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THE

PRACTICAL DISTILLER:

OR

AN INTRODUCTION TO MAKING



WHISKEY, GIN, BRANDY, SPIRITS, &c. &c.
OF BETTER QUALITY, AND IN LARGER QUANTITIES,
THAN PRODUCED BY THE PRESENT
MODE OF DISTILLING, FROM THE PRODUCE
OF THE UNITED STATES:

_SUCH AS_
RYE, CORN, BUCK-WHEAT, APPLES,
PEACHES, POTATOES, PUMPIONS
AND TURNIPS.

_WITH DIRECTIONS_
HOW TO CONDUCT AND IMPROVE THE PRACTICAL
PART OF DISTILLING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.

_TOGETHER WITH DIRECTIONS_
FOR PURIFYING, CLEARING AND COLOURING WHISKEY,
MAKING SPIRITS SIMILAR TO FRENCH
BRANDY, &c. FROM THE SPIRITS OF RYE,
CORN, APPLES, POTATOES, &c. &c.

_AND SUNDRY EXTRACTS OF APPROVED RECEIPTS_
FOR MAKING CIDER, DOMESTIC WINES, AND BEER.




BY SAMUEL McHARRY,
OF LANCASTER COUNTY, PENN.



PUBLISHED AT HARRISBURGH, (PENN.)
BY JOHN WYETH.
----1809.----




DISTRICT OF _PENNSYLVANIA_,

TO WIT:

[Illustration: SEAL.]

Be it remembered, that on
the twenty fourth day of November,
in the thirty-third year of the Independence
of the United States of
America, A. D. 1808, SAMUEL McHARRY,
of the said district, hath deposited in this
Office, the title of a Book, the right whereof he
claims as author, in the words following, to wit:

_The Practical Distiller: or an introduction to making
Whiskey, Gin, Brandy, Spirits, &c. &c. of
better quality, and in larger quantities, than produced
by the present mode of distilling, from the produce
of the United States: such as Rye, Corn, Buckwheat,
Apples, Peaches, Potatoes, Pumpions and
Turnips. With directions how to conduct and improve
the practical part of distilling in all its branches.
Together with directions for purifying, clearing
and colouring Whiskey, making Spirits similar to
French Brandy, &c. from the Spirits of Rye, Corn,
Apples, Potatoes &c. &c. and sundry extracts of
approved receipts for making Cider, domestic Wines,
and Beer. By SAMUEL McHARRY, of Lancaster
county, Pennsylvania._

In conformity to the act of the Congress of the
United States, entitled, "An act for the encouragement
of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps,
Charts, and Books, to the Authors and proprietors
of such copies during the times therein mentioned."
And also to the act, entitled, "An act supplementary
to an act, entitled, 'An act for the encouragement
of Learning, by securing the copies
of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the authors and
proprietors of such copies during the time therein
mentioned,' and extending the benefits thereof
to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching
historical and other prints."

D. CALDWELL,
_Clerk of the district of Pennsylvania._




CONTENTS:


                                                                  _Page_
SECTION I
_Observations on Yeast._                                          25
_Receipt for making stock Yeast._                                 27
_Vessel most proper for preserving_ do.                           30
_To ascertain the quality of_ do.                                 31
_To renew_ do.                                                    32
_Observations on the mode in which distillers generally work_ do. 33
_How stock Yeast may be kept good for years._                     34
_To make best Yeast for daily use._                               36
SECTION II
_Observations on the best wood for hogsheads._                    39
_To sweeten by scalding_ ditto.                                   41
Ditto, _burning_ do.                                              42
SECTION III
_To mash rye in the common mode._                                 44
_Best method of distilling rye._                                  45
_To mash one-third rye with two-thirds corn._                     47
Do. _an equal quantity of rye and corn._                          49
Do. _two-thirds rye and one-third corn._                          51
Do. _corn._                                                       54
_To make four gallons to the bushel._                             55
_To know when grain is sufficiently scalded._                     58
_Directions for cooling off._                                     59
_To ascertain when rye works well._                               61
_To prevent hogsheads from working over._                         62
SECTION IV
_Observations on the quality of rye._                             63
_Mode of chopping rye._                                           64
Do. _or grinding indian corn._                                    65
Do. _malt._                                                       66
_To choose malt._                                                 67
_To build a malt-kiln._                                           67
_To make malt for stilling._                                      69
_Of hops._                                                        69
SECTION V
_How to order and fill the singling still._                       69
_Mode of managing the doubling still._                            71
_On the advantages of making good whiskey._                       73
_Distilling buckwheat._                                           77
_Distilling potatoes, with observations._                         78
_Receipt to prepare potatoes for distilling._                     82
_Distilling pumpions._                                            83
Do. _turnips._                                                    83
Do. _apples._                                                     84
_To order_ do. _in the hogsheads._                                85
_To work_ do. _fast or slow._                                     86
_To know when apples are ready for distilling._                   87
_To fill and order the singling still for apples._                88
_To double apple-brandy._                                         90
_To prepare peaches._                                             91
_To double and single_ do.                                        92
SECTION VI
_Best mode of setting stills._                                    93
_To prevent the planter from cracking._                           98
_Method of boiling more than one still by a single fire._         99
_To set a doubling still._                                       100
_To prevent the singling still from rusting._                    101
SECTION VII
_How to clarify whiskey._                                        102
_To make a brandy, from rye, spirits or whiskey, to
  resemble French Brandy._                                       103
_To make a spirit from_ ditto, _to resemble Jamaica
  spirits._                                                      104
Do. _Holland gin._                                               105
Do. _country gin, and clarifying same._                          107
_On fining liquors._                                             110
_On coloring liquors._                                           111
_To correct the taste of singed whiskey._                        112
_To give an aged flavor._                                        113
SECTION VIII
_Observations on weather._                                       115
Do. _water._                                                     117
_Precautions against fire._                                      119
SECTION IX
_Duty of the owner of a distillery._                             120
Do. _of a hired distiller._                                      123
SECTION X
_The profits arising from a common distillery._                  125
Do. _from a patent distillery._                                  127
_Of hogs._                                                       129
_Diseases of hogs._                                              133
_Feeding cattle and milk cows._                                  134
SECTION XI
_Observations on erecting distilleries._                         135
SECTION XII
_On Wines._                                                      139
_Receipt for making ditto, from the autumn blue grape._          140
Ditto, _from currants._                                          142
Do. _for making cider, British mode._                            143
Do.     do.         _American mode._                             145
Do. _for an excellent American wine._                            150
Do.     do.      _honey wine._                                   153
_To make elderberry wine._                                       156
Do.     do.   _cordial._                                         157
SECTION XIII
_Of brewing beer._                                               160
_Of the brewing vessels._                                        160
_Of cleaning and sweetening casks and brewing vessels._          161
_Of mashing or raking liquors._                                  163
_Of working the liquor._                                         167
_Of fining malt liquors._                                        170
_Season for brewing._                                            172
_To make elderberry beer or ebulum._                             173
_To make improved purl._                                         174
_To brew strong beer._                                           175
_To make china ale._                                             176
_To make any new liquor drink as stale._                         177
_To recover sour ale._                                           177
_To recover liquor that is turned bad._                          178
_Directions for bottling._                                       178
_To make ale or beer of cooked malt._                            179
_To make treacle (or molasses) beer._                            181




PREFACE.


When I first entered on the business of Distilling, I was totally
unacquainted with it. I was even so ignorant of the process, as not to
know that fermentation was necessary, in producing spirits from grain. I
had no idea that fire being put under a still, which, when hot enough,
would raise a vapour; or that vapour when raised, could be condensed by
a worm or tube passing through water into a liquid state. In short, my
impressions were, that chop-rye mixed with water in a hogshead, and let
stand for two or three days; and then put into a still, and fire being
put under her, would produce the spirit by boiling up into the worm, and
to pass through the water in order to cool it, and render it palatable
for immediate use--and was certain the whole art and mystery could be
learned in two or three weeks, or months at farthest, as I had
frequently met with persons who professed a knowledge of the business,
which they had acquired in two or three months, and tho' those men were
esteemed distillers, and in possession of all the necessary art, in this
very abstruse science; I soon found them to be ignorant blockheads,
without natural genius, and often, without principle.

Thus benighted, and with only the above light and knowledge, I entered
into the dark, mysterious and abstruse science of distilling, a business
professed to be perfectly understood by many, but in fact not
sufficiently understood by any. For it presents a field for the learned,
and man of science, for contemplation--that by a judicious and
systematic appropriation and exercise of certain elements, valuable and
salutary spirits and beverages may be produced in great perfection, and
at a small expense, and little inconvenience, on almost every farm in
our country.

The professed chymist, and profound theorist may smile at my ideas, but
should any one of them ever venture to soil a finger in the practical
part of distilling, I venture to say, he would find more difficulty in
producing good yeast, than in the process of creating oxygen or hydrogen
gas. Scientific men generally look down on us, and that is principally
owing to the circumstance of so many knaves, blockheads and conceited
characters being engaged in the business.--If then, the subject could be
improved, I fancy our country would yield all the necessary liquors,
and in a state of perfection, to gratify the opulent, and please the
epicure.

I had no difficulty in finding out a reputed great distiller, whose
directions I followed in procuring every necessary ingredient and
material for distilling, &c. He was industrious and attentive, and
produced tolerable yield, but I soon found the quantity of the runs to
vary, and the yield scarcely two days alike. I enquired into the cause,
of him, but his answers were, he could not tell; I also enquired of
other distillers, and could procure no more satisfactory answer--some
attributed it to the water, others to witchcraft, &c. &c.

I found them all ignorant--I was equally so, and wandered in the dark;
but having commenced the business, I determined to have light on the
subject; I thought there must be books containing instructions, but to
my surprise, after a diligent search of all the book-stores and
catalogues in Pennsylvania, I found there was no American work extant,
treating on this science--and those of foreign production, so at
variance with our habits, customs, and mode of economy, that I was
compelled to abandon all hope of scientific or systematic aid, and move
on under the instructions of those distillers of our neighborhood, who
were little better informed than myself, but who cheerfully informed me
of their experiments, and the results, and freely communicated their
opinions and obligingly gave me their receipts. In the course of my
progress, I purchased many receipts, and hesitated not to procure
information of all who appeared to possess it, and sometimes at a heavy
expense, and duly noted down all such discoveries and communications--made
my experiments from time to time, and in various seasons, carefully
noting down the results. Having made the business my constant and only
study, carefully attending to the important branch of making yeast, and
studying the cause and progress of fermentation, proceeding with
numerous experiments, and always studying to discover the cause of every
failure, or change, or difference in the yield. I could, after four
years attention, tell the cause of such change, whether in the water,
yeast, fermentation, quality of the grain, chopping the grain, or in
mashing, and carefully corrected it immediately. By a thus close and
indefatigable attention, I brought it to a system, in my mind, and to a
degree of perfection, that I am convinced nothing but a long series of
practice could have effected.

From my record of most improved experiments, I cheerfully gave
receipts to those who applied, and after their adoption obtaining some
celebrity, I found applications so numerous, as to be troublesome, and
to be impossible for me to furnish the demands gratis, of consequence, I
was compelled to furnish to some, and refuse others; a conduct so
pregnant with partiality, and a degree of illiberality naturally gave
rise to murmurs.

My friends strongly recommended a publication of them, the plan
requiring the exercise of talents, order and method, with which I
presumed myself not sufficiently versed, I for sometime obstinately
refused, but at length and after reiterated solicitation, I consented to
enter on the talk, under a flattering hope of affording useful
information to those of my country engaged in the distillation of
spirits from the growth of our native soil, which together with the
following reasons, I offer as the only apology.

1st. I observed many distillers making fortunes, whilst others
exercising an equal share of industry, and of equal merit were sinking
money, owing to a want of knowledge in the business.

2d. In taverns I often observed foreign liquors drank in preference to
those of domestic manufacture, though really of bad quality, possessing
pernicious properties acquired from ingredients used by those in our
commercial towns, who brew and compose brandies, spirits, and wines,
often from materials most injurious to health, and this owing to so much
bad liquor being made in our country, from which the reputation of
domestic spirit has sunk. Whilst, in fact, we can make domestic spirits
of various materials, which with a little management and age, will be
superior to any of foreign produce.

3d. By making gin, &c. as good if not better, we might in a few years,
meet those foreign merchants in their own markets, and undersell them;
which we certainly could do, by making our liquors good, and giving them
the same age. The transportation would of consequence improve them in an
equal degree, for the only advantage their liquors of the same age have
over our good liquors, is the mildness acquired by the friction in the
warm hold of the ship in crossing the ocean.

And moreover as liquors will be drank by people of all standings in
society, I flattered myself I could improve our liquors, render them
more wholesome to those whose unhappy habits compel a too free use of
ardent spirits, and whose constitutions may have been doubly injured
from the pernicious qualities of such as they were compelled to use. For
there are in all societies and of both sexes, who will drink and use
those beverages to excess, even when there exists a moral certainty,
that they will sustain injury from such indulgence, and as an evidence
of my hypothesis, I offer the free use of coffee, tea, &c. so
universally introduced at the tables of people of every grade.

The wise Disposer of worlds, very happily for mankind, permits the
exhibition of genius, mind and talents, from the peasant and lower
order, as well as from the monarch, the lord, and the opulent. To Europe
they of course are not confined--Genius has already figured in our
hemisphere--The arts and sciences are becoming familiar, they rise
spontaneously from our native soil, and bid fair to vie with, if not
out-shine accomplished Europe. In possession, then, of all the necessary
materials, ingredients and requisites, I would ask why we cannot afford
ardent spirits and wines equal to those imported; and thus raise our
character to a standing with other countries, and retain those millions
of dollars at home, which are yearly shipped abroad for those foreign
liquors, so common, so universally in use, and much of which so
adulterated, as to be followed, when freely used, with unhappy
consequences. Would men of capital and science, turn their attention to
distillations, from the produce of our own country, preserve the liquor
until age and management would render it equal, if not superior to any
imported; is it not probable that it would become an article of export,
and most sensibly benefit our country at large.

Considerations such as those have combined to determine a publication of
my work; fully apprised of the scoffs of pedants, kicks, bites and
bruises of critics--but I hope they will find latitude for the exercise
of a share of compassion, when I inform them candidly, that a mill and
distillery, or still house, were substituted for, and the only college
and academy in which I ever studied, and those studies were broken, and
during the exercise of my business, as a miller and distiller.

That it contains errors in the diction and perspicuity, I will readily
confess--but that it is in substance true, and contains much useful
information, I must declare as an indisputable fact. And though the road
I travelled was a new one, without compass, chart, or even star to steer
by, not even a book to assist me in thinking, or cheer me in my gloomy
passage--seeking from those springs of nature, and inherent endowments
for consolatory aid--pressing on a frequently exhausted mind, for
resources and funds, to accomplish the objects of my pursuits--not
denying but that I met many of my fellow-beings, who cheerfully aided me
with all the information in their power, and to whom I now present my
thanks--I must acknowledge, I think my labors and exertions will prove
useful to those of less experience than mine, in which event I shall
feel a more ample remuneration for my exertions, than the price asked
for one of those volumes.

Could I have witnessed the publication of a similar work by a man of
science and education, mine should never have appeared. But it would
seem the learned and scientific have never considered a work of the kind
as meriting their attention; a circumstance deeply to be regretted, as a
finer colouring to a work of the same properties and value often
procures celebrity, demand and currency. My object is to be useful, my
style plain, and only laboured to be rendered easy to be understood, and
convey the necessary instruction to those who may honor this work with a
perusal, or resort to it for information, and that it may be useful to
my countrymen, is the sincere wish of

THE AUTHOR.




INTRODUCTION.


It is not more than twenty years since whiskey was first offered for
sale in the seaport towns in large quantities; and then, owing to its
badness, at a very low price. Since that period it has been gaining
ground yearly, and at this time, it is the second great article of
commerce, in the states of Pennsylvania and Maryland.

In the interior of these states, it has nearly excluded the use of
foreign distilled spirits, and I fancy might be made so perfectly pure
and nice, as to ultimately supersede the use of any other throughout the
United States.

To assist in effecting this, the greatest attention should be paid to
cleanliness, which in a distillery is absolutely necessary, the want of
which admits of no excuse, where water is had without price.

If a distiller does not by a most industrious well-timed care and
attention, preserve every utensil perfectly sweet and clean, he may
expect, notwithstanding he has well attended to the other branches, but
indifferent whiskey and not much of it.

If, for instance, every article, or only one article in the composition
of yeast be sour or dirty, that one article will most assuredly injure
the whole; which being put into a hogshead of mashed grain, soon imparts
its acidity or filth to the whole mass, and of course will reduce the
quantity and quality of the spirit yielded from that hogshead.
Cleanliness in every matter and thing, in and about a distillery becomes
an indispensable requisite, without a strict observance of which the
undertaker will find the establishment unproductive and injurious to his
interest. Purity cannot exist without cleanliness. Cleanliness in the
human system will destroy an obstinate itch, of consequence, it is the
active handmaid of health and comfort, and without which, decency does
not exist.

