channel_, play acted by the men, 173.

  Chorus, grand palæocrystic, 216.

  Christmas in the Arctic regions, 192 to 197;
    bill of fare, 196;
    poem on, 196.

  Clavering, Captain, Eskimo seen by, on east coast of Greenland, 69.

  "Clements Markham," H.M. sledge, 217;
    starts for "Discovery," 248.

  Clements Markham Inlet, 288.

  Clothing during winter, 159, 160;
    sledging, 239.
    (_See_ Foot-gear.)

  Coal, discovery of, 350;
    offer of, at Egedesminde, 363.

  Cod-fish, 21, 25, 365.

  Colan, Dr., H.M.S. "Alert," his lecture on food in the Arctic regions,
      169;
    medical instructions to officers of sledges, 238;
    skilful treatment of Petersen, 255;
    attention to scurvy patients, 333, 338, 345.

  Cold, extreme, 208, 222, 224.
    (_See_ Temperature.)

  Collinson, Cape, 94.

  Cook, while sledging, 235, 265.

  Cooking apparatus, weight, 233;
    description, 235.

  Copenhagen, letters sent out from, 363.

  Coppinger, Dr., H.M.S. "Discovery," state of lime-juice found by, in
       Polaris Bay, 305;
    journey with Lieut. Beaumont, 346.

  Cress. (_See_ Mustard and Cress.)

  Crimson cliffs of Beverley, 48.

  Crinoids dredged up, 73.

  Crow's-nest, description, 3;
    Captain Nares constantly in, 66;
    a cold berth, 98.

  Crozier Island passed, 98.

  Crustaceans dredged up at the extreme northern point, 309.

  Cryolite mine in Greenland, 20.

  Crystal Palace Glacier, 50.


  Dancing at Christmas, 197;
    old year, 204.

  Darkness, approach of, 127;
    in sledge travelling, 141;
    in winter, 178, 182;
    monotony of, 207.

  Davis, John, musicians in the expedition of, 8;
    gave name to Cape Desolation, 22, 23.

  Davis Strait, 18, 19, 20.

  Daylight. (_See_ Light.)

  Deaths. (_See_ Petersen, Porter, "Discovery.")

  Depôts on Cary Isles, 49;
    Cape Isabella, 56;
    Dobbin Bay, 85, 353;
    Cape Collinson, 95;
    Cape Morton, 102;
    Lincoln Bay, 117, 248;
    Floe-berg Beach, 122, 124;
    near Cape Joseph Henry, 147, 149, 263, 321;
    to southward of Floe Berg Beach for "Discovery" sledges, 255;
    for sledge parties, 234.

  "Deptford," snow storehouse so called, 154.

  Desolation, Cape, 22.

  Diptera, 351.

  Disco, 6, 18, 34, 358, 362;
    tradition of, 33, 34;
    view from hills of, 31.
    (_See_ Godhavn.)

  Disco Bay, 31.

  "Discovery," H.M.S., 95;
    departure from Portsmouth, 9;
    commencement of voyage, 15;
    sighted off Greenland coast, 25;
    towed by the "Alert," 41;
    following, 45;
    sent to communicate with natives at Cape York, 48;
    at Port Foulke, 56;
    perilous position, 65;
    grounds off Cape Louis Napoleon, 90;
    in great danger, 91;
    blown from her anchors, 95;
    lands a depôt at Cape Morton, 100;
    in harbour, 104;
    winter quarters of, 107;
    sledge crew from, joins the "Alert," 108;
    theatre on board, 174;
    a health to, 217;
    depôts laid out for sledges of, 227;
    work of sledge parties, 242;
    arrangement for opening communication with, from "Alert," 246, 255;
    to return to England, 330;
    joined by "Alert," 344, 345;
    scurvy among crew of, 346;
    two deaths, 346;
    rendezvous at Queenstown, 367.

  Discovery Harbour, 104, 106, 112;
    "Alert" arrives at, 347.

  Distant, Cape, walk to, 110;
    "Alert" passes, 112.

  Divine service, 187;
    on Christmas day, 195;
    before sledges start, 258, 259.

  Dobbin Bay, 83, 86;
    depôt at, 84, 353.

  Dock cut in the ice at Dobbin Bay, 86.

  Dockyard. (_See_ Portsmouth.)

  Dog-driver. (_See_ Petersen.)

  Dogs, Eskimo, 29, 38, 78, 79;
    disease, 79;
    wailing, 88;
    habits, 130;
    sledging, 80, 81, 128;
    dog "Sallie" lost and found, 190, 191;
    alarm of during winter, 199;
    nearly steal musk-ox beef, 207;
    alarm caused by, 210;
    regularly fed, 210;
    team sent with sledge to "Discovery," 247, 255;
    trouble with, 253.
    (_See_ Bruin, Sallie, Flo, Nellie.)

  Dovekies, 50, 101, 115.

  Draba, 57, 340.

  Dredging, 25, 73, 102.

  Driftwood, 112.

  Drip. (_See_ Snow.)

  Drip, inconvenience of, in winter, 182.

  Ducks. (_See_ Birds.)

  Dumb-bell Bay, 131.

  Dundas Harbour, remains of Eskimos at, 68.

  D'Urville, Cape, passed, 83.


  Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of, visit to Arctic ships, 8.

  Egedesminde, offer of coals at, 363;
    expedition at, 364, 365.

