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Transcriber's Note:

  Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have
  been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.

  Italic text is denoted by _underscores_, bold text by =equal
  signs=, and spaced text by ~tildes~.

  Four advertisements originally at the front of this book were moved to
  join the rest of the advertisements at the back.




     THE MOTOR ROUTES
     OF ENGLAND

     WESTERN SECTION




     ALREADY PUBLISHED
     IN THE SAME SERIES

     MOTOR ROUTES
     OF ENGLAND

     _SOUTHERN SECTION_
     (South of the Thames)

     With 24 Illustrations in Colour

     'The touring motorist ... will find Mr. Home exactly the
     sort of companion who will add sensibly to the pleasures of
     the day's run. All along the main roads he gossips brightly
     of history, architecture, and archæology, and manages to
     convey a large amount of information without being
     unpleasantly didactic.'

     _Pall Mall Gazette._


     THE MOTOR ROUTES
     OF FRANCE

     _TO THE CHÂTEAUX COUNTRY,
     BIARRITZ, THE PYRENEES,
     THE RIVIERA, AND THE
     RHONE VALLEY_

     Containing 16 full-page Illustrations in Colour, 16 in Black
     and White, and 63 Maps and Plans

     'A guide-book of a modern and very superior kind; eminently
     practical, admirably concise, sufficiently detailed and
     comprehensive, and, in addition, beautifully illustrated
     and bound.'--_Standard._

     'The traveller who has this work for a companion may feel
     assured that he will miss little of interest or importance
     along the way.'--_Westminster Gazette._

     A. AND C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON


     AGENTS

     AMERICA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
     64 & 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK

     AUSTRALASIA OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS
     205 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE

     CANADA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD.
     ST. MARTIN'S HOUSE, 70 BOND STREET, TORONTO

     INDIA MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD.
     MACMILLAN BUILDING, BOMBAY
     309 BOW BAZAAR STREET, CALCUTTA

     GERMANY, AUSTRIA-HUNGARY, }
     RUSSIA, SCANDINAVIA, AND  } BROCKHAUS AND PEHRSSON
     GERMAN SWITZERLAND        } 16 QUERSTRASSE, LEIPZIG




  [Illustration: DISTANT VIEW OF BETTWS-Y-COED.]




     THE
     MOTOR ROUTES
     OF ENGLAND

     BY
     GORDON HOME

     (_ASSISTED BY CHARLES H. ASHDOWN_)

     WESTERN SECTION
     WITH
     16 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR, AND
     16 TOWN PLANS AND 26 ROUTE MAPS

     ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK
     SOHO SQUARE, LONDON · MCMXI




PREFACE


There have been many inquiries for this new volume of the 'Motor
Routes of England,' which I should have been glad to publish a year
ago had the necessary time been at my disposal. Finding that there was
little chance of getting the book out even this year, I obtained the
help of Mr. Charles H. Ashdown, who has written a considerable portion
of the letterpress under my supervision. We motored over a great part
of the routes together last year, and part of North Wales, which I had
no time to visit, Mr. Ashdown motored through in my car without me.
Although he knew the country intimately, I thought it better, from the
motorist's point of view, that he should go through the district
afresh. I hope, therefore, that, having taken great pains to give the
latest available information, this book will prove of use to all who
take their cars into Wales and those parts of England which are
included.

As in the previous volumes of this series, I am greatly indebted to
the Secretary of the Touring Department of the Royal Automobile Club
for his exceedingly kind assistance in working out the routes. They
are planned on the accumulated experience of a great many members of
the club, who have placed their knowledge at the disposal of their
fellow-members.

My experience of the Daimler 38 h.-p. car in which we toured through
the greater part of Wales and the adjoining English counties was, as
before, entirely satisfactory. We never had to give a thought to the
running of the car in the hundreds of miles of mountainous roads we
traversed.

Although the route maps accompanying the text are generally sufficient
for all the ordinary needs of the touring motorist, I do not think it
desirable to travel without the sheets of Bartholomew's
half-an-inch-to-the-mile reduced survey maps. The coloured contours
are of such service in showing the chief features of the surrounding
country that I always feel happier with them. The sheets required for
this book are numbered 8, 11, 12, 16, 17, 18, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 28,
29, 30.

I have been asked by those who have used the previous volumes of this
series to give a list of hotels, and in that printed at the end of
this book I give the names of those hotels I can recommend. I shall be
exceedingly grateful to any reader who discovers any inaccuracies in
this book if he will be kind enough to let me hear of them.

                           GORDON HOME.

     43, GLOUCESTER STREET,
       WARWICK SQUARE,
         LONDON, S.W.
           _May 1, 1911._




CONTENTS


     TRUNK ROUTE

     SECTION                                                 PAGE

     I. LONDON TO DUNSTABLE, 32 MILES                           1
     II. DUNSTABLE TO ATHERSTONE, 72½ MILES                    18
     III. ATHERSTONE TO SHREWSBURY, 59 MILES                   29


     LOOP No. 1

     (a) SHREWSBURY TO CHESTER, 39½ MILES                      38
     (b) CHESTER TO MOLD AND RHYL, 35½ MILES                   52
     (c) RHYL TO SHREWSBURY, 86½ MILES                         61


     TRUNK ROUTE

     IV. SHREWSBURY TO LLANDUDNO, 81½ MILES                    75
     V. LLANDUDNO TO BANGOR, 18¾ MILES                         89


     LOOP No. 2

     BANGOR TO BETTWS-Y-COED, 20¼ MILES                        98


     TRUNK ROUTE

     VI. Bangor to Dolgelley, 65¾ Miles                       103


     LOOP No. 3

     DOLGELLEY TO CEMMAES VIA TAL-Y-LLYN, 40 MILES            119


     LOOP No. 4

     CEMMAES TO ABERYSTWYTH AND LLANGURIG, 49¾ MILES          127


     TRUNK ROUTE

     VII. DOLGELLEY TO LLANGURIG, 48¼ MILES                   134


     LOOP No. 5

     (a) TALGARTH TO ST. DAVID'S, 117¼ MILES                  142
     (b) ST. DAVID'S TO HEREFORD, 132¼ MILES                  162


     TRUNK ROUTE

     VIII. LLANGURIG TO ABERGAVENNY, 68 MILES                 180
     IX. ABERGAVENNY TO GLOUCESTER, 84¼ MILES                 189


     LOOP No. 6

     (a) HEREFORD TO SHREWSBURY, 54¾ MILES                    219
     (b) SHREWSBURY TO HEREFORD, 81¼ MILES                    232


     LOOP No. 7

     GLOUCESTER TO BATH, MALMESBURY, EVESHAM,
       TEWKESBURY, AND GLOUCESTER, 153 MILES                  243


     TRUNK ROUTE

     X. GLOUCESTER TO OXFORD, 50 MILES                        269


     LOOP No. 8

     OXFORD TO STRATFORD-ON-AVON, COVENTRY, BANBURY,
       AND OXFORD, 110 MILES                                  280


     TRUNK ROUTE

     XI. OXFORD TO LONDON, 67½ MILES                          305


     TABLE OF THE SOVEREIGNS OF ENGLAND, THE CHIEF
     EVENTS OF THEIR REIGNS, AND THE ARCHITECTURAL
     PERIODS                                                  320

     A LIST OF MOTOR-CAR SIGNS                                323

     A LIST OF HOTELS                                         326

     INDEX                                                    327


NOTE.--Anyone wishing to plan a tour including the West of England and
Wales will find that this book joins with the Southern Section volume
at Bath and Windsor, and the large maps at the end of the books will
show other points between those places where the motorist can run from
one book into the other with only the slightest gap.




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS


     1. Distant View of Bettws-y-Coed.             _Frontispiece_

                                                      FACING PAGE

     2. Lichfield Cathedral                                    32

     3. Shrewsbury House, Chester                              65

     4. Swallow Falls, near Bettws-y-Coed                      72

     5. Conway from Benarth                                    89

     6. Conway Valley                                          96

     7. Distant View of Penmaenmawr                           113

     8. Snowdon from Traeth Mawr                              120

     9. Hereford Cathedral from the Banks of the Wye          176

     10. The Wye, Symond's Yat, near Monmouth, Herefordshire  185

     11. Coming Night, near Beddgelert                        201

     12. Tintern Abbey                                        208

     13. Church Porch at Northleach                           281

     14. Stratford-on-Avon                                    288

     15. Ford's Hospital, Coventry                            297

     16. Magdalen Tower and Bridge, Oxford                    304

     _Map showing the whole of the routes at the end of volume._




LIST OF PLANS


     PAGE

     1. St. Albans                                              7

     2. Dunstable                                              16

     3. Shrewsbury                                             77

     4. Chester                                                44

     5. Conway                                                 91

     6. Carnarvon                                             106

     7. Hereford                                              177

     8. Worcester                                             237

     9. Gloucester                                            212

     10. Tewkesbury                                           265

     11. Cheltenham                                           271

     12. Oxford                                               307

     13. Warwick                                              291

     14. Leamington                                           294

     15. Coventry                                             299

     16. Bath                                                 251


     Chester Cathedral                                         46

     Valle Crucis Abbey                                        72

     Carnarvon Castle                                         107

     St. David's Cathedral                                    159

     Gloucester Cathedral                                     215




THE

MOTOR ROUTES OF ENGLAND

WESTERN SECTION

SECTION I

(TRUNK ROUTE)

THE HOLYHEAD ROAD

LONDON TO DUNSTABLE, 32 MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                               Miles.

     =London-Marble Arch= to Elstree              11½
     =Elstree= to St. Albans                        8
     =St. Albans= to Dunstable                    12½


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

From the =Marble Arch= to =Elstree= the surface is very good, in spite
of trams for part of the way.

=Elstree= to =St. Albans=.--A hilly but good road.

=St. Albans.=--Speed limit, 10 miles per hour; dangerous cross-roads
in centre of town.

=St. Albans= to =Dunstable=.--Excellent surface, almost level.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Edgware.=--An old-fashioned village.

=Elstree.=--A charmingly situated village, overlooking Aldenham Park.

The road through Highgate, Finchley, and Barnet passes the following
places on the way to St. Albans:

  =Chipping Barnet.=--A growing town, much modernized; church,
  Perpendicular style, but recently almost entirely rebuilt.

  =Monken Hadley.=--A pretty village; interesting church with cradle
  beacon affixed to tower; obelisk of Battle of Barnet.

  =South Mimms.=--Small village; Perpendicular church, with traces of
  Early English; the Frowyke Chapel, with effigy.

  =Salisbury Hall.=--A sixteenth-century moated grange.

=St. Albans.=--Cathedral, Early Norman (1077) to Decorated, of
exceptional interest; great gateway of the monastery; Roman walls of
_Verulamium_ and British causeway; medieval clock-tower; sites of the
two battles; St. Michael's Church, Saxon, with monument of Bacon; old
timbered houses.

=Redbourne.=--Small village; church, Norman and Early English; fine
chancel screen.

=Dunstable.=--Ancient town, with earthworks; Priory Church, Transition
Norman, impressive west front.


THE STARTING-POINT

The best and most direct route from London to the finest scenery in
Wales, as well as to many of the most picturesque towns and districts
in the western half of the central or midland portion of England, is
the Holyhead Road. The older route books invariably give the General
Post Office as the best starting-point, and this has been indicated
on the route map on this page, and that road beyond Barnet is
described, but as the Edgware Road is so much preferable in many ways,
the distances by that way are given at the head of this section. From
the Marble Arch the road goes as straight as an arrow, passing through
Maida Vale, Brondesbury, and Cricklewood. The Welsh Harp Reservoir is
crossed, and the villages of Edgware and Elstree passed through, and
the road from Barnet is joined at St. Albans.

[Map: (TRUNK) No. 1. LONDON TO DUNSTABLE.]

By the older route shown in the map the first open country is not
reached until Barnet is passed. Barnet itself is now a suburban town
without any interest.


MONKEN HADLEY

Upon leaving Barnet, a slight detour to the right, occupying a few
minutes, leads to Monken Hadley Church, of varied styles of
architecture. It stands upon high ground near the road, and is
picturesquely surrounded by trees and pleasantly situated old houses
on a village green. The iron cradle beacon affixed to the tower is an
object of great rarity. It was used in past times to signal the
approach of disturbers of the peace. A tall obelisk near the church
was erected early in the eighteenth century to mark the site of the
battlefield of Barnet, 1471, immortalized in Bulwer Lytton's 'Last of
the Barons,' and memorable for the death of the great King-maker. A
road with a few easy turns in it leads back to the main route. It
passes ~Wrotham Park~, the seat of the Rev. the Earl of Strafford, whose
family name is Byng. Within one of the rooms the oak cabin of the
flag-ship once occupied by Admiral Byng has been erected, conveyed
thither when the vessel was broken up. Since 1757, when the Admiral
was shot upon his own quarter-deck, _pour encourager les autres_, no
Byng has entered the navy, the family having transferred its
allegiance to the army as a mild protest.


SOUTH MIMMS

The church contains traces of Early English architecture, but the main
features are Perpendicular. In the Frowyke Chapel, separated from the
church by a Perpendicular parclose screen, is a well-preserved effigy
of the Transition period and an interesting brass let in the floor.
The door to the vanished rood-loft is in good condition, and a
low-side window may be found in the chancel. Thomas de Frowyke, died
1448, is buried under the tower; the inscription states that six sons
and twelve daughters furnished the matrimonial quiver. The
ecclesiologist with time upon his hands will find an interesting
church at North Mimms, about two miles across country (see map),
standing in the grounds of an Elizabethan mansion. From South Mimms a
long and easy ascent leads to the summit of Ridge Hill, where the
massive tower of St. Alban's fane comes into view in the midst of a
beautiful landscape. An equally long and easy descent leads to a turn,
where a cottage stands upon the left, at some white gates. This is the
entrance to ~Salisbury Hall~, a picturesque moated grange of exceptional
interest, with quaint gables, twisted chimneys, and beautiful
surroundings. Originally built in the time of Henry VIII. by Sir John
Cutts, Treasurer of England, it subsequently was occupied by the
well-known Sir Jeremy Snow. Nell Gwynn was often here, recouping from
Court revels, and tradition asserts that Prince Charles sought refuge
within its walls after the Battle of Worcester. Visitors are generally
permitted to walk up to the farmyard to see the front of the house. At
~London Colney~ a piece of water is crossed. ~Tyttenhanger~ lies to the
right, at a distance of about two miles; it was the country house of
the Abbots of St. Albans, and has been adapted to modern requirements.
The road from here to St. Albans is easy, but care should be exercised
at the cross-roads in the centre of the town, where a policeman
generally regulates traffic.


  [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 1--ST. ALBANS.]

ST. ALBANS

A walk through the cloisters opposite the Great Red Lion Hotel affords
a striking view of a considerable part of the vast Abbey Church, the
most ancient of the great churches in England. It stands upon higher
ground than any other cathedral in the British Isles, and is the
longest next to Winchester. It possesses, moreover, the longest Gothic
nave in the world. The Norman tower, dating from 1077, is composed of
Roman bricks from the neighbouring _Verulamium_, and flints, bricks,
and stone from the same site may be detected in the walls. The walk
leads round to the southern part of the church, through the ancient
sumpter-yard, with its fine old cedar, and thence to the west front,
the site of the demolished monastery showing in irregular heaps upon
the left.

_The nave is open to the public free of charge. Sixpence is charged
for entrance to the eastern portions (threepence each for a party of
ten). Open from_--

     _November 1 to February 28_      _10 a.m. to 4 p.m._
     _March 1 to April 30_        }   _10 a.m. to 5 p.m._
     _September 16 to October 31_ }
     _May 1 to September 15_          _10 a.m. to 6 p.m._


_Building Dates._

_Roman Period._--St. Alban was executed upon this spot, presumably in
the amphitheatre, in 303, and a church was erected to his memory by
the Christians of Verulam in 313, which was still standing in Bede's
time.

793. Offa the Great, King of Mercia, founded the monastery, and either
repaired and enlarged the Romano-British church or built a new one.

1077. Shortly after the Conquest, Paul de Caen, a relative of
Lanfranc, was appointed the first Norman abbot, and proceeded to
demolish the church, subsequently erecting a great Norman building in
its place, the remains of which--viz., the tower, transepts, parts of
the nave and the presbytery--still remain.

On entering by the west front, which has been rebuilt by Lord
Grimthorpe, the first part of the nave is Early English, dating from
_c._ 1214, and one of the best examples in England. Farther on Norman
bays, dating from 1077, are upon the north, while opposite them are
Decorated Gothic bays, built _c._ 1323 to replace the Norman work
which had fallen. The screen has been despoiled; it was erected in
1350. Passing through the door, the abbot's entrance from the
cloisters is seen upon the right, and the south transept is reached,
having a curious feature, the slype of Transition Norman work at the
south end. The tower dates from 1077, and is the largest and heaviest
of the Norman towers now remaining in England. Eight of the baluster
columns round the triforia are from the former Saxon church, and date
from 793. The choir-stalls are new, and above them is a remarkable
ceiling, the panels dating from 1368 to 1450. The north transept is
the reputed site of St. Alban's martyrdom. In the presbytery is the
high-altar screen, only rivalled by that at Winchester, and dating
from 1484. It is the work of Abbot Wallingford, was despoiled at the
Reformation, and recently restored by the late Lord Aldenham. South of
it lies the chantry tomb of Abbot Wheathampstead, and north that of
Abbot Ramryge. Leaving by the north door, the presbytery aisle is
reached, partly Norman and partly Early English. The old doors from
the west front preserved here date from the time of Henry VI.
Proceeding eastwards, the entrance to the Saint's Chapel is on the
right. Here is the far-famed shrine of St. Alban, or rather the
pedestal of the shrine, since the shrine itself was portable, and
rested upon the top of the structure. It dates from 1306, was
demolished in 1539, and built up in the three lancets at the east end
of the chapel. When the arches were opened some time since, the
fragments were recovered and put together. The tomb of Humphrey, Duke
of Gloucester (died, or murdered, 1447; see Shakespeare, _Henry VI._,
Part II.), stands on the south of the chapel; the coffin may be seen
by raising the trap-door. On the north side is the Watching Gallery,
where a monk sat to guard the shrine and its treasures. It dates from
_c._ 1400. There is only one other in England.

Leaving by the north door again, the shrine of St. Amphibalus, dating
from 1350, is seen. It was likewise demolished at the Reformation. The
Lady Chapel and its ante-chapel were erected between 1260 and 1320,
and exhibit Early English and Decorated architecture. They have been
restored under Lord Grimthorpe. Forty nobles who fell in the first
Battle of St. Albans are interred here. At the Reformation the chapels
were converted into school premises for St. Albans Grammar School, and
used as such for 300 years. The stone carving is particularly
beautiful. Passing out by the south door, an altar slab is seen, with
its five crosses; a grille, dating from _c._ 1270, which is the only
trellis screen in England; and upon the south the openings to former
external chapels. In the Wheathampstead Chapel may be seen the brass
of Abbot de la Mare (1349 to 1396), reputed to be the finest
ecclesiastical brass in existence.

The ~Great Gateway of the Monastery~, opposite to the west front of the
Abbey Church, dates from 1361, and now forms part of St. Albans
Grammar School, one of the oldest, if not _the_ oldest, scholastic
foundations in the kingdom. It was probably founded in the reign of
King Edred, about 948, and among the eminent personages attending it
have been Alexander Nequam, foster-brother of Richard I.; Matthew
Paris, who left the school in 1217 and entered the monastery; Sir John
Mandeville, the famous writer of his supposed travels, who lies buried
in the abbey; and Nicholas Breakspere, born in 1090, who subsequently
became Pope of Rome, the only Englishman who has attained to that
dignity. In 1195 the school was the largest in England. In 1381 the
gates were forced by the rioters in Wat Tyler's rebellion and the
precincts of the monastery invaded; and in 1480 the third
printing-press in England was set up in the building. Among
post-Reformation scholars one of the most distinguished was Francis
Bacon.

At the bottom of the lane leading from the monastery gateway is the
well-known Fighting Cocks Inn, reputed to be the oldest inhabited
house in Britain, and a few steps from it the River Ver. Crossing the
stream, the British causeway is reached, one of the most ancient
earthworks in Great Britain, and the Roman walls lie just beyond. The
visitor here stands upon soil which recalls memories of the earliest
period in the chronology of English history.

~Verulamium.~--At the time of Cæsar's invasion, 54 B.C., Cassivelaunus
was ruling over a great tract of country, with his capital at
_Verulamium_, the home of a long line of ancestors. The Roman general
captured the city and exacted tribute. In A.D. 42 the town submitted
to the Romans under Aulus Plautius, but was sacked and burnt by
Boadicea and her followers in A.D. 61. Rebuilt and fortified with
walls and towers, it was the first Roman city built in Britain. Its
area is 203 acres. In A.D. 58 Nero made it a _municipium_, or free
city, York being the only other town so honoured. It was essentially a
trading and residential city, and became the capital of Southern
Britain. In 303 St. Alban was led out of the gates and martyred upon
Holmhurst, where the Abbey Church was subsequently erected. By 436 the
Roman occupation had ceased, and swarms of Picts and Scots, Irish
pirates, and Northmen overran the district. Many battles were fought,
and in 516 _Verulamium_ was sacked and burnt. It served as a quarry
for many hundreds of years, yielding building materials for the
monastery and town. The only Roman theatre as yet discovered in
Britain came to light about fifty years since, and the foundations of
the largest building as yet unearthed in our islands were revealed a
few years ago. The thorough excavation of the whole site is being
mooted at the present time.

~St. Michael's Church~ is of Saxon architecture, dating from 948. It
contains an Elizabethan pulpit with hour-glass stand, and the tomb and
statue of Francis Bacon, Viscount St. Albans.

The ~Two Battles of St. Albans~ were fought in 1455 and 1461, the first
chiefly in St. Peter's Street and its byways, and the second upon
Bernard's Heath, lying to the north of St. Peter's Church, in whose
churchyard many thousands of the slain were interred.

The ~Clock Tower~ in the High Street dates from 1410, and contains a
medieval bell of beautiful workmanship, _c._ 1403, the curfew bell.

Other objects of interest in St. Albans are Sopwell Ruins, St.
Stephen's Church, and Gorhambury, two miles distant, the house of the
Bacons.

       *       *       *       *       *

Shortly after leaving St. Albans by the Redbourn road, the River Ver
is crossed at Bow Bridge, and here the Watling Street from London,
which has passed through the centre of Verulam, joins the road, and
from this point until Chester is reached the way lies almost entirely
upon this great Roman artery. It is intact from London to St.
Stephen's Church, St. Albans, and, with a few gaps, from near Bow
Bridge to Chester.

At ~Redbourn~ a few quaint old houses still linger in the long, narrow
street. To reach the church, which is Norman and Early English, a turn
to the left is taken at the entrance to the village. It contains a
very fine chancel screen.

Flamstead lies half a mile off the main road, at the summit of a steep
hill. The church has recently been restored--a restoration in the true
sense of the word.

A long, steady rise through beautiful country eventually leads to


DUNSTABLE

The modern town is successor to the ancient station of _Durocobrivæ_
and a great Roman market, the _Forum Dianæ_.

[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 2--DUNSTABLE.]

The district is remarkably rich in British and Roman remains: Maiden
Bower, a circular British earthwork, and Totternhoe, a combined
British and Roman fort, lie at short distances from the town (see
Map). The Watling Street is crossed here in the centre of the town by
the Icknield Way, and a piece of the Roman road was exposed near this
spot, which was 9 inches thick and intensely hard, of cemented flints
and sandstone.

Turning to the right, along Church Street (part of the Icknield Way),
the priory church, with its beautiful west front, is seen upon the
right.

~Dunstable Priory Church.~--Founded 1131, the church is but a fragment
of that which formerly stood here. Tower, transepts, chancel, and Lady
Chapel have disappeared, and even the nave, which remains, has been
curtailed. The body of Queen Eleanor rested here in 1290 upon its
progress to London; and in 1533 Archbishop Cranmer held his court in
the church, and formally divorced Queen Catherine of Aragon from the
King. The priory was dissolved in 1534. The greater part of the
building is Transition Norman, the chevron and billet ornamentation
being of excellent workmanship. The north aisle is Perpendicular. In
the chancel are ten balusters of Flemish design and execution.
Undoubtedly the great feature of the building is the exquisite west
front, which, though suffering in parts from recent restoration, still
delights the ecclesiologist. It contains four orders of architecture,
which effectually harmonize with one another.

Mr. Worthington G. Smith, the eminent local antiquary, has written a
most admirable handbook to the town, which will supplement these brief
particulars.




SECTION II

(TRUNK ROUTE)

DUNSTABLE TO ATHERSTONE, 72½ MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                           Miles.
     =Dunstable= to Hockliffe                  4½
     =Hockliffe= to Fenny Stratford            7¼
     =Fenny Stratford= to Stony Stratford      7
     =Stony Stratford= to Towcester            8
     =Towcester= to Daventry                  12¼
     =Daventry= to Kilsby                      5½
     =Kilsby= to Lutterworth                   9¾
     =Lutterworth= to Cross-in-Hand            2½
     =Cross-in-Hand= to High Cross             3¾
     =High Cross= to Atherstone               12


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

=Dunstable to Daventry.=--Undulating in places, but with good surface
to Daventry.

=Daventry to Lutterworth.=--Poor road to Kilsby; 4 miles from Kilsby
an ascent of 1 in 14, followed by a descent of 1 in 12; then a
gradually improving road to Lutterworth.

=Kilsby to Atherstone.=--Undulating road, with good surface.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Fenny Stratford.=--A small town with a Georgian church.

=Stony Stratford.=--A small town with no great interest.

=Towcester.=--Easton Neston House and Park.

=Daventry.=--Small town; historic inn.

=Lutterworth.=--Quiet country town; associations with Wycliffe,
especially in the Perpendicular church, where the great Protestant's
pulpit is still to be seen.

=Cross-in-Hand.=--Roman centre for roads.

     =Nuneaton.=--Two miles off the main road to the south-west; the
     George Eliot country.

     =Hartshill.=--Two miles off route; remains of Norman castle.

=Mancetter.=--Church, Roman camp, and manor-house.

=Atherstone.=--A small manufacturing town on the Watling Street,
without any interesting features.


  [Map: (TRUNK) No. 2. DUNSTABLE TO ATHERSTONE.]

Shortly after leaving Dunstable a long, easy descent of the northern
slope of the Dunstable Downs occurs, these hills being part of the
Chilterns. A fine view over a large part of Bucks and Beds is seen in
front, and an interesting sweep of the Downs behind. A number of
sleepy little villages occur, each presenting rural features of its
own in harmony with the surroundings. At Hockliffe a side-road leads
to the beautiful Woburn Park and Abbey. At ~Fenny Stratford~, a small
town chiefly consisting of one street, the Roman station of
_Magiovintum_ was situated, and coins and other remains are
frequently found; the only modern association appears to be connected
with Browne Willis, the antiquary, who is buried here. The church is
early Georgian, dating from 1724. Seven miles farther on, ~Stony
Stratford~, a small uninteresting town, is reached, known chiefly in
history through having had an Eleanor Cross, which disappeared in
Puritan days, and also from the capture of Edward V. by his uncle, the
Duke of Gloucester. ~Bradwell Abbey~, founded in 1155, now a farmhouse,
lies about three miles away to the right.

From Stony Stratford to Towcester the route runs as straight as an
arrow, and one can imagine the metalled track of the road the legions
tramped lying but a few feet beneath the surface. ~Towcester~ is the
ancient _Lactodorum_, and the later Tove Castra, or Camp on the River
Tove, which flows through the town. Few, if any, Roman remains are now
visible, and Easton Neston House with its picturesque park is the only
feature of interest in the neighbourhood.

The road to Weedon is somewhat undulating, and rises in places to 500
feet above sea-level, an altitude which has not been reached since
leaving Dunstable. At Weedon it is necessary to make a detour to the
left, as the Watling Street for some considerable distance has been
allowed to fall into disrepair; in fact, it is merely in some cases a
trackway through grassy fields, with farmers' gates across the
vanished road. The restoration of this part of the Roman way has been
proposed at times, but never carried out, the considerable cost and
the paucity of towns and villages probably accounting for it. This gap
in continuity is to be deplored for sentimental reasons, but not for
practical utility, as the track is at times more than undulating.


DAVENTRY

~Daventry~ is a small town possessing but few attractions beyond its
historic hotel, the Wheat Sheaf, built in 1610, and known in the
annals of Warwickshire as the resting-place of Charles I. (after the
taking of Leicester) for six consecutive days in 1645, the Royal
troops, both horse and foot, in considerable numbers occupying the
surrounding fields. The regal bedchamber may be seen and even
occupied, while the courtyard, famous in duelling days, is visible
from its window. In one encounter in 1696 a young ensign, named
Gardner, gasped out his life after a duel to the death with his
lieutenant. Near Daventry lies Althorp Park, the seat of Earl Spencer.
In this medieval house, not greatly altered since, James I. and
William III. were entertained.

On leaving Daventry the road turns sharply to the right to ~Kilsby~,
with a poor surface most of the way. It passes through a well-wooded
country, and a short distance beyond Kilsby joins the Watling Street
at an acute angle. Upon looking backwards, the line of the ancient
highway may be distinctly traced through the fields. From this point
until Atherstone is reached, a distance of nearly twenty-three miles,
Leicestershire lies upon the right-hand side of the road and
Warwickshire upon the left.

~Dunsmore Heath~ is then crossed, and shortly afterwards two lines of
railway are passed, the source of the Warwickshire Avon being near the
first at Dove Bridge. At Churchover is the birthplace of Cave, of
_Gentleman's Magazine_ fame. The main road from Rugby to Lutterworth
branches off to the right. Near this point, on the brow of the hill,
just north-west of Cave's Inn and on both sides of the Watling Street,
is the site of the great Roman station _Tripontium_. The remains have
almost disappeared, but pieces of pottery are plentiful, and coins are
now and then unearthed.


RUGBY

lies a few miles to the west of the main route, and is famous for its
great school, founded in 1567, being one of the four great public
schools in England. The buildings are chiefly in the Tudor style, and
date from 1808, with many subsequent additions. Besides the school,
there are practically no objects of interest in the town. The road to
Lutterworth is slightly undulating, with a good surface.


LUTTERWORTH

is a quiet little country town of about 2,000 inhabitants, lying in a
pastoral district fissured occasionally with wooded valleys. It is a
typical foxhunting centre. The main street descends a hill somewhat
abruptly, and crosses a small bridge over the River Swift, from which
point the ashes of Wycliffe were scattered. The church is endeared to
the champions of Protestantism by its associations with Wycliffe, and
by the tangible relics which are preserved in it of his residence here
from 1375 to 1384. The architecture of the church is chiefly of the
fourteenth century. The nave is early Perpendicular, but a Decorated
window occupies the end of the south aisle, where there was formerly a
Lady Chapel. The chancel also is Perpendicular, with an Early English
window and door. It is thus somewhat difficult to point out work which
belongs to that period when Wycliffe ministered in the building. The
greater part of the nave, however, may be thus assigned, and also the
fresco over the north doorway, showing a queen between two kings. Over
the chancel arch is another fresco. The nave roof is Perpendicular,
but the pulpit, from which the reformer preached, is the great object
of interest, dating as it does from a period anterior to Wycliffe's
incumbency, and is thus over 500 years old. A fragment of a cope or
chasuble is interesting as an undoubted relic, but the chair, table,
and wooden candlesticks must be regarded with suspicion--the chair
more than the others. The 'Morning Star of the Reformation' was buried
in the chancel, where his remains rested for thirty years; they were
then dug up, burnt, and cast into the river.

The road from Lutterworth, rejoining the Watling Street, emerges at
the ~Cross-in-Hand~, where care must be taken in the selection of the
right road. From Cross-in-Hand to High Cross there is nothing of
particular moment, but at the latter place, where five roads meet, was
one of the most important junctions of Roman highways for the Watling
Street. It is crossed here by the Foss Way coming from Gloucester, and
leading through Leicester to Lincoln. The great station of _Venonæ_ or
_Benones_ was situated here, but has entirely disappeared. Taking the
road marked 'To Holyhead,' the road leads over Smockington Hill, and a
few miles farther on a turning on the left to Nuneaton (two miles off
the main road) is reached.

~Nuneaton~ lies in the centre of the 'George Eliot' country, and is the
Milverton of the novelist, while Chilvers Coton near it figures in
'Scenes of Clerical Life,' and 'Oldinport' may be traced in
'Newdegate,' the family name of the residents at Arbury Hall, a
delightfully situated country-seat a few miles to the south-west of
the town. Beyond this Nuneaton possesses no special features, except a
church built in the Decorated period, and another--St. Mary's--a
modern replica of the Abbey Church which formerly occupied the site.

The spire of ~Hinckley Church~ is now seen upon the right, six miles to
the north of which lies the ~Battlefield of Bosworth~. The North
Warwickshire Coalfield has now been reached, and in the high ground
upon the left there is an interesting geological district. The stone
quarries worked there were formerly supposed to produce Millstone
Grit of the Carboniferous formation, but which has recently been
proved to be pre-Cambrian, and necessarily the most ancient of rocks.
~Hartshill~ is in this district; it is the birthplace of Michael
Drayton, and contains a few ruins of a Norman castle dating from 1125.
To the right of the Watling Street lies Fenny Drayton, where George
Fox, the founder of the sect of Quakers, was born. Before entering
Atherstone the small village of ~Witherley~ is passed upon the right,
and the River Anker here divides the site of the great Roman station
of _Manduessedum_ into two parts. The name has been anglicized into
~Mancetter~. The oblong earthwork yet remains, about 630 feet long and
440 feet broad. The church stands on the ruins of the western side of
the camp. Many coins have been found here, and great masses of Roman
masonry lie beneath the soil. The summer camps lie upon the adjacent
hills. The first turning on the left, after passing the bridge, leads
in a few minutes to Mancetter Manor House, originally built in 1135,
and presenting a quaint Edwardian appearance at the present day. In
1432 the Glovers occupied it, one of whom suffered martyrdom in the
Marian persecution.


ATHERSTONE,

a singularly uninteresting looking town, whose staple manufacture is
felt hats, has a long, straggling street, a portion of the Watling
Street, and during sewage operations about fifty years ago the remains
of the original Roman road came to light, at some depth below the
present surface; some of the paving-stones, grooved by chariot wheels,
were in places cemented together. Henry of Richmond slept at the Three
Tuns Inn, now demolished, the night before Bosworth Battle, and heard
Mass in the church, which is not of great archæological interest.




SECTION III

(TRUNK ROUTE)

ATHERSTONE TO SHREWSBURY, 59 MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                         Miles.

     =Atherstone= to Fazeley                 7
     =Fazeley= to Tamworth                   1½
     =Tamworth= to Lichfield                 7
     =Lichfield= to Muckley Corner           2¾
     =Muckley Corner= to Four Crosses Inn    8¾
     =Four Crosses Inn= to Gailey Station    2¾
     =Gailey Station= to Shifnal            11¾
     =Shifnal= to Oakengates                 4¾
     =Oakengates= to Shrewsbury             12¾


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

=Atherstone to Lichfield.=--Undulating road with fine surface.

=Lichfield to Shifnal.=--Almost level; surface fairly good, but the
direct road (Watling Street) is rough and has some steep hills near
Oakengates. The =Shifnal Loop= is, therefore, recommended. (See Route
Map 3.)


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Tamworth.=--An ancient town; historic castle; Perpendicular church.

=Lichfield.=--Cathedral; statue of, and associations with, Samuel
Johnson.

=Shifnal.=--Pretty town, with quaint timbered houses; church Norman,
Early English, and Decorated.

=Wroxeter.=--The Roman _Uriconium_; Roman remains.


  [Map: (TRUNK) No. 3. ATHERSTONE TO SHREWSBURY.]


At ~Atherstone~ the railway is passed by a bridge, superseding a former
level-crossing. Immediately to the left a road leads to the site of
the almost demolished ~Merevale Abbey~, the chapel of which is still
used as a parish church, and contains recumbent effigies of the
Ferrers family. The road to Fazeley is undulating and uninteresting.
To the south of the town lies ~Drayton Manor~, the seat of the great Sir
Robert Peel. Here one is forcibly reminded by ocular evidence that
this is a mining district. A turning to the right leads to


TAMWORTH,

one of the most ancient towns in Warwickshire and Staffordshire, for
it stands in both counties. It was a royal residence in the time of
the Heptarchy, and from that remote period to the present time the
castle has been of more or less importance--in fact, it is one of the
most ancient buildings in Central England. The mound upon which it
stands is of British origin; Queen Ethelfleda (died 918) erected the
castle which, with many alterations and additions, meets the view at
the present day. It has recently been acquired by the Corporation, and
is open to visitors. The ancient causeway leading to the entrance
presents the finest example of Saxon 'herring-bone' masonry to be
found in the kingdom. The circular keep is of picturesque red
sandstone, which does much to mitigate the effect of the Perpendicular
windows. The venerable building was the home of the Marmions, the
Frevilles, and the Ferrers, and in 'Marmion' we find:

     'They hailed him lord of Fontenaye,
     Of Lutterward and Scrivelbaye,
       Of Tamworth Tower and Town.'

The last of the Marmions died in 1291. The bases of the dungeon walls
are four yards thick, and a visit to the castle interior gives the
impression of massive solidity.

Tamworth Church, founded in the eighth century, was destroyed by the
Danes in 874, and rebuilt by King Edgar. In 1345 it was burnt, but
rebuilt. The crypt and two Norman transept arches remain of the early
building. The late Perpendicular tower contains a curious double
staircase, and is a prominent feature for many miles round.


LICHFIELD

The road to Lichfield lies by the side of the River Tame for some
distance, but it passes through a colliery district; some finely
wooded knolls, however, occur on either side of the road. About three
miles before reaching the city the barracks are seen upon the right,
with an extensive common for training purposes; at the same time the
three Cathedral spires, 'The Ladies of the Vale,' form an attractive
feature in the landscape. The road leads directly to the ~Cathedral~,
which is one of those exquisitely pretty ecclesiastical edifices which
one wishes to put under a glass case for preservation from the
elements. It has been the seat of a bishopric since the seventh
century, and is connected with St. Chad. A Norman church succeeded the
Saxon edifice, but has entirely disappeared. The earliest part of
the present building, the west choir, dates from _c._ 1200; the south
and north transepts followed, and the nave and west front date from
about 1275. The eastern parts were finished in 1325. The central spire
was destroyed during the Civil War, and rebuilt by Sir Christopher
Wren.

_The Cathedral is open to the public from 9.30 to 5 on weekdays._

  [Illustration: LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL.
   It is one of the smaller cathedrals, but its workmanship is of
   an exquisite richness.]

Upon entering the west front, which is one of the most beautiful in
England in the Decorated style, the Early English nave with dog-tooth
mouldings, the clustered pillars, and the fine vaulting, impress one
by their beauty and gracefulness. In the north transept one finds five
lancet windows, with Perpendicular examples on either side. In the
south transept the vaulted roof, with its huge bosses, and the large
Perpendicular window are special features, and here the rich stained
glass and the warm appearance of the red sandstone produce an effect
upon which the eye delights to dwell. The choir, with its side aisles,
richly vaulted roof, and huge windows springing from the triforium, at
once attract the visitor's attention. The early Decorated blank
arcading of the aisles is interesting, as is also the peep afforded
into a building upon the south side. In the south aisle of the
retro-choir a celebrated monument, the 'Sleeping Children,' touches a
chord that vibrates in the nature of all who possess the tenderness of
human sympathy. The Lady Chapel has rich Decorated arcading upon its
walls, from above which spring nine windows with trefoil tracery. In
seven of these is the stained glass that once adorned the great
Cistercian nunnery of Herckenrode, in the Bishopric of Liège. It dates
from 1530, and was brought to England after the suppression of the
nunnery in 1802. Although one of the smallest of English cathedrals,
Lichfield is singularly impressive by reason of beautiful details and
graceful proportions. Although actually situated in a valley, its site
is the highest in England, with the exception of St. Albans.

In the Market Square stands the statue of Samuel Johnson, opposite
the house in which the great lexicographer first saw the light.

       *       *       *       *       *

In order to rejoin the Watling Street, the road marked 'To Cannock'
should be taken, and about one and a half miles from the city a
turning to the right leads to that place. Continue, however, in the
same straight line for another one and a half miles, and the Watling
Street will be struck, leading off to the right at Muckley Corner. The
Roman station of _Eteocetum_ lies about one mile to the south-east at
Wall, where the Rycknield Street starts for the North. This is missed
by the detour to Tamworth and Lichfield.

Near Brownhills Common a large piece of water--Cannock Chase
reservoir--lies to the right, and farther on another reservoir is
passed. Two miles beyond Gailey railway-bridge is the site of the
Roman station of _Pennocrucium_, near a roadside inn, and immediately
afterwards the Shropshire Union Canal crosses the road by an aqueduct.
Boscobel House and Park lie about a mile towards the south, with the
famous oak in which Charles hid himself after Worcester. A straight
run of seven miles passes by Weston Park, renowned for its beauty, and
brings one to a turning on the left, the main road to Shifnal. It is
advisable to pass through Shifnal and regain the Watling Street
farther on, and thus avoid the extremely bad road between Redhill and
Oakengates.

~Shifnal~ is an interesting little town, possessing many quaint old
timbered houses, with overhanging upper stories, often enriched by
carving. A turning to the right in the middle of the town leads to the
~Church~. It possesses many curious remains of Norman architecture,
among which are the chancel arch and a portion of the south transept.
The main structure is Early English and Decorated, the tower arches
being of the former period. The tomb and effigy of the Prior of
Wombridge, 1526, and some Elizabethan monuments are in the chancel.
Over the south porch is a parvise, which projects in a novel manner
into the church, and is supported there upon two pillars.

From Shifnal to Oakengates, the reputed site of _Uxaconium_, is mainly
downhill, and through a colliery district, with all the usual
concomitants pertaining to it. After a run of about six miles, during
which the Wrekin, 1,335 feet high, lies to the left, a turning at an
inn is reached leading to


WROXETER

This is the ancient _Uriconium_, destroyed by fire in the fifth
century, and the imposing Roman remains form one of the chief
attractions for visitors in the immediate vicinity of Shrewsbury. To
the archæologist it is of supreme interest, as an immense variety of
Roman remains have come to light, including many parts of the massive
walls, the basilica and public baths. There are also exposed to view
well-preserved examples of the hypocausts of villas. Should a detour
be made to the site of this important Roman town, the largest
encountered since leaving _Verulamium_, a good road will be found
leading back to the main route, and thence to Shrewsbury. Continuing
on the main road, one crosses the Severn, and keeps it for some time
upon the right hand. Entering Shrewsbury, the centre of the town is
approached by a steep hill, 1 in 10, where caution must be exercised
on account of the traffic.