Care is another important and necessary consideration, and a basis
necessary, on which to erect a distillery, in order to ensure it
productive of wealth and reputation. Care and industry will ensure
cleanliness; an eye of care must be extended to every thing, that
nothing be lost, that every thing be in its proper place and order, that
every thing be done in due time; the business must be well timed, and
time well economised, as it ranks in this, as in every other business
very high. Let a judicious attention be paid to care, cleanliness, and
industry, and when united with a competent knowledge of the different
branches of the distilling business, the character of a compleat
practical distiller is perfect.

With such a distiller, and a complete still-house, furnished with every
necessary utensil for carrying on the business--it cannot fail to prove
a very productive establishment, and present to the world, from the
materials of our own farms, a spirit as wholesome, and well flavored and
as healthy as any spirit whatever--the produce or yield of any country,
provided it be permitted to acquire the same age.

What a grand and great idea strikes the thinking scientific mind, on
entering a complete and clean distillery, with an intelligent cleanly
distiller, performing his duty in it.

To see the four elements, each combining to produce (with the assistance
of man) an article of commerce and luxury, and at the same time, a
necessary beverage to man. The earth producing the grain, hops and
utensils, which a combination of fire and water reduces into a liquid by
fermentation, and when placed in the still to see air engaging fire to
assist her in reducing the liquid that fire and water had produced, into
a vapour, or air, and afterwards to see fire abandoning air, and
assisting water to reduce it into a liquid by means of the condensing
tubes, and then to consider the number of hands employed in keeping the
distillery a going, will present one other patriotic idea. The farmer
with all his domestics and people, engaged in the cultivation of the
rye, corn, &c. The wood choppers--the haling--the coopers engaged in
making casks--the hands engaged in feeding cattle and the pork--haling,
barrelling and selling the whiskey, spirits, pork, &c. The produce of
the distillery, presenting subject for commerce, and employ for the
merchant, mechanic and mariner--and all from our own farms.

After seeing the distillery afford employment for so many hands, bread
to their families, and yielding the means of an extensive revenue and
increase of commerce--with a flattering prospect of completely
annihilating the use of foreign liquors in our country, and thereby
saving the expenditure of millions of dollars; and ultimately rendering
our liquors an article of export and source of wealth--I presume every
mind will be struck with the propriety of encouraging a branch of
business so promising in wealth and comfort.

The following receipts are intended to convey all the instruction
necessary in the science of distilling, and producing from the growth of
our own farms, the best spirits of every description, and such as I
flatter myself will supersede the use of all imported liquors, and
thereby fulfil the views and wishes of

THE AUTHOR.





PRACTICAL DISTILLER.




SECTION I.

_Observations on Yeast._


That yeast is the main spring in distilling, is acknowledged by all
distillers, tho' but few if them understand it, either in its nature or
operation; tho' many pretend a knowledge of the grand subject of
fermentation, and affect to understand the best mode of making stock
yeast, and to know a secret mode unknown to all others--when it is my
belief they know very little about it; but, by holding out the idea of
adding some drug, not to be procured at every house, which has a hard
name, and that is little known to people of common capacities: Such as
Dragons blood, &c. frequently retailing their secret, as the best
possible mode of making stock yeast, at ten, twenty, and in some
instances one hundred dollars.

Confessing it a subject, abstruse, and a science little understood in
Pennsylvania, and notwithstanding the numerous experiments I have made
with care and close observation, yet from a consciousness of not
understanding it, _too well_, I have in several instances purchased
receipts, and made faithful experiments; but have never yet met the man
of science, theory, or practice, whose mode of making stock yeast,
yielded a better preparation for promoting fermentation, than the simple
mode pursued by myself for some years, and which I have uniformly found
to be the best and most productive.

In making yeast, all drugs and witchcraft are unnecessary--Cleanliness, in
preserving the vessels perfectly sweet, good malt, and hops, and an
industrious distiller, capable of observation, and attention to the
following receipt, which will be assuredly found to contain the essence and
spirit of the ways and art of making that composition, a knowledge of which
I have acquired, by purchases--consultations with the most eminent brewers,
bakers, and distillers in this commonwealth, and above all, from a long
practice and experience, proving its utility and superior merits to my
most perfect satisfaction; and which I with pleasure offer to my
fellow-citizens, as meriting a preference--notwithstanding the proud and
scientific chymist, and the flowery declarations or treatises of the
profound theorist, may disapprove this simple mode, and offer those which
they presume to be better, tho' they never soiled a finger in making a
practical experiment, or perhaps witnessed a process of any description.


ARTICLE II.

_Receipt for Stock Yeast._

_For a stock yeast vessel of two gallons, the size best adapted for that
purpose._

Take one gallon good barley malt, (be sure it be of good quality) put it
into a clean, well scalded vessel, (which take care shall be perfectly
sweet) pour thereon four gallons scalding water, (be careful your water
be clean) stir the malt and water with a well scalded stick, until
thoroughly mixed together, then cover the vessel close with a clean
cloth, for half an hour; then uncover it and set it in some convenient
place to settle, after three or four hours, or when you are sure the
sediment of the malt is settled to the bottom, then pour off the top, or
thin part that remains on the top, into a clean well scoured iron pot,
(be careful not to disturb the thick sediment in the bottom, and that
none of it goes into the pot); then add four ounces good hops, and cover
the pot close with a clean scalded iron cover, and set it on a hot fire
of coals to boil--boil it down one third, or rather more, then strain
all that is in the pot through a thin hair sieve, (that is perfectly
clean) into a clean well scalded earthen crock that is glazed--then stir
into it, with a clean stirring stick, as much superfine flour as will
make it about half thick, that is neither thick nor thin, but between
the two, stirring it effectually until there be no lumps left in it. If
lumps are left, you will readily perceive that the heart or inside of
those lumps will not be scalded, and of course, when the yeast begins to
work, those lumps will sour very soon, and of course sour the
yeast--stir it then till those lumps are all broken, and mixed up, then
cover it close for half an hour, to let the flour stirred therein, be
properly scalded, after which uncover and stir it frequently until it is
a little colder than milk warm, (to be ascertained by holding your
finger therein for ten minutes, but beware your finger is clean) then
add half a pint of genuine good yeast,[1] (be certain it is good, for
you had better use none, than bad yeast) and stir it effectually, until
you are sure the yeast is perfectly incorporated with the ingredients in
the pot--after which cover it, and set it in a moderately cool place in
summer, until you perceive it begin to work, or ferment--then be careful
to stir it two or three times at intervals of half an hour--then set it
past to work--in the winter, place it in a moderately warm part of the
still-house--and in summer, choose a spring house, almost up to the brim
of the crock in water--avoiding extremes of heat or cold, which are
equally prejudicial to the spirit of fermentation--of consequence, it
should be placed in a moderately warm situation in the winter, and
moderately cool in the summer.

[Footnote 1: If none can be obtained that is good, the following is a
receipt to make it, viz.

Procure three wooden vessels of different sizes and apertures, one
capable of holding two quarts, the other three or four, and the third
five or six; boil a quarter of a peck of malt for about eight or ten
minutes in three pints of water; and when a quart is poured off from the
grains, let it stand in a cool place till not quite cold, but retaining
that degree of heat which the brewers usually find to be proper when
they begin to work their liquor. Then remove the vessel into some warm
situation near a fire, where the thermometer stands between 70 and 80
degrees (Fahrenheit,) and here let it remain till the fermentation
begins, which will be plainly perceived within thirty hours; add then
two quarts more of a like decoction of malt, when cool, as the first
was; and mix the whole in the larger sized vessel, and stir it well in,
which must be repeated in the usual way, as it rises in a common vat:
then add a still greater quantity of the same decoction, to be worked in
the largest vessel, which will produce yeast enough for a brewing of
forty gallons.]

This yeast ought to be renewed every four or five days in the summer,
and eight or ten days in the winter--but it is safer to renew it
oftener, or at shorter intervals, than suffering it to stand longer. In
twenty-four hours after it begins to work, it is fit for use.

Between a pint and half a pint of the foregoing stock yeast, is
sufficient to raise the yeast for the daily use of three hogsheads.


ART. III.

The most proper vessel for preserving stock yeast is an earthen crock,
that will hold three gallons at least, with a cover of the same, well
glazed--as it will contract no acid from the fermentation, and is easily
scalded and sweetened. There ought to be two of the same size, that when
one is in use, the other may be sweetening--which is effected by
exposing them to frost or fire.


ART. IV.

_To know when Yeast is good or bad._

When you perceive your yeast working, observe if it works quick, sharp
and strong, and increasing in bulk nearly double what it was before it
began to work, with a sweet sharp taste, and smell, with the appearance
of a honey comb, with pores, and always changing place, with a bright
lively colour, then you may pronounce your yeast good; on the contrary,
if it is dead, or flat and blue looking, with a sour taste, and smell,
(if any at all,) then you may pronounce it bad, and unfit for use, and
of course must be renewed.


ART. V.

_How to renew Yeast when sour._

About two hours before you begin to make your beer, take one pint of the
sour yeast, put it into a clean dish or vessel, and pour clean cold
water over it--changing the water every fifteen minutes, until the acid
be extracted, have it then in readiness to mix with the beer, which is
to be prepared, in the following manner, viz. Take one pint malt, and
scald it well in a clean vessel, with a gallon of boiling water, let it
stand half an hour closely covered--then pour it into a pot with plenty
of hops--then strain it into a well scalded earthen jug, when milk
warm--add then a small quantity of the yeast, (sweetened as directed in
the first part of this receipt,) with two or three table spoon fulls of
molasses ... set it past for twenty four hours to ferment ... then pour
off the top, or beer that is in the jug, leaving about a quart in the
bottom ... then that which remains in the bottom will be yeast with
which to start your stock yeast.


ART. VI.

The method of procuring and keeping stock yeast, by the generality of
distillers, merits in the mind of the author of this work, most decided
disapprobation. They generally procure yeast once a week, or month, from
brewers, and if not convenient to be had in this way, they often use
such as is used by country women, for baking bread, without paying any
regard to the quality, or whether sour; with such, tho' generally bad,
they proceed to make their daily yeast, and often continue the use of
it, until the grain will no longer yield a gallon of whiskey to the
bushel, and so often proceed in this miserable and indolent mode of
procuring and renewing yeast, to the great prejudice of their own, and
employer's interest ... attributing the small yield of liquor to the
badness of the grain ... the manner in which it is chopped, or some
other equally false cause. Then to the idle and careless habits of
distillers, must be attributed any yield short of three gallons to the
bushel of rye.... To ensure this quantity at least from the bushel, the
author discovers the anxiety expressed, and the care recommended in the
foregoing pages, on the subject of preserving and keeping good yeast,
and recommends the following as the best mode of preparing.


ART. VII.

_Stock Yeast good for years._

When the weather is moderately warm in autumn or the spring, take of
your best stock yeast that has fermented about twenty four hours, and
stir it thick with the coarsest middlings of wheat flour, add small
quantity of whiskey, in which, previously dissolve a little salt, when
you have stirred the middlings with a stick, rub it between your hands
until it becomes pretty dry, then spread it out thin, on a board to dry
in the sun ... rubbing once or twice in the day between your hands until
it is perfectly dry, which will be in three or four good days--taking it
in at night before the dew falls--when it is properly dried, put it up
in a paper and keep it in a dry airy place for use.

Thus yeast will keep good, if free from moisture, for any length of
time, and it is the only effectual mode of preserving stock yeast pure
and sweet ... when put up conformably to the foregoing instructions, the
distiller may always rely on having it good, and depend on a good turn
out of his grain, provided he manages the other parts of his distilling
equally well.

About two hours before you mean to use the dried yeast, the mode is to
take two gills, place it in any convenient vessel, and pour thereon
milk-warm water, stir and mix it well with the yeast, and in two or
three hours good working yeast will be produced.

In the spring every distiller ought to make as much as would serve 'till
fall, and every fall as much as will serve thro' the winter, reckoning
on the use of one pint per week, three gills being sufficient to start
as much stock yeast as will serve a common distillery one week.


ART. VIII.

_To make the best Yeast for daily use._

For three hogsheads take two handfuls of hops, put them into an iron
pot, and pour thereon three gallons boiling water out of your boiler,
set the pot on the fire closely covered half an hour, to extract the
strength from the hops, then strain it into your yeast vessel, thicken
it with chopped rye, from which the bran has been sifted ... stir it
with a clean stick until the lumps are all well broken and mixed ...
cover it close with a cloth for half an hour, adding at the time of
putting in the chopped rye, one pint of good malt when the rye is
sufficiently scalded, uncover and stir it well until it is milk-warm,
then add one pint good stock yeast, stirring until you are sure it is
well mixed with the new yeast. If your stock yeast is good, this method
will serve you ... observing always, that your water and vessels are
clean, and the ingredients of a good quality; as soon as you have cooled
off and emptied your yeast vessel, scald and scour, and expose it to the
night air to purify. Tin makes the best yeast vessel for yeast made
daily, in the above mode.

In the course of my long practice in distilling I fully discovered that
a nice attention to yeast is absolutely necessary, and altho' I have in
the foregoing pages said a great deal on the subject, yet from the
importance justly to be attached to this ingredient in distilling, and
to shew more fully the advantages and disadvantages arising from the use
of good and bad yeast, I submit the following statement for the
consideration of my readers.

Advantages in using good yeast for one month,
  at 5 bushels per day; 30 days at 5 bushels,
  is 150 bushels at 60 cents, costs          $ 90 00

Contra
150 bushels yield 3 gallons per bushel, at
  50 cents per gallon--450 gallons,
                                               225 00
                                             --------
                                     Profit  $ 135 00

Disadvantages sustained during the above period.
  150 bushels at 60 cents,                   $  90 00

Contra
150 bushes yielding 1-1/2 gallons to the
  bushel--225 gallons at 50 cents,             112 50
                                              -------
                                     Profit  $  21 50

Thus the owner or distiller frequently sustains in the distillation of
his produce, a loss, equal and in proportion to the foregoing--from the
use of indifferent yeast, and often without knowing to what cause to
attribute it. This statement will shew more forcibly, than any other
mode--and is made very moderate on the side of indifferent yeast, for
with bad sour yeast the yield will be oftener under one gallon to the
bushel than above one and an half--whereas with good yeast the yield
will rarely be so low as three gallons to the bushel. It is therefore, I
endeavor so strongly to persuade the distiller to pay every possible
attention to the foregoing instructions, and the constant use of good
yeast only, to the total rejection of all which may be of doubtful
quality.




SECTION II.


ARTICLE I.

_Observations on Wood for Hogsheads._

The cheapest and easiest wrought wood is generally most used for making
mashing tubs, or hogsheads, and very often for dispatch or from
necessity, any wood that is most convenient is taken, as pine or
chesnut; indeed I have seen poplar tubs in use for mashing, which is
very wrong, as a distiller by not having his hogsheads of good wood, may
lose perhaps the price of two sets of hogsheads in one season. For
instance, a farmer is about to erect a distillery, and is convenient to
a mountain, abounding in chesnut or pine, which from its softness and
the ease with which it may be worked, its convenience for dispatch sake,
is readily chosen for his mashing hogsheads.--To such selection of wood,
I offer my most decided disapprobation, from my long experience, I
know that any kind of soft wood will not do in warm weather. Soft porus
wood made up into mashing tubs when full of beer and under fermentation,
will contract, receive or soak in so much acid, as to penetrate nearly
thro' the stave, and sour the vessel to such a degree, in warm weather,
that no scalding will take it out--nor can it be completely sweetened
until filled with cold water for two or three days, and then scalded; I
therefore strongly recommend the use of, as most proper

_White Oak._

Disapproving of black, tho' next in order to white oak staves for all
the vessels about the distillery ... as being the most durable of close
texture, easily sweetened ... and hard to be penetrated by acids of any
kind, tho' sometimes the best white oak hogsheads may sour, but two or
three scaldings will render them perfectly sweet ... if white oak cannot
be had, black oak being of the next best in quality may be used ... and
again I enter my protest against pine, chesnut, poplar, and every kind
of soft porus wood.

If possible, or if at all convenient, have the vessels iron bound and
painted, to prevent worms and the weather from injuring them, using one
good wood hoop on the bottom to save the chine.


ART. II.

