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[Illustration: PRESIDENT JEFFERSON DAVIS.]




THREE MONTHS

IN

THE SOUTHERN STATES

APRIL-JUNE 1863

BY

LIEUT.-COL. FREMANTLE

COLDSTREAM GUARDS


WITH PORTRAITS ENGRAVED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS


WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS
EDINBURGH AND LONDON
MDCCCLXIII


_The Right of Translation is reserved_




PORTRAITS.


PRESIDENT JEFFERSON DAVIS,        _Frontispiece_

JOSEPH E. JOHNSTON,               _Page_ 117

LIEUT.-GENERAL LEONIDAS POLK,            147

GENERAL G. T. BEAUREGARD,                196

LIEUT.-GENERAL JAMES LONGSTREET,         242

GENERAL ROBERT E. LEE,                   253




PREFACE.


At the outbreak of the American war, in common with many of my
countrymen, I felt very indifferent as to which side might win; but if I
had any bias, my sympathies were rather in favour of the North, on
account of the dislike which an Englishman naturally feels at the idea
of Slavery. But soon a sentiment of great admiration for the gallantry
and determination of the Southerners, together with the unhappy contrast
afforded by the foolish bullying conduct of the Northerners, caused a
complete revulsion in my feelings, and I was unable to repress a strong
wish to go to America and see something of this wonderful struggle.

Having successfully accomplished my design, I returned to England, and
found amongst all my friends an extreme desire to know the truth of what
was going on in the South; for, in consequence of the blockade, the
truth can with difficulty be arrived at, as intelligence coming mainly
through Northern sources is not believed; and, in fact, nowhere is the
ignorance of what is passing in the South more profound than it is in
the Northern States.

In consequence of a desire often expressed, I now publish the Diary
which I endeavoured, as well as I could, to keep up day by day during my
travels throughout the Confederate States. The latter portion of the
Diary, which has reference to the battle of Gettysburg, has already
appeared in 'Blackwood's Magazine;' and the interest with which it was
received has encouraged me to publish the remainder.

I have not attempted to conceal any of the peculiarities or defects
of the Southern people. Many persons will doubtless highly disapprove of
some of their customs and habits in the wilder portion of the country;
but I think no generous man, whatever may be his political opinions, can
do otherwise than admire the courage, energy, and patriotism of the
whole population, and the skill of its leaders, in this struggle against
great odds. And I am also of opinion that many will agree with me in
thinking that a people in which all ranks and both sexes display a
unanimity and a heroism which can never have been surpassed in the
history of the world, is destined, sooner or later, to become a great
and independent nation.




THREE MONTHS

IN

THE SOUTHERN STATES.

APRIL, MAY, JUNE, 1863.


_2d March 1863._--I left England in the royal mail steamer Atrato, and
arrived at St Thomas on the 17th.

       *       *       *       *       *

_22d March._--Anchored at Havana at 6.15 A.M., where I fell in with my
old friend, H.M.'s frigate Immortalité. Captain Hancock not only
volunteered to take me as his guest to Matamoros, but also to take a
Texan merchant, whose acquaintance I had made in the Atrato. This
gentleman's name is M'Carthy. He is of Irish birth--an excellent fellow,
and a good companion; and when he understood my wish to see the "South,"
he had most good-naturedly volunteered to pilot me over part of the
Texan deserts. I owe much to Captain Hancock's kindness.

       *       *       *       *       *

_23d March._--Left Havana in H.M.S. Immortalité, at 11 A.M. Knocked off
steam when outside the harbour.

       *       *       *       *       *

_1st April._--Anchored at 8.30 P.M., three miles from the mouth of the
Rio Grande, or Rio Bravo del Norte, which is, I believe, its more
correct name, in the midst of about seventy merchant vessels.

       *       *       *       *       *

_2d April._--The Texan and I left the Immortalité, in her cutter, at 10
A.M., and crossed the bar in fine style. The cutter was steered by Mr
Johnston, the master, and having a fair wind, we passed in like a flash
of lightning, and landed at the miserable village of Bagdad, on the
Mexican bank of the Rio Grande.

The bar was luckily in capital order--3-1/2 feet of water, and smooth.
It is often impassable for ten or twelve days together: the depth of
water varying from 2 to 5 feet. It is very dangerous, from the heavy
surf and under-current; sharks also abound. Boats are frequently
capsized in crossing it, and the Orlando lost a man on it about a month
ago.

Seventy vessels are constantly at anchor outside the bar; their cotton
cargoes being brought to them, with very great delays, by two small
steamers from Bagdad. These steamers draw only 3 feet of water, and
realise an enormous profit.

Bagdad consists of a few miserable wooden shanties, which have sprung
into existence since the war began. For an immense distance endless
bales of cotton are to be seen.

Immediately we landed, M'Carthy was greeted by his brother merchants. He
introduced me to Mr Ituria, a Mexican, who promised to take me in his
buggy to Brownsville, on the Texan bank of the river opposite Matamoros.
M'Carthy was to follow in the evening to Matamoros.

The Rio Grande is very tortuous and shallow; the distance by river to
Matamoros is sixty-five miles, and it is navigated by steamers, which
sometimes perform the trip in twelve hours, but more often take
twenty-four, so constantly do they get aground.

The distance from Bagdad to Matamoros by land is thirty-five miles; on
the Texan side to Brownsville, twenty-six miles.

I crossed the river from Bagdad with Mr Ituria, at 11 o'clock; and as I
had no pass, I was taken before half-a-dozen Confederate officers, who
were seated round a fire contemplating a tin of potatoes. These officers
belonged to Duff's cavalry (Duff being my Texan's partner). Their dress
consisted simply of flannel shirts, very ancient trousers, jack-boots
with enormous spurs, and black felt hats, ornamented with the "lone star
of Texas." They looked rough and dirty, but were extremely civil to me.

The captain was rather a boaster, and kept on remarking, "We've given
'em h----ll on the Mississippi, h----ll on the Sabine" (pronounced
Sabeen), "and h----ll in various other places."

He explained to me that he couldn't cross the river to see M'Carthy, as
he with some of his men had made a raid over there three weeks ago, and
carried away some "renegadoes," one of whom, named Mongomery, they had
_left_ on the road to Brownsville; by the smiles of the other officers I
could easily guess that something very disagreeable must have happened
to Mongomery. He introduced me to a skipper who had just run his
schooner, laden with cotton, from Galveston, and who was much elated in
consequence. The cotton had cost 6 cents a pound in Galveston, and is
worth 36 here.

Mr Ituria and I left for Brownsville at noon. A buggy is a light gig on
four high wheels.

The road is a natural one--the country quite flat, and much covered
with mosquite trees, very like pepper trees. Every person we met carried
a six-shooter, although it is very seldom necessary to use them.

After we had proceeded about nine miles we met General Bee, who commands
the troops at Brownsville. He was travelling to Boca del Rio in an
ambulance,[1] with his Quartermaster-General, Major Russell. I gave him
my letter of introduction to General Magruder, and told him who I was.

He thereupon descended from his ambulance and regaled me with beef and
beer in the open. He is brother to the General Bee who was killed at
Manassas. We talked politics and fraternised very amicably for more than
an hour. He said the Mongomery affair was against his sanction, and he
was sorry for it. He said that Davis, another renegado, would also have
been put to death, had it not been for the intercession of his wife.
General Bee had restored Davis to the Mexicans.

Half an hour after parting company with General Bee, we came to the
spot where Mongomery had been _left_; and sure enough, about two hundred
yards to the left of the road, we found him.

He had been slightly buried, but his head and arms were above the
ground, his arms tied together, the rope still round his neck, but part
of it still dangling from quite a small mosquite tree. Dogs or wolves
had probably scraped the earth from the body, and there was no flesh on
the bones. I obtained this my first experience of Lynch law within three
hours of landing in America.

I understand that this Mongomery was a man of very bad character, and
that, confiding in the neutrality of the Mexican soil, he was in the
habit of calling the Confederates all sorts of insulting epithets from
the Bagdad bank of the river; and a party of his "renegadoes" had also
crossed over and killed some unarmed cotton teamsters, which had roused
the fury of the Confederates.

About three miles beyond this we came to Colonel Duff's encampment. He
is a fine-looking, handsome Scotchman, and received me with much
hospitality. His regiment consisted of newly-raised volunteers--a very
fine body of young men, who were drilling in squads. They were dressed
in every variety of costume, many of them without coats, but all wore
the high black felt hat. Notwithstanding the peculiarity of their
attire, there was nothing ridiculous or contemptible in the appearance
of these men, who all looked thoroughly like "business." Colonel Duff
told me that many of the privates owned vast tracts of country, with
above a hundred slaves, and were extremely well off. They were all most
civil to me.

Their horses were rather raw-boned animals, but hardy and fast. The
saddles they used were nearly like the Mexican.

Colonel Duff confessed that the Mongomery affair was wrong, but he added
that his boys "_meant well_."

We reached Brownsville at 5.30 P.M., and Mr Ituria kindly insisted on my
sleeping at his house, instead of going to the crowded hotel.

[1] An ambulance is a light waggon, and generally has two springs
behind, and one transverse one in front. The seats can be so arranged
that two or even three persons may lie at full length.

       *       *       *       *       *

_3d April_ (Good Friday).--At 8 A.M. I got a military pass to cross the
Rio Grande into Mexico, which I presented to the sentry, who then
allowed me to cross in the ferry-boat.

Carriages are not permitted to run on Good Friday in Mexico, so I had a
hot dusty walk of more than a mile into Matamoros.

Mr Zorn, the acting British Consul, and Mr Behnsen, his partner, invited
me to live at the Consulate during my stay at Matamoros, and I accepted
their offer with much gratitude.

I was introduced to Mr Colville, a Manchester man; to Mr Maloney, one
of the principal merchants; to Mr Bennet, an Englishman, one of the
owners of the Peterhoff, who seemed rather elated than otherwise when he
heard of the capture of his vessel, as he said the case was such a gross
one that our Government would be obliged to take it up. I was also
presented to the gobernador, rather a rough.

After dining with Mr Zorn I walked back to the Rio Grande, which I was
allowed to cross on presenting Mr Colville's pass to the Mexican
soldiers, and I slept at Mr Ituria's again.

Brownsville is a straggling town of about 3000 inhabitants; most of its
houses are wooden ones, and its streets are long, broad, and straight.
There are about 4000 troops under General Bee in its immediate vicinity.
Its prosperity was much injured when Matamoros was declared a free port.

After crossing the Rio Grande, a wide dusty road, about a mile in
length, leads to Matamoros, which is a Mexican city of about 9000
inhabitants. Its houses are not much better than those at Brownsville,
and they bear many marks of the numerous revolutions which are
continually taking place there. Even the British Consulate is riddled
with the bullets fired in 1861-2.

The Mexicans look very much like their Indian forefathers, their faces
being extremely dark, and their hair black and straight. They wear hats
with the most enormous brims, and delight in covering their jackets and
leather breeches with embroidery.

Some of the women are rather good-looking, but they plaster their heads
with grease, and paint their faces too much. Their dress is rather like
the Andalucian. When I went to the cathedral, I found it crammed with
kneeling women; an effigy of our Saviour was being taken down from the
cross and put into a golden coffin, the priest haranguing all the time
about His sufferings, and all the women howling most dismally as if they
were being beaten.

Matamoros is now infested with numbers of Jews, whose industry spoils
the trade of the established merchants, to the great rage of the latter.

It suffers much from drought, and there had been no rain to speak of for
eleven months.

I am told that it is a common thing in Mexico for the diligence to
arrive at its destination with the blinds down. This is a sure sign that
the travellers, both male and female, have been stripped by robbers
nearly to the skin. A certain quantity of clothing is then, as a matter
of course, thrown in at the window, to enable them to descend. Mr
Behnsen and Mr Maloney told me they had seen this happen several times;
and Mr Oetling declared that he himself, with three ladies, arrived at
the city of Mexico in this predicament.

       *       *       *       *       *

_4th April_ (Saturday).--I crossed the river at 9 A.M., and got a
carriage at the Mexican side to take my baggage and myself to the
Consulate at Matamoros. The driver ill-treated his half-starved animals
most cruelly. The Mexicans are even worse than the Spaniards in this
respect.

I called on Mr Oetling, the Prussian Consul, who is one of the richest
and most prosperous merchants in Matamoros, and a very nice fellow.

After dinner we went to a _fandango_, or open-air fête. About 1500
people were gambling, and dancing bad imitations of European dances.

       *       *       *       *       *

_5th April_ (Sunday).--Mr Zorn, or Don Pablo as he is called here, Her
Majesty's acting Vice-Consul, is a quaint and most good-natured little
man--a Prussian by birth. He is overwhelmed by the sudden importance he
has acquired from his office, and by the amount of work (for which he
gets no pay) entailed by it,--the office of British Consul having been a
comparative sinecure before the war.

Mr Behnsen is head of the firm. The principal place of business is at
San Luis Potosi, a considerable city in the interior of Mexico. All
these foreign merchants complain bitterly of the persecutions and
extortion they have to endure from the Government, which are, doubtless,
most annoying; but nevertheless they appear to fatten on the Mexican
soil.

I crossed to Brownsville to see General Bee, but he had not returned
from Boca del Rio.

I dined with Mr Oetling. We were about fourteen at dinner, principally
Germans, a very merry party. Mr Oetling is supposed to have made a
million of dollars for his firm, by bold cotton speculations, since the
war.

We all went to the theatre afterwards. The piece was an attack upon the
French and upon Southern institutions.

       *       *       *       *       *

_6th April_ (Monday).--Mr Behnsen and Mr Colville left for Bagdad this
morning, in a very swell ambulance drawn by four gay mules.

At noon I crossed to Brownsville, and visited Captain Lynch, a
quartermaster, who broke open a great box, and presented me with a
Confederate felt hat to travel in. He then took me to the garrison, and
introduced me to Colonel Buchel of the 3d Texas Regiment, who is by
birth a German, but had served in the French army; and he prepared
cocktails in the most scientific manner. I returned to Matamoros at 2.30
P.M.

Captain Hancock and Mr Anderson (the paymaster) arrived from Bagdad in a
most miserable vehicle, at 4 P.M. They were a mass of dust, and had been
seven hours on the road, after having been very nearly capsized on the
bar.

There was a great firing of guns and squibs in the afternoon, in
consequence of the news of a total defeat of the French at Puebla, with
a loss of 8000 prisoners and 70 pieces of cannon.

Don Pablo, who had innocently hoisted his British flag in honour of
Captain Hancock, was accused by his brother merchants of making a
demonstration against the French.

After dinner we called on Mr Maloney, whose house is gorgeously
furnished, and who has a pretty wife.

       *       *       *       *       *

_7th April_ (Tuesday).--Mr Maloney sent us his carriage to conduct
Captain Hancock, Mr Anderson, and myself to Brownsville.

We first called on Colonels Luckett and Buchel; the former is a handsome
man, a doctor by profession, well informed and agreeable, but most
bitter against the Yankees.

We sat for an hour and a half talking with these officers and drinking
endless cocktails, which were rather good, and required five or six
different liquids to make them.

We then adjourned to General Bee's, with whom we had another long talk,
and with whom we discussed more cocktails.

At the General's we were introduced to a well-dressed good-looking
Englishman, Mr ----, who, however, announced to us that he had abjured
his nationality until Great Britain rendered justice to the South.[2]
Two years since, this individual had his house burnt down; and a few
days ago, happening to hear that one of the incendiaries was on the
Mexican bank of the river, boasting of the exploit, he rowed himself
across, shot his man, and then rowed back. I was told afterwards that,
notwithstanding the sentiments he had given out before us, Mr ---- is a
stanch Britisher, always ready to produce his six-shooter at a moment's
notice, at any insult to the Queen or to England.

We were afterwards presented to ----, rather a sinister-looking party,
with long yellow hair down to his shoulders. This is the man who is
supposed to have hanged Mongomery.

We were treated by all the officers with the greatest consideration,
and conducted to the place of embarkation with much ceremony. Colonel
Luckett declared I should not leave Brownsville until General Magruder
arrives. He is expected every day.

Mr Maloney afterwards told us that these officers, having given up
everything for their country, were many of them in great poverty. He
doubted whether ---- had a second pair of boots in the world; but he
added that, to do honour to British officers, they would scour
Brownsville for the materials for cocktails.

At 3 P.M. we dined with Mr Maloney, who is one of the principal and most
enterprising British merchants at Matamoros, and enjoyed his hospitality
till 9.30. His wine was good, and he made us drink a good deal of it. Mr
Oetling was there, and his stories of highway robberies, and of his
journeys _en chemise_, were most amusing.

At 10 P.M. Mr Oetling conducted us to the grand fandango given in honour
of the reported victory over the French.

A Mexican fandango resembles a French _ducasse_, with the additional
excitement of gambling. It commences at 9.30, and continues till
daylight. The scene is lit up by numerous paper lanterns of various
colours. A number of benches are placed so as to form a large square, in
the centre of which the dancing goes on, the men and women gravely
smoking all the time. Outside the benches is the promenade bounded by
the gambling-tables and drinking-booths. On this occasion there must
have been thirty or forty gambling-tables, some of the smaller ones
presided over by old women, and others by small boys.

Monté is the favourite game, and the smallest silver coin can be staked,
or a handful of doubloons. Most of these tables were patronised by
crowds of all classes intent on gambling, with grave, serious faces
under their enormous hats. They never moved a muscle, whether they won
or lost.

Although the number of people at these fandangos is very great, yet the
whole affair is conducted with an order and regularity not to be
equalled in an assembly of a much higher class in Europe. If there ever
is a row, it is invariably caused by Texans from Brownsville. These
turbulent spirits are at once seized and cooled in the calaboose.

[2] It seems he has been dreadfully "riled" by the late Peterhoff
affair.

       *       *       *       *       *

_8th April_ (Wednesday).--Poor Don Pablo was "taken ill" at breakfast,
and was obliged to go to bed. We were all much distressed at his
illness, which was brought on by over-anxiety connected with his
official duties; and the way he is bothered by English and
"Blue-nose"[3] skippers is enough to try any one.

Mr Behnsen and Mr Colville returned from Bagdad this afternoon, much
disgusted with the attractions of that city.

General Bee's orderly was assaulted in Matamoros yesterday by a renegado
with a six-shooter. This circumstance prevented the General from coming
to Matamoros as he had intended.

At 5 P.M. Captain Hancock and I crossed over to Brownsville, and were
conducted in a very smart ambulance to General Bee's quarters, and
afterwards to see a dress parade of the 3d Texas infantry.

Lieutenant-Colonel Buchel is the _working man_ of the corps, as he is a
professional soldier. The men were well clothed, though great variety
existed in their uniforms. Some companies wore blue, some grey, some had
French _kepis_, others wideawakes and Mexican hats. They were a fine
body of men, and really drilled uncommonly well. They went through a
sort of guard-mounting parade in a most creditable manner. About a
hundred out of a thousand were conscripts.[4]

After the parade, we adjourned to Colonel Luckett's to drink prosperity
to the 3d Regiment.

We afterwards had a very agreeable dinner with General Bee; Colonels
Luckett and Buchel dined also. The latter is a regular soldier of
fortune. He served in the French and Turkish armies, as also in the
Carlist and the Mexican wars, and I was told he had been a principal in
many affairs of honour; but he is a quiet and unassuming little man, and
although a sincere Southerner, is not nearly so violent against the
Yankees as Luckett.

At 10 P.M. Captain Hancock and myself went to a ball given by the
authorities of the "Heroica y invicta ciudad de Matamoros" (as they
choose to call it), in honour of the French defeat. General Bee and
Colonel Luckett also went to this fête, the invitation being the first
civility they had received since the violation of the Mexican soil in
the Davis-Mongomery affair. They were dressed in plain clothes, and
carried pistols concealed in case of accidents.

We all drove together from Brownsville to the Consulate, and entered the
ball-room _en masse_.

The outside of the municipal hall was lit up with some splendour, and
it was graced by a big placard, on which was written the amiable
sentiment, "_Muera Napoleon--viva Mejico!_" Semi-successful squibs and
crackers were let off at intervals. In the square also was a triumphal
arch, with an inscription to the effect that "the effete nations of
Europe might tremble." I made great friends with the gobernador and
administrador, who endeavoured to entice me into dancing, but I excused
myself by saying that Europeans were unable to dance in the graceful
Mexican fashion. Captain Hancock was much horrified when this
greasy-faced gobernador (who keeps a small shop) stated his intention of
visiting the Immortalité with six of his friends, and sleeping on board
for a night or two.

The dances were a sort of slow valse, and between the dances the girls
were planted up against the wall, and not allowed to be spoken to by any
one. They were mostly a plain-headed, badly-painted lot, and
ridiculously dressed.

[3] Nova-Scotian.

[4] During all my travels in the South I never saw a regiment so well
clothed or so well drilled as this one, which has never been in action,
or been exposed to much hardship.

       *       *       *       *       *

_9th April_ (Thursday).--Captain Hancock and Mr Anderson left for Bagdad
in Mr Behnsen's carriage at noon.

I crossed over to Brownsville at 11.30, and dined with Colonels
Luckett, Buchel, and Duff, at about one o'clock. As we were all
colonels, and as every one called the other colonel _tout court_, it was
difficult to make out which was meant. They were obliged to confess that
Brownsville was about the rowdiest town of Texas, which was the most
lawless state in the Confederacy; but they declared they had never seen
an inoffensive man subjected to insult or annoyance, although the
shooting-down and stringing-up systems are much in vogue, being almost a
necessity in a thinly-populated state, much frequented by desperadoes
driven away from more civilised countries.

Colonel Luckett gave me a letter to General Van Dorn, whom they consider
the _beau ideal_ of a cavalry soldier. They said from time immemorial
the Yankees had been despised by the Southerners, as a race inferior to
themselves in courage and in honourable sentiments.

At 3 P.M. Colonel Buchel and I rode to Colonel Duff's camp, distant
about thirteen miles. I was given a Mexican saddle, in which one is
forced to sit almost in a standing position. The stirrups are very long,
and right underneath you, which throws back the feet.

Duff's regiment is called the Partisan Rangers. Although a fine lot of
men, they don't look well at a foot parade, on account of the small
amount of drill they have undergone, and the extreme disorder of their
clothing. They are armed with carbines and six-shooters.

I saw some men come in from a scouting expedition against the Indians,
300 miles off. They told me they were usually in the habit of scalping
an Indian when they caught him, and that they never spared one, as they
were such an untamable and ferocious race. Another habit which they have
learned from the Indians is, to squat on their heels in a most peculiar
manner. It has an absurd and extraordinary effect to see a quantity of
them so squatting in a row or in a circle.

The regiment had been employed in quelling a counter revolution of
Unionists in Texas. Nothing could exceed the rancour with which they
spoke of these renegadoes, as they called them, who were principally
Germans.

When I suggested to some of the Texans that they might as well bury the
body of Mongomery a little better, they did not at all agree with me,
but said it ought not to have been buried at all, but left hanging as a
warning to other evil-doers.

With regard to the contentment of their slaves, Colonel Duff pointed out
a good number they had with them, who had only to cross the river for
freedom if they wished it.

Colonel Buchel and I slept in Colonel Duff's tent, and at night we were
_serenaded_. The officers and men really sang uncommonly well, and they
finished with "God save the Queen!"

Colonel Duff comes from Perth. He was one of the leading characters in
the secession of Texas; and he said his brother was a banker in Dunkeld.

       *       *       *       *       *

_10th April_ (Friday).--We roused up at daylight, and soon afterwards
Colonel Duff paraded some of his best men, to show off the Texan
horsemanship, of which they are very proud. I saw them lasso cattle, and
catch them by the tail at full gallop, and throw them by slewing them
round. This is called tailing. They pick small objects off the ground
when at full tilt, and, in their peculiar fashion, are beautiful riders;
but they confessed to me they could not ride in an English saddle, and
Colonel Duff told me that they could not jump a fence at all. They were
all extremely anxious to hear what I thought of the performance, and
their thorough good opinion of themselves was most amusing.

At 9 o'clock Colonel Buchel and I rode back to Brownsville; but as we
lost our way twice, and were enveloped in clouds of dust, it was not a
very satisfactory ride. Poor Captain Hancock must be luxuriating at
Bagdad; for with this wind the bar must be impassable to the boldest
mariner.

In the evening, a Mr ----, a Texan Unionist, or renegado, gave us his
sentiments at the Consulate, and drank a deal of brandy. He finished,
however, by the toast, "Them as wants to fight, let 'em fight--I don't."

       *       *       *       *       *

_11th April_ (Saturday).--Mr ----, the Unionist, came to me this
morning, and said, in a contrite manner, "I hope, Kernel, that in the
fumes of brandy I didn't say anything offensive last night." I assured
him that he hadn't. I have now become comparatively accustomed and
reconciled to the necessity of shaking hands and drinking brandy with
every one.[5]

The ambulance returned from Bagdad to-day. Captain Hancock had managed
to cross the bar in Mr Oetling's steamer or lighter, but was very nearly
capsized.

I went to a grand supper, given by Mr Oetling in honour of Mr Hill's
departure for the city of Mexico. This, it appears, is the custom of the
country.

[5] This necessity does not exist except in Texas.

       *       *       *       *       *

_12th April_ (Sunday).--I took an affectionate leave of Don Pablo,
Behnsen, Oetling, & Co., all of whom were in rather weak health on
account of last night's supper.

The excellent Maloney insisted on providing me with preserved meats and
brandy for my arduous journey through Texas. I feel extremely grateful
for the kindness of all these gentlemen, who rendered my stay in
Matamoros very agreeable. The hotel would have been intolerable.

I crossed to Brownsville at 3 P.M., where I was hospitably received by
my friend Ituria, who confesses to having made a deal of money lately by
cotton speculations. I attended evening parade, and saw General Bee,
Colonels Luckett, Buchel, Duff, and ----. The latter (who hanged
Mongomery) improves on acquaintance. General Bee took me for a drive in
his ambulance, and introduced me to Major Leon Smith, who captured the
Harriet Lane. The latter pressed me most vehemently to wait until
General Magruder's arrival, and he promised, if I did so, that I should
be sent to San Antonio in a first-rate ambulance. Major Leon Smith is a
seafaring man by profession, and was put by General Magruder in command
of one of the small steamers which captured the Harriet Lane at
Galveston, the crews of the steamers being composed of Texan cavalry
soldiers. He told me that the resistance offered after boarding was
feeble; and he declared that, had not the remainder of the Yankee
vessels escaped unfairly under flag of truce, they would likewise have
been taken.

After the Harriet Lane had been captured, she was fired into by the
other ships; and Major Smith told me that, his blood being up, he sent
the ex-master of the Harriet Lane to Commodore Renshaw, with a message
that, unless the firing was stopped, he would _massa_CREE the captured
crew. After hearing this, Commodore Renshaw blew up his ship, with
himself in her, after having given an order to the remainder, _sauve qui
peut_.

       *       *       *       *       *

_13th April_ (Monday).--I breakfasted with General Bee, and took leave
of all my Brownsville friends.

M'Carthy is to give me four times the value of my gold in Confederate
notes.[6]

We left Brownsville for San Antonio at 11 A.M. Our vehicle was a roomy,
but rather over-loaded, four-wheel carriage, with a canvass roof, and
four mules. Besides M'Carthy, there was a third passenger, in the shape
of a young merchant of the Hebrew persuasion. Two horses were to join
us, to help us through the deep sand.

The country, on leaving Brownsville, is quite flat, the road, a natural
one, sandy and very dusty, and there are many small trees, principally
mosquites. After we had proceeded seven miles, we halted to water the
mules.

At 2 P.M. a new character appeared upon the scene, in the shape of an
elderly, rough-faced, dirty-looking man, who rode up, mounted on a sorry
nag. To my surprise he was addressed by M'Carthy with the title of
"Judge," and asked what he had done with our other horse. The judge
replied that it had already broken down, and had been left behind.
M'Carthy informs me that this worthy really is a magistrate or sort of
judge in his own district; but he now appears in the capacity of
assistant mule-driver, and is to make himself generally useful. I could
not help feeling immensely amused at this specimen of a Texan judge. We
started again about 3 P.M., and soon emerged from the mosquite bushes
into an open prairie eight miles long, quite desolate, and producing
nothing but a sort of rush; after which we entered a chaparal, or thick
covert of mosquite trees and high prickly pears. These border the track,
and are covered with bits of cotton torn from the endless trains of
cotton waggons. We met several of these waggons. Generally there were
ten oxen or six mules to a waggon carrying ten bales, but in deep sand
more animals are necessary. They journey very slowly towards
Brownsville, from places in the interior of Texas at least five hundred
miles distant. Want of water and other causes make the drivers and
animals undergo much hardship.

