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                                  THE

                            MODERN HOUSEWIFE

                                  OR,

                               MÉNAGÈRE.

                               COMPRISING

                     NEARLY ONE THOUSAND RECEIPTS,

                     FOR THE ECONOMIC AND JUDICIOUS

                 PREPARATION OF EVERY MEAL OF THE DAY,

                             WITH THOSE OF

                       THE NURSERY AND SICK ROOM,

              AND MINUTE DIRECTIONS FOR FAMILY MANAGEMENT
                          IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.

                      Illustrated with Engravings.

                                   BY

                             ALEXIS SOYER,

                AUTHOR OF "THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR."

                   EDITED BY AN AMERICAN HOUSEKEEPER.

                               NEW YORK:

                  D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 200 BROADWAY.
             PHILADELPHIA: G. S. APPLETON, 146 CHESNUT ST.

                                 1850.

      ENTERED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1849, by

                         D. APPLETON & COMPANY,

 in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District
                             of New-York.




PREFACE BY THE EDITOR.


In adapting M. Soyer's admirable receipt book to the use of American
families, I have not presumed to amend, or attempted to improve upon the
text of so accomplished a master of the art, which may with entire
propriety be called the "preservative of all arts." All that I have
ventured to do has been to make a verbal correction here and there,
necessary to render the meaning of the author more plain; to erase
certain directions for cooking different kinds of game and fish unknown
in the new world; and to omit the purely local information, and scraps
of history, which only increased the cost and bulk of the book, without,
in any way, adding to its value.

Except in one instance, nothing has been added; for the object in
republishing the MENAGÈRE, was to furnish a new and valuable work on the
preparation of food, which should contain important receipts hitherto
unknown. Every country must have its indigenous dishes, and it is to be
presumed that every American housekeeper likely to profit by M. Soyer's
receipts, will need no instruction in the art of preparing the many
excellent dishes peculiar to the United States.

It is a vulgar error to suppose that French cookery is more costly and
highly flavored than English; an examination of the MENAGÈRE will
abundantly prove that the reverse is the fact, and that M. Soyer's
system, which has rendered him famous in Europe, is not only simple and
economical, but the best adapted to insuring the enjoyment of health,
the elevation of the mental faculties, and converting the daily
necessity of eating into a source of daily enjoyment. M. Soyer's great
work, THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR, was prepared for the highest classes
of English society, and public festivals; but the MENAGÈRE is adapted to
the wants and habits of the middle classes, and, as presented in the
present edition, calculated for the use of the great bulk of American
families.

M. Soyer is the good genius of the kitchen; although he is the renowned
_chef_ of one of the most sumptuous of the London Club Houses, and the
pet of aristocratic feeders, he has labored continually to elevate the
mind, and better the condition of the poor by instructing them in the
art of obtaining the greatest amount of nourishment and enjoyment from
their food. The dietetic maxims and culinary receipts of M. Soyer are
not less needed in the United States than in England; but for different
reasons. Happily, our countrymen do not suffer for lack of raw
materials, so much as for lack of cooks; and, in the Modern Housewife of
M. Soyer, our housekeepers will find a reliable guide and an invaluable
friend.

_New York, December, 1849._




CONTENTS.


                                                                    PAGE

INTRODUCTION,

  DIALOGUE BETWEEN MRS. B---- AND MRS. L----, HER FRIEND
    AND VISITOR,                                                       1

  LETTER NO. I.,                                                       5

  LETTER NO. II.,                                                      6

BREAKFASTS,                                                            7

FIRST SERIES OF RECEIPTS,                                              8

LETTER NO. III.,                                                      26

EARLY LUNCHEONS,                                                      27

LETTER NO. IV.,                                                       27

THE NURSERY DINNER,                                                   28

LETTER NO. V.,                                                        ib.

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS,                                                33

PUDDINGS FOR INVALIDS,                                                47

POULTRY FOR INVALIDS,                                                 53

CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE,                                              55

LETTER NO. VI.,                                                       ib.

LETTER NO. VII.,                                                      56

LETTER NO. VIII.,                                                     57

LETTER NO. IX.,                                                       58

LETTER NO. X.,                                                        ib.

LETTER NO. XI.,                                                       ib.

ROASTING,                                                             59

BAKING, BOILING, STEWING, BRAISING,                                   60

FRYING,                                                               61

SAUTEING,                                                             62

BROILING,                                                             63

SAUCES,                                                               64

SOUPS,                                                                75

FISH,                                                                 93

FISH SAUCES,                                                         111

REMOVES,                                                             117

LETTER NO. XII.,                                                     120

POULTRY,                                                             143

FLANCS,                                                              158

ENTRÉES, OR MADE DISHES,                                             158

LETTER NO. XIII.,                                                    178

LETTER NO. XIV.,                                                     181

DISHES WITH THE REMAINS OF LAMB,                                     184

EGGS,                                                                216

GARNITURE FOR OMELETTES,                                             219

ENTRIES OF GAME,                                                     220

ROASTS--SECOND COURSE,                                               227

SAVORY DISHES                                                        234

LETTER NO. XV.,                                                      244

SHELL-FISH,                                                          250

VEGETABLES,                                                          253

OF DIFFERENT SORTS OF PASTRY,                                        268

JELLIES,                                                             286

PUDDINGS IN MOULDS,                                                  291

PUDDINGS BOILED IN CLOTHS,                                           293

PLAIN BAKED PUDDINGS IN DISHES,                                      294

REMOVES--SECOND COURSE,                                              296

SOUFFLE,                                                             299

DESSERT,                                                             305

LETTER NO. XVI.,                                                      ib.

COMPOTE,                                                             307

COMPOTES OF FRUIT SIMPLIFIED,                                        310

SALADS OF VARIOUS FRUITS,                                            321

LETTER NO. XVII.,                                                    327

LETTER NO. XVIII.,                                                   332

BEVERAGES FOR EVENING PARTIES,                                        ib.

LETTER NO. XIX.,                                                     334

CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS,                                   336

BILLS OF FARE,                                                       339

LETTER NO. XX.--A NEW ALIMENT,                                       345

CARVING,                                                             346

LETTER NO. XXI.--THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE,                         348

INDEX,                                                               351




INTRODUCTION.

     In the following gossipping conversation between Mrs. B---- and
     Mrs. L----, and in the two letters which follow, M. Soyer explains
     the motive of the work; and, in a natural manner introduces the
     subject.--ED.




DIALOGUE BETWEEN MRS. B---- AND MRS. L----, HER FRIEND AND VISITOR.


_Mrs. L._ I have now, my dear Mrs. B., been nearly a fortnight at your
delightful Villa, and I must say, with all truth, that I never fared
better in my life, yet I am considered somewhat of an epicure, as is
likewise my husband; but, of course, our means being rather limited, we
are obliged to live accordingly.

_Mrs. B._ Well, so must we; and I assure you that, during the first few
years of our marriage, our pecuniary resources were but small, but even
then I managed my kitchen and housekeeping at so moderate an expense
compared with some of our neighbors, who lived more expensively, but not
so well as we did, that, when any of them dined with us, they flattered
me with the appellation of the "Model Housekeeper," and admired the
comforts of our table, but would leave with the impression that I must
be the most extravagant of wives. Now, believe me, I have always prided
myself, whether having to provide for a ceremonious party or dining by
ourselves, to have everything properly done and served, that, if any
friends should come in by accident or on business, they were generally
well pleased with our humble hospitality, and that without extravagance,
as my husband is well convinced; for when we dine with any acquaintance
of ours he is very eager to persuade them to adopt my system of
management; for though he is no great judge of what is called the
highest style of cookery, yet he does not like to live badly at any
time; as he very justly says, it matters not how simple the food,--a
chop, steak, or a plain boiled or roast joint, but let it be of good
quality and properly cooked, and every one who partakes of it will enjoy
it.

_Mrs. L._ Nothing more true!

_Mrs. B._ But since you talk of limited income and economy, let me
relate to you a conversation which occurred a few years ago between Mr.
B. and a friend of his, who declared to him that his income would never
allow him to live in such luxury, which he called a comfortable
extravagance.

"Extravagance!" exclaimed Mr. B., "if you have a few minutes to spare, I
will convince you of the contrary, and prove to you that such an
expression is very unjust, if applied to my wife's management. Now, to
begin; what sum should you suppose would cover our annual housekeeping
expenditure, living as we do, in a style of which you so much approve,
but consider so extravagant? there are ten of us in family, viz., myself
and wife, three children, two female servants, and three young men
employed in my business, and including our usual Christmas party, which,
of course you know, (having participated in the last two), besides two
separate birthday parties of twenty each, and three juvenile
petits-soupers and dances for the children upon their natal
anniversaries, also a friend dropping in occasionally, which is never
less than once or twice a-week."--"Well, I do not know," answered our
friend; "but having nearly the same number to provide for, and in a more
humble way, my expenses for housekeeping are never less than £---- per
annum."--"Less than what?" exclaimed Mr. B.; "why, my dear friend, you
must be mistaken;" at the same time ringing the bell." I wish I were,
with all my heart," was the reply, as the servant entered the room;
"Jane," said Mr. B., "ask your mistress to step this way for a few
minutes; I wish to look at her housekeeping book." But being busy at the
time in the kitchen, I sent up a key for him to get it, which happened
to be a wrong one, but, upon discovering the mistake, sent up the right
one with an apology for not coming myself, as I was superintending the
cooking of some veal broth, which the doctor had ordered for our poor
little Henry, who was ill at the time. "Well," said his friend, "there
is a wife for you; I must confess mine can hardly find the way to the
kitchen stairs." "Now!" said my husband, opening my desk, and, taking up
my book, he showed him the last year's expenditure, which was £----.
"No! no! that is impossible," replied the other. "But," said Mr B.,
"there it is in black and white." "Why, good heavens!" exclaimed he,
"without giving so many parties, and also two less in family, my
expenditure is certainly greater." To which Mr. B. replied, "So I should
imagine from the style in which I saw your table provided the few days
when we were on a visit to your house; therefore I am not in the least
astonished. Here, however, is the account for the closing year just made
up to the 28th December, 1848. Let us see what it amounts to, probably
to £50 or £60 more." "So, so," replied the other, "that is an
increase;"--"Let it be so," said Mr. B.; "but you must remember that we
are twelve months older, and as our business increases, so do we
increase our comforts; and this year Mrs. B., with the children, had a
pretty little house at Ramsgate for two months, which will account for
the greater part of it."

_Mrs. L._ But, my dear Mrs. B., I am as much astonished as your friend
could possibly have been. I should, however, have liked you to explain
the matter; but here comes your husband, who will probably initiate me
in your culinary secrets.

Good morning, my dear Mr. B. I have been talking to Mrs. B. about her
system of housekeeping, who was relating to me a conversation you had
with a gentleman, who was surprised with its economy. I am also
surprised, and should like to take a few leaves out of your most
excellent book, if you will allow me.

_Mr. B._ Certainly, my dear madam; in my wife, without flattering her
too much, you see almost an accomplished woman (in hearing such praise,
Mrs. B. retired, saying, "How foolish you talk, Richard"); she speaks
two or three different languages tolerably well, and, as an amateur, is
rather proficient in music, but her parents, very wisely considering
household knowledge to be of the greater importance, made her first
acquainted with the keys of the store-room before those of the piano;
that is the only secret, dear madam; and this is the explanation that I
gave to my friend, who thought it a good jest and one of truth. I told
him to do the same by his two daughters, which would not only make them
more happy through life, but transmit that happiness to their posterity,
by setting an example worthy of being followed. I always say, give me a
domesticated wife, and with my industry I would not change my position
for a kingdom; "Very true, very true," was my friend's answer, and we
then parted.

I have never seen him since nor his wife, who was probably offended at
the economical propositions of her husband; for nothing, you are well
aware, is more common than for people to be offended when told the truth
respecting themselves; or perhaps she was too advanced in years to think
of changing her ideas of housekeeping.

I see, my dear Mrs. L., the Brougham is waiting at the gate to convey
you to the railway; allow me to see you safe to the station; you will
not have many minutes to spare, for the train will shortly be up.

About an hour after the above conversation, Mrs. L. was seen entering
her cottage at Oatlands, fully resolved to follow as closely as possible
the economic management of Mrs. B.; but a little reflection soon made
her perceive that she possessed only the theory, and was sadly deficient
in the practice: she then determined to beg of her friend a few receipts
in writing, and immediately dispatched the following letter:--


_From Mrs. L--- to Mrs. B----._

Oatlands Cottage; Jan. 1st, 1849.

     MY DEAR HORTENSE,--Upon my arrival at home, I am happy to say that
     I found all quite well, and delighted to see me, after (to them) so
     long an absence as a fortnight, which my husband was gallant enough
     to say appeared months; but to myself the time appeared to pass
     very swiftly; for, indeed, every day I felt so much more interested
     in watching closely how well you managed your household affairs,
     that, believe me, you have quite spoiled me, especially with your
     recherché style of cookery, which even now I cannot make out how
     you could do it at such moderate expense: and, apropos of cooking,
     Mr. L., expecting me home to dinner, had, I have no doubt, a long
     interview and discussion with Cook respecting the bill of fare.
     "Well, sir," I will suppose she said, "what can be better than a
     fine fat goose, stuffed with sage and ingyons; we have a very fine
     'un hanging in the larder." (You must observe, dear, that my cook
     is plain in every way.) "A very excellent notion that, Cook;
     nothing can be better than a good goose;" was no doubt, my
     husband's answer, who, although very fond of a good dinner, cannot
     endure the trouble of ordering it.

     Well, then, here I am in my little drawing-room (the window
     slightly open), enjoying the fresh country air, which seems to have
     been amalgamated with a strong aroma from the aforesaid goose,
     especially the sage and onions; and I am almost certain that the
     inseparable applesauce is burnt or upset on the stove, from the
     brown smoke now ascending from the grating over the kitchen window.
     This style is now to me quite unbearable, and I mean to have quite
     a reform in my little establishment, and first of all to bring up
     my daughter in the way recommended by Mr. B. to his friend, to make
     her more domesticated than I am myself, as I begin to perceive that
     a knowledge of household affairs is as much required as
     intellectual education; and, for my part, I have come to the
     determination of adopting your system of management as closely as
     possible; but first, you must know, that, without your scientific
     advice, it will be totally impossible; therefore I beg to propose
     (if you can afford the time) that you will, by writing, give me the
     description how you lay out your breakfast-table, with the addition
     of a few receipts for the making of rolls and the other breakfast
     bread, which I so much enjoyed while with you; even how to make
     toast, and more especially how you make coffee, chocolate, cocoa
     (tea, of course, I know). And should this meet your approbation, I
     mean to make a little journal, which may some day or other be
     useful to our families and friends.

     Until I hear from you I shall be waiting with anxiety for your
     decision upon this important and domestic subject.

Yours very sincerely,
ELOISE.


_From Mrs. B----, in reply._

Bifrons Villa; Jan. 3d, 1849.

     MY DEAR ELOISE,--In answer to yours, I agree, with the greatest
     pleasure, to contribute towards your domesticated idea, which, I
     must say, is very original, and may, as you observe, prove useful;
     but why should we confine our culinary journal to breakfast only?
     why not go through the different meals of the day? that is, after
     breakfast, the luncheon; then the nursery-dinner at One; and here
     it strikes me that, in that series, we might introduce some
     receipts, to be called Comforts for Invalids; even our servants'
     dinners and teas; then the early dinner at two or three for people
     in business, the parlor-dinner at six, the coffee after dinner, and
     even suppers for a small ball or evening party; but all on a
     moderate scale, leaving the aristocratic style entirely to its
     proper sphere.

            *       *       *       *       *

     To show my approbation of your idea, I enclose herewith the first
     receipt, _How to make Toast_.




BREAKFASTS.


When we first commenced housekeeping, we were six in family, five of
whom breakfasted together, the three young men in the shop, Mr. B----,
and myself. The cloth was laid by the servant girl at half-past seven
precisely; at ten minutes to eight I used to make tea, and at eight
o'clock we were seated at breakfast, which was composed merely of bread
and butter at discretion, fresh water cresses when plentiful, or
sometimes boiled eggs, and for variation, once a week, coffee, and if in
the winter, we had toast, which I never suffered any servant to prepare
more than five minutes before we were seated, for, if standing any time,
the dry toast becomes tough, and the buttered very greasy, and
consequently unpalatable, as well as indigestible. Twenty minutes only
was the time allowed for breakfast, after which the table was cleared,
the cloth carefully folded and put by for the next morning, for we kept
a separate one for dinner, and imposed the fine of a half-penny upon any
one who should spill their tea or coffee over the cloth by carelessness.
Such was always my plan when in business; for you must know as well as
myself, it is not only the expense of the washing, but the continual
wear and tear of the linen, which make such frequent washings so
ruinous, but my cloth used always to look clean, and I am confident that
not less than five pounds a-year were saved on that very trifling
matter, and you know we thought as much then of five pounds as we
perhaps now do of twenty.

Before partaking of a breakfast, you must provide the materials (which I
always select of the best quality), and require to know how to prepare
them. I shall, therefore, give you a series of every description of
articles which may properly be partaken of at the breakfast-table.




FIRST SERIES OF RECEIPTS.

     Perhaps some housekeepers may laugh at the presumption of M. Soyer
     in attempting to give a formal receipt for so trifling a matter as
     making a piece of toast. But, in Cookery, there are no trifles.
     Every preparation of food, however simple, requires thought, care,
     and experience. Among the unpleasantnesses of our breakfast-tables,
     there are none more common than poor toast.--ED.


1. _Toast._--Procure a nice square loaf of bread that has been baked one
or two days previously (for new bread cannot be cut, and would eat very
heavy), then with a sharp knife cut off the bottom crust very evenly,
and then as many slices as you require, about a quarter of an inch in
thickness (I generally use a carving-knife for cutting bread for toast,
being longer in the blade, it is more handy, and less liable to waste
the bread); contrive to have rather a clear fire; place a slice of the
bread upon a toasting-fork, about an inch from one of the sides, hold it
a minute before the fire, then turn it, hold it before the fire another
minute, by which time the bread will be thoroughly hot, then begin to
move it gradually to and fro until the whole surface has assumed a
yellowish-brown color, when again turn it, toasting the other side in
the same manner; then lay it upon a hot plate, have some fresh or salt
butter (which must not be too hard, as pressing it upon the toast would
make it heavy), spread a piece, rather less than an ounce, over, and cut
into four or six pieces; should you require six such slices for a
numerous family, about a quarter of a pound of butter would suffice for
the whole; but cut each slice into pieces as soon as buttered, and pile
them lightly upon the plate or dish you intend to serve it. This way you
will find a great improvement upon the old system, as often in cutting
through four or five slices with a bad knife, you squeeze all the butter
out of the upper one, and discover the under one, at the peril of its
life, swimming in an ocean of butter at the bottom of the dish.

N.B. The warming of the bread gradually through, on both sides, is a
very great improvement upon the quality of the toast; it may give a
trifle more trouble, but still it is quicker done, and much lighter.

All kinds of toast require to be done the same way, but if to be served
under a bird, eggs, or kidneys, it requires to be toasted drier.

Being in every way an economist, I have generally saved the remnants of
the loaf that have become too dry to be eaten as bread, and by just
dipping them in warm water, toasting them gradually, and buttering them,
I have generally found that they have been eaten in preference, but
their being stale is a secret of my own, which, if divulged, would
prevent their ever being eaten after.


2. _Dry Toast._--Ought not to be toasted until quite ready to serve;
when done, place it in a toast-rack, or standing upon its edges, one
piece resting against another; any kind of toast that has been made half
an hour is not worth eating.


3. _To toast Muffins_ (for Receipt, see No. 6.)--Just open, half an inch
deep, the sides of the muffins, exactly in the centre, with a knife,
then put your toasting-fork in the middle of the bottom, hold it a
little distance from the fire, until partly warmed through, when turn it
and put it again to the fire until it becomes lightly toasted, when
again turn it to toast the other side; when done, pull it open, spread a
thin layer of butter on each side, close them together; lay them upon a
plate, then with a sharp knife divide them across the middle, and serve
very hot. If more than one muffin is required, cut them all separately,
and pile them lightly one upon another, on the plate; when well
prepared, they are, in my opinion, a very great luxury, obtainable at a
trifling expense.


4. _To toast Crumpets._--Crumpets stand lower in the general estimation
of the public, probably from not being so _distingué_, and having the
misfortune to be cheaper than their sister muffins; but, for all that,
the poor ought never to be forgotten, and a crumpet toasted as follows
is not to be despised. Choose your crumpets fresh if possible, though
they are not bad after having been made three or four days; toast them
by warming both sides first, like muffins, then give them a nice light
brown color on each side, lay them in a plate, and spread some rather
soft butter lightly upon each side; cut in halves with a sharp knife,
and serve; half a pat of butter to each crumpet is quite sufficient. If
you have several to serve, lay them separately upon a large hot dish;
some people lay them one upon the other, which is a very bad plan, as it
causes the under ones to eat like a piece of dough, and such food cannot
be wholesome. Crumpets require to be toasted rather quick.


5. _To make Rolls and other Breakfast Bread._--Put four pounds of flour
into an earthen pan, make a hole in the centre, in which put three parts
of a pint of warm water, to which you add a gill of white brewer's
yeast, free from bitter, mix a little flour to form a leaven, which set
in a warm place to rise (it must be allowed to remain until the leaven
has risen and begun to fall), then add a little salt and a pint of warm
milk, form the whole into a flexible dough, which keep in a warm place
for another hour; it is then ready, and may be moulded into the form of
rolls, twists, little crusty loaves, or any shapes most pleasing for the
breakfast-table.


6. _To make Muffins._--Mix a quart of warm water in which you have
dissolved a quarter of a pound of German yeast, with sufficient flour to
form a stiffish batter, which let remain in a warm place four hours,
then stir the mixture down, and break it into pieces weighing a quarter
of a pound each, which mould round with your hands, and put into wooden
trays containing a round bed of flour for each; let them remain in a
warm place two hours to prove, when have your muffin-stove hot; have a
round piece of iron; place on the fire to get hot; set the muffins upon
it, and when nicely risen, turn them gently over, baking them upon the
stove until sufficiently set, when they are done; they will take about
ten minutes baking if the stove is at the proper heat, which is known by
throwing a little flour on it and becoming brown. Muffins may also be
made of brewer's yeast, but then they would require longer proving, and
great care must be taken that the yeast be not bitter.


7. _To make Crumpets._--Mix a gill of brewer's yeast, free from bitter,
with two quarts of water, just lukewarm, to which add sufficient flour
to make a thinnish batter, and let it stand six hours in a warm place,
when stir it well with a wooden spoon, and let it remain four hours
longer; have the muffin-stove hot, upon which lay a number of tin hoops,
the size of crumpets, pour a small ladleful of the batter into each
hoop, and when the top is covered with small bladders, turn them quickly
over (hoops and all) with a large palate knife, and in about five
minutes afterwards they will be sufficiently baked.


8. _Rusks._--Put three pounds of flour upon a dresser, make a hole in
the middle, into which put two ounces of German yeast, dissolved in a
pint of warm water, mix a little of the flour in, and leave it half an
hour in a warm place to rise, then add two ounces of powdered sugar, and
a quarter of a pound of butter, dissolved in half a pint of warm water;
mix the whole into a dough, and let it remain in a warm place until well
risen, when work it down with the hands, divide it in three pieces, each
of which form into a long roll about two inches in thickness, place them
upon a buttered baking-sheet, four inches apart, and put them in a warm
place to prove, occasionally moistening the tops with milk; bake them in
a moderate oven; when cold, cut them in slices the thickness of a penny
piece, which lay upon a clean baking-sheet, and put into a warm oven,
when well browned upon one side, turn them over, put them again into the
oven until the other side is browned, when they are done and ready for
use.


9. _Tops and Bottoms._--Make a dough exactly as described in the last,
but using only half the butter; have a deep-edged baking-sheet well
buttered, and when the dough is ready, turn it on to a dresser, well
floured; divide into small pieces the size of walnuts, which mould into
round balls, and place close together upon the baking-sheet; put them in
a warm place to prove, and bake well in a moderate oven; when cold,
divide and cut each one in halves (making a top and bottom) which brown
in the oven as directed for rusks.


10. _Buns._--Put three pounds of flour in an earthen pan, make a hole in
the middle, in which put two ounces of German yeast, dissolved in three
parts of a pint of warm water, and stir in a little of the flour,
forming a thinnish batter, let it remain in a warm place nearly an hour,
until well fermented, when add half a pound of sugar, a few currants,
and half a pound of butter, dissolved in nearly a pint of warm milk, mix
the whole well together, making a soft but dry dough; let it remain in a
warm place until it rises very light, when turn it out of the pan on to
a board; work it well with the hands, shaking flour over lightly, then
mould it into small round balls, double the size of walnuts, which place
upon a buttered baking-sheet, four inches apart; moisten the tops with
milk; put them in a warm place to prove, not, however, permitting them
to crack, and bake them in a hot oven.


11.--_Brioche Rolls._--Put four pounds of flour upon a dresser, one
pound of which put on one side, make a hole in the middle into which
pour nearly three parts of a pint of warm water, in which you have
dissolved an ounce of German yeast; mix it into a stiff but delicate
paste, which roll up into a ball: cut an incision across it, and lay it
in a basin well floured, in a warm place, until becoming very light,
then make a large hole in the centre of the three pounds of flour, into
which put half an ounce of salt, two pounds of fresh butter, half a gill
of water, and sixteen eggs, mix it into a rather softish flexible paste,
which press out flat, lay the leaven upon it, folding it over and
working with the hands until well amalgamated, flour a clean cloth, fold
the paste in it and let remain all night. In the morning mould them into
small rolls; put them upon a baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven.
Unless your breakfast party is very large, half the above quantity would
be sufficient; but these rolls being quite a luxury, I only make them
upon very especial occasions.


12. _How to choose Eggs._--New-laid eggs should not be used until they
have been laid about eight or ten hours, for that part which constitutes
the white is not properly set before that time, and does not until then
obtain their delicate flavor; that which is termed milk in eggs being,
according to my opinion, very insipid; but that entirely depends upon
fancy.

Nothing being more offensive than eggs in a state of decomposition, it
is very important that every person should know how to detect them
(especially in the winter), if, by shaking them, they sound hollow, you
may be certain they are not new-laid, and not fit to be boiled for
breakfast: but, if broken, they may prove fit for any other culinary
purpose, except for soufflés, for which eggs must be very fresh. The
safest way to try them is to hold them to the light, forming a focus
with your hand; should the shell be covered with small dark spots, they
are very doubtful, and should be broken separately in a cup, and each
egg smelt previous to using; if, however, in looking at them, you see no
transparency in the shells, you may be sure they are rotten and only fit
to be thrown away; the most precise way is, to look at them by the light
of a candle; if quite fresh, there are no spots upon the shells, and
they have a brilliant light yellow tint; in the spring of the year, it
would be scarcely excusable to use any eggs that are not quite fresh.


13. _Eggs for Breakfast,--plain boiled._--Put about a pint of water to
boil in any kind of small stewpan (or saucepan) over the fire; when
boiling, put in two or three fresh eggs, gently, with a spoon, being
particular not to crack them or allow them to boil too fast, or the
interior of the eggs would partly escape before they were set, giving
them an unsightly appearance, and entirely prevent their cooking
regularly: three minutes is sufficient to cook a full-sized egg, but if
below the average size, two minutes and a half will suffice.


14. _Eggs au Beurre: a new method._--Let the eggs boil six minutes
instead of three, then take them out, dip them for two seconds in cold
water, crack and peel off the shells, and lay them in a hot plate (they
will remain quite whole if properly done), cut each egg in halves
lengthwise, spread a little fresh butter and sprinkle a little salt over
the interior, and eat them very hot.

Eggs done in this manner are delicate and digestible.


15. _To boil Eggs hard._--Never boil eggs for salads, sauces, or any
other purposes, more than ten minutes, and when done place them in a
basin of cold water for five minutes to cool: take off their shells, and
use them when required.

Nothing is more indigestible than an egg too hard-boiled.


16. _Poached Eggs._--Put a pint of water in a stewpan, with four
teaspoonfuls of vinegar and half a teaspoonful of salt, place it over
the fire, and when boiling, break your eggs into it as near the surface
of the water as possible, let them boil gently about three minutes; have
rather a thin piece of toast, as described (No. 1), upon a dish, take
the eggs out carefully with a small slice, lay the slice with the eggs
upon a cloth for a second to drain the water from them, set them
carefully upon the toast, and serve very hot. If the eggs are fresh they
will look most inviting, but the way of breaking and boiling them must
be most carefully attended to, and care should be taken not to boil too
many together; if the yolks separate from the white it may be presumed
that the egg is not fresh, but it may be eatable, for the same thing may
happen through awkwardness in poaching.

Again, the toast upon which they are served may be buttered either with
plain or maître d'hôtel butter, or two small pats of butter may be
melted, without boiling it, and poured over, or a little melted butter
sauce, or the same with the addition of a little maître d'hôtel butter
poured over when just upon the point of boiling, or a little anchovy
butter instead of the other; thus you may be able to indulge in nice
little luxuries at a trifling expense.


17. _Toast and Eggs._--Break three eggs into a small stewpan, add a
saltspoonful of salt, a quarter of that quantity of pepper, and two
ounces of fresh butter (the fresher the better), set the stewpan over a
moderate fire, and stir the eggs round with a wooden spoon, being
careful to keep every particle in motion, until the whole has become a
smooth and delicate thickish substance; have ready a convenient-sized
crisp piece of toast, pour the eggs upon it, and serve immediately.


18. _Eggs sur le Plat._--Lightly butter a small oval dish, upon which
break two, three, or more eggs without breaking the yolks, season
lightly with a little white pepper and salt, put a few small pieces of
butter here and there upon them, and then set the dish in a small oven,
where let it remain until the whites become set, but by no means hard,
and serve hot; if the oven is moderately hot, they will take about ten
minutes; if no oven, put the dish before the fire, turning it round now
and then until the eggs are set regular. This is a most excellent dish.


19. _Omelettes_ may also be served for breakfast with great advantage,
being very relishing, especially the omelettes _aux fines herbes_, _au
lard_, and _aux champignons_, but as they are considered to belong to
the dinner, they will be given in that series of receipts.


20. _Herring Toast Sandwich._--Choose a bloater for this purpose not too
dry, which split in two, cutting it down the back; lay them upon a plate
and pour a pint of boiling water over; let them soak five minutes, when
lay them upon a cloth to dry; then broil them very gradually upon a
gridiron; when well done, which will be in about four or five minutes,
have ready two thin slices of toast, made very crisp, butter them
lightly, then take away all the bones from the herrings, lay the fleshy
parts equally upon one piece of toast and cover with the other: serve
very hot.


21. _Toast and Eggs with Herring._--Prepare your toast and eggs as
directed (No. 17), but previous to pouring the eggs over, lay the flesh
of a herring as directed in the last, and pour the eggs over that.
Herrings upon toast, with a layer of mashed potatoes over, is also very
good.

Dried haddock may also be served the same, as also may sardines, but
they being ready-cooked, are laid over cold without splitting them; they
are very delicious; if wanted hot, set them a few minutes before the
fire.


22. _Fish for Breakfast,--Bloated Herrings._--They require to be freshly
salted, for if dry they are quite rank and unpalatable; scrape them
lightly with a knife, and wipe them well with a cloth; pass the point of
a knife down the back from head to tail, making an incision about a
quarter of an inch in depth; place them upon the gridiron over a sharp
fire; they will take about six minutes to cook, of course turning them
occasionally; when done, put them upon a hot dish, open the backs, and
place half a small pat of butter in each; again close them: cooked this
way they are delicious, especially if they are real bloaters. Another
way is to cut them quite open and broil them flat upon the gridiron, and
serve quite plain; this way they are done much more quickly. Or, if nice
and fresh, oil half a sheet of white paper for every fish, in which fold
them and broil fifteen minutes over a slow fire, turning them over three
or four times, and serve in the papers. Should you have any that have
become dry, soak them about twenty minutes in lukewarm water, and
proceed as first directed. (Same process will do for red herrings.)


23. _Dried Haddock._--A very excellent thing for breakfast, but they
never ought to be cooked whole, for one side being thinner than the
other is of course dried up before the other is much more than half
done, especially the larger ones; the better plan is to cut them in
halves lengthwise, put them upon the gridiron over a moderate fire,
keeping them frequently turned, and taking the thinnest half off first;
the thickest will require about ten minutes to cook it thoroughly; when
done, spread a pat of fresh butter over, and serve upon a very hot dish.

Haddocks may also be skinned and broiled in oiled paper, but of course
would take rather more time in cooking.


24. _Whitings._--Of all the modes of preparing and dressing whitings for
breakfast I cannot but admire and prize the system pursued by the
Scotch, which renders them the most light, wholesome, and delicious food
that could possibly be served for breakfast: their method is, to obtain
the fish as fresh as possible, clean and skin them, take out the eyes,
cover the fish over with salt, immediately after which take them out and
shake off the superfluous salt, pass a string through the eye-holes, and
hang them up to dry in a passage or some place where there is a current
of air; the next morning take them off, just roll them lightly in a
little flour, broil them gently over a slow fire, and serve very hot,
with a small piece of fresh butter rubbed over each, or serve quite dry
if preferable.


25. _Slips or Small Soles._--When cleaned, season them with a little
pepper and salt, dip lightly into flour, and broil them slowly over a
moderate fire about ten minutes, or according to the size; when done,
place them upon a hot dish, pour two tablespoonfuls of cream over and
serve immediately. They may of course be served dry, but pouring the
cream over is a new and very good idea. Nothing but small white fish
could be tolerated for breakfast.


26. _Sprats_ when nicely cooked are very commendable. Dip them lightly
into flour, and place them upon a gridiron over a slow fire; when about
half done, turn them; when done (which would be in about five minutes
from the time you put them on), serve dry in a very hot dish.


27. _Meat for Breakfast,--Sheep's Kidneys._--Procure as many as you may
require for your party, about one each is generally sufficient; be sure
that they are fresh, which any person can ascertain by smelling, if not
able to judge by their appearance; cut them open very evenly lengthwise,
down to the root, but not to separate them; then have some small iron or
wooden skewers, upon which thread the kidneys quite flat, by running the
skewer twice through each kidney, that is, under the white part; season
them rather highly with pepper and salt, and place them upon a gridiron
(the inside downwards), over a sharp fire; in three minutes turn them
over, and in about six they will be sufficiently done; then take them
off the skewers, place them in a very hot dish, and serve immediately.
In opening them be careful to cut them in the centre, for should one
half be thicker than the other, one would be dried before the other was
sufficiently cooked.


28. _Kidneys on Toast._--Prepare the kidneys precisely as in the last,
but when done have ready a piece of hot toast, which butter lightly; lay
the kidneys upon it; have ready a small piece of butter, to which you
have added a little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; place a
small piece in the centre of each kidney, and when melted serve.


29. _Kidney bread-crumbed, à la Maître d'Hôtel._--Prepare the kidneys as
before, and when upon the skewer, have ready upon a plate an egg well
beat up with a fork; season the kidneys with a little salt and pepper,
dip them into the egg, then lightly cover them with bread-crumbs, put
them upon the gridiron, which place over a moderate fire, broil them
about ten minutes, turning them when half done, have ready a little
maître d'hôtel butter, put about half an ounce in each kidney, and serve
immediately upon a very hot dish; by the time it gets upon the table the
butter will be melted, and they eat very relishing; dressed this way
they may also be served upon toast.


30. _Sautéd Kidneys._--Should you not have a fire fit for broiling, put
an ounce of butter into a sauté-pan (which of course must be very
clean), cut the kidney in halves lengthwise; and when the butter is
melted, lay them in, the flat side downwards, having previously well
seasoned them with pepper and salt; set the pan on a moderate fire three
minutes, then turn them, place them again upon the fire until done; when
have ready a piece of dry toast, which place upon a hot dish, pour the
kidneys with the butter and gravy over and serve very hot, care must be
taken in sautéing that the butter does not become burnt.

Another way is to sprinkle about a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, or
onions, over them whilst being sautéd; this materially changes the
flavor, and meets the approbation of many.

For the cooking of mutton chops, steaks, cutlets, broiled fowl, broiled
bones, or remnants of poultry or game, I must refer you to where they
are given as receipts for the dinner-table.


31. _Bacon and Ham, how to choose both fit for broiling._--Ham for
broiling ought not to be too old or too dry, it would perhaps eat rank:
nothing requires more care than broiling. Either get a slice of ham
weighing a quarter of a pound or two ounces, which lay on your gridiron;
put them over the fire; it will take perhaps five minutes, if the fire
is good, and more, of course, if slow, but in that short space of time
turn them three or four times, and it is done. Proceed the same if you
want to serve it with poached eggs, but be careful that the eggs be
ready at the same time as the bacon or ham, or both would eat badly. If
you happen to have a whole ham by you for that purpose only, begin to
cut the slices in a slanting direction and the same thickness, and
proceed to the end of the ham with the remainder; it will prove more
profitable to broil with greens, peas, broad beans, &c., &c.

To sauté it, put a little butter or good fat in the pan; set it on the
fire with your slice in it, sauté very gently, turning very often, and
serve it on very thin toast.


32. _Ham and Eggs._--While your ham is doing, break two fresh eggs in
the pan, season slightly with salt and pepper, set it before the fire
till the eggs are delicately done, and slip them whole carefully into
your dish, without breaking the yolk.


33. _Bacon._--The streaky part of a thick flank of bacon is to be
preferred; cut nice slices not above a quarter of an inch thick, take
off the rind, put to broil on the gridiron over a clear fire, turn it
three or four times in the space of five minutes; this will be all the
cooking required: serve it very hot. Though this is the best part, the
whole of the bacon is still good, especially if not rank, which can be
easily detected by its yellowish color: if too dry or salt, after it has
been cut in slices, dip it into a little vinegar and water three or four
times, and sauté as usual, it will make it softer and less salt: serve
as usual. If any remain after a dinner of boiled bacon, it is also very
good broiled or fried for next day's breakfast.


34. _Sausages._--Sausages are very frequently esteemed for breakfast. By
all means, never use them, except you are confident that they are fresh.
The skin must be transparent, that the meat should be seen through; they
keep good two or three days in a cold place in summer, nearly a week in
winter (with care). For the receipt how to make them in the homely way,
see future letter.


35. _Sausages, how to cook them._--Prick them with a pin all round about
twenty times, put them on the gridiron over a gentle fire, turn three or
four times, by doing which you will have them a very nice yellow color;
dish them, and serve them very hot.


36. _Sautéd Sausages._--If your fire smokes, it is preferable to sauté
them; put some butter in the pan, with four sausages; after you have
pricked them as before-mentioned, sauté gently, a few minutes will do
them, turn them often; in many instances a thin slice of bread sautéd in
the fat they have produced is a great improvement; save the fat, as it
is always useful in a kitchen. In case you are in a hurry to do them,
throw them into hot water for one minute previously to their being
broiled or sautéd; they will then be the sooner cooked, and even eat
rather more relishing to a delicate stomach, having extracted the oil
from the skin; they may also be fried in the frying-pan.


37. _Black Puddings, broiled._--Make about six or eight incisions
through the skin with a knife, in a slanting way, on each side of the
pudding; put it on the gridiron for about eight minutes, on rather a
brisk fire, turn it four times in that space of time, and serve it
broiling hot.

I should recommend those who are fond of black puddings to partake of no
other beverage than tea or coffee, as cocoa or chocolate would be a clog
to the stomach. In France they partake of white wine for breakfast,
which accounts for the great consumption of black pudding. Now really
this is a very favorite dish with epicures, but I never should recommend
it to a delicate stomach.


     ON COFFEE.--Coffee, which has now come so generally into use,
     originally came from Arabia, where it has been known from time
     immemorial, but was brought into use in England in the year 1653;
     as it is not generally known how it was introduced, I will give you
     the account of it from "Houghton's Collection," 1698. "It appears
     that a Mr. Daniel Edwards, an English Merchant of Smyrna, brought
     with him to this country a Greek of the name of Pasqua, in 1652,
     who made his coffee; this Mr. Edwards married one Alderman Hodges's
     daughter, who lived in Walbrook, and set up Pasqua for a coffee-man
     in a shed in the churchyard in St. Michael, Cornhill, which is now
     a scrivener's brave-house, when, having great custom, the
     ale-sellers petitioned the Lord Mayor against him, as being no
     freeman. This made Alderman Hodges join his coachman, Bowman, who
     was free, as Pasqua's partner; but Pasqua, for some misdemeanor,
     was forced to run the country, and Bowman, by his trade and a
     contribution of 1000 sixpences, turned the shed to a house.
     Bowman's apprentices were first, John Painter, then Humphrey, from
     whose wife I had this account." Having examined the renter
     churchwarden's book of St. Michael, Cornhill, I find that the house
     or shed Bowman built is now part of the Jamaica Coffee-House; it
     was rebuilt by Bowman, after the fire, in 1667.

     It is a very remarkable fact that but few persons in England know
     how to make good coffee, although so well supplied with the first
     quality of that delicious berry; but, by way of contrast, I must
     say that the middle classes of France are quite as ignorant of the
     method of making tea.

     I remember, upon one occasion, whilst staying at Havre with Mr. B.,
     where we were upon a visit at the house of one of his agents, who
     invited a few of his friends to meet us at a tea-party _à
     l'Anglaise_, as they used to call it, about an hour previous to
     tea, and previous to the arrival of the guests, I was walking upon
     the lawn before the house, when my attention was attracted by a
     cloud of steam issuing from the kitchen-window, smelling most
     powerfully of tea: my curiosity led me to the kitchen, where I
     found the cook busily engaged making cocoa and most delicious
     coffee, but preparing the tea in a ridiculous fashion, the leaves
     of which were in an awful state of agitation, attempting as it were
     to escape from an earthen pot at the side of the fire, in which the
     delicious soup we had for dinner was made a few hours previously.
     (_See_ Pot-au-Feu.)

     "My dear girl," said I (in French), "what process do you call that
     of making tea? it never ought to be boiled."

     "I beg your pardon, Madame," says she, "master and mistress like it
     well done, and it will be another short half-hour before it is
     properly cooked (ce sera alors copieux)."

     "You are decidedly wrong," said I, "and I shall be most happy to
     show you the way we make it in England."

     "Yes, I know what you mean, Madame," replied she; "I used to make
     it that way before, but no one liked it, that is, to boil it one
     hour in a copper-pan over a charcoal fire." Upon which I retired,
     making a most comical grimace, to refrain from laughing at her
     still more ridiculous fashion.

     You must, however, observe that this occurred nearly twelve years
     ago, and I have no doubt but a reform has taken place since then
     by the continual traffic of the English through that part of the
     country. I must say, with respect to ourselves, we do not make
     quite such a blunder respecting coffee, but still our middle
     classes very seldom enjoy the aroma of that delicious beverage,
     which should be made as follows:

     Choose the coffee of a very nice brown color, but not black (which
     would denote that it was burnt, and impart a bitter flavor); grind
     it at home if possible, as you may then depend upon the quality; if
     ground in any quantity, keep it in a jar hermetically sealed. To
     make a pint, put two ounces into a stewpan, or small iron or tin
     saucepan, which set dry upon a moderate fire, stirring the coffee
     round with a wooden spoon continually until it is quite hot
     through, but not in the least burnt; should the fire be very
     fierce, warm it by degrees, taking it off every now and then until
     hot (which would not be more than two minutes), when pour over a
     pint of boiling water, cover close, and let it stand by the side of
     the fire (but not to boil) for five minutes, when strain it through
     a cloth or a piece of thick gauze, rinse out the stewpan, pour the
     coffee (which will be quite clear) back into it, place it upon the
     fire, and, when nearly boiling, serve with hot milk if for
     breakfast, but with a drop of cold milk or cream if for dinner.

     To prove the simplicity of this mode of making coffee, I shall here
     give a repetition of the receipt as it actually is:

38. Put two ounces of ground coffee into a stewpan, which set upon the
fire, stirring the powder round with a spoon until quite hot, when pour
over a pint of boiling water; cover over closely for five minutes, when
pass it through a cloth, warm again, and serve.[1]

     The foregoing proportions would make coffee good enough for any
     person, but more or less coffee could be used, if required; the
     cloth through which it is passed should be immediately washed and
     put by for the next occasion. A hundred cups of coffee could be
     made as here directed in half an hour, by procuring a pan
     sufficiently large, and using the proper proportions of coffee and
     water, passing it afterwards through a large cloth or jelly-bag.


39. _Coffee, French fashion._--To a pint of coffee, made as before
directed, add a pint of boiling milk, warm both together until nearly
boiling, and serve. The French never use it any other way for breakfast.


40. _White Coffee, a new style._--Put two ounces of unground coffee,
slightly roasted, into a clean stewpan, which set upon a moderate fire,
slowly warming the coffee through, shaking the stewpan round every
half-minute; when very hot, which you will perceive by the smoke arising
from it, pour over half a pint of boiling water, cover the stewpan well,
and let it infuse by the side of the fire for fifteen minutes, then add
half a pint of boiling-hot milk, pass the coffee through a small fine
sieve into the coffee-pot or jug, and serve with white sugar-candy or
crystallized sugar; it is, as you will perceive, a great novelty, and an
agreeable change; but if by neglect you let the coffee get black, or the
least burnt, do not attempt to make use of it; it should only be
sufficiently charred to break easily in a mortar if required.


41. _Coffee, made with a filter._--To make a quart; first put a pint of
boiling water through the filter to warm it, which again pour away, then
put a quarter of a pound of ground coffee upon the filter, upon which
put the presser lightly, and the grating, pour over half a pint of
boiling water, let it drain three or four minutes, then pour over a pint
and a half more boiling water; when well passed through, pour it into a
clean stewpan, which set at the corner of the fire until a light scum
arises, but not boiling; pour it again through the filter, and when well
drained through, pour into the coffee-pot, and serve with hot milk, or a
little cream, separately.


42. _Another way, more economical._--Proceed as in the last, but
draining the coffee through once only, and serve, after which pour
another quart of boiling water over the coffee-grounds, which, when
drained through, reserve, and boil up for the next coffee you make,
using it instead of water, and an ounce less coffee.

     TEA is, without doubt, one of the most useful herbs ever introduced
     into England, which was in the year of the fire of London, 1666: it
     has replaced an unwholesome and heavy drink (ale) which used to be
     partaken of previously, and has created habits of sobriety. It is
     indigenous to China, Japan, and Siam, and consists of many
     varieties, the proper mixing of which constitutes the great art of
     a tea-dealer. It is exceedingly useful in many cases of sickness,
     and particularly after having partaken of any liquor to excess, or
     after extraordinary fatigue. When new, it is a narcotic; but when
     old it has a different effect,[2] and in its native country is
     never partaken of until a year old, and not then, unless
     exceedingly desiccated. I cannot recommend you any one in
     particular, as that depends on taste; but this I advise, that when
     you have a kind to your liking, to keep to it.

     And now, my dear friend, without wishing in the least to offend
     you, or attempting to aggravate your good nature, I must beg to
     contradict your assertion made at the commencement of our
     undertaking, where you say, respecting tea, of course I know how to
     make it; you made it whilst staying at our house occasionally, and
     Mr. B. found there was a great difference between it and mine. But
     to tell you the truth respecting tea, I have a little secret of my
     own, being a discovery which I made a short time ago by accident.
     Whilst in the act of making tea, I had just put the dry tea in the
     pot, when I heard a fearful scream up-stairs in the drawing-room;
     rushing there, I found my little girl had had a severe fall in
     reaching something from the chimney-piece, the stool upon which she
     stood having upset: twenty minutes at least had elapsed before I
     returned to my tea (which, being alone, I was in no particular
     hurry for), when I found that the servant, thinking there was water
     in the pot, and fearing the tea would be spoiled, put it into the
     oven, which was rather hot; when she brought it to me, I was rather
     annoyed, when all at once it struck me that the leaves being hot
     through, the tea would not require so long to draw; I then filled
     the teapot with boiling water, and in a minute afterwards had a
     most delicious cup of tea, since which I have adopted the system
     upon all occasions, and am now having made a small spirit-lamp to
     warm the pot and leaves, as the oven is not always hot: it may,
     however, be made hot in front of the fire, but not too close of
     course. I gave the receipt to one of our neighbors, who actually
     laughed at the idea, but never tried it, saying, "We cannot teach
     anything to our grandmothers, and that what did for them would do
     for us." Now what could you say to such people? why nothing, but
     let them alone, as I shall do for the future. But you, my dear, I
     know have better sense; proceed as I have directed, and you will
     find it a great improvement. Put your tea in the pot a quarter of
     an hour before ready for it, warming both tea and pot, fill with
     boiling water, and leave it from three to five minutes to draw,
     when it is quite ready.


     CACAO was first known in Europe after the discovery of America, and
     it retains its Indian name; of course, it was first used in Spain,
     and did not come into use in England until much later; and we find
     that there was imported into England, in the year 1694, about
     13,000 lbs. weight of it; at the present day there was, in 1848,
     410,000 lbs. It is a long fruit, about five to eight inches, and
     three or four thick, which contains about thirty nuts: the tree
     grows to only a few feet in height.

     In the course of my experiments, I have found that the shell is
     almost as nutritious as the kernel, with less oily particles in it,
     which, to many, are unpleasant.


43. _Chocolate._--Scrape two ounces of the cake, which put into a stew
or saucepan, with a gill of water, upon the fire, keeping it stirred
with a wooden spoon until rather thick, when work it quickly with the
spoon, stirring in half a pint of boiling milk by degrees; serve very
hot, with sugar separate.


44. _Chocolate made in the Italian method._--Procure a regular
chocolate-pot with a muller, the handle of which comes through the lid,
one might be procured at any brazier's, put in two ounces of chocolate
(scraped), over which by degrees pour a pint of boiling milk, put on the
lid, with the muller inside, which keep well moving, setting the pot
upon the fire, and when very hot and frothy, serve.


45. _Cocoa._--Put a teaspoonful and a half of canistered cocoa into a
cup, which fill by degrees with boiling milk, stir it until dissolved,
when it is ready to serve; sugar separately.




LETTER No. III


Oatlands Cottage, Jan. 20, 1849.

     DEAR HORTENSE,--I have inclosed the whole of the receipts which you
     have sent me for the breakfasts, properly classified, having
     omitted the cold meats (as you desired me) from this series,
     thinking, as you do, they are more suited for the luncheon. To save
     useless repetition, I have placed the receipts in numbers, by which
     references can be easily made, and any dish appearing in the dinner
     or luncheon series, but available for breakfast, can be directly
     found.

     But one thing I remember when at your house was, that when the
     remains of a joint were rather large, you used to put it upon a
     side table, and let any one help themselves from it there; your
     idea being, I believe, that very few persons liked to have a large
     dish of meat before their eyes almost immediately after rising from
     their beds, or at the first meal of the morning. Respecting the way
     your table was laid out, to the best of my recollection, it was as
     follows:--First the large table-cloth, over which was laid a small
     napkin before each person, with cups and saucers for tea or coffee,
     at choice, small plates for rolls, and a size larger for meat,
     sausages, eggs, &c., a small knife and fork for each; the butter in
     a pretty freezing butter-glass, just covered with clear spring
     water, and garnished with a few sprigs of parsley or watercresses;
     the cream in a small china cream-jug, and a larger jug containing
     hot milk for coffee; orange marmalade in its original pot,
     honeycomb, watercresses, and once a few nice young radishes, which
     were excellent, although a little out of season; one day also dry
     toast was served, another day buttered, the next muffins, then
     crumpets, white and brown bread, and small rolls, thus making a
     continual change, but all so small and inviting. I shall always,
     when I have company, as you had then, arrange everything in the
     same manner, especially now that I have your receipts down. But
     when you are alone, you tell me, you never make any such display,
     which of course would be ridiculous; still even then you vary, by
     having either tea, coffee, or chocolate, which change I like as
     well as you. I eat meat but occasionally, but Mr. L---- generally
     likes a little broiled bacon, or boiled egg, things in themselves
     very simple and pleasant to have upon the table. Yours, in haste,

ELOISE.






EARLY LUNCHEONS.




LETTER


     LETTER No. IV.


     MY DEAR FRIEND,--I feel perfectly satisfied with the manner in
     which you have classified my receipts respecting the breakfasts,
     and must say I felt very much interested in looking over them; I am
     confident they would prove interesting and instructive to any young
     housekeeper; I hope, therefore, you will preserve the originals, as
     I do not keep any copies, fearing they would confuse me by making
     reference to them; so that, if at any future time I should make a
     repetition in other series, you would be able to correct me, for I
     am as willing as yourself that we should complete our work by going
     through every series comprising meals of the day.

     The next meal, then, to breakfast, in the ordinary course of
     events, is the luncheon. Although it is a meal we never touch
     ourselves, I am aware many small families make it a regular one, so
     our little journal would not be complete without some few remarks,
     which I intend making as short and concise as possible. When we
     were in business, our luncheons were comprised of any cold meats
     which were cooked for previous dinners; if a joint of cold roast or
     boiled meat, it requires to be nicely trimmed before making its
     appearance at table, but reserving the trimmings for hash, if of
     roast meat, or bubble-and-squeak, if salt beef, which is an
     excellent method of disposing of the remainder of a joint to
     advantage; if the joint happened to be cold veal, I used to send
     for a plate of ham to serve with it, unless there was a piece of
     bacon also left; if mutton, I used to dish up the leg with a pretty
     little paper frill upon the knuckle, also trimming the joint
     lightly, for you must be aware that, after four or five have dined
     from a leg of mutton, its appearance becomes quite spoiled, and
     looks blackish when cold. Pork I also serve the same; when parsley
     was cheap, I always laid a few branches round it, which used, as my
     visitors said, to make the meat look very refreshing and inviting.
     Our only addition was sometimes the remainder of game, which at
     that time used frequently to be presented to us--pheasants,
     partridges, or grouse; as it would then have been very extravagant
     to have purchased them, especially when they were so expensive. As
     an accompaniment to the meat, I always kept two different sorts of
     mixed pickles, good bread, butter, cheese, and a glass of excellent
     table ale; or, if our guest was some bosom friend or good customer,
     a bottle of sherry (not decantered), never any port, thinking that
     more fit for the dinner-table. Such was my plan in the first five
     years after my marriage: everything upon our table was of the first
     quality, and every one used to admire the neatness with which the
     table was laid out.

     My method now, when luncheon is required (as we do not dine until
     half-past five o'clock, Mr. B. being engaged until four in the
     city), I have the cloth laid at twelve, and lunch at half-past; and
     that time being just after the nursery dinner, we generally have
     some sort of pudding or tart, made at the same time with theirs.
     For cold meat, I always serve that up which has been left from a
     previous dinner, if any, or any remains of poultry, game, ham, or
     tongue. When, however, we have six or eight friends from the
     country at Christmas, I feel proud to show them my style of doing
     things well and economically, for they are very intelligent people,
     and can appreciate good living, though at home they really live too
     plain for their incomes; but they say, "We do not understand how it
     is that you make a nice little dish almost out of nothing." For
     should I have the remnants of any poultry or game not very inviting
     to the sight, I generally cut it up and show my cook how to hash it
     in a variety of ways; and I always remark, that they never partake
     of any cold meat whilst any of the hash remains. For the methods of
     making various hashes of fowl, game, hare, rabbit, beef, mutton, as
     also curries, minced veal and poached eggs, cold pies of game,
     poultry, mutton, beefsteak, or pigeon, as also plain mutton
     cutlets, steaks, and broiled bones, the whole of which may be
     served for luncheon, I must refer you to the series of receipts
     belonging to the dinner; any of these articles are placed in order
     upon the table, with the pickle-stand, two different cruet-sauces,
     orange marmalade, potatoes, butter, cheese, sherry and port wines.
     This style of luncheon will no doubt surprise you, but I can assure
     you it scarcely increases my expenditure, having the same number to
     provide for daily, so that the luncheon is generally made up from
     the remains of dinner, and the remains of luncheon will dine our
     three servants at half-past one. In the summer, I introduce a few
     dishes of fruit, and less meat; and when there are several ladies,
     I often introduce some English-made wine, which once I used to make
     myself, but which I can now buy cheaper.




THE NURSERY DINNER.




LETTER No. V


     DEAR FRIEND,--Now here I must call your especial attention to the
     way many people treat this department of domestic comfort, which is
     often very slight and irregular. Now, for my part, I have made
     quite a study of it, and could prove that health is always
     dependent on the state of the digestive organs; and that, if you
     should improperly treat young stomachs, by over or under supplying
     their wants, or using them to ill-cooked food, you not only destroy
     the functionary coating of the stomach, but also impede the
     development of the intellect. It is, then, as much a science to
     manage the food of children, as to cater for the palate of the
     gourmet, and I shall always consider that good food is to the body
     what education is to the mind.

     My plan of managing the nursery meals is as follows:--At eight
     o'clock in the morning, which was my usual time, I used myself to
     prepare that glutinous food upon which our ancestors and race were
     first reared, rather unclassically denominated pap. My method was
     very simple:


46.--Put two ounces of rusk, or tops and bottoms, in a small saucepan,
with just sufficient water to moisten them; set the saucepan upon the
fire until its contents are thoroughly warmed through; pour a little of
the water away, if too thin, pressing the rusk with a spoon; then add a
teaspoonful of brown sugar, and beat the whole with a spoon until quite
a pulp; it is then ready for use.

     I have seen some poor people in the country make it with a stale
     piece of bread, previously well dried and lightly toasted before
     the fire, and you could scarcely tell the difference from rusks;
     and you must observe, that people in a country village cannot
     always supply themselves with everything in the way of luxury; but
     look at the greater part of those country urchins,--are they not a
     real picture of health? for, after all, nothing is more
     advantageous to a delicate child than country air and country food.
     When Mr. B. and myself were staying at Boulogne for a few weeks, I
     was astonished to hear that everybody used to put their children
     out to nurse. I was so surprised, that I made every inquiry, and
     found it literally true, that even respectable tradespeople sent
     their children a mile or two in the country, some to the houses of
     very poor people: I cannot say that I approve of such a style of
     bringing up infants, but even there they seem as healthy and as
     joyful as possible. I also found there something to be learned, and
     that was, how to make French pap, which I think very nutritious,
     but which I considered at the time rather heavy for our climate;
     but having afterwards made a trial of it upon our little Henry, I
     found him doing so extremely well, that I continued feeding him
     upon it for nearly eight months, until he was old enough to eat
     other food. The following is the receipt:


47.--Put a tablespoonful of flour into a pap saucepan, to which add by
degrees two gills of milk, mixing it into a very smooth batter with a
wooden spoon; place the saucepan upon the fire, let it boil ten minutes,
keeping it stirred the whole time, or it is liable to burn or become
brown, then add about half an ounce of sugar and a little salt, put it
into a basin, and it is ready for use. A little butter is also very good
in it.

     You will observe, that it is more difficult and troublesome to make
     than our pap; but when used to it, you will expend no more time
     over it; and, as the French people say, cooking is all pleasure and
     no trouble. But what convinces me that it is more palatable and
     nutritious is, that I have seen a very robust man make a hearty
     dinner of two plates of it by introducing bread in it. I have no
     doubt that our own hasty pudding was taken from it, for the use of
     children of three or four years old, being thought too heavy for
     infants. These long details may appear rather insignificant and
     tedious to you, but I leave them to your good judgment, begging of
     you to curtail my remarks should you think proper; but, although
     you may consider that every person is acquainted with these
     domestic habits, you would find upon inquiry that very many persons
     neglect them almost entirely. Having written thus much upon the
     food of infants, we must next consider the proper diet for children
     of twelve months old, commencing with bread and milk.


48.--For which, cut about two ounces of any white bread into small thin
slices, which put into a small basin or a large breakfast cup, in a
little saucepan (only used for that purpose) have half a pint of milk,
which, when upon the point of boiling, pour over the bread; cover the
cup over five minutes, and it is ready for use.

     I much prefer this method to that of boiling the bread and milk
     together. In first commencing to feed a child upon the above, I
     always added a little sugar, which I withdrew by degrees, as I do
     not like to accustom children to too much sweets, as it inclines
     them when a little older to be always wanting or eating sweet
     stuff, which often spoils the best set of teeth; and here let me
     remark, that the finest fortune you can give to your children is
     health, and as loving mothers, whilst we have them under our
     control, it is our duty to study their little comforts, and direct
     their first steps in life in the road of happiness.


49. _Porridge._--When children are delicate, porridge is often
preferable to bread and milk. Put two tablespoonfuls of Scotch grits or
oatmeal in the milk saucepan, which moisten with half a pint of milk;
let it boil ten minutes, keeping well stirred, add a small piece of
butter and a little sugar, and it is ready for use.

     When my children were about eighteen months or two years old, I
     used to give them a little tender meat, such as boiled mutton, and
     broth, but in very small quantities, keeping still for the general
     food the bread and milk and porridge; but now they are old enough
     to eat anything wholesome (one being nine and the other ten years
     of age), their meals are composed thus:


50.--Bread and milk for breakfast at eight; the dinner at one, which was
composed as follows throughout the week: roast mutton and apple pudding,
roast beef and currant pudding, baked apples; boiled mutton with
turnips, after which rice or vermicelli pudding; occasionally a little
salt beef, with suet dumplings, plain and with currants in them, or
pease pudding; or if unwell, a little veal or chicken-broth, or beef-tea
(the receipts for which will be found in the series entitled Comforts
for Invalids).

     When in business, the first three years we could not afford to keep
     a nursery, in fact, we had no room to spare; the children then used
     to dine with us at one, but at a side-table with their nurse.


51.--They then had a little plain meat, cut small in their plates, with
potatoes, pieces of bread, and gravy, after which, three times a week,
plain rice, bread, or other plain pudding, or rhubarb or apple tart;
and, at five o'clock, their bread and milk again, previous to going to
bed.

     But if for people who could afford it, I should recommend the
     following diet-table, for nurserymaid and all:


52.--First, about two pounds of mutton well-cooked, but with the real
gravy of the meat in it, which will require about one hour before a
moderate fire, dredge it ten minutes before being done; when taken up
and in the dish, sprinkle a little salt over the meat, and pour over
three or four spoonfuls of hot water to make a little light gravy.

     Many persons will, I am aware, quite disapprove of this system of
     washing the meat: they would serve it as if it were for full-grown
     people, but you well know what would do for children as well as
     I--plain, simple, and wholesome food; I always carried out this
     system, and I now make my cook do the same.


53.--Then the next day I would give them a small piece of mutton, plain
boiled, with turnips, and apple tart; or a few slices of roast beef, or
a small piece roasted on purpose, after which a very plain currant
pudding; or, occasionally, a little pickled pork, with pease pudding, or
roast pork, with baked apples, and now and then a little salt beef, but
very well boiled, with suet dumplings, and occasionally, for change,
either bread, vermicelli, or tapioca puddings; in case of illness, and
with the approbation of the doctor, veal, mutton, or chicken-broth,
sago, gruel, panada, &c., for which refer to the receipts for invalids.

     Now the more I write the more I am convinced that, for the method
     of preparing certain articles for the children's dinners, we must
     refer to the kitchen department of receipts and receipts for
     invalids, especially as regards broth, meat, puddings, &c., or
     otherwise we should have so many repetitions; so that it would be
     better, upon the completion of the journal, to make references,
     either by numbers of receipt or page; it will be more intelligible,
     and less confused.

     Many people would, perhaps, imagine that there is too much variety
     of food for children; but it is quite the contrary, for change of
     food is to the stomach what change of air is to the general health,
     but, of course, with children, those changes must be effected with
     judgment, and their food administered in smaller quantities; but
     you must observe when children are well brought up with regard to
     their meals, they possess extraordinary organs of digestion, the
     proof of which is that they require feeding oftener than a
     full-grown person, and never appear to be tired of eating, thus, of
     course, they do not require such quantities at a time. Having here
     terminated my remarks upon the Nursery, I shall leave this scene of
     romp and confusion, to walk on tip-toe to the sick-room door, and
     carefully enter, without noise, into this mournful abode of human
     suffering and captivity, in hopes that, by watching over their
     diet, my small efforts may improve their comforts, which, by being
     properly managed, may assist in their restoration to health. I
     shall, therefore, proceed to give some receipts, entitled Comforts
     for Invalids.

     Nothing is to me more painful than to see any food ill-prepared for
     sick people, where the sense of taste is partially gone; everything
     ordered by the doctors as food, should be cooked in the greatest
     perfection, especially as everything they require is so very simple
     and easily done, that it is unpardonable to do it badly, although I
     am sorry to say that it is too often the case, even in many of our
     first hospitals and other public establishments, where they have
     provisions in abundance, and of the first quality.

     Perhaps you may fancy I am too severe upon that delicate subject,
     but I can assure you that I have for years been in the habit of
     visiting some of these institutions for the sick, and can therefore
     speak with confidence. I have grieved often to see it, and have
     wished that they would follow a system I would lay down, but there
     are some people who would not change their style, however bad, for
     a better one, for the world.

     Now I must here claim all your intelligence, for pointing out those
     receipts the accomplishing of which is most plain, and will insure
     success to those who may try to do them, and cause them to persuade
     others to follow their example. I therefore inclose the following.
     Yours, &c.

HORTENSE.




COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.


54. _Meat for Invalids._--The best meat as food for invalids is, in
fact, that which is principally used, mutton and beef, lamb, if not too
young (sweetbreads, I consider, ought oftener to be introduced), and
calves' feet or head, scalded and boiled until tender, are very
nutritious; chickens, pigeons, partridges, are also very inviting. All
the above-mentioned articles are easy of digestion, excepting perhaps
the beef, which may require to be gently stewed until tender, if for a
delicate stomach just ordered to take meat after a serious fit of
illness.


55. _Plain Mutton Broth for Invalids._--Get one pound of scrag of
mutton, break the bone with a chopper, without separating the meat, then
put it into a stewpan with three pints of water and a salt-spoonful of
salt; boil gently two hours, carefully removing all the scum and fat,
which is easily done by allowing it to simmer slowly by the side of the
fire; it will be by that time reduced to about one quart, and is then
ready to serve. This broth must not be expected to drink very palatable,
being deprived of vegetables and seasoning, being in fact more like a
beverage than a soup: at the commencement of convalescence more strength
may be given if ordered by the doctor, by reducing the original quantity
to one pint. This broth is often administered by a spoonful only at a
time.


56. _Seasoned Mutton Broth._--Put the same quantity of mutton and water
into your stewpan, add double the quantity of salt, and a quarter ditto
brown sugar, quarter of a middle-sized onion, very little celery, and
one ounce of turnip; set it upon the fire, and when beginning to boil
draw it to the side; let it simmer gently two hours; skim off all the
scum and fat, and pass it through a sieve, and use it when required.
When finished, there ought to remain about a quart of broth; but if by
neglect it has boiled too fast, add more water, and set to boil for a
quarter of an hour longer. If the patient is getting better, his medical
man will probably order him to eat a little of the meat, or even
turnips, in which case serve them on a plate separately; should the meat
not be required by the patient, it is very excellent for a healthy
person, with a few spoonfuls of onions or caper sauce, or even plain. If
pearl-barley is required to be taken with the broth, put a tablespoonful
of it in with the water when you first put it upon the fire, the whole
will then be done together; if the barley is to be eaten by the patient,
take out the meat and vegetables, and skim off every spot of grease; but
if the barley is not required, pass the broth, as before, through a
sieve.


57. _Mutton Broth (with variations). With Vermicelli._--Having made your
broth, and passed it through a sieve, as before, put the meat and
vegetables upon a plate, and the broth back into the same stewpan; when
boiling, if about a quart, add one or two tablespoonfuls of vermicelli,
depending upon the strength of the patient's stomach; ten minutes'
boiling will be sufficient to cook vermicelli.


58. _With Rice._--One spoonful of best rice in the stewpan, with mutton
and water the same as the barley, as it is better for the rice to be in
pulp than underdone.


59. _With Semoulina._--Semoulina is very delicate and glutinous, and I
am quite confident that the faculty would approve of it after a trial or
two; it is good in any kind of broth or milk for invalids, of very easy
digestion, and having also the advantage of being tolerably cheap and
quickly cooked; proceed as directed for vermicelli.


60. _With Arrow-root._--After having passed your broth, place it again
into the stewpan to boil; when boiling, put two teaspoonfuls of
arrow-root into a cup, which mix smoothly with a gill of cold broth, or
half ditto of water; then pour it into your boiling broth, which keep
stirring with a spoon; let it simmer ten minutes, and it is ready for
use.


61. _Veal Broth (French method)._--The following is much recommended by
French physicians:--Put one pound of veal from knuckle, with but very
little of the bone, into a stewpan with three pints of water and a
salt-spoonful of salt, place it over the fire to boil; when boiling,
take off all the scum; then add a small cabbage-lettuce and a few sprigs
of chervil, if handy; let simmer slowly for two hours, it will then be
reduced to about a quart; pass it through a sieve, letting the meat
drain, and it is ready to serve.


62. _Another way, more palatable._--Take the same quantity of veal as
before, which cut into small dice (as you should cut all meat if
possible), put it into the stewpan, with a small pat of butter, half an
onion, about the same quantity of carrot and turnip, a little celery,
and a teaspoonful of salt; set the stewpan upon the fire, keeping the
contents stirred, for about ten minutes, until the bottom of the stewpan
is covered with a whitish glaze, then add three pints of hot water; let
the whole simmer one hour at the corner of the fire, skim well, pass it
through a sieve, and use when required. This broth is most palatable and
very digestible, but of course only to be given to the convalescent; it
may be served with vermicelli, rice, arrow-root, and semoulina, as
directed for mutton broth.


63. _Another very Refreshing and Strengthening Veal Broth._--Put two
pounds of knuckle of veal into a stewpan, with a calf's foot split, and
the bone taken out and chopped up, add three quarts of water, a
good-sized onion, one leek, a piece of parsnip, and two salt-spoonfuls
of salt (if allowed by the doctor, if not, the salt must be omitted),
set it upon the fire, and when beginning to boil, skim, and let it
simmer at the corner of the fire four hours; twenty minutes before
passing, again skim off all the fat, and add ten large leaves of
sorrel, or twenty small, one cabbage-lettuce, and a handful of chervil,
and when done pass it through a sieve, when it is ready for use. This
broth is very cooling and nutritious when taken cold, as it is then
quite a jelly; vermicelli, rice, &c., may be added when served hot, and
the veal and calf's foot is very excellent, eaten with parsley-and-butter
or sharp sauce; but should the patient require any, it must be quite
plain, with a little of the broth and only the gelatinous part of the
foot.

The above also makes an excellent dinner soup, and if put in a cool
place, would keep a week in winter and three days in summer.


64. _Soyer's new way of making Beef Tea._--Cut a pound of solid beef
into very small dice, which put into a stewpan, with a small pat of
butter, a clove, two button onions, and a salt-spoonful of salt, stir
the meat round over the fire for a few minutes, until it produces a thin
gravy, then add a quart of water, and let it simmer at the corner of the
fire for half an hour, skimming off every particle of fat, when done
pass through a sieve. I have always had a great objection to passing
broth through a cloth, as it frequently quite spoils its flavor.

The same, if wanted plain, is done by merely omitting the vegetables,
salt, and clove; the butter cannot be objectionable, as it is taken out
in skimming, pearl-barley, vermicelli, rice, &c., may be served in it if
required.


65. _Real Essence of Beef._--Take one pound of solid beef from the rump,
a steak would be the best, cut it into thin slices, which lay upon a
thin trencher, and scrape quite fine with a large and sharp knife (as
quickly as possible, or the juice of the meat would partially soak into
the wood, your meat thus losing much of its strengthening quality), when
like sausage-meat put it into a stewpan or saucepan, and stir over the
fire five or ten minutes, until thoroughly warmed through, then add a
pint of water, cover the stewpan as tightly as possible, and let it
remain close to the fire or in a warm oven for twenty minutes, then pass
it through a sieve, pressing the meat with a spoon to extract all the
essence.

I beg to observe that here you have the real juice of the meat; but if
wanted stronger, put only half instead of one pint of water; seasoning
may be introduced, that is, a little salt, sugar, and cloves, but no
vegetables, as they would not have time to cook, thus leaving a raw, bad
flavor.


66. _Pure Osmazome, or Essence of Meat._--Take two pounds of the flesh
of any animal or bird (the older the better for obtaining the true
flavor), as free from sinew as possible, and mince it well; place it in
a Florence oil-flask, and cork it; put this in a saucepan filled with
cold water, leaving the neck uncovered; place it on the side of the fire
until the water arrives at 160° Fahr., at which temperature it must
remain for twenty minutes; then remove it, and strain the contents
through a tammie, pressing the meat gently with a spoon; should it
require to be kept for some time, put the liquor in a basin or cup,
which place in the saucepan; subject it to a boiling heat until it is
reduced to a consistency like treacle, removing the scum; this, when
cold, will become solid, and will keep for any number of years. Osmazome
is known under various names in different cookery books, as "fumet,
essence," &c., but which are obtained in a different way, which causes
the gelatine to be produced with the osmazome; but, by the above plan,
it is left in the meat, and the osmazome, with a small quantity of the
albumen, is extracted, and the albumen is afterwards removed as the
scum.


67. _Chicken Broth._--Put half a raw chicken into a stewpan, with a
quart of water, a little leek and celery, with a salt-spoonful of salt,
and a few sprigs of parsley (if allowed), set the stewpan upon the fire;
when boiling, skim well, and let simmer upon the corner for one hour;
pass it through a sieve, and it is ready for use.

The chicken would eat very nice with a little maître d'hôtel sauce, or
any other from that series would do for the parlor, that is, when the
patient is not allowed to eat it.

For a change, chicken-broth in the following way is very nutritious;
that is, after having passed the broth through a sieve, pour it back
again into the stewpan, which place over the fire; moisten a teaspoonful
of flour in a cup with a little cold broth or water, and when quite
smooth pour it into the broth whilst boiling, stirring quickly, let
simmer a quarter of an hour, and it is ready. Mutton or veal-broth may
also be varied the same.


68. _Eel Broth, very strengthening._--Take a small eel, which skin as
described, and wash well, then cut into slices, which put into a small
saucepan, just covered with water, add a little salt, a few sprigs of
parsley, two button onions, and a clove; let it simmer very gently until
the eels are tender, when skim off all the fat, pass the broth through a
very fine sieve into a cup: it is then ready to serve when required, but
a spoonful only should be taken at a time.

A patient is sometimes allowed to take part of the fish, which being so
much boiled, constitutes a lighter food than eels are in general; a
little melted butter and parsley might be served with them.


69. _Lait de Poule, French remedy for colds._--May be made from any of
the foregoing broths, and for colds is excellent. Break a fresh egg,
separate the white from the yolk, put the yolk in a basin, with a
quarter of a gill of good cream or milk, which mix well with a spoon,
have half a pint of broth boiling, which pour gradually over the egg and
cream, mixing it (as you pour the broth) with a wooden spoon; it is then
ready, and ought to be taken when going to bed, if only for a cold.


70. _Sweet Lait de Poule._--This is also reckoned very good for a cold.
Put two yolks of eggs into a cup, with two teaspoonfuls of pounded
sugar, a few drops of orange-flower water, or the eighth part of the
rind of a fresh lemon grated, beat them well together for ten minutes,
then pour boiling water gradually over, keeping it stirred, until the
cup is nearly full. Drink this very hot when in bed; I can strongly
recommend it from experience.


71. _Riz au Lait, or Rice Milk_, is a very favorite food, or soup; in
France many persons make their suppers from it, even when in a state of
perfect health. Proceed as follows: wash a tablespoonful of good rice
in water, which drain and put into a stewpan, with a pint of milk, upon
the fire, and when boiling, place it at the corner to simmer, until the
rice is quite tender, but for invalids, must be in a pulp; sweeten with
a little sugar, and it is quite ready.


72. _Rice Milk seasoned._--Proceed exactly as in the last, but when the
rice is quite tender add an ounce of butter, two teaspoonfuls of sugar,
and a little salt, stir well together, and it is then ready; this must
neither be too thick nor too thin, but about the thickness of well-made
gruel; in France they always add a few drops of orange-flower water, but
that depends upon taste. These two last are very nutritious, especially
after a long illness.


73. _Vermicelli au Lait._--Boil a pint of milk, and when boiling add
sufficient vermicelli to make it about the thickness of the last
article; it may be served quite plain if required, or seasoned as for
the riz au lait, but omitting the orange-flower water.


74. _Semoulina au Lait._--Boil a pint of milk, and when boiling add a
tablespoonful of semoulina, stirring it gently, to prevent its becoming
lumpy; let it simmer twenty minutes, and serve either plain or seasoned,
as for the riz au lait.


75. _Tapioca au Lait._--Proceed exactly as in the last, but it will
require rather longer to simmer before the tapioca is tender; and, by
way of change, add a little grated lemon-peel, or a glass of white wine,
if allowed by the doctor, or season as for the last.


76. _Arrow-root._--Put two teaspoonfuls of arrow-root, which mix
gradually with enough water or milk, stirring it with a spoon, let it
boil a few minutes, and if made with milk, add only a little butter,
sugar, and salt, or serve plain; but if made with water, add the eighth
part of the rind of a fresh lemon to boil with it; when done add a glass
of port or sherry, sugar, a little salt, and a small piece of butter,
unless prohibited.


77. _Gruel._--Put two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal or prepared groats into
a stewpan, and by degrees add a pint of water, mixing smoothly with a
wooden spoon, place it upon the fire, keeping it well stirred, until it
has boiled a couple of minutes, when pour it into a basin, add half a
salt-spoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of brown sugar, and two ounces
of butter, the latter especially, if for a cold in the chest, even more
than that quantity, if the stomach is strong enough to bear it.

Gruel when properly made ought to adhere rather thickly to the back of
the spoon, but not to be pasty; it ought, likewise, to be eaten directly
it is made, or it becomes thick and unpleasant to eat; if required
plain, omit all the seasoning; it might also be made of milk.


78. _Gruel from Scotch Groats._--Proceed as above, but adding rather
more water, and boiling a few minutes longer; many people prefer eating
it with the rough groats in it, but if objectionable, place a small
clean sieve over the basin you intend serving it in, pass the gruel
through, and season as in the last. Some people add spirits or wine; but
that I should never recommend any one to do, unless by the doctor's
orders, and that would be but very seldom, especially as regards
spirits.


79. _Sago Gruel._--Put two tablespoonfuls of sago into a small saucepan,
which moisten gradually with a pint of cold water, set it over a slow
fire, keeping it stirred until becoming rather thickish and clear,
similar to a jelly, then add a little grated nutmeg and sugar according
to taste, and serve; half a pat of butter might also be added with the
sugar, or it might be made with new milk, and a little salt added, and a
glass of wine in either case makes it more palatable.


80. _Arrow-root, Transparent Jelly._--Put a good teaspoonful of
arrow-root into a basin, which mix smoothly with two spoonfuls of water,
then add enough boiling water to make it about the consistency of
starch, stirring all the time, pour it into a stewpan, and stir over the
fire until it has boiled two minutes; add a little cream, a small glass
of wine, and a little sugar, and serve.


81. _French Panada, for aged people, invalids, and children._--Break a
stale penny roll into a saucepan, in which pour just sufficient water to
cover the bread, stir well over the fire, allowing it to boil five
minutes, then add half a teaspoonful of salt, and two ounces of fresh
butter, mix them, and take from the fire; have one yolk of egg well
beaten, with two tablespoonfuls of milk (if handy) or water, which pour
into the panada, stirring very quickly for half a minute, it is then
ready to pour into a basin and serve. Any common bread would do for
panada, but would not eat so light as when made from a roll.

I knew a very aged lady in France who accustomed herself to eat a basin
of panada every night, a few minutes previous to going to bed, for a
period of eighteen years, which will prove that, although very
substantial in appearance, it must be very easily digested.

Panada ought to be rather thicker than gruel, and may likewise be made
of milk, but water is preferable, especially when for bilious people.


82. _Barley Water._--Put half a gallon of water into a very clean
saucepan, with two ounces of clean (but unwashed) pearl barley, when
boiling, carefully skim it with a tablespoon, and add half the rind of a
small lemon, let it boil until the barley is quite tender; sweeten with
half an ounce of white sugar, strain it through a fine hair sieve, and
use when required. The juice of half a lemon in some cases may also be
introduced.


83. _Rice Water._--Put a quart of water to boil in a saucepan, with a
handful of clean rice (but not washed), place it upon the fire, and let
boil gently until the rice is quite in a pulp, then pass it through a
hair sieve into a jug, pressing as much of the rice through as possible,
and when getting cold, sweeten moderately with honey, which will make it
very palatable; it should be drunk lukewarm.


84. _A New Drink._--Put half a gallon of water upon the fire, and when
boiling, have ready four pippin apples (quite ripe), cut each apple into
eight slices, without peeling them, throw them into the water, which
keep boiling until the apples are quite soft, pass the water through a
sieve, pressing the apples gently against the side of the sieve, but not
rubbing them through, add enough honey to make it a little sweetish, and
drink lukewarm.

Two apples thrown into the rice-water and boiled the same would be a
great improvement. People in good health would much enjoy such drink,
during the summer especially; as also would poor people in the country,
where apples are plentiful. Any kind of apples would suit, and brown
sugar instead of honey, or even no sugar at all.


85. _Cooling Drink._--Bake four or six apples, without peeling them;
when done and quite hot, put them into a jug, and pour over three pints
of boiling water; cover the jug over with paper, and when cold it is
ready for use; a spoonful of honey or brown sugar added makes it very
palatable.


86. _Almond Water._--Put five ounces of sweet and two of bitter almonds
into a saucepan, with a pint of hot water, set them upon the fire, and,
when boiling, strain them upon a sieve, take off their skins, and set
them in spring water to cool, then dry them upon a cloth, pound them in
a mortar until very fine, adding a few drops of water occasionally, to
prevent their becoming oily, set a pint of syrup to boil, when throw in
the mashed almonds; boil together a minute, then set it at the corner to
simmer for a quarter of an hour; it is then ready to pass through a fine
sieve for use. When required, add any quantity of cold water you please
to make it palatable, according to taste or direction.


87. _Barley Lemonade._--Put a quarter of a pound of sugar into a small
stewpan, with half a pint of water, which boil about ten minutes, or
until forming a thickish syrup; then add the rind of a fresh lemon and
the pulp of two; let it boil two minutes longer, when add two quarts of
barley-water, from which you have omitted the sugar and lemon; boil five
minutes longer, pass it through a hair sieve into a jug, which cover
with paper, making a hole in the centre to let the heat through; when
cold, it is ready for use; if put cold into a bottle and well corked
down, it would keep good several days.

_Barley Orangeade_ is made the same, substituting the rind and juice of
oranges; the juice of a lemon, in addition, is an improvement, when
taken as a refreshing beverage.


88. _A Refreshing Beverage._--Slice two oranges and one lemon, which put
into a jug, with two ounces of sugarcandy, over which pour one quart of
boiling water; stir it occasionally until cold, when drink it a little
at a time, as often as ordered by the medical attendant. This drink is
also very excellent for persons in health, especially in warm weather.


89. _Raspberry Vinegar Beverage._--Put two tablespoonfuls of raspberry
vinegar into a cup, over which pour half a pint of boiling water; when
cold, use it as you may be instructed or when necessary; any kind of
fruit syrup would answer the same purpose, and be equally as good, that
is, currants, cherries, strawberries, mulberries, &c.


90. _A very Strengthening Drink._--Put a teacupful of pearl-barley into
a saucepan, with three pints of cold water, the rind of a lemon and a
small piece of cinnamon; boil the whole very gently until the barley
becomes tender, when strain it through a fine sieve, and sweeten with a
spoonful of treacle: if treacle should be objectionable, honey or sugar
will do.


91. _Fresh Fruit Water._--Fresh fruits, when in season, are very
preferable to syrups, which are but seldom well made, except at some of
the first confectioners or Italian warehouses.

Pick a bottle of fresh raspberries or strawberries, whichever you may
require, rub them through a sieve into a basin, which mix well with half
a pint of syrup, the juice of a lemon, and a quart of spring water; pass
it through a fine hair sieve, and put it by in a jug for use; both the
syrup and water may either be increased or diminished according to
taste.

Red or white currant waters are made precisely the same, only omitting
the lemon, the currants themselves being sufficiently sharp.


92. _Cherry Draught._--Choose a pound of good fleshy cherries, from
which take the stalk and stones, have a pint of syrup boiling, into
which throw them, to boil as fast as possible for ten minutes, then take
them from the fire, and add a good wine-glassful of Madeira or sherry,
and a quart of boiling water; put it into a jug, with a cup over; when
cold, pass it through a sieve, and it is ready for use: the wine may be
omitted if not required. A drink of the same description may likewise be
made from mulberries, but then a little lemon-juice must be added.


93. _Arrow-root Water._--Put half a gallon of water to boil with two
apples, the same as in No. 84, with the addition of a stick of cinnamon;
let the whole boil half an hour, then mix two large spoonfuls of
arrow-root with half a pint of cold water, very smoothly, and pour it
into the boiling water: let the whole boil ten minutes, and pass it
through a sieve; when cold, it will drink light and thickish.


94. _French Herb Broth._--This is a very favorite beverage in France, as
well with people in a state of health as with invalids, especially in
the spring, when the herbs are young and green. Put a quart of water to
boil, but have previously prepared about forty leaves of sorrel, a
cabbage-lettuce, and ten sprigs of chervil, the whole well washed; when
the water is boiling, throw in the above, with the addition of a
teaspoonful of salt and half an ounce of fresh butter; cover your
saucepan close, and let them simmer a few minutes, then pass it through
a sieve or colander. This is to be drunk cold, especially in the spring
of the year, after the change from winter. I generally drink about a
quart per day for a week, at that time; but if for sick people, it must
be made less strong of herbs, and taken a little warm. To prove that it
is wholesome, we have only to refer to the instinct which teaches dogs
to eat grass at that season of the year. I do not pretend to say that it
would suit persons in every malady, because the doctors are to decide
upon the food and beverage of their patients, and study its changes as
well as change their medicines.


95. _Dry Plum Beverage._--Put a quart of water in a saucepan upon the
fire, and, when boiling, throw in twelve fresh dry French plums, and let
them boil twenty minutes, then pour them in a basin with the liquor to
cool; when cold, take out the plums, which put into a basin; add two
tablespoonfuls of brown sugar and a very small quantity of port wine.
They are excellent to eat, and the liquor to drink.


96. _Figs and Apple Beverage._--Have two quarts of water boiling, into
which throw six fresh dry figs, previously opened, and two apples,
previously cut into six or eight pieces each; let the whole boil
together twenty minutes, then pour them together into a basin to cool,
then pass through a sieve; drain the figs, which will be also good to
eat.


97. _Stewed Plums._--Put twelve French plums in a stewpan, with a
spoonful of brown sugar, a gill of water, a little cinnamon, and some
thin rind of a lemon; let them stew twenty minutes, then pour them in a
basin until cold, take them from their syrup and eat them dry. They are
sometimes stewed in wine and water, either port, sherry, or claret.


98. _Baked Apples_ are very much used by invalids: have a common yellow
dish, such as you frequently see in farmhouses, into which put about
twelve apples (previously well wiped) and about a gill of water, and put
them in a hot oven for half an hour, or rather more should the apples be
large; when well done, take them out to get cold upon the dish, and eat
them cold, either with powdered lump or moist sugar.


99. _Cooling Lemonade._--Put a quart of water in a stewpan to boil, into
which put two moist dried figs, each split in two; let it boil a quarter
of an hour, then have ready the peel of a lemon, taken off rather
thickly, and the half of the lemon cut in thin slices; throw them into
the stewpan and boil two minutes longer; then pour it into a jug, which
cover closely with paper until cold, then pass it through a sieve: add a
teaspoonful of honey, and it is ready for use.


100. _Imperial, a cooling Drink for the Spring._--Two ounces of cream of
tartar, two lemons, juice and peel, four ounces of sugar; place in a
stone jug, and pour about six quarts of boiling water; allow it to get
cold, and bottle for use; or, instead of sugar, add three tablespoonfuls
of raspberry vinegar, and six ounces of honey. This is excellent
aerated-like soda water. Essence of ratafia, or any other, may be added,
with about half a pint of pure spirit at proof, for those accustomed to
spirits.


101. _Orangeade._--Proceed as for lemonade, but using the whole of the
orange, a little of the peel included, sweetening with sugar candy, and
adding a teaspoonful of arrow-root mixed with a little cold water, which
pour into the boiling liquid at the same time you put in the orange. The
arrow-root makes it very delicate.


102. _Toast and Water._--The ease and simplicity of making this popular
drink is probably the cause of its not being well made one time in ten,
that is, in private families; the bread is too much or too little done,
or there is too much or not half enough water, or more or less bread; I
venture to say that if any person would take the trouble to go from
house to house, where there are patients, and taste toast and water at
each, they would not find two of the same flavor, and perhaps not any of
it properly made. To make it to perfection, proceed as follows: cut a
piece of crusty bread, about a quarter of a pound in weight, place it
upon a toasting-fork, and hold it about six inches from the fire; turn
it often, and keep moving it gently until of a light yellow color, then
place it nearer the fire, and when of a good brown chocolate color, put
it into a jug, and pour three pints of boiling water over; cover the jug
until cold, then strain it into a clean jug, and it is ready for use:
never leave the toast in it, for in summer it would cause fermentation
in a short time. I would almost venture that such toast and water as I
have described would keep good a considerable time in bottles.

The idea that bread must be burnt black to make toast and water is quite
a popular delusion, for nothing nourishing could come from it: if your
house was burnt to ashes, it would be valueless; and the same with burnt
bread, which merely makes the water black, but the nutriment of the
bread, intended to relieve the chest, has evaporated in smoke by being
burnt.




PUDDINGS FOR INVALIDS.


103. _Apple and Rice._--Boil half an ounce of Carolina rice in a gill of
milk until very tender, then add a very small piece of butter, sugar, a
little cinnamon, and a grain of salt; then peel, core, and slice a
middling-sized apple, which put into a stewpan, with a small piece of
butter, a little sugar, and a drop of water, and stew it until tender;
when done, put the apple in a small tart-dish, mix an egg with the rice,
which pour over the apple, and bake ten minutes in a moderate oven; it
may also be made quite plain, if preferred.


104. _Custard Pudding._--Boil one pint of milk, with a small piece of
lemon-peel and half a bay-leaf, for three minutes; then pour these on to
three eggs, mix it with one ounce of sugar well together, and pour it
into a buttered mould: steam it twenty-five minutes in a stewpan with
some water (see No. 112), turn out on a plate and serve.


105. _Rice Puddings._--Wash well two ounces of rice in some water,
strain, then put it into a pint and a half of boiling milk, with a small
piece of lemon-peel, cinnamon, and half a bay-leaf, tied together; let
it boil gently, stirring it occasionally, until quite tender; then put
to it one ounce of butter, a little grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of
sugar, and two eggs; pour it into a buttered tart-dish, and bake it half
an hour.


