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[Illustration: _UNDER SLEEVES._

_BABY'S HOOD._

_CROCHET COLLAR._]




  THE

  NEW GUIDE

  TO

  KNITTING & CROCHET.

  BY

  MARIE JANE COOPER.

  PUBLISHED By J. S. COOPER,

  FOREIGN AND BRITISH DEPÔT OF BERLIN PATTERNS,
  AND MATERIALS FOR LADIES' FANCY WORKS,

  ROYAL MARINE LIBRARY,

  MARINE PARADE, HASTINGS:

  AND

  PARRY, BLENKARN & CO., LONDON.




  THE NEW GUIDE
  TO
  KNITTING AND CROCHET,

  DEDICATED BY PERMISSION,
  TO THE
  COUNTESS OF WICKLOW,

     Whose kindness to the Authoress, will ever be remembered with
     grateful feelings of respect,

     By her most obedient servant,

     MARIE JANE COOPER






PREFACE.


I venture to publish THE NEW GUIDE TO KNITTING AND CROCHET, believing it
will prove both instructive and amusing to those Ladies, whose taste
leads them to such pursuits. The Authoress being practically acquainted
with these Arts, she warrants them correct, and trusts they will meet
with a favourable reception by the Public, and be found a useful
appendage to every work-table.

  HASTINGS, January 1847.




INDEX.


                                                       Page
  _Siberian Cuffs_                                        1
  _Leaf Pattern for a Pincushion_                         2
  _Twisted Knitting_                                      3
  _Vandyke Border_                                       ib
  _Open-knitted Lace Cuffs_                               4
  _Prudence Cap_                                          5
  _Cardinal Cape_                                        ib
  _Shell-Pattern Purse_                                   6
  _A very beautiful Cap Crown_                           ib
  _Head Piece for Cap_                                    8
  _Insertion for Cuffs_                                   9
  _Feather Pattern_                                      10
  _Edgings_                                              ib
  _Another Edge_                                         11
  _Leaf Stitch_                                          ib
  _Knitted Muff_                                         12
  _Long Sleeves for under a Dress_                       ib
  _Opera Cap_                                            13
  _Shetland Shawl_                                       14
  _Star-Pattern Shawl_                                   15
  _Shetland Knitted Scarf_                               16
  _Leaf Pattern for an Anti-Macassar_                    17
  _Knitted Fringe_                                       18
  _Knitted Bag, with black, garnet, or steel Beads_      ib
  _Directions for a full-sized Quilt_                    19
  _Chair Back Pattern_                                   ib
  _A broad open Lace_                                    20
  _Hour-Glass Pattern Cuffs_                             21
  _A very handsome Mat_                                  ib
  _Ribbed Mitts_                                         24
  _Watch Chains_                                         ib
  _Directions for a Purse_                               ib
  _A Bag to hold Wools_                                  25
  _Baby's Shoes_                                         ib
  _Toilet Cushion_                                       26
  _A Stocking_                                           ib
  _Knitted Fringe_                                       28
  _Carriage Boots_                                       ib
  _Baby's Hood_                                          29
  _For the Hood_                                         ib
  _Knitted Bustle_                                       30
  _Anti-Macassar_                                        ib
  _Harlequin Quilt, with Tufts_                          31
  _Ruff for the Neck_                                    32
  _Polka Coat, for a Child_                              33
  _A very pretty Fringe_                                 35
  _Under Sleeves_                                        36
  _Baby's Knitted Body_                                  39
  _Band for Baby's Body_                                 40
  _Edging for ditto_                                     43
  _Gentleman's Woollen Gloves_                           44
  _To form a Pattern for the Back_                       ib


CROCHET

  _Directions for the different stitches in close and
    open Crochet_                                        46
  _Raised Crochet_                                       47
  _Chain Open Crochet_                                   ib
  _Single Open Crochet_                                  ib
  _Double Open Crochet_                                  48
  _Treble Open Crochet_                                  ib
  _Vandyke Open Crochet_                                 ib
  _A pretty Neck Tie_                                    49
  _A new Sofa Pillow_                                    ib
  _A Carpet Bag_                                         ib
  _A Neck Rest, or Cushion_                              50
  _A Brioche, or Turkish Cushion_                        51
  _A very elegant Bag_                                   52
  _Original Pattern for a Crochet Collar_                53
  _Plain Purse_                                          55
  _Mouchoir Case_                                        ib
  _Warm Muffatees_                                       ib
  _Raised Crochet Slippers_                              56
  _Anti-Macassar_                                        ib
  _Shawl_                                                57
  _Watch Chains_                                         58
  _Ladies' Cuffs_                                        ib




THE NEW GUIDE

TO

KNITTING AND CROCHET


SIBERIAN CUFFS.

Nine shades of wool used double, or double Berlin, either in shades of
sable or chinchilli, look best. Cast on sixty stitches, knit three plain
rows with the darkest shade; in the fourth row seam two stitches
together; pass the wool round, seam two together; pass the wool round,
seam two together, and so on till the end of the row. Join on the next
shade, and knit three plain rows. In the fourth row, seam two together;
pass the wool round, and seam two together the same as before; continue
in this manner knitting three plain rows and an open row of each shade,
until the ninth of white. Only knit two plain rows; this will reverse
the shades: join the second lightest shade, and knit one plain row and
one open row; two plain rows; continue knitting one plain row, one open
row, and two plain rows of each shade; it will then correspond in
appearance with the other side; then sew the two edges together, and let
the join come in the centre of the wrong side, and it will look as
though knit double.


LEAF PATTERN FOR A PINCUSHION.

Cast on each needle forty-five stitches, fifteen for each pattern.
_First round_--pass the thread in front, purl two, knit one, taking the
back part of the loop; purl two, slip one, knit one, and bring the
slipped stitch over the last knit, knit six, bring the thread forward;
knit one; continue this till the round is completed. _Second
round_--thread before, purl two, knit one, taking the back part of the
loop; purl two, slip one, and cast the slipped over; knit the remaining
stitches plain; in the first row you have increased one stitch in every
fifteen; the second brings them to the original number; knit these
rounds alternately, making the holes (which occur in every alternate
row) one stitch sooner each time, _i. e._, knitting five, then four,
then three, then two, then one, instead of six stitches, and plain to
the purled stitches, then commence as before.