  Egerton, Lieut. George Le Clerc, R.N., officer of the watch when the
      ship touched the first ice, 22;
    starts on autumn travelling, 133;
    stage manager of the Royal Arctic Theatre, 171;
    parts taken by, 174, 214;
    sails his sledge, 231 (_n._);
    sent to open communication with "Discovery," 247;
    his efforts to save Petersen, 249 to 254;
    second start for the "Discovery," 255;
    sent to the "Discovery," 345.

  Eider ducks, 131, 360.

  Electricity, observations on, 180.

  Ellesmere Land, 50.

  Eskimo, Frederic, 29, 128;
    Hans Hendrick, 39, 48, 354;
    pilot, 42.
    (_See_ Dogs.)

  Eskimos, 33;
    at Proven, 38;
    Cape York, 48;
    Etah, 52;
    traces of, in Payer Harbour, 58;
    in Twin-glacier Bay, 61, 62;
    wanderings, 67, 69;
    Admiral Sherard Osborn and Mr. Clements Markham on wanderings of, 68,
      69;
    remains on Capes Sabine, Hilgard, Louis Napoleon, Hayes, Fraser,
      shores of Buchanan Strait, Radmore Harbour, and Bellot Isle, 69;
    at Admiralty Inlet and Dundas Harbour, 68;
    at Cape Beechey, 69, 347;
    in Whale Sound, 359.

  Etah, native village, 52, 69.

  Eugénie, H.I.H. the Empress, present of woollen caps from, 7, 236, 239,
      287;
    visits the Arctic ships, 8.

  Exercise during winter, 181, 187;
    for sledging crews, 227, 228.


  Falcon, 362.

  Farewell banquets, 8;
    to the expedition at Portsmouth, 9, 10, 11;
    to the "Valorous," 35.

  Farewell Cape, 19, 23, 69.

  Feilden, Captain, naturalist, H.M.S. "Alert," ascends hill above
      Bessels Bay, 101;
    visits Distant Cape, 110;
    his lecture on geology, 169;
    picks up skulls in Rawlings Bay, 352.
    (_See_ Naturalist.)

  Ferbrache, Wm., sledge crew, N. division, symptoms of scurvy, 306.

  Figure-heads of the Arctic ships, 4.

  Finner whale, 20.

  Fire, precautions against, fire-hole, 160, 161;
    alarm of, 226.

  Fishing on the Torske bank, 25.

  Fiskernaes, expedition off, 24.

  Fitting out the expedition, 1 to 8.

  "Flo," Eskimo dog, met with adrift, near Cape Joseph Henry, 323.

  Floes. (_See_ Ice.)

  Floe-bergs, description of, 114;
    "Alert" secured inside a fringe of, 122, 125;
    split by intense cold, 211.

  Floe-berg Beach, depôt at, 122, 124;
    desolate scene at, 126;
    view from, 127;
    winter quarters at, 132.

  Flowers. (_See_ Vegetation.)

  Foot-ball on the ice, 77.

  Foot-gear, while sledging, 260, 261, 268, 280.

  Foraminifera brought up at the extreme north point, 309.

  Fossils, collections in Bessels Bay, 102;
    in the coal, 350.

  Fossil plants, at Atanekerdluk, 37;
    in the coal near Discovery Harbour, 350.

  Foulke Port, 51, 56, 69, 330.

  Foxes, traces of, 60, 107;
    fox shot, 354.

  Fox trap, 68.

  Francombe, Reuben, H.M.S. "Alert," parts and songs by, 173.

  Franklin Pierce Bay, 72.

  Fraser, Cape, 55, 72;
    Eskimo remains on, 68;
    passed by the ships, 92;
    meeting of the tides, 93;
    rounded, going south, 353.

  Frederick VII., Cape, ship in danger off, 114.

  Frederic, 29, 128.
    (_See_ Eskimo.)

  Freezing, experiments in, 223.

  Fresh meat, 186.
    (_See_ musk-ox, hares, Brent geese.)

  Frost-bites, danger of, 81;
    Petersen frost-bitten in the autumn, 129;
    danger of, in autumn travelling, 142;
    many frost-bites in return autumn journey, 147;
    Lieut. May's severe frost-bite, 148;
    other frost-bites and amputations, 148;
    sufferers during the winter, 198;
    precautions against, 199, 208;
    on the dog sledge, in journey to "Discovery," 249.

  "Frost-bite Range," 148.

  Frozen ocean, 200, 215;
    depôts cannot be laid out on, 234, 244;
    difficulty of travelling over, 242;
    movements of, 242.
    (_See_ Palæocrystic Sea, Sledgings.)

  Fulmar petrels, 361.


  Gales of wind in the Atlantic, 17, 18;
    in Smith Sound, 59;
    in Robeson Channel, 119;
    at Floe Berg Beach, 124;
    furious gale during autumn travelling, 133, 134;
    in winter quarters, 205, 206;
    while sledging, 282, 283, 285, 296, 297;
    on the voyage home, 366, 367.

  Geese. (_See_ Brent.)

  Geology, lecture on, by Captain Feilden, 169.

  Geological collections, 31, 102, 116, 350.
    (_See_ Fossils.)

  Geological formation, 64, 67, 68;
    physical aspect of the coast lines, 99.

  Ger-falcon, 362.

  Giffard, Lieut. R.N., H.M.S. "Alert," magnetic observer, 154;
    in charge of the printing, 164 (_n._), 169, 175, 215, 216;
    lecture on magnetism by, 169;
    parts taken by, in theatricals, 214.