(_For town plan of Shrewsbury, see p. 77._)




LOOP No. 1

=FIRST PORTION=: SHREWSBURY, WHITCHURCH, CHESTER--=SECOND PORTION=:
CHESTER, MOLD, ST. ASAPH, RHYL--=THIRD PORTION=: RHYL, DENBIGH,
RUTHIN, CORWEN, LLANGOLLEN, RUABON, WREXHAM, ELLESMERE, SHREWSBURY


SHREWSBURY TO CHESTER, 39½ MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                     Miles.
     =Shrewsbury= to Wem Church         10¾
     =Wem Church= to Whitchurch          8¾
     =Whitchurch= to Broxton            10
     =Broxton= to Chester               10


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

On leaving =Shrewsbury=, descent of 1 in 10 in the town; dangerous.

Road to =Chester= usually in good condition; surface splendid; no
steep gradients.

Between =Shrewsbury= and =Wem=, undulating.

From =Whitchurch=, general fall from about 400 feet to sea-level at
=Chester=.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Battlefield of Shrewsbury, 1403.=--About 3 miles from Shrewsbury;
Battlefield Church, Perpendicular.

=Wem.=--Obelisk to Rowland Hill.

=Whitchurch.=--Busy country town; church dating from 1711.

=Rowton Moor.=--Three miles from Chester; battlefield, 1645.

=Chester.=--One of the most picturesque walled towns in England;
Cathedral; town walls; the 'Rows' and other old houses.


  [Map: Loop 1. SHREWSBURY TO CHESTER.]

Leaving Shrewsbury by the Battlefield Road, and passing through the
unprepossessing parts of the old town, the church standing upon the
site of the battle becomes a conspicuous object when the higher ground
is reached, about a mile from the town. This remarkable memorial of
the terrible slaughter which took place in 1403 is necessarily of the
Perpendicular period, and at the present time is a simple parish
church, to which flocks a congregation eminently agricultural.
Restorations have taken place at various periods, but sufficient
remains of the original to make it of great interest. The site is that
upon which the fiercest part of the battle occurred, and where, after
the fight, the dead were crowded by hundreds into vast pits; for the
slaughter upon that fatal day was tremendous, numbering probably 8,000
men. The army of Glendower, the Mortimers, and the Percies lost 5,000
men by the most moderate estimate, and that of the victor, Henry of
Bolingbroke, was but little less, chiefly owing to the deadly accuracy
of the Cheshire bowmen of Percy's army, who at first almost
succeeded in winning the fray. But the King's army was double the
number of his opponents, and that always told in a civil war. For
three hours before sunset the struggle waged round the site of the
church, and when at last Percy's army broke and fled, they made for
Wem to the north, or the higher, wooded ground to the east. The road
to Whitchurch passes through Wem, from which Hawkstone Park may be
seen towards the west upon high ground, and the obelisk to Rowland
Hill. The scenery upon the route is eminently characteristic of
English pastoral life, with farmsteads and cottages nestling in
charming seclusion amid a wealth of foliage, or upon the summits of
the small undulations which diversify the Shropshire plain. At
intervals stretches of heath alternate with the cultivation, while
along the whole route the Welsh mountains form a broken sky-line to
the west.

~Whitchurch~ is a busy country town with a market, and forms a centre
for the trade of the district. The remains of the castle which once
existed here were visible down to 1760, but now no traces can be seen.

~The Church.~--The old church of Whitchurch fell in 1711, and the
edifice built upon the site is in heavy Romanesque architecture. There
are monuments in it to the Earls of Shrewsbury, one in armour being
representative of John, the first Earl, who was killed at Bordeaux in
1453, and whose remains were brought from France to be interred here.

Soon after leaving Whitchurch, Overton Scar forms a conspicuous
feature in the landscape, lying to the left near the vale of the Dee.

~Cholmondeley Castle~, three miles to the west of Malpas Station, is the
seat of the Marquis of Cholmondeley, and is situated in the Peckforton
Hills. The younger son of David le Clare settled here in Norman times.
The present castle is a modern building erected in the Norman style,
while the old hall, of Elizabethan foundation, was, unfortunately,
placed in the hands of Vanbrugh for restoration, and became so
completely altered in appearance that one would hardly guess its
origin. The district lying around these hills was the scene of many
encounters between the Royalists and Parliamentarians. Near Broxton
Station stands ~Carden Hall~, one of the most beautiful examples of
timbered mansions in the country. It was built in the time of
Elizabeth, but the Cardens were here in the reign of Henry VIII. The
Hall was garrisoned by the Royalists, but after being captured by the
other side was plundered, like most of the mansions in this county.
About a mile farther on ~Aldersey Hall~ stands to the left, about ten
furlongs from the road. It is asserted that it has been occupied by
the family of that name since the Norman Conquest.

In ~Handley Church~ a good brass may be seen of the Venables family, and
~Calveley Hall~, once a manor-house and now converted into a farmhouse,
has a good oak staircase and some excellent wainscotting in the rooms.

~Rowton Moor~ is reached next, where the Royalists suffered a defeat in
1645. The road passes through the battlefield.


  [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 4--CHESTER.]

CHESTER

From Shrewsbury the road into Chester leads into Foregate Street, and
presently, after passing through a street of uninteresting suburban
character, the city proper is entered by the east gate in the walls,
the archway of which passes over the road. Upon the left is the
Grosvenor, a comfortable and well-managed hotel, conveniently situated
as a centre for seeing the many features of interest in Chester. The
journey from London along the Watling Street has been upon the track
of the Roman legions, and here at Chester--the ancient Deva--is found
the ultimate object of their journey, for this was the headquarters of
the famous Twentieth Legion, which occupied the town shortly before
the Boadicean Rebellion in A.D. 61, and remained there until the
evacuation of Britain in the early part of the fifth century. The old
town is suggestive of Rome's imperial power, for the ichnography of
the city to-day resembles in a remarkable fashion the great military
castra of the conquerors of the world.

  [Map: PLAN OF CHESTER CATHEDRAL.
   _Based on that published by the late Dean Howson._]

One of the first objects of interest is the ~Cathedral~, situated about
two minutes from the hotel by passing up Werburgh Street. It is one of
the red cathedrals, and owing to the sandstone of which it is composed
being of a friable nature, the veneering of the edifice with new stone
unfortunately deprives it of that aspect of age so characteristic of
the majority of the great churches of England. The earliest building
standing on the site is said to have been put up in the second
century, but of that no traces exist. The present structure dates from
the twelfth century, and has architecture as recent as the sixteenth.
Upon entering by the west door some Norman work is apparent at the end
of the nave, but its general style is Perpendicular; there is no
triforium, and the fenestration springs directly above the arches,
where an unornamental balustrading breaks the junction. The huge
Perpendicular window at the west end is not of any particular merit.
The large south transept was until recently used as a parish church,
and is remarkably spacious; it is late Decorated, and possesses
beautiful tracery in the window of the west aisle. Passing into the
choir, which is early Decorated, and has been completely restored, one
finds some exquisite work in the canopies of the stalls, which are
undoubtedly the finest in the kingdom. Especially interesting are the
quaint misereres; the Bishop's throne and pulpit are, however, modern.
A characteristic feature of architecture occurs in the triforium,
where four arches are superposed upon each of the bays below them. In
the north aisle wall are preserved some magnificent mosaics,
presented to the cathedral in 1886. The screen across the choir is
Perpendicular, and of singular beauty, but it prevents the eye from
perceiving the full length of the church, making it appear shorter
than is actually the case. The north transept is small, with Norman
work below and Perpendicular above. It will readily be seen that there
are two periods in the Norman work. The large tomb on the floor of
this transept is the resting-place of Bishop Pearson, who died in
1696. He is well known for his work on the Creed. The cloisters are
entered through a Norman doorway at the east end of the north wall of
the nave; the style throughout is Perpendicular, and the work on three
sides of the square is picturesque; the south side, which had
perished, has been rebuilt. An early Norman passage lies along the
west side of the cloister. The chapter-house, which may be entered
from this spot, is exceptionally worthy of a visit. It is of Early
English architecture and a beautiful example of the style; the
vestibule is, perhaps, more chaste than the chapter-house, and the
manner in which the mouldings of the pillars run up unbroken into the
vaulting is a striking feature.

Upon leaving the cathedral by the same door at the west front and
turning to the right, the imposing Town Hall is seen in Northgate
Street, and opposite to it is the abbey gateway, a fine example of
Norman and Early English work, deserving more than a passing glance.
Continuing up Northgate Street, the ~Town Walls~ are reached, and can be
climbed by steps; the masonry here is probably of Roman origin. A few
paces to the right lead to the Phoenix Tower (_entrance 1d._), from
the summit of which Charles I. witnessed the defeat of his troops on
Rowton Moor, September 27, 1645, and not September 24, as stated on
the tablet. Retracing one's steps, the Shropshire Union Canal lies
below, occupying a portion of the ancient moat. The raised platform
upon the right which is now encountered affords a very fine view of
the surrounding country, and beyond is the Half-moon Tower, called
'Pemberton's Parlour.' From here the battlements lead to
Bonwaldesthorne's Tower, now used as a museum, and upon the level
sward below the visitor may perceive a number of Roman remains,
including a hypocaust, or warming apparatus, altars, and other
remains. The projecting isolated defence at this point is known as the
Water Tower. Continuing the walk, the well-known racecourse, called
the 'Roodee,' or 'Isle of the Cross,' is seen upon the right,
enclosed by a loop in the river, and presently the group of buildings,
consisting of the assize courts, gaol, and barracks, appear upon the
left, the whole being classified under the name of 'the Castle.' The
picturesque old bridge is next encountered, and here it is advisable
to leave the walls, as the remainder of the route is devoid of
interest.

Passing up Bridge Street, the third turning upon the right is Pepper
Street, and after traversing this strangely named thoroughfare, the
~Church of St. John the Baptist~ is soon reached, one of the most
interesting buildings in the city. It was originally intended to be
the cathedral for the former diocese, which embraced practically the
whole of Mercia, but the dignity was conferred upon Coventry. The
ruins consist of very picturesque Norman work, with Norman and Early
English flanking arches. By applying to the sexton, who is usually in
the church, the Norman crypt may be visited. The nave of the church
has Norman cylindrical pillars, dating from about 1090; the triforium
arches are Early English of about a century later. A very fine lancet
window is at the west end. The central tower fell in 1574, and crushed
the east end of the church, which has never been rebuilt. The base of
the tower shows rich Norman arches, with clustered columns supporting
them. Traces of frescoes may be seen here. There are many displaced
monuments now resting at the west end; one, a knight, dates from _c._
1240, and a lady from _c._ 1400.

Retracing one's steps through Pepper Street, and passing up Bridge
Street, ~St. Peter's Church~ is reached. It was built on the site of the
Roman Prætorium, and in A.D. 907 the Church of SS. Peter and Paul was
removed here by Ethelfleda from the site of St. Werburgh's. The
edifice is mentioned in Domesday as the Church of St. Peter. The
rectors' names are preserved from 1195. The church is square in plan,
and consists only of four aisles; the architecture is Perpendicular,
and rude Georgian galleries disfigure two of the aisles. The far-famed
~Rows~ of Chester may be visited from this point; they are found in
Eastgate Street and Bridge Street in particular, but Watergate Row
should on no account be missed, because two houses of the south side
are striking specimens of seventeenth-century architecture. One bears
the inscription 'God's Providence is mine inheritance,' which is
supposed to allude to the preservation of the family occupying it from
the plague. On the same side, No. 11, is a remarkable medieval crypt,
now occupied by Quellyn Roberts and Co., wine merchants, who readily
allow visitors to descend into the vaulted chamber.

This list of interesting sights of Chester is by no means exhaustive;
an exploration of the streets in almost any direction will afford
glimpses of old-time quaintnesses nestling in unsuspected byways, and
the eye can dwell with pleasure upon many architectural details and
rich colour schemes.




LOOP No. 1--SECOND PORTION

CHESTER TO MOLD AND RHYL, 35½ MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                           Miles.
     =Chester= to Broughton                    5
     =Broughton= to Mold                       7
     =Mold= to Caerwys                         9½
     =Caerwys= to St. Asaph                    8
     =St. Asaph= to Rhuddlan                   3¼
     =Rhuddlan= to Rhyl                        2¾


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

=Chester to Mold.=--Tramcar-lines to Saltney, flat; then splendid
surface.

=Broughton.=--Ascent 1 in 21; then level to Mold.

=Mold.=--Fairly long hills to Caerwys; then level to Rhyl, except a
descent near Trefnant.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Mold.=--Small county town; church of florid Henry VII. architecture;
Bailey Hill, site of a British fortress; scene of the 'Alleluia
Victory.'

=Cilcain.=--Church with magnificent oak roof.

=Caerwys.=--Pretty scenery; the residence of Llewelyn.

=Bodfari.=--Roman station.

=St. Asaph.=--Small town, with cathedral, smallest in England and
Wales.

=Rhuddlan.=--Edwardian castle, ruins.

=Morfa Rhuddlan.=--Scene of a great battle between Offa of Mercia and
Caradoc.

=Rhyl.=--Watering-place; splendid sands.


  [Map: CHESTER TO MOLD AND RHYL. LOOP 1 (SECOND PORTION).
   NOTE.--Denbigh is omitted on the way from Mold to Rhyl.]

On leaving Chester the Grosvenor Bridge is crossed, and as far as
Saltney the road is occupied by tram-lines, while on looking backwards
a fine view of the city walls is obtained. After Saltney an excellent
road through the marshes enables one to see the wide estuary of the
river; but at Broughton, where the left-hand road should be taken, a
stiff rise of two miles leads to a plateau with an average elevation
of nearly 500 feet above sea-level, upon which the road remains for
the next twelve miles. The country here is well wooded, and Halkin
Mountain presents a fine appearance in front. The outskirts of a small
colliery district, with its centre at Buckley, are passed near
Padeswood, and presently Mold, the county town of Flint, is reached.


MOLD

The town, which is rather sleepy and depressing, contains a church at
the summit of a steep hill to the right, thoroughly rebuilt in the
florid Tudor period early in the sixteenth century. The nave has some
ornate four-centred arches, and in the chancel some reputed
eighth-century work has been incorporated.

Behind the church is the commencement of the ascent to Bailey Hill, an
eminence partly natural and partly artificial. It was once a British
fortress, and was subsequently occupied by a medieval castle, now
entirely vanished, and pleasure-grounds occupy the site. In the
immediate neighbourhood of Mold there are many objects of considerable
interest to the antiquary and geologist, such as the site of the
'Alleluia Victory,' won by an army of Christian converts under
Germanus, and who, by shouting 'Alleluia!' struck the Picts and Scots,
to whom they were opposed, with panic. In 1833 a gold breastplate of
Celtic workmanship was unearthed near the town, and is now a treasured
object in the British Museum. The ascent of Moel Fammau, 1,823 feet,
the highest peak in the Clwydian range, from which a magnificent
panorama is obtained, is easily accomplished from this town.

Mold was once a flourishing place, with mines and smelting-works in
its vicinity, but they have now become unprofitable, with the
inevitable result of lowering the vitality of the town. The road
leading to St. Asaph passes a few coalpits near Mold, but presently
winds about in a valley between the Clwydian Range and the Halkin
Mountain. The village of ~Cilcain~ lies to the left of the route, at a
distance of two miles, on the lower slopes of Moel Fammau, and is
noted for the magnificent carved oak roof of its church, brought from
Basingwerke Abbey, near Holywell. Nature is now in her pleasantest
mood, and as the road winds with many a sharp turn down the long slope
towards ~Caerwys~, the mountains on both sides become softened and
rounded, and clothed in many parts with trees to their summits. Upon
the hills to the left lie a succession of interesting British camps,
the strongest and most extensive being Moel Arthur, 1,494 feet,
reached just before Nannerch appears by a road which branches off
close to a stone circle. ~Caerwys~ is believed to have been a Roman
station. It was at one time celebrated for its meetings of the bards,
or Eisteddfodau, and also as being the residence of the last native
Welsh Prince, Llewelyn ap Gruffydd. The whole of this district is rich
in memories of the past, and abounds in interest. After passing
Bodfari, where the railway crosses the road, a bridge over the River
Clwyd is reached, and directly afterwards the turn to the right should
be taken. (That to the left leads to Denbigh.)

At this point one says good-bye to the track of the Roman legions,
~Bodfari~ (_Vara_) being the last of the stations to be passed. The
Roman road went straight ahead towards the west, and finished at
_Segontium_, which will be seen when passing through Carnarvon. Thus,
nearly all the way, from St. Albans through Shrewsbury to Chester, the
Watling Street has been followed.


ST. ASAPH

This small village-city of 2,000 inhabitants is of consequence only on
account of its cathedral, conspicuously placed upon high ground, and a
prominent feature for many miles. To reach the time when this ancient
see did not exist, one must travel back before the sixth century. The
first building, of wood, was destroyed by fire in 1282, and the
edifice which succeeded it was nearly razed to the ground during the
wars under Owen Glendower. The present church practically dates from
1482; the choir, however, was not completed until 1770. It was
restored by Sir Gilbert Scott. St. Asaph is the smallest British
cathedral, being 182 feet long and 68 feet across the nave. The
interior presents the aspect of a spacious parish church, and
possesses only a few objects of interest. The east window is
Decorated, and the tracery of the side-windows based upon traces of
Early English work. The effigy of an Abbot in Episcopal robes, and
probably dating from the fifteenth century, lies in the south
transept. The road out of St. Asaph descends a steep hill, requiring
caution, and a run of about three miles along a level road, with a
sharp turning to the right over a bridge, leads to


RHUDDLAN CASTLE

The entrance to the Vale of Clwyd is one of the chief strategic points
in Wales, and the elevated knob upon which the castle stands has, from
the most remote antiquity, been a place of strength. The early Welsh
fortress had additions early in the tenth century; it was taken by the
nephew of the Earl of Chester in 1098, and enlarged about sixty years
afterwards. The Welsh, however, captured it from the English in 1167,
and Llewelyn subsequently held it; but Edward I. gained possession,
and built the whole castle anew in 1277 upon an adjacent site. The
enormous walls, impressively grand in their massive proportions, are
his work. The castle appears to have remained in an efficient
condition to the time of the Civil War, when it was held by the
Royalists; but General Mytton captured it in 1646, and not long
afterwards it was dismantled. As one stands on the site, one
endeavours to visualize some of the many scenes of desperate warfare
which have happened upon and around this bold sandstone bluff, and the
cattle standing knee-deep in the translucent waters of the Clwyd, and
lazily brushing aside the clouds of flies, seem strangely out of
harmony with the memory of the wild hordes that have dashed against
these frowning walls. Within its easily traced fosse, and enclosing a
large area, there was formerly a priory of Dominicans, which has now
disappeared, but relics of it are preserved in Rhuddlan Church. From
the grassy strath within the walls the level plain reaching to Rhyl is
spread out very distinctly, and if the eye is allowed to wander to
Morfa Rhuddlan, which lies like a great alluvial marsh within the
triangle of Rhyl, Abergele, and Rhuddlan, the most desolate stretch in
Cambria, the site of that great battle in 795 is seen, when Offa, the
great king of Mercia, defeated the hordes of Caradoc, the king of
North Wales, with terrific slaughter. There probably exists no more
pathetic wail--the death-sob of a great nation--than that of 'Morfa
Rhuddlan,' which, next to the 'Men of Harlech,' is the most sung of
Welsh airs.

The road to Rhyl is gained by passing through the village and taking
the first road to the left. This takes one directly to the esplanade
opposite the pier, where the Belvoir, a comfortable hotel, stands in a
convenient position.


RHYL

Rhyl is essentially a watering-place, a watering-place pure and
simple, and it does not pretend to be anything else. Its bathing
facilities are magnificent, its sands are excellent for a gallop, and
the _beau idéal_ of parents with families, who fear that their
offspring may meet disaster unless a smooth sweep of sand is
available. It is healthy, bracing, peaceful, an excellent
'brain-emptier'--and that means much to the jaded man. He may be
exasperated by the pier entrance, which can only be termed doubly
debased Scottish architecture, but architecture by the sea is seldom
free from glaring faults. As a jumping-off ground for the Vale of the
Clwyd, and for the sea-gate of Wales at Abergele, it is convenient
both by road and rail.




LOOP No. 1--THIRD PORTION

RHYL TO CORWEN, LLANGOLLEN, WREXHAM, AND SHREWSBURY, 86½ MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                Miles.
     =Rhyl= to Denbigh             15
     =Denbigh= to Ruthin            7¾
     =Ruthin= to Corwen            12½
     =Corwen= to Llangollen        10
     =Llangollen= to Wrexham       12¼
     =Wrexham= to Ellesmere        16½
     =Ellesmere= to Shrewsbury     12½


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

=Rhyl to Trefnant.=--A good road.

=Trefnant.=--Ascent 1 in 14, then good to Denbigh.

=Denbigh to Ruthin.=--Undulating; steep ascent in Ruthin, 1 in 11,
then good road until 2 miles from Corwen, when there is a descent of 1
in 13.

=Corwen to Llangollen.=--Slightly hilly; first-class surface.

=Llangollen to Wrexham.=--Llangollen to Trevor excellent; Trevor to
Ruabon bumpy, then fairly good to Wrexham.

=Wrexham to Ellesmere.=--Steep hill 1 mile from Wrexham, then
exceptionally good to Ellesmere; afterwards undulating to Shrewsbury.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Bodelwyddan Church.=--Two miles from Rhuddlan, _off the road_;
excellent example of modern architecture.

=Cefn Caves.=--Three miles from St. Asaph, or 2½ miles from Trefnant,
off the road.

=Denbigh.=--The castle; ruins of the garrison church.

=Llanrhaiadr.=--Church, with fifteenth century 'Jesse' window.

=Ruthin.=--Castle, with beautiful surroundings; church, Perpendicular,
with splendid roof.

=Corwen.=--Church, with eighth-century cross in churchyard.

=Llangollen.=--Valle Crucis Abbey; Eliseg Pillar; Dinas Bran castle;
Plas Newydd, the Bridge.

=Ruabon.=--Church; Wynnstay Park and Monument.

=Wrexham.=--Church, one of the Seven Wonders of Wales, Perpendicular
architecture.

=Ellesmere.=--Church, with hatchet-work screen; old timbered houses;
picturesque lakes.


  [Map: LOOP 1 (THIRD PORTION). DENBIGH TO SHREWSBURY.
   For the route from Rhyl to Denbigh see previous map.]

For the first part of this section of the route the road is retraced
through Rhuddlan, and here, if the traveller be interested in a grand
example of modern ecclesiastical architecture, Bodelwyddan Church may
be visited. It lies two miles from Rhuddlan, to the right of the road;
was erected by Lady Willoughby de Broke; cost £60,000; and is called
the 'Marble Church,' from the whiteness of the local limestone of
which it is built. The spire and exterior are extremely pleasing,
while the richness of the interior, with its marbles, wood-carving,
stained glass, and excess of structural adornments, make it well
worth a visit. A good road leads back to the trunk route.


THE CEFN CAVES,

reached by a side-road about two and a half miles from Trefnant. These
lie in the grounds of Cefn Hall, and are _open on Tuesday and Friday
afternoons_. They are deep cavities in the limestone rock, at one time
inhabited by primeval man, whose bones and many interesting relics of
his existence have been found by careful excavation of the floors. A
very fine view of the Vale of the Clwyd, which has been rather
overpraised, is obtained at this spot.

  [Illustration: SHREWSBURY HOUSE, CHESTER.
   One of the many picturesque frontages for which the town is famous.]


  [Map: DENBIGH TO SHREWSBURY.]

DENBIGH

In Denbigh a long, broad street leads up to the centre of the town,
and here the chief attraction, the castle, may be visited. Passing up
through a Norman gateway, which once formed part of the boundary of
the ancient town, and was called Burgess's Tower, the ruins of the
long-abandoned parish church, or garrison church of St. Hilary, are
seen on the spacious castle green. The old parish church of the town
is at ~Whitchurch~, on the road to Ruthin. The stately ruins of the
great Norman fortress, which kept watch and ward over this portion of
the Vale of the Clwyd for so many centuries, crowns the summit of this
conical hill, and is perched nearly 500 feet above sea-level. Long
before the Norman invasion this vantage-point had been seized upon for
a stronghold, but the great epoch for Denbigh happened when Edward I.
sat down in Rhuddlan and gathered into his conquering hands the fair
lands of Wales, consolidating his power by building a castle in each.
Denbigh and Ruthin, ruled by the Laceys and the Greys respectively,
formed the nuclei of two counties. Here Henry Percy, in the wars with
Glendower, tried to stem the tide of insurrection; and later, in
the Wars of the Roses, it was a centre of that desolation and
destruction which overwhelmed the valley under Jasper Tudor and the
Earl of Pembroke, and reduced it to a land of smouldering embers. But
one of the most stirring episodes in the history of the castle was the
grand defence made by Colonel William Salusbury, the stout old
Royalist, who, in the summer of 1646, valiantly held the walls against
the Parliamentarians. From April until November it was assaulted in
vain, for Salusbury had sworn that he would not surrender it except at
the bidding of his King. This was eventually obtained, and the
garrison marched out with, if possible, more than the honours of war.
Soon afterwards the castle was completely dismantled, and now chiefly
serves as a place of assembly for the townspeople, a recreation-ground,
and a coign of vantage, under favourable circumstances, for a splendid
view over the Vale.

The road to Ruthin leads out of the busy market-place, and a mile
beyond the town one reaches the fine old church of ~Whitchurch~, now
only used for burial services. It belongs to the Perpendicular period,
and in it parts of the rood-screen may be seen, converted into a
reredos, and a screen at the west end of the north aisle. An
interesting brass to Richard Myddelton, who died 1575, is preserved
here; he was the Governor of Denbigh Castle, and is represented with
his wife and a small family of sixteen. The Myddeltons, like the
Salusburys, have left indelible traces upon this part of Wales, and of
the sons represented on the brass, one became a Lord Mayor of London,
and another, the sixth, is perhaps the best known to Englishmen, as he
was the celebrated Sir Hugh Myddelton who brought the New River to the
metropolis. The ancestral home of this family, Chirk Castle, will be
visited _en route_.

After another one and a half miles, ~Llanrhaiadr Church~ is seen, whose
interior is interesting on account of the 'Jesse' window, of fine
fifteenth-century glass, purchased with the offerings of pilgrims to
the holy well in the wooded glen above the church. It is in a
remarkably good state of preservation, with the colours rich and
brilliant. Outside the east window are the graves of five soldiers who
fell in the famous siege of Denbigh; under one lies Captain Wynne, of
the great house of Gwydir, near Llanrwst. He died from wounds in the
castle, and by mutual arrangement the cortège was permitted to pass
through the lines of the beleaguers, the Parliamentarians firing the
last salute over the grave of the hero.

Between Llanrhaiadr and Ruthin the highest points of the Clwydian
Range come prominently into view, the huge ruin on Moel Fammau, to
which reference has been made in connection with Mold, being plainly
visible.


RUTHIN (_RED CASTLE_)

The road leads into the central square of the town, from the south
side of which issues Castle Street. The modern Ruthin Castle is
occupied by Colonel W. Cornwallis West, Lord-Lieutenant of
Denbighshire, and the ruins stand in the Park. (_Permission to enter
may be obtained at the lodge._) The remains consist of a dungeon, a
'Beheading Tower,' an armoury, and some curious passages. A
whipping-post is also preserved. The ruins, deep red in hue, and
mantled by the rich green of the clinging foliage, with a setting
beyond of the upper part of the Vale of the Clwyd, form a picture rich
in colour. Reginald de Grey owned the castle shortly after its
erection in 1280, and it remained in the possession of his family
until about 1480. Owen Glendower attempted its capture in 1400, but
the Parliamentarians were more successful, for it fell in 1646, after
a siege of three months, from which time it has been a ruin. Sir
Thomas Myddelton of Chirk became owner, and the present possessor has
inherited it from him in the female line. The castle was partially
rebuilt in 1826, and brought to its present condition in 1852.

The Church of St. Peter is an imposing edifice, chiefly Perpendicular,
and contains a finely decorated roof of Henry VII.'s period,
beautifully carved in black oak and divided into 500 small panels. The
old building adjacent and the church are the remains of a Priory of
White Friars, and form a very picturesque addition; near them are the
former buildings of the Grammar School, founded in 1574. The
foundation is now accommodated in better surroundings.

The natural environs of Ruthin are of great beauty, and this part of
the Clwyd Valley is a favourite place of residence. Upon Moel Feulli
are the remains of a fortified British camp, enlarged by the Romans,
and from it and Moel Fammau magnificent views may be obtained.

Leaving Ruthin, the upper part of the Vale of the Clwyd is traversed,
and the watershed between the latter river and the Dee crossed at a
height of 600 feet. After passing through the narrow Vale of
Nantclwyd, with its towering limestone rocks, the small church of
~Derwen~, lying off the road to the right of Derwen Station, is seen. It
contains a handsome fifteenth-century screen and rood-loft, with a
time-honoured thirteenth-century cross in the churchyard.


CORWEN

is a centre for the railway system of Wales, but possesses no special
attractions, unless the mark of Owen Glendower's dagger upon the
lintel of the south door of the church, inflicted, so it is said, when
in a pet, be deemed one, though probably the tradition had its origin
in the dagger carved on the shaft of an eighth-century cross in the
same churchyard. The summit of the rock behind the town, whereon
stands a cairn, was the point whence Glendower reviewed his troops
previous to the Battle of Shrewsbury. The short climb is rewarded by a
pleasing view.


LLANGOLLEN

is reached by a part of the Telford-Holyhead road, which is generally
in magnificent condition. Pretty views of the Dee, the Berwyn
Mountains on the right, the Llantysilio Mountains on the left, and the
Eglwyseg rocks in front, are obtained, and the most beautiful part of
the hill country of Wales, as contrasted with the mountain scenery, is
presented to the eye. The loveliest views are those lying round the
town, rivalling in beauty, and perhaps surpassing, any found elsewhere
in Britain. ~The Bridge~ is one of the "Wonders of Wales," dating from
1345, and ~Plas Newydd~, lying about half a mile from the bridge, the
residence of the famed ladies of Llangollen, should on no account be
missed. The romance of their lives is too lengthy for inclusion here,
but may be readily learnt on the spot. The house is an aggregation of
carved oak within and without. No one should visit Llangollen without
ascending ~Castell Dinas Brân~, which towers to a height of 1,000 feet
above the village. The origin of the quaint ruins upon the summit is
lost in antiquity, but is attributed to one of the early Princes of
Powis. The tide of war has raged scores of times round the hoary
fragments upon the crest, which look like the eyrie of a robber baron
or the fantastic imaginings of a Doré. When the castle emerges into
the light of history we find that Griffith, the son of Madoc, occupied
it in the thirteenth century, and that about a hundred years
afterwards it fell into ruin.


  [Map: VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY: GROUND PLAN.]

VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY

(_admission 6d._) lies two miles by road from Llangollen. Founded by
the above-named Griffith in A.D. 1200, it is necessarily in the Early
English style, and dog-tooth ornamentation may be discovered in the
west end. The beautiful ruin appeals to artist and antiquary alike,
and is considered the most picturesque in Wales. A little way off to
the north is ~Eliseg's Pillar~, a most astonishing early monument put up
by Concenn ap Cadell ap Brochmail to the memory of his great-grandfather,
Eliseg, who lived as far back as the beginning of the seventh century.
It is no longer possible to read the Latin inscription giving these
facts, and the remarkable monument itself has suffered much
mutilation. Llangollen is a town in which a week can be spent with
profit and pleasure, so numerous are the places of interest in the
immediate neighbourhood. The fine escarpment of the limestone rocks,
the Eglwyseg, lying above the village, are conspicuous on the left for
some distance on leaving for Ruabon through the Vale of Llangollen,
where the famed Wynnstay Park is situated, the residence of Sir H.
Watkin Williams-Wynn, Bart. The house is not on view, but admission to
the park is freely given by application at the lodge gates, close to
the town. The associations of the park are, however, the chief
point in connection with it, for the Wynns go back into remote
antiquity, and the history of North Wales and the members of this
family are inseparable. The pillar standing above the swiftly rushing
Dee is a cenotaph perpetuating the names of those who fell in the
Irish rebellion of '98, when a Wynn took his company of yeomanry over
the water to help in the suppression.

  [Illustration: THE SWALLOW FALLS, BETTWS-Y-COED.
   The finest waterfall in Wales.]


WREXHAM

From Ruabon to Wrexham tram-lines run by the side of the road, but
they do not cause much inconvenience, and the road is good. The chief
object for visiting the town is to view the church, which is one of
the finest, if not _the_ finest, in the Principality, and enumerated
among the "Seven Wonders of Wales." It was erected in 1472 to replace
a former structure destroyed by fire. It is a splendid example of
Perpendicular architecture, the tower of six stages and 135 feet in
height being probably unsurpassed, and the rich peal of ten bells it
contains are celebrated far and wide--they were made in 1726. The
church contains monuments to the Myddelton and other families, and in
the churchyard the Elihu Yale tomb is of exceptional interest to
Americans.


ELLESMERE

At Wrexham one turns towards the south to Shrewsbury, and Ellesmere is
the first town calling for comment. There are many old carved timber
houses to be seen, a beautiful contrast to the modern box-of-bricks
erections which now so frequently serve for dwellings. No trace of the
castle now remains; its site is occupied by a bowling-green, whence a
view into nine counties is obtained. The church is chiefly of
Perpendicular architecture, and is worth visiting. The chancel screen
is of hatchet-work, and over the door may be seen the groove in which
the rood formerly stood. The Oteley Chapel has a quaint figure,
_temp._ Edward IV., on the north-west pier, and also an altar-tomb
with recumbent figures. The mere from which the town gained its name
lies close at hand; four other meres are in the vicinity, and these,
with other pleasant concomitants, help to make very pretty and
charming scenery for some distance on the road to Shrewsbury. Shortly
after leaving the town the Ellesmere Canal--one of Telford's great
works--is crossed.




SECTION IV (TRUNK ROUTE)

SHREWSBURY TO LLANDUDNO, 81½ MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                          Miles.
     =Shrewsbury= to Oswestry                17
     =Oswestry= to Chirk                      5¾
     =Chirk= to Llangollen                    6¾
     =Llangollen= to Corwen                  10
     =Corwen= to Cerrig-y-Druidon             9¾
     =Cerrig-y-Druidon= to Pentre Voelas      5½
     =Pentre Voelas= to Bettws-y-Coed         6¾
     =Bettws-y-Coed= to Llanrwst              4½
     =Llanrwst= to Tal-y-Cafn                 6¾
     =Tal-y-Cafn= to Glan Conway              3¾
     =Glan Conway= to Llandudno               5


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

=The Holyhead Road=.--Splendid surface; perfect condition generally.

Dangerous hill in =Shrewsbury=.

A fairly stiff ascent at =Chirk=, 1 in 18.

Road ascends from =Corwen to Cerrig-y-Druidon=.

Last 9 miles into =Bettws-y-Coed= downhill.

=Bettws-y-Coed to Tal-y-Cafn.=--Level, then a hill, up and down, 1 in
12.

=Near Llandudno Junction.=--Steep ascent, 1 in 10.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Shrewsbury.=--Castle; free library and museum; market-house;
churches; public gardens; town walls.

=Montford Bridge.=--Pretty road.

=Oswestry.=--Castle mound; church, with a fine tower.

=Chirk.=--Castle of great interest; viaduct; aqueduct.

=Llangollen.=--Valle Crucis Abbey; Eliseg's Pillar; bridge. The really
fine scenery lies beyond Llangollen.

=Corwen.=--Church, with eighth-century cross in churchyard.

=Conway Falls.=--Pandy Mill and Falls, Swallow Falls, all about 2
miles short of Bettws-y-Coed, upon the left, where the Conway Falls
Inn will be seen.

=Bettws-y-Coed.=--Waterloo Bridge (Dolwyddelan Castle).

=Llanrwst.=--Bridge; Gwydir Castle and Chapel.

=Conway.=--Castle; bridge; walls of the town; church.

=Llandudno.=--Watering-place; Great Orme's Head; St. Tudno's Church.


  [Map: (TRUNK) No. 4. SHREWSBURY TO CORWEN.]

~Shrewsbury.~--To pass through Shropshire without seeing Shrewsbury
would be tantamount to journeying through Italy without visiting Rome.
Its physical features are strikingly picturesque, and it has almost as
many antiquities as Chester. Fortunately, too, the objects of interest
are grouped together.

[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 3--SHREWSBURY.]

The town lies in a loop of the Severn, with the castle protecting the
opening. It is of red sandstone, and dates in part from the time of
Edward I. The grounds are open, but the building is private. The free
library and museum, opposite the castle, occupy the old buildings of
Shrewsbury School, founded in the reign of Edward VI. The museum
contains many 'finds' from _Uriconium_. The school now occupies
magnificent buildings south of the town. Passing up Castle Street, the
old Council House gateway is upon the left, and soon after a turn to
the left at the post office brings one to ~St. Mary's Church~, a noble
building, of which the base of the tower and the nave are Norman, the
transept Early English, and the aisles Perpendicular, and other
portions late Perpendicular. The tower, with its spire 222 feet high,
is the third loftiest in the kingdom. The general appearance of the
interior is very beautiful, and the Jesse window of fourteenth-century
glass should be especially noticed; it was originally in the Grey
Friars' monastery. The glass as a whole excels that of any other
English parish church; the St. Bernard window, for example, on the
north side of the altar, attributed to Albert Dürer, came from a
church at Cologne. ~St. Alkmund's Church~ can be seen from St. Mary's,
and passing that, and also St. Julian's Church, the old Wyle Cop may
be reached. Among the ancient timbered houses there is one in which
Henry VII. stayed prior to Bosworth in 1485. Passing over the English
Bridge, the ~Abbey Church~ is reached, with its imposing west front and
great Perpendicular window, and the tower, the base of which is
Norman, rising from the west end of the nave. Internally the latter
possesses three massive Norman bays, and two of the Early English
period, a fine arch in the latter style dividing it from the tower.
The chancel and clerestory have been rebuilt recently in good taste.
There are some interesting monumental effigies; one in the south
aisle is supposed to represent the founder, Roger, Earl of Shrewsbury,
died 1094. In this church, then the Chapel of the Monastery of the
Holy Cross, Richard II. held the 'great Parliament' in 1377.

Returning to the town, the road by Beeches Lane will lead by way of
the old walls to Murivance Tower, the only one remaining of the twenty
which once guarded the town. A short distance farther on, the
'Quarry,' with its beautiful avenues of lime-trees by the river, is
reached, one of the spots of which Shrewsbury is justly proud.

Having safely negotiated the dangerous hill in Shrewsbury, the road
to Oswestry is easily found, and, as nothing of supreme importance is
encountered before that town appears, the beauties of the Holyhead
Road may be appreciated.


OSWESTRY

The Church possesses a remarkably fine tower, which presents a
venerable appearance by reason of the growth of vegetation upon it. A
portion was pulled down during the Civil War, and rebuilt some time
after the Restoration. The interior should be visited, although there
are no special features upon which to dilate. About a mile to the
north of the town lies Old Oswestry, a very fine and well-preserved
earthwork, consisting of three concentric circles of defences. A
portion of Wat's Dyke lies adjacent. This was the first ditch made by
Offa, King of Mercia, in the eighth century to prevent Welsh
incursions; the second, called Offa's Dyke, was dug a few miles nearer
the Welsh border, and generally parallel to the first.

A stiff rise in the road announces that ~Chirk~ is at hand, and the
celebrated castle is the first point of interest.


CHIRK CASTLE,

anciently, Castel-y-Waen, is the only example of the thirty great
fortalices in Shropshire erected to control the Welsh border which
remains in complete repair and is occupied at the present time. It is
indelibly associated with the Myddeltons, an ancient Denbigh family
who have been identified with every popular movement in that part of
the country for centuries past. The present owner is Mr. Richard
Myddelton.

     (_The Castle is open Mondays and Tuesdays 2 to 5 p.m., 1s.
     each person; other days special orders, Estate Office,
     Chirk, 5s. for three persons._)

The builder of the existing fortress was Roger Mortimer, Lord of
Chirk, who in 1310 commenced work upon the site of Castell Crogen,
which dated from 1011. In 1595 it came into the possession of Sir
Thomas Myddelton, subsequently Lord Mayor of London. Sir Hugh
Myddelton, of New River fame, was his brother. The Royalists seized
the castle in the absence of the second Sir Thomas Myddelton, a
Parliamentarian, who had the pleasant experience of battering his own
property in the endeavour to retake it. Becoming disgusted with
Parliamentarian excesses, he became Royalist again, and was besieged.
So much damage was done by the artillery of Cromwell that £30,000 were
spent subsequently on repairs.

It is a quadrangular structure, with embattled walls, four towers of
great strength at the angles, and another defending the gateway. A
court of considerable area occupies the centre. Some very interesting
pictures form part of the treasures of the house, and among them is
the exquisite cabinet given to Sir Thomas by Charles II. The exterior
aspect is extremely pleasing, with ivy-covered walls and red-grey
stonework forming a background to the old-world gardens. Traces of
Offa's Dyke occur near the farmhouse at the foot of the castle. The
beautiful Ceriog Valley is an attractive feature of this
neighbourhood.

The road to Llangollen from Chirk commands a fine view of the vale,
and a sight of one of the most striking features of the Dee Valley,
the great aqueduct conveying the canal across it at a height of 120
feet above the river. An iron trough in the stonework contains the
water. There are nineteen arches, and the length is over 1,000 feet.
It is one of Telford's masterpieces.

     (_For a description of the route from Llangollen to Corwen,
     see pp. 69-71._)


  [Map: (TRUNK) No. 4. CORWEN TO LLANDUDNO.]

Leaving Corwen, the river is passed by a bridge, and a glimpse
afforded up the Vale of Edeyrnion to the left, at the end of which
lies Bala Lake and the source of the Dee. There are many glimpses of
charming scenery and nestling homesteads to be seen between Corwen and
Cerrig-y-Druidon, although the latter lies upon a somewhat bare
tableland perched nearly 1,000 feet above sea-level. The British camp
of Pen-y-Gaer lies to the right of it. Pentre Voelas is situated at
the beginning of the long descent into Bettws, and this part of the
road commands as beautiful scenery as one could wish to see. A little
more than four miles beyond Pentre Voelas is a turning on the left to
Penmachno, and a few yards farther on the Conway Falls are seen at the
bottom of a deep ravine. The celebrated Fairy Glen may be reached by
means of a broad green path, which leaves the main road at the same
place as that leading to the Conway Falls. The wicket-gate, beyond
which the glen is reached, is nearly three-quarters of a mile down
this track. The beauty of the glen is so conspicuously appealing that
it has won for itself an almost world-wide renown. The road from this
point descends rapidly, crosses the Waterloo Bridge, and enters
Bettws-y-Coed.


BETTWS Y COED.