The judge rides on in front of us on his "Rosinante," to encourage the
mules. His back view reminds one in a ludicrous manner of the pictures
of Dr Syntax.

Mr Sargent, our portly driver, cheers his animals by the continual
repetition of the sentence, "Get up, now, you great long-eared G----d
d----d son of a ----."

At 5 P.M. we reached a well, with a farm or ranch close to it. Here we
halted for the night. A cotton train was encamped close to us, and a
lugubrious half-naked teamster informed us that three of his oxen had
been stolen last night.

In order to make a fire, we were forced to enter the chaparal for wood,
and in doing so we ran many prickles into our legs, which caused us
great annoyance afterwards, as they fester, if not immediately pulled
out.

The water at this well was very salt, and made very indifferent coffee.
M'Carthy called it the "meanest halting-place we shall have."

At 8 P.M. M'Carthy spread a bullock-rug on the sand near the carriage,
on which we should have slept very comfortably, had it not been for the
prickles, the activity of many fleas, and the incursions of wild hogs.
Mr Sargent and the Judge, with much presence of mind, had encamped
seventy yards off, and left to us the duty of driving away these hogs. I
was twice awoke by one of these unclean animals breathing in my face.

We did about twenty-one miles to-day.

[6] The value of Confederate paper has since decreased. At Charleston I
was offered six to one for my gold, and at Richmond eight to one.

       *       *       *       *       *

_14th April_ (Tuesday).--When we roused up at 4 A.M. we found our
clothes saturated with the heavy dew; also that, notwithstanding our
exertions, the hogs had devoured the greatest part of our pet kid, our
only fresh meat.

After feeding our mules upon the Indian corn we had brought with us, and
drinking a little more salt-water coffee, the Judge "hitched in," and we
got under way at 5.30 A.M. The country just the same as yesterday--a
dead level of sand, mosquite trees, and prickly pears.

At 7.30 A.M. we reached "Leatham's ranch," and watered our mules. As the
water was tolerable, we refilled our water-barrels. I also washed my
face, during which operation Mr Sargent expressed great astonishment,
not unmingled with contempt.

At Leatham's we met a wealthy Texan speculator and contractor called
Major or Judge Hart.

I find that _our_ Judge is also an M.P., and that, in his capacity as a
member of the Texan legislature, he is entitled to be styled the
Honourable ---- ----.

At 9 A.M. we halted in the middle of a prairie, on which there was a
little grass for the mules, and we prepared to eat. In the midst of our
cooking, two deer came up quite close to us, and could easily have been
killed with rifles.

We saw quantities of rat-ranches, which are big sort of mole-hills,
composed of cow-dung, sticks, and earth, built by the rats.

Mr Sargent, our conductor, is a very rough customer--a fat, middle-aged
man, who never opens his mouth without an oath, strictly American in its
character. He and the judge are always snarling at one another, and both
are much addicted to liquor.

We live principally on bacon and coffee, but as the water and the bacon
are both very salt, this is very inconvenient. We have, however, got
some claret, and plenty of brandy.

During the mid-day halts Mr Sargent is in the habit of cooling himself
by removing his trousers (or pants), and, having gorged himself, he lies
down and issues his edicts to the judge as to the treatment of the
mules.

At 2.30 the M.P. hitched in again, and at 2.45 we reached a salt-water
arm of the sea called the "Aroyo del Colorado," about eighty yards
broad, which we crossed in a ferry-boat. Half an hour later we "struck
water" again, which, being superior to Leatham's, we filled up.

We are continually passing cotton trains going to Brownsville, also
government waggons with stores for the interior. Near every well is a
small farm or ranch, a miserable little wooden edifice surrounded by a
little cultivation. The natives all speak Spanish, and wear the Mexican
dress.

M'Carthy is very proud of his knowledge of the country, in spite of
which he is often out in his calculations. The different tracks are so
similar to one another, they are easily mistaken.

At 4.45 P.M. we halted at a much better place than yesterday. We are
obliged to halt where a little grass can be found for our mules.

Soon after we had unpacked for the night, six Texan Rangers, of "Wood's"
regiment, rode up to us. They were very picturesque fellows; tall, thin,
and ragged, but quite gentlemanlike in their manners.

We are always to sleep in the open until we arrive at San Antonio, and I
find my Turkish lantern most useful at night.[7]

[7] A lantern for a candle, made of white linen and wire, which
collapses when not in use. They are always used in the streets of
Constantinople. The Texans admired it immensely.

       *       *       *       *       *

_15th April_ (Wednesday).--I slept well last night in spite of the tics
and fleas, and we started at 5.30 P.M. After passing a dead rattlesnake
eight feet long, we reached water at 7 A.M.

At 9 A.M. we espied the cavalcade of General Magruder passing us by a
parallel track about half a mile distant. M'Carthy and I jumped out of
the carriage, and I ran across the prairie to cut him off, which I just
succeeded in doing by borrowing the spare horse of the last man in the
train.

I galloped up to the front, and found the General riding with a lady who
was introduced to me as Mrs ----, an undeniably pretty woman, wife to an
officer on Magruder's staff, and she is naturally the object of intense
attention to all the good-looking officers who accompany the General
through this desert.

General Magruder, who commands in Texas, is a fine soldierlike man, of
about fifty-five, with broad shoulders, a florid complexion, and bright
eyes. He wears his whiskers and mustaches in the English fashion, and he
was dressed in the Confederate grey uniform. He was kind enough to beg
that I would turn back and accompany him in his tour through Texas. He
had heard of my arrival, and was fully determined I should do this. He
asked after several officers of my regiment whom he had known when he
was on the Canadian frontier. He is a Virginian, a great talker, and has
always been a great ally of English officers.

He insisted that M'Carthy and I should turn and dine with him,
promising to provide us with horses to catch up Mr Sargent.

After we had agreed to do this, I had a long and agreeable conversation
with the General, who spoke of the Puritans with intense disgust, and of
the first importation of them as "_that pestiferous crew of the
Mayflower_;" but he is by no means rancorous against individual Yankees.
He spoke very favourably of M'Clellan, whom he knew to be a gentleman,
clever, and personally brave, though he might lack moral courage to face
responsibility. Magruder had commanded the Confederate troops at
Yorktown which opposed M'Clellan's advance. He told me the different
dodges he had resorted to, to blind and deceive the latter as to his
(Magruder's) strength; and he spoke of the intense relief and amusement
with which he had at length seen M'Clellan with his magnified army begin
to break ground before miserable earthworks, defended only by 8000 men.
Hooker was in his regiment, and was "essentially a mean man and a liar."
Of Lee and Longstreet he spoke in terms of the highest admiration.

Magruder was an artilleryman, and has been a good deal in Europe; and
having been much stationed on the Canadian frontier, he became
acquainted with many British officers, particularly those in the 7th
Hussars and Guards.

He had gained much credit from his recent successes at Galveston and
Sabine Pass, in which he had the temerity to attack heavily-armed
vessels of war with wretched river steamers manned by Texan cavalrymen.

His principal reason for visiting Brownsville was to settle about the
cotton trade. He had issued an edict that half the value of cotton
exported must be imported in goods for the benefit of the country
(government stores). The President had condemned this order as illegal
and despotic.

The officers on Magruder's Staff are a very good-looking, gentlemanlike
set of men. Their names are--Major Pendleton, Major Wray, Captain De
Ponté, Captain Alston, Captain Turner, Lieutenant-Colonel M'Neil,
Captain Dwyer, Dr Benien, Lieutenant Stanard, Lieutenant Yancey, and
Major Magruder. The latter is nephew to the General, and is a
particularly good-looking young fellow. They all live with their chief
on an extremely agreeable footing, and form a very pleasant society. At
dinner I was put in the post of honour, which is always fought for with
much acrimony--viz., the right of Mrs ----. After dinner we had numerous
songs. Both the General and his nephew sang; so also did Captain Alston,
whose corpulent frame, however, was too much for the feeble camp-stool,
which caused his sudden disappearance in the midst of a song with a loud
crash. Captain Dwyer played the fiddle very well, and an aged and
slightly-elevated militia general brewed the punch and made several
"elegant" speeches. The latter was a rough-faced old hero, and gloried
in the name of M'Guffin. On these festive occasions General Magruder
wears a red woollen cap, and fills the president's chair with great
aptitude.

It was 11.30 before I could tear myself away from this agreeable party;
but at length I effected my exit amidst a profusion of kind expressions,
and laden with heaps of letters of introduction.

       *       *       *       *       *

_16th April_ (Thursday).--Now our troubles commenced. Seated in Mexican
saddles, and mounted on raw-boned mustangs, whose energy had been a good
deal impaired by a month's steady travelling on bad food, M'Carthy and I
left the hospitable mess-tent about midnight, and started in search of
Mr Sargent and his vehicle. We were under the guidance of two Texan
rangers.

About daylight we hove in sight of "Los Animos," a desolate farmhouse,
in the neighbourhood of which Mr Sargent was supposed to be encamped;
but nowhere could we find any traces of him.

We had now reached the confines of a dreary region, sixty miles in
extent, called "The Sands," in comparison with which the prairie and
chaparal were luxurious.

The sand being deep and the wind high, we could not trace the carriage;
but we soon acquired a certainty that our perfidious Jehu had decamped,
leaving us behind.

We floundered about in the sand, cursing our bad luck, cursing Mr
Sargent, and even the good Magruder, as the indirect cause of our
wretchedness. Our situation, indeed, was sufficiently deplorable. We
were without food or water in the midst of a desert: so were our horses,
which were nearly done up. Our bones ached from the Mexican saddles;
and, to complete our misery, the two rangers began to turn restive and
talk of returning with the horses. At this, the climax of our
misfortunes, I luckily hit upon a Mexican, who gave us intelligence of
our carriage; and with renewed spirits, but very groggy horses, we gave
chase.

But never did Mr Sargent's mules walk at such a pace; and it was 9 A.M.
before we overtook them. My animal had been twice on his head, and
M'Carthy was green in the face with fatigue and rage. Mr Sargent
received us with the greatest affability; and we were sensible enough
not to quarrel with him, although M'Carthy had made many allusions as to
the advisability of shooting him.

We had been nine and a half hours in the saddle, and were a good deal
exhausted. Our sulky Texan guides were appeased with bacon, coffee, and
$5 in coin.

We halted till 2 P.M., and then renewed our struggle through the deep
sandy wilderness; but though the services of the Judge's horse were put
into requisition, we couldn't progress faster than two miles an hour.

Mule-driving is an art of itself, and Mr Sargent is justly considered a
_professor_ at it.

He is always yelling--generally imprecations of a serio-comic
character. He rarely flogs his mules; but when one of them rouses his
indignation by extraordinary laziness, he roars out, "Come here, Judge,
with a big club, and give him h----ll." Whilst the animal is receiving
such discipline as comes up to the judge's idea of the infernal regions,
Mr Sargent generally remarks, "I wish you was Uncle Abe, I'd make you
move, you G----d d----n son of a ----." His idea of perfect happiness
seems to be to have Messrs Lincoln and Seward in the shafts. Mules
travel much better when other mules are in front of them; and another
dodge to which Mr Sargent continually resorts is, to beat the top of the
carriage and kick the foot-board, which makes a noise, and gratifies the
mules quite as much as licking them. Mr Sargent accounts for his
humanity by saying, "It's the worst plan in the world licking niggers or
mules, because the more you licks 'em, the more they wants it."

We reached or "struck" water at 5.30 P.M.; but, in spite of its good
reputation, it was so salt as to be scarcely drinkable. A number of
cotton waggons, and three carriages belonging to Mr Ward, were also
encamped with us.

We have only made sixteen miles to-day.

       *       *       *       *       *

_17th April_ (Friday).--Having spent last night in a Mexican saddle, our
bullock-rug in the sand appeared to me a most luxurious bed.

We hitched in at 5 A.M., and struck water at 9 A.M., which, though muddy
in appearance, was not so bad to drink.

I walked ahead with the Judge, who, when sober, is a well-informed and
sensible man. Mr Sargent and I are great friends, and, rough as he is,
we get on capitally together.

A Mr Ward, with three vehicles--a rival of Mr Sargent's--is travelling
in our company. He drove his buggy against a tree and knocked its top
off, to the intense delight of the latter.

We breakfasted under difficulties. The wind being high, it drove up the
sand in clouds and spoiled our food.

Our travelling companion, Mr ----, is a poor little weakly Israelite,
but very inoffensive, although he speaks with a horrible Yankee twang,
which Mr Sargent and the Judge are singularly free from.

We went on again at 2 P.M. I had a long talk with a big mulatto slave
woman, who was driving one of Ward's waggons. She told me she had been
raised in Tennessee, and that three years ago she had been taken from
her mistress for a bad debt, to their mutual sorrow. "Both," she said,
"cried bitterly at parting." She doesn't like San Antonio at all, "too
much hanging and murdering for me," she said. She had seen a man hanged
in the middle of the day, just in front of her door.

Mr Sargent bought two chickens and some eggs at a ranch, but one of the
chickens got up a tree, and was caught and eaten by the Ward faction.
Our camp to-night looks very pretty by the light of the fires.

       *       *       *       *       *

_18th April_ (Saturday).--At daylight we discovered, to our horror, that
three of our mules were absent; but after an hour's search they were
brought back in triumph by the Judge.

This delayed our start till 6.30 A.M.

I walked ahead again with the Judge, who explained to me that he was a
"senator," or member of the Upper House of Texas--"just like your House
of Lords," he said. He gets $5 a-day whilst sitting, and is elected for
four years.[8]

We struck water at 8.30 A.M., and bought a lamb for a dollar. We also
bought some beef, which in this country is dried in strips by the sun,
after being cut off the bullock, and it keeps good for any length of
time. To cook it, the strips are thrown for a few minutes on hot embers.

One of our mules was kicked last night. Mr Sargent rubbed the wound with
brandy, which did it much good.

Soon after leaving this well, Mr Sargent discovered that, by following
the track of Mr Ward's waggons, he had lost the way. He swore
dreadfully, and solaced himself with so much gin, that when we arrived
at Sulphur Creek at 12.30, both he and the Judge were, by their own
confession, _quite tight_.

We halted, ate some salt meat, and bathed in this creek, which is about
forty yards broad and three feet deep.

Mr Sargent's extreme "tightness" caused him to fall asleep on the box
when we started again, but the more seasoned Judge drove the mules.

The signs of getting out of the sands now began to be apparent; and at
5 P.M. we were able to halt at a very decent place with grass, but _no
water_. We suffered here for want of water, our stock being very nearly
expended.

Mr Sargent, who was now comparatively sober, killed the sheep most
scientifically at 5.30 P.M.; and at 6.30 we were actually devouring it,
and found it very good. Mr Sargent cooked it by the simple process of
stewing junks of it in a frying-pan, but we had only just enough water
to do this.

[8] I was afterwards told that the Judge's term of service had expired.
El Paso was his district.

       *       *       *       *       *

_19th April_ (Sunday).--At 1 A.M. this morning, our slumbers on the
bullock-rug were disturbed by a sudden and most violent thunderstorm.
M'Carthy and I had only just time to rush into the carriage, and hustle
our traps underneath it, when the rain began to descend in torrents.

We got inside with the little Jew (who was much alarmed by the thunder);
whilst Mr Sargent and the Judge crept underneath.

The rain lasted two hours; and at daylight we were able to refresh
ourselves by drinking the water from the puddles, and effect a start.

But fate seemed adverse to our progress. No sooner had we escaped from
the sand than we fell into the mud, which was still worse.

We toiled on till 11.30 A.M., at which hour we reached "_King's
Ranch_," which for several days I had heard spoken of as a sort of
Elysium, marking as it does the termination of the sands, and the
commencement of comparative civilisation.

We halted in front of the house, and after cooking and eating, I walked
up to the "ranch," which is a comfortable, well-furnished wooden
building.

Mr and Mrs King had gone to Brownsville; but we were received by Mrs
Bee, the wife of the Brownsville general, who had heard I was on the
road.

She is a nice lively little woman, a red-hot Southerner, glorying in the
facts that she has no Northern relations or friends, and that she is a
member of the Church of England.

Mr King first came to Texas as a steamboat captain, but now owns an
immense tract of country, with 16,000 head of cattle, situated, however,
in a wild and almost uninhabited district. King's Ranch is distant from
Brownsville only 125 miles, and we have been six days in reaching it.

After drying our clothes and our food after the rain of last night, we
started again at 2.30 P.M.

We now entered a boundless and most fertile prairie, upon which, as far
as the eye could reach, cattle were feeding.

Bulls and cows, horses and mares, came to stare at us as we passed.
They all seemed sleek and in good condition, yet they get nothing but
what they can pick up on the prairie.

I saw a man on horseback kill a rabbit with his revolver. I also saw a
scorpion for the first time.

We halted at 5.30 P.M., and had to make our fire principally of
cow-dung, as wood is very scarce on this prairie.

We gave up the Judge's horse at King's Ranch. The lawgiver now rides on
the box with Mr Sargent.

       *       *       *       *       *

_20th April_ (Monday).--I slept well last night in spite of the numerous
prairie-wolves which surrounded us, making a most dismal noise.

The Jew was ill again, but both Mr Sargent and the Judge were very kind
to him; so also was M'Carthy, who declared that a person incapable of
protecting himself, and sickly, such as this little Jew, is always sure
of kind treatment and compassion, even from the wildest Texans.

We started at 5 A.M., and had to get through some dreadful mud--Mr
Sargent in an awful bad humour, and using terrific language.

We were much delayed by this unfortunate rain, which had converted a
good road into a quagmire. We detected a rattlesnake crawling along this
morning but there are not nearly so many of them in this country as
there used to be.

We halted at 9 A.M., and, to make a fire for cooking, we set a rat-ranch
alight, which answered very well; but one big rat, annoyed by our
proceedings, emerged hastily from his den, and very nearly jumped into
the frying-pan.

Two Texan rangers, belonging to Taylor's regiment, rode up to us whilst
we were at breakfast. These rangers all wear the most enormous spurs I
ever saw.

We resumed our journey at 12.30, and reached a creek[9] called "Agua
Dulce" at 2 P.M. M'Carthy and I got out before crossing to forage at
some huts close by. We got two dozen eggs and some lard; but, on
returning to the road, we found that Mr Sargent had pursued his usual
plan of leaving us in the lurch.

I luckily was able to get hold of a Mexican boy, and rode across the
creek _en croupe_. M'Carthy dismounted a negro, and so got over.

We halted at 5 P.M.

After dark M'Carthy crossed the prairie to visit some friends who were
encamped half a mile distant. He lost his way in returning, and wandered
about for several hours. The Judge, with great presence of mind, kept
the fire up, and he found us at last.

The heat from nine to two is pretty severe; but in Texas there is
generally a cool sea-breeze, which makes it bearable.

[9] All streams or rivers are called creeks, and pronounced "criks."

       *       *       *       *       *

_21st April_ (Tuesday).--We started at 5 A.M., and reached a hamlet
called "Casa Blanca" at 6. We procured a kid, some Indian corn, and two
fowls in this neighbourhood.

We had now quitted the flat country, and entered an undulating or
"rolling" country, full of live oaks of very respectable size, and we
had also got out of the mud.

Mr Sargent and the Judge got drunk again about 8 A.M., which, however,
had a beneficial effect upon the speed. We descended the hills at a
terrific pace--or, as Mr Sargent expressed it, "_Going like h----ll
a-beating tan bark_."

We "nooned it" at a small creek; and after unhitching, Mr Sargent and
the Judge had a row with one another, after which Mr Sargent killed and
cooked the goat, using my knife for these operations. With all his
faults he certainly is a capital butcher, cook, and mule-driver. He
takes great care of his animals, and is careful to inform us that the
increased pace we have been going at is not attributable to gin.

He was very complimentary to me, because I acted as assistant cook and
butcher.

Mr Ward's party passed us about 1 P.M. The front wheels of his buggy
having now smashed, it is hitched in rear of one of the waggons.

We made a pretty good afternoon's drive through a wood of post oaks,
where we saw another rattlesnake, which we tried to shoot.

We halted at Spring creek at 6.30 P.M.; water rather brackish, and no
grass for the mules.

The Judge gave us some of his experiences as a filibuster. He declares
that a well-cooked polecat is as good to eat as a pig, and that stewed
rattlesnake is not so bad as might be supposed. The Texans call the
Mexicans "greasers," the latter retort by the name "gringo."

We are now living luxuriously upon eggs and goat's flesh; and I think we
have made about thirty-two miles to-day.

       *       *       *       *       *

_22d April_ (Wednesday).--We got under weigh at 5 A.M., the mules
looking rather mean for want of grass.

At 8 A.M. we reached the Nueces river, the banks of which are very
steep, and are bordered with a beautiful belt of live oak-trees, covered
with mustang grapes.

On the other side of the Nueces is "Oakville," a miserable settlement,
consisting of about twenty wooden huts. We bought some butter there, and
caught up Ward's waggons. The women at Oakville were most anxious to buy
snuff. It appears that the Texan females are in the habit of dipping
snuff--which means, putting it into their mouths instead of their noses.
They rub it against their teeth with a blunted stick.

We reached grass about 10 A.M., and "nooned it," the weather being very
trying--very sultry, without sun or wind.

We hitched in at 1.15--Ward's waggons in our front, and a Frenchman's
four-horse team in our rear. At 4 P.M. we reached the "Weedy," a creek
which, to our sorrow, was perfectly dry. We drove on till 7 P.M., and
halted at some good grass. There being a report of water in the
neighbourhood, Mr Sargent, the Judge, Ward, and the Frenchman, started
to explore; and when, at length, they did discover a wretched little
mud-hole, it appears that a desperate conflict for the water ensued, for
the Judge returned to us a mass of mud, and presenting a very
crestfallen appearance. Shortly after, Mr Sargent appeared, in such a
bad humour that he declined to cook, to eat, to drink, or do anything
but swear vehemently.

Deprived by this contretemps of our goat's flesh we had recourse to an
old ham and very stale bread.

We met many cotton trains and government waggons to-day, and I think we
have progressed about thirty-four miles.

       *       *       *       *       *

_23d April_ (Thursday).--The wily Mr Sargent drove the animals down to
the mud-hole in the middle of last night, and so stole a march upon
Ward.

Our goat's flesh having spoiled, had to be thrown away this morning. We
started at 5.30 A.M., and reached "Rocky" at 7.30; but before this two
of Ward's horses had "_caved in_," which completely restored our
driver's good-humour.

Rocky consists of two huts in the midst of a stony country; and about a
mile beyond it we reached a pond, watered our mules, and filled our
barrels. The water was very muddy to look at, but not bad to drink.

The mules were lazy to-day; and Mr Sargent was forced to fill his bucket
with stones, and pelt the leaders occasionally.

At 8 A.M. we reached an open, undulating prairie, and halted at 10.30.
Mr Sargent and I killed and cooked the two chickens.

He has done me the honour to call me a "right good companion for the
road." He also told me that at one time he kept a hotel at El Paso--a
sort of half-way house on the overland route to California--and was
rapidly making his fortune when the war totally ruined him. This
accounts for his animosity to "Uncle Abe."[10]

We hitched in again at 3 P.M., and after pushing through some deepish
sand, we halted for the night only twenty-four miles from San Antonio.
No corn or water, but plenty of grass; our food, also, was now entirely
expended. Mr Ward struggled up at 8.15, making a desperate effort to
keep up with us, and this rivalry between Sargent and him was of great
service.

This was our last night of camping out, and I felt almost sorry for it,
for I have enjoyed the journey in spite of the hardships. The country
through which I have passed would be most fertile and productive (at
least the last 150 miles), were it not for the great irregularity of the
seasons. Sometimes there is hardly any rain for two and three years
together.

[10] General Longstreet remembered both Sargent and the Judge perfectly,
and he was much amused by my experiences with these worthies. General
Longstreet had been quartered on the Texan frontiers a long time when he
was in the old army.--August 1863.

       *       *       *       *       *

_24th April_ (Friday).--We made a start at 4.15 A.M., and with the
assistance of M'Carthy, we managed to lose our way; but at 6.15 a loud
cheer from the box, of "Hoorraw for h----ll! who's afraid of fire?"
proclaimed that Mr Sargent had come in sight of Grey's ranch.

After buying some eggs and Indian corn there, we crossed the deep bed of
the river San Antonio. Its banks are very steep and picturesque.

We halted immediately beyond, to allow the mules to feed for an hour. A
woman was murdered at a ranch close by some time ago, and five bad
characters were put to death at San Antonio by the vigilance committee
on suspicion.

We crossed the Selado river at 11, and nooned it in its neighbourhood.

Mr Sargent and the Judge finished the gin; and the former, being rather
drunk, entertained us with a detailed description of his treatment of a
refractory negro girl, which, by his own account, must have been very
severe. M'Carthy was much disgusted at the story.[11]

After bathing in the Selado, Mr Sargent, being determined to beat Ward,
pushed on for San Antonio; and we drew up before Menger's hotel at 3
P.M., our mules dead beat--our driver having fulfilled his promise of
"making his long-eared horses howl."

Later in the day I walked through the streets with M'Carthy to his
store, which is a very large building, but now desolate, everything
having been sold off. He was of course greeted by his numerous friends,
and amongst others I saw a negro come up to him, shake hands, and
welcome him back.

I was introduced to Colonel Duff's brother, who is also a very
good-looking man; but he has not thrown off his British nationality and
become a "citizen."

The distance from Brownsville to San Antonio is 330 miles, and we have
been 11 days and 4 hours _en route_.

[11] However happy and well off the slaves may be as a general rule, yet
there must be many instances (like that of Mr Sargent) of ill-treatment
and cruelty. Mr Sargent is a Northerner by birth, and is without any of
the kind feeling which is nearly always felt by Southerners for
negroes.--July 1863.

       *       *       *       *       *

_25th April_ (Saturday).--San Antonio is prettily situated on both banks
of the river of the same name. It should contain about 10,000
inhabitants, and is the largest place in Texas, except Galveston.

The houses are well built of stone, and they are generally only one or
two storeys high. All have verandahs in front.

Before the war San Antonio was very prosperous, and rapidly increasing
in size; but trade is now almost at a complete stand-still. All the male
population under forty are in the military service, and many necessary
articles are at famine prices. Coffee costs $7 a lb.

Menger's hotel is a large and imposing edifice, but its proprietor (a
civil German) was on the point of shutting it up for the present.

During the morning I visited Colonel Bankhead, a tall, gentlemanlike
Virginian, who was commanding officer of the troops here. He told me a
great deal about the Texan history, the Jesuit missions, and the
Louisiana purchase, &c.; and he alarmed me by doubting whether I should
be able to cross the Mississippi if Banks had taken Alexandria.

I also made the acquaintance of Major Minter, another Virginian, who
told me he had served in the 2d cavalry in the old United States army.
The following officers in the Confederate army were in the same
regiment--viz., General A.S. Johnston (killed at Shiloh), General Lee,
General Van Dorn, General Hardee, General Kirby Smith, and General
Hood.[12]

By the advice of M'Carthy, I sent my portmanteau and some of my heavy
things to be sold by auction, as I could not possibly carry them with
me.

I took my place by the stage for Alleyton (Houston): it cost $40; in old
times it was $13.

I dined with M'Carthy and young Duff at 3 P.M. The latter would not
hear of my paying my share of the expenses of the journey from
Brownsville. Mrs M'Carthy was thrown into a great state of agitation and
delight by receiving a letter from her mother, who is in Yankeedom.
Texas is so cut off that she only hears once in many months.

Colonel and Mrs Bankhead called for me in their ambulance at 5 P.M., and
they drove me to see the source of the San Antonio, which is the most
beautiful clear spring I ever saw. We also saw the extensive foundations
for a tannery now being built by the Confederate Government.

The country is very pretty, and is irrigated in an ingenious manner by
ditches cut from the river in all directions. It is thus in a great
degree rendered independent of rain.

At San Antonio spring we were entertained by a Major Young, a queer
little naval officer,--why a major I couldn't discover.

Mrs Bankhead is a violent Southerner. She was twice ordered out of
Memphis by the Federals on account of her husband's principles; but she
says that she was treated with courtesy and kindness by the Federal
General Sherman, who carried out the orders of his Government with
regret.

None of the Southern people with whom I have spoken entertain any hopes
of a speedy termination of the war. They say it must last all Lincoln's
presidency, and perhaps a good deal longer.

In the neighbourhood of San Antonio, one-third of the population is
German, and many of them were at first by no means loyal to the
Confederate cause. They objected much to the conscription, and some even
resisted by force of arms; but these were soon settled by Duff's
regiment, and it is said they are now reconciled to the new regime.