  Gilbert, Sir Humphrey, musicians on board ship of, 7.

  Glaciers: of Jacobshavn, 32;
    of the Waigat, 36;
    of Omenak fiord, 38;
    near Cape York, Petowik, 48;
    Crystal Palace, 50;
    my brother John's (of Kane), 52;
    twin glaciers, 60, 61;
    of Grinnell Land, 64, 73, 83;
    in Bessels Bay, 99;
    Tyndall, 359.

  Glaucous gulls, 50.

  Godhavn, arrival at, 26;
    lovely weather at, 33;
    hospitality of the people, 33, 363, 364.

  Godthaab, expedition off, 24.

  Good, Joseph, petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," song by, 168.

  Gore, Wm., stoker, H.M.S. "Alert," song by, 216.

  Grampus, 21.

  Grand palæocrystic chorus, 216.

  Greenland, streams of ice, sweep down east coast of, 23;
    coast of, 25;
    natives on east coast, 69;
    insularity of, argument from tides, 92;
    distant view from Floe-berg Beach, 128;
    exploration of northern coast, 242, 346.

  "Greenwich," observatory at winter quarters so called, 152.

  Grinnell Land, description of, 67, 72;
    coast line, 94.

  Gulls, 50, 101, 332, 360.

  Guy Fawkes' day celebrated, 179.


  Hair frozen into solid masses, 209;
    effect of sledge travelling on colour of, 334.

  Hakluyt Island, 50.

  Hall Basin, 100, 101.

  Haloes, 200.

  Hannah Island, ships anchored inside, 100;
    visit to, 101.

  Hans Egede, 24.

  Hans Hendrik, Eskimo engaged at Proven, 39;
    endeavour to engage his brother-in-law, 48;
    seal shot by, 354.

  Hares, traces of, 60, 107;
    at "Alert's" winter quarters, 211;
    traces of, on the Polar Sea, 296, 314;
    left by Captain Nares for N. division, 321;
    shot, going south, 345, 351.

  Harmonium, obtained from the "Valorous," at church, 187.

  Hartstene Bay, arrival at, 51.

  Hawks, Cape, 83.

  Hayes, Dr., 51, 52, 53, 72, 73, 85, 99, 360.

  Hayes, Cape, Eskimo remains on, 69;
    ascent of, 90.

  Hayes Sound, 60;
    tides in, 62;
    intended exploration, 330.

  Henry Island of Hayes, not an island, 64.

  "Hercules," H.M. sledge, Lieut. W. H. May, R.N., 137, 217.

  Hilgard, Cape, Eskimo remains on, 69.

  Hoskins, Commodore A. H., sledging flagstaff presented by, 307.

  Housing for winter quarters, 154, 155, 156.

  Hudson's Bay Company's Taboggans, suitable in soft snow, 281.

  Hummocks, difficulty of marching over, on the Polar Sea, 278, 279, 281,
      284, 301;
    discoloured by mud, 301;
    great barrier of, 303;
    great size, 304, 305;
    different colours of, 316.

  Hunt, Wm., ward-room cook, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 214.

  Hydrostatics, lecture on, by Lieut. May, 169.


  Ice, first seen, 22;
    stream of, near Cape Farewell, 23;
    the middle pack, 44, 45;
    dangers, 65, 66;
    occupations when detained by, 66;
    ships stopped by, 57, 65, 73, 82, 90, 95, 103, 110, 113, 121, 344;
    amusements on the, 77;
    dock cut in the, 86;
    great height of, 89;
    increasing thickness, 96;
    extending across Hall Basin, 100;
    pressure on Cape Frederick VII., 114;
    of the Polar Ocean, 127, 147, 200;
    the dangerous state of the, in autumn travelling, 141;
    movement of, during winter, 184;
    character of, in travelling over the Polar Ocean, 284, 291, 300;
    symptoms of disruption, 315, 320;
    state of, on the voyage southward, 344.
    (_See_ Palæocrystic, Blasting, Floe-bergs, Hummocks.)

  Ice navigation, most important maxim in, 45;
    uncertainty of, 57, 64;
    qualities required for, 82.

  Icebergs first sighted, 22;
    constantly seen, 23;
    in Disco Bay, 32, 34;
    danger from, in the Waigat, 38;
    indicate shoal water, 60;
    danger from, off Albert Head, 65;
    ships endangered by, 91;
    number decreasing, 96;
    innumerable, 359.

  Independence, Cape, of Kane, 98.

  Insects collected, 351.

  Isabella, Cape, 356, 357;
    Captain Markham lands at, 56, 57, 95;
    letters at, 358.

  Itivdliarsuk glacier, 36.

  Ivory gull, 46, 50, 101.


  Jacobshavn, glacier of, 32.

  John Barrow, Cape, 93.

  Jolliffe, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," in N. division sledge
      party, holds out to the end, 326 (_n._).

  Joseph Henry, Cape, 127;
    Aldrich starts for, in the autumn, 136;
    depôt near, 147;
    dog "Sallie" lost at, 190;
    arrival of sledges at, 263;
    floes off, 282;
    encamped abreast of, 285;
    description of, 285;
    northern division of sledges reaches, 321;
    last seen, 343.


  Kane, Dr., his open polar sea, 72, 98, 360.

  Kardluk Point, in the Waigat, 36.