TWISTED KNITTING.

Begin with about twenty stitches on one needle, and with the other knit
two or three plain rows; next row knit six plain, purl eight, knit the
remainder plain; knit the next row plain, and so on for twelve rows;
next row, when the right side is towards you, after knitting the first
six stitches plain, take a third needle, and slip off four stitches, and
keep them behind till you have knit the next four; then knit them; this
forms the twist; then knit the remaining six plain; knit the next row
plain, and so on for twelve rows; then repeat the twist.


VANDYKE BORDER.

Cast on nine stitches, slip one, knit one, bring the thread forward, and
knit two together for three times, thread forward, knit one, purl the
next row; repeat these two rows alternately, increasing one plain stitch
each time in the fancy row, until you have eighteen stitches; to
decrease the point, slip the first, knit two together, bring the thread
forward, and knit two together for four times, until it is reduced to
nine stitches; every alternate row is purled.


OPEN KNITTED LACE CUFFS.

Needles No. 20, and No. 34, Boar's-head cotton. Cast on thirty-four
stitches, knit four plain rows. _Fifth row_--knit two, slip one, knit
one, pass the slipt one over the knitted one, bring the thread forward,
knit one, thread forward, knit one, thread forward, purl one, and so on
to the end of the row. Commence the next row by slipping one, and
continue as before, till you come to the end of the row, where you will
have two plain stitches left, which are to be knit; continue with these
rows alternately, until the cuff is long enough for the wrist, then
cast off the stitches, and edge it with narrow Valenciennes lace, or
with the Vandyke edging.


PRUDENCE CAP.

Cast on fifty stitches coloured wool, knit eight rows, knitting and
purling alternate rows, and twisting each stitch; five rows of coloured,
and four of white wool, knit loosely on small ivory pins, for the edge.


CARDINAL CAPE.

Cast on seventy-two stitches in the Brioche stitch, which is done by
bringing the wool forward; slip one stitch off underneath, and knit two
together, coloured wool, and knit one row, besides the casting-on row,
white wool, knit four times from end to end; and then leave six stitches
each time, till you have formed one gore; twice and back with coloured
wool; and then another white gore; fourteen white gores, and finish
with one coloured row; and then cast off. Border for the lower end, with
an open scollop: run one string round the row of holes, and another
string in a few stitches lower to form the waist; the Brioches are done
in the same manner; but twelve gores, and each different colours; you
cast on sixty stitches instead of seventy-two: six oz. white, and two
coloured four-thread fleecy, or double Berlin wool, is enough for cape
and border.


SHELL PATTERN PURSE.

Cast on ninety-six stitches, pins No. 19; thread a row of beads; knit
three plain rows; purl the close scollop; and every purl stitch knit a
bead, twelve rows of beads deep at each end; and ten rows of beads deep
in the middle; three plain rounds; cast off.


A VERY BEAUTIFUL CAP CROWN.

No. 22 pins, and 60, Boar's-head cotton. Cast on three stitches on
each of three needles. _First row_--plain. _Second row_--make one,
knit one, to the end of the row. _Third_--plain. _Fourth_--make one,
knit two, to the end. _Fifth_--plain. _Sixth_--make one, knit three.
_Seventh_--plain. _Eighth_--make one, knit four. _Ninth_--plain.
_Tenth_--make one, knit five. _Eleventh_--plain. _Twelfth_--make one,
knit six. _Thirteenth_--plain. _Fourteenth_--make one, knit one, make
one, slip one, knit one, turn over; knit four. _Fifteenth_--plain.
_Sixteenth_--make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one,
turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; knit three.
_Seventeenth_--plain. _Eighteenth_--make one, knit one, make one, slip
one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make
one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn
over; knit two. _Nineteenth_--plain. _Twentieth_--make one, knit one,
make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit
one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one,
slip one, knit one, turn over; knit one. _Twenty-first_--plain.
_Twenty-second_--make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn
over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit
one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip
one, knit one, turn over. _Twenty-third_--plain.


BORDER.

_Twenty-fourth row_--purl; catch up a stitch at each point of the star.
_Twenty-fifth_--purl. _Twenty-sixth_--knit two stitches together, all
round. _Twenty-seventh_--throw the thread over the needle, before every
stitch. _Twenty-eighth_--plain. _Twenty-ninth_--purl; now begin at _row
twenty-five_, and knit the border over again twice.


HEAD-PIECE OF THE CAP.

A round of eyelet holes; four plain rounds, bring the cotton forward,
take two together, for five rounds; four plain rounds, bring cotton
forward, and knit two together, for five rounds; four plain rounds; a
round of eyelet holes; four plain rounds; bring the cotton forward, knit
two together, knit five; bring cotton forward, knit one; bring cotton
forward, knit two together, knit three; knit two together, bring cotton
forward, knit two together, knit three-knit two together, knit five;
bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit one, knit two together,
bring cotton forward, knit one stitch.


INSERTION FOR CUFFS.

A row of eyelet holes, done by bringing the cotton forward, and knitting
two together; afterwards five plain rows; knit six, pass the seam stitch
over, bring the cotton forward, and knit two together, four plain; knit
four; pass the seam stitch over, bring cotton forward, and knit two
together, knit one; bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit one;
knit three; pass the seamed stitch over, bring cotton forward, knit two
together, knit three; bring cotton forward, knit two together, take one
off; knit two together, and draw over.


FEATHER PATTERN.

Nineteen stitches for each pattern on three pins; bring the thread
forward, and knit one, three times; take two together, three times; knit
one (centre stitch), decrease three times more, increase three times;
knit three plain rounds.


EDGINGS.

Cast on twelve stitches. _First row_--knit three, make one, take two
together, knit one, make one, take two together, three times over.
_Second_--knit two, and purl one, three times; knit three, make one,
take two, knit one. _Third_--knit three, knit three, make one, take two
together, knit ten. _Fourth_--cast off three, knit eight, make one, take
two, knit one.


ANOTHER EDGE.

Cast on eight stitches. _First row_--knit three, make one, take two
together, knit one, make two, knit two. _Second row_--knit three, purl
one, knit three, make one, take two together, knit one. _Third
row_--knit three, make one, take two, knit five. _Fourth row_--cast off
two, knit four, make one, take two, knit one; commence again.