My portmanteau, with what was in it--for I gave away part of my
things--sold for $323. Its value in England couldn't have been more than
£8 or £9. The portmanteau itself, which was an old one, fetched $51; a
very old pair of butcher boots, $32; five shirts $42; an old overcoat
$25.

[12] Also the Federal Generals Thomas and Stoneman.

       *       *       *       *       *

_26th April_ (Sunday).--At 11.30 A.M., M'Carthy drove me in his buggy to
see the San Pedro spring, which is inferior in beauty to the San Antonio
spring. A troop of Texan cavalry was bivouacked there.

We afterwards drove to the "_missions_" of San José and San Juan, six
and nine miles from the town. These were fortified convents for the
conversion of the Indians, and were built by the Jesuits about one
hundred and seventy years ago. They are now ruins, and the architecture
is of the heavy Castilian style, elaborately ornamented. These missions
are very interesting, and there are two more of them, which I did not
see.

In the afternoon I saw many negroes and negresses parading about in
their Sunday clothes--silks and crinolines--much smarter than their
mistresses.

At 5 P.M. I dined with Colonel Bankhead, who gave an entertainment,
which in these hard times must have cost a mint of money. About fourteen
of the principal officers were invited; one of them was Captain Mason
(cousin to the London commissioner), who had served under Stonewall
Jackson in Virginia. He said that officer was by no means popular _at
first_. I spent a very agreeable evening, and heard many anecdotes of
the war. One of the officers sang the Abolition song, "John Brown,"
together with its parody, "I'm bound to be a soldier in the army of the
South," a Confederate marching-song, and another parody, which is a
Yankee marching-song, "We'll hang Jeff Davis on a sour-apple tree."

Whenever I have dined with Confederate officers they have nearly always
proposed the Queen's health, and never failed to pass the highest
eulogiums upon Her Majesty.

       *       *       *       *       *

_27th April_ (Monday).--Colonel Bankhead has given me letters of
introduction to General Bragg, to General Leonidas Polk, and several
others.

At 2 P.M. I called on Mrs Bankhead to say good-bye. She told me that her
husband had two brothers in the Northern service--one in the army and
the other in the navy. The two army brothers were both in the battles of
Shiloh and Perryville, on opposite sides. The naval Bankhead commanded
the Monitor when she sank.

---- introduced me to a German militia General in a beer-house this
afternoon. These two had a slight dispute, as the latter spoke strongly
in disapproval of "_secret or night lynching_."

The recent escapade of Captain Peñaloso seems to have been much
condemned in San Antonio. This individual (formerly a butcher) hanged
one of his soldiers a short time ago, on his own responsibility, for
desertion and stealing a musket. This event came off at 12 o'clock noon,
in the principal plaça of the city. The tree has been cut down, to show
the feelings of the citizens.

There can be no doubt that the enforcement of the conscription has, as
a general rule, been extremely easy throughout the Confederacy (except
among the Germans); but I hear of many persons evading it, by getting
into some sort of government employment--such as contractors, agents, or
teamsters to the Rio Grande. To my extreme regret I took leave of my
friend M'Carthy this evening, whose hospitality and kindness I shall
never forget.

I left San Antonio by _stage_ for Alleyton at 9 P.M. The stage was an
old coach, into the interior of which nine persons were crammed on three
transverse seats, besides many others on the roof. I was placed on the
centre seat, which was extremely narrow, and I had nothing but a strap
to support my back. An enormously fat German was my _vis-à-vis_, and a
long-legged Confederate officer was in my rear.

Our first team consisted of four mules; we afterwards got horses.

My fellow-travellers were all either military men, or connected with the
Government.

_Only five_ out of nine chewed tobacco during the night; but they aimed
at the windows with great accuracy, and didn't _splash_ me. The amount
of sleep I got, however, was naturally very trifling.

       *       *       *       *       *

_28th April_ (Tuesday).--We crossed the river Guadalupe at 5 A.M., and
got a change of horses.

We got a very fair breakfast at Seguin at 7 A.M., which was beginning
to be a well-to-do little place when the war dried it up.

It commenced to rain at Seguin, which made the road very woolly, and
annoyed the outsiders a good deal.

The conversation turned a good deal upon military subjects, and all
agreed that the system of election of officers had proved to be a great
mistake. According to their own accounts, discipline must have been
extremely lax at first, but was now improving. They were most anxious to
hear what was thought of their cause in Europe; and none of them seemed
aware of the great sympathy which their gallantry and determination had
gained for them in England in spite of slavery.

We dined at a little wooden hamlet called Belmont, and changed horses
again there.

The country through which we had been travelling was a good deal
cultivated, and there were numerous farms. I saw cotton-fields for the
first time.

We amused ourselves by taking shots with our revolvers at the enormous
jack-rabbits which came to stare at the coach.

In the afternoon tobacco-chewing became universal, and the spitting was
sometimes a little wild.

It was the custom for the outsiders to sit round the top of the
carriage, with their legs dangling over (like mutes on a hearse
returning from a funeral). This practice rendered it dangerous to put
one's head out of the window, for fear of a back kick from the heels, or
of a shower of tobacco-juice from the mouths, of the Southern
chivalry on the roof. In spite of their peculiar habits of hanging,
shooting, &c., which seemed to be natural to people living in a wild
and thinly-populated country, there was much to like in my
fellow-travellers. They all had a sort of _bonhommie_ honesty and
straightforwardness, a natural courtesy and extreme good-nature, which
was very agreeable. Although they were all very anxious to talk to a
European--who, in these blockaded times, is a _rara avis_--yet their
inquisitiveness was never offensive or disagreeable.

Any doubts as to my personal safety, which may have been roused by my
early insight into Lynch law, were soon completely set at rest; for I
soon perceived that if any one were to annoy me the remainder would
stand by me as a point of honour.

We supped at a little town called Gonzales at 6.30.

We left it at 8 P.M. in another coach with six horses--big strong
animals.

The roads being all natural ones, were much injured by the rains.

We were all rather disgusted by the bad news we heard at Gonzales of the
continued advance of Banks, and of the probable fall of Alexandria.

The squeezing was really quite awful, but I did not suffer so much as
the fat or long-legged ones. They all bore their trials in the most
jovial good-humoured manner.

My fat _vis-à-vis_ (in despair) changed places with me, my two
bench-fellows being rather thinner than his, and I benefited much by the
change into a back seat.

       *       *       *       *       *

_29th April_ (Wednesday).--Exhausted as I was, I managed to sleep
wonderfully well last night. We breakfasted at a place called
Hallettsville at 7 A.M., and changed carriages again.

Here we took in four more Confederate soldiers as outsiders, and we were
now eighteen in all. Nowhere but in this country would such a thing be
permitted.

Owing to the great top-weight, the coach swayed about like a ship in a
heavy sea, and the escapes of a capsize were almost miraculous. It is
said that at the end of a Texan journey the question asked is not, "Have
you been upset?" but, "How many times have you been upset?"

The value of the negroes working in the fields was constantly appraised
by my fellow-travellers; and it appeared that, in Texas, an able-bodied
male fetched $2500, whilst a well-skilled seamstress was worth $3500.

Two of my companions served through the late severe campaign in New
Mexico, but they considered forty-eight hours in a closely-packed stage
a greater hardship than any of their military experiences.

We passed many cotton-fields and beautiful Indian corn, but much of the
latter had been damaged by the hail.

I was told that one-third of the land formerly devoted to cotton is
still sown with that article, the remainder being corn, &c.[13]

We also passed through some very pretty country, full of fine post-oak
and cotton trees, and we met many Mexican cotton-teams--some of the
waggons with fourteen oxen or twelve mules, which were being cruelly
ill-treated by their drivers.

We crossed several rivers with steep and difficult banks, and dined at a
farmhouse at 2.30 P.M.

I have already discovered that, directly the bell rings, it is necessary
to rush at one's food and bolt it as quickly as possible, without any
ceremony or delay, otherwise it all disappears, so rapacious and so
voracious are the natives at their meals whilst travelling. Dinner, on
such occasions, in no case lasts more than seven minutes.

We reached Columbus at 6 P.M., and got rid of half our passengers
there. These Texan towns generally consist of one large plaça, with a
well-built courthouse on one side and a hotel opposite, the other two
sides being filled up with wooden stores. All their budding prosperity
has been completely checked by the war; but every one anticipates a
great immigration into Texas after the peace.

We crossed the Colorado river, and reached Alleyton, our destination, at
7 P.M.

This little wooden village has sprung into existence during the last
three years, owing to its being the present terminus to the railroad. It
was crammed full of travellers and cotton speculators; but, as an
especial favour, the fat German and I were given a bed _between us_. I
threw myself on the bed with my clothes on (_bien entendu_), and was
fast asleep in five minutes. In the same room there were three other
beds, each with two occupants.

The distance from San Antonio to Alleyton is 140 miles--time, forty-six
hours.

[13] It is only in Texas that so much cotton is still grown.

       *       *       *       *       *

_30th April_ (Thursday).--I have to-day acquired my first experience of
Texan railroads.

In this country, where every white man is as good as another (by
theory), and every white female is by courtesy a lady, there is only one
class. The train from Alleyton consisted of two long cars, each holding
about fifty persons. Their interior is like the aisle of a church,
twelve seats on either side, each for two persons. The seats are
comfortably stuffed, and seemed luxurious after the stage.

Before starting, the engine gives two preliminary snorts, which, with a
yell from the official of "_all aboard_," warn the passengers to hold
on; for they are closely followed by a tremendous jerk, which sets the
cars in motion.

Every passenger is allowed to use his own discretion about breaking his
arm, neck, or leg, without interference by the railway officials.

People are continually jumping on and off whilst the train is in motion,
and larking from one car to the other. There is no sort of fence or
other obstacle to prevent "humans" or cattle from getting on the line.

We left Alleyton at 8 A.M., and got a miserable meal at Richmond at
12.30. At this little town I was introduced to a seedy-looking man, in
rusty black clothes and a broken-down "stove-pipe" hat. This was Judge
Stockdale, who will probably be the next governor of Texas. He is an
agreeable man, and his conversation is far superior to his clothing. The
rival candidate is General Chambers (I think), who has become very
popular by the following sentence in his manifesto:--"I am of opinion
that married soldiers should be given the opportunity of embracing their
families at least once a-year, their places in the ranks being taken by
unmarried men. The population must not be allowed to suffer."

Richmond is on the Brazos river, which is crossed in a peculiar manner.
A steep inclined plane leads to a low, rickety, trestle bridge, and a
similar inclined plane is cut in the opposite bank. The engine cracks on
all steam, and gets sufficient impetus in going down the first incline
to shoot across the bridge and up the second incline. But even in Texas
this method of crossing a river is considered rather unsafe.

After crossing the river in this manner, the rail traverses some very
fertile land, part of which forms the estate of the late Colonel Terry.
There are more than two hundred negroes on the plantation. Some of the
fields were planted with cotton and Indian corn mixed, three rows of the
former between two of the latter. I saw also fields with cotton and
sugar mixed.

We changed carriages at Harrisburg, and I completed my journey to
Houston on a cotton truck.

The country near Houston is very pretty, and is studded with white
wooden villas, which are raised off the ground on blocks like haystacks.
I reached Houston at 4.30 P.M., and drove to the Fannin House hotel.

Houston is a much better place than I expected. The main street can
boast of many well-built brick and iron houses. It was very full, as it
now contained all the refugees from the deserted town of Galveston.

After an extremely mild supper, I was introduced to Lieutenant Lee, a
wounded hero, who lost his leg at Shiloh; also to Colonel Pyron, a
distinguished officer, who commands the regiment named after him.

The fat German, Mr Lee, and myself, went to the theatre afterwards.

As a great favour, my British prejudices were respected, and I was
allowed a bed to myself; but the four other beds in the room had two
occupants each. A captain, whose acquaintance I had made in the cars,
slept in the next bed to me. Directly after we had got into bed a negro
came in, who, squatting down between our beds, began to clean our boots.
The Southerner pointed at the slave, and thus held forth:--"Well,
Kernel, I reckon you've got servants in your country, but not of that
colour. Now, sir, this is a real genu_i_ne African. He's as happy as the
day's long; and if he was on a sugar plantation he'd be dancing half the
night; but if you was to collect a thousand of them together, and fire
one bomb in amongst them, they'd all run like h----ll." The negro
grinned, and seemed quite flattered.

       *       *       *       *       *

_1st May_ (Friday).--I called on General Scurry, and found him suffering
from severe ophthalmia. When I presented General Magruder's letter, he
insisted that I should come and live with him so long as I remained
here. He also telegraphed to Galveston for a steamer to take me there
and back.

We dined at 4 P.M.: the party consisted of Colonel and Judge Terrill (a
clever and agreeable man), Colonel Pyron, Captain Wharton,
Quartermaster-General, Major Watkins (a handsome fellow, and hero of the
Sabine Pass affair), and Colonel Cook, commanding the artillery at
Galveston (late of the U.S. navy, who enjoys the reputation of being a
zealous Methodist preacher and a daring officer). The latter told me he
could hardly understand how I could be an Englishman, as I pronounced my
h's all right. General Scurry himself is very amusing, and is an
admirable mimic. His numerous anecdotes of the war were very
interesting. In peace times he is a lawyer. He was a volunteer major in
the Mexican war, and distinguished himself very much in the late
campaigns in New Mexico and Arizona, and at the recapture of Galveston.

After dinner, the Queen's health was proposed; and the party expressed
the greatest admiration for Her Majesty, and respect for the British
Constitution. They all said that universal suffrage did not produce such
deplorable results in the South as in the North; because the population
in the South is so very scattered, and the whites being the superior
race, they form a sort of aristocracy.

They all wanted me to put off going to Galveston till Monday, in order
that some ladies might go; but I was inexorable, as it must now be my
object to cross the Mississippi without delay.

All these officers despised sabres, and considered double-barrelled
shot-guns and revolvers the best arms for cavalry.

       *       *       *       *       *

_2d May_ (Saturday).--As the steamer had not arrived in the morning, I
left by railroad for Galveston. General Scurry insisted upon sending his
servant to wait upon me, in order that I might become acquainted with
"an aristocratic negro." "John" was a very smart fellow, and at first
sight nearly as white as myself.

In the cars I was introduced to General Samuel Houston, the founder of
Texan independence. He told me he was born in Virginia seventy years
ago, that he was United States senator at thirty, and governor of
Tennessee at thirty-six. He emigrated into Texas in 1832; headed the
revolt of Texas, and defeated the Mexicans at San Jacinto in 1836. He
then became President of the Republic of Texas, which he annexed to the
United States in 1845. As Governor of the State in 1860, he had opposed
the secession movement, and was _deposed_. Though evidently a remarkable
and clever man, he is extremely egotistical and vain, and much
disappointed at having to subside from his former grandeur. The town of
Houston is named after him. In appearance he is a tall, handsome old
man, much given to chewing tobacco, and blowing his nose with his
fingers.[14]

I was also introduced to another "character," Captain Chubb, who told me
he was a Yankee by birth, and served as coxswain to the United States
ship Java in 1827. He was afterwards imprisoned at Boston on suspicion
of being engaged in the slave trade; but he escaped. At the beginning of
this war he was captured by the Yankees, when he was in command of the
Confederate States steamer Royal Yacht, and taken to New York in chains,
where he was condemned to be hung as a pirate; but he was eventually
exchanged. I was afterwards told that the slave-trading escapade of
which he was accused consisted in his having hired a coloured crew at
Boston, and then coolly _selling_ them at Galveston.

At 1 P.M., we arrived at Virginia Point, a _tête-de-pont_ at the
extremity of the main land. Here Bates's battalion was encamped--called
also the "swamp angels," on account of the marshy nature of their
quarters, and of their predatory and irregular habits.

The railroad then traverses a shallow lagoon (called Galveston Bay) on a
trestle-bridge two miles long; this leads to another _tête-de-pont_ on
Galveston island, and in a few minutes the city is reached.

In the train I had received the following message by telegraph from
Colonel Debray, who commands at Galveston:--"Will Col. Fremantle sleep
to-night at the house of a blockaded rebel?" I answered:--"Delighted;"
and was received at the terminus by Captain Foster of the Staff, who
conducted me in an ambulance to headquarters, which were at the house of
the Roman Catholic bishop. I was received there by Colonel Debray and
two very gentlemanlike French priests.

We sat down to dinner at 2 P.M., but were soon interrupted by an
indignant drayman, who came to complain of a military outrage. It
appeared that immediately after I had left the cars a semi-drunken Texan
of Pyron's regiment had desired this drayman to stop, and upon the
latter declining to do so, the Texan fired five shots at him from his
"six-shooter," and the last shot killed the drayman's horse. Captain
Foster (who is a Louisianian, and very sarcastic about Texas) said that
the regiment would probably hang the soldier for being such a
_disgraceful bad shot_.

After dinner Colonel Debray took me into the observatory, which commands
a good view of the city, bay, and gulf.

Galveston is situated near the eastern end of an island thirty miles
long by three and a half wide. Its houses are well built; its streets
are long, straight, and shaded with trees; but the city was now
desolate, blockaded, and under military law. Most of the houses were
empty, and bore many marks of the ill-directed fire of the Federal ships
during the night of the 1st January last.

The whole of Galveston Bay is very shallow, except a narrow channel of
about a hundred yards immediately in front of the now deserted wharves.
The entrance to this channel is at the north-eastern extremity of the
island, and is defended by the new works which are now in progress
there. It is also blocked up with piles, torpedoes, and other obstacles.

The blockaders were plainly visible about four miles from land; they
consisted of three gunboats and an ugly paddle steamer, also two supply
vessels.

The wreck of the Confederate cotton steamer Neptune (destroyed in her
attack on the Harriet Lane), was close off one of the wharves. That of
the Westfield (blown up by the Yankee Commodore), was off Pelican
Island.

In the night of the 1st January, General Magruder suddenly entered
Galveston, placed his field-pieces along the line of wharves, and
unexpectedly opened fire in the dark upon the Yankee war vessels at a
range of about one hundred yards; but so heavy (though badly directed)
was the reply from the ships, that the field-pieces had to be withdrawn.
The attack by Colonel Cook upon a Massachusetts regiment fortified at
the end of a wharf, also failed, and the Confederates thought themselves
"badly whipped." But after daylight the fortunate surrender of the
Harriet Lane to the cotton boat Bayou City, and the extraordinary
conduct of Commodore Renshaw, converted a Confederate disaster into the
recapture of Galveston. General Magruder certainly deserves immense
credit for his boldness in attacking a heavily armed naval squadron with
a few field-pieces and two river steamers protected with cotton bales
and manned with Texan cavalry soldiers.

I rode with Colonel Debray to examine Forts Scurry, Magruder, Bankhead,
and Point. These works have been ingeniously designed by Colonel
Sulokowski (formerly in the Austrian army), and they were being very
well constructed by one hundred and fifty whites and six hundred blacks
under that officer's superintendence, the blacks being lent by the
neighbouring planters.

Although the blockaders can easily approach to within three miles of
the works, and although one shell will always "stampede" the negroes,
yet they have not thrown any for a long time.[15]

Colonel Debray is a broad-shouldered Frenchman, and is a very good
fellow. He told me that he emigrated to America in 1848; he raised a
company in 1861, in which he was only a private; he was next appointed
aide-de-camp to the Governor of Texas, with the rank of
brigadier-general; he then descended to a major of infantry, afterwards
rose to a lieutenant-colonel of cavalry, and is now colonel.

Captain Foster is properly on Magruder's Staff, and is very good
company. His property at New Orleans had been destroyed by the Yankees.

In the evening we went to a dance given by Colonel Manly, which was
great fun. I danced an American cotillon with Mrs Manly; it was very
violent exercise, and not the least like anything I had seen before. A
gentleman stands by shouting out the different figures to be performed,
and every one obeys his orders with much gravity and energy. Colonel
Manly is a very gentlemanlike Carolinian; the ladies were pretty, and,
considering the blockade, they were very well dressed.

Six deserters from Banks's army arrived here to-day. Banks seems to be
advancing steadily, and overcoming the opposition offered by the handful
of Confederates in the Teche country.

Banks himself is much despised as a soldier, and is always called by the
Confederates Mr Commissary Banks, on account of the efficient manner in
which he performed the duties of that office for "Stonewall" Jackson in
Virginia. The officer who is supposed _really_ to command the advancing
Federals, is Weitzel; and he is acknowledged by all here to be an able
man, a good soldier, and well acquainted with the country in which he is
manoeuvring.

[14] He is reported to have died in August 1863.

[15] Such a stampede did occur when the blockaders threw two or three
shells. All the negroes ran, showing every sign of great dismay, and two
of them, in their terror, ran into the sea, and were unfortunately
drowned. It is now, however, too late for the ships to try this
experiment, as some heavy guns are in position. A description of the
different works is of course omitted here.

       *       *       *       *       *

_3d May_ (Sunday).--I paid a long visit this morning to Mr Lynn the
British Consul, who told me that he had great difficulty in
communicating with the outer world, and had seen no British man-of-war
since the Immortalité.

At 1.30 I saw Pyron's regiment embark for Niblitt's Bluff to meet
Banks. This corps is now dismounted cavalry, and the procession was a
droll one. First came eight or ten instruments braying discordantly,
then an enormous Confederate flag, followed by about four hundred men
moving by fours--dressed in every variety of costume, and armed with
every variety of weapon; about sixty had Enfield rifles; the remainder
carried shot-guns (fowling-pieces), carbines, or long rifles of a
peculiar and antiquated manufacture. None had swords or bayonets--all
had six-shooters and bowie-knives. The men were a fine,
determined-looking lot; and I saw amongst them a short stout boy of
fourteen who had served through the Arizona campaign. I saw many of the
soldiers take off their hats to the French priests, who seemed much
respected in Galveston. This regiment is considered down here to be a
very good one, and its colonel is spoken of as one of the bravest
officers in the army. The regiment was to be harangued by Old Houston
before it embarked.[16]

In getting into the cars to return to Houston I was nearly forced to
step over the dead body of the horse shot by the soldier yesterday, and
which the authorities had not thought necessary to remove.

I got back to General Scurry's house at Houston at 4.30 P.M. The
general took me out for a drive in his ambulance, and I saw innumerable
negroes and negresses parading about the streets in the most
outrageously grand costumes--silks, satins, crinolines, hats with
feathers, lace mantles, &c., forming an absurd contrast to the simple
dresses of their mistresses. Many were driving about in their masters'
carriages, or riding on horses which are often lent to them on Sunday
afternoons; all seemed intensely happy and satisfied with themselves.

---- told me that old Sam Houston lived for several years amongst the
Cherokee Indians, who used to call him "the Raven" or the "Big Drunk."
He married an Indian squaw when he was with them.

Colonel Ives, aide-de-camp to the President, has just arrived from
Richmond, and he seems a very well-informed and agreeable man.

I have settled to take the route to Shrieveport to-morrow, as it seems
doubtful whether Alexandria will or will not fall.

[16] At the outbreak of the war it was found very difficult to raise
infantry in Texas, as no Texan walks a yard if he can help it. Many
mounted regiments were therefore organised, and afterwards dismounted.

       *       *       *       *       *

_4th May_ (Monday).--General Scurry's servant "John" had been most
attentive since he had been told off to me. I made him a present of my
evening clothes, which gratified him immensely; and I shook hands with
him at parting, which seems to be quite the custom. The Southern
gentlemen are certainly able to treat their slaves with extraordinary
familiarity and kindness. John told me that the General would let him
buy his freedom whenever he chose. He is a barber by trade, and was
earning much money when he insisted on rejoining his master and going to
the wars.

I left Houston by train for Navasoto at 10 A.M. A Captain Andrews
accompanied me thus far: he was going with a troop of cavalry to impress
one-fourth of the negroes on the plantations for the Government works at
Galveston, the planters having been backward in coming forward with
their darkies.

Arrived at Navasoto (70 miles) at 4 P.M., where I took a stage for
Shrieveport (250 miles). I started at 4.30 P.M., after having had a
little dispute with a man for a corner seat, and beating him.

It was the same sort of vehicle as the San Antonio one--eight people
inside. During the night there was a thunderstorm.

       *       *       *       *       *

_5th May_ (Tuesday).--We breakfasted at Huntsville at 5.30 A.M. The
Federal officers captured in the Harriet Lane are confined in the
penitentiary there, and are not treated as prisoners of war. This seems
to be the system now with regard to officers since the enlistment of
negroes by the Northerners.

My fellow-travellers were mostly elderly planters or legislators, and
there was one judge from Louisiana. One of them produced a pair of boots
which had cost him $100; another showed me a common wideawake hat which
had cost him $40. In Houston, I myself saw an English regulation
infantry sword exposed for sale for $225 (£45).

As the military element did not predominate, my companions united in
speaking with horror of the depredations committed in this part of the
country by their own troops on a line of march.

We passed through a well-wooded country--pines and post oaks--the road
bad: crossed the river Trinity at 12 noon, and dined at the house of a
disreputable looking individual called a Campbellite minister, at 4.30
P.M. The food consisted almost invariably of bacon, corn bread, and
buttermilk: a meal costing a dollar.

Arrived at Crockett at 9.30 P.M., where we halted for a few hours. A
_filthy bed_ was given to the Louisianian Judge and myself. The Judge,
following my example, took to it boots and all, remarking, as he did so,
to the attendant negro, that "they were a d----d sight cleaner than the
bed."

Before reaching Crockett, we passed through the encampment of
Phillipps's regiment of Texas Rangers, and we underwent much chaff. They
were _en route_ to resist Banks.

       *       *       *       *       *

_6th May_ (Wednesday).--We left all the passengers at Crockett except
the Louisianian Judge, a Government agent, and the ex-boatswain of the
Harriet Lane, which vessel had been manned by the Confederates after her
capture; but she had since been dismantled, and her crew was being
marched to Shrieveport to man the ironclad Missouri, which was being
built there.

The food we get on the road is sufficient, and good enough to support
life; it consists of pork or bacon, bread made with Indian corn, and a
peculiar mixture called Confederate coffee, made of rye, meal, Indian
corn or sweet potatoes. The loss of coffee afflicts the Confederates
even more than the loss of spirits; and they exercise their ingenuity in
devising substitutes, which are not generally very successful.

The same sort of country as yesterday, viz.--large forests of pines and
post-oaks, and occasional Indian-corn-fields, the trees having been
killed by cutting a circle near the roots.

At 3 P.M., we took in four more passengers. One of them was a Major
----, brother-in-law to ----, who hanged Mongomery at Brownsville. He
spoke of the exploit of his relative with some pride. He told me that
his three brothers had lost an arm apiece in the war.

We arrived at Rusk at 6.30 P.M., and spent a few hours there; but
notwithstanding the boasted splendour of the beds at the Cherokee Hotel,
and although by Major ----'s influence I got one to myself, yet I did
not consider its aspect sufficiently inviting to induce me to remove my
clothes.

       *       *       *       *       *

_7th May_ (Thursday).--We started again at 1.30 A.M. in a smaller coach,
but luckily with reduced numbers, viz.--the Louisianian Judge (who is
also a legislator), a Mississippi planter, the boatswain, the Government
agent, and a Captain Williams, of the Texas Rangers.

Before the day broke we reached a bridge over a stream called Mud Creek,
which was in such a dilapidated condition that all hands had to get out
and cover over the biggest holes with planks.

The Government agent informed us that he still held a commission as
adjutant-general to ----. The latter, it appears, is a cross between a
guerilla and a horse thief, and, even by his adjutant-general's account,
he seems to be an equal adept at both professions. The accounts of his
forays in Arkansas were highly amusing, but rather strongly seasoned for
a legitimate soldier.

The Judge was a very gentlemanlike nice old man. Both he and the
adjutant-general were much knocked up by the journey; but I revived the
former with the last of the Immortalité rum. The latter was in very weak
health, and doesn't expect to live long; but he ardently hoped to
destroy a few more "bluebellies"[17] before he "goes under."

The Mississippi planter had abandoned his estate near Vicksburg, and
withdrawn with the remnant of his slaves into Texas. The Judge also had
lost all his property in New Orleans. In fact, every other man one meets
has been more or less ruined since the war, but all speak of their
losses with the greatest equanimity.

Captain Williams was a tall, cadaverous backwoodsman, who had lost his
health in the war. He spoke of the Federal general, Rosecrans, with
great respect, and he passed the following high encomium upon the
North-Western troops, under Rosecrans's command--

"They're reglar great big h----llsnorters, the same breed as ourselves.
They don't want no running after,--they don't. They ain't no Dutch
cavalry[18]--you bet!"

To my surprise all the party were willing to agree that a few years ago
most educated men in the south regarded slavery as a misfortune and not
justifiable, though necessary under the circumstances. But the meddling,
coercive conduct of the detested and despised abolitionists had caused
the bonds to be drawn much tighter.