  Kayak, difficulty of using, 30;
    adventure of Mr. Wootton, 30;
    Eskimo pilot in, 43.

  Kennedy Channel crossed, 103;
    musk-oxen on east side of, 103.

  "Kew," magnetic observatory at winter quarters so called, 154.

  Kew Observatory, thermometer tested at, 223.

  King ducks, 50, 332.

  Knapsacks, sledging, contents, 235, 236.

  Knots, seen and secured at Distant Cape, 110.


  Lady Franklin Inlet, 103, 111.

  Lafayette Bay (of Kane), 98, 99.

  Lancaster Sound, geology, 67;
    remains of Eskimo on shores of, 68;
    "Alert" off mouth of, 360.

  Lemmings, traces of, 107;
    description, 115, 116;
    eaten by "Nellie," 212;
    traces away from the land, 278.

  Letters at Cape Isabella, 358;
    at Godhavn, 363;
    at Littleton Island, 358, 362.

  Lieber, Cape, 102.

  Lievely, 26.
    (_See_ Godhavn.)

  Life-boat Cove, visit to, 53.

  Light, lecture on, by Lieut. Parr, R.N., 169;
    return of, 207, 225.

  Lime-juice, regular daily issue of, 16;
    impossibility of using, while in a frozen state, away sledging, 238;
    taken on the sledges by Commander Markham and Lieut. Parr, 238;
    served out to sledge crew by Commander Markham, 305;
    useless unless the whole volume is thawed, 305;
    its use in the treatment of scurvy, 329;
    used on all sledge journeys when its use was possible, 330.

  Lincoln Bay, 115;
    coast between, and Cape Union, 121;
    depôt, 117, 248.

  _Little Vulgar Boy_, play acted by the officers, 214.

  Littleton Island, visit of Captain Nares and Commander Markham to, 53,
      55;
    not visited, going south, 358;
    mail at, 358, 362.

  Looms (_see_ Birds), 40, 41.

  Loom soup, 40.

  Louis Napoleon, Cape, Eskimo remains at, 69;
    passed by the ships, 90.

  Lyngenmarkfjeld, in Disco, ascent of, 31.


  M'Clintock, Admiral Sir Leopold, sledge of, the best, 281;
    superintends outfit of expedition, 2;
    his detention in the Melville Bay pack, 44;
    sledge equipments superintended by, 231;
    on the absurdity of taking frozen lime-juice on sledges, 238;
    tea-leaves recommended by, 316.

  Magnetic observations, 31;
    while sledging, 73, 180, 305;
    snow observatory for, 152, 153, 209.

  Magnetism, lecture on, by Lieutenant Giffard, R.N., 169.

  "Marco Polo," H.M. sledge, 137, 217, 259.

  Marine shells found above sea-level, 116.

  Markham, Commander Albert H., R.N., visit to Littleton Island, 53;
    to Cape Isabella, 56;
    to Hannah Island, 101;
    to Distant Cape, 110;
    starts on an autumn reconnaissance, 128;
    starts on second autumn sledge journey, 133;
    on main autumn sledge journey, 137, 144;
    in charge of magnetic observations, 154;
    lecture on astronomy, 169;
    parts taken by, 174, 214;
    followed by a wolf, 228;
    takes lime-juice on his sledge, 238;
    in command of the northern division of sledges, 242, 311;
    attains the most northern point ever reached by man, 309, 311;
    resolves to abandon large boat, 288, 289;
    serves out lime-juice, 305.

  Markham, Clements, on Eskimo wanderings, 68.
    (_See_ Clements Markham.)

  "Markham Hall," storehouse at winter quarters, 152;
    demolition of, 210.

  Maskell, William, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 169, 216;
    parts taken by, 174;
    sledge crew, N. division, holds out to the end, 317, 318 (_n._).

  May, Lieutenant W. H., R.N., starts on autumn travelling, 137;
    severely frost-bitten, 147;
    suffers amputation, 148;
    astronomical observer, 152;
    his lecture on hydrostatics, 169;
    manager of the theatre, 214;
    glee sung by, 216;
    sails his sledge, 231 (_n._);
    comes to the rescue of the northern division, 325;
    goes to succour Aldrich's party, 331, 332.

  Medical staff, their tests of the physical capacity of the officers and
      men, 15;
    unremitting care of the sick, 333.

  Medical inspections, 187, 204, 258, 326, 337.

  Medical stores for sledges, 238 (_n._);
    weight, 233.

  Medical instructions to commanders of sledges, 238.

  Melville Bay, 18, 44;
    passage through, 44;
    bear hunt in, 46.

  Melville Island, remains of Eskimo at, 69;
    musk-oxen at, 106.

  Men of the expedition, selection of, 4;
    tests of physical capacity, 15;
    regular daily issue of lime-juice to, 16;
    always reliable in an emergency, 125;
    sufferings and excellent conduct in autumn travelling, 134, 145;
    their good humour and wit, 146;
    frost-bites and amputations, 148;
    clothing during winter, 159, 160;
    school for, in winter, 166, 167, 213;
    theatricals, 171, 173;
    Christmas cheer, 195;
    fondness for dancing, 195, 197, 204;
    excellent health, 204;
    paleness on return of sun, 211;
    heroic conduct while sledging, 277, 286, 287, 291, 302, 310, 311,
      313, 316, 352.

  Meteor, brilliant, seen at winter quarters, 201.

