Produced by Chuck Greif (from scanned images available at
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OUR ARTIST IN CUBA

[Illustration: CARLETON

DEL

hys Marke]




OUR

ARTIST IN CUBA.

FIFTY DRAWINGS ON WOOD.

LEAVES FROM

THE SKETCH-BOOK OF A TRAVELER,

DURING THE WINTER OF 1864-5,

BY GEO. W. CARLETON.

[Illustration: colophon]

NEW YORK:

_Carleton, Publisher,_ 413 _Broadway._

_London: S. Low, Son & Co._

MDCLXV.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1865, by

GEO. W. CARLETON,

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
Southern District of New York.




CONTENTS.

A PRELIMINARY WORD.

No.

SICK TRANSIT                           1

Two BOOBIES                            2

A COLORED HERCULES                     3

THE CUBAN JEHU                         4

IGLESIA DE SAN FRANCISCO               5

A CUBAN MOTIVE                         6

AN INFLUENZA                           7

FLEE FOR SHELTER                       8

THE RIDE                               9

A COCK-FIGHT                          10

RATHER COOL                           11

A SPANISH RETREAT                     12

TAKE YOUR PICK                        13

SPIDERS, RATS, AND COCKROACHES        14

BELLIGERENTS                          15

MATERFAMILIAS ET FILIUS               16

A CULINARY DEPARTMENT                 17

A BUNDLE OF CLOTHES                   18

A BUTTON-SMASHER                      19

WHITE PANTALOONS                      20

A CARNIVAL ACQUAINTANCE               21

BEAUTY AT THE BALL                    22

A DISAPPOINTMENT                      23

DOLCE FAR NIENTE                      24

LOCOMOTION                            25

THE SPANISH TONGUE                    26

AN UNWELCOME VISITOR                  27

AN AGREEABLE BATH                     28

A CELESTIAL MAID                      29

A STATUE ON A BUST                    30

A TAIL UNFOLDED                       31

PUT MONEY IN THY PURSE                32

SUGAR AND WATER                       33

GREEN FIELDS AND PASTURES NEW         34

A SEGAR WELL-LIGHTED                  35

WHERE SHALL REST BE FOUND             36

ALL ABOARD                            37

THE MATANZAS CAVE                     38

A HARD ROAD TO TRAVEL                 39

A SHADY RETREAT                       40

A SPANISH GROCER                      41

COLORED HELP                          42

VERY MOORISH                          43

CHACUN A SON GOUT                     44

NATURE'S SWEET RESTORER               45

AGRICULTURAL                          46

A COT IN THE VALLEY                   47

A COLORED BEAUTY                      48

CORNER STONES                         49

A SUDDEN DEPARTURE                    50




A PRELIMINARY WORD.

WITH many misgivings, the author of this little _brochure_ has been
persuaded to give the prominence of publication to a mere pocket-book
collection of way-side pen-and-ink sketches, the chance results of idle
moments, sandwiched with such Cuban events as paring oranges and sipping
from their cups of nectar--tearing through the narrow streets of Havana
in ragged volantes--listening in the soft moonlight, and arm-in-arm with
Cuban señoritas, to the Artillery band in the Plaza des Armas--assisting
with domino and false nose at the masquerades in the Tacon
Theatre--lounging with ices or delicious chocolate at the Café
Dominica--dallying with cigar and fragrant coffee, after the regulation
breakfast of codfish, garlic, and onions--snuffing up the perfumed air,
and strolling through the golden orange-groves of Cafetals--joining in
the battle, murder, and sudden death of Marinao
cock-fights--vagabondizing along the shady side of Calle Obispo--and so
forth, through all the _dulce far nientes_ of a stranger's drifting
life, among the lights and shadows of the Antilles' Queen.

The only merit the pictures possess, perhaps, is their faithfulness to
nature. Though chiefly caricatures, they represent such incidents and
scenes as every one, with both eyes open, sees, who visits Cuba; and
being sketched upon the spot, with all the crispy freshness of a first
impression, they possess a sort of photographic value, that, in spite of
their grotesqueness, may prove more lasting than the entertainment which
their humor offers.

NEW YORK, April, 1865.




THE START.--THE STEAMSHIP COLUMBIA.