LEAF STITCH.

This is for one pattern only. Cast on eight stitches. _First row_--make
a stitch, knit one, make one, knit two, take two together, knit two.
_Second row_--plain. _Third row_--make one, knit three, make one, knit
one; diminish, knit one. _Fourth row_--plain. _Fifth row_--make one,
knit five, make one, diminish. _Sixth row_--plain; diminish by taking
two stitches off together, knitting one, and drawing two over the
knitted one.


KNITTED MUFF.

Cast on forty-five stitches, every row alike; slip a stitch at the
beginning, knit one, purl one, repeat to the end a piece about twenty
inches in length, enough for a moderate sized muff, lined with
Gros-de-Naples, stuffed with wool, and enough horse hair to keep it in
shape: shades of wool to imitate sable, are the best colours.


LONG SLEEVES TO WEAR UNDER A DRESS.

No. 14 pins, and six-thread embroidery fleecy. Cast on forty-two
stitches loosely, and knit and purl three stitches alternately, for
twelve turns; knit ten turns plain; knit thirty-five turns plain,
increasing one stitch on each turn; knit twenty turns plain, increasing
one stitch every other turn; repeat the twelve turns, as at the
beginning.


OPERA CAP.

Cast on seventy-four stitches white wool, purl one row, knit one row
white, purl one row coloured, bring the wool forward, and knit two as
one; purl one row, knit one row white, purl one row, knit one row white;
this forms the border. _First division_--coloured; purl one row, knit
one row, decreasing one stitch at each end; knit one row, knit a fancy
row, by taking two stitches together, keeping the wool before the pin.
_Second division_--white; purl one row, decreasing one stitch at each
end, knit one row, decreasing two stitches at each end; knit one row,
decreasing one stitch at each end; knit one fancy row as before. _Third
division_--coloured; purl one row, decreasing one stitch at each end;
knit one row without decreasing; knit a fancy row, as before. _Fourth
division_, _fifth_, _sixth_, _seventh_--the same as the third, to
be repeated alternately with white and coloured wool. _Eighth
division_--white. _Ninth_--coloured: in these two last divisions, only
two stitches are to be decreased in each, and this is to be done in the
row, after the one at each end.

N.B. There should be forty stitches left on the pin in the last row; if
the pins are small, begin with eighty stitches, and then there should be
forty-six left, instead of forty; pick up thirty stitches on each side,
and make the borders at the sides and back, like the first: make up the
cap, by turning in the border to the fancy row, and hem it all round: it
is to be tied behind, and under the chin, with ribbon, or plaitted wool,
with tassels of the same.


SHETLAND SHAWL PATTERN.

Shetland wool, and No. 4 pins; about one hundred and sixty stitches;
cast on any number of stitches that will divide by six. _First
row_--bring the wool forward, knit one, wool in front, knit one, slip
one, knit two as one; bring the slipt stitch over, then knit one.
_Second row_--purl knitting. _Third row_--wool forward, knit three; wool
forward, slip one, knit two as one, and cast over. _Fourth row_--purl
knitting. _Fifth row_--knit one, slip one, knit two as one, and bring
the slipt stitch over, and then knit one, make one, knit one, wool
forward. _Sixth row_--purl knitting. _Seventh row_--slip one, knit two
as one, and cast over, make one, knit three, make one. _Eighth
row_--purl knitting; there are to be two plain stitches at the beginning
and end of each row, to form an edge; take up the stitches on each ride,
and knit the border in the feather pattern, increasing one stitch at
each end of the rows, to form the corner.


STAR-PATTERN SHAWL,
IN TWO COLOURS.

Cast on four stitches in blue wool. _First row_--wool before the pin,
knit one, wool before, slip one, knit two not together; pass the slipt
stitch over them; repeat this to the end. _Second row_--purl knitting in
claret. _Third row_--game as the first, in blue. _Fourth row_--same as
the second, in claret; repeat these rows until there are one hundred and
eighty stitches on the pin: cast off and finish with a fringe; as the
increasing adds an irregular stitch, some rows will have one, and others
two knitted stitches at the commencement.


SHETLAND KNITTED SCARF.

Commence with the pattern of the border by casting on one hundred
stitches for the width of the scarf; No. 4 pins and Shetland wool are
required. _First row_--knit two together four times, bring the wool
forward, and knit one eight times, knit two as one four times, purl one,
repeat to the end of the row. _Second row_--purled. _Third row_--plain.
_Fourth row_--purled; repeat from the first row, until the pattern is
about fourteen inches deep. Commence the centre as follows (this is done
in white wool--the borders in shades). _First row_--plain knitting
before beginning the pattern. _First row_ of the pattern, wool before,
slip one, knit one, pass the slip stitch over, knit one, purl one;
repeat to the end of the row. _Second and following rows_--repeat, every
row being alike; both ends of the scarf are to be made the same, by
reversing the knitting of the border; they may be finished with a red
knitted or netted fringe of the same wool doubled twice.


LEAF PATTERN,
FOR AN ANTI-MACASSAR.

Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by eight. _First
row_--make a stitch, knit one, make one, knit two, slip two as one,
knit one, and draw the slipt ones over it; purl back. _Third row_--make
one, knit three, make one, knit one; diminish; knit one, purl back.
_Fifth row_--make one, knit five; diminish; purl back. _Seventh
row_--diminish, knit two, make one, knit one, make one, purl back.
_Ninth row_--knit one, diminish, knit one, make one, knit three, make
one, purl back. _Eleventh row_--make one, knit five, make one, purl
back.


KNITTED FRINGE.

Cast on seven stitches, slip the first, bring the cotton forward, and
knit two together twice, then put the needle into the last stitch,
without drawing it out, until you have wound the cotton round two
fingers three times, the whole of which must be taken together as one
stitch; knit the last stitches back row plain knitting.


KNITTED BAG,
WITH BLACK, GARNET, OR STEEL BEADS.