_To sweeten Hogsheads by scalding._

When you turn your vessels out of doors (for it is esteemed slothful and
a lazy mode to scald them in the still house,) you must wash them clean
with your scrubbing brush, then put in sixteen or twenty gallons boiling
water--cover it close for about twenty minutes, then scrub it out
effectually with your scrubbing broom, then rinse your vessel well with
a couple buckets clean cold water, and set them out to receive the
air--this method will do in the winter, provided they are left out in
the frost over night--but in summer, and especially during the months of
July and August, this mode will not do--it is during those extreme warm
months in our latitude, that the vessels are liable to contract putrid
particles, which may be corrected by the following mode of making

_Hogsheads perfectly sweet._

Scald them twice, as above directed, then light a brimstone match, flick
it on the ground, turn your hogshead down over it, let it stand until
the match quits burning, this operation is necessary once a week--a
method I have found effectual.


ART. III.

_To sweeten Hogsheads by burning._

When you have scalded your hogsheads well, put into each, a large
handful of oat or rye straw, set it on fire, and stir it till it is in
a blaze, then turn the mouth of the hogshead down; the smoke will purify
and sweeten the cask. This process should be repeated every other day,
especially during summer--it will afford you good working casks,
provided your yeast be good, and your hogsheads are well mashed.

There ought always to be in a distillery more vessels than are necessary
for immediate use, that they may alternately be exposed to the frost and
air one night at least before brought into service, always bearing in
mind that the utmost attention to cleanliness is necessary, in order to
afford such yield from the grain, or fruit, as may be requisite to
compensate for the expense and labor of extracting spirits--and
moreover, that the exercise of the finest genius possessed by man is
scarcely capable of taking from small grain, all the spirit it
contains:.... good materials will not suffice ... the most marked
attention is indispensably necessary to yeast; a mind capable of judging
of fermentation in all its stages ... a close adherence to the manner of
using the ingredients ... preparing them, and the use of sweet vessels,
with great industry and a knowledge to apply it at the proper moment,
are all necessary to enable the accomplishment of the desired end.

Note ... In scalding your hogshead I would recommend the use of a shovel
full of ashes, which will scald more sharply.




SECTION III.


ARTICLE I.

_To Mash Rye in the common mode._

Take four gallons cold water to each hogshead, add one gallon malt, stir
it well with your mashing stick, until the malt is thoroughly wet--when
your still boils, put in about sixteen gallons boiling water, then put
in one and an half bushels of chopped rye, stirring it effectually,
until there is no lumps in it, then cover it close until the still
boils, then put in each hogshead, three buckets or twelve gallons
boiling water, stirring it well at the same time--cover it close--stir
it at intervals until you perceive your rye is scalded enough, which you
will know by putting in your mashing stick, and lifting thereon some of
the scalded rye, you will perceive the heart or seed of the rye, like a
grain of timothy seed sticking to the stick, and no appearance of mush,
when I presume it will be sufficiently scalded--it must then be stirred
until the water is cold enough to cool off, or you may add one bucket or
four gallons of cold water to each hogshead, to stop the scalding.

I have known this process succeed well with an attentive distiller.


ART. II.

_The best method of distilling Rye._

Take four gallons boiling, and two gallons cold water--put it into a
hogshead, then stir in one and a half bushels chopped rye, let it stand
five minutes, then add two gallons cold water, and one gallon malt,
stir it effectually--let it stand till your still boils, then add
sixteen gallons boiling water, stirring it well, or until you break all
the lumps--then put into each hogshead, so prepared, one pint coarse
salt, and one shovel full of hot coals out of your furnace. (The coals
and salt have a tendency to absorb all sourness and bad smell, that may
be in the hogshead or grain;) if there be a small quantity of hot ashes
in the coals, it is an improvement--stir your hogsheads effectually
every fifteen minutes, keeping them close covered until you perceive the
grain scalded enough--when you may uncover, if the above sixteen gallons
boiling water did not scald it sufficiently, water must be added until
scalded enough--as some water will scald quicker than others--it is
necessary to mark this attentively, and in mashing two or three times,
it may be correctly ascertained what quantity of the kind of water used
will scald effectually--after taking off the covers, they must be
stirred effectually, every fifteen minutes, till you cool off--for which
operation, see "_Cooling off._" To those who distill all rye, I
recommend this method, as I have found it to answer every kind of water,
with one or two exceptions.

Distillers will doubtless make experiments of the various modes
recommended and use that which may prove most advantageous and
convenient.


ART. III.

_To Mash two thirds Rye and one third Corn in Summer._

This I have found to be the nicest process belonging to distilling--the
small proportion of corn, and the large quantity of scalding water,
together with the easy scalding of rye, and the difficulty of scalding
corn, makes it no easy matter to exactly hit the scald of both; but as
some distillers continue to practice it, (altho' not a good method in my
mind, owing to the extreme nice attention necessary in performing it.)
In the following receipt I offer the best mode within my knowledge, and
which I deem the most beneficial, and in which I shew the process and
mode pursued by other distillers.

Take four gallons cold water, put it into a hogshead, then stir half a
bushel corn into it, let it stand uncovered thirty minutes, then add
sixteen gallons boiling water, stir it well, cover it close for fifteen
minutes, then put in your rye and malt and stir it until there be no
lumps, then cover it and stir it at intervals until your still boils,
then add, eight, twelve, or sixteen gallons boiling water, or such
quantity as you find from experience, to answer best--(but with most
water, twelve gallons will be found to answer) stirring it well every
fifteen minutes until you perceive it is scalded enough, then uncover
and stir it effectually until you cool off; keeping in mind always that
the more effectually you stir it, the more whiskey will be yielded. This
method I have found to answer best, however, I have known it to do very
well, by soaking the corn in the first place, with two gallons warm, and
two gallons cold water, instead of the four gallons of cold water,
mentioned above--others put in the rye, when all the boiling water is in
the hogshead, but I never found it to answer a good purpose, nor indeed
did I ever find much profit in distilling rye and corn in this
proportion.


ART. IV.

_To distill one half Rye and one half Corn._

This method of distilling equal quantities of rye and corn, is more in
practice, and is much better than to distill unequal proportions, for
reason you can scald your corn and rye to a certainty, and the produce
is equal if not more, and better whiskey, than all rye. The indian corn
is cheaper, and the seed is better than if all rye. I would recommend
this, as the smallest quantity of corn to be mixed with rye for
distillation, as being most productive, and profitable. The following
receipt I have found to answer all waters--yet there may be places where
the distiller cannot follow this receipt exactly, owing to hard or soft
water, (as it is generally termed) or hard flint or soft floury corn,
that will either scald too much or too little--but this the attentive
distiller will soon determine by experience.

Have your hogshead perfectly sweet, put into each, three gallons of cold
and three of boiling water, or more or less of each, as you find will
answer best--then stir in your corn--fill up your boiler, bring it
briskly to a boil--then put to each hogshead twelve gallons boiling
water, giving each hogshead one hundred stirs, with your mashing stick,
then cover close, fill up your boiler and keep a good fire under her, to
produce a speedy boil; before you add the last water, put into each
hogshead one pint of salt, and a shovel full of hot coals and ashes from
under your still, stir the salt and coals well, to mix it with your
corn, the coal will remove any bad smell which may be in the
hogshead--Should you find on trial, that rye don't scald enough, by
putting it in after your last water, you may in that case put in your
rye before the last water--but this should be ascertained from several
experiments. I have found it to answer best to put in the rye after all
the water is in the hogshead, especially if you always bring the still
briskly to a boil--then on your corn put twelve or sixteen gallons
boiling water, (for the last water,) then if you have not already mashed
in your rye, put it in with one gallon good malt to each hogshead,
carefully stirring it immediately very briskly, for fear of the water
loosing its heat, and until the lumps are all broken, which you will
discover by looking at your mashing stick; lumps generally stick to it.
When done stirring, cover the hogshead close for half an hour, then
stir it to ascertain whether your grain be sufficiently scalded, and
when nearly scalded enough, uncover and stir steady until you have it
cool enough to stop scalding; when you see it is scalded enough, and by
stirring that the scalding is stopped, uncover your hogsheads, and stir
them effectually, every fifteen minutes, until they are fit to cool
off--remembering that sweet good yeast, clean sweet hogsheads, with this
mode of mashing carefully, will produce you a good turn out of your
grain. The quantity of corn and rye is generally two stroked half
bushels of each, and one gallon malt.


ART. V.

_To Mash one third Rye and two thirds Corn._

This I deem the most profitable mashing that a distiller can work, and
if he can get completely in the way of working corn and rye in this
proportion, he will find it the easiest process of mashing. That corn
has as much and as good whiskey as rye or any other grain, cannot be
disputed, and the slop or pot ale is much superior to that of any other
grain, for feeding or fattening either horned cattle or hogs--one gallon
of corn pot ale being esteemed worth three of rye, and cattle will
always eat it better--and moreover, corn is always from one to two
shillings per bushel cheaper than rye, and in many places much
plentier--so that by adopting this method and performing it well, the
distiller will find at the close of the year, it has advantages over all
other processes and mixtures of rye and corn, yielding more profit, and
sustaining the flock better. Hogs fatted on this pot ale, will be found
decidedly better than any fatted on the slops of any other kind of
mashing.

_Mash as follows._

Have sweet hogsheads, good yeast and clean water in your boiler; when
the water is sharp, warm, or half boiling, put into every hogshead you
mean to mash at the same time, six, eight or as many gallons of the half
boiling water, as will completely wet one bushel corn meal--add then
one bushel chopped corn, stir it with your mashing stick till your corn
is all wet; it is better to put in a less quantity of water first, and
so add as you may find necessary, until completely wet (be careful in
all mashings, that your mashing stick be clean), this is called soaking
the corn. Then fill up your boiler, bring her quickly to a boil, when
effectually boiling, put into every hogshead, twelve gallons boiling
water, stirring it well after putting in each bucket, until the lumps
are quite broken--cover the hogsheads close, after a complete
stirring--fill up your boiler, bring her quickly to boil for the last
mashing--stir the corn in the hogshead every fifteen minutes, till your
last water is boiling--put into each hogshead one pint salt, and a
shovel full of red hot coals, stirring it well--then put in each
hogshead sixteen gallons of boiling water, stir it well--cover it close
for twenty-five minutes--then put into each hogshead one half bushel rye
meal, and one gallon good chopped malt, stirring it until the lumps are
all broken, then cover it close, stir it every half hour, until you
perceive it sufficiently scalded--then uncover it and stir it as often
as your other business will permit, until ready to cool off.

In this and every other mashing you must use sweet vessels only and good
yeast, or your labor will be in vain; and in all kinds of mashing you
cannot stir too much.


ART. VI.

_To Mash Corn._

This is an unprofitable and unproductive mode of mashing, but there may
be some times when the distiller is out of rye, on account of the mill
being stopped, bad roads, bad weather, or some other cause; and to avoid
the necessity of feeding raw grain to the hogs or cattle, (presuming
every distillery to be depended on for supplying a stock of some kind,
and often as a great reliance for a large stock of cattle and hogs,) in
cold weather I have found it answer very well, but in warm weather it
will not do. Those who may be compelled then from the above causes, or
led to it by fancy, may try the following method. To one hogshead, put
twelve gallons boiling water, and one and an half bushels corn, stir it
well, then when your water boils, add twelve gallons more, (boiling
hot,) stir it well, and cover it close, until the still boils the third
time, then put in each hogshead, one quart of salt, and sixteen gallons
boiling water, stir it effectually, cover it close until you perceive it
nearly scalded enough, then put in two, or three gallons cold water, (as
you will find to answer best,) and two gallons malt, or more if it can
be spared--stir it well, then cover it for half an hour, then uncover
and stir it well, until cold enough to cool off.


ART. VII.

_To make four gallons from the bushel._

This is a method of mashing that I much approve of, and recommend to all
whiskey distillers to try it--it is easy in process, and is very little
more trouble than the common method, and may be done in every way of
mashing, as well with corn or rye, as also a mixture of each, for eight
months in the year; and for the other four is worth the trouble of
following. I do not mean to say that the quantity of four gallons can be
made at an average, in every distillery, with every sort of grain, and
water, or during every vicissitude of weather, and by every distiller,
but this far I will venture to say, that a still house that is kept in
complete order, with good water, grain well chopped, good malt, hops,
and above all good yeast; together with an apt, careful and industrious
distiller, cannot fail to produce at an average for eight months in the
year, three and three quarter gallons from the bushel at a moderate
calculation. I have known it sometimes produce four and an half gallons
to the bushel, for two or three days, and sometimes for as many weeks,
when perhaps, the third or fourth day, or week, it would scarcely yield
three gallons; a change we must account for, in a change of weather, the
water or the neglect or ignorance of the distiller. For instance, we
know that four gallons of whiskey is in the bushel of rye or
corn--certain, that this quantity has been made from the bushel; then
why not always? Because, is the answer, there is something wrong, sour
yeast or hogsheads, neglect of duty in the distiller, change of grain,
or change of weather--then of course it is the duty of the distiller to
guard against all these causes as near as he can. The following method,
if it does not produce in every distillery the quantity above mentioned,
will certainly produce more whiskey from the bushel, than any other mode
I have ever known pursued.

Mash your grain in the method that you find will yield you most
whiskey--the day before you intend mashing, have a clean hogshead set in
a convenient part of the distillery; when your singling still is run
off, take the head off and fill her up with clean water, let her stand
half an hour, to let the thick part settle to the bottom, which it will
do when settled, dip out with a gallon or pail, and fill the clean
hogshead half full, let the hogshead stand until it cools a little, so
that when you fill it up with cool water, it will be about milk-warm,
then yeast it off with the yeast for making 4 gallons to the bushel,
then cover it close, and let it work or ferment until the day following,
when you are going to cool off; when the cold water is running into your
hogshead of mashed stuff, take the one third of this hogshead to every
hogshead, (the above being calculated for three hogsheads) to be mashed
every day, stirring the hogsheads well before you yeast them off. This
process is simple, and I flatter myself will be found worthy of the
trouble.


ART. VIII.

_To know when Grain is scalded enough._

Put your mashing stick into your hogshead and stir it round two or three
times gently, then lift it out and give it a gentle stroke on the edge
of your hogshead--if you perceive the batter or musky part fall off your
stick, and there remains the heart of the grain on your mashing stick,
like grains of timothy seed, then be assured that it is sufficiently
scalded, if not too much, this hint will suffice to the new beginner,
but experience and observation will enable the most correct judgment.


ART. IX.

_Directions for cooling off._

Much observation is necessary to enable the distiller to cool off with
judgment--which necessity is increased by the versatility of our
climate, the seasons of the year, and the kinds of water used. These
circumstances prevent a strict adherence to any particular or specific
mode; I however submit a few observations for the guidance of distillers
in this branch.--If in summer you go to cool off with cold spring water,
then of course the mashed stuff in your hogsheads must be much warmer,
than if you intended cooling off with creek or river water, both of
which are generally near milk warm, which is the proper heat for cooling
off--In summer a little cooler, and in winter a little warmer.

It will be found that a hogshead of mashed grain will always get warmer,
after it begins to work or ferment.

When the mashed stuff in your hogsheads is brought to a certain degree
of heat, by stirring, which in summer will feel sharp warm, or so warm,
that you can hardly bear your hand in it for any length of time, will do
for common water, but for very cold or very warm water to cool off with,
the stuff in the hogsheads must be left colder or warmer, as the
distiller may think most expedient, or to best suit the cooling off
water.

When you think it is time to cool off, have a trough or conveyance to
bring the water to your hogsheads ready--let the hogsheads be well
stirred, then let the water run into them slowly, stirring them all the
time the water is running in, until they are milk warm, then stop the
water, and after stirring them perfectly, put in the yeast and stir it
until completely incorporated with the mashed stuff, then cover your
hogshead until it begins to ferment or work, then uncover it.


ART. X.

_To ascertain when Rye works well in the Hogshead._

When mashed rye begins to work or ferment in the hogsheads, either in a
heavy, thick, or light bubbly top, both of which are unfavorable; when
it rises in a thick heavy top, you may be sure there is something wrong,
either in the grain, yeast, or cooling off. When the top (as called by
distillers) appear, with bubbles about the size of a nutmeg, rising and
falling alternately, with the top not too thick nor too thin, and with
the appearance of waves, mixed with the grain in the hogshead, rising
and falling in succession, and when you put your head over the steam,
and it flying into your nose, will have a suffocating effect, or when it
will instantly extinguish a candle when held over it, you may feel
assured, it is working well.

From these hints and the experience of the distiller, a judgment may be
formed of the state of fermentation and the quality.


ART. XI.

_To prevent Hogsheads from working over._

If the stuff is cooled off too warm, or too much yeast is put in the
hogsheads, they will work over, and of course lose a great deal of
spirit, to prevent which, take tallow and rub round the chine of the
hogsheads a little higher than they ought to work; it will generally
prevent them from rising any higher, but if they will work over in spite
of this remedy, then drop a little tallow into the stuff, it will
immediately sink the stuff to a proper height.




SECTION IV.


ARTICLE I.