  Meteorites at Ovifak, 31.

  Meteorological observations, 162, 180, 183, 223.

  Middle pack, Captain Nares's resolve to take the, 44.

  Miocene Period, coal of, discovered, 347.

  Mollies, 361.

  Moon, 181.
    (_See_ Paraselenæ.)

  Moravian missionaries, 24.

  Morton, Cape, 100, 102;
    depôt of, 100.

  Morton, Mr., his "open polar sea," 93;
    description of Cape Constitution, accurate, 98;
    unable to ascend cliff, 98.

  Mosquitoes, plague in Greenland, 32.

  Moss, Dr., surgeon, H.M.S. "Alert," reading by, 168;
    lecture on mock moons under the microscope, 169;
    makes a balloon on Guy Fawkes' day, 180;
    paints scenery for theatre, 171;
    succours the northern division, 326;
    sketch for bill of fare by, 335;
    paints the boats, 245.

  Murchison Sound, 50.

  Musical instruments, 7.
    (_See_ Harmonium, Piano.)

  Musicians in the ships of Sir H. Gilbert and John Davis, 7, 8.

  Musk-oxen, traces of, 60, 61;
    hunting, 104;
    range of, 106;
    traces in Discovery Harbour, 107;
    beef presented by "Alert" to "Discovery," 108;
    hunt in Shift-Rudder Bay, 113;
    quantity of meat from, 186, 204;
    meat nearly stolen by dogs, 207;
    in the summer, 338.

  Mustard and cress grown in the "Alert," 205, 211, 345.


  Nares, Captain George S., R.N., resolves to take the middle pack, 44;
    visits Life-boat Cove and Littleton Island, 53;
    constant vigilance, 66;
    visits Hannah Isle, 101;
    ascends hill above Cape Morton, 102;
    selects winter quarters for "Discovery," 107;
    observes opening in the pack, 114;
    catches a lemming, 115;
    desirous of finding a more sheltered spot for winter quarters, 128,
      135;
    his account of sledge travelling, 140;
    lecture on astronomy, 169;
    gives name to the Palæocrystic Sea, 200;
    excellent health and spirits of those under his command at the
      commencement of the New Year, 204;
    lecture on sledging experiences, 215;
    arrangement for opening communication with "Discovery," 246;
    unjust attack upon, regarding lime-juice, 237;
    absurdity of the charge against him, 238;
    his Union Jack taken with northern division, 258;
    at Cape Joseph Henry Depôt, 321;
    leaves hares for northern division, 321;
    comes to the relief of the northern division, 325, 327;
    decision to return home, 337, 346;
    anxiety for safety of Beaumont, 349;
    accepts offer of coal at Egedesminde, 363;
    lands at Valentia, 367;
    satisfaction of the Admiralty with his conduct of the Expedition, 368.

  Narwhal hunting, 59.

  Naturalist, zeal in a gale of wind, 19;
    visit to Ovifak, 31;
    finds Eskimo remains at Cape Beechey, 69;
    ascends hill in Bessels Bay, 101;
    at distant Cape, 110.
    (_See_ Feilden, Captain.)

  "Nellie," Commander Markham's black retriever, coveted by Eskimos at
      Proven, 39;
    dislike of Eskimo dogs, 78;
    surprise at the tabogganing, 188;
    stood the cold well, 188, 189;
    adventure with, in the unifilar house, 209, 210;
    eats the lemmings, 212;
    followed by a wolf, 228.

  Nelson, Lord, an old Arctic officer, 179.

  New Year's day, 202, 203, 204.

  Nip, preparations for, 65, 71, 83;
    off Cape M'Clintock, 94;
    south of Cape Beechey, 348.
    (_See_ Ice.)

  Norman-Lockyer Island, Eskimo remains on, 69, 74;
    visited, 73.

  North extreme, camp, 307, 308;
    farthest point ever reached, 309, 311.

  "North Water," of Baffin Bay, 47;
    of Smith Sound, 72, 97.

  Northumberland Island, 50.

  Norton Shaw Cape, passed by the ships, 94.


  Observations, scientific, in winter quarters, 180;
    difficulties, 180;
    while sledging, 305;
    at farthest northern point, 307, 310.
    (_See_ Magnetic, Meteorological, Astronomical.)

  Observatories, wooden, for transit instrument, 152;
    magnetic, 154;
    dismantling of, 227.

  Officers, selection, 4;
    tests of physical capacity, 15;
    amusements, 167;
    lectures by, 169;
    theatricals, 169, 173;
    scientific observations, 180;
    birthdays celebrated, 184;
    Christmas, bill of fare for, 196;
    approval of decision of Captain Nares to return, 337.
    (_See_ under names.)

  Omenak fiord, discharging glaciers in, 38.

  Orchestra, Royal Arctic Theatre, 171.

  Osborn, Rear-Admiral Sherard, C.B., dedication to, v.;
    on Eskimo wanderings, 68.

  Ovifak, visit of naturalist to, 31.


  Pack. (_See_ Ice.)

  Palæocrystic Sea, name given, 200, 234.
    (_See_ Frozen Ocean.)

  Palæocrystic floes in Robeson Channel, 92, 114, 118.

  Palæocrystic grand chorus, 216;
    sung at the most northern position ever reached by man, 310.

  "Pandora" brings letters to Cape Isabella, 358;
    at Godhavn, 363;
    sighted in the Atlantic, 366.

  Paraselenæ, 181, 200.