Thread half a bunch of beads on a skein of coarse netting silk, and cast
on eighty-eight stitches. _First and second row_ plain knitting without
beads. _Third row_--slip one, knit one with a bead, knit one to the end
of the row; repeat from first row eighty-four times; observe, at the
commencement of every row, to make a slipt stitch; join up the two
sides, leaving an opening at the top, and finished with two bars and a
gold or steel chain, a fringe of the garnet beads, with gold points; it
should have a stiff lining. No. 16 pins, eight skeins of silk, and four
bunches of beads, including those required for the fringe, will be
wanted.


DIRECTIONS FOR A FULL-SIZED QUILT.

No. 18 COTTON, No. 20 PINS.

Eight stripes with one hundred and thirteen stitches for each, with a
border of fifty stitches; a counterpane without a border will require
more stripes.


CHAIR BACK PATTERN.

Cast on one hundred and eighty stitches, pins No. 12; knit the length on
the pins; pattern stitch is cast over twice, and take two as one; knit
one; do this for five rows, knitting back plain each time; then reverse
the pattern; then cast over twice; knit one and take two five times.


A BROAD OPEN LACE.

Cast on fifteen stitches, slip one, knit one, turn over four times; knit
two as one; turn over; knit two as one; repeat; turn over; knit two as
one four times more; knit one. _Second row_--slip one, knit twelve, purl
one, knit one, purl one, knit two. _Third row_--plain knitting. _Fourth
row_--plain. _Fifth row_--slip one, knit one, turn over five times, knit
two as one, turn over, knit two as one, repeat, turn over, knit two as
one five times more, knit one. _Sixth row_--slip one, knit fifteen, purl
one, knit one, purl one, knit three. _Seventh row_--plain. _Eighth
row_--plain. _Ninth row_--cast off seven, and begin at the first row to
knit one, turn over four times, and commence again.


HOUR GLASS PATTERN CUFFS.

To be sewn down at one end; cast on sixty loops, knit twenty-two rows of
white, then two rows of each colour, three shades are required, and
white, four rows of white, two rows of each colour, three shades; four
rows of white, two rows of each colour, three shades, four of white, six
of white, ribbed two, and knit two, two coloured of each shade ribbed;
the same ten of white ribbed ditto, two of coloured, six of white, and
cast off.


A VERY HANDSOME MAT.

This mat is made to imitate fur, with ermine in the centre. To make this
mat a yard long and three quarters wide, you require one pound of
fleecy; that is, a quarter of a pound of each of four shades for the
border, half a pound of white for the middle, and one pound of common
for the back; also two skeins of black for the tails; it must all be in
six-thread fleecy, except the common for the back, which requires
twelve-thread. No. 6 pin, by the eagle gauge, is required. Cast on
seventy-two stitches with the common white, knit one plain row, then
take a skein of the darkest or lightest, according to fancy, cut the
skein into half, and divide each half into four, so that the pieces may
be about half a quarter in length; slip the first stitch; then take two
of the pieces of wool, put them on the left hand pin, twisting it so
that one may be behind and the other in front; knit the next stitch, and
the two pieces of wool altogether; bring the ends in front and knit
another stitch, one plain row between each, and three rows of each four
shades; cut previous to commencing the second shade put in two pieces of
the darkest at each end; this for three rows: the third shade, two
pieces of each of the previous shades, and so on, until you have
completed the border, by knitting in the four shades; then put in two
pieces of each colour, and commence the white; you will have
forty-eight stitches for the white; knit twelve rows, that is to say,
six rows putting the pieces in, and every other one being plain, makes
the twelve rows; then knit in six pieces, take two of the black, and
then twelve more white, one piece of black and twelve more white, one
more of black; if the mat is larger or smaller, the centre stitches have
only to be equally divided by spots of black: the next row you must put
in two black over the one in the previous row, and in the third row one
of black over each two; then six more rows of white, that is twelve with
the plain one, and then knit in twelve pieces before you commence the
black; repeat this as above-mentioned; you will find that this time you
will have only space for two black spots; continue in this way till it
is finished: it is then combed out until it resembles fur; you then
twist the four pieces of black together to resemble the tail; a little
gum is then used in twisting this. After having been well combed, they
are made up on a stiff back. They may also be made with an ermine
outside, and a coloured centre, but they are not so pretty.


RIBBED MITTS.

Cast on fifty-six stitches round the wrist; increase till you have
seventy-four by the thumb; take off twenty-three stitches for the thumb;
these ought to be twenty-one rows in depth, sixteen from the bottom, and
five above the thumb.


WATCH CHAINS.

Cast on three stitches, slip a stitch, take one off, knit one, and slip
the previous one over.


FOR A PURSE.

Cast on with No. 18 pins, and a middling-sized silk, of which you
require four skeins; make a stitch, take one off, knit one, and slip the
previous one over this.


A BAG TO HOLD WOOLS.

Cast on one hundred and forty five stitches with cruels, of which you
require six skeins for one bag; two yards of ribbon, and two and a half
of another colour, to bind the ring; six different shades, and fourteen
rows of each colour in the plain stitch of knitting; the centre double
the number of rows.


BABY'S SHOES.

Cast on thirty-six stitches, scarlet German wool; two rows of red;
sixteen rows of white; narrow, by taking two together, on the
seventeenth and twenty-first rows; knit thirteen more rows, then divide
the stitches into three, viz.:--ten, twelve, and ten: knit twenty rows
on the middle needle, which has the twelve stitches, and bind, or cast
them off; take up the front, as you would a stocking heel, and make
twelve stitches beyond; knit two rows narrowing at the toe, every other
row; this is to be repeated six times, and then at the heel, still
narrowing the same in front, till you have only sixteen stitches which
bind off, take up the red stitches in front, catching one white one each
time, till the other side is like the first; you may introduce open
stitches on the instep, and round the leg.


TOILET CUSHION.

Cast on thirty-six loops on the two first pins, and forty-eight on the
other; knit two plain rounds one purl, three plain, six plain, with the
thread brought forward, two plain, one purl, one plain, fifteen plain,
one plain, one purl, one purl narrowing one, eleven plain, slip one,
knit one, pass it over, one plain, one purl, one plain, narrow once,
seven plain, slip one, knit one, pass it over.


A STOCKING.