106. _Macaroni Pudding._--Blanch two ounces of Naples macaroni in some
water for eight or ten minutes; strain it, add it to one pint of boiling
milk, in which you have previously boiled a piece of lemon-peel,
cinnamon, and one ounce of butter; when the macaroni is quite tender,
add two eggs and sugar enough to sweeten it: steam it one hour in a
stewpan, in a buttered tart-dish.


107. _Vermicelli Pudding._--Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of
lemon-peel, half a bay-leaf, and a piece of cinnamon, then add one ounce
of vermicelli; when reduced to half, add two eggs, and a little sugar;
pour these in a buttered mould, and steam it half an hour.


108. _Tapioca Pudding._--Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of
lemon-peel and a little cinnamon; then add two ounces of tapioca; reduce
to half; add two eggs, and one ounce of butter; pour these in a buttered
mould, and steam half an hour.


109. _Bread Pudding._--Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of cinnamon
and lemon-peel; pour it on two ounces of bread-crumbs; then add two
eggs, half an ounce of currants, and a little sugar: steam it in a
buttered mould for one hour.


110. _Cabinet Pudding._--Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of
lemon-peel, pour it on one ounce of sponge biscuit, let it soak half an
hour, then add three eggs, half an ounce of currants, and very little
sugar: steam it in a buttered mould, lined with raisins, one hour.


111. _Bread and Butter Pudding._--Butter a tart-dish well and sprinkle
some currants all round it, then lay in a few slices of bread and
butter; boil one pint of milk, pour it on two eggs well whipped, and
then on the bread and butter; bake it in a hot oven for half an hour.


112. _A Small Bread Pudding._--Cut an ounce of the crumb of bread into
thin slices, with the least piece of butter spread over each, which
place in a small tart-dish; then break an egg into a cup with a
teaspoonful of sugar and a little powdered cinnamon, beat well; then add
about six tablespoonfuls of boiled milk, mix well together, pour over
the bread, and bake in a slow oven, or steam it, if preferred, by
standing the dish in a stewpan containing about half a pint of water,
that is, the water should be about half way up to the rim of the dish;
set the stewpan (covered close) upon the fire, and let it slowly boil
about ten minutes or longer, until the pudding is properly set, then
take the cover from the stewpan, which let remain a few minutes longer
upon the fire; then take out the pudding, wipe the dish, and serve.


_Fish for Invalids._--Slips, soles, flounders, whitings, and smelts are
the lightest of any fish, and upon that account more to be recommended
to invalids in a state of convalescence.


113. _Whiting, plain boiled._--Put two quarts of water into a small fish
kettle, with about an ounce of salt; when boiling, put in the whiting,
draw the kettle to the corner of the fire to keep it just simmering, and
no more; a whiting of the ordinary size would take about ten minutes;
when done, which you can tell by trying with the point of a knife
whether it leaves the bone easily, take it up carefully, and dish it
upon a clean napkin, with a few sprigs of parsley round; although the
parsley is of course useless as far as the stomach is concerned, nothing
can be more pleasing to an invalid than to see his meals carefully
cooked and invitingly served.

At any time I prefer a whiting with the skin on, whether boiled,
grilled, or fried; a little butter just melted, with a pinch of salt,
and the least drop of lemon-juice added, is very excellent to eat as
sauce with them. Should you purchase your fish in the country, it will
of course require cleaning, by opening the belly and pulling out the
gills and interior; but never wash these fish, merely wipe them with a
cloth.


114. _Broiled Whiting._--Having cleaned your whiting, and wiped it
gently dry with a cloth, flour it all over lightly, rub the gridiron
over with a little oil, lay the whiting upon it, and put it over a clear
fire, but not too close, turn it carefully three or four times, and when
it feels firm to the touch of the finger, it is done; if a large one, it
will take about twenty minutes; sprinkle a little salt over, if
required, and serve with plain melted butter, with a few drops of
essence of anchovies in it.


115. _Sautéd Whitings._--Put some fat or butter in a frying-pan, which
place over a clear but moderate fire; have your whiting floured as in
the last, and when the fat or butter is melted, lay it in the pan; let
it sauté slowly until it is done, which try as in either of the last
two; when done, drain it upon a cloth, sprinkle a little salt over, and
serve.

If fried, enveloped in bread-crumbs, dip the fish lightly into flour,
then egg it all over with a paste-brush, and dip in some very fine
bread-crumbs, and fry it rather longer, but do not let the fat get
black, or it will give the fish a black, heavy appearance, and quite
spoil the flavor. Fish fried in oil would have a much better appearance
than when fried in fat, but probably would be objectionable to a weak
stomach. They ought to be completely covered with the fat.


116. _Smelts_ are very delicate fish, but ought never to be plain
boiled; being confident of the good use they may be turned to as a diet
for the sick, I shall here give two receipts for dressing them very
plainly, yet still very palatable. Choose them rather large,--if so, two
would be sufficient for a meal,--having previously drawn and cleansed
them, put a gill of water into a small stewpan, with a little salt, a
saltspoonful of powdered sugar, and four small sprigs of parsley; when
boiling lay in your smelts, which let simmer five minutes, or more, if
larger than usual, keeping the stewpan well covered; then take them out
carefully, lay them upon a dish, and pour the broth over; both fish and
broth are excellent. They may be cooked the same way in the oven.

Another way is to add a little arrow-root, mixed with a drop of cold
water, to the above, when half cooked; it makes it very soothing to the
chest. Be extremely careful not to let the fish or liquor burn at the
bottom of the stewpan; there should be about three parts of the quantity
of liquor when cooked as you first put in water, allowing one quarter to
evaporate whilst boiling.


117. _Broiled Smelts._--When cleansed and wiped dry with a cloth, dip
them lightly into flour, and put them upon a gridiron over a slow fire,
for five, or six minutes, turning them carefully when half done; serve
plain, or with a little sauce, if allowed, as many patients are
forbidden moist food. I can highly recommend any kind of white fish
cooked in this manner; and it is well known that nothing in the way of
food is more digestible than fish.

Water souchet of flounders, soles, and slips may also be served to
invalids, by proceeding the same as above.


_Meat, Game, and Poultry,_ of every kind, for invalids, ought to be
served as free from fat as possible.


118. _A Mutton Chop._--Choose one from a lean loin of mutton, or if one
in the house rather fat cut the greater part of it off; your chop should
be about six ounces in weight, and cut off an equal thickness; lay it
upon a table, and beat it lightly with the flat part of your chopper,
then lay it upon a gridiron, over a good clear fire; season with a
little salt, if allowed, and turn it four or five times whilst broiling;
it will require about eight minutes over a good fire, but of course
longer over an indifferent one; if by pressing it with a knife it feels
firm, it is done; serve upon a very hot plate, for if partly cold, the
least fat would immediately set, and be very unpleasant, especially to a
person unwell.


119. _Plain Mutton Cutlet, from the Neck._--An invalid will frequently
be tired of a mutton chop; and for my own part I must say a cutlet is
far superior in flavor, and has a much neater appearance; cut off a rib
from the neck, of the same thickness as a mutton chop; cut away the skin
upon each side of the bone, to the chine, which chop off; trim away the
greater part of the fat, cut a piece at the end of the bone, which
scrape off, leaving about half an inch of the bone bare; then beat it
lightly with the flat of the chopper; season; broil and serve very hot,
as in the last.


120. _Stewed Chop or Cutlet._--Put it into a stewpan or small saucepan,
with a pint of water, and a little salt and sugar; let it stew as gently
as possible from an hour and a half to two hours, skim off all the scum
and fat, and the patient may partake of both chop and broth; if
seasoning is allowed, put a teaspoonful of pearl-barley, with a little
celery, leek, and turnip, cut up very small, into the stewpan with the
water, when you first put the chop on, and proceed as before; serve the
broth in a soup basin, with the chop in it; should the meat happen to be
tough, let it stew rather longer; the broth should be reduced to about
half a pint.


121. _Beef, Rump Steak._--The tenderest part of the rump should be
selected, about half a pound, not cut too thick, and very even; place it
upon your gridiron over a moderate fire, turning it frequently; when
done, sprinkle a little salt over; ten minutes would cook it thoroughly,
but if wanted underdone, as in many cases where the patient only sucks
the gravy, less time must be allowed.


122. _Stewed Beef._--Put the same quantity of beef as in the last into a
saucepan, with a quart of water, which place over the fire, and when
beginning to boil, well skim, then add a little celery, turnip, and
carrot, the whole weighing about an ounce, and cut very small, let stew
gently about three hours, by which time the broth will be reduced to one
quarter; skim all the fat off carefully; serve the meat upon a plate,
and the broth in a basin.


123. _Lamb Chops or Cutlets._--Proceed as just described for mutton, but
being more delicate, they will require but little more than half the
time to cook.


124. _Lambs' Feet_ are very nutritious; purchase them ready cleaned; lay
them ten minutes in boiling water, by doing which you will be able to
draw out the leg-bone with facility; then put them in a stewpan (two
would be sufficient), and pour over a pint of water with which you have
mixed smoothly a tablespoonful of flour, and half a teaspoonful of salt;
place them upon the fire, stirring frequently until boiling, when add a
small onion, with a celery, parsley, and parsnip; boil gently for two
hours, and when done, serve plain upon a plate, or with a little melted
butter and parsley poured over. By using a little white broth from any
meat instead of water, you make a delicious soft soup, which may be
partaken of freely.

Calves' feet are dressed in the same manner, but using a double
proportion of everything, and stewing them double the time; they are
served precisely the same.




POULTRY FOR INVALIDS.


125. _Roast Chicken._--Procure a nice plump chicken, which draw and
truss, and cut the sinews; pass the spit through under the skewer as
usual, and set it down before a clear fire; after being there five
minutes, have ready a pat of butter, in the bowl of a wooden spoon, with
which rub the chicken all over; if the fire is too fierce, put it back a
short distance, that it may roast of a yellowish-brown color; when a
light smoke arises from the chicken, which will be in about twenty
minutes from the time it was put down, it is done; but to be quite sure
whether a bird is done, the better way is to press it lightly, with your
finger and thumb; should it feel quite set, it is sufficiently cooked.

126. _Boiled Chicken._--Put a quart of water to boil in a saucepan, with
a saltspoonful of salt, and two ounces of butter; when boiling, lay in
the chicken, which keep gently simmering for twenty minutes, when it
will be done.

By adding a few vegetables of each description to the water, and
straining it when you take out the chicken, you have a very excellent
broth either for the sick or healthy, especially after skimming off the
fat you add a little vermicelli, which must be boiled in it five
minutes.

As it is very improbable that a sick person would eat the whole of a
chicken at once, I have annexed a few receipts, by which a chicken would
suffice for four meals.

First, put a tablespoonful of rice in a stewpan, with half a pint of
light broth; let it boil gently until the rice is in pulp, then put in
the wing or leg of the previously-cooked chicken, which let remain to
warm about five minutes; should the rice be too dry, add a little more
broth; serve the fowl and rice together upon a hot plate. Secondly, if
wanted plain, set it in a stewpan, with a few spoonfuls of stock, and
let it warm gently. Thirdly, it may be folded in a sheet of paper
lightly oiled, and warmed very gently upon a gridiron. Or fourthly,
plain broiled upon a gridiron, and served with a little light gravy.


127. _Partridge._--Proceed in every manner to roast as just directed for
the chicken; a young one would require about ten minutes, or an old one
fifteen, but then the breast only ought to be eaten; whatever remains
may be served in either of the ways directed for chickens.


128. _Pigeons_ may be roasted the same as partridges, but would not
require so long. A pigeon may also be stewed as follows:--Put half a
pint of mutton-broth into a stewpan, with a pigeon trussed as for
boiling, let it stew gently twenty minutes, if young; both the pigeon
and broth ought to be partaken of. Pigeons may also be broiled, by
cutting them open from the bottom of the breast to the joint of the
wings, but not separating them; rub over with a little butter, broil
twenty minutes over a moderate fire, and serve with a little gravy.


129. _Pulled Fowl._--With the remainder of a roast or boiled fowl or
chicken you may make a very light dish, by pulling off all the flesh
with a fork, and putting it into a stewpan, then in another stewpan
place all the bones (previously broken small with a chopper), with a
little parsley, salt, sugar, and half a pint of water; let it boil
gently until the water has reduced to a gill, then strain it over the
flesh of the chicken in the other stewpan, which place over the fire
until quite hot, and serve; should it be too thin, a small piece of
butter and flour rubbed together may be added, and boiled a minute. Old
or young fowls may be used, as it is not always convenient to get a
young fowl, especially in the country, where everything must be turned
to account and properly used: you would proceed with an old fowl the
same as for a chicken, but stewing it three times as much, and adding
more water in proportion; it would be here impossible to name the exact
time required, as the fluctuation is so great, but by feeling the thigh
of the fowl with the finger and thumb, you may ascertain, for if done
sufficiently it will feel tender to the touch, and leave the bone with
ease.




CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE.




LETTER No. VI


     DEAREST ELOISE,--I here inclose you the last receipt which I intend
     to give you for invalids. You will, no doubt, fancy that my diet is
     extravagant; but let me teach you that when you must pay the
     doctor's bill, which I consider an extra and painful tax upon
     humanity, it is ours and their duty to try to restore health as
     soon as possible, which my receipts might, if well coupled with the
     science of a medical man, cause a prompt restoration, and have the
     desired effect of increasing the butcher's bill by diminishing that
     of the doctor. But I must also tell you that I intend this part of
     our little work, if ever published, to be useful to all classes of
     society, and that, among those receipts, the rich as well as the
     humble, may partake and benefit by them in selecting according to
     their means and their requirements. I am confident that you will
     agree with me that even here I have closely studied the rules of
     economy.

     I shall therefore close the sick-room door to open the one of the
     parlor, and to witness the merry faces of the million who have
     abandoned their industrious occupations for the day, and partake,
     in the family circle, their simple but substantial Sunday meal. I
     always used to say, when in business, that he who works well
     deserves to live well,--I do not mean to say extravagantly, but
     that devoting one hour a day to their principal meal ought to be
     classified as a matter of business in regard to economy. We,
     therefore, must be very positive upon this important question, and
     make them perceive that dining well once or twice a week is really
     unworthy of such a civilized and wealthy country as ours, where
     provisions cannot be excelled by any other, both in regard to
     quantity and quality. Yours, etc.

HORTENSE.






LETTER No. VII


     MY DEAR MRS. B.--Your observation upon the way many people live in
     this country is no doubt very correct, but do you not think that if
     you were not quite so abrupt on the subject, we should probably be
     more likely to succeed in bringing our friends round to your style
     of management; of which, for my part, I very much approve. But as
     it is a matter of importance, I should like you to describe in your
     next communication what are the principal and most useful joints in
     a family, and to discourse on them, in pointing out the good which
     may be achieved, and the evils to be avoided. Ever yours, &c.

ELOISE.






LETTER No. VIII


     Many compliments to you, my dear Mrs. L.

     At your request I here inclose the list you require, and which will
     show you how circumscribed the middle classes are in respect to the
     variation of their meals, in the way of meat and manner of cooking
     it. I do not disapprove of your idea in wishing me here to give a
     series or list of those provisions; but, on the other hand, I must
     tell you frankly my opinion, it being a subject which for some
     years I have made a study, indeed quite a hobby. If I am wrong, let
     any one who knows better correct me; you will allow I am always
     open to conviction and improvement, no matter how trifling, which
     often leads to an important one.

     I shall therefore name all joints of meat which, though numerous,
     offer but little variation when continually dressed the same way,
     and observe that everybody has the bad habit of running only upon a
     few which are considered the best. They are as follow:

     Those in beef are the sirloin, ribs, round, silver-side,
     aitch-bone.

     In mutton--leg, saddle, haunch, loin.

     Lamb--fore-quarter and leg.

     Veal--fillet, loin.

     Pork--leg, sparerib, loin.

     Every one of these joints are of the most expensive parts, because
     generally used, although many of the other parts are equally as
     good, as I shall prove to you, in the receipts which I shall write
     for the dinner, what can be done in the way of made dishes out of
     those parts which are rarely or never used in this country by the
     middle classes, which will more clearly develope to you my ideas on
     the subject Besides, there is this advantage, that if a small
     tradesman were to follow these receipts, and buy every other time
     he goes to the butcher what he now considers a second-class joint,
     he would not only be conferring a public benefit, but also one on
     himself, and be the means of diminishing the price of those now
     considered the first class, which at the present moment bear too
     high a price in proportion, but which his pride causes him to
     purchase.

     To prove to you that my argument is correct, look carefully over
     the inclosed list, which contains all the joints that are cut from
     beef, veal, mutton, lamb, pork, and you will find that ten of the
     prime are in daily use to one of the other, and principally for a
     want of the knowledge of cookery; leaving the science of cooking
     our food to a fierce or slow fire, or plunging our expensive
     provisions into an ocean of boiling water, which is thrown away,
     after having absorbed a great portion of the succulence of the
     meat. Try the receipt for the Pot-au-feu; taste the broth and eat
     the meat, and tell me which plan you consider the best. Do not
     think that I object to our plain joint, because, now and then, I am
     rather partial to them; but why not manage to make use of the
     broth, by diminishing the quantity of water, and simmering them,
     instead of galloping them at a special railway-train speed? Were
     the middle classes only but slightly acquainted with the domestic
     cookery of France, they would certainly live better and less
     expensively than at present, very often, four or five different
     little made dishes may be made from the remains of a large Sunday's
     joint, instead of its appearing on the table of a wealthy tradesman
     for several days cold, and often unsightly, and backed by a bottle
     of variegated-colored pickles, made with pyroligneous acid, which
     sets my teeth on edge merely in thinking of it, and balanced by a
     steaming dish of potatoes, which, seen through the parlor window by
     the customers in the shop, would make them think there was a grand
     gastronomic festivity taking place at Mr. A.'s or B.'s, the
     butterman or greengrocer; this may be excusable once or twice, on a
     hot summer's day, with an inviting salad, seasoned with merely
     salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, but the continual repetition of
     that way of living in winter is, I consider, a domestic crime.

     You will, perhaps, say that, in large firms, where forty or fifty,
     or more young men dine every day, or even in public establishments
     still more numerous, many professed cooks would be required to
     dress the dinner, if my plan was adopted; not at all, if the
     kitchen is properly constructed: but in these establishments,
     joints, of necessity, must be the principal viand, and there is
     very little left; what there is, is consumed cold for supper; but
     even there an amelioration might take place, although only a plain
     joint, either boiled or roasted, roasted or boiled, which is
     generally the yearly bill of fare, and so simple, yet seldom well
     done, and often badly, which, in a large establishment, must create
     great waste, and make bad food out of good meat, and that for want
     of care or a little more knowledge, which may appear to you but a
     trifling matter, but not so to thousands of poor old people, with
     toothless gums and fatigued stomachs, made comfortable within walls
     erected by the good feelings of government, or by public charity. I
     have often thought, when visiting these establishments, that a
     professed cook ought to be appointed, as well as a medical man, to
     visit all such in the metropolis, not only to inspect the quality
     of the provisions, but superintend the arrangements of the dietary
     table, and see that the viands are properly cooked, and thus
     correct the lamentable ignorance which exists at the present day; I
     am confident that tons of meat are daily wasted in such
     institutions throughout the country, which, if well employed, would
     feed a great part of the starving poor of the United Kingdom. The
     same system ought to be adopted in all the provincial towns; and,
     if it was in existence, we should not have to deplore such
     lamentable scenes which we had latterly to witness at Tooting,
     where, no doubt, many were to blame; for, by the calculation I have
     made, the allowance, though rather limited, was amply large enough
     to allow for good provisions, and leave sufficient remuneration for
     any reasonable and not covetous man. Why should not these poor
     children be watched over, and made as comfortable in every respect
     as the wish of those who pay to support them require? besides, it
     has an effect upon after generations; for upon the food at the
     period of growth depends the nature of the mind at a more advanced
     age, as well as the stature of the man. Do we not evince our care
     to objects of the brute creation, and feed, with the greatest
     attention, the race-horse? compare him with others of his species
     not so humanely treated, and note the difference: so it is with the
     human race; and I might almost say the prosperity of a country
     depends upon the food of its youth. You will perhaps think that I
     am rather sharp in my remarks, and probably longer than is
     required, but still it will be gratifying to both of us, should we
     find that these remarks prove beneficial to such establishments as
     above-mentioned; and it is only by giving notoriety to these
     important details, and being positive in exposing the truth, that
     we can be believed and followed, and you must not mind displeasing
     the few, if you are to be useful to the many. Forever, &c.

HORTENSE.






LETTER No. IX


     MY DEAR HORTENSE,--After the receipt of your last observations,
     which, on first seeing, I thought too long, but after having read
     them over again, I am convinced that I shall not be able to shorten
     them; at all events, there is a great deal of truth in them, and,
     as you justly say, they are the observations of a person who has
     constantly studied domestic comfort and economy; I shall therefore
     copy them in the journal just as you send them to me. Truly yours,

ELOISE.






LETTER No. X


     MY DEAR ELOISE,--I am glad to hear that you will not alter any of
     my last copy sent, because I assure you I wrote with a full
     conviction that I was right, and from facts which experience alone
     can engrave on the memory; but, however, we will now proceed: but I
     think it will be necessary to alter our original intention, namely,
     in order to save any confusion, to class all the receipts for the
     dinner together, and thus form a large bill of fare, and follow, on
     a small plan, what M. Soyer, of the Reform Club, has done on a
     large scale, in his 'Gastronomic Regenerator,' by which the most
     inexperienced hands may easily provide a large or small dinner
     adapted for all classes, without committing a blunder, and thus
     make a selection from soups, different dishes of fish, and an
     innumerable number of removes; entrées, roasts, savory dishes,
     vegetables, sweets, dessert, &c., and having chosen one or two of
     each series, and, on referring to the receipt, an idea of their
     cost, within a few pence of the market-price, may be gained.

     Let me know, dear, by return of post, if you approve of my new
     idea, as it is rather deviating from our original one; but observe,
     that having so very distinctly given the Breakfast Receipts, and
     also for Invalids, it will be more clearly understood than by
     repeating the same over and over again, which would be unavoidable
     if following our first proposition. Yours truly, in haste,

HORTENSE.






LETTER No. XI


     MY DEAR HORTENSE,--Never were you inspired by a better idea
     respecting your new plan; it is so clearly explained, that I fancy
     our labor is over; but I must tell you that, on the receipt of
     your last, I wrote to M. Soyer, to inquire if he would object to
     our taking a few hints from his "Kitchen at Home," which forms the
     last part of his work. His answer was immediate, short, and as
     follows:

     "DEAR MADAM,--It would be entirely deviating from the preface of my
     'Gastronomic Regenerator' to refuse you anything in my power; and
     as your simple demand lies within that scope, you are quite welcome
     to take a few hints, if you require them for your little work, from
     the part entitled 'My Kitchen at Home.'

     "Wishing your exertions may be well appreciated, I am, dear madam,
     most sincerely, your humble and devoted,

     "Reform Club.

A. SOYER."



     As you have his book, you, no doubt, know to which part he alludes.
     He says, in his preface, that he has made it a rule never to refuse
     ladies anything in his power; so far he has kept his word with us:
     so you may, dearest, if you require, make use of his offer. I shall
     expect, by the next post, the commencement of the Dinner Receipts,
     which I am confident you will make as simple and as short as
     possible. With kindest regards, yours,

ELOISE.






_Roasting, Baking, Boiling, Stewing, Braising, Frying, Sautéing,
Broiling._


ROASTING being the most general in use, we will first describe it,
although not that which was first put in practice in cooking, it being
evidently an improvement on broiling: we can easily understand how, in
the early primitive times, man, finding that his food got covered with
the ashes with which he cooked his meat, he would invent a species of
grate upon which he could raise the fire, and cook his meat before it:
this primitive mode of cooking has lasted, in many countries, up to the
present day, and even in London to within a few years; for I remember
seeing, in the old Goldsmith's Hall, a fire-place, consisting of stages,
on which was laid the wood, and when the meat, &c., was spitted and
arranged before it, the wood was lighted, and a man turned the spits.
(It was, no doubt, from arranging the wood thus in stages that the name
of range was derived.) In many noblemen's castles and ecclesiastical
establishments, dogs were kept to turn the spit, from whence we have
those of the name of turnspit; whilst in others, where there happened to
be a person of a mechanical turn of mind, they applied a water-wheel to
the purpose, and the water from it formed a stream in the kitchen, which
served as a reservoir for live fish. Different opinions exist as to the
mode and time required for roasting, but this must all depend upon the
nature of the fire and the meat. In the Receipts will be found the time
which each requires. My plan is to make up as large a fire as the nature
of the grate will allow, because I can place my joint near or not, as
may be required, and thus obtain every degree of heat.


BAKING is a branch of the art of cooking which, although one of the
oldest, is the least understood. (As I shall have to refer to this
subject again, I will give the reason why in a future letter.) It is
performed in various kinds of air-tight chambers, called ovens, the best
of which have the same form as in the time of the Egyptians. Previous to
the art of baking being practised, boiled pulse and corn were the food
of the people; even Rome contained no bakers until near six hundred
years after it was founded. Of late years, great improvements have been
made in the construction of ovens for baking of meat, called roasting
ovens, which cause great economy in the expenditure of fuel; and, in
large public establishments, where a number of the same kind of joints
are required, it is the best plan of cooking. In the Receipts will be
found the time required by each for baking, but, in a general way, for
meat, hot ovens are the best; for poultry, not so hot as meat; and
pastry, according to its kind. In using dishes or utensils for the oven,
they ought, if of metal, to be of galvanized iron, and separate ones for
meat and fish.


BOILING is the next branch of the art which is of the most importance
and appears the most simple, yet, at the same time, the most difficult,
and is a subject upon which, if I were to dilate, would occupy a good
quarto volume; it is one of those easy things which it is supposed
everybody can do, and therefore no attention is paid to it, and it is
generally done badly. According to the way in which it is done, meat may
be rendered hard and tough or tender, lose or retain its flavor or
nourishment; great difference of opinion exists amongst medical men
which are the easiest of digestion--roasted or boiled meats. I say it is
a subject quite impossible to decide, as it must depend upon the
different constitutions and climate; for we might as well say that the
food of the Esquimaux is adapted for the native of Italy.


STEWING ought to be the best understood, on account of its economy;
pieces of coarse meat, subjected to stewing, if properly done, become
tender, as the gelatinous parts become partly dissolved; it should be
done slowly, the pan partly uncovered, and frequently skimmed. Great
cleanliness should be observed in all the vessels used for stewing.


BRAISING is the next and most important part of the art of cooking, and,
like the sauté, belongs entirely to the French school, from whom it
takes its name, _braise_ being the remains of wood burnt in the oven, or
live charcoal: and as this plan of cookery requires the action of the
fire under and over the braising-pan, which is air-tight, in order that
the aromatic flavor arising from its contents may be imbibed by the meat
or poultry, and give it that succulence so much esteemed by epicures.
The braise is put on the cover, which, in some cases, is made deep on
purpose to hold it. Its origin is stated to be owing to a gastronomic
society which was formerly in existence in Paris, whose object was to
benefit and improve the art of cookery, and who offered a reward of a
silver gridiron to any culinary artist who would discover a new mode of
dressing a turkey. Although a gridiron was, no doubt, intended to be
used, yet a young artist named La Gacque, warmed by the offer, directed
his imagination to quite a different mode, and used the pan instead of
the gridiron, and thus composed the braise, which was unanimously
approved of by that scientific, gastronomic, and epicurean body, who
awarded him the prize. The chief art in braising is to do it slowly,
taking care that the ingredients are well-proportioned, receipts for
which will be found in their proper place.


FRYING.--Of all the apparently simple modes of cookery there is none
more so than that of frying, but yet how rare to meet with it done
properly. I believe it is to be attributed, in a great measure, to the
idea that, to do it well is expensive. I have therefore made a series of
experiments upon a plan such as should be followed in every private
house, and I am convinced that to do it well is cheaper than doing it
badly; but, in the first place, we ought to consider, What is frying? It
is the insertion of any substance into boiling oil, or grease, by which
the surface of that substance becomes carbonized, and the heat which
effects this object is sufficient to solidify the albumen and gelatine,
or, more commonly speaking, cooked; to do this properly, the substance
ought to be covered by the liquid, so that the heat acts all over it at
the same time, or otherwise the osmazome, or gravy, will be dried out of
that part which is not covered, and the succulence and flavor of the
viand lost; or, should the liquid not be of that degree of heat which
would carbonize the surface on the moment of its immersion, it would
then enter into the substance, render it greasy, and destroy its flavor,
which no degree of heat afterwards could remedy. Those articles which
are fried are generally those which have a coating of materials (such as
bread-crumbs and batter) which are quickly carbonized, and thus form a
crust which prevents the grease penetrating, concentrates the liquids,
and preserves the flavor of the article; the carbonization once
effected, the fire should be immediately moderated, particularly if the
article is large, in order that the interior may become properly
solidified. All articles properly fried are generally much liked, as
they are agreeable to the eye, and afford a pleasing variety.

The plan that I recommend you to adopt is, to obtain an iron or copper
pan long enough for a good-sized sole, and 6 to 8 inches deep, and fill
three to four inches of it with fat--the skimmings of the stock-pot, or,
if that should not be sufficient, the kidney-fat of beef, cut up,
melted, and strained. In wealthy establishments, lard, and, in some,
bacon-fat melted is used, and, for some articles, olive oil, which can
only be used once; but in our less luxurious homes I think the above is
sufficient, besides, it has the advantage of not requiring that great
attention which the other does. When you have the fat on, before
immersing the substance you intend to fry, see that it is sufficiently
hot by dipping your finger (not in the fat), but in a little water, and
then hold it over the fat, so that a few drops go into it; if it spits
and throws back the water, it is sufficiently hot: or, throw in a small
dice of bread and take it out immediately; if it is firm or colored, it
is hot enough: or, in frying of fish, before putting it in, lay hold of
the head and dip the end of the tail, and, if it crisps it, then let the
remainder go in. I have found, if due attention is paid to the pan to
prevent it from burning, forty articles may be fried in it before it
wants renewing; and I am certain it will be found cheaper than the
common way of putting a little fat into the frying-pan and turning the
sole over and over, for you are then almost certain of sending the
grease up to the table, where it is not wanted. When the fat is not
used, it should be emptied, whilst hot, through a sieve, into an earthen
pipkin, and covered with paper to prevent the dust going in it. For the
purpose of frying, an iron wire-basket, with a handle, is used, in which
the object to be cooked is placed, and thus inserted in the liquid. The
cost of this instrument is trifling.


SAUTEING.--You will perceive, dearest, by the following, that the word
fried is often wrongly used in cookery instead of the word sauté, which
process is totally different, and produces quite another effect on food.
Sauté means anything cooked in a very small quantity of butter, oil,
lard, or fat, one side of the article at a time, whilst the other
requires about 100 times more of the above-named materials to cook
properly. You will see, in these remarks, that it is not frying a
pancake, omelette, or still less a chop, steak, or cutlet, but that they
are sautéd; and how to explain that word, to use it instead of the
misapplied word fry, puzzles me considerably, as I am quite ignorant of
its origin as regards its application to cookery. All the researches I
have made in English and French Dictionaries and Encyclopædias, have not
enlightened me in the least on the subject. In French, it means to jump,
hop, skip, understood by our boys at school, as well as by the
grasshopper tribe, called in French sauterelles, from the word sauter,
to jump. I well remember at school we had a French emigré for a
dancing-master, who used to get into a passion when we did not dance to
his professional taste; and used to say, in shaking his powdered wig, as
holding his fiddle in one hand and his bow in the other, making all
kinds of grimaces and contortions, which used to remind me of the
principal figure in the group of the Laocoon,--"Mon dieu, mon dieu,
young miss, vous sautez très bien, mais vous dansez fort mal;" which
means, "You jump very well, but you dance very badly." It also reminds
me of an expression made by a friend of ours from Havre, who was on a
visit to us last November. Seeing some Guy Fawkes carried about the
street, he asked me what it meant; when I told him, that in the year
1605, an attempt was made to destroy by gunpowder the King and
Parliament in the House of Lords, as well as----. "Oui, oui, madame, I
know, I remember reading of it in English history; it was that little
brute qui a voulut faire _sauter_ le Parlement," replied he very
quickly. "_Sauter, sauter,_" I said; "no, sir, not sauté--blow up."
"Oui, oui, madame, I know, it is the same thing." "Same thing," replied
I. This of course puzzled my culinary imagination still more; and I
perceived, that if the word was translated to his meaning, it would
sound most absurd and ridiculous; as, for example, on being at a festive
board, and a polite young gentleman, or even your own husband, might
gallantly offer to give you a _blow-up_ cutlet, instead of a cotelette
sauté, as they say in fashionable circles. I can easily conceive, that
if the cotelette was blown up, it would stand a chance of coming down on
the other side, thus saving the cook the trouble; but if Guy Fawkes had
unfortunately succeeded, it would have produced quite another effect.
Having failed in my literary researches, I tried to find it in practice.
I therefore went to my kitchen, and put two spoonfuls of oil in a
sautépan; I took a nice spring chicken prepared for broiling, put on the
fire; and, as it began to act upon it, the oil began to jump, and also
slightly the chicken. I then perceived that the way my French friend
used the word was right; and that, after all, there was not such a great
difference in Guy Fawkes's plan of cooking the Parliament and that of a
cutlet or chicken, for both were doomed to destruction, the one by
falling in awful ruins on the fire, and the other devoured by a ravenous
stomach on the dinner-table. Now, dearest, having found no means of
translating it to my satisfaction, I see no other plan but to adopt it
amongst us, and give it letters of naturalization, not for the beauty of
the word, but for its utility. The process of sautéing is at once quick,
simple, and economical, and to be well done furnishes a pleasing article
of food. The art of doing it well consists in doing it quickly, to keep
the gravy and succulence in the meat, which a slow process would
nullify, and is of course confined to small articles of every kind of
food.


BROILING is, without doubt, the earliest and most primitive mode of
cookery, it being that which would present itself to man in a state of
nature. It is one of the easiest parts of cookery, and therefore should
be done well; it entirely depends upon the fire, which must be
exceedingly clear, and the best gridiron is that having round bars,
which should be placed slanting over the fire, to prevent the fat going
into it; the bars should be greased, and the gridiron should be placed
on the fire to get hot before the object to be cooked is placed on it I
have heard that great difference of opinion exists in cookery books upon
the proper broiling of a steak, if it should be turned only once or
often. My plan is to turn it often, and my reason is, that, if turned
but once, the albumen and the fibrine of the meat get charred, and the
heat throws out the osmazome or gravy on the upper side, which, when
turned over, goes into the fire; by turning it often, so as at first
only to set the outside, the gravy goes into the centre, and it becomes
evenly done throughout. (_See_ "Soyer's Mutton Chop.") As regards the
thickness of the meat to be broiled, that depends in a great measure on
the intensity of the fire, but the quicker the better, and also the
sooner it is eaten after taken from the fire the better. I have
latterly, in broiling rump-steaks, added that which, by a great many, is
considered an improvement; it is, on turning them the last time, to
dredge them out of a dredger with fine holes, in which has been placed
four tablespoonfuls of fine biscuit or rusk-powder, one tablespoonful of
salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, a saltspoonful of either
eschalot-powder or mushroom-powder, or finely-pulverized salts of
celery, well mixed together, and the steak to be placed in a very hot
dish, with a little mushroom-ketchup and a small piece of butter, and
served immediately.




SAUCES.


     Sauces in cookery are like the first rudiments of grammar, which
     consists of certain rules called Syntax, which is the foundation of
     all languages: these fundamental rules are nine, so has cookery the
     same number of sauces, which are the foundation of all others; but
     these, like its prototype the grammar, have two--brown and white,
     which bear a resemblance to the noun and verb, as they are the
     first and most easily learnt, and most constantly in use; the
     others are the adjuncts, pronouns, adverbs, and interjections; upon
     "the proper use of the two principal ones depends the quality of
     all others, and the proper making of which tends to the enjoyment
     of the dinner; for to my fancy they are to cookery what the gamut
     is in the composition of music, as it is by the arrangement of the
     notes that harmony is produced, so should the ingredients in the
     sauce be so nicely blended, and that delightful concord should
     exist, which would equally delight the palate, as a masterpiece of
     a Mozart or a Rossini should delight the ear; but which, if badly
     executed, tantalize those nervous organs, affect the whole system,
     and prove a nuisance instead of a pleasure. I will therefore be
     very precise in describing the two, in order that when you make
     them, you will not cause your guests to make grimaces at each
     other, when partaking of them at your festive board, for the
     present age is a little more refined than at the time of Dr.
     Johnson, and we are often obliged to swallow what we do not like;
     for it is reported of him, that being at a ceremonious
     dinner-party, and indulging in his usual flow of wit, he
     unconsciously partook of a spoonful of very hot soup, which he
     immediately returned to the plate he had taken it from; and
     observing the astonishment of some of his neighbors, he very coolly
     remarked, "A fool would have burnt his mouth."

     When we are at home alone, I very seldom trouble myself by making
     white or brown sauce, which I can avoid by selecting simplified
     dishes, which easily produce their own sauce whilst cooking them.
     But when I expect a little company, the first I order of my cook is
     to make me half of the quantity of the following receipts for white
     and brown sauces:--


130. _White Sauce._--Cut and chop a knuckle of veal, weighing about four
pounds, into large dice; also half a pound of lean bacon; butter the
bottom of a large stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, add two
onions, a small carrot, a turnip, three cloves, half a blade of mace, a
bouquet of a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and six of parsley, add a gill
of water, place over a sharp fire, stirring round occasionally, until
the bottom of the stewpan is covered with whitish glaze, when fill up
with three quarts of water, add a good teaspoonful of salt, and let
simmer at the corner of the fire an hour and a half, keeping well
skimmed, when pass it through a hair sieve into a basin; in another
stewpan put a quarter of a pound of butter, with which mix six ounces of
flour, stirring over the fire about three minutes, take off, keep
stirring until partly cold, when add the stock all at once, continually
stirring and boiling for a quarter of an hour; add half a pint of
boiling milk, stir a few minutes longer, add a little chopped mushrooms
if handy, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, until required for
use, stirring it round occasionally until cold; the above being a
simplified white sauce, will be referred to very often in the receipts.


131. _Brown Sauce._--Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan, rub it
over the bottom, peel two or three large onions, cut them in thick
slices, lay them on the bottom, cut into small pieces about two pounds
of knuckle of veal,[3] all meat, or three pounds if with bone, a quarter
of a pound of lean bacon cut small, two cloves, a few peppercorns, a
tablespoonful of salt, two bay-leaves, a gill of water; set it on a
brisk fire, let it remain ten minutes, when stir it well round, subdue
the fire, let it remain a few minutes longer, and stir now and then
until it has a nice brown color; fill your pan with three quarts of
water; when boiling, set it on the corner of the stove, with the lid
three parts on the saucepan; when boiling, skim fat and all; after one
hour, or one hour and a half simmering, pass it through a sieve into a
basin. To make the thickening or roux for it, proceed as follows:--Put
two ounces of butter into a pan, which melt on a slow fire, then add
three ounces of flour, stir it until getting a thin deep yellow color;
this in France is called roux, being very useful in cookery, and will be
often referred to in these receipts. This process will take five
minutes, when remove from the fire for two minutes to cool, then add at
once three and a quarter pints of the above stock, very quickly set it
on the fire to boil, remove to corner to simmer, and skim; it ought to
be entirely free from grease, and of a light chestnut color.


132. _Demi-Glaze--Thin Brown Sauce for Made Dishes._--When I have a
small dinner-party, I always, as I told you before, make small
quantities of white and brown sauce as above, but this is a nice way of
clarifying a brown sauce without much trouble, and makes it a beautiful
transparent brown color: but although I have made it quite a study, that
each _entrée_, or made dish for daily use, should make its own sauce,
yet I must impress upon you that this sauce is the real key to cooking a
good and ceremonious dinner. Put a pint of brown sauce in a middle-sized
stewpan, add to it half a pint of broth or consommé, put it on the
stove, stir with wooden spoon, let it boil as fast as possible, take the
scum off which will rise to the surface, reduce it until it adheres
lightly to the spoon, pass it through a sieve or tammy into a basin,
stir now and then until cold, to prevent a skin forming on the top, put
it by until wanted for use. It will keep for a week in winter, by adding
half a gill of white broth every other day, and giving it a boil; the
addition of a tablespoonful of tomatos, gives it a beautiful color; use
where indicated.


133. _Thin Brown Sauce of Mushrooms._--Put twelve tablespoonfuls of thin
brown sauce in a small stewpan to boil, then have six or eight small
mushrooms well cleaned and washed, chop them fine, and place in sauce,
and boil for five minutes; taste if it is to your liking; the addition
of a little sugar is an improvement: a little cayenne, if liked, may be
introduced. This sauce is good for cutlets, broiled fowl and game, &c.


134. _Eschalot Sauce._--Chop fine about a good tablespoonful of
eschalot, wash them by placing them in the corner of a napkin, and
pouring water over them; press them until dry, put them in a small
stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one clove, a little mace;
boil two minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, boil a little
longer, add a little sugar, and serve.


135. _Piquant Sauce._--Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, or
eschalots, cleaned as above, into a stewpan; put also four
tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a bay-leaf, and boil; then add ten
tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, half a one of chopped parsley, ditto of
green gherkins; boil five minutes, skim, add a little sugar, taste if
well seasoned, take out bay-leaf and serve.


136. _Tarragon Sauce._--Put eight tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, and four
of broth, into a stewpan; boil for a few minutes, add a tablespoonful of
vinegar, have ready picked twenty leaves of fresh tarragon, put in to
simmer two minutes, and serve with any kind of poultry, but especially
spring chickens.


137. _Brown Cucumber Sauce._--Peel a small fresh cucumber, cut it in
neat pieces, put in a stewpan with a little sugar, add half an ounce of
butter, set it on a slow fire, stir it now and then, add twelve
tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, and four of broth; let it simmer till
tender, skim the butter off, remove the cucumbers into another stewpan,
reduce the sauce a little, taste it and serve.


138. _Mince Herb Sauce._--Put two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped
onions in a stewpan, add a tablespoonful of oil, place it on the fire,
stir a few minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze and four of
broth or water; boil, skim; if too thick, and the scum should not rise,
add half a gill of broth or water; boil, and reduce to a proper
thickness, and add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley if handy, one of
mushrooms, and season with a little cayenne, the juice of a quarter of a
lemon; serve. I often introduce a little garlic in this.


139. _Italian Herb Sauce._--Proceed in the same way as the above, only
add a little chopped thyme and a small glass of sherry.


140. _Robert Sauce._--Peel and cut up two good-sized onions, put them in
a stewpan with an ounce of butter till they are a nice yellow color,
then add eight tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, and two of water or broth;
skim, boil quick; when a proper thickness, add a good tablespoonful of
French mustard; season it rather high; if no French mustard, use
English, but it completely changes the flavor, though still very
palatable.


141. _Ravigote Sauce._--Put in a stewpan one middle-sized onion sliced,
with a little carrot, a little thyme, bay-leaf, one clove, a little
mace, a little scraped horseradish, a little butter, fry a few minutes,
then add three teaspoonfuls of vinegar, ten tablespoonfuls of brown
sauce, four of broth; when boiling, skim, add a tablespoonful of currant
jelly; when melted, pass all through a tammy, and serve with any kind of
meat or poultry; with hare or venison it is excellent.


142. _Brown Mushroom Sauce._--Clean and cut twelve small mushrooms in
slices, place them in a stewpan with a little butter, salt, pepper, the
juice of a quarter of a lemon, set it on a slow fire for a few minutes,
then add ten spoonfuls of demi-glaze; boil till they are tender, and
serve. A little mushroom catsup may be introduced.


143. _Orange Sauce for Game._--Peel half an orange, removing all the
pith; cut it into slices, and then in fillets; put them in a gill of
water to boil for two minutes; drain them on a sieve, throwing the water
away; place in the stewpan ten spoonfuls of demi-glaze, or two of broth;
and, when boiling, add the orange, a little sugar, simmer ten minutes,
skim, and serve. The juice of half an orange is an improvement. This is
served with ducklings and waterfowl: those that like may add cayenne and
mustard.


144. _Garlic Sauce._--Though many dislike the flavor of this root, yet
those that like it ought not to be deprived of it. Put in a stewpan ten
tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, a little tomatos if handy; boil it a few
minutes, scrape half a clove of garlic, put it in with a little sugar,
and serve.


145. _Mint Sauce for Lamb._--Take three tablespoonfuls of chopped leaves
of green mint, three tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, and put into a basin
with half a pint of brown vinegar; stir it well up, add one saltspoonful
of salt, and serve.


146. _Liaison of Eggs._--Break the yolks of three eggs in a basin, with
which mix six spoonfuls of milk, or eight of cream; pass it through a
fine sieve, and use when directed.


147. _Anchovy Butter Sauce._--Put into a stewpan eight spoonfuls of
demi-glaze, or three of broth; when boiling, add one ounce of anchovy
butter; stir continually till melted: serve where directed.


148. _Soyer's Sauce._--Put six spoonfuls of demi-glaze into a stewpan;
when hot, add four spoonfuls of Soyer's Gentleman's Sauce; let boil, and
serve with either chop, steak, cotelettes, poultry, or game.


149. _Papillotte Sauce._--Scrape half an ounce of fat bacon, put it in a
pan with four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, stir over the fire for a
few minutes, then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, and boil; then
add a tablespoonful of mushrooms chopped, one ditto of parsley, a little
nutmeg, a little pepper and sugar, a little scraped garlic; reduce till
rather thickish; put on dish till cold, and use it for anything you may
put up "_en papillotte_."


150. _Tomato Sauce._--If fresh, put six in a stewpan; having removed the
stalk, and squeezed them in the hand to remove pips, &c., add half an
onion, sliced, a little thyme, bay-leaf, half an ounce of celery, one
ounce of ham, same of butter, teaspoonful of sugar, same of salt, a
quarter one of pepper; set on fire to stew gently; when all tender, add
a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with half a pint of broth, boil five
minutes, add a little cayenne, taste if highly seasoned, pass it through
sieve or tammy, put it back in stewpan, until it adheres rather thick to
the back of the spoon, and use it for any kind of meat or poultry. If
preserved tomato, proceed as for poivrade sauce respecting the
vegetables, omitting the vinegar, add the tomato, instead of brown
sauce, add a tablespoonful of flour and broth to bring it to a proper
thickness, and pass it through a sieve, and serve as above.


     151. _Curry Sauce._--This I generally keep ready-made in the
     larder, being very fond of what I consider such wholesome food as
     curry; but not liking to be troubled with making it often, I cause
     my cook to prepare a certain quantity at a time. Mr. B. is very
     partial to curry, but he likes it in winter; for my part, I prefer
     it in summer. After having partaken of some one very hot summer's
     day, I felt quite cool. Capt. White, who has been nearly twenty
     years in the East Indies, tells me that it will produce that
     refreshing effect; but I can enjoy it in any season.

Put into a pan four good-sized onions, sliced, and two of peeled apples,
with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean ham, a blade of
mace, four peppercorns, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme; stir them
over a moderate fire until the onions become brown and tender, then add
two tablespoonfuls of the best curry powder, one of vinegar, two of
flour, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar; moisten it with a quart of
broth or milk, or even water, with the addition of a little glaze; boil
till in a pulp, and adhering rather thickly to the back of the spoon;
pass all through a fine sieve or tammy, give it another boil for a few
minutes, put it in a basin, and use when required. Any kind of meat,
poultry, and fish, or parts of game, is excellent warmed in this sauce,
and served with well-boiled and dry rice. I have kept this sauce in a
cool place in the winter for a month, boiling it now and then. The
quantity of powder may be omitted, and a spoonful of curry paste used,
or some mangoes. (_See Curries._)


152. _A very good and useful White Sauce (quite new)._--Put a quart of
white sauce in a stewpan of a proper size on a fire; stir continually
until reduced to one third; put two yolks of eggs in a basin, stir them
well up, add your sauce gradually, keep stirring, put back in stewpan,
set it to boil for a few minutes longer, then add one pint of boiling
milk, which will bring it to its proper thickness; that is, when it
adheres transparently to the back of a spoon; pass through a tammy into
a basin, stir now and then till cold; if not immediately required, and I
have any stock left, I use half of it with half of milk. I also try this
way, which is very convenient: when the yolks are in, and well boiled, I
put it in a large gallipot, and when cold, cover with pieces of paper,
and it will keep good in winter for two or three weeks, and above a week
in summer; and when I want to use a little of it, I only take a spoonful
or two and warm it on the fire, and add enough milk or white broth to
bring it to a proper thickness, and use where required. This sauce is
very smooth, and never, turns greasy; it lies beautifully on fowl, or
any white made dish; the addition of a drop of cream gives it a very
fine white appearance.


153. _Onion Purée Sauce._--Peel and cut six onions in slices; put in a
stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one
of sugar, a half one of pepper; place on a slow fire to simmer till in a
pulp, stirring them now and then to prevent them getting brown, then add
one tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil till a proper
thickness, which should be a little thicker than melted butter; pass
through a tammy, warm again, and serve with mutton cutlets, chops,
rabbits, or fowl; by not passing it, it will do for roast mutton and
boiled rabbit as onion sauce.


154. _Purée of Cauliflower Sauce._--Boil a cauliflower well in three
pints of water, in which you have previously put one ounce of butter,
two tablespoonfuls of salt; when done, chop it up, having prepared and
slowly cooked in a stewpan an onion sliced, a little celery, half a
turnip, one ounce of ham, two of butter, a little bay-leaf, mace, add
then the cauliflower, stir round, add a tablespoonful of flour, moisten
as above for onions, pass and finish the same way.


155. _Jerusalem Artichoke Sauce._--Peel twelve, and well wash, boil till
tender, and proceed as above.


156. _Turnip Sauce Purée._--Boil six middle-sized ones, press all the
water you can out of them, and proceed as the above.


157. _White Cucumber Purée._--Peel two, or one large one, cut in slices,
put in the stewpan with the same vegetables, &c., as for the
cauliflower; when tender, add a tablespoonful of flour, three gills of
milk or broth, boil, and finishing as the cauliflower.


158. _Sorrel Sauce, or Purée._--Wash well four handfuls of sorrel, put
it nearly dry into a middle-sized stewpan, with a little butter; let it
melt, add a tablespoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, half one of
pepper, moisten to a thick purée, with milk, or broth, or cream; pass it
through a sieve, put it back in a stewpan, warm again, add two whole
eggs, two ounces of butter, and stir well, and serve where directed.


159. _Spinach Purée (see Vegetables, 2d Course)._--Endive is often used
in France, and called chicorée. This purée may be made like the
cauliflower, or only plainly chopped, put into a pan with two ounces of
butter, a gill of white sauce, a little grated nutmeg, and a little
salt, pepper and sugar.


160. _Stewed Peas and Sprew Grass._--For cutlets, sweetbreads, fowls, or
any dishes, they are applicable (see Vegetables, second course), also
French beans, only using one third of the quantity that you would for a
made dish for an entremet.


161. _Scooped Jerusalem Artichokes._--Scoop with a round cutter
twenty-four pieces of artichoke, of the size of half an inch in
diameter, wash them, put them in a small stewpan with half an ounce of
butter and a quarter of an ounce of sugar; put it on a slow fire for a
few minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of white sauce, six of white broth
or milk, let them simmer till tender, skim, mix a yolk of an egg with
two tablespoonfuls of milk, pour in stewpan, and move it round very
quick, and serve; it must not be too thick, and the artichokes must be
well done; they must not be in purée; they are good with or served under
any white meat.


162. _Scooped Turnips._--Proceed exactly the same, only serve a little
thinner: they will not do if stringy.


163. _Button Onions._--The same, only make the sauce thinner, and boil
longer, according to their size.


164. _Young Carrots._--Scrape and trim to shape twenty small and young
carrots, pass in sugar and butter, add white or brown sauce, but keep it
thinner, as it requires a longer time boiling; when tender, if for white
sauce, add a tablespoonful of liaison, stir, and serve.


165. _White Mushroom Sauce._--Use small white ones; cut the dark part
out and remove the tail, wash in several waters, put in a stewpan with a
little butter, salt, pepper, juice of lemon, sauté it for a few minutes,
add a gill of white sauce, four table-spoonfuls of broth, milk, or
water; boil and serve under any white meat.


166. _White Cucumber Sauce._--Peel two cucumbers, divide each lengthways
into four, remove the pips, and cut into pieces one inch long; add, in
stewpan one ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, half of salt, let
it stew on the fire for fifteen minutes, then add a gill of white sauce,
six spoonfuls of milk, broth, or water, simmer gently and skim, add a
tablespoonful of liaison, and serve where directed, but observe that all
these garnitures ought to be served under the meat and over poultry.


167. _Ragout of Quenelles._--Make twelve nice small quenelles (see
_Quenelles_), warm half a pint of white sauce, in which you have put
four tablespoonfuls of milk, and half a teaspoonful of eschalot; when
well done, pour on the liaison over with the juice of a lemon, and
serve. A few English truffles or mushrooms may be added to this sauce.


168. _Maître d'Hôtel Sauce._--Put eight spoonfuls of white sauce in a
stewpan, with four of white stock or milk; boil it five minutes, then
stir in two ounces of maître d'hôtel butter; stir it quickly over the
fire until the butter is melted, but do not let the sauce boil after the
butter is in; this sauce should only be made at the time of serving.


169. _Green Peas Stewed._--Put a pint of young peas, boiled very green,
into a stewpan, with three table-spoonfuls of white sauce, two ounces
of butter, a little sugar and salt, and two button onions, with parsley,
tied together; boil them ten minutes; add two tablespoonfuls of liaison,
stir it in quickly, and serve.


170. _Green Peas, with Bacon._--Put a pint of well-boiled peas into a
stewpan, with five spoonfuls of brown sauce, two of brown gravy, a
teaspoonful of sugar, two button onions, and a bunch of parsley; let it
boil about ten minutes; have ready braised about a quarter of a pound of
lean bacon, cut it in dice about a quarter of an inch square, add it to
the peas, take out the onions and parsley, season with an ounce of
butter and half a teaspoonful of sugar; mix well together, stew twenty
minutes, and serve.


171. _Blanched Mushrooms._--Get a pottle of fresh mushrooms, cut off the
dirt, and likewise the heads (reserving the stalk for chopping), wash
the heads in a basin of clean water, take them out and drain in a sieve;
put into a stewpan two wine-glasses of cold water, one ounce of butter,
the juice of half a good lemon, and a little salt; turn or peel each
head neatly, and put them into the stewpan immediately, or they will
turn black; set your stewpan on a brisk fire, let them boil quickly five
minutes, put them into a basin ready for use; chop the stalks and peel
very fine, put them into a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of the
liquor the mushrooms have been boiled in; let them simmer three minutes,
put them into a jar, and use where indicated.

Observe: Turning or peeling mushrooms is an art that practice alone can
attain; if they are very fresh and white, wash them quickly, and wipe
them on a cloth; throw them into the liquid above mentioned.


172. _Onions Stuffed._--Peel twelve large onions, cut a piece off at the
top and bottom to give them a flat appearance, and which adds a better
flavor if left, blanch them in four quarts of boiling water twenty
minutes, then lay them on a cloth to dry; take the middle out of each
onion, and fill them with veal forcemeat (with a little chopped
eschalot, parsley, and mushroom, mixed in it), and put them in a
sauté-pan well buttered, cover them with white broth, let them simmer
over a slow fire until covered with a glaze, and tender; turn them over
and serve where required.


173. _Hot Tartar Sauce._--Put two table-spoonfuls of white sauce in a
small stewpan, four of broth or milk, boil a few minutes, then add two
tablespoonfuls of the tartar sauce (see Salads) in it, stir it very
quick with a wooden spoon, make it quite hot but not boiling; put it on
a dish, and serve where described.


     174. _Mephistophelian Sauce._--Do not be afraid of the title, for
     it has nothing diabolical about it; the first time I tried it was
     at Mr. B.'s birthday party; and some of his friends having over and
     over again drank his health, till he had hardly any health left to
     carry him to the drawing-room, where the coffee was waiting, about
     eleven o'clock, having asked for some anchovy sandwiches, but, from
     a mistake, not having any in the house, I composed this ravigotante
     sauce, which partly brought them back to their senses.

I cut up the remains of the turkey, rubbed some mustard over it,
sprinkled a little salt and plenty of cayenne, put it on the gridiron on
the fire, and made the following sauce: I chopped six eschalots, washed
and pressed them in the corner of a clean cloth, then put them into a
stewpan with one and a half wine-glassful of Chili vinegar, a chopped
clove, a piece of garlic, two bay-leaves, an ounce of glaze, and boiled
all together for ten minutes; then added four tablespoonfuls of tomato
sauce, a little sugar, and ten of gravy or brown sauce; boiled it a few
minutes longer, then added a pat of butter, stirring it well in, removed
the bay-leaf, and poured over turkey, and served.




SOUPS.


     In France, no dinner is served without soup, and no good soup is
     supposed to be made without the pot-au-feu (see No. 215), it being
     the national dish of the middle and poorer classes of that country;
     thinking it might be of service to the working classes, by showing
     the benefits to be derived from more frequently partaking of a hot
     dinner, as I have previously observed, especially in a cold
     climate like ours. Clear light soups are very delicate, and in this
     country more fit for the wealthy; whilst the more substantial thick
     soups, such as mock turtle, ox-tail, peas, &c., are more in vogue,
     consequent to being better adapted to the million; therefore, after
     giving a few series of clear soups, I shall proceed to give a
     greater variety of the thicker sorts, being careful that every
     receipt shall be so plain as to give a correct idea of its cost.


175. _Stock for all kinds of Soup._--Procure a knuckle of veal about six
pounds in weight, which cut into pieces about the size of an egg, as
also half a pound of lean ham or bacon; then rub a quarter of a pound of
butter upon the bottom of the stewpan (capable of holding about two
gallons), into which put the meat and bacon, with half a pint of water,
two ounces of salt, three middle-sized onions, with two cloves in each,
one turnip, a carrot, half a leek, and half a head of celery; put the
cover upon the stewpan, which place over a sharp fire, occasionally
stirring round its contents with a wooden spoon, until the bottom of the
stewpan is covered with a white thickish glaze, which will lightly
adhere to the spoon; fill up the stewpan with cold water, and when upon
the point of boiling, draw it to the corner of the fire, where it must
gently simmer for three hours, carefully skimming off every particle of
grease and scum; pass your stock through a fine hair sieve, and it is
ready for use when required.

The above will make a delicious broth for all kinds of clear soups, and
of course for thick soups or purées; by boiling it rather faster about
five minutes before passing, you will be better enabled to take off
every particle of grease from the surface. In making a stock of beef
proceed as above, but allow double the time to simmer; mutton or lamb,
if any trimmings, might also be used; if beef, use seven pounds; if
mutton, eight; or lamb, seven, of course bones and all included; with
care, this broth would be quite clear. To give a little color, as
required for all clear soups, use a little brown gravy or browning, but
never attempt to brown it by letting it color at the bottom of the
stewpan, for in that case you would destroy the greater part of the
osmazome.


176. _Another way, more economical._--Instead of cutting up the knuckle
of veal so small, cut it in four or five pieces only, and leave the
bacon in one piece; then, when the broth is passed, take out the veal,
which is very excellent served with a little of the broth for gravy, and
the bacon with a few greens upon another dish. This is as I always eat
it myself; but some persons would probably prefer a little
parsley-and-butter sauce or sharp sauce, served with it. Should any of
the veal be left until cold, it might be cut into thin slices, and
gradually warmed in either of the before-mentioned sauces. Should you
make your stock from the leg or shin of beef, stew it double the time,
preserve the vegetables boiled in the stock, and serve with beef, or
serve the beef with some nice sharp sauce over; the remainder, if cold,
may also be hashed in the ordinary way. If of mutton, and you have used
the scrags of the neck, the breast, head, or the chump of the loin, keep
them in as large pieces as possible; and, when done, serve with a few
mashed turnips, and caper sauce, separately; if any remaining until
cold, mince it. Lamb would be seldom used for stock, being much too
expensive; but in case of an abundance, which there sometimes is in the
country, proceed the same as for mutton.


177. _Brown Gravies._--Rub an ounce of butter over the bottom of a
stewpan which would hold about three quarts; have ready peeled four
onions, cut them into thick slices, with which cover the bottom of the
stewpan; over these lay about two pounds of beef from the leg or shin,
cut into thin slices, with the bone chopped very small, add a small
carrot, a turnip cut in slices, and a couple of cloves; set the stewpan
upon a gentle fire for ten minutes, shaking it round occasionally to
prevent burning; after which, let it go upon a slow fire for upwards of
an hour, until the bottom is covered with a blackish glaze, but not
burnt; when properly done, and ready for filling up, you will perceive
the fat that runs from the meat quite clear, fill up the stewpan with
cold water, add a teaspoonful of salt; and when upon the point of
boiling, set it on a corner of the fire, where let it simmer gently
about an hour, skimming off all the fat and scum which may rise to the
surface; when done, pass it through a fine sieve into a basin, and put
by to use for the following purposes:--For every kind of roast meat,
poultry, or game especially; also to give a good color to soups and
sauces. This gravy will keep several days, by boiling it every other
day. Although beef is the most proper meat for the above purpose, it
may be made of veal, mutton, lamb, or even with fresh pork, rabbits, or
poultry.


178. _Browning._--When in business, and not so much time to devote to
the kitchen, I used to make shift with a browning from the following
receipt, using, however, but a very few drops: put two ounces of
powdered sugar into a middling-sized stewpan, which place over a slow
fire; when beginning to melt, stir it round with a wooden spoon until
getting quite black, then pour over half a pint of cold water: leave it
to dissolve, and take a little for use when required.


179. _Glaze_ is an almost indispensable article in a _cuisine
bourgeoise_, and should be kept by all persons in the middle classes of
life, the advantage being that it will keep for months together, is very
simple to make, and is always useful in cookery, however humble; in
fact, with it you can dress a very good dinner with very little trouble.

Make a stock as directed in No. 175, but omitting the salt, which, when
done, pass through a cloth into a basin; then fill the stewpan up a
second time with hot water, and let boil four hours longer to obtain all
the succulence from the meat, then pass it through a cloth the same as
the first; then pour both stocks in a large stewpan together, set it
over the fire, and let it boil as fast as possible, leaving a large
spoon in, to stir occasionally and prevent its boiling over; when
reduced to about three pints, pour it into a smaller stewpan, set again
to boil at the corner, skimming well if required; when reduced to a
quart, place it quite over the fire, well stirring with a wooden spoon
until forming a thickish glaze (which will adhere to the spoon) of a
fine yellowish-brown color; pour it into a basin, or, if for keeping any
time, into a long bladder, from which cut a slice and use where
directed.

Where, however, only a small quantity is required, reduce only the
second stock, using the first for either soup or sauce; but in that case
the salt must not be omitted from the first stock, but from the second
only. Veal at all times makes the best glaze, but any kinds of meat,
game, or poultry will produce more or less.


180. _To clarify Stock, if required._--In case, by some accident, your
stock should not be clear, put it (say three quarts) into a stewpan, and
place it over a good fire, skim well, and, when boiling, have ready the
whites of three eggs (carefully separated from their yolks), to which
add half a pint of water; whisk well together; then add half a pint of
the boiling stock gradually, still whisking the eggs; then whisk the
boiling stock, pouring the whites of eggs, &c., in whilst so doing,
which continue until nearly boiling again, then take it from the fire,
let it remain until the whites of eggs separate themselves, pass it
through a clean fine cloth into a basin; this must be taken as a rule
for every kind of clear soup, which must be strictly followed by every
person wishing to profit by this little work. These principles, once
learned, would be useful at all times, and save a great deal of useless
reference in the perusal of these receipts; and no persons can make
themselves answerable for the success of any individual in making soups
if the instructions recommended be not strictly followed. The following
rule should be therefore punctually attended to.

All clear soups ought not to be too strong of meat, and must be of a
light brown sherry or straw color. All white or brown thick soups should
be rather thin, with just sufficient consistency to adhere lightly to a
spoon when hot, soups of fish, poultry, or game especially. All purées,
no matter whether of meat or vegetables, require to be somewhat thicker,
which may be ascertained by its adhering more thickly to the spoon.
Every Italian soup must be very clear, rather stronger of meat, and the
color of pale sherry.

     By following the few foregoing observations, experience will teach
     you volumes; for as there is a great difference in the quality of
     different materials (flour, for instance, which, if strong, would
     tend to thicken, but, if weak, actually almost turns to water by
     boiling), therefore your judgment, with the above few important
     remarks, will make you more perfect than the most precise
     quantities of weights and measurements, upon that important point.


181. _Clear Vegetable Soup._--Peel a middling-sized carrot and turnip,
which cut first into slices, then into small square pieces about the
size of dice; peel also eighteen button onions; wash the whole in cold
water, and drain them upon a sieve; when dry, put them into a stewpan
with two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; set them
upon a very sharp fire for ten minutes, tossing them over every now and
then until the vegetables become covered with a thin shiny glaze, which
may take rather more than the before-mentioned time; care, however, must
be taken, for should you let them get brown, the flavor of the soup
would be spoiled; whilst, upon the other hand, if put in whilst
surrounded with a whitish liquid, your soup would look white and
unsightly; with a little attention, however, success is certain; and,
once accomplished, there would be no difficulty in making any vegetable
soups or sauce, therefore it is very desirable to know how to do it
properly. When done, pour two quarts of clear broth over them, set it
upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling, place it at the
corner to simmer, until the vegetables are quite tender (the onions
especially), carefully skimming off all the butter as it rises to the
surface; it will require about half an hour's simmering, and there
should be half a pound of vegetables to two quarts of stock; taste if
properly seasoned, which it ought to be with the above proportions, but
use your own judgment accordingly.

By following the last process correctly, the only difference to be made
in those descriptions of soup is in the shape the vegetables are cut.


182. _Printanière Soup._--Cut a small quantity of vegetables as in the
last, but rather less carrot and turnip, introducing a little celery,
leek, and young spring onions, instead of the button onions; proceed
exactly as before, but ten minutes before taking it from the fire, wash
a few leaves of sorrel, which cut small and put into the soup, with six
sprigs of chervil; in summer, a few fresh-boiled peas or French beans
served in it is an improvement.

In whatever shape you may cut the vegetables for soup, always be
cautious not to cut some pieces larger than others, and the whole of
them rather small than large; for if some pieces should be small and
others large, the smaller pieces would be quite in purée, whilst the
larger ones would still be quite hard, which would cause your soup not
only to eat badly, but give it an unsightly appearance, for the
vegetable boiled to a purée would make the soup thick. The above remark,
although simple, is still very important.


183. _Julienne Soup._--This soup is entirely the hereditary property of
France, and is supposed to be so called from the months of June and
July, when all vegetables are in full season; and to make it in reality
as originally made, a small quantity of every description of vegetables
should be used, including lettuce, sorrel, and tarragon; however, some
few sorts of vegetables mixed together make a most estimable soup. Weigh
half a pound of the vegetables in fair proportions to each other; that
is, carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and leeks, which cut into small
fillets an inch in length, and of the thickness of a trussing-needle;
when done, wash dry, and pass them in butter and sugar as before,
proceeding the same with the soup, adding just before it is done a
little sorrel, cabbage-lettuce, and chervil or peas, if handy, but it
would be excellent without either.


184. _Clear Turnip Soup._--Cut, with a round vegetable scoop, about
forty pieces of turnip, of the shape and size of small marbles, which
put into a stewpan, with sugar and butter as before, but fry them of a
light brownish color, and finish the soup, as in the previous receipts.
A tablespoonful of Italian paste, previously half boiled in water, then
drained and finished in the soup, is also an improvement.


185. _Clear Artichoke Soup._--Peel twelve Jerusalem artichokes, which
well wash, then cut as many round scoops as possible, the same as in the
last, proceeding exactly the same. The remainder of either turnips,
artichokes, or carrots may be boiled, and mashed with a little butter,
pepper, and salt, and served as a vegetable, or reserved to make a soup
purée; the remains of other vegetables from the previous soups should
also be reserved for flavoring of stock, instead of using the fresh
vegetables.


186. _Vermicelli._--Put a quart of clear stock into a stewpan upon the
fire, and when boiling add two ounces of vermicelli; boil gently ten
minutes, and it is ready to serve.


187. _Italian Paste._--Procure some small Italian paste, in stars,
rings, or any other shape, but small; put on a quart of stock, and when
boiling, add two ounces of the paste; boil twenty minutes, or rather
more, when it is ready to serve.


188. _Semoulina._--When the stock is boiling, add two tablespoonfuls of
semoulina; boil twenty minutes, and it is then done. Proceed the same
also with tapioca and sago.


189. _Macaroni._--Boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni, in a quart of
water, for ten minutes, then strain it off, and throw it into two quarts
of boiling stock; let simmer gently for half an hour, when serve, with
grated cheese, upon a plate separately.


190. _Rice._--Well wash two ounces of the best rice, strain off the
water, put the rice into a stewpan, with a quart of cold stock, place it
upon the fire, and let simmer about half an hour, until the rice is very
tender, but not in pulp.


191. _Mutton Broth._--Any description of trimmings of mutton may be used
for broth, but the scrag ends of the neck are usually chosen; put two
scrags into a stewpan (having previously jointed the bones), with three
onions, three turnips, and one carrot, fill up the stewpan with a gallon
of water, and place it upon the fire; when boiling set it at the corner,
where let it simmer for three hours, keeping it well skimmed; then cut a
small carrot, two turnips, an onion, with a little leek and celery, into
small square pieces, which put into another stewpan, with a wineglassful
of pearl-barley; skim every particle of fat from the broth, which pour
through a hair sieve over them; let the whole boil gently at the corner
of the fire until the barley is tender, when it is ready to serve; the
meat may be trimmed into neat pieces and served with the broth, or
separately with melted butter and parsley, or onion sauce. Half or even
a quarter of the above quantity can be made by reducing the ingredients
in proportion.


192. _Irish Soup made of Mutton Broth._--This soup is made similar to
the last, adding ten or twelve mealy potatoes, cut into large dice,
omitting the other vegetables, which, being boiled to a purée, thickens
the broth; just before serving, throw in twenty heads of parsley, and at
the same time add a few flowers of marigold, which will really give it a
very pleasing flavor.


193. _Scotch Cock-a-leekie._--Trim two or three bunches of fine winter
leeks, cutting off the roots and part of the heads, then split each in
halves lengthwise, and each half into three, which wash well in two or
three waters, then put them into a stewpan, with a stock previously made
as directed (No. 175), and a fowl trussed as for boiling; let the whole
simmer very gently at the corner of the fire for three hours, keeping it
well skimmed, seasoning a little if required; half an hour before
serving add two dozen French plums, without breaking them; when ready to
serve, take out the fowl, which cut into neat pieces, place them in a
tureen, and pour the leeks and broth over, the leeks being then partly
in purée; if too thick, however, add a drop more broth or water. Should
the leeks happen to be old and strong, it would be better to blanch them
five minutes in a gallon of boiling water previous to putting them in
the stock.

I prefer a young fowl; but, should an old one be most handy, stew it a
short time in the stock before passing it. This soup will keep good
several days, and would improve by warming a second time.


194. _Ox-tail Soup._--Cut up two ox-tails, separating them at the
joints, put a small piece of butter at the bottom of a stewpan, then put
in the ox-tails, with a carrot, a turnip, three onions, a head of
celery, a leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; and half a
pint of water, and twelve grains of whole pepper, set over a sharp fire,
stirring occasionally, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a
thickish brown glaze, then add a quarter of a pound of flour, stir it
well in, and fill up the stewpan with three quarts of water, add a
tablespoonful of salt, and stir occasionally until boiling, when set it
upon the corner of the stove, skim well, add a gill of good brown gravy,
or a few drops of browning, and let simmer until the tails are stewed
very tender, the flesh coming easily from the bones, then take them out
immediately, and put them into your tureen; pass the soup through a hair
sieve over them, add a head of celery, previously cut small, and boiled
in a little stock, and serve.

Ox-tail soup may also be made clear by omitting the flour, and serving
with vegetables, as directed for the clear vegetable soup (No. 181).


195. _Ox-cheek Soup._--Blanch in boiling water two ox-cheeks, cut off
the beard, take away all the bone, which chop up, and cut the flesh into
middling-sized pieces, leaving the cheek-part whole; put all together
into a stewpan, with four quarts of water, a little salt, ten
peppercorns, two carrots, two turnips, one leek, one head of celery, and
a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; let it stew at the corner of
the fire six hours, keeping it well skimmed, then take out the fleshy
part of the cheeks, and pass the broth through a hair-sieve into another
stewpan; mix a quarter of a pound of flour with a pint of cold broth,
which pour into it, and stir over the fire until boiling, when place it
at the corner (adding two heads of celery, cut very fine, and a glass of
sherry); when the celery is tender, cut the meat into small square
pieces, keep them warm in the tureen, and when the soup is ready, pour
over, and serve; give it a nice color with browning.

Sheeps' or lambs' heads also make very good soup by following the above
receipt, and adding two pounds of veal, mutton, or beef to the stock:
two heads would be sufficient, and they would not require so long to
stew.


196. _White Mock-turtle Soup._--Procure half a calf's head (scalded, not
skinned), bone it, then cut up a knuckle of veal, which put into a
stewpan, well buttered at the bottom, with half a pound of lean ham, an
ounce of salt, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, a head of celery, a
leek, a bunch of parsley, and a bay-leaf, add half a pint of water; set
it upon the fire, moving it round occasionally, until the bottom of the
stewpan is covered with a white glaze; then add six quarts of water, and
put in the half head, let simmer upon the corner of the fire for two
hours and a half, or until the head is tender, then take it out, and
press it between two dishes, and pass the stock through a hair sieve
into a basin; then in another stewpan have a quarter of a pound of
butter, with a sprig of thyme, basil, marjoram, and bay-leaf, let the
butter get quite hot, then add six ounces of flour to form a roux, stir
over a sharp fire a few minutes, keeping it quite white; stand it off
the fire to cool, then add the stock, stir over the fire until boiling,
then stand it at the corner, skim off all the fat, and pass it through a
hair sieve into another stewpan; cut the head into pieces an inch
square, but not too thick, and put them into the soup, which season with
a little cayenne pepper; when the pieces are hot, add a gill of cream,
and pour it into your tureen.

The above quantity would make two tureens of soup, and will keep good
several days, but of course half the quantity could be made.


197. _Brown Mock-turtle._--Proceed the same as in the last article, only
coloring the stock by drawing it down to a brown glaze, likewise adding
half a pint of brown gravy (No. 177), omitting the cream, and adding two
glasses of sherry.


198. _Mulligatawny Soup._--Cut up a knuckle of veal, which put into a
stewpan, with a piece of butter, half a pound of lean ham, a carrot, a
turnip, three onions, and six apples, add half a pint of water; set the
stewpan over a sharp fire, moving the meat round occasionally, let
remain until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a brownish glaze,
then add three tablespoonfuls of curry powder, one of curry paste, and
half a pound of flour, stir well in, and fill the stewpan with a gallon
of water; add a spoonful of salt, the half of one of sugar, when
boiling, place it at the corner of the fire, and let it simmer two hours
and a half, skimming off all the fat as it rises, then pass it through a
tammy into a tureen; trim some of the pieces of veal, and put it back in
the stewpan to boil, and serve with plain boiled rice separate. Ox-tails
or pieces of rabbits, chickens, &c., left from a previous dinner may be
served in it instead of the veal. The veal is exceedingly good to eat.


199. _Giblet Soup._--Clean two sets of giblets, which soak for two
hours, cut them into equal sizes, and put them into a stewpan, with a
quarter of a pound of butter, four pounds of veal or beef, half a pound
of ham, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, two ounces of salt, and a
bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves; place the stewpan over a sharp
fire, stirring the meat round occasionally; when the bottom of the
stewpan is covered with a light glaze, add a quarter of a pound of
flour, stir well in, and fill up with a gallon of water, add about a
pint of brown gravy (No. 177), stir occasionally until boiling, then set
it at the corner of the stove to simmer, keeping it well skimmed; when
the giblets are tender, take them out, put them into your tureen, pass
the soup through a hair sieve over, and serve; twenty cooked button
onions, or any small-shaped vegetables served in it, is very good, as is
also a glass of port wine.


200. _Oyster Soup._--Put four dozen of oysters into a stewpan with their
liquor, place them upon the fire, when upon the point of boiling, drain
them upon a sieve, catching the liquor in a basin; take off the beards,
which put into the liquor, putting the oysters into a soup tureen; then
put a quarter of a pound of butter into another stewpan over the fire,
and when melted add six ounces of flour, stir over a slow fire for a
short time, but keeping it quite white; let it cool, then add the liquor
and beards of the oysters, a quart of milk, and two quarts of stock (No.
175), stir over the fire until boiling, then season with a teaspoonful
of salt, half a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, five peppercorns, half a
blade of mace, a tablespoonful of Harvey sauce, half ditto of essence of
anchovies; let boil quickly at the corner for ten minutes, skim it well,
add a gill of cream, if handy, strain through a hair sieve over the
oysters, and serve.


201. _The Fisherman's Soup._--Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a
stewpan, and when melted add six ounces of flour, stir well together
over a slow fire a few minutes, when cool, add one quart of milk, and
two quarts of stock (No. 175), stir over a fire until boiling; having
previously filleted two soles, add the bones and trimmings to the soup,
with four cloves, one blade of mace, two bay-leaves, one spoonful of
essence of anchovies, one ditto of Harvey sauce, half a saltspoonful of
cayenne, a little sugar and salt if required; let the whole boil quickly
at the corner for ten minutes, keeping it well skimmed; cut each fillet
of sole into six pieces, put them into another stewpan, with half a
handful of picked parsley, pass the soup through a hair sieve over, boil
again ten minutes, add a gill of cream, if handy, and it is ready to
serve.


202. _Autumn Soup._--Cut up four cabbage-lettuces, one cos ditto, a
handful of sorrel, and a little tarragon and chervil, when well washed
and drained, put them into a stewpan, with two cucumbers finely sliced,
and two ounces of butter, place them over a brisk fire, stirring
occasionally, until very little liquid remains, then add two
tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring it well in, then pour over three
quarts of stock, made as directed (No. 175), adding a quart of young and
fresh green peas; half an hour's boiling will suffice for this delicious
soup, and the flavor of the vegetables will be fully preserved; season
with a teaspoonful of salt, and two of sugar.


203. _Hodge Podge._--Cut two pounds of fresh scrag of mutton into small
pieces, which put into a stewpan, with three quarts of cold water and a
tablespoonful of salt, set it upon the fire, and when boiling place it
at the corner to simmer, keeping it well skimmed; let it simmer an hour,
then add a good-sized carrot, two turnips, two large onions cut into
small dice, and six cabbage-lettuces, if in season (the whole well
washed), and let simmer until quite tender; skim off all the fat, and
serve either with the meat in the soup or separately. If in season, a
pint of green peas boiled in the soup is a great improvement.


204. _French Cabbage Soup._--This is a soup very much in vogue amongst
the middle classes of the French people; it is very economical, and may
satisfy a numerous family at a trifling expense. Put a gallon of water
into a saucepan, with two pounds of streaky pickled pork or bacon,
whichever most convenient, to which add a couple of pounds of white
cabbage, cut in strips (using every part but the stalk, and previously
well washed), two large onions, a carrot, a turnip, and a head of
celery; let the whole boil three or four hours, until the pork is
tender, skimming off all the fat, season with a little black pepper,
brown sugar, and salt, if required (which is not very frequently the
case, the pork or bacon generally being sufficiently so), lay slices of
bread in your tureen (about one pound), pour the soup over; keep the
tureen covered ten minutes, until the bread is soaked, and it is ready
to serve. The pork or bacon may be either served separate or cut into
small square pieces, and served in the soup. A few mealy potatoes are
sometimes introduced, or a quart of large green peas, or a pint of dry
split peas. You must observe that vegetables in France are much more
used than in this country, as there are but few poor people there who do
not possess a little garden, in which they grow their own.

It is also frequently made _maigre_ by omitting the pork or bacon,
adding more vegetables of all kinds, and a quarter of a pound of butter,
and frequently where they have nothing else but cabbage, they make it
only of that; now setting all national feeling aside respecting the
poverty of their meals, I have known strong healthy men make a hearty
meal of it, preferring it to meat, of which they scarcely ever partake.


205. _Purée of Vegetable Soup._--Peel and cut up very finely three
onions, three turnips, one carrot, and four potatoes, which put into a
stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean ham, and
a bunch of parsley; pass them ten minutes over a sharp fire, when add a
good spoonful of flour, which mix well in, add two quarts of stock, and
a pint of boiling milk, stir it until boiling; season with a little salt
and sugar, rub it through a tammy, put it into another stewpan, boil
again, skim and serve with croutons of fried bread as for Palestine
Soup. It ought to be thickish.


206. _Palestine Soup, or Purée of Artichokes._--Have a quarter of a
pound of lean bacon or ham, as also an onion, a turnip, and a little
celery, cut the whole into small thin slices, and put them into a
stewpan, with two ounces of butter; place them over a sharp fire,
keeping them stirred, about twenty minutes, or until forming a whitish
glaze at the bottom, then have ready washed, peeled, and cut into thin
slices, the artichokes, which put into the stewpan with a pint of broth
or water, and stew until quite tender, then mix in two tablespoonfuls of
flour quite smoothly, add two quarts of stock made as directed (No.
175), and half a pint of milk; keep it constantly stirred until boiling;
season with a teaspoonful of salt, and two of sugar, then rub it through
a tammy, place it again in a stewpan; let it boil five minutes, keeping
it well skimmed, and serve with very small croutons of bread (fried in
butter, and dried upon a cloth) in the tureen; a gill of cream, stirred
in at the moment of serving, is a great improvement, although it may be
omitted.


207. _Purée of Cauliflower Soup._--Proceed as described for the purée of
artichokes, but omitting the artichokes, and substituting four
middling-sized cauliflowers, previously boiled and chopped fine.

A purée of turnips is likewise made in the same manner as a purée of
artichokes, substituting turnips for artichokes, and adding half a
tablespoonful more of flour. A purée of white Belgian carrot, called
"Crécy à la Reine," is made in the same way, and is uncommon and
delicate.


208. _Crécy Soup, or Purée of Carrots._--Procure five or six large
carrots, as red as possible, which well scrape, then shave them into
very thin slices, taking off all the exterior red, but not using the
centre, then peel and slice a large onion, a turnip, a quarter of a
pound of lean ham, a few sprigs of parsley, and two bay-leaves; put them
into a stewpan, with four ounces of butter, fry the whole of a light
yellowish color, then add the carrot, with a pint of water, and let them
stew until perfectly tender, mix in two ounces of flour quite smoothly,
and add five pints of stock (No. 175); season with a little salt and
sugar, and stir upon the fire until boiling, a quarter of an hour, when
pass it through a tammy, and finish and serve as in the preceding; no
cream, however, must be added. This soup ought to be of a red color.


209. _Green Pea Soup._--Put two quarts of green peas into a stewpan
with a quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of lean ham,
cut into small dice, two onions in slices, and a few sprigs of parsley;
add a quart of cold water, and with the hands rub all well together;
then pour off the water, cover the stewpan close, and stand it over a
sharp fire, stirring the contents round occasionally; when very tender,
add two tablespoonfuls of flour, which mix well in mashing the peas with
your spoon against the sides of the stewpan, add two quarts of stock, or
broth from the Pot-au-feu, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a little pepper
and salt, if required; boil all well together five minutes, when rub it
through a tammy or hair sieve; then put it into another stewpan, with a
pint of boiling milk; boil five minutes, skim well, and pour it into
your tureen. It must not be too thick, serve with croutons of bread as
for Palestine.


210. _Winter Pea Soup._--Wash a quart of split peas, which put into a
stewpan, with half a pound of streaky bacon, two onions in slices, two
pounds of veal or beef, cut into small pieces, and a little parsley,
thyme, and bay-leaf, add a gallon of water, with a little salt and
sugar, place it upon the fire, and when boiling, stand it at the side
until the peas are boiled to a purée, and the water has reduced to half,
then take out the meat, which put upon a dish, to be eaten with the
bacon, keeping it hot, rub the soup through a hair sieve or tammy, put
it into another stewpan, and when boiling, serve. The meat may also be
served in the tureen if approved of. Maigre pea soup may also be made by
omitting the meat, adding half a pound of butter, one quart of milk, and
omitting a quart of water.


211. _Lentil Soup._--Cut three onions, a turnip, and the half of a
carrot into very thin slices, which put into a stewpan, with a quarter
of a pound of butter, a few sprigs of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and two
bay-leaves, add also two pounds of leg of beef, cut into small dice; set
the stewpan upon the fire, stirring with a wooden spoon, until its
contents are fried rather brownish, when add one quart of lentils, and
three of water, let the whole simmer until the lentils are very tender,
when season with nearly an ounce of salt, and half that quantity of
sugar; it is then ready to serve.

To make a purée of lentils:--when the soup is made, strain off the
broth, add a good spoonful of flour to the lentils, which mash with a
wooden spoon against the side of the stewpan; then again put in the
broth, boil all up together, keeping it stirred with a spoon; rub it
through a tammy or hair sieve, again boil and skim, and it is ready;
serve with a few croutons of bread, as directed for Palestine soup.


212. _Maigre Soup._--Cut two onions into very small dice, and put them
into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter; fry them a short time, but
not to discolor them; have ready three or four handfuls of well-washed
sorrel, which cut into ribands and put into the stewpan with the onions,
add one tablespoonful of flour, then mix well a pint of milk and a quart
of water; boil altogether twenty minutes, keeping it stirred; season
with a teaspoonful of sugar and salt, take it from the fire, and stir in
quickly a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream or
milk (it must not boil afterwards), put the crust of a French roll, cut
into strips, in the tureen, pour the soup over, and serve very hot.


213. _Onion Soup Maigre._--Peel and cut six large onions into small
dice, put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter,
place them over the fire until well fried, when well mix in a
tablespoonful of flour, and rather better than a quart of water; boil
until the onions are quite tender, season with a spoonful of salt and a
little sugar; finish with a liaison, and serve as in the last.


214. _Hare Soup._--Put half a pound of butter into a stewpan, and, when
melted, add three quarters of a pound of flour, and half a pound of
streaky bacon, cut into very small pieces; keep stirring over the fire
until becoming lightly browned. You have previously cut up a hare into
neat smallish pieces; put them into the stewpan, and keep stirring round
over the fire, until they are set; then fill it up with five quarts of
water, add two onions, a head of celery, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and
bay-leaves, a blade of mace, and four cloves; when boiling, season with
one ounce of salt and a little pepper, and let it simmer at the corner
until the pieces of hare are done, which would be in about an hour if a
young hare, but double that time if a very old one; the better plan is
to try a piece occasionally. When done, take out the best pieces, and
the inferior ones pound in a mortar, removing the bones, put it back in
the soup, and pass all through a tammy, boil for ten minutes, and put it
again into a stewpan, and serve. The above quantity would be sufficient
for two tureens. A glass of wine may be added. Rabbit, pheasant, grouse,
partridge, and other game soups, may be made in the same way.


215. _French Pot-au-feu._--Out of this earthen pot comes the favorite
soup and bouilli, which has been everlastingly famed as having been the
support of many generations of all classes of society in France; from
the opulent to the poorest individuals, all pay tribute to its
excellence and worth. In fact this soup and bouilli is to the French
what the roast beef and plum-pudding is on a Sunday to the English. No
dinner in France is served without soup, and no good soup is supposed to
be made without the pot-au-feu.

The following is the receipt:--Put in the pot-au-feu six pounds of beef,
four quarts of water, set near the fire, skim; when nearly boiling add a
spoonful and a half of salt, half a pound of liver, two carrots, four
turnips, eight young or two old leeks, one head of celery, two onions
and one burnt, with a clove in each, and a piece of parsnip, skim again,
and let simmer four or five hours, adding a little cold water now and
then; take off part of the fat, put slices of bread into the tureen, lay
half the vegetables over, and half the broth, and serve the meat
separate with the vegetables around.


CRAB SOUP.--We add to the list of M. Soyer's soups, a receipt for a
purely American soup, a great favorite at the South, and esteemed a
great luxury by those who have eaten of it--ED.

[Open and cleanse twelve young fat crabs (raw), and cut them into two
parts; parboil and extract the meat from the claws, and the fat from the
top shell. Scald eighteen ripe tomatos; skin them and squeeze the pulp
from the seed, and chop it fine; pour boiling water over the seed and
juice, and having strained it from the seed, use it to make the soup.
Stew a short time in the soup-pot three large onions, one clove of
garlic, in one spoonful of butter, two spoonfuls of lard, and then put
in the tomatos, and after stewing a few minutes, add the meat from the
crab claws, then the crabs, and last the fat from the back shell of the
crab; sift over it grated bread-crumbs or crackers. Season with salt,
Cayenne and black pepper, parsley, sweet marjoram, thyme, half
teaspoonful lemon juice, and the peel of a lemon; pour in the water with
which the seed were scalded, and boil it moderately one hour.

Any firm fish may be substituted for the crab.]




FISH.


     Of all aliments that have been given to the human race for
     nourishment, none are more abundant or more easy of procuring than
     this antediluvian species, and yet of how few do we make use, and
     how slight is our knowledge of their habits, for it is only within
     the last few years that the idea was exploded that the herrings
     made an annual migration from the Arctic seas to deposit their
     spawn on the shores of the British islands. It possesses, according
     to its kind, a greater or less degree of nourishment, depending,
     like the animal, in a great measure on those beautiful meadows at
     the bottom of the ocean, where it feeds; for even those which live
     upon some of a smaller kind, as the cod on the haddock, that on the
     whiting, and that again on the mussel, or other crustaceous fish,
     which move but little from the place where they were originally
     spawned, derive their nourishment from the herbs and the animalculæ
     which those herbs produce that lay around them; the cod on the
     southeast of the Bank of Newfoundland is as fine again in flavor as
     that on the north-west side. Fish, of course, do not afford the
     same amount of nourishment as meat, as they contain but a slight
     quantity of osmazome; but its flesh is refreshing, and often
     exciting. A curious circumstance has been observed in respect to
     the animate parts of the creation which draw their nourishment from
     fish, as in birds and the human race, that they produce more
     females when doing so than males.

     It ought to be made an article of diet more often than it is, as
     the particles it contains tend to purify the blood from the
     grossness it receives in partaking of animal food; and when taken
     at the commencement of dinner, tends to assist the digestion of
     those substances which form the more substantial part of the meal.

     In the receipts will be found those which I consider fit for the
     table; but, as a general rule to be observed, as in the feathered
     tribe, all those of beautiful _variegated_ colors are more unfit to
     eat than any other; as if the great Creator of all, in order to
     please man, had destined some for his nourishment, and others to
     gratify his senses by their melodious notes and beautiful plumage.

     Nothing indicates its freshness so well as fish; the merest novice
     ought to know it; their gills should be difficult to open, be red,
     and swell well; fins tight and close; eyes bright, and not sunk:
     the contrary to this denotes their being stale.