My fellow-travellers of all classes are much given to talk to me about
their "peculiar institution," and they are most anxious that I should
see as much of it as possible, in order that I may be convinced that it
is not so bad as has been represented, and that they are not all
"Legrees," although they do not attempt to deny that there are many
instances of cruelty. But they say a man who is known to illtreat his
negroes is hated by all the rest of the community. They declare that
Yankees make the worst masters when they settle in the South; and all
seem to be perfectly aware that slavery, which they did not invent, but
which they inherited from us (English), is and always will be the great
bar to the sympathy of the civilised world. I have heard these words
used over and over again.

All the villages through which we passed were deserted except by women
and very old men; their aspect was most melancholy. The country is sandy
and the land not fertile, but the timber is fine.

We met several planters on the road, who with their families and
negroes were taking refuge in Texas, after having abandoned their
plantations in Louisiana on the approach of Banks. One of them had as
many as sixty slaves with him of all ages and sizes.

At 7 P.M. we received an unwelcome addition to our party, in the shape
of three huge, long-legged, unwashed, odoriferous Texan soldiers, and we
passed a wretched night in consequence. The Texans are certainly not
prone to take offence where they see none is intended; for when this
irruption took place, I couldn't help remarking to the Judge with regard
to the most obnoxious man who was occupying the centre seat to our
mutual discomfort,--"I say, Judge, this gentleman has got the longest
legs I ever saw." "Has he?" replied the Judge; "and he has got the
d----dest, longest, hardest back I ever felt." The Texan was highly
amused by these remarks upon his personal appearance, and apologised for
his peculiarities.

Crossed the Sabine river at 11.30 P.M.

[17] The Union soldiers are called "bluebellies" on account of their
blue uniforms. These often call the Confederates "greybacks."

[18] German dragoons, much despised by the Texans on account of their
style of riding.

       *       *       *       *       *

_8th May_ (Friday).--We reached Marshall at 3 A.M., and got four hours'
sleep there. We then got into a railroad for sixteen miles, after which
we were crammed into another stage.

Crossed the frontier into Louisiana at 11 A.M. I have therefore been
nearly a month getting through the single state of Texas.

Reached Shrieveport at 3 P.M., and after washing for the first time in
five days, I called on General Kirby Smith, who commands the whole
country on this side of the Mississippi.

He is a Floridian by birth, was educated at West Point, and served in
the United States cavalry. He is only thirty-eight years old; and he
owes his rapid rise to a lieutenant-general to the fortunate fact of his
having fallen, just at the very nick of time, upon the Yankee flank at
the first battle of Manassas.[19]

He is a remarkably active man, and of very agreeable manners; he wears
big spectacles and a black beard.

His wife is an extremely pretty woman, from Baltimore, but she had cut
her hair quite short like a man's. In the evening, she proposed that we
should go down to the river and fish for cray-fish. We did so, and were
most successful, the General displaying much energy on the occasion.

He told me that M'Clellan might probably have destroyed the Southern
army with the greatest ease during the first winter, and without running
much risk to himself, as the Southerners were so much over-elated by
their easy triumph at Manassas, and their army had dwindled away.

I was introduced to Governor Moore, of Louisiana, to the
Lieutenant-Governor Hyams, and also to the exiled Governor of Missouri,
Reynolds.

Governor Moore told me he had been on the Red River since 1824, from
which date until 1840 it had been very unhealthy. He thinks that Dickens
must have intended Shrieveport by "Eden."[20]

Governor Reynolds, of Missouri, told me he found himself in the
unfortunate condition of a potentate exiled from his dominions; but he
showed me an address which he had issued to his Missourians, promising
to be with them at the head of an army to deliver them from their
oppressors.

Shrieveport is rather a decent-looking place on the Red River. It
contains about 3000 inhabitants, and is at present the seat of the
Louisianian Legislature _vice_ Baton Rouge. But only twenty-eight
members of the Lower House had arrived as yet, and business could not be
commenced with less than fifty.

The river now is broad and rapid, and it is navigated by large steamers;
its banks are low and very fertile, but reputed to be very unhealthy.

General Kirby Smith advised me to go to Munroe, and try to cross the
Mississippi from thence; he was so uncertain as to Alexandria that he
was afraid to send a steamer so far.

I heard much talk at his house about the late Federal raid into
Mississippi,[21] which seems to be a copy of John Morgan's operations,
except that the Federal raid was made in a thinly populated country,
bereft of its male inhabitants.

[19] Called by the Yankees "Bull Run."

[20] I believe this is a mistake of Governor Moore. I have always
understood Cairo was Eden.

[21] Grierson's raid.

       *       *       *       *       *

_9th May_ (Saturday).--Started again by stage for Munroe at 4.30 A.M. My
companions were, the Mississippi planter, a mad dentist from New Orleans
(called, by courtesy, doctor), an old man from Matagorda, buying slaves
cheap in Louisiana, a wounded officer, and a wounded soldier.

The soldier was a very intelligent young Missourian, who told me (as
others have) that, at the commencement of these troubles, both he and
his family were strong Unionists. But the Lincolnites, by using
coercion, had forced them to take one side or the other--and there are
now no more bitter Secessionists than these people. This soldier (Mr
Douglas) was on his way to rejoin Bragg's army. A Confederate soldier
when wounded is not given his discharge, but is employed at such work as
he is competent to perform. Mr Douglas was quite lame; but will be
employed at mounted duties or at writing.

We passed several large and fertile plantations. The negro quarters
formed little villages, and seemed comfortable: some of them held 150 or
200 hands. We afterwards drove through some beautiful pine forests, and
were ferried across a beautiful shallow lake full of cypresses, but not
the least like European cypress trees.

We met a number more planters driving their families, their slaves, and
furniture, towards Texas--in fact, everything that they could save from
the ruin that had befallen them on the approach of the Federal troops.

At 5 P.M. we reached a charming little town, called Mindon, where I met
an English mechanic who deplored to me that he had been such a fool as
to naturalise himself, as he was in hourly dread of the conscription.

I have at length become quite callous to many of the horrors of stage
travelling. I no longer shrink at every random shower of tobacco-juice;
nor do I shudder when good-naturedly offered a quid. I eat voraciously
of the bacon that is provided for my sustenance, and I am invariably
treated by my fellow-travellers of all grades with the greatest
consideration and kindness. Sometimes a man remarks that it is rather
"mean" of England not to recognise the South; but I can always shut him
up by saying, that a nation which deserves its independence should fight
and earn it for itself--a sentiment which is invariably agreed to by
all.

       *       *       *       *       *

_10th May_ (Sunday).--I spent a very rough night in consequence of the
badness of the road, the jolting of the carriage, and having to occupy a
centre seat.

In the morning we received news from every one we met of the fall of
Alexandria.

The road to-day was alive with negroes, who are being "run" into Texas
out of Banks's way. We must have met hundreds of them, and many families
of planters, who were much to be pitied, especially the ladies.

On approaching Munroe, we passed through the camp of Walker's division
(8000 strong), which was on its march from Arkansas to meet Banks. The
division had embarked in steamers, and had already started down the
"Wachita" towards the Red River, when the news arrived of the fall of
Alexandria, and of the presence of Federal gunboats in or near the
Wachita itself. This caused the precipitate return and disembarkation of
Walker's division. The men were well armed with rifles and bayonets, but
they were dressed in ragged civilian clothes. The old Matagorda man
recognised his son in one of these regiments--a perfect boy.

Munroe is on the "Wachita" (pronounced Washtaw), which is a very pretty
and wide stream. After crossing it we arrived at the hotel after dark.

Universal confusion reigned there; it was full of officers and soldiers
of Walker's division, and no person would take the slightest notice of
us.

In desperation I called on General Hebert, who commanded the post. I
told him who I was, and gave him a letter of introduction, which I had
fortunately brought from Kirby Smith. I stated my hard case, and
besought an asylum for the night, which he immediately accorded me in
his own house.

The difficulty of crossing the Mississippi appeared to increase the
nearer I got to it, and General Hebert told me that it was very doubtful
whether I could cross at all at this point. The Yankee gunboats, which
had forced their way past Vicksburg and Port Hudson, were roaming about
the Mississippi and Red River, and some of them were reported at the
entrance of the Wachita itself, a small fort at Harrisonburg being the
only impediment to their appearance in front of Munroe.

On another side, the enemy's forces were close to Delhi, only forty
miles distant.

There were forty or fifty Yankee deserters here from the army besieging
Vicksburg. These Yankee deserters, on being asked their reasons for
deserting, generally reply,--"Our Government has broken faith with us.
We enlisted to fight for the Union, and not to liberate the G----d
d----d niggers." Vicksburg is distant from this place about eighty
miles.

The news of General Lee's victory at Chancellorsville had just arrived
here. Every one received it very coolly, and seemed to take it quite as
a matter of course; but the wound of Stonewall Jackson was universally
deplored.

       *       *       *       *       *

_11th May_ (Monday).--General Hebert is a good-looking creole.[22] He
was a West-Pointer, and served in the old army, but afterwards became a
wealthy sugar-planter. He used to hold Magruder's position as
commander-in-chief in Texas, but he has now been shelved at Munroe,
where he expects to be taken prisoner any day; and, from the present
gloomy aspect of affairs about here, it seems extremely probable that he
will not be disappointed in his expectations. He is extremely down upon
England for not recognising the South.[23]

He gave me a passage down the river in a steamer, which was to try to
take provisions to Harrisonburg; but, at the same time, he informed me
that she might very probably be captured by a Yankee gunboat.

At 1 P.M. I embarked for Harrisonburg, which is distant from Munroe by
water 150 miles, and by land 75 miles. It is fortified, and offers what
was considered a weak obstruction to the passage of the gunboats up the
river to Munroe.

The steamer was one of the curious American river boats, which rise to a
tremendous height out of the water, like great wooden castles. She was
steered from a box at the very top of all, and this particular one was
propelled by one wheel at her stern.

The river is quite beautiful; it is from 200 to 300 yards broad, very
deep and tortuous, and the large trees grow right down to the very edge
of the water.

Our captain at starting expressed in very plain terms his extreme
disgust at the expedition, and said he fully expected to run against a
gunboat at any turn of the river.

Soon after leaving Munroe, we passed a large plantation. The negro
quarters were larger than a great many Texan towns, and they held three
hundred hands.

After we had proceeded about half an hour, we were stopped by a mounted
orderly (called a courier), who from the bank roared out the pleasing
information, "They're a-fighting at Harrisonburg." The captain on
hearing this turned quite green in the face, and remarked that he'd be
"dogged" if he liked running into the jaws of a lion, and he proposed to
turn back; but he was jeered at by my fellow-travellers, who were all
either officers or soldiers, wishing to cross the Mississippi to rejoin
their regiments in the different Confederate armies.

One pleasant fellow, more warlike than the rest, suggested that as we
had some Enfields on board, we should make "a little bit of a fight," or
at least "make one butt at a gunboat." I was relieved to find that these
insane proposals were not received with any enthusiasm by the majority.

The plantations, as we went further down the river, looked very
prosperous; but signs of preparations for immediate skedaddling were
visible in most of them, and I fear they are all destined to be soon
desolate and destroyed.

We came to a courier picket every sixteen miles. At one of them we got
the information, "Gun-boats drove back," at which there was great
rejoicing, and the captain, recovering his spirits, became quite jocose,
and volunteered to give me letters of introduction to a "particular
friend of his about here, called Mr Farragut;" but the next news, "Still
a-fightin'," caused us to tie ourselves to a tree at 8 P.M., off a
little village called Columbia, which is half-way between Munroe and
Harrisonburg.

We then lit a large fire, round which all the passengers squatted on
their heels in Texan fashion, each man whittling a piece of wood, and
discussing the merits of the different Yankee prisons at New Orleans or
Chicago. One of them, seeing me, called out, "I reckon, Kernel, if the
Yankees catch you with us, they'll say you're in d----d bad company;"
which sally caused universal hilarity.

[22] The descendants of the French colonists in Louisiana are called
creoles; most of them talk French, and I have often met Louisianian
regiments talking that language.

[23] General Hebert is the only man of education I met in the whole of
my travels who spoke disagreeably about England in this respect. Most
people say they think we are quite right to keep out of it as long as we
can; but others think our Government is foolish to miss such a splendid
chance of "smashing the Yankees," with whom we must have a row sooner or
later.

       *       *       *       *       *

_12th May_ (Tuesday).--Shortly after daylight three negroes arrived from
Harrisonburg, and they described the fight as still going on. They said
they were "dreadful skeered;" and one of them told me he would "rather
be a slave to his master all his life, than a white man and a soldier."

During the morning some of the officers and soldiers left the boat, and
determined to cut across country to Harrisonburg, but I would not
abandon the scanty remains of my baggage until I was forced to do so.

During the morning twelve more negroes arrived from Harrisonburg. It
appears that three hundred of them, the property of neighbouring
planters, had been engaged working on the fortifications, but they all
with one accord bolted when the first shell was fired. Their only idea
and hope at present seemed to be to get back to their masters. All spoke
of the Yankees with great detestation, and expressed wishes to have
nothing to do with such "bad people."

Our captain coolly employed them in tearing down the fences, and
carrying the wood away on board the steamer for firewood.

We did nothing but this all day long, the captain being afraid to go on,
and unwilling to return. In the evening a new alarm seized him--viz.,
that the Federal cavalry had cut off the Confederate line of couriers.

During the night we remained in the same position as last night, head up
stream, and ready to be off at a moment's notice.[24]

[24] One of the passengers on board this steamer was Captain Barney of
the Confederate States Navy, who has since, I believe, succeeded Captain
Maffit in the command of the Florida.

       *       *       *       *       *

_13th May_ (Wednesday).--There was a row on board last night; one of
the officers having been too attentive to a lady, had to skedaddle
suddenly into the woods, in order to escape the fury of her protector,
and he has not thought it advisable to reappear. My trusty companion for
several days, the poor young Missourian, was taken ill to-day, and told
me he had a "_right smart little fever_ on him." I doctored him with
some of the physic which Mr Maloney had given me, and he got better in
the evening.

We had pickets out in the woods last night. Two of my fellow-travellers
on that duty fell in with a negro, and pretending they were Yankees,
asked him to join them. He consented, and even volunteered to steal his
master's horses; and he then received a tremendous thrashing,
administered by the two soldiers with their ramrods.

At 9 P.M., to the surprise of all, the captain suddenly made up his mind
to descend the river at all hazards, thinking, I suppose, that anything
was better than the uncertainty of the last twenty-four hours.

The further we went, the more beautiful was the scenery.

At 4 P.M. we were assured by a citizen on the bank that the gunboats
really had retreated; and at 5.30 our doubts were set at rest, to our
great satisfaction, by descrying the Confederate flag flying from Fort
Beauregard, high above the little town of Harrisonburg. After we had
landed, I presented my letter of introduction from General Hebert to
Colonel Logan, who commands the fort. He introduced me to a German
officer, the engineer.

They gave me an account of the attack and repulse of the four Federal
gunboats under Commodore Woodford, and supposed to have been the
Pittsburg (ironclad), the General Price, the Arizona, and another.

Fort Beauregard is a much more formidable looking work than I expected
to see, and its strength had evidently been much underrated at Munroe.

A hill 190 feet high, which rises just in rear of Harrisonburg, has been
scarped and fortified. It is situated at an angle of the river, and
faces a long "reach" of two miles.

The gunboats, after demanding an unconditional surrender, which was
treated with great contempt by Colonel Logan, opened fire at 2 P.M. on
Sunday, and kept it up till 6.30, throwing about one hundred and fifty 9
and 11 inch shell. The gunboats reopened again for about an hour on
Monday afternoon, when they finally withdrew, the Arizona being
crippled.

The fort fired altogether about forty-five 32-pound shot (smooth bore.)
The range was about a mile.

The garrison thought that they had loosened several of the Pittsburg's
iron-plates. They felt confident they could have sunk the wooden vessels
if they had attempted to force the passage; and they were naturally much
elated with their success, which certainly had not been anticipated on
board my steamer, or at Munroe.

I had not time to visit the interior of the fort, but I saw the effect
of the shell upon the outside. Those which fell in the sand did not
burst. Only three men were wounded in the garrison. They told me the
deck of the Pittsburg was furnished with a parapet of cotton bales for
riflemen.

The river at Harrisonburg is about 160 yards broad, and very deep, with
a moderate current. The town, being between the vessels and the fort,
had, of course, suffered considerably during the bombardment.

When the works are complete they will be much more formidable.

To our great joy Colonel Logan decided that our vessel should proceed at
once to Trinity, which is fifteen miles nearer Natchez (on the
Mississippi) than Harrisonburg.

We arrived there at 8 P.M., and found that the gunboats had only just
left, after having destroyed all the molasses and rum they could find,
and carried away a few negroes.

Six of us pigged in one very small room, paying a dollar each for this
luxury to an old woman, who was most inhospitable, and told us "she
didn't want to see no soldiers, as the Yanks would come back and burn
her house for harbouring rebels." I am always taken for a Confederate
officer, partly from being in their company, and partly on account of my
clothes, which happen to be a grey shooting-suit, almost the same colour
as most of the soldiers' coats.

       *       *       *       *       *

_14th May_ (Thursday).--The officers and soldiers, about thirty in
number, who came down the Wachita in my company, determined to proceed
to Natchez to-day, and a very hard day's work we had of it.

As the Louisianian bank of the Mississippi is completely overflowed at
this time of year, and the river itself is infested with the enemy's
gunboats, which have run past Vicksburg and Port Hudson, the passage can
only be made by a tedious journey in small boats through the swamps and
bayous.

Our party left Trinity at 6 A.M. in one big yawl and three skiffs. In
my skiff were eight persons, besides a negro oarsman named "Tucker." We
had to take it in turns to row with this worthy, and I soon discovered
to my cost the inconvenience of sitting in close proximity with a
perspiring darkie. This negro was a very powerful man, very vain, and
susceptible of flattery. I won his heart by asking him if he wasn't
worth 6000 dollars. We kept him up to the mark throughout the journey by
plying him with compliments upon his strength and skill. One officer
declared to him that he should try to marry his mistress (a widow) on
purpose to own him.

After beating up for about eight miles against one of three streams
which unite at, and give its name to, Trinity, we turned off to the
right, and got into a large dense swamp. The thicket was so tangled and
impenetrable that we experienced the greatest difficulty in forcing our
way through it; we were often obliged to get into the water up to our
middles and shove, whilst most of the party walked along an embankment.

After two hours and a half of this sort of work we had to carry our
boats bodily over the embankment into a bayou called Log Bayou, on
account of the numerous floating logs which had to be encountered. We
then crossed a large and beautiful lake, which led us into another
dismal swamp, quite as tangled as the former one. Here we lost our way,
and got aground several times; but at length, after great exertions, we
forced ourselves through it, and reached Lake Concordia, a fine piece of
water, several miles in extent, and we were landed at dusk on the
plantation of a Mr Davis.

These bayous and swamps abound with alligators and snakes of the most
venomous description. I saw many of the latter swimming about exposed to
a heavy fire of six-shooters; but the alligators were frightened away by
the leading boat.

The yawl and one of the skiffs beat us, and their passengers reached
Natchez about 9 P.M., but the other skiff, which could not boast of a
Tucker, was lost in the swamp, and passed the night there in a wretched
plight.

The weather was most disagreeable, either a burning sun or a downpour of
rain.

The distance we did in the skiff was about twenty-eight miles, which
took us eleven hours to perform.

On landing we hired at Mr Davis's a small cart for Mr Douglas (the
wounded Missourian) and our baggage, and we had to finish the day by a
trudge of three miles through deep mud, until, at length, we reached a
place called Vidalia, which is on the Louisianian bank of the
Mississippi, just opposite Natchez.

At Vidalia I got the immense luxury of a pretty good bed, _all to
myself_, which enabled me to take off my clothes and boots for the first
time in ten days.

The landlord told us that three of the enemy's gunboats had passed
during the day; and as he said their crews were often in the habit of
landing at Vidalia, he cautioned the military to be ready to bolt into
the woods at any time during the night.

There were two conscripts on board my skiff to-day, one an Irishman and
the other a Pole. They confessed to me privately their extreme dislike
of the military profession; but at the same time they acknowledged the
enthusiasm of the masses for the war.

       *       *       *       *       *

_15th May_ (Friday).--I nearly slept round the clock after yesterday's
exertions. Mr Douglas and I crossed the father of rivers and landed on
the Mississippi bank at 9 A.M.

Natchez is a pretty little town, and ought to contain about 6000
inhabitants. It is built on the top of a high bluff overlooking the
Mississippi river, which is about three quarters of a mile broad at this
point.

When I reached Natchez I hired a carriage, and, with a letter of
introduction which I had brought from San Antonio, I drove to the house
of Mr Haller Nutt, distant from the town about two miles.

The scenery about Natchez is extremely pretty, and the ground is hilly,
with plenty of fine trees. Mr Nutt's place reminded me very much of an
English gentleman's country seat, except that the house itself is rather
like a pagoda, but it is beautifully furnished.

Mr Nutt was extremely civil, and was most anxious that I should remain
at Natchez for a few days; but now that I was thoroughly wound up for
travelling, I determined to push on to Vicksburg, as all the late news
seemed to show that some great operations must take place there before
long.

I had fondly imagined that after reaching Natchez my difficulties would
have been over; but I very soon discovered that this was a delusive
hope. I found that Natchez was full of the most gloomy rumours. Another
Yankee raid seemed to have been made into the interior of Mississippi,
more railroad is reported to be destroyed, and great doubts were
expressed whether I should be able to get into Vicksburg at all.

However, as I found some other people as determined to proceed as
myself, we hired a carriage for $100 to drive to Brookhaven, which is
the nearest point on the railroad, and is distant from Natchez 66 miles.

My companions were a fat Government contractor from Texas, the wounded
Missourian Mr Douglas, and an ugly woman, wife to a soldier in
Vicksburg.

We left Natchez at 12 noon, and were driven by a negro named Nelson; the
carriage and the three horses belong to him, and he drives it for his
own profit; but he is, nevertheless, a slave, and pays his owner $4-1/2
a-week to be allowed to work on his own account. He was quite as vain as
and even more amusing than Tucker. He said he "didn't want to see no
Yanks, nor to be no freer than he is;" and he thought the war had
already lasted four or five years.

Every traveller we met on the road was eagerly asked the questions,
"Are the Yanks in Brookhaven? Is the railroad open?" At first we
received satisfactory replies; but at 6 P.M. we met an officer driving
towards Natchez at a great pace; he gave us the alarming intelligence
that _Jackson_ was going to be evacuated. Now, as Jackson is the capital
city of this state, a great railroad junction, and on the highroad to
every civilised place from this, our feelings may be imagined, but we
did not believe it possible. On the other hand we were told that General
Joseph Johnston had arrived and assumed the command in Mississippi. He
appears to be an officer in whom every one places unbounded confidence.

We slept at a farmhouse. All the males were absent at the war, and it is
impossible to exaggerate the unfortunate condition of the women left
behind in these farmhouses; they have scarcely any clothes, and nothing
but the coarsest bacon to eat, and are in miserable uncertainty as to
the fate of their relations, whom they can hardly ever communicate with.
Their slaves, however, generally remain true to them.

Our hostess, though she was reduced to the greatest distress, was
well-mannered, and exceedingly well educated; very far superior to a
woman of her station in England.

       *       *       *       *       *

_16th May_ (Saturday).--We started a little before daylight, our team
looking so very mean that we expressed doubts as to their lasting--to Mr
Nelson's great indignation.

We breakfasted at another little farmhouse on some unusually tough
bacon, and coffee made of sweet potatoes. The natives, under all their
misery, were red-hot in favour of fighting for independence to the last,
and I constantly hear the words, "This is the most unjust war ever waged
upon a people by mortal man."

At 11 A.M. we met a great crowd of negroes, who had been run into the
swamps to be out of the way of the Yankees, and they were now returning
to Louisiana.

At 2 P.M. a wounded soldier gave us the deplorable information that the
enemy really was on the railroad between Jackson and Brookhaven, and
that Jackson itself was in his hands. This news staggered us all, and
Nelson became alarmed for the safety of his wretched animals; but we all
determined to go on at all hazards and see what turned up.

We halted for dinner at a farmhouse in which were seven virgins seated
all of a row. They were all good-looking, but shy and bashful to a
degree I never before witnessed. All the young women in this country
seem to be either uncommonly free-spoken, or else extremely shy.

The further we went the more certain became the news of the fall of
Jackson.

We passed the night in the verandah of an old farmer. He told us that
Grierson's Yankee raid had captured him about three weeks ago. He
thought the Yankees were about 1500 strong; they took all good horses,
leaving their worn-out ones behind. They destroyed railroad, Government
property, and arms, and paroled all men, both old and young, but they
committed no barbarities. In this manner they traversed all the State of
Mississippi without meeting any resistance. They were fine looking men
from the North-western States.

       *       *       *       *       *

_17th May_ (Sunday).--We started again at 4.30 A.M., and met five
wounded men who had been captured and paroled by Banks in Louisiana;
they confirmed everything about the fall of Jackson, which made me
consider myself particularly unfortunate, and destined apparently to be
always intercepted by the Northern troops, which had happened to me at
Alexandria, at Harrisonburg, and now again at Jackson.

At 8 A.M. we reached the little town of Brookhaven, which was full of
travellers, principally Confederate soldiers, anxious to rejoin their
regiments.

Maxey's brigade left this place by road last night to join General
Johnston, who is supposed to be concentrating his forces at a place
called Canton, not far from Jackson.

I called on Captain Matthews, the officer who commanded at Brookhaven,
and after introducing myself to him, he promised to assist me, by every
means in his power, to join General Johnston.

I then went to a Methodist chapel; a good many soldiers were there, and
great number of women.

At noon, just as I had begun to get in very low spirits about the
prospects of getting on, a locomotive arrived from a station called
Haslehurst, and brought us the astonishing report that the Yankees had
suddenly abandoned Jackson, after destroying all the Government, and a
good deal of private, property.

This news caused our prospects to look brighter.

       *       *       *       *       *

_18th May_ (Monday).--On getting up this morning everything appeared
very uncertain, and a thousand contradictory reports and rumours were
flying about.

At 8 o'clock I called on Captain Matthews, and told him my earnest
desire to get on towards Johnston's army at all risks. He kindly
introduced me to the conductor of a locomotive, who offered to take me
to within a few miles of Jackson, if he was not cut off by the enemy,
which seemed extremely probable.

At 9 A.M. I seated myself, in company with about twenty soldiers, on the
engine, and we started towards Jackson.

On reaching Crystal Springs, half-way to Jackson, we found General
Loring's division crossing the railroad and marching east. It had been
defeated, with the loss of most of its artillery, three days before, and
was now cut off from General Pemberton.

At 5 P.M. the conductor stopped the engine, and put us out at a spot
distant nine miles from Jackson; and as I could procure no shelter,
food, or conveyance there, I found myself in a terrible fix.

At this juncture a French boy rode up on horseback, and volunteered to
carry my saddlebags as far as Jackson, if I could walk and carry the
remainder.

Gladly accepting this unexpected offer, I started with him to walk up
the railroad, as he assured me the Yankees really had gone; and during
the journey, he gave me a description of their conduct during the short
time they had occupied the city.

On arriving within three miles of Jackson, I found the railroad
destroyed by the enemy, who, after pulling up the track, had made piles
of the sleepers, and then put the rails in layers on the top of these
heaps; they had then set fire to the sleepers, which had caused the
rails to bend when red hot; the wooden bridges had also been set on
fire, and were still smoking.

When within a mile and a half of Jackson I met four men, who stopped
and questioned me very suspiciously, but they at length allowed me to
proceed, saying that these "were curious times."

After another mile I reached a mild trench, which was dignified by the
name of the fortifications of Jackson. A small fight had taken place
there four days previous, when General Johnston had evacuated the city.

When I got inside this trench I came to the spot on which a large body
of the Yankees had recently been encamped; they had set fire to a great
quantity of stores and arms, which they had been unable to carry away
with them, and which were still burning, and were partially destroyed. I
observed also great numbers of pikes and pikeheads amongst the debris.

At the entrance to the town the French boy took me to the house of his
relatives, and handed me my saddlebags. These French people told me they
had been much ill-treated, notwithstanding their French nationality.
They showed me their broken furniture, and they assured me that they had
been robbed of everything of any value.

I then shouldered my saddlebags, and walked through the smoking and
desolate streets towards the Bowmont House Hotel.