Cast on one hundred and three stitches for the first six rounds; knit
two, and purl two, then one row, every stitch turned; twenty-four purl,
taking in one on each side the seam, eight purl, take in again, eight
purl, and take in; then twelve purl, and increase; which must be done by
making a stitch on each side the seam; three purl, and increase again,
three purl, and increase again, fourteen purl, take in, three purl, take
in; do this until you have taken in sixteen times; twenty purl; set the
heel by dividing the stitches, when there will be, if correct,
thirty-five for the heel, and thirty-six for the instep; knit nineteen,
purl the twentieth, purl under two stitches beyond the seam, on the
wrong side, and take two together; this do on each side, till you have
taken up all, to each end, when there will remain seven stitches on your
pin, take up the stitches, and in the third row, make a stitch; in every
third stitch in the next round, take two stitches together, where the
instep and heel join, do this every other round, till you have reduced
the heel stitches to the same number you have on your instep pin;
forty-four rounds plain, take in on each side the heel and instep,
leaving two stitches between; knit two rounds, take in the same again,
this do six times, then take in every other round five times, two rounds
every time, when you will have twenty-three or twenty-four stitches
remaining, which cast off.


KNITTED FRINGE.

Cast on eight stitches; slip the first, make one, knit two together, put
in a piece of cotton or wool on the left hand needle, knit one stitch,
bring the ends in front, and knit another, put them back, and knit the
remainder, the next row plain, except the stitch you put the piece in,
take three all together.


CARRIAGE BOOTS.

Cast on fifty-six stitches, with black wool; knit ten rows coloured, ten
black, ten coloured, ten black; increase sixteen ribs on each side;
after the increasing is finished, knit three rows ribbed, with coloured
wool; thirty-seven rows of black; these ought to be done in three-thread
fleecy, and fine pins.


BABY'S HOOD.

PIECE ROUND THE NECK.

Cast on one hundred and forty stitches; knit six rows plain, knitting
four on each pin plain, and purl, twelve rows of double knitting,
twenty-four rows narrowing at the end, in double knitting, eight rows
plain knitting, and cast off.


FOR THE HOOD.

Cast on one hundred and five stitches, ribbing five, and knitting five;
knit six rows, and begin double, knitting four at each end plain, of
which knit thirty-two rows, and then narrow off at each end six times,
knit six rows plain, and cast off; double this in the middle, gather up
about three nails, and stitch a string in front beyond the ribbed purl.


KNITTED BUSTLE.

For this you require six ounces of eight-thread fleecy, and two pair of
pins, No. 1 and No. 10, by the Eagle gauge. Cast on sixty stitches on
the fine pins, and knit six rows, knitting two, and purling two
stitches; then take the larger sized one, and knit thirty rows, putting
the wool twice round the pin; then another piece but only twenty-six
rows, and the third only eighteen rows. Commence always in this manner,
with the fine pins, join them altogether at the part which is ribbed,
and put it on a string.


ANTI-MACASSAR.

Cast on one hundred stitches on No. 10 pins, with No. 4 cotton, and knit
one plain row (pattern). _First row_--purled. _Second row_--cotton
forward, and take two together. _Third row_--purled. _Fourth
row_--plain, with No. 2 pins, cotton twice over the pins; repeat these
four rows until the square is complete; sew every six threads of the
large row tightly together in the centre, with scarlet German wool,
fastening off each six securely and separately; then knit any fringe you
may fancy, and join it on.


HARLEQUIN QUILTS,
WITH TUFTS.

Plain double knitting, with six-thread fleecy, in pieces of six inches
square, each of the pieces being about twenty-four stitches each way;
when finished, they are to be sewn together with a tuft of black wool at
the corner of each square. The tufts may be made in the following
manner:--take a groved wooden mesh, an inch in width, wind round it
four-thread black fleecy about twelve times; slip a coarse thread in the
grove, and tie the wool quite tight, leaving an end to it that may be
drawn through and attached to the quilt; cut the loops of wool through
on the opposite side of the mesh, then comb and shear it neatly, for a
quilt two yards and a half square, two hundred and twenty-five pieces
will be required: it will take two hundred and fifty-six tufts.


RUFF FOR THE NECK.

For this you require five-thread super fleecy, and two sized pins, No. 3
and No. 11; cast on fifty stitches on No. 3, and knit seventeen plain
rows. _Eighteenth row_--double the piece of knitting, and knit the
casting on row in with this one. _Nineteenth, twentieth, and
twenty-first rows_--are plain, with No. 11 pins. _Twenty-second
row_--knit one, bring the wool forward, and take two together to the
end. _Twenty-third, twenty-fourth, and twenty-fifth rows_--plain now;
No. 3 pins, and knit eighteen rows to match the first fold; sew this
side down to match the other; run a ribbon through the holes for
strings.


A POLKA COAT,
FOR A CHILD.

Cast on twenty-five stitches, which will make seventy-five ribs, in the
Brioche stitch, which is done by bringing the wool forward, slipping a
stitch the purl way, and knit two together; bring the wool forward, knit
twenty-four rows, or twelve turns of white; then commence the scarlet,
by leaving eighteen stitches on each side, knit twenty-four rows, or
twelve turns of scarlet; then begin to take in, which is done by
knitting the first thirty on each side, without decreasing; then bring
the wool forward, slip one stitch, and knit five together; repeat this
till within thirty on the other side, which, knit without decreasing,
until you have only forty ribs, or one hundred and twenty stitches; knit
forty-eight rows, or twenty-four turns, in this manner, still leaving
the white on each side; put thirty stitches on another needle for the
front, knit those backwards and forwards for thirty-six rows, or
eighteen turns; then knit all the stitches but one rib, turn back, and
finish the row, and so on, leaving one rib more each time, till it is
the proper length for the shoulder. Cast off, but be particular that the
slanting side is not in front; finish the other side in the same way,
then take up the stitches for the back; knit thirty-six rows, to
correspond with the fronts for the arm-hole; then knit backwards and
forwards, leaving one rib each way, until it is the same length as the
slanting part in front, which are to be joined together; cast off; now
take up the white stitches on each side, and knit till it is long enough
to go up the sides; for the sleeves; cast on seventy-two stitches, knit
thirty rows, then twelve more, leaving one rib on the one side to form
the wide part; for the collar; cast on seventy-six stitches, and knit
twelve rows, leaving one rib on each side; then sixteen rows of white;
cast off; cast on eighteen stitches for the cuff, and knit till it is
long enough to go round the bottom of the sleeve; twist a cord of the
same coloured wool, and put in the waist behind, with a tassel at the
ends; the same under the collar. These may be done in four-thread
fleecy, but they look much better in double Berlin wool, No. 9 pins, by
the Eagle gauge. For a lady's, you must cast on stitches in proportion,
and larger pins.