     Of the round fish, the SALMON is considered the best and most
     delicate in flavor, but varies considerably, according to the river
     in which it is caught; for there is no doubt but that it returns to
     the river where it was originally spawned, and its time of spawning
     varies in different rivers. The male is the finest flavored fish,
     and has more curd than the female. Of late years it has been
     considered that this fish should be eaten as fresh as possible, for
     which purpose it is crimped when alive, that it may be flaky, and
     the curd in it. In former times, it was considered best to keep it
     two or three days; it is certain that, in keeping it, the curd
     undergoes a change, which produces a volatile salt, oily and
     balsamic particles, render it nutritive and invigorating; it is
     diuretic, pectoral, and restorative, and if eaten too profusely
     produces vomiting; but when the curd is in it, the flesh is hard
     and dry, lies heavy on the stomach, and produces indigestion. This
     fish, when out of season, may be distinguished by having large
     scarlet, purple, and blue spots on its sides, the male snout long,
     the female snout hooked. When in season, the color ought to be a
     silvery pink gray; when cooked, the flesh should be of a dark rose
     color; when out of season it is pale; small-headed fish are the
     best.

     This fish was known to the Romans, who received it from Aquitaine
     and the Moselle.


216. _Salmon, plain boiled._--I prefer always dressing this fish in
slices from an inch to two inches in thickness, boiling it in plenty of
salt water about twenty minutes; the whole fish may be boiled, or the
head and shoulders of a large fish, but they require longer boiling.
Salmon eats firmer by not being put into the water until boiling. Dress
the fish upon a napkin, and serve with lobster sauce, shrimp ditto, or
plain melted butter in a boat, with fresh sprigs of parsley boiled a few
minutes in it. A salmon weighing about ten pounds will require an hour's
gentle boiling; a head and shoulders weighing six pounds, half an hour;
the remains may be dressed à la crême, as directed for the turbot.


217. _Salmon, Sauce Matelote._--Cook three good slices of salmon as
directed in the last, or a large salmon peal trussed in the form of the
letter S, dress it upon a dish without a napkin, having previously
drained off all the water; have ready one quart of matelote sauce, under
or over.

To broil salmon, dip each piece in flour, put it on a gridiron, fifteen
minutes will give it a nice pale color; it should be served with Dutch
or caper sauce.


     _Cod._--This fish, like the former, belongs to the northern parts
     of the world; its flavor and quality, like terrestrial animals,
     depend greatly on its feeding-place, a few miles making a marked
     difference; it is exceedingly voracious. Those are best with a
     small head and thick at the neck.


218. _To boil Cod Fish._--Crimped cod, as I have before remarked, is
preferable to the plain; it is likewise better cut in slices than cooked
whole; to boil it well, have the water ready boiling, with one pound of
salt to every six quarts, put in your fish, draw the fish-kettle to the
corner of the fire, where let it simmer slowly from twenty minutes to
half an hour, when done, the bone in the centre will draw out easily; if
boiled too much, it would eat tough and stringy; should the fish not be
crimped, add more salt to the water, it will cause the fish to eat
firmer.


219. _Cod Fish sauced over with Oyster Sauce._--Boil three slices of the
fish as above, drain and dress them upon a dish without a napkin, blanch
three dozen oysters, by putting them into a stewpan, with their juice,
upon the fire, move them round occasionally, do not let them boil; as
soon as they become a little firm, place a sieve over a basin, pour in
the oysters, beard and throw them again into their liquor, put them into
a stewpan; when boiling, add two cloves, half a blade of mace, six
peppercorns, and two ounces of butter, to which you have added a
tablespoonful of flour, breaking it into small pieces, stir well
together, when boiling, season with a little salt, cayenne pepper, and
essence of anchovies, finish with a gill of cream or milk, and sauce
over. The remains of this fish may be taken from the bone and placed
upon a dish, with a little of the above sauce (to which you have added
the yolks of two eggs) over, sprinkle over with bread-crumbs, and place
it twenty minutes in a hot oven, till the bread-crumbs become brown.


220. _Salt Fish._--Choose the fish with a black skin, and be particular
in soaking it well; to boil, put it into a fish-kettle, with plenty of
cold water, place it over the fire, and the moment it boils remove it to
the corner, to simmer until done, which, if a piece weighing about three
pounds, would be in about twenty minutes; do not let it boil fast, or
the fish would eat hard and thready; dish it upon a napkin, with plain
boiled parsnips and parsley round, and serve egg sauce in a boat.


     _Haddock_, the callarias and galeris of the Romans. This is also
     the fish that it is said St. Peter took the tribute money from, and
     thus gave the impression of his finger and thumb, where it remains
     in confirmation of the miracle. It has a very fine flavor when
     fresh and in season, which is when the roe is very small; the time
     depends on the place where taken, but generally about October. I
     think one weighing from six to seven pounds is the best size,
     although I have had them at twelve pounds. The same features as in
     the cod will tell if they are fresh.


221. _Haddock._--This is a fish which I can highly recommend, both for
its firmness and lightness; it is excellent plain boiled, and served
with a cream sauce or any other fish sauce. But the better plan is to
cut four or five incisions upon each side of the fish, an inch deep,
then put it into a deep dish, and cover well with salt, let it remain
about two hours, then put the fish in boiling water, to simmer from
thirty to forty minutes; if a fish of five or six pounds in weight, dish
it on a napkin garnished with plain boiled parsnips and parsley, with
egg sauce in a boat.


222. _Baked Haddock._--Fill the interior of the fish with veal stuffing,
sew it up with packthread, and truss it with the tail in its mouth, rub
a piece of butter over the back, or egg and bread-crumb it over, set it
on a baking-dish, which put in a warmish oven to bake, if a Dublin bay
haddock, it would take from three quarters of an hour to an hour, but a
common haddock would require but half an hour; the better plan is to run
the point of a knife down to the backbone, from which, if the flesh
parts easily, it is done, when dress it upon a dish without a napkin,
and serve a Beyrout sauce, or any other, round.


     _Sturgeon_ derives its name from the German _stoeren_, to stir, to
     rake up; it is from the same word we derive our word _stir_. It is
     the accipenser of the Romans. This fish has long been in use in
     England, but, from its scarcity, it has always been
     expensive--indeed, it has been considered as a royal fish; for
     every one caught in the rivers of England belongs to the Queen,
     with the exception of the river Thames, which belongs to the Lord
     Mayor. The flavor of the young sturgeon is extremely delicate, but
     that materially depends upon the river in which it is caught, as it
     feeds upon the insects and plants,--in fact, entirely by suction;
     those caught in rapid rivers and sandy bottoms, and where they have
     the advantage of salt and fresh water, are the best.


223. _Economical mode of cooking Sturgeon._--Take a piece of sturgeon
about two pounds weight, and on sending a piece of meat to the baker's
to be baked on a stand in a dish, put the sturgeon under it, with a
little water, salt, pepper, &c., and a little chopped eschalot may be
used; you can also put potatoes round it. Peas, if in season, are a good
accompaniment, with melted butter.


224. _To roast Sturgeon._--Take the tail part, skin and bone it; fill
the part where the bone comes from with some stuffing, as for a fillet
of veal; put butter and paper round it, and tie it up like a fillet of
veal; roast, and serve it with melted butter and gravy.

     They may be cooked precisely as veal, in large or small pieces, as
     for fricandeau, papillote, &c., and even salted, in imitation of
     tunny.


     _Mackerel._--This is generally recognized as the scomber of the
     Romans, by whom it was much esteemed; at the present day it is not
     held in that high estimation that it was some years since: the
     great supply which is now received from different parts of the
     coast at all seasons of the year may have a tendency to cause this.
     It is a fish which requires to be eaten very fresh, and soon
     becomes tainted. The soft roe of this fish is highly esteemed, and
     I have no doubt but that it was equally so with the Romans, and I
     believe it was an ingredient of the garum. When fresh, their skin
     is of a sea-green color, and very beautiful; fine bright golden
     eyes, and gills very red; they should be plump, but not too large;
     they should be cleaned by cutting their gills, so that, when
     pulled, the interior of the fish will come with them; wipe them
     well, cut off the fins, and trim the tail.


225. _Mackerel_ are generally served plain boiled; put them in a kettle
containing boiling water, well salted, let simmer nearly half an hour,
take them up, drain, and dish them upon a napkin; serve melted butter in
a boat, with which you have mixed a tablespoonful of chopped fennel,
boiling it a few minutes.


226. _Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel._--Cut an incision down the back of a
mackerel, close to the bone, season it with a little pepper, salt, and
cayenne, if approved of, butter the skin well, and place the fish upon a
gridiron over a moderate fire, for about twenty minutes, turning it over
when half done; when done, have ready two ounces of maître d'hôtel
butter, half of which put in the incision at the back, previously
putting the mackerel upon a hot dish without a napkin, spread the other
half over; place it in the oven a few minutes, and serve very hot.


227. _Mackerel au Beurre Noir._--Split the mackerel open at the back,
making it quite flat, season with a little pepper and salt, and butter
it all over, lay it upon a gridiron over a moderate fire, turning it
when half done, for about a quarter of an hour, when place it upon a
dish without a napkin, then put six ounces of fresh butter in a stewpan,
which place over a sharp fire until the butter becomes black, but not
burnt, when throw in about fifty leaves of picked parsley, which fry
crisp, and pour over the fish, put three tablespoonfuls of common
vinegar into the stewpan, which boil half a minute, season with pepper
and salt, pour this also over the fish, which put into the oven five
minutes, and serve very hot.


228. _To stew Mackerel._--Take off the heads, the fins, and tails, and,
having opened the fish and taken out all the hard roes, dry them with a
cloth and dredge them lightly with flour; place three or four of them in
a stewpan, with a lump of butter, the size of a walnut, to each fish;
put into a small basin a teacupful of water, a tablespoonful of
finely-chopped onions, the same of chopped parsley, a blade or two of
mace, a little pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of anchovy essence, and
a small teacupful of ale or porter (if not bitter). Add a tablespoonful
of grated bread-crust, not burnt, but a light brown; pour all these
ingredients over the fish, and let them stew gently for twenty minutes;
have ready the yolks of three eggs, well-beaten, and when the fish is
sufficiently done, take some of the gravy and mix gradually with the
eggs, and, pouring them on the fish, shake the stewpan a little over the
fire to thicken the whole, but not to curdle the eggs; the soft roes
added are an improvement: have ready more grated crust, and having
placed the fish whole in the dish, shake a little of the grated crust
over the whole, so as to make it of a handsome brown. The Receipt
requires to be carefully followed. If the gravy is too thick, more water
may be added; also a glass of sherry, if liked.


229. _Fried Whiting._--The whiting is generally skinned, and the tail
turned round and fixed into the mouth; dip it first into flour, then egg
over and dip it into bread-crumbs, fry as directed for the sole; for
whiting aux fines herbes, proceed as directed for sole aux fines herbes.
I prefer the whiting fried with their skins on, merely dipping them in
flour.


230. _Whiting au Gratin._--Put a good spoonful of chopped onions upon a
strong earthen dish, with a glass of wine, season the whiting with a
little pepper and salt, put it in the dish, sprinkle some chopped
parsley and chopped mushrooms over, and pour over half a pint of anchovy
sauce, over which sprinkle some brown bread-crumbs, grated from the
crust of bread, place it in a warm oven half an hour; it requires to be
nicely browned; serve upon the dish you have cooked it in.


231. _Red Mullets._--Procure two red mullets, which place upon a strong
dish, not too large, sprinkle a little chopped onions, parsley, a little
pepper and salt, and a little salad-oil over, and put them into a warm
oven for half an hour, then put half a tablespoonful of chopped onions
in a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of salad-oil, stir over a moderate fire
until getting rather yellowish, then add a tablespoonful of sherry, half
a pint of white sauce or melted butter, with a little chopped parsley;
reduce over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred until becoming rather
thick; when the mullets are done, sauce over and serve.


232. _Red Mullet en papillote._--Cut a sheet of foolscap paper in the
form of a heart, lay it on the table and oil it, put the mullet on one
side, season with salt, pepper, and chopped eschalot, fold the paper
over and plait both edges together, and broil on a slow fire for half an
hour, turning carefully now and then; serve without a napkin; they are
excellent done thus, without sauce, but, if any is required, use melted
butter, cream Hollandaise, anchovy or Italian sauce.


233. _Red Mullets sauté in Butter._--Put two ounces of butter in a pan;
when melted, put in one or two small mullets, and season with a
teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, and the juice of half a
lemon; set it on a slow fire and turn carefully; when done, dish and
serve plain, or with any of the sauces named in the former receipt.


     _Herrings_, when in season, that is, when the roe is just forming,
     are most excellent and wholesome fish, when eaten fresh; I have
     this day (the 25th of April) partaken of some, caught in
     twenty-four fathoms of water, about twelve miles off the coast of
     Folkestone, in which you could just distinguish the formation of
     the roe. The richness of the fish at this period is extraordinary,
     and renders it worthy the table of the greatest epicure.

     As this fish is now of so great importance as an article of food, I
     shall refer more at length to it in my letters on pickling and
     preserving, and give you a description of my new plan of curing and
     smoking, and also what I consider its medicinal and other
     properties. Its different modes of cooking are as follows:


234. _Herrings boiled._--Boil six herrings about twenty minutes in
plenty of salt and water, but only just to simmer; then have ready the
following sauce: put half a gill of cream upon the fire in a stewpan;
when it boils, add eight spoonfuls of melted butter, an ounce of fresh
butter, a little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; dress the
fish upon a dish without a napkin, sauce over and serve.


235. _Herrings broiled, Sauce Dijon._--The delicacy of these fish
prevents their being dressed in any other way than boiled or broiled;
they certainly can be bread-crumbed and fried, but scarcely any person
would like them; I prefer them dressed in the following way: wipe them
well with a cloth, and cut three incisions slantwise upon each side,
dip them in flour and broil slowly over a moderate fire; when done,
sprinkle a little salt over, dress them upon a napkin, garnish with
parsley, and serve the following sauce in a boat: put eight
tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, with two of French
mustard, or one of English, an ounce of fresh butter, and a little
pepper and salt; when upon the point of boiling, serve.


     _Smelts._--Many have confounded them with the salmon-fry or smelt
     of one year old, whereas the smelt has roe and the fry none; it
     ascends rivers to deposit its spawn in November, December, and
     January, and the rest of the year they are considered in season,
     but they vary like the salmon, according to the river. This fish,
     when fresh, has a beautiful smell of violets or cucumbers, but the
     Germans call it stinck fish, I know not why; they lose this perfume
     in about twelve hours after being taken; they should be very stiff
     and firm, bright eyes, and transparent skin. This fish is very
     delicate, and requires very great attention in cleaning, merely
     pulling out the gills, the inside will come with them; they should
     be wiped lightly. When split and dried, they are called sparlings.

236. _To fry Smelts._--Dry them in a cloth, and dip them in flour; then
have half an ounce of butter of clear fat melted in a basin, into which
break the yolk of two eggs, with which rub the smelts over with a brush,
dip them in bread-crumbs, fry in very hot lard, dress them on a napkin,
garnish with parsley, and serve with shrimp sauce in a boat.


     _White Bait._--This is a fish which belongs especially to London;
     although it is obtainable in other rivers in Great Britain and the
     Continent, yet it is not sought for; great difference of opinion
     exists amongst naturalists as to what fish this is the young of; in
     my humble opinion, I think it is a species distinct of itself,
     having a life of short duration. It is caught only in brackish
     water, floating up and down the river, according to the tide,--in
     very dry summers as high up as Greenwich, and in very wet as low as
     Gravesend. They spawn in winter, and make their appearance, about
     one inch in length, early in March. They should be cooked as
     follows:

237. White Bait.--Put them in a cloth, which shake gently so as to dry
them; then place them in some very fine bread-crumbs and flour mixed;
toss them lightly with the hands, take them out immediately and put them
in a wire basket, and fry them in hot lard; one minute will cook them;
turn them out on a cloth, sprinkle a little salt over, and serve very
hot. Should you not have a wire basket, sprinkle them into the pan, and
as soon as they rise take them out.


     _Turbot_ we consider the finest of flat-fish; and so it was, no
     doubt, considered by the Romans: hence the proverb, "Nihil ad
     rhombum," although Linnæus, from his classification, would make us
     believe it was the brill or bret, but I do not think so meanly of
     the epicures of those days as to imagine it. Its flavor depends
     greatly upon the place where taken, resulting from its food,
     feeding principally upon young crabs and lobsters; therefore it is
     not surprising that lobster sauce accompanies it when cooked. I
     prefer them of a middling size, not too large, but thick, and if
     bled when caught, so much the better. Should you be at the seaside,
     and buy one rather cheap, because it has red spots on the belly,
     remove them by rubbing salt and lemon on the spot. In my opinion
     they are better, and more digestible, and of finer flavor,
     forty-eight hours after being killed, than when fresh.


238. _Turbot._--To cook it; cut an incision in the back, rub it well
with a good handful of salt, and then with the juice of a lemon; set it
in a turbot kettle, well covered with cold water, in which you have put
a good handful of salt; place it over the fire, and as soon as boiling,
put it at the side (where it must not be allowed to more than simmer
very slowly, or the fish would have a very unsightly appearance). A
turbot of ten pounds weight will take about an hour to cook after it has
boiled (but, to be certain, ascertain whether the flesh will leave the
bone easily); take it out of the water, let it remain a minute upon the
drainer, and serve upon a napkin, with a few sprigs of fresh parsley
round, and lobster sauce or shrimp sauce, in a boat.


239. _Turbot, the new French fashion._--Boil your turbot as in the last,
but dress it upon a dish without a napkin, sauce over with a thick caper
sauce (having made a border of small new potatoes), sprinkle a few
capers over the fish, and serve.


240. _Turbot à la Crême_ is made from the remains of a turbot left from
a previous dinner; pick all the flesh from the bones, which warm in salt
and water, and have ready the following sauce: put one ounce of flour
into a stewpan, to which add by degrees a quart of milk, mixing it very
smoothly; then add two peeled eschalots, a bouquet of parsley, a
bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme tied together, a little grated nutmeg, a
teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper; place it over the
fire, stirring until it forms rather a thickish sauce, then take it from
the fire, stir in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and pass it
through a tammy; lay a little of it upon the bottom of a convenient
sized dish, then a layer of the fish, season lightly with a little white
pepper and salt, then another layer of sauce, proceeding thus until the
fish is all used, finishing with sauce; sprinkle a few bread-crumbs
over, and put it into a warm oven half an hour; brown with the
salamander, and serve upon the dish it is baked on. Any remains of
boiled fish may be dressed the same way.


241. _Soles fried._--Have about four pounds of lard or clean fat in a
small fish-kettle, which place over a moderate fire, then cut off the
fins of the sole, and dip it into flour, shake part of the flour off,
have an egg well beaten upon a plate, with which brush the fish all
over, and cover it with bread-crumbs; ascertain if the lard is hot, by
throwing in a few bread-crumbs, it will hiss if sufficiently hot, put in
the fish, which will require nearly ten minutes cooking, and ought to be
perfectly crisp, drain it on a cloth, dish upon a napkin, garnish with
parsley, and serve shrimp sauce in a boat.

The above quantity of lard or fat, if carefully used and not burnt,
would do for several occasions, by straining it off each time after
using. All kinds of fish, such as eels, smelts, whitings, flounders,
perch, gudgeons, &c., are fried precisely in the same manner.


242. _Soles, sauté in Oil._--Trim the fish well, dip it into a couple of
eggs, well beaten, put six tablespoonfuls of salad-oil in a sauté-pan,
place it over the fire, and when quite hot put in your sole, let it
remain five minutes, turn over, and sauté upon the other side, ten or
twelve minutes will cook it, according to the size; serve upon a napkin
without sauce; they are excellent cold.


243. _Sole a la Meunière._--Cut the fins off a sole, and make four
incisions across it upon each side with a knife, then rub half a
tablespoonful of salt and chopped onions well into it, dip in flour, and
broil it over a slow fire; also have ready two ounces of fresh butter,
mixed with the juice of a lemon, and a little cayenne, which rub over
the sole, previously laid in a hot dish, without a napkin, turn the fish
over once or twice, put it in the oven a minute, and serve very hot.


244. _Soles aux fines herbes._--Put a spoonful of chopped eschalots into
a sauté-pan, with a glass of sherry and an ounce of butter, place the
sole over, pour nearly half a pint of melted butter over it, or four
spoonfuls of brown gravy or water, upon which sprinkle some chopped
parsley, place it in a moderate oven for half an hour, take the sole out
of the pan, dress upon a dish without a napkin, reduce the sauce that is
in the pan over a sharp fire, add a little Harvey sauce and essence of
anchovy, pour over the sole, and serve.

Soles may also be plain boiled, using the same precautions as directed
for turbot, and serve without a napkin, and a cream sauce poured over;
or it may be served upon a napkin garnished with parsley, and a little
shrimp sauce, or plain melted butter, in a boat.


245. _Flounders, Water Souchet._--Procure four or six Thames flounders,
trim and cut in halves; put half a pint of water in a sauté-pan, with a
little scraped horseradish, a little pepper, salt, sugar, and forty
sprigs of fresh parsley; place over the fire, boil a minute, then add
the flounders, stew ten minutes, take them out and place in a dish
without a napkin, reduce the liquor they were stewed in a little, pour
over and serve.

To fry flounders, trim them, and proceed precisely as directed for fried
soles: three minutes is sufficient.


     _Skate_, also called _Maid_, _Ray_, is not appreciated equal to
     what it ought to be; we generally have only the fin part, which is
     cut off and put into fresh water, where it curls up. It is a very
     invigorating fish, and I think deserves the attention of the
     medical profession. It is best cooked as follows:

246. _Skate._--Procure two or three slices, tie them with string to keep
the shape in boiling, put them into a kettle of boiling water, in which
you have put a good handful of salt; boil gently about twenty minutes
(have ready also a piece of the liver, which boil with them); when done,
drain well, and put them upon a dish without a napkin; put three parts
of a pint of melted butter in a stewpan, place it upon the fire, and
when quite hot add a wineglassful of capers, sauce over, and serve.


247. _Skate au Beurre Noir._--Boil a piece of skate as directed in the
last; when done, drain it well, put it upon a dish without a napkin, and
proceed exactly as directed for mackerel au beurre noir.

Skate may also be served upon a napkin, with a boat of well-seasoned
melted butter, to which you have added a spoonful of Harvey sauce and
one of anchovy.


     _Pike._--This fish spawns in March and April, according to the
     season. When in perfection, their colors are very bright, being
     green, spotted with bright yellow, and the gills are a bright red;
     when out of season, the green changes to gray, and the yellow spots
     assume a pale hue. It may be called the shark of fresh water. Those
     caught in a river or running stream are far superior to those
     caught in ponds, which often get too fat, and taste muddy. A
     middling-sized one, weighing about five pounds, would be best; when
     fresh, the eyes must be very transparent, the scales bluish, and
     not dry upon the back, or it would not clean well. The dressing is
     generally the making of the fish, as regards the approbation
     bestowed upon it. To clean them, have a sharp-pointed knife, put
     the point carefully under the scales (without piercing the skin) at
     the tail of the fish, pass the knife gently up the back to the
     head, dividing the scales from the skin carefully; you may then
     take off the whole of the scales in one piece (should this process
     appear too difficult, they may be scraped off in the ordinary way,
     it will not look so white, but would eat equally as good); then
     make two incisions in the belly, a small one close to the bladder,
     and a larger one above; pull out the gills one at a time with a
     strong cloth, and if the interior does not come with them, take it
     out from the incisions, and wash the fish well; the cutting off the
     fins is quite a matter of taste: it is usually done.


248. _Pike._--Clean as directed above, stuff the interior as directed
for haddocks, only adding some fillets of anchovies and chopped
lemon-peel with it; curl round and put in a baking-dish, spread a little
butter all over, put in a moderate oven, when about half done egg over
with a paste-brush, and sprinkle bread-crumbs upon it; a middling-sized
pike will take about an hour, but that according to the size and the
heat of the oven; when done, dress upon a dish without a napkin, and
sauce round as directed for baked haddock above referred to.


249. _Pike, Sauce Matelote._--Cook a pike exactly as in the last, dress
it upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce with a matelote sauce over,
made as directed for salmon sauce matelote.

This fish may also be served with caper sauce, as directed for the
skate; the smaller ones are the best; the remains of a pike placed in
the oven the next day, with a cover over it and a little more sauce
added, is very nice.


250. _Baked Carp._--Procure a good-sized carp, stuff it, then put it
into a baking-dish, with two onions, one carrot, one turnip, one head of
celery, and a good bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; moisten with
two glasses of port wine, half a pint of water, salt, pepper, and oil,
and put it into a moderate oven about two hours to bake; try if done
with a knife, which is the case if the flesh leaves the bone easily,
dress upon a dish without a napkin, then have ready the following sauce:
mince a large Spanish onion with two common ones, and put them into a
stewpan with three spoonfuls of salad-oil, sauté rather a yellow color,
add two glasses of port wine and one spoonful of flour, mix all well
together, add a pint of broth (reserved from some soup) or water, with
half an ounce of glaze, or half a gill of brown gravy, or a few drops of
coloring, boil it up, drain the stock the carp was cooked in from the
vegetables, which also add to the sauce; boil well at the corner of the
stove, skim, and when rather thick add a teaspoonful of Harvey sauce,
one of essence of anchovies, twelve pickled mushrooms, and a little
cayenne pepper, pour all the liquor drained from the fish out of your
dish, sauce over, and serve.


251. _Carp, Sauce Matelote._--Put your carp in a small oval fish-kettle,
with wine and vegetables as in the last, to which add also a pint of
water and a little salt, with a few cloves and peppercorns; put the lid
upon the fish-kettle, and stand it over a moderate fire to stew about
an hour, according to the size; when done, drain well, dress upon a dish
without a napkin, and sauce over with a matelote sauce, made as directed
for salmon sauce matelote, or caper sauce, as for skate; small carp are
very good-flavored, bread-crumbed and fried.


     _Trout._--There are several kinds, none of which, it seems, were
     known to the Romans. This is the salmon of fresh water, and bears a
     very close resemblance to it in flavor. They grow to a very large
     size; I partook of part of one weighing twenty-six pounds, which
     was caught in the Lake of Killarney, in July, 1848. They have
     different names in various parts of Great Britain, but there is the
     common trout, the white trout, and the sea trout; the white trout
     never grows very large, but the sea trout does, and is of a very
     fine flavor.

     _River Trout_, when fresh, have the most beautiful skin imaginable,
     the golden and sometimes silvery tint of which makes me term it the
     sister fish of the red (sea) mullet; should the gills be pink
     instead of red, and the skin dry (which is frequently the case on
     the second day), they may still be eatable, but their succulence
     goes with their beauty. Clean them as directed for salmon.

252. _Trout à la Twickenham._--When you have cleaned your trout, put
them into a kettle of boiling water, to which you have added a good
handful of salt, and a wineglassful of vinegar; boil gently about twenty
minutes, or according to their size, dress upon a napkin, and serve
melted butter, into which you have put a tablespoonful of chopped
gherkins, two sprigs of chopped parsley, salt and pepper, in a boat.

The remains of trout, salmon, or mackerel are excellent pickled:--put
three onions in slices in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, one
turnip, a bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, pass them five
minutes over the fire, add a pint of water and a pint of vinegar, two
teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, boil until the onions are
tender, then strain it through a sieve over the fish; it will keep some
time if required, and then do to pickle more fish by boiling over again.


253. _Trout à la Burton._--Boil the trout as in the last; then put half
a pint of melted butter in a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of cream,
place it upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling add a liaison
of one yolk of egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream (dress the fish
upon a dish without a napkin), put two ounces of fresh butter, a pinch
of salt, and the juice of a lemon into the sauce; shake round over the
fire, but do not let it boil; sauce over the fish, sprinkle some chopped
parsley, and serve.


     _Perch_ were known to the Romans, and those they received from
     Britain were considered the best. They do not grow to a very large
     size, four pounds being considered a large one. When fresh, are
     reddish at the eyes and gills. These fish, having a great objection
     to part with their scales, must be scraped almost alive, forming
     the fish into the shape of the letter S, and scraping with an
     oyster-knife; open the belly, take out the interior, pull away the
     gills, and wash well. When large, they are frequently boiled with
     the scales on, and they are taken off afterwards, which is much
     easier.


254. _Perch sautéd in Butter._--Clean the fish as explained above, dry
well, make an incision upon each side with a knife, put a quarter of a
pound of butter in a sauté-pan over a slow fire, lay in the fish, season
with salt, and sauté gently, turning them over when half done; when
done, dress upon a napkin, and serve melted butter in a boat, or shrimp
sauce. Small ones should be dressed thus.


255. _Perch, Hampton Court fashion._--Cook the fish as above, and have
ready the following sauce: put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a
stewpan, with a little salt and the juice of a lemon; when upon the
point of boiling, stir in the yolk of an egg mixed with a tablespoonful
of cream; do not let it boil; blanch about twenty small sprigs of
parsley in boiling water ten minutes, and some small pieces of rind of
lemon for one minute, drain, and put them in the sauce, which pour over
the fish, and serve.

Perch may also be served plain boiled or stewed as directed for tench,
with sauce served separate.


256. _Stewed Tench._--Put two onions, a carrot, and turnip, cut in
slices, into a stewpan, or very small fish-kettle, with a good bouquet
of parsley, a few sprigs of thyme, one bay-leaf, six cloves, a blade of
mace, a little salt and pepper, and two glasses of sherry; lay your
tench over (it will require four for a dish, and they may be either
cooked whole or each one cut into two or three pieces), add a pint of
water, cover down close, and stew rather gently over a slow fire for
about half an hour; take them out, drain upon a cloth, dress upon a dish
without a napkin, and pour a sauce over made as directed for sauce
matelote, cream sauce, or Beyrout.


257. _Tench with Anchovy Butter._--Cook the tench as in the last, but
they may be plain boiled in salt and water; dress upon a dish without a
napkin, then put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, with one
of milk; place it upon the fire, and, when upon the point of boiling,
add an ounce of anchovy butter; shake it round over the fire until the
butter is melted, when sauce over and serve.


     The _Eel_ is greatly esteemed in all countries, but it differs in
     taste according to the river from whence it is taken; although we
     have some very fine eels in the river Thames, yet our principal
     supply is received from Holland, and the fish which come from
     thence are much improved in flavor by the voyage, and even increase
     in size. They arrive in the river Thames in vessels called eel
     scootes (schuyts), of which four have been allowed, for centuries,
     to moor opposite the Custom House, and the others are obliged to
     remain in Erith Hole until there is room for them, which greatly
     improves the fish: the value of those imported into London last
     year amounted to 132,600_l._ Nothing is more difficult to kill than
     eels; and it is only by knocking their heads upon a block or hard
     substance, and stunning them, that they suffer least. Take the head
     in your hand with a cloth, and just cut through the skin round the
     neck, which turn down about an inch; then pull the head with one
     hand, and the skin with the other, it will come off with facility;
     open the belly, take out the interior without breaking the gall,
     and cut off the bristles which run up the back. They are in season
     all the year round.


258. _Eels, fried._--Cut your eels into pieces three inches long, dip
the pieces into flour, egg over with a paste brush, and throw them into
some bread-crumbs; fry in hot lard as directed for fried soles.


259. _Stewed Eels, Sauce Matelote._--Procure as large eels as possible,
which cut into pieces three inches long, and put them into a stewpan,
with an onion, a bouquet of two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme and
parsley, six cloves, a blade of mace, a glass of sherry, and two of
water; place the stewpan over a moderate fire, and let simmer about
twenty minutes, or according to the size of the eels; when done, drain
upon a cloth, dress them in pyramid upon a dish without a napkin, with a
matelote sauce over, made as directed for salmon sauce matelote, but
using the stock your eels have been cooked in to make the sauce, having
previously well boiled it to extract all the fat.


260. _Eels à la Tartare._--Fry as directed above, and serve on some
Tartare sauce; or partly stew first, and, when cold, egg, bread-crumb,
and broil gently.


261. _Spitchcocked Eels_, in some parts of England, are cooked with the
skins on. They should be properly cleaned, and split down the back, and
bone taken out, and cut into pieces of about four inches long; egg the
inside and throw over some bread-crumbs, in which have been mixed some
chopped parsley, a little dried thyme, and some cayenne; place them in a
Dutch oven before the fire, and whilst cooking, baste them with butter
in which some essence of anchovies has been mixed. The time they take
cooking depends on the size, but may be known by the skin turning up.


262. _Conger Eel_ is little appreciated in this country, although
amongst the working class of our neighbors, more particularly the
French, it is an article of great consumption. If alive, its head should
be cut off, and it should bleed as much as possible; but if dead, the
pieces should be put into lukewarm water to disgorge previous to being
cooked. The young fry are exceedingly good, and may be dressed like
fresh-water eels. The large ones may be made into soup; and can also be
cooked like sturgeon.


263. _French Angler's way of Stewing Fish._--Take about four pounds or
less of all kinds of fish, that is, carp, pike, trout, tench, eels, &c.,
or any one of them, cut them into nice middle-sized pieces, no matter
the size of the fish--let the pieces be of equal size; put them in a
black pot or stewpan, season over with nearly a tablespoonful of salt,
half one of pepper, half one of sugar, four good-sized onions, sliced
thin, add a half bottle of common French wine, or four glasses of port
or sherry, half a pint of water, set it on the fire to stew, gently
tossing it now and then; when tender, which you may easily ascertain by
feeling with your finger the different pieces, mix a spoonful of flour
with two ounces of butter, which put bit by bit in the pan, move it
round by shaking the pan, not with any spoon; boil a few minutes longer,
and serve, dishing the fish in pyramid, sauce over; if the sauce is too
thin, reduce it till it adheres to the back of the spoon; taste, if it
is highly seasoned, a few sprigs of thyme or bay-leaf may be added. Some
of the fish may be done sooner than the others; if so, take them out
first, and keep warm until all are done. The motive of mixing fish is,
that it is supposed the flavor of all together is finer than one alone.
Conger eel is also done in this way.




FISH SAUCES.


     In all ages and countries at all removed from barbarism, where fish
     has formed an article of diet, sauces of various kinds have been an
     accompaniment. With the Romans, in the time of Lucullus, great care
     was observed in their preparation; amongst others which they used,
     and the most celebrated, was the Garum and the Muria.

     The _Garum_ was the sauce the most esteemed and the most expensive;
     its composition is unknown. This is a subject well worth the
     attention of the epicures of the present day; they should subscribe
     and offer a premium for that which, in their opinion, may resemble
     it: it is a subject well worthy the attention of the Professors of
     our Universities. Perhaps some leaf yet undiscovered, that may have
     escaped the conflagration of Alexandria, might throw some light
     upon so interesting a subject. It appears, that mushrooms entered
     greatly into its composition; and that parts of mackerel, or of
     that species, formed another. The question is, at what time of the
     year were mushrooms in season there; and if at that period
     mackerel, or what species of mackerel have soft roes, as I think it
     probable that they entered into its composition, as an island near
     Carthaginia, where they were caught, was called Scombraria, and
     that which was prepared by a company in that town, and which was
     considered the best, was called Garum Sociorum.

     The _Muria_ was the liquid in which the tunny was pickled, and no
     doubt very similar to our essence of anchovies. Those most
     generally in use at the present day are the following, in addition
     to which there are various kinds made and sold in bottles, some of
     which are much cheaper to buy than to make.


264. _Melted Butter._--Put into a stewpan two ounces of butter, not too
hard, also a good tablespoonful of flour, mix both well with a wooden
spoon, without putting it on the fire; when forming a smooth paste, add
to it a little better than half a pint of water; season with a
teaspoonful of salt, not too full, the sixth part that of pepper; set it
on the fire, stir round continually until on the point of boiling; take
it off, add a teaspoonful of brown vinegar, then add one ounce more of
fresh butter, which stir in your sauce till melted, then use where
required; a little nutmeg grated may be introduced; it ought, when done,
to adhere lightly to the back of the spoon, but transparent, not pasty;
it may also, if required, be passed through a tammy or sieve. If wanted
plainer, the last butter may be omitted.


265. _Anchovy Sauce._--Make the same quantity of melted butter as in the
last, but omit the salt, and add three good tablespoonfuls of essence of
anchovies.


266. _Fennel Sauce._--This is a sauce principally used for boiled
mackerel. Make the same quantity of melted butter as in the last, to
which add a good tablespoonful of chopped fennel; it is usually served
in a boat.


267. _Egg Sauce_ is generally served with salt-fish or haddock. Boil six
eggs ten minutes, let them get cold, then cut them in pieces about the
size of dice, put them into a stewpan, with three parts of a pint of
melted butter, add an ounce more fresh butter, with a little pepper and
salt; keep the stewpan moving round over the fire until the whole is
very hot, and serve in a boat.


268. _Shrimp Sauce._--Make the same quantity of melted butter as before,
to which add three tablespoonfuls of essence of shrimps, but omitting
the salt; add half a pint of picked shrimps, and serve in a boat. If no
essence of shrimps, some anchovy sauce may be served with shrimps in it
as a substitute.


269. _Shrimp Sauce_ is also very good as follows: Pound half a pint of
shrimps, skins and all, in a mortar, and boil them ten minutes in half a
pint of water; pass the liquor through a hair sieve into a stewpan, and
add a piece of butter the size of two walnuts, with which you have mixed
a good teaspoonful of flour, stir it round over the fire until upon the
point of boiling; if too thick, add a little more water; season with a
little cayenne, and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies; serve very
hot; a few picked shrimps might also be served in it.


270. _Caper Sauce._--Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a
stewpan, place it on the fire, and when on the point of boiling, add two
ounces of fresh butter and one tablespoonful of capers; shake the
stewpan round over the fire until the butter is melted, add a little
pepper and salt, and serve where directed.


271. _Lobster Sauce._--Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a
stewpan, cut up a small-sized lobster into dice, make a quarter of a
pound of lobster butter with the spawn, as directed; when the melted
butter is upon the point of boiling, add the lobster butter, stir the
sauce round over the fire until the butter is melted, season with a
little essence of anchovies, the juice of half a lemon, and a quarter of
a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper; pass it through a tammy into another
stewpan, and add the flesh of the lobster; when hot, it is ready to
serve where required. This sauce must be quite red; if no red spawn in
the lobster, use live spawn.


272. _New and Economical Lobster Sauce._--Should you require to use the
solid flesh of a lobster for salad, or any other purpose, pound the soft
part and shell together (in a mortar) very fine, which put into a
stewpan, covered with a pint of boiling water; place it over the fire to
simmer for ten minutes, then pass the liquor through a hair sieve into a
basin; put three ounces of butter into a stewpan, into which rub (cold)
a good tablespoonful of flour, add the liquor from the lobster, place it
upon the fire, stirring until upon the point of boiling, season with a
little cayenne, and add a piece of anchovy butter, the size of a walnut;
or, if any red spawn in the lobster, mix it with butter, as in the last,
and add it, with the juice of half a lemon, just before serving. An
anchovy pounded with the lobster-shells would be an improvement, and
part of the flesh of the lobster might be served in the sauce.


273. _Lobster Sauce à la Crême._--Cut a small lobster into slices the
size of half-crown pieces, which put into a stewpan; pound the soft and
white parts, with an ounce of butter, and rub it through a sieve; pour
ten spoonfuls of melted butter, and two of cream, over the slices in the
stewpan, add half a blade of mace, a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter
ditto of pepper, and a little cayenne; warm gently, and when upon the
point of boiling, add the butter and two tablespoonfuls of thick cream,
shake round over the fire until quite hot, when it is ready to serve.


274. _Lobster Sauce simplified._--Put the slices of lobster, as in the
last, into a stewpan, with ten tablespoonfuls of milk, add a little
pepper, salt, cayenne, two cloves, and half a blade of mace; set it upon
the fire, and when boiling, add a piece of butter of the size of two
walnuts, with which you have mixed a little flour; shake round over the
fire, and when getting rather thick, add two spoonfuls of cream, if
handy, and serve very hot.


275. _Beyrout Sauce._--Put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a
stewpan, with one of Chili vinegar and one of common ditto, a pint of
melted butter, four spoonfuls of brown gravy, two of mushroom catsup,
and two of Harvey sauce; place it over the fire, keeping it stirred
until boiling, then place it at the corner to simmer five minutes, skim
well, then place it again over the fire, keeping it stirred until
thickish, to adhere to the back of the spoon, when add two
tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies, and half a teaspoonful of sugar;
it is then ready to serve.

The above, although a fish sauce, may be used for meat or poultry, by
omitting the anchovy, and adding more Harvey sauce. If no brown gravy,
add water and a little coloring.


276. _Oyster Sauce._--Mix three ounces of butter in a stewpan, with two
ounces of flour, then blanch and beard three dozen oysters, put the
oysters into another stewpan, add beards and liquor to the flour and
butter, with a pint and a half of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, half a
saltspoonful of cayenne, two cloves, half a blade of mace, and six
peppercorns; place it over the fire, keep stirring, and boil it ten
minutes, then add a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies, and one of
Harvey sauce, pass it through a tammy over the oysters, make the whole
very hot without boiling, and serve. A less quantity may be made, using
less proportions.


277. _Another method._--Put a pint of white sauce into a stewpan, with
the liquor and beards of three dozen oysters (as above), six
peppercorns, two cloves, and half a blade of mace; boil it ten minutes,
then add a spoonful of essence of anchovies, a little cayenne and salt
if required; pass it through a tammy, or hair sieve, over the oysters,
as in the last.


278. _A plainer method._--Blanch three dozen of oysters, which again put
into the stewpan, with their liquor (after having detached the beards),
add six peppercorns and half a blade of mace; place them over the fire,
and when beginning to simmer, add a piece of butter the size of a
walnut, with which you have mixed sufficient flour to form a paste,
breaking it in four or five pieces; shake the stewpan round over the
fire, and when upon the point of boiling, and becoming thick, add half a
gill of milk, or more if required; season with a little cayenne, salt,
pepper, and a few drops of essence of anchovies; serve very hot.


279. _Mussel Sauce._--Proceed exactly the same as for oyster sauce,
using only the liquor of the mussels (not the beards) instead of the
oysters, and serving the mussels in the sauce; about four dozen would be
sufficient.


280. _Cream Sauce._--Put two yolks of eggs in the bottom of a stewpan,
with the juice of a lemon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, a little
white pepper, and a quarter of a pound of hard fresh butter; place the
stewpan over a moderate fire, and commence stirring with a wooden spoon
(taking it from the fire now and then when getting too hot), until the
butter has gradually melted and thickened with the eggs (great care must
be exercised, for if it should become too hot, the eggs would curdle and
render the sauce useless); then add half a pint of melted butter; stir
altogether over the fire, without permitting it to boil, pass it through
a tammy into another stewpan; when wanted, stir it over the fire until
hot. This sauce may be served with any description of boiled fish.


281. _Matelote Sauce._--For about a pound-slice of salmon make the
following quantity of sauce: peel thirty button onions, and put half a
teaspoonful of sugar in a quart-size stewpan, place it over a sharp
fire, and when melted and getting brown, add a piece of butter (the size
of two walnuts) and the onions, toss them over now and then until rather
brown, then add a glass of sherry, let it boil, then add half a pint of
brown sauce, and a gill of broth, simmer at the corner of the fire until
the onions are quite tender, skim it well, and add a few mushrooms, if
handy, season with a little salt and sugar, and sauce over any kind of
fish where described. The addition of a teaspoonful of essence of
anchovies is an improvement. Use where directed.


282. _Matelote Sauce simplified._--Proceed as above respecting the
onions, only add a fourth more butter, and fry them a little browner;
then add a glass of sherry and two teaspoonfuls of flour, which stir
round gently with a small wooden spoon, add to it about a pint of water,
stir now and then till boiling, add three saltspoonfuls of salt, two of
sugar, one of pepper, and a bouquet garni, simmer and skim, add a few
drops of coloring to give it a nice brown color; when ready to serve,
add a good tablespoonful of anchovy essence; it ought to adhere lightly
to the back of the spoon, but not be too thick; sauce over or under, as
directed; small pieces of glaze, if handy, put into it is an
improvement, also using broth instead of water; oysters and mushrooms
may be introduced, also a little cayenne pepper. This sauce must be very
savory.


283. _Lobster Butter._--Procure half a lobster, quite full of spawn,
which take out and pound well in a mortar; then add six ounces of fresh
butter, mix well together, then rub it through a hair sieve, and put it
in a cold place until wanted. The flesh can be used for any other dish.


284. _Anchovy Butter._--Take the bones from six anchovies, wash the
fillets, and dry them upon a cloth, pound them well in a mortar, add six
ounces of fresh butter, mix well together, and proceed as in the last.


285. _Maître d'Hôtel Butter._--Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter
upon a plate, with one good tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the juice
of two lemons, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter that quantity
of white pepper; mix all well together, and put in a cool place till
required.


286. _Ravigote Butter._--Proceed as in the last, but instead of parsley,
use one spoonful of chopped tarragon, and one of chervil, and add half a
spoonful of Chili vinegar.




REMOVES.


     These are dishes which remove the fish and soup, served upon large
     dishes, and placed at the top and bottom of the table; great care
     should be evinced in cooking them, as they are the "pièce de
     résistance" of the dinner. I must also observe that a few of the
     receipts appear a little complicated, but which will not prove to
     be the case if tried once or twice. In the Entrées will be found
     how the remains of them may be dressed.

     Since the science of analytical chemistry has become so perfect,
     and has shown us the elements of which every substance and liquid
     is composed, and that, in order to continue them in a state of
     action, and prevent decomposition, it is necessary to repair the
     loss which they are every moment undergoing, even from man, through
     every living thing, down to earth and water. But as I am not going
     to write you a lecture on chemistry, which will be so much more
     easy to read in Liebig, in order for you to choose your meat and
     viands with economy in regard to actual nourishment, it is
     necessary I should tell you, that, from infancy to old age, the
     human race must be continually imbibing elements of formation or
     reparation, even from the lime in the mother's milk, which forms
     the bones, to the osmazome extracted from animal matters, which
     creates a more lively circulation of the blood when it becomes
     sluggish and dull in old age. Each period, occupation, and station
     in life requires different substances of reparation, with which we
     ought to make ourselves intimately acquainted. Amongst the first,
     and that most generally in use with man, is the ox, the principal
     nourishment of which consists in the osmazome, which is that liquid
     part of the meat that is extracted by water at blood-heat. It is
     this which is the foundation and flavor of all soups, which gives
     the flavor to all meats, and which, on becoming candied by heat,
     forms the crust of roast meats.

     The osmazome is found principally in all adult animals having a
     dark flesh, and to a very small extent in those having a white
     flesh; or even in the white flesh of fowls, but in their back and
     legs, in which parts lies their principal flavor. The bones of the
     ox contain gelatine and phosphate of lime. The gelatine is also
     found in the muscles and other cartilaginous parts of the animal;
     it is extracted by boiling water, and coagulates at the ordinary
     temperature of the atmosphere; it is the foundation of all jellies,
     blancmanges, and other similar preparations.

     The albumen is also found in the flesh, and congeals as soon as the
     heat rises beyond that of the blood; it is this which is the scum
     on the pot when the meat is boiling.

     BEEF.--All oxen should fast from twenty-four to forty-eight hours
     before being killed; when killed and skinned, they are opened and
     the inside cleaned; they are then hung up, and ought to be exposed
     to a draught until cold, and then divided down the back into two
     parts, leaving the head whole; these sides are then divided into
     two, called the fore and hind-quarters: the fore-quarter contains
     the shin, the clod and stickings, leg of mutton piece, chuck,
     middle rib, fore rib; the hind-quarter consists of the rump,
     sirloin, thin and thick flank, the veiny-piece, aitch-bone, buttock
     or round, and leg and foot; the head contains the tongue, palate,
     and brains; the entrails consist of the sweetbread, kidneys,
     skirts, and the double roll and reed tripe. When the meat is cut
     up, the following kernels are taken out: those in the neck, where
     the shoulder clod is removed; two from the round, the pope's eye,
     and one from the flap; one in the thick flap in the middle of the
     flank, and another between the rump and aitch-bone: these must be
     removed to preserve the beef, particularly in hot weather. The
     flavor and quality of the meat depend on the country from whence it
     comes, and the nature of its food.[4] As a general rule, the flesh
     ought to be of a dark red color, smooth, open-grained, with fat
     rather white than yellow running in thin streaks through the flesh.
     Ox-beef is the largest and richest, but heifer is better, if
     well-fed. It should be hung for two days previous to using, in a
     cool place, free from draught; it will keep good from three to six
     days, according to the weather.


287. _Sirloin of Beef_ should never be less than three of the short
ribs, and will weigh more or less according to the size of the ox from
which they are taken; that from a small, well-fed heifer I consider the
best, and will weigh about twelve pounds, and take about two hours to
roast, depending much on the fire. Having spitted or hung the joint,
cover it with buttered paper, and place it about eighteen inches from
the fire; about one hour after it has been down, remove the paper and
place the joint nearer the fire, and put half a pint of water, with a
little salt, in the dripping-pan; about a quarter of an hour before
removing from the fire, dredge it with flour and salt from the
dredging-box; when taken from the fire, empty the contents of the
dripping-pan into a basin, from which remove the fat; pour the gravy in
the dish, and then place the joint on it; serve some scraped
horse-radish separate. A Yorkshire pudding is very excellent when cooked
under this joint.


288. _Ribs of Beef._--This piece should consist of at least three ribs;
the bones are generally sawn through about three inches from the top;
these should be removed, leaving the flap, which fold under and fix with
wooden skewers. This, in roasting, should be prepared and dredged as the
sirloin. A drop of coloring gives the gravy an inviting appearance.


289. _Ribs of Beef braised._--Take four ribs, not too fat nor too thick,
remove the chine-bone neatly, and four inches of the tips of the
rib-bones, run with a larding-needle several pieces of fat bacon through
the thick part, trim over the flap and tie it well round, put it into
the braising-pan; put a quarter of a pound of butter, one teaspoonful of
pepper, and six teaspoonfuls of salt into the pan, cover it over, and
place it on a slow fire for thirty minutes, stirring it now and then,
then add two quarts of water; at the expiration of one hour and a half,
add eighty small button onions and sixty small young carrots, or pieces
of large ones cut in the shape, which place around the meat; a bouquet
of ten sprigs of parsley, three bay-leaves, and four sprigs of thyme
tied together; half an hour after, add sixty round pieces of turnip;
then place some live coals on the lid, and let it stew gently for one
hour and a half longer, being altogether about four hours. Take out the
meat, remove the string, and trim it. Skim off the fat from the liquor
in the pan, remove the bouquet, &c., add a few pieces of butter in which
have been mixed a tablespoonful of flour and a teaspoonful of sugar, two
of browning, stir gently with a wooden spoon, and, when just on the
boil, dress round the meat, and serve. In case it has reduced too much,
add water.

     The foregoing receipt may appear rather complicated, and may
     perhaps frighten you, and prevent you trying it; but I assure you,
     if you once try it, you will find it so good as to repeat it,
     particularly as many other receipts will be referred to this one.
     The vegetables and meat cold, are excellent.


     290. _Stewed Rump of Beef._--This is a very excellent and useful
     joint to be continually kept in a country-house, where you may be
     some distance from a butcher's, as, when hung up in a cool larder,
     it keeps good for a considerable time, and you never feel at a loss
     should some friends call unawares: after a third of it has been
     removed for steaks, pies, or puddings, the remainder makes an
     excellent joint, roasted or braised like the ribs, or stewed as
     follows:

Cut it away from the bone, cut about twenty long pieces of fat bacon,
which run through the flesh in a slanting direction; then chop up the
bone, place it at the bottom of a large stewpan, with six cloves, three
onions, one carrot, a turnip, and a head of celery; then lay in the rump
(previously tying it up with string), which just cover with water, add a
tablespoonful of salt and two burnt onions (if handy), place upon the
fire, and, when boiling, stand it at the corner; let it simmer nearly
four hours, keeping it skimmed; when done, pass part of the stock it was
cooked in (keeping the beef hot in the remainder) through a hair sieve
into a basin; in another stewpan have ready a quarter of a pound of
butter, melt it over the fire, add six ounces of flour, mix well
together, stirring over the fire until becoming a little brownish; take
off, and when nearly cold add two quarts of the stock, stir it over the
fire until it boils; then have four carrots, four turnips (cut into
small pieces with cutters), and forty button onions peeled, put them
into the sauce, when again boiling draw it to the corner, where let
simmer until tender, keeping it skimmed; add a little powdered sugar
and a bunch of parsley: if it should become too thick, add a little more
of the stock; dress the beef upon a dish, sauce round and serve. Brown
sauce may be used, and the gravy will make excellent soup.


291. _Salt Round of Beef._--This magnificent joint is, in general, too
large for small families, but occasionally it may be used; the following
is, therefore, the best method of cooking it: having folded the fat
round it, and fastened it with skewers, tie round it, not too tight,
some wide tape and a thin cloth, place it in a large stock-pot with
plenty of cold water, set it upon a good fire, and when beginning to
boil, draw it to the corner, where let it simmer until done; five hours
will be enough for a large one of thirty to thirty-five pounds; when
done, remove the cloth and tape, and dish it up, previously cutting a
slice two inches thick from the top, pouring a pint of the hot liquor
over it when serving. To serve it cold, M. Soyer, in his "Regenerator,"
thus describes it:

     "After receiving the above useful lesson, and being desirous of
     improving my profession in all its branches, I remembered that,
     amongst the number of joints boiled to serve cold for large civic,
     agricultural, or benevolent anniversary dinners, the round of beef
     was the most prominent, and having seen it standing in dishes to
     get cold, with the dish filled with the gravy that runs from it,
     particularly if a little over-done, caused me to hit upon the
     following expedient to prevent the meat losing so much of its
     succulence.

"Fill two large tubs with cold water, into which throw a few pounds of
rough ice, and when the round is done, throw it, cloth and all, into one
of the tubs of ice-water; let remain one minute, when take out and put
it into the other tub; fill the first tub again with water, and continue
the above process for about twenty minutes; then set it upon a dish,
leaving the cloth on until the next day, or until quite cold; when
opened, the fat will be as white as possible, besides having saved the
whole of the gravy. If no ice, spring water will answer the same
purpose, but will require to be more frequently changed; the same mode
would be equally successful with the aitch-bone."


292. _Half-Round of Beef (Silver-side)_ should be put into cold water,
and let it come to a boil; simmer for two hours and a half, and serve
the same as a round.


293. _Aitch-bone of Beef_ (or, as I think it ought to be called,
_Edge-bone_).--This is a very nice joint for a small family, but not so
economical as is generally supposed; it should be pickled carefully, and
cooked in the same way as the round; one weighing ten pounds will take
two hours and a half; it should be trimmed on the top, and served with
some of the liquor under it. It is very good when fresh and braised like
the ribs.


294. _Salt Brisket of Beef._--This is by no means an economical joint,
as it loses considerably in cooking; it requires a long time to boil;
should it be required as a large cold joint, the following is the best
plan: procure a nice brisket with as little fat as possible, detach the
whole of the bones from it, make a pickle (see Receipt), place it in it,
previously rubbing it well with two cloves of garlic, leave it in the
pickle from seven to nine days, rubbing and turning it every day; when
ready to cook, cut it into two parts (one about two inches longer than
the other), tie them together, and afterwards in a clean cloth, simmer
it for about six or seven hours in a large stock-pot full of water; when
done, take it out and let it drain, have ready a large dish-cover, place
it upon a trivet, remove the cloth and string from the meat, and place
it in the cover; have ready a piece of board to fit inside the cover,
place it on the meat with a half-hundred weight on the top, and let it
remain in a cold place until the next day, when take it out, trim it,
garnish it nicely, and serve. This will keep good a considerable time,
and is excellent for breakfast or luncheon; besides, it always keeps a
"pièce de résistance" in the larder in case of accidents. It is also,
when fresh, very excellent stewed like the rump of beef, or plain
salted.


295. _Hamburgh Beef._--The ribs are the best; they should be put to soak
in soft water for twelve hours, and then put into cold water and boiled
gradually; a piece of three ribs will take three hours; if intended to
be served hot, the outside should be cut off, and the joint nicely
trimmed and served up with the following garniture round it: take four
handfuls of brown kale, well washed, put a saucepan on the fire, with a
gallon of water, and let it well boil; then add two tablespoonfuls of
salt and half a saltspoonful of carbonate of soda, put the kale in, let
it boil for ten minutes, drain it and squeeze all the water from it, put
it on a chopping-board and chop it fine, then put it into a stewpan,
with two ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful
of salt, a little nutmeg, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and twenty
roasted chestnuts cut in half, put it on the fire and keep stirring it
for five minutes: if too dry, add a little milk or gravy, and place it
on the side of the fire until wanted.


296. _To boil a pickled Ox Tongue._--Put the tongue into a large stewpan
containing two gallons of cold water, which set upon the fire until
boiling, when draw it to the corner to simmer for three hours, if a
tongue weighing about six pounds; but the better way to ascertain when
done, is to try it with a trussing-needle, or the prongs of a fork, in
the thickest part; if tender it is done, but if hard it must boil rather
longer. A dried tongue should be soaked twenty-four hours previously to
boiling; when done, skin it and trim the root, &c., and use where
directed.


297. _To cook a fresh Ox Tongue._--Put a tongue in lukewarm water for
twelve hours to disgorge, then trim the root and scrape the tongue quite
clean; have ready twenty pieces of fat bacon two inches long and half an
inch square, which introduce with a larding pin into the most fleshy
part in a slanting direction; then rub the tongue all over with salt,
and run a long iron skewer through it, which tie upon, surround the
tongue with vegetables, the same as directed for turkeys roasted and
braised, and roast for two hours before a good fire; twenty minutes
before it is done take away the paper and vegetables, to give a nice
brown color; when done trim a little, to keep it steady in the dish, and
garnish with any kind of stewed vegetables, or cut it in halves
lengthwise to form a heart, and sauce over with piquante, tomatos, or
any other sharp sauces found in their series. If no convenience for
roasting, put into a stewpan a piece of leg of beef (cut small) weighing
two pounds, with two onions, one carrot, two blades of mace, a little
thyme and bay-leaf, and a quarter of a pound of butter, sauté the whole
twenty minutes, keeping it stirred over a moderate fire, then put in the
tongue (previously prepared) and two ounces of salt, cover with water,
and let boil gently four hours, skim and serve. The stock would be
excellent for soup or brown sauce of any kind. The remains could be
served in either of the methods directed for the remainder of pickled
tongue.


298. _Rump Steak broiled._--Procure a steak cut nice and even, of about
half an inch in thickness (if well cut it will not require beating),
which lay upon a gridiron over a sharp fire; have a good teaspoonful of
salt, and half that quantity of pepper mixed together upon a plate, half
of which sprinkle upon the side of the steak uppermost, after it has
been upon the fire a couple of minutes, when turn, and sprinkle the
remainder of the seasoning upon the other side; it will take about ten
minutes to cook it to perfection, turning it occasionally, and serve
upon a very hot dish, with a little scraped horseradish round. If
properly done, it ought to be full of gravy, but a great deal depends
upon the fire, which, if bad, causes the gravy to ooze from the meat and
lie upon the top, which you lose in turning the steak over. A rump steak
may also be served broiled as above, with a little maître d'hôtel, or
anchovy butter, rubbed, over as soon as done, and potatoes cut the size
of half crown or shilling pieces, and fried crisp in hot fat; dress
round. Or a steak may be served, with a few water-cresses, well washed,
and dried upon a plate sprinkled with a little pepper, salt, and
vinegar, and garnished round; a little oil might also be added.


     Veal of about two to three months old is the best; the flesh ought
     to be white, approaching to pink, and the fat firm; it is cut up
     the same as mutton, except that, in the hind-quarter, the loin is
     cut straight, leaving the aitch-bone on it, which may be either
     dressed on the loin or separate. The fore-quarter consists of the
     shoulder, neck, and breast. The hind-quarter, the knuckle, leg,
     fillet, and the loin. The head and pluck consists of the heart,
     liver, nut, skirts, melt, and the heart, throat, and sweetbread.

     The bull-calf is the best, the flesh is firmer grained or redder,
     and the fat more curdled than the cow-calf, which latter is in
     general preferred, being more delicate and better adapted for made
     dishes, as having the udder. Nothing can be worse than veal if not
     fresh; it should never hang more than two days in summer and four
     in winter. To be in full perfection, the kidneys ought to be
     covered with fat, and the veins in the shoulder bright red or blue.
     It is best from May to September, although it may be had good all
     the year. The head, when fresh, should have the eyes plump and
     lively; if stale, they are sunk and wrinkled.


299. _Fillet of Veal._--Choose it of the best quality. Procure a leg,
saw off the knuckle, take out the bone in the centre of the fillet, and
fill up the cavity with some stuffing made as directed (see Receipt),
fold the udder and flap round, which fix with three skewers; place half
a sheet of buttered foolscap paper top and bottom, which tie over and
over with plenty of string, run a spit through, fixing the fillet with a
holdfast; set down to roast, placing it rather close to the fire ten
minutes, rub well over with butter, then place it at least two feet and
a half from the fire, to roast very slowly, giving it a fine gold color;
a fillet weighing sixteen pounds would require three hours roasting,
when done take it up, detach all the string and paper, trim the top and
set it upon your dish; have a pint of melted butter in a stewpan upon
the fire, to which, when boiling, add four spoonfuls of Harvey sauce,
and two of mushroom catsup, mix well, and pour round the fillet; have
also boiled nicely an ox-tongue, which skin and trim, dress upon a dish
surrounded with greens or cabbage nicely boiled, and serve as an
accompaniment to the fillet.


300. _Loin of Veal._--One with plenty of fat and a good kidney, from
which the chump and the rib-bone at the other end has been removed;
fasten the flap over the kidney with a skewer, run a spit through
lengthwise, commencing at the thick end, and fixing it with a holdfast,
cover it with buttered paper; one of fourteen pounds will take about two
hours and a half to roast. Serve with melted butter poured over.


301. _Chump of Veal_ can be either roasted or boiled; one about four
pounds will take one hour to roast, and one hour and a quarter to boil;
roasted, serve like the loin: boiled, serve with either sauces, Nos.
122, 154, 160.


302. _Breast of Veal plain roasted._--Paper the joint, and roast for
about one hour, and serve with gravy and melted butter; it may be
roasted with the sweetbread skewered to it. By taking the tendons off,
stew them for entrées.


303. _Shoulder of Veal._--One weighing fourteen pounds will take about
two hours and a half to three hours to roast or braise; if roasted, the
same sauce as for the loin (No. 300), and braise (No. 310).


304. _Neck of Veal._--Procure about eight pounds of a nice white neck of
veal, containing six or seven chops; saw off under part of the
chine-bone, so as to give it a nice square appearance, lard it thus:
take about twelve pieces of fat bacon, two inches long and a quarter of
an inch square, put the larding-needle through the flesh of the veal
about one inch and a half, then put one third of the length of the piece
of bacon in it, pull the needle out, and it will leave the bacon in the
meat, showing a quarter of an inch of the bacon outside. Then braise as
ribs of beef. Two hours will suffice.


305. _Neck of Veal with Peas._--Proceed as in the former receipt, with
the exception of leaving out the vegetables, and adding, half an hour
previous to the meat being done, one quart of peas, twelve button
onions, and a little more sugar; remove the fat, and serve as before.


306. _Neck of Veal with Haricots._--Proceed as before, substituting the
haricots for the peas, which must have been boiled in plenty of water
for three or four hours previously. (See Receipt for Haricots.)


307. _Neck of Veal with New Potatoes._--As before, using new potatoes in
place of the peas. Any other vegetable, as French beans, broad beans,
&c. may be served with it in the same way.


308. _Necks of Veal_ can be larded or plain roasted, or braised in
plain gravy as before, and served with either sauces, Nos. 150, 135,
137, 165.


309. _Knuckle of Veal_ is a very favorite dish of mine: I procure two of
them, which I saw into three pieces each, and put into a stewpan, with a
piece of streaked bacon two pounds in weight, four onions, a carrot, two
turnips, and six peppercorns, place over the fire, and when boiling add
a little salt, skim well, and place at the corner to simmer gently for
two hours, take up, dress them in your dish surrounded with the
vegetables and bacon, and serve with parsley and butter over; very good
soup may be made from the stock it was boiled in if required, or if not,
into glaze, which put by until wanted.


310. _Loin of Veal braised._--This joint generally weighs from twelve to
fourteen pounds when off a good calf; have the rib-bones carefully
divided with a saw so as not to hurt the fillet, prepare the
braising-pan, and proceed as in receipt (No. 289); with the addition of
one pint more water, but take care not to cover the meat, which might
happen if your stewpan was small, which otherwise be boiling instead of
braising; it will take about three hours: be careful about the fat, as
this joint produces a great deal; taste the sauce before serving, in
case more seasoning is required, which might be the case, depending on
the nature of the veal. A good cook should taste all sauces before
serving.


311. _Breast of Veal stuffed and stewed._--Take about eight pounds of
the breast of veal, put your knife about half an inch under the skin,
and open it about three parts of its width all the way down, then
prepare some veal stuffing, and lay it in the opening you have made
about one inch in thickness, sew it up, and proceed as receipt for
shoulder.

Should half the size of either the above dishes be required, use but
half the vegetables in proportion, and stew half an hour less.

The _Chump_, _Small Shoulder_, or pieces of the fillet may be dressed in
the same way, but must be larded, like the neck.

All the above joints may be stewed in the same way, with less
vegetables, and served with sauces (Nos. 131, 135); the gravy in which
they are stewed will always be useful in the kitchen, or may be reduced
and served with the joint.


     312. _Shoulder of Veal stuffed and stewed._--This is a very awkward
     joint to carve to advantage, and equally so to cook; by the
     following plan, it goes further than any other way.

Take the joint and lay it with the skin-side downwards, with a sharp
thin knife carefully detach the meat from the blade-bone, then hold the
shoulder edgewise and detach the meat from the other side of the bone,
being careful not to make a hole in the skin; then cut the bone from the
knuckle and take it out; you may at first be rather awkward about it,
but after once or twice trying, it will become easy; you may also take
out the other bone, but I prefer it in, as it keeps the shape better:
then lard the lean part like the neck in (No. 304); mix some salt and a
little mixed spice together, with which rub the meat from whence the
bone has been cut, stuff with veal stuffing, or sausage-meat, or suet
pudding; braise, garnish, and serve as (No. 289). This being the
toughest part of the veal, it should be tried before taking up, to see
if it is properly done, by thrusting a larding-needle in it; if it goes
in easily it is done. This joint is excellent cold, and should be carved
in thin slices crosswise.


313. _Calf's Head._--Choose one thick and fat, but not too large; soak
for ten minutes in lukewarm water, then well powder with rosin, have
plenty of scalding water ready, dip in the head, holding it by the ear,
scrape the hair off with the back of a knife, which will come off easily
if properly scraped, without scratching the cheek; when perfectly clean,
take the eyes out, saw it in two lengthwise through the skull, without
spoiling the brain, which take carefully out, and put to disgorge for a
few hours in lukewarm water; pull the tongue out, break the jawbone, and
remove the part which contains the teeth, put the head into plenty of
water to disgorge for one hour; make the following stock, and boil for
about two hours and a half, and it will be ready to serve.

The stock is made by putting into a braising-pan two carrots, three
onions, a quarter of a pound of butter, six cloves, a bouquet of
parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, set it on the fire for about twenty
minutes, keep stirring it round, then add a pint of water, and when warm
mix a quarter of a pound of flour, add a gallon of water, one lemon in
slices, and a quarter of a pound of salt, then lay the head in; take
care it is well covered, or the part exposed will turn dark: simmer
gently till tender.




LETTER No. XII


     MY DEAR ELOISE,--Do not make any mistakes in the way you describe
     the above receipts, which might be made very ridiculous if wrongly
     explained. For example: I once had an old French Cookery Book in my
     hand, which had the 15th edition stamped on its old brown leather
     cheek, in which a receipt of "Tête de Veau à la poulette," that is,
     a calf's head, with white sauce, in which small onions and
     mushrooms are introduced, reads as follows--but, before describing
     it, allow me five minutes to indulge in a hearty laugh at the
     absurd manner in which it is explained: it reads thus: "First
     choose your head as thick and fat as you can, then plunge it in two
     gallons of water, which must be nearly boiling in a pan on the
     fire; let your head remain about ten minutes, then take it out by
     the ears, and, after remaining a short time, scrape your hair off
     with the back of a knife without injuring your cheek, and pull your
     eyes out; break your jawbone and saw your head in two without
     smashing your brains, which take out carefully; set it in cold
     water, to get clean and white; then pull out your tongue, scrape
     and dry it, having previously boiled it with your head, which,
     after two hours' ebullition, will feel as soft as possible, when
     see that your head is in the centre of the dish; your tongue
     divided in two and placed on each side of it: sharp sauce,
     according to No.-- is allowed to be served with either head or
     tongue." I assure you, dear, although I do not profess to be a
     first-rate scholar in that fashionable language--French, that I
     believe this to be as near as possible the true translation of the
     original. Then follows calves' feet, which is nearly as absurd as
     the former: "Pied de Veau an naturel," Calves Feet, the natural
     way.--"Choose your fine feet in the rough state, and, as with your
     head, place a pan of water on the fire; when hot, but not too much
     so, put your feet in the water for about ten minutes, try if you
     can easily clean them as your head with a knife, if not, add a
     spoonful of salt in the water, and let them remain a few minutes
     longer; then scrape like your head; when well cleaned wipe them
     dry, and they are ready for dressing, which may be done in almost
     twenty different ways. (See the series 'How to cook Pigs' Feet.')
     When your feet are tender, set them on a dish, take out the big
     bone, surround them with sausage-meat; wrap them up in caul, and
     form a heart with them; then place your feet on a gridiron, let
     them gently broil, and, when done, eat them for breakfast or
     luncheon." (After which a gentle walk might give you an appetite
     for dinner.)


_Calf's Head_ (No. 313) may be dressed thus:--Half of the head will make
a good dish for a remove; lay it in the dish very hot, having previously
drained it well; have ready about a pint of Hollandaise or cream sauce,
No. 280, pour it over and serve.

It may be surrounded with a dozen new potatoes, if in season, or some
quenelles, or quarters of hard-boiled eggs; a little chopped parsley
thrown on the head when the sauce is over it, makes it look very
inviting. It can also be served "à la poulette," by putting a pint of
white sauce in a stewpan; you have peeled and cooked about fifty button
onions in white broth, to which you have added a little sugar and
butter, and a few mushrooms; add the broth, onions, and sauce together,
and when on the point of boiling, add a liaison of two yolks of eggs and
the juice of a lemon; stir it well round; it ought to be the thickness
of cream sauce; pour over the head and serve.

It can also be egged and bread-crumbed, and placed in the cream for
twenty minutes to get a nice brown color, and may be served with sauces,
Nos. 150, 165.


     MUTTON.--The sheep, when killed, is generally divided into two, by
     cutting across about two ribs below the shoulder; these are called
     the fore and hind-quarters: the former contains the head, neck,
     breast, and shoulder; the latter, the leg and loin; or the two
     loins together, the saddle or chine; or the leg and four ribs of
     the loin, the haunch. The entrails are called the pluck, which are
     the liver, lights, heart, sweetbread, and melt. When cut up, the
     kernel at the tail should be removed, and that in the fat in the
     thick part of the leg, and the pipe that runs along the bone of the
     chine. The flavor depends on the breed and pasture; that is best
     which has a dark-colored flesh, of a fine grain, well-mixed with
     fat, which must be firm and white. Wether mutton is the best; the
     meat of ewe mutton is of a paler color, and the fat yellow and
     spongy. To keep a loin, saddle, or haunch, the kidney-fat should be
     removed, and the place rubbed with a little salt. Mutton should
     never be cooked unless it has hung forty-eight hours after it is
     killed; and it can be kept for twenty-one days, and sometimes
     longer in a severe winter.


314. _Haunch of Mutton._--Saw or break three inches from the
knuckle-bone, remove all skin from the loin, put it on a spit,
commencing at the knuckle, and bringing it out at the flap, avoiding the
fillet of the loin; then cover it with three sheets of buttered paper,
place it about eighteen inches from the fire, if a large one it will
take two hours and a half; half an hour before being done, remove the
paper, baste it with a little butter, and dredge it slightly; when done,
dish it up with a frill round the knuckle, and pour a pint of hot gravy
over. In summer time, French beans should be served with it, but always
mashed potatoes.


315. _Saddle of Mutton._--The same rule in regard to choice appiles to
this as to the haunch. Take off the skin, run a lark-spit through the
spinal marrow-bone, which affix to a larger one with a holdfast at one
end and string at the other; then tie the skin over the back, and place
it down to roast; it will not take so long a time to roast in proportion
as another joint, one about ten pounds will take about one hour and
twenty minutes; remove the paper ten minutes before taking it from the
fire, dredge to give it a nice color, and make gravy as for beef, No.
287, or serve with gravy, No. 177.


316. _Saddle of Mutton, à la Polonaise._--This is my economical dish,
_par excellence_, and very much it is liked every time I use it. Take
the remains of a saddle of mutton, of the previous day, cut out all the
meat close to the bone, leaving about one inch wide on the outside, cut
it with a portion of the fat into small dice; then put a spoonful of
chopped onions in a stewpan, with a little butter; fry one minute, add
the meat, with a tablespoonful of flour, season rather high with salt,
pepper, and a little grated nutmeg; stir round, and moisten with a gill
or a little more of broth, add a bay-leaf, put it on the stove for ten
minutes, add two yolks of eggs, stir till rather thick, make about two
pounds of mashed potatoes firm enough to roll, put the saddle-bone in
the middle of the dish, and with the potatoes form an edging round the
saddle, so as to give the shape of one, leaving the middle empty, fill
it with your mince meat, which ought to be enough to do so; if you
should not have enough with the remains of the saddle, the remains of
any other joint of mutton may be used; egg all over, sprinkle
bread-crumbs around, put in rather a hot oven, to get a nice yellow
color, poach six eggs, and place on the top, and serve brown gravy
round; white or brown sauce, if handy, is an improvement. You may easily
fancy the economy of this well-looking and good dish; the remains of a
leg, shoulder, loin, neck of mutton and lamb may be dressed the same
way, keeping their shape of course.


317. _Roast Leg of Mutton._--Choose the same as the haunch. One about
eight pounds weight will take about one hour and a half to roast: run
the spit in at the knuckle, and bring it out at the thigh-bone; roast it
some little distance from the fire at first, bringing it nearer as it
gets done; baste it with a little butter whilst roasting, or cover it
with a sheet of well-buttered paper, which remove just before it is
quite cooked. The leg of doe mutton is the best for roasting; should it
be ewe, and intended for roasting, I proceed thus two or three days
before I want it. I make a small incision close to the knuckle, pushing
a wooden skewer close down to the leg-bone as far as it will go; I then
take one tablespoonful of port wine, if none handy I use catsup, and a
teaspoonful of either treacle, apple or currant jelly, and mix them
together; I then remove the skewer, and run the mixture in it, closing
the hole with two cloves of garlic. This joint I prefer to dangle,
rather than put on the spit.


318. _Boiled Leg of Mutton._--This I prefer of the Southdown breed, and
ewe is equally as good as doe. Cut the end of the knuckle from the leg,
put it into an oval pan, in which there is sufficient water to cover it,
throw in about one ounce of salt, place it upon a sharp fire until it is
on the point of boiling, then remove to the side, and in five minutes
remove the scum, and then let it simmer gently; if the turnips are to be
boiled with it, peel and slice them, and put them into the pan half an
hour before the mutton is done; it must be again put on the fire for a
few minutes, as the turnips have stopped the boiling; dress it upon a
dish with the turnips round it, or mash separate, and with caper or
gherkin sauce: the broth may be reduced for soup.


319. _Leg of Mutton à la Bretonne._--Choose one about six pounds weight,
peel four cloves of garlic, make an incision with the point of a knife
in four different parts around the knuckle, and place the garlic in it,
hang it up for a day or two, and then roast it for one hour and a half.
At the same time you have procured a quart of small dry French haricots,
which after well washing put into a saucepan with half a gallon of
water, add about half an ounce of salt, the same of butter, set them on
the side of the fire to simmer for about three hours or till tender,
when pour the liquor off into a basin, and keep the haricots hot; peel
and cut two large onions into thin slices, put some of the fat of the
dripping-pan into a frying-pan, put in the onions, and fry a light
brown, add them to the haricots with the fat and gravy the mutton has
produced in roasting, season with salt and pepper, toss them a little,
and serve very hot on a large dish, put the leg on it, with a frill of
paper on the knuckle. In case the leg is very fat do not add all of it
to the haricots. This if well carved is an excellent dish for eight or
nine persons; it is a dish very much esteemed in France, and is
considered cheap food from the nourishment afforded by the haricots,
which can be purchased at sixpence per quart.

Shoulder and loin may be dressed in the same way.


320. _Shoulder of Mutton_ is best if well hung; the spit should be run
in at the flap and brought out at the knuckle; this should not be basted
in roasting, but merely rubbed with a little butter; it is served
occasionally with sauces, No. 158. This is sometimes boiled with onion
sauce; or, as it is called, smothered in onions. It is also good by
having the bone extracted, and its place filled with veal stuffing, and
then put it on a trivet, in a baking-dish, with sliced potatoes under,
and baked more or less in proportion to its size; one of six pounds will
take one hour and a half--or as follows:

Put a small shoulder of mutton in a deep sauté-pan or baking-dish,
season with a little pepper and salt, cover over with thin slices of fat
bacon, then put in ten potatoes peeled and quartered, and the same
quantity of apples, with half a pint of water, place in a moderate oven
and bake for two hours, dress upon your dish, with the potatoes and
apples round, skim all the fat from the gravy, which pour over and
serve; it requires a little oil or butter over before baking.


321. _Shoulder of Mutton, Provincial Fashion._--Roast a fine shoulder of
mutton; whilst roasting mince ten large onions very fine, put them into
a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, pass them ten minutes
over a good fire, keeping it stirred, then add a tablespoonful of flour,
stir well in, and a pint of milk, season with a little pepper, salt, and
sugar; when the onions are quite tender and the sauce rather thick, stir
in the yolks of two eggs and take it off the fire; when the shoulder is
done, spread the onions over the top, egg over, cover with bread-crumbs,
put in the oven ten minutes, and salamander a light brown color, dress
upon your dish, put the gravy from it in your stewpan, with a pat of
butter, with which you have mixed a little flour, boil up, add a little
scraped garlic, pour round the shoulder, which serve. The shoulder may
also be dressed in the housewife's method, as directed for the leg. A
little browning may be added.


322. _Loin of Mutton._--Take off the skin, separate the joints with a
chopper; if a large size, cut the chine-bone with a saw, so as to allow
it to be carved in smaller pieces, run a lark-spit from one extremity to
the other, and affix it to a larger spit, and roast it like the haunch.
A loin weighing six pounds will take one hour to roast.


323. _Leg of Mutton stewed with Vegetables._--Have a good leg, beat it a
little with a rolling-pin, make an incision in the knuckle, in which put
two cloves of garlic, then put it into a stewpan, with a pound of lean
bacon cut in eight pieces, set over a moderate fire half an hour, moving
it now and then until becoming a light brown color, season with pepper
and salt, add twenty pieces of carrots of the same size as the bacon,
fifteen middling-sized onions, and when done add two bay-leaves, two
cloves, and two quarts of water, replace it upon a moderate fire, moving
round occasionally, stew nearly three hours, dress upon your dish with
the carrots and onions dressed tastefully around, take off as much of
the fat from the gravy as possible, take out the bay-leaves and pour the
garniture round the mutton, which serve very hot. It can be braised like
No. 289. A few drops of browning may be required.


324. _Neck of Mutton._--This is a very _recherché_ dish, if off a
good-sized sheep, and well hung; it must be nicely trimmed, sawing the
bones at the tips of the ribs, which detach from the meat, folding the
flap over; saw off the chine-bone, and carefully detach the remainder of
the bone from the fillet; detach the skin from the upper part, fix the
flap under with a couple of skewers, run a flat lark-spit from end to
end, fix it to a larger one, cover it with buttered paper, and roast
like the haunch; if of five pounds, nearly three-quarters of an hour to
one hour. It should be served very hot, the plates and dish the same,
and not one minute before it is wanted: serve gravy under.


325. _Boiled Neck of Mutton._--Take one with little fat upon it, divide
the chops, taking care not to cut the fillet, put it into a pan with
cold water sufficient to cover it, place in it one ounce of salt, one
onion, and a small bunch of parsley, boil it gently; when done, dish it
up, and serve it with either parsley and butter made from the liquor in
which it was boiled, caper or onion sauce, mashed turnips separate.
Proceed as under receipt with the broth.


326. _Sheep's Head._--Though this may be seen in every part of London
inhabited by the working classes, and may be procured ready-cooked, I
prefer always to prepare it at home, and very good it is. I choose a
fine one, as fat as possible, and put it into a gallon of water to
disgorge for two hours; wash it well, saw it in two from the top, take
out the brain, cut away part of the uncovered part of the skull, and
also the ends of the jaws, wash it well, put it into the stewpan, with
two onions, one carrot, two turnips cut in slices, a little celery, four
cloves, a bouquet of four sprigs of thyme, a bay-leaf, one ounce of
salt, a quarter of an ounce of pepper, three quarts of water, set on the
fire; when near boiling, add half a teacupful of pearl or Scotch barley;
let it simmer for three hours, or till tender, which try with a fork;
take out vegetables, cut in dice, remove bouquet, skim off the fat, and
pour all into tureen. Or, lay the head on a dish, and serve with either
onion sauce over, parsley and butter, or any sharp sauce; or egg and
bread-crumb it over, put it in an oven for half an hour till getting a
nice yellow color, and serve with sharp sauce under. Or, with the brain,
thus: having boiled it for ten minutes in a little vinegar, salt, and
water, cut it in pieces, warm it in parsley and butter, season it a
little, and put it under the head and serve.


327. _Sheep's Head and Liver._--Boil half a sheep's liver for thirty
minutes in a quart of water, cut it into small dice, put two ounces of
butter in the stewpan, and set it on the fire, then add a tablespoonful
of chopped onions, cook it a few minutes, add the liver, season with
salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, a spoonful of flour, half-pint of broth,
stir when boiling, simmer for a few minutes, lay on dish, and put the
head over just as it is out of the broth, or bread-crumb it, and put it
in the oven.


     LAMB.--The same rules for cutting up should be observed as in the
     sheep. The fore-quarter consists of a shoulder, neck, and breast
     together; if cut up, the shoulder and ribs. The hind-quarter is the
     leg and loin. The head and pluck consist of the liver, lights,
     heart, nut and melt, as also the fry, which is the sweetbread, bits
     and skirts, and part of the liver. The fore-quarter should be
     fresh, the hind-quarter should hang, it should be of a pale color
     and fat. The vein in the fore-quarter ought to be bluish and firm;
     if yellow or green, it is very stale. To ascertain if the
     hind-quarter is fresh, pass your finger under the kidney, and if
     there is a faint smell it is not fresh. If there is but little
     flesh on the shoulder it is not fine lamb; those that have short
     wool I have found to be the best flavored. Nothing differs so much
     in flavor and goodness as this: much depends upon the kind of
     pasture on which the ewe is fed; that which is obtained when it is
     the dearest has but little flavor, and requires the addition of
     lemon and cayenne to make it palatable.


328. _Neck of Lamb à la Jardinière._--Plain roast the neck, as you would
that of mutton; dish it up with sauce, and, whilst it is roasting, cut
one middling-sized carrot in small dice, the same quantity of turnip,
and thirty button onions; wash all in cold water, put them in a small
stewpan, with one ounce of butter and half a teaspoonful of sugar, place
on the fire till no liquid remains in the stewpan; add to it a gill of
brown sauce, half a one of broth, add a small bouquet of parsley and
bay-leaf; after once boiling, set it to simmer on the corner of the
stove, skim off all the fat; when ready, taste if very palatable; it
must be a nice brown color, and the sauce lightly adhere to the back of
the spoon; serve on the dish, place the neck over: white sauce may be
used instead of brown, only add a spoonful of liaison when ready to
serve. This sauce is equally good with almost any kind of meat, game,
and poultry: it will often be referred to, therefore be particular in
making it; you can shape the vegetables in twenty different ways, by
using either green peas, French beans, Brussels sprouts; sprey-grass may
be added, when in season, but should be boiled separately, and added
just previous to serving. Should you have no sauce-water cold, a little
glaze may be used; or, for white sauce, use water and milk.


329. _Saddle of Lamb, Russian fashion._--Roast a small saddle of lamb,
keeping it pale; having had it covered with paper, take ten good-sized
boiled potatoes, mash them with about two ounces of butter, a
teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, a tablespoonful of
chopped parsley, and a little grated nutmeg; mix all well together with
a fork, adding half a gill of milk and one egg; when cold, roll them
into a long shape the size of plover's eggs, egg and bread-crumb twice,
and fry light colored; dress the saddle, surround it with the potatoes,
make a sauce of melted butter and maître d'hôtel butter, No. 285, put in
it, and pour it round, and serve. All joints of lamb can be dressed
thus.


330. _Leg or Shoulder of Lamb with Peas._--These must be plain roasted;
when done, serve with peas in the bottom of the dish, prepared as No.
169.


331. _Leg or Shoulder with French Beans._--Plain roast as before;
prepare beans as directed. (See Vegetables.)


332. _Boiled Leg of Lamb with Spinach._--Procure a very small leg, and
cut the end of the knuckle-bone, tie it up in a cloth and place it in
cold water, with two ounces of salt in it, boil it gently according to
size; when done, remove the cloth, and dish it up with spinach under it,
prepared as directed. (See Vegetables.)


333. _Shoulder of Lamb braised._--Take the blade bone from a shoulder
of lamb, and have ready ten long strips of fat bacon, which season
rather highly, with pepper, salt, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
place the pieces, one after the other, in your larding pin, which draw
quickly through the fleshy part of the shoulder, leaving the bacon in
the meat; after having used all the bacon, roll the meat round, and tie
it up with a piece of string; then put it into a stewpan containing a
quarter of a pound of butter over a slow fire, stirring it occasionally
until of a light golden color, when pour in a quart of water or broth,
and add forty button onions, and a bunch of parsley; let simmer very
slowly until the onions are quite tender, when take up the meat, pull
off the string, and dress it upon a dish with the onions round; take the
parsley out of the liquor, from which carefully skim off all the fat,
and reduce it until forming a thinnish glaze, when pour it over the meat
and serve. Mushrooms may be added ten minutes before sending to table.


334. _Breast of Lamb broiled._--Saw off the breast from a rib of lamb,
leaving the neck of sufficient size to roast or for cutlets; then put
two onions, half a carrot, and the same of turnip, cut into thin slices,
in a stewpan with two bay-leaves, a few sprigs of parsley and thyme,
half an ounce of salt, and three pints of water, lay in the breast,
which let simmer until tender, and the bones leave with facility, when
take it from the stewpan, pull out all the bones, and press it between
two dishes; when cold, season with a little salt and pepper, egg and
bread-crumb it lightly over, and broil gently (over a moderate fire) of
a nice yellowish color, turning it very carefully; when sufficiently
browned upon one side, serve with plain gravy in the dish and mint sauce
separately, or with stewed peas or any other vegetable sauce; tomato
sauce is likewise very good served with it.


335. _Lamb's Head._--See Sheep's Head (No. 324). This will take half the
time to cook.


336. _Lamb's Fry._--Take about a pound and boil for ten minutes in half
a gallon of water, take it out and dry on a cloth; have some fresh
crumbs, mix with them half a spoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper;
egg the fry lightly with a paste-brush, dip it in the crumbs, fry for
five minutes, serve very hot on a clean napkin in a dish, with fried
parsley over.


337. _Lamb's Head with Hollandaise._--If you want it very white, make
stock as for sheep's feet, put it to stew when done, lay on dish with
about twelve new potatoes (boiled) round it, pour over some cream sauce
(No. 280), and serve.


338. _Lamb's Head, with Brain or Liver._--Blanch the brain or liver, and
mince them as for sheep's head, introducing only the yolk of an egg; mix
with a little milk, stir in quick, add a tablespoonful of chopped
parsley, the juice of half a lemon, lay it on the dish with the head
over, and serve.


     PORK.--The flesh of no other animal depends so much upon feeding as
     that of pork. The greatest care ought to be observed in feeding it,
     at least twenty-one days previous to its being killed; it should
     fast for twenty-four hours before. No animal is more used for
     nourishment, and none more indispensable in the kitchen; employed
     either fresh or salt, all is useful, even to its bristles and its
     blood; it is the superfluous riches of the farmer, and helps to pay
     the rent of the cottager. It is cut up the same as the ox. The
     fore-quarter is the fore-loin and spring; if it is a large pig, the
     sparerib may be cut off. The hind-quarter is the leg and loin.
     There is also the head and haslet (which is the liver, kidney,
     craw, and skirts), and also chitterlings, which are cleansed for
     sausages and black puddings. For boiling or roasting it should
     never be older than six months, and the leg must not weigh more
     than from six to seven pounds. The short-legged, thick-necked, and
     small-headed pigs are the best breed, a cross from the Chinese. If
     fresh and young, the flesh and fat should be white and firm, smooth
     and dry, and the lean break if pinched between the fingers, or you
     can nip the skin with the nails; the contrary if old and stale.


339. _Leg of Pork._--Choose the pork as described at the commencement of
this series, if a leg, one weighing about seven pounds; cut an incision
in the knuckle near the thigh, into which put a quantity of sage and
onions, previously passed in butter, sew the incision up with
pack-thread, score the rind of the pork in lines across, half an inch
apart, place upon a spit, running it in just under the rind, and
bringing it out at the knuckle. If stuffed the day previous to
roasting, it would improve its flavor; roast (if weighing seven pounds)
about two hours and a half, and serve with apple sauce in a boat.


340. _Chine of Pork._--Score it well, stuff it thick with pork stuffing,
roast it gently, and serve with apple sauce.


341. _Sparerib of Pork._--When spitted, rub some flour over the rind,
roast it before a clear fire, not too strong, or cover it with paper;
about ten minutes before taking it up, throw some powdered sage over it,
and froth it up with some butter in a spoon, and serve with gravy under.


342. _Loin or Neck of Pork à la Piémontaise._--The neck or loin must be
plain roasted; you have peeled and cut four onions in dice, put them
into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, stir over the fire until
rather brown, then add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, add a good
pint of broth, if any, or water, with an ounce of glaze, boil ten
minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of French mustard, with a little pepper,
salt, and sugar, pour the sauce upon the dish, and dress your joint upon
it; serve with a little apple sauce separate in a boat.


343. _Loin or Neck of Pork, Normandy fashion._--Procure a neck or loin,
put it in a common earthen dish, having previously scored the rind, rub
over with a little oil, place about twenty potatoes, cut in halves or in
quarters, in the dish with the pork, ten onions peeled, and twenty
apples, peeled and quartered, place in a warm oven for an hour and a
half or more, then dress it upon your dish with the apples, onions, and
potatoes around, and serve.