The charm of this delightful locality is felt by everyone who comes
within its influence. From the village itself not a mountain is
visible, but all around are beautiful glades and the profuse richness
of vegetation flourishing in subtle, harmonious accord with rocks and
dashing waters. The Miner's Bridge lies about a mile along the Capel
Curig Road, with the Swallow Falls a mile farther. To Capel Garmon a
footpath ascends, and also a zigzag road. It affords a magnificent
panoramic view of the chief heights of the Snowdonian Range, with the
exception of Snowdon itself, which is hidden by the grand mass of
Moel Siabod. An interesting cromlech lies near Capel Garmon.

Resuming the journey, the road to Llanrwst passes over the Waterloo
Bridge and turns sharply to the left. Llyn-y-Parc is seen across the
Conway, lying at the base of spurs projecting from the mountains
beyond, and Gwydir Castle appears at the farther end of it.


LLANRWST

This ancient market town contains a church dating from the fifteenth
century, when it replaced a much older one. It contains several
interesting monuments and an elaborate screen. The beautiful Gwydir
Chapel was designed by Inigo Jones; it dates from 1633, and contains
five brasses of members of the Wynne family. The large stone coffin of
Llewellyn the Great, son-in-law of King John, is preserved here,
having been removed from Conway Abbey. The effigy in armour represents
Howel Coetmore, who led a hundred Denbighshire men at Poitiers.

~Gwydir Castle~ was built in 1555, and partly rebuilt in 1816. In the
absence of the family (Lord Carrington is the owner) it is possible
that the interesting interior may be seen. The park contains much
natural beauty, one conspicuous feature being the lofty Falcon Rock
behind the house. Llanrwst Bridge, built by Inigo Jones in 1636, is
said to tremble if sudden pressure be placed on one of the parapets.

Two miles out of Llanrwst the village of ~Trefriew~ is seen across the
river, a summer resort and inland watering-place. Presently the site
of Maenan Abbey, which disappeared at the Reformation, is passed,
before reaching Maenan House. The mountains lying between the Conway
Valley and Nant Ffrancon now present a fine spectacle. Shortly after
Tal-y-Cafn a dangerous hill is encountered, and from its summit the
Roman station of _Canovium_, situated near Caerhun on the
Carnarvonshire side, may be discerned. As the fishing at this part of
the estuary is noted, some coracles may perhaps be seen. The road
between Glan Conway and Llandudno reveals grand views of Conway
Castle and Mountain, and all the varied scenery which makes the
estuary so famous.


LLANDUDNO

The 'Biarritz of Britain' is not an inappropriate name for this
favoured town, which possesses every advantage of splendid climate,
beautiful scenery, and perfect bathing.

Great Orme's Head is generally the object of the first excursion. In
the early morning it looks very imposing, with the exquisite effect of
moving mist lying upon the placid waters of the bay at its base, and
the summit of the great limestone mass reddened by the hues of the
rising sun. It may be seen from the carriage-road which circles it,
and affords splendid views of mountain and sea, probably unsurpassed
in the kingdom; but the best way is to ascend to the summit by a
well-marked road north of the town leading from Church Street, and to
visit St. Tudno's Church, with its quaint entrance, 4½ feet in height,
of rugged stones, and its general aspect of antiquity. The church is
seen from Telegraph Point, which dominates the peninsula. A cromlech
lies to the left of the road leading to it, and the remains of a stone
circle are above the church. There is plenty of rough scrambling to be
obtained.

The carriage-drive is best entered near the pier (_motors one shilling
toll; pedestrians one penny_). The way rises and falls like the
Corniche Road; red rocks alternate with white or grey limestone; at
times the track is at a giddy height, and presently near the surface
of the water. The view up the Menai Straits, with the coasts of
Anglesey and Carnarvon nearing each other at the bridges, is very
fine, but when the farthest point of the headland is reached, that
which leads back to the town is no less beautiful, affording as it
does one of the finest prospects of the noble outline of the
Carnarvonshire Mountains.

The visitor should not fail to visit the Little Orme, where the sheer
cliffs and grassy summit often offer a seclusion much appreciated
after the boisterous exuberances of an August crowd. There are many
coigns of vantage around Llandudno from which the appreciative
traveller can gaze over mountain, sea, and strath, and also a number
of interesting edifices that may be visited if sufficient time is
allowed.

Unlike Aberystwyth, there is a considerable choice of hotels at
Llandudno. The Queen's is recommended for its fine position on the
front and for its general excellence.

  [Illustration: CONWAY FROM BENARTH.
   On the left is the famous Edwardian castle and leading to it is
   Telford's tubular bridge. Great Orme's Head appears in the distance.]




SECTION V

(TRUNK ROUTE)

LLANDUDNO TO BANGOR, 18¾ MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                      Miles.
     =Llandudno= to Conway                3¾
     =Conway= to Penmaenmawr              4½
     =Penmaenmawr= to Llanfairfechan      2¾
     =Llanfairfechan= to Bangor           7¾


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

At =Penmaenmawr= a gradient of 1 in 14.

Before reaching =Llanfairfechan= 1 in 12. Surface good.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Conway.=--The suspension bridge by Telford; castle; church; the
medieval town walls and bastions; Plas Mawr, a sixteenth-century
house.

=Penmaenmawr.=--Fine cliff scenery; large British fort above quarries.

=Llanfairfechan.=--A typical Welsh watering-place.

=Aber.=--Falls.

=Bangor.=--Model village of Llandegai; Penrhyn Castle; cathedral;
University buildings.


  [Map: (TRUNK) No. 5. LLANDUDNO TO BANGOR.]

  [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 5--CONWAY.]

The road into Conway leads over the suspension bridge built by
Telford, the harmony of the towers with the adjacent castle being a
subject of general congratulation. The entrance to ~the Castle~
(_admission 3d._) is close to the end of the bridge. The structure
possesses the characteristics of Edwardian castles, with more
ornamentation than usual, and was undoubtedly, when perfect, one of
the most magnificent fortresses in the kingdom. It commands, as usual,
one of the roads through the passes leading from Wales--that from the
Snowdon district and Anglesey. The chief points of interest are the
Queen's Tower, with its oratory, the Great Hall, the King's Tower, and
the Broken Tower. It is a matter for surprise that so much remains of
interest in the castle to the present day, which, like nearly all the
castles in Wales, was dismantled by the Parliamentarians. The soft
grey colour of the stone, and the warm, rich greens and browns of the
foliage which creeps over them, is exceptionally pleasing; the
delightful views of the surrounding country, and the wonderful
position occupied by the massive walls, all conduce to render Conway
Castle a conspicuous landmark in the recollection of the traveller.

In passing down Castle Street, a late Perpendicular carved stone on
the front of a house on the south side is of interest, and so also is
a quaint building, now a temperance hall, dating from the year 1400.

One of the entrances ~to the Church~ lies in this street. The building
is of the Decorated period, and is of great interest, as it contains a
Perpendicular rood-loft, richly carved, with priests' entrance in
perfect preservation, and a fine screen; a lace humeral and corporal
400 years old, preserved behind glass in the vestry; and a curious
post-Reformation arched tomb on the south side of the chancel.

~The Walls~ of Conway are unique, and form the best example in Europe of
thirteenth-century scientific fortification. The Saracenic influence
engendered by the Crusades is strongly exemplified in their
construction; they are one mile in circuit, about 12 feet thick, with
four gates and many semicircular towers. The feature of piercing the
merlons of the battlements for the discharge of arrows is exemplified
here, as in the castle. This undulating, encircling wall, clothed with
creepers in parts, and presenting picturesque features at every turn,
is a dream of medievalism not often encountered. Upon the quay stands
the reputed smallest house in Great Britain, squeezed into a corner of
the fortifications; one can stand in the road and shake hands with a
person in the upper story.

~Plas Mawr~, or Queen Elizabeth's Palace (_admission 6d._), dates from
1585, and has its chief frontage in Crown Lane. It is a perfectly
preserved example of the architecture of that period, and abounds in
archæological objects of interest. The 365 windows and 52 doors are
not merely a coincidence.

       *       *       *       *       *

Leaving Conway, the ~Sychnant Pass~ may be traversed if desired; it is a
steep road leading over the mountains to Penmaenmawr, revealing fine
views over the whole district.

The main road leads round the coast via Penmaenbach Point, near Conway
Mountain (upon which are traces of an ancient fort). At ~Penmaenmawr~
one finds a cluster of modern villas, of every size and design,
nestling at the foot of an enormous mass of stone towering up to a
height of 1,550 feet--the well-known Penmaenmawr Mountain. Upon the
summit, which affords a magnificent view for many miles round, are the
ruins of one of the strongest of the early British forts, said to
have accommodated 20,000 men. It is a matter for infinite regret that
this important link with primitive Wales should be doomed to disappear
through the steady advance of the huge quarries now eating into the
hill. These quarries, and the steep tramway-lines up to them, also
very seriously detract from the beauty of the spot. After leaving the
village, the great round hump upon the summit of the mountain can be
plainly seen from the road.

At ~Llanfairfechan~, a small seaside resort, one reaches a typical Welsh
resort--bathing-machines and sands combined with incipient
mountain-climbing.

~The Falls at Aber~ are two miles from the road, and can only be reached
by footpath. The effect of the falls varies greatly with the season;
but the climb up the valley towards Foel Fras is very fine. The road
now passes inland somewhat, and the views of the Straits, of
Beaumaris, and of Puffin Island, hitherto enjoyed, become obscured by
trees. Near Bangor one of the entrances to the park surrounding
Penrhyn Castle is seen upon the right, and here is the Model Village
of Llandegai, interesting to those engaged in the social problems of
the day. Workmen on the Penrhyn estate are housed in pretty cottages
grouped in twos or threes, and placed in gardens. Avenues of trees
shade the village roads, in the middle of which is Llandegai Church
(_the key generally hangs up in the porch_). A tomb with two recumbent
effigies of interest lies within: it came from Llanfaes Priory, but
whom it represents is not known; the armour of the knight and the
costume of the lady point to _c._ 1470. The church is charmingly clean
and well kept. In the village no public-house is allowed, a state of
things which has been productive of the very best results.

The road runs some distance by the park, and at times affords a view
of ~Penrhyn Castle~, the entrance to which is seen upon taking a sharp
turn to the right, when Penrhyn Port is perceived; the bridge leads up
to the gateway. (_Open Tuesday and Thursday afternoons, 10 to 5; 2s.
for one person; 1s. extra for each additional one. Half the proceeds
goes to local hospitals._) The castle is an impressive modern
reproduction of a Norman fortress; the keep reminds one of Rochester,
and is really fine. The interior is worth a visit, if only to see how
Lord Penrhyn has adapted modern luxury to the rough Norman
architecture.


BANGOR

Upon leaving the castle, University College is passed upon the right,
and a drive through the street leads to an open triangular space,
where the cathedral comes into sight. Although the cathedral site has
a rich history, having been occupied by the first church about 525,
yet the present edifice is singularly uninteresting and unimpressive.
This is undoubtedly due to the fact that the Saxon church was
destroyed in 1071, the Norman successor in 1211, and the Early English
building in 1407, when it was reduced to ruins, and remained so for
nearly a century. Consequently, the main part of the present edifice
only dates from Henry VII.'s reign, and the tower from 1532. There is
nothing of interest in the cathedral and but little outside. The
clock, however, upon the occasion of the writer's recent visit, was
worth noting, as the hands, the striking parts, and Greenwich time,
were all at variance. Thus, when the hands pointed to 9.54, Greenwich
time was 9.49, and the clock struck 10.

  [Illustration: CONWAY VALLEY.
   A peep of the River Conway between Bettws-y-Coed and Conway.]

From the road leading downwards by the cathedral there is a view of
the new University buildings, placed upon a commanding site
overlooking the town. Lower Bangor lies in an amphitheatre of
hills, upon which Upper Bangor is being built, the latter embracing
the fashionable part of the town, and also the goal of pleasure-seekers,
who patronize the sands and the pier.




LOOP No. 2

BANGOR TO BETTWS-Y-COED, 20¼ MILES

(The scenery of these twenty miles is so remarkably impressive that
this short run is strongly recommended. The return journey can be made
via Conway (as described in Section V.), a distance of thirty miles,
or a return by the same road need not be shirked, for the scenery
unfolds fresh glories when travelling in the opposite direction.)


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                     Miles.
     =Bangor= to Bethesda                5¼
     =Bethesda= to Llyn Ogwen            4½
     =Llyn Ogwen= to Capel Curig         5
     =Capel Curig= to Bettws-y-Coed      5½


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

A steady rise from =Bethesda to Llyn Ogwen=, then level for 2 miles.

A long descent to =Bettws-y-Coed=, steep at times. Surface good.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Penrhyn Castle.=--Modern Norman structure (open to public).

=Llandegai Model Village.=--Church, with interesting tomb.

=Bethesda Slate Quarries.=

=Nant Ffrancon.=--Scenery wild and grand.

=Llyn Idwal and the Devil's Kitchen.=--Stern rock and lake scenery.

=Llyn Ogwen.=--A wild lake among the mountains.

=Capel Curig.=--The Cyfyng Falls; grand view of Snowdon.

=Bettws-y-Coed= (see p. 84).--A charming village in a steep leafy
valley.


  [Map: LOOP 2. BANGOR TO BETTWS-Y-COED.]

Those who wish to see Wales in all its aspects should on no account
miss the twenty-mile run from Bangor to Bettws. It has been termed the
most impressive pass in North Wales, and poetically referred to as
'Beauty sleeping in the lap of Horror.' To fully grasp the feeling of
the place a walk through it on a mild winter's day is desirable, and
on January 1 of last year one of the writers experienced that
sensation, when flying scud and wild lashing torrents of occasional
rain from whirling masses of black clouds upon the sombre peaks added
a realistic force to the wildness of the scene.

The road leading to Penrhyn Castle and Llandegai is that which should
be taken. At Bethesda a typical slate-quarrying town is reached, with
great 'tips' of refuse encircling it; the continual roar and rattle of
engines, dragging tramloads of slate, high above the roadway, is
punctuated with the occasional boom of the blastings. The quarries may
be visited if desired, when a memorable sight will be witnessed.

There is nothing in this centre of Welsh Nonconformity of antiquarian
interest, and soon a steady ascent leads from it into the Nant
Ffrancon Pass, presumably the Valley of Beavers. Upon the right lies a
range of mountains, each over 3,000 feet in height, and well known to
climbers--Elidyr Fawr, Y Garn, and Glyder Fawr, with Glyder Fach
straight in front, and the giant mass of Moel Siabod behind it. On the
left, Carnedd Llewelyn, 3,484 feet, and Carnedd Dafydd, 3,426 feet,
send down great shoulders into the pass, where the winding road, ever
ascending, climbs above the grassy valley lying between the encircling
giants. At Benglog Bridge, where the foaming Afon Ogwen leaps down the
boulders in a torrent, one is nearly 1,000 feet above sea-level. Here
the lonely Llyn Ogwen comes into view, but before passing it the short
clamber over rocks to Llyn Idwal should on no account be omitted. The
path begins behind the little inn, and winds by the side of the stream
draining from the lake which abruptly comes into view. This lonely
tarn, with its waters reflecting the black scarp of Glyder Fawr,
seldom or never lit up by the sun's rays, and often lashed into foam
by the fierce eddies sweeping down from the mountains, is the very
embodiment of awe-inspiring impressiveness. Even if the day be
beautiful there is a wild loneliness, which is accentuated by the
legend of Prince Idwal being brutally murdered here by Dunawt at the
instigation of his father, to whom the youth had been entrusted by his
parents.

The terrific black chasm seen in the rocks overshadowing the pool is
named ~Twll Du~, or ~the Black Cleft~, but popularly 'The Devil's
Kitchen.' It is 450 feet high and 100 feet deep, narrowing in places
to 6 feet wide. A foaming cataract of troubled waters pours down,
forming in its fall the hollows at the base termed 'The Devil's Pots.'
Many fatal accidents to climbers have occurred here in ascending to
Llyn Bochlwyd, lying nearly 700 feet higher, on Glyder Fach, last year
(1910) being by no means immune.

South of Lake Ogwen, ~Tryfaen~, the three-headed mountain, is remarkably
impressive. Soon after the lake is passed a descent commences to Capel
Curig, where a magnificent view of the eastern slopes of Snowdon is
obtained between Moel Siabod and Glyder Fawr. The combined waters of
the Llugwy and Nant-y-Gwryd accompany the road as it leads downwards
to Bettws-y-Coed, with the Swallow Falls and Miners' Bridge, as
previously noticed (see p. 84).




SECTION VI

(TRUNK ROUTE)

BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY, 65¾ MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                        Miles.
     =Bangor= to Carnarvon                  9
     =Carnarvon= to Llanberis               7½
     =Llanberis= to Pen-y-Gwryd             6½
     =Pen-y-Gwryd= to Beddgelert            7¾
     =Beddgelert= to Penrhyn Deudraeth      7½
     =Penrhyn Deudraeth= to Harlech         6½
     =Harlech= to Barmouth                 11
     =Barmouth= to Dolgelley               10


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

=Bangor to Carnarvon.=--Nearly level and splendid surface.

=Carnarvon to Llanberis.=--Steep hills for 4 miles, then easy
gradients and good surface.

Steady rise through =Pass of Llanberis=.

Remainder of the route splendid surface, with occasional moderate
hills.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Carnarvon.=--The Roman town of _Segontium_; magnificent
thirteenth-century castle; town walls; St. Mary's Church.

Splendid views of the =Snowdon precipices=.

=Llanberis.=--A popular resort consisting of old and new villages;
Dolbadarn Castle; waterfall; slate quarries; mountain railway.

=Pass of Llanberis.=--Cromlech, so called; impressive scenery.

=Beddgelert.=--A picturesque village; Gelert's grave; church;
prettiest part of route.

=Aberglaslyn.=--Pass and bridge; delightful scenery.

=Penrhyn.=--Ffestiniog Toy Railway; Deudraeth Castle, of modern
construction.

=Harlech.=--County town (small) of Merioneth; castle in commanding
position.

=Llanbedr.=--A village; Llyn Cwm Bychan, a wild lake; Roman steps.

=Llanddwywe.=--Church; Cors-y-Gedol cromlechs.

=Llanaber.=--Church, Early English architecture; interesting stone
relic.

=Barmouth.=--Modern watering-place; bridge; panorama walk; magnificent
views of the estuary of the Mawddach.

=Bontddu.=--Water-fall.


  [Map: (TRUNK) No. 6. BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY.]

  [Map: No. 6. BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY.]

The road from Bangor leads past the ~Menai Suspension Bridge~ over the
Straits, once a wonder of the world, but now overshadowed by the Forth
Bridge and others. It was opened in 1826. The total length of the
roadway is 1,000 feet, which is suspended over the water at a height
of 100 feet above the highest spring-tide. The view from the bridge is
most picturesque, but it is hardly worth while to take a car over.
(_Motor-car 2s. toll; foot passengers 1d. each._) The bridge has a
very distinct swing in a high wind. Farther on one sees the ~Britannia
Tubular Bridge~, opened in 1850, and carrying the railway across in two
hollow tubes of enormous strength. No one can accuse this engineering
feat of being beautiful, but it has thoroughly proved its efficiency.
The Anglesey Column forms a prominent landmark at the farther end of
the bridge; it was erected as a memorial of the Marquis of Anglesey
who distinguished himself at Waterloo. The well-known Plas Newydd, the
residence of the present peer, lies adjacent, and there also is the
village of ~Llanfair~, sometimes Llanfair Pwll Gwyngyll, and a full name
of fifty-four letters if one is still more respectful. At Port
Dinorwic vessels load up with slates from Bethesda. The view of the
Anglesey coast is fine at first, but the shores gradually deteriorate
as one reaches Carnarvon, eventually spreading out in mud flats.


  [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 6--CARNARVON.]

CARNARVON

As the great Roman town and fortress of _Segontium_, the reputed
birthplace of Constantine the Great, the site of a famous feudal
fortress, and the birthplace of the first Prince of Wales, Carnarvon
undoubtedly occupies a unique position in British history, and, as it
still possesses tangible evidences of most of its past record, the
traveller is unwise who passes by without a stay of at least a few
hours' duration, though a few days would be more appropriate.

  [Map: GROUND PLAN OF CARNARVON CASTLE.

     A. Eagle Tower.
     B. Queen's Tower.
     C. Chamberlain's Tower.
     D. Black Tower.
     E. Granary Tower.
     F. Well Tower.
     G. Banqueting Hall.]

Behind the Royal Hotel, which is passed on entering the town, is a
small rocky knob, easily climbed, called Twt Hill, a coign of vantage
for viewing the Carnarvon mountains, the Straits, Anglesey, and
Carnarvon itself. On a clear day the mountains of Wicklow can be seen,
and as a practical exponent of the ichnography of the town the hill is
of great use. The approach to the castle by a narrow road suddenly
reveals a view of ~Carnarvon Castle~, the vast dimensions of which may
probably be best gleaned by walking down to the slate wharf on the
River Seoint, laving the walls. Here the great height of the walls,
the quality of the excellent stonework, and the general effect of
impregnability, are realized. Returning to the main entrance, the
great arch known as the ~Queen's Doorway~ is passed high up in the
wall; it is the traditional spot whence the infant Edward was shown to
the Welsh chieftains by his father. The drawbridge at one time crossed
the street at this point; an inn now occupies the sight of the
barbican. Within the castle (_admission 4d._) the visitor is at once
struck with the idea that a medieval fortress in its entirety is
presented to the view; there are no crumbling ruins or ivy-clad masses
of fallen masonry, as in the majority of structures of this nature.
This is accounted for by the fact that it belongs to the Crown, and
every stone as it becomes weathered is carefully replaced. The castle
is, in fact, a most interesting study for the archæologist, as
illustrating medieval methods of defence. The Eagle Tower, the reputed
apartment where Edward II. was born, the Queen's Gateway, and other
interesting parts, are pointed out by the keeper. It should be
remembered that the castle is the finest in Europe except one; that it
was built by Edward I. in 1283, heightened by Edward II., garrisoned
by the Royalists in the Civil War under Lord Byron, and after an able
defence surrendered to the Parliamentarians, who ordered its
demolition in 1660, which was fortunately not carried out. ~The Town
Walls~ of Carnarvon are interesting objects to the visitor, as is also
St. Mary's Church, built into the walls, a tower forming the vestry
and the walls two sides of the church.

Of _Segontium_, the great Roman station, but little remains. A portion
of the wall, in bad condition, lies in a narrow lane at the top of the
hill, gained by ascending Pool Street and Tithebarn Street and passing
round to the right, at the back of the Rectory, before reaching
Llanbeblig Church. There are other and better sections to be seen by
making inquiries. In one instance, in the front-garden of a house, it
is some 20 feet in height, formed of beautifully squared stones, and
can be seen from the roadway; by the courtesy of the occupiers it is
quite possible for a nearer view to be obtained. This wall undoubtedly
extended to the river.

       *       *       *       *       *

The road to ~Llanberis~ leads from Castle Square up Pool Street for a
short distance, when Llanberis Road is entered. The route is to a
certain extent spoilt at first by intrusive chimneys and other
industrial manifestations. Llyn Padarn has also been ruined by
quarries, and probably was never celebrated for scenery. The peak of
Snowdon is seen intermittently upon the right, but the chief mountain
features are Elidyr Fawr (the other side of which has been seen from
Nant Ffrancon) and Carnedd Dafydd, 3,426 feet.

~Llanberis~ is a favourite tourists' resort for fishing and
mountain-climbing, and a headquarters for excursions to neighbouring
points.

~Dolbadarn Castle~ is of remote antiquity, and probably existed in the
sixth century, its position making it a fortress of importance. It has
probably seen as much wild work as any castle in Wales, especially
during the Glendower period, being the master-key to the Snowdon
region.

~Old Llanberis~, beyond Llyn Peris, is more picturesque than the new,
and contains a church, which is chiefly interesting on account of the
graves in the churchyard of those who have lost their lives on
Snowdon. The entrance to the famous ~Pass of Llanberis~, between Glyder
Fawr and Snowdon, is very impressive, and the narrowness of the valley
gives it a distinct character compared with Nant Ffrancon. It is
probably the finest mountain defile traversed by a carriage-road in
the Principality. A huge mass of rock, which in falling has produced a
natural cromlech, is to be seen on the left. The summit of Glyder Fawr
appears before the end of the pass is reached, but that of Snowdon is
still hidden. The highest point of the pass is 1,179 feet above
sea-level. The views obtained upon reaching Pen-y-Gwryd are a relief
after the wildness of the route traversed. Moel Siabod to the left
front, with the sugar-loaf height of Cynicht, are prominent features,
while the view down the Gwynant Valley is one of the sweetest
prospects in Wales. At the hotel occurs an abrupt turning to the
right, and a sharp descent leads to Llyn Gwynant, a picturesque lake,
from which a grand view of the rugged slopes of Snowdon is obtained.
Llyn-y-Ddinas, farther on, is scarcely less pleasing. Soon afterwards


BEDDGELERT

is entered, the most romantically situated village in Wales, standing
at the junction of three valleys, leading respectively to Carnarvon,
Portmadoc, and Capel Curig, and surrounded by a grand array of
mountain peaks. It derives its name from the story of Llewellyn's
hound, and means 'the grave of Gelert.' The rude monument said to
have been erected by the Prince in his repentance for the hasty act
may be reached in a few hundred yards from the village. Moel Habog,
2,566 feet, is an easy climb from here. The road to Penrhyn Deudraeth
leads through the romantic Pass of Aberglaslyn, and emerges upon the
far-famed bridge, where the rich colouring of the rocks, full of
exquisite contrasts with the foliage, delights the eye at every
glance. There are many parts of Switzerland that afford similar
visions of beauty and grandeur, but what Pont Aberglaslyn loses in
size it gains in the beauty of its colour. The junction of two roads
occurs here--one to Tremadoc, the other to Penrhyn. The latter drops
to an extensive and dreary plain, Traeth Mawr, across which the road
winds with many a sharp turn. The views of the distant mountains are
very effective, while straight in front the Castle of Harlech becomes
a prominent feature, with the waters of Cardigan Bay to right and
left.

  [Illustration: DISTANT VIEW OF PENMAENMAWR.
   Between Conway and Bangor.]

~Penrhyn Deudraeth~ is a mining village of no interest, except as the
starting-point of the Ffestiniog narrow-gauge railway. Here the river
draining the Vale of Ffestiniog enters a large sheet of water called
Traeth Bach, and, crossing it by a bridge, the Morfa Harlech, an
uninteresting flat, is entered, with the modern Castle of Deudraeth to
the right. Here the road runs between the Morfa and the high country
to the left, until it reaches the little town of


HARLECH

Unless the visitor should happen to be a golfer and a frequenter of
the famous St. David's Club Links, there is practically nothing of
interest in the neighbourhood except the castle, famous in history and
song, which occupies a precipitous elevation in the front of the town.
The entry is opposite the Castle Hotel. (_Admission 4d._) A fortress
of some sort existed as early as the third century, when Bronwen, or
White-Bosomed, the daughter of Bran the Blessed, lived here. About 550
a more substantial pile was raised, but this in turn was replaced by
the present castle, built by Edward I. in 1280, who, however,
incorporated much of the older building in his new fortress. In 1404
it was seized by Glendower, but retaken by the King's troops in 1408.
Margaret of Anjou took refuge in it after Northampton in 1460. Edward
IV., after a long siege, captured it in 1468, and the 'March of the
Men of Harlech' dates from that period. During the Civil War the
castle was alternately in possession of both parties. It is now Crown
property. The magnificent view from the battlements should be seen.
Across the bay, seven miles, is the sister castle of Criccieth, while
the long promontory of Carnarvon, termed Lleyn, forms a bold feature
on the north-western horizon. The two highest elevations on the
promontory are The Rivals, and Bardsey Island is the detached
fragment. To the right there is a line of mountain peaks to Moel Hebod
and the Snowdon heights. Two and a half miles to the south of Harlech
the Island of Mochras lies off the shore, joined at low tide by an
isthmus. It is chiefly visited for its beautiful shells. Near it is
the commencement of the Sarn Badrig, a curious ledge of rocks, bare at
low tide, which runs far out into the waters of the bay. A similar
formation, though of less extent, lies off Aberystwyth. To the
antiquary the country to the east of Harlech is of the greatest
interest; it teems with relics, chiefly prehistoric, such as
cromlechs, stone circles, and dolmens. The far-famed Roman Steps, the
Lake of Cwm Bychan, with its abnormally savage surroundings, the Drws
Ardudwy, all lie in this interesting hinterland, mostly far away from
the main road. Near Llanbedr, however, between the road and the river,
and just short of the village, are two long stones, and another
bearing an Ogham inscription. ~Llanddwywe Church~ is not of any
particular interest, but two cromlechs stand nearly opposite the
King's Head Inn, about eighty yards from the road. The large cromlech
known as Arthur's Quoit is at some distance, near Cors-y-Gedol, the
old seat of the Vaughans, or Vychans, of Cors-y-Gedol. The church at
~Llanaber~ is of Early English architecture, and should be visited. An
inscribed stone of much interest and with various decipherings stands
near the north-west door; it was found below low-water mark on the
beach near the church.


BARMOUTH

This rather overbuilt watering-place is situated in a romantic
position at the mouth of the Mawddach, and is remarkable for its
genial winter climate, the town being protected by the high hills
surrounding it. Apart from the visitors who crowd into the town during
the summer season, there are a great number who utilize it as a centre
for mountaineering, antiquarian, geological, and fishing excursions.
The houses are built up the face of the cliff, so that the
chimney-pots of one house are opposite the front-door of the house
behind, and it is possible to diagnose a neighbour's dinner by the
odours thus conveyed. The church is new, but some interesting
geological contortions occur near it. The view from the railway bridge
is one of the most remarkable in Wales. (_The toll is 2d., and one of
the best times for seeing the estuary and its mountainous setting is
at sunset._) High tide helps the scene enormously. A rich and sombre
purple, partly clothing the mountains, melts into exquisite gradations
of green and velvety browns. Cader Idris, upon the right, fills all
that side of the picture; the Arrans furnish the centre distance;
while the outliers of Llawr Lech and Y Garn occupy the left. A
well-known projection on the flanks of Cader is the Giant's Nose.

The Panorama Walk is a favourite stroll from Barmouth; it is commenced
at a terrace bearing the curious name of Porkington, and
direction-boards indicate the route. The path truly deserves the name
it has been given, although the labelling of scenery in this way is
exceedingly distasteful.


THE ESTUARY OF THE MAWDDACH

The road to Dolgelley lies upon the northern shore of this famous
estuary, and for beauty and impressiveness cannot easily be
overpraised. The many windings in the road accentuate its charm,
glimpses, sometimes of entrancing beauty, being frequently presented
to the traveller. Besides the scenery there are no special objects to
be indicated upon the road; just beyond Brintirion, however, a stream
descends which has passed through the gold-field of St. David's, lying
upon the slopes of the mountain above. The ruins of ~Cymmer Abbey~, near
Llanelltyd, remind one forcibly of Valle Crucis Abbey, so charming and
reposeful are the surroundings. It was founded _c._ 1200 by the
Cistercians, and dissolved at the Reformation. The adjoining farmhouse
contains parts of the refectory and abbot's lodging. The eastern
portion of the church is in the best preservation, and upon the south
are a few Early English arches and pillars. The road here turns
sharply to the right to Dolgelley, and, entering this quaintly-situated
little town, the Golden Lion Hotel is found in the market-place near the
church.




LOOP No. 3

DOLGELLEY TO CEMMAES VIA TAL-Y-LLYN, 40 MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                      Miles.
     =Dolgelley= to Penmaenpool           2½
     =Penmaenpool= to Arthog              4½
     =Arthog= to Llwyngwril               5
     =Llwyngwril= to Llanegryn            4
     =Llanegryn= to Abergynolwyn          6
     =Abergynolwyn= to Tal-y-llyn         3
     =Tal-y-llyn= to Corris               4
     =Corris= to Machynlleth              5
     =Machynlleth= to Cemmaes             6


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

Surface to =Llwyngwril= excellent.

Near =Arthog= gradient of 1 in 10.

Near =Friog= gradient of 1 in 14.

Ascent of 1 in 9 near =Abergynolwyn=, and descent of 1 in 6 into the
village.

After =Tal-y-llyn= ascent of 1 in 7, and descent to =Corris= 1 in 16.

Surface generally good to =Machynlleth=.

Then excellent road, but hilly, to =Cemmaes=.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Arthog.=--Waterfalls.

=Llwyngwril.=--A village; remains of Castell-y-Gaer.

=Llanegryn.=--Church with magnificent rood-loft; Bird Rock in
distance.

=Tal-y-llyn.=--A lake near Cader Idris.

=Corris.=--Toy railway; slate district.

=Machynlleth.=--Market town; remains of old Senate-house.


  [Map: LOOP 3. DOLGELLEY TO CEMMAES VIA TAL-Y-LLYN.]

The road from Dolgelley passes, with many windings, from the town to
the estuary at Penmaenpool, to which place excursion steamers run
during the summer from Barmouth. Although the scenery upon the south
bank of the Mawddach is not so fine as that upon the north, yet the
mountains of Ardudwy, as the hinterland of Barmouth was anciently
called, present an imposing aspect, and sometimes compose a pretty
picture when seen through the umbrageous foliage which lines the road
on both sides. If the tide be high, the view is accentuated by the
reflections in the broad expanse of water, and singularly beautiful
glimpses are at times displayed. The undulating road, flanked at times
by the universal whitewashed cottages, reaches ~Arthog~, a small village
situated at the base of a finely wooded, diversified ground, about a
mile from which are the Arthog Lakes, and at a short distance from the
hotel a waterfall, of considerable beauty after a heavy fall of
rain, but much attenuated in dry weather. At Friog the slate quarries
are apparent on the left of the road, and a steady rise begins,
leading to an excellent retrospective view of Barmouth, Harlech
Castle, and the Lleyn Peninsula to Bardsey.

  [Illustration: SNOWDON FROM TRAETH MAWR.]


LLWYNGWRIL

is a small village, with the Dyffryn River passing through it under a
bridge. Castell-y-Gaer lies upon its banks at a short distance up the
stream, consisting of small masses of broken ivy-clad masonry, of an
unknown fortress so far as history is concerned. Upon the bridge
before mentioned on Sunday evenings after church or chapel the youths
and maidens of the village congregate to sing the sweet Welsh refrains
handed down through long generations, and harmonized with a beauty of
feeling which only a music-loving nation can express. Among the men
singularly rich basses prevail; north of Barmouth, strange to say,
tenors predominate. The route turns abruptly inland beyond
Llangelynin, and the village of


LLANEGRYN,

lying off the main road, but approached by a lane, appears on the
left. It contains a church well worth visiting, inasmuch as the superb
rood-screen is among the finest in the British Isles. It is of early
Perpendicular work, and the loft above is quite perfect except for the
actual rood and the figures of saints. A good roof and an interesting
Norman font should also be noticed.


THE BIRD ROCK

may be seen from this point, an isolated crag of peculiar shape
standing up black and dour against the mountains beyond. The weird
beauty of the landscape can hardly be overpraised. The road leading
straight onwards passes almost underneath the rock, but the main route
to the right descends to the bridge over the river, draining the
Dysynni Valley, and Tal-y-llyn. Here are some sharp turns, but
presently the very narrow road is reached, leading directly to the
lake. Passing another vehicle is not an easy matter. The scenery
increases in beauty as one progresses, the little railway to the right
having scarcely the smallest deteriorating effect upon the valley. The
ruins of Castell-y-Bere, formerly one of the largest in Wales, and
once visited by Edward I., lie in the adjacent valley to the left, to
which the narrow road leads, coming into Abergynolwyn on the left.


TAL-Y-LLYN

Tal-y-llyn is a quarter of a mile in width, and a little over a mile
in length. It lies under Cader Idris, although the summit is not
visible from it; two great craters, however, carved in its rocky
flanks, form a fitting background on the left. In front lies a valley,
by ascending which the ~Cross Foxes Inn~ is reached, and subsequently
Dolgelley. Extravagant praise has been lavished upon the lake by many
travellers, but one misses some essentials to claims of exceptional
beauty. No quality of mystery appeals to the imagination; the lake
does not lie in an appalling neighbourhood of black riven rocks or in
a glen of surpassing beauty. All is open, and the whole is seen at one
vision. Anglers, however, find Tal-y-llyn an ideal spot. At the
farther end of the lake the road, after a branch track to the right by
a cottage has been passed, turns to the right up a steep ascent, from
whose summit a retrospective view of the lake is perhaps the best
obtainable. The road to Corris through Nant Gwgan is pretty, with
occasional waterfalls and stone slides from the shoulders of mountains
towering hundreds of feet above the pass. The rich browns and greens
and subtler shades of grey form charming contrasts of colour.
Unfortunately, the lower end of the pass is disfigured by many slate
quarries. Upper Corris is strongly reminiscent of Bethesda. A monument
is erected here on the left side of the road to Alfred W. Hughes,
F.R.C.S., who died in 1900 of fever during the war in South Africa. A
quarry railway, with a miniature station and a gauge of 2 feet 3
inches, runs by the side of the road. At Corris, which is a
slate-mining town pure and simple, the road trends to the right, and
the view becomes less circumscribed as the vale of Afon Dulas widens
out. When the Dovey Valley is reached a wide expanse of alluvial land
comes into view, through which the river meanders westwards towards
its estuary.


MACHYNLLETH

Machynlleth is a spacious and well-built market town and borough with
two main streets, wide and pleasant, with well-kept shops, thus
forming a marked contrast in that respect to the majority of Welsh
towns. It forms one of the centres of the woollen industry of the
county, and indulges somewhat in the tanning business as well. The
clock-tower is a prominent object; the church has no features of
interest worth recording; the Market-house dates only from 1783, and
of antiquarian curiosities there are but few. An old black-and-white
cottage at the end of Maengwyn Street, which branches off to the left
at the chief main street, has 'OWEN PUGH O VXOR 1628' for 'Owen Pugh
and wife.' The 'O,' however, is baffling as a conjunction. Opposite
are portions of the old Senate-house, the reputed building in which
Owen Glendower succeeded in persuading the nobles and commons to
acknowledge him Prince of Wales in 1402. Upon the hills surrounding
Machynlleth remains occur which appear to indicate that the town was a
Roman station, and coins have occasionally been found to confirm
this. A good road up the Valley of the Dovey leads to Cemmaes, where
the trunk route is again reached.

(_For a description of the road from Cemmaes to Dolgelley, see Section
VII._)




LOOP No. 4


CEMMAES TO ABERYSTWYTH AND LLANGURIG, 49¾ MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                           Miles.
     =Cemmaes= to Machynlleth                  5½
     =Machynlleth= to Talybont                10¾
     =Talybont= to Aberystwyth                 9¼
     =Aberystwyth= to Goginan                  7½
     =Goginan= to Ponterwyd                    4¼
     =Ponterwyd= to Dyffryn Castell Hotel      2
     =Dyffryn Castell Hotel= to Llangurig     10½


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

=Cemmaes to Aberystwyth.=--Good surface all the way, but hilly; worst
gradients before and after Talybont, 1 in 13 and 1 in 11.

First 12 miles after =Aberystwyth= splendid surface, then becomes a
little rough and bumpy to =Llangurig=.

There are some steep hills in the neighbourhood of the =Devil's
Bridge=.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Glandovey= (or =Glan Dyfi=).--Entrance for the beautiful Lyfnant
Valley; view over the estuary.

=Aberystwyth.=--A considerable town, with ruins of an Edwardian castle
and the University buildings.

=The Devil's Bridge.=--Grand scenery; the Parson's Bridge; the Punch
Bowl.


  [Map: Loop 4. CEMMAES TO ABERYSTWYTH AND LLANGURIG.]

The road down the Valley of the Dovey presents a pretty panorama, but
possesses no particular feature to arrest attention--it is merely a
pleasant drive.


GLANDOVEY

This small place stands at the entrance to the Lyfnant Valley, one of
the most distractingly beautiful little glens in the whole of Wales,
with waterfalls, torrents, and utter wildness of vegetation, and
stern, bleak splendour at the farther end, where Pistyll-y-Llyn
showers its two foaming torrents headlong into the black caldron
beneath. The first cataract met, the Glaspwll Cascade, is a fine one,
but it cannot vie with the more remote example. There is a prettily
situated small castle on the left of the road. The estuary of the
Dovey now appears, and if the tide be at the flood, presents a very
fine prospect. Aberdovey generally has a brig or two lying off the
quay. An extensive salt marsh now comes into view, between which and
the high land the road runs. ~Borth~ lies on the coast of this plain;
its hydro, links, and beautiful sands attract visitors during the
summer. At Tre-Taliesin we are reminded of the grave of Taliesin, the
'King of the Bards' during the sixth century; the pilgrimage to his
grave, which lies about a mile to the left of the road, is a favourite
one from Aberystwyth. Two miles farther on the remains of a British
camp or fort crown the summit of Moel-y-Gaer, close to the road upon
the right; they are remarkably well preserved, and in the
neighbourhood are some Druidical circles. In this district the open
country around is quite park-like in many places; at times, however,
it reminds one of parts of Devonshire. About two miles from
Aberystwyth there is a beautiful vista of Cardigan Bay and the coast
laved by its waters, with the town lying below at the termination of a
long and rather trying hill.


ABERYSTWYTH

Aberystwyth not only boasts of a high antiquity, but also of having
been the commercial centre for the Mid-Welsh counties. The trade has
now dwindled, but as a watering-place it easily holds its own as one
of the most frequented in Wales. The chief points of interest are:

~The Castle~, the ruins of which occupy a position of prominence in the
centre of the town, was built by Gilbert de Strongbow in the reign of
Henry I. It was destroyed by Owen Gwynedd, and rebuilt by Edward I.;
in the Civil War it was dismantled by the Parliamentarians. The
grounds are now laid out in pleasant walks, affording fine views of
the coast.

~The University Buildings~ adjoin the castle, and may be termed one of
the finest examples of recent architecture in the Principality. The
general effect of the modern buildings in the town is depressing,
probably owing to the use of the dark Silurian stone, covered with the
universal slate roof.

The town is happy in having an immediate neighbourhood of great
interest to the antiquary and to the ordinary tourist, inasmuch as
many pleasant excursions may be indulged in, such, for example, as the
visits to Strata Florida Abbey, the Monk's Cave, Lyfnant Valley, and
the Devil's Bridge.

The route to Llangurig commences in Aberystwyth, in Northgate Street,
and runs through Llanbadarn. At Pont Erwydd a road leads south to the
Devil's Bridge, fifteen miles, a feature which should not on any
account be missed.

An alternative route, eleven and three-quarter miles to the bridge, is
a part of the direct road to Rhayader.

(_a_) ~First Route, the Pont Erwydd.~--Road level for first six miles,
then rise to 1,027 feet; hilly.