  Parr, Lieut. A. C. C., R.N., ascends the hill above Bessels Bay, 101;
    starts on autumn travelling, 133, 137, 144;
    sledge goes through the ice, 144;
    in charge of astronomical observatory, 152;
    lecture on light by, 169;
    takes lime-juice on his sledge, 238;
    an indefatigable road-maker, 286;
    sent to the ship for help, 322, 325.

  Parry, Sir Edward, his farthest northern point passed, 150;
    his sense of the importance of exercising and improving the minds of
      the men in winter quarters, 163, 166;
    attempt to reach the pole, 243 (_n._).

  Parry Islands, Eskimo remains on shores of, 68.

  Payer Harbour, 58.

  Pearce, Alfred, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 216;
    severely frost-bitten, 286;
    attacked by scurvy, 289.

  Pemmican, 237, 270.

  Pendulum Islands, Eskimos met with near, 69.

  Petermann fiord, 100;
    fine view of, 103.

  Petersen, Danish dog-driver, autumn travelling, 128, 129;
    starts for "Discovery," 248;
    frost-bitten, 248;
    efforts to save his life, 248 to 254;
    brought back to the ship, 254;
    death of, 255, 321.

  Petowick glacier, 48.

  Photographing at Godhavn, 31.

  Pinkey and Collins' patent topsails, 3.

  Plants, 31, 57, 60, 74, 107.
    (_See_ Vegetation.)

  Plays. (_See_ Theatricals.)

  Play-bills, 173, 175, 176, 214.

  Plymouth, visit from Commander-in-Chief, 11.

  Polar Ocean, 122, 128, 215, 234, 242;
    Parry's attempt to sledge over, 243 (_n._);
    march of the northern division over, 276, 311 (_see_ Hummocks), 285,
      301;
    young ice, 296.

  Polaris Bay, 100;
    state of lime-juice found in, 305;
    sledge-crew recruiting at, 346, 349.

  "Polaris," visit to her second winter quarters, 53, 54;
    her cruise, 72;
    Dr. Bessels of, 92, 99;
    land seen from, 101;
    musk-ox shot by crew of, 106;
    Eskimo kind to crew of, 360.

  Polarization of light, observations, 180.

  "Poppie," H.M. sledge, Lieut. Giffard, 217, 259.

  Poppies, 57, 74.

  Popular entertainments in winter quarters, 168, 169;
    programmes, 175, 176.

  Portsmouth Dockyard, ships fitting out at, 1;
    harbour, departure of expedition from, 9, 10;
    return to, 368.

  Potentillas, 340.

  Prayers, 187.
    (_See_ Divine service.)

  Presents to the expedition, 6, 7, 193, 194.

  President Land has no existence, 101.

  Prince Patrick Island, heavy pack on west coast of, 200.

  Prince Regent Inlet, formation of cliffs, 64, 67.

  Printing office in winter quarters, 164, 165;
    prospectus, 164;
    bills of fare, 185.

  Prologue, Royal Arctic Theatre, 172, 173.

  Protococcus nivalis, 48.

  Proven, arrival at, 38;
    survey of, 39.

  Provisions for sledging, weight, 233;
    scale, 237.

  Ptarmigan, 225.

  Pullen, Rev. W. H., chaplain, H.M.S. "Alert," glees by, 216;
    lecture on Arctic plants, 169;
    author of the prologue, 171, 172, 176;
    leads the choir, 187;
    Christmas bill of fare by, 196;
    lines on the New Year by, 202;
    a burlesque operetta written by, 214;
    grand chorus composed by, 216;
    service on departure of sledges, 258, 259;
    lines welcoming return of sledges by, 336.


  Queenstown, rendezvous at, 367.


  Radmore, John, chief carpenter's mate, H.M.S. "Alert," sledge crew in
      northern division, holds out against scurvy, 318;
    to the last, 326 (_n._).

  Radmore Harbour, Eskimo's remains at, 69.

  Rainbow, 325.

  Rawlings, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," captain of sledge,
      northern division, attacked by scurvy, 306.

  Rawlings Bay, 352.

  Rawson, Lieutenant Wyatt, R.N., joins the "Alert" from the "Discovery,"
      108;
    visits Distant Cape, 110;
    glees by, 169;
    parts taken in theatricals by, 174, 214;
    skill in tabogganing, 187;
    visit to snow hut built by, 212;
    accompanies Egerton on journey to "Discovery," 247;
    his efforts to save Petersen, 249 to 254;
    arrives from "Discovery," 346.

  Rawson Cape, 219, 343.

  Records left at Cape Isabella, 57;
    in cairn on Hannah Island, 101;
    at extreme northern point, 312;
    at Cairn Point (winter quarters), 341.

  Reindeer, Port Foulke, 52;
    traces, 60;
    scarce near Egedesminde, 365.

  Retrospect on New Year's day, 197.

  Reward for crossing 83rd parallel, 292 (_n._).

  Richardson Bay, 99.

  Right whales, 21.

  Rink, Dr., on the Eskimo, 33.

  Ritenbenk, expedition at, 34.

  Road-making on the ice, 273, 275, 277, 279, 286, 292, 294.

  Robeson Channel, 69;
    view of, 110;
    position on American chart not to be recognized, 115;
    palæocrystic floes of, 118;
    examination of fiords, 242.

  Rorqual whale, 21.