I had not proceeded far before a man with long grey hair and an
enormous revolver rode up to me, and offered to carry my saddlebags. He
then asked me who I was; and after I told him, he thought a few moments,
and then said, "Well, sir, you must excuse me, but if you are a British
officer, I can't make out what on earth you are doing at Jackson just
now." I could not but confess that this was rather a natural idea, and
that my presence in this burning town must have seemed rather odd, more
especially as I was obliged to acknowledge that I was there entirely of
my own free will, and for my own amusement.

Mr Smythe, for so this individual was named, then told me, that if I was
really the person I represented myself, I should be well treated by all;
but that if I could not prove myself to be an English officer, an event
would happen which it was not difficult to foresee, and the idea caused
a disagreeable sensation about the throat.

Mr Smythe then gave me to understand that I must remain a prisoner for
the present. He conducted me to a room in the Bowmont House Hotel, and I
found myself speedily surrounded by a group of eager and excited
citizens, who had been summoned by Smythe to _conduct my examination_.

At first they were inclined to be disagreeable. They examined my
clothes, and argued as to whether they were of English manufacture.
Some, who had been in London, asked me questions about the streets of
the metropolis, and about my regiment. One remarked that I was "_mighty
young for a lootenant-colonel_."

When I suggested that they should treat me with proper respect until I
was proved to be a spy, they replied that their city had been brutally
pillaged by the Yankees, and that there were many suspicious characters
about.

Everything now looked very threatening, and it became evident to me that
nothing would relieve the minds of these men so much as a hanging match.
I looked in vain for some one to take my part, and I could not even get
any person to examine my papers.

At this critical juncture a new character appeared on the scene in the
shape of a big heavy man who said to me, "My name is Dr Russell; I'm an
Irishman, and I hate the British Government and the English nation; but
if you are really an officer in the Coldstream Guards there is nothing I
won't do for you; you shall come to my house and I will protect you."

I immediately showed Dr Russell my passport and letters of introduction
to General Johnston and other Confederate officers; he pronounced them
genuine, promised to stand by me, and wanted to take me away with him at
once.

But observing that the countenances of Smythe and his colleagues did not
by any means express satisfaction at this arrangement, I announced my
determination to stay where I was until I was released by the military
authorities, with whom I demanded an immediate audience.

A very handsome cavalry officer called Captain Yerger, shortly
afterwards arrived, who released me at once--asked me to his mother's
house, and promised that I should join a brigade which was to march for
General Johnston's camp on the following morning.

All the citizens seemed to be satisfied by the result of my interview
with Captain Yerger, and most of them insisted on shaking hands and
"liquoring up," in horrible whisky.

Smythe, however, was an exception to this rule. He evidently thought he
had effected a grand capture, and was not at all satisfied at the turn
of affairs. I believe to his dying day he will think I am a spy; but it
was explained to me that his house had been burnt down by the Yankees
two days before, which had made him unusually venomous.

They told me that Dr Russell had saved his property from pillage in the
following manner:--He had seated himself in his verandah, with a loaded
double-barrelled gun on his knees, and when the pillagers approached, he
addressed them in the following manner: "No man can die more than once,
and I shall never be more ready to die than I am now: there is nothing
to prevent your going into this house, except that I shall kill the
first two of you who move with this gun. Now then, gentlemen, walk in."
This speech is said to have saved Dr Russell from further annoyance, and
his property from the ruin which overtook his neighbours.

Jackson, the capital of the State of Mississippi, is a place of great
importance. Four railroads meet here, and have been destroyed in each
direction for a distance of from three to five miles. All the numerous
factories have been burnt down by the enemy, who were of course
justified in doing so; but during the short space of thirty-six hours,
in which General Grant occupied the city, his troops had wantonly
pillaged nearly all the private houses. They had gutted all the stores,
and destroyed what they could not carry away. All this must have been
done under the very eyes of General Grant, whose name was in the book of
the Bowmont House Hotel.

I saw the ruins of the Roman Catholic church, the priest's house, and
the principal hotel, which were still smoking, together with many other
buildings which could in no way be identified with the Confederate
Government. The whole town was a miserable wreck, and presented a
deplorable aspect.

Nothing could exceed the intense hatred and fury with which its excited
citizens speak of the outrages they have undergone--of their desire for
a bloody revenge, and of their hope that the Black Flag might be
raised.[25]

I had previously heard the Jacksonians spoken of as not being
particularly zealous in the war. Heaven knows General Grant had now
converted them into good and earnest rebels.

At 8 P.M. I called at Captain Yerger's house and found him with General
Gist and another officer lying flat on their stomachs poring over a map.
Captain Yerger then introduced me to the ladies of his family, who were
extremely pretty, very amiable, and highly patriotic.

The house is charming, and, being outside the town, it had by good luck
escaped destruction and pillage.

After supper, the ladies played and sang, and I ended an eventful day in
a very agreeable manner.

General Gist promised that I should accompany his brigade to-morrow on
its march towards General Johnston, and Mrs Yerger insisted that I
should pass the night at her house.

In this part of the country the prospects of the Confederacy appeared to
be very gloomy. General Joseph Johnston, who commands the whole Western
Department, only arrived from Tennessee last Wednesday, and on the
following day he found himself obliged to abandon Jackson to an
overwhelming Northern army, after making a short fight to enable his
baggage to escape.

General Pemberton, who had hitherto held the chief command, is abused by
all. He was beaten on Saturday at Baker's Creek, where he lost the
greater part of his artillery. He had retired into Vicksburg, and was
now completely shut up there by the victorious Grant.

General Maxey's brigade, about 5000 strong, was near Brookhaven, and was
marching east when I was there. General Loring's force, cut off from
Pemberton, was near Crystal Springs. General Johnston, with about 6000
men, was supposed to be near Canton. General Gist's troops, about 5500
strong, were close by, having arrived from South Carolina and Georgia,
just too late to defend Jackson.

The enemy, under General Grant, in vastly superior force, was pressing
Vicksburg very hard, and had now completely invested that fortress.

The great object of the Confederates must, of course, be to unite their
scattered forces under so able a general as Johnston, and then relieve
Vicksburg.

[25] Since this date, the unfortunate city of Jackson has been again
subjected to pillage by the Federals after the capture of Vicksburg.

       *       *       *       *       *

_19th May_ (Tuesday).--The landlord of the Bowmont House gave a
breakfast at 7 A.M. to General Gist and his Staff, to which I also was
invited.

Shortly afterwards I was given a seat in a curious little vehicle
belonging to Lieutenant Martino, a Spaniard, in the Confederate army.
This vehicle caused considerable merriment amongst the soldiers, who
called it a chicken-waggon.

We left Jackson with the leading troops about 8 A.M., amidst a great
waving of handkerchiefs and showers of flowers, thrown by the few
remaining ladies who were still left in that dilapidated place.

The corps under General Gist consisted of three weak brigades, the
leading one composed of Georgians and South Carolinians; the next were
Texans, under General Ector; and the last were Arkansians, under General
M'Nair. General Gist had twelve good-looking Napoleon guns with him
(twelve-pounders). The horses were fine animals, and were in wonderful
good condition, considering that they had been ten days in the railroad
coming from South Carolina.

The troops were roughly but efficiently clothed; their boots were in
good order, and all were armed with Enfield rifles.

The weather was very hot, and we were halted to bivouac for the night,
at a spot about seventeen miles from Jackson, on the road towards
Vicksburg.

The straggling of the Georgians was on the grandest scale conceivable;
the men fell out by dozens, and seemed to suit their own convenience in
that respect, without interference on the part of the officers. But I
was told that these regiments had never done any marching before, having
hitherto been quartered in forts and transported by railroad.

The country is much covered with woods, and is sandy, with very little
water.

I did not consider that the troops were marched judiciously; they were
halted too long at a time, and not often enough. The baggage was carried
on country carts pressed into the service.

We bivouacked in the woods near a very pretty house, belonging to a
planter called Colonel Robinson. These immense woods make admirable
bivouacs.

General State Rights Gist is a South Carolinian, only thirty-two years
of age, and although not educated as a soldier, he seems easily to have
adapted himself to the military profession. He looks a determined man,
and he takes responsibility very coolly. In the early part of the day he
was very doubtful as to the exact whereabouts of General Johnston; but
about noon a courier arrived, from whom he received important and
satisfactory information, otherwise General Gist had made up his mind
for some "nasty work" before the junction could be effected. He told me
that the present expedition was rather inconvenient to him, as he had
only been married three days before he left Charleston. He lent me a
magnificent rug, and I slept very comfortably in the open air for the
first time since I was in Texas.

       *       *       *       *       *

_20th May_ (Wednesday).--At 3 A.M. we were awoke by a great bombardment
going on at Vicksburg, which lasted about three hours.[26]

The assembly was beaten at 7 A.M. by an old nigger, performing on a
cracked drum, and its sound was hailed by the soldiers with loud yells.

General Gist, his Staff, and I, breakfasted with Mr Robinson, whose
house is charming, and beautifully furnished, and had not been visited
by the Yankees.

We had a crazy old planter, named ----, with us, who insisted upon
accompanying the column, mounted on a miserable animal which had been
left him by the enemy as not being worth carrying away. The small
remains of this poor old man's sense had been shattered by the Yankees a
few days ago; they cleaned him completely out, taking his horses, mules,
cows, and pigs, and stealing his clothes and anything they wanted,
destroying what they could not carry away. But what "riled" him most was
that he had been visited by a Federal officer, disguised in the
Confederate uniform. Poor old ----, full of rebel zeal, had, on being
invited to do so, mounted _en croupe_ behind this officer, and unbosomed
himself to him; his fury and rage may be imagined at finding himself
shortly afterwards in the very midst of the Federal camp; but the Yankee
General M'Pherson ordered him to be released; and it appears that the
reason of his being kidnapped, was to extract from him a large quantity
of gold, which he was supposed to have hidden somewhere.

This Mr (or Major[27]) ---- took a great fancy to me, and insisted on
picking some of the silk of Indian corn, which he requested I would
present to Queen Victoria to show her how far advanced the crops were in
Mississippi. It was almost painful to hear the manner in which this poor
old man gloated over the bodies of the dead Yankees at Jackson, and of
his intense desire to see more of them put to death.

The column reached the village or town of Livingston at 11 A.M., where
I was introduced to a militia general and his pretty daughter; the
latter had been married two days before to a wounded Confederate
officer, but the happy couple were just on the point of starting for the
Yazoo river, as they were afraid of being disturbed in their felicity by
the Yankees.

I now heard every one speaking of the fall of Vicksburg as very
possible, and its jeopardy was laid at the door of General Pemberton,
for whom no language could be too strong. He was freely called a coward
and a traitor. He has the misfortune to be a Northerner by birth, which
was against him in the opinion of all here.

General Gist and I cantered on in front of the column, and reached
General Johnston's bivouac at 6 P.M.

General Johnston received me with much kindness, when I presented my
letters of introduction, and stated my object in visiting the
Confederate armies.

In appearance General Joseph E. Johnston (commonly called Joe
Johnston) is rather below the middle height, spare, soldierlike, and
well set up; his features are good, and he has lately taken to wear a
greyish beard. He is a Virginian by birth, and appears to be about
fifty-seven years old. He talks in a calm, deliberate, and confident
manner; to me he was extremely affable, but he certainly possesses the
power of keeping people at a distance when he chooses, and his officers
evidently stand in great awe of him. He lives very plainly, and at
present his only cooking-utensils consisted of an old coffee-pot and
frying-pan--both very inferior articles. There was only one fork (one
prong deficient) between himself and Staff, and this was handed to me
ceremoniously as the "guest."

[Illustration: GENERAL JOSEPH E. JOHNSTON.]

He has undoubtedly acquired the entire confidence of all the officers
and soldiers under him. Many of the officers told me they did not
consider him inferior as a general to Lee or any one else.

He told me that Vicksburg was certainly in a critical situation, and was
now closely invested by Grant. He said that he (Johnston) had 11,000 men
with him (which includes Gist's), hardly any cavalry, and only sixteen
pieces of cannon; but if he could get adequate reinforcements, he stated
his intention of endeavouring to relieve Vicksburg.

I also made the acquaintance of the Georgian General Walker, a fierce
and very warlike fire-eater, who was furious at having been obliged to
evacuate Jackson after having only destroyed four hundred Yankees. He
told me, "I know I couldn't hold the place, but I did want to kill a few
more of the rascals."

At 9 P.M. I returned with General Gist to his camp, as my baggage was
there. On the load we were met by several natives, who complained that
soldiers were quartering themselves upon them and eating everything.

The bivouacs are extremely pretty at night, the dense woods being lit up
by innumerable camp fires.

[26] I afterwards learnt that this bombardment preceded one of the
unsuccessful assaults.

[27] Nearly every man in this part of the country has a military title.

       *       *       *       *       *

_21st May_ (Thursday).--I rejoined General Johnston at 9 A.M., and was
received into his mess. Major Eustis and Lieutenant Washington, officers
of his Staff, are thorough gentlemen, and did all in their power to make
me comfortable. The first is a Louisianian of wealth (formerly); his
negro always speaks French. He is brother to the secretary of Mr Slidell
in Paris, and has learnt to become an excellent Staff officer.

I was presented to Captain Henderson, who commanded a corps of about
fifty "scouts." These are employed on the hazardous duty of hanging
about the enemy's camps, collecting information, and communicating with
Pemberton in Vicksburg. They are a fine-looking lot of men, wild, and
very picturesque in appearance.

At 12 noon a Yankee military surgeon came to camp. He had been left
behind by Grant to look after the Yankee wounded at Jackson, and he was
now anxious to rejoin his general by flag of truce, but General Johnston
very prudently refused to allow this, and desired that he should be sent
to the North _viâ_ Richmond. By a very sensible arrangement, both sides
have agreed to treat doctors as non-combatants, and not to make
prisoners of war of them.

The chief surgeon in Johnston's army is a very clever and amusing
Kentuckian, named Dr Yandell. He told me he had been educated in
England, and might have had a large practice there.

My friend "Major" ---- very kindly took me to dine with a neighbouring
planter, named Harrold, at whose house I met General Gregg, a Texan,
who, with his brigade, fought the Yankees at Raymond a few days ago.

After dinner, I asked Mr Harrold to take me over the quarters of his
slaves, which he did immediately. The huts were comfortable and very
clean; the negroes seemed fond of their master, but he told me they were
suffering dreadfully from the effects of the war--he had so much
difficulty in providing them with clothes and shoes. I saw an old woman
in one of the huts, who had been suffering from an incurable disease for
thirteen years, and was utterly useless. She was evidently well cared
for, and was treated with affection and care. At all events, she must
have benefited largely by the "peculiar institution."

I have often told these planters that I thought the word "slave" was
the most repulsive part of the institution, and I have always observed
they invariably shirk using it themselves. They speak of their servant,
their boy, or their negroes, but never of their slaves. They address a
negro as boy or girl, or uncle or aunty.

In the evening I asked General Johnston what prospect he thought there
was of early operations, and he told me that at present he was too weak
to do any good, and he was unable to give me any definite idea as to
when he might be strong enough to attack Grant. I therefore made up my
mind to be off in a day or two, unless something turned up, as I could
not afford to wait for events, I have still so much to see.

General Johnston is a very well-read man, and agreeable to converse
with. He told me that he considered Marlborough a greater general than
Wellington. All Americans have an intense admiration for Napoleon; they
seldom scruple to express their regret that he was beaten at Waterloo.

Remarking upon the extreme prevalence of military titles, General
Johnston said, "You must be astonished to find how fond all Americans
are of titles, though they are republicans; and as they can't get any
other sort, they all take military ones."

Whilst seated round the camp fire in the evening, one of the officers
remarked to me, "I can assure you, colonel, that nine men out of ten in
the South would sooner become subjects of Queen Victoria than return to
the Union." "Nine men out of ten!" said General Johnston--"ninety-nine
out of a hundred; I consider that few people in the world can be more
fortunate in their government than the British colonies of North
America." But the effect of these compliments was rather spoilt when
some one else said they would prefer to serve under the Emperor of the
French or the Emperor of Japan to returning to the dominion of Uncle
Abe; and it was still more damaged when another officer alluded in an
undertone to the infernal regions as a more agreeable alternative than
reunion with the Yankees.

       *       *       *       *       *

_22d May_ (Friday).--The bombardment at Vicksburg was very heavy and
continuous this morning.

I had a long conversation with General Johnston, who told me that the
principal evils which a Confederate general had to contend against
consisted in the difficulty of making combinations, owing to uncertainty
about the time which the troops would take to march a certain distance,
on account of their straggling propensities.

But from what I have seen and heard _as yet_, it appears to me that
the Confederates possess certain great qualities as soldiers, such as
individual bravery and natural aptitude in the use of firearms, strong,
determined patriotism, and boundless confidence in their favourite
generals, and in themselves. They are sober of necessity, as there is
literally no liquor to be got. They have sufficient good sense to know
that a certain amount of discipline is absolutely necessary; and I
believe that instances of insubordination are extremely rare. They
possess the great advantage of being led by men of talent and education
as soldiers who thoroughly understand the people they have to lead, as
well as those they have to beat. These generals, such as Lee, Johnston,
Beauregard, or Longstreet, they would follow anywhere, and obey
implicitly. But, on the other hand, many of their officers, looking
forward to future political advancement, owing to their present military
rank, will not punish their men, or are afraid of making themselves
obnoxious by enforcing rigid discipline. The men are constantly in the
habit of throwing away their knapsacks and blankets on a long march, if
not carried for them, and though actuated by the strongest and purest
patriotism, can often not be got to consider their obligations as
soldiers. In the early part of the war they were often, when victorious,
nearly as disorganised as the beaten, and many would coolly walk off
home, under the impression that they had performed their share. But they
are becoming better in these respects as the war goes on.[28]

All this would account for the trifling benefits derived by the
Confederates from their numerous victories.

General Johnston told me that Grant had displayed more vigour than he
had expected, by crossing the river below Vicksburg, seizing Jackson by
vastly superior force, and, after cutting off communications, investing
the fortress thoroughly, so as to take it if possible before a
sufficient force could be got to relieve it. His army is estimated at
75,000 men, and General Johnston has very little opinion of the defences
of Vicksburg on the land side. He said the garrison consisted of about
20,000 men.

News has been received that the Yankees were getting up the Yazoo river;
and this morning General Walker's division left at 6 A.M. for Yazoo
city.

The General with his Staff and myself rode into Canton, six miles, and
lodged in the house of a planter who owned 700 slaves.

Dr Yandell is a wonderful mimic, and amused us much by taking off the
marriage ceremony, as performed by General Polk in Tennessee--General
Morgan of Kentucky notoriety being the bridegroom.[29]

One of Henderson's scouts caused much hilarity amongst the General's
Staff this afternoon. He had brought in a Yankee prisoner, and
_apologised_ to General Johnston for doing so, saying, "I found him in a
negro quarter, and _he surrendered so quick, I couldn't kill him_."
There can be no doubt that the conduct of the Federals in captured
cities tends to create a strong indisposition on the part of the
Confederates to take prisoners, particularly amongst these wild
Mississippians.

General Johnston told me this evening that altogether he had been
wounded ten times. He was the senior officer of the old army who joined
the Confederates, and he commanded the Virginian army until he was
severely wounded at the battle of "Seven Pines."[30]

[28] After having lived with the veterans of Bragg and Lee, I was able
to form a still higher estimate of Confederate soldiers. Their obedience
and forbearance in success, their discipline under disaster, their
patience under suffering, under hardships, or when wounded, and their
boundless devotion to their country under all circumstances, are beyond
all praise.

[29] When I was introduced to General Polk in Tennessee I recognised him
at once by Dr Yandell's imitation, which was most wonderfully accurate.

[30] Called "Fairoaks" by the Yankees.

       *       *       *       *       *

_23d May_ (Saturday).--General Johnston, Major Eustis, and myself, left
Canton at 6 A.M. on a locomotive for Jackson.

On the way we talked a good deal about "Stonewall" Jackson. General
Johnston said that although this extraordinary man did not possess any
great qualifications as a strategist, and was perhaps unfit for the
independent command of a large army; yet he was gifted with wonderful
courage and determination, and a perfect faith in Providence that he was
destined to destroy his enemy. He was much indebted to General Ewell in
the valley campaigns. Stonewall Jackson was also most fortunate in
commanding the flower of the Virginian troops, and in being opposed to
the most incapable Federal commanders, such as Fremont and Banks.

Before we had proceeded twelve miles we were forced to stop and collect
wood from the roadside to feed our engine, and the General worked with
so much energy as to cause his "Seven Pines" wound to give him pain.

We were put out at a spot where the railroad was destroyed, at about
four miles from Jackson. A carriage ought to have been in waiting for
us, but by some mistake it had not arrived, so we had to foot it. I was
obliged to carry my heavy saddlebags. Major Eustis very kindly took my
knapsack, and the General carried the cloaks. In this order we reached
Jackson, much exhausted, at 9.30 A.M.

General Loring came and reported himself soon after. He is a stout man
with one arm. His division had arrived at Jackson from Crystal Springs
about 6000 strong; Evans's brigade, about 3000, had also arrived from
Charleston; and Maxey's brigade was in the act of marching into Jackson.
I calculate, therefore, that General Johnston must now have nearly
25,000 men between Jackson and the Yazoo.

I took an affectionate farewell of him and his officers, and he returned
to Canton at 3 P.M. I shall be much surprised if he is not heard of
before long. That portion of his troops which I saw, though they had
been beaten and forced to retreat, were in excellent spirits, full of
confidence, and clamouring to be led against _only_ double their
numbers.

I renewed my acquaintance with Dr Russell, for whose timely protection I
shall always feel myself much indebted. I also sent my love to Smythe by
several different people.

At 3.30 P.M. I left Jackson in a Government ambulance, in company with
Captain Brown of General Johnston's Staff, who was extremely useful to
me. I had taken the precaution of furnishing myself with a pass from
Colonel Ewell, the adjutant-general, which I afterwards discovered was
absolutely necessary, as I was asked for it continually, and on the
railroad every person's passport was rigidly examined.

We drove to the nearest point at which the railroad was in working
order, a distance of nearly five miles.

We then got into the cars at 6 P.M. for Meridian. This piece of railroad
was in a most dangerous state, and enjoys the reputation of being the
very worst of all the bad railroads in the South. It was completely worn
out, and could not be repaired. Accidents are of almost daily
occurrence, and a nasty one had happened the day before.

After we had proceeded five miles, our engine ran off the track, which
caused a stoppage of three hours. All male passengers had to get out to
push along the cars.

       *       *       *       *       *

_24th May_ (Sunday).--We reached Meridian at 7.30 A.M., with sound
limbs, and only five hours late.

We left for Mobile at 9 A.M., and arrived there at 7.15 P.M. This part
of the line was in very good order.

We were delayed a short time owing to a "_difficulty_" which had
occurred in the up-train. The difficulty was this. The engineer had shot
a passenger, and then unhitched his engine, cut the telegraph, and
bolted up the line, leaving his train planted on a single track. He had
allowed our train to pass by shunting himself, until we had done so
without any suspicion. The news of this occurrence caused really hardly
any excitement amongst my fellow-travellers; but I heard one man remark,
that "it was mighty mean to leave a train to be run into like that." We
avoided this catastrophe by singular good fortune.[31]

The universal practice of carrying arms in the South is undoubtedly the
cause of occasional loss of life, and is much to be regretted; but, on
the other hand, this custom renders altercations and quarrels of very
rare occurrence, for people are naturally careful what they say when a
bullet may be the probable reply.

By the intercession of Captain Brown, I was allowed to travel in the
ladies' car. It was cleaner and more convenient, barring the squalling
of the numerous children, who were terrified into good behaviour by
threats from their negro nurses of being given to the Yankees.

I put up at the principal hotel at Mobile--viz., the "Battlehouse." The
living appeared to be very good by comparison, and cost $8 a-day. In
consequence of the fabulous value of boots, they must not be left
outside the door of one's room, from danger of annexation by a needy and
unscrupulous warrior.

[31] I cut this out of a Mobile paper two days after:--

"ATTEMPT TO COMMIT MURDER.--We learn that while the up-train on the
Mobile and Ohio Railroad was near Beaver Meadow, one of the employees,
named Thomas Fitzgerald, went into one of the passenger cars and shot
Lieutenant H. A. Knowles with a pistol, the ball entering his left
shoulder, going out at the back of his neck, making a very dangerous
wound. Fitzgerald then uncoupled the locomotive from the train and
started off. When a few miles above Beaver Meadows he stopped and cut
the telegraph wires, and then proceeded up the road. When near
Lauderdale station he came in collision with the down-train, smashing
the engine, and doing considerable damage to several of the cars.[32] It
is thought he there took to the woods; at any rate he has made good his
escape so far, as nothing of him has yet been heard. The shooting, as we
are informed, was that of revenge. It will be remembered that a few
months ago Knowles and a brother of Thomas Fitzgerald, named Jack, had a
renconter at Enterprise about a lady, and during which Knowles killed
Jack Fitzgerald; afterwards it is stated that Thomas threatened to
revenge the death of his brother; so on Sunday morning Knowles was on
the train, as stated, going up to Enterprise to stand his trial. Thomas
learning that he was on the train, hunted him up and shot him. Knowles,
we learn, is now lying in a very critical condition."

[32] This is a mistake.

       *       *       *       *       *

_25th May_ (Monday).--I was disappointed in the aspect of Mobile. It is
a regular rectangular American city, built on a sandy flat, and covering
a deal of ground for its population, which is about 25,000.

I called on General Maury, for whom I brought a letter of introduction
from General Johnston. He is a very gentlemanlike and intelligent but
diminutive Virginian, and had only just assumed the command at Mobile.

He was very civil, and took me in a steamer to see the sea defences. We
were accompanied by General Ledbetter the engineer, and we were six
hours visiting the forts.

Mobile is situated at the head of a bay thirty miles long. The
blockading squadron, eight to ten in number, is stationed outside the
bay, the entrance to which is defended by forts Morgan and Gaines; but
as the channel between these two forts is a mile wide, they might
probably be passed.

Within two miles of the city, however, the bay becomes very shallow, and
the ship channel is both dangerous and tortuous. It is, moreover,
obstructed by double rows of pine piles, and all sorts of ingenious
torpedos, besides being commanded by carefully constructed forts, armed
with heavy guns, and built either on islands or on piles.

Their names are Fort Pinto, Fort Spanish River, Apalache, and
Blakeley.[33]

The garrisons of these forts complained of their being unhealthy, and I
did not doubt the assertion. Before landing, we boarded two ironclad
floating-batteries. The Confederate fleet at Mobile is considerable, and
reflects great credit upon the energy of the Mobilians, as it has been
constructed since the commencement of the war. During the trip, I
overheard General Maury soliloquising over a Yankee flag, and saying,
"Well, I never should have believed that I could have lived to see the
day in which I should detest that old flag." He is cousin to Lieutenant
Maury, who has distinguished himself so much by his writings, on
physical geography especially. The family seems to be a very military
one. His brother is captain of the Confederate steamer Georgia.

After landing, I partook of a hasty dinner with General Maury and Major
Cummins. I was then mounted on the General's horse, and was sent to
gallop round the land defences with Brigadier-General Slaughter and his
Staff. By great good fortune this was the evening of General Slaughter's
weekly inspection, and all the redoubts were manned by their respective
garrisons, consisting half of soldiers and half of armed citizens who
had been exempted from the conscription either by their age or
nationality, or had purchased substitutes. One of the forts was defended
by a burly British guard, commanded by a venerable Captain Wheeler.[34]

After visiting the fortifications, I had supper at General Slaughter's
house, and met there some of the refugees from New Orleans--these are
now being huddled neck and crop out of that city for refusing to take
the oath of allegiance to the United States. Great numbers of women and
children are arriving at Mobile every day; they are in a destitute
condition, and they add to the universal feeling of exasperation. The
propriety of raising the black flag, and giving no quarter, was again
freely discussed at General Slaughter's, and was evidently the popular
idea. I heard many anecdotes of the late "Stonewall Jackson," who was
General Slaughter's comrade in the Artillery of the old army. It appears
that previous to the war he was almost a monomaniac about his health.
When he left the U.S. service he was under the impression that one of
his legs was getting shorter than the other; and afterwards his idea was
that he only perspired on one side, and that it was necessary to keep
the arm and leg of the other side in constant motion in order to
preserve the circulation; but it seems that immediately the war broke
out he never made any further allusion to his health. General Slaughter
declared that on the night after the terrific repulse of Burnside's army
at Fredericksburg, Stonewall Jackson had made the following
suggestion:--"I am of opinion that we ought to attack the enemy at once;
and in order to avoid the confusion and mistakes so common in a
night-attack, I recommend that we should all strip ourselves perfectly
naked."[35] Blockade-running goes on very regularly at Mobile; the
steamers nearly always succeed, but the schooners are generally
captured. To-morrow I shall start for the Tennessean army, commanded by
General Braxton Bragg.