~Llanbadarn.~--Church much restored.

~Bangor~ to ~Goginan~.--Lead-mines have destroyed scenery. A wild country
around Pont Erwydd, where the route turns to the right.

(_b_) ~Alternative Route.~--The direct road to Devil's Bridge commences
in Bridge Street, crosses the harbour, and passes under the railway.

About five miles out Cader Idris appears, twenty miles away to the
left. The view afterwards into the Rheidol Valley is very fine. The
highest point of the road, 989 feet above sea-level, commands a fine
view of the two peaks of Plynlimmon. Castell-fan-Crach is a
prehistoric earthwork.

~The Devil's Bridge~ is situated in what is probably the finest and most
picturesque glen in the British Isles; the approach to it by either of
the roads described gives only a slight idea of its merits. The monks
of Strata Florida Abbey are supposed to have built the arch in the
time of Rufus; the second bridge dates from 1814. The Devil's Punch
Bowl, the Robbers' Cave, and the Falls of the Rheidol, should be seen.

The road to Llangurig from Pont Erwydd leads through a bare valley
containing a large number of abandoned lead-mines--the dead hopes of
thousands of sanguine speculators. The highest point of the road,
1,368 feet, is only two and a half miles from the summit of Plynlimmon
(2,469 feet high), about two miles from the source of the Wye, and
four miles from that of the Severn. The mountain is dull and
uninteresting, being more of a flat spreading lump than a peak, and
has extensive tracts of bog-land and marsh. Descending towards
Llangurig, the Wye is crossed near an inn, and accompanies the road
down the valley, which is cultivated to a certain extent in its lower
portion. At Llangurig the main route is reached between Llanidloes and
Rhayader.

(_For a description of the 30½ miles between Llangurig and Cemmaes,
see Section VII._)




SECTION VII

(TRUNK ROUTE)

DOLGELLEY TO LLANGURIG, 48¼ MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                       Miles.
     =Dolgelley= to Cross Foxes            3½
     =Cross Foxes= to Dinas Mawddwy        7
     =Dinas Mawddwy= to Cemmaes            7¼
     =Cemmaes= to Llanbrynmair             5¾
     =Llanbrynmair= to Carno               6
     =Carno= to Caersws                    5¼
     =Caersws= to Llandinam                2½
     =Llandinam= to Llanidloes             6
     =Llanidloes= to Llangurig             5


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

Steady rise to =Cross Foxes=, then very steep ascent to top of =Cold
Door Pass= (1 in 8), 988 feet high.

Easy descent to =Dinas Mawddwy=.

=Dinas Mawddwy to Carno.=--Undulating, but a rise just before Carno, 1
in 12.

=Carno to Caersws.=--Steady descent, occasionally sharp.

After =Caersws= undulating, with a few stiff hills to =Llangurig=.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Dolgelley.=--Small town possessing little interest in itself.
Surroundings include Torrent Walk, Precipice Walk, Cader Idris, and
innumerable spots to which excursions on foot may be taken.

=Cross Foxes.=--Splendid view from near this inn.

=Dinas Mawddwy.=--A little town, prettily situated; grand view of Aran
Mawddwy, 2,970 feet.

=Talerddig.=--A natural rock arch.

=Caersws.=--Small village on site of Roman station, with visible
earthworks.

=Llanidloes.=--A typical Welsh market town; the church; Van Mines.

=Llangurig.=--The highest village in Wales.


  [Map: (TRUNK) No. 7. DOLGELLEY TO LLANGURIG.]

DOLGELLEY,

the capital town of Merionethshire, is situated in a wide and fertile
valley of singular beauty at the foot of Cader Idris. The streets are
exceptionally short and irregular. The parish church of St. Mary has
no particular merits; in it is preserved a fourteenth-century effigy
of one of the Vaughans, or Vychans, of Nannau. From Dolgelley various
excursions may be made to such places of rare beauty as the ~Precipice
Walk~, cut high up on the face of Moel Cynwch, with views over the
Gaullwyd Valley. ~The Torrent Walk~ is beautified by the rich greens and
browns lavished by Nature on the rocks by the foaming torrent of the
Clywedog. Three fine waterfalls are also to be found in the
neighbourhood, one the well-known Pistyll-y-Cain, while the ascent of
Cader from this town is a very desirable one.

The road from Dolgelley to Dinas Mawddwy is an interesting one, both
by reason of the stiff climbs and also the fine views that accompany
it. The surface is generally inclined to be rough, and upon the
occasion of the writer's recent visit the portion leading down into
Dolgelley was appallingly bad. No doubt this state of things does not
exist now. At the ~Cross Foxes Inn~ the road turns sharply to the left
and mounts to ~Cold Door Pass~, situated upon a bleak moor, with a
splendid view of Cader Idris standing in grand isolation and beauty.
Many mountains suffer by the proximity of other heights, but Cader is
an exception. From the pass the road gradually descends through a
valley, increasing in beauty of verdure and foliage, to Dinas Mawddwy.


DINAS MAWDDWY

This sequestered little town lies in a deep hollow formed by the
junction of two valleys, which discharge the streams they respectively
contain into the Dovey, occupying the main valley. The town consists
of one long street, with the grounds and house of Plas at the
termination. The church is chiefly known for its enormous yews, one in
particular being of really vast dimensions. Dinas Mawddwy is a centre
for anglers, sportsmen, and artists, and, during the season, for
excursionists. From the road a waterfall is a prominent feature.

The road from Dinas Mawddwy follows the course of the Dovey, and lies
in a valley of singular beauty; although the mountains on either side
seldom approach 1,500 feet, yet they possess a beauty of form which
seems characteristic of the district, and are, as a rule, well wooded.


CEMMAES

is a fairly large village lying off the main road, and nestling for
shelter under an outlying crag of the mountains to the west. Shortly
after, at Cemmaes Road, the route turns sharply to the left (by going
straight on one approaches Machynlleth), and looking backwards a fine
array of familiar peaks are seen up the broad valley just traversed.
The road to Caersws is at first very winding, with occasional sharp
dips; pleasant glimpses are obtained into well-wooded glens, where
tributaries of the river flow over their troubled course to join the
Afon Garno, or Carno, and before reaching Carno an extraordinary
stratification of the rocks is revealed, chiefly in the railway
cutting. A natural arch of anticlinal stratification occurs at
Talerddig, with every appearance of being built of masonry. At Carno
the valley becomes open and pastoral.


CAERSWS

stands at the confluence of the River Carno and the Severn, and was a
place of considerable importance in the Roman period. Their influence
is still seen in the straight piece of road just traversed, and in
other sections still to be passed. In the centre of the village the
winter camp is seen, a rampart about 150 yards square, with the road
cutting across the centre. The vallum and accompanying fosse are at
some points well preserved. Several summer camps occupy the
surrounding heights, and many traces of the great Roman road going
east and west are to be discovered. At Moat Lane Junction, which lies
at a short distance to the left of the route, is a rectangular earthen
fort, with a moat adjacent surrounding a high mound, now covered with
firs. At ~Llandinam~ a statue to a certain David Davies stands
prominently by the roadside. The Severn Valley here is wide and open,
with many plantations of firs; the railway runs close beside the river
for miles. In the distance upon the right may be seen the rounded
summits of Plynlimmon, often dark and sombre against the sky.


LLANIDLOES

This is a typical Welsh market town, extremely uninteresting and
remarkably dull, with the depressing style of architecture so
characteristic of the majority of houses in the Principality.
Externally dreary, too, are the places of worship, and one longs for a
board of architects and artists who will supervise new building plans
and save the land from further ugliness, so conspicuous where Nature
is so full of artistry. The town is devoted to the Welsh flannel
industry, and is well known to climbers as the jumping-off point for
the ascent of Plynlimmon, about ten miles to the west as the crow
flies. In the deeply furrowed shoulders of this mountain are the
birthplaces of two famous rivers, the Wye and the Severn. About two
miles north of the town are the Van Lead Mines, once so important; and
upon Van Hill, close to them, occurs a large hill-fort, of which so
many are scattered about this district.

The Market-house is of wood, and decidedly quaint; the church
possesses a ceiling of carved oak, reputed to have been transported
from the suppressed Abbey of Cwm Hir, in Radnorshire; it stands near
the bridge, and is dedicated to St. Idloes. From this point a rather
pretty view is obtained of the Severn uniting with a tributary, the
Clywedog.

The five miles between Llanidloes and Llangurig present occasionally
landscapes reminding one forcibly of English pastorals, if the
mountains can possibly be kept out of sight. The village of ~Llangurig~
possesses a small church of no very great interest; perhaps the chief
fact connected with the place is that the village is the highest in
Wales, for it stands at an elevation of nearly 1,000 feet above the
level of the sea.

(_For the road between Llangurig and Talgarth, see pp. 180-185._)




=LOOP= No. 5

=FIRST PORTION=: TALGARTH TO ST. DAVID'S--=SECOND PORTION=: ST. DAVID'S TO
HEREFORD

TALGARTH TO CARDIGAN AND ST. DAVID'S, 117¼ MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                        Miles.
     =Talgarth (Bronllys)= to Brecon        8¼
     =Brecon= to Llandovery                20¾
     =Llandovery= to Llanwrda               4¼
     =Llanwrda= to Pumpsaint                8
     =Pumpsaint= to Lampeter                8¼
     =Lampeter= to Newcastle               23
     =Newcastle= to Cardigan               10½
     =Cardigan= to Newport                 12
     =Newport= to Fishguard                 6¾
     =Fishguard= to St. David's            15½


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

To =Brecon= good road, and thence to =Llandovery= splendid.

=Llandovery to Lampeter.=--Very good; to =Cardigan=, steep hills at
times.

=Cardigan to Fishguard.=--A succession of steep hills, mostly 1 in 11
or 12; at =Fishguard= descent and ascent of 1 in 7, dangerous turns;
dangerous hairpin turn on the hill into =Nevern=.

=Fishguard to St. David's.=--Undulating, but good.


=PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE=

=Brecon.=--Very pleasant town; the Priory Church, a massive structure,
chiefly Early English and Decorated; fragments of town walls.

=Llandovery.=--A small and not unpicturesque town; ruins of the
castle.

=Llanwrda.=--A pretty village in fine mountain scenery.

=Lampeter.=--A small town famous as a fishing centre. The college is
the chief building.

=Newcastle Emlyn.=--Small town with beautiful ruins of the castle.

=Cardigan.=--A considerable town; the bridge over the Teifi; the
remains of the castle; church not interesting. Within three miles
are--(1) St. Dogmael's Priory ruins; (2) the beautifully-situated
Kilgerran Castle.

=Nevern.=--Castle ruins; a very interesting church with early
inscribed crosses.

=Newport.=--A small fishing town; the castle.

=Fishguard.=--Goodwick Sands; the harbour; the Pen Caer Peninsula;
fine coast scenery.

=St. David's.=--A small scattered place, scarcely more than a village;
beautiful cathedral; picturesque ruins of the palace. Grand
coast-line, deeply indented.


  [Map: LOOP 5 (FIRST PORTION). TALGARTH TO LLANDILO.]

  [Map: LOOP 5. TALGARTH TO ST. DAVID'S AND HAVERFORDWEST.]

The road from Talgarth to Brecon presents no special features except
those of picturesque hill and dale, with various streams crossing the
road at intervals.


BRECON

Brecon, the county town of Brecknockshire, lies upon the River Usk,
and was formerly defended by walls and gates. Of the castle,
destroyed as usual during the Civil War, only a few fragments near
the Castle Hotel have survived, and one restored section facing the
river.

~St. Mary's Church~ has suffered so much from bad restoration that
practically nothing of archæological interest remains in it.

~The Priory Church.~--This building is only excelled in Wales by the
Cathedrals of St. David's and Llandaff. It is a massive cruciform
structure, with a central tower, high roof and gables, and an
external aspect almost devoid of ornamentation. The eastern portions
are of Early English work, and the nave was gradually transformed
during the fourteenth century into a Decorated building, with great
octagonal piers, broad arches, and a lofty clerestory. The carved
Norman font should be noticed, and also a number of effigies, one
dating from 1359. An interesting feature are the chapels on either
side of the presbytery, called respectively the Chapel of the Normans
and the Chapel of the Men of Battle, the priory being a cell of Battle
Abbey. The guilds of the town had chapels in the nave, those of the
tailors, weavers, tuckers, and courvisors, or shoemakers, being at the
west end. The domestic buildings still remain, and are attached to the
southern side of the west end of the nave; the building has been
restored by Sir Gilbert Scott. The town is a pleasant one by reason of
the many public walks in and about it, and fine views may be obtained
of the well-known Beacons, some of them approaching 3,000 feet in
height.

       *       *       *       *       *

The district round Brecon abounds in prehistoric camps and various
remains of the British, Roman, and Saxon occupations. On the road to
Llandovery, for instance, near Llanspyddyd, there is a Roman fort,
and another of unknown origin adjoining, with a Roman road passing
round them. Senny Bridge merely consists of a long street of
uninteresting houses. At ~Trecastle~ there is an important mound, at one
time crowned with a fortalice. From the centre of this village there
is a steep ascent. The River Usk accompanies the road, and appears
under various surroundings--now as a placid stream winding through
meadowlands, and again as a foaming torrent in a deep, tree-shaded
glen. This road through the outliers of the Beacons abounds in
picturesque views of a well-wooded country, backed by the great
swarthy slopes of the hills, called the Black Mountains, although the
dark brown sandstone of which they are composed is the same colour as
the brown heath upon them.


LLANDOVERY

Llandovery consists chiefly of two streets, which converge at the
market-place, and a welcome change is the red wash with which many of
the houses are covered, as a relief from the ubiquitous whitewash of
the rest of Wales.

~The Castle.~--This has nearly disappeared, and only two dismantled
circular towers, with a curtain wall between, remain. They may be
found standing on a grassy knoll near the Castle Hotel. The River Bran
is fairly wide at this point, and passes under a fine bridge.

Upon leaving Llandovery a level crossing has to be negotiated; the
road crosses the River Towy, and then turns sharply to the left.

~Llanwrda~ is a pretty village situated amid lovely pastoral scenery,
and with a fine prospect over the valley. The road here turns at right
angles towards the north, and between this point and the Hafod Bridge
Inn, nearly four miles, the scenery is distinctly and strikingly
beautiful. The small stream, the Dulais, accompanies the route,
passing and repassing under the road. Near Pumpsaint lies a gold-mine,
the Ogofan, and here the River Cothi, beloved of piscators, comes down
from the mountains on its way to the Towy. Between Pumpsaint and
Lampeter high ground is crossed, and a portion of the Sarn Helen Roman
road appears near an inn beyond Pont-ar-Twch. Near Lampeter a village
occurs bearing the ominous name of Rain.


LAMPETER

is one of the best-known fishing centres in Wales, the River Teifi
affording exceedingly good sport. It is a well-built town, situated
in a fertile valley. The bridge over the stream is said to have been
erected in the time of King Stephen, from which the town claims the
name of Lampeter Pont Stephen. The chief building is St. David's
College, theological, designed for those who cannot afford Oxford or
Cambridge. To gain the road for Newcastle Emlyn and Cardigan the river
at Lampeter must be recrossed, and the turning taken to the right at
'Gwar Gate' Inn. The route gives a striking view over the valley of
the Teifi, whose extraordinary meanderings and loopings appear as a
huge serpent of silver lying in the broad landscape. The road for a
considerable distance is of Roman construction--the Sarn Helen, but
even those conquerors of the world could not conquer Nature in Wales
and make their roads straight.

~Llanbyther~ is a small and prettily-situated village, with one of the
numerous 'Pen-y-Gaer' camps lying close to the road. The New Quay Road
Station of Llanfihangel-ar-Arth turns off to the right soon after the
Aber-Iar Inn; it is of a second-class character, but saves a
considerable distance and some hills on the way to Llandyssil.

~Llandyssil~ is a romantically-situated village upon the banks of the
Teifi, which here assume a rocky character. Its church is dedicated to
St. Tyssul, who lived in the early part of the sixth century. From
Llandyssil the road south of the river should be taken to Newcastle
Emlyn; it has many awkward turns.


NEWCASTLE EMLYN

is a well-situated town with a long street running at right angles to
the coach-road.

~The Castle~ is a beautifully-placed ruin, with grand views over the
surrounding country. The position of the fortress for natural defence
is most remarkable, for the Teifi here forms a reversed S, and in one
of the loops so made the ruins are situated, the moat thus naturally
formed being one of the most remarkable in existence. The most ancient
building upon the site is reputed to have had a Roman origin; the
second was erected by Sir Rhys ap Thomas (who built Dynevor Castle) in
the time of Henry VII., who frequently resided here, and from it the
town was termed 'New-castle.' The Royalists held it throughout the
Civil War, but after that period it appears to have lapsed into ruin.
Two octagonal towers supporting an arch give entrance to the ruins.

Three miles out from Newcastle Emlyn is ~Cenarth~, a most picturesque
and pleasantly-situated little village upon the border between
Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire. There is a fine salmon-leap close
to the hamlet which is worth seeing. The road thence to Cardigan
traverses a plain, becoming more and more open as the town is
approached, presenting a broad sweep of smiling woods and pasture.


CARDIGAN

The chief centre of interest in Cardigan is undoubtedly the bridge
over the Teifi. It probably dates from the Early English Period, and
has been widened. From this point there is a good view up and down the
river, with the castle and church as prominent features.

~The Castle.~--The small portion hidden away in the ivy at the present
time affords no clue to the former size and importance of this
stronghold. It was founded in the time of Henry II. by the Prince of
South Wales, and after a chequered career was dismantled at the
Commonwealth. The keep is now occupied by private houses.

~The Church~ (_key obtained at one of the cottages in the road_).--The
tower is a fine one, but so far as the whole interior is concerned it
must be confessed that all ecclesiological features of interest have
been obliterated by paint, plaster, and incongruous additions. The
chancel arch, of the Perpendicular period, has a fearful and wonderful
'skew,' which may or may not have been acquired by age.

The town contains a number of old houses, nooks, and byways, but they
are only moderately interesting to the artist, who finds his best
subjects by the bridge and along the river, where sailing-boats and
small steamers reveal the picturesque qualities generally to be found
in small ports. One feature of the town soon attracts attention--namely,
the strong reluctance of the majority of chimneys in Cardigan to keep
to the perpendicular.

~St. Dogmael's Priory~, less than two miles from Cardigan, lies upon the
left of the estuary. The remains are of the Early English period, and
are still considerable. Martin de Tours, who came over with the
Conqueror (not St. Martin), was the founder.

~Kilgerran Castle~, three miles south of the town, and easily reached by
road, stands upon a vast bare rock uplifted above the foaming, eddying
stream rushing round its base, through a narrow channel in the rocks.
Many eulogistic statements have been made concerning this
beauty-spot, but none have overpraised it. The ruins consist of two
towers, with part of a gateway and curtain wall, together with
fragments of massive bastions. It was erected about 1223, when
Marshall, Earl of Chepstow, subdued the Welsh in these districts.

       *       *       *       *       *

~On leaving for Newport~, the long rise of the road affords, in about
two miles, a remarkably fine view towards the left. With Mynydd
Prescelly for a background, the composition of the foreground and
middle distance by a beautiful vale is singularly impressive, and this
view, with panoramic changes, accompanies the road to Nevern.

The hills seen in the front have massive rocky crags penetrating their
otherwise smooth outline.

~Nevern.~--A very dangerous turn in the road ushers the traveller into
this beautiful little village, embowered in the midst of rich meadows,
orchards, and gardens in a situation which is eminently picturesque
and pleasing. The River Nevern flows through the village, and an
amphitheatre of well-wooded hills encloses it.

~The Castle~ consists of some slight remains of a Norman building,
apparently of a square plan, with bastions at the angles.

~The Church~ is one of the largest in the county, and of very great
interest. It is of Early English architecture, with a Perpendicular
recess forming a chapel upon the south side. In the window-sill of the
south window of this chapel is inserted a long granite stone, with an
Ogham inscription upon it, together with a slab bearing an excellent
example of an early interlaced cross. The church stands in a quite
ideal sloping churchyard, containing a stone cross about 13 feet in
height, with Celtic ornamentation and two inscriptions, not yet
satisfactorily deciphered, as far as the writer is aware. Near the
south porch is a menhir with an inscription.

~The Pentre Evan~ cromlech, one of the finest known, lies about three
miles from Nevern by road, but less than two as the crow flies. A car
may be taken by a third-class road for the greater part of the
distance, but a local guide is necessary.


NEWPORT

Newport is a small fishing town, and also a seaport, upon the estuary
of the Nevern. It is a quiet watering-place, the sea-bathing being
very good, while the surrounding country is of enticing interest.

~The Castle~ was built in 1215, and used by the lords of Cemmaes for
their courts. It was destroyed by Llewelyn, but restored recently by a
descendant of the first baron, but in such strong contrast to the
original Norman architecture that it is very disappointing externally.

~The Church~ has been built near the castle, and partakes somewhat of
its character, being stern and massive in its proportions. The
interior contains nothing of particular interest.

A small cromlech lies within a few hundred yards of the centre of the
town, to which any inhabitant will direct one. Occasional glimpses of
the estuary, with its sands gleaming in the sun, are obtained from the
main streets of the town.

The road between Newport and Fishguard reveals a wide view of the
Prescelly Mountains, the highest in Pembrokeshire, and a favourite
climb for visitors. A most attractive view of Goodwick Harbour, now
generally known as Fishguard, is obtained from the road, or, better
still, from one of the steep meadows on either hand. The great
importance of this harbour in connection with the Atlantic mail and
passenger service has suddenly brought a remote district into
prominence. It is now a familiar sight for the natives to see a huge
liner in this natural harbour take on passengers and cargo, while a
few years ago the waters of the deep inlet had never been churned by
propellers.

The descent into Fishguard of 1 in 7 must be taken with extreme
caution; at the foot of the curving descent a bridge crosses the Afon
Gwaen, and from this the road climbs with equal suddenness and at an
equally trying angle. It is a hill calculated to test to the last
fraction of its horsepower the capacity a car possesses in
hill-climbing. At the top of the ascent the whole bay is spread out in
panoramic fashion, and one can see the new breakwater, still
incomplete, protecting the anchorage.

The road from Fishguard to St. David's passes first across the isthmus
of the Pen Caer Peninsula, whose northern part terminates in Strumble
Head. This district is the happy hunting-ground for the archæologist,
as it literally teems with prehistoric remains--castles, camps, stone
circles, cromlechs, and menhirs, are encountered almost at every step.
Two miles out of Fishguard the turning to the right should be taken at
a puzzling junction of roads. At Mathry some cromlechs occur near the
road, and two miles farther on a wayside cross may be seen. The hills
in this neighbourhood generally have the formation noticed previously
at Cardigan--namely the projection of high tors from their summits,
breaking through otherwise smooth elevations. Nearing St. David's Head
it is obvious that the face of the landscape is gradually changing:
the hedgerows become less in height, and are often mere mounds of turf
or stone; the few trees met with are dwarfed and attenuated, and
invariably lean away from the south-west. As St. David's comes nearer
these characteristics become accentuated, and a barren, wind-swept
moorland appears, almost unrelieved by a single tree.


[Map: PLAN OF ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL.]

ST. DAVID'S

The modern town of St. David's has a sad and desolate air, arising
from the number of abandoned houses to be seen on every hand.

~The Cathedral~ (_nave open free on weekdays, 9 to 1 and 2 to 6; a
charge of 6d. is made for admission to the eastern chapels_) is in a
remarkable situation at the farther end of the town, and practically
bursts upon the view when the edge of the deep hollow it occupies is
reached. In such an exposed corner of Britain it is not surprising
that everything should take what shelter it can find, but to walk
through a rather dreary and wind-swept Welsh village, and to
_discover_ a magnificent cathedral cowering almost out of sight at
one's very feet, is not an everyday occurrence even with the touring
motorist. A score of abbeys planted in sequestered valleys will come
to the mind of anyone who has explored this island, but a
well-preserved cathedral built in a deep and narrow hollow in a rocky
promontory almost takes away what little breath the blustering wind
has left to the exploring stranger. To the left is the old tower
gateway, a weather-worn remnant of the embattled fortifications which
once encircled the monastery. Down below, and approached by a long and
steep flight of stone steps, stands the church, with the square tower
of rather unsatisfactory outline dominating the nave, transept, and
eastern portions of the buildings. Beyond appears one of the most
beautiful ruins that ever gladdened the eye--the remains of one of the
finest episcopal palaces to be seen in the British Isles. Near the
church are also grouped ruins of the conventual buildings, and the
whole forms a scene that indelibly impresses itself upon the memory.
Descending the thirty-nine steps, one reaches the south porch of the
nave. Whatever preconceived ideas one may hold of the beauty of this
part of the church, the sight of the original far surpasses them. The
beautiful Norman pillars and graceful arches, ornamented with the most
elaborate chevron and zigzag mouldings of the Transitional period; the
clerestory springing directly from the dwarfed triforium with which it
is incorporated; and the whole surmounted by a finely-wrought timber
roof, make a picture of the rarest perfection. The colouring is full
of subtle richness, the stonework being of a soft dove-grey combined
with a bluish tinge. The building dates from 1180, the previous church
having been burnt down by pirates. The tower fell in 1220, and was
rebuilt at different periods. The choir and transepts are Early
English, but were added to in the Decorated period. The eastern
chapels are Decorated, as is also the beautiful rood-screen. The
ceiling in the nave dates from _c._ 1500. Many objects of interest are
contained in the building; the shrines of St. David and St. Caradoc,
the tomb of Edmund Tudor, father of Henry VII., the monument of Bishop
Gower, the chapel of St. Thomas à Becket, and the fan tracery of the
roof in Bishop Vaughan's Chapel, are all worthy of careful inspection.
Outside the north wall of the nave gigantic and ill-proportioned
buttresses are seen, built in 1248 to strengthen the nave, which had
suffered from an earthquake; on the opposite side are the remains of
the cloisters of St. Mary's College, begun in 1362.

The exploration of the ruins of the Bishop's Palace should on no
account be omitted, as the lower chambers, the row of clerestory
arches, the beautiful doorways, and the general composition of the
whole ruin, are worthy of the closest attention.

Upon the return to the main street the ancient cross is seen, no less
than 28 feet in height; the steps were restored by Bishop Thirlwall in
1873.

The coast scenery at St. David's is remarkably wild, and the subjects
for the painter in oils or water-colours, or for the less ambitious
who carry a sketch-book and a good soft pencil, are full of particular
attractiveness. To those who are without the desire or capacity to
carry away any permanent impressions of the scenery it will be enough
to lie in a sheltered spot and watch the white waves burst into
columns of spray on the northern end of Ramsey Island.




LOOP No. 5--SECOND PORTION

ST. DAVIDS TO HEREFORD, 132¼ MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                                      Miles.
     =St. David's= to Haverfordwest                      15¾
     =Haverfordwest= to Narberth                         10¼
     =Narberth= to Red Roses                              7
     =Red Roses= to Carmarthen                           14¾
     =Carmarthen= to Pontacothi                           6¼
     =Pontacothi= to Llandilo                             8¾
     =Llandilo= to Llangadock                             6¾
     =Llangadock= to Llandovery                           5½
     =Llandovery= to Trecastle                            9
     =Trecastle= to Devynock                              3¼
     =Devynock= to Brecon                                 8¾
     =Brecon= to Talgarth (Bronllys)                      8¼
     =Bronllys= to Three Cocks Inn                        2½
     =Three Cocks Inn= to Hay                             4¾
     =Hay= to Clifford                                    2½
     =Clifford= to Hereford                              18¼


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

=St. David's to Haverfordwest.=--This road has a fine surface, but
hills are frequent and all dangerous. They range from 1 in 8 to 1 in
12.

=Haverfordwest to Carmarthen.=--This also has a good surface, but the
hills are numerous. Near Narberth is a hill 1 in 9.

=Carmarthen to Brecon.=--Splendid surface and easy gradients.

=Brecon to Hereford.=--An excellent road without dangerous hills.

=Hay.=--A toll of 9d. must be paid for crossing the river.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Solva.=--A village in pretty scenery.

=Pointz Castle.=--An earthwork.

=Roche Castle.=--Very conspicuous.

=Haverfordwest.=--A pleasant town; the castle, now a gaol; St. Mary's
Church, with ancient wooden carving; the Priory Ruins.

=Narberth.=--A little town with ruins of its castle.

=St. Clears.=--A small port.

=Carmarthen.=--A busy county town; the castle, now the gaol; the
Guildhall; the church; Picton Monument; interesting market.

=Llandilo.=--Small town on high ground; Dynevor Castle; Careg Cennen
Castle.

=Llandilo to Talgarth.=--See Loop 6, Part I.

=Hay.=--A little town on English border; the castle, an interesting
structure (not open).

=Clifford Castle=, birthplace of Fair Rosamond.

=Whitney.=--Beautiful scenery on the Wye; old timbered houses.

=Hereford.=--The cathedral, Norman to Perpendicular; the Shire Hall;
the castle green; interesting old houses.


  [Map: LOOP 5 (EASTERN END). TALGARTH TO HEREFORD.]

The distance from St. David's to Haverfordwest is sixteen miles, or,
as the natives naïvely express it, 'sixteen miles and seventeen
hills.' For the switchback contour, however, one is compensated by
the wide views generally obtained when the tops of the hills are
reached, before plunging downwards into the next sudden hollow. The
same characteristics of wild moorland and storm-swept down prevail as
noticed upon the road to St. David's, and it is very interesting to
note how gradually the vegetation develops as the route progresses.
About two miles out the little village of ~Solva~ is passed, lying upon
a romantic inlet in this iron-bound coast, and recalling, to some
extent, the fishing village of Staithes, in Yorkshire. The view over
St. Bride's Bay, with Skomer Island as the farthest point, is
exceedingly fine on a crisp, sunny morning, and shortly after leaving
Solva, Pointz Castle, an earthwork, appears upon the right hand, at a
short distance from the road. The sharp descent to ~Newgate~ brings one
almost within reach of the salt spray at high tide, and the road runs
for a few hundred yards by the sands of that name, giving a glimpse of
some fine coast scenery. There is an example here of a 'rolling
beach,' an accumulation of pebbles being washed over and over upon the
flat land beyond. The road now climbs to the uplands, upon which
stands ~Roche Castle~, a conspicuous landmark for many miles. It was
built in the reign of Henry III., but has later windows inserted.
Garrisoned for the King during the time of the Civil War, it was
captured by the Parliamentarians, but subsequently retaken. Lord St.
Davids, the present owner, has adapted it for modern habitation. Its
position upon a rocky scar, in the midst of a treeless plain, is
peculiarly imposing.

As the road approaches Haverfordwest trees of respectable proportions
begin to appear, no longer leaning towards the north-east.


HAVERFORDWEST

The town of Haverfordwest occupies an important position among those
of South Wales, and is the centre of commerce for a large district.
The streets are narrow and steep, with sharp turnings, probably caused
by the confinement of the ancient fortifications which once protected
the town. Of these practically nothing remains but the shell of a
strong castle, now converted into the county gaol, standing upon a
rocky eminence overlooking the town. Although very impressive when
viewed from a distance or from the River Cleddau in the town, it
hardly repays minute inspection. Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Pembroke,
is said to have built it about 1120, and it became, with that of
Pembroke, one of the most important fortresses in 'Little England,' as
the southern part of Pembroke was termed. It was demolished by order
of Oliver Cromwell.

~St. Mary's Church~ is of great interest, the exterior showing some
fantastic gargoyles, and the nave some fine clustered columns of Early
English work, with a Perpendicular clerestory above. The ceilings
should be noticed, and also the early lancets at the west end. It is a
beautiful church, full of light, with no gloomy corners. There is an
ancient wooden carving of St. Michael the Archangel and the Dragon,
dating from the fifteenth century.

~The Priory Ruins~ are situated a short distance from the southern part
of the town, and are quite picturesque. They are the remains of a
priory of Austin Canons erected in the twelfth century. The very
liberal grants of Robert de Hwlffordd, lord of this town, were
confirmed by Edward III. The remains of the minster are of Early
English work.

The road from Haverfordwest takes a sharp turn to the right upon
leaving the town, and passes over the railway-lines. An isolated
church stands upon a hill to the right, and soon afterwards the woods
surrounding ~Picton Castle~, two miles away, come into view. It is one
of the most ancient residences in the kingdom, having been built by a
De Picton in the reign of Rufus. From that time it has been inhabited
by an unbroken line of proprietors, never deserted, never vacant. The
alterations have not very much affected the baronial style of the
building, and until quite recently it presented the appearance of a
medieval fortress.

At Canaston Bridge the road crosses the eastern Cleddau, which
discharges into Milford Haven, and here, upon the left, at about a
mile, lies the picturesque ruin of ~Llawhaden Castle~, once a residence
of the Bishops of St. David's. The gateway, flanked by two
demi-bastions, forms a very effective picture.

Approaching Narberth, the right-hand road should be taken at Robeston
Wathen. Fir-trees near this point begin to make their appearance,
having been conspicuously absent from St. David's to this point.


NARBERTH

There is a very steep hill in this town, leading to the ruins of a
Norman castle crowning the summit. They are picturesquely covered with
ivy, but the remains now apparent are small when compared with those
visible in the eighteenth century. The roads in the neighbourhood of
Narberth are rather misleading, as so many by-roads enter. Care should
be taken to decipher the sign-boards in many cases before proceeding.
Between Narberth and St. Clears, for instance, there are three roads
at Tavernspite near an inn, and the centre one should be taken.

~St. Clears~ is a long and straggling village at the head of an estuary
of the Taff, and vessels of small tonnage can reach it at high tide.
It formerly possessed a castle and a priory, but both have
disappeared. The town itself is uninteresting. Between St. Clears and
Carmarthen the small hamlet of Banc-y-Felin is particularly pleasing,
with a tributary of the Taff flowing through it.


CARMARTHEN

Carmarthen, the capital of the shire, stands upon the site of the
Roman _Maridunum_, and is the point of convergence of two roads, Via
Maritima and Via Montana. Some parts of the town stand at a
considerable elevation, and present an imposing picture from a
distance. It is an excellent example of an old Welsh town, retaining a
great deal of its primeval quaintness. Upon market-days, when it
swarms with people from the surrounding districts, one seldom hears a
word of English spoken, and the busy scenes witnessed in the bustling
market are mainly transacted in the mother-tongue. Upon entering the
town the Picton Monument is seen, raised in honour of the Peninsula
hero, who fell at Waterloo.

~The Church of St. Peter~ is a large building chiefly in the
Perpendicular style, with a lofty square tower. The interior has been
very carefully plastered so as to hide everything of interest. A Roman
altar, however, may be seen below the tower.

Sir Richard Steele, who died in 1729, the friend of Addison, and the
well-known man of letters, lies buried in this church. In his old age
he came to reside at Llangunnor, near Carmarthen.

~The Castle~, which at one time made Carmarthen a place of strength, was
demolished by the Parliamentarians, and the small portion remaining
has been converted into the county gaol. On leaving Carmarthen the
route towards Llandilo lies upon the Roman road, the Via Montana. It
includes some of the finest scenery in South Wales. There are two
roads running in the valley, with the railway separating them; the
north one is the more picturesque.

At a loop in the road about ten miles out, Middleton Hall, lying due
south, and erected by Sir William Paxton, may be recognized by the
tall tower which forms such a conspicuous landmark. It is known as
~Paxton's Tower~, but was raised by him in memory of Nelson. Almost
directly afterwards, ~Dryslwyn Castle~ comes in sight, a most
picturesque ruin, consisting of one tower and many fragments of walls.
It was besieged in the time of Edward I., when Lord Stafford and other
leaders lost their lives, in undermining the fortress, by the sudden
collapse of the walls beneath which they were operating.

On Grongar Hill, a few hundred yards away to the right, the poet Dyer
composed his poem 'Grongar Hill.' The view from the summit is
charming. On the farther side of the valley can be seen Golden Grove,
the residence of Viscount Emlyn. ~Dynevor Park and Castle~ come into
view upon the right front on reaching the neighbourhood of Llandilo.
The ruins stand upon a lofty mound a short distance from the road, in
the most attractive portion of the park. The first castle was built in
877, and almost rebuilt in the time of William the Conqueror. For
some centuries it was the residence of the Princes of South Wales.
Henry VII. granted it to Sir Rhys ap Thomas, a descendant of the
Princes, and ancestor of the present owner, Lord Dynevor. It was
occupied until 1760. The remains consist of a round keep and a square
tower, commanding a magnificent prospect. (_The ruins are open for
inspection to the bona-fide visitor upon application._)


LLANDILO

Llandilo is a small town perched upon two or three steep hills to the
north of the River Towy, crossed here by a stone bridge of one span.
The streets are narrow, with the public buildings grouped together in
the centre of the town. The church was thoroughly rebuilt in 1848, and
everything of interest then disappeared. If a stay can be arranged at
Llandilo, one of the most remarkable edifices in the kingdom, ~Careg
Cennen~, should be seen. It is a castle almost without a history,
standing upon a rocky height with inaccessible precipices on three
sides, the foremost one over 300 feet in height. Two square towers
guard the sloping ground upon the fourth side, and the main portion of
the castle occupies the summits of the precipices. The situation is
superb and the scenery delightful. The spirit of romance is free from
any of the handicaps usually suffered by the historian, for in this
castle among the clouds, in connection with which history is silent
(except a reputed origin in the thirteenth century at the hands of
Rhys of Wales), the wings of imagination may soar to any height. This
is a site awaiting the novelist in search of a romantic setting for a
story of the Middle Ages. It stands about five miles to the south-east
of Llandilo, overlooking the Vale of the Towy.

Between Llandilo and Llanwrda a large Roman camp can be seen lying
upon Carn Goch, and at the inn where the road turns to Llangadock a
large tributary joins the Towy. In a few miles Llanwrda is reached,
and the loop for St. David's is thus completed. For the road between
Llanwrda and Talgarth, see pp. 143-148.

The route from Talgarth to Hay is winding, and care should be taken to
avoid the numerous roads leading away from the main road, which lies
on the south side of the River Wye, and for a considerable distance is
parallel to the railway.

~Glasbury~, beyond the Three Cocks, is a small village much frequented
by the fishing fraternity; a fine prospect of the Black Mountains is
obtained, and the views generally are among the best to be found in
the district.

The entry into Hay is very pretty, with shady hedgerows and many of
the attributes of English scenery.


HAY

This little town lies upon the borders of England and Wales, at the
junction of the shires of Radnor, Hereford, and Brecon. The word 'Hay'
is allied to 'hedge,' meaning a boundary. It was at one time the main
entry into Wales from England, and naturally, from its position, it
has seen stirring times in the past.

~The Castle~ dominates the town, and is easily reached from the main
street; the entrance is at the back. The architecture now appears to
be a mixture of all kinds, including Tudor, for numerous additions
have been made. A residence constructed out of the old materials
occupies part of the site. Sir Philip Walwyn is supposed to have built
the first castle in 1090, and at the end of the twelfth century
extensive additions were made. Henry III. almost rebuilt it, and in
1233 Llewelyn ap Jorweth stormed it. Thirty years later it was taken
twice, and in the time of Glendower it was burnt. Many other minor
happenings have occurred to lend variety to its existence. James I.
made large additions to the building. The fortifying walls once
enclosing the town have nearly disappeared. The road upon the town
side traverses the former moat. A view across the river gives a
glimpse of a Roman camp near the stream, while to the north-west
stands Clyro, reached by a main road, and enclosed by beautiful woods.
A mound of earth and a moat are now the sole remains of the proud and
lordly Clyro Castle mentioned by Leland.

The ruins of Cusop Castle and Mouse Castle lie at a short distance
from the town, and a favourite excursion is that to the far-famed
~Llanthony~ ~Abbey~, lying amid romantic wilds some ten miles to the
south.

The route to Whitney crosses the river at Hay, passes through Clyro,
and in two miles affords a view of ~Clifford Castle~, standing upon a
bold eminence by the side of the river; it was the birthplace of Jane
de Clifford, the Fair Rosamond of Henry II., and the former residence
of the Lords de Clifford. The scenery in the environment of these
beautiful ruins is most charming. The route from Hay may be taken in
this direction if desired. (_A toll of 9d. has to be paid to cross the
river._)


WHITNEY

The village of Whitney is surrounded by a rich belt of pasture-land
interspersed with clumps of trees, and exceedingly beautiful scenery
is to be found upon the river-banks. There is no ancient church, for
it was washed away in a flood in the early part of the eighteenth
century. The beautiful views seen at Whitney unfold themselves more
and more as one reaches Letton, Merbach Hill upon the right, rising
high out of the ground like a hog's back, giving a characteristic
touch to the scenery. At Letton a particularly beautiful group of
black-and-white timbered cottages stand by the side of the road, and
remind one that English soil has been reached, and that the
never-ending monotony of the Welsh whitewashed cottages has at last
been left behind. At ~Staunton~, on the Wye, a little Early English
church is perched above the village. On the right there formerly stood
a castle, and near it is Moccas Park, the residence of Royalty in
Saxon times. The present owners are descended from Richard, the second
son of King John. After passing Byford a portion of ~Offa's Dyke~ occurs
upon the left, crossing over Mansell Hill. Some quaintly-cut yew-trees
may be seen near the Kite's Nest Inn, and just before entering
Hereford, at White Cross, an interesting cross is noticeable. It was
put up in 1347 by Bishop Charlton to commemorate the disappearance of
the Black Plague, and was restored by Archdeacon Lord Saye and Sele.

  [Illustration: HEREFORD CATHEDRAL FROM THE BANKS OF THE WYE.
   It belongs mainly to the Early English period, and is built of a
   reddish stone.]


  [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 7--HEREFORD.]

HEREFORD

is a pleasantly-situated town, but if it were not for the possession
of a cathedral the place would not offer any particular attractions
for visitors beyond the charming river scenery common to the Wye
Valley.

Hereford became a separate see in 673, and Putta was the first
Bishop. The first church was rebuilt in a better fashion when the
remains of the murdered Ethelbert were brought to Hereford, but this
pre-Norman structure was burnt by the Welsh in 1055. In 1079 Robert of
Lorraine, the first Norman Bishop, began the cathedral of which much
exists at the present day, using dark red sandstone. The choir up to
the clerestory, the arcades of the nave, and the south transept, are
Norman work of this early date.

The beautiful Lady Chapel, and the clerestory of the choir are Early
English. The north and both the eastern transepts, part of tower, and
the chapter-house, are Decorated. The chantries, sacristy, and a few
other parts, are Perpendicular. The western tower fell in 1786, and
brought down with it the west front and the first bay of the nave.
This disaster accounts for the modern west front. Upon entering the
nave the Norman bays are singularly impressive, especially the carved
capitals. The choir is entered through a metal chancel screen; the
stalls are richly carved, and 'the chair of King Stephen' is preserved
in it. Scattered about in the great building there are probably more
monumental tombs and effigies than in any other cathedral, and this is
especially true with regard to ecclesiastics. Two notable monuments
are those of Bishop Aquablanca (1245-1268), and the shrine of St.
Thomas of Cantilupe in the north transept. A famous archæological
treasure, the _Mappa Mundi_, a map of the world, drawn on one large
sheet of parchment in the thirteenth century by Richard de
Haldingham, is preserved in this building, and may be seen upon
application. The Bishop's Palace is close to the Wye, on the south
side of the cathedral.