_Observations on the quality of Rye for distilling._

The best rye for distilling is that which is thoroughly ripe, before it
is cut, and kept dry till threshed; if it has grown on high or hilly
ground, it is therefore to be preferred, being then sounder and the
grain fuller, than that produced on low level land--but very often the
distiller has no choice, but must take that which is most
convenient;--great care however ought to be observed in selecting sound
rye, that has been kept dry, is clean and free from cockle, and all
kind of dirt, advantages will result from fanning it, or running it
through a windmill before it is chopped.


ART. II.

_Mode of chopping Rye and the proper size._

The mill stones ought to be burrs, and kept very sharp for chopping rye
for distillation; and the miller ought to be careful not to draw more
water on the wheel than just sufficient to do it well, and avoid feeding
the stones plentifully; because in drawing a plentiful supply of water,
the wheel will compel a too rapid movement of the stones, of course
render it necessary they should be more abundantly fed, which causes
part to be ground dead, or too fine, whilst part thereof will be too
coarse, and not sufficiently broken, so that a difficulty arises in
scalding--for in this state it will not scald equally, and of
consequence, the fermentation cannot be so good or regular; and
moreover as part of it will merely be flattened, a greater difficulty
will arise in breaking the lumps, when you mash and stir your hogsheads.
If burr stones are very sharp, I recommend the rye to be chopped very
fine, but to guard against over-seeding, or pressing too much on them;
but if the stones are not sharp, I would recommend the rye should be
chopped about half fine. Distillers in general sustain a loss from
having their rye chopped so coarse as I have observed it done in common.


ART. III.

_Chopping or Grinding Indian Corn._

Indian corn cannot be ground too fine for distilling.


ART. IV.

_Malt_

Cannot be ground too coarse, provided it is done even--there ought to be
no fine nor coarse grains in malt, but ground perfectly alike, and of
the same grade. If ground too fine, it will be apt to be scalded too
much in mashing. Malt does not require half the scalding necessary in
rye. Let the distiller try the experiment of coarse and then of fine
ground malt and judge for himself.


ART. V.

_How to choose Malt._

Malt is chosen by its sweet smell, mellow taste, full flower, round body
and thin skin. There are two kinds used, the pale and the brown--the
pale is the best.


ART. VI.

_How to build a Malt kiln in every Distillery._

When setting up your stills, leave a space of about nine inches for a
small furnace between the large ones, extend it to your chimney and
carry up a funnel, there-from to the loft, then stop it--here build the
kiln on the loft, about 4 or 5 feet square, the walls to be composed of
single brick, 3 feet high--lay the bottom with brick, cover it with a
plaster of mortar, to prevent the floor from taking fire. Turn the
funnel of the chimney into, and extend it to the centre of the kiln,
cover the top, leaving vent holes at the sides for the heat to escape
thro'--Place on the top of the kiln, sheet iron or tin punched full of
small holes, too small to admit the passage of malt; lay the malt on the
top of the tin, when ready for drying. Put coals from under the still
furnace into the small furnace leading to the kiln, which will heat the
kiln and dry the malt above, by adding to or diminishing the quantity of
coals, the heat may be increased or decreased, as may be found
necessary. Malt for distilling ought to be dried without smoke.


ART. VII.

_Hops._

Give a preference to hops of a bright green colour, sweet smell, and
have a gummy or clammy effect when rubbed between the hands or fingers.




SECTION V.


ARTICLE I.

_How to order and fill the Singling still when distilling Rye._

Scrape, clean, and grease the singling still, fill her up with beer, and
keep a good fire under her, till she be warm enough to head, stirring
her constantly with a broom, to prevent the grain from sticking to the
bottom or sides, and burning, which it is very apt to do when the beer
is cold, but when it comes to boil there is little danger, prevented by
the motion of boiling; have the head washed clean--when she is ready for
the head, clap it on and paste it; keep up a brisk fire, until she
begins to drop from the worm, then put in the damper in the chimney, and
if the fire be very strong, moderate it a little, by throwing ashes or
water on it, to prevent her throwing the head, which she will be very
apt to do if very full, and coming round under a strong fire, (should
the head come, or be thrown off, the spirit remaining will scarcely be
worth running off). When fairly round and running moderately, watch her
for half an hour; after which, unless the fire is very strong all danger
is over.

Should she happen to throw the head, it is the duty of the distiller to
take and (wash the head and worm--the latter will be found full of
stuff) clean, clap on the head, and paste it--but the moment the head is
thrown off, the fire should be drowned out, and water thrown into the
still to prevent her boiling over.

It is important that after every run, or rather before you commence a
run, the distiller should carefully clean out the still, wipe the
bottom dry, and grease her well, to prevent her from burning and
singeing the liquor.


ART. II.

_Mode of managing the doubling Still when making Whiskey._

Let the doubling still be carefully cleaned and washed out, then be
filled with singlings and low wines left from the run preceding, add
thereto half a pint of salt and one quart of clean ashes, which will
help to clear the whiskey, and a handful of Indian meal to prevent the
still from leaking at the cock, or elsewhere--clean the head and worm,
put on the head, paste it well; put fire under and bring her round
slowly, and run the spirit off as slow as possible, and preserve the
water in the cooling tub as cold as in your power.

Let the liquor as it runs from the worm pass thro' a flannel to prevent
the overjuice from the copper, and the oil of the grain from mixing with
the spirit. The first being poisonous, and the latter injurious to the
liquor.

The doubling still cannot be run too slow for making good whiskey ...
observe when the proof leaves the worm, that is when there is no proof
on the liquor as it comes from the worm, if there be ten gallons in your
doubling keg, if so, run out three more, which will make in all thirteen
gallons first proof whiskey. If the proof leaves the worm at eight
gallons, then run till eleven gallons and so on in proportion, to the
larger or smaller quantity in your keg at the time of the ceasing of the
proof.


ART. III.

_Observations on the advantages of making strong and good Whiskey with
stalement, &c._

The distiller who makes whiskey for a market under the government of
inspection laws, too weak, sustains a loss of a cent for each degree it
may be under proof ... and the disadvantages are increased in proportion
to the extent of land carriage. If a distance of seventy miles, the
price of carriage per gallon will be about six cents, paying the same
price for weak or strong ... not only the disadvantage of paying for the
carriage of feints or water, but the loss in the casks, which tho' small
apparently at first view, yet if nicely attended to, will amount in the
course of the year to a sum of moment to every distiller or proprietor.
To convey my ideas, or render a more compleat exposition of my
impressions as to the actual loss on one waggon load (predicated on a
distance of seventy miles land carriage) of first proof whiskey, and
that nine degrees under proof. I give the following statement.

300 _gallons good first proof
whiskey at_ 50 _cents_,            $ 150
_haling at six cents_,                18
                                   ________
                                   $ 132 00

300 _gallons whiskey nine
degrees under proof at_ 41
_cents_,                           $ 123
_haling_                              18
                                   ________
                                   $ 105 00
                                   ________
                       difference   $ 27 00

This difference of twenty-seven dollars in favor of the distiller, who
sends first proof whiskey, is not the only advantage, but he saves in
barrels or casks, what will contain fifty four gallons, nearly two
barrels; which together with the time saved, or gained in running good
whiskey only, of filling and measuring it out, loading, &c. will leave
an advantage of I presume, three dollars in each load. Or to verify
more satisfactorily, and I hope my readers will not think me too prolix,
as economy cannot be too much attended to in this business, I add a
statement predicated on a year's work, and on the foregoing principles:

_The distiller of weak whiskey, in twelve months,
or one year, distils at the rate of_ 100 _gallons
per week, or say in the year, he prepares for a market
at the above distance,_ 5000 _gallons,
which ought to command_                                   $ 2,500

_But he sustains a loss or deduction of_ 9 _cents_,           450

_Then the first loss may safely be computed at_           $   450

150 _empty barrels necessary to contain_ 5000 _gallons,
at_ 33-1/3 _gallons to the barrel, estimating the barrel
at 7s and 6d, is_                                         $   150

_This quantity of whiskey, when reduced to proof, is
4,100 gals. which would have occupied only 123 barrels_,      123

                                                             -------
                                                               27

_Then the second loss may be estimated at_                $    27

_He ought to have made this quantity of_ 4100
_gallons in nine months and three weeks, but we will say
10 months, sustaining a loss of two months in the year._

_3d item of loss. Hire of distiller for 2 months at_ $12         24 00

_4th do. Rent of distillery do. at £15 per annum._                6 66

_5th do. One sixth of the wood consumed, (at the rate of
100 cords per annum,) 16 cords_,                                 20 00

_6th do. One sixth of the Malt, do. say 90 bushels_,             90 00

_7th do. Is the wear and tear of stills, vessels, &c._
                                                                 12 34
                                                               -------
                                                              $ 630

Showing hereby a total annual loss to the careless distiller, of six
hundred and thirty dollars, and a weekly loss of twelve dollars and
three cents in the whiskey of nine degrees below proof--our ninth part
of which is seventy dollars, which is the sum of loss sustained on each
degree in this quantity of whiskey.

The foregoing I flatter myself will not only show the necessity of care,
cleanliness, industry and judgment, in the business of distilling; a
business professed to be known, by almost every body--but in reality
quite a science, and so abstruse as to be but too imperfectly
understood; and moreover, the value of time, so inestimable in itself,
the economy of which is so rarely attended to.


ART. IV.

_Distilling of Buckwheat._

Buckwheat is an unprofitable grain for the distillers when distilled by
itself, but when mixed with rye, it will yield nearly as much as rye;
but I would by no means recommend the use of it when it can be avoided.
Tho' sometimes necessity requires that a distiller should mash it for a
day or two, when any thing is the matter, or that grain cannot be
procured. In such event, the directions for distilling rye, or rye and
corn may be followed, but it requires a much larger quantity of boiling
water and if distilled by itself; it is necessary some wheat bran be
mixed with it to raise it to the top of the hogshead: but by no means
use buckwheat meal in making yeast.


ART. V.

_Distilling of Potatoes._

This is a branch of distilling that I cannot too highly recommend to the
attention of every American--nor can the cultivation of this valuable
vegetable be carried to a too great extent, the value of which ought to
be known to every planter and it some times has awakened my surprise
that they are not more cultivated, as it is notorious that they will
sustain, and be a tolerable food for every thing possessing life on this
earth--and as they produce a brandy, if properly made, of fine flavour.
I hope yet to see the day when it will take precedence of French brandy
and West-India spirits, and thereby retain in our own country, the
immense sums at present expended on those foreign liquors; which, tho'
benefitted by the sea voyage, yet often reaches us in a most
pernicious state, and is frequently adulterated here.

Could the American farmer be brought to raise a larger quantity of
potatoes than necessary for his consumption at home, the price would be
lowered, and the distiller might commence the distillation of them with
greater propriety. That they contain a great deal and a very good
spirit, I am certain, and moreover, after distillation will yield as
great a quantity of good wholesome food for cattle or hogs, as rye or
any other grain. If distillers could be brought to try the experiment of
distilling ten or twelve bushels annually, I venture to predict that it
would soon become a source of profit to themselves, encouragement to the
farmer, and be of benefit to our country at large.

One acre of ground, if well farmed, will produce from fifty to one
hundred bushels of potatoes, but say sixty on an average. One hundred
farmers each planting one acre, would yield six thousand bushels, which
will yield at least two gallons of spirit to each bushel; thus, twelve
thousand gallons of wholesome spirit may be produced, and with care, as
good as necessary to be drank. Each farmer proceeding in this way, would
have one hundred and twenty gallons spirit, as much as he may have
occasion to use in the year, which would save the price of some acres
of wheat or one hundred and twenty gallons rye whiskey. Each acre worked
in potatoes will be in better order to receive a crop of wheat, barley,
rye, or any kind of grain, than from any other culture. The farmer often
receiving the advantage of a double crop, at the expense of seed and
labor. They grow equally well in every soil and climate, in poor as well
as rich ground--provided the thin soil be manured, and the potatoes
plastered with plaster of Paris; and moreover, they are easier prepared
for distilling than either apples, rye or corn, as I shall show
hereafter when I come to treat of the mode of preparation; and in order
to demonstrate the advantages that would arise to the farmer and
distiller; I add a statement of the probable profits of ten acres of
potatoes, and that of a like number of acres of rye, to shew which
offers the greatest advantages.


                    _Potatoes_          DR.

_Ten acres at_ 60 _bushels is_
600 _bushels at_ 33 _cents_            $ 198 00

                       _Rye._

_Ten acres of Rye, at_ 30
_bushels per acre, is_ 300
_bushels at_ 60 _cents_                $ 180 00


               CR.
600 _bushels yielding_ 2 _gallons
to the bushel,_ 1200
_gallons at_ 50 _cents_                  600
                                       -----
                                       $ 402

               CR.
300 _bushels yielding_ 3 _gallons
to the bushel_, 900
_gallons at_ 50 _cents_                  450
                                       -----
                                       $ 270

_Balance in favor of Potatoes_         $ 132


Thus a balance of one hundred and thirty two dollars would appear in
favor of the yield of potatoes.

I would not pretend to say that ten acres of Potatoes will not take more
labor than ten acres of rye, but this far I will venture to say, that
the profits arising from the sale of this brandy, will more than double
pay the additional expense of raising them, besides the ground will be
in much better condition to receive a crop of wheat, than the rye
ground, nay, will be enriched from the crop, whilst the rye ground will
be greatly impoverished.


ART. VI.

_Receipt to prepare Potatoes for Distilling._

Wash them clean, and grind them in an apple mill, and if there be no
apple mill convenient, they may be scalded and then pounded--then put
two or three bushels into a hogshead and fill the hogshead nearly full
of boiling water, and stir it well for half an hour, then cover it close
until the potatoes are scalded quite soft, then stir them often until
they are quite cold--then put into each hogshead about two quarts of
good yeast and let them ferment, which will require eight or ten
days--the beer then may be drawn off and distilled, or put the pulp and
all into the still, and distill them as you do apples. I have known
potatoes distilled in this way to yield upwards of three gallons to the
bushel.


ART. VII.

_Pumpions_

May be prepared by the same process used in preparing potatoes, with the
exception of not scalding them so high, nor do they require so much
yeast.


ART. VIII.

_Turnips_

Will produce nearly as much spirit as potatoes, but not so good. They
must be prepared in the same manner.


ART. IX.

_How to distil Apples._

Apples ought to be perfectly ripe for distillation, as it has been
ascertained from repeated trials, that they produce more and better
spirit, (as well as cider), when fully ripe than if taken green, or the
ripe and unripe mixed--if taken mixed it will not be found practicable
to grind them evenly, or equally fine; those fully ripe will be well
ground, whilst those hard and unripe will be little more than broken or
slightly bruised--and when this coarse and fine mixture is put into a
hogshead to work or ferment, that fully ripe and fine ground, will
immediately begin, and will be nearly if not quite done working before
the other begins, and of course nearly all the spirit contained in the
unripe fruit will be lost--and if it is left standing until the ill
ground unripe fruit is thoroughly fermented, and done working, you will
perceive that a large portion of the spirit contained in the ripe well
ground fruit is evaporated and of course lost.

But if the fruit be all ripe and evenly ground, of course then it will
work regularly and can be distilled in due and right order, and will
produce the greatest quantity of spirit, and much superior to that
produced from uneven, ill-ground or unripe fruit.

Apples cannot be ground too fine.


ART. X.

_How to order Apples in the Hogsheads._

When the apples are ground put them into open hogsheads to ferment,
taking care not to fill them too full, or they will work over; set them
under cover, as the sun will sour them too soon, if permitted to operate
on them, and by his heat extract a considerable quantity of the spirit,
if the weather be warm they will work fast enough, provided you have a
sufficient supply of hogsheads to keep your stills agoing in due time
and order; about twenty hogsheads are sufficient to keep one singling
still of one hundred and ten gallons agoing, if you distil the pumice
with the juice, but if you press off the apples after they are done
working, you must have three times that number.

In warm weather five or six days is long enough for apples to work, as
it is always better to distil them before they are quite done working,
then to let them stand one hour after the fermentation ceases.


ART. XI.

_How to work Apples slow or fast._

If the hogsheads ripens too fast for your stills, add every day to each
hogshead four gallons cold spring water, putting it into a hole made in
the centre of the apples, with a large round stick of wood; by thus
putting it into the centre of the hogshead, it will chill the
fermentation, and thereby prevent the fruit from becoming ripe sooner
than it may suit the convenience of the distiller. But I think it
advisable that distillers should take in no more apples than they can
properly manage in due time.

If the weather be cold, and the apples do not ripen so fast as you wish,
then add every twelve hours, four gallons boiling, or warm water, which
will ripen them if the weather be not too cold in four days at farthest.


ART. XII.