A VERY PRETTY FRINGE.

Cast on nine stitches; knit one row; second row, begin by knitting two
plain stitches; pass the cotton twice round the pin, and take off two
stitches; then put on the loop. Having cut the cotton into lengths you
may require for the fringe, and knit one stitch, pass the loop forward,
and knit another; then pass it back, and knit two stitches; bring it
forward again, and knit one more; in the next row, knit four stitches,
and take off the loop and one of the stitches, leaving five to knit off
plain.


UNDER SLEEVES.

No. 30, Boar's-head cotton, No. 24 needles, by the Eagle knitting gauge.
Set on seventy-eight stitches, twenty-six on each needle, six stitches
in each pattern. _First round_--bring the thread forward, knit three
plain; bring the thread forward, slip one off without knitting, knit the
two next together, then lift the slipped one over the taken-in loop.
_Second round_--plain, then knit one stitch of the next row. _Third
round_--bring the thread forward, slip one off without knitting, knit
the two next together, then lift the slipped one over the taken-in loop,
knit three. _Fourth round_--plain, then knit one stitch of the next row.
_Fifth round_--bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread
forward, take two together, knit one, take two together. _Sixth
round_--plain, then knit one stitch of the next row. _Seventh
round_--bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward,
take two together; knit one, take two together. _Eighth round_--plain;
then knit one stitch of the next row. _Ninth round_--bring the thread
forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together; knit
one, take two together. _Tenth round_--plain, then knit one stitch of
the next row. _Eleventh round_--bring the thread forward, knit one;
bring the thread forward, take two together; knit one, take two
together. _Twelfth round_--plain; continue this till it is long enough,
then cast it off very loosely.


KNITTED EDGINGS TO TRIM THIS UNDER-SLEEVE.

Needles No. 24, Boar's-head cotton No. 30. _First row_--slip one, knit
two; bring the thread forward, slip one off without knitting, knit the
two next together, then lift the slipped one over the taken-in loop;
bring the thread forward, knit three, bring the thread forward, take two
together; bring the thread forward twice, take two together; bring the
thread forward twice, take two together, knit one. _Second row_--slip
one, knit two; purl one, knit two; purl all but four, knit one; bring
the thread forward, take two together, knit one. _Third row_--slip one,
knit two; bring the thread forward, take two together; bring the thread
forward, take two together; knit one, take two together; bring the
thread forward, knit three; bring the thread forward twice, take two
together; bring the thread forward twice, take two together, knit one.
_Fourth row_--slip one, knit two; purl one, knit two; purl all but four,
knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit one. _Fifth
row_--slip one, knit two; thread forward, take two together, knit one;
bring the thread forward, slip one off without knitting; knit two
together; then lift the slipped one over the taken-in loop; bring the
thread forward, knit six; bring the thread forward twice, take two
together; bring the thread forward twice, take two together, knit one.
_Sixth row_--slip one, knit two; purl one, knit two; purl all but four,
knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit one.
_Seventh row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, take two
together; take two together, bring the thread forward, knit one; bring
the thread forward, take two together, knit seven; bring the thread
forward twice, take two together; bring the thread forward twice, take
two together, knit one. _Eighth row_--cast off eight, purl eleven, knit
one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit one: you must
purl the half stitches. Begin again at the first row.


BABY'S KNITTED BODY.

This body is part of knitting, which is let into cambric. No. 24,
Boar's-head cotton, Needles No. 17, Eagle knitting gauge. The front is
made in the following manner:--set on seven stitches, knit two plain
rows; then begin the pattern row; make one stitch, knit a stitch, bring
the cotton forward, take off one without knitting, knit two, bring the
unknitted one over the other two; knit the second row plain; the third
row the same as the first; these two rows form the pattern. You must
only make a stitch, and knit one, at the commencement of every
pattern-row, this is to increase the front; the pattern is continued
throughout; the row is, bring the cotton forward, take off one without
knitting, knit two, bring the unknitted one over the two. When you have
one or two stitches at the end of the row, they must be knitted plain;
continue these two rows till you have done enough for the front of a
baby's body, then cast off very loosely.

The sleeves are knitted in the same way, only begin with nine stitches;
then knit two plain rows; cast off when proper size.


BAND FOR BABY'S BODY.

Cast on twenty-one stitches; pins and cotton as before. _First
row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two
together, knit three, knit two together; bring the thread forward, and
knit one; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit five;
bring the thread forward; knit two together, knit one. _Second
row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward; knit two together;
knit the remaining stitches plain all but three; bring the thread
forward, and knit two together, knit one. _Third row_--slip one, knit
two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit two, knit two
together; bring the thread forward; knit three; bring the thread
forward, and knit two together, knit four; bring the thread forward, and
knit two together, knit one. _Fourth row_--the same as the second.
_Fifth row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two
together, knit one, knit two together; bring the thread forward, and
knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one;
bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit three; bring the
thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. _Sixth row_--the same
as the second. _Seventh row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread
forward, and knit two together, knit two together; bring the thread
forward; knit seven; bring the thread forward, and knit two together,
knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one.
_Eighth row_--the same as the second. _Ninth row_--slip one, knit two;
bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit two; bring the
thread forward, and knit two together, knit three, knit two together;
bring the thread forward, and knit four; bring the thread forward, and
knit two together, knit one. _Tenth row_--the same as the second.
_Eleventh row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, knit two
together, knit three; bring the thread forward, knit two together, knit
one, knit two together; bring the thread forward, knit five; bring the
thread forward, knit two together, knit one. _Twelfth row_--the same as
the second. _Thirteenth row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread
forward, knit two together, knit four; bring the thread forward, and
knit three together; bring the thread forward, knit six; bring the
thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. _Fourteenth row_--the
same as the second; then recommence as at the first row.