344. _Bacon and Ham._--Bacon-pigs are cut up differently for hams,
bacon, &c., but a poleaxe should never be used for killing them, as it
spoils the head. To be good, the fat must be firm, with a slight red
tinge, the lean a dark red, and stick close to the bone; the rind thin,
if young; if old (should it be well fed it is sometimes better), it will
be thick. For hams, choose one short in the hock; run the knife close
under the bone, when it comes out, if not smeared and has a pleasant
smell, it is good.


345. _Ham._--This useful and popular dish, which is equally a favorite
in the palace and the cottage, may be dressed in upwards of fifty
different ways, with as many different dishes, which are described in
their place. They should be well soaked in water, and boiled gently for
three or four hours. If to serve hot, take the skin off, except from the
knuckle, which cut to fancy; trim the fat to a nice appearance, glaze
and serve, or throw over some sifted raspings of bread mixed with a
little chopped parsley. Serve where recommended.


346. _Bacon._--A piece of good streaky bacon, not too salt, should be
put into cold water and boiled for one hour and a half, and served with
broad beans, when in season, round it, or any young peas.


347. _Sucking Pig_ is merely plain roasted, stuffed with veal stuffing,
but before putting it upon the spit it requires to be floured and rubbed
very dry, otherwise the skin would not eat crisp; the usual method of
serving it is to cut off the head, and divide the body and head of the
pig in halves lengthwise; pour over some sauce made of the brains and a
little brown sauce, or of white melted butter, nicely seasoned with
salt, pepper, and sugar; serve apple sauce separate in a boat, if
approved of.


348. _Hind Quarter of Sucking Pig (Yorkshire fashion)._--Cut off the
skin, cover with paper, and roast before a quick fire about three
quarters of an hour; ten minutes before being ready, remove the paper
and baste it; serve with gravy under, and mint sauce and salad.


349. _Salt Pork._--Pork is salted in the same manner as described for
beef, omitting the sal-prunella, but of course not requiring so long a
time; a leg weighing seven pounds would be well salted in a week, as
also would a hand and spring weighing about ten pounds, and either would
require two hours boiling, putting them in a stewpan, with cold water,
and serving with carrots and greens and pease pudding.


350. _Pig's Cheek (a new method)._--Procure a pig's cheek nicely
pickled, boil well until it feels very tender, tie half a pint of split
peas in a cloth, put them into a stewpan of boiling water, boil about
half an hour, take them out, pass through a hair sieve, put them into a
stewpan, with an ounce of butter, a little pepper and salt, and four
eggs, stir them over the fire until the eggs are partially set, then
spread it over the pig's cheek, egg with a paste-brush, sprinkle
bread-crumbs over, place in the oven ten minutes, brown it with the
salamander, and serve.


351. _Pickled Pork (Belly part)._--Choose a nice streaky piece of about
four pounds, it will take about three quarters of an hour boiling;
serve, garnish with greens round it.


352. _Hand of Pork._--Choose one not too salt; boil it for one hour.
Serve as above.


     VENISON is cut up the same as mutton, with the exception of the
     saddle, which is seldom or never cut; the flesh should be dark,
     fine-grained and firm, and a good coating of fat on the back. It
     should be well hung and kept in a dry, cold place. By running a
     skewer in along the bone, you will know when it is fit for eating;
     examine it carefully every morning to cut out any fly-blows.


353. _Haunch of Venison._--A good haunch of venison, weighing from about
twenty to twenty-five pounds, will take from three to four hours
roasting before a good solid fire; trim the haunch by cutting off part
of the knuckle and sawing off the chine-bone; fold the flap over, then
envelop it in a flour and water paste rather stiff, and an inch thick,
tie it up in strong paper, four sheets in thickness, place it in your
cradle spit so that it will turn quite even, place it at first very
close to the fire until the paste is well crusted, pouring a few
ladlefuls of hot dripping over occasionally to prevent the paper
catching fire, then put it rather further from the fire, which must be
quite clear, solid, and have sufficient frontage to throw the same heat
on every part of the venison; when it has roasted the above time take it
up, remove it from the paste and paper, run a thin skewer into the
thickest part to ascertain if done; if it resists the skewer it is not
done, and must be tied up and put down again, but if the fire is good,
that time will sufficiently cook it; glaze the top well, salamander
until a little brown, put a frill upon the knuckle, and serve very hot,
with strong gravy, and plenty of French beans separate.


354. _Neck of Venison_ should be cut like a neck of mutton, taking the
breast off, leaving the neck about nine inches wide; detach the flesh
from the chine-bone, and saw it off, leaving only the cutlet bones, then
pass a lark spit through it, cover it with paste and paper the same as
the haunch, and fix on spit, and roast, if about eight pounds, for two
hours before a good fire.




POULTRY.


     This is the best and most delicious of the various matters with
     which man furnishes himself as food; although containing but little
     nourishment, it gives a delightful variety to our repasts: from the
     sparrow to the turkey, we find everywhere, in this numerous class,
     that which gives a meal equally as good for the invalid as the
     robust.

     Increasing every day in luxuries, we have arrived at a point
     unknown even to Lucullus; we are not contented with the beautiful
     qualities which Nature gives this species, but, under pretence of
     improving them, we not only deprive them of their liberty by
     keeping them in solitude and in darkness, but force them to eat
     their food, and thus bring them to a degree of fatness which Nature
     never intended. Even the bird which saved the capital of Rome is
     treated with still greater indignity,--thrust into warm ovens and
     nearly baked alive to produce those beautiful and delicious livers
     so well known to gourmets.[5]

     The best way of killing poultry is to take the bird by the neck,
     placing the thumb of the right hand just at the back of the head,
     closing the head in your hand, your left hand holding the bird,
     then press your thumb down hard and pull the head and neck
     contrariwise; the neck will break instantaneously, and the bird
     will be quite dead in a few seconds, then hang it a short time by
     the legs for the blood to flow into the head, which renders the
     flesh much whiter. In France they are usually killed by cutting the
     throat close to the head; both methods are good with regard to the
     whiteness of the flesh, but I prefer the English method, not being
     so barbarous.

     To pluck either game or poultry have the bird upon a board with its
     head towards you, and pull the feathers away from you, which is the
     direction they lie in; many persons pull out the feathers in a
     contrary direction, by which means they are likely to tear the skin
     to pieces, which would very much disfigure the bird for the table.

     To draw poultry after it is well plucked, cut a long incision at
     the back of the neck, then take out the thin skin from under the
     outer with the crop, cut the neck bone off close to the body of the
     bird, but leave the skin a good length, make an incision under the
     tail just large enough for the gizzard to pass through, no larger;
     then put your finger into the bird at the breast and detach all the
     intestines, take care not to break the gall-bladder, squeeze the
     body of the bird and force out the whole from the incision at the
     tail; it is then ready for trussing, the method of doing which will
     be given in the various Receipts throughout this series. The above
     method of drawing poultry is equally applicable to game.


     TURKEY.--The flesh of this bird depends greatly upon its feeding;
     it might be made much more valuable for table if proper attention
     was paid to it. A young one should have his legs black and smooth
     and spurs short, his eyes look fresh and feet limber.

     It is singular that this bird should take its name from a country
     in which it was never seen; in other countries in Europe it is
     called the Indian cock, because, on the first discovery of America
     by Columbus, it was supposed to be part of the continent of India,
     and thus it received the name of the West Indies; and this bird,
     being brought over on the first voyage, was thus named. By many it
     is supposed to have been brought over by the Jesuits in Spain and
     Portugal. It is familiarly called so. It is also probable that they
     were the first who domesticated it. I have seen it stated that it
     was known to the Romans, and was served at the marriage of
     Charlemagne. From my researches I rather think they confound it
     with the pheasant. It has more flavor than any other of our
     domestic birds, and is, consequently, held in higher estimation and
     enjoys a higher price. Do not fear these long receipts, as each one
     contains several.


355. _Plain Roasted Turkey, with Sausages._--This well-known dish, which
has the joyous recollection of Christmas attached to it, and its
well-known cognomen of 'an alderman in chains,' brings to our mind's eye
the famed hospitality of this mighty city. The following is my plan of
cooking it.--It must be first trussed as follows: Having first emptied
it, break the leg-bone close to the foot, and draw out the sinews from
the thigh; cut off the neck close to the back, leaving the skin long;
wipe the inside with a wet cloth, cut the breast-bone through on each
side close to the back, and draw the legs close up; fold a cloth up
several times, place it on the breast, and beat it down until it lies
flat; put a skewer in the joint of the wing, and another through the
middle of the leg and body, one through the small part of the leg and
body, close to the side-bones, and another through the extremity of the
two legs. The liver and gizzard should be placed between the pinions of
the wings, and the points turned on the back. When thus trussed, singe
all the hair off that may remain, take about one pound of stuffing (see
Receipt), and put it under the skin at the neck, tie the skin under, but
not too tight or it may burst in roasting, put it on to a small-sized
spit and fasten it with a holdfast, or hang it neck downwards from a
bottle-jack, put it about eighteen inches from a good roasting-fire, let
it turn about ten minutes, when the skin is firm and dry you press into
the bowl of a wooden spoon, so that it sticks, about one ounce of
butter, and rub the turkey all over with it; when all melted, remove the
turkey eight inches further from the fire: one of about six pounds will
take two hours to roast without pouring any fat over it. In case your
fire is too fierce and likely to break the skin, draw it back still
more; it will, with proper care, be of a golden color. I do not object
to the gizzard being placed under the wing when roasting, but never the
liver, which I cook in the dripping-pan, as the gravy which would run
from it would spoil the color of the breast. When done, remove it, cut
the strings, lay it on your dish, and pour under half a pint of good
brown gravy, or make some with glaze; or, whilst the bird is roasting,
butter the bottom of a small stewpan, pick and slice two onions, lay
them at the bottom, cut the neck in small pieces, add half a spoonful of
salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, a little turnip, one clove, set on a
slow fire till the onions are of a brown color, then add a pint of
water, let it simmer for nearly one hour, then pass it through a sieve
into a basin, skim off the fat, return the gravy again into a stewpan,
give it a boil, and, when the turkey is ready to send to table, pour it
under; if a little beef or veal handy, add it to the gravy if you
require much.

This plan of roasting is adapted for all birds, and all my receipts for
plain roasting of poultry will refer to this, with the alteration of the
time which each takes to cook.

For _Sausages_, I seldom broil them; I prick them with a needle, rub the
bottom of the frying-pan with a little butter, put twelve sausages in
it, and set it on a slow fire and fry gently for about fifteen minutes,
turning them when required (by this plan they will not burst), serve
very hot round the turkey, or on a separate dish, of smoking-hot mashed
potatoes; to vary the gravy I have tried the following plan: take off
the fat which is in the frying-pan into a basin, then add the brown
gravy, mix a good teaspoonful of arrow-root in a cup with a wineglassful
of cold water, pour in the pan, boil a few minutes, pass it through a
sieve, and serve with the turkey. The gravy this way is excellent.


356. _Turkey with flat Sausage Cake._--Roast as before, fry thirty oval
flat sausages (see Receipt), the same quantity of the same sized pieces
of bacon, a quarter of an inch thick, make a border of mashed potatoes
about the size of a finger, one inch inside the edge of the dish, dress
your sausages and bacon on it as a crown alternately, put your turkey in
the middle, and gravy over, or glaze, if handy; plain boiled tongue may,
of course, be served with the turkey, or separate on a dish of greens;
if any remains of tongue from a previous day, it may be served instead
of the sausages, cut the same shape as sausages and warmed in a pan; if
so, put a nice green Brussels sprout between each piece. Bread sauce is
generally served with this dish; for my own part, I never eat it.


     BOILED TURKEY.--This is a dish I rarely have, as I never could
     relish it boiled as it generally is, by putting it into that pure
     and chaste element water, into which has been thrown some salt, the
     quantity of which differs as much as the individuals that throw it
     in. I often reflect to myself, why should this innocent and
     well-brought up bird have its remains condemned to this watery
     bubbling inquisition, especially when alive it has the greatest
     horror of this temperate fluid; it is really for want of reflection
     that such mistakes occur: the flavor of a roasted turkey, hot or
     cold, is as superior to the boiled as it is possible to be. But yet
     there is a kind of boiling which can be adopted, and which I
     sometimes practise, which makes a nice palatable dish, and the
     broth can be used for other purposes. I think, if you try it, you
     will never again resort to that bubbling system of salt and water.
     I proceed as follows:--


357. _Boiled Braised Turkey._--I truss it thus: Cut the neck, leaving
the skin on; cut the legs off; then run the middle finger into the
inside, raise the skin of the legs, and put them under the apron of the
turkey, put the liver and gizzard in the pinions, turn the small end of
the pinions on the back, run a packing-needle with string through the
joint of the wing and middle joint of the leg, and through the body, and
out at the opposite leg and wing, bring it round and tie it on the back,
then run the needle and string through the ends of the legs or
drumstick, press it through the back, and tie strongly; it is then
ready. When the turkey is trussed, I then stuff it; and if I intend to
have oyster sauce with it, I chop about two dozen of them into small
dice and mix them with the stuffing, and place inside the breast. I then
rub the breast with half a lemon, and put it into a two-gallon pan, and
cover it with cold water, in which I add two ounces of butter, one ounce
of salt, four onions, a stick of celery, one carrot, two turnips sliced,
a large bouquet of parsley, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme; set it
on the fire, when beginning to boil, skim it, let it simmer two hours,
or more if large; try the breast with a needle, if it goes in and out
easily it is done; take it out and set it on a dish to drain, remove the
string, serve on a fresh dish with a pint of good thick oyster sauce
over it; by omitting the oysters in stuffing, you may serve the turkey
with celery sauce, Jerusalem sauce, tomato ditto, mushroom ditto, or
good parsley and butter; and, as an accompaniment, a piece of about two
pounds of nice streaked bacon, which has been boiled with the turkey,
and from which you have removed the skin, and serve on some greens, or
Brussels sprouts, over which you have thrown a little salt, pepper, and
two ounces of oiled butter. You see, dear----, that this dish can be
varied without much expense and trouble; observe, that this way, the
broth is good for soup the same day, and by the addition of two pounds
of veal cut in small pieces, a quarter of a pound of lean bacon, one
onion, one blade of mace, one leek, a wineglass of water; put into a
separate stewpan, stew on fire till forming a white glaze, then add it
to the turkey when on the point of boiling; when done, skim off all fat,
pass it through a tammy or cloth; you may use it for any clear soup by
adding a little brown gravy or coloring, and also for any kind of
purée; or, by reducing it a little, make white or brown sauce, adding to
the last the proper color. I must observe, that this will be almost
impracticable when you have a party; the only plan would be to get the
turkey done one hour before you require it, keeping it hot with its
breast in some of the stock; but, as the broth will keep well in small
quantities, it can be reserved for the next day. That is my plan of
boiling, but the following is my new way of giving the flavor of
vegetables to all poultry, which is a decided improvement. The aroma
from the bird when the cover is removed is quite inviting, and the
appearance of it, which is as white as alabaster, and cuts also full of
juice: I call it--


358. _Roast Braised Turkey._--Peel and wash two onions, one carrot, one
turnip, cut them in thin slices, also a little celery, a few sprigs of
parsley, two bay-leaves, lay three sheets of paper on the table, spread
your vegetables, and pour over them two or three tablespoonfuls of oil;
have your turkey, or poularde, trussed the same as for boiling; cover
the breast with thin slices of bacon, and lay the back of the bird on
the vegetables; cut a few slices of lemon, which you lay on the breast
to keep it white, tie the paper round with string, then pass the spit
and set it before the fire; pour plenty of fat over to moisten the paper
and prevent from burning, roast three hours at a pretty good distance
from the fire; capons will take two hours, poulardes one hour and a
half, fowls one hour, and chickens half an hour. This way it may be
served with almost any sauce or garniture, as stewed peas, oyster sauce,
jardinière, stewed celery, cauliflower, stewed cucumbers, Jerusalem
artichokes, which should be turned in the shape of a pear: these should
be dished on a border of mashed potatoes; that is, an artichoke and a
Brussels sprout alternately, or a small piece of white cauliflower, and
a small bunch of green asparagus, or stewed peas, or stewed celery of
two inches long, never more, or any other vegetable according to season,
which taste or fancy may dictate. When I want to serve them with brown
garniture or sauce, I remove the paper and vegetables twenty minutes
before it is done, and give it a light golden color, then I serve it
with either a ragout financier, or mushroom or English truffle. I also
often stuff it thus: I put two pounds of sausage meat in a basin with a
little grated nutmeg; I then take two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions,
put them in a sauté-pan with a little butter, and let them do for two
minutes, which add to the meat, also two eggs well beaten up, and a
quarter of a pint of white sauce if at hand, and fifteen fine roasted
chestnuts; add this to the stuffing, and fill the bird as usual, not too
full at the breast; roast as above, giving half an hour longer for the
forcemeat, put a quart of demi-glaze and a glass of sherry in a stewpan,
reduce it to a pint and a half, add in it fifty button onions previously
stewed, and twenty-five roasted chestnuts; sauce under.


359. _Turkey, if old._--The French stew it exactly like the ribs of
beef, the receipt of which you have; but as this is a large "pièce de
résistance," I think I had better give it you in full as I do it:--Put a
quarter of a pound of butter into a convenient-sized stewpan, such as
will comfortably hold the old gentleman; cut one pound of lean bacon in
ten or twelve pieces for a few minutes in the pan on the fire, then add
your turkey trussed as for boiling, breast downwards; set it on a
moderate fire for one hour, and until it is a nice color, add two
tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir well round until it forms a roux, then
add two quarts of water or broth; when you have it on the point of
boiling, add fifty pieces of carrot the size of walnuts, the like of
turnip, ten button onions, a good bouquet of sprigs of thyme, two
bay-leaves, and ten of parsley, a small glass of rum, a clove, a piece
of garlic, and let it stew gently for four hours. If you use water,
season in proportion. Take your turkey out, and put the vegetables and
sauce in a smaller stewpan, which ought to be nearly full; let it simmer
on the corner of the fire, so that the fat rises and may be removed, and
reduce it to a demi-glaze, dish up your turkey and serve with the sauce
over it; small new potatoes, about twenty, when in season, may be added
to the sauce or roasted chestnuts. The remains are excellent when cold,
or will warm again with the addition of a little broth or water. The
series of entrées will contain the dishes made from the remnants of the
foregoing receipts.


     FOWLS, in a general sense, mean all kinds of poultry, but, in a
     limited view, mean one species of bird, which is exceedingly common
     in all parts of Europe: there are an amazing number of kinds of
     this species produced by crossing the breed; great attention having
     been bestowed upon this subject of late years, that it is quite
     impossible to say which is the best. They are not originally
     natives of England, but were found there by the Romans, having
     probably been brought by the Phoenicians. We distinguish this
     kind in cookery as the chicken, capon, pullet, cock, and hen.
     Chickens from their age cannot be otherwise but tender; capons
     should have a fat vein on the side of the breast, thick belly and
     rump, comb short and pale, spurs short and blunt, and legs smooth.
     Pullets are best in the spring, just before they begin to lay.
     Cocks should have their spurs short, legs smooth, and comb short,
     smooth, and a bright color. Hens, legs and comb smooth, and full
     breast. Black legs are best for roasting and entrées, and white for
     boiling.

     For preparing them for table, M. Soyer has invented a plan:--by
     cutting the sinews of the bird, it not only appears fuller and
     plumper when cooked, as the heat is liable to contract the sinews,
     but it also affords facility for carving when the sinews are
     divided; they are trussed in the usual way, only using string
     instead of skewers. The following is the ordinary plan of
     trussing--

     _For Roasting._--Having emptied the fowl and cleaned the gizzard,
     cut the skin of the wings, and put the gizzard and liver through
     it, and turn the pinion under; put a skewer through the first joint
     of the pinion and the body, coming out at the opposite side, and
     bring the middle of the leg close up to it; run a skewer through
     the middle of both legs and body, and another through the drumstick
     and side-bone, and one through the skins of the feet, the nails of
     which must be cut off.

     _For Boiling._--Prepare as before; put the finger in the inside,
     and raise the skin of the legs; cut a hole in the top of the skin,
     and put the legs under; put the gizzard and liver in the pinions,
     and run a skewer through the first joint; draw the leg close up,
     and run a skewer through the middle of the legs and the body, tie a
     string on the tops of the legs to keep them in their proper place.


360. _Poulards, Capons, and Fowls._--These are the best at nine and ten
months old; if after twelve or fourteen, are only fit to be stewed like
the turkey, No. 369, but in less time, or boiled in broth or sauces, but
when young serve as boiled turkey, No. 367. Roast, No. 365, less time,
but take care to do it well, as white meat with red gravy in it is
unbearable.


361. _Capon or Poulard roasted._--Prepare it as you would a turkey, and
it may be stuffed with the same kind of stuffing, tie over the breast a
large slice of fat bacon, about a quarter of an inch thick, and two
sheets of paper; ten minutes before being done, remove the paper and
bacon, dredge it, and put a piece of butter on it, so that it is of a
nice color, dish it up very hot with a gravy like the roast turkey.


362. _Capon boiled._--The same as the turkey.


363. _Capon or Poulard à l'Estragon._--I have been told many fanciful
epicures idolize this dish. The bird should be trussed for boiling; rub
the breast with half a lemon, tie over it some thin slices of bacon,
cover the bottom of a small stewpan with thin slices of the same, and a
few trimmings of either beef, veal, or lamb, two onions, a little
carrot, turnip, and celery, two bay-leaves, one sprig of thyme, a glass
of sherry, two quarts of water, season lightly with salt, pepper, and
nutmeg, simmer about one hour and a quarter, keeping continually a
little fire on the lid, strain three parts of the gravy into a small
basin, skim off the fat, and pass through a tammy into a small stewpan,
add a drop of gravy or coloring to give it a nice brown color, boil a
few minutes longer, and put about forty tarragon leaves; wash, and put
in the boiling gravy, with a tablespoonful of good French vinegar, and
pour over the capon when you serve it; by clarifying the gravy, it is an
improvement. All kinds of fowls and chickens are continually cooked in
this manner in France. They are also served with rice.


364. _Poulard with Rice._--Having been braised as before, have a quarter
of a pound of good rice washed, put in a stewpan, with a pint of broth,
three spoonfuls of the capon's fat from the stewpan, a bouquet of
parsley, let it simmer until it is tender, take the parsley out, add two
ounces of butter, a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, stir it round, or form
it into a delicate pulpy paste, lay some of it on a dish with the capon
on it, put the remainder round it, making it smooth with a knife,
leaving the breast uncovered; salamander the rice, and serve clear gravy
separate; sometimes I add a little curry powder in the gravy, and egg
and bread-crumb the rice, and salamander or make the rice yellow with
curry powder, and make a border of half eggs round the dish, it looks
well, and that is a great thing; and one fowl done thus will often go as
far as two plain. It is generally the custom with us to send either ham,
tongue, or bacon, as an accompaniment to poultry. I endeavor to vary it
as much as possible; the following is one of my receipts.


365. _Poulards or Capons, with Quenelles and Tongue._--When you are
either roasting or braising, you make about twenty quenelles with table
spoons, out of forcemeat of veal. Proceed and cook the same; when done,
make a roll of mashed potatoes, which put round the dish you intend to
serve it in, have ready cut from a cold tongue as many pieces of the
shape of the quenelles, warm gently in a little gravy, then put the
quenelles on the border; having cut a piece off the end, so that they
may stand properly, with a piece of tongue between each, put the fowl in
the centre, have ready made a quart of a new white sauce, which pour
over the fowl and quenelles, glaze the tongue, and serve very hot. I
found this dish at first rather complicated, but now my cook can do it
well without my assistance; it looks and eats well, but is only adapted
for a dinner of importance.


366. _The same with Cucumbers._--Cut about four nice fresh cucumbers
into lengths of two inches, peel and divide them down the middle, take
the seedy part out, trim the corners, put about thirty of them into a
stewpan, with two ounces of butter, a spoonful of eschalot, and the same
of sugar; lay on a very slow fire for half an hour, or till tender; lay
them on a border of mashed potatoes, with quenelles as above, and place
the tongue between; in another stewpan you have put a little butter, and
the trimmings of the cucumbers, then add a quart of white sauce, boil
and pass through a tammy, adding a little sugar, or other seasoning if
required, and finish with half a gill of good cream sauce over all
except the tongue, which glaze. Cauliflower, sprue grass, Jerusalem
artichokes, or Brussels sprouts, like the turkey, make excellent and
inviting dishes.


367. _Capon with young Carrots._--Scrape two bunches of young carrots,
keep them in their original shape as much as possible, wash them and dry
on a cloth, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a little
sugar, salt, and pepper, set it on the fire for ten minutes, moving them
now and then, add a quart of white broth, simmer gently until very
tender and it comes to a demi-glaze; dish the carrots on a border of
potatoes, the points towards the centre, cook some small button onions
the same way, but very white, and dress them alternately; mix the two
gravies together with a quart of demi-glaze, set it on the fire, boil
fast, skim it, when forming a bright thinnish sauce, pour it over the
capon and vegetables; it being served with a brown sauce, it ought to be
roasted brown like turkey (No. 355); turnips may also be added instead
of carrots, or both.


368. _Fowls, Italian way._--Prepare and cook the fowls as above, or
re-warm some that may be left, cut the remains of a tongue into pieces
one inch long and one quarter in thickness, cut three times the quantity
of plain boiled macaroni the same way, with a few mushrooms, and add the
whites of four eggs to it, with some broth and half a pint of white
sauce; when boiling, add a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan and
half that of Gruyère, shake the stewpan so that the contents are well
mixed, add a little salt and cayenne, put fowl on dish, sauce over and
serve; or put the macaroni on the dish, mix bread-crumbs and a little
grated cheese together and sprinkle over it, put it into the oven until
it is a yellow-brown color, put the fowl on it very hot, and serve with
a little white sauce over, and a strong gravy separate.


369. _Fowl à l'Ecarlate._--Roast and braise two nice fowls, and boil a
fine salted tongue, which trim so as to be able to stand it in a dish,
when place it in the middle in a slanting position, place two fine heads
of cauliflower at each end, and make a pint of cream sauce, pour over
the fowl, and brocoli; glaze the tongue and serve. Fowls may be dressed
in any of the ways before described, and dished up thus.


     GEESE.--We have now arrived at your favorite dish, or, as your
     better half said on your return home from this, "What is better
     than a goose stuffed with sage and onion!" Of course many persons
     are of his idea, and I must say that I for one enjoy them
     occasionally when in season; yes, indeed I do, and with the
     original apple-sauce too; this last addition to our national
     cookery must have been conferred on it by the Germans, who eat
     sweets or stewed fruit with almost every dish; or, perhaps, from
     William the Conqueror, who left his land of apples to visit and
     conquer our shores; but never mind to whom we are indebted for this
     bizarre culinary mixture, I sincerely forgive them, and intend to
     have one for dinner to-day, which I shall have cooked as follows;
     but I must first tell you how they should be chosen. The flesh
     should be of a fine pink color, and the liver pale, the bill and
     foot yellow, and no hairs, or but few, on the body; the contrary
     will be observed in an old one, which will have the feet and bill
     red.


370. _Goose (to truss)._--Having well picked the goose, cut the feet off
at the joint, and the pinion at the first joint; cut off the neck close
to the back, leaving all the skin you can; pull out the throat, and tie
a knot at the end; put your middle finger in at the breast, loosen the
liver, &c., cut it close to the rump, and draw out all the inside except
the soal,[6] wipe it well, and beat the breast bone flat; put a skewer
in the wings, and draw the legs close up, running a skewer through the
middle of both legs and body; draw the small of the leg close down to
the side bone, and run a skewer through; make a hole in the skin large
enough to admit the trail, which when stuffed place through it, as it
holds the stuffing better.


371. _Roast Goose._--Peel and cut in rather small dice six middle-sized
onions, put in a pan, with two ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of
salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, a little grated nutmeg and sugar, six
leaves of fresh sage chopped fine, put on fire, stir with wooden spoon
till in pulp, then have the goose ready trussed as under, and stuff it
whilst hot, tie the skin of the neck to the back, pass the spit through
and roast two hours before a moderate fire; baste the same as turkey
(No. 355), give a nice yellow color, remove it from the spit, take off
the string, and serve with half a pint of good brown gravy under and
apple-sauce in a boat.


372. _The same, with another stuffing._--I have tried it with the liver
chopped and mixed it with the onions; I also at times add two cold
potatoes cut in dice and a spoonful of boiled rice; it removes the
richness of the fat, and renders it more palatable and digestive; and I
also sometimes add twenty chestnuts cut into dice. The giblets should be
stewed or made into pies. (See Receipt.) Where there is no gravy, broth,
or glaze, still gravy is wanted, therefore put into the dripping-pan a
teaspoonful of salt, half a pint of water, and dredge a little flour on
it; when the bird is done, pour the contents of the pan into a cup,
remove the fat, pour over the back of the bird, which serve on a very
hot dish as soon as taken from the fire.


373. _Goose roasted (another way)._--Having the goose ready the day
previous to using, take three cloves of garlic, which cut into four
pieces each and place inside the goose, and stuff it as follows; take
four apples, four onions, four leaves of sage not broken, four leaves of
lemon-thyme not broken, and boil in a stewpan with sufficient water to
cover them; when done, pulp them through a sieve, removing the sage and
thyme, then add sufficient pulp of mealy potatoes to cause it to be
sufficiently dry without sticking to the hand, add pepper and salt, and
stuff the bird, having previously removed the garlic, tie the neck and
rump, and spit it, paper the breast, which remove after it has been at
the fire for twenty minutes; when done, serve it plain with a thickened
gravy.


374. _Goose stewed._--If an old one, stew it with vegetables, as duck
(No. 378), only give it more time to cook. On the Continent they are
dressed in different ways, but which are too complicated for both our
kitchens.


375. _Goose Giblets, Ragout of, or of Turkey._--Put them into half a
gallon of warm water to disgorge for a few hours, then dry them on a
cloth, cut into pieces not too small, put into a stewpan a quarter of a
pound of good lean bacon, with two ounces of butter; when a little
brown, add your giblets, and fry for twenty minutes longer, stirring it
together; add a little flour, a good bouquet of parsley, twenty button
onions, same number of pieces of carrot and turnip, two saltspoonfuls of
salt, the same of sugar, stew together one hour until tender, skim off
the fat, dish up the meat, reduce the salt if required, take bouquet
out, and sauce over the giblets: both goose and turkey giblets take the
same time to stew. If any remaining, they will make a capital pie or
pudding, or merely warm up with broth or water, and a little flour.


376. _Preserved Goose for the Farm, or Country House._--In case you have
more geese in condition and season than what you consume, kill and cut
them up into pieces, so that there shall be as little flesh left on the
carcase as possible, and bone the leg; rub into each piece with your
fingers some salt, in which you have mixed a little saltpetre, put them
into an earthen pan, with some thyme, bay-leaf, spice, a clove of
chopped garlic, rub them for a couple of days, after which dip each
piece in water and dry on a cloth; when you have chopped fine and melted
all the fat you could get from the goose, and scraped a quarter of a
pound of fat bacon and melted with it, pass through a sieve into a
stewpan, lay the pieces in it, and bake very gently in a slow oven until
a stiff piece of straw will go through it, then lay it in a sieve; when
nearly cold put it in a bowl or round preserving jar, and press a
smaller one on the top so that it all forms one solid mass, pour the fat
over, when cold cover with a piece of bladder, keep it in a cold place,
and it will be good for months together, and is excellent for breakfast,
luncheon, or supper, having previously extracted the fat. Last winter I
kept some for three months quite sweet; having half a one left, I put it
by in the above way, bones and all, in a basin, and covered with the fat
produced with roasting, and put in the larder, and it was excellent.
Ducks may be served in the same way.


     DUCKS.--There are several varieties of this bird, all, however,
     originating from the mallard. There has not been that care and
     attention paid to this bird as to the fowl; but I think it is well
     worthy the attention of farmers, it being one which is exceedingly
     cheap to rear; great care should be evinced in feeding it twelve
     days previous to its being killed. Ducklings are considered a
     luxury, but which, I think, is more to be attributed to their
     scarcity than flavor. The drake is generally considered the best,
     but, as a general rule, those of the least gaudy plumage are the
     best; they should be hard and thick on the belly, and
     limber-footed.


377. _Ducks roasted._--Prepare them for the spit (that is, the same as
geese, only leave the fat on), and stuff them with sage, onion, and
bread-crumbs, prepared as for the goose, roast before a very quick fire,
and serve very hot. There are many ways of cooking ducks, but this is
the plainest and the best.


378. _Stewed Duck and Peas._--Procure a duck trussed with the legs
turned inside, which put into a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a
quarter of a pound of streaked bacon let remain over a fire, stirring
occasionally until lightly browned, when add a tablespoonful of flour
(mix well) and a quart of broth or water, stir round gently until
boiling, when skim, and add twenty button onions, a bunch of parsley,
with a bay-leaf, and two cloves, let simmer a quarter of an hour, then
add a quart of nice young peas, let simmer until done, which will take
about half an hour longer, take out the duck, place it upon your dish
(taking away the string it was trussed with), take out the parsley and
bay-leaf, season the peas with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, skim
the fat, reduce a little if not sufficiently thick, pour over the duck
and serve.


379. _Duckling with Turnips_ is a very favorite dish amongst the middle
classes in France. Proceed as in the last, but instead of peas use about
forty pieces of good turnips cut into moderate-sized square pieces,
having previously fried them of a light yellow color in a little butter
or lard, and drained them upon a sieve, dress the duck upon a dish as
before, season the sauce with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce
until rather thickish, a thin sauce not suiting a dish of this
description; the turnips must not, however, be in purée; sauce over and
serve.

The remains of ducks left from a previous dinner may be hashed as
directed for goose, and for variety, should peas be in season, a pint
previously boiled may be added to the hash just before serving. The sage
and apple must in all cases be omitted.


380. _Ducks à l'Aubergiste (or Tavern-keepers' fashion)._--Truss one or
two ducks with the legs turned inside, put them into a stewpan with a
quarter of a pound of butter; place them over a slow fire, turning round
occasionally, until they have taken a nice brown color, add two
spoonfuls of flour, mix well with them, add a quart of water, with half
a tablespoonful of salt and sugar, let simmer gently until the ducks are
done (but adding forty button onions well peeled as soon as it begins to
boil), keep hot; peel and cut ten turnips in slices, fry them in a
frying-pan in butter, drain upon a cloth, put them into the sauce, and
stew until quite tender; dress the ducks upon your dish, skim the fat
from the sauce, which has attained a consistency, add some fresh
mushrooms, pour round the ducks and serve.




FLANCS.


     At this part of the dinner there are those dishes which are called
     Flancs, by which is understood, those dishes whose contents are not
     so large as the removes and not so small as the entrées, and the
     Receipts for which may be taken from either of those departments,
     with this difference;--instead of meat or poultry being cut up, it
     should be left whole: for instance, a loin of mutton, instead of
     being cut up into cutlets, should be served whole, with some sauce
     under it, and a duck, instead of being divided, should be left
     whole, with some sauce. It is also a great addition in the
     appearance of the table, and should always be served in a
     differently-formed dish to the entrées or removes; and are only
     required when eighteen or twenty persons dine, and four corner
     dishes are used.




ENTRÉES OR MADE DISHES.


     ENTRÉES are, in common terms, what are called made-dishes; of
     course, these are dishes upon which, in the high class of cookery,
     the talent of the cook is displayed. Great care should be observed
     in dishing them up, for the eye is a great assistance to the
     palate; it often happens that the carelessness of the servant
     destroys the labors of the cook, by the manner in which the dish is
     taken from the kitchen to the dining-room. In some measure to avoid
     that, I direct a small thin border of mashed potatoes, about half
     an inch wide and a quarter of an inch deep, to be placed on the
     bottom of the dish, which keeps each object in its place: they
     should always be served exceedingly hot.

_Made Dishes of Beef._--The remainder of any cooked joints of beef may
be advantageously and economically dressed in the following ways:


381. _Hashed Beef._--Cut the beef into small thin slices, which lay upon
a plate, and to every pound of beef add half a tablespoonful of flour, a
little chopped onion or eschalot, two salt-spoonfuls of salt, and a half
one of pepper, mix the whole well together, and put it into a saucepan,
with half a pint of water, stir it over the fire until upon the point of
boiling, when set it at the corner of the fire to simmer for ten
minutes; it is then ready to serve. A great improvement to the
appearance of hash may be effected by adding a few spoonfuls of brown
gravy (No. 177), or a teaspoonful of coloring (No. 178), which might
always be kept in a bottle. The flavor of any kind of hash may be
varied, by adding a few sprigs of parsley, or thyme, or a couple of
bay-leaves, or a little tarragon, or a few spoonfuls of catsup, Soyer's,
Harvey's, Soho, or Reading sauce.


382. _Miroton of Beef._--Peel and cut into thin slices two large onions,
put them in a stewpan or saucepan, with two ounces of salt butter, place
it over a slow fire, keeping the onions stirred round with a wooden
spoon until rather brown, but not burnt in the least, then add a
teaspoonful of flour, which mix well in, and moisten with half a pint of
water or broth if handy, season with three saltspoonfuls of salt, two of
sugar, and one of pepper if water has been used, but if broth, diminish
the quantity of salt, add a little coloring (No. 178), to improve its
appearance; put in the beef, which you have previously cut into small
thin slices, as free from fat as possible, let it remain a few minutes
upon the fire to simmer, and serve upon a hot dish. To vary the flavor,
a tablespoonful of vinegar might be added, or half a glass of sherry.
The above proportions are sufficient for one pound and a half of solid
meat, and of course could be increased or diminished, if more or less
meat.


383. _Another way._--Prepare the meat precisely as in the last, and when
done put it into a pie-dish, sprinkle bread-crumbs lightly over, enough
to cover the meat, upon which lay a small piece of butter, put the dish
in the oven for half an hour, or before the fire, with a screen behind
it, turning the dish round occasionally. By grating the crust of bread
you would obtain some brown bread-crumbs, which would do equally as well
as bread rubbed through a sieve.

Should you have any cold from the first receipt, it may be served as
here directed; but being cold, would require to be longer in the oven to
become well hot through.


384. _Another way._--If any left from a previous dinner, put it in a
dish, placing the meat in the centre, rather higher, cover over with
some delicate mashed potatoes, about two inches in thickness, to form a
dome, rub some egg over with a paste-brush, and sprinkle crumbs of bread
(either grated or otherwise) upon the top, and set in the oven until
well browned, when serve.


385. _A quicker way._--Cook a few slices of lean bacon in a frying-pan,
but not too much, lay some of them in the bottom of the pie-dish, over
which lay slices of beef cut thin, which season with a little pepper,
salt, chopped parsley, and chopped eschalots (if not objectionable),
sprinkle over a little flour, proceeding thus until the dish is pretty
full, when pour over half a gill of broth or water, to which you have
added a little coloring, No. 178, (more seasoning would be required if
water was used), set the dish in the oven (having previously covered the
meat over with mashed potatoes) for about an hour. By adding half the
above quantity of liquor, the meat might be covered with a thin suet
crust and served as a pie, as also might any of the former receipts, in
which also a bay-leaf, chopped parsley, or even chopped gherkins, might
be served, being a great improvement.


386. _Beef Palates._--Although this is an article very seldom used in
small families, they are very much to be commended; they may be dressed
in various ways, and are not expensive, about four would be sufficient
for a dish. Put them into a large stewpan of lukewarm water, where let
them remain four or five hours to disgorge, after which pour off the
water, cover again with fresh water, and place the stewpan upon the fire
until the palates become hard, when take out one, which dip into cold
water, scrape it with a knife, and if the skin comes off easily, take
out the remainder, but if not, let them remain a short time longer,
scrape them until you have got off all the skin, and nothing but the
white half transparent substance remains. Then make a white stock as
directed (No. 130), in which boil them three or four hours until very
tender, which try with the point of a knife, then take them up, lay them
flat upon a dish, covered with a little of the stock, and place another
dish of the same size over, to keep them flat, let remain until cold,
when they are ready to serve in either of the following ways:--


387. _Beef Palates à la Bretonne._--Peel and cut two large onions into
slices, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, stirring them
over the fire until lightly fried, when add a teaspoonful of flour,
which mix well in, and a gill of broth, season with a little pepper,
salt, and sugar, add a few drops of brown gravy or browning (No. 179),
and a spoonful of mustard; boil the whole, keeping it stirred until
forming a thickish pulp, when cut the palates into square pieces, and
put into it; when well hot through they are ready to serve; also make a
curry sauce, as No. 151; cut your palate and warm in it, serve with rice
separate, and it is delicious.


388. _Beef Palates à la Poulette._--Make a little white sauce as
directed, No. 130; after having prepared the palates, cut them into
square pieces, and put them into a stewpan, just covered with some of
the white sauce, season with a little white pepper, salt, sugar, chopped
parsley, and the juice of half a lemon; let them simmer about five
minutes, when pour in a liaison of one yolk of an egg, mixed with two
tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, stir it in rather quickly, and not
afterwards permitting it to boil, then turn it upon your dish, place
sippets of toasted bread round, and serve: chopped parsley and a little
lemon may be added.


389. _Beef Palates à la Maître d'Hôtel._--Cut up the palates as in the
last, and put them into a stewpan, just covered with melted butter, to
which add a gill of milk, let simmer very gently about ten minutes,
stirring it round occasionally; have ready two ounces of well-seasoned
maître d'hôtel butter, which put into the stewpan, shaking it round
until the butter is melted and well mixed, when serve as in the last.


390. _Ox-tails à la Jardinière._--Cut and cook two ox-tails as directed
for soup, but just before they are done, skim well, and take out the
pieces of tails, which put upon a dish, then in another stewpan put two
ounces of butter, to which, when melted, add three ounces of flour,
stirring it over the fire until forming a brownish roux (thickening),
then mix by degrees two quarts of the stock the tails were boiled in,
and boil altogether ten minutes, then put in the tails, with one carrot
and two turnips (cut into small dice, or any other shape, with a
vegetable cutter), and about thirty button onions; let the whole simmer
very gently upon the corner of the fire, keeping it well skimmed, until
the vegetables are tender, and the sauce sufficiently thick to adhere to
the back of the spoon, when dress the meat upon a dish, reduce the
sauce, which pour over, and serve.


391. _Ox-tails au Gratin._--Cook two ox-tails as before, and when cold,
dry them upon a cloth, season with pepper and salt, have a couple of
eggs well beaten upon a plate, into which dip each piece singly,
afterwards throwing them into a dish of bread-crumbs, to cover every
part, then beat them lightly with a knife, and again egg and bread-crumb
them, broil them upon a gridiron, or place them in a very hot oven until
of a brownish color, when serve with any sauce you may fancy, or with a
little plain gravy.


392. _Ox-tails, Sauce piquante._--Cook the tails as before, and when
done dress them upon your dish pyramidically, then make about a pint of
sharp sauce, No. 135, but omitting half the quantity of vinegar, and
reducing it until rather thick; season rather highly, add three or four
gherkins chopped very fine, pour the sauce over, and serve.


393. _Ox Heart._--This dish, although not very _recherché_, is a good
family one, and remarkable for its cheapness. Put it into lukewarm water
one hour to disgorge, then wipe it well with a cloth, and stuff the
interior with a highly-seasoned veal stuffing, tie it up in paper, and
pass a small spit through the sides, set it before a good fire for about
two hours to roast, keeping it well basted; when done, take off the
paper, and serve with any sharp sauce, or a little plain gravy. Two
hours would be sufficient to roast a large heart; but if smaller, of
course less time in proportion would be required. I have also stuffed a
heart with sage and onion, and even ventured the apple sauce: both
succeeded admirably.

     I remember, when in business, upon one occasion, having a few
     friends pop in unexpectedly about luncheon-time upon a Saturday
     (which is a day I always contrived to keep my larder as short as
     possible), and having nothing but a heart as a meal to give them, I
     immediately gave orders to the cook to cut it into slices half an
     inch thick, dip each piece in flour, and afterwards egg and
     bread-crumb them, then to put four spoonfuls of oil in the
     frying-pan, lay part of the pieces in, and sauté of a nice color,
     then to keep them hot in a dish and sauté the remainder; and when
     all done, to pour off part of the oil, put a teaspoonful of flour
     in the pan, mixing it with the remaining oil and gravy, then
     pouring in a gill of water, season with a little pepper and salt,
     four spoonfuls of the vinegar from piccalilly, and a little of the
     pickle finely chopped; boil the whole a minute, pour over the
     heart, and serve very hot. It pleased very much, and I have since
     had some with a little plain gravy, and broiled bacon: in both
     instances it was very good.


394. _Potato Sandwiches._--Sauté the slices of beef as directed for
bubble and squeak, cover one side of each piece with mashed potatoes a
quarter of an inch in thickness, egg and bread-crumb over, then proceed
the same with the other sides, fry in hot fat of a light brown color, as
you would a sole, and serve. Any kind of fresh meat may be used in the
same way.


395. _Bubble and Squeak._--I am certain you must know, as well as
myself, of our hereditary dish called bubble and squeak; but, like the
preparation of other things, there is a good way and a bad; and, as you
prefer the former to the latter, proceed as follows:--Boil a few greens,
or a savoy cabbage (which has been previously well-washed), in plain
water until tender, which then drain until quite dry in a colander or
sieve, put it upon a trencher, and chop it rather fine with a knife,
then for a pound of salt beef you have in slices, put nearly a quarter
of a pound of butter into a frying-pan, in which sauté the beef gently
but not too dry; when done, keep it hot, put the cabbage in the
frying-pan, season with a little salt and pepper, and when hot through,
dress it upon a dish, lay the beef over and serve. Endive or large
cabbage-lettuces may be used instead of cabbage, but care must be taken
to drain off all the water.


396. _Stewed Beef or Rump Steak._--Have a steak weighing two pounds, and
an inch and a half in thickness, then put two ounces of butter at the
bottom of a stewpan, when melted lay in the steak, with a quarter of a
pound of lean bacon cut into very small square pieces, place the stewpan
over the fire, turning the steak over occasionally until a little
browned, when lay it out upon a dish, then add a tablespoonful of flour
to the butter in the stewpan, which continue stirring over the fire
until forming a brownish roux, then again lay in the steak, add a pint
of water, with a glass of sherry if handy, and a little pepper, salt,
and a couple of bay-leaves, let simmer slowly for one hour, when skim
off all the fat, and add twenty button onions, let it again simmer until
the onions are very tender, as likewise the steak, which dress upon a
dish, take the onions and bacon out with a colander-spoon, and lay them
upon the steak, pour the sauce round and serve. This slow process must
not alarm you.


397. _Ox Brains_ are prepared exactly as directed for calf's brains, but
being larger, require much longer to disgorge, as also a proportionate
time longer to cook; when done, in addition to the sauce ordered for
calf's brains, they may be served with strips of bacon broiled and
dressed in a border round, sauce over with highly-seasoned melted butter
and parsley sauce. You must observe, that all such kind of dishes being
of themselves naturally tasteless, require to be highly seasoned: any
sharp sauce is good with it.


398. _Beef à-la-Mode._--Procure a small piece of rump, sirloin, or ribs
of beef, about twelve pounds in weight, take away all the bone, and lard
the meat through with ten long pieces of fat bacon, then put it into a
long earthen pan, with a calf's foot, four onions, two carrots, cut in
slices if large, a bunch of parsley, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of
thyme, two cloves stuck into one of the onions, half a teaspoonful of
pepper, one of salt, four wine-glasses of sherry, four ditto of water,
and a pound of streaky bacon cut in squares, place the cover over the
pan with a piece of common flour and water paste round the edges to
keep it perfectly air-tight, and place it in a moderate oven four hours,
when take out of the pan, and dress upon a dish with the vegetables and
bacon round, skim and pass the gravy through a hair sieve, which pour
over and serve. But the above is best eaten cold, when it should not be
taken from the pan, or the pan opened until nearly so.

A long brown earthen pan for the above purposes may be obtained at any
china warehouse, but should you not be able to procure one, a stewpan
must supply its place.


399. _Another method._--Have ready six pounds of rump of beef, cut into
pieces two inches square, each of which lard through with two or three
strips of bacon; have also two pounds of streaky bacon, which clear from
the rind and cut into squares half the size of the beef, put the whole
into an earthen pan, with two calf's feet (cut up small), half a pint of
sherry, two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, a bunch of parsley, four
onions, with a clove stuck in each, a blade of mace, and half a pint of
water, cover the pan as in the last, and put it in a moderate oven for
three hours; when done, do not remove the lid until three parts cold,
then take out the meat, lay some of the beef at the bottom of the
stewpan (not too large), then a little bacon, then more beef, and so on
alternately, press them lightly together, pass the gravy through a hair
sieve over, and leave it until quite cold and set, when dip the stewpan
into hot water, and turn it out upon a dish to serve. The calf's feet
may be made hot in a little of the stock, to which add two pats of
butter, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour, season with a
little chopped parsley and half a spoonful of vinegar, and serve as an
entrée. The above is excellent either hot or cold.


400. _Fillet of Beef._--Procure a piece of fillet of beef weighing about
two or three pounds, which may be obtained at any butcher's, being cut
from underneath the rump; trim off part of the fat, so as to round the
fillet, which cut into slices the thickness of your finger, beat them
lightly with a chopper, and cut the thin skin which covers the top of
the fillet, to prevent their curling up whilst broiling; place them
upon a gridiron over a sharp fire, seasoning with a little salt and
pepper, and turning three or four times to preserve the gravy: about six
or seven minutes will be sufficient to cook them. Three or four slices
would be sufficient for a corner dish; but if for a principal dish, of
course more would be required. Fillet of beef dressed as above may be
rubbed over with maître d'hôtel or anchovy butter, and served very hot.


401. _Fillet of Beef sauté._--After having cut the fillet in slices as
in the last, put two ounces of butter into a clean frying-pan, which set
upon the fire, and when melted, lay in the meat, seasoned with a
saltspoonful of salt and half that quantity of pepper to each piece;
turn them over three or four times whilst cooking, and, when done, dress
upon your dish, with either of the butters mentioned in the last spread
over.


402. _Another method._--When the fillets are dished up, put a
tablespoonful of chopped onions into the pan they were cooked in, which
cook for about a minute, but not letting them burn, then pour off part
of the fat, if too much, and add two teaspoonfuls of flour; stir with a
wooden spoon until becoming brownish, then add nearly a pint of water, a
tablespoonful of vinegar, and a few drops of browning; let it boil a few
minutes, seasoning with a little pepper, salt, and sugar; when of the
consistency of thick sauce, pour over the fillets and serve. A few
chopped pickles of any description (but not too hot) might be
introduced, but then half the quantity of vinegar would be sufficient. A
spoonful of Harvey's sauce may be added, and a little glaze improves it.

Mutton, lamb, or pork-chops, or veal-cutlets may be dressed in a similar
manner.


403. _Minced Beef._--Cut a pound and a half of lean cooked beef into
very small dice, which put upon a plate; in a stewpan put a good
teaspoonful of finely-chopped onions, with a piece of butter of the size
of a walnut, which stir over the fire until the onions become lightly
browned, when stir in half a tablespoonful of flour, with which mix by
degrees half a pint of broth (or water) to which you have added a few
drops of browning and a teaspoonful of vinegar; let it boil five
minutes, stirring it the whole time; then throw in the meat, season
rather highly with a little pepper and salt, and, when hot, pour it into
a deep dish, and serve with sippets of toasted bread round, or poached
eggs on it.


404. _Croquettes of Beef._--Proceed precisely as in the last, but
omitting the vinegar; when done, stir in two yolks of eggs quickly, stir
another minute over the fire, then pour it upon a dish until cold; have
a couple of eggs well beaten upon a plate, also some bread-crumbs in a
separate dish, then divide the preparation into about a dozen pieces,
which roll up into round balls, or any other shape, and throw them into
the bread-crumbs, move them over until well covered, then roll them into
the egg, then the bread-crumbs again, from which take them gently,
patting the surface lightly with a knife, put them into very hot lard or
fat to fry of a yellowish-brown color, being careful not to break them
whilst frying; when done drain them upon a cloth, and serve either upon
a napkin or with fried parsley.


405. _A Family French Salad for the Summer._--I can assure you that,
when in France during the hot weather, I used to enjoy the following
salads immensely, having them usually twice a week for my dinner; they
are not only wholesome, but cheap and quickly done. Cut up a pound of
cold beef into thin slices, which put into a salad-bowl with about half
a pound of white fresh lettuce, cut into pieces similar to the beef,
season over with a good teaspoonful of salt, half that quantity of
pepper, two spoonfuls of vinegar, and four of good salad oil, stir all
together lightly with a fork and spoon, and when well mixed it is ready
to serve.

For a change, cabbage-lettuce may be used, or, if in season, a little
endive (well washed), or a little celery, or a few gherkins; also, to
vary the seasoning, a little chopped tarragon and chervil, chopped
eschalots, or a little scraped garlic, if approved of, but all in
proportion, and used with moderation. White haricot beans are also
excellent with it.


406. _Potatoes and Meat Salad._--Proceed as in the last, but omitting
the lettuce; if any cold potatoes remain from a previous dinner, peel
and cut them in halves if small, but in quarters if large, and then into
pieces the size of a shilling but four times the thickness; put them
into a salad-bowl with the meat, seasoning as before, but using more oil
and vinegar, and adding a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. A small
quantity of any description of pickles might be added to this salad, as
also some anchovies or olives. The remains of any fowls, turkey, cold
veal, lamb, or even mutton, may be mixed in salads, but, according to
our habits, many persons would fancy they were not nutritious; of that I
can assure them to the contrary.[7]


407. _Ox-Kidneys._--Cut a nice fresh ox-kidney into slices, each being
about the size of a half-crown piece, but double the thickness (avoiding
the white part, or root, which is tough and indigestible), then put a
quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan upon the fire, and when very
hot but not black, put in the pieces of kidney, stirring them round with
a wooden spoon three minutes over a brisk fire; then add, for each pound
weight of kidney, half a tablespoonful of flour, half a teaspoonful of
salt, half the quantity of pepper, and a little sugar, moisten with a
gill of water and half a glass of sherry, add a little browning if
handy, and let simmer gently for five minutes, stirring them round
occasionally; if too thick, add a few drops more of water, the same
should be sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of the spoon, pour
them out upon your dish, and serve very hot. Broth might be used instead
of water if convenient, but then the seasoning should be a little
diminished, a little chopped eschalot, parsley, or a few mushrooms,
would be an improvement.

By cutting an ox-kidney lengthwise in three slices, it might be broiled
or sautéd; if for gentlemen, season rather highly, but if ladies are to
be the partakers, season more moderately; a little gravy may be served
with it, to which you have added a little catsup; the root of the kidney
must not be cut away in this case, although not eatable. Ox-kidneys are
also an excellent addition to beef-steak puddings and pies.


408. _Ox-Feet or Cow-Heels_ are very nutritious, especially when well
boiled; they may be served in either of the methods directed for tripe,
or with a plain parsley-and-butter sauce, to which, for a change, the
juice of a lemon or a drop of vinegar may be added. Should any be left
from the first day's dinner, it may be served à la Lyonnaise, as
directed for cold tripe.


409. _Remains of Ox-Tongue._--The remains of a tongue from a previous
dinner may be again served thus:--Cut it into thin slices, put a small
piece of butter into a frying-pan, lay the pieces of tongue over, which
warm a few minutes in a sauté-pan, and serve with veal or fowl, if any;
when at home alone, I frequently have it with mashed potatoes under, it
makes a very good dish for luncheon. The pieces of tongue might also be
egged and bread-crumbed previous to cooking as above, and served with a
plain gravy, or any sharp sauce. (See Sauces.) Or should you have any
tongue, and veal or beef remaining, sprinkle a little chopped eschalots
at the bottom of a pie-dish, lay a layer of meat over, season with a
little salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, then a layer of the tongue;
have some yellowish crusts of bread grated, a teaspoonful of which
sprinkle over the tongue, then again a layer of the meat, proceeding
thus until the dish is nearly full, when sprinkle more of the brown
bread-crumbs over the top, placing a small piece of butter here and
there; pour in two wineglassfuls of water, set it in a warm oven half an
hour, and serve very hot. Or instead of bread-crumbs, make a little good
mashed potatoes, which spread over it smoothly with a spoon or knife,
bake half an hour in a warm oven, and serve.

Should the remains of a tongue be but small, and if well pickled and
boiled, the root and all would be excellent in any kind of beef, lamb,
mutton, veal, or pork, hashed, or in pies or puddings made from those
meats.


410. _Remains of Salt Beef._--The remains of salt beef are very
excellent, served in the few following ways, no matter from what joint,
or from what part of the joint: cut as large and thin slices as
possible, dip each slice into some vinegar from mixed pickles,
previously poured upon a plate in small quantities; lay about a pound
of the meat thus prepared upon a flat dish, pour a wineglassful of water
over, warm it through in the oven, or before a small fire, and serve.
Another way is, after having dipped the beef in pickles, roll them in
flour and proceed as above, adding double the quantity of water. Another
way is to sauté the slices with a little butter in a frying-pan, have
ready some nice mashed potatoes very hot, lay the beef over, and serve.


     _Fricandeau of Veal._--This is a very favorite dish of mine. It is
     generally considered an expensive one, but the way in which I do
     it, it is not so; besides which, it gives a nice piece of veal at
     table, when a fillet would be too large. I proceed to prepare it
     thus:

411. Having the fillet prepared with the bone out as if for roasting, I
lay it on a board with the skin side downwards, and then remove (not
cutting it) that part of the outside which is separated from the thick
fleshy part (in France called "la noix") of the fillet by a skin; I then
place my hand on the top of the thick part, and cut away two thirds of
it, leaving an inch to an inch and a half of flesh for the fillet. I
then take a chopper dipped in cold water, and beat the veal with the
flat part, so as to make it of an equal thickness; I then lard it (see
Larding). You may not succeed very well the first or second time, but
now I am quite an artist in larding, as is also my cook, whom I taught,
it being so much like sewing. But should you not be able to manage it,
you must send it to the poulterer. The remains make an excellent fillet
for another day's dinner. Having proceeded thus far, I then cook it in
the following manner:


412. I take a stewpan of a convenient size, and lay on the bottom six or
eight slices of bacon, and place the fricandeau on them; I then take two
onions, two small carrots cut in slanting pieces, which place round it;
I then make a bouquet of ten sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two of
bay-leaf, which I put in with two cloves, half a blade of mace, and
about a pint of broth or water, so as not to cover the larding; if no
broth, use water and a teaspoonful of salt, cover it with a sheet of
buttered paper, set it on a moderate fire; when on the point of boiling,
put it in a slack oven, where let it remain for two or three hours; be
careful every twenty minutes to moisten or baste the fricandeau with the
gravy which is in the stewpan; the slower it is done the better; ten
minutes before it is removed from the oven, take off the paper, in order
that the top may obtain a nice yellow color; if the oven should not be
hot enough, place live coals on the lid of the stewpan until done, try
also if it is tender with a pointed knife.

     This dish ought to be carved with a spoon, being so tender; but I
     prefer to cut it with a very sharp knife, as it is more inviting in
     appearance. If you have no oven ready, stew gently on a hot plate,
     or by the side of the stove, with the lid on and live coals on the
     top. If you let it burn by any neglect or accident, do not tell
     your friends that I gave you the receipt, as it would eat so very
     bad, and I should lose my good name. It can be served with any
     sauce or purée, but the one I prefer is as follows: Take the gravy
     from the stewpan, which ought to be about half a pint, if not so
     much add water, pass it through a fine sieve into a basin, remove
     the fat from the top, put it into a small stewpan, reduce it a
     little to a demi-glaze, mix half a teaspoonful of arrow-root in a
     cup, with a little water, put it in the gravy, boil two minutes; it
     ought to be of a bright yellow color, and transparent; the
     fricandeau should be served with gravy under it. The following
     purées are excellent to serve with it: sorrel, endive, peas, beans,
     artichokes, and spinach; tomato, mushroom, and cucumber sauces, &c.
     If a piece of udder can be procured, stew it with the fricandeau,
     and serve it in the same dish. This receipt will well repay the
     trouble attending it. The following is very good, and more simple.


413. _Fricandeau Bourgeoise, in its Gravy._--Cut as before from the
fillet, cut the bacon the same as for the neck, and laid with about
thirty large pieces, but in a slanting direction, leaving but little of
the bacon to be seen, as the object is to give all the advantage of the
bacon to the meat; put it into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of
butter, a quarter of an ounce of salt, and one tenth of that of pepper;
set it on the fire for five minutes, turn it with a fork round and
round, then rake some cinders over the coals or charcoal so as to make
it go slow, and until it becomes of a nice yellow color; then add a gill
of water, a bay-leaf, half an onion, stew until quite tender, turning it
over and over now and then; put it on a dish, skim the fat off the
gravy, pour it over, and serve. It may also be served thus: by throwing
into the stewpan about twenty mushrooms, well washed about ten minutes
before serving; if the gravy is too thin, add a little arrow-root, and
serve: it can also be served with the sauces named in the former
Receipt. Nothing is nicer cold than this; if required to be re-warmed,
put it into a little broth or warm water, and heat slowly.


414. _Calf's Liver sauté._--Cut it into slices, put a little butter in
the sauté- or frying-pan, when melted, lay the liver in season with salt,
pepper, a teaspoonful of chopped eschalot, parsley, and grated nutmeg,
sauté on a sharp fire, when rather brown on both sides dredge a
tablespoonful of French vinegar, or a glass of wine, stir it well, and
boil for a few minutes; dish the liver in crowns; if the sauce is too
pale, add a little mushroom catsup or coloring, and it had better be too
thin than too thick; taste if well seasoned, and serve: the above is for
about two pounds of liver.


415. _Calf's Liver, English way._--Cut the liver into thin slices, dip
them in flour, and put in a sauté or frying-pan in which some slices of
bacon have been previously cooked, and have left sufficient fat in it;
sauté the liver until quite brown and rather crisp, when take out and
place it upon a dish with the bacon, then dredge a spoonful of flour in
the pan, or enough to absorb all the fat in it, then add a little broth
or water so as to make it a thinnish sauce, season it, and add two
spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce or mushroom catsup. If the above is nicely
done, and the pieces cut the size of cutlets, it will make a nice entrée
for an ordinary dinner. It should be served immediately, and very hot.


416. _Calf's Liver, dry._--The same may be served dry with the bacon, or
with any sharp sauce.


417. _Calf's Heart, roasted._--Proceed exactly the same as for ox's
heart, only this being more delicate and smaller requires less time to
roast, from half an hour to one hour, depending on the size; they may
also be cut in slices and sautéd like the liver above; or, by having
four for a large dish they may be dressed exactly like the liver (No.
415), but white instead of brown; stuff them and sauté white in butter,
which depends on a slow fire, and, adding the flour, just give a few
turns and add the broth immediately, then the onions and mushrooms,
season as described in the liver, stew very gently for one hour, take
out the hearts, skim off the fat, let it be thickish, boil down a little
if required, prepare two yolks of eggs well beaten, with a quarter of a
gill of milk, broth, or water, which pour into the same, stir quick for
half a minute, add the juice of half a lemon, trim the hearts, dish them
in a dish with the points upwards, pour the sauce over, and serve.


418. _Roast Sweetbreads._--Take the sweetbreads and lay them in water at
blood-heat, to disgorge, for three to four hours; then blanch them for
two minutes in boiling water, put them into a stewpan with a few slices
of carrot, onions, turnip, a little parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, six
peppercorns, a blade of mace, and a small piece of bacon, cover over
with a little broth or water, and let it boil for twenty minutes; take
them out and dry them in a cloth, egg and bread-crumb them, tie them on
a spit, and roast a nice brown color for ten to fifteen minutes; or they
may be browned in an oven, or fried in very hot lard for ten minutes, in
which case they should stew a little longer; they may be served with
plain gravy and a piece of toasted bread under, or a little melted
butter and some Harvey's, Reading, or Soyer's sauce, and a little catsup
added to it, boiled and poured round it; or with any of the sauces
fricandeau. The heart-bread being generally so expensive, I seldom make
use of it, but it may be blanched, larded, cooked, and served like the
fricandeau, diminishing the larding and cooking according to the size of
the bread, or it may be dressed as above, or, if a large throat-bread,
it may be larded.


419. _Sweetbreads sauté._--Blanch two throat-sweetbreads as in the
preceding receipt, cut them in slices, put some butter in a frying-pan,
and melt; then put in the sweet-bread, season over with salt, pepper,
juice of a lemon, parsley, and bay-leaf; turn them until done, and serve
very hot, with maître d'hôtel sauce over.


420. _Another way._--Prepare as above; add a little flour and a gill of
broth, a few raw mushrooms, stir continually to prevent burning, add a
few spoonfuls of cream and serve; if any remain, do them _au gratin_,
that is, put them in a pie-dish or flat plated dish, brown, bread-crumb
over, add a little broth, put into an oven, and, when very hot, serve.


421. _Veal Cutlets (old English method)._--See No. 157.


422. _Veal Cutlets aux Fines Herbes._--Cut from the neck the same as you
would from mutton, only of course larger; sprinkle with salt, pepper,
and chopped eschalot, set them on a gridiron and broil like common
chops, serve plain, or rub a little maître d'hôtel butter over them, set
in a hot place for a few moments, and serve. They may also be sautéd, by
putting them into a sauté-pan and sauté until a nice color, take them
out and put in the pan a spoonful of chopped onions, parsley, and
mushrooms (if handy), stir until done, then add a teaspoonful of flour;
when it is a little brown, add half a pint of water, two spoonfuls of
Harvey's sauce and one of vinegar, stir well round, dish up the cutlets,
sauce over and serve. They may also be larded like the fricandeau, and
served in the same way, and with the like sauces, only less time in
cooking.


423. _Veal Cutlets en papillote._--Prepare as the last, and put them in
a pie-dish and pour the sauce over, and let them remain until cold; then
cut a sheet of foolscap paper in the shape of a heart, and oil or butter
it; lay one of the cutlets with a little of the sauce on one half of the
paper, turn the other half over, then turn and plait the edges of the
paper over, beginning at the top of the heart and finishing with an
extra twist at the bottom, which will cause the sauce to remain in it;
broil slowly on a gridiron for twenty minutes on a very slow fire, or
place it in the oven for that time, and serve.


424. _Calf's Ears stewed._--If you make mock turtle with half a calf's
head, you may serve the ear; after having boiled the head as for mock
turtle, cut out the ear (it should weigh about half a pound), lay it
down on a board and make a few incisions through the thin gristly part
about one inch long; should it require a little more doing, put it in
the soup; when done, stand it on the dish in which you intend to serve
it, turn the top of the ear over outside, so that it forms a round; if
any brain to spare, put a piece in the centre, sauce over when very hot
with parsley and butter, tomato, or any sharp sauce, and serve; or,
instead of the brain, veal stuffing or forcemeat may be used; egg all
over, bread-crumb, put in an oven until very hot and a nice yellow
color, dish and serve with plain gravy: or it may be served with any
sauce or ragout.


425. _Made Dish from Joints that have been previously served._--(If from
braised veal, with vegetables.) Cut it into slices about a quarter of an
inch in thickness, then put the remainder, vegetables and gravy, if any,
in a pan; if not, with water and a piece of glaze; season with a little
salt, pepper, sugar, a bay-leaf, and the juice of a quarter of a lemon,
simmer gently for twenty minutes on a slow fire, dish the fillets in the
form of a crown, lay the vegetables in the middle, pour gravy over, and
serve. Or, what remains, cut into very small dice, leave none on the
bones, put in a pan, shake a little flour over, season with a little
salt, pepper, sugar, bay-leaf, and the juice of a quarter of a lemon,
then moisten it with milk sufficient to make a sauce, warm it for ten
minutes, add half an ounce of butter, stir it well, and serve very hot:
or, if you prefer it brown, leave out the milk and throw a few chopped
mushrooms and eschalots in, and moisten with a little water, to which
add a few drops of browning, or a little catsup; it ought never to be
too thick. Poached eggs may be served with these.


426. _Calf's Brains fried._--Prepare them as for calf's head; cut them
in pieces of about two inches square, dip them into batter, and fry them
immersed in fat; serve with fried parsley.


427. _Calf's Brains à la Maître d'Hôtel._--Prepare the brain as before,
warm six spoonfuls of melted butter; when hot, add one ounce of maître
d'hôtel butter, and, when melted, pour it over.


428. _Stewed Calf's Liver._--Choose a nice fat one rather white in
color, lard it through with bacon, put one quarter of a pound of butter
in a pan, when melted add a tablespoonful of flour, keep stirring until
a nice yellow color, then put in the whole of the liver, turn round now
and then until it is a little firm, then add a pint of broth or water,
and a glass of any kind of wine, a bouquet of parsley, thyme,
bay-leaves, a little salt, pepper, sugar, and thirty button onions,
simmer one hour; take the fat off and the bouquet out, dish the liver
with the onions around it, reduce the sauce, so that it adheres lightly
to the back of the spoon, sauce over, and serve. Any vegetables may be
used, as carrots, turnips, peas, haricots; and if a little gelatine or
isinglass is added to the sauce, and the liver with the sauce only put
into a round basin and pressed down and left until cold, it will make a
nice dish for supper, lunch, or breakfast. If required to be re-warmed,
cut it into slices, put it in a pan, with a drop of water added to the
gravy.


429. _Sheep's Brains._--Proceed as for calf's brains: these being
smaller do not require so long to cook; though very good, they are not
so delicate as calf's brains.


430. _Sheep's Kidneys._--For a small dish procure six fresh ones, take
off the thin skin which covers them, and cut them into slices, put in a
sauté-pan one ounce of butter, when melted and nearly brown, add the
kidneys, with half a teaspoonful of salt, one quarter ditto of pepper,
half a tablespoonful of flour, mix well together, add half a wine-glass
of sherry and a gill of broth, simmer for a few minutes, and serve very
hot; a nice crisp toast placed under them is an improvement; also, a few
raw mushrooms, cut in slices, added when being sautéd, are excellent.
For broiled kidneys, see Breakfast. They can also be cut in half and
cooked the same, and dished in a crown on a border of mashed potatoes.


     431. _Sheep's Feet or Trotters._--Previous to visiting the
     Continent, I had quite a dislike to the unfortunate _Pied de
     Mouton_, whose blackish appearance in stall and basket seemed to be
     intended to satisfy the ravenous appetites of the gentlemen with
     the slouched hat. But I must say since I have tasted them in
     France, cooked à la poulette, I have become of quite another
     opinion, and I have prepared them at home thus:--

I get a dozen of them from the tripe-butcher, all cleaned and ready, and
beg of him to extract the long bone from them. I put a quarter of a
pound of beef or mutton suet in a stewpan, with two onions and one
carrot sliced, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme, one ounce of salt, a
quarter of an ounce of pepper, put on the fire, and cook five minutes;
add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir it round; add two quarts and a
half of water, then put in the feet, stir till boiling, simmer for
nearly three hours, or until the feet are perfectly tender, when done,
take them out, and lay on sieve, take a quarter of a pound of fresh
butter, a teaspoonful of salt, the same of flour, a quarter of one of
pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the juice of a lemon, mix all these well
together on a plate with the back of a spoon; put the feet with a gill
of milk in a stewpan on the fire, when very hot, put in the butter, stir
continually till melted, having previously well mixed two yolks of eggs
with five tablespoonfuls of milk or cream, which put in the stewpan,
keep moving the pan round over the fire continually for one minute,
serve in a very hot dish with croutons of fried bread cut in triangular
pieces round the dish. The stock may be used for any purée or thick
soup.


432. _French Ragout of Mutton._--Take about two pounds of the scrag of
the neck, breast, chump, or any other part, with as little fat as
possible, cut it into pieces of about two inches square, put into a pan
two ounces of butter, or good fat, when melted, add two tablespoonfuls
of flour, stir with a wooden spoon till forming a brownish roux, add the
meat, and stir it round for twenty minutes, add a little water, but not
enough to cover the meat, one saltspoonful of pepper, four ditto of
salt, and four ditto of sugar, a bouquet of six sprigs of parsley, stir
till boiling, set it to simmer. Having previously peeled a few turnips,
cut in large dice of one inch square about thirty pieces, put some fat
in a frying-pan, and fry the turnips until rather brown, take them out,
and put them in a stewpan with the meat when it is done, which will be
in about one hour from the time it was put on; when ready to serve, take
out the meat and turnips, squeeze the bouquet, which throw away, skim
off the fat, if too thick, add a little broth or water, or, if too
thin, boil it a little more, dish it up by placing the pieces in a
circle and the turnips in the centre, sauce over, and serve very hot--if
not it is spoilt. For those that like it, a small piece of scraped
garlic may be added. Onions, carrots, peas, &c., may be used in place of
the turnips.

     This is a very favorite dish in France; I learnt it from an old
     French émigré, who used to visit us about ten years since. When I
     have company, I use the chops of the neck, dress them in a crown,
     placing the vegetables in the centre; I find them very much liked.
     I have at some houses partaken of harico-mutton which has been
     tolerably good, but nothing in flavor to this plan. If there is any
     left, it is good warmed again, or even cold.


433. _Irish Stew._--Cut up about two pounds of the neck of the mutton
into small cutlets, which put into a proper sized stewpan with some of
the fat of the mutton, season with three spoonfuls of salt, half an
ounce of pepper, the same of sugar, six middle-sized onions, a quart of
water; set them to boil and simmer for half an hour, then add six
middling-sized potatoes, cut them in halves or quarters, stir it
together, and let it stew gently for about one hour longer; if too fat
remove it from the top, but if well done the potatoes would absorb all,
and eat very delicate; any other part of the mutton may be served in the
same way. I hope dearest----, that you will not blame my apparent common
taste in saying that I am fond of an Irish stew. I always recommend it
to my friends; I often add a bay-leaf to it, which varies the flavor.




LETTER No. XIII


     DEAREST ELOISE,--I certainly here must avail myself of M. Soyer's
     kind permission by taking from his 'Gastronomic Regenerator' a very
     simple receipt, it is true, but one which, in my estimation, has a
     great deal more merit than that of a sumptuous dish--a new mutton
     chop; yes, dearest, that is all. Many will very likely laugh at me,
     and think I am joking to take notice of a dish of such trifling
     importance, but, indeed, I assure you that I am far from that,
     because I have tried it for my dinner to-day, and in my opinion it
     is as far superior to the other as silver is to copper; and it was
     only in an enlightened era of wonders like ours that such a novelty
     in the culinary department could have been produced; where steam,
     gas, railways, electric light, suspended bridges, which seem to fly
     like zephyrs across the bosom of our mighty, wealthy, old Father
     Thames, and the subterranean promenade under his gutta-percha bed,
     where, as the French say, the fishes from their windows make faces
     at the English while walking below, as well as (and more wonderful
     still) the electric telegraph, which, even more freely than
     free-trade itself, carries like lightning the flashes of the genius
     of a Cobden from our great commercial town of Manchester to
     Printing-house square and various offices the sparks of a speech,
     which, if printers were careless, might set the paper on fire, by
     acquainting the metropolis not only of his love for freedom, but of
     his enthusiastic action, motion, commotion, and almost his
     thoughts; even the cheerings of the _convives_ are actually in
     print, and read with the greatest anxiety by the multitude in town,
     while the report of the last and most powerful line just put to
     press is still roaring with echo throughout the vast cupola of the
     Free Trade Hall as well as in the ears of thousands of guests
     present who have been favored by partaking of the monster banquet;
     and as well, but not so wonderful, the invention, insurrection, and
     demolition of the Chartists--the last effected by special order and
     special constables; the Satanic bottle, double sight, and
     ethérienne suspension of the inimitable Robert le Diable, by
     mistake called Robert Houdin; Banyard's Yankee cabinet picture,
     3000 miles long, out of which 2999 and three quarters are out of
     sight; more so than all, the discovery of rocky dust, called gold,
     in the barbarian land of California, where the humble and
     convalescent potato would be worth its weight of the precious
     metal, a loaf of bread three times as much, and a basin of poor
     man's soup a guinea instead of a penny as here. Have we not also
     heard of the great sea serpent, which a very serious American, who
     appears to have been in company with him, says that he was so
     tarnation long, that whilst engaged in dining out upon 4000 or 5000
     turtles in Honduras, the end of his tail was at the same time
     hunting the white bear in the crystallized mountains of the North
     Pole for his supper, being something of an epicure, and
     consequently fond of a change? These, dearest, are FACTS that no
     one can deny," I guess; "and still it was to be among all these
     marvellous wonders that the innovation of a new mutton chop should
     emanate from the brain of a simple individual, while, for a century
     previous, the ancestors of our great grandfathers were, as we were
     till the present day, often obliged to satisfy their voracious
     appetite with a fat and clumsy mutton chop. Even now, dear, you
     will hardly be able to comprehend the meaning of my enthusiasm for
     this simple innovation: it is then for its great simplicity and
     cheapness, and that if in general use (as I sincerely hope it will
     be), thousands will be able to partake of it and enjoy it, and
     probably will keep a friendly remembrance of the name of its
     inventor, because any one who invents, or tries so to do, attempts
     to conquer the greatest difficulty to obtain fame and wealth, and
     which by others is always envied and tried to be surpassed; such is
     the world. While here, the humble, unassuming, disinterested
     inventor of the said mutton chop will not even have the honor of
     opposition, though he may be copied. Believe me, dearest, that is
     the only cause of my admiration. Now for this wonder.

[Illustration]


434. _Soyer's New Mutton Chop._--Trim a middling-sized saddle of mutton,
which cut into chops half an inch in thickness with a saw, without at
all making use of a knife (the sawing them off jagging the meat and
causing them to eat more tender), then trim them to the shape
represented in the drawing, season well with salt and pepper, place them
upon a gridiron over a sharp fire, turning them three or four times;
they would require ten minutes cooking; when done, dress them upon a hot
dish, spread a small piece of butter over each (if approved of), and
serve: by adding half a tablespoonful of Soyer's Gentlemen's or Ladies'
Sauce to each chop when serving, and turning it over two or three times,
produces an excellent entrée; the bone keeping the gravy in whilst
cooking, it is a very great advantage to have chops cut after the above
method. At home when I have a saddle of mutton, I usually cut two or
three such chops, which I broil, rub maître d'hôtel butter over, and
serve with fried potatoes round, using the remainder of the saddle next
day for a joint. The above are also very excellent, well seasoned and
dipped into egg and bread-crumbs previous to broiling. Lamb chops may be
cut precisely the same, but require a few minutes less broiling.

     You must remark that, by this plan, the fat and lean are better
     divided, and you can enjoy both; whilst the other is a lump of meat
     near the bone and fat at the other end, which partly melts in
     cooking, and is often burnt by the flame it makes; the new one not
     being divided at the bone, keeps the gravy in admirably. If well
     sawed it should not weigh more than the ordinary one, being about
     half the thickness. Do try them, and let me know your opinion.

Ever yours,
HORTENSE.






LETTER No. XIV


     DEAR HORTENSE,--Yours of last night was received at our
     supper-table, which was surrounded by a few of our best friends,
     and I need not tell you the merriment it has created respecting
     your fantastic ideas of this age of wonders. A very sedate old
     gentleman, who happened to have met you at Mr. H.'s party about a
     week or two ago, and wished to be very courteous to you, and
     perhaps you did not notice his compliments, not only would he not
     give a smile to our hearty laugh, but actually swore that such
     comical nonsense was very dangerous to expose before the public,
     and especially if we intended to give publicity to it with the
     Receipts, the last of which he very much approved of. But
     respecting your fun on the review of our century,--"A woman," said
     he, "ought never to interfere with politics!" "Politics!" we all
     exclaimed, "where do you see anything political in it?" "In almost
     every word," replied he. "But in what part?" said we; "explain
     yourself." Unfortunately our hero stuttered very much. "Now,
     it-it-it is not one of-of-of you here, perhaps, who-who-who
     a-a-a-ve been in ann-y-pu-pu-public office like me in ma-ma-my
     youth. I was cla-cla-cla-clerk of the second cla-cla-clerk of the
     first cla-cla-cla-clerk of the private secretary's
     cla-cla-cla-clerk of the Home of-of-of----" Here, dear, we all
     burst out laughing, which made the old gentleman so mad that he
     rushed from the room into the passage, to the street-door, and out
     of the house, without his hat, Welsh wig, great coat, and umbrella,
     while the servant had a regular race to get hold of him. She at
     last found him talking to himself under one of our willow-trees in
     the garden, coming back for his tackle with his two hands over his
     red wig, and his thick head underneath. Being a wet night, after
     inquiring of the servant what he had said to her--"Ma-ma-ma-rie,"
     said he, "you are a ve-ve-ve-very good girl indeed, very good girl,
     and I-I-I-I am ve-ve-ve-very sorry I have no money with me to
     gi-gi-gi-gi-give you something for your trouble, especially as you
     will ne-ne-ne-never see me here again, no, ne-ne-never." "Never
     mind, sir, about the money," said she to him, "I am no more
     disappointed than usual. Good night, sir." "Mary, you are a
     ve-ve-very sau-saucy huzzy, a ve-very saucy huzzy," was his answer.
     He then gradually disappeared in the fog. In a few seconds after,
     she heard some one sneezing most fearfully in the direction he was
     gone, which she believed to be our stuttering friend. So, you see,
     dear, there is quite an event on a mutton chop. But let me tell you
     that, though your receipt came rather late, we still had some for
     supper, and very good they were; every one was delighted with them;
     in fact, we did not eat hardly anything else, being so comically
     introduced to us. I had them brought up at three different times
     broiling hot from the gridiron. I made twelve chops out of a
     middle-sized saddle of mutton, weighing about seven pounds: is that
     right? and I have about three pounds of chump remaining, which, of
     course, I intend making broth, Irish stew, or pies with. But,
     dearest, let us go through the remainder of the Receipts without
     any more interruption.

     My husband begs to be kindly remembered to you both. Ever yours,

ELOISE.



[Illustration]


435. _Mutton Cutlets_.--Trim a neck of mutton by cutting away the scrag
and sawing off three inches of the rib-bone, then cut about ten cutlets
out of the neck, shape them by chopping off the thick part of the
chine-bone, beat them flat to about a quarter of an inch in thickness
with a cutlet-chopper, dipped in cold water, detach an inch of fat from
the top of the rib-bone, and trim it like the following cut, season with
a little salt and pepper, then well beat up one egg, dip a brush into
it, and rub it lightly over the chop, dip it into bread-crumbs, form it
into shape again, and dress in the following ways:--

Put two ounces of butter into a sauté-pan or very clean omelette-pan,
melt it, and put the cutlets in; put it on the fire for five minutes
till it is of a nice yellow color; turn them, let them remain four
minutes longer, try if they are done by pressing with the finger, they
ought to be firm and full of gravy; lay them on a clean cloth, and dress
them in the form of a crown, that is, by keeping the thick part at the
bottom, and the scraped part of the bone at the top, and each one
resting half-way on the other. Every dish of cutlets must be served
thus.


436. _Cutlets with Mushrooms._--If for ten or twelve cutlets take about
twenty fresh mushrooms, cut off the tails, wash them, and dry on a
cloth, put two pats of butter in a stewpan, half a gill of water, the
juice of a lemon, a little salt and pepper, set on the fire; boil for a
few minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of white sauce, when very hot
add a liaison of the yolk of an egg made as follows:

Put the yolk in a cup, and mix well with two tablespoonfuls of milk,
stir well for one minute, put it in the middle of your pan, if no white
sauce, add a little milk to the mushrooms, and mix a little flour with
half a pat of butter, and put it in, keep stirring until boiling; dish
up the cutlets, add the liaison, and serve; or still plainer, take the
same number of mushrooms, wash well, cut in thin slices, put into a
stewpan, with two pats of butter, half a teaspoonful of flour, a little
salt and pepper, the juice of a lemon, and a little water; stew gently
for ten minutes, serve, pouring the sauce over, or in the middle of the
cutlets.

They can be served as cutlets à la jardinière, with peas, with tomatoes,
with artichokes, with spinach, à la poiverade, à la sauce piquante, with
Brussels sprouts, and à la Soubise.


437. _Cutlets à la Maître d'Hôtel._--When the cutlets are done, dish
them up, put two ounces of maître d'hôtel butter in a clean sauté-pan,
keep it moving until melted: put two spoonfuls of cream when very hot,
pour over, and serve with fried potatoes in the middle.


438. _Cutlets, plainer way._--Cut them from the neck, beat them down
roughly without trimming, put them on the gridiron, when warm through,
add salt, pepper, and very fine chopped onions, turn several times, they
will take about ten minutes broiling; dish very hot, and serve. They may
also be served on very white mashed potatoes.


439. _Sheep's Tongue, Demi-Glaze._--For one dish, take six, put them in
water to disgorge, then dry them, put them in a stewpan with two onions,
half a large carrot, a bouquet of two bay-leaves, one sprig of thyme, a
quart of broth if handy, or water, half a spoonful of salt, put them on
to boil, and simmer for two hours till done; try if tender with a
pointed knife, if so take them out, skin them, trim out all the roots,
cut the tongue in two, lengthwise, giving it a little of the shape of
cutlets, skim the fat from the stock, reduce the whole or part to a
demi-glaze, put your pieces on a dish, when ready to serve, make a thin
roll of mashed potatoes, and dish them round it, add a little sugar to
the demi-glaze, and a small piece of butter, stir round till melted, add
the juice of half a lemon, pour boiling hot over the tongue, the sauce
ought to adhere thickly to the back of the spoon. Observe, dear, how
cheaply this dish may be procured, and I assure you it is very
excellent: I have tried it with almost all the sauces I have described
for cutlets, and have found it good with all; they are also very good in
papillote, like veal cutlets.


440. _Sheep's Hearts._--Proceed exactly as with the calf's heart, only
diminish the time of cooking in proportion to the size, about thirty
minutes will be sufficient; serve with any kind of sharp sauce, or any
ragout of vegetables.




DISHES WITH THE REMAINS OF LAMB.


441. _Mince Lamb._--(See Veal.) Serve with poached eggs over.


442. _Remains of roast or boiled Lamb with Peas._--Cut up about two
pounds, bones included, in rather small pieces, put into a
convenient-sized stewpan, add to it two teaspoonfuls of flour, one of
chopped onions, one of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, half a pint of
water, stir gently until near boiling, add one bay-leaf, and one pint of
very green peas already boiled, simmer and serve. Half an hour is
sufficient to prepare this dish; peas left from a previous day can be
used, also cauliflower if not too much broken, and gently simmered, also
a few mushrooms, or if no vegetables, add a little liaison, and the
juice of half a lemon.


443. _Lamb's Feet_ are much more delicate than sheep's trotters, but
they are cooked and dressed the same, only in less time. If there are
any left cold, cut them in two, put them in a basin, pour over a glass
of vinegar, half of ditto of oil, one onion sliced, salt, pepper, fry
them for twenty minutes, dip each piece in a batter, and fry a nice
yellow color in fat; serve on a napkin.


444. _Lamb's Heart._--Six will make a nice dish; stuff like calf's
heart, only adding to it some bits of ham or red tongue; stew and serve
with any kind of sauce.


445. _Lamb Cutlets._--Ten cutlets would be sufficient for a dish, and
might be cut from one neck, as described for mutton cutlets (page 182),
but leaving them as large as possible; that is, about one third less
than the mutton, season them lightly with salt and pepper, egg and
bread-crumb them over, afterwards beating them gently with a knife, to
put them again into shape; then have a little clarified butter upon a
plate, into which dip each cutlet separately, afterwards throwing them
into bread-crumbs, giving them another coat, and beat again. Then if
wanted of a very nice color, put four spoonfuls of salad oil into a
sauté-pan, lay in the cutlets and set them over a sharp fire, turning
when required, six or eight minutes would be sufficient to do them
nicely; when done, lay them upon a cloth a moment to drain, glaze, and
dish them in crown upon your dish, and serve with cucumbers stewed in
the centre.

Lamb cutlets may also be served with stewed peas, French beans,
spinach, asparagus points, sauce jardinière, reforme, poiverade,
piquante, or maître d'hôtel, which will be found in the series of
sauces, or lamb cutlets may be broiled instead of fried, or served à la
Maintenon, as directed for veal cutlets.


446. _Lamb Chops._--Select a fine loin of lamb with the kidney in it,
trim off the flap, and with a very sharp knife cut your chops from half
to three quarters of an inch in thickness, cutting about eight chops
from the loin, three of which should have a piece of the kidney
attached. I also cut two chops from the chump, which are very excellent
eating, although clumsier in shape. Lay three of them upon a gridiron
over a rather brisk but very clear fire, for if smoky it would entirely
spoil the look and flavor of the lamb; and when just warmed through,
season upon each side with a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of that
quantity of pepper; broil of a nice yellow color, and serve with fried
parsley over if convenient. Or lay some nice mashed potatoes upon your
dish, and serve the chops upon it.


447. _Lamb Chops in paper, with fine herbs._--Cut a piece of foolscap
paper in the shape of a heart (and sufficiently large to fold a lamb
chop in), rub a little oil over the paper, then season the chop with a
teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, one of chopped parsley, a little
pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, wrap the chop in the paper, which plait
down at the edges, lay it upon a gridiron over a slow fire, turning it
frequently; it will take about twenty minutes to broil properly, when
done serve in the paper very hot.


448. _Lamb Chop sauté._--Put a piece of butter into a clean sauté- or
frying-pan, and when melted lay in a chop rather highly seasoned with
pepper and salt; fry it until thoroughly done and but lightly browned,
and serve. Should gravy be required, pour off the greater part of the
fat, and then stir in half a tablespoonful of flour, add a gill of broth
or water, and a little coloring; stir with a wooden spoon, boiling five
minutes, finish with an ounce of fresh butter and the juice of half a
lemon; shake the pan over the fire until the sauce becomes rather thick,
when pour over and serve.


449. _Pork Cutlets._--Choose a small neck, cut eight cutlets out of it
of the same shape as the mutton, only leaving a little more fat on it,
season, egg and bread-crumb, fry in pan, serve with either sauces
Robert, poiverade, piquante, tartare.


450. _Pork Cutlets with Pickle._--Sauté, broil or fry, the chops, as in
the preceding; make about a gill of melted butter, add to it two
tablespoonfuls of liquor of piccalilly, and six or eight pieces of the
pickle cut small; when very hot put on your dish, and dress your cutlets
over, or if for a large dish, dress cutlets in a crown, and sauce in the
middle.


451. _Pork Cutlets sauté._--Cut six or eight good-sized cutlets from the
neck of the same shape as the mutton, lay them in a buttered sauté-pan,
season well with pepper and salt, place over the fire; when done lay
them upon a plate, pour some of the fat from the sauté-pan, add a good
tablespoonful of chopped onions, pass over the fire a minute, then add a
teaspoonful of flour; moisten with half a pint of broth or water, with a
piece of glaze added, season a little more, add a bay-leaf and a
teaspoonful of vinegar, with one of mustard, mix well, lay in the
cutlets until quite hot, when dress upon a dish, sauce over, and serve.
This sauce is good with any kind of cutlets, but especially pork.