~The Shire Hall~, a Grecian Doric building, standing in St. Peter's
Square, was erected in the early part of the last century.

~The Castle Green~ is the site of the vanished Castle of Hereford; it is
one of the prettiest parts of the town. Hereford contains some
interesting houses, and three of them, now used as a bank, may be seen
in the High Town. It was at one time the Butchers' Guildhall, and the
carving upon the outside, as well as the inside, is extremely ornate.




SECTION VIII (TRUNK ROUTE)

LLANGURIG TO ABERGAVENNY, 68 MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                                 Miles.
     =Llangurig= to Rhayader                         9¼
     =Rhayader= to Newbridge-on-Wye                  8
     =Newbridge-on-Wye= to Builth                    5½
     =Builth= to Hay                                19
     =Hay= to Bronllys                               7¼
     =Bronllys= to Talgarth                          1
     =Talgarth= to Castle Inn                        3½
     =Castle Inn= to Crickhowell                     8¼
     =Crickhowell= to Abergavenny                    6¼


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

The road is splendidly engineered, and as a rule has an excellent
surface. There are no really stiff gradients.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Rhayader.=--A small and uninteresting town; Birmingham reservoirs.

=Builth.=--Another small town, possessing no interest besides the site
of the castle and the wells.

=Talgarth= (1 mile distant).--Remains of Bronllys Castle; Llangorse
Pool.

=Crickhowell.=--The church; the castle ruins.

=Abergavenny.=--A market town; castle, now a recreation-ground;
church, with fine carved oak; earliest wooden effigy; the Blorenge.


  [Map: (TRUNK) No. 8. LLANGURIG TO ABERGAVENNY.]

The road to Rhayader traverses part of the Upper Wye Valley, and gives
frequent glimpses of troubled, foam-flecked water, alternating with
long reaches where the river slides smoothly along its rocky bed. The
setting is one of pastoral scenery, bounded by the rounded uplands,
which help to form the catchment basin for the great lakes which now
supply Birmingham with water. This gigantic undertaking, to be
extended altogether over fifty years, will eventually be the means of
constructing a chain of lakes in the vale of the Elan, effectually
providing for the future needs of the great manufacturing metropolis
so far as water is concerned.


RHAYADER

The chief attraction at Rhayader is the scenery, as nothing of
particular importance meets the eye in the town. It is a good
sketching-ground for artists, many excellent subjects being
discoverable in the surrounding country. To the angler it is a
paradise. Although it possesses two churches, they are not worthy of
the time required for inspecting them. The ~Wye~ here is an impetuous
mountain stream, plunging amid the rocks strewn along its course; to
this point the salmon reach the upper waters at the spawning season.
Between Rhayader and Builth there are several very sharp turnings in
the road, requiring considerable care if risks are to be avoided. The
~Wye~ is close to the road at many parts of its course, and forms the
boundary between the counties of Brecon and Radnor. Farther on the
stream begins to lose its torrential character, and, traversing this
well-wooded valley, assumes more of the calm and placid character with
which one generally associates it. It receives the superfluous water
from the great lakes of the Birmingham Corporation Reservoirs by the
Afon Elan soon after passing Rhayader. To the west of Newbridge-on-Wye,
Lysdinam Hall, the ancestral home of the Venables, is seen upon an
eminence.


BUILTH WELLS

This ancient town, the _Bullæum_ of the Romans, is the centre of trade
for the neighbouring districts, and derives much importance from its
wells--saline, sulphurous, and chalybeate. The population is less
than 2,000, but probably a regiment might be raised locally all
bearing the surname of Price or Powell.

~The Castle~, or rather the site of it, is near the town, close to the
Wye Bridge. It possesses a double fosse, a rampart of earth, and a
keep, which, judging from the foundation, must have been of great
size. It was besieged and captured by Llewelyn in 1260.

The scene of Llewelyn's death in 1282 lies near the Radnor road at
Cefn-y-Bedd, a few miles from the town. The Prince was refused a
refuge in Builth (hence 'The Traitors of Builth'), and, reversing his
horse's shoes, fled in the deep snow for safety, but was overtaken and
slain.

The church of Builth is a modern erection, and the town is
uninteresting.

The road from Builth to Talgarth passes through Erwood, at some five
miles' distance, and Garth Hill, crowned by an earthwork, lies to the
left; it is also the place where the English troops in quest of
Llewelyn forded the river in 1282. Two miles away to the left are the
celebrated Falls of Craig-pwl-du, a fall of 40 feet into a weird
ravine. The neighbourhood is full of interest to the antiquary and the
geologist. About three miles beyond Erwood the castle and woods of
Llangoed are passed, and Boughrood Castle appears on the left. ~Lyswen~
is reputed to have been an early residence of the Welsh Princes. The
general character of the road between Builth and Talgarth may be
stated as not wildly grand, but an exquisite combination of river
scenery with eminently beautiful surroundings, where the ruggedness of
the rocks is softened by a covering of verdure, and foliage in subtle
gradations of beauty appears on every hand. It is probably one of the
most splendid roads for scenery of this character in the Principality.

  [Illustration: THE WYE, SYMOND'S YAT, NEAR MONMOUTH, HEREFORDSHIRE.
   At this point the view embraces some of the finest river scenery in
   Britain.]


TALGARTH

This quiet little town, nestling under the shadow of the Black
Mountain, is chiefly noted for the proximity of ~Bronllys Castle~, one
mile distant, of Early English and reputed Norman architecture. It is
a round tower, 70 feet high, standing upon a mound, and its history
appears to have been lost. The Black Forest now lies upon the left
hand, and upon the right, at a few miles' distance, is Llangorse Lake,
a large but shallow sheet of water 500 feet above sea-level, and much
referred to as a probable source for the future supply of water to
London. The scheme is considered a feasible one, and the water would
flow to the metropolis by gravitation. According to tradition, the
lake covers the site of a large city which perished in some terrible
catastrophe--a similar type of legend to that of Semmerwater in
Wensleydale. As the road nears Crickhowell the great Sugar Loaf (1,955
feet) becomes prominent, with a number of small villages, farmsteads,
and cottages dotting the slopes of the lower hills. The River Usk now
appears descending a valley from Brecon, together with the main road
from that place.


CRICKHOWELL

~The Church~ is a building of some dignity, with nave, chancel, aisles,
and spire standing near the bridge.

~The Castle~ remains consist of a square tower in fair preservation,
flanked by a round one, together with tumbled mounds of masonry and
earth. Several beautifully-situated seats are near the village. From
Crickhowell to Abergavenny two roads run, one on either side of the
valley, that upon the right being slightly longer, but it is more
picturesque. The Sugar Loaf Mountain lies to the left across the
valley, while an opening in the hills to the right reveals a glimpse
into the Black Country of the South Wales Coalfield. Near Llangrwyne
there is a most romantic stretch of country, with many beautiful
features.


ABERGAVENNY

This flourishing market town claims a high antiquity in history as
being the direct descendant of the Roman _Gobannium_. Its quaint
narrow streets contain some houses of interest, while the splendid
country lying around tempts the tourist to stay.

~The Castle~, standing upon an eminence overlooking the Usk, was an
important Norman stronghold. William de Braose, in the twelfth
century, invited many Welsh chieftains to a Christmas feast in the
castle, and then foully murdered them; in retaliation their relatives
burnt the castle. It, however, rose again, and came after a time into
the Warwick family, passing eventually to the Nevilles, represented
now by the Marquis of Abergavenny, who lives at Neville Court, up the
river. As a ruin, now laid out as something between a tea-garden and a
recreation-ground, the castle is exceedingly disappointing. The steeps
of the Blorenge are well seen from the terrace.

~The Church~ is near the post office and market hall. The Herbert and
Lewes Chapels are the chief points of interest in it, but attention
should be drawn to the ancient carved-oak seats in the choir, and also
to the font. A colossal recumbent figure of what must at one time have
been a 'Jesse tree' is preserved here; it is 10 feet long, and the
stump of the tree remains, springing from the side of Jesse. When
complete it must have formed a splendid screen, standing behind the
high-altar. The wooden effigy of George de Cantelupe in the Herbert
Chapel (1273) is the finest example of early wood-carving extant in
these islands.

Near the church stands Priory Mansion, with a good garden, and
splendid oak panelling in the interior.

Abergavenny is an ideal place for the budding mountain-climber, who
can have excellent practice upon the Blorenge, the great Skyrrid, and
the Sugar Loaf.




SECTION IX

(TRUNK ROUTE)

ABERGAVENNY TO GLOUCESTER VIA NEWPORT AND MONMOUTH, 84¼ MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                             Miles.
     =Abergavenny= to Raglan Castle              9
     =Raglan Castle= to Usk                      5¼
     =Usk= to Caerleon                           7¾
     =Caerleon= to Newport                       3¼
     =Newport= to Caerwent                      11
     =Caerwent= to Chepstow                      5
     =Chepstow= to Tintern                       5¼
     =Tintern= to Monmouth                      11
     =Monmouth= to Whitchurch                    4½
     =Whitchurch= to Ross                        6
     =Ross= to Lea                               4½
     =Lea= to Dursley Cross                      3
     =Dursley Cross= to Gloucester               8¾


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

Abergavenny to Newport.=--No steep hills, fine surface.

Newport to Ross.=--A splendid road; at Chepstow a hill 1 in 12.

At =Whitchurch= a dangerous hill, 1 in 10, with poor surface.

After passing =Goodrich= the Wye is crossed by Kerne Bridge, where a
toll is charged for motor-cars.

=Ross to Gloucester.=--Very good; no stiff gradients.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Raglan.=--Village and church; beautiful ruins of the castle;
picturesque scenery.

=Usk.=--A village, with ruins of castle and a Norman church.

=Caerleon.=--A village, with museum of Roman antiquities; the
amphitheatre.

=Newport.=--A busy port; ruins of the castle; interesting church of
St. Woollos; the docks.

=Caerwent.=--Small village with Roman remains; Caldicott Castle is a
little to south of route.

=Chepstow.=--A market town; the castle, a fine example of a Norman
fortress; the church, chiefly of Norman architecture.

=Tintern Abbey.=--One of the most beautiful ruins in England.

=Tintern Parva.=--Hamlet, with small Early English church.

=Monmouth.=--A pleasant county town; the county buildings; Monnow
Bridge or Western Gate; church, modern except tower.

=Symond's Yat.=--Beautiful scenery on the Wye.

=Goodrich Castle.=--On the Wye; beautiful ruins of one of the earliest
castles built in England.

=Ross.=--Picturesque little town; Wilton Castle and bridge; the market
hall; the 'Man of Ross'; the church, good Early English work, with
interesting monuments; the castle remains.

=Dursley Cross.=--The Long Hope; very fine views.

=Gloucester.=--Old-fashioned county town; a grand cathedral, with tomb
of Edward II.; the Guildhall; the museum; Llanthony Abbey; the
churches of St. Catherine, St. Mary de Lode, St. Mary de Crypt, and
others; many old timbered houses; the New Inn.


  [Map: (TRUNK) No. 9. ABERGAVENNY TO GLOUCESTER.]

  [Map: ABERGAVENNY TO GLOUCESTER.]

Soon after leaving Abergavenny the classic portico of Coldbrook House,
in its large park, is passed upon the left. Looking backwards over the
route, the picturesque situation of Abergavenny is seen, with the
Sugar Loaf, nearly 2,000 feet in height, towering up beyond. Upon the
right Blorenge Hill stands out boldly, a great rounded mass clothed
with plantations to the summit. It is a prominent feature in the
landscape for some time.

Between Abergavenny and Llanvihangel-on-Usk the road follows the
railway-line and the river, and at the latter place a pretty stretch
of Usk scenery is met, while the fine church of Llangattock-juxta-Usk,
where there are some awkward turnings in the road, is well worth a
visit. Just beyond Llanvihangel the road to Raglan branches off to the
left, and a glance backwards shows the great mass of the Brecknock
Beacons silhouetted against the western sky. Clytha Castle, a building
dating from 1790, stands near this parting of the ways. Although so
near the border-line between England and Wales, the stereotyped
whitewashed cottages of Wales are still to be seen.


RAGLAN

The road to the castle turns to the left in the middle of the village,
and stops abruptly at a meadow in which are the entrance-gates.
(_Admission to the castle 6d. at any reasonable time on weekdays; on
Sundays from 2.30 to 5._)

A description of Raglan Castle that will give an approximate idea of
the exquisite beauty of this ruin has yet to be written; many have
attempted it, but all have fallen short of the charming reality. It is
a poem in stone; a crystallized ideal of all that was beautiful in
medieval architecture; the embodiment of centuries of progressive
emulation in castle-building, now mellowed by the hand of time, and
with its corners and rough edges covered by clinging masses of
creepers. It is eminently the most beautiful ruin to be met with in
this western tour. The chief characteristic is undoubtedly the
detached keep, which was built after the main structure; the element
of romance and mystery haunts one while looking down upon the dark
waters of the moat encircling this keep, and one feels a
disinclination to leave the place, although other castles await one.
No part of the building is of a date anterior to Henry V., and it was
chiefly erected by Sir William ap Thomas and his son, William, Earl of
Pembroke, who was beheaded in 1469.

Subsequent architecture, however, may be traced down to the time of
Charles I. It came into the possession of the Beaufort family (the
present owner is the Duke of that name) by the marriage of an
ancestor. The Earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry VII., was a prisoner
here for a time, and Charles I. sought refuge within these walls after
Naseby, in 1645. It was besieged by Fairfax in 1646, and dismantled by
Act of Parliament.

Raglan Church is not worthy of much attention if time is short. The
tower was rebuilt, it is said, after having been demolished for
strategic purposes by Cromwell's orders.


USK

Usk was formerly a Roman station, and in the immediate vicinity there
are several encampments, both Roman and British, where excellent
views are obtainable over the surrounding country, reaching to the
mountains near Abergavenny and to the wooded summits about Monmouth.

~The Castle~, now dismantled and covered with ivy, stands upon a
prominent hill to the north; the Parliamentarians were responsible for
its destruction.

~The Church~ is of Norman origin, with a tower rebuilt in recent years.


CAERLEON

     'For Arthur on the Whitsuntide before
     Held court at old Caerleon upon Usk.'
                     _Idylls of the King._

The name of Caerleon brings vivid recollections to the mind of the
Round Table and King Arthur, but its history commenced before the
sixth century, when the great Pendragon flourished. The name Caerleon
means 'The Camp of the Legion,' the Roman _Isca Silurum_, the capital
city of the province of _Britannia Secunda_. After the Roman
occupation it became a seat of learning. Remains of villas, Roman
walls, and other traces of the conquerors of the world, abound, and
the local museum is rich in treasures--chiefly of that period, but by
no means confined to it. The building is upon the farther side of the
churchyard. (_There is no fixed charge, but a box for contributions.
Key at the schoolhouse opposite._) The church is Early English, with
traces of Norman work in it. To the right of the schoolhouse a lane
leads for about a hundred yards to a field on the left, opposite a
racecourse, where the amphitheatre, 220 feet by 190 feet, may be seen.
Excavations have revealed the stone seats surrounding this concave
site, known locally as 'King Arthur's Round Table.' In the main street
of the sleepy little town some old timbered houses are found, and of
the once famous castle nothing now remains except a small tower, which
once protected the bridge over the river, behind the Hanbury Arms Inn.
The few houses upon the other bank of the Usk are known as 'Ultra
Pontem,' a most remarkable instance of persistence and survival. It is
difficult when walking through the streets of Caerleon to realize that
London, York, and this little place were once the three chief cities
of Britain.


NEWPORT

Newport is an example of rapid growth from a small market town into a
flourishing port, with extensive docks, wharves, and jetties. It,
however, may claim a high antiquity, for it formed a post during the
Roman period.

~The Castle.~--This was at one time an extensive building, and the river
face of it is still of impressive proportions. For many years the ruin
was occupied by a brewery, but the town has lately gained possession
of the sadly-diminished fortress. A deep moat, filled at high tide,
defended the walls of the bailey on the north, west, and south sides,
but all this has vanished, leaving only the eastern side, with three
imposing towers, washed by the muddy waters of the Usk. The Norman
Fitzharon, who conquered Glamorgan, built a castle at Newport towards
the close of the eleventh century; but the existing structure is three
centuries later, and was, to some extent, remodelled in the fifteenth
century. The town was protected by a wall as late as Leland's time,
and he speaks of three gates. One of these was close to the inn,
called the West Gate to this day. Conspicuous in the High Street is
the house of the _murringer_, a person whose duties were in connection
with the guarding of the wall.

~The Church of St. Woollos~ has been restored, but preserves many of its
Norman features, and contains interesting memorials, some of them of
considerable antiquity. A remarkable feature is the separation of the
tower from the church by a small building, the Chapel of St. Mary,
believed by some ecclesiologists to be the primitive church founded
_c._ 550, and, if so, the most ancient building still used for
Christian worship in the United Kingdom. The two structures are
divided by a good Norman arch, the columns of which appear to be of
Roman origin, and were possibly brought from Caerleon.

During the Chartist riots the Mayor of Newport, backed by some
soldiers, defended himself from a mob headed by Jack Frost. Bullet
marks may be seen upon a wooden pillar in the West Gate Hotel, where
the Mayor concentrated his defence, many of the rioters being killed
and wounded.

       *       *       *       *       *

The road from Newport to Caerwent gives wide views over the alluvial
flats between it and the Estuary of the Severn, protected from
inundations by extensive embankments, while to the north the great
woods lying upon high land are a pleasing contrast. At first the road
is nearly flat, but it becomes undulating near Caerwent. This road is
part of the _Via Julia_, which commenced near the mouth of the Severn,
passed through Caerwent and Caerleon, and terminated at Neath in
Glamorganshire.

~Cencoed Castle~ lies upon the right hand; the remains are not very
extensive, consisting chiefly of a gateway flanked with turrets. A
mansion was at one time incorporated with the main portion of the
castle, but was subsequently abandoned, and now the whole of the
buildings form a farmhouse.

~Penhow Castle~ lies by the side of the road, near the village of the
same name. A short time after the Norman Conquest this fortress was in
the possession of the Seymours. It seems to have been at one period
fairly extensive, but only an old square tower with battlements
remains, and this also has been converted into a farmhouse.


CAERWENT

is a small village with no pretensions of importance, although the
descendant of a strong Roman town. The walls stand from 10 to 12 feet
thick, are well preserved, and are similar in many respects to those
at Carnarvon. A good facing of stone is backed up by a solid mass of
concrete, and then a supporting bank of earth is raised behind them.
The church occupies a prominent position, but does not possess any
noteworthy feature. ~Caldicott~ ~Castle~, lying to the south of the
route, has extensive remains of the foundation of the twelfth century,
and at the same time some indications of Saxon work belonging to the
previous fortalice built upon the site. Passing Crick, Mathern is
perceived upon the right. The Bishops of Llandaff had a palace here in
medieval times, and portions of it are still in existence,
incorporated with the modern farm-buildings.


CHEPSTOW

is a market town and river port occupying a slope on the western bank
of the Wye, and surrounded by beautiful and sometimes imposing
scenery.

  [Illustration: COMING NIGHT, NEAR BEDDGELERT.
   Beddgelert is one of the most romantically situated villages in North
   Wales.]

~The Castle~ is the dominating feature in the town, and is one of the
finest examples of a Norman fortress that has been preserved. It
stands upon a rocky eminence, and occupies nearly three acres. Founded
by Fitz-Osborn, Earl of Hereford, in the eleventh century, it was
almost rebuilt in the thirteenth. It was garrisoned by the King during
the Civil War, but surrendered in 1645 to the Parliamentarians. The
castle was divided into four great courts, and a number of round
towers defended the exterior walls, while a deep ditch upon the
land side, now used as a public resort, completed the defences.

~The Church of St. Mary~ is built near the river, and is coeval with the
castle. A priory stood here in the time of King Stephen, and the nave
of the present church is the nave of the priory chapel. The larger
part of the building is Norman, while the western doorway is an
exceptionally fine example of the period. The tombs of Somerset,
second Earl of Worcester, and Elizabeth, his Countess, are worthy of
special notice.

The road to Tintern gives at first a view of the remains of an ancient
bridge opposite Chepstow Castle, which, when in use, rose and fell
with the tide. Piercefield Park lies upon the right hand, with an
early camp amongst the trees. At St. Arvans the road bears to the
right, and a number of S turns are met. Near here is the well-known
'Lovers' Leap.' Moss Cottage stands by the road farther on, with the
Windcliff, famous for its glorious view of the Wye, above it. Upon the
opposite bank of the river, and beyond the railway, is a lengthy
section of Offa's Dyke, and probably a glimpse may be obtained from
the road of the Devil's Pulpit.


TINTERN ABBEY

Tintern Abbey occupies a beautiful site upon one of the loveliest
rivers in England, and the ruins have been claimed by many as the most
picturesque in existence; but many other roofless abbey churches,
placed in the same exquisite surroundings, would appear to equal
advantage, and one is inclined to attribute Tintern's fame to its
scenery rather than to its architecture. The abbey owes much to Roger
Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, and a descendant of the De Clares, who,
according to the records, provided for extensive building in the
middle of the thirteenth century; but much of the architecture,
especially that in the south wall of the chapter-house, speaks of an
earlier date. The cloisters are late Perpendicular (1469), and were
undoubtedly of great magnificence. The abbey was dissolved in 1537,
and since then the buildings have gradually fallen into decay. The
structural parts which may be recognized are: the church, with north
and south transepts; cloisters, on the north side of the nave;
sacristy and monks' library, adjoining the north wall of the north
transept; chapter-house and monks' parlour, monks' dayroom, parlour,
refectory and almoner's room, all to the north; together with the
kitchen, buttery, lavatory, and other small rooms.

The road from Tintern accompanies the Wye in conjunction with the
railway-line, and beautiful hanging woods, broken up with grey cliffs,
form lovely backgrounds to every view.

~Tintern Parva~ is a small hamlet with a church erected in the Early
English period, but not of great interest. At Bigsweir Bridge the
river is crossed and the turning to the left taken. Offa's Dyke now
lies upon the right hand.

~Redbrook~ is a village placed in a small combe of great beauty. The
church, with its Perpendicular tower, is worth seeing. The monuments
to John Joce and his wife, _temp._ Edward III., are preserved there,
together with two priests and a brass showing a 'free miner.'


MONMOUTH

The situation of Monmouth is an ideal one, as it is surrounded by
hills, through which the Wye, the Monnow, and the Trothy flow. It was
at one time fortified by a surrounding wall pierced by four gates; but
the Monnow, or Western Gate, dating from 1270, is regarded by some
writers as a toll-gate rather than one of those belonging to the wall.
This gate stands upon the Monnow Bridge, and is a strikingly
picturesque feature of the town. Of the Roman origin of Monmouth (the
_Blestium_ of Antoninus) there are at present no traces, but it was a
fortified station as early as the Saxon period.

~The Church of St. Mary~ was rebuilt from the designs of Street in 1881,
with the exception of the tower and the tall and very slender spire.
Near it, in Priory Street, is a building called 'Geoffrey's Study,'
possessing a Perpendicular window corbelled out on brackets. It cannot
possibly have been used by Geoffrey of Monmouth, after whom it is
named, as he died in 1154. The building, or, more correctly, the old
portion of it, is a remnant of the domestic buildings of the
Benedictine Priory.

~St. Thomas's Church~, in Overmonnow, contains some Norman architecture.
Near the door of the church stands an elaborate cross.

~The Shire Hall~, built in 1724, has a solemn façade bearing in the
centre a niche filled with a metal statue of Henry V., the hero of
Agincourt. One cannot be long in Monmouth without being reminded of
Harry of that ilk, for the square in front of the Shire Hall, formerly
the bull-ring, is now called Agincourt Square. Many quaint old houses
and inns still exist in the town, the Robin Hood in Monnow Street and
the Queen's Head in Wyebridge Street being good examples of the
picturesque hostelry, so attractive after journeying for many miles in
Wales, where every town is uniformly dreary in its architecture.
Monmouth Castle stood on a raised site close to the church. It was a
ruin at the beginning of the seventeenth century, and where the keep
stood there is a house of that period. There are still, however, some
sections of walls, and one window of the great hall survives.

       *       *       *       *       *

On leaving Monmouth by the Ross Road, the little parish church of
~Dixton~ is soon encountered, and farther on the beautiful level height
called King Arthur's Plain is seen across the river. At times it
presents the appearance of towers belonging to a castle.

     (It is advisable not to take cars down the road marked 'To
     Symond's Yat and the Hotel,' between Kerne Bridge and
     Whitchurch, as it is very narrow and rough. The road from
     Whitchurch is better.)

~Symond's Yat~ is a rock which towers up to 800 feet above the surface
of the river. The ascent is quite easy, and from the upper part a
magnificent view is to be obtained. The scenery at this part of the
Wye is of quite exceptional beauty. Between the road and Symond's Yat
two hills--the Great and Little Dowards--occur. Upon the top of the
latter is a fine British camp, reputed to have once been occupied by
Caractacus.

~Whitchurch~ is a pretty little village possessing an Early English
church dedicated to St. Dubricius, Archbishop of Caerleon in the sixth
century. The remains of a stone cross have been restored. After
leaving Whitchurch, the roads become somewhat confusing, and care
should be taken at the turns. At the foot of the bridge carrying the
main road over the river stands Flanesford Priory, which was erected
in 1347. From Kerne Bridge a magnificent prospect of the Wye is
obtained.

~Goodrich Castle~ was an early residence of the Earls of Shrewsbury (the
Talbots) and there is little doubt that the ruins now seen upon these
rocky heights are all that is left of one of the first castles built
in England, dating well back into the Saxon period. The keep was built
in the time of Stephen, and it will be noticed that no windows look
away from the castle. In the Civil War it was taken by the
Parliamentarians, with the inevitable result. It is a noble and
imposing ruin, and a journey up the Wye Valley should not omit a visit
to Goodrich Castle.

~Goodrich Court~ lies half a mile north of the castle. It was built in
the early part of the last century by Sir Samuel Meyrick, the
well-known authority upon, and collector of, ancient arms and armour,
and also the author of valuable works upon the same subject. The fine
collection was sold some time since, and the house purchased in 1870
by Mr. George Moffatt.

~Goodrich Church~ stands in the little village of that name near the
Court, and should be visited, as the stained-glass windows are good.
The ancestors of Dean Swift resided in the parish, and one of them was
the Vicar and a notable Royalist.

The main road to Ross now leaves the Wye, but in order to see Wilton
Castle, that passing near the river should be taken.

~Wilton Castle~ was built soon after the Norman Conquest. It stands near
the river upon ground which is not elevated, and was erected to
protect the Welsh marches. It has been held by various families--the
Longchamps, the De Greys, and that of Chandos. It suffered from the
Parliamentary army in 1645. The remains consist of the outer walls
only. A footpath will be found running between the walls and the
river.

Wilton Bridge is a well-known landmark near Ross. It was built in the
reign of Elizabeth, and consists of six arches. One of them--that near
Wilton--is more recent than the others, having been rebuilt since its
destruction by the Roundheads during the Civil War.


ROSS,

a picturesque little town with the steepest of streets, is perched
upon uneven rocky ground high above the left bank of the Wye, and is
surrounded by hills on three sides. It was a town at the time of
Domesday.

~The Market Hall~ stands prominently in the centre of the town, and its
quaintness adds much to the attractiveness of the place. It was built
in the time of Charles II., and the upper part is now used for the
County Court and Petty Sessions. On the exterior of the south wall one
notices a curious carving of the letters F and C, with a heart,
reputed to be 'faithful to Charles in heart.' The 'Man of Ross,' who
was famed for his good deeds, and is alluded to by Pope, lived
opposite the Market Hall. The lower part of the house is now a
stationer's shop. The good man's name was John Kyrle, and his
portrait, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, can be seen in the upper room of the
Market Hall, together with his will and an autograph letter, dated
1695.

  [Illustration: TINTERN ABBEY.
   Showing the beautiful reach of the Wye which flows between steep
   wooded scarps.]

~The Church~ stands on higher ground than the rest of the town, on the
south-west side. It is chiefly Early English, and has a nave with
aisles, chancel, and three chapels. One of the chapels on the south
side has a parvise over it. Probably the feature which the average
visitor finds most interesting is the presence of two elm-trees
growing out of the wall inside the church. Both saplings are now dead,
but some creepers running over them afford sufficient foliage to
simulate vitality.

There is an Easter sepulchre in the chancel, and a tablet opposite the
organ contains sage reflections upon man's life and destiny. Of the
monuments remaining in the church, one, dated 1637, of a knight and
lady, is probably one of the most perfect memorials of contemporary
costume to be found in any church. The 'Man of Ross,' who follows the
visitor wherever he goes in this town, lies interred under a flat
slab, and against the wall is preserved a splendid marble monument to
his memory, erected in 1766 by a relative. A door leading to the
vanished rood-loft is on the north side of the chancel arch. The loft
apparently contained a piscina similar to Eastbourne Old Church.

~Of Ross Castle~ but little remains at the present time to give an idea
of its former importance and extent. A tower, which may be entered,
stands near the church, and in the High Street another portion is
seen. From the first-mentioned there is a beautiful view, including
Symond's Yat, the Great and Little Dowards, with a fine range of hills
upon the horizon, and a splendid loop of the Wye lying at one's feet,
with Wilton Castle and the bridge in the foreground. Ross is in many
ways a capital centre for exploring the Wye Valley.

       *       *       *       *       *

The road between Ross and Gloucester for about half the distance lies
in a picturesque piece of country on the northern confines of the
Forest of Dean, chiefly covered with coppices, grown for the sale of
the bark, the manufacture of charcoal, and the distillation of
wood-spirit. It is one of the wildest portions of Gloucestershire.

~Weston-under-Penyard~ is a small village near the ruins of ~Penyard
Castle~ and the conspicuous hill of that name. The church was restored
in 1870, and is not of great interest. Near this village is the site
of the ancient _Ariconium_. The rise to Lea affords a view of
considerable interest backwards, extending as far as Graig Serrerthin
in Monmouthshire.

~Lea Church~ stands beside the road, and possesses a remarkable font of
Indian workmanship inlaid with mosaic. The base represents an
elephant, from which springs a twisted, snake-like column supporting
the basin. Nearly two miles to the south of the road lies the village
of Mitcheldean. The Early English spire of the church is occasionally
seen through the trees, as it stands upon high ground.

A number of sharp turns now occur, and the rise to Dursley Cross is a
steady one. The road is good, and a splendid view may be obtained from
the summit, which is 500 feet above sea-level. A long descent
eventually leads to Huntley, lying upon the lowlands which surround
Gloucester. After crossing the Severn, the ruins of ~Llanthony Abbey~
can be seen to the south. The whole of this comparatively level
country is of the most beautiful description, covered with English
homesteads nestling among orchards, which are quite exquisite in
spring-time.


  [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 9--GLOUCESTER.]

GLOUCESTER

~Gloucester~, the _Glevum_ of the Romans and the _Glow Ceaster_ of the
Saxons, lies in the centre of a broad valley, and possesses a history
of no mean order. The Saxon kings made the place their residence, and
in 681 founded a nunnery, which subsequently became a monastery and
the nucleus of the present cathedral. Parliaments have been summoned
in this city, and its connection with the Empress Matilda in the time
of Stephen is well known. In the Civil War, Gloucester was on the side
of the Parliament, and resisted a Royalist army in 1643--a regrettable
fact, to which must be attributed the demolition of the city walls at
the Restoration.

~The Cathedral~ has dignified surroundings, and velvety turf runs up to
the weather-stained masonry. The most prominent architecture to arrest
the eye is the Perpendicular, of which, from the exterior, the
cathedral appears mainly to consist, although Norman, Early English,
and Decorated are all represented. The Perpendicular south porch is
richly decorated, and possesses a parvise. Upon entering, the enormous
Norman columns of the nave, standing closely together and towering
upwards, at once fix the attention. The semicircular arches upon them
appear small when compared with other cathedrals, while the triforium
and clerestory are dwarfed and rendered comparatively unimportant. The
zigzag and chevron work in the bays is of excellent character. The
choir is pure Perpendicular and probably unsurpassed, and the glass in
the large window is old and a grand example of medieval work. The bold
and original idea of ornamenting comparatively plain Norman work with
the delicate beauty of the Perpendicular has been carried out to the
fullest perfection. The vaulting of the roof should be especially
noted. The monument on the north of the choir, of Osric, King of
Mercia, 729, was probably made about 1520. Next to it is the splendid
monument of the unhappy Edward II., whose wasted career was terminated
at Berkeley Castle, where he was murdered in 1377. Above the
altar-tomb is a beautifully sculptured effigy of the King in
alabaster, resting under a gorgeously elaborate canopy. It is
interesting to remember that this tomb--one of the finest of the royal
monuments in England--was put up to a vain and worthless King by his
son and successor, whose reign helped to make the country prosperous,
while the man whose memory is perpetuated in richly carved alabaster
allowed his father (Edward I.), a great and courageous King, to rest
under the five plain slabs of marble to be seen in Westminster Abbey.
The recumbent effigy of Abbot Parker, last Abbot of Gloucester, should
be noticed. The chantry, however, is a cenotaph.

~The North and South Transepts~ are Norman, enriched with Perpendicular
work. From these points the flying arches, added to relieve the strain
on the piers supporting the central tower arches, are features of
grace and beauty. The north and south choir aisles each possess a
side-chapel, in one of which Robert, Duke of Normandy, lies. He died
in 1134 in Cardiff Castle, after an imprisonment of twenty-six years.
~The Lady Chapel~ is of magnificent Perpendicular work. There are
chapels also leading from the choir triforium, superimposed upon those
below. ~The Crypt~ is Early Norman work. ~The Cloisters~ are the finest
in England, the roof being vaulted with fan-tracery, said to be the
earliest example. In the north walk of the cloisters is the lavatory,
with a long trough at which the monks washed, still in a perfect
state, while in the wall opposite is a place for the towels. In the
south walk are twenty recesses where the monks studied or wrote. The
whole of the windows in these cloisters are filled with stained glass.
~The Chapter-house~ is of plain Norman work, with the exception of one
small portion. By its side is the abbot's cloister, over which is the
chapter library, containing some manuscripts of great value.

  [Map: PLAN OF GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL.

   _Monuments._

     1.  Dr. Jenner.
     2.  Alderman Jones.
     3.  Abbot Seabroke.
     4.  Brydges.
     5.  Sarah Morley (by Flaxman).
     6.  Alderman Machen.
     7.  Bower.
     8.  Alderman Blackleech.
     9.  Abbot Foliot.
     10. Osric.
     11. Edward II.
     12. Bishop Parker.
     13. Courtehouse.
     14. Bishop Godfrey.
     15. Thomas Fitzwilliams.

   _Parts of Building._

     A. West door.
     B. South porch.
     C. Monks' door to Cloisters.
     D. Abbot's door to Cloisters.
     E. Reliquary.
     F. Chapel.
     G. Doorway to Crypt.
     H. Chapel of St. Andrew.
     I. Sedilia.
     K. Chapel of Duke of Normandy.
     L. Abbot Hanley's Chantry.
     M. Abbot Farley's Chantry.
     N. Chapel.
     O. Lavatory.
     P. Passage to Cloisters.
     Q. Slype and Sacristy.]

The cathedral has a number of interesting ruins on the northern side.
These include the remains of a Dominican monastery, founded in the
ninth century and rebuilt in 1115, of which some arches and pillars
remain. There are other buildings partially adapted for modern
purposes.

Gloucester also possesses some churches of considerable interest, such
as ~St. Mary de Lode~, said to be the oldest in the city, with the
Norman chancel and tower of the original building. In the churchyard
stands a monument to Bishop Hooper, burnt alive on the spot in 1555.
~St. Mary de Crypt~ is of Early English workmanship, and derives its
name from two large crypts beneath it. It stands in Southgate Street,
and has a beautiful and lofty tower. ~St. Michael the Cross~ was rebuilt
in 1815, but incorporates original Decorated work. It is said to have
a connection with the ancient Abbey of St. Peter. The curfew bell is
still rung from the tower every evening. ~St. Nicholas~, in Westgate
Street, also contains Norman and Early English work.

One of the greatest charms of Gloucester lies in the multiplicity of
houses to be found which range in date from the fourteenth to the
seventeenth century, and a ramble through the streets will disclose
many besides those seen with a hurried glance. The New Inn, for
example, despite its unpromising name, possesses a courtyard with
surrounding gallery eminently medieval in every respect, and the
feeling is not lessened by a descent into the adjoining vaults. It was
built in 1450 by John Twining, a monk, for the accommodation of
pilgrims to the shrine of Edward II. It may be of interest to note
that the wood employed is chestnut. A fine old timbered house stands
in Northgate Street, but has been refronted. A passage, however,
affords a view at the side. There are many other examples of old
domestic architecture to be found at the junctions of the four
principal streets in the centre of the town, where, it may be
mentioned, the Town Hall stands upon the site of the ancient Courts of
Justice.

       *       *       *       *       *

In selecting a motoring centre in this part of England, the writer has
found Gloucester to be a very suitable one in every way. The Bell and
County Hotel has a large garage, and combines in a very exceptional
manner the charm of the old-fashioned English hostelry with the needs
of the present day. Apart from the long routes described in these
pages, there are many short runs from Gloucester to pretty villages in
the Cotswolds and to historic spots, such as Berkeley Castle,
Llanthony Abbey, Deerhurst Priory, and a dozen other places, which a
local handbook will point out. Nearly all the important places in the
neighbourhood are described in this book.




LOOP No. 6

=FIRST PORTION=: HEREFORD TO SHREWSBURY--=SECOND PORTION=: SHREWSBURY
TO WORCESTER, LEDBURY, AND HEREFORD

HEREFORD TO SHREWSBURY, 54¾ MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                             Miles.
     =Hereford= to Moreton-on-Lug                4
     =Moreton-on-Lug= to Bodenham Moor           3¾
     =Bodenham Moor= to Leominster               7
     =Leominster= to Wooferton                   7¼
     =Wooferton= to Ludlow                       4
     =Ludlow= to Craven Arms                     7¾
     =Craven Arms= to Church Stretton            7¾
     =Church Stretton= to Dorrington             6½
     =Dorrington= to Shrewsbury                  6¾


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

To =Shrewsbury= a first-class road; a hill of 1 in 12 at =Ludlow= and
1 in 15 at =Bodenham Hill=.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Sutton Walls.=--Remains of Offa's castle.

=Bodenham.=--A village with a large and handsome church.

=Hampton Court.=--A house dating from the time of Henry IV.

=Leominster.=--A very picturesque town; the Town Hall; the church,
with the nave of a former Priory; the Butter Cross.

=Ludlow.=--An old and very interesting town; the church, one of the
finest in England; the Guildhall; an excellent museum; Richard's
Castle near the town.

=Stokesay Castle.=--One of the most perfect fortified houses of the
thirteenth century in the kingdom; strikingly picturesque.

=Craven Arms.=--The camp of Caer Caradoc; the Long Mynd district;
extremely picturesque hills of exceptional interest to geologists.

=Church Stretton.=--A pretty village in charming surroundings of
wooded hills and valleys; Norman and Transitional cruciform church.


  [Map: LOOP 6 (FIRST PORTION). HEREFORD TO CHURCH STRETTON.
   _Continued on p. 230._]

(_For description and plan of_ ~Hereford~, _see pp. 176-179_.)

The road to Leominster passes due north out of Hereford by, or rather
through, the racecourse, and directly afterwards ~Holmer Church~ is seen
upon the left side of the road. It belongs to Early English times, and
has a detached tower.

~Moreton-on-Lug~ has a church which has recently been restored, but it
contains some altar-tombs of the Dauncer family. From this point
onwards Robin Hood's Butts and the Sugar Loaf Hills become prominent
objects in the landscape on the left, their rugged summits of
sandstone resisting the action of the weather better than the soft
marls through which they protrude.

~Sutton Walls~ lie to the right upon a wooded hill, and are of great
historical interest. Offa, king of Mercia, had a palace there, and to
it Ethelbert, king of the East Angles, was invited, the ostensible
object being his marriage to the daughter of the Mercian king. The
young prince was foully murdered by the connivance of Quendrida,
Offa's queen, and East Anglia annexed to Mercia in A.D. 782. In
expiation of this deed Offa founded the great monastery at St. Albans.
There is a large encampment upon the hill, with four entrances,
apparently of Roman origin, and containing an area of about thirty
acres.

Entering a low-lying district, upon which stands Wellington Marsh,
~Marden Church~ is seen upon the right, the place of Ethelbert's first
interment, the original building having been erected by Offa.
~Wellington Church~, lying to the left of the road, is chiefly of modern
construction. Two miles farther on a bifurcation occurs, and the road
to the right may be taken if one wishes to avoid the rather steep way
leading over Dinmore Hill. ~Bodenham~ is the next village on the route.
It possesses a large church of the Early English and Decorated
Periods, containing an alabaster tomb of Sir Walter Devereux, 1401. In
the village will be seen the remains of a large cross and a well. A
sharp turn to the left at England's Gate leads back in a few miles to
the junction with the main road near ~Hope-under-Dinmore~, crossing the
River Lug just before the junction. Hope Church, standing on the
hill-side, contains many tablets to the Coningsby family. About two
miles to the right of Ford lies Risbury Camp, of an oval form, with
deep ditches surrounding it, and containing an area of about eight
acres. ~Hampton Court~ was built by Sir Roland Lenthall in the time of
Henry IV., and much enlarged by ransoms subsequently obtained from
prisoners at the Battle of Agincourt. It was once the home of the Earl
of Coningsby. Mr. J. H. Arkwright, a descendant of Richard Arkwright,
is now the owner. The Court has been partially rebuilt.


LEOMINSTER

This town presents an exceedingly picturesque aspect, a number of
medieval or Renaissance buildings having survived. It was a place of
importance in the days of the Heptarchy, and a monastery was
instituted by Merewald, king of the West Mercians, in the seventh
century, which, however, disappeared subsequently in the Danish
invasions. A residence of the Saxon kings, together with a stronghold,
was also raised here, only to be destroyed in a Welsh raid in 1088. In
1125 Henry I. established a Benedictine cell under the rule of Reading
Priory, and the buildings now form part of the workhouse!