_How to judge when Apples are ready for distilling._

Put your hand down into the hogsheads amongst the apples as far as you
can, and bring out a handful of pugs--squeeze them in your hand, through
your fingers, observe if there be any core, or lumps of apples
un-digested, if none, you may consider them as sufficiently fermented
and quite ready for distilling. It may also be ascertained by tasting
and smelling the cider or juice, which rises in the hole placed in the
centre; if it tastes sweet and smells strong, it is not yet ready, but
when quite fermented, the taste will be sour, and smell strong, which is
the proper taste for distilling. A nice discriminating attention is
necessary to ascertain precisely, when the fermentation ceases, which is
the proper moment for distillation, and I would recommend, rather to
anticipate, than delay one hour after this period.


ART. XIII.

_How to fill and order the singling Still, when running Apple
singlings._

When you perceive your apples ready for distilling, fill the singling
still with apples and water; using about half a hogshead apples in a
still of 110 gallons, the residue water, first having cleaned the still
well, and greased her previous to filling--put fire under her and bring
her ready to head, as quick as possible, stirring the contents well with
a broom until ready to head, of which you can judge by the warmth of the
apples and water, which must be rather warm to bear your hand in it any
length of time. Wash the still head and worm clean, put on the head,
paste it, keeping a good fire until she runs at the worm; run off 14
gallons briskly, and catch the feints in a bucket to throw into the next
still full, if the singling still too fast, provided she does not smoke
at the worm. When the first still full is off, and before you go to fill
her the second time, draw or spread the coals that may be under her, in
the furnace, and fill the furnace with wood. Shut up your furnace door
and put in your damper; by proceeding thus, you cool the still and avoid
burning her; this plan I deem preferable to watering out the fire. When
empty, rinse the still round with cold water, scrape and grease her,
then she will be ready to receive a second charge.

Care is necessary in scraping and greasing your still every time she is
emptied, if this is neglected, the brandy may be burnt and the still
injured.


ART. XIV.

_How to double Apple Brandy._

Fill the doubling still with singlings, and add a quart of lime, (which
will clear it) put fire under her and bring her to a run briskly--after
she runs, lessen the fire and run her as slow as possible. Slow running
will prevent any of the spirit from escaping, and make more and better
brandy, than fast running.--Let the liquor filter thro a flannel cloth
from the worm.


ART. XV.

_How to prepare Peaches._

Peaches like apples ought to be equally ripe, in order to insure an
equal and regular fermentation--for where ripe and unripe fruit are
thrown into the same hogshead, and ordered for distillation in this way
a disadvantage is sustained. I therefore recommend to farmers and
distillers, when picking the peaches to assort them when putting them in
hogsheads, all soft ripe peaches may go together, as also those which
are hard and less ripe--this will enable a more regular fermentation,
and though the hard and less ripe, will take a longer time, than the
soft and ripe to ferment, and yield less, yet the disadvantage will not
be so great, as if mixed.

They ought to be ground in a mill with metal nuts, that the stone and
kernel may be well broken. The kernel when thus broken will give a
finer flavor to the brandy, and increase the quantity.

When they are ground they must be placed in hogsheads and worked in the
same way with apples, but distilled sooner or they will lose much more
spirit by standing any time after fermentation than apples. It is
therefore better to distil them a short time before they are done
working than at any period after.


ART. XVI.

_How to double and single Peach Brandy._

The same process must be observed in running off peaches as in apples,
except that the singling still ought not to be run so fast, nor so much
fire kept under her, and more water used to prevent burning.




SECTION VI.


ARTICLE I.

_The best method of setting Stills._

If stills are not set right, great injury may accrue to them, in burning
and damaging the sides, singeing the whiskey, and wasting of fuel too,
are not the only disadvantages; but more damage may be done in six
months, than would pay a man of judgment for putting up twenty pair.

If they are set with their bottoms to the fire, they are very apt to
burn, without the utmost care of the distiller, in stirring her when
newly filled with cold beer, until she is warm, and by previously
greasing the bottom well when empty. If wood be plenty, stills ought to
be set on an arch, but if scarce, the bottom ought to be set to the
fire. The following method is calculated for a furnace of either two or
four feet long, and with the bottoms exposed, or on an arch as the
distiller may fancy.

Make up a quantity of well worked mortar, composed of the greater
proportion of good clay, a little lime and cut straw.

Lay the bottom of the furnace with flag stones, or good brick, from two
to four feet long, as may be deemed most proper, let it be from twelve
to sixteen inches wide, and from twelve to fourteen high. Then if it is
designed to turn an arch, set the end of a brick on each wall of the
furnace, leaning them over the furnace, till they meet in the middle--so
continue the range on each side, until the furnace is completely covered
in, leaving a small hole for the flue leading to the chimney behind,
leaning towards the side, from which the flue is to be started, to
proceed round the bilge of the still, which passage must be ten by four
inches wide.

After completing the arch as described, lay thereon a complete bed of
mortar, well mixed with cut straw, set the still thereon, levelling her
so that she will nearly empty her self by the stoop towards the cock;
then fill up all round her with mortar to the lower rivets, carefully
preventing any stone or brick from touching her, (as they would tend to
burn her) ... then build the fender or fenders; being a wall composed of
brickbats and clay well mixed with cut straw, build it from the
commencement of the flue, and continue it about half round the still ...
this is to prevent the flames from striking the still sides, in its hot
state, immediately after it leaves the furnace, presuming that it will
terminate before it reaches the end of this little wall or fender,
between which, and the still, a space of two inches ought to be left for
the action of the heat, which space preserves, and prevents the wall or
fender, from burning the still; the mode in common practice, being to
place it against the still, which will certainly singe or burn her. When
this defender is finished, commence a wall, which continue round, laying
a brick for a foundation, about four inches from the lower rivets; thus
raising this wall for the flue, continuing it at an equal distance from
the still, leaving a concave to correspond with the bilge of the still,
and to be of precisely the same width and height all round the still.
This precaution is absolutely necessary in building the wall of the flue
exactly to correspond with the form of the still, and equally distant
all round, for reasons 1st. The fire acts with equal force on every part
of the still, and a greater heat may be applied to her, without burning.
2d. It has a great tendency to prevent the still house from smoking.

When the wall of the flue is completed round the still, and raised so
high, that a brick when laid on the top of the wall will extend to the
rivets in the breast of the still or upper rivets, then completely
plaster very smooth and even, the inside of the flue, and then cover the
flue with a layer of brick, with a slight fall, or leaning a little from
the still outwards, so that if water were dropped thereon, it would run
off outwardly, carefully laying a layer of clay on the top of the wall,
on which the brick may rest, and thereby prevent the brick from burning
the still; carefully forming the brick with the trowel, so as to fit the
wall and rest more safely--cautiously covering them well with clay, &c.
and closing every crevice or aperture, to prevent smoak from coming
thro' or the heat from deserting the flue till it passes to the chimney
from the flue; then fill the still with water, and put a flow fire under
her to dry the work. When the wall begins to dry, lay on a coat of
mortar, (such as the next receipt directs), about two inches thick, when
this begins to dry, lay a white coat of lime and sand-mortar, smoothing
well with a trowel; rubbing it constantly and pressing it severely with
the trowel to prevent it from cracking.

There are many modes of setting stills and bringing the fire up by flues
variously constructed, but I have found the foregoing plan to afford as
great a saving of fuel, and bringing the still to a boil as early as any
other.


ART. II.

_How to prevent the Plastering round Stills from cracking._

This method of making water proof plastering on stills, is done entirely
in making the mortar, and putting it on, in making which, good clay and
lime are absolutely necessary.

When the mortar for the first coat is thoroughly worked, put as much
brock of rye straw into it, as can be worked in, so that when the coat
is put on, it may have a greater appearance of straw than mortar, when
dry, and covered with the second coat composed of lime mortar, well
rubbed and pressed with the trowel until it be dry. A covering put on of
those materials, will be found to continue firm and compact without
cracking, as in the common mode.

_The best method of boiling two, three or more Stills or Kettles with
one fire or furnace._

This method has been found to answer in some instances, and may perhaps
do generally if properly managed. I will here give the result of my own
experiments.

I set a singling still holding 180 gallons on a furnace of 18 by 14
inches, and 4 feet six inches long, with the bottom to the fire, she had
a common head and worm with scrapers and chains in her. I extended the
flue, (or after passing it round her), to the doubling still which it
likewise went round--but to prevent too much heat from passing to the
doubling still, I fixed a shutter in the flue of the singling still,
immediately above the intersection of the flue of the doubling still, to
turn all the heat round her, and another shutter in the flue of the
doubling still at the intersection of the flue of the singling still, to
shut the heat off from the doubling still if necessary.

With this fixture I run six hogsheads off in every twenty four hours and
doubled the same, with the same heat and fire. I likewise had a boiler
under which I kept another fire, which two fires consumed about three
cords and an half of wood per week, distilling at the rate of sixty-five
bushels of grain per week, and making about one hundred and ninety
gallons in the same time.

Before I adopted this method I kept four fires agoing, and made about
the same quantity of whiskey, consuming about four and an half cords of
wood per week, and was obliged to have the assistance of an additional
distiller per week.

I have since heard of the adoption of this plan with more success than I
experienced.


ART. III.

_To set a doubling Still._

As spirits can hardly be burned or singed in a doubling still, if not
before done in singling, all the precaution necessary is to set them in
the best method for saving fuel, and preserving the still. The
instructions given for setting a singling still, is presumed to be
adequate to setting a doubling still.

_How to prevent the singling Still from burning._

If the singling still be well set, and is carefully greased with a piece
of bacon, tallow or hard soap, every time she is filled, she will seldom
burn, but if she does burn or singe notwithstanding these precautions,
it will be advisable to take her down and set her up a new ten times,
rather than have her burned.




SECTION VII.


ARTICLE I.

_How to clarify Whiskey, &c._

Take any vessel of convenient size, take one end out and make it clean,
by scalding or otherwise; bore the bottom full of holes, a quarter of an
inch in diameter--lay thereon three folds of flannel, over which spread
ground maple charcoal and burnt brick-dust, made to the consistence of
mortar, with whiskey, about two inches thick, pour your whiskey or
brandy thereon, and let it filter thro' the charcoal, flannel, &c. after
which you will find the spirit to have scarcely any taste or smell of
whiskey.--Elevate the filtering cask so as to leave room to place a
vessel to receive the spirit under it.


ART. II.

_How to make a Brandy resembling French Brandy, from Rye Whiskey or
Apple Brandy._

Clarify the whiskey as the above receipt directs, after thus purifying,
add one third or one fourth of French brandy, and it will be then found
strongly to resemble the French brandy in taste and smell--and if kept a
few years, will be found more salutary and healthful than French brandy
alone. This mode of clarifying rids the spirit of any unpleasant
flavour received in the process of distillation or from bad materials,
and moreover, from all those vicious, poisonous properties contracted in
the still or worm from copper; such as foetid oil from the malt, which
frequently unites with the verdigris, and combines so effectually with
whiskey, that it may possible require a frequent repetition of this mode
of clarifying, to rid it completely of any unpleasant taste or property
contracted as above stated.


ART. III.

_How to make a Spirit resemble Jamaica Spirit out of Rye Whiskey._

This is done precisely in the manner laid down in the receipt for French
brandy.


ART. IV.

_How to make a resemblance of Holland Gin out of Rye Whiskey._

Put clarified whiskey, with an equal quantity of water, into your
doubling still, together with a sufficient quantity of juniper berries,
prepared; take a pound of unflacked lime, immerse it in three pints of
water, stir it well--then let it stand three hours, until the lime sinks
to the bottom, then pour off the clear lime water, with which boil half
an ounce of isinglass cut small, until the latter is dissolved--then
pour it into your doubling still with a handful of hops, and a handful
of common salt, put on the head and set her a running; when she begins
to run, take the first half gallon (which is not so good), and reserve
it for the next still you fill--as the first shot generally contains
something that will give an unpleasant taste and colour to the gin. When
it looses proof at the worm, take the keg away that contains the gin,
and bring it down to a proper strength with rain water, which must
previously have been prepared, by having been evaporated and condensed
in the doubling still and cooling tub.

This gin when fined, and two years old, will be equal, if not superior
to Holland gin.

The isinglass, lime water and salt, helps to refine it in the still, and
the juniper berries gives the flavor or taste of Holland gin.

About thirteen pounds of good berries, are sufficient for one barrel.

Be careful to let the gin as it runs from the worm, pass thro' a flannel
cloth, which will prevent many unpleasant particles from passing into
the liquor, which are contracted in the condensation, and the overjuice
imbibed in its passage thro' the worm.


ART. V.

_The best method of making common country Gin._

Take of singlings a sufficient quantity to fill the doubling still, put
therein ten or twelve pounds of juniper berries, with one shovel full of
ashes, and two ounces alum--put on the bead, and run her off, as is
done in making whiskey. This is the common mode of making country gin;
but is in this state little superior to whiskey, save as to smell and
flavor.

It is therefore in my mind, that the mode of clarifying, prescribed,
ought to be pursued in all distilleries, so far as necessary to make a
sufficient quantity of good spirit for any market convenient--the supply
of respectable neighbors, who may prefer giving a trifle more per
gallon, than for common stuff and for domestic use. And moreover, I
think the distiller will meet a generous price for such clarified, and
pure spirit, as he may send to a large mercantile town for sale--as
brewers and others, frequently desire such for mixing, brewing, making
brandies in the French and Spanish mode, and spirits after the Jamaica
custom. And after the establishment of a filtering tub or hopper,
prepared as before described, with holes, flannel or woollen cloth, and
plenty of maple charcoal, and burnt brick-dust, a distiller may always
find leisure to attend to the filtration; indeed it will be found as
simple and easy, as the process for making ley from ashes in the country
for soap. But I would suggest that spirit prepared and clarified in this
way, should be put into the sweetest and perfectly pure casks.

New barrels will most certainly impart color, and perhaps some taste,
which would injure the sale, if intended for a commercial town market,
and for brewing, or mixing with spirits, from which it is to receive its
flavor.

For my own use, I would put this spirit into a nice sweet cask, and to
each barrel I would add a pint of regularly, and well browned wheat, not
burned but roasted as much as coffee.

The taste of peach brandy may be imparted to it by a quantity of peach
stone kernels, dried, pounded and stirred into the cask; in this way,
those who are fond of the peach brandy flavor, may drink it without
becoming subject to the pernicious consequences that arise from the
constant use of peach brandy. Peach brandy, unless cleansed of its gross
and cloying properties, or is suffered to acquire some years of age, has
a cloying effect on the stomach, which it vitiates, by destroying the
effect of the salival and gastric juices, which have an effect on
aliment, similar to that of yeast on bread, and by its singular
properties prevents those juices from the performance of their usual
functions in the fermentation of the food taken into the
stomach--producing acid and acrimonious matter, which in warm climates
generates fevers and agues. Apple brandy has not quite a similar but
equally pernicious effect, which age generally removes--indeed, age
renders it a very fine liquor, and when diluted with water, makes a very
happy beverage, gives life and animation to the digesting powers, and
rarely leaves the stomach heavy, languid and cloyed. Then both those,
(indeed, all liquors,) ought to be avoided when new, by persons of
delicate habit, and those who do not exercise freely. A severe exercise
and rough life, generally enables the stomach to digest the most coarse
food, by liquor, however new.

_On fining Liquors._

Isinglass is almost universally used in fining liquors. Take about half
an ounce to the barrel--beat it fine with a hammer, lay it in a
convenient vessel, pour thereon two gallons whiskey, or a like quantity
of the liquor you are about to fine, let it soak two or three days, or
till it becomes soft enough to mix--then stir it effectually, and add
the white and shells of half a dozen eggs--beat them up together and
pour them into the cask that is to be fined, then stir it in the cask,
bung it slightly, after standing three or four days it will be
sufficiently fine, and may be drawn off into a clean cask.


ART. VI.

_On colouring Liquors._

One pound of brown sugar burnt in a skillet almost to a cinder, add a
quart of water, which when stirred, will dissolve the sugar--when
dissolved, this quantity will color three barrels.

A pint of well parched wheat put into a barrel will colour it, and give
more the appearance of a naturally acquired colour, and an aged taste or
flavor.


ART. VII.

_To correct the taste of singed Whiskey._

Altho' this cannot be done effectually without clarifying, as
prescribed, but Bohea tea will in a great measure correct a slight
singe--a quarter of a pound may be tried to the barrel.


ART. VIII.

_To give an aged flavor to Whiskey._

This process ought to be attended to by every distiller, and with all
whiskey, and if carefully done, would raise the character, and add to
the wholesomeness of domestic spirits.