[33] A description of either its sea or land defences is necessarily
omitted.

[34] Its members were British subjects exempted from the conscription,
but they had volunteered to fight in defence of the city.

[35] I always forgot to ask General Lee whether this story was a true
one.

       *       *       *       *       *

_26th May_ (Tuesday).--When I took Colonel Ewell's pass to the
provost-marshal's office this morning to be countersigned, that official
hesitated about stamping it, but luckily a man in his office came to my
rescue, and volunteered to say that, although he didn't know me himself,
he had heard me spoken of by others as "a very respectable gentleman." I
was only just in time to catch the twelve o'clock steamer for the
Montgomery railroad. I overheard two negroes on board discussing affairs
in general; they were deploring the war, and expressing their hatred of
the Yankees for bringing "sufferment on us as well as our masters." Both
of them had evidently a great aversion to being "run off," as they
called it. One of them wore his master's sword, of which he was very
proud, and he strutted about in a most amusing and consequential manner.

I got into the railroad cars at 2.30 P.M.; the pace was not at all bad,
had we not stopped so often and for such a long time for wood and water.
I sat opposite to a wounded soldier who told me he was an Englishman
from Chelsea. He said he was returning to his regiment, although his
wound in the neck often gave him great pain. The spirit with which
wounded men return to the front, even although their wounds are
imperfectly healed, is worthy of all praise, and shows the indomitable
determination of the Southern people. In the same car there were several
quite young boys of fifteen or sixteen who were badly wounded, and one
or two were minus arms and legs, of which deficiencies they were
evidently very vain.

The country through which we passed was a dense pine forest, sandy soil,
and quite desolate, very uninviting to an invading army. We travelled
all night.

       *       *       *       *       *

_27th May_ (Wednesday).--Arrived at Montgomery, the capital of Alabama,
at daylight, and left it by another railroad at 5.30 A.M.

All State capitals appear to resemble one another, and look like bits
cut off from great cities. One or two streets have a good deal of
pretension about them; and the inevitable "Capitol," with its dome,
forms the principal feature. A sentry stands at the door of each railway
car, who examines the papers of every passenger with great strictness,
and even after that inspection the same ceremony is performed by an
officer of the provost-marshal's department, who accompanies every
train.[36] The officers and soldiers on this duty are very civil and
courteous, and after getting over their astonishment at finding that I
am a British officer, they do all they can to make me comfortable. They
ask all sorts of curious questions about the British army, and often
express a strong wish to see _one of our regiments fight_. They can
hardly believe that the Coldstream is really dressed in scarlet. To-day
they entered gravely into a discussion amongst themselves, as to whether
British troops would have taken the position at Fredericksburg. The
arguments on both sides were very amusing, and opinion was pretty evenly
divided. We met three trains crammed full of soldiers for Johnston's
army. They belonged to Breckenridge's division of Bragg's army, and all
seemed in the highest spirits, cheering and yelling like demons. In the
cars to-day I fell in with the Federal doctor who was refused leave to
pass through General Johnston's lines; he was now _en route_ for
Richmond. He was in full Yankee uniform, but was treated with civility
by all the Confederate soldiers. I had a long talk with him; he seemed a
sensible man, and did not attempt to deny the universal enthusiasm and
determination of the Southerners. He told me that General Grant had been
very nearly killed at the taking of Jackson. He thought the war would
probably terminate by a blow-up in the North.[37]

I had to change cars at West Point and at Atlanta. At the latter place I
was crammed into a desperately crowded train for Chattanooga. This
country, Georgia, is much more inhabited and cultivated than Alabama. I
travelled again all night.

[36] This rigid inspection is necessary to arrest spies, and prevent
straggling and absence without leave.

[37] Notwithstanding the exasperation with which every Southerner speaks
of a Yankee, and all the talk about black flag and no quarter, yet I
never saw a Federal prisoner ill treated or insulted in any way,
although I have travelled hundreds of miles in their company.

       *       *       *       *       *

_28th May_ (Thursday).--I arrived at Chattanooga (Tennessee) at 4.30
A.M., and fell in with Captain Brown again; his negro recognised me, and
immediately rushed up to shake hands.

After breakfasting at Chattanooga, I started again at 7.30, by train,
for Shelbyville, General Bragg's headquarters. This train was crammed to
repletion with soldiers rejoining their regiments, so I was constrained
to sit in the aisle on the floor of one of the cars. I thought myself
lucky even then, for so great was the number of military, that all
"_citizens_" were ordered out to make way for the soldiers; but my grey
shooting-jacket and youthful appearance saved me from the imputation of
being a "citizen." Two hours later, the passport officer, seeing who I
was, procured me a similar situation in the ladies' car, where I was a
little better off. After leaving Chattanooga the railroad winds
alongside of the Tennessee river, the banks of which are high, and
beautifully covered with trees--the river itself is wide, and very
pretty; but from my position in the tobacco-juice I was unable to do
justice to the scenery. I saw stockades at intervals all along the
railroad, which were constructed by the Federals, who occupied all this
country last year.

On arriving at Wartrace at 4 P.M., I determined to remain there, and ask
for hospitality from General Hardee, as I saw no prospect of reaching
Shelbyville in decent time. Leaving my baggage with the provost-marshal
at Wartrace, I walked on to General Hardee's headquarters, which were
distant about two miles from the railroad. They were situated in a
beautiful country, green, undulating, full of magnificent trees,
principally beeches, and the scenery was by far the finest I had seen in
America as yet.

When I arrived I found that General Hardee was in company with General
Polk and Bishop Elliott of Georgia, and also with Mr Vallandigham. The
latter (called the Apostle of Liberty) is a good-looking man, apparently
not much over forty, and had been turned out of the North three days
before. Rosecrans had wished to hand him over to Bragg by flag of truce;
but as the latter declined to receive him in that manner, he was, as
General Hardee expressed it, "_dumped down_" in the neutral ground
between the lines, and left there. He then received hospitality from the
Confederates in the capacity of a destitute stranger. They do not in any
way receive him officially, and it does not suit the policy of either
party to be identified with one another. He is now living at a private
house in Shelbyville, and had come over for the day, with General Polk,
on a visit to Hardee. He told the generals, that if Grant was severely
beaten in Mississippi by Johnston, he did not think the war could be
continued on its present great scale.

When I presented my letters of introduction, General Hardee received me
with the unvarying kindness and hospitality which I had experienced from
all other Confederate officers. He is a fine soldierlike man,
broad-shouldered and tall. He looks rather like a French officer, and is
a Georgian by birth. He bears the reputation of being a thoroughly good
soldier, and he is the author of the drill-book still in use by both
armies. Until quite lately he was commanding officer of the military
college at West Point. He distinguished himself at the battles of
Corinth and Murfreesborough, and now commands the 2d _corps d'armée_ of
Bragg's army. He is a widower, and has the character of being a great
admirer of the fair sex. During the Kentucky campaign last year he was
in the habit of availing himself of the privilege of his rank and years,
and insisted upon kissing the wives and daughters of all the Kentuckian
farmers. And although he is supposed to have converted many of the
ladies to the Southern cause, yet in many instances their male relatives
remained either neutral or undecided. On one occasion General Hardee had
conferred the "accolade" upon a very pretty Kentuckian, to their mutual
satisfaction, when, to his intense disgust, the proprietor produced two
very ugly old females, saying, "Now, then, general, if you kiss any you
must kiss them all round," which the discomfited general was forced to
do, to the great amusement of his officers, who often allude to this
_contretemps_.

Another rebuff which he received, and about which he is often chaffed
by General Polk, was when an old lady told him he ought really to
"leave off fighting _at his age_." "Indeed, madam," replied Hardee,
"and how old do you take me for?" "Why, about the same age as
myself--seventy-five." The chagrin of the stalwart and gallant general,
at having twenty years added to his age, may be imagined.

Lieutenant-General Leonidas Polk, Bishop of Louisiana, who commands the
other _corps d'armée_, is a good-looking, gentlemanlike man, with all
the manners and affability of a "grand seigneur." He is fifty-seven
years of age--tall, upright, and looks much more the soldier than the
clergyman. He is very rich; and I am told he owns seven hundred negroes.
He is much beloved by the soldiers on account of his great personal
courage and agreeable manners. I had already heard no end of anecdotes
of him told me by my travelling companions, who always alluded to him
with affection and admiration. In his clerical capacity I had always
heard him spoken of with the greatest respect. When I was introduced to
him he immediately invited me to come and stay at his headquarters at
Shelbyville. He told me that he was educated at West Point, and was at
that institution with the President, the two Johnstons, Lee, Magruder,
&c., and that, after serving a short time in the artillery, he had
entered the church.

Bishop Elliott, of Georgia, is a nice old man of venerable appearance
and very courteous manners. He is here at the request of General Polk,
for the purpose of confirming some officers and soldiers. He speaks
English exactly like an English gentleman, and so, in fact, does General
Polk, and all the well-bred Southerners, much more so than the ladies,
whose American accent can always be detected. General Polk and Mr
Vallandigham returned to Shelbyville in an ambulance at 6.30 P.M.

General Hardee's headquarters were on the estate of Mrs ----, a very
hospitable lady. The two daughters of the General were staying with her,
and also a Mrs ----, who is a very pretty woman. These ladies are more
violent against the Yankees than it is possible for a European to
conceive; they beat their male relations hollow in their denunciations
and hopes of vengeance. It was quite depressing to hear their
innumerable stories of Yankee brutality, and I was much relieved when,
at a later period of the evening, they subsided into music. After Bishop
Elliott had read prayers, I slept in the same room with General Hardee.

       *       *       *       *       *

_29th May_ (Friday).--I took a walk before breakfast with Dr
Quintard, a zealous Episcopal chaplain, who began life as a surgeon,
which enables him to attend to the bodily as well as the spiritual wants
of the Tennessean regiment to which he is chaplain. The enemy is about
fifteen miles distant, and all the tops of the intervening hills are
occupied as signal stations, which communicate his movements by flags in
the daytime, and by beacons at night. A signal corps has been organised
for this service. The system is most ingenious, and answers admirably.
We all breakfasted at Mrs ----'s. The ladies were more excited even than
yesterday in their diatribes against the Yankees. They insisted on
cutting the accompanying paragraph out of to-day's newspaper, which they
declared was a very fair exposition of the average treatment they
received from the enemy.[38] They reproved Mrs ---- for having given
assistance to the wounded Yankees at Wartrace last year; and a sister of
Mrs ----'s, who is a very strong-minded lady, gave me a most amusing
description of an interview she had had at Huntsville with the
astronomer Mitchell, in his capacity of a Yankee general. It has often
been remarked to me that, when this war is over, the independence of the
country will be due, in a great measure, to the women; for they declare
that had the women been desponding they could never have gone through
with it; but, on the contrary, the women have invariably set an example
to the men of patience, devotion, and determination. Naturally proud,
and with an innate contempt for the Yankees, the Southern women have
been rendered furious and desperate by the proceedings of Butler,
Milroy, Turchin, &c. They are all prepared to undergo any hardships and
misfortunes rather than submit to the rule of such people; and they use
every argument which women can employ to infuse the same spirit into
their male relations.

At noon I took leave for the present of General Hardee, and drove over
in his ambulance to Shelbyville, eight miles, in company with Bishop
Elliott and Dr Quintard. The road was abominable, and it was pouring
with rain. On arriving at General Polk's, he invited me to take up my
quarters with him during my stay with Bragg's army, which offer I
accepted with gratitude. After dinner General Polk told me that he hoped
his brethren in England did not very much condemn his present line of
conduct. He explained to me the reasons which had induced him
temporarily to forsake the cassock and return to his old profession. He
stated the extreme reluctance he had felt in taking this step; and he
said that so soon as the war was over, he should return to his episcopal
avocations, in the same way as a man, finding his house on fire, would
use every means in his power to extinguish the flames, and would then
resume his ordinary pursuits. He commanded the Confederate forces at the
battle of Perryville and Belmont, as well as his present _corps d'armée_
at the battles of Shiloh (Corinth) and Murfreesborough.

At 6.30 P.M., I called on General Bragg, the Commander-in-chief. This
officer is in appearance the least prepossessing of the Confederate
generals. He is very thin; he stoops, and has a sickly, cadaverous,
haggard appearance, rather plain features, bushy black eyebrows which
unite in a tuft on the top of his nose, and a stubby iron-grey beard;
but his eyes are bright and piercing. He has the reputation of being a
rigid disciplinarian, and of shooting freely for insubordination. I
understand he is rather unpopular on this account, and also by reason of
his occasional acerbity of manner. He was extremely civil to me, and
gave me permission to visit the outposts, or any part of his army. He
also promised to help me towards joining Morgan in Kentucky, and he
expressed his regret that a boil on his hand would prevent him from
accompanying me to the outposts. He told me that Rosecrans's position
extended about forty miles, Murfreesborough (twenty-five miles distant)
being his headquarters. The Confederate cavalry enclosed him in a
semicircle extending over a hundred miles of country. He told me that
West Tennessee, occupied by the Federals, was devoted to the Confederate
cause, whilst East Tennessee, now in possession of the Confederates,
contained numbers of people of Unionist proclivities. This very place,
Shelbyville, had been described to me by others as a "Union hole."

After my interview with General Bragg, I took a ride along the
Murfreesborough road with Colonel Richmond, A.D.C. to General Polk.
About two miles from Shelbyville, we passed some lines made to defend
the position. The trench itself was a very mild affair, but the higher
ground could be occupied by artillery in such a manner as to make the
road impassable. The thick woods were being cut down in front of the
lines for a distance of eight hundred yards, to give range. During our
ride I met Major-General Cheetham, a stout, rather rough-looking man,
but with the reputation of "a great fighter." It is said that he does
all the necessary swearing in the 1st _corps d'armée_, which General
Polk's clerical character incapacitates him from performing. Colonel
Richmond gave me the particulars of General Van Dorn's death, which
occurred about forty miles from this. His loss does not seem to be much
regretted, as it appears he was always ready to neglect his military
duties for an assignation. In the South it is not considered necessary
to put yourself on an equality with a man in such a case as Van Dorn's
by calling him out. His life belongs to the aggrieved husband, and
"shooting down" is universally esteemed the correct thing, even if it
takes place after a lapse of time, as in the affair between General Van
Dorn and Dr Peters.

[Illustration: LIEUT.-GENERAL LEONIDAS POLK.]

News arrived this evening of the capture of Helena by the Confederates,
and of the hanging of a negro regiment with forty Yankee officers. Every
one expressed sorrow for the blacks, but applauded the destruction of
their officers.[39]

I slept in General Polk's tent, he occupying a room in the house
adjoining. Before going to bed, General Polk told me an affecting story
of a poor widow in humble circumstances, whose three sons had fallen in
battle one after the other, until she had only one left, a boy of
sixteen. So distressing was her case that General Polk went himself to
comfort her. She looked steadily at him, and replied to his condolences
by the sentence, "As soon as I can get a few things together, General,
you shall have Harry too." The tears came into General Polk's eyes as he
related this episode, which he ended by saying, "_How can you subdue
such a nation as this!_"

[38] "LOSSES OF WILLIAM F. RICKS.--The Yankees did not treat us very
badly as they returned from pursuing our men beyond Leighton (at least
no more than we expected); they broke down our smokehouse door and took
seven hams, went into the kitchen and helped themselves to cooking
utensils, tin ware, &c.; searched the house, but took nothing. As they
passed up the second time we were very much annoyed by them, but not
seriously injured; they took the only two mules we had, a cart, our
milch cows, and more meat. It was on their return from this trip that
our losses were so grievous. They drove their waggons up in our yard and
loaded them with the last of our meat, all of our sugar, coffee,
molasses, flour, meal, and potatoes. I went to a Lieut.-Colonel who
seemed very busy giving orders, and asked him what he expected me to do;
they had left me no provisions at all, and I had a large family, and my
husband was away from home. His reply was short and pointed--'Starve,
and be d----d, madam.' They then proceeded to the carriage-house, took a
fine new buggy that we had never used, the cushions and harness of our
carriage, then cut the carriage up and left it. They then sent about
sixty of the slyest, smoothest-fingered rogues I have ever seen in the
Federal army (all the rogues I ever did see were in that army), into the
house to search for whisky and money, while the officers remained in the
back-yard trying to hire the servants to tell them where we had money
hid. Their search proving fruitless, they loaded themselves with our
clothing, bed-clothing, &c.; broke my dishes; stole my knives and forks;
refused the keys and broke open my trunks, closets, and other doors.
Then came the worst of all--the burners, or, as they call themselves,
the 'Destroying Angels.' They burned our gin-house and press, with 125
bales of cotton, seven cribs containing 600 bolls of corn, our logs,
stables, and six stacks of fodder, a waggon, and four negro cabins, our
lumber-room, fine spinning-machine and 500 dollars' worth of thread,
axes, hoes, scythe-blades, and all other plantation implements. Then
they came with their torches to burn our house, the last remaining
building they had left besides the negro quarter. That was too much; all
my pride, and the resolutions that I had made (and until now kept up) to
treat them with cool contempt, and never, let the worst come, humble
myself to the thievish cutthroats, forsook me at the awful thought of my
home in ruins; I must do something, and that quickly;--hardened,
thieving villains, as I knew them to be, I would make one effort for the
sake of my home. I looked over the crowd, as they huddled together to
give orders about the burning, for one face that showed a trace of
feeling, or an eye that beamed with a spark of humanity, but, finding
none, I approached the nearest group, and pointing to the children (my
sister's), I said, 'You will not burn the house, will you? you drove
those little ones from one home and took possession of it, and this is
the only sheltering place they have.' 'You may thank your God, madam,'
said one of the ruffians, 'that we have left you and your d----d brats
with heads to be sheltered.' Just then an officer galloped up--pretended
to be very much astonished and terribly beset about the conduct of his
men--cursed a good deal, and told a batch of falsehoods about not having
given orders to burn anything but corn--made divers threats that were
forgotten in utterance, and ordered his 'Angels' to fall into
line,--thereby winding up the troubles of the darkest day I have ever
seen. MRS RICKS.

"Losses before this last raid: six mules, five horses, one waggon
(four-horse), fifty-two negroes."

[39] This afterwards turned out to be untrue.

       *       *       *       *       *

_30th May_ (Saturday).--It rained hard all last night, but General
Polk's tent proved itself a good one. We have prayers both morning and
evening, by Dr Quintard, together with singing, in which General Polk
joins with much zeal. Colonel Gale, who is son-in-law and volunteer
aide-de-camp to General Polk, has placed his negro Aaron and a mare at
my disposal during my stay.

General Polk explained to me, from a plan, the battle of
Murfreesborough. He claimed that the Confederates had only 30,000
troops, including Breckenridge's division, which was not engaged on the
first day. He put the Confederate loss at 10,000 men, and that of the
Yankees at 19,000. With regard to the battle of Shiloh,[40] he said that
Beauregard's order to retire was most unfortunate, as the gunboats were
doing no real harm, and if they (the Confederates) had held on, nothing
could have saved the Federals from capture or destruction. The
misfortune of Albert Johnston's death, together with the fact of
Beauregard's illness and his not being present at that particular spot,
were the causes of this battle not being a more complete victory.

Ever since I landed in America, I had heard of the exploits of an
Englishman called Colonel St Leger Grenfell, who is now
Inspector-General of Cavalry to Bragg's army. This afternoon I made his
acquaintance, and I consider him one of the most extraordinary
characters I ever met. Although he is a member of a well-known English
family, he seems to have devoted his whole life to the exciting career
of a soldier of fortune. He told me that in early life he had served
three years in a French lancer regiment, and had risen from a private to
be a sous-lieutenant. He afterwards became a sort of consular agent at
Tangier, under old Mr Drummond Hay. Having acquired a perfect knowledge
of Arabic, he entered the service of Abd-el-Kader, and under that
renowned chief he fought the French for four years and a half. At
another time of his life he fitted out a yacht, and carried on a private
war with the Riff pirates. He was brigade-major in the Turkish
contingent during the Crimean war, and had some employment in the Indian
mutiny. He has also been engaged in war in Buenos Ayres and the South
American republics. At an early period of the present troubles he ran
the blockade and joined the Confederates. He was adjutant-general and
right-hand man to the celebrated John Morgan for eight months. Even in
this army, which abounds with foolhardy and desperate characters, he has
acquired the admiration of all ranks by his reckless daring and
gallantry in the field. Both Generals Polk and Bragg spoke to me of him
as a most excellent and useful officer, besides being a man who never
lost an opportunity of trying to throw his life away. He is just the
sort of man to succeed in this army, and among the soldiers his fame for
bravery has outweighed his unpopularity as a rigid disciplinarian. He is
the terror of all absentees, stragglers, and deserters, and of all
commanding officers who are unable to produce for his inspection the
number of horses they have been drawing forage for. He looks about
forty-five, but in reality he is fifty-six. He is rather tall, thin,
very wiry and active, with a jovial English expression of countenance;
but his eyes have a wild, roving look, which is common amongst the
Arabs. When he came to me he was dressed in an English staff blue coat,
and he had a red cavalry forage-cap, which latter, General Polk told me,
he always wore in action, so making himself more conspicuous. He talked
to me much about John Morgan, whose marriage he had tried to avert, and
of which he spoke with much sorrow. He declared that Morgan was
enervated by matrimony, and would never be the same man as he was. He
said that in one of the celebrated telegraph tappings in Kentucky,
Morgan, the operator, and himself, were seated for twelve hours on a
clay-bank during a violent storm, but the interest was so intense, that
the time passed like three hours.[41]

General Polk's son, a young artillery lieutenant, told me this evening
that "Stonewall Jackson" was a professor at the military school at
Lexington, in which he was a cadet. "Old Jack" was considered a
persevering but rather dull master, and was often made a butt of by
cheeky cadets, whose great ambition it was to irritate him, but, however
insolent they were, he never took the slightest notice of their
impertinence at the time, although he always had them punished for it
afterwards. At the outbreak of the war, he was called upon by the cadets
to make a speech, and these were his words: "Soldiers make short
speeches: _be slow to draw the sword in civil strife, but when you draw
it, throw away the scabbard._" Young Polk says that the enthusiasm
created by this speech of old Jack's was beyond description.

[40] Called Pittsburg Landing and Corinth.

[41] This was the occasion when they telegraphed such a quantity of
nonsense to the Yankee general, receiving valuable information in
return, and such necessary stores by train as Morgan was in need of.

       *       *       *       *       *

_31st May_ (Sunday).--The Bishop of Georgia preached to-day to a very
large congregation in the Presbyterian church. He is a most eloquent
preacher; and he afterwards confirmed about twenty people,--amongst
others, Colonel Gale (over forty years old), and young Polk. After
church, I called again on General Bragg, who talked to me a long time
about the battle of Murfreesborough (in which he commanded). He said
that he retained possession of the ground he had won for three days and
a half, and only retired on account of the exhaustion of his troops, and
after carrying off over 6000 prisoners, much cannon, and other trophies.
He allowed that Rosecrans had displayed much firmness, and was "_the
only man in the Yankee army who was not badly beaten_." He showed me, on
a plan, the exact position of the two armies, and also the field of
operations of the renowned guerillas, Morgan and Forrest.

Colonel Grenfell called again, and I arranged to visit the outposts
with him on Tuesday. He spoke to me in high terms of Bragg, Polk,
Hardee, and Cleburne; but he described some of the others as "political"
generals, and others as good fighters, but illiterate and somewhat
addicted to liquor. He deplored the effect of politics upon military
affairs as very injurious in the Confederate army, though not so bad as
it is in the Northern.

At 2 P.M. I travelled in the cars to Wartrace in company with General
Bragg and the Bishop of Georgia. We were put into a baggage-car, and the
General and the Bishop were the only persons provided with seats.
Although the distance from Shelbyville to Wartrace is only eight miles,
we were one hour and ten minutes in effecting the _trajet_, in such a
miserable and dangerous state were the rails. On arriving at Wartrace we
were entertained by Major-General Cleburne. This officer gave me his
history. He is the son of a doctor at or near Ballincolig. At the age of
seventeen he ran away from home, and enlisted in Her Majesty's 41st
Regiment of foot, in which he served three years as private and
corporal. He then bought his discharge, and emigrated to Arkansas, where
he studied law, and, eschewing politics, he got a good practice as a
lawyer. At the outbreak of the war he was elected captain of his
company, then colonel of his regiment, and has since, by his
distinguished services in all the western campaigns, been appointed to
the command of a division (10,000 men)--the highest military rank which
has been attained by a foreigner in the Confederate service. He told me
that he ascribed his advancement mainly to the useful lessons which he
had learnt in the ranks of the British army, and he pointed with a laugh
to his general's white facings, which he said his 41st experience
enabled him to keep cleaner than any other Confederate general.[42] He
is now thirty-five years of age; but, his hair having turned grey, he
looks older. Generals Bragg and Hardee both spoke to me of him in terms
of the highest praise, and said that he had risen entirely by his own
personal merit.

At 5 P.M. I was present at a great open-air preaching at General Wood's
camp. Bishop Elliott preached most admirably to a congregation composed
of nearly 3000 soldiers, who listened to him with the most profound
attention. Generals Bragg, Polk, Hardee, Withers, Cleburne, and endless
brigadiers, were also present. It is impossible to exaggerate the
respect paid by all ranks of this army to Bishop Elliott; and although
most of the officers are Episcopalians, the majority of the soldiers are
Methodists, Baptists, &c. Bishop Elliott afterwards explained to me that
the reason most of the people had become dissenters was because there
had been no bishops in America during the "British dominion;" and all
the clergy having been appointed from England, had almost without
exception stuck by the King in the Revolution, and had had their livings
forfeited.

I dined and slept at General Hardee's, but spent the evening at Mrs
----'s, where I heard renewed philippics directed by the ladies against
the Yankees.

I find that it is a great mistake to suppose that the Press is gagged in
the South, as I constantly see the most violent attacks upon the
President--upon the different generals and their measures. To-day I
heard the officers complaining bitterly of the 'Chattanooga Rebel,' for
publishing an account of Breckenridge's departure from this army to
reinforce Johnston in Mississippi, and thus giving early intelligence to
the enemy.

[42] The 41st Regiment wears white facings; so do the generals in the
Confederate army. M. de Polignac has recently been appointed a
brigadier: he and Cleburne are the only two generals amongst the
Confederates who are foreigners.

       *       *       *       *       *

_1st June_ (Monday).--We all went to a review of General Liddell's
brigade at Bellbuckle, a distance of six miles. There were three
carriages full of ladies, and I rode an excellent horse, the gift of
General John Morgan to General Hardee. The weather and the scenery were
delightful. General Hardee asked me particularly whether Mr Mason had
been kindly received in England. I replied that I thought he had, by
private individuals. I have often found the Southerners rather touchy on
this point.

General Liddell's brigade was composed of Arkansas troops--five very
weak regiments which had suffered severely in the different battles, and
they cannot be easily recruited on account of the blockade of the
Mississippi. The men were good-sized, healthy, and well clothed, but
without any attempt at uniformity in colour or cut; but nearly all were
dressed either in grey or brown coats and felt hats. I was told that
even if a regiment was clothed in proper uniform by the Government, it
would become parti-coloured again in a week, as the soldiers preferred
wearing the coarse homespun jackets and trousers made by their mothers
and sisters at home. The Generals very wisely allow them to please
themselves in this respect, and insist only upon their arms and
accoutrements being kept in proper order. Most of the officers were
dressed in uniform which is neat and serviceable--viz., a bluish-grey
frock-coat of a colour similar to Austrian yagers. The infantry wear
blue facings, the artillery red, the doctors black, the staff white, and
the cavalry yellow; so it is impossible to mistake the branch of the
service to which an officer belongs--nor is it possible to mistake his
rank. A second lieutenant, first lieutenant, and captain, wear
respectively one, two, and three bars on the collar. A major,
lieutenant-colonel, and colonel, wear one, two, and three stars on the
collar.

Before the marching past of the brigade, many of the soldiers had taken
off their coats and marched past the General in their shirt-sleeves, on
account of the warmth. Most of them were armed with Enfield rifles
captured from the enemy. Many, however, had lost or thrown away their
bayonets, which they don't appear to value properly, as they assert that
they have never met any Yankees who would wait for that weapon. I
expressed a desire to see them form square, but it appeared they were
"not drilled to such a manoeuvre" (except square two deep). They said
the country did not admit of cavalry charges, even if the Yankee cavalry
had stomach to attempt it.