~The Church~ includes examples of almost every style of architecture.
The nave is Norman, and originally formed part of the Priory Church
standing upon this site. The monuments are very numerous, and some of
the finest window tracery in any ecclesiastical building in the
British Isles exists here. A fire in the eastern parts of the church
in 1699 led to a restoration in a very debased style. The Butter Cross
is an object of interest, and in the Bargates are Georgian almshouses
dating back to 1736. They have an effigy with an inscription
containing an admonition against the exercise of charity without
discrimination. The road to Ludlow lies upon the eastern side of the
railway, and a sharp turn to the right occurs in the town. ~Ivington
Camp~ is a British earthwork, but was considerably strengthened by Owen
Glendower when he retreated from Leominster and was vigorously pursued
by Prince Henry. One mile to the right lies Eaton Hall, now a
farmhouse. It was erected in the time of Henry V., and was once
occupied by the old family of Hakluyt.[1]

~Eye~ lies to the left of the road, and has a church with some fine
alabaster monuments in it--one figure with the collar of SS.
Berrington Hall and Park, the seat of Lord Rodney, are close by. The
country passed through for some miles past is a cider district, and
numerous orchards can be seen on every side. Near Woofferton is a fine
open stretch of country, in which the highlands upon the left, wooded
to their summits, form a welcome break. ~Richard's Castle~, of the motte
and bailey type, lies under the hills. It was erected in the reign of
Edward the Confessor, and stands upon a mound 60 feet in height, with
some peculiar earthworks adjoining. It is a matter for remark that
this stronghold was erected and occupied by a Norman, Richard, the son
of Scrop, _before_ the Conquest, and thus is one of a little group of
castles of peculiar interest. An old church at the town of Richard's
Castle has a detached belfry.


LUDLOW

This is an ancient British town lying in an amphitheatre of high
ground, but no reliable history relating to the place is extant until
after the Conquest, when Roger de Montgomery founded the ~Castle~, which
for a considerable time was the residence of Royalty, more
particularly of Edward IV. and his children. Ludlow was also the seat
of the Grand Council entrusted with the jurisdiction of the Marches.
The keep of the castle was erected between 1086 and 1096. In the Civil
War the castle surrendered to the Parliamentary forces in 1646, at the
same time as Bridgnorth. The appearance of the dismantled fortress on
an eminence above the River Teme is imposing and impressive, as the
Norman towers and bastions, together with a considerable portion of
the curtain walls, are still standing.

~The Church~ stands upon elevated ground near the castle, and is of
Decorated Gothic, dating from the time of Edward III., although
originally built in the twelfth century. It is dedicated to St.
Lawrence, and is a cruciform building with a lofty tower, and one of
the finest churches in England. There is also a guildhall, a
town-hall, and the museum, chiefly confined to natural history, has a
grand collection of Silurian fossils. A very fine timbered house, the
Lane Asylum, dates from 1672.

From the district round Bromfield a fine view is obtained of Clee
Hill lying to the right, with Titterstone Camp, 1,749 feet above the
sea, on it. Farther to the north is Brown Clee Hill, 1,792 feet high,
with Corne Dale to the left. Near Onibury the route is well wooded,
and the valley becomes contracted as the road leads through a break in
Wenlock Edge. Upon the right Norton Camp, a horseshoe-shaped
entrenchment, occupies the summit of a knoll.


STOKESAY CASTLE

is reached just before coming to Craven Arms Station. It is, without
exaggeration, one of the most picturesque and also one of the earliest
fortified houses in the kingdom. From almost any point of view it
thrills the artist, the architect, the archæologist, and the ordinary
visitor who has any capacity to read sermons in stones. The very name
'Stokesay' tells the story of Norman owner superseding Saxon, the Says
or Sayes being descendants of Picot de Sai, who came over with the
Conqueror, a similar instance being found in Stoke d'Abernon in
Surrey, where the Saxon 'Stoke' is again tacked on to the name of the
new Norman owner. The gatehouse of the castle, although a highly
picturesque timber-framed building of Elizabethan times, with a
carving of Adam and Eve and the Serpent over the door, is not the
most interesting feature, for the rest of the building belongs to the
thirteenth century, and is quite one of the best examples of a
fortified house of the Early English period. The moat is now dry, but
otherwise one can see in Stokesay the type of house close to the Welsh
Marches which was occupied by a lesser feudal lord in the days when
Wales was still the home of unconquered tribesmen, who might at any
time make a sudden descent into English territory. Facing the gateway
is the hall, 51 feet by 31 feet (internal measurements), lighted with
four tall lancet windows looking on to the moat on the west side. The
open timber roof is blackened with smoke, for there was no fireplace,
and the smoke from the central brazier escaped through an outlet in
the roof. The builder of this hall is given by the late Mr. Augustus
Hare as John de Verdun, who died in 1279, while the curious and
picturesque polygonal tower at the south corner was no doubt built by
Verdun's successor, that Lawrence de Ludlow who received permission
from Edward I. to fortify his house of Stokesay. It would be a
pleasant task to describe every room and every architectural detail of
this fascinating castle, but space unfortunately does not permit.

~The Church~ at Stokesay was rebuilt after the Civil War. Beautiful
views of the Long Mynd, of Wenlock Edge, and the ridge lying between
them, now open up. The church at the little village of ~Wistanstow~ has
been restored, and during the alterations a carved oak roof of the
Perpendicular period came to light.


CHURCH STRETTON

is a village in an exceedingly pleasant situation, with the Long Mynd
ridge of hills to the west, and with Hope Bowdler, Caer Caradoc, and
the Lawley nearly opposite. The name Stretton, like Streatham,
indicates the presence of a Roman road--one of those leading
southwards from the great Roman city of _Uriconium_.

The interesting cruciform church has a Norman nave with Transitional
central tower and transepts. Several Perpendicular windows have been
inserted. Mr. Hare mentions a stone in the churchyard, near the
sundial, bearing this inscription to Ann Cook, who died in 1814:

     'On a Thursday she was born,
     On a Thursday made a bride,
     On a Thursday broke her leg,
     And on a Thursday died.'

'Hesba Stretton,' the novelist, took her pen-name from this village,
where she lived for many years.

Near Church Stretton the site of Brockhurst Castle is passed over.
Bodbury Ring, to the left beyond Church Stretton, is said to have been
occupied by Ostorius Scapula previous to his great battle with
Caractacus. The site of the engagement is on the right, and a mile
farther on the road leads under Caer Caradoc Hill, 1,506 feet high,
with a perfect camp, vallum, and ditches upon the summit, wherein
Caradoc entrenched himself previous to the fight. The district under
the Long Mynd is extremely picturesque, with deep gullies and cross
valleys running into the great ridge, whose elevation in places
reaches to 1,600 feet. It is a paradise for geologists, deposits
emerging from underneath the Silurian which are of more than ordinary
interest. The Caradoc Range is an old volcanic outburst. The line of
the Roman road traversing the valley already mentioned may be noted
running parallel with the railway.

(_For description and plan of ~Shrewsbury~, see pp. 76-79._)

FOOTNOTE:

[Footnote 1: A Welsh family, of whom Richard Hakluyt (1552?-1616), the
famous geographer, is the best known.]




LOOP No. 6--SECOND PORTION

SHREWSBURY TO HEREFORD, 81¼ MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                               Miles.
     =Shrewsbury= to Buildwas                     11¾
     =Buildwas= to Ironbridge                      2
     =Ironbridge= to Bridgnorth                    7¾
     =Bridgnorth= to Birdsgreen                    7
     =Birdsgreen= to Kidderminster                 7¼
     =Kidderminster= to Worcester                 14½
     =Worcester= to Malvern                        8¼
     =Malvern= to Ledbury                          8
     =Ledbury= to Hereford                        14¾


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

=Shrewsbury to Worcester.=--A few hills only to Bridgnorth; thence to
Kidderminster some steep hills, but otherwise an excellent road. One
of the hills is 1 in 12 after Shatterford; after that good.

=Worcester to Hereford.=--To Malvern splendid; between Malvern and
Ledbury ascent 1 in 9, descent 1 in 11 in crossing the Malvern Hills,
then very good road to Hereford, with only trifling hills.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Buildwas Abbey.=--A beautiful ruin.

=Bridgnorth.=--A picturesque town, with a church and the remains of a
castle; the bridge.

=Kidderminster.=--A town famed for its manufacture of carpets; church,
Perpendicular.

=Stourport.=--An uninteresting town.

=Ombersley.=--A picturesque village; The Court, the residence of Lord
Sandys.

=Worcester.=--A busy city; the cathedral and tomb of King John; the
Edgar Tower; the Guildhall; the famous porcelain works.

=Great Malvern.=--A finely-situated watering-place; the abbey gateway;
a Norman church, originally a priory church.

=Ledbury.=--Picturesque market town, with old market hall and several
quaint houses; church, Norman, Early English, and Perpendicular; tower
detached.

=Hereford.=--(See p. 176.)


  [Map: LOOP 6. (NORTHERN PART INCLUDING SHREWSBURY).
   _Continued on p. 239._]

The route from Shrewsbury follows that to _Uriconium_ for nearly a
mile, when a bifurcation occurs, and the road to the right is chosen,
passing through Sutton and Cound. The church at the latter place is
chiefly of Early English architecture; it contains a carved early
Norman font of great interest. The Wrekin, with Heaven's Gate Camp
upon it, is a prominent feature in the distance, while the Severn
indulges in sinuous windings by the side of the road. ~Buildwas Abbey~
is quite close to the road; it presents a beautiful aspect, and is
one of the finest ruins in the county. The abbey was founded by Roger
de Clinton, Bishop of Chester, in 1135, for Cistercians. Parts of it
still remain roofed. Coalbrookdale is historically interesting as the
cradle of the iron trade. It sprang into prominence when the Sussex
ironfields had to be abandoned, owing to the shrinkage of the forests
there. In 1700 members of the Darby family experimented upon iron ore
smelted with coal and coke, and since then it has been a centre of the
iron industry.

~Ironbridge~ contains nothing of any particular interest. It is a town
of foundries, forges, and furnaces, while hideous tiers of dirty
cottages cluster on the steep hill-side. In the town is the iron
bridge from which the place gains its name; it is a bridge of a single
span, stretching 120 feet, and is the first on record. Its presence is
due to the energy of Abraham Darby, of the Coalbrookdale Works, in
1779. From Ironbridge the road trends away from the Severn, passing
through a well-wooded country, and eventually reaches


BRIDGNORTH

This picturesque town is reputed to have been founded by a daughter of
Alfred the Great, and was fortified with walls and a castle by Robert
de Belesme, Earl of Shrewsbury. Henry I. besieged it in 1102, and in
the time of Henry II. it was dismantled. The walls suffered the same
fate at the hands of the Parliamentary forces after a long siege in
1646. The upper town is built upon a steep rocky plateau, which rises
abruptly from the river, crowned by the remains of the old castle,
which deviate remarkably from the vertical. A bridge of fine design
joins the upper to the lower town.

~At Quatford~ a fortress was built by Ethelfleda, and subsequently a
college by the wife of Roger de Montgomery, from a romantic
remembrance of having first met her husband upon that spot. Slight
indications of a keep still remain upon a rock overlooking the Severn.
The church has the chancel arch and font of the Norman period, and the
remainder is Decorated work of the fourteenth century.

The Forest of Morfe at one time covered the whole of this district.
Dudmaston Castle is passed immediately before Quatt is reached, and
then an undulating run eventually leads to


KIDDERMINSTER

The name of the town means the 'minster on the brow of the hill.' From
the time of William the Conqueror down to _c._ 1135 it was a manor in
possession of the Crown.

~The Church.~--This is dedicated to St. Mary, and is chiefly of the
Perpendicular period. It contains a number of ancient monuments, and
has recently undergone a restoration. The town is celebrated for its
manufacture of carpets; a peculiar property of the River Stour is
reputed to add to the brilliancy of the colouring. Dyeing,
worsted-spinning, together with iron manufactures, are carried on in
the town.

On leaving Kidderminster the road lies almost due south to ~Stourport~,
a rather uninteresting town, possessing, however, an iron bridge over
the Severn. The church is of modern construction.

~Ombersley~ is a village of uncommonly neat appearance, with many
timbered houses effectively rendered in black and white. The Court was
erected in the time of Queen Anne, and is the country residence of
Lord Sandys. The church in the village is new.


  [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 8--WORCESTER.]

WORCESTER

is sheltered by the Malvern Hills on the south-west, and by other
picturesque eminences. A Roman road originally traversed the city, and
as early as the year 680 Worcester was surrounded by lofty walls and
fortifications, which, by existing records, appear to have compared
favourably with other towns.

~The Cathedral.~--(_Open on weekdays 9.30 to 6, but closed at 5.30
between October and March 31 [or dusk]. 6d. each charged for entering
the Choir, Lady Chapel, and other special portions._) When Mercia
became an independent kingdom a church was raised, and subsequently
another built by Oswald in the tenth century a little north-east of
the present building. Wulfstan found Oswald's church in ruins, the
handiwork of Hardicanute's soldiers. He began a new cathedral in 1084,
but two fires subsequently ruined it. Re-erected, it was reconsecrated
in 1218. The cathedral suffered but little at the Reformation, but
very much during the Civil War. It is not a grand building so far as
massiveness is concerned, but possesses a variety of styles which
harmonize in a remarkable degree, and a sense of unity pervades the
whole building. The tower is a beautiful specimen of Perpendicular
work, and has recently been thoroughly renovated. The chief objects of
interest in the interior are the stalls, with their miserere seats,
dating from 1397, formerly in Worcester Priory; the cloisters,
chapterhouse, and remarkable Norman crypt, with King John's tomb in
the choir. There are picturesque remains of the old Guesten Hall, the
refectory and dormitory.

~The Edgar Tower~ stands near the entrance to the cathedral cloisters.
It was originally the entrance to Worcester Castle, but the monks
converted it into a monastery gateway.

~The Guildhall~ dates from 1721, and is an impressive building,
containing some objects of interest from the battlefield of Worcester.

~The Commandery.~--This is a hospital founded in 1085; the great
refectory and Guesten Hall, with beautiful roofs and stained glass,
should be seen.

There are a number of old timbered houses remaining in the city,
especially in Friar Street, near the city gaol, and in Lich Street. In
the Corn Market is King Charles's House, built 1577, in which Charles
II. took refuge in 1651 after the Battle of Worcester. It has the
inscription, 'Fear God; honour the King,' over the doorway. In the
Trinity, not far off, is an interesting Elizabethan house with an open
gallery. The Royal Porcelain Works, founded in 1751, are in Severn
Street, near the cathedral. (_Open 9.30 to 12.30, 2.15 to 5. Admission
6d._)


  [Map: LOOP 6 (PART OF SECOND PORTION). SHREWSBURY TO HEREFORD.
   _Continued from p. 230._
   _Continued on p: 241._]

GREAT MALVERN

Malvern is a watering-place, situated in a beautiful district on the
eastern slope of the hills of the same name, and is much frequented by
reason of its fine air, its healthy surroundings, and its mineral
springs. A Benedictine priory was founded here shortly after the
Conquest, and one of the buildings, the ~Abbey Gateway~, dating from
1083, still remains.

~The Church~ is of Norman work, with Perpendicular additions, dating
from the time of Henry VII.; it originally formed the Priory Church,
and was purchased by the inhabitants at the Dissolution, and made
parochial. The recumbent effigies in it are of considerable interest.

Between Malvern and Ledbury lie the Malvern Hills; in crossing them
one has to negotiate a hill of 1 in 11. One is reminded of Touraine in
the quantities of mistletoe growing on the trees as the quaint old
town of Ledbury is neared.


  [Map: LOOP 6 (LAST PORTION). LEDBURY TO HEREFORD.
   _Continued from p. 239._]

LEDBURY

The main street is full of charm in its possession of several old
houses and a market-house standing on chestnut pillars. The upper
portion has been much restored, but the wooden supports are those of
the building believed to have been put up by John Abell in Elizabethan
times.

The most notable feature of the church is the detached Early English
tower, now crowned with a modern spire. Of the original Norman church
the western doorway remains in the Perpendicular nave. Besides the
tombs of the Biddulphs the stained glass in the north chapel should be
examined. These windows are of the Decorated period, and the chapel is
dedicated to the local St. Catherine, who lived at the beginning of
the fourteenth century. During the Civil War there was a hot fight in
Ledbury in the year 1645 between Prince Rupert and a body of
Roundheads. Marks of bullets can be seen on the church doors and
elsewhere in the town.

(_For_ ~Hereford~, _see p. 176_.)




LOOP No. 7

GLOUCESTER TO BATH, MALMESBURY, EVESHAM, TEWKESBURY, AND GLOUCESTER,
153 MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                                   Miles.
     =Gloucester= to Stroud                           12¼
     =Stroud= to Nailsworth                            4¼
     =Nailsworth= to Old Sodbury                      13¼
     =Old Sodbury= to Bath                            11
     =Bath= to Chippenham                             13
     =Chippenham= to Malmesbury                       10
     =Malmesbury= to Minety                            7¼
     =Minety= to Cricklade                             4¾
     =Cricklade= to Highworth                          7½
     =Highworth= to Lechlade                           4½
     =Lechlade= to Burford                             8¾
     =Burford= to Shipton-under-Wychwood               4¼
     =Shipton= to Chipping Norton                      6¾
     =Chipping Norton= to Moreton-in-the-Marsh         8
     =Moreton= to Broadway                             8½
     =Broadway= to Evesham                             5¾
     =Evesham= to Tewkesbury                          13¼
     =Tewkesbury= to Gloucester                       10


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

=Gloucester to Nailsworth.=--The road is fairly level, with a good
surface.

=Nailsworth to Bath.=--The road climbs for the first 2 miles (1 in
15), and then is undulating along a ridge of downs until about 3 miles
from Bath, where the long descent is 1 in 15.

=Bath to Highworth.=--An excellent road, with a steep hill soon after
Cricklade (1 in 12), and an abrupt descent after Highworth (1 in 12).

The road becomes hilly near =Chipping Norton=, with a very stiff
descent at Fish Hill (1 in 11), after which the road is excellent all
the way to =Tewkesbury= and =Gloucester=.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Painswick.=--Exceptionally picturesque little Cotswold town. Fine
church and churchyard, with clipped yews; Painswick Court, a fine old
Tudor house near the church.

=Stroud.=--A small town with cloth manufactures. Town Hall of
fifteenth century; church modern, except tower.

=Nailsworth.=--A cloth manufacturing place scattered in the valley
south of Stroud.

=Bath.=--The famous Georgian watering-place. A large stone town. Roman
baths in splendid preservation; the Abbey Church, Perpendicular;
Pulteney Bridge lined with shops; good eighteenth-century houses.

=Bradford-on-Avon.=--An old village with a famous Saxon church. (On a
short loop from Bath. See Map.)

=Box.=--A small village near long tunnel on G.W.R. Church of various
periods.

=Corsham= (_just off the road to the right_).--An old village with
interesting Norman church. Corsham Court, partially Elizabethan house,
the seat of Lord Methuen.

=Chippenham.=--Old town on Avon with manufactures. Church spoiled by
restoration; Maud Heath's Causeway.

=Malmesbury.=--Picturesque old town on the Avon. Abbey Church
Trans-Norman; tower of old parish church; Elizabethan houses; fine
market cross; old almshouses.

=Cricklade.=--A pleasant little town on the uppermost windings of the
Thames. St. Sampson's Church, with fine Perpendicular tower; St.
Mary's, Norman; early crosses in both churchyards.

=Lechlade.=--Another little town on the Thames. Old bridge;
Perpendicular church.

=Shipton-under-Wychwood.=--Village with a fine church, close to
Wychwood Forest.

=Chipping Norton.=--Highest town in Oxfordshire; picturesque street.

=Moreton-in-the-Marsh.=--A pleasant little market town.

=Bourton-on-the-Hill.=--A very picturesque Cotswold village.

=Broadway.=--A beautifully-situated and strikingly attractive Cotswold
village. Many old houses, including manor-house of Abbots of Pershore
Abbey. Old church 1 mile from village, interesting.

=Evesham.=--A small town on Avon; picturesque. Booth Hall, Bell Tower,
and various remains of the extensive abbey. Churches of (1) St.
Lawrence, not very interesting; (2) All Saints, Early English and
later. Battle fought in 1265.

=Tewkesbury.=--Very picturesque old town on Avon and Severn. Abbey
Church, splendid Norman; many old timber-framed houses. Battle of
Tewkesbury, 1471.

=Deerhurst Priory= (_off road to west_).--Pre-Norman buildings lately
well restored.


  [Map: LOOP 7. GLOUCESTER TO BATH.]

  [Map: LOOP 7. GLOUCESTER TO BATH AND EVESHAM.]

The extensive loop described briefly in this chapter takes one to many
interesting towns in Gloucestershire and the neighbouring counties,
and as there is much to see, it is advisable to break the journey at
Bath, and possibly again at Broadway or Evesham, in order not to be
obliged to hurry through beautiful scenery and romantic towns.

Although the level road from Gloucester to Stroud by Hardwicke is to
be recommended to those who would avoid a long, stiff climb, the way
through the Cotswolds is so much more interesting and so vastly more
picturesque that it should by all means be taken if the hill is of no
consequence.

The easiest ascent of the face of the Cotswolds is by the road through
the village of Brookthorpe, descending into the Painswick valley near
the secluded and quite typical Cotswold hamlet of Pitchcombe.

A still more beautiful road goes through Sneedham's Green, near Upton
St. Leonards, and winds up a long steady ascent among beeches. This
road is well engineered, and the views from it, first over the Vale
of Severn and then into the Painswick and Sheepscombe valleys, are
full of exquisite charm at all times of the year.


PAINSWICK

is one of those little stone towns with that peculiarly foreign
flavour so frequently experienced in the Cotswolds. Perched on a steep
hill-side and dominated by the tall tower and spire of its stately
church, the place is the centre of the life of a lovely valley. Every
other house in the town is a picture by itself, and when grouped with
others and backed by the emeralds and blues of the opposite side of
the valley, the stranger can hardly be prevented from exclaiming aloud
as each corner brings some new composition before him.

In the centre of the town stands the fine church, with a unique
churchyard, wherein a wonderful array of richly carved altar-tombs of
delicate classic design are scattered in picturesque irregularity
under the sombre shade of rows of closely trimmed yews. The stems of
these trees are kept clear of twigs and branches, and the masses of
green are shaped into great round-topped cylindrical forms. Just below
the church, beyond a group of magnificent elms, stands Painswick
Court, a stone, many-gabled house of such reposeful dignity that one
seems to find in it as nearly as possible the ideal English
manor-house of modest proportions. The title 'Court' came to the
house, not in connection with the manor, but through a visit paid to
it by Charles I. in 1643. The King slept in the house, and issued a
proclamation 'given at our Court at Paynewicke.'

Whether one decides to go through Painswick or Pitchcombe, or even if
one keeps below the hills, all the roads meet at


STROUD

This is a hilly town abounding in very steep streets, and possessing,
as all Cotswold towns do, a number of good old stone houses of the
sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth centuries. It is, nevertheless,
a place without much appeal to the passing motorist, for the church
has been rebuilt in recent times, with the exception of the tower,
which is Early English. The Town Hall, formerly the market-house, was
built in the fifteenth century by John Throckmorton of Lypiatt.

Stroud still maintains its woollen industry, and thousands of people
are employed in the mills in the town and in the valley to the east.

Leaving Stroud for Bath, one ascends the valley towards ~Nailsworth~, a
busy locality, where the weaving of broadcloth is the chief industry.
There are also flock factories and workshops where beech--'the weed of
the oolite'--is used in making beds, gunstocks, and umbrella-sticks.

A little beyond Nailsworth the road comes out on the ridge of
wind-swept hills, and continues a slightly undulating course
southwards to Bath, a distance of over twenty miles, without a village
and scarcely a hamlet on the whole journey. There are wide views in
both directions, and some grand panoramas across the Severn.

After dropping down from the level of the downs, one turns to the
right and enters the ancient city of


BATH

This wealthy, picturesque, and still popular watering-place, is
described at some length in another volume of this series--the
Southern Section of England--and it must therefore be dealt with in
the briefest fashion here. The thermal springs attracted the Romans to
the spot, and of their city _Aquæ Solis_ there are probably very
considerable remains beneath the present city. ~The Baths~ themselves
have been excavated, and several feet below the street-level one can
now see the Roman tanks filled, as they were some sixteen centuries
ago, with the steaming waters which still bring many ailing folk to
the town. Besides the baths there is the ~Abbey Church~, a magnificent
example of late Perpendicular work, crowded with memorials to
distinguished visitors and residents of Bath, whose virtues and
achievements are not overlooked on the marble tablets.

[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 16--BATH.]

~Pulteney Bridge~, like the Ponte Vecchio, is lined with shops, but the
famous bridge at Florence quite eclipses this structure of a much
later and less artistic age. In walking through the streets of Bath
one cannot fail to be struck by several of the Georgian façades, whose
dignity and classic perfection reflect the formal manners of the
latter part of the eighteenth century, when Beau Nash drew admiring
and envious eyes upon his elaborately-attired person as he passed
along the stone-built streets of the great centre of smart society
when George was King.

       *       *       *       *       *

From Bath to Chippenham the road goes through Batheaston, and keeping
to the north side of the railway for a couple of miles, passes under
it to reach the village of ~Box~, which has given its name to one of the
longest tunnels on the Great Western Railway. It is one and
three-quarter miles in length, and cost more than half a million
pounds to build. Box village has a church belonging to the three great
periods of Gothic, with a Perpendicular tower.

Going to the left in the village, the road to Chippenham rises from
the valley of the By Brook, crosses the ridge of oolite and fuller's
earth pierced by the famous tunnel, and drops down to


CORSHAM

The little town lies chiefly to the right, towards the railway and
Corsham Court, Lord Methuen's stately Elizabethan house. It is quite
desirable to run through the place, returning to the Chippenham road
by the road that skirts the park, north of the church. There are some
old houses in the street, and among them one dating back as far as the
fifteenth century. Corsham Court contains a magnificent collection of
paintings, mostly brought here by Sir Paul Methuen, who was at one
time Ambassador to Madrid, and died in 1757.

The beautiful cruciform church was shorn of its central tower during
the restoration by Street, who built a new tower and spire in a rather
unusual position south of the south transept. The Norman nave and a
north door of the same period are the earliest portions of the
building, and the Methuen Chapel, built in 1879, is the most recent.

From Corsham the road falls continuously to


CHIPPENHAM,

an old manufacturing town on the Avon. As its name suggests, it has
been a market town from a very remote age. It was a place of
importance in Saxon times, and one or two events are recorded as
happening there before the year 878, when the Danes took the place and
made it their headquarters, while, with fire and sword, they spread
ruin and desolation over the neighbourhood. After Alfred reappeared
from his hiding-place in marsh-bordered Athelney to the south-west,
and gained his famous victory over the marauding Danes at Ethandune,
he regained possession of Chippenham, and gave it to his daughter
Ælfrith for life. For objects to connect the Chippenham of to-day with
these thrilling times of half-civilized Britain one looks in vain, for
the church, the most hopeful link, reveals no Saxon work, and what is
Norman has been so cruelly handled that its interest has vanished.
The richly-carved Norman chancel arch, dating from about half a
century after the Conquest, has been recut and removed to the north
side of the chancel.

The modern church of St. Paul was built in 1853 by Sir Gilbert Scott.
A new Town Hall belongs to this period, but the old one is still
standing.


MAUD HEATH'S CAUSEWAY

A very remarkable feature of Chippenham is a paved track some four and
a half miles in length, and still bearing curious inscriptions,
leading northeastwards from the town to the ridge of Bremhill Wick.
This path owes its existence to a bequest made by a certain Maud
Heath, who lived as long ago as the fifteenth century, and the cost of
the maintenance of the path at the present day is defrayed by the
property she bequeathed for the purpose. Tradition says that Maud
Heath was a market-woman of Langley Burrell, a village on the
causeway; and if this is correct one imagines that the good dame left
her money to save those that came after her the toil and discomfort of
trudging with a heavy basket in the deep mire of the heavy clay of the
valley. On the ridge where the path terminates stands a column
bearing a statue of the woman, put up in 1838 by the Lord Lansdowne of
that time--Bowood, the ancestral home of the Lansdownes, from which
Rembrandt's 'Mill' has lately been sold and removed to America, being
only two miles distant.

An undulating road goes almost due north to Malmesbury, passing
through the hamlet of ~Corston~, which has a small church with a curious
Perpendicular bell-turret at the west end.


MALMESBURY

This interesting and historic town is comparatively unknown to the
ordinary tourist. Its situation on a spur of raised ground, with two
branches of the Avon almost surrounding it with a natural moat, made
the place of importance in early days, when such things were eagerly
sought after. One is not surprised, therefore, to find that the site
was a stronghold of the British, known as _Caer Bladon_, and in Saxon
times was a frontier town of Wessex. According to Murray, the present
name is derived from Maidulph or Maldulph, an Irish missionary who,
about the beginning of the seventh century, established a hermitage
under the protecting proximity of the castle, and there began
educational work among the semi-barbarous Saxons. One of his scholars
was the learned Ealdhelm, who became the first abbot of the monastery
of Malmesbury, founded in 680. Of the great religious house which
eventually grew up at Malmesbury only the church remains, now, alas!
sadly diminished and curtailed. Both the central and the western
towers collapsed somewhere about the sixteenth century, crushing the
adjoining parts of the nave and chancel in their fall. The existing
church is therefore only a portion of the nave of the magnificent
abbey church which dominated the little town in pre-Reformation times.
The arcades are Transitional Norman with massive cylindrical pillars,
but above the arches rises a Decorated clerestory, supporting a richly
vaulted roof of the same period. If it had not been for Master Humpe,
whom Leland describes as 'an exceeding riche Clothiar,' there would
quite possibly have been nothing left at all of the abbey church after
the suppression of the monasteries; but this worthy man bought the
buildings from the Crown and presented the church to the parish. The
old parish church was utilized as a town hall, but nothing remains of
that structure except the tower, with a spire.

The beautiful Elizabethan house to the north-east of the abbey church
is built on a portion of the monastic buildings in which Master Humpe
had set up his looms. The famous historian, William of Malmesbury, who
lived in the twelfth century, was librarian and precentor of the
abbey. Before leaving the town the lovely Perpendicular market cross
should be seen, and also the almshouses near St. John's Bridge.

       *       *       *       *       *

Leaving Malmesbury by the Cirencester road, one soon goes to the right
for Cricklade, skirting Charlton Park, with its dignified Jacobean
house built by Sir Thomas Knyvet, with a west front designed, it is
said, by Inigo Jones. It is the seat of the Earls of Suffolk and
Berkshire. The present holder of the title was extra A.D.C. to Lord
Curzon of Kedleston, and married, in 1904, a sister of the late Lady
Curzon. The interior of the house has been modernized, but it contains
a remarkably fine collection of old masters.


CRICKLADE

This prettily-situated little town is on the Thames, about ten miles
from Thames Head, close to the Foss Way, St. Sampson's Church, with
its pinnacled tower, rising picturesquely over the roofs half hidden
among trees. It is a cruciform building, and the interior of the
tower, which is enriched with armorial shields, contains a clock
possessing no face on the exterior! In the churchyard there is a fine
cross with niches in the head, and another is to be found in the
churchyard of the little St. Mary's. Cricklade is one of those really
ancient places whose beginnings are far off in British times, the
origin of the name being the two British words _cerrig_ (stone) and
_lád_ (ford).

From Cricklade one goes south-west as straight as an arrow for about
four miles on the Roman Ermine Way leading from Cirencester
(_Corinium_) to Speen (_Spinæ_), near Newbury. Then one goes to the
left to ~Highworth~, where the route turns due north and meets the
Thames again at


LECHLADE

The Lech and the Coln meet the Thames at the town, and the united
streams suddenly assume an air of dignity, having reached a width of
some 20 yards and a depth sufficient for vessels of 80 tons. Across
the 'stripling Thames' there stands the first stone bridge, whose core
is the medieval structure built somewhere about the beginning of the
thirteenth century, or possibly earlier, in the days when
bridge-building was regarded as a pious enterprise. In its prosperous
days Lechlade sent great quantities of cheese down the river to
London. The church is mainly Perpendicular, dating, according to
Bigland, from about 1470.

Continuing northwards, the road climbs among the eastern slopes of the
Cotswolds, and reaches picturesque old ~Burford~ (see p. 276). The next
place to the north is


SHIPTON-UNDER-WYCHWOOD,

an interesting and attractive old village on the east side of Wychwood
Forest. The spacious church is chiefly an Early English building, with
alterations in Perpendicular times, and no indications at all of
Decorated work. The spire, like that of Witney, is Early English,
while the font and stone pulpit are Perpendicular. Adding immensely to
the picturesqueness of the church, there is on the east side a group
of timeworn buildings of ecclesiastical origin dating back to the time
when Shipton was a prebend of Salisbury Cathedral. One should also
notice the sixteenth-century work of the Crown Inn, standing near the
centre of the village.

Going on towards Chipping Norton, one comes after two miles to some
tumuli, called Lyneham Barrows, and not far beyond these there is a
standing stone about 6 feet high.


CHIPPING NORTON,

another of the towns with the distinctive term revealing an old-time
importance as a market, is the highest town in Oxfordshire, being
nearly 700 feet above the sea. The place consists chiefly of one long
and picturesque street, and what there is to tell of its history is
almost exclusively in relation to its cloth manufactures, its
breweries, or its glove factories. The conspicuous church is mainly
Decorated and Perpendicular, with the tower above the obviously Early
English work, rebuilt in 1825.

There is a story of Bishop Juxon having been the cause of a complaint
to Cromwell because once, when the prelate was hunting, the hare,
closely followed by the hounds, ran through the churchyard. The
Protector's reply, however, took the form of a question: 'Do you think
the Bishop prevailed on the hare to run through the churchyard?'

Nothing whatever is left of the castle formerly standing to the east
of the church, but the almshouses, built in 1640, still survive.

Chipping Norton is left by the road to Evesham, and a run of eight
miles brings one into the long, wide street of ~Moreton-in-the-Marsh~, a
little market town without any exceptional features needing special
reference here. The next place, however, is ~Bourton-on-the-Hill~, a
lovely village, with its old cottages perched either above or below
the steeply ascending road. Of the gardens gaily decked with flowers
one could write many pages; but not far off is ~Broadway~, one of those
delightful villages of the always lovely Cotswolds, full of pleasing
stone architecture, in spite of the evil tendencies which have marred,
if not destroyed, the beauty of so many pleasant old-world haunts. At
the picturesque Lygon Arms, at the lower end of the village, Charles
I. is said to have stayed on more than one occasion, and near it is a
house called the 'Abbot's Grange,' where Mr. Millet, the artist, has
his studio. This was the manor-house of the Abbots of Pershore, a
Benedictine abbey possessing much property at Broadway. There is a
large hall open to the roof, a solar, and a small chapel chiefly
dating from Decorated times. The old church of Broadway, dedicated to
St. Eadburgh, is three-quarters of a mile away, in the Snowshill
Valley. It contains a plain Norman font, a painted wooden pulpit of
the fourteenth century, and some good brasses. From the tower, built
in 1797, above the village one can see a wide panoramic view over the
beautiful rounded hills, broken up by belts of beech and larch.

If there is no need to economize time, it would certainly be unwise to
pass so near the picturesque old town of ~Chipping Camden~ without
having a peep at its fine market hall, its church, and beautiful array
of stone-built houses. After this the hills are left behind, and
Evesham, on the river which flows past Shakespeare's birthplace, is
reached.


EVESHAM

This picturesque little town owed its importance to the great
Benedictine abbey, which up to the Dissolution had, according to
Grose, such a great assemblage of religious buildings that its equal
was not to be found out of Oxford and Cambridge. Of these, however,
there remain to-day only the beautiful Perpendicular bell-tower, the
almonry, the mutilated Norman gatehouse, and the archway leading to
the chapter-house, now the entrance to allotments. Many houses in the
town are built of stones from the destroyed abbey. The Booth Hall, in
the market-place, is a charming old building, and in the High Street
and in Bridge Street there are many fine old houses.

The two churches of Evesham stand in one churchyard, and both were
founded by the monks of the abbey as secular chapels for the town. The
Church of St. Lawrence was practically rebuilt a century ago, but All
Saints, which existed in 1223, has an Early English north aisle and
chancel, and examples of the succeeding periods in the other parts of
the building. The Battle of Evesham was fought on August 4, 1265,
rather less than a mile from the town, on high ground to the north,
marked by an obelisk. Simon de Montfort, who held Henry III. prisoner,
was crushingly defeated by Prince Edward, and both he and his son
Henry were killed, their bodies being buried in Evesham Abbey Church
before the high-altar.


  [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 10--TEWKESBURY.]

TEWKESBURY

is the last place passed through on this extensive loop, and going in
this direction one finds the best wine reserved to the last, for this
exceptionally picturesque old town, with its solemn abbey church,
surrounded by tall ancient trees, and the sweet green meadows, where
Severn and Avon are only separated by a belt of level greensward, is
one of those places that have a way of fixing themselves in the
memory, even if one has never read Miss Mulock's 'John Halifax,
Gentleman.' If one has done so, and remembers the descriptions of
'Norton Bury,' the old town will never be forgotten. One can hardly
think of Tewkesbury without the dominating presence of its great
Norman abbey church, but even without it the long street contains so
many delightful sixteenth-century houses, each possessing individual
charms, that the town would still make an irresistible appeal to all
for whom the architecture of the vanished centuries has some message.

The founder of the present abbey was Robert FitzHamon, who was related
to William the Conqueror, and received the Honour of Gloucester from
Rufus. Having decided to rebuild the modest Saxon abbey, FitzHamon
soon removed all traces of the early buildings when, in 1102, the work
was begun. Five years later the founder died of a wound received
during a siege of the impregnable castle of Falaise in Normandy, and
was buried in the chapter-house. The consecration took place in 1123,
and in 1178 a fire occurred, which was fortunately restricted to the
conventual buildings.

Gilbert de Clare, one of the barons who had signed Magna Charta, was
buried in the abbey, and after him, for two and a half centuries,
every one of his successors was laid to rest in the same building.

When Tewkesbury Abbey was suppressed, the nave, which had always been
secular, continued to be a possession of the town, and the other
portions of the great fabric were bought from the Crown for the sum of
£453.

It is often stated that the great Norman tower is the most perfect in
this country, but the people of St. Albans would no doubt question
this claim. The tall wooden spire, covered with lead, fell during
service on Easter Sunday in 1559, and was never replaced. Inside the
church one sees little that is not pure Norman, and for solemnity and
vast, imposing dignity it would be difficult to find any building able
to overshadow Tewkesbury. It may be compared with Durham, Selby, and
Christchurch. The west end has a wonderfully fine recessed window of
immense proportions. In 1661 the window was blown in during a gale,
and was replaced in 1686. Surely those who were attached to the
Commonwealth must have thought there was something significant in this
parallel to the rending of the veil of the Temple, for the seventeenth
century was a superstitious age.

The Battle of Tewkesbury, one of the decisive encounters of the Wars
of the Roses, was fought, in 1471, on the south side of the town (its
position is shown in the accompanying plan). Edward IV. crushingly
defeated the Lancastrians under Edward, the youthful Prince of Wales,
whose army fought with Tewkesbury in their rear. The defeated army
took refuge in the town, and the slaughter continued in the abbey
church in hideous fashion, until the abbot, bearing in his hands the
consecrated elements, brought the fighting to a close. Prince Edward,
who had been struck in the mouth by the gauntleted hand of the King,
was killed in a house in Church Street.

With the rooks cawing high overhead in the tree-tops, and a sweet
solemnity pervading the whole abbey precincts, it is almost impossible
to picture the ghastly scene of civil war which, four and a half
centuries ago, soaked the meadows in human blood and turned the noble
church into a shambles. For a month no services were held in the
building while every blood-stain was removed.

On the way back to Gloucester one could make a very profitable detour
of a few miles to Deerhurst Priory, a highly interesting pre-Norman
building, until recently used as part of a farm, but lately restored
in a most efficient manner.




SECTION X

(TRUNK ROUTE)

GLOUCESTER TO OXFORD, 50 MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                             Miles.
     =Gloucester= to Cheltenham                  8¾
     =Cheltenham= to Andoversford                6
     =Andoversford= to Northleach                7
     =Northleach= to Burford                     9
     =Burford= to Witney                         7½
     =Witney= to Eynsham                         5¾
     =Eynsham= to Oxford                         6


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

=Gloucester to Cheltenham.=--Level; excellent surface.

There are no hills of any importance all the way to Oxford, but the
surface is rather rough between =Andoversford= and =Burford=. The road
falls nearly all the way from =Northleach to Oxford=.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Cheltenham.=--A watering-place dating from the eighteenth century.
Spa; promenades; St. Mary's Church, Decorated.

=Northleach.=--Picturesque Cotswold village-town. Perpendicular
church, with famous brasses of wool-merchants and remarkably fine
porch.

=Burford.=--A very interesting and picturesque old town; several old
houses; market hall; church, large and irregular, Norman, Early
English, and Perpendicular; Priory ruins.

=Asthall Barrow.=--A prominent prehistoric mound.

=Witney.=--A pleasant and unusually charming old town, famous for
blankets. Church very picturesque, chiefly Early English; old market
house.

=Eynsham.=--A quaint old village with old market house, church, and
picturesque houses. Red Lion Inn with quaint sign.


  [Map: (TRUNK) No. 10. GLOUCESTER TO OXFORD.]

At ~Wotton St. Mary~, Churchdown Hill is a prominent feature on the
right. Some picturesque old cottages stand beside the road, while the
general aspect of the country is pastoral, broken up by large
orchards, a delightful feature of the county. The road rises slightly
as Cheltenham is approached.


  [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 11--CHELTENHAM.]

CHELTENHAM

Cheltenham stands close to the steep, north-west face of the Cotswold
Hills, and until the springs were discovered in 1716 it was but a
struggling hamlet. It is now an aggregation of imposing squares,
crescents, promenades, and villas, interspersed with beautiful parks.
As may be expected, there are few antiquities to be found in a town
of such mushroom growth, the only exception being the ~Parish Church
of St. Mary~, standing just off the High Street. The prevailing style
of the building is early Decorated, and it contains a piscina believed
to be one of the largest and most perfect in England. To those
interested in modern architecture the ~Church of St. Stephen~ may be
mentioned, but ~All Saints'~, the parish church of Pittville, is the
best modern expression of architectural ideals in Cheltenham, although
the ~Roman Catholic Church of St. Gregory~ is a formidable rival. The
public buildings are on a level with the importance of the town. The
merits and uses of the chalybeate and other waters are easily
discovered locally, and no one who remembers the oft-repeated epitaph
of the individual who with three daughters 'died from drinking the
Cheltenham waters' should be prejudiced against their good properties,
which for certain ailments are not to be despised. Cheltenham is a
famous educational centre for girls, and Gloucestershire, as a whole,
has been in the van in educational matters from quite early times.

Cheltenham is the 'Coltham' in 'John Halifax, Gentleman,' where John
and Phineas saw Mrs. Siddons act.