It may be done by clarifying the singlings as it runs from the
still--let the funnel be a little broader than usual, cover it with two
or more layers of flannel, on which place a quantity of finely beaten
maple charcoal, thro' which let the singlings filter into your usual
receiving cask. When doubling, put some lime and charcoal in the still,
and run the liquor thro' a flannel--when it loses proof at the worm,
take away the cask, and bring it to proof with rain water that has been
distilled. To each hogshead of whiskey, use a pound of Bohea tea, and
set it in the sun for two weeks or more, then remove it to a cool
cellar, and when cold it will have the taste and flavor of old whiskey.
If this method was pursued by distillers and spirits made 2d and 3d
proof, it would not only benefit the seller, but would be an advantage
to the buyer and consumer--and was any particular distiller to pursue
this mode and brand his casks, it would raise the character of his
liquor, and give it such an ascendancy as to preclude the sale of any
other, beyond what scarcity or an emergency might impel in a commercial
city.

If distillers could conveniently place their liquor in a high loft, and
suffer it to fall to the cellar by a pipe, it would be greatly improved
by the friction and ebullition occasioned in the descent and fall.




SECTION VIII.


ARTICLE I.

_Observations on Weather._

Some seasons are better for fermentation than others. Should a hail
storm occur in the summer, the distiller should guard against cooling
off with water in which hail is dissolved, for it will not work well.

If a thundergust happens when the hogsheads are in the highest state of
fermentation, the working will nearly cease, and the stuff begin to
contract an acidity. And when in the spring the frost is coming out of
the ground, it is unfortunate when the distiller is obliged to use water
impregnated with the fusions of the frost, such being very injurious to
fermentation--Those changes and occurrences ought to be marked well, to
enable a provision against their effects. This will be found difficult
without the assistance of a barometer, to determine the changes of the
weather--a thermometer, to ascertain correctly the heat of the
atmosphere, and to enable a medium and temperature of the air to be kept
up in the distillery; and from observation to acquire a knowledge of the
degree of heat or warmth, in which the mashing in the hogsheads ferments
to the greatest advantage, and when this is ascertained, a distiller may
in a close house sufficiently ventilated, and provided with convenient
windows, always keep up the degree or temperature in the air, most
adapted to the promotion of fermentation, by opening his windows or
doors to admit air, as a corrective; or by keeping them closed in
proportion to the coldness of the weather:--And a hydrometer, useful in
measuring and ascertaining the extent of water. Instructions for the
management of those instruments generally attend them, it is therefore
unnecessary for me to go into a detail on this subject.--But it is
absolutely necessary that the careful and scientific distiller should
possess them, especially the two former, to guard against the changes of
the weather, and preserve the atmosphere in the distillery, always
equally warm.


ART. II.

_Observations on Water._

Distillers cannot be too particular in selecting good water for
distilling, when about to erect distilleries.

Any water will do for the use of the condensing tubs or coolers, but
there are many kinds of water that will not answer the purpose of
mashing or fermenting to advantage; among which are snow and limestone
water, either of which possess such properties, as to require one fifth
more of grain to yield the same quantity of liquor, that would be
produced while using river water.

Any water will answer the distillers purpose, that will dissolve soap,
or will wash well with soap, or make a good lather for shaving.

River or creek water is the best for distilling except when mixed with
snow or land water from clay or ploughed ground. If no river or creek
water can be procured, that from a pond, supplied by a spring, if the
bottom be not very muddy will do, as the exposure to the sun, will
generally have corrected those properties inimical to fermentation. Very
hard water drawn from a deep well, and thrown into a cistern, or
reservoir and exposed to the sun and air for two or three days, has been
used in mashing with success, with a small addition of chop grain or
malt. I consider rain water as next in order to that from the river, for
mashing and fermentation. Mountain, slate, gravel and running water, are
all preferable to limestone, unless impregnated with minerals--many of
which are utterly at variance with fermentation. With few exceptions, I
have found limestone, and all spring water too hard for mashing,
scalding or fermenting.


ART. III.

_Precautions against Fire_

Cannot be too closely attended to. The store house, or cellar for
keeping whiskey in, ought to be some distance from the distillery, and
the liquor deposited, and all work necessary in it done by day, to avoid
all possible danger arising from candles or lamps, from which many
serious calamities have occurred. Suppose the cellar or place of deposit
to be entered at night by a person carrying a lamp or candle, and a
leaking cask takes his attention, in correcting the leak, he may set his
lamp on the ground covered with whiskey, or he may drop by chance one
drop of burning oil on a small stream of whiskey, which will communicate
like gun powder, and may cause an explosion, which may in all likelihood
destroy the stock on hand, the house, and the life of the
individual.--On this subject it is not necessary I should say much, as
every individual employed about a distillery must have some knowledge of
the value of life and property.




SECTION IX.


ARTICLE I.

_The duty of the owner of a Distillery._

The main and first object of the proprietor of a distillery, is gain or
profit--and the second, it is natural, should be the acquiring a
character or reputation for his liquor, and a desire to excel
neighboring distilleries--in both of which, neglect and sloth will
insure disappointment.

The active, cleanly, industrious and attentive proprietor uses the
following means.

First. He provides his distillery with good sound grain, hogsheads,
barrels, kegs, funnels, brooms, malt, hops, wood, &c. of all of which he
has in plenty, nicely handled, and in good order. He also provides an
hydrometer, thermometer, and particularly a barometer, duly observing
the instructions accompanying each, their utility and particular uses.

Secondly. He is careful that his distiller does his duty, of which he
can be assured only, by rising at four o'clock, winter and summer, to
see if the distiller is up and at his business, and that every thing is
going well--and to prepare every thing and article necessary--to attend
and see the hogs fed, and that the potale or slop be cold when given,
and that the cattle be slopped--that the stills are not burning, nor the
casks leaking, &c. &c. He observes the barometer, points out any changes
in the weather, and pays an unremitted attention, seeing that all things
are in perfect order, and enforcing any changes he may deem necessary.

On the other hand, indolence begets indolence--The proprietor who sleeps
till after sun rise, sets an example to his distiller and people, which
is too often followed--the distillery becomes cold from the want of a
regular fire being kept up in her--the hogsheads cease to work or
ferment, of consequence, they will not turn out so much whiskey--and
there is a general injury sustained. And it may often occur, that during
one, two or three days in the week, the distiller may want grain, wood,
malt, hops or some necessary--and perhaps all those things may be
wanting during the same day ... and of course, the distiller stands
idle. The cattle, hogs, &c. suffer; and from this irregular mode of
managing, I have known the proprietor to sink money, sink in reputation,
and rarely ever to attribute the effect to the right cause.


_System and Method._

A well timed observance of system and method are necessary in all the
various branches of business pursued, and without which none succeeds so
well.

And whilst the industrious, attentive and cleanly proprietor, may with
certainty, calculate on a handsome profit and certain advantages to
result from this business. He who conducts carelessly, may as certainly
reckon on sustaining a general loss.


ART. II.

_The duty of an hired Distiller_

Is to rise at four o'clock every morning. Wash and clean out the boiler,
fill her up with clean water, put fire under her, and to clean, fill and
put fire under the singling still--to collect and put in order for
mashing, his hogsheads--and as soon as the water is warm enough in the
boiler to begin mashing, which he ought to finish as early in the day as
possible; for when the mashing is done, he will have time to scald and
clean his vessels, to attend his doubling and singling still, to get in
wood for next day, and to make his stock yeast, if new yeast is wanting.
In short, the distiller ought to have his mashing finished by twelve
o'clock every day, to see and have every thing in the still house, under
his eye at the same time; but he ought never to attempt doing more than
one thing at once--a distiller ought never to be in a hurry, but always
busy. I have always remarked that the bustling unsteady distiller
attempts doing two or three things at once, and rarely ever has his
business in the same state of forwardness with the steady methodical
character.




SECTION X.


ARTICLE I.

_Profits of a Common Distillery._

Profits arising from a distillery with two common stills, one containing
110 gallons, and one containing 65 gallons that is well conducted for 10
months. The calculations predicated on a site, distant about 60 miles
from market. Due regard is paid to the rising and falling markets in the
following statement. The selling price of whiskey will always regulate
the price of grain, the distiller's wages, the prices of malt, hops,
hauling, &c. is rather above than below par.


_Distillery, Dr._

To 1077 bushels corn, at 50
cents per bushel, is             $ 538 50

533 bushels rye, at 60 cents       309 80

96 bushels malt, at 70 ditto        67 20
______

1706 bushels total.

60 pounds hops at 25 cents
per pound                           15

100 cords of wood, at 2 dollars    200

Distiller's wages per year and
boarding                           204 70

Hauling whiskey, at 4 cents
per gallon                         204 70

50 poor hogs at 4 dollars each     200
                                 ---------
                                 $ 1739 90

                              _Contra Cr._

By 5118 gallons whiskey, at
59 cents per gallon              $ 2559
50 fat hogs at 7 dollars each       350
                                 ---------
                                 $ 2939
                                 ---------
Leaving a balance of             $ 1143 10


I have charged nothing for hauling of grain, &c. as the feed or slop for
milk cows, young cattle, and fatting cattle, will more than pay that
expense.

An estimate of the profits arising from a patent distillery, (col.
Anderson's patent improved) 1 still of 110 with a patent head, 1 still
of 85 gallons for a doubling still, and a boiler of metal, holding 110
gallons.

_Distillery, Dr._


To 2454 bushels corn, at 50
  cents per bushel                 $ 1227
1216 do. rye, at 60 cents do.         729 60
200 do. malt at 70 cents do.          140
                                   ---------
                                     3870

120 pounds hops, at 25 cents
  per pound                            30
100 cords wood, at 2 dollars
  per cord                            200

2 distillers wages, boarding,
  &c.                                 400

Hauling whiskey, per gallon
  at 4 cents                          464 40

120 poor hogs at 4 dolls. each        480
                                     ________
Total expense                      $ 3671

                               _Contra, Cr._

By 11610 gallons whiskey, at
  50 cents per gallon              $ 5805 50

120 fat hogs, at 7 dolls. each        840
                                    _________
                                   $ 6645 50
                                    _________
Clear profit,                      $ 2974 50
Profit of a common distillery        1148 10
                                    _________
Balance in favor of a patent
  distillery                       $ 1826 40
                                    _________

To do the business of a patent distillery or to carry her on to
advantage, requires a little more capital to start with--but either the
patent or common distillery, when they have run two or three months,
managed by an attentive and brisk dealing man, will maintain, or keep
themselves agoing.

Where wood is scarce and money plenty, the patent distillery is
certainly to be recommended, indeed, in all cases, I would recommend it,
where the proprietor has money enough. It is by far the most profitable,
and will sooner or later become in general use in this country.


ART. III.

_Of Hogs._

Raising, feeding and fattening hogs on potale, a business pursued and
highly spoken of, but from my experience I have discovered that few good
pigs can be raised entirely on potale--as it has a tendency to gripe and
scour too much; but after they are weaned and a little used with slop,
they will thrive well.

If a hog in a cold morning comes running to a trough full of slop, that
is almost boiling, and is very hungry--their nature is so gluttonous &
voracious, that it will take several mouthfuls before it feels the
effects of the heat, and endangers the scalding of the mouth, throat and
entrails--and which may be followed by mortification and
death;--moreover, hot feeding is the cause of so many deaths, and
ill-looking unhealthy pigs, about some distilleries--which inconvenience
might be avoided by taking care to feed or fill the troughs before the
boiling slop is let out from the still.

A distiller cannot be too careful of his hogs--as with care, they will
be found the most productive stock he can raise--and without care
unproductive.

The offals of distilleries and mills cannot be more advantageously
appropriated than in raising of hogs--they are prolific, arrive at
maturity in a short period, always in demand. Pork generally sells for
more than beef, and the lard commands a higher price than tallow; of the
value of pork and every part of this animal, it is unnecessary for me to
enter into detail; of their great value and utility, almost every person
is well acquainted.

The hog pens and troughs ought to be kept clean and in good order, the
still slop salted two or three times a week; when fattening, hogs should
be kept in a close pen, and in the summer a place provided to wallow in
water.

Hogs that are fed on potale, ought not to lie out at night, as dew, rain
and snow injures them--indeed such is their aversion to bad weather,
that when it comes on, or only a heavy shower of rain, away they run,
full speed, each endeavoring to be foremost, all continually crying out,
until they reach their stye or place of shelter.

At the age of nine months, this animal copulates first, and frequently
earlier, but it is better engendering should be prevented, till the age
of eighteen months--for at an earlier age, the litter is uniformly
small, and weakly, and frequently do not survive, besides the growth is
injured. It is therefore better not to turn a sow to breeding, till from
18 to 24 months old.

The sow goes four months with pig, and yields her litter at the
commencement of the fifth; soon after encourages and receives the boar,
and thus produces two litters in the year. I have known an instance of
three litters having been produced in the year from one female.

A sow ought not to be permitted to suckle her pigs more than two or
three weeks, after which eight or nine only should be left with her, the
rest sold, or sent to market, or killed for use--at the age of three
weeks they are fit for eating, if the sow is well fed. A few sows will
serve, and those kept for breeding, well selected from the litter, the
residue, cut and splayed. Care and pains is due in the choice of the
breed of hogs--the breeder had then better procure good ones, and of a
good race at once, tho' the expense and trouble may seem material in the
outset, yet the keeping will be the same, and the produce perhaps fifty
per cent more.

After the pigs are weaned, they ought to be fed for the first two weeks
on milk, water and bran, after which potale may be used in the room of
milk. I would recommend a little mixed potale from an early period, and
increase it, so as to render them accustomed to the slop gradually.


ART. IV.

_Of the Diseases of Hogs._

The only disease that I know of which seems to be peculiar to hogs, is a
kind of leprosy, commonly called measles, when it seizes them, they
become dull and sleepy, if the tongue is pulled out, the palate and
throat will be found full of blackish spots, which appear also on the
head, neck, and on the whole body--the creature is scarce able to stand,
and the roots of its bristles are bloody. As this disorder proceeds
chiefly from their gluttony and filth, and hot drinking of potale and
slop; to remedy which, it would be commendable to feed on cold potale,
or scarcely milk warm, to keep them clean, to mix salt occasionally with
the potale--tar their trough once a month, and give them a little ground
antimony.

In fattening hogs I have known them improve rapidly, after eating the
warm ashes from a fresh burned brush heap. Hickory or willow ashes will
have an effect to destroy worms, and I think ought to be used, they will
eat it dry, when put in their troughs.


ART. V.

_On feeding Cattle and Milch Cows._

Potale is a great creator of milk, and will increase the quantity
greatly in cows yielding milk, but no so good. Young cattle thrive very
well, that get hay or straw during the night. To fatten cattle there
ought to be mixed with the slop, a little oil meal, or chopped flaxseed,
or chopped corn. The cattle kept on still slop ought to get plenty of
salt. Warm potale injures their teeth.




SECTION XI.


ARTICLE I.

_Observations on erecting Distilleries._

Those who are about to erect distilleries, have a handsome subject for
consideration; the advantages, and the probable disadvantages that may
arise from building on a particular site, or seat. The contiguity to a
chopping mill is a material consideration--Wood forming an important
article, should be taken into view--Grain merits also a great share of
attention. The water which forms, by no means, the least important
ingredient should be well analyzed; and a share of thought is due to
the subject of a market for the whiskey, spirits and pork, produced from
the establishment.--And should the water then prove good, soft and
proper for fermentation, can be bro't over head, and the chopping mill
is not very inconvenient, and wood convenient and cheap, and grain
plenty and at reasonable prices, and a market within one hundred miles,
I have little doubt but that with proper economy and observance of
system, the establishment will prove very productive; and may be
progressed in with cheerfulness, and a reasonable hope of a fair
retribution to the owner.

A proper seat being fixed on, with sufficient fall to bring the water
over head, for it is very material, and an immense saving of
labor--material, because it prevents a loss, in running the stills, from
pumping or want of water in the cooling tubs. The size of the house
follows, as requiring some more than usual calculation--houses are
generally made too small, giving great inconvenience, and preventing
that nice attention to cleanliness, which forms a very important item
in the process of distilling. I would recommend a size sufficiently
large for three stills, and to mash six hogsheads per day--one of col.
Anderson's patent improved stills, I would consider, in many situations,
as most desirable; at all events, I would recommend the preparation of
room enough for three stills, if even it should be the intention of the
owner to erect but two--for it is very probable, that after some
experience, he may determine to pursue the business more extensively,
and add the patent still.

The size then established, I would recommend the lower story to be 10
feet high, this will leave room for the heated, or rarefied air to
ascend in the summer above the cooler, and more necessary air in the
warm season of the year, and prevent the unpleasant effect of a too warm
air on the mashing hogsheads, and the sowing of the stuff in
fermentation--and moreover, prevent the unpleasant effects of smoak on
the distillers eyes. But it is important that the house should be
erected on level ground with doors opposite each other, with plenty of
windows to afford a draft and recourse of air, at pleasure, during the
warm season; and so that in the winter it may be closed and preserved
perfectly warm--to which end it is most expedient the lower story
should be well built with stone and lime, and neatly plastered--the
windows well glazed, with shutters &c. Thus provided, and a thermometer
placed in the centre of the house, a proper temperature may be kept up
in the air of the house--for there is a certain degree of warmth which
exceeds for fermentation--this degree of heat, then correctly
ascertained by the distiller, he may by a close attention to his duties,
fires and the thermometer, always keep the air of the house in nearly
that same and most approved state; and even by a well timed observation
guard against storms and casualties. To effectuate this grand and
important object, some have divided the stills, placing the boiler at
one end, and a singling and doubling still at the other; this mode will
ensure, in cold weather, the success of the measure more fully--others
have placed all the stills in the centre of the building--a plan that
will do better in the winter than in the summer, and one I think less
favourably of than that of dividing them.