  Ross, Sir John, Arctic highlanders of, 48;
    red snow, 48.

  Rotges, or little auks, 46, 50, 360.

  Royal Arctic Theatre, 169, 170;
    prologue, 172;
    plays, 173, 214.

  Rudder, arrangement for unshipping, 3;
    head damaged, 67;
    unshipped for a nip, 83;
    seriously injured, 113;
    shifted, 113;
    frequent necessity for unshipping, 344;
    head badly wrenched, 344, 351.


  Sabine, Cape, 55, 57, 59;
    Eskimo remains on, 69;
    passed, going south, 356.

  Sails for sledges, 231 (_n._).

  "Sallie" suspected of robbing Rawson's depôt, 213.
    (_See_ Dogs.)

  Salt beef, character of, 154.

  "Sanderson, his hope," shooting looms at, 40.

  Sanitary condition of the men in winter quarters, 187.

  Saxifrage, 57, 74, 340.

  Scenery of Greenland, 24;
    from Disco, 31;
    in Disco Bay, 35;
    in the Waigat, 36;
    near Cape York, 48, 50;
    of the glaciers, 60;
    off Cape Hawks, 83;
    at winter quarters, 126;
    at the extreme northern point, 310, 311.

  School in winter quarters, 165, 166;
    last assemblage of, 213.

  Scientific observations in winter quarters, 180.

  Scoresby on the size of the rorqual, 21.

  Scoresby Bay, 94.

  Scurvy, 237;
    premonitory symptoms, 284, 285;
    dread of, 299;
    increasing symptoms, 303, 304, 305, 313;
    decrease of appetite, 314;
    extreme weakness, 317;
    outbreak on board the "Alert," 321;
    true causes of the outbreak, 329, 330;
    cure of patients, 333, 339, 345;
    patients convalescent, 365;
    outbreak in sledge crews of "Discovery," 346.

  Seals basking on the ice, 24, 45;
    shot by Hans, 354.

  Selection of officers and men for Arctic service, 4.

  Self, James, A.B., H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 216.

  Shells, marine, found above sea-level, 116.

  Shift-Rudder Bay, 114.

  Shirley, John, stoker, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 168;
    attacked by scurvy, 282;
    on the sledge, 284.

  Shooting parties in summer, 338 to 340.

  Sick. (_See_ Scurvy.)

  Simpson, Thos., H.M.S. "Alert," in sledge crew, northern division,
      attacked by scurvy, 306.

  Skating, 77, 110.

  Sky, beauty of, 83.
    (_See_ Meteor, Sun.)

  Sledges, description of, 231 (_n._);
    sails for, 231 (_n._);
    weight, 233;
    boats on, 242 (_n._);
    required for northern division, 244;
    dog sledge sent to "Discovery," 247;
    departure of sledges in the spring, 257, 258;
    sledge standards, 258;
    art of packing, 277;
    high-runner sledges the best, 281;
    (_See_ Dogs, Marco Polo, Hercules, Victoria, Bloodhound, Bulldog,
      Alexandra, Challenger, Poppie, Clements Markham.)

  Sledge crews, exercise of, 227.

  Sledging, first lessons in 58;
    with dogs, 79, 80, 81, 128;
    first experiences, 129;
    severe work, 133;
    details of, 137;
    shore-going notions of, 138;
    realities, 139;
    lecture on, by Captain Nares, 215;
    grand palæocrystic chorus, 216;
    preparations for, during the winter, 230;
    equipments superintended by Sir Leopold M'Clintock, 231;
    weights, 233;
    auxiliaries and depôts, 234;
    tents, 235;
    cooking apparatus, 235;
    contents of knapsack and storebag, 237;
    scale of provisions, 237;
    medical stores, 238 (_n._);
    clothing, 239, 240;
    programme of sledding, operations, 241;
    the first encampment, 260;
    intense cold, 259, 262;
    arrival at autumn depôt, 263;
    daily routine, 264 to 270;
    road-making, 273, 275, 276;
    increasing difficulties, 304;
    method of advancing, 295, 304, 306, 313;
    most northern encampment, 307;
    extreme northern point, 309 to 311;
    return journey of northern division begun, 312;
    northern division reaches land, 321;
    return of northern division, 327;
    western division, 331, 332;
    eastern division, 350.
    (_See_ Autumn, Hummocks, Temperature, Foot-gear, Cook.)

  Sleeping-bags, 139, 235, 240;
    weight of, 233;
    frozen hard, 280, 283, 287.

  Smith, Mr. Krarup, Inspector of North Greenland, his hospitality, 26,
      29, 363.

  Smith Sound, 47, 49, 69.

  Snow, crimson, 48;
    heavy falls in Smith Sound, 71, 73, 95;
    in Robeson Channel, 111, 119, 121;
    heavy falls during autumn travelling, 147;
    buildings with, 152, 153, 154;
    temperature at different depths, 162;
    heavy drifts during winter, 205;
    drifts while sledge travelling, 261, 287, 306.

  Snow blindness, precautions against, 240;
    use of goggles, 286, 303.

  Snow bunting seen by sledge crews, 319.

  Snow hut built by Rawson, 212.

  Sorrel, 345.

  Soundings at extreme northern point, 308, 309.

  Southsea Common, farewell to the expedition from, 9, 10.

  Specific gravity observations, 180.

  Spectrum analysis observations, 180.

  Standards for sledges, 258.

  Stanton, Cape, in sight, 103.