452. _Pork Cutlets aux Cornichons._--Cut six or eight cutlets from a
middling-sized neck of pork, season well with pepper and salt, dip in
eggs well beaten upon a plate, and then into grated crust of bread (not
too brown) put two ounces of lard or butter into a sauté- or frying-pan,
lay in the cutlets and fry very slowly; when done place them upon a
dish; keep hot, pour some of the fat from the pan, add a good
teaspoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth or
water with a piece of glaze, add half a wineglassful of vinegar, a
little salt, pepper, and six gherkins in slices, place the cutlets in
the pan to warm gently in the sauce, then dress them upon a dish, sauce
over, and serve.


453. _Pork Cutlets sauce demi-Robert._--Cut eight cutlets from a neck as
before, season well with pepper and salt, sprinkle chopped onions and
parsley over upon both sides, beating the cutlets lightly to make them
adhere, then dip them into eggs well beaten upon a plate, and then into
bread-crumbs; pat them lightly, have some clarified butter in a stewpan,
into which dip the cutlets, and again into bread-crumbs, well covering
them, place them upon a gridiron over a moderate fire, broiling a nice
light brown color; when done dress them upon a dish; have ready the
following sauce: cut two large onions into very small dice, put them
into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, fry of a light yellow color, add
a teaspoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth and
a spoonful of vinegar, season well, let boil, skim and reduce until
rather thick, when add a spoonful of mixed mustard, a little coloring;
sauce in the centre of the cutlets and serve.


454. _Excellent Sausage Cakes._--Chop some lean pork very fine, having
previously detached all the skin and bone, and to every pound of meat
add three quarters of a pound of fat bacon, half an ounce of salt, a
saltspoonful of pepper, the quarter of a nutmeg grated, six young green
chopped onions, and a little chopped parsley; when the whole is well
chopped put into a mortar and pound well, finishing with three eggs;
then have ready a pig's caul, which cut into pieces large enough to fold
a piece of the above preparation the size of an egg, which wrap up,
keeping the shape of an egg, but rather flattened, and broil very gently
over a moderate fire.


455. _Pigs' Feet._--Procure six pigs' feet nicely salted, which boil in
water, to which you have added a few vegetables, until well done, cut
each one in halves, take out the long bone, have some sausage-meat as in
the last, and a pig's caul, which cut into pieces each large enough to
fold half a foot, well surrounded with sausage-meat, when well wrapped
up broil slowly half an hour over a moderate fire, and serve. Or, when
the pig's feet are well boiled, egg over, and throw them into some
grated crust of bread, with which you have mixed a little parsley, broil
a nice color and serve with a little plain gravy. This is called à la
Ste. Menéhould.


456. _Pig's Kidneys._--Cut them open lengthwise, season well with pepper
and salt, egg over with a paste-brush, dip into bread-crumbs, with which
you have mixed some chopped parsley and eschalot, run a skewer through
to keep them open, and broil for about a quarter of an hour over a good
fire; when done place them upon a dish, have ready an ounce of butter,
with which you have mixed the juice of a lemon, a little pepper and
salt, and a teaspoonful of French or common mustard, place a piece upon
each of the kidneys, place in the oven for one minute, and serve. Pig's
kidneys may also be sautéd as directed for ox kidneys.


457. _Hashed Pork._--Put two spoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan
with a wineglassful of vinegar, two cloves, a blade of mace, and a
bay-leaf, reduce to half, take out the spice and bay-leaf, add half a
pint of broth or water, cut some pork previously cooked into thin small
slices, season well upon a dish with pepper and salt, shake a good
teaspoonful of flour over, mix all together, and put into the stewpan;
let simmer gently ten minutes, pour out upon your dish, and serve with
slices of gherkins in it; a little mustard may be added if approved of,
or a little piccalilly with the vinegar is excellent.

The remains of salt pork, though very palatable cold, if required hot
may be cut into large thin slices, and placed in a buttered sauté- or
frying-pan, with a little broth, or merely fried in the butter, and
served with a purée of winter peas, made by boiling half a pint of peas
until tender (tied up in a cloth); when done put them into a stewpan
with two ounces of butter; season with pepper and salt, add a gill of
milk or cream, pour into the dish, and dress the pork over.

It may also be cut into thin slices and put into a soup plate, and pour
some catsup or Harvey sauce over it, and let it remain for half an hour;
butter the inside of a pudding basin, and lay some of the remains of
peas pudding round it, and then place in the pork, cover it with some of
the pudding, place it in a saucepan with a little water to get hot for
about half an hour, and then turn it out and serve. Should you not have
quite pork enough, you may make it up with a little sausage-meat, or any
other kind of meat.


458. _Fritadella (twenty receipts in one)._--Put half a pound of crumb
of bread to soak in a pint of cold water, take the same quantity of any
kind of roast or boiled meat, with a little fat, chop it up like sausage
meat, then put your bread in a clean cloth, press it to extract all the
water, put into a stewpan two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of
chopped onions, fry for two minutes, then add the bread, stir with a
wooden spoon until rather dry, then add the meat, season with a
teaspoonful of salt, half the same of pepper, a little grated nutmeg,
the same of lemon peel, stir continually until very hot; then add two
eggs, one at a time, well mix together, and pour on a dish to get cold.
Then take a piece as big as a small egg, and roll it to the same shape,
flatten it a little, egg and bread-crumb over, keeping the shape, do all
of it the same way, then put into a sauté-pan a quarter of a pound of
lard, or clean fat, or oil; when hot, but not too much so, put in the
pieces, and sauté a very nice yellow color, and serve very hot, plain,
on a napkin, or on a border of mashed potatoes, with any sauce or
garniture you fancy. These can be made with the remains of any kind of
meat, poultry, game, fish, and even vegetables; hard eggs or cold mashed
potatoes may be introduced in small quantities, and may be fried instead
of sautéd, in which case put about two pounds of fat in the frying-pan,
and if care is used it will do several times. This is an entirely new
and very economical and palatable dish, and fit for all seasons, and if
once tried would be often repeated; the only expense attending it is the
purchase of a small wire sieve for the bread-crumbs. The reason I call
it twenty receipts in one is, that all kinds of food may be used for it,
even shrimps, oysters, and lobsters.


459. _Ramifolle._--These are a little more expensive than the
fritadella, and worthy the table of a crowned head. The flesh of fowls
instead of lamb or veal, with the addition of one or two fat livers cut
in dice. Proceed as in the former receipt, using the crumb of French
rolls, and one or two truffles chopped fine: then make some pancake
batter, and sauté two pancakes about one eighth of an inch thick, cover
one with the meat, &c., and lay the other over, and put by until cold;
when so cut them to any shape you like, but if like cutlets add the
small bone of fowl or pigeon, or the stalk of a sprig of parsley, egg
and bread-crumb them, and sauté them in oil or lard of a nice yellow
color, and dish them like cutlets, with any of the sauces or garnitures
described for mutton cutlets; or if plain, with fried parsley. They may
be made of any kind of meat, fish, or poultry. I have latterly had them
sent up to table when we have had a few friends, and they have been very
much liked; and, on inquiring the name, I baptized them Ramifolle,
without any particular meaning, which name having pleased as much as the
dish, therefore let them be called Ramifolles.

They may be made a plainer way with various meats or liver, and spread
over one pancake, which roll over, and when cold cut it into three equal
lengths, egg, bread-crumb, and sauté as above.


460. _Prussian Cutlets._--Take a piece of veal, say one pound, from any
part of the calf, as long as you extract the nerve, with a little fat,
chop it up, but not too fine, add to it two teaspoonfuls of chopped
eschalot, one of salt, half a one of pepper, little grated nutmeg, chop
it a little more, and make it into pieces of the size of two walnuts,
which give the shape of a cutlet; egg and bread-crumb each, keeping the
shape; insert a small bone at the small end, sauté in fat, oil, lard, or
butter, give it ten minutes on a slow fire till a nice brown color, dish
and serve, with demi-glaze sauce, in which you have put a spoonful of
Harvey's, and serve with any brown or white sauce or stewed vegetables
you like. Any kind of meat may be used.


     461. _Cutlets à la Victime, or Victimized Cutlets._--Here, _ma
     belle amie_, is a terrific title for a receipt but do not fear it,
     as the time of the Inquisition is past, and you are not likely to
     become one in partaking of it. I do not recommend it to you on the
     score of economy, as it is the tip-top of extravagance; but forward
     it as a curiosity, and also in case similar circumstances should
     happen which caused its invention, which, you must know, was done
     by a culinary artist of Louis XVIII. of France, at the palace of
     the Tuileries, and first partaken of by this intellectual monarch
     and gourmet, who, at the end of his stormy reign, through a serious
     illness, was completely paralyzed, and, at the same time, the
     functionary organs of digestion were much out of order; being also
     a man of great corpulence, and a great admirer of the festive
     board, much food was required to satisfy his royal appetite; and
     the difficulty which his physicians experienced was to supply his
     want of food in the smallest compass. The head-cook, on being
     consulted, begged a few hours' reflection before he could give an
     answer to so important a question, as nothing but mutton entirely
     deprived of fat was to compose his Majesty's meal. After profound
     study by the chief and his satellites, a voice was heard from the
     larder, which was a considerable distance from the kitchen, crying,
     "I have found it, I have found it." It was a young man of the name
     of Alphonse Pottier, who, in saying so, made his appearance in the
     kitchen with three beautiful mutton cutlets, tastefully trimmed and
     tied together; he then, with a small skewer, fastened them to a
     spit, and placed them, to the astonishment of all present, close to
     the bars of the grate: two of the cutlets soon got brown (observe,
     not a word was to be said until the trial was made), from brown
     they soon turned black: every one gazed at each other in
     astonishment whilst Pottier, with quite a composed countenance,
     terminated his scientific experiment, took them off the spit, drew
     the skewer out, cut the string, threw the two burnt cutlets away,
     and merely served the middle one, which seems to have received all
     the nutriment of the other two; it was served and greatly approved
     of by the physicians, as well as by the gourmet potentate, who in
     consequence of two being sacrificed for one, named it 'Cutlet à la
     Victime,' and often afterwards used to partake of them when in the
     enjoyment of health.

Cut three cutlets from the neck of mutton, about half an inch thick,
trim one very nicely, free from fat, leave the other two as cut off, put
the trimmed one between the two, flatten them together, so that the fat
of the outside ones meet over the middle one; tie them together thus,
and broil over a very strong fire for ten minutes; remove it from the
fire, cut the string, and dish up the middle one only on a very hot
dish, with a little salt sprinkled over it. If wanted roasted, proceed
as above.


462. _Roast and Braised Chicken, for Entrées._--Have a chicken trussed
for boiling; put it on a spit, envelop it as for turkey (No. 358), roast
half the time or little less, depending on the fire and the size of the
chicken; when done, remove it from the spit, and take off the envelope,
and serve with any of the following garniture:--jardinière, green peas,
oysters, cucumbers, Jerusalem artichokes, white mushroom sauce, ragout
of quenelles, juice of tarragon (No. 363), Dutch sauce, with a few heads
of cauliflower well boiled, and cut small.


463. _Braised Chicken._--If not convenient to roast, put a little bacon
in a stewpan, then a chicken, a large onion, half a carrot, half a head
of celery, two bay-leaves, two cloves, one peppercorn, one and a half
tablespoonfuls of salt, a little pepper, a bouquet garni, and a quart of
water, let simmer till tender; dish up, after having well drained it,
take the string off, pour any of the above sauces over or under them;
when the chicken is done, you can make, with the addition of a little
more water, a very good purée, and even sauces, and by adding some
trimmings of beef, veal, lamb, or mutton, it will make a first-rate
clear broth, after being clarified giving it a proper color.


464. _Chicken plain boiled._--Put two quarts of water into a stewpan, on
the fire, or two ounces of butter, and a tablespoonful of salt and a few
vegetables; when boiling, rub the breast of the chicken with half a
lemon, and put it in to simmer from a quarter of an hour to twenty
minutes; if a large fowl, increase the quantity of water, and boil
longer; sauce over with parsley and butter, or celery sauce, or any of
the above: use the broth.

The remains of any of the above, or of turkey, capon, guinea-fowl, or
other poultry, may be dressed as hash, by cutting them into neat pieces;
put them into a stewpan, put to it half a tablespoonful of salt, one of
flour, half a one of chopped onions, ditto of parsley, a bay-leaf, half
a pint of water, a few drops of coloring; set to simmer for twenty
minutes, and serve; the addition of a few mushrooms is excellent.


465. _Poultry en Capilotade._--Put with the pieces of fowl a
tablespoonful of oil, and one glass of sherry, into a pan, and proceed
as above; when ready to serve, chop a few gherkins, and put in.


466. _Indian Hash Fowl._--Make a pint of sauce (p. 70), warm, put into
it your pieces of fowl, and serve with rice plain-boiled.


467. _Fried Fowl._--When you have cut the pieces as before, put them
into a basin with a little salt, pepper, a spoonful of oil, and two of
vinegar, and a little chopped eschalot, stir them well in it, and let
remain for half an hour, have ready a quantity of batter, and take a
fork and dip each piece one after the other into it, and then let it
drop into the frying-pan, in which is sufficient hot fat to cover them;
fry a nice color, and serve in a pyramid, with fried parsley over, or
any sauce you like under.


468. _Blanquette of Fowl._--Put half a pint of white sauce in a stewpan,
with six tablespoonfuls of broth or milk, let it boil, having cut up
about a pound of the remains of any kind of poultry, put it in the
sauce, warm it, and add two spoonfuls of liaison to it; season with a
little salt, pepper, the juice of half a lemon, stir it, and serve. Do
not let it boil, or it will curdle, and be unsightly and unpalatable; a
little cooked ham or tongue are good in it, also oysters, and served
with bread sippets round. A little chopped parsley sprinkled over it
makes it look very inviting.


469. _Minced Fowl._--Cut the remains into small dice, with a little ham
or tongue, add thick white sauce, season mildly; it can be served with
poached eggs over.


470. _Sauté of Fowl._--See the article Sauté, which is applicable to all
kinds of poultry; if the fowl be old, it should be previously stewed.


471. _Broiled Fowl, with Sauce._--Have a fowl ready plucked and drawn,
open the back from one end to the other with a sharp knife, having
previously cut the feet off at the second joint, make an incision in the
skin, and pass the bone through to fix it internally; lay the fowl on
the table, breast down, beat it as flat as possible with a chopper, take
out the breast-bone, and also the rough part of the interior of the
back, especially if a large or old fowl; after you have it in a nice
shape, season all over with a teaspoonful of salt and half one of
pepper, put it on a gridiron, over a slow fire, turning it every five
minutes until done; if a young one, twenty-five minutes ought to do it
well; but by trying with the finger on the thick part, it will easily be
known by even an inexperienced hand, if firm under the finger, it is
done, or by pressing the wing, and if tender, it is also done; put on
dish, and pour over a brown mushroom sauce, or the following: put two
spoonfuls of Chili vinegar, two of Harvey's sauce, two of catsup, one of
chopped eschalot, ten of plain melted butter, put in a stewpan and boil
for twenty minutes; skim and serve under or over.


472. _Another way._--When the fowl is ready for broiling, put four
tablespoonfuls of oil or fat, or one ounce of butter, into a sauté-pan,
lay in the fowl, and sauté it gently until a nice yellow color, and then
broil as above; or egg and bread-crumb it over, melting a little butter,
and drop a little now and then when on the fire, and with care it will
be gold color; serve with either sharp, mushroom, tomato, or poivrade
sauce on.


473. _A la Tartare._--By making about half a pint of the above sauce,
and ornament an oval dish by placing on the border cut gherkins,
beet-root, olives, place the sauce on it, and lay the fowl very hot over
it; thus the fowl is hot and the sauce cold, but together very good.


474. _Croquettes of Fowl._--Take the lean of the remains of a fowl from
a previous dinner, and chop it up in small pieces, then put into a
stewpan a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots with half an ounce of butter,
pass them for about three minutes over the fire, add a teaspoonful of
flour, mix well, then add the fowl, and a gill of white sauce, or more
if not sufficiently moist; season with pepper, salt, and sugar; then
stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, stir it a little longer on
the fire, and turn it out on a dish to cool; when cold, take twelve
pieces, each of the size of a walnut, roll them out an inch and a half
in length, and bread-crumb thrice over; fry a good color, dress them on
a napkin, or a border of mashed potatoes. Every kind of remains of game,
meat, poultry, and fish, may be made the same way: if no sauce, add a
little more flour, and use milk or broth.


475. _Fricassée of Fowl._--Divide a fowl into eight pieces, wash it
well, put the pieces into a stewpan, and cover with boiling water,
season with a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, a good bouquet of
parsley, four cloves, and a blade of mace, let it boil twenty minutes,
pass the stock through a sieve into a basin; take out the pieces of
fowl, trim nicely, then put into another stewpan two ounces of butter,
with which mix a good spoonful of flour, moisten with stock, put in the
pieces of fowl, stir occasionally until boiling, skim well, add twenty
button onions, let simmer until the onions are tender, when add a gill
of cream, with which you have mixed the yolks of two eggs, stir in
quickly over the fire, but do not let it boil; take out the pieces,
dress in pyramid upon the dish, and serve.

If you require to warm up the remainder of the above, put it into a
basin, which stand in a stewpan in which you have placed a little water,
put the cover over, and let it boil gently, by which means the contents
of the basin will get warm without turning the sauce; when hot, dish up
and serve. The same plan ought to be adopted to warm up any remains of
dishes in which a liaison has been introduced; it prevents its turning,
which is unavoidable in any other way.


476. _Fowl Sauté._--Pluck and draw a fowl, cut it into pieces, seven or
eight, as you like, that is, the two French wings, the two legs, the
breast in one or two pieces, and the back in two; trim nicely, put into
a sauté-pan two ounces of butter, put it on the fire; when hot, lay in
your pieces, add a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, sauté
gently, turn over; when of a nice gold color and tender, pour the fat of
the pan, add a glass of sherry and ten spoonfuls of brown sauce, boil
ten minutes longer but very slowly, and serve in pyramid; sauce over.
This done in oil, with the addition of twenty mushrooms and a little
garlic, is the celebrated dish of _poulet à la Marengo_.


477. _The Same, a plainer way._--When prepared and cooked as above,
instead of the sauce, which may not be handy, add a spoonful of flour,
which dredge over till it is well mixed, then add half a pint of boiling
water, a few drops of coloring or some mushroom-catsup, two teaspoonfuls
of salt and a half of pepper, add a bouquet of parsley, let it simmer
for twenty minutes, skim, taste if your sauce is well seasoned, dish
your fowl, reduce your sauce until adhering to the back of the spoon,
add the juice of half a lemon, and serve. A few mushrooms or English
truffles may be added to it, which is a great improvement; the color of
the sauce ought to be brownish; take out the bouquet which you have
previously squeezed.


478. _Sauté of Fowl with Vegetables._--Proceed exactly as above, only
omitting the wine, add to the sauce fifty heads of young green
scallions, or some small pieces of carrot and turnip, or a pint of green
peas, or cucumbers cut in nice pieces, stew till tender, add a spoonful
of powdered sugar, dish the fowl, skim the sauce, take out the parsley;
when your sauce is thickish and of a nice color, pour over the fowl, and
serve very hot.


479. _Blanquettes of Turkey._--Cut off the flesh from the remainder of a
roast or boiled turkey into as large slices as possible, then break up
the bones, which put into a stewpan, with a little lean bacon and an
onion, and a small bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, just cover
them with water, and boil gently for three quarters of an hour, skim,
and pass the stock through a cloth, and with it make a little white
sauce as directed, then put the meat into another stewpan, lightly
seasoned with a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; just cover it
with some of the sauce, and warm it gradually, not, however, permitting
it to boil; when very hot, stir in three tablespoonfuls of cream, with
which you have mixed the yolk of an egg, and when beginning to thicken,
dress it upon a dish with toasted or fried sippets of bread around,
cucumbers cut and dressed as directed p. 67, and added to the blanquette
are a very great improvement, as are likewise button mushrooms or a few
slices of cooked ham or tongue.

For a blanquette of fowl proceed precisely the same.


480. _Boudins of Fowl or Turkey._--Cut up the remains of a turkey or
fowls into very small dice, with a quarter of a pound of lean cooked ham
to each pound of meat, make a stock with the bones as directed in the
last; put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots into a stewpan, with a
piece of butter of the size of a walnut, which stir over the fire until
the eschalots become a little yellowish, when stir in a good
tablespoonful of flour, add the meat and about a pint of the stock, let
boil gently a few minutes, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar,
stir the yolks of two eggs in quickly, and pour it out upon a dish until
cold, when divide it into pieces of the size of eggs, which rub into
long pieces of the shape and size of flat sausages, which egg and
bread-crumb twice over, and fry of a nice brown color in hot fat or
dripping, drain upon a cloth, and serve very hot.


481. _Turban of Croquettes à l'Epigramme._--Croquettes are made from the
same preparation as the last, but made up into small pieces, two inches
in length and the thickness of your finger; egg, bread-crumb, and fry
the same, dress in a circle upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve
with some blanquette of turkey or fowl in the centre.


482. _Hashed Goose._--Put a spoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan
with an ounce of butter, which fry over the fire until becoming rather
browned, then stir a tablespoonful of flour, put in the remains of a
goose, cut into neat pieces, and well seasoned with pepper and salt; add
a pint of stock, let the whole simmer about ten minutes, and it is ready
to serve. A little apple sauce may be served separately in a boat, or a
couple of apples sliced, a few leaves of bruised dried sage may be
stewed with the hash.


483. _Stewed Duck with Peas._--Truss a duck with the legs turned inside,
which put into a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a quarter of a
pound of streaked bacon, cut into small dice, set the stewpan over a
moderate fire, occasionally stirring its contents until it becomes
lightly browned, then add a good teaspoonful of flour, and when well
mixed, a pint of stock or water, stir occasionally until boiling, when
add twenty button onions and a bunch of parsley with a bay-leaf; let the
whole simmer a quarter of an hour, keeping it well skimmed, then add a
quart of young peas, and simmer half an hour longer, or until the peas
are quite tender, when take out the duck, draw out the string, and dress
it upon your dish; remove the parsley and bay-leaf, season the peas and
sauce with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, pour over the duck and
serve.


484. _Stewed Duck with Turnips._--Proceed as in the last, but, instead
of peas, use about forty pieces of good turnips, cut into
moderately-sized squares, and previously fried, of a yellowish color, in
a little lard or butter, dress the duck upon your dish, season the
turnips and sauce with a little salt, pepper and sugar, and reduce it
until thickish, not however to break the turnips; sauce over, and serve.

The remains of ducks left from a previous dinner may be hashed as
directed for goose, but the sage and apple should in all cases be
omitted; for variety, should peas be in season, a pint freshly boiled
may be mixed with the hash at the time of serving.


485. _Fowl Sauté in Oil._--Cut a fowl into eight pieces, that is, the
two wings, two legs, two pieces of the breast, and two of the back,
which put into a stewpan, with three tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, over a
moderate fire, shaking the stewpan round occasionally, until the pieces
of fowl are rather browned, when mix in a tablespoonful of flour, which
moisten with a pint of stock or water, let it simmer at the corner of
the fire twenty minutes, skimming off the oil as it rises to the
surface; add a few blanched mushrooms in slices, season with a little
salt, pepper, sugar, and a piece of scraped garlic the size of a pea;
take out the fowl, which pile upon your dish, laying the worst pieces at
the bottom; reduce the sauce over the fire, keeping it stirred until
sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of the spoon, when pour over
the fowl and serve. Use brown sauce, if handy.


486. _Fricassée of Rabbit._--Cut a nice young rabbit into neat joints,
and put them into lukewarm water to disgorge for half an hour, when
drain and put them into a stewpan, with a large onion cut into slices,
two cloves, a blade of mace, a little parsley, one bay-leaf, and a
quarter of a pound of streaky bacon cut into small dice; cover the whole
with water, and let it simmer twenty minutes, keeping it well skimmed;
then pass the stock through a sieve into a basin, take out the pieces of
rabbit with the bacon, then in another stewpan have two ounces of
butter, with which mix a good tablespoonful of flour, moisten with the
stock, and stir over the fire until boiling; then trim neatly the pieces
of rabbit, which, with the bacon and twenty button onions, put into the
sauce; let the whole simmer until the onions are tender, skimming off
all the fat as it rises to the surface; then pour in a gill of cream,
with which you have mixed the yolks of two eggs, leave it a moment upon
the fire to thicken (but not to boil), take out the rabbit, which pile
upon your dish, sauce over and serve.


487. _Gibelotte of Rabbit._--Cut up a young rabbit into neat joints, as
likewise a quarter of a pound of streaky bacon in small dice, put the
bacon into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, and when a little
fried, put in the pieces of rabbit, which sauté of a light brown color,
moving them round occasionally with a wooden spoon; then add a good
tablespoonful of flour, working it well in, moisten with a pint of
water, season with a little pepper and salt, and when beginning to
simmer, skim off all the fat, and add thirty button onions, a few
blanched mushrooms, and a little brown gravy or coloring; let simmer a
quarter of an hour longer, when take out the rabbit, which dress upon
your dish; reduce the sauce until it adheres to the back of the spoon,
when pour it over the rabbit and serve.


488. _Compote of Pigeons._--Put a quarter of a pound of lean bacon cut
into small dice into a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, and fry a
few seconds over the fire, then have three pigeons trussed, with their
legs turned inside, which place in the stewpan breast downwards, setting
them over the fire until of a light brown color, moving them round
occasionally; add a tablespoonful of flour, which work well in with a
wooden spoon, until becoming browned, when moisten with a pint of water,
add a good bunch of parsley, with a bay-leaf, and about thirty button
onions, season with a little pepper and salt, let the whole simmer three
quarters of an hour, keeping it well skimmed, then dress the pigeons
upon a dish with the bacon and onions round, reduce the sauce to a
proper consistency, take out the parsley and bay-leaf, sauce over and
serve.


489. _Stewed Pigeon with Peas._--Cook the pigeons precisely as described
in the last, but omitting the onions and bay-leaf, and adding a quart of
fresh green peas; when done, dress the pigeons in a dish, pour the sauce
and peas over and serve.


490. _Hot Lamb Pie (raised)._--To make this an oval, a tin or copper pie
mould would be required, which you would choose of a size most generally
useful. Butter the interior of the mould, which stand upon a
baking-sheet, then make the following paste: put a quarter of a pound of
butter and the same of chopped suet into a stewpan, with half a pint of
water, and let the whole boil together one minute, when strain it
through a sieve into a basin containing two pounds of flour, mixing it
first with a spoon, and when cool enough with the hand, until forming a
smooth paste; when partly cold roll it out into a sheet half an inch in
thickness, with which line the mould, pressing the paste evenly at all
parts; have ready cut sufficient small lamb chops from the loin, neatly
cut away the bones, and lay them round the interior of the pie
alternately with slices of raw potatoes (a quarter of an inch in
thickness), season rather highly as you proceed, with pepper, salt,
chopped onions, and parsley; make a neat cover with the trimmings of the
paste, and bake it rather better than two hours in a moderate oven; when
done lift the cover, pour out as much of the fat as possible, add a
little gravy and serve.

491. _Other various Pies._--Hot raised pies may also be made with mutton
by following the above directions. They are also very good made with
fillet of beef cut into thin slices of the size of the lamb chops, or of
rump steak, by laying a piece at the bottom, seasoning and filling
alternately with potatoes and the meat; veal and ham pies are also
excellent, but the potatoes in them had better be omitted, the veal
however, seasoned and dipped in flour. Pies may also be made with veal
sweetbreads and ham, but then about three parts of a pint of white
sauce should be poured in after the pie is baked. Fowls or rabbits may
likewise be cut into joints, and put into a stewpan, with a piece of
butter, previously well seasoning them with pepper, salt, and chopped
eschalots; cover the stewpan close, and leave it twenty minutes over a
slow fire, when add a pint of white sauce, and simmer ten minutes
longer, when cold build them up in the interior of the pie, which cover
and bake an hour in a warm oven. Pies of the above description can of
course be made of any size, either large enough for a family meal, or
very small and round, for a corner dish for a dinner party; most people
who are in the habit of making them, keep two different-sized moulds for
the purpose.


492. _Rump Steak Pie._--Procure two pounds of rumpsteaks, which cut into
thinnish slices, and season well with pepper and salt, dip each piece
into flour, and lay them in a small pie-dish, finishing the top in the
form of a dome; add a wineglassful of water, then have ready half a
pound of half-puff paste, cut off a small piece, which roll into a band,
and lay round the edge of the dish, having previously wetted it with a
paste-brush, dipped in water, then roll out the remainder of the paste
to about the size of the dish, damp the band of paste upon the dish, and
lay the other piece over, make a hole with a knife at the top, press the
edges evenly down with your thumbs, trim the pie round with a knife, egg
over the top with a paste-brush, and ornament it with the trimmings of
the paste, according to fancy: bake it rather better than an hour in a
moderate oven, and serve either hot or cold.


493. _Veal and Ham Pie._--Cut about a pound and a half of veal into thin
slices, as also a quarter of a pound of cooked ham; season the veal
rather highly with white pepper and salt, with which cover the bottom of
the dish, then lay over a few slices of ham, then the remainder of the
veal, finishing with the remainder of the ham, add a wineglassful of
water, and cover and bake as directed for the beefsteak pie: a bay will
be an improvement.


494. _Mutton pie._--Procure the chumps of three loins of mutton, from
which cut the meat in moderately thin slices, put a layer at the bottom
of the dish, which season well with chopped parsley, eschalots, pepper,
and salt; then put a layer of slices of raw potatoes, and again a layer
of mutton, seasoning as before, proceeding thus to the top, which form
in a dome, finishing with mutton, cover with paste, and bake as directed
for rumpsteak pie.


495. _Another method._--Cut six chops from a loin of mutton, from which
trim as much of the fat as possible: season them well with salt and
pepper, and lay them round in your pie-dish, the thick part uppermost,
put two onions, in slices, in the centre, over which lay four
middling-sized potatoes, each cut in halves, pour in a wineglassful of
water, cover with paste, and bake as the last.


496. _Lamb Pie._--Cut a small neck of lamb into chops, which must not be
too fat, season them lightly with pepper and salt, and lay them in your
pie-dish, with a few new potatoes in slices, pour in a little water,
then cover and bake as directed for rumpsteak pie.


497. _Chicken Pie._--Cut up a nice plump chicken into joints, which lay
upon a dish, and season lightly with chopped parsley, white pepper, and
salt, then lay the back, cut into three pieces, at the bottom of a
pie-dish, with the two legs on either side; have half a pound of cooked
ham or bacon in slices, a layer of which cover over, then lay in the two
wings, and over them the breast, cut into two pieces, which, with the
remainder of the ham or bacon, form into a dome in the middle, pour half
a pint of white sauce over, if handy, or a little broth or water, cover
with paste, and bake as directed for the last. If no white sauce, dip
each piece lightly in flour.


498. _Rabbit Pie._--Cut a nice rabbit into joints, splitting the head in
halves, and lay them in lukewarm water half an hour, to disgorge, then
dry them upon a cloth, season well with pepper, salt, chopped eschalots,
parsley, two bay-leaves, and a spoonful of flour; have also three
quarters of a pound of uncooked streaked bacon, cut into square pieces
the size of walnuts, build up the pieces of rabbit and bacon together,
in a pie-dish, commencing with the worst pieces, and forming a dome;
pour in a little water, cover with paste, and bake as directed for
rumpsteak pie.


499. _Pigeon Pie._--Line the bottom of a pie-dish with a pound of
rumpsteak, cut into slices not too thin, seasoned with a little salt,
pepper, and cayenne, and dipped into flour; have ready picked and drawn
a couple of pigeons, cut off the feet, turn the legs in, fold up the
pinions of the wings, and lay them breast to breast upon the meat, have
the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, which put at the sides, sprinkle a
little pepper and salt over the pigeons, lay a bay-leaf upon the top,
pour in a little water, cover with paste, stick the feet in the top, and
bake as directed for the last.


500. _Partridge Pie._--Line the bottom of a pie-dish with slices of
veal, cut moderately thick, and rather lightly seasoned with white
pepper and salt; have ready picked, drawn, and trussed a couple of young
partridges, pour one glass of sherry over the veal, and lay in the
partridges breast to breast, laying a piece of fat bacon over each,
cover with paste, sticking the feet of the partridges in the top of the
pie, and bake as before.


501. _Grouse Pie._--Roast, very underdone, a couple of nice plump
grouse; when cold, cut into joints, being the two wings, two legs, and
the breasts into two pieces each, season them lightly, and lay them in a
pie-dish, building them to form a dome, then break up the back-bone and
other trimmings, which put into a stewpan, with a glass of sherry, a
bay-leaf, an onion in slices, a few sprigs of parsley, three or four
whole allspice, set the stewpan over the fire a few minutes until the
wine boils, when add half a pint of brown sauce, and half a pint of
broth, stir it over a fire until again reduced to half a pint, when
strain it through a sieve, over the grouse; when quite cold cover with
paste, as directed for rumpsteak pie, and bake in a warm oven; about
half an hour would be sufficient, as the paste requires to be laid on
thinner, the contents of the pie having been previously cooked.

     Pies may be made from the remains of any poultry or game, in the
     same manner as here described; only, if poultry, use white sauce
     instead of brown, and omit the wine. If no sauce, roll each piece
     in flour, and make only the gravy, which place in it.

     The remains of any joint of meat may likewise be served in a pie,
     by cutting the meat in slices, well seasoning, laying them in a
     pie-dish, and pouring half a pint of sharp sauce over; or use
     broth, or even water highly seasoned.


502. _Sea Pie._--Put into a stewpan two pounds of beefsteak, season it
with pepper and salt, a small bit of celery chopped up, or a pinch of
ground celery seed, a pinch of pounded basil, a teaspoonful of chopped
parsley, a small onion cut in slices; put on this six larks trussed for
roasting, then make a piece of paste with suet, about one inch thick,
and round like the stewpan; put half a pint of water or Hock in the
stewpan, and cover the larks with the paste, pressing it against the
sides of the stewpan; simmer for one hour, and serve, by putting a knife
round the sides of the stewpan to detach the paste, and turn it over on
a dish.


503. _Eel Pie._--Skin and cleanse three good-sized eels, which cut into
pieces about two inches in length, put a good-sized bunch of parsley,
thyme, and three bay-leaves, all tied together, into a stewpan, with an
onion, into which you have stuck six cloves, a glass of port wine, and a
pint of broth, lay in the pieces of eels, and set them upon the fire to
simmer for ten minutes, when take them out, laying them upon a cloth to
drain, skim off all the fat from the stock the eels were cooked in, to
which add rather more than half a pint of brown sauce, let the whole
boil until reduced to three parts of a pint, when dress the pieces of
eels up in a pie-dish, strain the sauce over through a sieve, and when
cold, cover with paste as directed for rumpsteak pie, and bake about an
hour in a moderate oven, serve it hot. If for a small pie, they may be
used raw, and season accordingly, after having rolled each piece in
flour.


504. _Beefsteak Pudding._--Put a pound of flour upon a dresser, with
which mix half a pound of beef suet, very finely chopped, make a hole in
the middle, into which put a teaspoonful of salt, and sufficient water
to form a rather stiffish paste, mix it well together, using a little
more flour to dry it and prevent its sticking; then lightly butter the
interior of a round-bottomed pudding-basin, roll out two thirds of the
paste to half an inch in thickness, with which line the basin; have
ready cut into slices, about the size of the palm of the hand and a
quarter of an inch in thickness, two pounds of rumpsteak, with a little
of the fat included, lay them upon a dish; season with two teaspoonfuls
of salt, and one of black pepper, sprinkle a little flour over, move
them about a little until each piece is well covered with flour and
seasoning; then lay them within the paste, also putting in whatever
seasoning may remain upon the dish, pour a gill of water over,
moistening the edges of the paste; then roll out the remainder of the
paste to form a lid, which place over, pressing it down with the thumb,
then tie the basin in a pudding-cloth, and put it into a saucepan
containing about a gallon of boiling water, and keep continually boiling
for nearly two hours, adding a little more water occasionally, to keep
up the quantity; then take it up, untie the cloth, run a sharp-pointed
knife into the pudding, and if the meat feels tender, it is done (if
not, it will require more boiling), turn it over upon your dish, lift
the basin carefully from it, and serve, without opening the pudding to
add gravy, as many persons do, for a pudding made as above will be full
of gravy when cut at table.


505. _Mutton Pudding._--Line a pudding-basin with paste, as directed in
the last; then have ready cut into slices the meat from two loin-chumps
of mutton, which lay upon a dish, and season with a teaspoonful of
chopped onions, the same of chopped parsley, rather more than half that
quantity of black pepper, and salt in proportion; then put a layer of
meat into the pudding, then a layer of raw potatoes cut into slices,
proceeding thus until you have filled it up, but finishing with meat,
cover it up as in the last, likewise tie it in a napkin, and boil, but
rather better than two hours would be sufficient; serve as before
directed.


506. _Lamb Pudding._--If convenient, procure the entire ribs of lamb,
sawing off the breast almost close to the lean part of the neck; the
breast may be cooked as directed (No. 334); cut the neck into rather
thin cutlets, which season lightly with white pepper, salt, and a little
chopped parsley and onions: you have previously lined a pudding-basin
with paste as before, fill it with the meat thus prepared, intermixing a
few new potatoes cut in slices, finish the pudding, boil, and serve as
before directed.


507. _Veal Pudding._--Cut two pounds of veal from any part of the leg
into slices, about the size of the palm of the hand and a quarter of an
inch in thickness, put two ounces of butter into a frying-pan, and when
melted lay in the veal, and a few slices of streaked bacon, season the
whole with pepper and a little salt, add one bay-leaf, and a few sprigs
of thyme; place the pan over a slow fire, sauté the veal gently for a
quarter of an hour; then take it from the fire, and leave it in the pan
until cold, then have a pudding-basin lined with paste as before, lay in
the veal and bacon, pouring the gravy over, cover, and boil as before,
but an hour would be sufficient.


508. _Pork Pudding._--Line a pudding-basin with paste as before, and
spread three quarters of a pound of sausage-meat of an equal thickness
over the interior, have a pound and a half of lean pork, from the leg if
possible, cut into square pieces of the size of walnuts, which season
rather highly with pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, and
half that quantity of dried sage; put the meat into the centre of the
pudding, cover over with a quarter of a pound more sausage-meat, over
which put on the cover of paste, tie it in a cloth, and boil two hours
and a half, as directed for beefsteak pudding.


509. _Kidney Pudding._--Procure one ox or eight mutton kidneys, which
cut into slices the thickness of half-a-crown piece; lay them upon a
dish, seasoning well with black pepper and salt, and shaking one ounce
of flour over, mix all well together, to absorb the flour and seasoning;
then have a pudding-basin, lined as directed for beefsteak pudding,
finish, boil, and serve as there directed.

A pudding made with one pound of steak and a beef kidney is also very
excellent, as is likewise a beefsteak pudding with two dozen of oysters
(previously blanched and bearded) added.


510. _Rabbit Pudding._--Cut a rabbit up in joints (splitting the head in
halves), and lay them in a basin of lukewarm water an hour, to disgorge;
line a pudding-basin with paste as directed for rumpsteak pudding, dry
the pieces of rabbit upon a cloth, and lay them in the pudding with half
a pound of streaked bacon, cut into square pieces, and seasoning rather
highly with chopped eschalots, salt, pepper, and chopped parsley; cover,
tie it in a cloth, boil it two hours, and serve as before directed.


511. _Suet Pudding._--Put a pound of sifted flour in a basin, with half
a pound of beef suet finely chopped, add two eggs, with a pinch of salt,
and a quarter of a pint of water, beat well together with a wooden
spoon, making a rather thick batter, flour a pudding-cloth, which lay in
a small, round-bottomed basin, pour in the mixture, tie the cloth
tightly, and put the pudding in to boil, with a joint of salt beef, if
you have one, to serve the pudding with, or if not, in boiling water; an
hour and a quarter would be sufficient to cook it; when done, untie the
cloth, turn the pudding over upon your dish, and serve very hot.


512. _Yorkshire Pudding._--Put six tablespoonfuls of flour into a basin,
with six eggs, a pinch of salt, and a quarter of a pint of milk, mix
well together with a wooden spoon, adding the remaining three quarters
of a pint of milk by degrees; you have previously set a shallow tin dish
under a piece of roasting beef before the fire; an hour before serving
pour in the batter, leaving it under the meat until quite set and rather
browned upon the top, when turn the pudding over upon the dish you
intend serving it upon, and again place it before the fire until the
other side is browned, when it is ready to serve with the meat.

This pudding is also very excellent baked under a small piece of beef of
about five or six pounds. It is also frequently baked beneath a shoulder
of mutton; also baked in an oven separate (with a few spoonfuls of gravy
added), if the fire is not large enough.


513. _Toad in a Hole._--Make a batter as directed for the Yorkshire
pudding, but with the addition of a spoonful more flour and six ounces
of chopped beef suet; butter a rather deep baking-dish, into which pour
the batter, lay a solid piece of lean gravy beef, about three pounds, in
the centre, and bake it an hour and a half in a hot oven.

Another method is to cut up about three pounds of rump-steaks into about
six pieces, and putting them in the batter at various distances apart,
but the former method is most common.

Any remains of cooked beef, veal, mutton, pork, roasted or boiled, salt
or fresh, or game and fowl, cut in pieces, and seasoned to taste, may be
used in this dish, by adding it to the batter when in the dish.


514. _Pease Pudding._--Tie a pint of split peas in a cloth, leaving them
room to swell, but not more; put them into a stewpan of cold water,
where let them boil nearly half an hour until tender, but not at all
watery (which they would not be if allowed only sufficient room to
swell, and no more); then turn them out of the cloth, rub them through a
hair sieve into a basin, after which add a quarter of a pound of butter,
season with a little white pepper and salt, and mix all well together,
with three yolks and one whole egg; lightly flour a pudding-cloth, which
lay in a small round-bottomed basin, pour in the mixture, tie up the
cloth, and put the pudding to boil for an hour in a saucepan of boiling
water; when done, turn it from the cloth upon a dish, and serve with any
joint of boiled pork.


515. _Fowl Pillau._--Put one pound of the best Patna rice into a
frying-pan with two ounces of butter, which keep moving over a slow
fire, until the rice is lightly browned; then have ready a fowl trussed
as for boiling, which put into a stewpan, with five pints of good broth,
pound in a mortar about forty cardamom seeds with the husks, half an
ounce of coriander seeds, and sufficient cloves, allspice, mace,
cinnamon, and peppercorns, to make two ounces in the aggregate, which
tie up tightly in a cloth, and put into the stewpan with the fowl, let
it boil slowly until the fowl is nearly done; then add the rice, which
let stew until quite tender and almost dry; have ready four onions,
which cut into slices the thickness of half-crown pieces, sprinkle over
with flour, and fry, without breaking them, of a nice brown color, have
also six thin slices of bacon, curled and grilled, and two eggs boiled
hard; then lay the fowl upon your dish, which cover over with the rice,
forming a pyramid, garnish with the bacon, fried onions, and the
hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, and serve very hot.

The bag of spice must be preserved, as it will answer the same purpose
half a dozen times.

Fowl pillaus are frequently served with two ounces of Malaga raisins,
which are added at the same time and stewed with the rice.


516. _Mutton Pillau._--Trim a neck of mutton, by sawing off the tips of
the ribs and taking away the chine-bone; then lay it in a stewpan, with
a bag of spice as in the last, and cover with three quarts of stock, let
it simmer very gently two hours; then take out the mutton, which keep
hot upon a dish, skim off all the fat from the stock it was boiled in,
to which add a pound of Patna rice, which stew until tender and very
dry: then lay it over the mutton, garnish with fried onions, and
hard-boiled eggs, as in the last, and serve very hot.


517. _Chicken Curry._--Cut up a chicken into ten pieces, that is, two
wings, two pieces of the breast, two of the back, and each leg divided
into two pieces at the joints; then cut up a middling-sized onion into
very small dice, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter and a
very small piece of garlic, stir them over the fire until sautéd well;
then add two teaspoonfuls of curry powder and one of curry paste, which
well mix in; then add half a pint of good broth, let it boil up; then
lay in the pieces of chicken, cover it over, and put to stew very gently
for half an hour, stirring it round occasionally, if getting too dry add
a little more broth (or water); when done, the flesh should part easily
from the bones, and the sauce should adhere rather thickly; season with
the juice of half a lemon and a pinch of salt, and serve, with plain
boiled rice, upon a separate dish.

Ducklings can be cooked in the same way.


518. _Chicken Curry with Paste._--Cut a chicken up as described in the
last, which put into a stewpan, with two ounces of clarified butter, put
it over the fire, stirring occasionally until the pieces of the chicken
are lightly browned; then pour off the butter and fat from the chicken,
add three teaspoonfuls of curry paste and a pint of good broth, mix all
well together, place the stewpan again upon the fire, stewing its
contents slowly for about twenty minutes, when serve, as directed in the
last.


519. _Rabbit Curry._--Cut up a rabbit into smallish pieces, splitting
the head in halves, cut up two large onions and one apple into very
small dice, which fry in a stewpan with two ounces of butter; when
nicely browned, add a good tablespoonful of curry powder, a teaspoonful
of curry paste, half one of flour, and a pint of stock, mix well
together, then put in the rabbit, with half a pound of streaked bacon,
cut into square pieces the size of filberts, let the whole stew very
gently upon a very slow fire (or put the stewpan closely covered down
into a warm oven) three quarters of an hour; when done, which you may
ascertain by trying with the point of a knife if the flesh will leave
the bone easily, pour off as much of the fat as possible, and turn it
out upon your dish; serve with rice separately.

The curry sauce should be sufficiently thick to envelop each piece of
the rabbit.


520. _Veal Curry._--Cut up about two pounds of lean veal into small
square pieces, half the size of walnuts, then put a large onion cut into
small dice in a stewpan, with a clove of garlic and one apple cut into
slices, and one ounce of butter; keep them stirred over a moderate fire
until lightly browned, when stir in a good tablespoonful of mild curry
powder, half one of flour, mix well, then add a pint of water, let it
just boil up, put in the veal, which stir round two or three times, to
mix with the curry, and put the stewpan over a slow fire, or in a warm
oven for an hour and a half; when done (which you may ascertain by
pressing a piece between the finger and thumb, if done it would be quite
tender and separate), add the juice of a lemon and a little salt, stir
the whole round three or four times very gently, to mix, and turn it
out upon your dish, serve with rice separately.

Should you require a veal curry made in less time, the better plan would
be to sauté the veal in butter previously, then putting it with its own
gravy to the curry, and boiling the whole gently a quarter of an hour.

To make a veal curry with curry paste, sauté the veal in butter; when
becoming slightly browned, add a good tablespoonful of the paste, with
half a pint of water, leave it to stew about half an hour, when it will
be ready to serve.

Beef, mutton, lamb, and pork curries are made precisely the same as
directed for veal curries.


521. _Breast of Veal Curry._--Procure a piece of breast of veal about
three pounds in weight, with the bones and tendons attached, which chop
into about twenty square pieces, and put into a stewpan, with two quarts
of water, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves; let it simmer
three hours at the corner of the fire, skimming off all the fat, then
take out the meat and strain the broth into a basin; in another stewpan
have a middling-sized onion (cut into small dice), with an ounce of
butter, sauté them rather brown, then add a good tablespoonful of curry
powder, mix well, and pour in the broth, then add the meat, which let
stew in the curry one hour longer, until the meat is very tender, and
the sauce becomes rather thick; pour off as much fat as possible, season
with a little salt and the juice of a lemon, which stir in very gently,
take the meat out as whole as possible, dress them upon your dish, pour
the sauce over and serve; rice separately.


522. _Breast of Mutton Curry._--Cut up a breast of mutton, bones and
all, into pieces about two inches in length and one in width, which put
into a stewpan with two quarts of water, to simmer for about two hours,
when proceed precisely as directed in the last.


523. _Breast of Lamb Curry_ is made very similar to the preceding, and
is considered a great treat to those who are fond of curries. Curry
paste may be used to advantage, either by itself, or mixed equally with
the powder. There being a great quantity of fat in the breast, great
care should be taken to remove it from the curry every available
opportunity.


524. _Lamb's Head Curry._--Procure a lamb's head, which split in halves,
break the bones at the nostrils, and put into lukewarm water an hour to
disgorge, previously taking out the brains, which likewise disgorge in
the water, then put the head into a stewpan well covered with water, let
it boil two hours, when take it out, separate the bones from the flesh,
which cut into small pieces. In another stewpan have a middling-sized
onion cut into small dice, which set upon the fire, adding two ounces of
butter, and sauté them a light brown color, when add a tablespoonful of
curry powder, and half that quantity of curry paste, mix well together,
then put in the pieces of head with half a pint of broth, and stew
gently for half an hour. Whilst the curry is stewing, take the brains
from the water, and put them into a stewpan of boiling water, let simmer
five minutes, after which chop very fine, and put them into a basin,
with a good handful of bread-crumbs, a little white pepper, salt, and
chopped parsley, mix well together with an egg, and form it into six
little round balls, which egg and bread-crumb twice over, and fry in a
little hot lard, of a very light brown color, then dress the curry upon
a dish, lay the brain croquets round, and serve with rice separately.


525. _Calf's Head Curry_ is usually made with the remains left from a
previous dinner; if about two pounds of meat remaining upon the bone,
cut it whilst cold into thin slices, then cut two onions and two apples
into small dice, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter and
half a clove of garlic cut in slices, stir with a wooden spoon over the
fire until sautéd nice and brown, when add a tablespoonful of curry
powder, half one of flour, mix well, then pour in a pint of broth, add a
little salt, and boil twenty minutes, keeping it well stirred; then put
in the calf's head, and let it remain upon the fire until quite hot
through; add the juice of half a lemon, which stir in very gently,
without breaking the meat, dress it upon a dish, and serve with rice
separately. Curry sauce may be passed through a sieve previously to
putting the head in.


526. _Calf's Feet Curry._--After boiling a set of feet for calf's feet
jelly, the feet may be served in curry as follows: separate the meat
from the bones whilst the feet are warm; when cold, cut them into small
square pieces, and proceed exactly as in the last; or use curry sauce.


527. _Calf's Tail Curry._--Cut up calves' tails into joints, which put
into a stewpan, with a small piece of lean ham and a bunch of parsley,
thyme, and bay-leaf; cover them with three pints of cold water, and let
simmer about two hours, until tender, keeping them well skimmed; when
done, strain the stock through a hair sieve into a basin, and put the
tails upon a plate; then proceed as directed for calf's head curry, but
using the stock from the tails, and reducing the curry until rather
thickish before adding the tails.


528. _Ox Tail Curry_ is made precisely as in the last, but one tail
would be sufficient, and it would require double the time to stew; or
use curry sauce.


529. _Tripe Curry._--Cut two large onions into very small dice, which
put into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, and stir over the fire
until brown, when well mix in a tablespoonful of curry powder and half
that quantity of paste; add a pint of broth, and two pounds of double
tripe cut into strips; let the whole stew very slowly one hour, keeping
it well skimmed, when dress it upon a dish, and serve with rice
separately.


530. _Lobster Curry._--Procure a large boiled lobster, break the shell,
and take out the flesh in as large pieces as possible, cutting the tail
into about six pieces, and the claws of a proportionate size; then cut
two onions into small slices, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of
butter, fry them of a light yellow color, then mix in a good
tablespoonful of mild curry paste (or half powder and half paste), and
add a pint of good broth, then boil it up over the fire until becoming a
little thickish, when put in the lobster, stir the whole round, then
cover the stewpan closely, and put it into a moderate oven half an
hour, by which time the curry would be of a proper consistency, and the
lobster very delicately tender, add the juice of half a lemon, and serve
with rice separately. If no oven it may be very gradually stewed over a
slow fire, in which case it might want moistening occasionally.


531. _Crab Curry._--Prepare the onions and curry precisely as in the
last, but adding the flesh of a crab (broken small) instead of a
lobster; let it stew over the fire about twenty minutes, add the juice
of half a lemon, and serve as before.


532. _Oyster Curry._--Blanch and beard six dozen of oysters, leaving the
oysters in their own liquor; then cut two middling-sized onions into
small dice, and sauté it in a stewpan, with an ounce of butter; when
done, mix in two teaspoonfuls of curry powder and one of curry paste,
then add the oysters with their liquor, and keep stirring over the fire
until the oysters become enveloped in a thick sauce, when turn them out
upon your dish, and serve with rice separately.


533. _Prawn Curry._--Procure sufficient prawns to weigh about a pound;
when picked, put half of a small onion chopped very fine into a stewpan,
with half an ounce of butter, stir them over the fire until becoming
rather yellowish; then add two teaspoonfuls of mild but rather piquant
curry paste, mixing the whole gradually with half a pint of good broth;
then put in the prawns, and stew gently about a quarter of an hour, when
they will be ready to serve; rice separate.

If no curry paste, powder may be used, but the paste is far preferable.

Shrimps may also be curried in the same way, but they are in general so
very salt.


534. _Salmon Curry._--Have two slices of salmon, weighing about a pound
each, which cut into pieces of the size of walnuts, cut up two
middling-sized onions, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter
and a clove of garlic cut in thin slices, stir over the fire until
becoming rather yellowish; then add a tablespoonful of curry powder and
half that quantity of curry paste, mix all well together with a pint of
good broth, put in the salmon, which stew about half an hour, pour off
as much of the oil as possible; if too dry, moisten with a little more
broth, mixing it gently, and serve as before.

Salmon curry may also be made with the remains left from a previous
dinner, in which case reduce the curry sauce until rather thick before
putting in the salmon, which only requires to be made hot in it.

The remains of a turbot might also be curried in the same way, and also
any kind of fish.


535. _Fillet of Sole Curry._--Fillet two nice soles, and cut each fillet
into five pieces (slantwise); then in a stewpan have a small onion
chopped fine and fried, to which add a tablespoonful of curry paste, or
an equal quantity of paste and powder; when well mixed, put in the
fillets of soles, with just sufficient broth to cover them; let it boil
rather fast for ten minutes, when the sauce will become sufficiently
thick to envelop the fish, season with the juice of half a lemon, and
serve with rice separately.

Fillets of haddocks or whitings are curried precisely the same.


536. _Skate Curry._--Plain boil about two pounds of skate with a piece
of the liver, which put upon a dish without a napkin, previously well
draining off the water; whilst the fish is boiling, cut two onions in
slices, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, and fry of a
lightish brown color; then mix in a tablespoonful of curry powder with a
teaspoonful of flour, and a pint of good broth, set it upon the fire,
keeping it stirred, and when boiling, put in a good-sized apple cut into
slices, let boil until it is reduced to about half, when rub it through
a tammy or hair sieve, pour it again into a stewpan, and when hot, pour
over the fish, and serve with rice separately.




EGGS.


537. _Plain Baked Eggs._--Butter with one ounce a plated dish, or common
tart-dish, that will bear the heat of the oven; break carefully six
eggs on it, season with one pinch of pepper, half a spoonful of salt,
and add half an ounce of butter in small pieces over, put them in a
slack oven until set, and serve.


538. _Baked Eggs with Asparagus._--Cut twenty heads of sprue into small
pieces, keeping only the tender part, boil them for fifteen minutes, put
them into a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, set them on the fire
for three minutes, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar; when
done, put them in the dish you intend to serve it in, break six eggs
over, which season as above, put it into the oven until it sets, and
serve; in case the oven is not sufficiently hot, place a salamander over
the eggs.


539. _Mashed Eggs._--Break four eggs into a stewpan, with one ounce of
butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a pinch of pepper, put it on the
fire, stir continually, and as soon as delicately set, serve.

These can be served with either green peas, sprue grass, or mushrooms,
which must be stewed and prepared as if ready to serve; put some in the
stewpan with the eggs, and proceed as before. If meagre, use cream
instead of butter.


540. _Eggs with Burnt Butter._--Put into a frying-pan two ounces of
butter, which melt; as soon as it is on the point of browning, put in
the eggs, which have been previously broken in a basin, and seasoned
with pepper and salt; when well set, serve, with a teaspoonful of
vinegar over the eggs.


541. _Eggs à la Tripe._--Cut about two onions each into thin slices, put
them in a stewpan, with half an ounce of fresh butter, and set them on a
slow fire; when warmed through, put half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter
ditto of pepper, a teaspoonful of flour, a gill of milk, and a little
sugar; let it boil, put in six hard eggs cut in quarters, and serve,
after a little ebullition.


542. _Snow Eggs._--Take half a pint of milk and a little sugar, and
flavor it with orange-flower water, or any other essence, and put it in
a stewpan on the fire, having previously beaten up the whites of six
eggs to a stiff froth; if very hot weather, you must place the basin
they are in on ice, or in cold water; whilst beating, add some powdered
sugar lightly; when the milk is boiling, take the white up with a
tablespoon, and drop it, one tablespoonful at a time, in the stewpan to
poach, keeping the shape of an egg, which turn over when set; when done,
remove with a colander on to a sieve, and dress them in a crown on the
dish you intend to serve them on; when all done, beat up the yolks of
four of the eggs in a stewpan, with a little sugar and a few drops of
orange-flower water, pour part of the boiling milk out of the stewpan
into it, sufficient to make a good stiff custard, put it on the fire
until rather thick, and pour over the white, and serve either hot or
cold: the last is preferable.


543. _Eggs with Cheese._--Put into a stewpan about two ounces of grated
Parmesan, or Gruyère, or old Cheshire, with one ounce of butter, two
sprigs of parsley, two spring onions chopped up, a little grated nutmeg,
and half a glass of sherry; put it on the fire, and keep stirring until
the cheese is well melted; break six eggs in a basin, put them in the
stewpan, stir and cook them on a slow fire; when done, serve with fried
sippets of bread round. Or,


_Another way._

Put into a flat dish that will bear the oven a piece of butter the size
of a walnut, the same of grated cheese, the yolks of two eggs, some
grated cinnamon and nutmeg, mix these on the dish, put it either in the
oven or in the hot plate, or, from want of either, before the fire,
until it sets, then gently break six eggs on the dish, and cover with
grated cheese, and salamander until a nice brown, or for want of one,
keep it before the fire until it is so, and serve.


544. _Eggs in Cases._--Cut up a sheet of paper into pieces of three
inches square, turn up half an inch all around so as to form a kind of
case, they will then remain but two inches square in the inside. Take a
small piece of butter, a pinch of fine breadcrumbs, a little fine
chopped parsley, spring onions, salt, and pepper, and mix them
together, put a little into each case, then break one egg into each, put
them on a gridiron over a slow fire, and do them gently, or place them
in a dish in an oven; when well set, serve.


545. _Omelette with Herbs._--Break six eggs in a basin or stewpan, and
add to it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and one of chopped eschalot
or spring onions, half ditto of salt, and a pinch of pepper, and beat it
well up together. Put into an omelette-pan, that is, a small frying-pan
six inches in diameter, two ounces of butter, which melt, then pour in
the eggs, stir round with a spoon; as soon as it begins to set, lightly
move it to that part of the pan opposite the handle, so that it occupies
only one third, hold it so that that part of the pan is the lowest, move
with a spoon the outside edges over, and let it remain half a minute, so
that it obtains a good color, turn it over on to the dish so that the
bottom is at the top. They must not be too much done, and served very
hot. They may be served plain, or with the addition of any gravy.

Omelettes of ham, Parmesan, &c., are all made as the above, with the
addition that these articles must have been properly cooked previously,
and well chopped up, so as to mix well with the eggs, beat them up well
together, and cook in a pan the same way, or a little grated cheese may
be added. This I beg of you to practise; though simple, there is some
art in making it.




GARNITURE FOR OMELETTES.


546. _Asparagus, Peas, and Green Peas._--Put in a stewpan two spoonfuls
of plain boiled sprue-grass that has previously been cut up, add to it
half an ounce of butter, a little salt, pepper, and sugar, warm it on
the fire, moving it continually; when warm, put it with a spoon in the
centre of the omelette, turn over, and serve; the same with peas, and
add melted butter or white sauce.


547. _Oysters._--Open and blanch delicately twelve middle-sized oysters,
and put them in a stewpan with their own gravy, beard them, add a
tablespoonful of milk or cream, and give it a boil, then add half an
ounce of butter in which you have mixed a saltspoonful of flour, stir it
in without breaking the oysters, put over the centre of your omelette,
and proceed as before.


548. _Lobster._--Cut half or a small one in thin slices, put four
tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, a few drops of essence of
anchovies, and a little cayenne; put in your lobster, warm it well, and
put in the middle of the omelette, as above.


549. _Kidneys._--Cook two kidneys as No. 430; when done, serve in centre
of omelette, as above.


550. _Mushrooms._--Wash about ten small fresh mushrooms, cut in slices,
put in a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, a little salt, pepper,
and the juice of a quarter of a lemon, simmer for a few minutes on the
fire till tender; if too liquid, add a little flour, place in centre of
omelette, and proceed as above.


551. _Bacon._--Cut two ounces of good lean bacon in small dice, put in
pan to fry with the butter for one minute, then mix with the eggs
prepared as for omelette of herbs, and cook the same way.




ENTRÉES OF GAME.


552. _Broiled Pheasant._--Having drawn a pheasant, lay it upon its
breast, and pass a knife down the back-bone, upon each side, taking it
entirely out, then cut off the feet at the knuckle, break the leg and
thigh-bones, turning the leg inside, separate the breast-joint of the
wing, pressing the bird quite flat, then sauté it in a sauté-pan, with a
little lard or dripping, and when browned on both sides, and about half
done, place it upon a plate, season well with salt and pepper, egg and
bread-crumb over, and broil it upon a gridiron over a moderate fire
until sufficiently done, which would be in about a quarter of an hour,
when serve with game, mushroom, or any piquant sauce.

The advantage of broiling or sautéing game or poultry is, that when you
are alone, you need only cook the half of any large bird at one time.

_Game Curries._--I have also made very good game curries, but not too
hot with curry, as that would entirely destroy the flavor of the game.


553. _Pheasant stewed with Cabbage._--The following is an excellent
method for dressing a pheasant which should prove to be rather old,
although a young one would be preferable. Procure a large savoy, which
cut into quarters, and well wash in salt and water, after which boil it
five minutes in plain water, then drain it quite dry, cut off the stalk,
season rather highly with pepper and salt, have ready a middling-sized
onion, and half a pound of streaky bacon, which, with the cabbage, put
into a stewpan, covering the whole with a little good broth; let it
simmer at the corner of the fire three quarters of an hour, then thrust
the pheasant (previously three parts roasted) into the cabbage, and let
them stew nearly three quarters of an hour longer, or until the stock
has reduced to glaze, and adheres thickly to the cabbage, when dress the
cabbage in a mound upon your dish, with the bacon, cut into slices,
around, and the pheasant upon the top, half way buried in the cabbage;
have a little game sauce, which pour round and serve.


554. _Joe Miller's stewed Pheasant._--Roast a pheasant as directed (No.
582), but previously dipping it into flour, and occasionally flour over
whilst roasting, thus making the exterior very crisp, and keeping it
nearly white, then put the crumbs of two French rolls into a stewpan,
with half a pint of milk, a small eschalot, a bay-leaf, an ounce of
butter, and a little pepper and salt; let the whole boil a few minutes,
when take out the eschalot and bay-leaf, place a piece of buttered toast
upon your dish, pour the above over, dress the pheasant upon the top,
and serve.


555. _Hashed Pheasant._--Should you have any remains of pheasants from a
previous day, cut them into as neat pieces as possible, then put an
ounce of butter into a stewpan, with half an ounce of flour, which stir
two or three minutes over the fire, until becoming slightly browned;
then add a glass of port wine, half a pint of water, season highly, boil
at the corner of the stove, stirring and skimming occasionally, until
sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of the spoon; then put in the
pieces of pheasant, with a little coloring, let it remain ten minutes,
at the corner of the stove, but not to boil, when dress the meat upon
your dish, pass the sauce over through a sieve, and serve.


556. _A plain Salmi of Pheasant._--Or, should you have a pheasant left
that little has been cut from, cut and trim it into neat joints, which
put into a stewpan, then in another stewpan put the bones and trimmings,
chopped up very small, with an onion in slices, a little parsley, thyme,
and bay-leaf, four peppercorns, and a glass of sherry, boil altogether
two minutes, then add three parts of a pint of brown sauce, and half a
pint of broth (if no brown sauce, add a spoonful of flour and a quart of
broth or water and some coloring); let the whole boil until reduced to
half, skimming it occasionally; place a fine hair sieve over the stewpan
containing the pieces of pheasant, through which pass the sauce, warm
altogether gently, without boiling, and when quite hot dress the pieces
neatly upon a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve with sippets of fried
or toasted bread (cut into the shape of hearts) around.

The remains of pheasant, or any other game, may also be minced and
warmed in a little of the above sauce, and served with poached eggs upon
the top, or likewise made into boudins and croquettes, as directed for
turkey.


557. _Grouse._--The Scotch method is to plain roast the grouse, dress it
upon toast, and pour plain melted butter over.

But they may be dressed in any of the ways directed for pheasants, with
the exception of being stewed with cabbage, as may be likewise every
description of black game.

558. _Stewed Partridges with Cabbage._--Have two nice partridges trussed
as for boiling, and run five or six slices of fat bacon, of the
thickness of a quill, lengthwise through the breast, but not to
protrude, and roast them fifteen minutes before a moderate fire; have
some cabbage stewed as directed for pheasant with cabbage, but stewed
nearly dry before thrusting in the partridges; keep the whole hot, but
not boiling, for about an hour; have ready two pork sausages, nicely
broiled, dress the cabbage, which must be quite dry, upon your dish in a
mound, with the partridges at the top, half buried in it, cut the bacon
in halves, placing a piece at each end, with a sausage at each side;
pour half a pint of game sauce round, and serve; good plain gravy is
also very nice.


559. _Partridge sauté with Mushrooms._--Have two young partridges, each
of which cut in halves, and lay in a convenient-sized stewpan, into
which you have previously poured two or three tablespoonfuls of salad
oil, first seasoning them lightly with a little white pepper and salt,
and a sprinkle of chopped eschalots; put a cover upon the stewpan, which
place over a moderate fire, until one side of the partridges is browned,
when turn them over, proceeding the same until browned on both sides;
then pour off part of the oil, and add half a tablespoonful of flour,
which well mix in, then add a glass of sherry, half a pint of broth, and
twenty small button mushrooms (previously blanched); let it simmer,
skimming off all the oil which rises to the surface, until the
partridges are tender, and the sauce thick enough to adhere to them;
season the sauce a little if required, dress the partridges upon a dish,
sauce over, and serve.

The remains of partridges may likewise be hashed or served in a plain
salmi as directed for pheasants.


560. _Woodcocks, à la Lucullus._--Plain roast the woodcocks as directed
in Roasts, catching their trails upon toast, upon which, when done,
dress the birds on a dish; have ready a little thick melted butter, with
which mix the yolk of an egg and a little cream, pour this over the
woodcocks, sprinkle lightly with bread-crumbs, salamander of a light
brown color, and serve with a little gravy round.


561. _Woodcock, the Sportsman's fashion._--Roast two woodcocks rather
underdone, catching their trails upon a large piece of toasted bread,
when done cut each bird into quarters, which place in a stewpan, with
the remainder of the trail cut small, a little pepper, salt, a glass of
sherry, a little chopped eschalot, the juice of half a lemon, and half a
gill of broth, let the whole simmer very gently a few minutes; dress the
pieces of woodcock rather high upon the toast, pour the sauce over, and
serve.


562. _Hashed Woodcock._--Should you have any remaining from a previous
dinner, cut each one in four (or if not whole, into neat pieces), chop
all the interior rather fine, which mix with a small piece of butter, a
spoonful of bread-crumbs, and a little chopped parsley, make six
croutons in the shape of hearts, from a piece of toasted bread, spread a
piece of the above preparation upon each, and put them in a warm oven
for a short time; hash the pieces of woodcock as directed for pheasant,
and serve with the croutons round.


563. _Snipes à la minute._--Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a
stewpan, over which lay six snipes, breasts downwards, add a spoonful of
chopped onions, the same of chopped parsley, a little grated nutmeg,
half a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of white pepper; set the
stewpan over a brisk fire for seven or ten minutes (according to the
size of the birds), stirring them round continually; then add the juice
of one lemon, two glasses of sherry, the same of broth, and a spoonful
of finely-grated crust of bread; let the whole simmer a few minutes
longer, dress the birds upon a dish, stir the sauce well together, pour
it over the snipes, and serve; a little glaze is an improvement.


564. _Plovers sauté with English Truffles._--Procure four plovers, which
lay breasts downwards in a stewpan, containing a quarter of a pound of
butter, to which add eight raw truffles, well washed, peeled, and cut
into very thin slices, two cloves, a bay-leaf, half a teaspoonful of
salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper, pass the whole ten minutes over a
sharp fire, stirring them round occasionally; then well mix in half a
tablespoonful of flour, which moisten with half a pint of broth and a
glass of white wine; let the whole simmer at the corner of the fire
twenty minutes longer, keeping it well skimmed, dress the birds upon a
dish, reduce the sauce to a proper consistency, season with a little
sugar and the juice of a lemon, and pour it over the birds; serve very
hot.


565. _Wild Duck, with Orange Sauce._--Having trussed your duck as for
roasting, rub it all over with the liver until quite red; then put it
down before a good fire to roast for twenty minutes, after which cut
eight incisions down the breast, and have ready the following
preparation: put an ounce of butter into a stewpan, with a quarter of a
saltspoonful of cayenne, the rind of an orange (free from pith,
previously cut into strips, and blanched in boiling water, and well
drained upon a sieve), and the juice of a lemon, warm all together, and
when melted, but not oily, pour over the duck, and serve.


566. _Hashed Wild Duck._--Cut up the remains of a duck or ducks into
neat pieces, and put into a stewpan with half or a tablespoonful of
flour (depending on the quantity), mix well, moisten with a glass or two
of wine, and sufficient broth or water to make a thickish sauce, season
well, add a little Harvey sauce, mushroom-catsup, a little sugar, and
cayenne pepper; let simmer, but not boil, take out the pieces, which
dress upon toast, reduce the sauce, pour over, and serve. A little
coloring may be added, if approved.


567. _Widgeons._--Rub the breast of a widgeon over with a part of the
liver, chop up the remaining part, to which add a few bread-crumbs, a
little chopped lemon-peel, chopped parsley, and an egg, with which stuff
the interior, roast nearly as long as for the wild duck before a very
sharp fire, dress upon toast on a dish, having ready the following
sauce: put half a glass of port wine into a stewpan, with a teaspoonful
of chopped eschalots, a little salt, pepper, and cayenne, boil a few
minutes, add the juice of a lemon, and two ounces of fresh butter, sauce
over, and serve. Widgeons are hashed the same as wild duck.


568. _Teal, a new method._--Procure four, draw them; then put half a
pound of butter upon a plate, with a little pepper, grated nutmeg,
parsley, a spoonful of grated crust of bread, the juice of a lemon, and
the liver of the teal, mix well together, and with it fill the interior
of the teal; cover them with slices of lemon, fold in thin slices of
bacon, then in paper, and roast twenty minutes before a sharp fire; take
off the paper, brown the bacon, dress them upon a slice of thick toast,
letting the butter from the teal run over it, and serve very hot.


569. _Teal à la sans façon._--Roast four teal quite plain, prepare a
quarter of a pound of butter as above, with the omission of the livers,
which place in a stewpan over the fire, stirring quickly, until forming
a kind of sauce, add some fillets from the pulp of a lemon, sauce over,
and serve. The remains of teal also make excellent hash.


570. _Larks à la minute._--Proceed as directed for snipes à la minute,
previously stuffing them with their livers as directed for widgeons,
adding a few mushrooms at the commencement; but do not let them stew too
quickly, or the bottom will brown and give a bad flavor to the sauce;
seven minutes are quite sufficient to stew them.


571. _Lark Pie._--Cover the bottom of a pie-dish with thin slices of
beef and fat bacon, over which lay ten or twelve larks previously rolled
in flour, stuffed as above, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter
ditto of pepper, one of chopped parsley, and one of chopped eschalots,
lay a bay-leaf over, add a gill of broth, and cover with three quarters
of a pound of half puff paste, bake one hour in a moderate oven, shake
well to make the gravy in the pie form a kind of sauce, and serve quite
hot.


572. _Jugged Hare._--Put a quarter of a pound of butter, with a pound of
bacon cut into dice, and the hare, cut into pieces, in a stewpan: set
upon a moderate fire until the pieces of hare are becoming firm, when
add six ounces of flour, mix well, and moisten with sufficient water to
cover it: add two glasses of any kind of wine, and one of vinegar,
season high with pepper and salt, let simmer until tender, keeping well
skimmed; when done, and the sauce becoming rather thick, dress upon your
dish, and serve.


573. _Jugged Hare (another way)._--Put about half a pound of butter,
with ten ounces of flour, into a stewpan, put it on the fire, and keep
stirring it round until it has a yellow tinge; then add a pound of bacon
cut in square pieces, stir it a little longer on the fire; the hare
having been previously cut up, put it into the stewpan and stir it about
until it becomes firm, when add four glasses of port wine and sufficient
water to cover it; season, and add two bay-leaves and four cloves, and
when half done, about fifty button onions, or ten large ones in slices,
a tablespoonful of brown sugar, let it simmer until it is well done and
the sauce rather thick; dress up, sauce over, and serve. If an old one,
it will take about four hours.




ROASTS--SECOND COURSE.

     These dishes consist almost always of game, which require to be
     sent up immediately they are taken from the fire, and require great
     care and attention in cooking them. In the following pages will be
     found many which are scarce and rarely seen in London, and never
     mentioned in our various cookery books; but considering that many
     of our friends reside in the country, I have written it for them.


574. _Turkey Poults._--Turkey poults, so called from being used when
about the size of a large pullet, are trussed with the legs turned at
the knuckle and the feet pressing upon the thighs, the neck is skinned
and the head fixed under the wing; roast them the same as directed for
turkeys, about twenty-five minutes or half an hour, according to their
size, and in the same modes, but they are usually served, one larded and
the other barded, with gravy and water-cresses in the dish.


575. _Roast Capon with Cresses._--Roast and serve a capon in any of the
ways directed for turkeys, roast of a nice gold color, and serve with
water-cresses round; a capon weighing five pounds requires about three
quarters of an hour to roast. Poularde au cresson, exactly as above.


576. _Roast Pullet._--For a dinner of four entrées you would require two
fowls, but not too large; truss and roast them as directed for a turkey,
judging the time required according to their size, and serve with gravy
and water-cresses; they may be larded, barded, or served in any way
mentioned in the foregoing receipts. A fowl weighing two pounds and a
half would require half an hour roasting, or three quarters of an hour,
if larger.


577. _Spring Chickens_ are served like fowls, generally plain roasted,
but they may be larded as the poularde. Be particular in tying the legs
upon paper to the spit, as directed for the turkey, as it so improves
their appearance when roasted. About twenty minutes would be sufficient
to roast them.


578. _Goslings._--A green goose roasted plain, and served with a little
gravy, is generally sent up for second courses; but if the larger ones
are used, they must be stuffed with sage and onions, but very few would
choose such a thing for a roast second course, whilst green geese in
their season are great favorites; truss them by cutting off the leg at
the knuckle, and the wing at the first pinion, fixing them at the side
with skewers to throw the breast up; a full-grown goose will take one
hour to roast, but a green one not more than half an hour.


579. _Ducklings_ make a very favorite roast in the London season; they
must have good fillets, white and plump, and require to be a little more
underdone than any other description of poultry; if too much done, the
fat catches and gives a rank flavor to the flesh, besides causing the
fillets to eat dry. They are usually served plain roasted for a second
course, yet I have served them differently upon some occasions for the
sake of variety, but it must be with a very thin sauce and one that
invigorates the palate, although they never can be better than when
served plain roasted. I shall here give one or two deviations: truss
them by twisting the legs at the knuckles and resting the feet upon the
thighs, cut the wing off at the first pinion and run a skewer through
the bird, fixing the pinion and legs with it, place them upon a spit,
and roast twenty minutes.


580. _Guinea Fowls._--These birds must be very young, for, being
naturally very dry, they are not eatable if more than twelve months old;
they are generally larded or barded, and served plain roasted, rather
well done; they are trussed like the common fowls, and require nearly
three quarters of an hour to roast.


581. _Pea Fowls._--These magnificent birds make a noble roast, and when
young are very excellent; they are larded, plain roasted, and served
with the tail stuck into the bird, which you have preserved, the head
with its feathers being left folded up in paper, and tucked under the
wing; roast about an hour and a half, take the paper from the head and
neck, dress it upon your dish with water-cresses, and the gravy and
bread-sauce separate in a boat.


     GAME (CHOICE OF).--There is no article of food that is so deceiving
     in appearance to know if it is young, tender, and good, or not, as
     game; to a person living in the country, where a member of the
     family has shot them in his day's sport or have been received as
     presents, a knowledge how to distinguish them is requisite. Young
     birds may be distinguished by the softness of their quills; females
     will eat better than males, they are more tender and juicy. Old
     pheasants are known by the length and sharpness of their spurs, in
     young ones they are short and blunt.--Old partridges before
     Christmas have light-blue legs, instead of yellow-brown.--Wild fowl
     may be known to be old from their bills and the stiffness of the
     sinews of the legs, those that have the finest plumage are the
     worst eating.--Hares and rabbits: try if the ear will easily tear
     and the jaw-bone break between the finger and the thumb, if not
     they are only fit for soup or jugging.--On receiving birds of all
     kinds, put in their mouths three or four peppercorns bruised and
     one clove of garlic, and pepper the place where shot. In case you
     receive many, tie a piece of paper to them with the date on which
     they were received.


582. _Pheasants._--At the present day there are great varieties of
these birds, which differ as much in their flavor as their plumage.
There are also a large quantity of hybrids sold in market as a genuine
pheasant, and it is impossible to know them when plucked. The flavor of
the bird will depend in a great measure on the nature of the country
where it is killed.

Have them prepared and trussed: put them about eighteen inches from the
fire for five minutes, then draw them close, and roast as quickly as
possible, rubbing them all over with a little butter, serve up with
bread-sauce separate, and good gravy under. They are also good larded,
or one larded and the other barded.


583. _Partridges._--The red-legged in this country are not so fine in
flavor as the gray; they are dressed like the pheasant, but all the time
at a very quick fire, and serve very hot from the spit; it is better to
wait a minute or two for it than to have it wait for you; dish it up
with a little made gravy with it, and bread-sauces, as above.


584. _Grouse._--These birds should be well kept, trussed like a fowl for
roasting, and served with brown gravy under, or may be dressed as
follows: truss as before, covering the breast with vine leaves and fat
bacon, which tie on; roast from half to three quarters of an hour
according to size, and serve with toast under, and melted butter over.


585. _Red Grouse, Gorcock or Moorcock--the common Moor Game
(l'Attagas)._--Trussed like a fowl for roasting, which cook quick before
a sharp fire, serve with toasted bread under.


586. _White Grouse or Ptarmigan (le Lagopède)._--They are to be trussed
like the above, and plain roasted, and served with toast under and fried
bread-crumbs, separate or dressed as follows:--Put two spoonfuls of
currant-jelly in a stewpan, with the juice of a lemon and a little salt
dissolved in it; when melted, pour over and serve.


587. _Wild Ducks (Canard Sauvage)._--The male is called the Mallard, and
the young one Flapper. Under the above title a great many birds are
sold.

They should all be cooked alike; they must be kept two or three days
before they are dressed; they are trussed by twisting each leg at the
knuckle, and resting the claws on each side of the breast, fixing them
with a skewer run through the thighs and pinions of the wings; rub the
liver over the breast, roast them before a quick fire from fifteen to
twenty minutes, baste with butter, not basting them when first put down
will keep the gravy in; one should be better done than the other, in
order to suit the taste of those at table; serve with made gravy under,
and a lemon separate.


588. _Widgeon, Whewer, or Whim (le Canard Siffleur)._--These should be
eaten fresher than a Wild Duck, trussed, dressed, and served the same;
fifteen minutes is sufficient before a good fire.


589. _Dunbird, Pochard, or Great-headed Widgeon (Pénélope, le
Millouin)._--In some parts, _Red Heads_, _Parkers_, or _Half Birds_.
These are dressed as above, but are not so good as the Widgeon.


590. _Teal (la petite Sarcelle)._--This is a delicious bird when fat,
which they generally are after a frost. They must be trussed with care
like ducklings; they will take about eight minutes to roast; serve with
gravy, water-cresses, and lemon, separate, about six on a dish; or with
sauces Nos. 141, 143.


591. _Garganey (la Sarcelle)._--These are called Summer Teal, resemble
it in shape, and are dressed the same way.


592. _Plover._--Of these there are several sorts, all of which are good
to eat at certain seasons.

They should be well kept, but not too long, trussed gently, but not
drawn, and put on a skewer, place them a little distance from a sharp
fire, with a bit of toast under to catch the trail, baste with a little
good butter, ten minutes is sufficient; dress them with toast under, and
serve with gravy separate. They may also be served barded with vine
leaves and very thin bacon.


593.--_Woodcock (la Bécasse)._--This is a most delicious bird when well
cooked; they must not be kept too long; they are fit for cooking when
they become black between the legs, and the feathers are rather loose;
truss them with the legs twisted at the knuckles, and the feet pressing
upon the thighs, bring the pinion of the wing to the thigh, having
previously skinned the neck and head; bring the beak round under the
wing, which pass through the pinions of the wings and thighs. Place four
on a skewer, tie them on a spit, and roast before a sharp fire from ten
to fifteen minutes, placing toast under to catch the trail; when done,
serve on the toast and a very little gravy: they may also be barded with
thin slices of bacon over the breast, and served with a sauce of _fumet
de gibier_.


594. _Snipes._--They are dressed in every respect like Woodcocks; and
from seven to ten minutes is sufficient. They may likewise be fried in
plenty of oil, and served with sauces Nos. 131, 143.


595. _Larks (l'Alouette)._--They are best in winter when very fat; they
are roasted plain or with a thin slice of bacon and a leaf of celery
tied over them; they require about eight minutes, and served with a
little gravy and bread-crumbs, they are also used in pies (see _Pigeon
Pie_); and may be dressed like Snipes.


596. _Quail (la Caille)._--Should be killed at least forty-eight hours
before they are wanted; they should then be plucked, singed, drawn, and
trussed by cutting off the wings at the first pinion, leaving the feet,
and fixing the pinion and the wings with a very small skewer; cover the
breast with vine leaves and a slice of fat bacon, and run a skewer
through the pinions and thighs of each: tie on a spit and roast for ten
to twelve minutes before a sharp fire. They should be served a nice gold
color in a dish with a little gravy; they may also be trussed as above,
and put into a pig's caul, and roasted and served with either sauces
Nos. 141, 601.


     597. _Rabbits._--There are two sorts, the tame and wild; the wild
     or gray inhabits the mountainous districts; has the finest flavor,
     or on those places where it can feed on thyme, geneva, or other
     aromatic herbs, or on the sea coast, where he gets the lichen or
     wild moss. It has a much darker color than the tame. The tame
     rabbit, if properly fed 21 days before killing, may be made a very
     delicate article of nourishment; it should be kept from two to four
     days. When killed it should be removed to a cold place as quick as
     possible, that the fat may set.

If old, the claws will be long and rough, the coat rough and gray hairs
mixed with it. If young, the claws and wool smooth. If stale, the flesh
will be slimy and a bluish color; if fresh, it will be stiff, and the
flesh white and dry.


598. _Hares._--One is sufficient for a roast, skin and truss it nicely,
stuff the interior with a good veal stuffing, sew it up, then put it on
the spit, rub butter over the back and shake flour over it, roast it
about forty minutes before a sharp fire, but that depends upon the size,
of course; serve them with plain gravy in the dish and currant jelly
separate. They are also served with a sauce poivrade, or sweet sauce;
they may also be larded.


599. _Leverets_ are plain roasted and do not require stuffing, nor so
long roasting, being smaller; they are usually served with plain gravy,
but may be served with either of the sauces mentioned in the last; you
require two for a roast. They will take from twenty-five to thirty
minutes roasting. They may be larded, for a change.


600. _Wild Fowl Sauce._--The following is a good sauce; the quantities
are given for one wild duck.

Walnut catsup one tablespoonful; the same of Harvey's or Worcestershire
sauce, the same of lemon-juice, a wine-glass of red wine, a good slice
of lemon-peel, one eschalot minced, half a saltspoonful of cayenne
pepper, one blade of mace, and a wine-glassful of gravy; boil ten
minutes, serve very hot, and pour over the bird when cut up.


601. _Fumet de Gibier Sauce._--Take the remains or bones of game (the
back-bones of grouse are best), chop them up small, put them in a
stewpan, with a glass of white wine, an onion, a small piece of carrot
and of turnip sliced, a leaf of celery, a sprig of thyme, the same of
parsley, a bay-leaf, a clove, half a blade of mace; stir over the fire
five minutes, then add a quart of brown sauce, if too thick add some
water, boil for about twenty minutes, skim, strain, and serve; a little
lemon-juice and cayenne pepper may be added if approved of.




SAVORY DISHES.


     602. _Veal and Ham Pies (raised)._--The following few dishes will
     be found extremely useful for breakfasts, luncheons, second course
     in a dinner party, or for dinner in summer, but above all for
     supper when you give an evening party.

     Having found a great difficulty in raising the crust for a pie with
     my hands, I purchased for a trifle a tin pie-mould, by the use of
     which the process is more simple, and the pie retains its shape
     whilst baking, and secures the gravy, much better.

Well wipe and butter the interior of the mould, then have ready two
pounds of pâte fine, rather firm than otherwise, two thirds of which
roll out to fit the mould, press it evenly over the interior, raising
the paste half an inch above the edge of the mould, you have previously
prepared six pounds of veal, cut from the fillet, as follows: cut four
pounds into pieces an inch square, and as nearly as possible to the
length of the pie; with the remainder make some forcemeat (see Receipt);
then run eight pieces of fat bacon, each two inches in length, and a
quarter of an inch square, through each piece of veal; have also two
pounds of lean bacon, cut into pieces of nearly the same size as the
veal, then put a quarter of a pound of butter into a frying-pan, and
when melted over the fire, lay in the veal and bacon, season rather
highly with a teaspoonful of salt, the same of pepper, half that
quantity of grated nutmeg, and a tablespoonful each of chopped onion and
parsley, sauté the whole a quarter of an hour, occasionally turning the
meat, until getting of a nice color, and the bottom of the pan is
covered with a thickish glaze; then line the interior of the pie with
some of the forcemeat, to the thickness of half an inch, after which lay
three pieces of veal at the bottom with two of the ham, alternately,
which cover over with more forcemeat, to about an inch in thickness,
then more veal and bacon, with forcemeat, again proceeding thus until
full, finishing with the forcemeat, forming a dome about an inch above
the edge of the paste, and lay a pat of butter with a bay-leaf at the
top, then mould the remainder of the paste into a ball, which roll to
the size of the top of the pie, wet the edges with a little egg, lay on
the cover, which press down with the thumbs, working the edge up
gracefully with the thumb and forefinger, to about an inch above the top
of the mould, cutting some of the paste away where too thick, and crimp
the extreme edge with a pair of paste nippers; then have ready half a
pound of puff paste, which roll to about the thickness of about a
quarter of an inch, from which cut a piece the size and form of the dome
of the pie, upon which place it to form a lid (previously wetting the
top with a little water), press it down lightly, egg over with a
paste-brush, edges as well, make a small hole with a knife at the top,
and carve any design upon the puff paste according to fancy; tie a band
of buttered paper round the mould, an inch above the pie, put it into a
moderate oven to bake about two hours, but to be certain if done, run a
pointed knife or trussing needle into the centre, and if it feels tender
it is sufficiently baked.

     Then take it from the oven, and pour in a gill of strong gravy, in
     which you have dissolved a little isinglass (especially if in
     summer); when cold, take it from the mould (which opens at one end
     by drawing out a pin), and serve upon a napkin, garnished round
     with parsley. To carve, cut it into slices, the whole breadth of
     the pie and half an inch in thickness.

     Such a pie as above would weigh four pounds when baked; but should
     you require a smaller one, diminish the proportions accordingly. If
     no puff paste, the top might be ornamented with a few leaves from
     the trimmings of the other paste. I have given you the above
     receipt very minutely, as the above applies to every description of
     raised pie, the difference only being its contents.


603. _Raised Pie of Fowls._--Make the paste and forcemeat as in the
last, but instead of veal and ham, bone a young fowl as directed for
galantine, which lay flat upon a clean cloth, breast downwards, season
the interior with a little pepper, salt, and chopped onions; spread a
layer of forcemeat over, half an inch in thickness, have ten pieces of
veal of the thickness of your finger, and the same length as the fowl,
and the same number of pieces of fat bacon, lay half of the veal and
bacon alternately upon the fowl, well seasoned with pepper and salt,
cover over with more forcemeat, then another layer of veal and ham,
cover with more forcemeat, then roll the fowl over, making the skin meet
at the back, you have previously lined a raised pie-mould with paste,
then line the pie with forcemeat, half an inch in thickness, lay in the
fowl, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over, cover with the remainder
of the forcemeat, to form a dome, place a pat of butter and two
bay-leaves upon the top, finish and bake precisely as in the last: when
done, pour in a gill of gravy made from the bones of the fowl; serve
cold.


604. _Raised Pie of Pheasant._--Proceed precisely as for the pie of
fowl, but of course using a pheasant, an old one would answer the
purpose if kept long enough, but all the sinews of the legs must be
taken out in boning it, the fillets of the breast also, being very
thick, may be partly cut out and used with the veal for the interior; if
in a situation to obtain rabbits, the fillets of them might be used
instead of veal for the interior, and the legs for forcemeat.

For gravy, break up the bones of the birds, which put into a stewpan
with a glass of sherry, an onion, a few sprigs of thyme, parsley, and a
bay-leaf; let it simmer a minute over the fire, then add a pint of broth
and a little isinglass or gelatine, let the whole simmer for an hour,
giving it a nice brown color, when pass it through a sieve into a
smaller stewpan, place it again upon the fire, skim off all the fat, and
reduce it to half a pint, and when the pie is baked, pour it in, shaking
the pie a little to mix well; serve when cold.

Pies of grouse, partridges, moor fowls, &c. are made precisely in the
same manner, using one or more according to the size you wish to make
your pie. The fillets of hares are likewise excellent in pies, whilst
the legs might be jugged or converted into soup.

Capons, poulards, green geese, or ducklings may also be served in a pie
by proceeding as directed for fowls, but managing the size of the pie,
and seasoning in proportion.

Pigeon pie can also be made in the same way, but then the meat with
which the interior of the birds is filled must be cut much smaller, and
require less time in cooking.