During the winter, the north or northwest side of the house should be
kept quite close, permitting the house to be lighted from the more
temperate southward exposure. To calculate the window sashes to open by
hinges, or to be taken entirely out in the summer, at pleasure, is in my
mind advisable.




SECTION XII.


ARTICLE I.

_On Wines._

Presuming this work may be rendered more desirable to farmers, from the
introduction of some receipts for making domestic wine from the common
hedge grapes, or such as are common on fence rows and on high rich
grounds, and which are pleasantly flavored after receiving frost, and
also for making cider in the best mode for preservation. I have
extracted a few from various author's.


_Receipt for making Domestic Wine from the Autumn Blue Grape._

About the latter end of September or about the first white frosts,
gather the grapes which with us grow along old fences and hedges--pick
all the grapes from the stems that are juicy, allowing two bushels thus
picked a little heaped, to the barrel. Mash them well between your hands
in small parcels, either in earthen pans, or some convenient small
vessels--put them when mashed into a tub together, and add a little
water so as to soak the pumice.... After stirring them well together,
squeeze the pumice out from the liquor with your hands, as clean as you
can--then strain the juice through a hair sieve. If the juice seems not
all extracted from the pumice at one soaking and squeezing, put water to
the pumice and squeeze them over again; take care not to add too much
water, lest there should be more than the cask will hold. If after all
the ingredients are added, the cask is not full, it may then be filled
up with water. To the liquor thus prepared, add two pounds of good,
clean, rich low priced brown sugar, per gallon, stirring it in the tub
till all the sugar be dissolved; let it remain in the tub, and in a day
or two it will ferment, and the scum rise to the top, which must be
carefully skimmed off--then put the wine into a clean nice barrel--do
not bung it up tight. There is generally a fermentation in it the spring
following, when the grape vines are in blossom, but racking it off just
before that season will prevent its working too much. If it is wanted to
be soon ripe for use, put a quart of good old brandy after it is racked
off, to the barrel, and give it air by leaving the bung quite loose.

This mode of manufacturing wine for domestic use, is convenient and not
expensive to those who have it in their power to manufacture maple
sugar. But the nice housewife or husbandmen of ingenuity, will, I fancy,
devise some more neat mode of compressing the juice from the grape--as
pressing it by the hand, would seem less cleanly, though the
fermentation generally cleanses sufficiently.

_Currant Wine_

Is managed in the same way. The same quantity of sugar is presumed to
answer--The juice is generally well strained thro' cloths, and when well
stirred, &c. with the sugar, and neatly racked off, is put by in a loft
to ripen, in sweet casks.


ART. II.

_Directions for making Cider, British mode._

The apples after being thrown into a heap should always be covered from
the weather. The later the cider is made the better, as the juice is
then more perfectly ripened, and less danger to be feared from
fermentation. Nothing does more harm to cider than a mixture of rotten
apples with the sound. The apples ought to be ground so close as to
break the seeds which gives the liquor an agreeable bitter. The pumice
should be pressed through hair bags, and the juice strained through two
sieves, the uppermost of hair, the lower of muslin. After this the cider
should be put into open casks, when great attention is necessary to
discover the exact time in which the pumice still remaining in the
juice, rises on the top, which happens from the third to the tenth day,
according as the weather is more or less warm. This body does not remain
on top more than two hours; consequently, care should be taken to draw
off the cider before it sinks, which may be done by means of a plug.
When drawn off, the cider is put into casks. Particular attention is
again required to prevent the fermentation, when the least inclination
towards it is discovered. This may be done by a small quantity of cider
spirits, about one gallon to the hogshead. In March the cider should be
again drawn off, when all risque of fermentation ceases. Then it should
be put into good sweet casks, and in three years from that time, it will
be fit for bottling. Old wine casks are to be preferred; those which
contain rum are ruinous to cider. Large earthen vessels might be made
with or without glazing, which would be preferable to any wooden vessel
whatever. When we compare this with the hasty American mode of making
cider, it is not to be wondered at that the English cider so infinitely
excels ours.


ART. III.

_The following is a very highly approved American mode of making Cider._

Take care to have every necessary utensil to be made use of in the whole
process, perfectly clean and free from every foreign smell. For this
purpose, before you begin your work, let your mill, trough and press be
made perfectly clean, by thoroughly washing, and if necessary, with
scalding water. The casks are another material object, and if musty, or
any other bad smell, one end should be taken out, and with shavings burn
the inside; then scrub them clean, and put in the head, scald them well
afterwards, and drain them perfectly; when dry, bung them tight and keep
them in a cool shady place until wanted for use.--The apples should be
quite ripe, and all the unripe and rotten ones, leaves, and every other
thing that can tend to give the cider any disagreeable taste, carefully
separated from them. I have found from careful attention and many
experiments, that it is a great advantage to the cider to be separated
from the gross parts as soon as possible; for this purpose, I tried
several methods: that which I found succeeded the best, I shall now
relate, as by following it, I was able to preserve my cider in a sound
state, though made in the early part of the season. I took a large pipe,
of about 150 gallons, had one of the heads taken out, and on the inside
of the other laid on edge, four strips of boards, two inches wide, and
on these strips placed a false bottom, filled with gimlet holes, three
inches a part. On this false bottom, I put a hair cloth, (old blanket or
swingline tow will do) so as to prevent any sand from washing into the
space between the true and false bottoms; I procured a quantity of
coarse sand, which was carefully washed in repeated waters, until it
would not discolor the clean water--then dried the sand, put it in the
pipe, on the hair cloth, (coarse blanket or swingline tow,) about 9
inches thick.

Thus having every thing in readiness, I went through the process of
making, as quick as possible, by having the apples ground fine early in
the morning, putting them in the press as fast as they were ground; and
then in sufficient quantities pressed out the juice, and put it over the
sand in the cask, (having previously bored a gimlet hole in the side of
the cask), between the true and false bottoms, in which I introduced a
large goose-quill, stopped with another. The pipe was placed so high, as
to admit of a cask under it, to receive the liquor as it ran from the
quill, which, if rightly managed, will be perfectly fine, and being put
away in a cool cellar, and stopped close, will keep well, and prove of
an excellent quality.

This process is easy, and in every person's power to execute, as the
liquor, by being cleared, from its gross feculences, will not run into
that violent fermentation, so destructive to the fine vinous flavor,
which renders good cider so pleasing a drink.

_Query._ Would not a quart of good apple brandy to each barrel of cider,
made in this way, prevent any fermentation?

But it is generally believed that cider is the better for having
undergone a fermentation, becoming then more active and light; cider
that has undergone condensation, or has been boiled down until strong,
has been found to keep sound some length of time, but it is too heavy
and destructive to the appetite, cloying the digesting powers.--And by
too frequent use, I fancy, will ultimately produce ague and fevers; and
I fear, cider made according to the foregoing receipt, would have a
similar effect, but in a lesser degree.

I would recommend after a due attention to cleanliness, in the apple
mill, trough, press and casks, that the apples be assorted, and having
been exposed to the air, under a roof or shed some time, selecting the
sound only, that they be ground fine, and let stand soaking in the
pumice twelve hours, and then pressed off, through a clean rye straw
cheese (being the most common and convenient in the country,) and when
flowing from the press, a vessel should be provided, with the bottom
full of gimlet holes, in the style of a riddle, on which lay a coarse
cloth, then a layer of clean sand, over which a parcel of coarse rye
straw, and suffer it to filter thro' this vessel into the large
receiving tub; the rye straw will intercept the coarser pieces of
pumice, and may be changed frequently--This mode will rid the liquor of
all the coarser pieces of pumice--then I would recommend that the cider
should be placed in open hogsheads, such as are used for mashing grain
in distilleries; those being raised about two feet and an half high on
logs or a scaffolding, under a shade or covering--a spile hole bored
near the bottom of each, so as to admit a barrel to stand under the
spile--in this state, I would recommend it to stand until it undergoes a
fermentation, carefully watching the top, and when the pumice is found
to have risen, to skim it off carefully, then having previously provided
sweet barrels, draw it off by the spile hole, adding from a pint to a
quart of apple brandy to each barrel of strong cider, bung it up tight,
and store it where the frost will not injure it. In this way, I presume
it will keep well--and if the party be so disposed, I would recommend
any bottling to be done in April, and during clear weather, though it is
safe to bottle immediately after having undergone a thorough
fermentation.


_The following Receipt to make an excellent American Wine,_

Was communicated to the Burlington Society for promoting domestic
manufactures, by Joseph Cooper, Esq. of Gloucester county, state of New
Jersey, and ordered to be published;--which, from its extreme
simplicity, and economy, shewing the convenience with which a very
pleasant, healthful beverage, may be kept by every family in our
country, is published in this work. And moreover, as it may have, in
some degree, the happy effects of correcting the baneful and pernicious
effects of coffee, which is so commonly used for breakfast in our state
at present.

Coffee, when first introduced, was used as a medicine only, and given
only in a well clarified state, and sparingly--both from its soothing
and pleasant effect, it become common, and now it is almost the only
beverage used at breakfast by the farmers of Pennsylvania, and indeed,
people suppose the morning repast is not genteel, unless the board is
decorated with this foreign beverage. If it was used in a moderately
strong well clarified state, it would be less injurious, but it is too
frequently set down in a non descript state, difficult to be named, mixed
with the grounds, and so far from clear, as to be entitled to the epithet
of muddy, and sweetened with bad sugar, carrying with it to the simply
ignorant family, using it in this state, the cause in a great measure of
destroying the tone of the stomach, overloading it, and by and by, the
introduction of a kind of dumb ague, or chill, followed with a fever, and
often creating intermitting and remitting fevers--consequences arising
out of the free use of bad provisions--which diseases are oftentimes kept
up by the use of this infamously prepared coffee, for when the country
people get sick, coffee is too frequently used as the only diet.

It is particularly injurious to bilious habits--souring on the stomach,
becoming acid, creating acidity, and preventing the glandular juicy
supplies from producing the usual fermentation of the food in the
stomach--rendering the chyle vitiated, which in its usual route,
imparts from the intestines, nourishment to the blood. Thus conveying
its baneful properties by this active vehicle, chyle to the blood,
rendering it foetid, discoloured and by and by, often as difficult to
be named in its adulterated state as the composition which gave rise to
it. Had we not very many instances of new diseases--complaints which the
most eminent of the medical faculty can with difficulty name, or treat
with judgment, without first having made many essays and experiments
fatal to the lives of hundreds, which are increasing with every
approaching season, and all since the adoption of coffee. (True, the
free use of ardent spirits and other luxuries operating on the effects
of indolence--of habits, produced by the wealth and independence of our
agricultural and commercial people, and growing out of an imitation of
the elevated, affluent of society, born to fortune, and the successful
professional characters;) a doubt might present itself as to the
propriety of attributing many of those new complaints to coffee ... but
to a too plentiful use of bad provisions, and an indulgence of bad
habits, we must attribute to them. And as badly made coffee is among the
most pernicious kinds of food, and particularly when taken in the
morning on an empty stomach, and that too made from very green coffee,
(dreadfully poisonous when used too frequently before it acquires age
and a whiter colour,) it may be condemned with greater propriety. And
whilst this beverage is condemned and so highly to be disapproved of, it
is well if we can invent a light, pure, active and healthful beverage to
be taken freely, between or at meals, calculated in its nature to
correct in some degree, the unhappy effects of bad provisions--it is
therefore I mention the

_Receipt for making Honey Wine._

I put a quantity of the comb from which the honey had been drained, into
a tub, to which I add a barrel of cider, immediately from the press;
this mixture was well stirred, and left to soak for one night. It was
then strained before a fermentation took place, and honey was added
until the weight of the liquor was sufficient to bear an egg. It was
then put into a barrel, and after the fermentation commenced, the cask
was filled every day for three or four days, with water, that the filth
might work out of the bung hole. When the fermentation moderated, I put
the bung in loosely, lest stopping it tight, might cause the cask to
burst.--At the end of five or six weeks the liquor was drawn off into a
tub, and the white of eight eggs well beaten up, with a pint of clean
sand, were put into it--I then added a gallon of cider spirit, and after
mixing the whole well together, I returned it into the cask, which was
well cleaned, bunged it tight and placed it in a proper situation for
racking it off when fine. In the month of April following, I drew it off
for use, and found it equal in my opinion, to almost any foreign
wine--in the opinion of many good judges it was superior.

This success has induced me to repeat the experiments for three years,
and I am persuaded that by using the clean honey, instead of the comb,
as above described; such an improvement might be made as would enable
the citizens of the United States, to supply themselves with a truly
federal and wholesome wine, which would not cost more than twenty cents
per gallon, were all the ingredients procured at the market prices, and
would have the peculiar advantage over all other wines, hitherto
attempted in this country, that it contains no foreign mixture
whatever, but is made from ingredients produced on our own farms.

[_Columbian Magazine, November_ 1790.

Doubtless the foregoing wine will be found strong, and if not well
clarified, or rather fined, may be heavy--and therefore will be found
excellent when diluted freely with water, and when about to be drank,
two thirds of water will be found necessary, and an improvement.

Bottling the foregoing wine in April, will certainly render it more
excellent, and I fancy it ought to be drank mixed with water, during
warm weather, and between meals, as in its pure state it may be found
heavy. The gentleman who made the foregoing experiments, drew it off in
kegs--this we presume was done to prevent its souring--as cider will
suffer, and become hard after broaching the cask, whereas whilst full it
remained sound. All American vinous liquors are liable to sour, because
we rarely understand or practice the proper mode of manufacturing.

Complete cleansing and fermentation is absolutely necessary--and when
fermented, it must be well fined, and then drawn off in nice casks, or
bottled--bottling is certainly the most effectual, and if a farmer
procures as many as three dozen of black bottles, they with three kegs
of seven and an half gallons each, will hold the barrel.--The kegs well
bunged, will preserve the wine sound, and when a keg is broached, it
must be immediately drawn off and bottled. The bottles when emptied,
ought to be rinsed and stood up in an airy closet to drain.


_To make Elderberry Wine._

_The editor is happy in introducing the following receipts which he is
confident is hardly known in America. The great quantities of the
Elderberry, which yearly goes to waste, might with very little trouble
be manufactured into one of the most wholesome and agreeable wines ever
introduced into America._

To every two quarts of berries, add one gallon of water, boil it half an
hour, then strain it, and add to every gallon of liquor, two and an
half pounds of sugar, then boil it together for half an hour, and skim
it well; when cool (not cold) put in a piece of toasted bread, spread
thick with brewer's yeast, to ferment. When you put this liquor into the
barrel, which must be done the next day, add to every gallon of liquor,
one pound of raisins, chopped, and stir all together in the barrel, once
every day, for a week, then stop it close. It will not be fit to tap
'till the spring following the making; and the older the better.


_To make Elderberry Wine, to drink, made warm, as a Cordial._

Equal quantities of berries and water boiled together, till the berries
break, then strain off the liquor, and to every gallon thereof, put
three pounds of sugar, and spice, to your palate, boil all up together,
let it stand till it becomes cool, (not cold); then put in a piece of
toasted bread, spread thick with brewer's yeast, to ferment, and in two
or three days, it will be fit to put in the barrel, then stop it close.
This will be fit to drink at Christmas, but the older the better.




SECTION XIII.


ARTICLE I.

_To make Rye Malt for Stilling._

Steep it twenty four hours in warm weather, in cold, forty eight, so in
proportion as the weather is hot or cold; drain off the water, lay it in
your malt cellar, about fifteen inches thick, for twelve hours; then
spread it out half that thickness, sprinkling water on it at the same
time; after that, it is to be turned three times a day with care,
sprinkling water on as before. The thickness of the bed in this stage,
must depend on the weather; work it in this way till the sprout is half
as long as the grain, then throw it on your withering floor, wither it
there for forty eight hours; then put it on your kiln to dry.


ART. II.

_Of Brewing Beer._

As the following is intended principally for the use of private
families, it will be necessary to begin with directions how to choose
good Malt; for which, see page 67.

_Of the Brewing Vessels._

To a copper that holds 36 gallons, the mash-tub ought to be at least big
enough to contain six bushels of malt, and the copper of liquor, and
room for mashing or stirring it: The under back, coolers and working
tubs, may be rather fitted for the conveniency of the room, than to a
particular size; for if one vessel be not sufficient to hold your
liquor, you may take a second.