  Steam, lecture on by Mr. Wootton, 169.

  Stone, Geo., of the "Discovery," serving on board the "Alert," songs
      by, 174.

  Store-bag, sledging contents, 237.

  Stoves, 158.

  Stuckberry, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," parts and songs by,
      173, 216.

  Summer, 337, 339.

  Sumner, Cape, in sight, 103.

  Sun, sets at midnight, 127;
    final disappearance, 141;
    last view of, 148, 150;
    date of final departure, 151, 178;
    longing for the return of, 207;
    return of, 219, 220, 221, 222;
    effect of, on the ice, 207, 313.

  Sylvester heating apparatus not supplied, 158.

  Symons, Robert, A.B., H.M.S. "Alert," printer, 164 (_n._), 169, 175,
      216;
    songs by, 214.


  Tabogganing, 187.

  Taboggans, Hudson's Bay Company's sledges, suitable for soft snow, 281.

  Temperature, observations for, 162;
    variations during winter, 183;
    extreme cold, 223, 224;
    while sledging, 259, 262, 278, 283, 286, 290, 294, 295, 302, 313,
      314, 320.

  Tents, 139;
    weight, 233;
    description of, 235, 260.

  Terns, 110, 332.

  Tests of physical capacity, 15.

  Theatricals, dresses, 171;
    orchestra, 171;
    prologue, 172;
    play-bills, 173, 175, 176, 214;
    plays, 173, 214.

  Thermometers tested, 224.

  Thermometrical observations, 162, 223.
    (_See_ Temperature.)

  "Thursday pops," 168, 169, 175, 176, 215.

  Tidal observations at Twin Glacier Bay, 62;
    in winter quarters, 161, 180.

  Tides, meeting of, at Cape Fraser, 92;
    in Polar Sea, 304, 309.

  "Tigress," at Life-boat Cove, 53.

  Torske bank, fishing on, 25.

  Trafalgar day celebrated, 179.

  Turnstones, 360.

  Twin Glacier Bay, 61.

  Tyndall Glacier, 359.


  "Unies." (_See_ Narwhals.)

  Unifilar House, 209.

  Union, Cape, 101, 103, 118;
    rounded, 121, 122;
    pressure on, 125, 343.

  Union Jack of Captain Nares, taken with the northern division, 258;
    planted at the most northern point, 309.

  Upernivik, 41, 42, 43, 358.


  Valentia, "Alert" at, 367.

  "Valorous," H.M.S., to take out stores to Disco, 6;
    joins the Arctic ships, 11;
    to make the best of her way to Disco, 14;
    at Disco, 28;
    kindness of captain and officers, 33;
    farewell to, 35;
    lost sight of, 37;
    jolly-boat landed at Dobbin Bay, 84;
    harmonium obtained from, 187.

  Vegetation at Godhavn, 31;
    at Cape Isabella, 57;
    at Twin Glacier Bay, 60;
    at Norman Lockyer Island, 74;
    in Discovery Harbour, 107;
    lecture on Arctic plants by Mr. Pullen, 169;
    of the Arctic summer, 340.

  Ventilation during winter, 158;
    drip, 182.

  "Victoria," H.M. sledge, Lieut. Parr, R.N., 137, 217, 259;
    goes through the ice, 144.

  Victoria Head, 67.

  Von Buch, Cape, 93.


  Waigat, scenery of, 36;
    danger from fogs and icebergs, 37;
    steam out of, 38.

  Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, visit to Arctic ships, 8.

  Wales, Prince of, Mountains, 50.

  Walrus seen on the ice, 45, 74;
    hunts, 74, 75, 76.

  Walter Bathurst Cape, 360.

  Warming apparatus not supplied, 157.

  Warming arrangements during winter, 157, 158.

  Washington Irving Island, ancient cairns on, 85.

  Weights for sledging, 232;
    to be dragged by each man, 233;
    in Parry's expedition, 243 (_n._).

  Welcome of sledge travellers to ship, 335, 336;
    of the expedition, on return to England, 368.

  Whales, 20, 21. (_See_ Cetaceans.)

  Whale Sound, 49, 359.

  White, Mr., engineer, H.M.S. "Alert," lecture on history by, 169;
    part taken by, at the theatricals, 174;
    improvement of sledge-cooking apparatus by, 236.

  Willow, 74.

  Wind. (_See_ Gales.)

  Winter, approach of, 126.

  Winter quarters, precarious nature of at Floe-berg Beach, 126, 132;
    preparations for, 151 to 254;
    routine, 160.
    (_See_ Ventilation, Warming, Housing, Clothing, Fire-hole, Amusements.)

  Wolf, appearance of a, 228, 229.

  Wolves, traces of, 60, 107, 321;
    alarm of, 199.

  Woman Islands, 41.

  Wood, Sergeant, H.M.S., "Alert," recitation and song by, 216.

  Woolley, Wm., H.M.S., "Alert," parts and songs by, 173.

  "Woolwich," snow powder storehouse at winter quarters so called, 154;
    dismantling of, 227.

  Wootton, Mr., engineer, H.M.S. "Alert," adventure in a kayak, 30;
    his lecture on steam, 169, 175;
    glee sung by, 216.


  York, Cape, 47, 49.

  Young, Sir Allen, gratitude to, for bringing out letters, 358, 362.




THE END.

PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES.





End of Project Gutenberg's The Great Frozen Sea, by Albert Hastings Markham