605. _Simple method of making Pies._--Make two pounds of flour into a
paste, as No. 602, and also two pounds of forcemeat, mould three
quarters of the paste into a ball, which, with a rolling-pin, roll to
about half an inch in thickness and of an oval shape; lay half the
forcemeat in the centre, which spread over to within two inches of the
rim, having prepared and sautéd some veal and ham as directed for the
veal and ham pie, No. 602, lay them alternately upon the forcemeat, with
which again cover the meat, laying a pat of butter and a bay-leaf upon
the top; roll out the remainder of the paste of an oval shape, but much
thinner than the other, damp the paste around with a little water, and
lay the sheet of paste over, pressing it down with the finger and thumb,
then wet the top, and bring up the paste at the sides, which will stick
to it, thus forming a long square pie, with the trimmings of the paste
form a few leaves, with which decorate it according to fancy, egg the
whole well over, make a hole in the top, and bake two hours in a
moderate oven; when done, pour in the gravy, as for pies made in moulds,
and put by to serve cold. A square piece of puff paste laid upon the
top, and ornamented previous to baking, is also a great improvement.
Some gravy, as above, may of course be introduced.

     You will perceive, my dear Eloise, from this one receipt, that any
     kind of poultry, game, or meat pies, might be made in the same
     manner. To carve, they should be cut across in thin slices through
     paste and all.

     When we are alone I frequently make a very small one for luncheon,
     generally grating half a pound of sausage meat, with which I mix an
     egg and a little chopped eschalots, frying the veal or lean bacon
     or ham, and proceeding as for the larger ones; from three quarters
     of an hour to an hour would be sufficient to bake it; at times I
     make it with a pigeon, partridge, or two plovers stuffed, and
     surrounded with forcemeat, but boned: they are very excellent hot.


606. _Tureen of Game._--I bought the other day a common earthen tureen,
for which I gave ninepence; I made some forcemeat precisely the same as
for pies, boned a grouse and stuffed it as for a pheasant pie, and
seasoning the same; I then lined the tureen with the forcemeat, laid in
the bird, which I again covered with the remainder of the forcemeat, put
two pats of butter and a bay-leaf upon the top, then placed on the
cover, fixing it down with a band of common paste laid inside upon the
rim of the tureen, and baked it three hours in a moderate oven, and when
I opened it about a week afterwards it was most delicious; when served
to table the cover should be taken off, the bay-leaf removed, and a few
fresh water-cresses laid over. All sorts of game, poultry, and meat, I
have done in the same way; it is quickly done and very good and
economical, as it will keep a long time.


     607. _Galantines._--Having twice failed in the attempt to make this
     difficult dish, I was about to relinquish the idea, but having
     received a small turkey about two months back, I could not resist
     making another attempt, in which I succeeded; it is rather
     expensive, but it is a beautiful dish for supper. After having
     plucked, and singed off the hairs with a piece of lighted paper, I
     laid it breast downwards upon a clean cloth, and with a
     sharp-pointed knife boned it as follows: first, just pass the point
     of the knife through the skin, which cut open straight down the
     back-bone, then proceed to clear the flesh from the bones of the
     carcase until you come to the breast-bone, disjointing the wings
     and legs as you proceed; very carefully detach the breast-bone from
     the flesh without cutting through the skin, when you may remove the
     carcase with the interior of the turkey; then proceed to take the
     bones from the legs and wings, which is not quite so difficult; for
     the legs, scrape the first bone free from the flesh to below the
     first joint, where chop it off; cut the flesh round over the
     knuckle and pull the foot, when the remainder of the bone and
     sinews will come together; then cut off the wings at the first
     pinion, and the remaining bone is quickly scraped away.

     I can assure you I found this quite a job the first and second
     time, but it is very essential to learn, as all kinds of poultry
     and game are boned in the same manner, and to this description all
     references upon the subject must be made throughout our little
     work.

You have prepared four pounds of forcemeat, as for pies, also have long
strips of veal, ham, and fat bacon, which well season with salt, pepper,
and chopped eschalots; put a layer of the forcemeat an inch thick down
the bird, leaving two inches upon each side uncovered, then some of the
veal, bacon, and cooked ham alternately, which again cover with
forcemeat, but not exceeding half an inch in thickness (as too much
forcemeat between the meat would spoil its appearance), proceeding thus
until sufficient to fill the skin of the bird, when pull over the flaps,
and sew it up tightly with a packing needle and small string, and tie it
up in a napkin. If any, a few strips of cooked tongue, and blanched
pistachios, laid in alternately with the veal and bacon, greatly
improves its flavor and appearance.

_To cook._ Put in a stewpan with two onions, a carrot, half a head of
celery, two cloves, a blade of mace, a good bunch of parsley, thyme,
and bay-leaves, a knuckle of veal, the bones of the turkey, two calf's
feet, two ounces of salt, add sufficient water to cover the whole, and
set the stewpan upon the fire until upon the point of boiling; then draw
it to the corner, skim, and let simmer for three hours; then take it
from the fire, leaving it in the stock until nearly cold; then take it
out, remove the string from the napkin, and roll the galantine up
tighter, tying the napkin again at each end only; then place it upon a
dish, the breast part upwards, set another dish upon it, on which place
a fourteen pounds weight, which will press and cause it to cut firm;
when quite cold it is ready to serve, having removed the napkin and the
string with which it was sewed: the stock, however, should be clarified
as directed in the next receipt to make a savory jelly, which, when cold
and firm, is cut in croutons and chopped, with which the galantine
should be tastefully garnished.

     Although at first I had some difficulty with this receipt, I can
     now see the variety to which it leads, as the same process answers
     for fowls, green geese, ducklings, pheasants, grouse, partridges,
     &c., using game with the veal or pork for the interior, and stewing
     them according to their size, the bones of game being stewed with
     the stock would give the flavor to the savory jelly.


608. _To Clarify Meat Jelly._--Having passed the stock (made as in the
last) through a sieve into a basin, leave it until quite cold; then take
off all the fat very carefully, ascertain if sufficiently or too stiff
by putting a small piece upon ice; savory jelly requires to be rather
stiffer than sweet, if too stiff add a little more broth, if the
contrary, the stock must be reduced upon the fire until of the proper
consistency. When the stock is boiling, and you are perfectly assured of
its strength, have the white of four eggs with their shells in a basin,
with half a pint of water, two spoonfuls of tarragon or common vinegar,
and a glass of sherry, whisk all together; then whisk the stock quickly
a few seconds, and pour in the other ingredients whilst whisking,
continue whisking a few minutes until again upon the point but not
boiling; then take it from the fire, and taste if palatable, place a
cover upon the stewpan, which stand a little distance from the fire,
putting a few red-hot cinders upon the lid for five minutes, tie a
napkin by the four corners upon a jelly stand, through which pass the
jelly, having a basin beneath to catch it, pour the first that runs
through again into the napkin until it runs quite clear; when all
through, pour it in a plain mould or sauté-pan, which place upon ice
until the jelly is quite firm; then dip the bottom of the mould in hot
water, turn the jelly out upon a cloth, and cut it into whatever shapes
you please, to garnish and ornament any cold savory dish; the jelly when
warm might be divided, one part kept white, and the other colored with a
little brown gravy or coloring, thus enabling you to variegate in
garnishing.

Should the jelly be required to ornament tongues, hams, pies, salads, or
any article when no galantine is made; then to make the stock, cut the
veal into small pieces, and split the calf's foot in two, put a quarter
of a pound of butter in a convenient-sized stewpan, with the veal, foot,
a small piece of lean ham, and the other ingredients as directed for
galantine, pour in half a pint of water, put on the lid and stand it
upon the fire until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white
glaze; then add a gallon of water, let simmer three hours, keeping it
well skimmed; then pass and clarify as above.

The knuckle of veal and foot may be served hot with a little parsley and
butter, for a dinner previous to your party, with a little fried bacon
separately, but for my own part I prefer them plain as they leave the
stewpan.


609. _Cold Ham._--Procure a very nice but small ham of about nine pounds
in weight, which soak about ten hours in cold water, and simmer three
hours in plenty of water; when done, take out and let remain until cold;
then cut off the skin as thinly as possible, but without leaving the
marks of it; let a piece remain upon the knuckle about two inches and a
half in breadth, which either festoon or vandyke, carve the fat neatly
to form a shell, and glaze it over lightly, serve with a paper frill
upon the knuckle, and garnish with savory jelly, or if plain with a few
bunches of fresh green parsley. A handful of fresh hay put in the water
when boiling is an improvement.


610. _Cold Tongue._--Boil a nice ox tongue for three hours, and, when
done, take off all the skin, and truss it of a good shape, by placing
the root against some fixture, and running a fork through the middle of
the thin part into the board upon which it stands; when cold trim and
glaze it lightly over, cutting off the greater part of the root, place
it upon a dish, garnished either with savory jelly or fresh sprigs of
parsley.


611. _Galantine of Veal._--When I do not like to go to the expense of a
turkey or other poultry for a galantine, I procure a small breast of
veal, and take out the tendons, which I stew; take out the remaining
bones, and trim the meat to about fifteen inches in length and eight in
width, using the trimmings for a ragout; season the interior of the
breast, and proceed to lay on the forcemeat veal, ham, and bacon, as
directed for the galantine of turkey, roll and sew it up, tie in a
cloth, braise, and afterwards press it in precisely the same manner;
when quite cold, glaze it nicely and serve, garnished with savory jelly;
or, if for a large supper, six or eight small dishes might be made from
it by cutting it into thin slices crosswise, and dressing six pieces in
a border upon each dish, with a little jelly in the middle, or if no
jelly, a sprig of parsley or water-cresses; but if served in the latter
way, I introduce two ounces of blanched pistachios. When making the
galantine, of course, the dishes must be placed at a distance from each
other at various parts of the table. I have also made a galantine of a
shoulder of lamb in the same way, previously taking out the bones.


612. _Cold Fillet of Veal._--Roast braise as No. 358; when cold, trim
neatly, and garnish with jelly or parsley.

A loin of veal larded through the fleshy part with raw ham, and fat
bacon, and roasted as above, makes a very delicate dish.

A small shoulder of veal might be boned the same as a shoulder of lamb,
and made into a galantine.


613. _Ribs of Beef larded._--Choose a piece of beef with about four
ribs, and cut very long, carefully take away the bones, lard the fleshy
part through with strips of fat bacon, well seasoned with pepper, salt,
and chopped parsley; spread some veal stuffing over, and roll it round,
keeping the stuffing in the interior, tie it up with string, and roast
in vegetables as in the last article, leaving it to cool in the
vegetables; when cold, glaze and serve, garnished with sprigs of
parsley.

The beef well rubbed with garlic and well seasoned with salt and pepper,
previous to spreading on the stuffing, would be a great improvement.

I sometimes leave the bones in the meat, lard the fleshy part, and
afterwards roast it in vegetables to serve cold.


614. _Pressed Beef._--Procure a piece of brisket of beef, cut off the
bones, and salt it as directed (No. 615), but adding a little extra sal
prunella to the brine and a little spice; let the beef remain in pickle
rather better than a week: when ready to cook, roll it round, tie it in
a cloth, and let it simmer gently in plenty of water, about seven hours
if a whole one, but four hours if only the thin end; when done take it
up, remove the string, and tie the cloth at each end, put it upon a dish
with another dish over, upon which place half a hundred-weight, leaving
it until quite cold, then take the meat from the cloth, trim and glaze
it lightly, and serve garnished with a few sprigs of fresh parsley.


615. _Pickle for Beef à la Garrick._--Take twenty pounds of salt, three
quarters of a pound of saltpetre, four cakes of sal prunella, two pounds
of moist sugar, two cloves of garlic, with which rub the meat well, and
leave it rather more than a week, rubbing and turning it over every day.

This pickle is adapted for anything that is required red.


616. _Spiced Beef._--Procure a piece of thin flank of beef about ten
pounds in weight, which salt as the last for about a week; when ready,
split it open with a knife and lay it out flat upon a dresser, having
previously prepared six onions chopped very fine, with about ten sprigs
of parsley, and the leaves of ten sprigs of thyme, the same of marjoram,
two ounces of mixed spice (without cinnamon), and half an ounce of black
pepper, mix altogether, spread half upon the beef as it lays before you,
then fold it over to its original shape, lay on the remainder of the
preparation, roll it up tightly in a cloth, boil, press, and serve as
directed in the last article.


     617. _Pig's Head in imitation of Wild Boar's Head._--This you will
     say is not only a difficult dish to do, but a very expensive one.
     You are right when you are obliged to buy the pig to possess the
     head; but in a small farm-house where they kill a pig perhaps once
     a year at Christmas, the head can be very easily cut off for this
     purpose. Being on a visit some years since at a farm-house, I had
     the opportunity of having one, and trying my skill upon it; it was
     much approved of, both for its ferocious appearance, and its
     flavor, and it lasted good for three weeks.

The following is the way you should do it: procure the head with as much
of the neck attached to it as possible (the hog must have been stabbed
in the neck, not hit on the head as that would have broken the skull);
then singe it well over the flame of a fire, then wipe it with a cloth,
scrape well with a knife without scratching the skin, and place it on a
cloth upon its skull; open it very carefully without piercing the skin,
leaving no flesh whatever upon the bones; bone the neck of the pig, and
cut it into small fillets two inches long, place the head on a board and
rub it with half a pound of brown sugar, let it remain for one hour;
then place it in a salting tub, and throw over it six pounds of salt,
place in two quarts of ale, four bay-leaves, half an ounce of
peppercorns, a quarter ditto of cloves, six blades of mace, eight sliced
onions, ten sprigs of thyme, ten of winter savory, and two sliced
carrots; stir it well up, and let it remain for two hours; then pour
over the head, which turn every day for eight or ten days, rubbing it
well; when sufficiently salted, take it out and dry it on a cloth, lay
the head straight before you, skin side upwards; have ready six or eight
pounds of forcemeat, but using pork instead of veal, with which cover
the head an inch in thickness at the thinnest part; put the fillets cut
from the neck in a layer lengthwise in the head, with a long piece of
fat bacon, half an inch square, between each, sprinkle a little chopped
eschalots, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg over, and continue filling
with forcemeat and the other ingredients until you have used the whole,
finishing by covering forcemeat over; join the two cheeks together with
the above in the interior, sew it up with pack-thread, giving it the
shape of the head as much as possible, and fold it in one or two large
thin cloths, leaving the ears out and upright.

     _Braise_ as follows: Put half a pound of butter in a large
     braising-pan or stock-pot, over which put four pounds of trimmings
     of pork or knuckle of veal, eight onions, two carrots, four
     turnips, eight bay-leaves, a tablespoonful of peppercorns, twelve
     cloves, ten sprigs of thyme, ten of marjoram, four blades of mace,
     half a bottle of bucellas wine, and four calf's feet, place it upon
     a sharp fire, stirring it occasionally, until the bottom is covered
     with a clearish glaze, then add four gallons of water and half a
     pound of salt; when boiling draw it to the corner of the stove,
     skim, and put in the head, the ears uppermost, and let simmer seven
     or eight hours, or according to the size and age of the pig; but
     the better plan would be to try it with a trussing-needle; if
     tender it is done; skim the stock, in which leave the head until
     half cold, when take it out, partly undo the cloths, and tie it
     again tighter if possible, and press it in a cover or upon a
     baking-sheet with three flat pieces of wood, one at each side, with
     a weight against them, and one upon the top between the ears, on
     which place a fourteen pounds weight, let it remain all night until
     quite cold, when take it out of the cloths, detach the thread it
     was sewn up with, cut a piece an inch in thickness from behind the
     ears (from which part it must be carved in as thin slices as
     possible), it will have a marbled appearance; trim the head a
     little, setting the ears in a proper position, glaze it with a
     brownish glaze, form the eyes with a little lard and a few black
     currants round, and the tusks with paste, baking them; have some
     very fresh tulips and roses, which stick tastefully in the ears and
     some around, but leaving space to carve; garnish boldly with
     croutons, aspic, made from the stock clarified as directed (No.
     608); the meat and the calf's foot may be used for different
     dishes, see receipts.

The second one I had I boiled plainer, merely a little salt and a few
vegetables; it was very good, but not so rich in flavor as the other;
thus saving expense and trouble. They should be eaten with the following
sauce:

_Boar's Head Sauce._--Cut the rind (free from pith) of two Seville
oranges into very thin strips half an inch in length, which blanch in
boiling water, drain them upon a sieve, and put them into a basin, with
a spoonful of mixed English mustard, four of currant jelly, a little
pepper, salt (mix well together), and half a pint of good port wine.




LETTER No. XV


     DEAR ELOISE,--To you, who are so fond of lobster, the following
     receipt will, I am confident, prove most valuable. To make sure of
     its quality, buy one heavy in proportion to its size; or, perhaps,
     _entre nous_, you would prefer to wait until a friend presented you
     with one.


     LOBSTER.--This fish, which is continually before our eyes, and only
     looked upon as an article of food, is, without doubt, one of the
     wonders of the creation. A creature destitute of bones, yet
     furnished with a stomach capable of digesting the hardest
     substances, even its own shell, which it doffs once a year, when it
     is too small for it; without blood circulating through its body,
     yet strong and active. This is only one of those wonders of the
     mighty deep that we cannot but regard with awe and veneration, and
     yet the principal interest they do excite is when we visit a
     shell-fish shop to choose the largest and best for the smallest
     price. They are, without doubt, a very nourishing aliment, and are
     by many supposed to have a particular season, but which I believe
     not to be the case, as I have known them in and out of season on
     the same ground. When out of season, the pea or spawn is very
     large, and about being hatched; immediately after which it sheds
     its shell, and not its stomach, as is by many supposed. When in
     season, and fine-flavored, it should have no spawn, or very little,
     under the tail; and when its body is squeezed between the fingers
     it should not give, but be hard; its weight will also be a test, as
     it is a fish which wastes very much when kept long alive without
     food: great care must be observed in the boiling of it. A number
     should be placed at one time in a basket, and that placed in
     boiling water, adding half a pound of salt to every gallon of
     water, with a heavy weight upon it; if overdone, they eat tough and
     thready; if underdone, unwholesome and unpalatable. One weighing a
     pound will take fifteen minutes, and so on in proportion.


618. _Gratin of Lobster._--Procure a good-sized lobster, cut it in half,
detaching the head from the body; take out all the meat, and save the
four shells; cut the meat into slices, then take a teaspoonful of
chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a piece of butter the size of two
walnuts, pass them a few minutes over the fire, add a tablespoonful of
flour (mix well in), half a pint of milk, stir over the fire, boiling
about five minutes, then add the lobster, which season with a little
cayenne, salt, chopped parsley, and essence of anchovies; stand it again
upon the fire, stirring until boiling, then stir in the yolk of an egg;
take off the fire, fill the shells of the lobster, sprinkle bread-crumbs
over, with a little butter, put in the oven for twenty minutes; dish on
a napkin and serve. To give it a nice color, use the salamander.


619. _Miroton Salad of Lobster._--Prepare and ornament a border of eggs,
like for that of game, put a thick layer of fresh salad in the centre,
and dress over it in a crown, the lobster interspersed with slices of
eggs and gherkins. The lobster must be divided in two across the back,
extract the meat carefully out of it, and cut it in a round or slanting
direction to the thickness of a crown piece, break the claws and cut the
same way, and place on salad as above, so as to form a thick crown near
the border of eggs, then take the interior of the lobster, pound it and
pass it through a fine sieve, add to your sauce.

Any other kind of fish, as cod fish, &c., when cold, cut or break them
in slices, lay them in a basin, season over with salt, pepper, nutmeg,
slices of onion, parsley, a little oil and vinegar; put it in two hours
before serving, and proceed as for lobster.

If there is any fish left from the previous day, I always make a salad
of it, particularly in summer; there are many who object to so much oil,
in which case it may be diminished.


620. _Salad Tartar._--Make as usual the border of eggs and sauce, lay
the salad in the middle and the lobster over, which has been previously
cut in slices; pour over some of the same sauce as above, having added a
tablespoonful of French mustard to it. Gherkins cut in slices, and a few
stoned olives.


621. _Plain Salad._--Take a lobster and any kind of salad, wash it well,
dry in a cloth, cut the lobster up in a salad-bowl, sprinkle over it a
teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, one of chopped tarragon or
chervil, or parsley, if nothing better, four tablespoonfuls of oil, and
two of common vinegar, but only one and a half if French, add the salad,
stir lightly round with a wooden knife and fork, and it is ready.


622. _Lobster served plain._--Break the tail from the body, cut the tail
in two lengthwise, put the body in the middle of the dish, lay the half
tail top and bottom, and the claws on the side; the shell previously
broken, but not disfigured, and serve double parsley round.


623. _Lobster Salad._--Dress a border of hard-boiled eggs, as directed
in salad of game (No. 628), fill the centre with some nice fresh salad,
then take the flesh from a middling-sized lobster, which cut into as
large slices as possible, which put into a basin, and season with a
little pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar, after which dress them
pyramidically upon the salad, and have ready the following sauce: put
the yolks of two fresh eggs in a basin, with the yolk of a hard-boiled
one rubbed through a sieve, add half a saltspoonful of salt, and half
that quantity of white pepper, and commence stirring round with a wooden
spoon with the right hand, holding a bottle of salad oil in the left,
dropping it in by degrees and continually stirring, and when becoming
thickish add a couple of spoonfuls of common vinegar by degrees, still
keeping it stirred, then more oil, proceeding thus until you have used
three parts of a pint of oil, and a corresponding quantity of vinegar,
by continually working, it will form a stiffish cream-looking sauce
perfectly smooth; add a little more seasoning if required, and a
teaspoonful of chopped parsley, with half that quantity of chopped
eschalots, pour over the lobster and serve. Should the sauce curdle in
making, the operation must be again performed, putting a yolk of an egg
into another basin, working it with a little oil until forming a
stiffish paste, when stir in the curdled sauce by degrees until the
whole becomes smooth; always choose a cool place to make it in.


624. _Fish Salads._--All fish salads are made precisely as in the last,
but with the exception of fillets of sole salad, are made from the
remains of fish from a previous dinner, especially turbot and salmon;
but for fillets of soles they must be dressed thus:--

When filleted, melt an ounce of butter in a sauté-pan, lay the fillets
in, season with pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon; sauté
them on a slow fire until done, which may be from four to five minutes,
and put by to get cold; cut in middle-sized pieces, and use as lobster.


625. _New Mayonnaise Sauce._--Put a quarter of a pint of melted aspic
upon ice in a stewpan, which keep whisking until becoming a white froth,
then add half a pint of salad oil and six spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar,
by degrees, first oil and then vinegar, continually whisking until it
forms a white smooth sauce, to all appearance like a cream; season with
half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and a little
sugar, whisk it a little more, and it is ready to serve; it is usually
dressed pyramidically over the article it is served with. The advantage
of this sauce (which is more delicate than any other) is, that you may
dress it to any height you like and it will remain so for a long time;
if the temperature is not too hot it will remain hours without melting
or appearing greasy.


626. _Tartar Sauce._--Rub the yolk of a cold hard-boiled egg through a
hair sieve into a basin, to which add the yolks of two raw eggs, with a
little salt and pepper; mix all together with a wooden spoon; have a
pint of good salad oil in a bottle, hold it with the left hand over the
basin, dropping it in very gradually, and with the right continue
stirring it round until it becomes rather thick, then moisten it with a
little tarragon vinegar, still keeping it stirred, then more oil, and so
on until you have used all the oil, keeping it rather thick; then add a
tablespoonful of finely chopped gherkins, half a ditto of chopped
capers, half a ditto of chopped eschalots, and the same of chopped
parsley, two of French mustard, a little cayenne pepper, sugar, and more
salt if required; it is then ready for use. This sauce requires to be
rather highly seasoned. Common vinegar may be used.


627. _Salmon in marinade._--Have two good slices of salmon cut about
four inches and a half in thickness, in a stewpan have three onions cut
in slices, as also a turnip, a carrot, a head of celery cut small, a
good half handful of parsley, two bay-leaves, and two ounces of butter;
pass the whole ten minutes over a sharp fire, then add a pint of
vinegar, a blade of mace, half a dozen peppercorns, and one ounce of
salt; let simmer, then add three pints of water, put in the salmon,
which simmer gently about half an hour, and leave in the marinade until
cold, when serve with a little of the marinade strained through a hair
sieve in the dish. Trout, mackerel, herrings, sprats, and fillets of
sole or brill, are also very nice cooked in the same manner. A part of
the above marinade may be made at any time, and almost any kind of fish
remaining from a previous dinner may be done the same, and eaten cold.


628. _Salad of Game._--Boil eight eggs hard, shell them, throw them into
cold water, cut a thin slice off the bottom to facilitate the proper
placing of them in the dish, cut each one into four, lengthwise, make a
very thin flat border of butter about one inch from the edge of the
dish you are going to serve them on; fix the pieces of egg upright,
close to each other, the yolk outside, or alternately the white and
yolk; you lay in the centre a layer of fresh salad that may be in
season, and having previously roasted a young grouse rather underdone,
which you cut into eight or ten pieces, then prepare sauce as follows:
put a spoonful of eschalots, finely chopped, in a basin, one ditto of
pounded sugar, the yolk of one egg, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
tarragon, or chervil, and a quarter of an ounce of salt, mix in by
degrees with a wooden spoon, four spoonfuls of oil and two of Chili
vinegar; when all mixed, put it on ice, or in a cold place; when ready
to serve up, whip a gill of cream rather thick, which lightly mix with
it, then lay the inferior parts of the grouse on the salad, sauce over
so as to cover each piece, then lay over the salad and the remainder of
the grouse; sauce over, and serve. The eggs may be ornamented with a
little dot of radishes on the point, or beet-root. Anchovy and gherkin,
cut into small diamonds, may be placed between, or cut gherkins in
slices, and lay a border of them round, or in any way your fancy may
dictate.


629. _Salad of Fowl._--Proceed as for that of game, so far as the eggs
and the salad are concerned; then have a chicken, which has been
previously plain roasted, or in vegetables, and cut it into ten pieces,
put it into a basin, season with a teaspoonful of salt, quarter ditto of
pepper, two tablespoonfuls of oil, one of vinegar, one onion sliced, and
a few sprigs of chopped parsley, mix them well, and let them remain for
a few hours, if time will permit. Take the pieces of chicken, and place
in a dish with salad, as directed for grouse, with the sauce, &c., and
serve. Nothing is better for ball-suppers than these kinds of dishes;
they may be made of all kinds of solid fish, and the sauce is excellent;
any kind of cold meat, dressed round with the sauce, may be served for
supper or luncheon. It may be served with the same sauce or dressing as
for Lobster Salad (or No. 623), or make the following one, which differs
a little:--Put into a middle-sized, round-bottomed basin the yolk of two
eggs, half a spoonful of salt, quarter of one of pepper, half a one of
sugar, ditto of fine chopped onions, ditto of parsley, or of tarragon,
or of chervil, stir with the right hand with a wooden spoon, while you
pour some oil out of the bottle by keeping your thumb on its mouth, so
that it runs out very slowly; when a few spoonfuls are in it, it will
become quite stiff; pour also by degrees a few spoonfuls of vinegar, and
so on until you have made enough for your salad; try if the flavor is
good and relishing, as the quality of these two last ingredients varies
so much, that I must leave it to your more simple and correct judgment.
If you should fail at first, try again until you succeed, and I am
certain you will be delighted with the result; it ought to be made in a
cold place, particularly in summer. Great taste should be observed in
the decoration of the border.




SHELL FISH.


     _Prawns_ are best when very red and have no spawn under the tail.

     The _Escalop_ is a fish very little used, but is exceedingly fine;
     it is in season at the same time as the oyster. It can be cooked in
     a variety of ways, but previous to doing which, it should be kept
     some time in salt water, so that it may free itself from any sand
     that may be in it; when opened, all the beard should be removed,
     and only the white, red, and black parts used; it may be cooked and
     used in every way like oysters, and is excellent with matelote of
     any kind of fish.

     _Razor Shell Fish_ or _Solen Fish_.--This is the aulo of the
     Romans, and a beautiful eating fish. It should also be cooked like
     oysters, and makes most excellent and strengthening soup.

     OYSTERS.--No oyster should be eaten under four years old; their age
     is known by their shell--just the same as the age of a tree is
     known by its bark, or a fish by its scale, and the small oyster has
     the finest flavor.


630. _Escaloped Oysters._--Put two dozen of oysters with their liquor
into a stewpan, place over a fire, and when a little firm, drain them
upon a sieve, catching the liquor in another stewpan; detach the beard
from the oysters, and throw them again into their liquor; add half a
blade of mace, place again upon the fire, and, when boiling, add a piece
of butter the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful
of flour; shake round over the fire until becoming thick, season with a
little cayenne, and salt if required; have an escalop shell, well
buttered and bread-crumbed; place the oysters in, sprinkle bread-crumbs
over, put it in the oven a quarter of an hour, pass the salamander over,
and serve. The yolk of eggs may be added, and less flour.


631. _Stewed Oysters._--Blanch and beard the oysters as above; when
done, put them with their liquor in a stewpan, with four cloves, a blade
of mace, and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, with a little
chopped parsley and cayenne; let simmer a minute, stir in two pats of
butter with which you have mixed half a teaspoonful of flour, let simmer
a little longer, lay the oysters in your dish upon a piece of toast, and
sauce over.


     632. _Shrimps._--Of these there are several varieties; a diversity
     of opinion exists amongst epicures of this little animal which is
     the best; but in my opinion a great deal depends on the manner of
     boiling, and their freshness.

The following is the plan: I prefer them boiled; to one gallon of water
put two ounces of salt, one sprig of lemon thyme and one of mint, and
let it boil; when boiling hard, put one quart of shrimps into an open
wire or wicker basket with a handle, and place it in the water: the time
they take to boil depends on the size of the fish, but may be known by
their changing color; be particular not to boil them too much, or they
will be tasteless and indigestible.


     633. _Forcemeat._--You will find this receipt so useful, and so
     often in use in made dishes, soups, fish, entrées, &c., that I must
     beg of you to devote to it your personal attention; and being
     rather difficult to execute, be present when your cook makes it,
     that she may follow strictly the receipt, which I flatter myself is
     rather original.

Take a pound and a half of lean veal, and cut it in long thin slices,
scrape with a knife till nothing but the skin remains; put it in a
mortar, pound it ten minutes, or until in a purée, pass it through a
wire sieve (use the remainder in stock), then take one pound of good
fresh beef suet, which shred and chop very fine, put it in your mortar
and pound it, then add six ounces of panada (made as under) with the
suet, pound them well together, and add the veal, season with a
teaspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, half that of nutmeg, work
all well together, then add five eggs by degrees, continually pounding
the contents of the mortar; when well mixed, take a small piece in a
spoon, and poach it in some boiling water, and if it is delicate, firm
and a good flavor, it is ready for use; if you require some very
delicate, add two tablespoonfuls of white sauce, or even thick melted
butter; you can vary the flavor by the addition of a spoonful of chopped
parsley, eschalot, mushroom, &c., the flesh of rabbit or fowl, or hare,
pheasant, grouse, &c., if plentiful, may be added, using the ingredients
in proportion. One quarter of this quantity may be made if required.


634. _Panada for Forcemeats._--Put two thirds of half a pint of water
into a stewpan holding a quart, with nearly an ounce of butter; when
boiling, stir in a quarter of a pound of flour; keep it moving over the
fire until it forms a smooth and toughish paste; take it out of the
stewpan, and when cold use it where directed.


635. _Forcemeats of Fish._--These are much in use in France and other
Catholic countries, especially in Lent, but they are a very excellent
garnish for entrées of fish; they may be made of the flesh of almost all
kinds of fish, more particularly the pike, salmon, trout, sole, haddock,
and the whiting, which last is the most delicate.


636. _Forcemeat of Whitings._--Take the fillets of three whitings, take
off all the skin, and pound them well, then take them from the mortar,
and form them into a ball; have a piece of panada (No. 634) one third
the size of the ball, put the panada into the mortar, pound it well,
then add two ounces of fresh butter, which mix well with the panada,
then add the fish, season with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg;
mix all well together, then add by degrees three whole eggs and the
yolks of two, try it in a little boiling water as directed for the
forcemeat of veal. These are served generally as a meagre dish with a
fish sauce, in Catholic families, especially in Lent time.


637. _Stuffing for Veal._--Chop up half a pound of beef suet very fine,
put it in a basin, with eight ounces of bread-crumbs, four ounces of
chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of equal quantities of powdered thyme
and marjoram, and a bay-leaf, the rind of a lemon grated, and the juice
of half one; season with pepper and salt, and one quarter of a nutmeg;
mix the whole with three whole eggs; this will do also to stuff turkey
or baked fish, adding some more chopped parsley.




VEGETABLES.


     In describing to you the different ways these may be dressed, I beg
     of you to make a constant use of them at your own table, as you
     will find they will be much better than partaking of half-raw
     greens, cabbage, turnip-tops, spinach, &c., and are less inviting
     in flavor, and, consequently, do not get consumed so much as they
     ought, which causes more meat to be eaten, and instead of
     refreshing the blood, as all vegetables will do in their season,
     only irritate it. Do not misunderstand me respecting our English
     way of partaking of plain boiled vegetables; I do not wish you to
     give them up entirely, but by adopting both plans, you will find it
     a great advantage in our domestic cookery. For my part, I do not
     object to our plain boiled vegetables, but merely to the neglectful
     way they are cooked and served up, often swimming in water. In
     France, no family in the middle station of life ever dines without
     a dish of dressed vegetables, upon which as much care has been
     bestowed in cooking as upon the principal dish of the dinner, and
     is often eaten alone.


638. _Asparagus._--I cook it thus: I take a bundle and scrape lightly
all the white part, beginning from the head down, and throw them when
done into cold water, then tie them up in bundles of twenty-five each,
if an ordinary size, if very large, half that number, keeping the heads
together, and cut off the ends to make them the same length; have ready
a pan containing one gallon of boiling water, in which has been thrown
two ounces of salt, boil quickly for fifteen minutes, or till tender;
dish them up with a piece of toast in the middle, keep the heads in the
centre, and form a pyramid. Serve very hot, with rich melted butter, or
cream sauce.

     The queen of all vegetables, to my fancy, is asparagus. This may
     almost be said to be a modern vegetable in this country, and it is
     one which requires less cooking than perhaps any other, and is
     considered exceedingly wholesome.


     639. _Young Green Peas._--Young Green Peas! Do not those words
     sound pleasant to the ear, dearest? I fancy that by merely raising
     my eyes from the paper on which I am now writing, I shall see all
     our garden in buds and blossom; it not only seems to invigorate the
     sensitive part of one's appetite, but works upon the mind to that
     point that you may actually fancy you are breathing in a glowing
     atmosphere, and that the pearly dew is gracefully descending in
     small globules from heaven, to fix their sparkling eyes on the
     pinky bloom of myriads of roses. But, alas! how soon this charming
     illusion has disappeared since I have left for a moment the sight
     of my paper to give a peep through the garden window, where I
     perceive that though to-day is the 17th of April, the serious and
     uncheerful Father Winter has once more monopolized those delightful
     and variegated _nuances_ of Nature, by laying out his universal
     snowy tablecloth over this for the present ephemeral vision which
     the inviting words green peas had produced upon my senses; no doubt
     the effect of a good fire in my parlor, where I am now sitting, has
     had a great influence upon me respecting the summery temperature;
     but as a few weeks longer will realize my wishes, I shall here
     content myself by giving you the receipt how they ought to be
     cooked when you can get them.

When very young, I like them plain boiled, because their original flavor
is so fresh and delicate, that any addition, except a little very fresh
butter, would be certain to destroy their aroma; I even object to the
introduction of green mint, though I do not want to deprive you of it,
being only a matter of taste.

Put two quarts of water to boil, with half an ounce of salt, and then
place in one pint of peas, boil a full gallop till tender (about ten
minutes), put in a colander, drain one minute; lay them, raised in the
centre, in a dish, put in them two pats of very fresh butter, and serve.

When older or larger, boil a little longer, add twelve leaves of green
mint, which serve with it.


640. _Peas, French way._--They do not look so inviting, not being so
green; but I must say they are excellent as regards flavor. Choose them
young and fresh; without both of these qualities, they would not cook
properly. Put in a pint of cold water, mix the peas and butter well with
your hand, add four button onions, a bouquet of six sprigs of parsley,
one ounce of sugar, two saltspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, put it
over a tolerably good fire, moving them often; if getting rather dry,
add a wineglassful of water, twenty minutes ought to be enough when
tender; add one ounce of butter, in which you have mixed a teaspoonful
of flour, which put in it, and stir it well; make a liaison of the yolk
of one egg, a quarter of a gill of cream, which add and stir, take out
the parsley and onions, and serve.

_Another way._--When large, I stew them with two cabbage-lettuces cut in
two, and stew longer, put in four wineglassfuls of water, or more if
required, and finish as above.

To keep their color, I often proceed thus for entrées or second courses:
I plain boil as above, and put them in a stewpan, with four small
onions, a little mint, parsley, butter, sugar, and a drop of water,
simmer a few minutes, add as above the flour, butter, and liaison, and
serve; they are very good this way, but not so rich in flavor.

There are different kinds, but I prefer the Prussian Blue above all.


641. _Seakale._--Proceed exactly as for asparagus for boiling, but
previously to boiling cut out the black part of the roots, and well wash
and tie it together, and serve with the same sauce as asparagus. There
is a kind of seakale that is rank and stringy, and not worth eating; it
may be known, when raw, by the outside near the root, which is very
tough and hard.


642. _Sprue-grass._--The longer the green part the better the sprue;
take each piece and gently bend it, and it will break off at that part
which you require, beyond it is too hard, and cannot be eaten; when you
thus have the pieces, cut them into lengths of a quarter of an inch,
which well wash; have one gallon of water, into which put one ounce of
salt, and boil, then put in the sprue and boil for ten minutes, or till
tender, then drain on a sieve, put them in a stewpan, with two ounces of
fresh butter, half a teaspoonful of flour, the same of salt, two pinches
of pepper, and place on the fire, stir well together, and serve hot. The
yolk of an egg, well beaten with two spoonfuls of cream, may be added to
it; and when serving, also two spoonfuls of white sauce or melted
butter,--but I always do it as the first.


643. _Celery._--Cut about ten heads of large celery from six to seven
inches long, trim the outside and cut the root to a point, wash it very
well between the leaves, tie three together, put a gallon of water, with
two ounces of salt, to boil, then add the celery, and boil for fifteen
minutes, then drain it, put into a stewpan a small slice of bacon, and
lay the celery on it, put it on the fire for two minutes, add one onion
sliced, cover with broth until quite tender, then take it out, and dish
on a piece of toast, pass the gravy through a sieve into a stewpan, skim
off the fat, reduce it to a demi-glaze, add a little sugar and a small
pat of butter, which you have rubbed into some flour, stir it well, and
sauce over; it ought to be thick, and of a nice brown color, which
produce, if required, by a little coloring. Marrow may be served with
it, by taking two good pieces of marrow, and boil for a few minutes in a
quart of water, and serve on each side the celery. It can also be cooked
plain boiled, and served with melted butter over, and also boiled in
eight tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, six of broth, and half a
teaspoonful of sugar, in which it has boiled ten minutes, or until
tender; sauce over and serve.


644. _Salsify._--I do not know why this vegetable, which is held in such
high estimation on the Continent, should be so little esteemed with us;
I will here supply their manner of cooking it, and perhaps you will give
it a fair trial. Take twelve middling-sized ones, scrape them well till
quite white, rub each with lemon and put in cold water; put into a
stewpan a quarter of a pound of beef or mutton suet, cut in small dice
one onion, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, a tablespoonful of salt, and four
cloves, put on the fire and stir for five minutes, add two
tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir well, then add three pints of water,
when just boiling put in your salsify, simmer till tender; they will
take nearly one hour; dish on toast, sauce over with Dutch, maître
d'hôtel, or onion sauce, or a very good demi-glaze, or Italian sauce.
Should any remain, they may be made into fritters thus: put the sauce,
if any, in a basin, add a little salt, pepper, two spoonfuls of vinegar,
half a chopped eschalot, and a spoonful of oil, place in the salsify,
and let it remain for some hours, when ready to serve, make a small
quantity of batter, dip each piece in it, and fry for five minutes in
lard or fat, dish up with fried parsley over.


645. _Vegetable Marrow._--Choose eight young small ones, with smooth
skin, and put them to boil in two quarts of water, in which you have put
one ounce of salt, the same of butter, try with a needle if tender, then
dish them tastefully on mashed potatoes in a dish, put half a pint of
melted butter in a pan when near boiling, add a liaison of a yolk of an
egg, two pats of butter, a little sugar, the juice of half a lemon,
sauce over and serve; if they are rather large, cut them in two
length-wise; if in smaller pieces, take all the inside out and boil till
tender, and warm in the above sauce. You can also make a nice
demi-glaze, as No. 132, and let them simmer in it for twenty minutes; do
not break them, as they would then be unsightly; they can be made into
soup like cauliflower (No. 207).


646. _Cauliflower and Broccoli._--Be very particular in cleaning them,
choose them rather small, thick and firm, put them for one hour in salt
and water, then rinse them well in water, that all the dirt may be
removed from the interior; have a pan of boiling water, in which you
have placed two ounces of salt and one of butter, drain and use where
indicated; but if for second course, place them on a dish in the form of
a dome, and cover over with some sauce as for vegetable marrow or plain
melted butter, or Soubise sauce if preferred plain; serve it very hot,
having drained it.


647. _The same gratiné with Cheese._--Put into a stewpan ten spoonfuls
of white sauce, No. 130, with a little chopped onions, which boil for a
few minutes, add to it a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan, or any
mild English cheese; when boiling, add the yolk of one egg, and a little
cayenne, mix quick, lay a little on a dish, put two or three heads of
cauliflower or broccoli on it, pour the remainder of sauce over, and a
little bread-crumbs and grated cheese; put in oven half an hour, give
it a nice yellow color, and serve; if no white sauce, use melted butter,
but do not boil it so long, or it will eat rather greasy.


648. _Jerusalem Artichokes._--One of the best and most useful vegetables
ever introduced to table, and anything but appreciated as it deserves to
be. To prove to you that I am a great admirer of it, you will find it
very often mentioned in my receipts. In using them for a second course,
I choose about twelve of the same size, peel them and shape them like a
pear, but flat at the bottom, wash them well, boil gently in three pints
of water, one ounce of salt, one of butter, and a few sliced onions;
when tender, I make a border of mashed potatoes on a dish, fix them on
it point upwards, sauce over with either cream sauce (No. 280), white
sauce (No. 130), melted butter (No. 264), maître d'hôtel, and place a
fine Brussels sprout between each, which contrast is exceedingly
inviting, simple, and pretty.


649. _Cucumbers_ are most delicious stuffed and stewed, but very
difficult to dress, and consequently chiefly used for entrées, in which
series they will be found. They may, however, be treated like vegetable
marrow.


650. _Artichokes._--Pull the tail off four or six small artichokes, trim
the bottom slightly with a knife, cut the point of every leaf, wash well
in plain water, put them on in plenty of water, with a little salt, to
boil, let them thus remain about half an hour, or until the leaves are
easy to be removed, take them out and lay on a sieve to drain, and serve
on a napkin, with melted butter separate.


651. _Beet-root._--This is a very good dish, and, as I believe it has
never been noticed in cookery, I must lay claim to its parentage; I have
given the receipt to some friends, who highly approve of it. Take two
nice young boiled beet-roots, which will take about from two to three
hours to simmer in plenty of boiling water, peel when cold, cut in
slanting direction, so as to make oval pieces, peel and cut in small
dice two middling-sized onions, put in a pan, with two ounces of
butter, fry white, stirring continually with a spoon; add a spoonful of
flour, and enough milk to make a nice thickish sauce, add to it three
saltspoonfuls of salt, four of sugar, one of pepper, a spoonful of good
vinegar, and boil a few minutes; put in the slices to simmer for about
twenty minutes, have ready some mashed potatoes, with which make a neat
border in your dish one inch high, then put the beet-root and sauce,
highly season in the centre, and serve.


652. _French Beans._--These are also a great favorite with many. To
dress it, head and tail them, drawing off the back string, cut in long
diamonds, boil till tender in water in which salt has been placed, a
quarter of a pound to a gallon, try them after a quarter of an hour's
boiling, drain them, lay them on a dish one inch thick, sprinkle with a
little salt, pepper, and two pats of butter, then put in the remainder,
proceed the same at top; serve very quickly, to prevent the butter
oiling.


653. _The same, à la Maître d'Hôtel._--When boiled as above, put in a
stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of maître d'hôtel butter, when melted
serve. They may be also served with white sauce thus: put in a stewpan
eight spoonfuls of melted butter, season well, simmer gently, add the
yolk of an egg, two ounces of butter, juice of half a lemon, and serve.


654. _Kidney Beans._--Head and tail them, string and slit them down the
middle, place them for half an hour in salt and water in which you have
thrown a little culinary alkali, boil until tender, and serve with
melted butter, or à la maître d'hôtel.


655. _Broad or Windsor Beans._--Boil in salt and water: when done, serve
with parsley and butter, or with a piece of bacon.


656. _Brussels Sprouts._--Trim, wash, and boil about forty small
Brussels sprouts; when tender, drain, dish, and sprinkle a little salt,
pepper, and two ounces of butter over, and serve. Serve also in sauce,
or with maître d'hôtel, like French beans. These are also very good for
soups, sauces, or garnish.


657. _Spinach._--This vegetable is very light and very good for
invalids. It must be washed in several waters, after having been well
picked; then put a quarter of a sieve of spinach to a gallon of water
and three ounces of salt, boil for ten minutes till tender, drain on
sieve, press a little with your hands to extract part of the water, chop
it up fine, put in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a
teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, put on a fire with a drop of
warm broth for a few minutes, and serve.


658. _Spinach with Gravy._--Proceed as before, but add a tablespoonful
of flour and half a pint of strong gravy in it, as No. 177; serve with
sippets of bread round.


659. _Spinach with Cream._--Proceed as before, but putting half a pint
of milk or cream instead of gravy, and the addition of a tablespoonful
of sugar, cut three slices of bread, lay on dish, sift sugar over, put
in oven, salamander over, cut in various shapes, and serve under or over
the spinach.


660. _Young Haricot Beans._--Take a pint, boil in two quarts of water,
with a small piece of butter, and half an ounce of salt; when done,
which will take only a few minutes, dish and serve; put butter over,
sprinkle a little salt, and when on the dish, a gill of maître d'hôtel
sauce or fennel sauce may be served over the larger one, or it is very
delicious plain boiled, and with a piece of ham or bacon.


661. _White Haricot Beans._--Nothing so cheap or so solid a food as
haricot beans; get a pint of fine white beans, called the dwarf--I buy
them for fourpence a quart. I put them into half a gallon of cold soft
water, with one ounce of butter; they take about three hours to cook,
and should simmer very slowly, drain them and put into a stewpan with a
little salt, pepper, chopped parsley, two ounces of butter, and the
juice of a lemon, place on the fire for a few minutes, stir well, and
serve. The water in which it is boiled will not make a bad soup by
frying four onions in butter in a stewpan, adding a little flour, then
the water poured over, and a slice of toasted bread, cut in pieces, and
served in a tureen. Should the water in boiling reduce too fast, add a
little more. They may be dressed for second course, à la Bretonne, as
for leg. The longer sort requires to be soaked a few hours before
boiling.


662. _Mushrooms._--These are good every way when fresh; for a dish take
about fifty button, cut the roots off, wash and rub the skin off with a
cloth, cut them in slices the size of a shilling, tail and all, put them
in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, a small teaspoonful of salt,
two pinches of pepper, and the juice of half a lemon, put them on the
fire, simmer till tender, and dish them up on a nice crisp toast; should
you require any sauce, add, when nearly done, half a spoonful of flour,
a gill of broth, milk, or cream, or even water, stew a few minutes
longer, pour over toast and serve.

_If very large_, they should have been carefully picked, for if the dirt
should have got into the under part it is difficult to remove it; cut
off the end of the tail and peel the top, put them on a gridiron, season
moderately with salt and pepper, turn them, and when done serve them on
a very hot dish, and put on each a piece of butter the size of a nut,
and a squeeze of a lemon, put in a hot oven for a minute, or before the
fire, and serve; a little Harvey's or Soyer's sauce is an improvement.
They may also be put in an oven, by laying them in a sauté-pan or tin
dish, put a little butter and season over each, and a drop of Harvey's
sauce, and let them remain twenty minutes, and serve with gravy over.


663. _Lentils._--Put into a stewpan one quart, add two quarts of cold
water, one ounce of butter, a little salt, one onion sliced, a bouquet
of parsley, set on the fire, simmer till tender, which may be in two
hours; when done, drain in a sieve, and save the liquor, which can be
made into a soup like the haricots (see receipt No. 661); put the
lentils in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, a little salt, sugar,
pepper, and a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots, set it on the fire,
put in butter and flour, mix well, boil ten minutes gently, and dish in
a border of potatoes or in a deep dish. It may also be done thus: by
frying till brown one onion, sliced in a stewpan, put in the boiled
lentils, with two ounces of butter, a little flour, a gill of gravy, and
season as above, stir well, boil, and serve hot.

Gabanza or Egyptian bean may be cooked in the same way.


664. _English Truffles._--Put twelve of them to soak for four hours in
lukewarm water; then with a hard hair-brush remove all the earth from
them; then wash again, put them into a stewpan, with a few slices of
bacon, two onions, half a head of celery, half a carrot, a clove of
garlic, two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, four of parsley, a teaspoonful
of salt, one of sugar, a half of pepper, two glasses of sherry, and a
pint of broth; let them simmer for half an hour or more, but till
tender; place them in the oven for twenty minutes longer, remove the
truffles and place them on a dish; have a little mashed potatoes, and
make a border, and place the truffles on in pyramid to prevent them
moving, strain the gravy they were in, skim off the fat, reduce it to
about a gill, put in a teaspoonful of arrow-root in a cup, with a
spoonful of water, mix it, and put to the gravy, boil a few minutes,
pour over, and serve.

I peeled some of them, cooked the same way, they eat better; but they
did not look so well.


665. _Sauté of the same._--After having washed them, I peel them and cut
into thin slices, and put about one pound of them into a stewpan; I then
add a quarter of a pound of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, half one of
sugar, a quarter ditto of nutmeg, warm over the fire, add a gill of
broth, a little flour, mixed with a little butter, stir in, boil, and
serve on toast;--or proceed as above, adding a gill of demi-glaze. They
can be served with any entrées when properly done, and in all cases can
be used instead of mushrooms.


666. _To cook Sourcrout._--Put a quart of sourcrout, with a fat piece
of bacon or pork, into an _earthen_ pan, with sufficient water to cover
it, stew for four or five hours, and serve with pork or fried sausages;
it is better the second day. It may be procured in any good oil-shop in
the winter.


667. _Sourcrout, Bavarian way._--Well wash one quart of sourcrout, and
put it into an earthen pan with a quarter of a bottle of Rhenish wine or
any other light wine, and stew it for three hours; then add some veal
gravy, well seasoned, and stew for three hours longer, and serve with
sausages, or when you add the veal stock, put in a duck or a goose, and
serve with it.


     668. _Laver_ is a marine plant (the _Ulvoe Lactuca_), which is
     obtained, in London, from the West of England; in Dublin, from
     Malahide; Edinburgh, from Aberdeen. It is merely washed, boiled,
     pulped, and potted by the fishermen's wives. It is considered
     wholesome, but I see nothing particular in it that can make it so
     unless it is the small quantity of iodine that it contains. It
     should be dressed like spinach (No. 658), and sent up very hot in a
     dish over a spirit-lamp, and is generally served with mutton. The
     following is a new plan I have introduced for cooking it, which has
     been liked by those persons who formerly disliked it.

Have some mashed potatoes as No. 672, roll it out the thickness of a
quarter of an inch, cover it with some cold stewed laver nicely
seasoned, put another layer of mashed potatoes over, and allow it to get
quite cold, when cut it in square pieces, egg, bread-crumb, and proceed
as for ramifolles.


     POTATOES.--This root still bears its original American name,
     signifying earth-apple, and is divided into many species. Amongst
     those most common in use are the regent, ash-leaf, kidney; but, in
     the sister kingdom, Ireland, many other varieties are in use; as
     the lumper, reds, and blacks. There are as many different ways of
     cooking them as there are different species, which I will now
     describe.


669. _Plain Boiled or Steamed Potatoes._--Well wash the potatoes and
peel them, and throw them into cold water (that depends upon the kind,
if new or young, or a kidney, they should be cooked immediately after
they are peeled, whilst others require to remain a long time in soak);
have ready a steamer with boiling water in it, put the potatoes on the
top, and steam for twenty to thirty minutes, and serve. Should you not
have a steamer, and are obliged to boil them, do so by putting them into
plenty of boiling water, and boil till tender or breaking, then pour
them out into a colander, put a cloth over them, and put them in the
screen, or before the fire, until you are ready to serve them; they
ought always to be sent to table very hot.


670. _Baked Potatoes._--This is a very favorite dish with many persons;
they ought to be of a large size, called Regents, and when cooked very
floury. Mr. B. tells me he sometimes lunches at a house in the city
where the proprietor grows that sort in particular for the use of his
customers, and he finds them better if he leaves them in the ground
where they grow until wanted, and he has about three days' consumption
taken up at a time. They are merely well washed, and put into a slow
oven for about thirty minutes, or longer if large, and served with a pat
of butter in a plate.


671. _Fried Potatoes._--The long kidney potato is the best for this
purpose; they should be washed and peeled, and cut into very thin
slices, and thrown into boiling fat until a nice light brown color; dish
up very hot, throwing a little salt over. The remains of cold ones may
be cut into slices and fried in the same way, or they may be dipped into
batter, and fried like fritters.


672. _Mashed Potatoes._--Steam about ten fine potatoes for about
thirty-five minutes, put them into a stewpan or bowl, with two ounces of
butter, one teaspoonful of salt, a smaller spoonful of pepper, and half
a pint of milk, and beat them very well up with a large fork, then add
by degrees a gill of milk, and continue beating, and dish them lightly
on a dish. Should you require to keep them warm, do so in a stewpan. I
do not approve of putting them into moulds and then in the oven, as it
makes them heavy.


673. _Potatoes à la Maître d'Hôtel._--With young potatoes they are
excellent. Boil ten middle-sized ones cut in slices of a quarter of an
inch thick, put in the stewpan half a pint of milk or the same of broth,
a little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of fresh
chopped parsley, then simmer on fire; when boiling, add a quarter of a
pound of fresh butter, the juice of a lemon, stir well for a few
minutes; when each piece is well covered with the sauce, dish up, and
high in the centre, as they must appear light.


674. _Lyonnaise._--The remains of cold potatoes may be used thus:--Put
three ounces of butter in an omelette pan, in which you fry rather white
three sliced onions; put on the potatoes, cut in thin slices about the
size of half a crown, and sauté them now and then until they have a nice
yellow color; add a spoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and the
juice of a lemon, sauté well that it should mix well together, dish and
serve very hot; they are excellent to serve with chop, steak, or any
joint.


675. _Irish way of boiling._--In Ireland, where this root has been for
so long a period the chief nourishment of the people, and where it takes
the place of bread and other more substantial food, it is cooked so that
it may have, as they call it, a bone in it; that is, that the middle of
it should not be quite cooked. They are done thus:--Put a gallon of
water with two ounces of salt, in a large iron pot, boil for about ten
minutes, or until the skin is loose, pour the water out of the pot, put
a dry cloth on the top of the potatoes, and place it on the side of the
fire without water for about twenty minutes, and serve. In Ireland turf
is the principal article of fuel, which is burnt on the flat hearth; a
little of it is generally scraped up round the pot so as to keep a
gradual heat, by this plan the potato is both boiled and baked. Even in
those families where such a common art of civilized life as cooking
ought to have made some progress, the only improvement they have upon
this plan is, that they leave the potatoes in the dry pot longer, by
which they lose the _bone_. They are always served up with the skins on,
and a small plate is placed by the side of each guest.


676. _To blanch Macaroni._--Have half a gallon of water in a stewpan, in
which put two ounces of butter and an ounce of salt; when boiling,
throw in a pound of macaroni, which boil until tender, being careful
that it is not too much done; the time of boiling depends principally
upon the quality, the Genoa macaroni taking the longest time, and the
Neapolitan the shortest, which last, if too much done, will fall in
purée.


677. _Macaroni à l'Italienne._--Boil half a pound of macaroni as above;
when done, lay it on a sieve to dry for one minute, put it in a pan,
with four spoonfuls of white sauce, add half a teaspoonful of salt, a
quarter ditto of pepper, a little cayenne, toss the macaroni over the
fire; when boiling, add two ounces each of grated Parmesan and Gruyère
cheese, toss round and round until well mixed, then serve with a gill of
very strong gravy around it.


678. _Macaroni au Gratin._--Proceed the same as above; but after you
have put the macaroni on the dish, omit the gravy, and cover it slightly
with bread-crumbs, and about the same quantity of Parmesan cheese
grated, a little butter, and then put in a hot oven for a quarter of an
hour; if not hot enough, pass the salamander over it, and serve very
hot.


679. _Macaroni à la Napolitaine._--Boil half a pound of the best quality
of macaroni for half an hour, as at No. 736; when tender, lay one
quarter of it on the dish you intend to serve; have ready two ounces of
grated Parmesan cheese, which you divide into four parts to lay over
each layer of macaroni, then put over it two tablespoonfuls of strong
gravy, made of half glaze and consommé, put the dish in the oven for ten
minutes, and serve very hot.


680. _The real Italian method (called à l'Estoufade)._--Boil and proceed
as before, but make the gravy as follows, and use it instead of the
preceding. Take two pounds of rump of beef larded through, put in a
small stewpan, with one quarter of a pound of butter, fry gently for one
hour, turning almost continually; when forming a glaze add half a pint
of broth, let simmer another hour, take the fat off, and use that gravy
instead of that above described; a little tomato may be introduced if
handy, serve the beef at the same time in a separate dish.


681. _Fried Mashed Potatoes in various shapes._--Roast twelve fine
potatoes; when done, take out the interior, which form into a ball; when
cold, put them into a mortar, with a piece of butter half the size of
the ball; pound them well together, season with a little salt, pepper,
chopped eschalots, chopped parsley, and grated nutmeg, mix them with the
yolks of six, and two whole eggs; then form them into croquettes about
the size and shape of a small egg, and bread-crumb them twice over, and
fry them to a light brown color in a stewpan of hot lard, and serve as
garniture where required.


682. _To boil Rice._--Wash well in two separate waters a pound of the
best Carolina rice, then have two quarts of water _boiling_ in a
stewpan, into which throw your rice, boil it until three parts done,
then drain it on a sieve; butter the interior of a stewpan, in which put
your rice, place the lid on tight, and put it in a warm oven upon a
trivet until the rice is perfectly tender, or by the side of the fire;
serve it separate with curry, or any other dish where required. Prepared
thus, every grain will be separate and quite white.


683. _Chopping of Herbs, &c._--This may appear a very simple thing to do
well, yet it is often done badly, by which the flavor is lost. They
should be well washed and dried, and then take the leaves in the left
hand, pressing upon the leaves with your fingers, and chop as fine as
possible, not by placing the point of the knife on the board and raising
it and letting it fall, but with a good sharp cut, so that they are cut,
not pressed. Onions should be peeled, and cut in halves lengthwise, and
then with a thin knife cut each half in slices, leaving them joined at
the root; again cut into slices contrarywise, and then from top to
bottom; thus having cut into very small squares, chop it with both hands
with the knife. You may also wash them; when half-chopped press them in
a cloth, and chop them still finer.




OF DIFFERENT SORTS OF PASTRY.


     The variety of pastes is to the pastry what first stocks are to
     soups and sauces, and must be very properly first described,
     particularly as it is here I must refer my readers for paste even
     used for the hors-d'oeuvre and entrées; to succeed you must be
     particular in your proportions, and very careful in the mixing;
     for, although there is nothing more simple if pains be taken, so
     will the least neglect produce a failure, nor is it only with the
     making of the paste that pains must be taken, but likewise with the
     baking, for as paste badly made would not improve in baking,
     neither will paste, however well made, be good if badly baked;
     should the oven be too hot the paste will become set and burn
     before it is done; and, again, if too cold it would give the paste
     a dull heavy appearance, but an oven properly heated (which can be
     readily known by a little attention on the part of those in the
     habit of using it) will give it a clear brilliant appearance.

     For every description of pastry made from puff paste, try if the
     oven is hot by placing your hand about half-way in, and hold it
     there about a quarter of a minute, if you can hold it there that
     time without inconvenience it would not be hot enough; but if you
     cannot judge of the heat, the safest method would be, try a piece
     of the paste previous to baking the whole; I apply these few
     observations to all my friends, but particularly to the
     uninstructed, as a person of continual practice cannot fail to be
     aware of the truth of them.


684. _Puff Paste._--Put one pound of flour upon your pastry slab, make a
hole in the centre, in which put the yolk of one egg and the juice of a
lemon, with a pinch of salt, mix it with cold water (iced in summer, if
convenient) into a softish flexible paste, with the right hand dry it
off a little with flour until you have well cleared the paste from the
slab, but do not work it more than you can possibly help, let remain two
minutes upon the slab; then have a pound of fresh butter from which you
have squeezed all the buttermilk in a cloth, bringing it to the same
consistency as the paste, upon which place it; press it out with the
hand, then fold over the edges of the paste so as to hide the butter,
and roll it with the rolling-pin to the thickness of a quarter of an
inch, thus making it about two feet in length, fold over one third, over
which again pass the rolling-pin; then fold over the other third, thus
forming a square, place it with the ends top and bottom before you,
shaking a little flour both under and over, and repeat the rolls and
turns twice again as before; flour a baking-sheet, upon which lay it,
upon ice or in some cool place (but in summer it would be almost
impossible to make this paste well without ice) for half an hour; then
roll twice more, turning it as before, place again upon the ice a
quarter of an hour, give it two more rolls, making seven in all, and it
is ready for use when required, rolling it whatever thickness (according
to what you intend making) directed in the following receipts. When I
state that upwards of a hundred different kinds of cakes may be made
from this paste, I am sure it will be quite sufficient to urge upon
every cook the necessity of paying every attention to its fabrication,
as it will repay for the study and trouble.


685. _Puff Paste, with Beef Suet._--Where you cannot obtain good butter
for making paste, the following is an excellent substitute; skin and
chop one pound of kidney beef suet very fine, put it into a mortar and
pound it well, moistening with a little oil, until becoming as it were
one piece, and about the consistency of butter, proceed exactly as in
the last, using it instead of butter.


686. _Half Puff Paste._--Put one pound of flour upon your pastry slab,
with two ounces of butter, rub well together with the hands, make a hole
in the centre, in which put a pinch of salt and the yolk of an egg with
the juice of a lemon; mix with water as before, then roll it out thin
and lay half a pound of butter (prepared as for puff paste) rolled into
thin sheets over, fold it in three, roll and fold again twice over, lay
it in a cold place a quarter of an hour, give another roll, and it is
ready for use where required; this paste is mostly used for fruit tarts,
for which it is well adapted.


687. _Short Paste, or Pâte à foncer._--Put a pound of best flour upon
your pastry slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put an ounce of
salt, half a pound of fresh butter, and sufficient water to form a stiff
paste, mix well together, and it is ready for use where directed.


688. _Short Paste for Fruit Tarts._--Put a pound of flour upon your
pastry slab with six ounces of butter, and rub them well together; then
make a hole in the centre, in which put two ounces of powdered sugar,
two whole eggs, and a large wineglassful of water, mix the eggs, sugar,
and water well, then drown in the flour and mix together, and work it
lightly.


689. _Pâte d'Office, or Confectioner's Paste._--Weigh half a pound of
flour, which put upon your slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put
six ounces of sifted sugar, mix it well with four eggs into a stiffish
paste, having first well dissolved the sugar with the eggs, work it
well, it is then ready for use.

This paste was very much used when pièces montés were so much in vogue,
but in the several receipts in which it is referred to, it is used upon
quite a new principle, and very much simplified; this paste, with the
above proportions, ought to be very stiff, but still pliable enough to
be worked without breaking; should it be too stiff add more eggs, or too
soft more flour; the half or quarter of the above quantity may of course
be made.


690. _Vols-au-Vent_ of all things in pastry require the most care and
precision; they that can make a good vol-au-vent may be stamped as good
pastrycooks, although many variations in working puff paste, all others
are of secondary importance. Make a pound of puff paste, giving it seven
rolls and a half, leave it an inch in thickness, make a mark upon the
top either round or oval, and according to the size of your dish; then,
with a sharp-pointed knife, cut it out from the paste, holding the knife
with the point slanting outwards; turn it over, mark the edges with the
back of your knife, and place it upon a baking-sheet, which you have
sprinkled with water; egg over the top, then dip the point of the knife
into hot water, and cut a ring upon the top a quarter of an inch deep,
and half an inch from the edge of the vol-au-vent, set in a rather hot
oven, if getting too much color, cover over with a sheet of paper, do
not take it out before done, or it would fall, but when quite set, cut
off the lid, and empty it with a knife; be careful to make no hole in
the side or bottom; if for first course it is ready, but if for second
sift sugar all over, which glaze with the salamander. Regulate the
thickness of the paste from which you cut the vol-au-vent, according to
the size you require it, the smaller ones of course requiring thinner
paste. A vol-au-vent for entrées will take about half an hour to bake,
and as the common iron ovens often throw out more heat upon one side
than the other, it will require turning two or three times to cause it
to rise equal; it ought to be when baked of a light gold color.


691. _Vol-au-Vent of Peaches._--Put half a pound of sugar in a
sugar-pan, with the juice of a lemon and about half a pint of water,
place it upon the fire and boil till becoming a thickish syrup; then
have eight peaches not quite ripe, which cut in halves, break their
stones and blanch the kernels, throw six halves with the kernels into
the syrup, boil three minutes, take them out with a skimmer, lay them
upon a dish and take off their skins, stew the rest in syrup in like
manner, four at a time; when all done pour what liquor runs from them
again into the syrup, which reduce to a good thickness, pass it through
a tammy into a basin, when cold pour a little over the peaches and leave
until ready to serve; dress the peaches in your vol-au-vent with the
syrup over. This is a receipt I learnt in France, where I got peaches
for a sou each.


692. _Vol-au-Vent with Fruit._--These are generally used for the second
course, and do not require to be so high as the other, especially as the
fruit ought to be dressed in the form of a pyramid, if they are cut
about three quarters of an inch in thickness it will be enough; when
nearly done, sift some powdered sugar over them, and put it back in the
oven to glaze well, if not hot enough use the salamander; remove the
interior, taking care not to make a hole in the bottom or sides, and
fill with any kind of fruit you like, but never mix two kinds together,
except currant and raspberry.


693. _Sweet Vol-au-Vent with Rhubarb._--In the spring of the year, this
makes a very inviting and wholesome dish, and its qualities purify the
blood, which the winter's food has rendered gross; cut about twelve
sticks of rhubarb into lengths of one inch, put it in a stewpan holding
about two quarts, put over it a quarter of a pound of sugar, and a
tablespoonful of water, set it on a sharp fire, stirring it, do not let
it get brown, or it would spoil and lose its flavor; it will take but a
few minutes to do; when tender, put it in a basin to cool; a few minutes
before serving, fill the vol-au-vent with it, and serve cold.


694. _Ditto, with green Gooseberries._--A quart of green gooseberries, a
quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and a
tablespoonful of water, put on the fire and move it about for ten
minutes, or till tender, and forming a thick green marmalade, put it in
a basin till cold, serve in pyramid in the vol-au-vent; a little thick
syrup, if handy, poured over, improves the appearance.


695. _Ditto, with Orange._--Well peel six oranges, removing all the
pith, divide each into six or eight pieces, put them in a pan, with a
quarter of a pound of sugar, and the juice of one orange, set it on a
slow fire, with the cover on, stir it now and then; ten minutes will be
sufficient time for it, take out the pieces one after the other, lay
them in a basin, reduce your syrup to a proper thickness, when ready to
serve, dish your pieces of orange in it, and pour over the syrup.


696. _Another method._--Make a thick syrup with half a pound of sugar,
put in your pieces by a dozen at a time, just give them a boiling,
remove them on a sieve, then add the other pieces, when all done, add
the juice, which pass through a sieve, and back again to the pan, boil
till a proper thickness, dish up and serve the syrup over.


697. _Ditto, a still plainer method._--Have the pieces of orange ready,
and put in a stewpan a quarter of a pound of sugar, a wineglass of
brandy or rum, stir it well a few minutes, and serve with the liquor
poured over.


698. _Ditto, with Cherries._--Stone one pound of cherries, and put in a
pan, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, stew for five minutes,
take them down, drain, then reduce the syrup till thick, and pour over
at the moment of serving.


699. _Ditto, with Strawberries._--Pick two pottles of very fresh
strawberries, not too ripe, put them in with two ounces of powdered
sugar, a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, toss them gently in a basin,
and serve immediately in your vol-au-vent.


700. _Ditto, with Apples._--This fruit being procurable all the year
renders it one of very great convenience; Ripstone pippins are the best:
cut in four, peel them, put a pint of syrup, when boiling, put in your
apples, with the peel of half a lemon, and the juice of a whole one, let
simmer till tender, put it in a basin, boil the syrup to a white jelly,
let it stand till cold, put the apple in the vol-au-vent, and pour the
syrup (cold) or jelly over; serve a few ornaments made with very green
angelica.


701. _Another method._--Cut any kind of apple, rather thin, put over a
quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, the rind of a lemon chopped, the
juice of the same, one ounce of butter, and a glass of sherry, put on
the fire, toss till tender, but keep it very white, put it in a basin,
when cold dish in your vol-au-vent; whip a gill of good cream, add ten
drops of orange-flower water in it, cover over carefully and serve.

Apple sauté with butter, in this way may be served hot in the
vol-au-vent. Any kind of plums or apricots, when plentiful, may be done
the same as cherries, and served the same way.


702. _Little Fruit Rissolettes._--I also make with the trimmings of puff
paste the following little cakes: if you have about a quarter of a pound
of puff paste left, roll it out very thin, about the thickness of half a
crown, put half a spoonful of any marmalade on it, about one inch
distance from each other, wet lightly round them with a paste-brush, and
place a piece of paste over all, take a cutter of the size of a crown
piece, and press round the part where the marmalade or jam is, with the
thick part of the cutter, to make the paste stick, then cut them out
with one a size larger, lay them on a baking-tin, egg over, then cut a
little ring in paste, the size of a shilling, put it on them, egg over
again, place in a nice hot oven for twenty minutes, then sugar over with
finely sifted sugar, so as to make it quite white all over, then put
back into the oven to glaze: should the oven not be sufficiently hot,
take a salamander, or, for the want of one, a red-hot shovel, full of
live coals, may be used; serve in the form of a pyramid. A little
currant jelly in the ring looks well.


703. _Flanc of Fruit._--This requires a mould the same as No. 602; it
must be well wiped with a cloth, butter it, then take the remains of
puff paste, and roll it well so as to deaden it, then roll it out a size
larger than your mould, and about a quarter of an inch thick, place your
mould on a baking-tin, put the paste carefully in the mould and shape it
well, to obtain all the form of the mould, without making a hole in it;
put a piece of paper at the bottom, fill with flour to the top, and bake
a nice color; it will take about half an hour, then take out the flour
and paper, open the mould, and fill it.


704. _Flancs_, with any kind of fruit, like a vol-au-vent, are more
easily made, and are equally as good a side dish. This may be made of
half-puff or short paste, and fill with raw cherries and some pounded
sugar over: bake together. Greengages, apricots, or any kind of plums,
will require a hotter oven than for flour only in it, the fruit giving
moisture to the paste; if baked in a slow oven will be heavy, and
consequently indigestible.


705. _Another._--If you have no mould, make a quarter of a pound of
paste (No. 688), roll it round or oval to your fancy, a quarter of an
inch thick, wet the edge all round about half an inch, raise that part
and pinch it round with your thumbs and fingers, making a border all
round, put on a baking-sheet, fill with fruit one row, if large two;
remove the stones, and sift sugar over according to the acidity of the
fruit; it will take less time, too, than if in a mould: you see what
variation can be made with very little trouble or expense.


706. _Flanc of Apples._--I just perceive that I had forgot to give you a
few receipts in this way of cake, which I make very pretty when we have
a party. Take eight Ripstone pippins, cut in four, peel a nice shape,
rub with lemon, put half a pound of sugar in a pan, cover with cold
water, juice of a lemon; boil till rather thick, then add half the
apples, simmer till tender, put them on a plate, do the remainder the
same way, reduce the syrup a little, put the apples in a basin, pour
syrup over: when cold, dish in pyramid in the crust, which you have
prepared as No. 703, pour over the syrup, which should be a jelly. I
often cut in fine strips the rind of a lemon or orange, boil with the
apples, and ornament also with pieces of young angelica preserved, cut
in diamond, placing a piece between each apple. Flancs of pears may be
made precisely the same way, but with good ripe eating pears cut in two
lengthwise, leaving the stalk cut in half.


707. _A plainer way._--Peel and cut eight apples in thin slices in a
pan, with two ounces of pounded sugar, the rind and juice of a lemon,
the rind well chopped, put on fire, stir till forming a thick marmalade,
and tender, melt a little currant jelly, pour over and serve.


708. _Small Fruit Tarts._--The next in order to sweet vol-au-vents, and
which are easier to make, are tartlets, their appearance being inviting,
and their expense limited, and very easy to serve. They may be made from
the trimmings of any puff paste which remains, should be enveloped in
paper, and kept in a cold place, or in the flour tub. Make them as
follows:--Have ready twelve or more small tartlet pans, which butter,
line each with a bit of puff paste cut with a cutter the size of a crown
piece, force up the edges with your thumb and finger, put a small ball
(made of flour and water) in each, bake them nicely in a very hot oven;
when done take out the ball (which may be kept for other occasions), the
tartlets, and shake powdered sugar over the bottom of each, and glaze
with a salamander, turn them over, and shake sugar in the interior,
which also salamander; fill with any kind of preserve, marmalade, or
fruit, for sweet vol-au-vents. They may be made with cream as
follows:--Make your tartlets as before, placing cream instead of the
ball of flour, made thus: put half a pint of milk in a stewpan, when
boiling, add half a stick of vanilla, reduce the milk to half in another
stewpan, have the yolks of two eggs and a quarter of an ounce of
powdered sugar, and one ounce of sifted flour, with a grain of salt,
pour in the milk, taking out the vanilla, place over a slow fire, keep
stirring till it thickens; when cold, fill the tartlets, and bake nicely
in a moderate oven; when cold, add a little jam, have ready a meringue
of four eggs (see No. 711), lay a teaspoonful of each upon them,
spreading it quite flat with a knife, ornament the top with some of the
mixture, put into a paper cornet, sift sugar over, place in a slow oven
till a light brown color, and the meringue quite crisp; if the oven is
too hot, cover with a sheet of paper, dress, and serve in pyramid upon
your dish. They ought to be of a light color.


709. _Rissole Fourrée._--This is made as the rissole for entrées; it is
a very simple receipt, and I vary it continually without the slightest
difficulty; instead of making it with orange I substitute apricot
marmalade, apple, raspberry, strawberry, or greengage jam; but no jelly,
as currant or apple, as it would run through the paste and look bad. To
vary the appearance at table, instead of egging, dust them lightly over
with some coarse powdered sifted sugar, then bake them white instead of
brown; if the oven is too hot cover with a sheet of paper, put a little
marmalade or jam in a ring which you have selected, and serve. By
blanching and chopping a few pistachios, and mixing with the sugar,
makes them look very inviting, or even chopped sweet almonds changes the
flavor; they may also be filled with any preparation of cream, rice, or
vermicelli, prepared as for croquets. I also change them by sautéing, as
they are much quicker done, and make a very nice dish. To remove the
roast of the second course, I put six at a time in the sauté-pan (see
page 62), which must be hot, and sauté a few minutes until a nice pale
yellow color, serve with sifted sugar over, or egg and bread-crumb;
serve very hot; if any left cold, warm in the oven.


710. _Flanc Meringue of Apple._--Sometimes I make a meringue of three
eggs, as No. 711; when it is hard I cover the apples with it half an
inch thick, keeping the pyramid; then I put the remainder in a paper
cornet; cut the point so that by pressing it the mixture may go out by
degrees, with which I make various designs, according to fancy, sugar
over, and put for half an hour to bake in a very slow oven; the color
ought to be pale yellow; they are equally good hot or cold. If you would
keep it quite white, bake it in a still slower oven, and give it a
quarter of an hour longer. When I do it so, I merely make dots all over,
about a quarter of an inch distant from each other, of the size of small
nuts, sugar over, and put a Corinth raisin in each knob, which gives it
a good appearance, and bake as directed; when the eggs are just set, you
may cover it with a sheet of paper, to prevent it taking too much color.


711. _Meringues à la Cuillerée._--Pound and sift one pound of lump
sugar, whisk the whites of twelve eggs very stiff, throw the sugar
lightly over, and with a wooden spoon stir gently, perfectly mixing the
sugar, then with a table or dessert-spoon lay them out upon white paper
in the shape of eggs, sift powdered sugar thickly over, let them remain
ten minutes, then shake off the superfluous sugar, place upon boards
which you have wetted, and put them in a slow oven, just hot enough to
cause them to be light and slightly tinged; when the outside becomes
quite crisp, take off the papers, by turning them topsy-turvy and
lifting the papers from them, dip your spoon into hot water, and with it
clear out the best part of the interior, dust them with powdered sugar,
lay them upon a baking-sheet, and put into the screen to dry; they may
be made a day or two before they are required, if put away in a dry
place; to serve, fill them with whipped cream flavored either with
vanilla or orange-flower (but do not make it too sweet), stick two
together, dress in pyramid upon a napkin, and serve. Should they happen
to stick to the papers, moisten the papers with a paste-brush and water
underneath.


712. _Gáteau Fourré._--This style of cake is exceedingly simple, and
admits of great variation. You must make a half pound of puff paste (No.
684), take one third of it and roll it out several times so as to deaden
it, then mould it round with your hands to the shape of a ball, then
roll it out flat to the thickness of half a crown, lay it on a
baking-sheet, put on it marmalade a quarter of an inch thick, reserving
about one inch all round of paste to fix the cover on, then roll out the
remainder of the paste to the same shape, it will of course be thicker,
wet the edges of the bottom and lay the cover on it, press it so that it
sticks, cut neatly round the edges, and make a mark with the back of a
knife about a quarter of an inch deep and half an inch apart all round,
egg over, and lightly mark any fanciful design with the point of a knife
on the cover, bake in a very hot oven for twenty minutes; when nearly
done sprinkle some sugar over and salamander, and serve cold. It may be
made with frangipane and cream and apple marmalade, and then can be
served hot.


713. _Dartoise Fourrée._--The former one must be made in proportion to
the dish you intend to serve on, but the following is simple, and looks
as well: prepare the paste as before, but roll the bottom piece square,
put it on a baking-sheet, cover with jam, marmalade or frangipane,
leaving one inch at the edge, roll the cover the same size, wet the
edges, place it over, trim the edges, mark it down every three inches,
and then crosswise every inch; bake in hot oven, sugar over, and
salamander. When nearly cold, cut it where you have marked it; thus, a
piece twelve inches square will give you forty-eight pieces; dish as a
crown or pyramid, twelve pieces make a nice dish for a party. They may
be made of any puff paste which is left, but will not be so light as if
made on purpose; can be cut to any fanciful shape you please.


714. _Nougat of Apricot._--Proceed as above, but lay apricot marmalade
all over a quarter of an inch thick, blanched almonds, cut into fillets,
mixed with two ounces of sugar, and the white of an egg added to it,
bake in a moderate oven, and cut in true lozenge shapes (I do not mean
those things called lozenges, but a diamond shape), dish up on a napkin
in crown or pyramid; they ought to be of a nice transparent color.
Orange, apple, or quince marmalade may be used instead of apricot. Red
fruit preserve does not cook well.


715. _Crusts of Fruit._--Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a
sauté- or frying-pan, sprinkle a little sugar over, cut four or five
slices of bread a quarter of an inch thick, three inches long, and one
and a half wide, lay in your pan; take one dozen of greengages, open
them in two, they must not be too ripe, lay the skin part on your bread,
put a pinch of sugar in each, put it in a hot oven for twenty minutes;
have ready a salamander or a hot shovel, and hold it over it for a few
minutes, dish and serve hot or cold; the oven ought to be hot enough to
give a nice yellow color to the bottom, which will eat crisp.


716. _Crusts with Madeira._--Cut a French penny roll lengthwise in four
or five slices, put the yolks of two eggs, with four spoonfuls of milk,
mix it in a plate, dip quickly each piece in it, and sauté in a quarter
of a pound of butter which you have previously melted in a pan, leave
them on the fire until they have obtained a nice gold color on both
sides, put a spoonful of apricot marmalade in a stewpan, with two
glasses of Madeira, and place on the fire; when on the point of boiling,
pour over the bread, which you have previously put in a plate, and serve
very hot. Any preserve may be used, also any white wine; and should you
have no French rolls, any fancy roll will do, or stale brioche (No. 11)
is excellent for them.


     717. _Cheesecakes._--Under this head, in English Cookery Books, are
     a variety of Receipts, but in fact, there is only one; the others
     may all be denominated tartlets of one kind or the other, and
     require but little skill on the part of the cook to vary in an
     innumerable number of ways. The following is the plan in use in the
     farm-houses in the midland counties; some which I have received
     from Stilton, and also from Tuxford, in Nottinghamshire, are
     excellent.

Take four quarts of milk and turn it with some fresh rennet; when dry,
crumble it and sift it through a coarse sieve into a bowl, beat it well
up with a quarter of a pound of butter until it is quite smooth (it may
require a little more butter, depending on the quality of the milk); mix
in another bowl the yolks of four eggs and a quarter of a pound of very
fine sifted biscuit powder, the rind of four lemons, the juice of two, a
quarter of a pound of powdered sugar (some add a little grated nutmeg or
cinnamon), beat these all well up together until forming a stiff cream,
then put it by degrees into the bowl with curd, and mix them well
together; line some tartlet-pans, previously buttered, with some paste
(No. 686), and place some of the above mixture in, and bake quick. In
some places milk is used instead of eggs. Should you not have rennet,
procure some good milk, and turn it with the juice of a lemon or a
teaspoonful of soda or culinary alkali to a quart of milk: drain the
curd, and proceed as before.


     718. _Richmond Maids of Honor._--These delicious little cakes,
     which every inhabitant of London who pays a visit to the most
     picturesque part of its environs knows so well, derive their name
     from a period when cookery was not thought to be a degrading
     occupation for those honored with that title. It is stated that
     they originated with the maids of honor of Queen Elizabeth, who had
     a palace at Richmond. I have a little work now before me, called
     'The Queen's Delight,' in which are several receipts invented by
     the wives of the first nobles of the land, which I think is an
     excellent example for those housewives who honor this book by their
     perusal, to imitate. They are made as follows:

Sift half a pound of dry curd, mix it well with six ounces of good
butter, break the yolks of four eggs into another basin, and a glass of
brandy; add to it six ounces of powdered lump sugar, and beat well
together one very flowery baked potato, cold, one ounce of sweet
almonds, one ounce of bitter ditto pounded, the grated rind of three
lemons, the juice of one, and half a nutmeg grated, mix these well
together and add to the curds and butter; stir well up, and proceed as
before, filling the tartlet pans.


719. _Lemon Cheesecakes._--Take two large lemons, and rub the rind with
one pound of loaf sugar, so that all the yellow part is removed; place
the sugar in a basin, squeeze the juice of the lemons over, then add the
yolks of six eggs, and beat it all well up, and put it by in a jar for
use. It will keep for years. Any flavor, such as vanilla or cinnamon,
may be added, if liked, when required for use. Having made the paste and
lined the tins, mix one tablespoonful of the mixture with a teacupful of
good milk, and place a little in each tartlet.


720. _Sweet Omelettes._--Break six eggs in a basin, into which put a
teaspoonful of sugar, three of cream, or a few small pieces of butter;
put two ounces of butter in an omelette pan; when quite hot, pour in
the eggs and proceed as for Omelettes of Herbs, turn over on your dish,
sift some powdered sugar over, salamander, and serve.


721. _Omelettes of Preserved Fruits_, viz. Currant Jelly, Raspberry and
Strawberry Jam, Apricots, Peaches, Cherries, &c., are made the same as
the last, but, just before turning on your dish, put two spoonfuls of
preserves in the centre, sugar over, salamander, and serve.


722. _Macedoine of Omelettes._--Instead of making one with eight eggs,
make four, with two eggs each, of different kinds of preserves; serve on
the same dish, sugar over, &c., as before.


723. _Omelette with Rum._--The same as sweet omelette, but, the moment
of going to table, pour two glasses of rum round, and set it on the
fire.


724. _Beignet Soufflé._--Put in a stewpan a pint of milk or water, a
teaspoonful of sugar, two ounces of butter, a few drops of essence of
vanilla, or any flavor you please; give it a boil, throw in some flour,
keep stirring all the time until it becomes quite thick and no longer
tastes of the flour and detaches itself from the pan. It will take about
half an hour, as the better it is done the lighter it is; withdraw it
from the fire, stir in six eggs, one at a time, sift about two ounces of
sugar, until the paste is of the stiffness of puff paste; have ready a
pan of hot fat, into which you drop by a spoon small pieces of paste, it
will increase their size; and when a nice color, take them out, drain,
and dish on a napkin, with sifted sugar over.


725. _Apple Fritters._--Mix one pound of flour with half a pint of milk
or water, then half a pound of butter melted in a stewpan, mix well
together with a wooden spoon very smooth, thin it a little with
table-beer or water, whisk the whites of three eggs very stiff, stir in
gently; have six apples, peeled, cut in slices about a quarter of an
inch thick, the cores taken out with a cutter, dip each piece in the
batter, and fry in hot lard about six minutes; to fry well, the fat
should not be too hot at first, but get hotter as it proceeds; they
should be crisp, and of a nice golden color; serve on a napkin, and sift
sugar over.


726. _Ditto, Peaches._--Skim and cut in halves six ripe but fine
peaches, take out the stones, have a batter prepared as the last, dip
them in, fry, and serve the same.


727. _Ditto, Apricots._--Cut in halves, and proceed as above, and sugar
over until quite brown.


728. _Ditto, Oranges._--Peel four oranges, divide them in quarters by
the thin skin, without cutting the flesh, and proceed as before.

Any other fruit may be done in the same way, and can, if required, be
soaked in wine or brandy previously, but they do not fry so well.


729. _Pancake with Marmalade._--Put a quarter of a pound of sifted flour
into a basin, with four eggs, mix them together very smoothly, then add
half a pint of milk or cream, and a little grated nutmeg, put a piece of
butter in your pan (it requires but a very little), and when quite hot
put in two tablespoonfuls of the mixture, let spread all over the pan,
place it upon the fire, and when colored upon one side turn it over,
then turn it upon your cloth; proceed thus till they are all done, then
spread apricot or other marmalade all over, and roll them up neatly, lay
them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over, glaze nicely with the
salamander, and serve upon a napkin; the above may be served without the
marmalade, being then the common pancake.


730. _Apple Charlotte with Butter._--For the few following receipts, the
russet apple is the one I should recommend, it being the most suitable,
not being so watery, or falling in purée, but in case they cannot be
obtained, other sorts may be used, which will require to be more reduced
in stewing.

Well butter the interior of a plain round mould, then cut twelve pieces
of bread the size and thickness of a shilling, dip them in clarified
butter, and lay them in a circle round the bottom of your mould; cut
also eight small pieces in the shape of diamonds, dip them in butter,
and with them form a star in the centre of the circle, cover the whole
with a round piece of bread the size of the bottom of the mould, and the
thickness of a penny-piece, cut about thirty other pieces an inch wide
and four inches in length, dip one after the other in clarified butter,
which stand upright, one half-way over the other, all round the interior
of the mould; then have ready prepared two dozen or more russet apples,
which peel and cut in slices, put them into a round stew or
preserving-pan, with three ounces of butter and half a pound of broken
lump sugar, with a little lemon-peel cut in strips, and a glass of
sherry, place them over a sharp fire, tossing over occasionally, but
keeping them together in a cake; when quite tender fill your mould
(having previously well egged and bread-crumbed the interior), place
another round piece of bread (also egged and bread-crumbed) over the
apples, and stand the mould in a hot oven until the bread becomes well
browned, take out and turn it over upon your dish, have a few spoonfuls
of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with a glass of sherry, melt it over
the fire, and when quite hot pour round the charlotte; sugar and
salamander the top if not quite crisp, and serve. You may also, for a
change, introduce a little sweetmeat of any kind in the middle of your
charlotte, and use plain pieces of bread a quarter of an inch thick,
instead of so many pieces for the sides.


731. _Apples with Rice._--Peel and quarter twelve good-sized apples, put
them into a preserving-pan, with three quarters of a pound of sugar, the
thin rind of a lemon in strips, the juice of another, and a wineglassful
of water, pass them over a sharp fire, and when tender lay them upon the
back of a hair sieve to drain, then put six ounces of rice into a
stewpan, with a quart of milk, place it upon the fire, stir until
boiling, then place it upon a very slow fire to simmer very gently until
quite tender, placing a little fire upon the lid, if it becomes dry
before it is tender add a little more milk; then add a quarter of a
pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, and four eggs, stir them
well in, stir over the fire until becoming again thick; when put it
upon a dish to get cold, then form a stand with it upon your dish eight
inches in diameter and three in height, but hollow in the centre, where
dress some of the apples, more rice over, then more apples, forming a
pyramid; you have previously reduced the syrup drained from the apples,
which pour over the whole, and garnish with some very green angelica,
forming any design your fancy may dictate. Apples with rice may be
served hot as well as cold.


732. _Pears with Rice._--Peel and cut in halves eighteen small ripe
pears, which put in a small preserving-pan, with three quarters of a
pound of sugar, a little water, and the juice of two lemons, stew them
till tender, then lay them upon a dish to cool, and mix three
tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade with the syrup, have some rice
prepared as in the last, with which make a stand, but not quite so high,
dress the pears in a border in the interior, and again in the centre
dress the remainder of the rice in pyramid; when ready to serve pour the
syrup over, and garnish tastefully with angelica round.


733. _Apples with Butter._--Peel eighteen russet apples, which cut in
quarters, and trim of a nice shape, put them into a small
preserving-pan, with two ounces of butter and three quarters of a pound
of sugar, having previously rubbed the rind of an orange upon it and
pounded it, pass them over a sharp fire, moving occasionally until quite
tender, have ready buttered a plain dome mould, put the apples into it,
pressing them down a little close; when half cold turn it out of the
mould upon a dish, and cover all over with apricot marmalade; when cold
it is ready to serve.