_Of cleaning and sweetening Casks & Brewing Vessels._

If a cask, after the beer is drank out, be well stopt to keep out the
air, and the lees remaining in it till you want to use it again, you
will need only to scald it well, and take care of the hoops before you
fill it; but if air gets into a foul empty cask, it will contract an ill
scent in spight of scalding. A handful of bruised pepper boiled in the
water you scald with, will take out a little musty smell; but the surest
way is to take out the head of the cask, and let the cooper shave and
burn it a little, and then scald it for use; if you cannot conveniently
have a cooper to the cask, get some stone lime, and put about three
pound into a barrel, (and proportionally to smaller or bigger vessels)
and put to it about six gallons of cold water, bung it up, and shake it
about for some time, and afterwards scald it well; or for want of lime,
take a linen rag, and dip it in melted brimstone, and fasten one end to
the bung, and light the other, and let it hang on the cask. You must
give it a little air, else it will not burn; but keep in as much of the
sulphur as you can. Scald it afterwards, and you will find no ill smell.

If you have new casks, before you fill them, dig places in the earth,
and lay them half their depth with their bung holes downward, for a
week; and after well scalding them, you may venture to fill them.

Another way to proceed, if your brewing vessels are tinged with any ill
smell, is to take unflacked lime and water, and with an old broom scrub
the vessel whilst the water is hissing, with the lime; and afterwards
take all this lime and water away, and put fresh water into the vessel,
and throw some bay or common salt into each, and let it stand a day or
two; and when you come to brew, scald your vessels, throw into them a
little malt-dust or bran; and this will not only finish their
sweetening, but stop them from leaking.

But since there is so much trouble in getting vessels sweet after they
have been neglected, you ought to make all thorough clean after brewing,
and once a month to fill your vessels with fair water, and let it off
again in two or three days.


_Of mashing or raking your Liquors._

Suppose you take six bushels of malt, and two pounds of hops, and would
make of it one barrel of strong, and two barrels of small beer.

Heat your first copper of liquor for mashing, and strew over it a double
handful of bran or malt; by which you will see when it begins to boil;
for it will break and curl, and then it is fit to be let off into the
mash tub, where it must remain till the steam is quite spent, and you
can see your face in it, before you put in your malt; and then you begin
to mash, stirring it all the while you are putting in the malt: but keep
out about half a bushel dry, which you are to strew over the rest, when
you have done stirring it, which will be as soon as you have well mixed
it with the liquor, and prevented it from clodding.

After the dry malt is laid on, cover your mash tub with cloths, to
prevent losing any spirit of the malt, and let it so remain for two
hours. Meanwhile have another copper of liquor hot; and at two hours end
begin to let off your first wort into the under-back. Receive a pailful
of the first running, and throw it again upon the malt.--You will find
that the malt has sucked up half of your first copper of liquor; and
therefore to make up your quantity of wort for your strong beer, you
must gradually lade out of the second copper, and strew bowl after bowl
over the malt, giving it time to soak thro', and keeping it running by
an easy stream, till you perceive you have about forty gallons, which in
boiling and working will be reduced to thirty-six.

If you throw into the under-back (whilst you are letting off) about half
a pound of hops, it will preserve it from foxing, or growing sour or
ropy.

Your first wort being all run off, you must soften the tap of the mash
tub; and take a copper of hot liquor for your second mashing, stirring
up the malt as you did at first, and then cover it close for two hours
more. Meanwhile you fill your copper with the first wort, and boil it
with the remainder of the two pounds of hops, for an hour and an half,
and then lade it off into the coolers.

Contrive to receive the hops in a sieve, basket, or thin woolen bag that
is sweet and clean; then immediately fill your copper with cold liquor,
renew your fire under it, and begin to let off your second wort, throw a
handful of hops into the under-back, for the same reason as before: you
will want to lade a few bowls full of liquor over the malt to make up
the copper full of second wort; and when you have enough, fasten the tap
and mash a third time after the same manner, and cover it close for
another two hours; and then charge your copper with the second wort,
boiling it for an hour with the same hops.

By this time you may shift your first wort out of the coolers into a
working tub, to make room for the second wort to come into the coolers;
and then your copper being empty, you may heat as much liquor as will
serve you to lade over the malt, or, by this time, rather grains, to
make up your third and last copper of wort, which must be bottled with
the same hops over again; and then your coolers are discharged of your
second wort, to make room for the third; and when they are both of a
proper coolness, they may be put together before you set them a working.

During the time of shifting your liquors out of the copper, it is of
consequence to take care to preserve it from receiving damage by
burning: you should always contrive to have the fire low, or else to
damp it at the time of emptying, and be very expeditious to put in fresh
liquor.


_Of working the Liquor._

In this, regard must be had to the water: liquor naturally grows warm in
working; therefore, in mild weather, it should be cold before it be set
on, but a little warm in cold weather. The manner of doing it, is to put
some good sweet yeast into a hand-bowl or piggin, with a little warm
wort; then put the hand-bowl to swim upon the wort in the working tub,
and in a little while it will work out, and leisurely mix with the wort,
and when you find the yeast is gotten hold of the wort, you must look
after it frequently; and if you perceive it begins to heat and ferment
too fast, lade some of it out into another tub; and when grown cold, it
may be put back again; or if you reserve some of the raw wort, you may
check it leisurely, by stirring it in with a hand-bowl. The cooler you
work your liquor, the better, provided it does but work well.

If you happen to check it too much, you may forward its working, by
filling a gallon stone bottle with boiling water, cork it close and put
the bottle into the working tub.--An ounce or two of powdered ginger
will have the same effect.

There are a variety of methods in managing liquors whilst they are
working.--Some people beat the yeast of strong beer and ale, once in two
or three hours, for two or three days together.

This they reckon makes the drink more heady, but withal hardens it so as
to be drinkable in two or three days; the last day of beating it in,
(stirring the yeast and beer together) the yeast, as it rises, will
thicken; and then they take off part of the yeast, and beat in the rest,
which they repeat as often as it rises thick; and when it has done
working, they tun it up, so as it may just work out of the barrel.

Others again do not beat it in at all, but let their strong drink work
about two days, or till they see the ferment is over; and then they take
off the top yeast, and either by a tap near the bottom, let it off sine,
or else lade it out gently, to leave the sediment and yeast at the
bottom.

This way is proper for liquor that is to be drank soon: but if it be to
keep, it will want the sediment to feed upon, and may probably grow
stale, unless you make artificial lees: This you may make of a quart of
brandy, and as much flour of wheat as will make it into dough; put them
in lumps into the bung hole as soon as it has done working. Or else take
a pound of the powder of oyster shells and mix it with a pound of
treacle or honey, and put it in soon after it has done working.

It would add to the goodness, as well as sining of your malt liquor, if
you took two quarts of wheat, and make them very dry and crisp in an
oven, or before the fire, and boil them in your first copper of
wort.--They would strain off with your hops, and might be put with them
into the second copper.


_Of the fining of Malt Liquors._

It is most desirable to have beer fine of itself, which it seldom fails
to do in due time, if rightly brewed and worked; but as disappointments
some times happen, it will be necessary to know what to do in such
cases.

Ivory shavings boiled in your wort, or hartshorn shavings put into your
cask just before you bung it down, will do much towards fining and
keeping your liquor from growing stale.

Isinglass is the most common thing made use of in fining all sorts of
liquors; they first beat it well with a hammer or mallet, and lay it in
a pail, and then draw off about two gallons of the liquor to be fined
upon it, and let it soak two or three days; and when it is soft enough
to mix with the liquor, they take a whisk, and stir it about till it is
all of a ferment, and white froth; and they frequently add the whites
and shells of about a dozen of eggs, which they beat in with it, and put
altogether into the cask; then with a clean mop-stick, or some such
thing, stir the whole together; and then lay a cloth, or piece of paper
over the bung-hole, till the ferment is over; and then bung it up close,
in a few days it will fall fine.

But if you want to fine only a small quantity, take half an ounce of
unflacked lime, and put it into a pint of water, and stir it well
together, and let it stand for two or three hours, or till the lime
settle to the bottom; then pour the water off clear, and throw away the
sediment; then take half an ounce of isinglass cut small, and boil it in
the lime water till it dissolves; then let it cool, and pour it into the
vessel, &c.


_Of the season for Brewing._

The season for brewing keeping-beer is certainly best before Christmas,
for then your malt is in perfection, not having time to contract either
a musty smell, dust or weavels, (an insect that eats out the heart of
the malt) and the waters are then seldom mixed with snow; and then four
pounds of hops will go as far as five in the spring of the year: For you
must increase in the quantity of hops as you draw towards summer. But,
in short, chuse moderate weather as much as you can for brewing, and if
you have a kindly cellar besides to keep your liquor in, that will not
be much affected by extremity of heat or cold, you may reasonably expect
great satisfaction in your brewery.

Avoid as much as possible brewing in hot weather; but if you are
necessitated to brew, make no more than present drinking, for it will
not keep.


_To make Elderberry-Beer or Ebulum._

Take a hogshead of the first and strong wort, and boil in the same one
bushel of picked Elderberries, full ripe; strain off, and when cold,
work the liquor in the hogshead, and not in an open tun or tub; and
after it has lain in the cask about a year, bottle it; and it will be a
good rich drink, which they call ebulum; and has often been preferred to
portwine, for its pleasant taste, and healthful quality.

N. B. There is no occasion for the use of sugar in this operation;
because the wort has strength and sweetness enough in itself to answer
that end; but there should be an infusion of hops added to the liquor,
by way of preservation and relish.

Some likewise hang a small bag of bruised spices in the vessel.


_To make improved and excellent wholesome Purl._

Take Roman wormwood two dozen, gentian-root six pounds; calamus
aromatics (or the sweet flag root) two pounds; a pound or two of the
galen gale-root; horse radish one bunch; orange peal dried, and
juniper berries, each two pounds; seeds or kernels of Seville oranges
cleaned and dried, two pounds.

These being cut and bruised, put them into a clean butt, and start your
mild brown, or pale beer upon them, so as to fill up the vessel, about
the beginning of November, and let it stand till the next season; and
make it thus annually.


_To brew Strong Beer._

To a barrel of beer take two bushels of wheat just cracked in the mill,
and some of the flour sifted out of it; when your water is scalding hot,
put it into your mash-vat, there let it stand till you can see your face
in it; then put your malt upon that, and do not stir it; let it stand
two hours and an half; then let it run into a tub that has two pounds of
hops in it, and a handful of rosemary flowers; and when it is all run,
put it into the copper, and boil it two hours; then strain it off,
setting it a cooling very thin, and setting it a working very cool;
clear it very well before you put it a working; put a little yeast to
it; when the yeast begins to fall, put it into your vessel, put in a
pint of whole grain, and six eggs, then stop it; Let it stand a year,
and then bottle it.

A good table-beer may be made, by mashing again, after the preceding is
drawn off; then let it stand two hours, and let that run, and mash
again, and stir it as before; be sure to cover your mashing-vat well;
mix the first and second running together.


_To make China Ale._

To six gallons of ale, take a quarter of a pound or more of China root,
thin sliced, and a quarter of a pound of coriander seeds, bruised--hang
these in a tiffany, or coarse linen bag, in the vessel, till it has done
working; and let it stand fourteen days before you bottle.


_To make Ale, or any other liquor, that is too new, or sweet, drink
stale._

To do this to the advantage of health, put to every quart of ale, or
other liquor, 10 or 12 drops of the true spirit of salt, and let them be
well mixed together, which they will soon do it by the subtile spirits
penetrating into all parts, and have proper effect.


_To recover sour Ale._

Scrape fine chalk a pound, or as the quantity of liquor requires, more;
put it into a thin bag into the ale.


_To recover Liquor that is turned bad._

If any liquor be pricked or fading, put to it a little syrup of clay,
and let it ferment with a little barm, which will recover it; and when
it is well settled, bottle it up, put in a clove or two, with a lump of
loaf sugar.


_Directions for Bottling._

You must have firm corks, boiled in wort, or grounds of beer; fill
within an inch of the cork's reach, and beat it in with a mallet; then,
with a small brass wire, bind the neck of the bottle, bring up the ends,
and twist them over with a pair of pincers.


_To make a quarter of a hogshead of Ale, and a hogshead of Beer, of
cooked Malt._

Take five strike of malt not ground too small; put in some boiling
water, to cover the bottom of your mashing-vat before you put in your
malt; mash it with more boiling water, putting in your malt at several
times, that it may be sure to be all wet alike; cover it with a peck of
wheat bran, then let it stand thus mashed four hours, then draw off
three gallons of wort, and pour it upon that you have mashed, so let it
stand half an hour more, till it runs clear, then draw of all that will
run, and take two quarts of it to begin to work up with the barm, which
must be about a pint and a half--put in the two quarts of wort at three
times to the barm; you need not stir it till you begin to put in the
boiled wort.

You will not have enough to fill your vessel at first; wherefore you
must pour on more boiling water, immediately after the other has done
running, till you have enough to fill a quarter of a hogshead, and then
pour on water for a hogshead of beer.

As soon as the ale wort has run off, put a third part into the
boiler--when it boils up, take off the scum, which you may put upon the
grains for the small beer--when it is skimmed, put in a pound and an
half of hops, having first sifted out the seeds, then put in all the
wort, and let it boil two hours and an half, afterwards strain into two
coolers, and let it stand to cool and settle, then put it to cool a
little at a time, to the barm, and two quarts of wort, and beat it well
together: every time you put the wort in, be sure you keep the settling
out.

Suppose you brew early on Thursday morning, you may tun it at 9 or 10 on
Saturday morning.

Do not fill your vessel quite full, but keep about three gallons to put
in, when it has worked 24 hours, which will make it work again.

As soon as it hath done working, stop it up, put the drink as cool as
you can together; thus it will work well.


_To make Treacle Beer._

Boil two quarts of water, put into it one pound of treacle or molasses,
stir them together till they are well mixed; then put six or eight
quarts of cold water to it, and about a tea cup full of yeast or barm,
put it up in a clean cask or stein, cover it over with a coarse cloth,
two or three times double, it will be fit to drink in two or three days.

The second and third time of making, the bottom of the first beer will
do instead of yeast.

If you make a large quantity, or intend it for keeping, you must put in
a handful of hops and another of malt, for it to feed on, and when done
working, stop it up close.

The above is the best and cheapest way of making treacle beer, tho' some
people add raisins, bran, wormwood, spices, such fruit, &c. as are in
season, but that is just as you fancy.

Indeed many pleasant, cheap, and wholesome drinks may be made from
fruits, &c. if they are bruised and boiled in water, before the treacle
is added.

The plan of manufacturing domestic wines, mead and small beer, once
established and understood in a family, becomes easy--is considered a
duty--and the females prepare as regularly for renewing them, as for
baking, and doing every other branch of business. Many families amidst
plenty of ingredients and means, rarely have a comfortable beverage
under their roof--this is attributable to indolence, stupidity and want
of knowledge.--A little well timed, planning and system, with little
more than usual labour, by the intelligent housewife, will cause
comfort and plenty to reign throughout, and prove a fine and salutary
example to society. Besides, the pleasure a lady derives from presenting
a glass of good wine, in a nice clean glass to her welcome visitants,
will always amply compensate for the trouble of manufacturing, and
preparing it; but when the more intelligent pass a handsome and well
merited compliment on the neatness and quality of her fare--she derives
happiness from her industry, and a degree of pleasure approaching to
exquisite. She may be esteemed one "who hath used her active faculties
for the benefit of her family and society, and not only deserves well of
society, but of heaven, for the judicious and liberal exercise of the
mind, that god-like intellect, among the finest gifts of the munificent
creator of worlds." But of her, who sitteth still and inactive, and doth
not exercise those intellectual powers, it may be said "she is of an
estrayed soul," and "hath buried her talent." And neither merits the
attention of society, or the grateful love of her husband and
family--and throws herself on the mercy of her God for forgiveness, for
her numerous omissions, in withholding the exercise of her active
faculties--presuming the being or individual, who is capable of the
neglect of one duty, is capable of neglecting all--and tho' some little
appearance may be kept up, yet conviction is eternally in the eye of the
great judge--and not to be evaded.

Thus then the laws of society, morality and religion, requiring the
active exercise of our person and faculties--offering the finest and
most inducing rewards, the words of our language are capable of
describing, in the health afforded from exercise; the example, from
which society is benefitted; the pleasure derived from the approbation
of our neighbors, and a conscientiousness of having performed our duties
here, and living by the exercise of a proper system of economy, in a
constant state of independence, always in possession of the means of
alleviating the condition of the indigent and unfortunate in
society--and relieving the wants of our friends--and above all, the hope
of eternal happiness in the approbation of heaven hereafter.


_FINIS_





End of Project Gutenberg's The Practical Distiller, by Samuel McHarry