EDGING TO TRIM THE BODY AND SLEEVES.

Cast on seven stitches. _First row_--slip one, knit two; bring the
thread forward, and knit two together; make two stitches, and knit two
together. _Second row_--make one, knit two, purl one, knit two; bring
the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. _Third row_--slip
one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit
four. _Fourth row_--cast off two, knit three; bring the thread forward,
and knit two together, knit one; then commence as at first.


GENTLEMAN'S WOOLEN GLOVES.

PINS No. 14--WOOL Three-thread Fleecy.

Cast on seventy-two stitches, and knit twenty rounds; purling two, and
knitting two; then knit six rounds plain.


TO FORM A PATTERN FOR THE BACK.

_First round_--knit seven, purl one; knit eight, purl one; knit eight,
purl one; knit the rest plain. _Second round_--knit six, purl three;
knit six, purl three; knit six, purl three; rest plain. _Third
round_--knit five, purl five; knit four, purl five; knit four, purl
five; rest plain. _Fourth round_--knit as the second. _Fifth
round_--knit as the first. Knit ten rounds plain, still purling one
stitch on the end of each diamond.

Begin the thumb by making one stitch in each of the two last, at the
same time increasing one plain stitch in the first and third purl
stitches. Continue increasing two stitches on the two thumb stitches,
each other round, till you have twenty-four extra stitches, which place
on another pin, and knit forty rounds without them. Divide the thumb
stitches on three pins, and increase two more on the under part of it;
knit round, decreasing the same part (the under) till you have
twenty-two left, which knit on till long enough, when again decrease
till you have nine stitches only; break off the wool, and with a worsted
needle, draw it through all the stitches, and fasten it inside. Divide
your stitches for each finger, taking two more for each of the two first
fingers, than for the other two; it is better to measure by a glove, for
the length of the fingers and thumb: this pattern is for the left hand,
and wants the pattern for the back, reversing and knitting on the last,
instead of the first pin; two-thread fleecy is required.




Directions for the different Stitches

IN

CLOSE AND OPEN CROCHET WORK.


The greater part of close crochet articles are done in the double-plain
stitch, which is done by taking a piece of wool, and casting on as many
loops in chain-stitch as you may require, with the needle; it is very
simple, being only to form a loop and draw the wool through one and
another; the easiest manner would be, to continue drawing the wool
through from right to left; this will make the work the same on both
sides. The plain single-crochet is done by merely drawing the one loop
you have on your needle through each stitch. Plain double crochet is
when you have cast on the foundation-loops, draw the wool through one
stitch; take it up again, and through two; this stitch is used for
table-covers and sofa-cushions; also when patterns are worked in. In the
double-stitch crochet, you take both sides of the loop, but that is only
used when you require it thick, and is very nice for soles for shoes.

RAISED CROCHET is worked alternately from one side to the other, drawing
the wool quite through, and taking the underneath part of the loop.

The CHAIN OPEN CROCHET is made of chains, as for instance, five or seven
loops drawn one through the other, and joined to the centre stitch of
the preceding row; this is very pretty for purses, with a bead on each
of the centre stitches.

SINGLE OPEN CROCHET is done by putting your needle under the wool, and
then through the loop, draw the wool through, you will find that you
have three stitches on your needle; draw the wool through the first two
stitches, and then through the other two; you will now have one loop:
make one by drawing the wool through that one; put it underneath and
through the next loop but one; repeat as before.

DOUBLE OPEN CROCHET is done by drawing it through in the same manner as
you did for the single, but omitting the one-loop stitch until you have
done two long stitches between each of the long ones.

TREBLE OPEN CROCHET is much the same as the preceding patterns, but
having three long stitches and three loop stitches between; in the next
row, remember to make the long stitches upon the loops, and the loops on
the preceding long stitches; you increase by going twice in the same
loop, and decrease by missing one loop.

There is another stitch called the TREBLE VANDYKE OPEN CROCHET, which is
done by three long stitches, but put through the same loop.


A PRETTY NECK TIE,
OF TREBLE OPEN CROCHET, AND TWO COLOURS IN DOUBLE BERLIN.

Cast on one hundred and forty loops, and do one row of each colour;
three of white and five of coloured will make it wide enough; finish
with a chenille tassel at each end.


A NEW SOFA PILLOW,
IN TREBLE OPEN CROCHET.

Choose nine shades of double Berlin wool. Cast on eighty loops, and
commence with the darkest shade; one row of each colour to the lightest,
and the same to the darkest. You may do them in shaded wool, with white
between: make it about three complete stripes or half-a-yard square; you
can crochet both sides, or have silk at the back.


A CARPET BAG.

This is done in the plain double crochet, also in plain double Berlin
wool. Cast on sixty loops, and choose a pretty crochet pattern for the
border on each side--say a narrow border of green leaves, perhaps ten or
twelve stitches wide, on a scarlet ground, the centre a black ground,
with a diamond arabesque pattern, in bright golds, scarlets, greens, and
blues; to be about half-a-yard wide altogether, with the border on the
other side; you can vary the other part of the bag at pleasure. They are
made up with patent leather sides and bottom, with steel at the top. In
working patterns, be particular to pass the whole between the needle and
the wool you are working with.


NECK REST, OR CUSHION,
FOR THE BACK OF A CHAIR.

These are very comfortable for an invalid, they are generally done in
shaded wool, and six colours, say scarlet, green, lilac, orange, blue
and drab. Cast on ninety loops, and eight rows of each colour; this is
done in the plain double crochet, and when you cast on the loops for
the foundation, join the ends, and work round, they are finished with
velvet ends, and two pieces of cord round each piece of velvet; black
looks better than coloured.


A BRIOCHE, OR TURKISH CUSHION.

Cast on thirty loops with black wool, crochet four rows all round,
increasing one stitch at the end; then take a skein of shaded double
Berlin, and commence one stitch below the point of the black; work round
to the top of the other side, then commence four loops below, and work
till within four of the other side, and so on for eight rows, leaving
three less each time; twelve pieces are required done in this manner;
all different colours are prettier, or at least six, and repeat them
once when you have finished, then crochet them all together and six rows
completely round the bottom; you will find you have a space in the
middle; crochet enough rows to fill this up, decreasing every three
loops; make a round cushion, and cover it with your crochet: put a
Brioche mount in the centre.