Each regiment carried a "battle-flag," blue, with a white border, on
which were inscribed the names "Belmont," "Shiloh," "Perryville,"
"Richmond, Ky.," and "Murfreesborough." They drilled tolerably well, and
an advance in line was remarkably good; but General Liddell had invented
several dodges of his own, for which he was reproved by General Hardee.

The review being over, the troops were harangued by Bishop Elliott in
an excellent address, partly religious, partly patriotic. He was
followed by a congress man of vulgar appearance, named Hanley, from
Arkansas, who delivered himself of a long and uninteresting political
oration, and ended by announcing himself as a candidate for re-election.
This speech seemed to me (and to others) particularly ill-timed, out of
place, and ridiculous, addressed as it was to soldiers in front of the
enemy. But this was one of the results of universal suffrage. The
soldiers afterwards wanted General Hardee to say something, but he
declined. I imagine that the discipline in this army is the strictest in
the Confederacy, and that the men are much better marchers than those I
saw in Mississippi.

A soldier was shot in Wartrace this afternoon. We heard the volley just
as we left in the cars for Shelbyville. His crime was desertion to the
enemy; and as the prisoner's brigade was at Tullahoma (twenty miles
off), he was executed without ceremony by the Provost guard. Spies are
hung every now and then; but General Bragg told me it was almost
impossible for either side to stop the practice.

Bishop Elliott, Dr Quintard, and myself got back to General Polk's
quarters at 5 P.M., where I was introduced to a Colonel Styles, who was
formerly United States minister at Vienna. In the evening I made the
acquaintance of General Wheeler, Van Dorn's successor in the command of
the cavalry of this army, which is over 24,000 strong. He is a very
little man, only twenty-six years of age, and was dressed in a coat much
too big for him. He made his reputation by protecting the retreat of the
army through Kentucky last year. He was a graduate of West Point, and
seems a remarkably zealous officer, besides being very modest and
unassuming in his manners.

General Polk told me that, notwithstanding the departure of
Breckenridge, this army is now much stronger than it was at the time of
the battle of Murfreesborough. I think that probably 45,000 infantry and
artillery could be brought together immediately for a battle.

       *       *       *       *       *

_2d June_ (Tuesday).--Colonel Grenfell and I rode to the outposts,
starting on the road to Murfreesborough at 6 A.M. It rained hard nearly
all day. He explained to me the method of fighting adopted by the
Western cavalry, which he said was admirably adapted for this country;
but he denied that they could, under any circumstances, stand a fair
charge of regular cavalry in the open. Their system is to dismount and
leave their horses in some secure place. One man is placed in charge of
his own and three other horses, whilst the remainder act as infantry
skirmishers in the dense woods and broken country, making a tremendous
row, and deceiving the enemy as to their numbers, and as to their
character as infantry or cavalry. In this manner Morgan, assisted by two
small guns, called bulldogs, attacked the Yankees with success in
towns, forts, stockades, and steamboats; and by the same system, Wheeler
and Wharton kept a large pursuing army in check for twenty-seven days,
retreating and fighting every day, and deluding the enemy with the idea
that they were being resisted by a strong force composed of all three
branches of the service.

Colonel Grenfell told me that the only way in which an officer could
acquire influence over the Confederate soldiers was by his personal
conduct under fire. They hold a man in great esteem who in action sets
them an example of contempt for danger; but they think nothing of an
officer who is not in the habit of _leading_ them; in fact, such a man
could not possibly retain his position. Colonel Grenfell's expression
was, "Every atom of authority has to be purchased by a drop of your
blood." He told me he was in desperate hot water with the civil
authorities of the State, who accuse him of illegally impressing and
appropriating horses, and also of conniving at the escape of a negro
from his lawful owner, and he said that the military authorities were
afraid or unable to give him proper protection.

For the first nine miles our road was quite straight and hilly, with a
thick wood on either side. We then reached a pass in the hills called
Guy's Gap, which, from the position of the hills, is very strong, and
could be held by a small force. The range of hills extends as far as
Wartrace, but I understand the position could be turned on the left.
About two miles beyond Guy's Gap were the headquarters of General
Martin, the officer who commands the brigade of cavalry stationed in the
neighbourhood. General Martin showed me the letter sent by the Yankees a
few days ago by flag of truce with Mr Vallandigham. This letter was
curiously worded, and ended, as far as I can remember, with this
expression: "Mr Vallandigham is therefore handed over to the respectful
attention of the Confederate authorities." General Martin told me that
skirmishing and bushwhacking went on nearly every day, and that ten days
ago the enemy's cavalry by a bold dash had captured a field-piece close
to his own quarters. It was, however, retaken, and its captors were
killed.

One of General Martin's staff officers conducted us to the bivouac of
Colonel Webb (three miles further along the road), who commanded the
regiment on outpost duty there--51st Alabama Cavalry. This Colonel Webb
was a lawyer by profession, and seemed a capital fellow; and he insisted
on riding with us to the videttes in spite of the rain, and he also
desired his regiment to turn out for us by the time we returned. The
extreme outposts were about two miles beyond Colonel Webb's post, and
about sixteen miles from Shelbyville. The neutral ground extended for
about three miles. We rode along it as far as it was safe to do so, and
just came within sight of the Yankee videttes. The Confederate videttes
were at an interval of from 300 to 400 yards of each other. Colonel
Webb's regiment was in charge of two miles of the front; and, in a
similar manner, the chain of videttes was extended by other corps right
and left for more than eighty miles. Scouts are continually sent forward
by both sides to collect information. Rival scouts and pickets
invariably fire on one another whenever they meet; and Colonel Webb
good-naturedly offered, if I was particularly anxious to see their
customs and habits, to send forward a few men and have a little fight. I
thanked him much for his kind offer, but begged he wouldn't trouble
himself so far on my account. He showed me the house where Vallandigham
had been "dumped down" between the outposts when they refused to receive
him by flag of truce.

The woods on both sides of the road showed many signs of the conflicts
which are of daily occurrence. Most of the houses by the roadside had
been destroyed; but one plucky old lady had steadfastly refused to turn
out, although her house was constantly an object of contention, and
showed many marks of bullets and shell. Ninety-seven men were employed
every day in Colonel Webb's regiment to patrol the front. The remainder
of the 51st Alabama were mounted and drawn up to receive Colonel
Grenfell on our return from the outposts. They were uniformly armed with
long rifles and revolvers, but without sabres, and they were a fine body
of young men. Their horses were in much better condition than might have
been expected, considering the scanty food and hard duty they had had to
put up with for the last five months, without shelter of any kind,
except the trees. Colonel Grenfell told me they were a very fair
specimen of the immense number of cavalry with Bragg's army. I got back
to Shelbyville at 4.30 P.M., just in time to be present at an
interesting ceremony peculiar to America. This was a baptism at the
Episcopal Church. The ceremony was performed in an impressive manner by
Bishop Elliott, and the person baptised was no less than the
commander-in-chief of the army. The Bishop took the general's hand in
his own (the latter kneeling in front of the font), and said, "Braxton,
if thou hast not already been baptised, I baptise thee," &c. Immediately
afterwards he confirmed General Bragg, who then shook hands with General
Polk, the officers of their respective staffs, and myself, who were the
only spectators.

The soldiers on sentry at General Polk's quarters this afternoon were
deficient both of shoes and stockings. These were the first barefooted
soldiers I had as yet seen in the Confederacy.

I had intended to have left Shelbyville to-morrow with Bishop Elliott;
but as I was informed that a reconnaissance in force was arranged for
to-morrow, I accepted General Polk's kind offer of farther hospitality
for a couple of days more. Four of Polk's brigades with artillery move
to the front to-morrow, and General Hardee is also to push forward from
Wartrace. The object of this movement is to ascertain the enemy's
strength at Murfreesborough, as rumour asserts that Rosecrans is
strengthening Grant in Mississippi, which General Bragg is not disposed
to allow with impunity. The weather is now almost chilly.

       *       *       *       *       *

_3d June_ (Wednesday).--Bishop Elliott left for Savannah at 6 A.M., in
a downpour of rain, which continued nearly all day. Grenfell came to see
me this morning in a towering rage. He had been arrested in his bed by
the civil power on a charge of horse-stealing, and conniving at the
escape of a negro from his master. General Bragg himself had stood bail
for him, but Grenfell was naturally furious at the indignity. But, even
according to his own account, he seems to have acted indiscreetly in the
affair of the negro, and he will have to appear before the civil court
next October. General Polk and his officers were all much vexed at the
occurrence, which, however, is an extraordinary and convincing proof
that the military had not superseded the civil power in the Southern
States; for here was an important officer arrested, in spite of the
commander-in-chief, when in the execution of his office before the
enemy. By standing bail, General Bragg gave a most positive proof that
he exonerated Grenfell from any malpractices.[43]

In the evening, after dark, General Polk drew my attention to the manner
in which the signal beacons were worked. One light was stationary on the
ground, whilst another was moved backwards and forwards over it. They
gave us intelligence that General Hardee had pushed the enemy to within
five miles of Murfreesborough, after heavy skirmishing all day.

I got out of General Polk the story of his celebrated adventure with
the ---- Indiana (Northern) regiment, which resulted in the almost total
destruction of that corps. I had often during my travels heard officers
and soldiers talking of this extraordinary feat of the "Bishop's." The
modest yet graphic manner in which General Polk related this wonderful
instance of coolness and bravery was extremely interesting, and I now
repeat it, as nearly as I can, in his own words.

"Well, sir, it was at the battle of Perryville, late in the evening--in
fact, it was almost dark when Liddell's Brigade came into action.
Shortly after its arrival I observed a body of men, whom I believed to
be Confederates, standing at an angle to this brigade, and firing
obliquely at the newly arrived troops. I said, 'Dear me, this is very
sad, and must be stopped;' so I turned round, but could find none of my
young men, who were absent on different messages; so I determined to
ride myself and settle the matter. Having cantered up to the colonel of
the regiment which was firing, I asked him in angry tones what he meant
by shooting his own friends, and I desired him to cease doing so at
once. He answered with surprise, 'I don't think there can be any mistake
about it; I am sure they are the enemy.' 'Enemy!' I said; 'why, I have
only just left them myself. Cease firing, sir; what is your name, sir?'
'_My name is Colonel ----, of the ---- Indiana; and pray, sir, who are
you?_'

"Then for the first time I saw, to my astonishment, that he was a
Yankee, and that I was in rear of a regiment of Yankees. Well, I saw
that there was no hope but to brazen it out; my dark blouse and the
increasing obscurity befriended me, so I approached quite close to him
and shook my fist in his face, saying, 'I'll soon show you who I am,
sir; cease firing, sir, at once.' I then turned my horse and cantered
slowly down the line, shouting in an authoritative manner to the Yankees
to cease firing; at the same time I experienced a disagreeable
sensation, like screwing up my back, and calculating how many bullets
would be between my shoulders every moment. I was afraid to increase my
pace until I got to a small copse, when I put the spurs in and galloped
back to my men. I immediately went up to the nearest colonel, and said
to him, 'Colonel, I have reconnoitred those fellows pretty closely--and
I find there is no mistake who they are; you may get up and go at them.'
And I assure you, sir, that the slaughter of that Indiana regiment was
the greatest I have ever seen in the war."[45]

It is evident to me that a certain degree of jealous feeling exists
between the Tennesseean and Virginian armies. This one claims to have
had harder fighting than the Virginian army, and to have been opposed to
the best troops and best generals of the North.

The Southerners generally appear to estimate highest the north-western
Federal troops, which compose in a great degree the armies of Grant and
Rosecrans; they come from the states of Ohio, Iowa, Indiana, &c. The
Irish Federals are also respected for their fighting qualities; whilst
the genuine Yankees and Germans (Dutch) are not much esteemed.

I have been agreeably disappointed in the climate of Tennessee, which
appears quite temperate to what I had expected.

[43] I cut this out of a Charleston paper some days after I had parted
from Colonel Grenfell: Colonel Grenfell was only obeying General Bragg's
orders in depriving the soldier of his horse, and temporarily of his
money:--

"COLONEL ST LEGER GRENFELL.--The Western army correspondent of the
'Mobile Register' writes as follows:--The famous Colonel St Leger
Grenfell, who served with Morgan last summer, and since that time has
been Assistant Inspector-General of General Bragg, was arrested a few
days since by the civil authorities. The sheriff and his officers called
upon the bold Englishman before he had arisen in the morning, and after
the latter had performed his toilet duties he buckled on his belt and
trusty pistols. The officer of the law remonstrated, and the Englisher
damned, and a struggle of half an hour ensued, in which the stout
Britisher made a powerful resistance, but, by overpowering force, was at
last placed _hors de combat_ and disarmed.[44] The charges were, that he
retained in his possession the slave of a Confederate citizen, and
refused to deliver him or her up; that meeting a soldier coming to the
army leading a horse, he accused him of being a deserter, dismounted
him, took his horses and equipments and _money_, stating that deserters
were not worthy to have either horses or money, and sent the owner
thereof off where he would not be heard of again. The result of the
affair was, that Colonel Grenfell, whether guilty or not guilty,
delivered up the negro, horses, and money to the civil authorities. If
the charges against him are proven true, then there is no doubt that the
course of General Bragg will be to dismiss him from his staff; but if,
on the contrary, malicious slanders are defaming this ally, he is
Hercules enough and brave enough to punish them. His bravery and
gallantry were conspicuous throughout the Kentucky campaign, and it is
hoped that this late tarnish on his fame will be removed; or if it be
not, that he will."

[44] This is all nonsense--the myrmidons of the law took very good care
to pounce upon Colonel Grenfell when he was in bed and asleep.

[45] If these lines should ever meet the eyes of General Polk, I hope he
will forgive me if I have made any error in recording his adventure.

       *       *       *       *       *

_4th June_ (Thursday).--Colonel Richmond rode with me to the outposts,
in order to be present at the reconnaissance which was being conducted
under the command of General Cheetham. We reached the field of
operations at 2 P.M., and found that Martin's cavalry (dismounted) had
advanced upon the enemy about three miles, and, after some brisk
skirmishing, had driven in his outposts. The enemy showed about 2000
infantry, strongly posted, his guns commanding the turnpike road. The
Confederate infantry was concealed in the woods, about a mile in rear of
the dismounted cavalry.

This being the position of affairs, Colonel Richmond and I rode along
the road so far as it was safe to do so. We then dismounted, and sneaked
on in the wood alongside the road until we got to within 800 yards of
the Yankees, whom we then reconnoitred leisurely with our glasses. We
could only count about seventy infantry soldiers, with one field-piece
in the wood at an angle of the road, and we saw several staff officers
galloping about with orders. Whilst we were thus engaged, some heavy
firing and loud cheering suddenly commenced in the woods on our left;
so, fearing to be outflanked, we remounted and rode back to an open
space, about 600 yards to the rear, where we found General Martin giving
orders for the withdrawal of the cavalry horses in the front, and the
retreat of the skirmishers.

It was very curious to see three hundred horses suddenly emerge from the
wood just in front of us, where they had been hidden--one man to every
four horses, riding one and leading the other three, which were tied
together by the heads. In this order I saw them cross a cotton-field at
a smart trot, and take up a more secure position; two or three men
cantered about in the rear, flanking up the led horses. They were
shortly afterwards followed by the men of the regiment, retreating in
skirmishing order under Colonel Webb, and they lined a fence parallel to
us. The same thing went on on our right.

As the firing on our left still continued, my friends were in great
hopes that the Yankees might be inveigled on to follow the retreating
skirmishers until they fell in with the two infantry brigades, which
were lying in ambush for them; and it was arranged, in that case, that
some mounted Confederates should then get in their rear, and so capture
a good number; but this simple and ingenious device was frustrated by
the sulkiness of the enemy, who now stubbornly refused to advance any
further.

The way in which the horses were managed was very pretty, and seemed to
answer admirably for this sort of skirmishing. They were never far from
the men, who could mount and be off to another part of the field with
rapidity, or retire to take up another position, or act as cavalry as
the case might require. Both the superior officers and the men behaved
with the most complete coolness; and, whilst we were waiting in hopes of
a Yankee advance, I heard the soldiers remarking that they "didn't like
being done out of their good boots"--one of the principal objects in
killing a Yankee being apparently to get hold of his valuable boots.

A tremendous row went on in the woods during this bushwhacking, and the
trees got knocked about in all directions by shell; but I imagine that
the actual slaughter in these skirmishes is very small, unless they get
fairly at one another in the open cultivated spaces between the woods. I
did not see or hear of anybody being killed to-day, although there were
a few wounded and some horses killed. Colonel Richmond and Colonel Webb
were much disappointed that the inactivity of the enemy prevented my
seeing the skirmish assume larger proportions, and General Cheetham said
to me, "We should be very happy to see you, Colonel, when we are in our
regular way of doing business."

After waiting in vain until 5 P.M., and seeing no signs of anything more
taking place, Colonel Richmond and I cantered back to Shelbyville. We
were accompanied by a detachment of General Polk's body-guard, which was
composed of young men of good position in New Orleans. Most of them
spoke in the French language, and nearly all had slaves in the field
with them, although they ranked only as private soldiers, and had to
perform the onerous duties of orderlies (or couriers, as they are
called). On our way back we heard heavy firing on our left, from the
direction in which General Withers was conducting his share of the
reconnaissance with two other infantry brigades.

After dark General Polk got a message from Cheetham, to say that the
enemy had after all advanced in heavy force about 6.15 P.M., and obliged
him to retire to Guy's Gap. We also heard that General Cleburne, who had
advanced from Wartrace, had had his horse shot under him. The object of
the reconnaissance seemed, therefore, to have been attained, for
apparently the enemy was still in strong force at Murfreesborough, and
manifested no intention of yielding it without a struggle.

I took leave of General Polk before I turned in. His kindness and
hospitality have exceeded anything I could have expected. I shall always
feel grateful to him on this account, and I shall never think of him
without admiration for his character as a sincere patriot, a gallant
soldier, and a perfect gentleman. His aides-de-camp, Colonels Richmond
and Yeatman, are also excellent types of the higher class of Southerner.
Highly educated, wealthy, and prosperous before the war, they have
abandoned all for their country. They, and all other Southern gentlemen
of the same rank, are proud of their descent from Englishmen. They glory
in speaking English as we do, and that their manners and feelings
resemble those of the upper classes in the old country. No
staff-officers could perform their duties with more zeal and efficiency
than these gentlemen, although they were not educated as soldiers.

       *       *       *       *       *

_5th June_ (Friday).--I left Shelbyville at 6 A.M., after having been
shaken hands with affectionately by "Aaron," and arrived at Chattanooga
at 4 P.M. As I was thus far under the protection of Lieutenant
Donnelson, of General Polk's staff, I made this journey under more
agreeable auspices than the last time. The scenery was really quite
beautiful.

East Tennessee is said to contain many people who are more favourable to
the North than to the South, and its inhabitants are now being
conscripted by the Confederates; but they sometimes object to this
operation, and, taking to the hills and woods, commence bushwhacking
there.

I left Chattanooga for Atlanta at 4.30 P.M. The train was much crowded
with wounded and sick soldiers returning on leave to their homes. A
goodish-looking woman was pointed out to me in the cars as having served
as a private soldier in the battles of Perryville and Murfreesborough.
Several men in my car had served with her in a Louisianian regiment, and
they said she had been turned out a short time since for her bad and
immoral conduct. They told me that her sex was notorious to all the
regiment, but no notice had been taken of it so long as she conducted
herself properly. They also said that she was not the only
representative of the female sex in the ranks. When I saw her she wore a
soldier's hat and coat, but had resumed her petticoats.

       *       *       *       *       *

_6th June_ (Saturday).--Arrived at Atlanta at 3 A.M., and took three
hours' sleep at the Trouthouse hotel. After breakfasting, I started
again for Augusta at 7 A.M. (174 miles); but the train had not proceeded
ten miles before it was brought up by an obstruction, in the shape of a
broken-down freight train, one of whose cars was completely smashed.
This delayed us for about an hour, but we made up for it afterwards, and
arrived at Augusta at 5.15 P.M.

The country through Georgia is undulating, well cultivated, and
moderately covered with trees; and this part of the Confederacy has as
yet suffered but little from the war. At some of the stations provisions
for the soldiers were brought into the cars by ladies, and distributed
gratis. When I refused on the ground of not being a soldier, these
ladies looked at me with great suspicion, mingled with contempt, and as
their looks evidently expressed the words, "Then why are you not a
soldier?" I was obliged to explain to them who I was, and show them
General Bragg's pass, which astonished them not a little. I was told
that Georgia was the only state in which soldiers were still so
liberally treated--they have become so very common everywhere else. On
reaching Augusta, I put up at the Planter's-house hotel, which seemed
very luxurious to me after so many hours of the cars. But the Augusta
climate is evidently much hotter than Tennessee.

       *       *       *       *       *

_7th June_ (Sunday).--Augusta is a city of 20,000 inhabitants; but its
streets being extremely wide, and its houses low, it covers a vast
space. No place that I have seen in the Southern States shows so little
traces of the war, and it formed a delightful contrast to the war-worn,
poverty-stricken, dried-up towns I had lately visited. I went to the
Episcopal church, and might almost have fancied myself in England: the
ceremonies were exactly the same, and the church was full of
well-dressed people.

At 2 P.M. I dined at the house of Mr Carmichael, son-in-law to Bishop
Elliott, who told me there were 2000 volunteers in Augusta, regularly
drilled and prepared to resist raids. These men were exempted from the
conscription, either on account of their age, nationality, or other
cause--or had purchased substitutes. At 3 P.M. Mr Carmichael sent me in
his buggy to call on Colonel Rains, the superintendent of the Government
works here. My principal object in stopping at Augusta was to visit the
powder manufactory and arsenal; but, to my disappointment, I discovered
that the present wants of the State did not render it necessary to keep
these establishments open on Sundays.

I had a long and most interesting conversation with Colonel Rains, who
is a very clever, highly-educated, and agreeable officer. He was brought
up at West Point, and after a short service in the United States army,
he became Professor of Chemistry at the Military College. He was
afterwards much engaged in the manufacture of machinery in the Northern
States. At the commencement of this war, with his usual perspicacity,
President Davis selected Colonel Rains as the most competent person to
build and to work the Government factories at Augusta, giving him _carte
blanche_ to act as he thought best; and the result has proved the wisdom
of the President's choice. Colonel Rains told me that at the beginning
of the troubles, scarcely a grain of gunpowder was manufactured in the
whole of the Southern States. The Augusta powder-mills and arsenal were
then commenced, and _no less than 7000 lb. of powder are now made every
day_ in the powder manufactory. The cost to the Government of making the
powder is only four cents a pound. The saltpetre (nine-tenths of which
runs the blockade from England) cost formerly seventy-five cents, but
has latterly been more expensive. In the construction of the
powder-mills, Colonel Rains told me he had been much indebted to a
pamphlet by Major Bradley of Waltham Abbey.

At the cannon foundry, one Napoleon 12-pounder is turned out every two
days; but it is hoped very soon that one of these guns may be finished
daily. The guns are made of a metal recently invented by the Austrians,
and recommended to the Confederate Government by Mr Mason. They are
tested by a charge of ten pounds of powder, and by loading them to the
muzzle with bolts. Two hundred excellent mechanics are exempted from the
conscription, to be employed at the mills. The wonderful speed with
which these works have been constructed, their great success, and their
immense national value, are convincing proofs of the determined energy
of the Southern character, now that it has been roused; and also of the
zeal and skill of Colonel Rains. He told me that Augusta had been
selected as a site for these works on account of its remoteness from the
probable seats of war, of its central position, and of its great
facilities of transport; for this city can boast of a navigable river
and a canal, besides being situated on a central railroad. Colonel Rains
said, that although the Southerners had certainly been hard up for
gunpowder at the early part of the war, they were still harder up for
percussion caps. An immense number (I forget how many) of these are now
made daily in the Government factory at Atlanta.

I left Augusta at 7 P.M. by train for Charleston. My car was much
crowded with Yankee prisoners.

       *       *       *       *       *

_8th June_ (Monday).--I arrived at Charleston at 5 A.M., and drove at
once in an omnibus to the Charleston hotel. At nine o'clock I called at
General Beauregard's office, but, to my disappointment, I found that he
was absent on a tour of inspection in Florida. He is, however, expected
to return in two or three days.

I then called on General Ripley, who commands the garrison and forts of
Charleston. He is a jovial character, very fond of the good things of
this life; but it is said that he never allows this propensity to
interfere with his military duties, in the performance of which he
displays both zeal and talent. He has the reputation of being an
excellent artillery officer, and although by birth a Northerner, he is a
red-hot and indefatigable rebel. I believe he wrote a book about the
Mexican war, and after leaving the old army, he was a good deal in
England, connected with the small-arms factory at Enfield, and other
enterprises of the same sort. Nearly all the credit of the efficiency of
the Charleston fortifications is due to him. And notwithstanding his
Northern birth and occasional rollicking habits, he is generally
popular.

I then called on Mr Robertson, a merchant, for whom I had brought a
letter of introduction from England. This old gentleman took me for a
drive in his buggy at 6 P.M. It appears that at this time of year the
country outside the city is quite pestilential, for when we reached the
open, Mr Robertson pointed to a detached house and said, "Now, I am as
fond of money as any Jew, yet I wouldn't sleep in that house for one
night if you gave it to me for doing so."

I had intended to have visited Mr Blake, an English gentleman for whom I
had a letter, on his Combahee plantation, but Mr Robertson implored me
to abandon this idea. Mr Robertson was full of the disasters which had
resulted from a recent Yankee raid of the Combahee river. It appears
that a vast amount of property had been destroyed and slaves carried
off. This morning I saw a poor old planter in Mr Robertson's office, who
had been suddenly and totally ruined by this raid. The raiders consisted
principally of Northern armed negroes, and as they met with no Southern
whites to resist them, they were able to effect their depredations with
total impunity. It seems that a good deal of the land about Charleston
belongs either to Blakes or Heywards. Mr Blake lost thirty negroes in
the last raid, but he has lost since the beginning of the war about 150.

Mr Robertson afterwards took me to see Mrs ----, who is Mr Walter
Blake's daughter. To me, who had roughed it for ten weeks to such an
extent, Charleston appeared most comfortable and luxurious. But its
inhabitants must, to say the least, be suffering great inconvenience.
The lighting and paving of the city had gone to the bad completely. Most
of the shops were shut up. Those that were open contained but very few
goods, and those were at famine prices. I tried to buy a black scarf,
but I couldn't find such an article in all Charleston.

An immense amount of speculation in blockade-running was going on, and
a great deal of business is evidently done in buying and selling
negroes, for the papers are full of advertisements of slave auctions.
That portion of the city destroyed by the great fire presents the
appearance of a vast wilderness in the very centre of the town, no
attempt having been made towards rebuilding it; this desert space looks
like the Pompeian ruins, and extends, Mr Robertson says, for a mile in
length by half a mile in width. Nearly all the distance between the
Mills House hotel and Charleston hotel is in this desolate state. The
fire began quite by accident, but the violent wind which suddenly arose
rendered all attempts to stop the flames abortive. The deserted state of
the wharves is melancholy--the huge placards announcing lines of
steamers to New York, New Orleans, and to different parts of the world,
still remain, and give one an idea of what a busy scene they used to be.
The people, however, all seem happy, contented, and determined. Both the
great hotels are crowded; and well dressed, handsome ladies are
plentiful; the fare is good, and the charge at the Charleston hotel is
eight dollars a day.

       *       *       *       *       *

_9th June_ (Tuesday).--A Captain Feilden came to call upon me at 9 A.M.
He is an Englishman, and formerly served in the 42d Highlanders. He is
now in the Confederate army, and is on the staff of General Beauregard's
army. I remember his brother quite well at Sandhurst. Captain Feilden
accompanied me to General Ripley's office, and at 12 o'clock the latter
officer took us in his boat to inspect Fort Sumter. Our party consisted
of an invalid General Davis, a congress man named Nutt, Captain Feilden,
the general, and myself. We reached Fort Sumter after a pull of about
three-quarters of an hour.[46] This now celebrated fort is a pentagonal
work built of red brick. It has two tiers of casemates, besides a heavy
barbette battery. Its walls are twelve feet thick at the piers, and six
feet thick at the embrasures. It rises sheer out of the water, and is
apparently situated in the centre of the bay, but on its side towards
James Island the water is extremely shallow. It mounts sixty-eight guns,
of a motley but efficient description. Ten-inch columbiads predominate,
and are perhaps the most useful. They weigh 14,000 lb. (125 cwt.), throw
a solid shot weighing 128 lb., and are made to traverse with the
greatest ease by means of Yates's system of cogwheels. There are also
eight-inch columbiads, rifled forty-two pounders, and Brook guns to
throw flat-headed projectiles (General Ripley told me that these Brook
guns, about which so much is said, differ but little from the Blakely
cannon); also there are parrot guns and Dahlgrens; in fact, a general
assortment of every species of ordnance except Whitworths and
Armstrongs. But the best gun in the fort is a fine new eleven-inch gun,
which had just been fished up from the wreck of the Keokuk; the sister
gun from the same wreck is at ----. The garrison consists of 350
enlisted soldiers under Colonel Rhett. They are called Confederate
States regulars, and certainly they saluted in a more soldierlike way
than the ordinary volunteers. A great proportion of them are foreigners.