734. _Apple Bread, Russian fashion._--Put one pound and a half of lump
sugar and a pint and a half of water into a round-bottomed copper
preserving-pan, place it over a sharp fire and reduce it to a crack,
have ready twenty-four good brown pippin apples peeled and cut into
slices, which put into the sugar, keeping stirred until it becomes quite
a thick marmalade, take off the fire and put it into a cylinder mould,
previously slightly oiled, shake it well down, and let it remain until
quite cold; then turn it out of the mould upon your dish; have a few
spoonfuls of currant jelly in a stewpan, which melt over the fire, add
two glasses of good old rum, and when partly cold, pour over and serve
with whipped cream in the centre, in which you have introduced a quarter
of an ounce of candied orange-flowers; if any remain, it will be
excellent to make croquettes.


735. _Apples sauté in Butter._--Procure a dozen russet apples, which cut
into slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, peel and take out the
cores with a round cutter, then put two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan,
spread it over the bottom and lay in your apples, with half a pound of
powdered sugar and the juice of two lemons, stew gently over a moderate
fire; when done, dress them rather high in crown upon your dish, melt
three spoonfuls of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with which mix a
glass of Madeira wine, which pour over when ready to serve.


736. _Croquettes of Rice._--Well wash half a pound of the best Carolina
rice, which put into a stewpan, with a pint and a half of milk, and a
quarter of a pound of butter, place it upon the fire, stir until
boiling, then place it upon a slow fire, cover the stewpan, and let
simmer very slowly until quite tender; rub the rind of a lemon upon a
lump of sugar, weighing a quarter of a pound, pound it in a mortar quite
fine, add it to the rice, with the yolks of five eggs (mix well), stir
them a few minutes longer over the fire until the eggs thicken, but do
not let it boil, lay out upon a dish, when cold form it into a number of
small balls, or pears, or into long square pieces, according to fancy;
have three or four eggs in a basin well whisked, dip each piece in
singly, and then into a dish of bread-crumbs, smooth them gently with a
knife, dip them again into the eggs and bread-crumbs, put them into a
wire basket, which put in a stewpan of very hot lard, fry a nice light
yellow color, drain on a cloth, dress them pyramidically upon a napkin,
and serve with powdered sugar sifted over them.


737. _Croquettes of Macaroni._--Blanch six ounces of macaroni in two
quarts of water until tender, then strain and put it in a basin of cold
water; when cold cut it into pieces half an inch in length, and put it
into a stewpan containing a pint and a half of boiling milk, in which
you have infused a stick of vanilla, boil until it becomes thickish, add
a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, two ounces of butter, and the
yolks of eight eggs, stir them well in over the fire until the eggs
thicken, then pour out upon a dish, and proceed precisely as for the
croquettes of rice.


738. _Pastry Cream sautéd._--Put the yolks of six eggs in a stewpan,
with two good tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, mix quite smooth with a
wooden spoon; then add a pint of boiling milk or cream, stir in by
degrees, and place it over the fire, keeping stirred until it thickens,
add an ounce of butter, six ounces of sugar, two ounces of crushed
ratafias, a little orange-flower water, and three whole eggs, mix the
whole well together, and stir it a few minutes longer over the fire
until the eggs set; then pour it out upon a sauté-pan, previously oiled,
and when quite cold cut it into pieces one inch wide and two and a half
long, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs twice over, the same as for
croquettes, sauté them in the same manner, dress upon a napkin as high
as you can, with sifted sugar over, they may be flavored also with
vanilla or lemon. They may be varied in shape according to fancy.




JELLIES.


     Nothing, I am confident, will give you more pleasure than trying
     the receipts which I am now about giving you; they are for jellies,
     that is, those made from gelatinous substances of animal
     production. They are the most wholesome productions of cookery, and
     are slightly nourishing and fortifying without being exciting. You
     will find the receipts as simple as possible; and you will perceive
     that, when you have made the foundation stock to perfection, they
     may be varied in twenty or more different ways, by changing the
     flavor, fruits, or colors.


739. _Jelly Stock_, made from calf's feet, requires to be made the day
previous to being used. Take two calf's feet, cut them up, and boil in
three quarts of water; as soon as it boils remove it to the corner of
the fire, and simmer for five hours, keeping it skimmed, pass through a
hair sieve into a basin, and let it remain until quite hard, then remove
the oil and fat, and wipe the top dry. Place in a stewpan one gill of
water, one of sherry, half a pound of lump sugar, the juice of four
lemons, the rinds of two, and the whites and shells of five eggs, whisk
until the sugar is melted, then add the jelly, place it on the fire, and
whisk until boiling, pass it through a jelly-bag, pouring that back
again which comes through first until quite clear; it is then ready for
use, by putting it in moulds or glasses.


740. _Gelatine and Isinglass Jelly_ is made as above, using one ounce
and a half of either, and boil in one quart of water, reduce to half; if
not required very clear, as for lemon jelly, it need not be run through
a bag, but merely through a fine sieve.


741. _Hartshorn Jelly._--Use half a pound of hartshorn shavings, boil in
three quarts of water, and reduce to one; proceed as before. Also
Arney's jelly powder can be used instead of any of the above, by
dissolving in boiling water.


742. _Gold or Silver Jelly_, or both mixed, is made with eau de vie de
Dantzic, mixing the gold or silver leaves with a little jelly,
ornamenting the bottom of the mould with it, which place in ice till
set, fill with very clear calf's foot jelly. It can also be made by
cutting up a quarter of a sheet of gold leaf in a glass of pale brandy,
and use as the former.


743. _Maresquino Jelly_ is made by mixing six liqueur-glasses of
maresquino with a quart of clarified calf's foot jelly; peaches or other
fruits cut in quarters may be added.


744. _Rum-Punch, Curaçoa, Noyeau_, are made with the same quantity, and
as the former.


745. _French Jellies_ may be made with all kinds of fresh fruits,
filling the mould by degrees, the jelly first, let it set, then the
fruit, and so on till full, the mould being buried in ice; when ready to
serve dip in hot water, mix it well, and turn out carefully on your
dish. In the winter, preserved fruits in syrup may be used, decorating
the mould with them, pouring in a little jelly at a time until it is
cold, and fill up by degrees; proceed as above.


746. _Orange Jelly._--Procure five oranges and one lemon, take the rind
off two of the oranges, and half of the lemon, and remove the pith, put
them into a basin, and squeeze the juice of the fruit into it; then put
a quarter of a pound of sugar into a stewpan, with half a pint of water,
and set it to boil until it becomes a thick syrup, when take it off, and
add the juice and rind of the fruits, cover the stewpan, and place it
again on the fire; as soon as boiling commences skim well, and add one
glass of water by degrees, which will assist its clarification, let it
boil another minute, when add half an ounce of good isinglass, dissolved
as directed (No. 740), pass it through a jelly-bag, add a few drops of
prepared cochineal to give an orange tint, and then fill a mould and
place it on ice; turn out as before.


747. _Lemon Jelly_ is made the same way, only using six lemons and the
rind of one; serve quite white, and add a gill of Bucellas, or any very
pale wine.

Calf's foot stock, reduced and clarified, may be used instead of the
isinglass.


748. _Whipped Jellies_ are made from any of the above by placing some
warm jelly in a large bowl or basin on ice, and when nearly cold
whisking it; pour quickly in a mould set on ice and salt, where let
remain till ready for serving; dip it in lukewarm water, strike gently,
taking it in the right hand, place the left on it, turn it over, if it
shakes in the mould, let it gradually slip off your hand on the dish,
and remove the mould. All jellies are removed the same way.


749. _Bohemian Jelly Creams_ may be made of any flavor as jellies, and
either ripe fruit or with marmalade or jam, to which add the juice of
two lemons, a pint of water, in which one ounce and a half of isinglass
has been dissolved, or a pint of reduced clarified calf's foot jelly,
stir together in a bowl placed on ice; when nearly cold, stir quickly in
three parts of a pint of whipped cream, fill the mould, which should be
kept on ice, and turn out as before. A small bottle of Crosse and
Blackwell's jelly may be used instead of the isinglass or jelly, by
uncorking and placing the bottle in a stewpan of hot water till
dissolved, or pour it in a clean stewpan, and reduce it one third.
Cherries, raspberries, strawberries, currants, and gooseberries must be
passed through a sieve; but apricots, peaches, apples, pears, quinces,
pineapples, and marmalade may be used as they are. Creams may be made of
any flavor, and of either ripe fruits, jams, or marmalade; they are made
plain, thus: put the yolks of five eggs in a stewpan, with six ounces of
sugar, beat it up with a spoon until white; in another stewpan have a
pint of milk and one ounce of isinglass, boil ten minutes, stir
continually to prevent burning, flavor with vanilla or anything to your
taste, pour the milk on the eggs and sugar, put on the fire, stir well
together, do not let it boil, pass through a tammy into a round bowl;
when cold, set on ice, add two or three glasses of liqueur, keep
stirring its contents, and when setting, add three parts of a pint of
cream well whipped, mix well together, and pour into your mould in the
ice, and keep there till required; turn out as before.


750. _Charlotte Russe._--Line the inside of a plain round mould with
Savoy biscuits, cutting and placing them at the bottom to form a
rosette, standing them upright and close together, fill with any of the
above creams, omitting the fruits, place the mould in ice, let it remain
till ready to serve, turn over on a dish, and remove the mould.


751. _Strawberry Charlotte._--Line a plain round mould with ripe
strawberries by burying the mould in ice to the rim, and dipping the
strawberries in calf's foot jelly, first covering the bottom with them
cut in halves, the cut side downwards, afterwards building them up the
sides, the jelly (which must be cold, but not set) causing them to
adhere; when finished, fill it with the cream as directed for the
charlotte russe, and when ready to serve dip the mould in warm water,
and turn it out upon your dish. The cream must be very nearly set when
you pour it in, or it would run between the strawberries and produce a
bad effect.


752. _Chartreuse Cake of variegated Fruits._--Line a charlotte mould
very tastefully with various kinds of fruits (such as stoned cherries,
strawberries, pieces of peaches, apricots, &c.) by dipping them into
jelly, forming some design at the bottom of the mould, and building them
in reverse rows up the sides, having the mould previously placed in ice,
when well set, terminate as in the last.


753. _Blancmange._--To one quart of milk add one ounce of isinglass, a
quarter of a pound of sugar, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, a little
grated nutmeg, half of the peel of a lemon, and a bay-leaf, simmer over
a slow fire, stirring till the isinglass is dissolved, pass it through a
napkin into a basin, and pour into a mould. This can be made any color
or flavor that will not curdle the milk; the milk of bitter almonds may
be added to flavor it.


754. _Another._--Put into a bowl about a pint of clear calf's-foot jelly
warm, break six eggs, beat the yolks and pour them gradually into the
jelly, beating all the time; put on the fire and whisk till nearly
boiling, set it on ice or in cold water, keep stirring till nearly cold,
and fill your mould. You may add whatever flavor you like.


755. _Trifles_ should be made early in the day on which they are wanted;
take a stale Savoy cake, cut it in slices of one inch thick, and lay it
on the bottom of the dish; lay on that a thin layer of any kind of
marmalade, jam, or jelly, have some macaroons and ratafia cakes and lay
on, and cover the whole with some sponge cakes. For a dish nine inches
in diameter, mix two glasses of sherry, one of brandy, half a one of
rum, and the same of noyeau, and pour over, and let it remain until it
is well soaked, then pour over about one inch thick of rich custard;
put a pint of cream into a bowl, with some sifted sugar, a squeeze of a
lemon, and about a tablespoonful of the wine, &c., you have put on the
cake, whisk it well up. I use a trifle-blower, which saves some trouble;
I also use it for all whipped cream; and as the froth rises remove it
with a spoon on to a clean sieve, where let it drain, then place it on
the custard until it is high and handsome.

I have occasionally, when being in a hurry, and having no cream by me,
proceeded as above, and made the whip with the whites of eggs, and some
very white peach or egg-plum marmalade together, until it makes firm
froth or whip, which put on the custard; this may also be colored a nice
pink.

Trifles are generally considered unwholesome; I think it is because they
are often made too long before they are wanted, and no spirit is used in
the cake, the consequence is, the cream turns sour.

The remains of this make an excellent pudding.




PUDDINGS IN MOULDS.


     We have already, in the Comforts for Invalids, given several of the
     most simple receipts. I prefer using, in these kinds of puddings,
     as the principal ingredient, stale Savoy cake, or sponge cakes, or
     ladies' fingers, and, if I cannot get them, crumbs of stale bread;
     they may be made in a hundred different ways, according to the
     fancy and taste of the cook; the mould should be buttered and
     papered; they may be either baked or steamed.

     There is hardly any of our sex, from childhood to old age, but
     loves this truly English mixture, which appears upon our tables in
     a hundred different shapes, but always under the same name; and I
     should not fancy my labors complete if I did not produce a new one
     of my own invention; I therefore beg you to accept of the
     dedication, as I intend to call it--


756. _Pudding à la Eloise._--It is made as follows: take half a pound of
bread-crumbs, which put in a basin, with two ounces of sago, six ounces
of chopped suet, six eggs, five ounces of moist sugar, and a
tablespoonful of either orange, lemon, or apricot marmalade; mix all
well together, and ornament the bottom of the mould with green angelica
in syrup, and Smyrna raisins, and fill up with the mixture. Place the
mould in a stewpan containing water to half the height of the mould, and
boil gently for two hours; remove it from the mould, and serve with a
sauce made of a tablespoonful of either of the marmalades, or of currant
or apple jelly and two glasses of sherry poured over. This, I assure
you, received great praise from the little party of juveniles that I had
the other day.


757. _Pudding à la Reine._--Butter and paper the mould, fill up with
cake or bread-crumbs, when full pour some custard in until it will hold
no more; this may be flavored with any white liquor or essence you
please, for instance, citron (then it is called Pudding à la Reine au
Citron), or orange; use peel thinly sliced, and so on for any flavor you
may give it.


758. _Mince-meat Pudding._--Butter and paper the mould, then put a layer
of cake and a layer of mince-meat alternately, till full, then add the
custard.


759. _Demi-Plum Pudding._--Prepare the mould, then add a layer of plum
pudding, broken in pieces, that has been left from the previous day,
alternately, till full, fill up with custard, and steam or bake for
three minutes. The remains of any kind of pudding may be used thus.


760. _Trifle Pudding._--Prepare the mould, and fill with the same
ingredients as directed for trifle, taking care that the wine, &c., is
well soaked in before adding the custard. Steam or bake thirty minutes.
The sides and tops of these puddings may be ornamented with cut
angelica, hops, or candied orange or lemon-peel, in any fanciful design
you please, and they may be served with any kind of wine sauce.


761. _Carrot Pudding._--Mix in a bowl half a pound of flour, half a
pound of chopped suet, three quarters of a pound of grated carrot, a
quarter of a pound of raisins stoned, a quarter of a pound of currants,
and a quarter of a pound of sugar, brown or sifted white; place these in
a mould or dish, beat up two whole eggs, the yolks of four in a gill of
milk, grate a little nutmeg in it, and add it to the former; bake or
steam forty-five minutes.




PUDDINGS BOILED IN CLOTHS.


     The principal one, and the most celebrated, is the plum pudding.


762. _Plum Pudding._--Pick and stone one pound of the best Malaga
raisins, which put in a basin, with one pound of currants (well washed,
dried, and picked), a pound and a half of good beef suet (chopped, but
not too fine), three quarters of a pound of white or brown sugar, two
ounces of candied lemon-and orange-peel, two ounces of candied citron,
six ounces of flour, and a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, with a
little grated nutmeg; mix the whole well together, with eight whole eggs
and a little milk; have ready a plain or ornamented pudding-mould, well
butter the interior, pour the above mixture into it, cover a sheet of
paper over, tie the mould in a cloth, put the pudding into a large
stewpan containing boiling water, and let boil quite fast for four hours
and a half (or it may be boiled by merely tying it in a pudding-cloth
previously well floured, forming the shape by laying the cloth in a
round-bottomed basin and pouring the mixture in, it will make no
difference in the time required for boiling); when done, take out of the
cloth, turn from the mould upon your dish, sprinkle a little powdered
sugar over, and serve with the following sauce in a boat: Put the yolks
of three eggs in a stewpan, with a spoonful of powdered sugar, and a
gill of milk; mix well together, add a little lemon-peel, and stir over
the fire until becoming thickish (but do not let it boil), when add two
glasses of brandy, and serve separate.

The above sauce may be served, poured over the pudding, if approved of.

An excellent improvement to a plum pudding is to use half a pound of
beef marrow cut into small dice, omitting the same quantity of suet.


763. _Rowley Powley._--Roll out about two pounds of paste (No. 685),
cover it with any jam or marmalade you like, roll it over and tie it
loose in a cloth, well tying each end; boil one hour and serve, or cut
it in slices and serve with sauce over.


764. _Plum Bolster, or Spotted Dick._--Roll out two pounds of paste
(No. 685), having some Smyrna raisins well washed, and place them on it
here and there, roll over, tie in a cloth, and boil one hour, and serve
with butter and brown sugar.


765. _Plain Bolster._--Roll as above, sift some white or brown sugar
over it, the addition of a little powdered cinnamon to the sugar is an
improvement, roll over and proceed as before.


766. _Apple Dumplings._--Peel and cut out the core with a cutter, cover
it with paste (No. 685), tie in a cloth, and boil according to size;
these are all the better for being boiled and kept in the cloth, hung up
for four or six weeks, and re-warmed. They may likewise be baked. These
kind of boiled puddings, containing a large quantity of paste, should be
made with flour, in which is mixed one saltspoonful of culinary alkali
powder to four pounds of flour, which will cause them to be much
lighter.




PLAIN BAKED PUDDINGS IN DISHES.


767. _Marrow Pudding_ may be made in various ways; it is best with half
a pound of ladies' finger cakes, and a quarter of a pound of beef
marrow, chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of currants well cleaned,
half an ounce of candied lemon-peel, a little nutmeg, a tablespoonful of
powdered sugar, a saltspoonful of salt, and half a wineglassful of wine
or brandy: put these on a dish, and fill up with custard, having
previously put a border of paste on the rim; about half an hour will do
it.


768. _Custard Pudding._--Make a border of paste on the dish, and fill up
with custard, grate a little nutmeg on the top.

Any kind of fruit puddings with custard may be made in the same way, by
placing them in the custard, and sift some finely powdered sugar over,
before going to the baker's.


769. _Fruit Puddings_ are best made in a basin, the basin to be buttered
and lined with the paste, and then filled with the fruit, which cover
with the paste, the paste should be rolled round to the thickness of
half an inch, and when the fruit is in, drawn to the centre and
squeezed, and then tied up in a cloth kept on purpose, and boiled in
plenty of water; when done, which will be according to the nature of the
fruit you put in it, serve it either turned out of the basin or not. The
cover should be of the same thickness as the sides. Sugar should be
added before being covered.


770. _Apples_ should be pared, cored, and cut in quarters, and put in
with some sugar, a few cloves, and a bit of lemon-peel.


771. _Wall fruit--as Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, and Plums_,--should
he cut in half, and the kernels extracted from the stones and added, a
little cream, according to the size of the pudding, in which a little
grated cinnamon is added, may be put in at the same time as the fruit;
use but little sugar.


772. _Gooseberry, Rhubarb, Currants, red, white, and black, Raspberry
and Cherry, Blackberry, Whorts, Damson, and Greengage_--may all be made
in a similar way.


773. _Mince Meat._--Procure four pounds and a half of kidney beef suet,
which skin and chop very finely; have also a quarter of a pound of
candied lemon and orange-peel; the same of citron, a pound and a half of
lean cooked beef, and three pounds and a half of apples, the whole
separately, chopped very fine, and put into a large pan with four pounds
and a half of currants, well washed and picked, two ounces of mixed
spice, and two pounds of sugar; mix the whole well together with the
juice of eight lemons and a pint of brandy, place it in jars, and tie
down until ready for use; a pound and a half of Malaga raisins, well
stoned and chopped, may likewise be added to the above. It is ready for
use in a few days.


774. _Mince Pies._--Have a piece of puff-paste, which roll out to the
thickness of a penny-piece; have also a dozen tartlet-pans, which
lightly butter, cut out twelve pieces with a round cutter from the
paste, each the size of your tartlet-pans; lay them upon the slab, roll
the trimming of the paste again to the former thickness, cut twelve
other pieces, with which line the tartlet-pans; put a piece of
mince-meat, made as under, in each, wet them round, place on the lids,
pricking a hole with a pin in the centre, and close them well at the
edges; egg over lightly, and bake about twenty minutes in a moderate
oven.


775. _Fruit Pies._--These are made in pie-dishes, the top of which is
only covered with paste; the edge of the dish should be wetted, and a
strip of paste, about one inch wide and a quarter of an inch thick, put
on it, then fill the dish with the fruit, wet the paste on the edge, and
cover with paste, mark the edge with a roller, or the back of a knife.


776. _Apple Pie._--Pare, cut, and core sufficient apples to fill the
dish, put a small cup in the middle or not, as you like, one clove, to
every three apples, a pinch of pounded cinnamon, a small piece of
chopped lemon-peel, and sugar; bake according to size.


777. _Rhubarb and Apple_, or _Rhubarb and Gooseberry, Currant and
Raspberry, Cherry, Plum, Damson, Pear, Quince, Mulberry, Whortleberry_,
or _Whorts and Raspberry, Dewberry and Raspberry_, or _Cranberry_, may
all be made in the same way, in winter. A little whipped cream may be
placed in the top, for a variety.




REMOVES--SECOND COURSE.


778. _Chestnut Pudding, Nesselrode fashion._--Blanch four dozen
chestnuts in boiling water, skim and place them in the screen, when dry
take them out, and when cold put them into a mortar, with one pound of
sugar, and half a stick of vanilla, pound the whole well together, and
sift it through a fine wire sieve, put into a stewpan, with the yolks of
twelve eggs, beat them well together; in another stewpan have a quart
of milk, when boiling pour it over the other ingredients, mixing well,
and stir over a sharp fire until it begins to thicken and adheres to the
back of the spoon, then lay a tammy upon a large dish, pour the mixture
in and rub it through with two wooden spoons; when cold place it in a
freezing-pot and freeze as directed (No. 833); when frozen have a large
high ice-mould, which closes hermetically, have also two ounces of
currants and two ounces of Smyrna raisins, soaked in four glasses of
marasquino from the previous day, with four ounces of candied citron cut
in dice, put them into the freezing-pot, with a pint of whipped cream
and half the meringue preparation directed in No. 711; freeze the whole
well together and fill your mould, which bury in ice and salt until
ready to serve, then dip it into lukewarm water, and turn it out upon
your dish.


779. _Iced Cabinet Pudding._--Have ready prepared, and rather stale, a
sponge-cake as directed (No. 859), which cut into slices half an inch
thick, and rather smaller than the mould you intend making the pudding
in, soak them well with noyeau brandy; then lay some preserved dry
cherries at the bottom of the mould, with a few whole ratafias, lay one
of the slices over, then more cherries and ratafias, proceeding thus
until the mould is three parts full; have ready a quart of the custard
(No. 804), omitting half the quantity of isinglass, pour it lukewarm
into your mould, which close hermetically, and bury in ice and salt,
where let it remain at least two hours; when ready to serve dip it in
lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish; you have made about half
a pint of custard, which keep upon ice, pour over the pudding when ready
to serve, and sprinkle a few chopped pistachios over.


780. _White Almond Pudding Ices._--Blanch and skin a quarter of a pound
of sweet almonds, with six or eight bitter ones, when dry and cold,
place them in a mortar, with three quarters of a pound of sugar, and ten
or twelve leaves of candied orange-flowers, pound well, sift through a
wire sieve, and place it in a stewpan, with the yolks of eight eggs,
beat them well together; then in another stewpan have boiling a pint
and a half of milk, which pour over the other ingredients by degrees,
keeping it stirred, place it upon the fire, stirring until it thickens
and adheres to the back of the spoon, rub it through a tammy, add two
glasses of noyeau; when cold put into your freezing-pot to freeze, and
when half frozen add a pint and a half of whipped cream, when quite
frozen fill a mould, and serve as pudding Nesselrode fashion.


781. _Fruit, Chartreuse of, with Lemon Jelly._--Make a chartreuse of
fruit as directed (No. 752), in a round or oval mould, having a quantity
of fruit left; having also about a quart of orange jelly, which place
upon ice in a bowl, whisking it until on the point of setting, then
place a layer of it in the chartreuse, then a layer of the fruit, the
jelly, and so on until quite filled, place it upon ice, and when set and
ready to serve, dip in lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish;
serve garnished round with jelly in the skins of the oranges, cut in
quarters after it has set, or leave out the garnishing.


782. _Soufflé of Orange Iced._--Prepare about three parts of the
quantity of ice as directed in the last, to which, when half frozen, add
a pint and a half of whipped orange jelly just upon the point of
setting, beat the whole well together with the spatula, working it until
well frozen: have a dozen and a half of oranges, peeled, quartered, and
passed in sugar as directed for vol-au-vent, and place them in a basin
upon ice; when ready to serve, make a border of almond paste upon your
dish, in the centre of which put a little of the ice, then a layer of
oranges, then the same and oranges again, proceeding thus and finishing
in pyramid; garnish round with various small ripe fruits.


783. _Punch Cake Soufflé._--Break ten eggs, put the whites in a copper
bowl, and the yolks in a basin, with four tablespoonfuls of powdered
sugar, four of crushed ratafias, two of potato flour, a little salt, and
a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers, beat well together,
whip the whites, which stir in lightly with the mixture; well butter and
bread-crumb the interior of an oval plain mould, butter also and
bread-crumb a band of paper three inches broad, which tie round at the
top of the mould, pour in the mixture, and half an hour before ready to
serve stand it in a moderate oven (it will take about the above time to
bake), when done turn it out upon your dish; have ready a custard of
three yolks of eggs, to which you have added two glasses of essence of
punch, pour round the cake and serve.

The above mixture may be baked in twelve small moulds and dressed in
pyramid, but then they would require more sauce.




SOUFFLÉ.


     These dishes, being the last of the Dinner, require the greatest
     care and taste in executing, as, by the time they come on the
     table, the appetites of those around it are supposed to be
     satisfied; the eye and the palate require to be pleased, in order
     to sustain the enjoyments of the table; this is a period of dinner
     when another of the senses may be gratified by the introduction of
     music (and which is continually practised on the Continent), and
     all ought to be of a light and inviting character.

     Formerly it was the custom never to give a dinner without a soufflé
     as the last dish, or professionally speaking, remove. I do not
     dislike them, but they require the greatest care and nicety, and
     are rather difficult to perform in our old-fashioned kitchens, but
     easy in my new stove; at any rate I must give you the receipt.


784. _Soufflé of Lemon, or any other flavor._--Prepare a crust or
croustade of fine paste (No. 687), or water paste, by lining a raised
pie-mould with it, filling with bread-crumbs, and finishing the edges as
for a raised pie; bake it (of a very light brown color) about an hour in
a moderate oven, when done, empty out all the bread-crumbs without
taking it out of the mould, then tie a band of buttered paper (four
inches wide) round the top, and put it by until wanted. Put half a pound
of butter in a stewpan, with which mix three quarters of a pound of
flour without melting it, in another stewpan have rather more than a
quart of milk, into which, when boiling, put two sticks of vanilla,
place a cover upon the stewpan and let it remain until half cold, then
take out the vanilla, and pour the milk upon the butter and flour, stir
over a sharp fire, boiling it five minutes, then stir in quickly the
yolks of ten eggs, and sweeten with half a pound of sugar; when cold,
and an hour and a quarter before you are ready to serve, whip the
whites of the ten eggs very stiff, stir them in with the mixture
lightly, pour it into the croustade, and bake about an hour in a
moderate oven; if going too fast, and liable to be done before required,
open the oven door, as it ought to be served the moment it is done; when
ready to serve take it from the oven, detach the band of paper, take it
from the mould, dress it upon a napkin on a dish, and serve immediately.

These soufflés may be baked in a silver soufflé-case, if preferred, they
will take considerably less time in baking, but fall quicker after being
taken from the oven; any liquor or spirits may be introduced in soufflés
of this description if approved of.

This is large enough for a dinner of eighteen; a quarter of that
quantity will make a nice family one, baked in a plain tart-dish.


785. _Soufflé of Orange-flowers._--Proceed exactly as in the last, but
infusing an ounce of candied orange-flowers in the milk instead of the
vanilla.


786. _Soufflé of Rice Cream_ is made by using ground rice instead of the
common flour, finishing the same, and using any of the flavors directed
in the last three.


787. _Soufflé of Lemon._--Proceed as directed for soufflé à la vanille,
but infusing the rind of two lemons, free from pith, in the milk instead
of the vanilla.


788. _Omelette Soufflé._--Break six eggs, place the yolks in one basin
and the whites in another; add to the yolks three tablespoonfuls of lump
sugar, half one of fecule of potato or wheat flour, and ten drops of
orange-flower water; beat well together; whip the whites, beginning
rather slowly at first, increasing by degrees, until it forms a stiff
froth; then add the yolks, very gently beating up the whites as you add
it: have ready a silver or plated dish (for want of either, use tin),
and butter it well; place the mixture on it, and put it into a hot oven;
look that it rises; if so, run a knife round it; sift some sugar on it,
place it in the oven again, and serve, when well raised, immediately.


789. _Omelette Soufflé Sauté._--The mixture is prepared precisely as the
last, but the appearance and flavor are very different, being produced
by the different method of cooking them; put an ounce of butter into a
very clean omelette-pan over the fire; when melted, pour in half the
preparation, place it over a very brisk fire a few seconds, then twist
it round in the pan, which give a jerk, tossing the omelette half-way
over, stand it over the fire again, give the pan another jerk, tossing
the omelette again over, and turn it out upon your dish, set it in the
oven, and proceed the same with the remainder of the preparation, which
when done turn over upon the other; leave it in the oven about a quarter
of an hour, sprinkle sugar over, salamander and serve very quickly. The
butter the soufflé is sauté in gives it a superior flavor to the last.


790. _Cream Omelette Soufflé._--Proceed as in the last, deducting two of
the whites of eggs, and adding a gill of whipped cream, sauté and serve
as before.


791. _Soufflé Biscuits._--Put the yolks of five eggs in a basin, and the
whites in a copper bowl, add a pound of sugar, upon which you have
rubbed the rind of a lemon previous to pounding, beat it well with the
yolks of the eggs, then add a gill of cream, well whipped, and five
ounces of flour; stir all together lightly, whip the whites of the eggs
very stiff, and stir them into the preparation; have ready ten small
paper cases, fill each one three parts full, and fifteen minutes before
serving place them in a moderate oven; when done shake sugar over, dress
in pyramids, upon a napkin, and serve.


792. _Soufflé, or Whipped Cream._--Take one quart of cream, put it into
a bowl, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and orange-flower
powder of water, and have another bowl near you, over which you must
place a sieve to receive and drain the cream, whip the cream with a
whisk, or blow it up with a bellows made on purpose, and as it rises in
a froth, take it off with a spoon, and place it on the sieve; continue
till all is used, then put back the drainings, and continue until you
have none left, then put it into your dish or in glasses, or on a
trifle, and ornament with nonpareils, or with green citron peel or
angelica cut very fine and tastefully. It can likewise be iced.


793. _Coffee Soufflé Cream._--Take about a quarter of a pound of clean
raw coffee, heat it in a clean sauté-pan on the fire, so that it gets
hot through, but does not burn, then put it into one quart of cream, and
cover it up; let it cool as quickly as possible on ice, add five ounces
of powdered sugar, and proceed as above.


794. _Vanilla Soufflé Cream._--Cut a pod of vanilla small, pound it with
sugar, sift it through a fine sieve, and add it to your cream, or add
some drops of essence of vanilla, and proceed as directed above.


795. _Fondue of Parmesan and Gruyère, or any other grated Cheese._--Put
a quarter of a pound of butter and six ounces of flour in a stewpan, mix
them well together (without melting the butter) with a wooden spoon,
then add rather more than a pint of boiling milk, stir over the fire,
boil twenty minutes, then add the yolks of five eggs (stir in well),
half a pound of grated Parmesan, and a quarter of a pound of grated
Gruyère cheese; season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter do. of
pepper, and half a saltspoonful of cayenne; if too thick add two or
three whole eggs to give it the consistency of a soufflé, whip the five
whites of egg firm, stir them gently into the mixture, have ready a
croustade prepared as for the soufflé (No. 784), pour in the above
mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven; it will require a little longer
time than the soufflé; dish and serve the same.


796. _Neapolitan Fondue._--Prepare half of the mixture as in the last,
but previous to adding the whites of eggs stir in a quarter of a pound
of good macaroni blanched, and cut into pieces an inch in length; add
the whites, bake, and serve as before.


797. _Fondue (simple method)._--Put two ounces of Gruyère and two
ounces of Parmesan cheese (grated) into a basin (or, if you have not got
them, use English cheese), with a little salt, pepper, and cayenne, add
the yolks of six eggs, with a quarter of a pound of butter melted (mix
well), whip the whites of the six eggs, stir gently into the other
ingredients, fill small paper cases with it, bake about a quarter of an
hour in a moderate oven, dress upon a napkin, and serve very hot.


798. _Fondue of Stilton Cheese._--Put six ounces of butter and half a
pound of flour in a stewpan, rub well together with a wooden spoon, then
add a quart of warm milk, stir over the fire a quarter of an hour, then
add the yolks of eight eggs, three quarters of a pound of grated
Parmesan, and half a pound of Stilton cheese in small dice, season
rather highly with pepper, salt, and cayenne, add the white of the eggs
whipped very stiff, which stir in lightly; have a dozen and a half of
small paper cases, fill each one three parts full, place them in a
moderate oven, bake about twenty minutes; when done dress them upon a
napkin on your dish, and serve very hot.


799. _Cheese Raminole._--Put a gill of water in a stewpan, to which add
two ounces of Gruyère and the same quantity of Parmesan cheese (grated),
two ounces of butter, a little cayenne pepper, and salt if required, set
it upon the fire, and when boiling stir in two or three spoonfuls of
flour; keep stirring over the fire until the paste becomes dryish and
the bottom of the stewpan quite white, then add three or four eggs by
degrees, until forming a paste like No. 724, butter a baking-sheet well,
and lay the paste out in pieces upon it with a tablespoon, making them
long, and half the size of the bowl of the spoon; egg over, and lay a
small piece of Gruyère cheese upon each, put them into the oven about
twenty minutes before they are required; bake them a little crisp, and
serve very hot, dressed in pyramid upon a napkin.


800. _Puff Cheesecake._--Make half a pound of paste (No. 686), which
roll very thin, have ready some grated Parmesan and Gruyère cheese
mixed, throw half a handful over the paste, which fold in three, roll it
out to the same thickness again, cover again with cheese, proceeding
thus until you have used the whole of the cheese (half a pound), then
cut them into any shapes you like with pastry cutters, set on a wet
baking-sheet, egg them over, bake a nice color in a moderate oven, dress
in pyramid upon a napkin on a dish, and serve very hot.


801. _Cheese Soufflé, or Diablotins._--Put a gill of milk in a stewpan,
with two ounces of butter; when boiling, stir in two spoonfuls of flour,
keep stirring over the fire until the bottom of the stewpan is dry, then
add four eggs by degrees, half a pound of Gruyère, and half a pound of
grated Parmesan cheese; mix well in, season with pepper, salt, and
cayenne rather highly, mould the paste into little balls with the
forefinger against the side of the stewpan containing it, drop them into
hot lard; fry of a nice light brown, dress in pyramid upon a napkin, and
serve very hot; a quarter of that quantity may of course be made.


802. _Turban of Almond Cake Iced._--This is a very good and useful
second course remove. Make half a pound of puff paste, give it nine
rolls, rolling it the last time to the thickness of a penny-piece, have
ready blanched and chopped half a pound of sweet almonds, which put in a
basin with half a pound of powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs, or
a little more if required; spread it over the paste the thickness of a
shilling, and with a knife cut the paste into pieces two inches and a
half in length and nearly one in breadth, place them upon a
baking-sheet, and bake nicely a very light brown color, in a moderate
oven, dress them on a stiff border of any kind of stiff jam or
marmalade, so as to form a large crown according to the size you require
it; then fill the interior with vanilla cream, or any other, iced, but
not too hard, and bring it up to a point; the cake may be cut in any
shape you fancy, but never make them too large.


803. _Turban of Pastry._--Observe that any kind of pastry fourrée, as
No. 712, or meringue, No. 711, will, if dished as above, with iced
cream, make a very nice remove.


804. _Custard for Puddings._--Take one pint of milk, to which add the
yolks of two eggs, and beat up, add a quarter of a pound of sugar, half
a saltspoonful of powdered cinnamon and nutmeg, and a bay-leaf. For
mould puddings, the mould should be filled first with the bread, &c.,
and the custard added; should it be wanted alone in glasses, it must
then be put into a saucepan on the fire until it nearly boils, keep
stirring it well during the time.


805. _Batter for Fritters._--Take half a pound of flour, one ounce of
butter, which melt, the whites of three eggs well beaten, half a glass
of beer, and enough water to make a thick batter.




DESSERT.




LETTER No. XVI


     MA CHERE ELOISE,--Remembering your admiration of the small dessert
     I put on the table at my last birth-day party, you will, I am
     confident, feel interested in the description of desserts in
     general, and I will give you a few more hints and receipts, which
     will tend both to economize as well as gratify the palate and
     sight; and very different in style from some of our visitors, who,
     though they spend their money freely enough when they give their
     Christmas party, but still keep up the old style of covering their
     table with dry sweet stuff, and, in the way of fruits, display
     oranges in their original golden skin, Ribston pippins in their
     mournful ones, American apples with their vermilion cheeks, large
     winter pears in their substantial state, the whole ornamented and
     crowned with laurel, no doubt to signify their immortality, being
     present upon almost every table from year to year, especially the
     unsociable pear, which no teeth can ever injure, but, on the
     contrary, it may injure the teeth. A very comical friend assured
     us, as a fact, that he had met one of the before-mentioned pears in
     three different parties in less than a week, having, for
     curiosity's sake, engraved his initial with a penknife upon one he
     was served with at the first party. "And, talk about pine-apples,"
     said he, "many times I have had the pleasure of meeting with the
     same, and even as much as twice in less than twelve hours, quite in
     a different direction, that is, on a dinner-table in the west-end
     about eight in the evening, and, at midnight, on the supper-table
     of a civic ball; at dinner being perched on an elevated stand in
     the centre of a large wide table, so much out of reach that it
     would almost require a small ladder to get at it; and I must say
     that every guest present paid due respect to his high position, and
     never made an assault, or even an attempt to disturb, much less to
     uncrown his fruity majesty, though, now and then, one of the fair
     guests, as a compliment, would remark to the amphitrion, that she
     never saw in her life a finer pine-apple. 'Very fine, very fine
     indeed, madam! will you allow me to offer you part of an orange?'
     'Not any more, I thank you, sir,' being the reply."

     On the supper table this aristocratic and inaccessible pine still
     holds its kingly rank, and is still proudly perched on the top of a
     sideboard, surrounded by Portugal or Rhenish grapes, and to prevent
     its dethronement by removing the grapes the intelligent waiter has
     carefully tied it to the ornament that supports it. Our friend, who
     is a literary gentleman, has promised to write a small brochure, to
     be called the 'Memoirs of a Pineapple in London,' which I am
     confident, will not fail of being very interesting, having had the
     advantage of mixing in so many different societies.

     I know, dearest, what will be your feeling after the perusal of the
     above, that I have given vent to a little scandal; but it is the
     truth, and of almost daily occurrence, so that there is no mystery
     about it. I do not mean that it is very general, but is certainly
     often practised; for my part, you know my style: I never attempt to
     astonish my guests with extensive wonders of nature and art in any
     shape of eatable, but simply follow the middle prices, by which I
     always can procure the best quality of article in comestibles; and
     nothing pleases me more when I give a party than that every dish on
     the table should be partaken of, and still more so when entirely
     eaten. I do not approve of meanness; though a great economist, I
     abhor it as much as I do extravagance; and we never, I assure you,
     give a single party without being perfectly satisfied that it does
     not interfere with our daily comforts, that is, as regards
     financial matters. For dessert in summer I confine it entirely to
     fresh fruit, compotes, ices, and a few almond cakes, and Savoy
     biscuits. Fruits, preserves, oranges, compotes, and biscuits in
     winter.

     The list of names I here inclose to you consists of moderately
     priced articles, and will enable you to make a good appearance for
     your dessert, and at a trifling expense.

     The first thing I wish you to be initiated in is, what is called in
     France "compote," which may be made almost from any kind of fruits,
     especially apples, pears, apricots, plums, greengages, peaches,
     cherries, gooseberry, oranges, &c. It was on my second visit to
     Havre that I took lessons in confectionery; I paid as much as ten
     shillings per lesson to M. Bombe Glacé, that being the "nom de
     guerre" of the first confectioner there; but you know, dearest, how
     quick I am learning, especially anything in the way of cookery. I
     really must say I do love cooking, so you may fancy that the clever
     artist, Monsieur le Confiseur, had not very many of our
     demi-souvereign, as he called them, from us; my Mr. B. thought at
     the time that it was quite ridiculous and extravagant to pay so
     much for a trifle like that; but let me tell you, dear, he had not
     then tasted them; but now all the wall-and tree-fruits from our
     garden, if I were to follow entirely his taste, would be converted
     into compote, he being so remarkably fond of it.




COMPOTE.


     Procure a very clean tin stewpan or a small sugar-pan; it being
     more preferable for boiling sugar, why I cannot tell, never having
     asked the reason, being so anxious to know other things which I
     thought more serviceable. Since I have tried it in a common
     stewpan, it has answered very well; and knowing by experience that
     your culinary laboratory is still in its innocent infancy, you
     might be prevented from making an immediate experiment by waiting
     till you could get one; you may use that three-pint size stewpan
     for it, which I lent you for a pattern about three weeks ago, and
     after which I shall feel extremely gratified by its reappearance on
     my kitchen shelf at No. 5, being out of the middle row of them,
     because every time I enter my kitchen it puts me in mind of a very
     pretty woman minus one of her front teeth.

     Excuse me if I claim it of you, but I want to teach you punctuality
     as well as economy.


806. _Winter Pears._--To put an end to its long and hard existence, I
would cut it into six or eight pieces lengthwise, peel and cut out the
cores, giving them a nice shape; then put them into a stewpan, with a
quarter of a pound of sugar, a gill of port wine, the thin rind of a
lemon, a little cinnamon, and half a pint of water; let them simmer
gently about an hour or until tender; when done, put them into a basin,
reduce the syrup until thickish if required, and pour over; when cold
they are ready to serve.

A little prepared cochineal mixed with the syrup very much improves
their appearance. A dish composed half of these and half of the white
has a very pretty appearance. By placing a layer of marmalade among
them, at the bottom of the dish, you may dish them in crown, or any
shape you like.


807. _Compote of Peaches._--Put half a pound of lump sugar (broken into
small pieces) into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pint of water, which
set upon the fire to boil until forming a thickish syrup; you have
previously cut four ripe peaches in halves, lay them carefully in the
boiling syrup to simmer a couple of minutes, then carefully remove them
with a colander-spoon on to a hair-sieve to drain, when remove the
skins, and dress the peaches neatly upon your dessert-dish; reduce the
syrup until of a good consistency, and when cold pour it over, and they
are ready to serve.


808. _Compote of Apples._--Procure six nice ripe apples, but not too
large, which peel, cut in halves, and cut out the cores, rub each piece
over with a little lemon, and put them into boiling syrup made as last
directed, but with the juice of a lemon, and the rind cut into small
fillets added; let the apple stew until tender, but not broken, when
drain them upon a sieve, reduce the syrup; and when both are cold, dress
the apple neatly upon your dish, and pour the syrup over. A little green
angelique, cut in various shapes, will make a pretty ornament on any
white compote.


809. _Compote of small Apples, served whole._--Select nine small golden
pippins, each as nearly as possible of an equal size, and with a long
round vegetable cutter, of the size of a sixpenny piece, cut out the
cores, then peel them very thin and smooth, rub their surface with lemon
juice, and throw them into a basin of spring water; have ready boiling
half a pint of syrup, made as before directed, to which add the rind of
a lemon (cut into thin strips), and the juice, lay in the apples, which
let simmer very gently until quite tender, when drain them upon a
hair-sieve, and reduce the syrup until thickish; when quite cold, dress
the apples upon your dish, five at the bottom, three upon them, and one
upon the top; when ready to serve, pour the syrup over.


810. _Compote of Green Apricots._--Have a pottle of green apricots, from
which pick off all the stalks, and throw them into a stewpan containing
a quart of boiling water, and let them boil very fast for ten minutes,
and drain them upon a sieve: have ready half a pint of syrup made as
before directed, in which boil them until tender, but not to break, and
thicken the syrup, pour the whole into a basin until quite cold; should
the syrup then be too thin, strain it off into the stewpan to reduce to
a proper consistency, pouring it again over the apricots when quite
cold. Dish tastefully.


811. _Compote of Greengages._--Procure twelve greengages, not quite
ripe, each of which cut into halves; have ready boiling half a pint of
syrup, as before directed, into which put half the fruit, let it simmer
a couple of minutes, then remove them with a colander-spoon, draining
them upon a sieve; then put in the remainder, with which proceed in the
same manner; remove the skins, put the fruit into a basin, reduce the
syrup until thickish, and when cold, pour it over the fruit, which is
then ready to serve.

Any description of plums may be dressed in precisely the same method.


812. _Compote of Apricots._--Procure six very fine ripe apricots, which
divide into halves; have ready half a pint of boiling syrup reduced
quite thick, in which let them simmer about a minute, when pour the
whole into a basin until cold; should the fruit not be quite ripe, they
would require longer time to simmer. I frequently break the stones and
blanch the kernels to add to the compote; they are a great improvement,
also, to cherries and plums.


813. _Compote of Cherries._--Take a pound of fine cherries, not too
ripe, and cut away half the stalks with a pair of scissors; have half a
pint of syrup, which boil until very thick, when add half of the
cherries, and boil them two or three minutes, take them out with a
colander-spoon, drain them upon a sieve, and proceed the same with the
remaining half; reduce the syrup until very thick, dress the cherries
pyramidically upon your dish, stalks uppermost, and when the syrup is
cold, pour it over, and serve.


814. _Compote of Oranges._--Make a pint of syrup as before; have six
fine oranges, which skin carefully, scraping off as much of the pith as
possible; divide each orange into eight entire pieces, without breaking
the delicate skin with which they are divided; when the syrup is very
thick, put in the pieces of oranges, which simmer gently for five
minutes, when take them out with a colander-spoon, and drain them upon a
sieve; reduce the syrup very quickly until thickish, and when cold, pour
it over the oranges, which will be then ready to serve. Half the rind of
the oranges, free from pith, cut into small fillets, are a great
improvement boiled in the syrup.


815. _Compote of French Plums._--Put half a pound of French plums into
a stewpan, with a gill of water, the same of wine, the rind of half a
lemon cut thin, two cloves, and a good spoonful of sugar, let them
simmer about twenty minutes, and when cold take out the lemon and
cloves, and they are ready to serve.




COMPOTES OF FRUIT SIMPLIFIED.


     As I usually make them when alone, or, if not, for a very
     ceremonious dinner-party. The whole of the following must be done
     over a very slow fire.


816. _Pears._--Cut six ripe middling-sized pears in halves, peel neatly,
cut out the cores, and put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a
pound of powdered sugar, the juice of a lemon, the thin rind cut into
strips, and a very little drop of water, set them upon the fire, stewing
them until tender; they will form their own syrup; put them in a basin
until cold, when they are ready to serve.


817. _Pippins._--Peel and cut four apples into quarters, take out the
cores, and stew them as directed for pears, but using the rind of an
orange instead of the rind of a lemon.


818. _Oranges._--Prepare four oranges as directed (No. 814), which put
into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and the
juice of another orange; set them upon the fire, and when the syrup
becomes sufficiently thick to adhere to the pieces of orange, they are
done; when cold, dress them in a circle upon your dish, with strips of
angelica between each.


819. _Apricots._--Cut eight unripe apricots into quarters, which put
into a stewpan, with four ounces of sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a
drop of sherry, set them upon the fire, shaking the stewpan round
occasionally, until the apricots are tender, but not broken; a very few
minutes would be sufficient to stew them, and when cold, they are ready
to serve.

For Peaches, proceed exactly the same; but if too ripe, they must be
done as directed for compote of peaches.


820. _Greengages and other Plums._--Put twelve into a stewpan with a
quarter of a pound of sugar, the juice of a lemon and a little drop of
water, set them over the fire, shaking the stewpan round occasionally
until the fruit is tender, but not mashed; when cold, dress them in
pyramid, and pour the syrup over.


821. _Cherries._--Cut the stalks of a pound of cherries rather short,
and put the fruit into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of sugar and
the juice of a lemon; place them over the fire (occasionally shaking the
pan round), letting them simmer about two minutes, when take them out
with a colander-spoon, and put them into a basin until cold, reduce the
syrup, to which add sufficient isinglass to set it as a jelly, and pour
it upon a large plate until set, when dress the cherries pyramidically,
just dip the bottom of the plate containing the syrup into warm water,
and turn it as a jelly over the cherries.


822. _Green Gooseberries._--Put a pint of green gooseberries into a
stewpan with two ounces of sugar and a little sherry, place them over a
sharp fire, as the quicker they cook the better color they will keep;
when tender but not broken, pour them into a basin, and when cold they
are ready to serve.


823. _Red Rhubarb._--The small forced rhubarb (Mitchell's Royal Albert)
is by far the best. Cut about half a pound of it into pieces half an
inch in length, which put into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of
powdered sugar and a wineglassful of water; set it over a sharp fire,
occasionally shaking the stewpan round, and when quite tender pour it
into a basin until cold; when it is ready to serve, should the syrup be
too thin, add sufficient isinglass to set it, and when cold dress it
pyramidically upon your dish.


824. _Currants and Raspberries._--Pick the stalks from a pint of
currants, which put into a stewpan with half a pint of raspberries and a
quarter of a pound of powdered sugar; set them upon the fire, shaking
the stewpan round occasionally until boiling, when pour them into a
basin to cool. Should the syrup be too thin, which would be the case if
the fruit is too ripe, drain the fruit from it, reduce it by boiling,
and when cold, pour it again over the fruit, which will then be ready to
serve.


825. _Royal Iceing for Cakes._--Have ready a pound of the best white
sugar, which pound well and sift through a silk sieve, put it into a
basin with the whites of three eggs, beat well together with a wooden
spoon, adding the juice of half a lemon, keep beating well until it
becomes very light and hangs in flakes from the spoon (if it should be
rather too stiff in mixing, add a little more white of egg, if, on the
contrary, too soft, a little more sugar), it is then ready for use where
required.


826. _Chocolate Iceing for Cakes_ is made similar to the last, but when
finished have ready a piece of the common chocolate, which melt in a
stewpan over the fire, keeping it stirred; when quite melted stir some
of it in with the iceing until you have obtained the color required,
moistening the iceing with a little more white of egg, and use where
directed.


827. _Sugar in Grains_ is made by pounding a quantity of sugar in a
mortar, and sifting off all the fine through a hair-sieve, then again
what remains in the sieve put into a rather coarse wire sieve, and that
which passes through is what is meant by the above term.


828. _How to give color to Sugar._--Prepare about half a pound of the
sugar as in the last, which put upon a baking-sheet; have a spoonful of
the essence of spinach, which stir in with the sugar until every gram is
stained, then put them in a warmish place to dry, but not too hot: to
color them red, use a little prepared cochineal or liquid carmine,
instead of the spinach, and proceed exactly the same: sugar may be made
of other colors by the use of indigo, rouge, saffron, &c.; but not being
partial to such a variety of coloring, I have merely given the red and
the green, which, with the white, I consider to be sufficient for any of
the purposes for which they are used.


829. _Sugar of Vanilla._--Chop a stick of well-frosted vanilla very
small, and put it into a mortar, with half a pound of lump sugar, pound
the whole well together in a mortar, sift through a hair sieve, and put
by in a bottle or jar, corking it up tight, and using where required.


830. _Sugar of Lemon._--Rub the rind of some fresh lemons upon a large
piece of sugar, and as it discolors the part upon which it is rubbed
scrape it off with a knife; when you have obtained a sufficient
quantity, dry a little in the screen, and bottle for use where required.
Orange sugar may be made in the same manner, substituting very red
oranges for the lemons.


831. _How to make clear Sugar._--Break three pounds of fine white sugar,
the hardest and closest grained is the best, put it into a sugar-pan,
with three pints of clear spring water, set over a sharp fire, and when
beginning to boil place it at the corner to simmer, and squeeze in the
juice of half a lemon, skim well and reduce to two thirds, it is then
ready to use for jellies.

If not able to obtain the best quality of sugar, it would be necessary
to use white of eggs as an assistance in the clarification, by putting
the white of one egg in a basin and whipping it well with a pint of cold
water, add half of it to the sugar, whipping it well in, let simmer,
adding the remainder by degrees whilst simmering, and passing it through
a fine cloth into a basin. The boiling of sugar is divided into seven
different degrees, which may be ascertained by the following
directions:--

The first degree is known by dipping a copper skimmer into it whilst
boiling, turning it over two or three times, if the sugar falls from it
in sheets it has attained the first degree.

The second is known by boiling your sugar rather longer, dipping your
finger and thumb into cold water, then your finger into the boiling
sugar, putting your finger and thumb together, and again opening them,
it will form a kind of thread; if it is too weak boil a little longer,
this is the most useful degree for fruit or water ices.

The third degree is attained by boiling it a little longer, and trying
it in the same manner, upon the thread baking, should it form a kind of
pearl, it has attained the above degree; the sugar in boiling would also
be covered with a quantity of small bubbles resembling pearls.

The fourth degree is attained by boiling it still longer, dip a skimmer
into it, turn, take out and blow it hard, when the sugar will form
little bladders and float in the air, this degree is called the soufflé.

For the fifth degree boil still longer, trying it in the same manner,
but blowing harder, the bladders will be larger and adhere together,
forming feathers; this degree is called la plume, or the feather.

The sixth is called le petit casée, and is obtained by boiling the sugar
a little longer: to know this degree have a pint of cold water in a
basin, into which you have put a piece of ice, dip your finger into it,
then into the boiling sugar, and then into the water again, take the
piece which adheres to the finger and bite, if rather crisp, but
sticking to the teeth, it has attained that degree.

The seventh and last requires great attention, to attain it boil rather
longer, dip your finger in as before, if it cracks and does not at all
adhere to the teeth in biting it is done, take from the fire, and it is
ready for use for making any kind of sugar ornament.

When intended for such purposes, however, add a little tartaric acid
when it arrives to the degree la plume and pour it into a smaller
sugar-pan, allowing it to reach the rims, it will be then unable to burn
round the sides as if in a larger pan; if such a thing should, however,
happen in a larger pan, wipe the interior of the pan round with a sponge
previously dipped in cold water, or it would discolor the sugar.

Ornaments of spun sugar I have a very great dislike to for a dinner;
but, if required, the sugar must be boiled to the last degree. Should
the sugar grain it may be brought back by adding more water, and when
dissolved, boiling over again; in spinning sugar you must keep the bulk
of it in a warm temperature, having a little in a smaller pan for use,
which keep in a melted state by placing it in a bain-marie of hot water,
or in a hot closet.


832. _Silk Thread, or Spun Sugar._--Having boiled your sugar to the
seventh degree, as in the last, oil the handle of a wooden spoon, tie
two forks together, the prongs turned outwards, dip them lightly into
the sugar, take out and shake them to and fro, the sugar running from
them over the spoon forming fine silken threads, proceeding thus until
you have as much as you require, take it from the spoon and form it with
your hands into whatever may be directed for the garnishing of any dish,
not, however, too thick, or it would look heavy. An experienced hand
would prefer doing it from the lip of the sugar-pan.

Other kinds of ornaments from sugar are made in a similar manner by
oiling a mould or shape and running fillets of the sugar from the lip of
the pan over it as tastefully as possible, but as I have not referred to
it in this work I will not enter into its details. These are more fit
for suppers than dinners.


833. _Vanilla Ice Cream._--Put the yolks of twelve eggs in a stewpan,
with half a pound of sugar, beat well together with a wooden spoon, in
another stewpan have a quart of milk, and when boiling throw in two
sticks of vanilla, draw it from the fire, place on the lid and let
remain until partly cold, pour it over the eggs and sugar in the other
stewpan, mix well, and place it over the fire (keeping it stirred) until
it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a
tammy into a basin, let remain until cold, then have ready a pewter
freezing-pot in an ice-pail well surrounded with ice and salt;[8] put
the above preparation into it, place on the lid, which must fit rather
tightly, and commence twisting the pot round sharply, keeping it turned
for about ten minutes, when take off the lid, and with your spatula
clear the sides of the interior of the pot, place the lid on again, turn
the pot ten minutes longer, when again clear the sides and beat the
whole well together, until smooth, it being then about half frozen, then
add four glasses of noyeau or maresquino and a pint and a half of cream
well whipped, beat the whole well together, place the lid upon the top,
keep twisting it round a quarter of an hour, clear well from the sides,
beat again well together, proceeding thus until the whole is frozen into
a stiff but smooth and mellow substance; should you require to keep it
some time before serving, pour the water which has run from the ice out
of the pail, and add fresh ice and salt; when ready to serve work it up
smoothly with your spatula, fill the mould and proceed as No. 778.


834. _Coffee Ice Cream._--Proceed exactly as in the last, but omitting
the noyeau or maresquino, and making an infusion with coffee as directed
(No. 40) instead of vanilla.


835. _Ice of Chocolate_ is made similar to the vanilla ice cream, but
omitting the vanilla and liqueur, in the room of which scrape a quarter
of a pound of chocolate, place it in a stewpan over the fire and keep
stirring until melted, then have ready boiling a quart of milk, which
mix with the chocolate by degrees, finish with eggs and sugar, and
freeze as before.


836. _Ice of Pine-apple._--Procure a rather small pine-apple, take off
the rind, which reserve, and cut the apple into pieces an inch in length
and about the thickness of a quill, place them in a sugar-pan, with half
a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, set it upon the fire and
reduce to a rather thickish syrup, have ready a pint and a half of milk
upon the fire, into which, when boiling, throw the rind of the
pine-apple, cover it over and let infuse ten minutes; in another stewpan
have the yolks of twelve eggs, to which add the milk by degrees
(previously straining it), place over the fire, keeping it stirred until
adhering to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammy into a
basin, add the syrup and pine-apple, and freeze it as in the last,
adding a pint and a half of whipped cream; when half frozen, use where
directed.


837. _Lemon Ice Cream._--Take the rind from six lemons as thin as
possible and free from pith, squeeze the juice of the lemons into a
sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, place it
upon the fire and reduce until rather a thickish syrup, have a pint and
a half of milk upon the fire, into which, when boiling, throw the rind
of the lemons, cover over and let remain until half cold; in another
stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs (to which you have added an ounce
of sugar), with which mix the milk by degrees, and stir over the fire
till it adheres to the back of the spoon, when stir in the syrup and
pass it through a tammy; when cold, freeze as directed (No. 833), adding
a pint of whipped cream when half frozen.


838. _Orange Ice Cream._--Proceed precisely as in the last, but using
the juice and rind of ten oranges instead of lemons as there directed.


839. _Apricot Ice Cream._--Procure a dozen and a half of fine ripe
apricots, which cut in halves, take out the stones, which break,
extracting the kernels, which blanch in very hot water and skin, then
put them with the apricots into a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar
and half a glassful of water, let them boil until almost forming a
marmalade, when put them by in a basin, have the yolks of twelve eggs in
a stewpan, with which mix by degrees a pint and a half of milk, set over
the fire, keeping it stirred until thick enough to adhere to the back of
the spoon, when pass it through a tammy into a basin, add the syrup and
apricots, and, when cold, three glasses of noyeau, freeze as in No. 833,
and, when half frozen, add a pint of good whipped cream.


840. _Strawberry Ice Cream._--Procure about two pounds of fine ripe
strawberries, which pick and rub through a hair-sieve with a wooden
spoon, obtaining all the juice and pulp of the strawberries, with which
mix half a pound of powdered sugar and put it by in a basin; in a
stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs, with which mix by degrees a pint
and a half of milk, stir over the fire until it becomes thickish,
adhering to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammy, and
when cold add the juice from the strawberries and three glasses of
maraschino, freeze it as directed (No. 833), adding a pint of whipped
cream when half frozen and sufficiently prepared; cochineal, to give it
a strawberry color, if approved of.


841. _Marmalade of Apple._--Peel and cut thirty apples in slices, taking
out the cores, and, if for preserving, to every pound of fruit put three
quarters of a pound of broken sugar (but, if for immediate use, half a
pound would be quite sufficient), place the whole in a large
preserving-pan, with half a spoonful of powdered cinnamon and the rind
of a lemon chopped very fine, set the pan over a sharp fire, stirring it
occasionally until boiling, when keep stirring until becoming rather
thick; it is then done: if for immediate use, a smaller quantity would
be sufficient, which put by in a basin until cold; but if to keep any
time put it in jars, which cover over with paper, and tie down until
wanted.


842. _Marmalade of Apricots._--Stone about eight pounds of ripe fleshy
apricots, break the stones, and blanch and skin the kernels, which with
the apricots put into a preserving-pan, add six pounds of sugar and
place it over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally until boiling, when
keep stirring until becoming rather thick, take it off, put it in jars,
and when cold tie paper over, and put by until ready for use.


843. _Quince Jam Purée._--Procure a sieve of fine ripe quinces, which
peel and cut in four, taking out the cores, place them in a large
preserving-pan and cover with cold water; set upon the fire, and when
boiling and tender to the touch, place them in a large sieve to drain
one hour, pass them through a tammy, then have ready a corresponding
weight of sugar boiled to the sixth degree (No. 831) in the
preserving-pan, to which add the purée of quinces, keep stirring over
the fire till forming thin sheets, drop a little upon the cover of a
stewpan, if it sets quickly take it from the fire, put it in small jars,
and let remain a day until quite cold, when tie them down, and put by
until wanted.


844. _Apricot Marmalade Jam._--Procure a quantity of very ripe
apricots, each of which cut into four or six pieces, break the stones
and blanch the kernels, put the apricots in a preserving-pan with a
small quantity of water, boil them until quite tender, when pass them
through a sieve; to every pound of fruit have three quarters of a pound
of sugar (in a preserving-pan) boiled to the sixth degree (No. 831), add
the apricots with their kernels, and keep stirring over the fire, until
forming thin transparent sheets, try when done as in the last, and put
away in pots. The marmalade would be still more transparent if you were
to peel the apricots first, but then you would lose some of their
delicious flavor.


845. _Marmalade of Cherries._--Procure a sieve of bright Kentish
cherries, pull out the stalks and stones, and put the fruit in a
preserving-pan, place over the fire, keeping it stirred until reduced to
two-thirds; have in another preserving-pan, to every pound of fruit,
half a pound of sugar boiled to the sixth degree (No. 831), into which
pour the fruit when boiling hot, let reduce, keep stirring until you can
just see the bottom of the pan, when take it from the fire, and fill
your jars as before.

A plainer way is to take off the stalks and stone the fruit, place them
in a pan over a sharp fire, and to every pound of fruit add nearly a
pound of sugar, keep stirring until reduced as above, and let it get
partly cold in the pan before filling the jars.


846. _Strawberry Jam._--Pick twelve pounds of very red ripe
strawberries, which put into a preserving-pan, with ten pounds of sugar
(broken into smallish pieces), place over a sharp fire, keep continually
stirring, boiling it until the surface is covered with clearish bubbles,
try a little upon a cover, if it sets, fill the jars as before.


847. _Raspberry Jam._--Pick twelve pounds of raspberries, and pass them
through a fine sieve to extract the seeds, boil as many pounds of sugar
as you have pounds of fruit to the sixth degree (No. 831), when add the
pulp of the fruit, keep stirring over the fire, reducing it until you
can just see the bottom of the pan, take it from the fire, and put it
into jars as before.


848. _Jelly of Apple._--Cut six dozen of sound rennet apples in
quarters, take out all the pips, put them into a sugar-pan, just cover
them with cold water, and place over the fire, let boil until the apples
become quite pulpy, when drain them upon a sieve, catching the liquor in
a basin, which afterwards pass through a new and very clean jelly-bag;
to every pint of liquor have one pound of sugar, which boil to the sixth
degree as directed (831); when, whilst hot, mix in the liquor from the
apple with a very clean skimmer; to prevent it boiling over keep it
skimmed, lift the skimmer occasionally from the pan, and when the jelly
falls from it in thin sheets, take it up and fill the pots as before;
the smaller pots are the best adapted for jellies.


849. _Jelly of Quince._--Proceed exactly as directed in the last, but
using quinces instead of apples.


850. _Sweetmeat of Currant Jelly._--Put half a sieve of fine red
currants in a large stewpan, with a gallon of white currants and a
gallon of raspberries, add a quart of water, place over the fire, keep
stirring, to prevent them sticking to the bottom, and let boil about ten
minutes, pour them into a sieve to drain, catching the juice in a basin
and draining the currants quite dry, pass the juice whilst hot through a
clean jelly-bag, have a pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and
proceed precisely as directed for apple jelly. Should you have time to
pick the currants from the stalks previous to boiling, you would lose
that bitter flavor, and have less difficulty in making your jelly clear.


851. _Currant Jelly_ is made precisely as in the last, omitting the
raspberries, the difference being in the use; the last being adapted for
the garnishing of pastry, and this to use for sauces, or to serve with
hares, venison, or any other meat, where required.

A more simple method of making currant jelly is to rub the fruit through
a sieve, and afterwards squeeze it through a fine linen cloth, put it
into a preserving-pan with, to every pint of juice, three quarters of a
pound of white sugar; place over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally
with a skimmer, keeping it well skimmed; it is done when dropping in
sheets as before from the skimmer. For my own part, I prefer this last
simple method, being quicker done, and retaining more of the full
freshness of the fruit.

     It is not my intention to give a description of the various methods
     of preserving fruits, which belongs to the confectionery
     department; that I shall do in the Letters from the Farm; I have,
     however, given the few foregoing receipts, they being required for
     reference from various parts of this work, and being all that are
     required for the garnishing of dishes for the second course;
     various other fruits may, however, be made into marmalades and
     jellies by following those few simple directions.




SALADS OF VARIOUS FRUITS.


     You will perceive, my dear Eloise, that there is no end to the
     variation of dishing fruits for desserts; the following being more
     simple than any, and within the reach of almost every individual.


852. _Salad of Oranges._--Select four good oranges, the thinnest rind
ones are preferable; cut them crosswise into slices double the thickness
of a crown-piece, dress them round upon your dish, one piece resting
half-way upon the other; shake one ounce of sifted sugar over, pour over
a good tablespoonful of brandy, and it is ready; to serve it out, put
two pieces upon the plate of each guest, with a spoonful of the syrup.
Slices of red Malta oranges, dressed alternately with the other, has a
pleasing effect. Any kind of liquor may be used, as also might whiskey,
rum, or that white cream or blue devil commonly called g----; dear me, I
quite forget the name.


853. _Salad of Strawberries._--Pick the stalks from a pottle of very
fine strawberries, which put into a basin with half a teaspoonful of
powdered cinnamon, two glasses of brandy, and an ounce of sifted sugar,
toss them lightly over, and dress them in pyramid upon your dish,
pouring the syrup over; these should only be dressed a few minutes
before serving; the brandy might be omitted. If handy, a glass of
maraschino, substituted for brandy, makes them delicious.


854. _Salad of Peaches._--Procure four ripe peaches, which peel and cut
into quarters; put them into a basin with two ounces of sugar and a
glass of sherry, toss them lightly over, dress upon your dish and serve.
Apricots, greengages, and other plums are dressed in salads in the same
manner, leaving their skins on.


855. _Salad of Currants and Raspberries._--Put an equal quantity of
each, making rather more than a pint, into a basin, with two ounces of
powdered sugar-candy, and a little powdered cinnamon, toss them over
lightly, and they are ready to serve.


856. _Pine Apples._--I have tried several experiments with the West
Indian pine-apples, many of which being rather stale when they arrive
here, would make an unsightly appearance whole upon the table, but made
into a compote or salad, they are really excellent, having also the
advantage of being very cheap.

For a _compote_, peel one rather thickly, to leave no black spots upon
it, make a syrup with half a pound of sugar, as directed (No. 831), cut
your pine-apple into round slices a quarter of an inch in thickness,
which put into the syrup, boiling them ten minutes; take them out with a
colander-spoon, reduce the syrup until thickish, and pour it over the
pine-apple; when cold it is ready to serve.

For a _salad_, peel and cut a pine-apple into small square dice, which
put into a basin with two ounces of sugar-candy (powdered) and a glass
of noyeau, toss all well together and serve.

For _marmalade_, pair and cut into small pieces several small
pine-apples, and to every quart thus cut up add one pound of fine sugar,
boil for half an hour, and put in a pot.


857. _Cake of Savoy in mould._--Have ready a large high mould lightly
buttered (with a soft brush, and clarified butter), turn the mould up to
drain, and when the butter is quite set throw some finely sifted sugar
into it; move the mould round until the sugar has adhered to every part,
after which turn out the superfluous sugar, tie a band of buttered paper
round at the top, and place it in a cool place until the mixture is
ready. Place the yolks of fourteen eggs in a basin, with one pound of
sugar (upon which you have rubbed the rind of two lemons previous to
pounding), beat well together with a wooden spoon until nearly white,
then whip the whites of the eggs very stiff, add them to the yolks and
sugar, with six ounces of flour and six ounces of potato-flour, mix the
whole lightly but well together, and fill the mould rather more than
three parts full, place it in a very moderate oven one hour, keeping the
oven-door shut; then try when done as directed in the last, if done take
off the paper and turn it out upon a sieve until quite cold. The above
mixture being more delicate than the last, would not do so well for
removes, but may be used for that purpose by being made three or four
days before it is required.


858. _Savoy Cakes, or Ladies' Fingers._--Have the weight of nine eggs of
sugar in a bowl, which put into a bain-marie of hot water, weigh the
same weight of flour, which sift through a wire sieve upon paper, break
the eggs into a bowl, and proceed as directed for sponge-cake; then with
a paper funnel or bag, with a thin pipe made for that purpose, lay it
out upon papers into biscuits three inches in length and the thickness
of your little finger, sift sugar over, shaking off all that does not
adhere to them; place them upon baking-sheets, and bake in rather a warm
oven of a brownish-yellow color, when done and cold, detach them from
the paper by wetting it at the back, place them a short time to dry, and
they are ready for use for charlotte russe, or wherever directed.


859. _Sponge Cake._--Put one pound of powdered sugar in a good-sized
bowl, which stand in a bain-marie of hot water; sift one pound of flour
upon a sheet of paper, then break twelve eggs into the bowl with the
sugar, which whisk rather quickly until they become a little warm and
rather thickish, then take the bowl from the bain-marie, and continue
whisking until nearly or quite cold; then add the chopped rind of a
lemon and the flour, which mix lightly with a wooden spoon; have ready
your mould or baking-dish lightly buttered, into which you have put a
little flour, knocking out all that does not adhere to the butter, pour
in the mixture and place it one hour in a moderate oven, it may require
longer or not so long, but that will depend entirely upon the compass
you have it in; if done it will feel firm to the touch, but the surest
method is to run a thin wooden skewer into the centre, if it comes out
clean the cake is done, but if not some of the mixture would adhere to
it; care should be taken not to disturb it until quite set, or it would
sink in the centre, and never properly bake; when done turn it out upon
a sieve to cool. Serve where indicated.


860. _Small Sponge Cakes._--Put six whole eggs into an earthen pan with
half a pound of sugar, upon which you have previously rubbed the rind of
a lemon, stand the pan in very hot water, keeping its contents well
mixed until becoming rather warm, when take it from the water,
continuing to whisk until quite cold and thickish, when stir in gently
half a pound of sifted flour; have ready buttered, and dusted with
sugar, about a dozen small sponge-cake tins, put a tablespoonful of the
mixture into each, shake sugar over, and bake them in a moderate oven.


861. _Pound Cakes._--Put one pound of butter into an earthen pan with a
pound of powdered sugar, and a little grated nutmeg, beat them well
together with the hand until forming a smooth lightish cream, when add
by degrees eight eggs, beating it ten minutes after, when add a pound
and a quarter of sifted flour, stir it in lightly, and put the mixture
into hoops to bake.


862. _Queen's Cakes._--Weigh of butter the weight of six eggs, and nine
of powdered sugar, which put together in an earthen pan, heat well with
the hand until forming a smooth cream, when add by degrees nine eggs,
and when well beat, stir in the weight of nine eggs of flour and half a
pound of currants; have ready buttered about a dozen little round cake
pans, fill each one rather better than three parts full with the
mixture, shake sugar over, and bake them in a moderate oven. If no cake
pans, drop the mixture upon paper in pieces half the size of a walnut,
and an inch and a half apart, shake sugar over, bake in a warm oven,
and, when done, remove them from the papers.

863. _Almond Cakes._--Procure one pound of ground almonds, to which add
two pounds of powdered sugar, mixing the whole with the whites of nine
eggs, beating the mixture well with a wooden spoon for about ten
minutes, lay them out upon wafer paper of an oval shape with a
tablespoon, put three or four strips of almonds upon the top of each,
and bake them in a slow oven; when done, break away all the wafer paper
but that which adheres to the bottom of the paper, and, when cold, they
are ready for use.


864. _Cocoa-Nut Biscuits._--Scrape four cocoa nuts, to which add the
same weight of powdered sugar, mix with whites of eggs, beating with a
wooden spoon until forming a softish but thick paste; lay the mixture
out upon wafer-paper in small drops, baking them as directed in the
last.


865. _Moss Biscuits._--Weigh half a pound of flour, to which add an
ounce and a half of butter and five ounces of sugar, rub them well
together and mix with one whole and one white of egg and a teaspoonful
of milk; then add two ounces of ground almonds, which rub well into the
paste; afterwards rub the whole through a gauze wire sieve, taking it
off in small pieces, which lay upon a lightly-buttered baking-sheet, and
bake them in a moderate oven.


866. _Rout Cakes._--Procure one pound of ground almonds, to which add
one pound of powdered sugar, mixing them together with yolks of eggs
until forming a stiffish but flexible paste, when form it into small
biscuits of the shapes of coronets, bunches of filberts, birds' nests,
or any other shapes your fancy may dictate; let them remain five or six
hours, or all night, upon the baking-sheet, and bake them in a warm
oven.


867. _Rout Biscuits._--Boil a pound and a quarter of lump sugar, upon
which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon, in half a pint of milk; when
cold, rub half a pound of butter with two pounds of flour, make a hole
in the centre, pour in the milk with as much carbonate of soda as would
lie upon a sixpence, and a couple of eggs, mix the whole into a smooth
paste, lay it out upon your baking-sheet in whatever flat shapes you
please, and bake them in a very warm oven.

The proper way to shape these biscuits is by wooden blocks having
leaves, pine-apples, and other devices carved upon them.


868. _Cream Biscuits._--Rub one pound of fresh butter into one pound of
flour, make a hole in the centre, into which put half a pound of
powdered sugar upon which the rind of a lemon was rubbed previously to
pounding, and three whole eggs, mix the eggs well with the sugar, and
then mix all together, forming a flexible paste; cut it into round
pieces each nearly as large as a walnut, stamp them flat with a
butter-stamp of the size of a crown-piece, and bake them in a slack
oven.


869. _Shrewsbury Cakes._--Weigh one pound of flour, into which rub half
a pound of butter and six ounces of flour, make a hole in the centre,
into which break a couple of eggs, and add sufficient milk to form a
flexible paste, which roll out to the thickness of a penny-piece, and
cut it into small cakes with a round cutter; bake them in a moderate
oven.


_Ginger Cakes_ are made precisely as the above, but adding half an ounce
of ground ginger before mixing; and _Cinnamon Cakes_, by rubbing in an
ounce and a half of ground cinnamon after the paste is mixed.


870. _Macaroons._--Blanch and skin half a pound of sweet almonds, dry
them well in your screen, then put them into a mortar with a pound and a
half of lump sugar, pound well together, and pass the whole through a
wire sieve; put it again into a mortar, with the whites of two eggs, mix
well together with the pestle, then add the white of another egg,
proceeding thus until you have used the whites of about eight eggs and
made a softish paste, when lay them out at equal distances, apart upon
wafer-paper, in pieces nearly the size of walnuts, place some strips of
almonds upon the top, sift sugar over, and bake in a slow oven of a
yellowish brown color; they are done when set quite firm through.


871. _Ratafias._--Ratafias are made similar to the above, but deducting
two ounces of sweet, and adding two ounces of bitter almonds; they are
laid out in much smaller cakes upon common paper, and baked in a much
warmer oven; when cold, they may be taken off the paper with the
greatest ease.

These cakes are very serviceable in making a great many second-course
dishes.


872. _Italian Drops._--Have a mixture similar to the above, merely a
liqueur glassful of best noyeau, lay it in round drops upon paper, and
bake in a hot oven without sifting any sugar over; when taken from the
papers, dry them a little in the screen, and they are ready to serve.

The bottoms may be spread over with apricot marmalade, and two stuck
together just previous to being served, if approved of.


873. _St. James's Cake._--Put one pound of very fresh butter in a
good-sized kitchen basin, and with the right hand work it up well till
it forms quite a white cream; then add one pound powdered sugar, mix
well, add ten eggs by degrees; put to dry a pound and a quarter of
flour, which mix as lightly as possible with it; blanch and cut in
slices two ounces of pistachios, two ditto of green preserved angelica,
add two liqueur glasses of noyeau, two drops of essence of vanilla; whip
a gill and a half of cream till very thick, mix lightly with a wooden
spoon.




LETTER No. XVII


     THE DINNER-TABLE.

     MY DEAR ELOISE,--I thank you for your kind compliment, but I have
     always been of opinion that the arrangements and serving of a
     dinner-table, have as much to do with the happiness and pleasure of
     a party as the viands which are placed upon it; this I had a
     practical proof of last week. Mr. B. and myself were invited to
     dine with Mr. D., a city friend, at Balham Hill; I had before met
     Mrs. D. at an evening party, at his partner's, at Hackney, and knew
     little of her.

     Dinner was served pretty punctually, only half an hour after time.
     On my entrance in the room, my first glance at the table showed me
     that there was a want of _savoir-faire_ in its management: the
     plate, very abundant and splendid, was of so yellow a cast that it
     looked as if it were plated, and the cut glass was exceedingly dim.
     My first surprise was that there were no napkins, the next the soup
     plates were quite cold, which I have found often the case in other
     houses; after being served with fish, and waiting until it was cold
     for the sauce to eat with it, I was rather sceptical how the rest
     of the dinner would progress. After the first, the second course
     made its appearance, which was heavy and too abundant; the plain
     things were well done, but there was only one servant in the room
     for the whole party of fourteen, and from the strict formality of
     the table, it would have been a sacrilege to have handed your plate
     for any vegetables, or anything else you might require. There were
     four saltcellars, certainly very massive silver ones, at each
     corner of the table, and a beautiful cruet-frame in the centre; the
     hot dishes of this course, like the previous one, became cold and
     tasteless before being eaten, and during the time the servant was
     serving the champagne, all the plates were empty; in fact it was a
     good dinner spoilt. The wine drank with less goût than usual, and
     the long pauses between the courses made the formality appear still
     greater than it really was, and made you wish for the time to
     arrive for the cloth to be removed, which was not done, only the
     slips, a most awkward undertaking for one servant, and should never
     be practised unless having at least two.

     About half an hour after the cloth was removed, and just as the
     conversation was being thawed from the freezing it received at the
     dinner-table, Mrs. D. and the ladies withdrew, and for an hour and
     a half we had to bear the insipid conversation of the drawing-room,
     the hissing urn on the tea-table bearing a prominent part. Several
     messages were sent from time to time to the dining-room that coffee
     was ready; and when at last the gentlemen came, two had had quite
     wine enough, which caused them to receive sundry angry looks from
     their wives who were present, and who were glad to get them into
     their carriages which were waiting, and right glad indeed was I
     when ours was announced.

     This all happened, my dear Eloise, not from meanness; for if money
     could have purchased it nothing would have been wanting, but solely
     from want of _management_; and every one should think before they
     invite their friends to partake of their hospitality, if they know
     how to entertain them. Money of course will provide delicacies of
     all kinds, but to know how to dispose of those delicacies to the
     best advantage, that your friends may appreciate them, is what is
     sadly wanting in more than one house I visit.

     A very excellent remark is made in _Punch_ by Mr. Brown, in his
     Letters to a Young Man about Town, on the subject of great and
     little dinners. He says: "Properly considered the quality of the
     dinner is twice blest; it blesses him that gives, and him that
     takes; a dinner with friendliness is the best of all friendly
     meetings--a pompous entertainment, where no love is, is the least
     satisfactory."

     Our dinner on which you compliment me so much, we sat down twelve,
     for although the room and table would accommodate more, yet as my
     service of plate is for that number, and the arrangements of the
     kitchen are limited, that is the number I prefer, besides beyond
     which the conversation becomes partial, which is the bane of a
     dinner-table. You know we have no regular man-servant, but for
     these occasions I hire two, and place one on each side the table,
     and they each have their own side table with a change of everything
     that is required. The first thing to be looked to is the lights:
     these ought to be so placed as not to intercept the view of any
     person at the table, but at the same time they ought to be enough
     to show everything off to advantage; I prefer removing some of the
     lights from the table to the sideboard when the cloth is removed,
     as the light after dinner ought to be more subdued. In laying the
     cloth we place it over the baize, and remove it after dinner, as
     Mr. B. says he likes to see the mahogany, for when he asks a city
     friend to come and put his feet under his mahogany, it looks rather
     foolish if he never sees it. I have, as you know, my table rather
     wide, that is, six feet, and I generally place a vase of flowers in
     the centre, as I think their freshness and odor add greatly to the
     appearance of the table, and admit a flanc on each side. We prefer
     the old English plan of taking the top and bottom of the table,
     instead of I and Mr. B. being together at the side.

     The cloth being laid with its proper side uppermost, I order a
     napkin, two knives, two prongs, two tablespoons, and two
     wine-glasses to be placed to each person, a saltcellar between
     every other, that being a condiment which every one uses, though
     often wrongly; the cruet-frames and other requisites are kept on
     the sideboards. I then have the fish and soup served together, the
     potatoes and sauce on the sideboard; I serving the soup, and Mr. B.
     the fish, and often a little dish of fried fish, such as smelts,
     &c., to remove the soups. This gives me an opportunity of seeing
     that my guests are properly attended to, and also leisure of taking
     wine with any gentleman who challenges me. During the time this
     course has been progressing, the cook has had time to dish up the
     removes nice and hot, and get all up close to the door, as I like
     as little time as possible to intervene in changing the dishes; and
     these consist generally of variously dressed chickens, which I have
     before me, as this gives an opportunity for the gentleman on my
     right to display his gallantry; but, thanks to Soyer's separator,
     this is an easy task. This affords me still further leisure to pay
     attention to my guests. Mr. B., who is a capital carver, either has
     a saddle or a haunch of mutton, or a quarter of lamb before him,
     the rest of the dishes consisting of a tongue and entrées. I select
     those most easy to carve, and also easy for the cook to prepare.
     This is a period of dinner where a great deal depends upon the
     attendants; they should know almost by the look what this lady or
     that gentleman require, and what kind of vegetables to hand them; a
     first-rate butler should be able to judge by the physiognomy to
     whom he should offer mint sauce with the lamb, and who prefers
     cayenne; on their attention and hot plates, depends the success of
     the substantial part of the dinner.

     As soon as I see that all are served, and words are few in
     consequence of the organ which utters them being employed in
     another way, I give a look to the two servants, which they
     understand, and immediately two reports are heard,--they are from
     two bottles of champagne, opened at the same time by the
     attendants, who have each a salver with six glasses on it; this
     takes but a short time to serve, and prepares the palate for the
     entrées, which generally get praised; indeed my cook would think
     something was wrong if two of the dishes did not go down empty. By
     having the champagne thus, I find it goes much further than if only
     one bottle was opened at the time, there being sufficient left in
     the bottles for a gentleman to challenge a lady to take champagne
     with him. If I have game I remove the top and bottom dishes with
     them, and make the sweets a separate course, taking care to have
     _cold plates_ for the jelly, and having the liquors handed round
     when the sweets are on the table; one cheese I place opposite Mr.
     B., and macaroni opposite myself. Objections have been made to the
     use of napkins, as being of no service at an English dinner-table,
     and only a copy of the dirty manners of our neighbors. If we are
     more cleanly at the table than they are (which I question), there
     is no reason why we should not use that which would make us still
     more so; but Mr. B. is so well pleased with the rose water which he
     has at the court dinners of his company, that he made me a present
     of those two beautiful dishes which you admired so much. The
     outside compartment holds rose-water, and the inner one a little
     eau-de-cologne; these are placed on salvers, and pass down each
     side of the table, the corner of each napkin being dipped into it.
     They seem to be absolutely required, and I must say they form a
     delightful adjunct to the dinner-table.

     He[9] has also introduced at our table, but _only at Christmas_,
     another city custom, which the gentlemen seem very much to like,--I
     cannot say so for the ladies; it is what he calls a loving cup; he
     has it placed before him when the cheese is put on; and after
     filling the glass of the lady on each side of him, he rises and
     drinks to their health and the rest of the company, and then passes
     it to the gentleman on the left, who, in like manner, fills the
     glass of the lady on his left, rises, drinks to her health and the
     company, and thus it goes round the table. Your husband, my dear
     Eloise, thought that the contents were exceedingly good, or, as he
     expressed it, nectar fit for the gods, and would like to have the
     receipt,--here it is as Mr. B. prepares it:--The cup holds two
     quarts; he places in it half a teacupful of capillaire; if he has
     none, he uses dissolved lump sugar, with a few drops of
     orange-flower water in it, one pint of brown sherry, one bottle of
     good _Edinburgh_ ale, mixing these together, and a minute before
     placing on the table, adding one bottle of soda water, stirring it
     well up till it froths; he then grates some nutmeg on the froth,
     and places a piece of toast in it, and sends it to the table with a
     napkin through the handle of the cup. I must say, since we have had
     this, it has produced some most interesting conversation as
     regarded the antiquity of the custom, &c. In addition, Mr. B.
     bought the cup at a sale, and it is stated to have been drunk out
     of by Henry the Eighth: this of itself is a subject of
     conversation, and draws out the talents and conversational powers
     of our guests, and one in which ladies can join, as there is hardly
     one of our sex who has not read Miss Strickland's "Queens of
     England." You have often made the remark, that the time always
     appears short whilst we are at table; this is, no doubt, from the
     animated conversation which is kept up, for that is the real motive
     of meeting together, to enjoy the conversation of one another, to
     gain and impart information, and amuse ourselves with the wit and
     talent of those around us, and not for the sake of eating and
     drinking; yet without the assistance of both of these, the most
     sparkling wit would be as heavy as a bad soufflé, and the brightest
     talent as dull as my looking-glass on a foggy day.

     In order to prolong the time, and to enjoy the gentlemen's society
     as much as possible, I do not have the dessert placed on the table
     until ten or twenty minutes after the cloth is removed; this also
     gives an opportunity for my guests to admire the beautiful Sevres
     dessert plates, containing views of the French chateaux; this of
     course gives a subject for conversation to those who have visited
     them. In the dessert I generally introduce some new importation,
     such as bananas, sugar-cane, American lady apples, prickly pears,
     &c.; these also give a subject for the gentlemen to talk about when
     the ladies have left, as free trade, colonial policy, &c. About
     half an hour after the dessert is on the table, and when I see that
     the conversation is becoming less general, I retire to the
     drawing-room; the servants then remove the dirty glass and plates,
     and Mr. B. introduces some of his choice claret or Burgundy in ice
     coolers.

     You know, my dear Eloise, I allow very little more than half an
     hour for us to talk about the last new fashions, or of Mrs. A. and
     B.'s cap, and the young ones about their partners at the last ball,
     and other nothings, when the tea and coffee are brought up on
     salvers; it is always made down stairs, and sent up in cups to the
     drawing-room, although Mr. B. had a very handsome silver service
     presented to him just after we were married, for serving as an
     honorary secretary to some grand masonic festival, yet the milk
     ewer and sugar basin are all I allow in the room. This does away
     with the formality of the tea-table and the hissing of the tea-urn;
     it allows some young gentlemen with a Byron collar and a little
     down under his chin to turn over the pages of a music-book for a
     young lady at the piano, and make his coffee at the same time; it
     allows my dear mamma and Mr. P. to make up their whist table, and
     have their tea whilst playing; or, if we make up a quadrille, to
     have a few turns of a waltz or polka, the coffee is serving during
     the time; whilst this is going on the hand of the clock advances,
     and half-past ten soon arrives, and with it Mrs. C.'s fly; Dr. D.'s
     brougham is at the door; the party breaks up, delighted with the
     evening they have passed in each other's society: and this you see
     done with trifling management.




LETTER No. XVIII


     DEAREST ELOISE,--You are right in your remark, that there is a
     great difference as to the manner and way in which evening parties
     or soirées are given in different houses, although being frequented
     by the same party or circle. I must say I have my own ideas on this
     subject, and I think the French understand this matter much better
     than we do, and that we could not do better than imitate them. We
     English are a plodding, matter-of-fact people, and carry our
     notions into every concern in life: our dinners and entertainments
     are given with an ulterior object, and with a view of what may be
     gained from it, even from the charitable dinner at the London
     Tavern to the man who asks another to partake of a pint of beer
     with him at a public-house. It is this, together with ostentation,
     which is the bane of society, by bringing together people of
     incongruity of ideas, destroying that free exchange of thought
     which constitutes the true pleasure of social réunions; we are also
     naturally of a reserved and cautious disposition: hence the reason
     why the pleasures of a soirée are not felt until after supper. Of
     these I am a great advocate, though not to the extravagant and
     outré manner many are given in the present day. Of course in the
     way most ladies are now educated, they would rather be attending to
     the adornment of their persons for the occasion than to the
     entertainment and amusement of their guests. Those who can afford
     it, are quite right to patronize a first-rate confectioner, and
     thus save themselves the trouble; but how many that cannot afford
     it do the same thing, and make a bargain for a bad supper with one,
     by which he gains little, and the guests great disgust, instead of
     doing it at home and ordering a few good things which would look
     and eat well. There are a variety of drinks which could be made at
     a moderate expense, good and wholesome, and infinitely better than
     bad Marsala, which you are often obliged to partake of. I will
     enclose you a few receipts for them, and some bills of fare for
     suppers for small soirées.




BEVERAGES FOR EVENING PARTIES.


874. _Lemonade._--Peel six lemons free from pith, cut them up in small
pieces, and put them with two cloves in a bottle, with half a pint of
hot water, and place it in a bain-marie, or stewpan, with boiling water,
and let it stand by the side of the fire for one or two hours, taking
care it does not boil; remove it and let it remain until cold; then take
half a pint of lemon-juice, half a pint of capillaire--if none, use
sugar, that will make the same quantity of syrup--to which add a few
drops of orange-flower water; add the infusion of the rind, stir well
together, and add two quarts of cold water. The acidity of some lemons
is greater than others, in which case, and also if using lime-juice,
more capillaire must be used.