A VERY ELEGANT BAG,
IN FRENCH BLUE SILK, AND STEEL BEADS.

Commence by casting on three hundred loops, and crochet six plain rows
in black, then thread your beads on the blue, and crochet a piece, which
is done by making the wrong side of crochet the right; when you are
putting on the beads, you must put your needle through the loop, pass a
bead up close to the stitch, and finish it, and so on, until the piece
is completed; then twelve rows plain, in blue, and six black; the
seventh and eighth are done in the plain open crochet. To pass the cord
through, you ought to choose a pattern from forty to fifty rows deep.

You may also do round bags, commencing with three stitches, and
increasing one in every other, for the first six rounds, and one in
every three, for the next twelve, and so on until the bottom is large
enough; then as many rounds as you require for the size of the bag;
they are pretty in stripes of different colours, with beads or patterns
of another colour, upon every alternate stripe.


ORIGINAL PATTERN OF A CROCHET COLLAR.

Cast on one hundred and forty loops, crochet one plain row, then one row
of plain open crochet in every loop, one row of the open Vandyke treble
crochet; the following of close crochet, if done correctly, will form a
leaf. _First_--work along stitch in every loop. _Second_--work three
long stitches into three loops, make four chain stitches, miss two loops
of the foundation, work a stitch of double plain crochet into the next,
make four chain stitches, miss two of the foundation, and repeat. _Third
row_--work three long stitches over the three in the last row, make five
chain stitches, work a stitch of double crochet over the one in the last
row, make five chain stitches, and repeat. _Fourth round_--the same as
the third. _Fifth row_--work five stitches of double crochet, beginning
on the last chain stitches; before the three long stitches in last row,
make eight chain stitches, and repeat one row quite round of the single
open crochet; in every loop at the corners of the collar, you must
increase two stitches at each end row. To commence the border, or edge
of the collar, which of course is carried round as the preceding
row--_First row_--make a long stitch, make one chain stitch, work
another long stitch in the same loop, make three chain stitches, miss
two of the foundation, and repeat. _Second row_--work a long stitch into
the one chain stitch in last row, make one chain stitch, work another
long stitch into the same place, make two chain stitches, and repeat.
_Third row_--the same as the second. _Fourth row_--work a long stitch
into the one chain stitch of the last row, make six chain stitches, and
repeat: these collars may be worked in many other patterns, some of
which are to be found in a book called Crochet Collars. No. 14, or 16,
Boar's-head cotton, and a small steel needle is required.


A PLAIN PURSE.

Cast on seventy or eighty loops, and crochet six rows in double open
crochet; it is prettier in two colours, say French blue, and Ponceau,
seven stripes are wide enough; they look well with one end square, and a
fringe of beads at the bottom.


A MOUCHOIR CASE,
IN TREBLE VANDYKE CROCHET.

Choose any pretty shades, or shaded double Berlin, with rather a small
sized hook; cast on one hundred loops, and crochet if in shades, one row
of each colour, about thirty rows is required to make it wide enough;
they are joined so as to leave it open down the centre, and lined with
silk or satin; you will find them better with some scent in between the
lining: they are to be fastened with a pretty button, or ribbon.


WARM MUFFATEES.

Cast on for a gentleman, forty loops in double Berlin, and crochet
twenty rounds in shaded wool, then six rows of the chain open crochet;
ladies' may be done in single wool.


RAISED CROCHET SLIPPERS.

These are to be done in two colours, say shaded blue or scarlet, with
black stripes between; cast on twelve loops, crochet four rows in
black, increasing one stitch on each side, and one in the middle,
this will form a point on the top of the foot; then two rows of red
wool, increasing; you ought to have three stripes of black, and two of
coloured; leave all the stitches except twelve at the side, continue six
stripes of black, and seven of coloured: will make them large enough for
a lady; join the stripe to twelve stitches on the other side, sew these
to a cork sole, and bind them round the top with ribbon.


ANTI-MACASSAR,
IN SIX SHADES OF WOOL, OR COARSE COTTON, TO IMITATE OLD LACE.

Cast on one hundred and thirty loops, crochet one plain row, then
commence with four stitches in the single open crochet; make four loops,
miss two of the foundation, four long stitches, four chain stitches, and
so on, in the next row; be particular to make the long stitches come
over the chain, and _vice versa_; one row of the double open crochet
quite round, one of the single another of the double open, and then a
pretty Vandyke edge, if in wool, one row of each shade.


SHAWL.

These made with two coloured grounds in stripes, are very handsome; say
black and white, with a pattern of two colours, four shades of each,
perhaps lilacs and greens on the white ground, and French blue and
scarlet on the black, with a narrow stripe of gold colour, between each
stripe of the ground. Cast on five loops with black, and increase one
stitch at the commencement, one in the middle, and one at the end; then
break off your wool, and commence at the same side, this is at the
neck, and is to be done in the plain double crochet; continue in this
manner until the shawl is large enough, then loop on a fringe; these
must be done in double German wool, with the fringe in fleecy.


WATCH CHAINS.

Cast on five loops, and crochet round until long enough; beads may be
introduced the same as on purses, which have a very pretty effect.


LADIES' CUFFS,
IN SHADED SINGLE WOOL.

Cast on forty-four loops, and crochet one row of single open, and one
row of plain double; six rows in the same manner; then do three rows on
each side, in the chain open crochet, run ribbon in and out; these have
a very pretty effect; they are to be joined and done round.


  MINERVA PRESS:
  PRINTED BY DARLING AND SON,
  LEADENHALL STREET,
  LONDON.




Transcriber's Note


The following typographical errors were corrected.

  Page  Error
  iii   1 changed to 17
  iii   2 changed to 26
    4   alternately, untill changed to alternately, until
    6   one coloured row: changed to one coloured row;
   13   _Third division_--coloured changed to _Third division_--coloured;
   27   inrease again changed to increase again
   30   Eagle guage changed to Eagle gauge
   35   Eagle guage changed to Eagle gauge
   44   eight, purl one: changed to eight, purl one;
   48   stitches between: changed to stitches between;
   48   long stitches: you changed to long stitches; you
   51   piece of velvet: changed to piece of velvet;