AT SEA.

[Illustration: First day out.--The wind freshens up a trifle as we get
outside Sandy Hook; but our artist says he is'nt sea-sick, for he never
felt better in his life.]




IN THE GULF OF MEXICO.

[Illustration: A "Booby"--as seen _from_ the ship's deck.]

[Illustration: A Booby--as seen _on_ the ship's deck.]




ARRIVAL AT HAVANA.

[Illustration: A side elevation of the colored gentleman who carried our
luggage from the small boat to the Custom House.]




STREETS OF HAVANA.--CALLE MERCADERES.

[Illustration: The first volante driver that our artist saw in Havana.]




VIEW FROM OUR WINDOW AT THE HOTEL ALMY.

[Illustration: The old Convent and Bell Tower of the Church of San
Francisco,--now used as a Custom House.]




STREETS OF HAVANA.--CALLE TENIENTE RE.

[Illustration: A Cuban Cart and its Motive Power.--Ye patient Donkey.]




AT THE CAFE LOUVRE.

[Illustration: Manners and Customs of a Cuban with a Cold in his Head.]




THE [WICKED] FLEA OF HAVANA.

[Illustration: PART I.--The beast in a torpid condition.]

[Illustration: PART II.--When he "smells the blood of an Englishmun."]




THE NATIONAL VEHICLE OF HAVANA.

[Illustration: Manner and Custom of Harnessing ye Animiles to ye Cuban
Volante.]




A COCK-FIGHT IN CUBA.

[Illustration: I.--Chanticleer as he goes in.]

[Illustration: II.--Chanticleer considerably "played out."]




STREETS OF HAVANA.--CALLE LAMPARILLA.

[Illustration: The cool and airy style in which they dress the rising
colored generation of Havana.]




THE CUBAN TOOTH-PICK.

[Illustration: Two ways of carrying it--behind the ear, and in the
back-hair.]




THE CAPTAIN GENERAL'S QUINTA,

[Illustration: View of the Canal and Cocoa Tree; looking East from the
Grotto.]




THE DOMESTIC INSECTS OF HAVANA.

[Illustration: Agitation of the Better-Half of Our Artist, upon entering
her chamber and making their acquaintance.]




A LITTLE EPISODE IN THE CALLE BARRATILLO.

[Illustration: A slight difference arises between the housekeeper's cat
and the butcher's dog, who has just come out in his summer costume.]




STREETS OF HAVANA.--CALLE COMPOSTELLA,

[Illustration: The Free Negro.--An every-day scene,-when the weather is
fine.]




AN INTERIOR IN HAVANA.

[Illustration: Kitchen, chief-cook and bottle-washer in the
establishment of Mrs. Franke, out on the "Cerro."]




HEADS OF THE PEOPLE.

[Illustration: A portrait of the young lady, whose family (after
considerable urging) consents to take in our washing.]




PRIMITIVE HABITS OF THE NATIVES.

[Illustration: Washing in Havana.--$4.00 a dozen in gold.]




WASHING IN HAVANA..

[Illustration: I.--My pantaloons as they went _in_.]

[Illustration: II.--My pantaloons as they came _out_.]




CARNIVAL IN HAVANA.

[Illustration: A Masquerade at the Tacon Theatre.--Types of Costume,
with a glimpse of the "Cuban Dance" in the background.]




A MASK BALL AT THE TACON.

[Illustration: Our artist mixes in the giddy dance, and falls
desperately in love with this sweet creature---- but]




LATER IN THE EVENING,

[Illustration: When the "sweet creature" unmasks, our Artist suddenly
recovers from his fit of admiration. Alas! beauty is but mask deep.]




STREETS OF HAVANA--CALLE OBRAPIA.

[Illustration: The Cuban Wheelbarrow--In Repose.]




STREETS OF HAVANA--CALLE O'REILLY.

[Illustration: The Cuban Wheelbarrow--In action.]




FIRST HOUR!

[Illustration: SECOND HOUR!!]

[Illustration: THIRD HOUR!!!]

[Illustration: Our Artist forms the praiseworthy determination of
studying the Spanish language, and devotes three hours to the
enterprise.]




BED-ROOMS IN CUBA.