875. _Cold Punch._--Proceed as above for lemonade, but add one pint of
capillaire to half a pint of lemon-juice, one pint of pale brandy, one
pint of pale rum, one tablespoonful of arrack, and five quarts of cold
water; let it remain some time before it is decantered.


876. _Port Wine Negus._--Take one quart of new port wine, of a fruity
character, one tablespoonful of spirit of cloves, one teacupful of
sugar, one lemon sliced, half a nutmeg grated, pour over these two
quarts of boiling water.


877. _White Wine Fillip._--Take one bottle of sherry or Madeira, or
champagne, or any other good white wine, a gill of noyeau or maraschino,
the juice of half a lemon, add to it one quart of calf's foot jelly well
sweetened and boiling hot, and serve immediately.


878. _Sandwiches._--In making a large quantity, a stale quartern loaf
should be taken and trimmed free from all crust, and cut into slices the
eighth of an inch in thickness, slightly buttered, and then thin slices
of meat, nicely trimmed, may be laid on and covered with another slice
of bread, and then cut into eight parts; should they be but some time
before they are wanted, they ought to be put one over the other, as they
thus keep moist,--a little mustard and salt may be added to the meat, if
preferred. Some thin slices of gherkin may be added to the meat, and the
same plan can be adopted with pickled fish, brawn or sausages.

The following varies the common mode of making sandwiches:

Take a small quantity of very fresh cream cheese, put it into a basin or
a marble mortar, add some salt, pepper, and a little mustard, beat it
well up until it is of the same consistence as butter; if too hard add a
little of the latter, and use it as butter on the bread, with slices of
meat between. Or make it into salad sandwiches:--cover the bread as
before, and have ready some mustard and cress and water-cresses well
washed and dried, put into a bowl with mayonnaise sauce, and when ready
to serve place it neatly between the bread.




LETTER No. XIX


     ---- Farm, Essex, July --, 1849.

     MY DEAR ELOISE,--You are no doubt surprised at receiving this from
     the above address, but you remember when you last called I thought
     my little Emily was unwell, the next day she seemed worse, I then
     had the Dr.--, who ordered her out of town, and a friend of Mr.
     B.'s being present recommended this place; so Emily and I have now
     been a week here, and she has already improved by the change of
     air; it has also done me good, and I am greatly amused with the
     various occupations going on in the farm, which is an old-fashioned
     one, tenanted by a good old English farmer, his wife, and son; the
     latter is gone to see a brother settled in Liverpool. The
     cleanliness and regularity of the house are quite charming; but
     what delights me more than all is the dairy--such delicious cream
     and butter that it makes me quite envy people living in the
     country!

     I must describe the pretty dairy to you: it is situated at the back
     of the house, and sheltered by it from the mid-day and afternoon's
     sun, and from the morning's sun by a plantation, so that it is
     deliciously cool; it is about twelve feet long by ten wide, paved
     with flat stones, and the walls of plaster, like stone, a door at
     one end with a window above and a window high up at the other end,
     and two windows at the side; these have thin wire shutters and
     glazed sashes on hinges; the roof is of slate, with about two feet
     thickness of thatch over it; there are also several little openings
     for the admission of air, about one inch from the floor. A dresser,
     two feet wide, being two inches from the wall, is on both sides,
     and above these are two shelves of nine inches wide, also two
     inches from the wall, these are supported on iron brackets. At the
     end, and opposite the door, is the churn, which is turned by a
     wheel outside, with apparatus for a donkey or mule to work it, if
     required.

     All the utensils are of sycamore wood and perfectly clean, never
     used twice without washing in hot water with soda put in it, and
     made perfectly dry.

     There are as many ways of making butter as there are counties in
     Great Britain. I will now tell you how it is practised here. The
     cows are milked at a regular hour, not later than five, the milk
     taken as soon as possible into the dairy, and placed in the dishes
     about six quarts in each; is thus left for twenty-four hours; then
     it is skimmed, and the cream from each is placed in a deep bowl or
     pan, where it remains until the next day, when it is churned.
     Friday's milk is made into cheese; when churned it is gathered
     well together from the milk and laid in a clean bowl, with hard
     spring water in it, and worked to and fro until it is brought to a
     firm consistence; it is then laid out thin, and then what is called
     here a scotcher is taken--that is, a kind of five-pronged fork of
     wood, only each prong is as sharp as a knife, and drawn through
     every part of it; then whatever salt is required is added, and it
     is then formed into pats, or done any way they like. If intended as
     corned or salt butter, they then add one pound of fine salt to
     every fourteen pounds of butter; in some places the coarsest
     grained salt is used; in others two pounds of salt, one pound of
     saltpetre, and one pound of white sugar mixed together, one fourth
     of this for every fourteen pounds. If intended for keeping, it is
     put into stone crocks until it is wanted. The way in which they
     make the cheese here is as follows: all Friday's milk is taken,
     that of the morning is kept until the afternoon, and mixed with it;
     then two spoonfuls of rennet to every twelve quarts of milk are put
     to it and well mixed, it is then left all night. Very early the
     next morning the curd is removed with a strainer and equally broken
     into the cheese vat or mote until it is about one inch above the
     brim, a cheese cloth or strainer having previously been put at the
     bottom of the vat, and large enough to allow for part of it to be
     turned over the top when the vat is filled; when thus filled it is
     taken to the press, and left for two hours with a clean cloth under
     it; it is then turned over on the cloth, and pressed again; and the
     same process is continued three or four hours out of the
     twenty-four. It is then removed and placed on the shelf, and turned
     regularly every day for the first two months; after that
     occasionally.

     I intend to try my hand at it shortly, and see what I can make of
     it.

     I find that the butter which is made here and potted for winter use
     is not intended to be sold as salt, but as fresh, and the
     dairy-maid has just told me how it is done. For every quart of new
     milk from the cow, she takes one pound of potted butter, which has
     been treated thus the day previous: into two quarts of cold water
     two tablespoonfuls of vinegar are mixed, and the potted butter well
     broken and kneaded in it, and then taken out, and served the same
     in fresh water, in which it is left until the next morning, and
     then mixed with the milk, put into the churn and churned again, and
     then treated in the usual way as butter; by this plan there is a
     large quantity of sweet milk always in the farm, as it is
     exceedingly good when strained.

     The following is the way they make the clouted cream:--


879. _Clouted Cream._--Strain the milk as soon as it comes from the cow
into wide pans, holding about six quarts each, so as to be about three
inches deep, and let it remain for twenty-four hours; then gently place
the pan upon a hot plate or slow charcoal fire, which must heat it very
gently, for if it boils it is spoilt; as soon as the cream forms a ring
in the middle, remove a little with the finger, and if there are a few
bubbles rise in the place where you do so, it is done, which will be in
half to three quarters of an hour; remove it from the fire, and let it
remain twenty-four hours; then skim it, and throw a little sugar on the
top.




CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS.


     _Mrs. R._ After all the receipts and information which you have
     given me, there is one which you have not touched upon yet, which,
     perhaps, is of more importance than all the rest, it is the
     management of servants.

     _Mrs. B._ You are right, my dear, it is of great importance, and
     more so than many of us imagine, as for myself I do not consider
     that I am a good manager, being perhaps of too forgiving a
     disposition; but there is one good quality which I possess which
     makes up for the want of others, that is exactitude; by enforcing
     this it causes all to know their place, and perform their work.

     _Mrs. R._ But what surprises me is to see everything so well done
     and clean with so few servants; you seem to have but two maid
     servants, the cook, house-maid, and coachman.

     _Mrs. B._ Yes, that is all, and I generally find that they are
     enough for the work, unless I have a dinner party, and then of
     course, as you know, I have extra men; but I will tell you how I
     pass the day, and then you will be able to judge.

     We are what are called early risers, that is, Mr. B. is obliged to
     leave home every week day at twenty minutes past nine; our
     breakfast is on the table at half-past eight; the breakfast parlor
     having previously been got ready, as the servants rise at seven. We
     are, when we have no visitors, our two selves, the three children,
     and the governess. The children, in summer time, have had a walk
     before breakfast, but before leaving their room they uncover their
     beds, and if fine open the windows, if a wet morning about two
     inches of the top sash is pulled down. The servants get their
     breakfast at the same time as we do, as we require hardly any or no
     waiting upon, everything being ready on the table. In a former
     letter I told you what was our breakfast some years since when in
     business, now we have placed on the table some brown bread, rolls
     and dry toast; the butter is in a glass butter-dish, and the eggs
     are brought up when we have sat down to table. The urn is placed on
     the table, as I make my own tea and coffee; the cocoa is made down
     stairs.

     You will perhaps be surprised when I say that I make the coffee for
     breakfast myself, but I have done so for some little time past,
     having found that when made in the kitchen it never came up twice
     alike, but now we always have it delicious.

     I lately purchased a coffee-pot which enables me to do it in the
     very best manner, with no more trouble than I have in making the
     tea. I mentioned it in my receipts for coffee, and said it was
     invented by a Mr. S., which letter was inserted by mistake instead
     of C. which it ought to be. It is called Carey's Hecla. It makes
     the very best coffee at one short operation, and is so contrived as
     to produce it almost boiling hot; in fact, never permitting the
     great mistake of boiling the coffee itself at all.

     Mr. B. generally leaves home in the brougham, which returns in time
     for me; in case I should be going out, he then goes in a cab or
     omnibus. Whilst we are at breakfast, I generally consult Mr. B.
     what he would like for dinner, and if he is likely to invite any
     friend to dine with him; the fishmonger has previously sent his
     list and prices of the day. I then write with a pencil on a slip of
     paper the bill of fare for the nursery dinner, luncheon, should any
     be required, and our dinner, which I send to the cook. At ten
     o'clock I go down stairs into the kitchen and larder, when the cook
     gives me her report, that is everything that is required for the
     next twenty-four hours' consumption, including the servants'
     dinner, which report is filed in the larder and made to tally with
     the week's list, for I must tell you that the week's consumption of
     all things that will not spoil is had in on the Saturday, on which
     day the larder is properly scoured out, and everything put again
     into its proper place, there being bins for all kinds of
     vegetables, &c. The larder is generally kept locked, the cook and I
     only having keys, because it is in fact a larder, and not, as in
     many houses, full of emptiness; this occupies about half an hour,
     during which time the chambermaids have been attending to the
     bed-rooms and drawing-room, &c. If I go out or not, I always get my
     toilet finished by twelve o'clock; I thus have one hour to write
     notes, or see tradesmen or my dressmaker, and Monday mornings check
     and pay my tradesmen's accounts, and to dress. If I stop at home, I
     amuse myself by reading, or going to see the children in the
     nursery, or sometimes go again into the kitchen and assist the cook
     on some new receipt or preparation, and often have several calls;
     during the course of the morning the two maids scour out
     alternately one or two of the rooms, according to size, except on
     Wednesdays, when one of them is otherwise engaged.

     Mr. B. arrives home at twenty minutes to five, and at half-past
     five we dine: the cloth is laid, and everything prepared as if we
     had company; it may be a little more trouble for the servants; but
     when we do have any friends they find it less trouble; besides it
     is always uncertain but what Mr. B. may bring somebody home with
     him, and it prevents slovenly habits; the two maids, with the
     exception of Wednesdays, are always ready to attend on us. I never
     allow the coachman to defile our carpets with his stable shoes; all
     his duties in the house are--the first thing in the morning to
     clean the knives and forks for the day, for enough are kept out for
     that purpose, clean the boots and shoes, and those windows the
     maids cannot easily get at, and assist in the garden if required.
     Many have made the remark to me, that as you have a male servant
     why not have him wait at table. I reply that the duties of the
     stable are incompatible with those of the table, and if he does his
     duty properly he has enough to do. The servants dine at one, and
     have tea at quarter to five, by which time the cook has everything
     ready, all but to take it from the fire, and the maids the
     dining-room ready. The nursery dinner is at the same hour; after
     dinner, should we be alone, we have the children and the governess
     down; if we have company we do not see them; they go to bed at a
     quarter to eight, and we have tea and coffee at eight; the
     governess comes and passes the rest of the evening with us; eleven
     is our usual hour of retiring, before which Mr. B. likes his glass
     of negus, a biscuit, or a sandwich, which is brought upon a tray.

     _Mrs. L._--What you have described to me is all very well, yet I am
     certain, that if I go and try to do the same to-morrow, I shall not
     succeed; how is it that you have everything in its place, and I
     never hear a word said to the servants?

     _Mrs. B._--It is because they all know their duties, and if they
     should in any way neglect them, I think of the maxim, bear and
     forbear, for none of us are perfect, and I take an opportunity when
     I may be alone with them to tell them quietly of their faults. Some
     mistresses will go into the kitchen and be angry with them before
     the other servants; the consequence is, that as soon as her back is
     turned they all begin to laugh. A ridiculous incident of this kind
     occurred the other evening at Mrs. G.'s. We missed her out of the
     drawing-room just before tea, and it appeared that her young boy
     Fred, followed her; whilst we were at tea he was very
     communicative, as children sometimes will be (l'enfant terrible),
     and said, "We have been having such fun in the kitchen." On inquiry
     he said, "My mother has been down stairs scolding Jane, and I hid
     myself behind the door; and when my mother had gone up, Betsy the
     cook spoke and moved her hands just like mamma; it made us all
     laugh so, it was such fun." I need not tell you it was no fun for
     Mrs. G., who looked rather annoyed. We should ever remember, that
     we have our feelings, and should also think that others have
     theirs; and I think it is as much the mistress's fault when
     anything goes wrong in the house, as the servants'. I only lose my
     servants when they get married, or from ill health, and the only
     thing that I find bad, is, that they quarrel amongst themselves,
     but should this occur thrice with the same two, I dismiss them
     both. I am certain, that if you teach your servants to take care of
     themselves, they are certain to take care of you. I continually
     hear Mrs. M. complaining of changing her servants, and that seems
     to be her sole occupation. Poor thing, she has no children, and
     nothing to occupy her mind, and without occupation the mind becomes
     diseased, and the least action throws it into fever. Mrs. N.
     complains of the extravagance of her servants; it is her own
     extravagance, or, more properly speaking, her want of management
     which causes all; but this I really think, that if everybody were
     more cautious in receiving and giving characters to servants other
     than what they are, we should not hear the continual complaint we
     do, when often assembled in the drawing-room after dinner, when,
     perhaps, some dear old lady complains of the education given to
     young people of the present day, and that, in time, there will be
     no such thing as servants. To some extent I am of her opinion, and
     consider that the education given by all classes to their children,
     is a great deal more ornamental than useful. I would rather see
     the child taught some of the accomplishments of housekeeping, than
     that she should be considered as the mere ornament of the
     drawing-room. I think it is the bounden duty of every mother, where
     the income of the husband may be dependent on trade or profession,
     to give her children that education which even the most adverse of
     circumstances may call upon them to assume. Look at the
     advertisements which appear in the public press every day!--Young
     girls offering themselves as governesses, to be remunerated by
     their board; whereas, if they had been educated with a knowledge of
     some useful employment, they would have made good ladies' maids or
     housekeepers, or useful wives to tradesmen.




BILLS OF FARE.


When I was first married and commencing business, and our means were
limited, the following was our system of living:

     _Sunday's Dinner._--Roast-Beef, Potatoes, Greens, and Yorkshire
     Pudding.

     _Monday._--Hashed Beef and Potatoes.

     _Tuesday._--Broiled Beef and Bones, Vegetables, and Spotted Dick
     Pudding.

     _Wednesday._--Fish if cheap, Chops and Vegetables.

     _Thursday._--Boiled Pork, Peas Pudding, and Greens.

     _Friday._--Peas Soup, Remains of Pork.

     _Saturday._--Stewed Steak with Suet Dumpling.

The Sunday's dinner I used to vary, one time Beef, another Mutton,
another Pork or Veal, and sometimes a Baked Sucking Pig; our living
then, including a good Breakfast and Tea, cost us about 32_s._ per week.

In case we had a few friends, we used to make an addition by having one
Fish, Leg of Mutton, Roast Fowls, Pickled Pork, and Peas Pudding, with a
Mould Pudding and Fruit Tart, and a little dessert.

This was for the first two years; our means and business then
increasing, and having the three young men to dine with us, we were of
course obliged to increase our expenditure and to alter our mode of
living, besides which I had accompanied Mr. B. to France, where my
culinary ideas received a great improvement.

The following is the plan we then adopted:

     _Sunday._--Pot-au-Feu, Fish--Haunch of Mutton or a Quarter of Lamb,
     or other good joint--Two Vegetables--Pastry and a Fruit Pudding--A
     little Dessert.

     _Monday._--Vermicelli Soup made from the Pot-au-Feu of the day
     previous--The Bouilli of the Pot-au-Feu--Remains of the Mutton--Two
     Vegetables--Fruit Tart.

     _Tuesday._--Fish--Shoulder of Veal stuffed--Roast Pigeons, or
     Leveret, or Curry--Two Vegetables--Apples with Rice, and light
     Pastry.

     _Wednesday._--Spring Soup--Roast Fowls, Remains of Veal minced, and
     Poached Eggs--Two Vegetables--Rowley Powley Pudding.

     _Thursday._--Roast-Beef--Remains of Fowl--Two Vegetables--Sweet
     Omelette.

     _Friday._--Fish--Shoulder of Lamb--Miroton of Beef--Two
     Vegetables--Baked Pudding.

     _Saturday._--Mutton Broth--Boiled Neck Mutton--Liver and Bacon--Two
     Vegetables--Currant Pudding.

Our parties then, when we had them, never consisted of more than ten.

We had: Julienne Soup--Fish--a quarter of Lamb--Vegetables,
Cutlets--Vegetables, Bacon and Beans--Boiled Turkey--Pheasant--Jelly or
Cream--Pastry--Lobster Salad--Omelette or Soufflé--Dessert, &c.

At present, though the number of our establishment is not greater, yet
the style and manner of our living have changed. We dine alone, except
when Mr. B. invites somebody to dine with him, which is most generally
the case; our daily bill of fare consists of something like the
following:--

One Soup or Fish, generally alternate--One Remove, either Joint or
Poultry--One Entrée--Two Vegetables--Pudding or Tart--A little Dessert.

This may seem a great deal for two persons; but when you remember that
we almost invariably have one or two to dine with us, and the remains
are required for the breakfast, lunch, nursery and servants' dinners,
you will perceive that the dinner is the principal expense of the
establishment, by which means you are enabled to display more liberality
to your guests, and live in greater comfort without waste. Our parties
at present, to many of which you have constantly been, and therefore
know, vary according to the season; here are a few bills of fare of
them; the following is one for two persons:--

One Soup, say Purée of Artichokes--One Fish, Cod Slices in Oyster
Sauce--Remove with Smelts or White Bait.

     _Removes._--Saddle of Mutton--Turkey in Celery Sauce.

     _Two Entrées._--Cutlets a la Provençale--Sweetbreads larded in any
     White Sauce.

     _Two Vegetables._--Greens--Kale--Potatoes on the Sideboard.


SECOND COURSE.

     _Two Roasts._--Partridges--Wild Ducks. Jelly of
     Fruit--Cheesecakes--Meringue à la Crême--Vegetable--French Salad on
     the Sideboard.

     _Removes._--Ice Pudding--Beignet Soufflé. _Dessert_ of eleven
     dishes.

The following is one for a birthday party, which generally consists of
twenty persons:--


FIRST COURSE.

     Two Soups--Two Fish.

     _Removes._--Haunch of Mutton--Broiled Capons à l'Ecarlate.

     _Flancs._--Fricandeau of Veal--Currie of Fowl.

     _Entrées._--Fillets of Beef, sauce Tomate--Cutlets Soubise--Oyster
     Patties, or Little Vol-au-Vent; Croquettes of Veal or Fowl.[10]


SECOND COURSE.

     Wild Ducks--Guinea Fowl larded--Charlotte Russe--Punch Jelly,
     Crusts of Fruit--Flanc Meringue--Apple with Rice--Scolloped
     Oysters--Mayonnaise of Fowl--Sea Kale or Asparagus.

     _Removes._--Turban of Condé Glacée--Cheese Soufflé à la Vanille.
     _Dessert_ of nineteen dishes.

The bills of fare for our small evening parties, say thirty persons, are
as follows; everything is cold, although I know that the fashion has
been progressing towards having hot removes.

Our table on those occasions is, as you know, in the form of a
horseshoe, which, in my opinion, is the most sociable after that of a
round one, and upon the sociability of the supper depends in a great
measure the success of the party. In the centre, and at the head of the
table, I place a large Grouse-pie, the same as Nos. 249, 285, of which,
by my recommendation, everybody partakes; I then on each of the wings
have Fowls, Lobster Salads, Mayonnaises of Fowl, Ham, Tongue, cut in
slices, and dished over parsley, ornamented with Aspic Jelly; and on the
sideboard I have a fine piece of Sirloin of Beef, plain roasted, or an
Aitch-Bone of Beef, or Fillet of Veal. Should there be no game, I have a
Turkey or Fowls en Galantine, instead of the Grouse-pie, or if game is
plentiful, I have less poultry, and add roast Pheasants--mind, not fowls
with black legs larded, and a pheasant's tail put to them, but real
ones,--or Partridges or Grouse, or a fine Salad of Game.

With the Sweets I generally place about twelve--four on each table, that
is 4 Jellies, 2 Creams, 2 Bavaroises, 4 Iced Cabinet Puddings, and 4
Raised Dishes of small Pastry, all of which are artistically disposed
upon the table.

The fruits are likewise placed on the table: they consist of simple
Compotes, 6 of various kinds and 6 of Dried Fruit, Biscuits, Wafers and
Cossacks, which last are getting much out of fashion, but are very
amusing.

The following is the Bill of Fare for Mr. B.'s Birthday Party, for which
he allows me £15, with which I find everything in the shape of
refreshments, with the exception of wine; it is--

One Raised Pie--Two Mayonnaises of Fowl--Two Lobster Salads--One Piece
of Roast Beef--Four Dishes of Fowl--Two Dishes of Pheasant--Four Dishes
of Tongue--Four Dishes of Ham--Four Jellies with Fruit--Two Creams with
Noyeau--Two Flancs with Apple Meringue--Two Iced Cabinet Puddings--Two
Puddings à la Eloise--Six Various Pastry--Eight Various Compotes--Four
Pièces Montées in China with Bonbons, Cossacks, &c.--Four of Fruit, as
Pears, Grapes, &c.--Four of Dried Fruit, &c.--Four of Biscuits, &c.

This perhaps may appear extravagant, but we always have them, some
country friends stopping a few days with us, so that I manage to make
the best of everything, and make my week's account look very well. We
sometimes have as many as sixty on an evening.

Our Children's Parties are as follows, there are generally about fifty
present:

     16 Dishes of Sandwiches. 4 Dishes of Lamb. 4 Dishes of Ham. 4 do.
     of Slices of Beef. 4 do. of Tongue. 6 do. of Fowls. 10 Dishes of
     Slices of Galantine of Veal. 1 Dish of Dressed Beef. 24 Dishes of
     Various Pastry, Custards, Jellies, Bonbons, &c.

But I remember when in business, on those occasions we only used to have
a large quantity of Sandwiches and Patties, and used to amuse the
children by labelling the Dishes as Sandwiches of Peacock's Tongues,
Patties of Partridge's Eyes, &c., and also a large quantity of plain
Sweets; and at that period Mr. B.'s birthday party was not so extensive
or _recherché_ as at present. It consisted of something like the
following:

A Roast Turkey--2 Dishes of Fowls--1 Ham--2 Pigeon Pies--1 Piece of
Boiled Beef--4 Lobsters--4 Salads--4 Jellies--4 Tarts--4 of Preserved
Fruit, &c.--4 of Pastry; with about twelve of various kinds of Fruit,
&c.

You will have seen by the previous Bills of Fare that I have not at all
encroached upon the high-class cookery, they being selected from the
receipts I have given you; in order that you may see the difference, I
inclose the Bill of Fare, of a dinner given by--Bass, Esq., M. P., at
the Reform Club, the other day, and a copy of yesterday's _Post_,
containing one given in the country. You will find that the dishes
mentioned in these Bills of Fare are not to be found in our receipts.

                     REFORM CLUB,
  _7 Juillet, 1849._              _Dîner pour 18 Personnes._

  Rissoletes à la Pompadour.
  Petites Croquantes aux oeufs de Rougets.

  Rissoletes à la Pompadour.
  Petites Croquantes aux oeufs de Rougets.

  Deux Potages.
  One Thick Turtle.
  One Clear Ditto.

         *       *       *       *       *

  Deux Poissons.
  _Crimped Salmon_,            Turbot
  en Matelote Normande.         à la Richelieu.

         *       *       *       *       *

  Deux Relevés.
  La Hanche de Venaison aux haricots verts.
  Les Poulardes en Diadême.

         *       *       *       *       *

  Six Entrées.
  Vol-au-Vent de Foies gras à la Talleyrand.
  Côtelettes d'Agneau demi Provençale.
  Petits Canetons Canaris aux jeunes légumes glacées.
  Noix de Veau demi grasse à la purée de concombres.
  Ortolans à la Vicomtesse.
  Aiguillettes de petits Poussins à la Banquière

         *       *       *       *       *

  Deux Rôtis.
  Les _Turkey Poults_ piqués et bardés,
  garnis de Cailles aux feuilles de vignes.
  Les Jeunes Levrauts au jus de groseilles.

         *       *       *       *       *

  Huit Entremets.

  Gelée a l'eau de vie          Flanc d'Abricôts
  de Dantzick.                  aux Liqueurs.
  Aspic de Homard               Quartiers d'Artichaux
  à la Gelée.                   à la Vénitienne.
  Petits Pois                   Gâteau Milanais
  à l'Anglaise.                 au Parmesan.
  Pain de Pêches                Bombe Glacée
  au Noyau.                     au Café Moka,

         *       *       *       *       *

  Jambon en surprise glacé
  à la Vanille.
  _Pudding_ à la Méphistophiles.

  A. SOYER.


FESTIVITIES AT GRENDON HALL.

A series of festivities are taking place at the seat of Sir George
Chetwynd, Bart., Grendon Hall, Atherstone, Warwickshire, to celebrate
the christening of Sir George's infant grandson. The christening took
place on Tuesday, at Grendon church, and in the evening a grand dinner
was given in celebration of the event, under the able superintendence of
M. Alexis Soyer. As the dinner, which was provided for twenty persons,
was of a very _recherché_ description, we subjoin the bill of fare.

  Deux Potages.
  One of Clear Turtle.
  Ditto à la Nivernaise.

         *       *       *       *       *

  Deux Poissons.

  Crimped Severn Salmon                        Turbot
  à la Régence.                                à la Cardinal.

         *       *       *       *       *

  Deux Relevés.

  La Hanche de Venaison.           Deux Poulardes à la Nelson.

         *       *       *       *       *

  Rissolettes de Foie
  gras à la Pompadour.

  Rissolettes de Foie
  gras à la Pompadour.

  Six Entrées.

  Les Ortolans à la Vicomtesse.
  Epigramme d'Agneau à la purée de concombres.
  Grenadins de Veau aux petits pois.
  Filets de Caneton au jus d'orange.
  Côtelettes de Mouton à la Provençale.
  Turban de Volaille à la Périgord.

         *       *       *       *       *

  Deux Rôtis.

  Cailles bardées aux feuilles de vignes.
  Gelinottes des Ardennes.

         *       *       *       *       *

  Huit Entremets.

  Turban de Meringues                       Pain de Fruit
  aux Pistaches.                              aux Pêches.
  Galantine                          Croûtades d'Artichaux
  à la Volière.                               à l'Indienne.
  Vegetable Marrow                    Miroton de Homard
  à la Béchamel.                               à la Gelée.
  Bavaroise Mousseuse                      Blanche Crême
  à l'Ananas.                              au Marasquin.

         *       *       *       *       *

  Ices.           Deux Relevés.                      St. James's
  Pine Apple     Hure de Sanglier en surprise glacé      Cake,
  and                            à la Vanille.           the first
  Strawberry.     Petits Biscuits soufflés à la Crême.   ever made.

After dinner M. Soyer had the honor of presenting the youthful heir the
proof copy of his new work on Cookery.

_Morning Post, July 26, 1849._




LETTER XX


     A NEW ALIMENT.

Bifrons Villa.

     Here, dear Eloise, is an entirely new aliment, which has never yet
     been introduced into this country. A semi-epicure of our
     acquaintance, on returning from his visit to the National Guard of
     France, presented me with a pound of it, which he had purchased in
     Paris; but even there, said he, it is almost in its infancy; you
     may fancy, if I were not anxious of making an immediate trial of
     it; but before I give you the receipt how to use it, let me tell
     you I have found it most delicious. Mr. B. has not yet tasted it,
     being for a week in the country, but I am confident he will like
     it, especially for breakfast: but the puzzle is, after my pound is
     used, how we are to get more? Time, I suppose, will teach us. It
     appears that we are indebted for it to a celebrated French
     gentleman, M. le Docteur Lamolte, the inventor of the electric
     light, who ingeniously, though oddly, named it Cho-ca, being a
     scientific composition of _chocolat_ and _café_, the alliance of
     which balancing admirably their excellence and virtue, and partly
     correcting their evils, the first being rather irritable, the
     second heavy. But I think, if my recollection serves me rightly,
     the idea of this compound must have originated from that great
     French philosopher, M. de Voltaire, who constantly, for his
     breakfast, partook of half café-au-lait and half chocolate, which
     were served at the same time in separate vessels in a boiling
     state, and poured from each slowly, about eighteen inches in
     elevation from his cup, which, he said, made it extremely light and
     digestible.

     Years after, that still more extraordinary man, Napoleon Bonaparte,
     became so partial to it, that he made a constant use of it, and it
     has often been remarked by those who surrounded his person, that
     after the great excitement and fatigue of a battle he has often
     partaken of two or three cups, which seemed to restore all the
     strength and energy which used to characterize that great man; on
     ordinary occasions one cup would suffice him, but served more _à la
     militaire_, not being poured so scientifically as did the Fernaise
     philosopher.

     The approval of this mixed beverage by two such eminent characters
     speaks volumes in favor of the Cho-ca, which ought to be
     immediately introduced in England. It will also, no doubt, interest
     you to learn that the first cup of coffee ever introduced in Europe
     was made and presented to Louis XIV, at his magnificent palace of
     Versailles, by the Ambassador from the Sublime Porte in the year
     1664, when the noble potentate, whose palate was as delicate as he
     was himself great, pronounced it excellent; and immediately
     perceived the immense advantage it would be to introduce such a
     delicacy into France as food, which a short time after took place,
     and was very successfully received there; also the chocolate, which
     is made from cacao, was first introduced to the Cardinal Mazarin,
     who, having partook of the first cup like Louis XIV. did of the
     coffee, and not a worse judge than his illustrious master,
     remunerated with a handsome reward its inventor. It is much to be
     regretted that such interesting and useful subjects have never yet
     attracted the attention of our great Painters, instead of
     continually tracing on innumerable yards of canvass the horrors of
     war, the destruction of a fleet by fire and water, the plague, the
     storm, the earthquake, or an eruption and destruction of a city by
     an avalanche or an inundation; if we cannot do without those
     painful historical reminiscences, why not add to those mournful
     collections a group of Louis XIV. and his court at Versailles,
     where he, magnificently dressed, was receiving from the hands of
     the said Pacha, not a cup of coffee, but a branch of that plant
     covered with its precious berries; and why not also, as a pendant,
     Mazarin surrounded by his satellites, taking the first cup of
     chocolate; or the characteristic Voltaire pouring a cup of Cho-ca
     to Frederic the Great in his tent on the field of Potsdam? These
     subjects seem to have been entirely neglected in being immortalized
     on canvass, why? because they have never done harm or evil to any
     one; but, on the contrary, have, are, and ever will prove to be,
     among the greatest boons ever conferred upon humanity: it would
     also engrave in our minds, as well as in our history, to what
     mortals we are indebted for the importation and introduction of
     such important productions, which daily constitute a part of our
     comforts, and have conferred an everlasting benefit on mankind;
     but, as usual, dear Eloise, you will no doubt reproach me for
     having so much enthusiasm; however, as on this subject you have
     been tolerably quiet lately, I not only here inclose you the
     receipt, but also two of the thin round cakes of this new aliment,
     the Cho-ca, which will produce two cups by making it as follows:--


880. _Cho-ca._--Scrape or grate it; put a pint of milk in a stewpan or
chocolate-pot, and place it on the fire, with two ounces of sugar, boil
it, put the Cho-ca in it, and stir it well for two minutes, and serve.




ON CARVING.


     You reproach me for not having said a word about carving; I have
     not done so, as I think that is an accomplishment which our sex
     need not study, but at the same time it is well to know a little of
     it. It is rather difficult to give you a correct description
     without drawings, but a few general remarks may be useful.

     Cut Beef, Veal, Ham, Tongue, and Breasts of Poultry, with a sharp
     knife, very thin; Mutton, Lamb, and Pork rather thicker.

     Never rise from your seat to carve; never cut across the grain of
     the meat, that is, not across the ribs of beef, as I have seen
     some persons do, and Mr. B. tells me is often done at clubs, but it
     is only those do so who do not know how to carve or appreciate the
     true flavor of the meat.

     Never place a fork through the back of a fowl, in order to carve
     the leg and wings, but run the knife gently down each side the
     breast, detaching the leg and wing at the same time, which is
     greatly facilitated by the use of the Tendon Separator--one of
     which I purchased at Bramah's, in Piccadilly; it is the greatest
     boon ever conferred on a bad carver: the directions for using it
     are given with it. If it was more generally used, there would be no
     more birds flying across the table in the faces of guests; no more
     turkeys deposited in a lady's or gentleman's lap; no more splashing
     of gravy to spoil satin dresses; but all would be divided with the
     greatest facility, and in the most elegant manner, and the poultry
     would look much better at table.

     Never cut up the body of poultry at table, that should always be
     left; but game should be cut up, as many epicures prefer the
     backbone. For a sirloin of beef the under part of the loin should
     always be cut when hot, and the upper part cut straight from the
     backbone towards the outside of the ribs, by this plan you will not
     spoil the appearance of the joint.

     Ribs of Beef should be carved in the same way, cutting thin and
     slanting.

     Round of Beef: cut a slice half an inch thick from the outside, and
     then carve thin slices, with a little fat.

     Aitch-bone, the same.

     Fillet of Veal, the same.

     Loin of Veal, carve as the Sirloin of Beef, serving some of the
     kidney, and fat to each person.

     Shoulder of Veal, begin from the knuckle, cut thin and slanting.

     Saddle of Mutton will, if properly carved, serve a great many
     persons; instead of cutting a long slice the whole length, put your
     knife under the meat and cut it away from the bone, then cut it
     like thin chops, serving lean and fat together; according to the
     usual plan, a saddle of mutton will serve but few people, and the
     flavor of the meat is not so good as when served this way.

     Necks and Loins: the bones should be severed by a small meat-saw,
     and not a chopper, and the bone cut through when serving, and carve
     slanting.

     Haunches are usually carved by making a cut near the knuckle and
     cutting a slice from that through the loin; but by a plan I have
     adopted, I find that the meat eats better, and the joint goes
     farther. I carve it like the leg and saddle, that is, I cut a slice
     out of the leg part and a slice from the loin, and serve together.
     This is more economical, but would not do for venison.

     Lamb.--For Leg and Shoulders, proceed as for Mutton. The Ribs, when
     well prepared and the bones properly separated, carve into cutlets,
     and serve with a piece of the brisket.

     Quarter of Lamb: the ribs should be sawed through, and the bones
     disjointed previous to cooking. The shoulder should be then nicely
     removed, the seasoning added; then divide the ribs and serve one
     part of the brisket to each person.

     Pork: proceed like the Mutton.

     In carving a Ham, remove a thick slice, of about one inch, flat cut
     slantways from the knuckle-end--a Tongue, begin three inches from
     the tip, and cut thin slanting slices.




LETTER No. XXI


     THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE.

     MY DEAR ELOISE,--Having now arrived at the conclusion of our
     labors, during which you have in many instances thought me rather
     severe, and perhaps too _exigeant_ in my remarks, especially about
     the selection, preparation, and cooking of food in general, which
     even to the last I must maintain, that for want of judgment and a
     little care, the greatest part of the nutrition of our aliments is
     often destroyed, which constitutes a considerable waste, being of
     no good to any one, but an evil to everybody; and when you consider
     the monstrous quantity of food our fragile bodies consume in this
     sublunary sphere during the course of our life, the truth of my
     observation will be more apparent, and make you agree with me that
     in every instance people ought really to devote more time, care,
     and personal attention to their daily subsistence, it being the
     most expensive department through life of human luxury. I shall,
     for example, give you a slight and correct idea of it, which I am
     confident you never before conceived. For this I shall propose to
     take seventy years of the life of an epicure, beyond which age many
     of that class of "bon vivants" arrive, and even above eighty, still
     in the full enjoyment of degustation, &c., (for example,
     Talleyrand, Cambacérès, Lord Sefton, &c.;) if the first of the said
     epicures when entering on the tenth spring of his extraordinary
     career, had been placed on an eminence, say, the top of Primrose
     hill, and had had exhibited before his infantine eyes the enormous
     quantity of food his then insignificant person would destroy before
     he attained his seventy-first year,--first, he would believe it
     must be a delusion; then, secondly, he would inquire, where the
     money could come from to purchase so much luxurious extravagance?
     But here I shall leave the pecuniary expenses on one side, which a
     man of wealth can easily surmount when required. So now, dearest,
     for the extraordinary fact: imagine on the top of the
     above-mentioned hill a rushlight of a boy just entering his tenth
     year, surrounded with the recherché provision and delicacies
     claimed by his rank and wealth, taking merely the medium
     consumption of his daily meals. By closely calculating he would be
     surrounded and gazed at by the following number of quadrupeds,
     birds, fishes, &c.:--By no less than 30 oxen, 200 sheep, 100
     calves, 200 lambs, 50 pigs; in poultry, 1200 fowls, 300 turkeys,
     150 geese, 400 ducklings, 263 pigeons; 1400 partridges, pheasants,
     and grouse; 600 woodcocks and snipes; 600 wild ducks, widgeon, and
     teal; 450 plovers, ruffes, and reeves; 800 quails, ortolans, and
     dotterels, and a few guillemôts and other foreign birds; also 500
     hares and rabbits, 40 deer, 120 Guinea fowl, 10 peacocks, and 360
     wild fowl. In the way of fish, 120 turbot, 140 salmon, 120 cod, 260
     trout, 400 mackerel, 300 whitings, 800 soles and slips, 400
     flounders, 400 red mullet, 200 eels, 150 haddocks, 400 herrings,
     5000 smelts, and some hundred thousand of those delicious silvery
     whitebait, besides a few hundred species of fresh-water fishes. In
     shell-fish, 20 turtle, 30,000 oysters, 1500 lobsters or crabs,
     300,000 prawns, shrimps, sardines and anchovies. In the way of
     fruit, about 500 lbs. of grapes, 360 lbs. of pine-apples, 600
     peaches, 1400 apricots, 240 melons, and some hundred thousand
     plums, greengages, apples, pears, and some millions of cherries,
     strawberries, raspberries, currants, mulberries, and an abundance
     of other small fruit, viz., walnuts, chestnuts, dry figs and plums.
     In vegetables of all kinds, 5475 pounds weight, and about 2434¾
     pounds of butter, 684 pounds of cheese, 21,000 eggs, 800 do.
     plovers'. Of bread, 4½ tons, half a ton of salt and pepper, near
     2½ tons of sugar; and, if he had happened to be a covetous boy,
     he could have formed a fortification or moat round the said hill
     with the liquids he would have to partake of to facilitate the
     digestion of the above-named provisions, which would amount to no
     less than 11,673¾ gallons, which may be taken as below:--49
     hogsheads of wine, 1368¾ gallons of beer, 584 gallons of
     spirits, 342 liqueur, 2394¾ gallons of coffee, cocoa, tea, &c.,
     and 304 gallons of milk, 2736 gallons of water, all of which would
     actually protect him and his anticipated property from any young
     thief or fellow schoolboy, like Alexandre Dumas had protected Dante
     and his immense treasure from the pirates in his island of Monte
     Christo. You now, dearest, fancy that I am exaggerating in every
     way; but to convince you, and to prevent your puzzling your brain
     to no purpose, I also enclose you a medium scale of the regular
     meals of the day, from which I have taken my basis, and in sixty
     years it amounts to no less than 33¾ tons weight of meat,
     farinaceous food and vegetables, &c.; out of which I have named in
     detail the probable delicacies that would be selected by an epicure
     through life. But observe that I did not count the first ten years
     of his life, at the beginning of which he lived upon pap, bread and
     milk, &c., also a little meat, the expense of which I add to the
     age from then to twenty, as no one can really be called an epicure
     before that age; it will thus make the expenses more equal as
     regards the calculation. The following is the list of what I
     consider his daily meals:--

     _Breakfast._--Three quarters of a pint of coffee, four ounces of
     bread, one ounce of butter, two eggs, or four ounces of meat, or
     four ounces of fish.

     _Lunch._--Two ounces of bread, two ounces of meat, or poultry, or
     game, two ounces of vegetables, and half a pint of beer or a glass
     of wine.

     _Dinner._--Half a pint of soup, a quarter of a pound of fish, half
     a pound of meat, a quarter of a pound of poultry, a quarter of a
     pound of savory dishes or game, two ounces of vegetables, two
     ounces of bread, two ounces of pastry or roasts, half an ounce of
     cheese, a quarter of a pound of fruit, one pint of wine, one glass
     of liqueur, one cup of coffee or tea; at night one glass of spirits
     and water.

     Now that I have given you these important details, perhaps you will
     give me some little credit for my exaction and severity respecting
     the attention which ought to be daily paid to the indispensable and
     useful art of cookery by our middle classes. I shall also observe
     to you, that those masses of provisions above described in the
     exposé of sixty years, have been selected, dressed, and served, by
     scientific hands, every real epicure choosing through life the best
     cook, and consequently the best of provisions, which, had they have
     fallen into the hands of inexperienced persons, would very likely
     have wasted one third, thereby increasing the expenses, and never
     giving any real satisfaction to the consumer; therefore let us act
     in a small way as becomes us, as it is for the wealthy according to
     their incomes; let every housekeeper devote more time to the study
     of domestic and practical economy; in many instances it will
     increase their incomes as well as their daily comforts, as I
     remarked to you that the pleasures of the table being not only the
     most expensive part of human luxury, but also the soul of
     sociability, require more attention bestowed upon it than is done
     at the present day.

Fare you well,

HORTENSE.






INDEX.


Acid, 57

A-la-mode Beef, 164, 165

Albumen, 158

Almond Water, 42

Almond Cake, Iced, 304
  Ice, White, 297

Aitch-Bone of Beef, 122

Aliment, a New, 345

Apple Bread, 284
  Charlotte, 282
  Compote, 307, 308
  Dumplings, 294
  Flanc, 275
  Fritters, 281
  Jelly, 320
  sauté in Butter, 285
  Pie, 296
  Pudding, 294
  Vol-au-Vent, 273

Apples, Baked, 45
  and Fig Beverage, 45
  and Rice Pudding, 47
  with Rice, 283
  with Butter, 284

Apricot Compote, 308, 309, 310
  Fritters, 282
  Ice Cream, 317
  Marmalade, 318
  Nougat, 278
  Pudding, 294

Arrow-root, 39
  Jelly, 40
  Water, 44
  Broth, 34

Artichokes, 259
  Jerusalem, 81, 259

Asparagus, 253
  with Eggs, 217

Aspic of Meat, 240


Bacon, to choose, 18, 140
  to boil, 141
  to broil, 19

Baking, on, 60

Barley Lemonade, 42

Barley Orangeade, 43

Barley Water, 41

Batter for Fritters, 305

Beans, Broad, 259
  French, 259
    à la Maître d'Hôtel, 259
  Haricot, 260
    Young, 260
      à la Bretonne, 261

Beef, on, 118
  A-la-mode, 164, 165
  Aitch-Bone of, 122
  Brisket of, 122
  Croquettes of, 167
  Choice of, 118
  Essence of, 36
  Family Salad of, 167
  Fillets of, Broiled, 165
    Sauté, 166
  to hang, 118
  Hashed, 158
  Minced, 166
  Miroton, 159, 160
  Palates, 160
    à la Bretonne, 161
    à la Poulette, 161
    à la Maître d'Hôtel, 161
  Pickle for, à la Garrick, 242
  Pressed, 242
  remains of, 158
  Ribs of, Braised, 119
    Larded, 241
    Roasted, 119
  Round of, Salted, 121
    cold, 121
  Rump Steak, Stewed, 164
  Half-round of, silver side, 121
  Salt, remains of, 169
  Salt, Bubble and Squeak, 163
  Sirloin of, 119
  Stewed Rump of, 120
  Spiced, 242
  Tea, 36

Beignet Soufflé, 281

Beet-root, 258

Beurre Noir, or Black Butter, 98

Beverage, Refreshing, 43, 44

Bills of Fare, 339

Biscuit Soufflé, 301
  Cocoa-Nut, 325
  Cream, 326
  Moss, 325
  Rout, 325

Blackberry Pudding, 294

Black-Pudding, broiled, 20

Blancmange, 290

Bloaters, 15

Boiling, on, 60

Boudins of Fowl, 197
  Turkey, 197

Bottoms and Tops, to make, 11

Braising, on, 60

Braise-Roast, 147

Boil, 148

Bread, to make, 10
  and Milk, 30
  and Apple, 284

Breakfast Table, 7, 26

Brocoli, 257

Broiling, 63

Broth, Arrow-root, 34
  Chicken, 37, 53
  Eel, 38
  Mutton, 33
  Rice, 34
  French Herb, 44
  Seasoned, 33
  Semoulina, 34
  Turkey, 147
  Various, 34
  Vermicelli, 34
  Veal, 35

Brown Stock, 77

Browning, 78

Brioche Rolls, to make, 12

Brussels Sprouts, 259

Bubble and Squeak, 163

Buns, to make, 12
  Butter, 334
  Anchovy, 117
  Burnt, 217
  Lobster, 117
  Melted, 112
  Maître d'Hôtel, 117
  Ravigote, 117


Cacao, 25

Cake, Almond, 325
  Cinnamon, 326
  Ginger, 326
  Pound, 324
  Queen's, 324
  Rout, 325
  Savoy, in Moulds, 322

Cake, Savoy, or Ladies' Fingers, 323
  Shrewsbury, 326
  Sponge, 323
    small, 324
  St. James's, 327
  Royal Iceing for, 312

Calf's Brains, à la Maître d'Hôtel, 175
    fried, 175
    to prepare, 128
  Ears, stewed, 174
  Feet, 53, 214, 240
  Feet Jelly, 286
  Head, 128, 130
    Curry, 213
    Hollandaise, 130
    with Mushrooms, 130
    with Tomatos, 130
  Heart, roasted, 172
  Liver, English fashion, 172
    fried, 175
    sautéd, 172
    stewed, 175
  Sweetbreads, 173
    au Gratin, 174
    another way, 173

Caper Sauce, 113

Capillaire, 330

Capon, boiled, 151
  and Cresses, 227
  à l'Estragon, 157
  Pie, 236
  Roast, 150
  Roast braised, 147
  Stewed, 151

Capilotade of Poultry, 193

Carp, baked, 106
  Sauce Matelote, 106

Carrot Pudding, 292
  with Poulards, 152
  Soup, 89
    White, 89
  Sauce, 73

Carving, 346

Cauliflower, 257
  Gratin, with Cheese, 257
  Purée, Soup, 71, 89

Celery, 256

Cheesecakes, 229
  Lemon, 280
  Maids of Honor, 280
  Puff, 303

Cheese Soufflé, 304
  Raminole, 303

Charlotte, Apple, 282
  Russe, 289

Cheese, to make, 304

Charlotte, Strawberry, 289

Chartreuse of Fruit, 290

Cherry Draught, 44
  Compote, 309, 311

Cherry Marmalade, 319
  Omelette, 281
  Vol-au-Vent, 271
  Pudding, 295

Chestnut Pudding, 296

Chicken, Boiled, 53, 193
  Braised, 192
  Broth, 37, 53
  Curry, 210
  Italian way, 153
  Pie, 203
  Roast Braised, 192
  Roast, for Invalids, 53
  Spring, 228
  Stewed, 150

Chicorée Sauce, 72

Choice of Pork, 139

Choca, 345, 346

Chocolate, 25
  Italian, 25
  Iceing for Cakes, 312
  Ice Cream, 316

Choice of Meat, 118

Chopping of Herbs, 267

Chump of Veal, 125, 127

Clear Soup, 79

Clarify Stock, to, 79

Cock-a-leekie Soup, 83

Cocoa, 25, 26
  Nut Biscuits, 325

Cod, Boiled, 95
  with Oysters, 95

Coffee, on, 20
  to choose, 22
  where first used in London, 21
  to make, 22
  French, 23
  White, 23
  made with a filter, 24
  another way, 24

Cold Ham, 141, 240

Conger Eel, Stewed, 110

Confectioner's Paste, 270

Conversation on Household Affairs, 336

Compote of Pigeons, 200
  of Fruits, 310

Cooling Drink, 42
  Lemonade, 45

Cow Heels, 169

Crab Curry, 215

Cranberry Pie, 296

Cresses with Pullet, 227

Cream, Bohemian Jelly, 288
  Clouted, 335
  Coffee Soufflé, 302
  Coffee Ice, 316
  Pastry Sauté, 286
  Omelette Soufflé, 301
  Rice, 299
  Sauce, 116
  with Spinach, 260

Crécy Soup, 89

Croquettes of Fowl, 195
  Macaroni, 285
  Rice, 285

Crumpets, to make, 11
  to toast, 9
  to serve, 10

Crusts of Fruit, 278
  Madeira, 279

Cucumbers, 258
  Brown Sauce, 67
  White Sauce, 71, 73
  with Poulards, 152

Curaçao Jelly, 287

Currant Jelly, 320
  with Omelette, 281
  Red, White & Black for Puddings, 294
  and Raspberry Pie, 295
    Compote, 311
    Salad, 322
  Sweetmeat of, 320

Curry, Beef, 212
  Calf's Head, Feet, and Tail, 213, 214
  Chicken, 210
    with Paste, 210
  Crab, 215
  Fillets of Haddock, 216
    Sole, 216
    Whiting, 216
  Game, 221
  Lamb, 212, 213
  Lamb's Head, 214
  Lobster, 214
  Mutton, 212
  Ox Tail, 214
  Oyster, 215
  Pork, 212
  Prawn, 215
  Rabbit, 211
  Salmon, 215
  Skate, 216
  Sauce, 69
  Tripe, 214
  Turbot, 216
  Veal, 211
    Breast of, 212

Custard Pudding, 47, 364


Damson Pie, 295
  Pudding, 294

Dartoise Fourrée, 278

Demi-Plum Pudding, 292

Dessert, 305

Dewberry and Raspberry Pie, 295

Diablotins, 304

Dinner, Nursery, 28
  Table, 327

D'Office, Paste, 270

Dried Haddock, 16
  Mackerel, 97
  Sprats, 17

Draught, Cherry, 44

Drink, Cooling, 42
  New, 41
  Strengthening, 43

Dry Toast, 9

Ducks, on, 156
  à l'Aubergiste, 157
  to choose, 156
  Roasted, 156
  Stewed with Peas, 156, 198
    Turnips, 157, 199
  Varieties of, 156

Ducklings, 228
  Pie, 236
  Stewed with Peas, 156
    Turnips, 157
  Remains of, 157

Duck, Wild, 230
  Hashed, 225
    with Orange Sauce, 225

Ears, Calf's, Stewed, 174

Ecarlate of Fowl, 153

Eels, on, 109
  to kill, 109
  Broth, 38
  Fried, 109
  Pie, 205
  Spitchcocked, 110
  Skinned, 109
  Stewed, 109
  à la Tartare, 110

Effects of Fish, 93

Eggs au Beurre, 13
  Baked, 216
    with Asparagus, 217
  with burnt Butter, 217
  Hard, 14
  in Cases, 218
  with Cheese, 218
  to choose, 12
  with Green Peas, 217
  with Ham, 19
  plain Boiled, 13
  Poached, 14
  Mashed, 217
  Meagre, 217
  with Mushrooms, 217
  Sauce, 112
  Snow, 217
  with Sprue Grass, 217
  sur le plat, 14
  and Toast, 14
  à la Tripe, 217

Endive Sauce or Purée, 72

Entrées, or Made Dishes, 158
  of Game, 220

Epicure, the Septuagenarian, 348

Escalops, 250

Escaloped Oysters, 250

Eschalot Sauce, 66

Essence of Beef, 36


Fennel Sauce, 112

Feet, Lamb's, 52, 185
  Ox, 169
  Calf's, 53

Fish, on, 93
  French-Anglais way of stewing 110
  for Breakfast, 15
  Carp, 106
  Cod, 95
  Conger Eel, 110
  Eels, 109
  Effects of, 93
  Forcemeat of, 252
  Flounders, 104
  Haddock, 96
  Herrings, 100
  Mackerel, 97
  Maids, 104
  Perch, 108
  Pike, 105
  Red Mullet, or Sur Mullet, 99
  Salmon, 94
  Sauces, 111
  Salad, 247
  Salt, 95
  Skate, 104
  Smelts, 101
  Soles, 103
  Sturgeon, 96, 97
  Tench, 108
  Trout, 107
  Turbot, 102
  White Bait, 101
  Whiting, 99

Fish, Shell--
  Escalops, 250
  Oysters, 250
  Razor or Solen, 250
  Prawns, 250
  Shrimps, 251

Fisherman's Soup, 86

Fillet of Beef, broiled, 165
  Veal, cold, 241
    roast, 125

Flancs, 274

Flanc of Apple, 275
  Fruit, 274
  Meringue, 274
  what they are, 158

Flounders, on, 104
  Water Souchet, 104
  Fried, 101

Food, light, for invalids, 33

Forcemeat, on, 251
  to make, 251
  of Fish, 252
  Panada for, 252
  of Veal, 253
  of Whitings, 252

Fondu, Parmesan, 302
  Neapolitan, 302
    simple, 302
  Stilton Cheese, 303

Fourrée, Dartoise, 278
  Gâteau, 277
  Rissole, 276

Fowls, on, 149
  Blanquettes of, 194
  Boiled, 194
  Braised, 194
  Broiled, 194, 195
  Boudins of, 197
  Croquettes of, 195
  Fricassée of, 195
  Fried, 193
  Hashed, Indian, 193
  Italian way, 153
  à l'Ecarlate, 153
  à la Marengo, 196
  Minced, 194
  Pie, 235
  Pillau, 209
  Pulled, for invalids, 54
  Roast braised, 148
  Sauté, 194, 196, 197, 199
  Salad, 249
  to truss, 150

Fowl, Guinea, 229
  Pea, 229

French Beans, 259
  Coffee, 23
  Herb Broth, 44
  Panada, 41, 252
  Remedy for Colds, 38
  Plums Compote, 309
  Fritadella, 190
  Fritters, Apple, 282
    Apricot, 282
    Orange, 282
    Peach, 282
    Soufflé, 282

Fruit, Chartreuse of, 298
  Crusts, 278
  Flanc of, 274
  Rissolettes, 273
  Puddings, 294
  Pies, 296
  Salads of, 321, 322
  Vol-au-Vent, 271
  Wall, 295

Fricandeau of Veal, 170
  to carve, 171
  to dress, 171
  Various ways, 171

Fritadella, 190

Frying, on, 61

Fry, Lamb's, 138

Fumet de Gibier Sauce, 233


Game, choice of, 229
  to keep, 229
  Made-dishes of, 220
  Salad of, 248
  Soup, 92
  Tureen of, 237
  Entrées of, 220
  Dunbird, 231
  Garganey, 231
  Gorcock, 230
  Grouse, 230
    Red, 230
    White, 230
  Half Birds, 231
  Lark, 232
  Moorcock, or Gorcock, 230
  Moor-game, 230
  Partridge, 230
    Red-legged, 230
  Pea Fowl, 229
  Pheasant, 229
    Hybrid, 229
  Plovers, 231
  Pochard, 231
  Ptarmigan, 230
  Quails, 232
  Red Heads, 231
  Snipes, 232
  Teal, 231
  Whim, 231
  Whewer, 231
  Widgeons, 231
    Great Headed, 231
  Woodcock, 231

Garlic Sauce, 68

Garniture for Omelettes, 219

Garum Sauce, 111
  Sociorum, 111

Gâteau Fourré, 277

Galantine, to cook, 238
  Jelly, 287
  Turkey, 238
  Veal, 241
  how got, 117

Gibelote of Rabbit, 200

Giblets, 85, 155

Glaze, 78

Gold Jelly, 287

Goose, 153
  to choose, 153
  Giblets, 155
  Hashed, 199
  Pie, 236
  Preserved, 155
  Stewed, 155
  Stuffing, 154
  Roasted, 154, 155
  Trussed, 154

Gooseberry, Green, Compote, 311
  Pie, 295
  Pudding, 294
  Vol-au-Vent, 272
  with Rhubarb, 297

Gosling, Roast, 228

Grass, Sprue, 255

Gratin of Lobster, 245

Gravy, Brown, 77
  Spinach and, 260
  Turkey, 145

Greengage Compote, 308, 311

Greengage Pudding, 294

Groats, Scotch, Gruel, 40

Grouse Pie, 204, 236
  Scotch Plan of Cooking, 222

Gruel, 40
  Sago, 40

Guinea Fowls, Roasted, 229


Haddocks, Baked, 96
  Dried, 16
  Fillets of, 216

Ham, Cold, 141, 240
  and Eggs, 19
  Hot, 141

Hamburgh Beef, 122

Hard Eggs, 14

Hare, Jugged, 226, 227
  Roasted, 233

Haricot Beans, 260

Hartshorn Jelly, 287

Haunch of Mutton, 130
  Venison, 142

Head, Calf's, 128, 130
    Hollandaise, 130
    with Mushrooms, 130
      Tomatos, 130
    Curry, 213
  Lamb's, 138
  Pig's, 243
  Pig's, Sauce for, 243
  Pig's, to braise, 243

Heart, Calf's, Roasted, 172
  Lamb's, 185
  Sheep's, 184

Herbs with Omelette, 219
  Minced, Sauce, 67
  Italian Sauce, 67
  Chopping, 267

Herrings, Boiled, 100
  Broiled, 100
  Toast, 15

Hotch Potch, 87


Ice, Almond, White, 297
  Apricot, 317
  Chocolate, 316
  Coffee, 316
  Lemon, 316
  Orange, 317
  Pine Apple, 316
  Strawberry, 317
  Vanilla, 315

Iced Almond Cake, 304

Imperial, 46

Indian Hash, 193

Invalids, Comforts for, 33
  Fish for, 49
  Food, 33
  Meat, 33, 51
  Partridges, 54
  Pigeons, 54
  Poultry, 53
  Puddings, 47

Irish Stew, 178
  Soup, 82

Isinglass Jelly, 287

Italian Drops, 327


Jam, Apricot, 318
  Quince, 318
  Raspberry, 319
  Strawberry, 319

Jardinière, Neck of Lamb, 136
  Sauce, 137

Jelly, Apple, 320
  Arrow-root, 40
  Bohemian Cream, 288
  Calf's Foot, 286
  Curaçao, 287
  Currant, 320
  Gelatine, 287
  Gold, 287
  Hartshorn, 287
  Isinglass, 287
  Marasquino, 287
  Lemon, 288
  Orange, 288
  Punch, 287
  Quince, 287, 320
  Rum, 287
  Silver, 287
  Whipped, 288
  of Meat, to clarify, 239

Jesuits, Turkeys, so called, 144

Julienne Soup, 81


Kidneys, Bread-crumbed, 18
  Maître d'Hôtel, 18
  on Toast, 17
  Ox, 168
  Omelette of, 220
  Pudding, 168, 207
  Sautéd, 18
  Sheep's, 17, 176

Kidney Beans, 259

Knuckle of Veal, 127, 240


Lait de Poule, 38
  Sweet, 38

Lamb, 136
  Breast of, Broiled, 138
    Curried, 212
  Chop, 52, 166, 186
  Curry, 212
  Cutlets, 185
  to cut up, 136
  Feet, 52, 185
  Fry, 138
  Head, 138, 139, 213
  Heart, 185
  Leg of, 137
  Loin of, 136
  Neck of, 136
  Pie, 201, 203
  Papillote, 186
  Pudding, 206
  Quarter of, 136
  Quality of, 136
  Remains of, 184
  Ribs of, 136
  Saddle of, Russian fashion, 137
  Sautéd, 186
  Shoulder of, 137

Larks à la Minute, 226
  Pie, 226

Laver, 263

Lentils, 262
  Soup, 90

Letters--
  I, 5;
  II, 6;
  III, 26;
  IV, 27;
  V, 28;
  VI, 55;
  VII, 56;
  VIII, 57;
  IX, 58;
  X, 58;
  XI, 58;
  XII, 120;
  XIII, 178;
  XIV, 181;
  XV, 244;
  XVI, 305;
  XVII, 327;
  XVIII, 332;
  XIX, 334;
  XX, 345;
  XXI, 348.

Leveret, 233

Lemonade, Barley, 42
  Cooling, 45, 332

Lemon Cheesecakes, 280
  Jelly, 288
  Soufflé, 299, 300

Leg of Pork, 139, 142
  Lamb, 137

Liaison of Eggs, 68

Liver, Calf's, 172, 175

Lobster Butter, 116
  Curry, 214
  à la Crême, 114
  Gratin of, 245
  Miroton of, 245
  Omelette, 220
  Plain, 246
  Salad, 246
  Sauce, 113, 114

Loin of Mutton, 134
  Pork, 140
  Veal, 125
    Braised, 127

Luncheon, 27


Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel, 98
  au Beurre Noir, 98
  Boiled, 97
  Dried, 97
  Pickled, 107
  Stewed, 98
  Soft Roe Sauce, 111

Macaroons, 326

Macaroni, 265
  Croquettes, 285
  à l'Estoufade, 266
  au Gratin, 266
  à l'Italienne, 266
  à la Napolitaine, 266
  Pudding, 47
  Soup, 82
  to blanch, 265

Macedoine Omelette, 281

Madeira Crusts, 279

Made Dishes of Beef, 158
  Game, 220
  Remains of Veal, 175

Maître d'Hôtel Sauce, 73

Maids of Honor, 280

Marasquino Jelly, 287

Marinade of Salmon, 248

Marrow, Vegetable, 257
  Pudding, 294

Matelote, 116

Marmalade with Pancake, 282
  of Apple, 318
  of Apricot, 318
  of Cherries, 319
  of Pine Apple, 322

Mashed Eggs, 217

Meagre Eggs, 217
  Soup, 88, 91
  Purée, 91

Meat, Aspic of, 240
  for Breakfast, 17
  for Invalids, 33
  Remains of, 175

Melted Butter, 112

Mephistopheleian Sauce, 75

Meringues à la Cuillerée, 277
  Flanc, 276

Milk and Bread, 30
  Rice, 38, 39
  Semoulina, 39
  Tapioca, 39
  Vermicelli, 39

Minced Beef, 166
  Fowl, 194
  Meat, 295
    Pie, 295
    Pudding, 292
  Pheasant, 222

Mint Sauce, 68

Minute, Snipes à la, 224

Miroton of Beef, 159, 160
  Lobster, 245
  Lobster Salad, 246

Moorgame Pie, 236

Mould Pudding, 291

Mock Turtle, Brown, 85
  White, 84

Muffins, to make, 10
  toast, 9

Mulberry Pie, 295

Mulligatawny Soup, 85

Muria Sauce, 111

Mullet, or Sur Mullet, to cook, 99
  Papillote, 99
  Sauté, 100

Mussel Sauce, 115

Mushrooms, Blanched, 74
  with Eggs, 220
  Omelette of, 220
  Sauce, 66, 68, 73, 261

Mutton, on, 130
  Boiled, 132
  Broth, 33, 34, 82
  Chop, 51, 178
    Soyer's, 180, 182
    Sauté, 180
  Breast of, Curry, 212
  Curry, 212
  Cutlet, various ways, 182, 183, 184
    Plain, 51
  French Ragout of, 177
  Haunch of, 130
  Leg of, Roasted, 132
    Boiled, 132
    à la Bretonne, 133
    Braised, 134
    Stewed, 134
  Loin of, Roasted, 134
  Loin of, à la Bretonne, 133
  Neck of, Roasted, 134
    Boiled, 135
  Pie, 202
  Pillau, 210
  Pudding, 206
  Saddle of, 131
    à la Polonaise, 131
  Shoulder of, Roasted, 133
    Boiled, 133
    Baked, with Apples 133
    Provincial, 134
    Stuffed and Baked, 133

Neapolitan Fondue, 302

Neck of Lamb, 136
  Pork, 140
  Veal, 126
  Venison, 143

Nectarine Pudding, 297

New Drink, 41

Nursery Dinner, 28


Omelettes, 15, 219
  Asparagus, 219
  Bacon, 220
  Cherry, 281
  Currant Jelly, 281
  Garniture for, 219
  Ham, 219
  Herb, 219
  Kidney, 220
  Lobster, 220
  Mushroom, 220
  Macedoine of, 281
  Oyster, 219
  Parmesan, 219
  Peach, 281
  Peas, 219
  Preserved Apricot, 281
  Raspberry Jam, 281
  Rum, 281
  Sauté Soufflé, 301
  Sautéd in Cream, 301
  Strawberry, 281
  Sweet, 281

Onion, Button, Sauce, 72
  Purée, 71
  Soup, 91
  Stuffed, 74

Orangeade, 46

Orange Compote, 309, 310
  Fritters, 282
  Salad, 321
  Vol-au-Vent, 272
  Jelly, 288
  Ice, Soufflé, 298
  Sauce, 68

Osmazome, 37, 118

Oxen, to judge, 118
  how cut, 118

Ox-beef, to hang, 118
  Brains, 164
  Cheek, 84
  Feet, 169
  Heart, 162
  Kidneys, 168
  Remains, 169
  Tail Curry, 214
    au Gratin, 162
    à la Jardinière, 161
    Sauce piquante, 162
    Soup, 82
  Tongue, cold, 240
    hot, 240
    fresh, 123
    pickled, 123
    Remains of, 123, 169

Oysters, 250
  Escaloped, 250
  Curry, 215
  Omelette, 219
  Soup, 86
  Sauce, 115
  Stewed, 251


Panada, French, 41, 252

Pancake, with Marmalade, 282

Pap, 29

Parmesan Fondue, 302

Parsnips, with Salt Fish, 95

Partridge, Roasted, 230
  Hashed, 223
  for Invalids, 54
  Pie, 204, 236
  Salmi, 223
  Sautéd with Mushrooms, 223
  Stewed with Cabbage, 222

Palates of Beef, 160
  à la Bretonne, 161
  à la Maître d'Hôtel, 161
  à la Poulette, 161

Papillote Lamb Chops, 186
  Sauce, 69

Paste, Beef Suet, 269
  different sorts of, 268
  D'Office, or Confectioners', 270
  Puff, 268
    Half, 269
    Short, or Pâte à foncer, 269
      for Fruit Tarts, 269

Pastry Cream Sauté, 286
  Turban of, 304

Peach Compote, 307
  Fritters, 282
  Omelette, 281
  Salad, 321
  Vol-au-Vent, 271

Pea-Fowl, 229

Pear Compote, 307
  with Rice, 284
  Pie, 296

Peas and Sprue-grass Sauce, 72
  and Bacon, 74
  French way, 254
  Green, 254
    with Eggs, 217
    Soup, 89, 90
  Stewed, 73
  Winter, 90

Pease Pudding, 209

Perch, Sautéd in Butter, 108
  Hampton Court fashion, 108

Pheasant, Broiled, 220
  Hashed, 221
  Joe Miller's, 221
  Minced, 222
  Pie, raised, 236
  Roasted, 229
  Salmi, 222
  Stewed with Cabbage, 221

Pickle à la Garrick, 242

Pickled Fish, 248
  Mackerel, 107
  Pork, 142
  Salmon, 107
  Trout, 107

Pie, Capon, 236
  Chicken, 203
  Duckling, 236
  Eel, 205
  Fowl, 236
  Goose, 236
  Grouse, 204, 236
  Hare, 236
  Lamb, 201, 203
  Lark, 226
  in Mould, 234
  Mutton, 202
  Moorfowl, 236
  Partridge, 204, 236
  Pigeon, 204, 236
  Pheasant, 236
  Poulard, 236
  Rabbit, 203
  Rump-steak, 202
  Sea, 205
  Veal and Ham, 202, 234
  Fruit, 296
  Apple, 296
  Cherry, 295
  Cranberry, 295
  Currant, 295
  Damson, 295
  Dewberry and Raspberry, 295
  Gooseberry, 295
  Minced Meat, 295
  Mulberry, 295
  Pear, 296
  Plum, 296
  Quince, 296
  Raspberry, 296
  Rhubarb, 296
  Whortleberry, 296

Pies, simple plan of making, 236
  Various, 201

Pigeons en Compote, 200
  for Invalids, 54
  Pie, 204, 236
  Stewed with Peas, 201

Pig, Sucking, 141
  Hind-quarter of, 141

Pig's Cheek, 142
  Feet à la Ste. Menéhould, 189
    Stuffed, 188
  Kidneys, 189
  Head, like Wild Boar's, 243
    to braise, 243

Pike, to cook, 105
  Sauce Matelote, 106

Pillau, Fowl, 209
  Mutton, 210

Pine Apple, 322

Piquante Sauce, 66, 186

Plovers Sautéd with Truffles, 224
  Pie, 236

Plum Beverage, 45
  Compote, 309
  Stewed, 45
  Vol-au-Vent, 273

Poached Eggs, 14

Pork, to cut up, 139
  Best, 139
  to choose, 139
  Neck of, 140
  Salted, 142
  Pickled, 142
  Chine of, 140
  Cutlets, 187, 188
  Hashed, 189
  Hand of, 142
  Leg of, Roasted, 139
    Boiled, 142
  Loin of, à la Piémontaise, 140
    Normandy fashion, 140
  Pudding, 207
  Sparerib of, 140

Porridge, 30

Potatoes, 263
  Varieties of, 263
  Baked, 264
  Boiled, 263
  Fried, 264
    Mashed, 267
  Irish way of Boiling, 265
  à la Lyonnaise, 265
  à la Maître d'Hôtel, 264
  Mashed, 265
  Sandwiches, 163

Poultry, on, 143
  described, 143
  for Invalids, 53
  to draw, 144
  to kill, 143
  to pluck, 144
  en Capillotade, 193

Poulards, Braised, 150
  Boiled, 151
  with Carrots, 152
  with Cucumbers, 152

Poulard Pie, 236
  with Quenelles, 151
  with Rice, 151
  Roasted, 150
  Stewed, 151

Poults, Turkey, 227

Prawn Curry, 215

Preserved Goose, 155

Prussian Cutlets, 191

Pudding, Meat, 205
  Black, 20
  Beefsteak, 205
  Kidney, 207
  Ox-Kidney, 207
  Lamb, 206
  Mutton, 206
  Pease, 209
  Pork, 207
  Rabbit, 208
  Suet, 208
  Toad-in-Hole, 208
  Veal, 207
  Yorkshire, 208
  for Invalids and Children, 47
  Apple and Rice, 47
  Bread, 48
  Bread and Butter, 48
    Small, 48
  Cabinet, 47
  Custard, 47
  Macaroni, 47
  Rice, 47
  Tapioca, 47
  Vermicelli, 47
  in Moulds, 291
  à l'Eloise, 291
  à la Reine, 292
  Carrot, 292
  Chestnut, 296
  Demi-Plum, 292
  Iced Cabinet, 287
  Minced Meat, 292
  Nesselrode, 296
  Trifle, 292
  in Cloths, 293
  Apple, 294
  Apricot, 294
  Blackberry, 294
  Currant, Red and White, 294
  Custard, 294
  Damson, 294
  Fruit, 294
  Gooseberry, 294
  Greengage, 294
  Nectarine, 294
  Marrow, 294
  Peach, 294
  Plum, 293
  Plain Baked, 293
  Plain Bolster, 294
  Plum Bolster, 293
  Raspberry and Cherry, 295
  Rowley Powley, 293
  Rhubarb, 295
  Whorts, 295

Puff Cheesecakes, 303
  Paste, 268

Pulled Fowl for Invalids, 54

Pullets, on, 228
    Roasting, 228
  Roasted, with Cresses, 227

Punch Jelly, 287
  Cold, 333


Quails, 232

Quenelles. Ragout Sauce, 73
  with Tongue, 151

Quince Pie, 296


Rabbit, on, 232
  Roasted, 232
  Curry, 211
  Fricassée of, 199
  Gibelotte of, 200
  Pie, 203
  Pudding, 208

Raised Pies, 235, 236

Ramifolle, 190

Raminole, Cheese, 303

Raspberry Jam, 319
  Omelette, 281
  Pie, 296
  Pudding, 295
  Vinegar, 43

Ratafias, 327

Ravigote Sauce, 67, 117

Refreshing Beverage, 43

Removes, 117, 296

Remains of Meat, 175
  Lamb, 184
  Duck, 157

Rhubarb Compote, 311
  Pie, 296
  Pudding, 295
  Vol-au-Vent, 273

Rice with Apples, 283
  to boil, 267
  Broth, 34
  Croquettes, 285
  Milk, 38, 39
  with Pears, 284
  Pudding, 47
    with Apple, 47
  Poulard with, 151
  Soup, 82
  Water, 41

Rissole Fourrée, 276

Rissolettes, little Fruit, 273

Ribs of Beef, Roasted, 119
  Braised, 119

Roasting, on, 59

Roasts, Second Course, 227

Robert Sauce, 67

Root, Beet, 258

Rolls, to make, 10
  Brioche, 12

Roux, 65

Rump Steak, 52, 124

Rum, Omelette with, 281
  Jelly, 287

Russe, Charlotte, 289

Rusks, to make, 11


Saddle of Lamb, 137

Sago Gruel, 40

Salad, Beef, 167
    and Potatoes, 167
  Fish, 247
  Fowl, 249
  Game, 248
  Lobster, 246
  Miroton, 245
  Plain, 246
  Tartar, 246

Salads of Fruit, 321, 322

Salmon, Boiled, 94
  Broiled, 95
  Curry, 215
  Marinade, 248
  Matelote, 94
  Pickled, 107

Salmi of Partridge, 223
  Pheasant, 222

Salsify, 256

Sandwiches, 333

Sauces, on, 64

Sauce, Anchovy, 112
  Anchovy Butter, 69, 117
  Beans, French, 72
  Beyrout, 114
    for Meat, 115
  Brown, 65, 66
    Cucumber, 67
    Mushroom, 66, 68
  Beurre Noir, 98
  Button Onion, 72
  Caper, 113
  Carrot, 73
  Cream, 116
  Chicorée, 72
  Cauliflower, 71
  Cucumber, 67, 71, 73
  Curry, 69
  Demi-glaze, 65
  Egg, 112
  Endive, 72
  Eschalot, 66
  Fumet de Gibier, 233
  Fennel, 112
  Fish, 111
  Garum, 111
  Garum Sociorum, 111
  Garlic, 68
  Italian Herb, 67
  Jardinière, 136
  Jerusalem Artichoke, 71, 72
  Liaison of Eggs, 68
  Lobster, 113
    New, 113
    à la Crême, 114
    simplified, 114
  Maître d'Hôtel, 73, 117, 186
  Matelote, 116
  Simple, 116
  Mayonnaise, 247
  Melted Butter, 112
  Mephistopheleian, 75
  Minced Herb, 67
  Mint, 68
  Muria, 111
  Mushroom, 66, 68, 73, 74
  Mussel, 115
  Onion, 71, 74
  Orange, 68
  Oyster, 74, 115
  Papillote, 69
  Peas, 72, 73, 74
  Piquante, 66, 186
  Quenelles,73
  Ravigote, 67, 117
  Robert, 67
  Shrimp, 112
  Soft Roe, 111
  Sorrel, 71
  Soyer's, 69
  Spinach, 72, 260
  Tomato, 69, 75
  Tartar, 75, 248
  Turnip, 71, 72
  Tarragon, 67
  White, 64, 71
  Wild Boar's Head, 244
  Wild Fowl, 233

Sardines and Toast, 15

Salt Pork, 142

Sorrel Sauce, 71

Sautéing, on, 62

Sausage Cake, 146, 188

Sausages, to cook, 20
    to choose, 19
  Cambridge, 20
  to sauté, 20, 146
  Atherstone, 20
  with Turkey, 146

Savory Dishes, 234

Seakale, 255

Semoulina Broth, 34
  Milk, 39
  Soup, 82

Shrimp Sauce, 112, 113

Sheep's Brains, 135, 176
  Feet, or Trotters, 176
    Stock from, 177
  Head, 135
  Heart, 184
  Kidneys, 17, 176
  Tongue, 184

Sheep, how to cut up, 130
  which are best, 130

Shell Fish, 250

Silver Jelly, 287

Skate, to cook, 104
  au Beurre Noir, 105
  Curry, 216

Soup, on, 75
  Autumn, 87
  Artichoke, 81, 88
  Cabbage, 87
  Clear, 79
  Carrot, White, 89
  Cauliflower, 89
  Crab, 92
  Crécy, 89
  Fisherman's, 86
  Game, 92
  Giblet, 85
  Hare, 91
  Hotch Potch, 87
  Italian Paste, 81
  Irish, 82
  Julienne, 81
  Lamb's Head, 84
  Lentil, 90
  Macaroni, 82
  Mock Turtle, Brown, 85
    White, 84
  Maigre, 88, 91
  Mulligatawny, 85
  Mutton Broth, 82
  Onion, 91
  Ox Cheek, 84
  Ox Tail, 83
  Oyster, 86
  Palestine, 88
  Pea, 80, 90
  Pot-au-Feu, 92
  Printanière, 80
  Purée of Vegetable, 88
  Rice, 82
  Scotch Cock-a-leekie, 83
  Semoulina, 82
  Spring, 81
  Sole, 86
  Sheep's Head, 84
  Turnip, 81, 89
  Vermicelli, 81
  Wild Fowl, 92

Soufflé, 299
  Beignet, 281
  Biscuit, 301
  Coffee, 302
  Cream, Whipped, 301
  Cheese, 304
  Fritters, 282
  Lemon, 299, 300
  Omelette, 300
    Sauté, 301
    Cream, 301
  Orange Flower, 299
  Orange Iced, 298
  Punch Cake, 298
  Rice Cream, 300
  Vanilla, 302

Smelts, Broiled, 50
  Fried, 101
  for Invalids, 50
  Water Souchet, 51

Soles, small, or Slips, 17
  Boiled, 104
  Fried, 103
  Fillets of Curried, 216
  aux Fines Herbes, 104
  à la Mennière, 103
  Sauté in Oil, 103

Snow Eggs, 217

Snipes à la Minute, 224

Soyer's Chop, 180
  Sauce, 69

Sourcrout, to cook, 262
  Bavarian way, 263

Sparerib of Pork, 140

Spinach, 260
  with Gravy, 260
  with Cream, 260

Sprouts, Brussels, 259

Spring Chickens, 228

Sprats, to cook, 17
  Dried, 17

Sprue-grass, 255
  with Eggs, 217

Steak, Rump, 54, 164

Stewing, on, 60

Stock, on, 76
  for all kinds of Soup, 76
  Brown, 77
  to Clarify, 79
  Economical, 76
  Sheep's Feet, 177

Strawberry Jam, 319
  Omelette, 281
  Salad, 321
  Charlotte, 289
  Vol-au-Vent, 273

Strengthening Drink, 43

Stuffing, Turkey, 148
  Veal, 253

Sturgeon, 96, 97

Sucking Pig, 141
  Hind-quarter of, 141

Sugar, to boil, 313
    color, 312
    clear, 313
  in Grains, 312
  of Lemon, 313
  Spring, 313
  Silk Thread, 315
  Vanilla, 313

Sweetbreads, 173
  Sauté, 173
  au Gratin, 173

Sweet Lait de Poule, 38

Sweetmeat of Currant Jelly, 320


Table, Breakfast, 7

Tapioca Milk, 39
  Pudding, 48

Tarragon Sauce, 67

Tartar Sauce, 75

Tarts, small Fruit, 275

Tartlets, little Fruit, 275

Tea, 24
  how made in France, 21
  Beef,
  new way to make, 25

Teal, a new method of cooking, 225
  à la sans façon, 226

Tench, Stewed, 108
  with Anchovy Butter, 109

Toast, Plain, 8
  Dry, 9
  and Eggs, 14
    Haddock, 15
    Herring, 15
    Kidneys, 17
    Sardines, 15
    Water, 46
  Crumpets, to, 9
  Muffins, 9
  to serve, 9

Toad in a Hole, 208

Tongue, cold Ox, 240
  Fresh, 123
  Remains of, 124, 169
  Sheep's, 184

Tomato Sauce, 69

Tops and Bottoms, 11

Trout à la Bretonne, 107
  Pickled, 107
  River, 107
  à la Twickenham, 107

Trifles, 290

Trifle Pudding, 292

Tripe Curry, 214

Truffles, Sauté of, 262

Turbot, to cook, 102
    French way, 102
  à la Crême, 102

Turban of Almond Cake, 304
  of Boudins of Fowl, 198
  of Pastry, 304

Turkey, Boiled, 146
  Braised, 147
  Broth from, 147
  Blanquette of, 197
  Boudins of, 197
  with Celery Sauce, 147
  to choose, 144
  where from, 144
  Giblets, 155
  Gravy for, 145
  Jerusalem Sauce, 147
  called Jesuits, 144
  Galantine, 238
  to dress, 238
  with Oysters, 147
    Parsley and Butter, 147
    Sausages, 146
    Sausage-cake, 146
  Roasted, 144
  Braised, 148
  Stuffing for, 148
  to truss, 145
  with Tomatos, 147
  Stewed, 149
  Poults, 227

Tureen of Game, 237


Vanilla Cream, 315
  Soufflé, 302

Veal, on, 124
  Breast of, 126
    Stuffed, 127
    Stewed, 127
    Curried, 212
  Broth, 35
    Strengthening, 35
    French fashion, 35
  Curry, 211
  Cutlets, 174
    aux Fines Herbes, 174
    en Papillote, 174
    Sauté, 166
  Chump of, 125
  Fricandeau of, 170
    to dress, 171
    to prepare, 170
    to carve, 171
  with all Sauces, 171
  Fillet of, 241
    Roasted, 125
    Braised, 241
  Forcemeat of, 253
  Galantine of, 241
  and Ham Pie, 202, 234, 236
  Knuckle of, 127, 240
  Loin of, 125, 127
  Neck of, Braised, 126
    with Peas, 126
    with Haricots, 126
    with new Potatoes, 126
  Shoulder of, Stewed, 127
    with Sauce piquante, 126
    Stuffed and Braised, 126
    Cold, 241
    Roasted, 126
    Braised, 126
    Remains of, 175

Vegetables, to cook, 253
  Artichokes, 259
    Jerusalem, 259
  Asparagus, 253
  Beans, French, 259
      à la Maître d'Hôtel, 259
    Gabanza, 262
    Haricot, White, 260
      à la Bretonne, 261
    Kidney, 259
    Windsor, 259
  Beetroot, 258
  Brocoli, 257
  Brussels Sprouts, 259
  Cauliflower, 257
    gratiné with Cheese, 257
  Celery, 256
  Cucumbers, 258
  Laver, 263
  Lentils, 261
  Vegetable Marrow, 257
  Mushrooms, 261
    large, 261
  Potatoes, their Introduction, 263
    Baked, 264
    Boiled, 263
      Irish way, 265
    Fried, 264
    Fried, Mashed, 267
    à la Lyonnaise, 265
    à la Maître d'Hôtel, 264
  Peas, Green, 254
    French way, 254
  Salsifis, 256
  Seakale, 255
  Sourcrout, 262
    Bavarian, 263
  Spinach, 260
    with Gravy, 260
    with Cream, 260
  Sprue Grass, 255
  Truffles, English, 262
    Sauté of, 262

Venison, 142
  where to keep, 142
  how to choose, 142
  Haunch of, 142
  Neck of, 143

Vermicelli Broth, 34
  Milk, 39
  Pudding, 48
  Soup, 81

Victimized Cutlets, 191

Vinegar, Raspberry, 43

Vol-au-Vent, 270
  of Apples, 273
  Cherries, 271
  Fruit, 271
  Gooseberries, 272
  Oranges, 272
    another, 272
    still plainer, 272
  Peaches, 271
  Plums, 273
  Rhubarb, 273
  Strawberries, 273

Water, Barley, 41
  Fresh Fruit, 43
  Jelly, 44
  Rice, 41
  Toast and, 46
  Souchet, 104
  Smelts, 51
  Cresses with Steak, 124

Whitings, Boiled, 49
  Broiled, 16, 49
  Fried, 50, 99
  au Gratin, 99
  Forcemeat of, 252
  Sautéd, 50
  Fillets of, 216

White Bait, to cook, 101
  Sauce, 64, 70

Whipped Jelly, 288

Whorts Pie, 296
  Pudding, 295

Woodcock, Hashed, 224
  à la Lucullus, 223
  Sportsman's fashion, 223

Widgeon, Hashed, 225
  Roasted, 225

Wild Boar's Head, 243
  Sauce, 244

Wild Duck, with Orange Sauce, 225
  Hashed, 225

Wine, Port, Negus, 333
  White, Fillip, 333


Yorkshire Pudding, 208


THE END.


_D. Appleton & Co.'s Publications._




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FOOTNOTES:

[1] This entirely new system of making coffee has never yet been
introduced to the public, and was found out by the author of this work
through the following circumstance: Whilst travelling by night in a
railway train, and arriving in due time at the station, where positively
no less than five minutes are allowed to restore exhausted nature, after
a long and tedious journey, and then, by using a certain portion of
manual strength, to push through the crowd to get at what is called the
refreshment room, after waiting for nearly two minutes for my turn to be
served with some of the boiling liquid which they called coffee, being
as bad as any human being could possibly make it, having probably waited
patiently by the side of a winter's fire until the last train made its
appearance, it tasted anything but palatable; but having a long journey
before me, and requiring something to eat and drink, I was obliged to
put up with it; but before I could even partake of half, or finish
masticating some stale toast or over-buttered muffin, the unsociable
bell violently rung to acquaint the passengers that their appetites were
perfectly satisfied, though that incredulous organ would not let us
believe it; and every one being perfectly aware that railway trains,
like time, wait for no one, the hurry of which event, though unpleasant,
made me escape the swallowing the thick part which was deposited at the
bottom of the cup; rushing out of the refreshment room, I jumped into
the wrong carriage, the fidgetty train having changed its place, and the
time being too short to rectify the mistake, I was obliged to make fresh
acquaintance with my new compagnons de voyage, who happened to be as
much dissatisfied with the steaming-hot refreshment as myself, who had
patronized the steaming Mocha. I was at last much pleased to find a wise
man among my new travelling friends, who said, "I never travel at night
without being provided with a _spirited_ companion;" and pulling out of
his carpet-bag a small bottle and gutta-percha goblet of new invention,
we partook of a drop of the best _eau de vie_ I had ever tasted, which
produced on me the pleasant sensation of being relieved of a very
annoying pain. Grateful for his kindness, and always desirous to improve
the domestic comfort, I told him, in making myself known, that, as soon
as I arrived at the Reform Club, I would try several experiments to
simplify the present method of making coffee; and should I be successful
in my researches, I would forward him the receipt on my arrival in
London. I tried to find my first travelling friends, who, more
unfortunate than myself, got in their proper place, and, consequently,
did not meet with the "spirited" friend I did, vowing they would never
take any more coffee at night, especially in a railway train. Having
forwarded the receipt to my friend, he, after having tried it, wrote me
the following note:

"MY DEAR SIR,--I have made an experiment of your new receipt for coffee,
which you have kindly forwarded to me, and beg to acquaint you that I
never recollect having lasted better. Yours, &c.

W. C."

I do strongly advise my readers to give it a trial, and recommend all
providers of refreshment at railway stations not to make the coffee
boiling hot, but to keep the cafetière in a bain-marie, which would
avoid all the above inconvenience, both as regards quality and heat.

[2] Some few years since, having a great deal of writing to do within a
certain time, and which could not be done without employing the night as
well as the day, I partook of weak green tea, with a little brandy,
sugar, and lemon-juice in it, as a beverage, and, with light food, I was
enabled to do with but eighteen hours' sleep from 8 o'clock on Monday
morning to 5 o'clock on the following Sunday morning.

[3] Half veal and beef can be used; or if no veal, all beef.

[4] See future Letters.

[5] Foie gras de Strasbourg.

[6] This word is not found in dictionaries, but is used by poulterers to
denote that small piece of the lungs which is left in the bird.

[7] The quantity of the meat and vegetable should pretty equally balance
with each other; after such a meal, a man's appetite is perfectly
satisfied, and he is ready for an afternoon's work if required. It also
does not require the aid of any fire, which we so ungratefully abhor in
hot weather. Mr. B. very much approves of it once a week in summer.

[8] To freeze quickly any description of ice the freezing-pot must be
well set, place it in the centre of the pail, which must be large enough
to give a space of four inches all round, break up small twelve pounds
of ice, which put round at the bottom six inches in depth, over which
put two pounds of salt, beat down tight with a rolling-pin, then more
ice, then salt, proceeding thus until within three inches of the top of
your freezing-pot; saltpetre mixed with the salt will facilitate it in
freezing.

[9] With regard to the wine, that is a matter I leave entirely to Mr.
B., but his maxim is, that "the best is the cheapest."

[10] These should be served on dishes with a napkin.

       *       *       *       *       *


Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:

sautèing that the butter=> sautéing that the butter {pg 18}

littlle sat=> little salt {pg 39}

spoonfuls of dem-iglaze=> spoonfuls of demi-glaze {pg 68}

skimmer gently for two hours=> simmer gently for two hours {pg 127}

in every dry summers=> in very dry summers {pg 101}

ro plain melted butter=> or plain melted butter {Pg 104}

appiles to this => applies to this {pg 131}

or mushoom or English=> or mushroom or English {pg 148}

ten minntes=> ten minutes {Pg 150}

be broiled or sauted=> be broiled or sautéd {Pg 138}

plack pepper=> black pepper {Pg 206}

rice seperately=> rice separately {Pg 215}

is for preferable=> is far preferable {Pg 215}

delightful and varigated=> delightful and variegated {Pg 254}

in which put your rise=> in which put your rice {Pg 267}

Ribstone pippins=> Ripstone pippins {Pg 273}

fire uutil becoming=> fire until becoming {Pg 293}

shake sugar ever=> shake sugar over {Pg 324}

Mr. P. is obliged to leave home every week day=> Mr. B. is obliged to
leave home every week day {Pg 336}