       *       *       *       *       *

The road to Oxford from Cheltenham crosses the beautiful Cotswolds,
climbing up to 800 feet at the Puesdown Inn. From this point there are
wide expanses visible in nearly every direction; but such views do
not give one the real charm of the Cotswolds. To become intimate with
the exquisite valleys and secluded upland villages, one must be in a
mood to potter and loiter, and be content to desert the car at
intervals in order to plunge into some beautiful beech-wood, falling
steeply down a declivity, and revealing glimpses between the tall
smooth trunks of the Vale of Severn, or some sleepy hollow wherein a
silver-grey village nestles. The beautiful architecture of the
Cotswolds, in conjunction with its lovely scenery, is a joy to all who
know these oolite hills. Cottages, farms, mills, and manor-houses, all
with steep roofs of grey stone like the walls, stately gables,
mullioned windows, and picturesque chimneys, are all one can desire.

Even if there is no time to wander from the direct road, one cannot
avoid seeing an exceedingly pleasing little Cotswold town. This is


NORTHLEACH,

a place of some importance when the woollen industry of these hills
was flourishing. There is a subtle charm in the greyness of the old
houses, relieved by the dark green of yew and the lighter tones of
deciduous trees and grass banks here and there. The quaint little
shops add other touches of colour, and wherever one turns there are
pictures of simple Cotswold life, not much altered by the rapid
changes of recent years. The old fellow standing meditatively by the
churchyard gate may talk of the great changes since his youth, when
the cloth industry had not ebbed away from the hills, but to outward
appearances Northleach is, one suspects, little altered since the days
of our great-grandparents, if, indeed, anything has materially changed
the town since the beautiful Perpendicular church was put up. The date
of its building was about the year 1489, when Cotswold wool was one of
the chief industries of England. One may admire the embattled spire
and the graceful delicacy of the whole building, but it is by its
porch that one remembers Northleach Church. It is illustrated here;
but, good as the drawing is, it does not do justice to the wonderful
beauty of that noble piece of Perpendicular craftsmanship surmounted
by its parvise.

On the floor of the nave are a series of brasses to the memory of some
of the most successful of the wool-merchants of the town. They belong
to the fifteenth century, and are exceptionally fine examples of
brasses of the period, giving the details of costume with the greatest
faithfulness. It is pleasant to find that the wealthy men of the
Cotswold wool industry seem to have devoted their surplus riches to
such public works as schools, almshouses, and churches.

At Northleach the Roman Foss Way is crossed coming from Cirencester in
a north-easterly direction.

A few miles beyond Northleach, ~Sherborne Park~, the residence of Lord
Sherborne, is passed on the left. It is a dignified house, situated in
open country, many portions of which are well wooded.

From this point all the way to Witney the road falls steadily, with
the shallow, but always pleasing, valley of the Windrush just below on
the left. This pretty stream coming out of the heart of the Cotswolds
is one of the chief feeders of the Thames, which it meets a dozen
miles above Oxford. Actually on the road there are no villages except
Little Minster between Northleach and Witney, but just below the
highway, on the banks of the little river, there are several. The
first three--Windrush and Great and Little Barrington--are in
Gloucestershire, and the rest are in Oxfordshire. It is tempting to
describe all these places, but one must be content with pointing out
the particular charm of


BURFORD,

one of the most delightful of the old-world towns of the county. There
is a town hall, probably of the fifteenth century, and adjoining it
are some of the best of the old houses in the town. Close to the
stream stands the splendid cruciform church, with its tower and west
door dating back to the Norman period. In Early English times nearly
the whole building appears to have been changed into the Gothic style,
and another transformation took place in the fifteenth century, when
the Perpendicular phase had set in. Owing to the Sylvester aisle and
several chapels, the church is of curious shape, and this helps to
give that indescribable atmosphere of pre-Reformation days entirely
vanished from so many old churches in this country.

Both the school and the almshouses are old foundations, and the
Priory, now a partial ruin, although preserving no ecclesiastical
remains, is a picturesque Elizabethan building to some extent rebuilt
in 1808.

A mile or two beyond Burford one passes Asthall Barrow on the
right-hand side of the road, and only a few yards away across a field.
It is a prehistoric mound of earth, now kept in position by a circular
retaining wall of stone, thus preventing degradation. The trees
surmounting it form a prominent landmark. About three miles farther on
is the fine old manor-house of ~Minster Lovell~, about a mile to the
left, on the Windrush.


WITNEY

Soon after turning to the right the road enters the main street of
picturesque old Witney at right angles. Extending away some distance
to the right is the pleasant elongated belt of green, giving much
charm and distinction to the place, and at the end of the grassy
perspective, rising in stately dignity from old trees, appears the
tower and spire of the cruciform church. This is one of those
peculiarly fascinating buildings one finds it hard to leave. It is
mainly an Early English church, but there are features of other
periods, and among them a Decorated window on the north side, which is
the finest in the whole county. The spire is an Early English
masterpiece. In the middle of the little town stands the quaint Butter
Cross, dated 1683. On the west side of the green is the Grammar School
(1663), with an avenue of elms.

The blanket industry is still in existence, for in spite of modern
competition the little place holds its own on account of some
particular benefit the wool derives from the water of the
neighbourhood.


EYNSHAM

is the last village passed on the way to Oxford. It is a sleepy and
picturesque little place with a small market hall, the shaft of a
fifteenth-century cross, and an inn-sign of the drollest order. This
sign hangs outside the Red Lion, and the King of Beasts is painted on
one side, but the draughtsman had difficulty in accommodating the
tail, and he solved it by the original plan of painting the caudal
appendage on the opposite face of the sign!

Just below Eynsham the road crosses the Thames at Swinford Bridge,
where the beautiful hanging woods of Wytham Hill are on the left, and
a couple of miles farther on the spires and towers of Oxford are in
sight.

  [Illustration: THE CHURCH PORCH AT NORTHLEACH.
   A rare example of the stateliness of Perpendicular architecture in
   a village church.]




LOOP No. 8

OXFORD TO STRATFORD-ON-AVON, COVENTRY, BANBURY, AND OXFORD, 110 MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                                 Miles.
     =Oxford= to Woodstock                           8
     =Woodstock= to Enstone                          6¾
     =Enstone= to Long Compton                       8
     =Long Compton= to Shipstone-on-Stour            5¾
     =Shipstone-on-Stour= to Stratford-on-Avon      10½
     =Stratford-on-Avon= to Leamington              10½
     =Leamington= to Warwick                         2¼
     =Warwick= to Kenilworth                         4¾
     =Kenilworth= to Coventry                        5¾
     =Coventry= to Princethorpe                      7
     =Princethorpe= to Southam                       6
     =Southam= to Fenny Compton                      5½
     =Fenny Compton= to Banbury                      8¼
     =Banbury= to Deddington                         6
     =Deddington= to Sturdy's Castle Inn             7¾
     =Sturdy's Castle Inn= to Kidlington             2
     =Kidlington= to Oxford, Carfax                  5¼


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

=Oxford to Stratford.=--Splendid surface; steep drop down to Long
Compton.

=Stratford to Coventry.=--Surface on the whole excellent; not so good
near Stratford.

=Coventry to Banbury.=--An excellent road, but a few rather steep
hills are encountered.

=Banbury to Oxford.=--Excellent.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Woodstock.=--A little town, with a church containing several styles
of architecture; Blenheim, the residence of the Dukes of Marlborough;
the Column of Victory.

=Long Compton.=--The Rollright Stones, a prehistoric circle of
importance.

=Stratford-on-Avon.=--Shakespeare's birthplace; the memorial; the
church and its interesting monuments; New Place, the residence of the
poet; the Grammar School; Guild Chapel; and Anne Hathaway's Cottage, 1
mile west.

=Warwick.=--A picturesque town, famous for its castle; St. Mary's
Church and the Beauchamp Chapel and monuments; Lord Leycester's
Hospital; the West Gate and various old houses.

=Leamington.=--A beautiful spa; the Jephson Gardens.

=Guy's Cliffe.=--An exquisitely-situated country house.

=Kenilworth.=--A little town, containing half-timbered houses; the
ruins of the famous castle; the church, chiefly Decorated; the remains
of the Priory.

=Coventry.=--A fairly large town; St. Michael's, an exceedingly fine
parish church; Holy Trinity Church; St. Mary's Hall, a fourteenth-century
guild-hall; St. John's Church; the Bablake Hospital; Peeping Tom;
Ford's Hospital.

=Long Itchington.=--Interesting fourteenth-century church.

=Southam.=--A town without much interest.

=Banbury.=--A little Oxfordshire town, famed for its cross and its
cakes; but the cross is modern, and so is the church.


  [Map: LOOP 8. OXFORD TO COVENTRY.]

There are two main roads running to Woodstock from Oxford, lying
parallel to each other; the western one should be selected. It passes
through a well-wooded country, part of the valleys of the Thames and
Evenlode rivers. Upon reaching Woodstock, ~Blenheim Palace~ claims
attention, with the entrance to the park lying upon the left. The
house was built at the public expense in 1715 as a national
recognition of the services of the Duke of Marlborough. It was
designed by Vanbrugh, and is of a heavy Renaissance character. The
interior decorations and the treasures preserved in it are of an
exceedingly interesting nature. (_It is open to the public every day,
except Saturdays and Sundays, between 11 and 1, and the gardens from
11 to 2. Tickets 1s. each._) The park contains the site of the old
Manor-house of Woodstock, which is supposed to have stood upon the
foundations of a Roman villa; it was a royal residence of the Saxon
kings. Here Alfred the Great translated Boethius, and King Ethelred
published his code of laws. Woodstock was the scene of the courtship
of Henry II. and Rosamund Clifford, whose birthplace was Clifford
Castle (see p. 175). Queen Elizabeth was a prisoner for a time in the
old manor-house, and it endured a siege from the Parliamentarians,
finally disappearing in 1723.


WOODSTOCK

This little town sprang into existence solely in consequence of the
proximity of the royal seat. ~The Church of St. Mary Magdalene~ is of
Norman date, but much restoration has taken place. The south aisle is
Early English, and contains part of a Norman doorway. The chancel and
north aisle are Decorated, while the west porch and west tower are
Perpendicular. There are many monuments of interest in the church.

Soon after leaving Woodstock the Column of Victory is prominent on the
left, where the ancient course of the Akeman Street, coming from
Cirencester, is crossed, and shortly afterwards Grim's Dyke occurs,
one of the many Grim's Dykes that are found in England.

Near ~Enstone~ is a cromlech, called the 'Hoarstone,' and soon
afterwards a turning to the left leads to


CHIPPING NORTON

This is a quiet little town, devoted to the manufacture of woollen
goods, and especially horse-cloths. The 'Chipping' is derived from
the same root as 'Chepe,' a market. In the church the chief objects of
interest are some fourteenth-century brasses, which, however, suffered
very much in a restoration some forty years since, when they were
wrenched from their matrices and thrown into the parvise. Of the
castle which once stood here nothing remains.

Between Chipping Norton and Long Compton, at Great Rollright, are the
well-known ~Rollright Stones~, consisting of a prehistoric circle of
standing stones and a cromlech. They are sixty in number, and lie
about 500 yards to the left of the main road. After passing the stiff
descent into Long Compton, a good surface is found to Shipstone-on-Stour,
although the road is second class; but beyond that town a first-class
road lies up the valley of the Stour to Stratford-on-Avon. At
Alderminster tram-lines commence, which reach to Stratford, and a
short distance beyond, Atherstone-on-Stour is passed, where formerly
stood a monastery of mendicant friars. The scenery, meanwhile, has
been gradually assuming the characteristics which distinguish the
beautiful county of Warwick--luxurious hedgerows, gently-flowing
streams, red loam in the fields contrasting with the varying shades
of green. The half-timbered houses and cottages introduce another
pleasant feature into the landscape.


STRATFORD-ON-AVON

This far-famed country town on the banks of the Avon presents a
general appearance of prosperity, the well-built houses, wide streets,
and prevailing aspect of cleanliness giving this impression.
Everything in the town, however, lapses into insignificance in face of
the paramount interest attaching to the town as the birthplace of
Shakespeare. Whether the 'Bard of Avon' was nothing more than an
Elizabethan play-actor or the author of the plays now so widely
attributed to the great scholar and statesman, Francis Bacon, is a
question which now cools the spirit of devotion of many a pilgrim; but
however keen a Baconian may be the visitor to Stratford, he cannot
fail to appreciate the charm of the carefully-restored Elizabethan
houses associated with Shakespeare.

~Shakespeare's Birthplace~ is in Henley Street, a half-timbered,
unpretentious house of two rooms and a kitchen on the ground-floor,
with the room overhead in which he was born. The adjoining cottage has
been converted into a museum, in which documents and relics bearing
in a direct or remote manner with the poet--and some, it must be
confessed, are very remote--are preserved. The birthplace was in
possession of the members of the family for two centuries after the
death of Shakespeare in 1616; in 1847 it was purchased by subscription
for £3,000 and carefully restored. (_Admission 1s.--6d. for the
birthroom and 6d. for the museum._)

~The Town Hall~ is in the High Street; on the front is a statue of
Shakespeare, presented by Garrick.

~New Place~ stood close by, but of the house occupied by the poet during
the last nineteen years of his life there is nothing left but the
site. In it lived Dr. Hall, who married Shakespeare's daughter
Susannah. The house was pulled down in 1702 by Sir John Clopton, and
the new building on its site, together with the famous mulberry-tree,
were destroyed by the Rev. Francis Gastrell in 1759, 'because he was
pestered by visitors'! In 1861 the site of New Place and its gardens
were purchased by public subscription. A Shakespeare Library and
Museum have been established there, _open daily except Saturday and
Sunday; admission 6d. On Saturday the Gardens are free_.

  [Illustration: STRATFORD-ON-AVON.
   Holy Trinity Church contains the tomb of Shakespeare.]

At the opposite corner, Chapel Lane, stands the ~Grammar School~,
founded in 1553, where the poet is reputed to have been educated. It
is a delightful old timber-framed house standing near the Guild
Chapel, a Perpendicular building which is conspicuous in the High
Street.

~The Shakespeare Memorial Theatre~ occupies a pleasant position on the
banks of the Avon. The old theatre was demolished in 1872, and the
present building erected at a cost of £30,000.

~The Parish Church~, of Early English and Perpendicular architecture, is
a fine cruciform building standing on the site of an early Saxon
monastery. In Edward III.'s reign John de Stratford rebuilt the south
aisle and erected a chantry for priests. In 1351 Ralph de Stratford
built a chapel for the latter, now known as the College. The beautiful
choir dates from the time of Dean Balshall (1465). Shakespeare's
monument is on the left side of the chancel; the door there formerly
led to the charnel-house, and the grave is near the monument under a
flat stone, upon which is the oft-quoted verse said to have been
written by Shakespeare. Between this spot and the north wall is buried
his widow, who died in 1623, while those of relatives lie near, such
as Susannah, the eldest daughter, and her husband, Dr. Hall, and
Thomas Nashe, who married Shakespeare's only granddaughter.
(_Admission to the church 6d._)

~Anne Hathaway's Cottage~ is at Shottery, a mile west of Stratford,
divided since the poet's time into three tenements. The room where
Anne was born is shown.

~Charlecote Park~ lies about four miles north-east of Stratford. It is
famous for its hall, erected in 1547 by Sir Thomas Lucy upon the
capital E plan, and was visited by Queen Elizabeth. Here also is the
reputed site of Shakespeare's deer-shooting escapades.

The main road to Warwick lies through a beautifully-wooded country,
rich in pleasant views of hill and dale. Clopton Tower is on the left
shortly after leaving.

The tower of Barford Church can be seen two miles off to the right of
the main road; it was rebuilt in the last century, except the tower,
which retains the marks of Cromwellian cannon-balls.

~Sherbourne~ is near at hand. The church is modern, and of fine design.


  [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 13--WARWICK.]

WARWICK

It has been asserted that the history of Warwick is the history of
England, and certain it is that the ancient town has been involved in
the majority of the great events which have helped to make the
national record. In those stirring events ~Warwick Castle~ has played no
mean part, and is still the glory of the town and county. It is
undoubtedly the most magnificent of the ancient feudal mansions still
used as a residence, and its grand position upon a crag overlooking
the Avon has accentuated its imposing grandeur in no mean degree. Its
chief features are Cæsar's Tower and Guy's Tower, of the fourteenth
century, and the Gateway Tower in the centre. The residential
apartments and the Great Hall suffered in the fire of 1871, but have
been rebuilt. Both the castle and the contents teem with interest.
(_Open to visitors as a rule; no fixed fee. Tickets obtained at small
cottage opposite Castle Lodge, Castle Hill._)

~St. Mary's Church~ is one of the most interesting ecclesiastical
buildings in the country. A Saxon church stood upon the site, and a
later building was made collegiate by Earl Roger de Newburgh. It was
granted to the town as a parish church at the Dissolution. The central
object of interest is the famous Beauchamp Chapel, 1443 to 1464, one
of the best examples extant of Perpendicular architecture bordering
upon the Tudor, and showing occasionally traces of incipient
Renaissance. Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, Regent of France, and
guardian of Edward VI., lies buried here, and his effigy in bronze,
the finest in existence of that nature, lies in the centre of the
chapel. Against the north wall is the magnificent monument of the
famous Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester--splendid in life and
sumptuous in death. Two small ante-chapels are seen--one is probably a
chantry. In the chancel lie Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, and his
second Countess, both of whom died in 1370; their effigies of white
marble, with many 'weepers' round the pedestal, are of great interest.

~Lord Leycester's Hospital.~--There are but few places in England where
such a picturesque and impressive grouping of old timbered houses may
be seen; antique gables and eaves, richly-carved beams and mysterious
recesses; overhanging stories and twisted chimneys, with an old
gateway and a church tower thrown in--it forms a gem of which any city
might be proud. The Hospital was originally a hall of the Guilds; in
1571 the Earl founded it for the reception of twelve poor men, who
still wear the bear and ragged staff as a cognizance. Many
half-timbered houses and quaint old-world nooks remain in Warwick to
delight the eye of the artist and the antiquary, especially near the
castle.


  [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 14--LEAMINGTON.]

LEAMINGTON

A little over a mile separates Warwick from the Royal Leamington Spa,
a beautiful garden city, which has sprung into existence by reason of
the discovery of the efficacy possessed by the mineral waters in 1784.
Until that period it was a small village called Leamington Priors. The
chief springs are saline and sulphuretted saline.

The ~Jephson Gardens~ are beautifully placed on the north bank of the
River Leam, and form one of the chief centres of attraction, and the
Royal Pump Room Gardens face the river on the other side of the
bridge. As might be expected from such a modern town, there are no
objects of antiquity to describe. Returning to Warwick, the road to
Guy's Cliff is taken, running due north, and the entrance-lodge occurs
in about a mile. A fine view of the house is obtained from this point
on looking up the avenue of majestic firs; it was built in 1822,
succeeding a small country mansion, and is in the possession of Lord
Algernon Percy. Situated upon a cliff with a wide part of the river
beneath, it forms a singularly beautiful picture. (_It is only shown
to visitors when the family is absent._)

~The Chapel~ adjoins the mansion on the east, and contains a figure of
Guy, Earl of Warwick, dating from the fourteenth century. Guy's Lane
is near the chapel.

~The Mill~ was built in 1821, and occupies the site of one dating as far
back as Saxon times.

Guy of Warwick is a mythical personage, and the romance mentioning his
deeds dates from the thirteenth century. In the fifteenth century,
when the age of chivalry and romance was at its zenith, Guy was
treated in the same manner as King Arthur, and all kinds of doughty
deeds were attributed to him by the romancers.

~Blacklow Hill~ stands half a mile farther on to the left of the road.
It is surmounted by a cross, erected in 1821 to commemorate the
execution in 1312 of Piers Gaveston. At Gloucester, the tomb of Edward
II., who, like his favourite, came to a tragic end, has been
mentioned.


KENILWORTH

~The Castle~ is the centre of attraction, although there are some good
examples of half-timbered cottages to be seen in the long street of
the little town. The fortress was in ancient times one of the
strongest in England, as it afforded accommodation for a large
garrison, and by reason of the lake and broad moats filled with
water--now disappeared--it was almost impregnable. Numerous roads
converged towards it as the centre of England, and for many years it
was a royal residence. ~The Keep~ was built about 1170, and is a
splendid example of military architecture of the late Norman period.
It is square, with a projecting rectangle, and turrets at the corners.
The walls at the base are 14 feet thick. ~The Garden~, celebrated in
Scott's novel, lay upon the north side of the keep. South of the keep
occur Leicester's Buildings, with fourteenth-century kitchens and
other offices between. By the side of the Great Hall was the Strong
Tower, called Mervyn's Tower by Scott. Mortimer's Tower is isolated to
the south-east; the cutting through the great dam which restrained the
waters of the lake occurred here. The tilt-yard lay upon the top of
the dam. Beyond the Great Lake was the ~Chase~, and the circuit of
the castle, manor, parks and other lands, was about twenty miles. Many
historical names are associated with Kenilworth--the Clintons, Simon
de Montfort, John of Gaunt, and Robert Dudley, who entertained Queen
Elizabeth for seventeen days, and spent a fortune in doing so. The
castle was dismantled and the lake drained in the time of the
Commonwealth.

  [Illustration: FORD'S HOSPITAL, COVENTRY.
   A late fifteenth century almshouse enriched with much elaborate
   carving.]

~The Church~ lies east of the castle. The tower and nave are of
Decorated work, but a Norman doorway has been inserted in the west
side of the tower, taken, probably, from the Priory.

~The Priory~ stood close to the church; it was founded about 1122 by
Geoffrey de Clinton, and richly endowed. The remains of a gatehouse
may be seen, and also some exposed foundations of the walls of the
church.

       *       *       *       *       *

On leaving Kenilworth for Coventry a stretch of moorland extends upon
the right hand, on which are two mounds with the usual fosses around
the summits, denoting British hill-forts. Beyond this the road begins
to assume that characteristic which has made the way from Kenilworth
to Coventry renowned as 'one of the two finest roads in
England'--needless to say, the other road is from Coventry to
Kenilworth--a magnificent avenue with broad strips of greensward lying
on either side, and glimpses of splendid Warwickshire scenery between
the boles, justify the foregoing descriptions.

Two miles from Kenilworth is Gibbet Hill, the erection upon which has
now gone, but was used last in 1765 for the execution of two
murderers. Crossing Stivichall Common, with its triple array of
oak-trees on either side the road, the Coventry Grammar School
buildings are passed upon the left, and the 'City of the Three Spires'
is entered.


  [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 15--COVENTRY.]

COVENTRY

The city derives its name from Conventre, or Convent Town, in
recognition of the Benedictine monastery erected by Leofric and Godiva
in 1043. The well-known legend connected with these famous personages
need only be referred to here. ~Gosford Green~, outside the town, was
the scene of the historical encounter between the Dukes of Hereford
and Norfolk in the reign of Richard II., which had such momentous
results. Many Parliaments have been held in the town, and it was
famous for the great number of religious communities which during the
medieval period were lodged in the town. The ancient fortifications
were dismantled in the time of Charles II. as a punishment for the
Commonwealth tendencies of the citizens.

~St. Michael's Church~, a 'masterpiece of art,' and one of the finest
parish churches in England, stands in the centre of the city. It is in
the Perpendicular style, and has been recently restored. The spire is
303 feet high, and was begun in 1372; flying buttresses of great
elegance support the tower. The oldest part of the church is the
south porch, with a parvise over it. The chapels belonging to the
various guilds in the town still retain their old names. There are
many effigies, but none of great antiquity.

~Holy Trinity Church~ is adjacent to St. Michael's. The date of
foundation is unknown; the style is late Early English, and the work
by the north porch dates from _c._ 1259. The porch has a domus, or
priest's chamber, over it. There are several chapels in the church
devoted to the city guilds. The foundations and remains noticed on the
north side of the church are those of the west front of the cathedral,
built about 1260 upon a preceding Norman foundation. It was the Priory
Church of the monastery founded by Leofric, and was demolished at the
Reformation.

~St. Mary's Hall~, near St. Michael's, was begun in 1394, and belonged
to three guilds. It is of very great interest, and should on no
account be passed by. The great hall, crypt, tapestry, ancient glass
windows, and knaves' post, are all objects worthy of attention, while
the building generally is a vivid reminder of medieval life and
feeling.

~Bablake Hospital~, founded in 1560, is close to St. John's Church, and
presents some picturesque examples of half-timber construction with
quaint gables.

~Peeping Tom~ is a prominent feature of the King's Head Hotel in
Smithford Street, and ~Ford's Hospital~, down Greyfriar's Lane,
possesses an extremely fine façade and a charming timbered court rich
in carved oak and diamond-paned windows.

       *       *       *       *       *

The road to Southam and Banbury leaves Coventry as the London Road,
and about two miles to the south ~Whitley Abbey~ is reached, formerly
the seat of Lord Hood, son of the famous Admiral. In Whitley Abbey
Charles I. resided while conducting operations against Coventry in
1622. On Whitley Common are traces of earthworks thrown up by the
Royalists. Baginton, lying about two miles to the right, contains the
remains of an ancient castle. Shortly after Whitley the road divides,
the one going to Southam being that upon the right. A turning shortly
afterwards at the cross-roads leads to the well-known ~Stoneleigh
Abbey~, lying five miles to the west, the site of a former castle and
of a subsequent foundation for Cistercian monks, which was
dispossessed at the Reformation. Some remains of the castle exist,
but the present building is an imposing range of buildings in the
classic style, and forms, with the grounds, one of the most splendid
country homes in the kingdom. It is the seat of Lord Leigh.

~Long Itchington~ has some fine half-timbered houses, and is a
picturesque village. ~The Church~ was rebuilt in the fourteenth century
by the Priors of Maxstoke. In the eighteenth century the spire was
damaged by lightning; hence its present truncated appearance. The
aisle is part of the original church, and is Early English except the
doorway, which dates from the Norman period. There are some very
interesting details to be found in the interior, notably the chancel
screen, which is an extremely rare example of early fourteenth-century
woodwork. St. Wolstan, the last of the Saxon Bishops, was a native of
this place. Long Itchington was honoured by two visits from Queen
Elizabeth during her progresses to Kenilworth. Two miles farther on is
~Southam~, of no particular interest, although the church may perhaps
repay a casual inspection. The road lies through a pleasant district,
essentially Midland in its general aspects, but near the road turning
off to Fenny Compton higher ground is reached. ~Cropredy~, where the
battle was fought in 1644, is one and a half miles to the east by the
turning close to Mollington.


BANBURY

Banbury is chiefly known by reason of its cross and its cakes. The
former has been destroyed, but a replica exists upon the site. It is a
small borough of about 4,000 inhabitants, and was formerly a notable
place for the manufacture of plush, but now produces agricultural
implements and portable engines. A castle was built here in 1125, but
it was entirely destroyed in the ~Civil War~. The moat, however, may
still be traced. In 1469 the common men of Yorkshire, to the number of
about 16,000, marched to Banbury under the leadership of 'Robin of
Redesdale,' and captured the Earl of Pembroke, after inflicting a
defeat upon him on the borders of Oxford. A college and hospital
formerly existed in the town. The church is of comparatively modern
construction, having been thoroughly rebuilt about a century ago.

Leaving Banbury, the little village of ~Adderbury~ possesses a church
the chancel of which was built by William of Wykeham. Passing the
Astons, North, Mid, and Steeple, we come to the junction of roads
leading respectively to Woodstock and Oxford, and at this point a
Roman road--the Akeman Street--crosses the route, running between
Cirencester and Bicester. In the course of a few miles the outlying
portions of Oxford appear in view.

  [Illustration: MAGDALEN TOWER AND BRIDGE, OXFORD.]




SECTION XII

(TRUNK ROUTE)

OXFORD TO LONDON, 67½ MILES


DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

                                                Miles.
     =Oxford= to Dorchester                         9¼
     =Dorchester= to Nettlebed                      9½
     =Nettlebed= to Henley                          4½
     =Henley= to Maidenhead                         9¼
     =Maidenhead= to Windsor                        6½
     =Windsor= to Staines                           6¼
     =Staines= to Hampton                           7
     =Hampton= to Hampton Court                     1
     =Hampton Court= to Kingston                    1¾
     =Kingston= to the G.P.O., London              12½


NOTES FOR DRIVERS

Between =Oxford and Maidenhead= the road is somewhat hilly, but the
surface is generally good; there is a steep hill (1 in 13) =after
leaving Henley=.

From =Maidenhead to London= the road is level, with an excellent
surface, except =between Maidenhead and Windsor=, where the road is
sometimes flooded.


PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Sandford-on-Thames.=--Small village; church not interesting; remains
of preceptory of Knights Templars.

=Nuneham Courtney.=--Eighteenth-century village, very unusual;
Manor-house of Harcourts.

=Dorchester.=--Old village, with many picturesque cottages; Abbey
Church of considerable interest.

=Henley.=--Picturesque little town; the church, Early English and
Tudor; splendid river views; the Town Hall.

=Maidenhead.=--Large modern town; fine boating centre.

=Eton.=--The college and War Memorial Hall.

=Windsor.=--The castle, dating from the Norman period, with many
subsequent additions; Town Hall, finished by Wren; a few old houses.

=Hampton.=--Hampton Court, magnificent palace of Henry VIII.

=Kingston.=--The church and Coronation Stone; almshouses and Lovekyn
Chapel.


  [Map: (TRUNK) No. 11. OXFORD TO WINDSOR.]

  [Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 12--OXFORD.]

OXFORD

The entrance to the 'city of palaces' is through suburbs of a
commonplace, uninteresting, or even ugly character, the builders
having apparently gained no inspiration from the magnificent examples
of architecture which they are gradually hemming in. That such
squalid, or, at the best, perky and meretricious streets of houses
should have been allowed to encompass the architectural splendours of
the great University is a public scandal, and it is to be hoped that
before many years have passed some steps will be taken to wipe out the
worst of these new abominations. To adequately describe Oxford within
the limits of this work is impossible, and it will be sufficient to
indicate the salient features which should not be passed over. The
city lies upon a low ridge between the Thames and the Cherwell, and is
surrounded by a fine range of hills. The imposing array of towers and
spires, the many colleges with their historic quadrangles, the avenues
and groves and secluded college gardens, the marvellous profusion of
carved stonework, all combine to render the nucleus of this ancient
seat of learning one of the most beautiful in the British Empire. ~The
Bodleian Library~ is the hub round which the colleges cluster, and
after it has been seen the church of ~St. Mary the Virgin~ should be
visited, from its long connection with the seat of learning. Near it
are the New Schools, the Botanic Garden, and the Clarendon Press,
while the Taylor building contains many interesting pictures. Of the
colleges, All Souls, Balliol, Brasenose, Christ Church, Magdalen,
Merton, and New College, are among the most interesting.

~The Cathedral~ belonging to Christ Church dates from 1160, and is a
noble example of Norman architecture. ~The nave~ is pure Norman, ~the
chancel~ Transitional, ~the chapter-house~ Early English. ~The shrine of
St. Frideswide~, ~the Bishop's throne~, and the grand modern reredos, are
particularly notable.

       *       *       *       *       *

The first village passed after leaving Oxford is ~Sandford-on-Thames~,
but the flatness of the country and the presence of a paper-mill with
a tall chimney deprive the place of any particular charm beyond what
is found in the quietest reaches of the Upper Thames. Sandford Church
is not interesting, but there are remains of a preceptory of Knights
Templars at the farm by the brook a little to the north-west.

The road continues parallel with the river, and soon passes through
the curiously uniform village of ~Nuneham Courtney~. The two lines of
picturesque cottages facing one another across the road were built by
the first Earl Harcourt, who, disliking the proximity of the village
to the manor-house, razed the cottages to the ground after
constructing the new ones, which have now been sufficiently toned down
by the weather to give a pleasing effect. This same building Earl
demolished the old church and erected another near the house, now
abandoned for a new one lately put up near the village. He also
rebuilt the house (_not shown to visitors_) in the severely classic
style in vogue at the close of the eighteenth century. The grounds and
gardens were laid out in part by the popular 'Capability' Brown, and
these may be seen on Tuesdays and Thursdays in the summer. _It is
advisable, however, if one particularly wishes to see them, to write
in advance to Mr. H. Gale, Nuneham Courtney._

About a mile beyond the village, at the cross-roads, there formerly
stood a little hostelry called the Golden Ball. It acquired a bad
reputation through the murder of a guest by his servant. The landlord,
having been found with a knife in his hand in the dead man's bedroom,
was condemned to death and hanged, but later on the servant confessed
that he had committed the murder which the landlord had intended.


DORCHESTER

is a dreamy old village, beautifully placed upon the River Thames. It
contains many quaint timbered houses, some with thatched roofs, and
nearly all with some attractive features which make it hard to tear
oneself away from the place. The chief object of interest, apart from
the cottage architecture, is the huge church, so strangely out of
place in such a hamlet. Dorchester, however, has a history stretching
right back to the British period. During the Roman occupation the
camp here was supposed to be called _Dourcastrum_, altered into
Dorchester in the Saxon period, but this Roman name is uncertain. When
Dorchester was the seat of the Saxon bishopric of Wessex, the see
included about twenty English counties, but Remigius, the first Norman
Bishop, transferred it to Lincoln in 1085. The Saxon church, built in
1036, was occupied as a monastic church in 1140, when a monastery of
the Augustinians was founded. In 1200, and also in 1350, extensive
additions were made. In the church the Jesse window on the north side
is unique, for the figures are carved in stone. The east window is a
remarkable example of Decorated work; there is a massive buttress in
the centre, and the whole of the spaces are occupied by reticulated
tracery. The recumbent effigies, dating from 1200 to 1410, are very
interesting, while a brass of the Henry V. period lies in the floor.
The furnishing of the interior savours so much of the Roman church
that one might easily imagine oneself on the other side of the
Channel. One notices a bell conspicuous on the altar steps, and
'sacred' pictures, with candles and half-withered floral offerings in
front of them, are placed on the pillars and elsewhere! Is the Bishop
of Oxford aware of these strange reversions to the practices
condemned by the Protestant Church of England for the last four
centuries? The leaden font is of Norman workmanship, and is a
comparatively rare object. In the churchyard stands a cross with a
restored head.

The ascent of the Chilterns is very gradual, becoming steeper,
however, in places, and delightful views are obtained over the
surrounding country. The quaint little village of Nettlebed stands
upon the summit (1,650 feet above sea-level), and thence the descent
to Henley commences. Near Nettlebed many cultivated downs are to be
seen, their rounded summits crowned as a rule with plantations--a
contrast in this respect with the bare South Downs. These rounded
knolls are all that denudation has left of the tertiary sand deposits
on the chalk. In many parts beeches flourish, and occasionally brick
and timber cottages of quaint aspect are passed.


HENLEY-ON-THAMES

is a charming old town, apart altogether from the prominent position
it holds in the boating world, owing to the magnificent reach of the
Thames which occurs here. There are many picturesque old houses in
the wide, sunny street, and, as at Dorchester, the artist and
architect will find much to attract their attention. ~The Church~,
standing out boldly near the bridge, possesses an Early English
chancel, and the oldest part of the nave is of the same date. Nearly
everything else, including the flint tower, is Tudor. A monument to
Lady Elizabeth Periam, a sister of Lord Bacon and the mistress of
Greenlands (died 1621), is under the tower. There are two hagioscopes
and a priest's entrance to the vanished rood-loft. The bridge, with
open stone parapets, was built in 1786, after the old one had been
carried away by a flood. It is, therefore, much older than the
regatta, which was first held in 1839.

The road between Henley-on-Thames and Maidenhead crosses the ground
lying in a loop of the Thames, gradually rising from Henley and
falling towards Maidenhead. The numerous turnings should be taken with
care. About two miles before reaching Maidenhead the Bath road is
joined.


MAIDENHEAD

is more a centre for river excursions and boating-parties than a place
of any attractiveness in itself. It might easily be mistaken for one
of the better suburbs of London, and contains practically nothing of
interest. The great railway-bridge, with spans of 128 feet, was
designed by Brunel.


ETON

On the left of the High Street, leading to the bridge facing Windsor,
are the picturesque Tudor buildings and the huge chapel of Eton
College. The great courtyard, surrounded by beautifully mellowed
ranges of red-brick buildings on three sides and the chapel on the
south, is delightfully picturesque; and the chapel itself, with its
enormous buttresses and lovely Perpendicular details, is a noble work
within and without. A statue of Henry VI., the founder, stands in the
centre of the large courtyard. The famous playing-fields, where it is
generally understood that those qualities which won the Battle of
Waterloo were developed, extend down to the Thames.


WINDSOR

As one crosses the bridge, the long, imposing line of the castle walls
and towers frowns above the red roofs of the little town, generally
described as the Royal Borough of Windsor. A steep street winds up to
the castle gateway, and as one approaches nearer, the work of
Wyatville on the huge pile becomes painfully apparent. In vain does
one look for the slightest indication that the whole of the great
fortress, including the conspicuous Round Tower, was not built
yesterday. This is the tragedy of Windsor, and after the first general
glance one learns to expect nothing that tells its age by its masonry
or its weathering. Everything, except the timber and brick Horseshoe
Cloisters, is encased in harsh grey stone of a drearily uniform grey.


  [Map: (TRUNK) No. 11. WINDSOR TO LONDON.

The way into London from Kingston-on-Thames is over Putney Heath and
across Putney Bridge, where it is only necessary to follow the motor
omnibuses to reach Hyde Park Corner or any other central point.]

It was probably William the Conqueror who built the first fortress on
the wonderfully defensive site raised above the Thames, but Henry
III., the builder of Westminster Abbey and much of the Tower of
London, who planned the castle on its present vast scale. Edward III.,
having instituted the Order of the Garter, gave up the lower ward to
that distinguished body of knights, and it was he who employed William
of Wykeham as his architect or surveyor. The third, and practically
the last, great builder was George IV., who gave up the historic
buildings, then in bad repair, to the tender mercies of Sir Jeffry
Wyatville, with the results already deplored.

(_The State apartments may be seen during the absence of the Court,
but about a week elapses after the Royal departure before the public
are admitted._)

The magnificent Chapel of St. George--one of the three finest
Perpendicular chapels in the kingdom--was mainly built by Edward IV.,
and finished by Henry VII. and VIII. In the choir are the stalls of
the Knights of the Garter, twenty-six in number, with their banners
above. Edward IV., Henry VI., Henry VIII., and Jane Seymour and
Charles I., were all buried in the chapel.

~Windsor Park~ is famous for the Long Walk--three straight miles of
elms, planted by Charles II.; for the beautiful artificial lake, known
as Virginia Water; and for the mausoleum in the grounds of Frogmore
House, where Queen Victoria and the good Prince Consort lie buried.
(_On one day only--December 14--every year is this open to the
public._)

The road keeps near the river, and passes close to historic Magna
Charta Island, where the unwilling John Lackland signed the great
charter of English liberty in 1215.


STAINES

possesses an important bridge, the descendant of a wooden one which
stood there in 1262. The stone bridge, put up in 1792, gave way, and
its successor, built in 1803, was a bold engineering feat in the form
of a single iron span of 180 feet; but this, too, had to be replaced,
and in 1829 the present stone bridge was planned. It was opened in
1832 by William IV. and Queen Adelaide.

After passing the picturesque Hampton Court Green, one reaches
Wolsey's magnificent red-brick palace--


HAMPTON COURT

The site had been in the possession of the Knights of St. John of
Jerusalem, and it was from the Prior that Cardinal Wolsey obtained a
lease in 1514. He demolished the manor-house, then standing, and in
its place planned the stately palace, with its several courtyards
entered by great gateways of red brick and stone. Here the princely
ecclesiastic entertained in a manner so sumptuous that the Court of
Henry VIII. was outshone by its brilliance. In 1526, the King having
commented on this fact, Wolsey promptly handed over his palace to his
royal master, who did not hesitate to accept a gift so pleasing. After
Wolsey's death, Henry spent much time at Hampton Court, and rebuilt a
large part of the palace.

To chronicle a bare summary of historic events which took place in the
castle is not possible here, but in the early period of its existence
Edward VI. was born there, and within these old red walls Jane Seymour
died, Catherine Howard was disgraced, and Catherine Parr was married.
Here, too, Charles I. spent his honeymoon, and afterwards was confined
as a prisoner for three months.


KINGSTON-ON-THAMES

on the other side of the river, is a busy little town of some
picturesqueness, possessing at one end of its narrowing market-place
the famous ~Coronation~ ~Stone~ from which the place derives its name.
The Perpendicular church, which is large and contains a monument by
Chantrey, used to have a quaint custom of cracking nuts during the
services on the Sunday preceding Michaelmas Eve. So great was the
noise of crunching nuts that it was almost impossible to hear the
voice of the clergyman.

       *       *       *       *       *

After ascending Kingston Hill the road crosses Putney Heath, and
enters the Metropolis through the now uninteresting suburb of Putney.
After crossing Putney Bridge, the motor omnibuses are the best guide
to follow.




A SHORT TABLE, SHOWING THE KINGS AND QUEENS OF ENGLAND SINCE ALFRED
THE GREAT, THE CHIEF EVENTS OF THEIR REIGNS, AND THE STYLE OF
ARCHITECTURE PREVAILING IN EACH PERIOD


     ARCHITECTURAL
       PERIOD.           SOVEREIGNS.             IMPORTANT EVENTS.