[Illustration: The Scorpion of Havana,--encountered in his native
jungle.]




SEA-BATHS IN HAVANA,

[Illustration: Our Artist having prepared himself for a jolly plunge,
inadvertently observes an insect peculiar to the water, and rather
thinks he won't go in just now.]




HOTELS IN HAVANA.

[Illustration: A cheerful Chinese Chambermaid (?) at the Fonda de
Ingleterra, outside the walls.]




HIGH ART IN HAVANA.

[Illustration: A gay (but slightly mutilated) old plaster-of-Paris girl,
that I found in one of the avenues of the Bishop's Garden, on the
"Cerro."]




LOCOMOTION IN THE COUNTRY.

[Illustration: A Cuban Planter going into town with his plunder.]




SHOPPING IN HAVANA.

[Illustration: Our Artist just steps around the corner, to look at a
"sweet thing in fans" that his wife has found.]

[Illustration: RESULT!]




THE NATIONAL BEVERAGE OF HAVANA.

[Illustration: Our Artist indulges in a _panale frio_ (a sort of
lime-ade), at the Café Dominica, and gets so "set up," that he vows he
won't go home till morning.]




THE LIZARDS OF CUBA.

[Illustration: Our Artist, on an entomological expedition in the
Bishop's Garden, is disagreeably surprised to find such sprightly
specimens.]




SMOKING IN HAVANA.

[Illustration: An English acquaintance of Our Artist wants a light for
his paper segar; whereupon the waiter, according to custom, brings a
live coal.]




THE MUSQUITOS OF HAVANA.

[Illustration: A midsummer's night dream.--Our Artist is just the least
bit disturbed in his rest, and gently remonstrates.]




PUBLIC SERVANTS IN CUBA.

[Illustration: A gay and festive Chinese brakeman, on the railroad near
Guines.--The shirt-collar-and-pair-of-spurs style of costume.]




ONE OF THE SENSATIONS IN CUBA.

[Illustration: The Great Cave near Matanzas.--Picturesque House over the
Entrance.]




THE GREAT CAVE NEAR MATANZAS.

[Illustration: A section of the interior--showing the comfortable manner
in which our artist followed the guide, inspected the stalactites, and
comported himself generally.]




THE OUTSKIRTS OF MATANZAS.

[Illustration: One of the Fortifications.--Sketched from the end of the
_Passeo_, on a day hot enough to give anything but a donkey the brain
fever.]




ARCHITECTURE IN MATANZAS.

[Illustration: A romantic little _tienda mista_ (grocery store) on a
corner, in the Calle Ona.]




A CAFFETAL NEAR MATANZAS.

[Illustration: Our Artist becomes dumb with admiration, at the ingenious
manner of toting little niggers.]




THE PICTURESQUE IN MATANZAS.

[Illustration: A singular little bit, out of the Calle Manzana.]




A SUGAR PLANTATION, NEAR THE YUMORI.

[Illustration: Our Artist essays to drink the milk from a green Cocoa;]

[Illustration: Fatal effect.--An uncomfortable sensation!]




A BED-CHAMBER IN MATANZAS.

[Illustration: First night at the "Gran Hotel Leon de Oro."--Our artist
is accommodated with quarters on the ground-floor, convenient to the
court-yard, and is lulled to sleep by a little domestic concert of cats,
dogs, donkeys, parrots and game-cocks.]




ECONOMY IS WEALTH.

[Illustration: Showing the manner in which one ox accomplishes the labor
of two, in San Felipe.]




THE SUBURBS OF CALABAZAR

[Illustration: A Planter's Hut, and three scraggly Palm Trees in the dim
distance.]




PLANTATIONS NEAR MARIANAS,

[Illustration: A Colored Beauty toting Sugar Cane from the field to the
grinding mill.]




ARCHITECTURE IN HAVANA.

[Illustration: A conglomerate _Esquiria_, on the corner of Calle Obispo
and Monserate.]




LAST NIGHT IN HAVANA.

[Illustration: Alarm of Our Artist and Wife, upon going to their room to
pack, and discovering that a Tarantula has taken possession of their
trunk.]








End of Project Gutenberg's Our Artist in Cuba, by George W. Carleton