                   { _Saxon Kings from_
                   { _Alfred the Great._
                   { Alfred, 871                 Danish invasions
                   { Edward the Elder, 901
                   { Athelstane, 925
                   { Edmund, 941
                   { Edred, 946
                   { Edwy, 955
                   { Edgar, 959
                   { Edward the Martyr, 975
      Saxon or     { Ethelred the Unready, 978
     Pre-Norman    { Edmund Ironside, 1016
                   {
                   { _Danish Kings._
                   { Cnut, 1017
                   { Harold Harefoot, 1036
                   { Hardicanute, 1040
                   {
                   { _Saxon Kings._
                   { Edward the Confessor, 1042
                   { Harold II. 1066             Norman Conquest

                   { William I., 1066            Domesday compilation
     Norman and    { William II., 1087           First Crusade, 1096
     Transitional, { Henry I., 1100
     1066-1190     { Stephen, 1135               Civil war with Matilda
                   {                               throughout reign
                   { Henry II., 1154             Murder of Becket, 1170

                   { Richard I., 1189            Third Crusade, 1189
                   { John, 1199                  The Interdict, 1208
                   {                             Magna Charta, 1215
       Early       {                             Invasion of Louis the
      English,     {                               Dauphin, 1215
     1190-1280     { Henry III., 1216            Battle of Lewes, 1264
                   {                             First Parliament, 1265

     Decorated,    { Edward I., 1272             War with Scotland
     1280-1360     { Edward II., 1307
                   { Edward III., 1327           The Black Death, 1349

                   { Richard II., 1377           Wat Tyler's Rebellion
                   { Henry IV., 1399
                   { Henry V., 1413              Battle of Agincourt
     Perpendicular,{ Henry VI., 1422             Wars of the Roses
       1360-1500   { Edward IV., 1461            Wars of the Roses
                   {                             Printing introduced
                   { Edward V., 1483             Murdered in the Tower
                   { Richard III., 1483          Killed at Bosworth

                   { Henry VII., 1485            Discovery of America, 1492
                   { Henry VIII., 1509           Field of the Cloth of
                   {                               Gold, 1520
                   {                             Cardinal Wolsey, 1471-1530
                   {                             Dissolution of the
                   {                               Monasteries, 1536
       Tudor,      { Edward VI., 1547            Copy of the Bible ordered
     1500-1600     {                               to be placed in every
                   {                               church
                   { Mary, 1553                  Persecution of Protestants
                   { Elizabeth, 1558             Execution of Mary Queen
                   {                               of Scots, 1587
                   {                             Spanish Armada, 1588

                   { James I., 1603              Gunpowder Plot, 1605
                   { Charles I., 1625            Civil War began, 1642
                   { The Commonwealth, 1649
     Jacobean      { Charles II., 1660           The Great Plague, 1665
                   { James II., 1685             Monmouth's Rebellion, 1685
                   {                             Revolution and landing of
                   {                               William of Orange, 1688

                   { William and Mary, 1689
     Queen Anne    { Anne, 1702                  Union of England and
                   {                             Scotland

                   { George I., 1714             South Sea Bubble, 1720
                   { George II., 1727            Rebellion of 1745
                   {                             Taking of Canada, 1759
                   { George III., 1760           American War of
     Georgian      {                               Independence, 1775
                   {                             French Revolution, 1789
                   { George IV., 1820
                   { William IV., 1830           The first railway opened
                   {                             Reform Act, 1832

                   { Victoria, 1837              The Chartists, 1848
     Victorian     {                             Great Exhibition, 1851
                   {                             Crimean War, 1854
                   {                             Indian Mutiny, 1857

                     Edward VII., 1901
                     George V., 1910




MOTOR-CAR SIGNS


     A  London
     AA Southampton (C.C.)
     AB Worcestershire
     AC Warwickshire
     AD Gloucestershire
     AE Bristol
     AF Cornwall
     AH Norfolk
     AI Meath
     AJ Yorkshire (N.R.)
     AK Bradford (Yorks)
     AL Nottinghamshire
     AM Wiltshire
     AN West Ham
     AO Cumberland
     AP Sussex, East
     AR Hertfordshire
     AS Nairn
     AT Kingston-on-Hull
     AU Nottingham
     AW Salop
     AX Monmouthshire
     AY Leicestershire

     B  Lancashire
     BA Salford
     BB Newcastle-on-Tyne
     BC Leicester
     BD Northamptonshire
     BE Lindsey, Lincs
     BF Dorsetshire
     BH Buckinghamshire
     BI Monaghan
     BJ Suffolk, East
     BK Portsmouth
     BL Berkshire
     BM Bedfordshire
     BN Bolton
     BO Cardiff
     BP Sussex, West
     BR Sunderland
     BS Orkney
     BT Yorkshire (E.R.)
     BU Oldham
     BW Oxfordshire
     BX Carmarthenshire
     BY Croydon

     C  Yorkshire (W.R.)
     CA Denbighshire
     CB Blackburn
     CC Carnarvonshire
     CD Brighton
     CE Cambridgeshire
     CF Suffolk, West
     CH Derby
     CI Queen's County
     CJ Herefordshire
     CK Preston
     CL Norwich
     CM Birkenhead
     CN Gateshead
     CO Plymouth
     CP Halifax
     CR Southampton
     CT Kesteven, Lincs
     CU South Shields
     CW Burney
     CX Huddersfield
     CY Swansea

     D  Kent
     DA Wolverhampton
     DB Stockport
     DC Middlesbrough
     DE Pembrokeshire
     DF Northampton
     DH Walsall
     DI Roscommon
     DJ St. Helens
     DK Rochdale
     DL Isle of Wight
     DM Flintshire
     DN York
     DO Holland, Lincs
     DP Reading
     DR Devonport
     DS Peebles
     DU Coventry
     DW Newport (Mon.)
     DX Ipswich
     DY Hastings

     E Staffordshire
     EA West Bromwich
     EB Isle of Ely
     EC Westmorland
     ED Warrington
     EE Grimsby
     EF West Hartlepool
     EH Hanley
     EI Sligo
     EJ Cardiganshire
     EK Wigan
     EL Bournemouth
     EM Bootle
     EN Bury
     EO Barrow-in-Furness
     EP Montgomeryshire
     ES Perth
     ET Rotherham
     EU Breconshire
     EW Huntingdonshire
     EX Great Yarmouth
     EY Anglesea

     F Essex
     FA Burton-on-Trent
     FB Bath
     FC Oxford
     FD Dudley
     FE Lincoln
     FF Merionethshire
     FH Gloucester
     FI Tipperary (N.R.)
     FJ Exeter
     FK Worcester
     FL Peterborough
     FM Chester
     FN Canterbury
     FO Radnorshire
     FP Rutlandshire

     G Glasgow

     H Middlesex
     HI Tipperary
     HS Renfrew

     IA Antrim
     IB Armagh
     IC Carlow
     ID Cavan
     IE Clare
     IF Cork (County)
     IH Donegal
     IJ Down
     IK Dublin
     IL Fermanagh
     IM Galway
     IN Kerry
     IO Kildare
     IP Kilkenny
     IR King's County
     IT Leitrim
     IU Limerick
     IW Londonderry
     IX Longford
     IY Louth
     IZ Mayo

     J Durham
     JI Tyrone
     JS Ross and Cromarty

     K Liverpool
     KI Waterford
     KS Roxburgh

     L Glamorganshire
     LB London
     LC London
     LI West Meath
     LN London
     LS Selkirk

     M  Cheshire
     MI Wexford
     MS Stirling

     N  Manchester
     NI Wicklow
     NS Sutherland

     O  Birmingham
     OI Belfast
     OS Wigtown

     P  Surrey
     PI Cork
     PS Shetland

     R  Derbyshire
     RI Dublin
     RS Aberdeen

     S  Edinburgh
     SA Aberdeen (County)
     SB Argyll
     SD Ayr
     SE Banff
     SH Berwick
     SJ Bute
     SK Caithness
     SL Clackmannan
     SM Dumfries
     SN Dumbarton
     SO Elgin
     SP Fife
     SR Forfar
     SS Haddington
     ST Inverness
     SU Kincardine
     SV Kinross
     SW Kirkcudbright
     SX Linlithgow
     SY Midlothian

     T  Devonshire
     TI Limerick
     TS Dundee

     U  Leeds
     UI Londonderry
     US Govan

     V  Lanark
     VS Greenock

     W  Sheffield
     WI Waterford
     WS Leith

     X  Northumberland
     XS Paisley

     Y  Somersetshire
     YS Partick




HOTELS ON THE ROUTE

The following hotels are recommended, having been lately visited by
the authors:


     DAVENTRY: The Wheatsheaf Hotel.
     CHESTER: The Grosvenor Hotel.
     RHYL: The Belvoir Hotel.
     LLANDUDNO: The Queen's Hotel.
     DOLGELLEY: The Golden Lion Hotel.
     ST. DAVID'S: The City Hotel.
     GLOUCESTER: The Bell and County Hotel.
     LEAMINGTON SPA: The Regent Hotel.




INDEX


     Aber, falls at, 94

     Aberdovey, 128

     Abergavenny, 187

     Abergavenny, Marquis of, 187

     Abergele, 60

     Aberglaslyn, Pass of, 113

     Abergynolwyn, 123

     Aberystwyth, 130, 131

     Adderbury, 303

     Adelaide, Queen of William IV., 317

     Ælfrith, daughter of Alfred, 254

     Afon Dulas, 124

     Afon Gwaen, 156

     Agincourt, Battle of, 222

     Akeman Street, 283, 304

     Aldenham, Lord, 9

     Alderminster, 286

     Aldersey Hall, 43

     Alfred the Great, 234, 254, 282

     'Alleluia Victory,' 55

     Althorp Park, 22

     Anglesey, 88

     Anglesey Column, 105

     Anglesey, Marquis of, 105

     Anker, River, 27

     Ap Cadell ap Brochmail, Concenn, 71

     Aquablanca, Bishop, 178

     Aragon, Catherine of, 16

     Arbury Hall, 26

     Ardudwy, Mountains of, 120

     Arkwright, Richard, 222

     Arthog, 120

     Arthur, King, 195

     Arthur's Quoit, 116

     Asthall Barrow, 277

     Aston, North, Mid, and Steeple, 303

     Athelney, 254

     Atherstone, 28, 30

     Avon, Warwickshire, 23


     Bacon, Sir Francis, Lord Verulam, 12, 13, 287, 313

     Bala Lake, 83

     Balshall, Dean, 289

     Banbury, 303

     Bangor, 96

     Bardsey Island, 115

     Barford, 290

     Barmouth, 116, 120, 121

     Barnet, 3, 4

     Barrington, Great and Little, 276

     Basingwerke Abbey, 56

     Bath, 250-252

     Batheaston, 242

     Battle Abbey, a cell of, 146

     Beaufort family, the, 194

     Beaumaris, 94

     Beavers, Valley of, 100

     Beddgelert, 113

     Bede, the Venerable, 8

     Belesme, Robert de, 235

     Benglog Bridge, 101

     Berkeley Castle, 213

     Berrington Hall, 225

     Berwyn Mountains, 70

     Bethesda, 99, 105

     Bettws-y-Coed, 83, 84

     Bigsweir Bridge, 203

     Bird Rock, the, 122

     Birmingham reservoirs, 181, 183

     Black Forest, the, 185

     Black Mountains, the, 147, 173, 185

     Black Plague, 176

     Blacklow Hill, 295

     Blenheim Palace, 282

     Blorenge Hill, 188, 191

     Boadicea, 13, 44

     Bodbury Ring, 230

     Bodelwyddan Church, 62

     Bodenham, 221

     Bodfari, 57

     Bordeaux, 42

     Borth, 128

     Boscobel House, 35

     Bosworth, Battle of, 26, 28, 78

     Boughrood Castle, 185

     Bourton-on-the-Hill, 262

     Bowood, 256

     Box, 253

     Bradwell Abbey, 20

     Bran, River, 148

     Bran the Blessed, 114

     Braose, William de, 187

     Breakspere, Nicholas, 12

     Brecknock Beacons, 146, 147, 191

     Brecon or Brecknock, 143-146

     Bremhill Wick, 255

     Bridgnorth, 226, 234-235

     Brintirion, 118

     Britannia Tubular Bridge, 105

     British remains, 69, 83, 94, 129, 146

     Broadway, 262

     Brockhurst Castle, 230

     Bromfield, 226

     Bronllys Castle, 185

     Bronwen, 114

     Brookthorpe, 246

     Broughton, 53

     Brown, 'Capability,' 310

     Brown Clee Hill, 226

     Brownhills Common, 35

     Brunel, 314

     Buckley, 53

     Buildwas Abbey, 233-234

     Builth Wells, 183, 184

     Burford, 260, 276-277

     By Brook, the, 253

     Byford, 176

     Byng, Admiral, 4

     Byron, Lord, 108


     Cader Idris, 117, 123, 132, 135, 137

     Caen, Paul de, 8

     Caer Caradoc Hill, 230

     Caerleon, 206

     Caerwent, 198, 199

     Caerwys, 56

     Cæsar, Julius, 12

     Caldicott Castle, 200

     Calveley Hall, 43

     Cannock Chase reservoir, 35

     Cantelupe, George de, 188

     Cantilupe, Sir Thomas, 178

     Capel Curig, 102

     Capel Garmon, 84, 85

     Caractacus, 230

     Caradoc, King of North Wales, 60

     Caradoc Range, 231

     Carden Hall, 42

     Cardiff Castle, 214

     Cardigan, 151

     Cardigan Bay, 130

     Careg Cennen, 171

     Carmarthen, 168, 169

     Carnarvon, 57, 105-109

     Carnarvon Castle, 107

     Carnarvonshire Mountains, 88

     Carnedd Dafydd, 100, 110

     Carnedd Llewelyn, 100

     Carno, River, 138, 139

     Castell Crogen, 81

     Castell Dinas Brân, 70

     Castell-fan-Crach, 132

     Castell-y-Bere, 123

     Castell-y-Gaer, 121

     Cave, 23

     Cefn Caves, the, 63

     Cefn Hall, 63

     Cefn-y-Bedd, 184

     Cemmaes, 138, 155

     Cenarth, 151

     Cencoed Castle, 199

     Ceriog Valley, 82

     Cerrig-y-Druidon, 83

     Chandos family, 207

     Chantrey, 319

     Charlecote Park, 290

     Charles I., 22, 194, 248, 262, 316, 318

     Charles II., 35, 299, 317

     Charlton, Bishop, 176

     Charlton Park, 258

     Chartist riots, 198

     Cheltenham, 270-272

     Chepstow, 200, 201

     Chepstow, Marshall, Earl of, 153

     Cheshire bowmen, 41

     Chester, 14, 45-51

     Chester, Bishop of, 234

     Chiltern Hills, 19, 312

     Chippenham, 254-255

     Chipping Norton, 261, 283

     Chirk Castle, 66, 81

     Cholmondeley Castle, 42

     Churchdown Hill, 270

     Churchover, 23

     Church Stretton, 229

     Cirencester, 259

     Civil War, 42, 43, 48, 59, 65, 80, 81, 90, 108, 130, 144, 150,
       165, 194, 200, 206, 208, 212, 226, 229, 235, 242, 283, 290,
       299, 303

     Clare, David le, 42

     Clare, Gilbert de, 165, 266

     Cleddau, River, 165

     Clifford Castle, 175

     Clifford, Jane de, 175

     Clinton, Geoffrey de, 297

     Clinton, Roger de, 234

     Clintons, the, 297

     Clopton, Sir John, 288

     Clopton Tower, 290

     Clwyd, Vale of, 57, 58, 59, 60, 63, 64, 68, 69

     Clwydian Hills, 56, 67

     Clyro, 175

     Clyro Castle, 174

     Clytha Castle, 191

     Clywedog, the, 135

     Coalbrookdale, 234

     Coetmore, Howel, 86

     Coldbrook House, 191

     Cold Door Pass, 137

     Coningsby family, 222

     Conway, 85, 90-93

     Conway Abbey, 86

     Conway Castle, 90, 92

     Conway Falls, 83

     Conway Valley, 86

     Corne Dale, 227

     Cornwallis West, Colonel W., 67

     Corris, 124

     Cors-y-Gedol, 116

     Corsham, 253-254

     Corston, 258

     Corwen, 69

     Cothi, River, 148

     Cotswolds, the, 246, 247, 262, 272-273

     Cound, 233

     Coventry, 49, 298-301

     Cranmer, Archbishop, 16

     Criccieth, Castle of, 115

     Crick, 200

     Crickhowell, 186

     Cricklade, 258-259

     Cromwell, Oliver, 261

     Cropredy, 302

     Cross Foxes Inn, 123, 137

     Cross-in-Hand, 25

     Curzon of Kedleston, Lord, 258

     Cusop Castle, 174

     Cutts, Sir John, 6

     Cwm Bychan, Lake of, 115

     Cwm Hir, Abbey of, 140

     Cymmer Abbey, 118


     Darby, Abraham, 234

     Darby Family, the, 234

     Dauncer Family, 220

     Daventry, 22

     Dean, Forest of, 210

     Dee, River, 69, 70, 73, 83

     Dee Valley, 82

     Deerhurst Priory, 268

     Denbigh, 63, 67

     Denbigh Castle, 66

     Derwen, 69

     Deudraeth, Castle of, 114

     Devil's Bridge, 131, 132

     Devil's Kitchen, the, 101

     Devil's Pots, the, 102

     Devil's Punch Bowl, 132

     Dinas Mawddwy, 136, 137

     Dinmore Hill, 221

     Dixton, 205

     Dolbadarn Castle, 110

     Dolgelley, 118, 120, 135

     Dorchester, 310-311

     Dovey, the, 124, 126, 128, 138

     Dowards, the Great and Little, 206, 210

     Drayton, Fenny, 27

     Drayton Manor, 30

     Drayton, Michael, 27

     Druidical Circles, 130, 286

     Drws Ardudwy, 115

     Dryslwyn Castle, 170

     Dudley, Robert, 297

     Dudmaston Castle, 235

     Dulais, River, 148

     Dunsmore Heath, 23

     Dunstable, 15-17

     Dunstable Downs, 19

     Dürer, Albrecht, 78

     Dursley Cross, 211

     Dyffryn River, 121

     Dynevor Castle, 150

     Dynevor, Lord, 171

     Dynevor Park, 170

     Dysynni Valley, 123


     Ealdhelm, 257

     Easton Neston House, 20

     Eaton Hall, 224

     Edeyrnion, Vale of, 83

     Edgar, King, 31

     Edgware, 3

     Edred, King, 11

     Edward I., 58, 64, 76, 108, 114, 123, 130, 170, 214, 228

     Edward II., 108, 213, 214, 217

     Edward III., 167, 316

     Edward IV., 114, 226, 268, 316, 326

     Edward V., 20

     Edward VI., 318

     Eglwyseg, the, 72

     Eglwyseg Rocks, 70

     Eisteddfodau, the, 56

     Elan, Vale of the, 181

     Eleanor of Castile, 16

     Eleanor Cross at Stony Stratford, 20

     Elidyr Fawr, 100, 110

     Eliot, George, 26

     Eliseg's Pillar, 71

     Elizabeth, Queen, 282, 290, 297-302

     Ellesmere, 74

     Elstree, 3

     Emlyn, Viscount, 170

     Enstone, 283

     Ermine Way, 259

     Erwood, 184

     Ethandune, Battle of, 254

     Ethelbert, 177, 221

     Ethelfleda, Queen, 30, 50, 235

     Ethelred, King, 282

     Eton, 314

     Evesham, 262-264

     Evesham, Battle of, 264

     Eye, 225

     Eynsham, 278


     Fairy Glen, the, 83

     Falaise, 266

     Fenny Compton, 302

     Fenny Stratford, 19

     Ferrers Family, 30, 31

     Ffestiniog Railway, 113

     Ffestiniog, Vale of, 113

     Fishguard, 155, 156

     Fitz-Hamon, Robert, 266

     Fitzharon of Glamorgan, 197

     Fitz-Osborn, Earl of Hereford, 200

     Flamstead, 15

     Flanesford Priory, 206

     Foel Fras, 94

     Ford, 222

     Foss Way, 26, 258, 275

     Fox, George, 27

     Frevilles, the, 31

     Friog, 121

     Frost, Jack, 198

     Frowyke, Thomas de, 5


     Garter, Order of the, 316

     Garth Hill, 184

     Gastrell, Rev. Francis, 288

     Gaullwyd Valley, 135

     Gaunt, John of, 297

     Gaveston, Piers, 295

     Geoffrey of Monmouth, 204

     George IV., 316

     Germanus, 55

     Giant's Nose, 117

     Gibbet Hill, 298

     Glandovey, 128

     Glasbury, 172

     Glaspwll Cascade, 128

     Glendower, Owen, 39, 57, 64, 68, 69, 70, 114, 125, 174, 224

     Gloucester, 211-218, 246

     Gloucester Cathedral, 212-216

     Gloucester, Humphrey, Duke of, 10

     Glyder Fach, 100, 102

     Glyder Fawr, 100, 101, 102, 111

     Godiva, Lady, 298

     Goodrich Castle, 206

     Goodrich Court, 207

     Goodwick Harbour, 155

     Gorhambury, 14

     Gower, Bishop, 160

     Graig Serrerthin, 210

     Great Orme's Head, 87

     Greenlands, Henley, 313

     Grey, Reginald de, 68

     Greys, the De, 207

     Griffith, the son of Madoc, 71

     Grim's Dyke, 283

     Grimthorpe, Lord, 9, 11

     Grongar Hill, 170

     Guy's Cliff, 294, 295

     Gwydir Castle, 85, 86

     Gwynedd, Owen, 130

     Gwynn, Nell, 6


     Hafod Bridge Inn, 148

     Hakluyt, family of, 225

     Haldingham, Richard de, 179

     Halkin Mountain, 53, 56

     Hall, Dr., 288

     Hampton Court, Herefordshire, 222

     Hampton Court, Middlesex, 317

     Handley Church, 43

     Harcourt family, 309

     Hardicanute, 238

     Hardwicke, 246

     Hare, Mr. Augustus, 228, 229

     Harlech, 113, 114, 121

     Hartshill, 27

     Hathaway, Anne, cottage of, 290

     Haverfordwest, 163, 165, 166

     Hawkstone Park, 41

     Hay, 173

     Heaven's Gate Camp, 233

     Henley-on-Thames, 312-313

     Henry of Bolingbroke. See Henry IV.

     Henry I., 224

     Henry II., 175, 235, 282

     Henry III., 165, 173, 264, 316

     Henry IV., 39

     Henry V., 204, 224

     Henry VI., 10, 314, 316

     Henry VII., 78, 171, 194, 316

     Henry VIII., 5, 316, 318

     Herckenrode, nunnery of, 34

     Hereford, 176-179

     Hereford, Dukes of, 298

     Hill, Rowland, 41

     Hinckley, 26

     Holmer Church, 220

     Hood, Lord, 301

     Hooper, Bishop, 216

     Hope Bowdler, 229

     Hope Church, 222

     Hope-under-Dinmore, 222

     Howard, Catherine, 318

     Humpe, Master, 257

     Huntley, 211

     Hwlffordd, Robert de, 166


     Icknield Way, 15

     Idwal, Prince, 101

     Ironbridge, 234

     Itchington, Lord, 302

     Ivington Camp, 224


     James I., 23, 174

     'Jesse Tree,' 188

     'John Halifax, Gentleman,' 272

     John, King, 176, 317

     Johnson, Samuel, 35

     Jones, Inigo, 85, 86, 258

     Juxon, Bishop, 261


     Kenilworth, 296-297

     Kerne Bridge, 206

     Kidderminster, 235-236

     Kilgerran Castle, 152

     Kilsby, 23

     Kingston-on-Thames, 318

     Kite's Nest Inn, 176

     Kneller, Sir Godfrey, 208

     Knyvet, Sir Thomas, 258

     Kyrle, John, 208-209


     Laceys, the, 64

     Lampeter, 148

     Langley Burrell, 255

     Lansdowne, Lord, 256

     Lawley, the, 229

     Lea, 210

     Leamington, 293-294

     Lechlade, 259

     Ledbury, 241-242

     Leicester, 22, 26

     Leicester, Earls of, 292, 297

     Leigh, Lord, 302

     Leland, 174, 197, 257

     Lenthall, Sir Roland, 222

     Leofric, 298

     Leominster, 222-224

     Letton, 175

     Leycester's Hospital, Warwick, 293

     Lichfield, 32, 33

     Little Minster, 276

     Little Orme, the, 88

     Llanbadarn, 131

     Llanbeblig Church, 109

     Llanbedr, 115

     Llanberis, 110

     Llanberis, Old, 111

     Llanberis, Pass of, 111

     Llanbyther, 149

     Llanddwywe Church, 116

     Llandegai, 99

     Llandegai, Model Village of, 94

     Llandilo, 171

     Llandinam, 139

     Llandovery, 148

     Llandudno, 87, 88

     Llandyssil, 149

     Llanegryn, 122

     Llanelltyd, 118

     Llanfairfechan, 94

     Llanfair Pwll Gwyngyll, etc., 105

     Llanfihangel-ar-Arth, 149

     Llangattock-juxta-Usk, 191

     Llangelynin, 122

     Llangoed, 185

     Llangollen, 70-72

     Llangollen Bridge, 70

     Llangollen, Ladies of, 70

     Llangollen, the Vale of, 72

     Llangorse Lake, 185

     Llangunnor, 169

     Llangurig, 131, 141

     Llanidloes, 140

     Llanrhaiadr Church, 66

     Llanrwst, 85, 86

     Llanthony Abbey, 175, 211

     Llanvihangel-on-Usk, 191

     Llanwrda, 148, 172

     Llawhaden Castle, 167

     Llawr Lech, 117

     Llewelyn, 58, 85, 155, 184

     Llewelyn ap Gruffydd, 56

     Lleyn Peninsula, 121

     Llwyngwril, 121

     Llyn Bochlwyd, 102

     Llyn Ogwen, 101

     Llyn Padarn, 109

     Llyn Peris, 111

     London Colney, 6

     Longchamps, the, 207

     Long Compton, 286

     Long Mynd, 229, 231

     Lorraine, Robert, 177

     Lovers' Leap, 201, 203

     Lucy, Sir Thomas, 290

     Ludlow, 225-226

     Ludlow, Lawrence de, 228

     Lug, River, 222

     Lutterworth, 24, 25

     Lyfnant Valley, 128

     Lyneham Barrows, 261

     Lysdinam Hall, 183

     Lyswen, 185


     Machynlleth, 125

     Maenan Abbey, 86

     Maenan House, 86

     Magna Charta, 266

     Magna Charta Island, 317

     Maiden Bower, 15

     Maidenhead, 313-314

     Maldulph, 256

     Malmesbury, 256-258

     Malvern, Great, 240, 241

     Malvern Hills, 236

     Mancetter, 27

     Mancetter Manor House, 27

     Mandeville, Sir John, 11

     Mansell Hill, 176

     _Mappa Mundi_, 178

     Marden Church, 221

     Margaret of Anjou, 114

     Marlborough, Duke of, 282

     Marmions, the, 31

     Martin de Tours, 152

     Mathern, 200

     Matilda, the Empress, 212

     Maud Heath's Causeway, 255

     Mawddach, the, 116, 117, 120

     Maxstoke, Priors of, 302

     Menai Straits, the, 88, 107

     Menai Suspension Bridge, 104

     Merbach Hill, 175

     Merevale Abbey, 30

     Merewald, King of the West Mercians, 222

     Methuen, Lord, 253

     Methuen, Sir Paul, 253

     Meyrick, Sir Samuel, 207

     Mimms, North, 5

     Mimms, South, 5

     Miner's Bridge, the, 84

     Minster Lovell, 277

     Mistletoe, 241

     Mitcheldean, 211

     Moccas Park, 176

     Mochras, Island of, 115

     Moel Arthur, 56

     Moel Fammau, 55, 56, 67, 69

     Moel Feulli, 69

     Moel Habog, 113

     Moel Hebod, 115

     Moel Siabod, 85, 100, 102

     Moel-y-Gaer, 129

     Mold, 53-56

     Mollington, 303

     Monken Hadley, 4

     Monmouth, 203-205

     Monnow, River, 203

     Montfort, Simon de, 264, 297

     Montgomery, Roger de, 226, 235

     Moreton-in-the-Marsh, 262

     Moreton-on-Lug, 220

     Morfa Harlech, 114

     Morfa Rhuddlan, 59

     Morfe, Forest of, 235

     Mortimer, Roger, 81

     Mortimers, the, 39

     Mouse Castle, 174

     Muckley Corner, 35

     Mulock's, Miss, 'John Halifax, Gentleman,' 265

     Myddelton, Richard, 66

     Myddelton, Sir Hugh, 66, 73, 81

     Myddelton, Sir Thomas, 68, 81, 82

     Mynydd Prescelly, 153

     Mytton, General, 59


     Nailsworth, 250

     Nant Ffrancon, 86, 100, 110, 111

     Nant Gwgan, 124

     Nantclwyd, Vale of, 69

     Narberth, 167, 168

     Naseby, Battle of, 194

     Nash, Beau, 252

     Nelson, Lord, 170

     Nequam, Alexander, 11

     Nero, 13

     Nevern, 153

     New River, the, 66, 81

     Newbridge-on-Wye, 183

     Newburgh, Earl Roger de, 292

     Newcastle Emlyn, 150

     Newgate, 164

     Newport, Mon., 196-199

     Norfolk, Dukes of, 298

     Norfolk, Roger Bigod, Earl of, 202

     Northleach, 274

     Nuneaton, 26

     Nuneham Courtney, 309


     Oakengates, 36

     Offa's Dyke, 80, 82, 176, 201

     Offa, King of Mercia, 8, 59, 80, 221

     Ogham Stones, 116

     Ogofan, the, 148

     Ombersley, 236

     Onibury, 227

     Osric, King of Mercia, 213

     Oswald, 238

     Oswestry, 80

     Overton Scar, 42

     Oxford, 306-308


     Painswick, 246-248

     Panorama Walk, 117

     Paris, Matthew, 11

     Parker, Abbot, 214

     Parr, Catherine, 318

     Paxton, Sir William, 170

     Pearson, Bishop, 47

     Peel, Sir Robert, 30

     Pembroke, William, Earl of, 65, 194, 303

     Pen Caer Peninsula, 156

     Pendragon, 195

     Penhow Castle, 199

     Penmachno, 83

     Penmaenpool, 120

     Penrhyn Castle, 94, 95, 99

     Pentre Evan Cromlech, 154

     Pentre Voelas, 83

     Pen-y-Gaer, 83

     Penyard Castle, 210

     Percies, the, 39

     Percy, Henry, 64

     Percy, Lord Algernon, 295

     Periam, Lady Elizabeth, 313

     Pershore, Abbots of, 262

     Picton Castle, 167

     Picton monument, 169

     Piercefield Park, 201

     Pistyll-y-Cain, 136

     Pistyll-y-Llyn, 128

     Pitchcombe, 246, 248

     Plas Mawr, Conway, 92

     Plas Newydd, 70

     Plautius, Aulus, 12

     Plynlimmon, 132, 139, 140

     Pointz Castle, 164

     Poitiers, Battle of, 86

     Pont Erwydd, 131, 132

     Port Dinorwic, 105

     Powis, Princes of, 71

     Precipice Walk, the, 135

     Prehistoric remains, 116, 156, 286

     Prescelly Mountains, 155

     Puesdown Inn, 272

     Puffin Island, 94

     Putney Heath, 319

     Putta, Bishop, 177


     Quatt, 235

     Quendrida, Offa's Queen, 221


     Raglan Castle, 192-194

     Rain, 148

     Ramryge, Abbot, 10

     Reading Priory, 224

     Redbourne, 14

     Redbrook, 203

     Redesdale, Robin of, 303

     Redhill, 36

     Ramsey Island, 161

     Rembrandt's (?) 'Mill,' 256

     Remigius, Bishop, 311

     Rheidol, Falls of the, 132

     Rheidol Valley, 132

     Rhuddlan, 62, 64

     Rhuddlan Church, 59

     Rhyl, 60

     Rhys of Wales, 172

     Richard II., 79

     Richard's Castle, 225

     Richard of Scrop, 225

     Ridge Hill, 5

     Risbury Camp, 222

     Rivals, the, 115

     Robbers' Cave, 132

     Robert, Duke of Normandy, 214

     Robeston Wathen, 167

     Robin Hood's Butts, 220

     Roche Castle, 164

     Rodney, Lord, 225

     Rollright Stones, 286

     Roman roads, 198, 211, 229, 231, 237, 251, 258, 259, 282, 283, 304

     Roman sites, 15, 19, 23, 35, 36, 37, 44, 56, 57, 69, 77, 86, 105,
       109, 125, 139, 146, 147, 150, 168, 169, 172, 174, 183, 187,
       195, 199, 204, 230, 259, 275, 311

     Roman steps, 115

     Rosamond, Fair, 175, 282

     Ross, 208-210

     Rowton Moor, 43

     Rugby, 24

     Rupert, Prince, 242

     Ruthin, 67-69


     Sai, Picot de, 227

     St. Albans, 5, 6-14, 221, 267

     St. Amphibalus, 10

     St. Arvans, 201

     St. Asaph, 57-58

     St. Bride's Bay, 164

     St. Caradoc, 160

     St. Chad, 32

     St. Clears, 168

     St. David's, 157-161

     St. David's, Bishops of, 167

     St. David's Head, 157

     St. David's, Lord, 165

     St. Dogmael's Priory, 152

     St. Idloes, 140

     St. Thomas à Becket, Chapel of, 160

     St. Tudno's Church, 87

     St. Tyssul, 150

     St. Werburgh, 51

     St. Wolstan, 302

     Salisbury Cathedral, 259

     Salisbury Hall, 5

     Saltney, 53

     Salusbury, Colonel William, 65

     Sandford-on-Thames, 308

     Sandys, Lord, 236

     Sarn Badrig, 115

     Sarn Helen Roman road, 148, 149

     Saxon Architecture, 31

     Scott, Sir Gilbert, 58, 146

     Scott, Sir Walter, 296

     Senny Bridge, 147

     Seoint, River, 107

     Severn, River, 37, 76, 132, 139, 141, 236, 247, 250

     Seymour, Jane, 316

     Shakespeare, Susannah, 288

     Shakespeare, William, 287-290

     Sherborne Park, 275

     Sherbourne, 290

     Shifnal, 36

     Shipstone-on-Stour, 286

     Shipton-under-Wychwood, 260

     Shottery, 290

     Shrewsbury, 37, 39, 76-80

     Shrewsbury, Battle of, 39, 41

     Shrewsbury, Earls of, 42, 206

     Shrewsbury, Roger, Earl of, 79

     Shropshire Union, 35

     Silurian fossils, 226, 231

     Skomer Island, 165

     Skyrrid, Great, 188

     Slate quarries, 99

     Smith, Worthington G., 17

     Smockington, 26

     Snow, Sir Jeremy, 6

     Snowdon, 84, 102, 109, 111, 115

     Snowshill Valley, 262

     Solva, 164

     Sopwell, 14

     Southam, 302

     Speen, 259

     Spencer, Earl, 22

     Stafford, Lord, 170

     Staines, 317

     Staunton, 176

     Stephen, King, 149, 178, 201

     Stivichall Common, 298

     Stoke d'Abernon, 227

     Stokesay Castle, 227-228

     Stoneleigh Abbey, 301

     Stony Stratford, 20

     Stour, River, 236

     Stourport, 236

     Strafford, Earl of, 4

     Strata Florida Abbey, 132

     Stratford, John de, 289

     Stratford-on-Avon, 287-290

     Stratford, Ralph de, 289

     Stretton, Hesba, 230

     Strongbow, Gilbert de, 130

     Stroud, 248-250

     Strumble Head, 156

     Sugar Loaf, the, 186, 188, 191

     Sugar Loaf Hills, 220

     Sutton Walls, 221

     Swift, Dean, 207

     Swift, River, 24

     Swinford Bridge, 279

     Sychnant Pass, 93

     Symond's Yat, 205, 206, 210


     Taff, River, 168

     Teifi, River, 148, 149, 150, 161

     Talgarth, 185

     Taliesin, 129

     Tal-y-Cafn, 86

     Tal-y-llyn, 123, 124

     Tamworth, 31

     Telford, 74, 82

     Teme, River, 226

     Tewkesbury, 264-268

     Tewkesbury Abbey, 267

     Tewkesbury, Battle of, 267

     Thirlwall, Bishop, 161

     Thomas, Sir William ap, 19

     Three Cocks, the, 172

     Throckmorton, John, 250

     Tintern Abbey, 202

     Titterstone Camp, 227

     Torrent Walk, the, 135

     Totternhoe, 15

     Towcester, 20

     Towy, River, 148, 171, 172

     Traeth Mawr, 113

     Trecastle, 147

     Trefnant, 63

     Trefriew, 86

     Tre-Taliesin, 129

     Trothy, River, 203

     Tryfaen, 102

     Tudor, Edmund, 160

     Tudor, Jasper, 65

     Twining, John, 217

     Twll Du, 101

     Tyler, Wat, 12

     Tyttenhanger, 6


     Usk, River, 143, 147, 186, 194, 197


     Valle Crucis Abbey, 71, 118

     Vanbrugh, Sir John, 42, 282

     Van Lead Mines, 140

     Vaughan, Bishop, 160

     Vaughans, the, 116

     Vaughans of Nannau, 135

     Venables family, 43, 183

     Ver, River, 12, 14

     Verdun, John de, 228

     Verulamium, 7, 12, 13

     Victoria, Queen, 317

     Virginia Water, 317


     Wallingford, Abbot, 9

     Warwick, 290-293

     Warwick, Earls of, 187, 292, 295

     Warwick, Guy of, 295

     Warwick, the King-maker, 4

     Waterloo, Battle of, 105, 169

     Watling Street, 14, 15, 20, 23, 25, 28, 35, 36, 44

     Wat's Dyke, 80

     Weedon, 20

     Wellington Church, 221

     Welsh Architecture, 140

     Wem, 41

     Weston Park, 35

     Weston-under-Penyard, 210

     Wheathampstead, Abbot, 9

     Whitchurch, 41, 63, 66, 206

     White Cross, 176

     Whitley Abbey, 301

     Whitney, 175

     Wicklow, Mountains of, 107

     William the Conqueror, 171, 236, 266, 315

     William Rufus, 167

     William III., 23

     William IV., 317

     Williams-Wynn, Bart., Sir H. Watkin, 72

     Willoughby de Broke, Lady, 62

     Wilton Bridge, 207

     Wilton Castle, 207, 210

     Windrush, River, 275, 276

     Windsor, 314-315

     Wistanstow, 229

     Witherley, 27

     Witney, 275, 277-278

     Woburn Park and Abbey, 19

     Wolsey, Cardinal, 318

     Wombridge, Prior of, 36

     Woodstock, 283

     Woofferton, 225

     Worcester, 236-240

     Worcester, Battle of, 6, 35, 240

     Worcester Priory, 238

     Wotton St. Mary, 270

     Wrekin, the, 36, 233

     Wren, Sir Christopher, 33

     Wrexham, 73

     Wrotham Park, 4

     Wroxeter, 37

     Wulfstan, 238

     Wyatville, Sir J., 315

     Wychwood Forest, 259

     Wycliffe, 24, 25

     Wye, River, 132, 133, 140, 172, 176, 181, 183, 203, 205, 206, 210

     Wykeham, William of, 303, 316

     Wynne, Captain, 67

     Wynne family, the, 85

     Wynnstay Park, 72

     Wytham Hill, 279


     Y Garn, 100


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discriminating as to the importance of the subject described. The
Dictionary is altogether admirable, and will prove itself useful alike
to the junior student, the nurse, the ship captain, or such as cannot
command expert attention in time of sickness or accident.'--_Glasgow
Herald._

_CAN BE HAD OF ANY BOOKSELLER._

PUBLISHED BY A. & C. BLACK, 4, 5 & 6 SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.




Awarded Silver Medal, Automobile Club Show, Richmond, 1899.

     CARLESS' STANDARD PETROL,
     THE BEST MOTOR SPIRIT MANUFACTURED.
     MOVRIL for all Pleasure Cars.
     CARBUS for Taxicabs, Commercial Vehicles, Etc.

_Either in Round or Square Cans._          _First English Manufacturers._

LUBRICATING OILS AND GREASES.

     CARLESS, CAPEL & LEONARD,
     HACKNEY WICK, LONDON, N.E.

Telegrams: 'Carless, Hackney Wick.'
Telephone: East 1310.




_Applications for Advertisements in subsequent issues of the 'Motor
Routes' Series should be addressed to the Sole Agents_--

G. Street & Co., Ltd.,

     8, SERLE STREET,
     LINCOLN'S INN, LONDON, W.C.
     _or_ 30, CORNHILL, E.C.




BLACK'S GUIDE BOOKS


=Bath and Bristol.= 6d. net.

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=Channel Islands.= 1s. net.

     Cloth, with extra Maps, 2s. 6d. net.

=Cornwall and Scilly Islands.= 2s. 6d. net.

=Derbyshire.= 2s. 6d. net.

=Devonshire.= 2s. 6d. net.

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=Dublin and the East of Ireland.= 1s. net.

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Black's Foreign Guide Books

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_These Guide Books may be obtained through any bookseller at home or
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The Pilgrimage Series

_Large Crown 8vo., cloth, price_ =3s. 6d.= _net each. Containing 32 or
more Illustrations._

=The Blackmore Country.= By F. J. SNELL.

=The Burns Country.= By C. S. DOUGALL.

=The Dickens Country.= By F. G. KITTON.

=The Hardy Country.= By C. G. HARPER.

=The Ingoldsby Country.= By C. G. HARPER.

=The Scott Country.= By the Rev. W. S. CROCKETT.

=The Thackeray Country.= By LEWIS MELVILLE.

PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK . SOHO SQUARE . LONDON, W.




Daimler


Since the introduction of the New Daimler Engine the Company have been
honoured with orders for more than =_4,200_= Cars, among the Purchasers
being:--

     H.M. THE KING
     H.M. THE QUEEN
     H.M. QUEEN ALEXANDRA
     H.I.M. THE CZAR
     H.I.M. THE DOWAGER EMPRESS OF RUSSIA
     H.M. THE KING OF SPAIN
     H.R.H. THE DUKE OF SPARTA
     H.R.H. THE CROWN PRINCESS OF SWEDEN
     H.R.H. PRINCESS HENRY OF BATTENBERG
     H.R.H. THE GRAND DUCHESS VLADIMIR
     H.R.H. THE DUKE OF CONNAUGHT
     H.R.H. PRINCE ARTHUR OF CONNAUGHT
     THE AMEER OF AFGHANISTAN

THE DAIMLER COMPANY LTD.

COVENTRY




     A 'JONES' SPEEDOMETER
     on your Car GUARANTEES
     an =ACCURATE READING= of your =SPEED= and =MILEAGE=.

(_Vide_ the Royal Auto. Club's Award in their only Official Speed
Trials.)

For =Accuracy=, =Reliability=, and =Durability=.

=_Prices from 4 Guineas upwards._=

WRITE FOR BROCHURE TO SOLE IMPORTERS:

     MARKT & CO. (LONDON) LTD.,
     6, CITY ROAD, LONDON, E.C.




     LLANGOLLEN.
     THE HAND HOTEL
     On the Banks of the Dee.

One of the most convenient in this 'Lovely Vale,' and second to none
for comfort, catering, and situation.

=60 BEDROOMS.=

=LARGE PRIVATE SITTING-ROOMS.=

ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. GOLF.

=_EXTENSIVE MOTOR GARAGE FOR 40 CARS._=

FAVOURITE STOPPING-PLACE BETWEEN LONDON AND HOLYHEAD.

=_Posting in all its Branches._=

Address--JAMES S. SHAW, Resident Proprietor,

HAND HOTEL, LLANGOLLEN.

_National Telephone No. 7._




     Clerical, Medical & General
     Life Assurance Society.
     _Established 1824._


DEATH DUTIES.

For the cheapest and most effective method of providing for these, see
the Society's

Death Duties Leaflet.


CHIEF OFFICE:

15, ST. JAMES'S SQUARE, LONDON, S.W.

TELEPHONE: 3337 GERRARD.






End of Project Gutenberg's The Motor Routes of England, by Gordon Home