Fort Sumter now shows but little signs of the battering it underwent
from the ironclads eight weeks ago. The two faces exposed to fire have
been patched up so that large pieces of masonry have a newer appearance
than the mass of the building. The guns have been removed from the
casemates on the eastern face, and the lower tier of casemates has been
filled up with earth to give extra strength, and prevent the balls from
coming right through into the interior of the work, which happened at
the last attack. There is consequently a deep hole in the parade inside
Fort Sumter, from which the earth had been taken to fill up these
casemates. The angles of Sumter are being strengthened outside by stone
buttresses. Some of the cheeks of the upper embrasures have been faced
with blocks of iron three feet long, eight inches thick, and twelve
inches wide. I saw the effect of a heavy shot on one of these blocks
which had been knocked right away, and had fallen in two pieces on the
rocks below, but it had certainly saved the embrasure from further
injury that time. I saw some solid fifteen-inch shot which had been
fired by the enemy: they weigh 425 lb. I was told that several
fifteen-inch shell had stuck in the walls and burst there, tearing away
great flakes of masonry, and making holes two feet deep at the extreme.
None of the ironclads would approach nearer than nine hundred yards, and
the Keokuk, which was the only one that came thus close, got out of
order in five minutes, and was completely disabled in a quarter of an
hour. She sank on the following morning. Solid ten-inch shot and
seven-inch flat-heads were used upon her. Ripley said he would give a
great deal for some more eleven-inch guns, but he can't get them except
by such chances as the Keokuk.

The fight only lasted two hours and twenty-five minutes. Fort Sumter
bore nearly the whole weight of the attack, assisted in a slight degree
by Moultrie. Only one man was killed, which was caused by the fall of
the flagstaff. The Confederates were unable to believe until some time
afterwards the real amount of the damage they had inflicted; nor did
they discover until next day that the affair was a serious attack, and
not a reconnaissance. General Ripley spoke with the greatest confidence
of being able to repulse any other attack of the same sort.

Colonel Rhett, the commandant, entertained us with luncheon in one of
the casemates. He is a handsome and agreeable man, besides being a
zealous officer. He told me that one of the most efficient of his
subordinates was Captain Mitchell, son to the so-called Irish patriot,
who is editor of one of the Richmond newspapers.

From the summit of Fort Sumter a good general view is obtained of the
harbour, and of the fortifications commanding the approach to
Charleston.

Castle Pinckney and Fort Sumter are two old masonry works built on
islands--Pinckney being much closer to the city than Sumter. Between
them is Fort Ripley, which mounts ---- heavy guns.

Moultrieville, with its numerous forts, called Battery Bee, Fort
Moultrie, Fort Beauregard, &c., is on Sullivan's Island, one mile
distant from Fort Sumter. There are excellent arrangements of ----, and
other contrivances, to foul the screw of a vessel between Sumter and
Moultrie.

On the other side of Fort Sumter is Fort Johnson on James Island, Fort
Cummins Point, and Fort Wagner on Morris Island. In fact, both sides of
the harbour for several miles appear to bristle with forts mounting
heavy guns.

The bar, beyond which we counted thirteen blockaders, is nine miles from
the city. Sumter is three and a half miles from the city. Two or three
thousand Yankees are now supposed to be on Folly Island, which is next
beyond Morris Island, and in a day or two they are to be shelled from
the Confederate batteries on Morris Island. The new Confederate flag,
which bears a strong resemblance to the British white ensign, was flying
from most of the forts.

In returning we passed several blockade-runners, amongst others the
steamer Kate, with the new double screw. These vessels are painted the
same colour as the water; as many as three or four often go in and out
with impunity during one night; but they never attempt it except in
cloudy weather. They are very seldom captured, and charge an enormous
price for passengers and freight. It is doubtful whether the traffic of
the private blockade-runners doesn't do more harm than good to the
country by depreciating its currency, and they are generally looked upon
as regular gambling speculations. I have met many persons who are of
opinion that the trade ought to be stopped, except for Government stores
and articles necessary for the public welfare.

After we had landed, Captain Feilden took me on board one of the new
ironclads which are being built, and which are supposed to be a great
improvement upon the Chicora and Palmetto State; these are already
afloat, and did good service last February by issuing suddenly forth,
and driving away the whole blockading squadron for one day. Last night
these two active little vessels were out to look after some blockaders
which were supposed to have ventured inside the bar.

At 5 P.M. I dined with General and Mrs Ripley. The dinner was a very
sumptuous one, for a "blockade" dinner, as General Ripley called it. The
other guests were General Jordan, Chief of the Staff to Beauregard;
General Davis, Mr Nutt, and Colonel Rhett of Fort Sumter. The latter
told me, that if the ironclads had come any closer than they did, he
should have dosed them with flat-headed bolts out of the smooth-bore
guns, which, he thinks, could travel accurately enough for 500 or 600
yards.

Mrs H---- asked me to an evening party, but the extreme badness of my
clothes compelled me to decline the invitation.

[46] As Fort Sumter must be in a very different state now to what it was
when I saw it, I think there can be no harm in describing the fort as it
then stood.--Nov. 1863.

       *       *       *       *       *

_10th June_ (Wednesday).--I dined with Mr and Mrs H---- this afternoon,
and after dinner they drove me to the Battery, which is the popular
promenade. A great many well-dressed people and a few carriages were
there, but the H----s say it is nothing to what it was. Most of the
horses and carriages have been sent out of Charleston since the last
attack. Mrs H---- told me all the ladies began to move out of Charleston
on the morning after the repulse of the Monitors, the impression being
that the serious attack was about to begin. I talked to her about the
smart costumes of the negro women on Sundays; she said the only
difference between them and their mistresses is, that a mulatto woman is
not allowed to wear a veil.

       *       *       *       *       *

_11th June_ (Thursday).--General Ripley took me in his boat to Morris
Island. We passed Fort Sumter on our left, and got aground for five
minutes in its immediate neighbourhood; then bearing off towards the
right, we passed Fort Cummins Point, and (after entering a narrow creek)
Fort Wagner on our left. The latter is a powerful, well-constructed
field-work, mounting nine heavy guns, and it completely cuts across
Morris Island at the end nearest to Fort Sumter. General Ripley pointed
at Fort Wagner with some pride.

We landed near the house of the colonel who commanded the troops in
Morris Island,[47] and borrowed his horses to ride to the further
extremity of the island. We passed the wreck of the Keokuk, whose turret
was just visible above the water, at a distance from the shore of about
1500 yards. On this beach I also inspected the remains of the so-called
"Yankee Devil," a curious construction, which on the day of the attack
had been pushed into the harbour by one of the Monitors. This vessel,
with her appendage, happened to be the first to receive the fire of Fort
Sumter, and after a quarter of an hour Monitor and Devil got foul of one
another, when both came to grief, and the latter floated harmlessly
ashore. It seems to have been composed of double twenty-inch beams,
forming a sort of platform or stage fifty feet long by twenty broad,
from which depended chains with grappling irons to rake up hostile
torpedoes. The machine was also provided with a gigantic torpedo of its
own, which was to blow up piles or other obstacles.

Morris Island is a miserable, low, sandy desert, and at its further
extremity there is a range of low sandhills, which form admirable
natural parapets. About ten guns and mortars were placed behind them,
and two companies of regular artillery were stationed at this point
under the command of Captain Mitchell (the "patriot's" son), to whom I
was introduced. He seemed a quiet, unassuming man, and was spoken of by
General Ripley as an excellent officer. He told me he expected to be
able to open fire in a day or two upon the Yankees in Folly Island and
Little Folly; and he expressed a hope that a few shell might drive them
out from Little Folly, which is only distant 600 yards from his guns.
The enemy's large batteries are on Folly Island, 3400 yards off, but
within range of Captain Mitchell's rifled artillery, one of which was a
twelve-pounder, Whitworth.

A blockade-runner, named the Ruby, deceived by some lights on Folly
Island, ran ashore at one o'clock this morning in the narrow inlet
between Morris Island and Little Folly. The Yankees immediately opened
fire on her, and her crew, despairing of getting her off, set her on
fire--a foolish measure, as she was right under Captain Mitchell's
guns--and whenever a group of Yankees approached the wreck, a shell was
placed in their midst, which effectually checked their curiosity. The
Ruby was therefore burning in peace. Her crew had escaped, all except
one man, who was drowned in trying to save a valuable trunk.

After having conversed some time with Captain Mitchell and his brother
officers, we took leave of them; and General Ripley, pursuing his tour
of inspection, took me up some of the numerous creeks which intersect
the low marshy land of James Island. In one of these I saw the shattered
remains of the sham Keokuk, which was a wooden imitation of its equally
short-lived original, and had been used as a floating target by the
different forts.

In passing Fort Sumter, I observed that the eastern face, from which
the guns (except those _en barbette_) had been removed, was being
further strengthened by a facing of twelve feet of sand, supported by
logs of wood. There can be no doubt that Sumter could be destroyed if a
vessel could be found impervious enough to lie pretty close in and
batter it for five hours; but with its heavy armament and plunging fire,
this catastrophe was not deemed probable. General Ripley told me that,
in his opinion, the proper manner to attack Charleston, was to land on
Morris Island, take Forts Wagner and Cummins Point, and then turn their
guns on Fort Sumter. He does not think much of the 15-inch guns. The
enemy does not dare use more than 35 lb. of powder to propel 425 lb. of
iron; the velocity consequently is very trifling. He knows and admires
the British 68-pounder, weighing 95 cwt., but he does not think it heavy
enough effectually to destroy ironclads. He considers the 11-inch gun,
throwing a shot of 170 lb., as the most efficient for that purpose.

In returning from Morris Island, we passed two steamers, which had
successfully run the blockade last night, besides the luckless Ruby,
which had also passed the blockading squadron before she came to grief.
The names of the other two are the Anaconda and Racoon, both
fine-looking vessels.

I dined at Mr Robertson's, at the corner of Rutledge Street, and met
Captain Tucker of the navy there. He is a very good fellow, and a
perfect gentleman. He commands the Chicora gunboat, and it was he who,
with his own and another gunboat (Palmetto State), crossed the bar last
February, and raised the blockade for a few hours. He told me that
several Yankee blockaders surrendered, but could not be taken possession
of, and the others bolted at such a pace as to render pursuit hopeless,
for these little gunboats are very slow. They made the attack at
daylight, and though much fired at were never struck. They seem to have
taken the Yankees by surprise, and to have created great alarm; but at
that time the blockading squadron consisted entirely of improvised
men-of-war. Since this exploit, the frigate Ironsides, and the sloop of
war Powhattan, have been added to its strength.

It poured with rain during the evening, and we had a violent
thunderstorm. General Beauregard returned to Charleston this afternoon.

[47] This must have been about the spot from whence Fort Sumter was
afterwards bombarded. I cannot help thinking that the Confederates made
a great mistake in not fortifying the further end of Morris Island and
keeping a larger garrison there, for when the Federals landed, they met
with no fortification until they reached Fort Wagner.

       *       *       *       *       *

_12th June_ (Friday).--I called at an exchange office this morning, and
asked the value of gold: they offered me six to one for it. I went to a
slave auction at 11; but they had been so quick about it that the whole
affair was over before I arrived, although I was only ten minutes late.
The negroes--about fifteen men, three women, and three children--were
seated on benches, looking perfectly contented and indifferent. I saw
the buyers opening the mouths and showing the teeth of their new
purchases to their friends in a very business-like manner. This was
certainly not a very agreeable spectacle to an Englishman, and I know
that many Southerners participate in the same feeling; for I have often
been told by people that they had never seen a negro sold by auction,
and never wished to do so. It is impossible to mention names in
connection with such a subject, but I am perfectly aware that many
influential men in the South feel humiliated and annoyed with several of
the incidents connected with slavery; and I think that if the
Confederate States were _left alone_, the system would be much modified
and amended, although complete emancipation cannot be expected; for the
Southerners believe it to be as impracticable to cultivate cotton on a
large scale in the South, without forced black labour, as the British
have found it to produce sugar in Jamaica; and they declare that the
example the English have set them of sudden emancipation in that island
is by no means encouraging. They say that that magnificent colony,
formerly so wealthy and prosperous, is now nearly valueless--the land
going out of cultivation--the Whites ruined--the Blacks idle, slothful,
and supposed to be in a great measure relapsing into their primitive
barbarism.

At 12 o'clock I called by appointment on Captain Tucker, on board the
Chicora.[48] The accommodation below is good, considering the nature and
peculiar shape of the vessel; but in hot weather the quarters are very
close and unhealthy, for which reason she is moored alongside a wharf on
which her crew live. Captain Tucker expressed great confidence in his
vessel during calm weather, and when not exposed to a plunging fire. He
said he should not hesitate to attack even the present blockading
squadron, if it were not for certain reasons which he explained to me.

Captain Tucker expects great results from certain newly-invented
submarine inventions, which he thinks are sure to succeed. He told me
that, in the April attack, these two gunboats were placed in rear of
Fort Sumter, and if, as was anticipated, the Monitors had managed to
force their way past Sumter, they would have been received from
different directions by the powerful battery Bee on Sullivan's Island,
by this island, Forts Pinckney and Ripley, by the two gunboats, and by
Fort Johnson on James Island--a nest of hornets from which they would
perhaps never have returned.

At 1 P.M. I called on General Beauregard, who is a man of middle
height, about forty-seven years of age. He would be very youthful in
appearance were it not for the colour of his hair, which is much greyer
than his earlier photographs represent. Some persons account for the
sudden manner in which his hair turned grey by allusions to his cares
and anxieties during the last two years; but the real and less romantic
reason is to be found in the rigidity of the Yankee blockade, which
interrupts the arrival of articles of toilette. He has a long straight
nose, handsome brown eyes, and a dark mustache without whiskers, and his
manners are extremely polite. He is a New Orleans creole, and French is
his native language.

[Illustration: GENERAL G. T. BEAUREGARD.]

He was extremely civil to me, and arranged that I should see some of
the land fortifications to-morrow. He spoke to me of the inevitable
necessity, sooner or later, of a war between the Northern States and
Great Britain; and he remarked that, if England would join the South at
once, the Southern armies, relieved of the present blockade and enormous
Yankee pressure, would be able to march right into the Northern States,
and, by occupying their principal cities, would give the Yankees so much
employment that they would be unable to spare many men for Canada. He
acknowledged that in Mississippi General Grant had displayed uncommon
vigour, and met with considerable success, considering that he was a man
of no great military capacity. He said that Johnston was certainly
acting slowly and with much caution; but then he had not the veteran
troops of Bragg or Lee. He told me that he (Beauregard) had organised
both the Virginian and Tennessean armies. Both are composed of the same
materials, both have seen much service, though, on the whole, the first
had been the most severely tried. He said that in the Confederate
organisation a brigade is composed of four regiments, a division ought
to number 10,000 men, and a _corps d'armée_ 40,000. But I know that
neither Polk nor Hardee have got anything like that number.[49]

At 5.30 P.M. the firing on Morris Island became distinctly audible.
Captain Mitchell had evidently commenced his operations against Little
Folly.

Whilst I was walking on the battery this evening, a gentleman came up
to me and recalled himself to my recollection as Mr Meyers of the
Sumter, whom I had known at Gibraltar a year ago. This was one of the
two persons who were arrested at Tangier by the acting United States
consul in such an outrageous manner. He told me that he had been kept in
irons during his whole voyage, in the merchant vessel, to the United
States; and, in spite of the total illegality of his capture on neutral
ground he was imprisoned for four months in Fort Warren, and not
released until regularly exchanged as a prisoner of war. Mr Meyers was
now most anxious to rejoin Captain Semmes, or some other rover.

I understand that when the attack took place in April, the garrison of
Fort Sumter received the Monitors with great courtesy as they steamed
up. The three flagstaffs were dressed with flags, the band from the top
of the fort played the national airs, and a salute of twenty-one guns
was fired, after which the entertainment provided was of a more solid
description.

[48] I have omitted a description of this little gunboat, as she is
still doing good service in Charleston harbour--November 1863.

[49] A division does nearly always number 10,000 men, but then there are
generally only two or three divisions in a _corps d'armée_.

       *       *       *       *       *

_13th June_ (Saturday).--Colonel Rice, aide-de-camp to General
Beauregard, rode with me to "Secessionville" this morning. I was mounted
on the horse which the General rode at Manassas and Shiloh. We reached
James Island by crossing the long wooden bridge which spans the river
Ashley. The land of James Island is low and marshy, and is both by
repute and in appearance most unhealthy. Three years ago no white men
would have dreamed of occupying it at this time of year; but now that
the necessity has arisen, the troops, curiously enough, do not appear to
suffer.

"Secessionville," the most advanced and most important of the James
Island fortifications, is distant by road eight miles from Charleston
bridge, with which it is connected by a chain of forts. It was surprised
by the enemy just a year ago (June 1862), and was the scene of a
desperate conflict, which resulted in the repulse of the Federals with a
loss of nearly 800 men. The Confederates lost 150 men on this occasion,
which as yet has been the only serious loss of life at Charleston during
the war. Colonel Lamar, who commanded the garrison with great gallantry,
was one of the few victims to yellow fever last year. The Yankees
attacked the fort three times with much bravery and determination, and
actually reached the superior slope of the parapet before they were
driven back. They were within an ace of being successful; and although
they deserved great credit for their behaviour on that occasion, yet it
is understood that the officer who organised the attack has either been
dismissed the service or otherwise punished.

Lieutenant-Colonel Brown, the commandant, who showed me over the fort
and bomb-proofs, is quite young, full of zeal, and most anxious to be
attacked; he has ---- artillerymen to man this and the neighbouring
works, and two regiments of infantry are also encamped within a short
distance.

At the time of the attack on Charleston last April there were 30,000
men to defend it; since that time 20,000 had been sent into Mississippi
to reinforce Johnston. I imagine that, as the fortifications are so very
extensive, the Charleston garrison ought to consist of at least 30,000
men.

       *       *       *       *       *

_14th June_ (Sunday).--I went to church at St Michael's, which is one of
the oldest churches in America, and is supposed to have been built a
hundred and fifty years ago. The Charlestonians are very proud of it,
and I saw several monuments of the time of the British dominion.

This morning I made the acquaintance of a Mr Sennec, an officer in the
Confederate States navy, who, with his wife and daughter, were about to
face the terrors and dangers of running the blockade, Mr Sennec having
got an appointment in Europe. The ladies told me they had already made
one start, but after reaching the bar, the night was not considered
propitious, so they had returned. Mr Sennec is thinking of going to
Wilmington, and running from thence, as it is more secure than
Charleston.

I dined at Mr Robertson's this evening, and met a very agreeable party
there--viz., two young ladies, who were extremely pretty, General
Beauregard, Captain Tucker of the Chicora, and Major Norris, the chief
of the secret intelligence bureau at Richmond.

I had a long conversation with General Beauregard, who said he
considered the question of ironclads _versus_ forts as settled,
especially when the fire from the latter is plunging. If the other
Monitors had approached as close as the Keokuk, they would probably have
shared her fate. He thought that both flat-headed rifled 7-inch bolts
and solid 10-inch balls penetrated the ironclads when within 1200 yards.
He agreed with General Ripley that the 15-inch gun is rather a failure;
it is so unwieldy that it can only be fired very slowly, and the
velocity of the ball is so small that it is very difficult to strike a
moving object. He told me that Fort Sumter was to be covered by degrees
with the long green moss which in this country hangs down from the
trees: he thinks that when this is pressed it will deaden the effect of
the shot without being inflammable; and he also said that, even if the
walls of Fort Sumter were battered down, the barbette battery would
still remain, supported on the piers.

The Federal frigate Ironsides took up her position, during the attack,
over 3000 lb. of powder, which was prevented from exploding owing to
some misfortune connected with the communicating wire. General
Beauregard and Captain Tucker both seemed to expect great things from a
newly-invented and extra-diabolical torpedo-ram.

After dinner, Major Norris showed us a copy of a New York illustrated
newspaper of the same character as our 'Punch.' In it the President
Davis and General Beauregard were depicted shoeless and in rags,
contemplating a pair of boots, which the latter suggested had better be
eaten. This caricature excited considerable amusement, especially when
its merits were discussed after Mr Robertson's excellent dinner.

General Beauregard told me he had been educated in the North, and used
to have many friends there, but that _now_ he would sooner submit to the
Emperor of China than return to the Union.

Mr Walter Blake arrived soon after dinner; he had come up from his
plantation on the Combahee river on purpose to see me. He described the
results of the late Yankee raid up that river: forty armed negroes and a
few whites in a miserable steamer were able to destroy and burn an
incalculable amount of property, and carry off hundreds of negroes. Mr
Blake got off very cheap, having only lost twenty-four this time, but he
only saved the remainder by his own personal exertions and
determination. He had now sent all his young males two hundred miles
into the interior for greater safety. He seemed to have a very rough
time of it, living all alone in that pestilential climate. A
neighbouring planter, Mr Lowndes, had lost 290 negroes, and a Mr
Kirkland was totally ruined.

At 7 P.M. Mr Blake and I called at the office of General Ripley, to
whom Mr Blake, notwithstanding that he is an Englishman of nearly sixty
years of age, had served as aide-de-camp during some of the former
operations against Charleston. General Ripley told us that shelling was
still going on vigorously between Morris and Folly Islands, the
Yankees being assisted every now and then by one or more of their
gunboats. The General explained to us that these light-draft armed
vessels--_river-gropers_, as he called them--were indefatigable at
pushing up the numerous creeks, burning and devastating everything. He
said that when he became acquainted with the habits of one of these
"critturs," he arranged an ambuscade for her, and with the assistance of
"his fancy Irishman" (Captain Mitchell), he captured her. This was the
case with the steamer Stono, a short time since, which, having been
caught in this manner by the army, was lost by the navy shortly
afterwards off Sullivan's Island.

News has just been received that Commodore Foote is to succeed Dupont in
the command of the blockading squadron. Most of these officers appeared
to rejoice in this change, as they say Foote is younger, and likely to
show more sport than the venerable Dupont.

       *       *       *       *       *

_15th June_ (Monday).--I called on General Beauregard to say good-bye.
Before parting, he told me that his official orders, both from the
Government and from the Town-Council, were, that he was to allow
Charleston to be laid in ashes sooner than surrender it; the
Confederates being unanimous in their determination that, whatever
happened, the capital of South Carolina should never have to submit to
the fate of New Orleans. But General Beauregard did not at all
anticipate that such an alternative was imminent. In answer to my thanks
for his kindness and courtesy, he said that the more Europeans that came
to the South, the more the Southerners were pleased, as _seeing_ was the
only way to remove many prejudices. He declared everything here was open
and above board, and I really believe this is the case. Most certainly
the civil law is not overruled by the military, except in cases of the
strongest emergency. The press is allowed the most unlimited freedom,
and even licence. Whenever excesses take place, and the law is violated,
this is caused by the violence of the people themselves, who take the
law into their own hands.

General Beauregard sent his love to Sir James Fergusson, who had visited
him during the early part of the war; so also did General Jordan, Chief
of the Staff.

Before taking my departure from the hotel, I was much gratified by
meeting M'Carthy, who had just returned from Richmond. He had had the
good fortune to cross the Mississippi a little later than me, and he had
encountered comparatively few obstacles.

I left Charleston by rail at 2 P.M., in company with Mr Sennec, his
wife, and daughter; and Major Norris, who was extremely kind and useful
to me. I declined travelling in the ladies' car, although offered that
privilege--the advantage of a small amount of extra cleanliness being
outweighed by the screaming of the children, and the constant liability
of being turned out of one's place for a female.

Major Norris told me many amusing anecdotes connected with the secret
intelligence department, and of the numerous ingenious methods for
communicating with the Southern partisans on the other side of the
Potomac.

We reached Florence at 9 P.M., where we were detained for some time
owing to a break-down of another train. We then fought our way into some
desperately crowded cars, and continued our journey throughout the
night.

       *       *       *       *       *

_16th June_ (Tuesday).--Arrived at Wilmington at 5 A.M., and crossed
the river there in a steamer. This river was quite full of
blockade-runners. I counted eight large steamers, all handsome
leaden-coloured vessels, which ply their trade with the greatest
regularity. Half these ships were engaged in carrying goods on
Government account; and I was told that the quantity of boots, clothing,
saltpetre, lead, and tin, which they bring into the country, is very
great. I cannot suppose that in ordinary times there would be anything
like such a trade as this, at a little place like Wilmington, which
shows the absurdity of calling the blockade an efficient one.

This blockade-running is an extraordinary instance of British energy and
enterprise. When I was at Charleston, I asked Mr Robertson whether any
French vessels had run the blockade. In reply he told me it was a very
peculiar fact that "one of the partners of Fraser & Co. being a
Frenchman, was extremely anxious to engage a French vessel in the trade.
Expense was no object; the ship and the cargo were forthcoming; nothing
was wanted but a French captain and a French crew (to make the ship
legally French); but although any amount of money was offered as an
inducement, they were not to be found, and this obstacle was
insurmountable." Not the slightest difficulty is experienced at
Liverpool in officering and manning any number of ships for this
purpose.

Major Norris went to call upon Mr Vallandigham, whom he had escorted to
Wilmington as a sort of semi-prisoner some days ago. Mr Vallandigham was
in bed. He told Major Norris that he intended to run the blockade this
evening for Bermuda, from whence he should find his way to the Clifton
Hotel, Canada, where he intended to publish a newspaper, and agitate
Ohio across the frontier. Major Norris found him much elated by the news
of his having been nominated for the governorship of Ohio; and he
declared if he was duly elected, his State could dictate peace.

In travelling through the country to Wilmington, these two used to
converse much on politics; and Major Norris once said to him, "Now, from
what you have seen and heard in your journey through the South, you must
know that a reconstruction of the old union, under any circumstances, is
utterly impossible." Vallandigham had replied, "Well, all I can say is,
_I hope_, and at all events I know, that my scheme of a suspension of
hostilities is the only one which has any prospect of ultimate
success."[50]

At Wilmington I took leave with regret of Mr Sennec and his family, who
were also to run the blockade this evening. Miss Sennec is much too
pretty to risk a collision with a fragment of a shell; but here no one
seems to think anything of the risk of passing through the Yankee fleet,
as the "runners," though often fired at, are very seldom hit or
captured, and their captains are becoming more and more knowing every
day. I was obliged to go to the provost-marshal's office to get
Beauregard's pass renewed there, as North Carolina is out of his
district: in doing so I very nearly missed the train.

I left Wilmington at 7 A.M. The weather was very hot and oppressive, and
the cars dreadfully crowded all day. The luxuries of Charleston had also
spoiled me for the "road," as I could no longer appreciate at their
proper value the "hog and hominy" meals which I had been so thankful for
in Texas; but I found Major Norris a very agreeable and instructive
companion. We changed cars again at Weldon, where I had a terrific fight
for a seat, but I succeeded; for experience had made me very quick at
this sort of business. I always carry my saddlebags and knapsack with
me into the car.

[50] I have often heard Southerners speak of this proposal of
Vallandigham's as _most insidious_ and dangerous; but the opinion now is
that things have gone too far to permit reunion under any circumstances.

       *       *       *       *       *

_17th June_ (Wednesday).--We reached Petersburgh at 3 A.M., and had to
get out and traverse this town in carts, after which we had to lie down
in the road until some other cars were opened. We left Petersburgh at 5
A.M. and arrived at Richmond at 7 A.M., having taken forty-one hours
coming from Charleston. The railroad between Petersburgh and Richmond is
protected by extensive field-works, and the woods have been cut down to
give range. An irruption of the enemy in this direction has evidently
been contemplated; and we met a brigade of infantry half-way between
Petersburgh and Richmond on its way to garrison the latter place, as the
Yankees are reported to be menacing in that neighbourhood.

The scenery near Richmond is very pretty, and rather English-looking.
The view of the James River from the railway bridge is quite beautiful,
though the water is rather low at present. The weather was extremely hot
and oppressive, and, for the first time since I left Havana, I really
suffered from the heat.

At 10 A.M. I called on General Cooper, Adjutant-General to the
Confederate forces, and senior general in the army. He is brother-in-law
to Mr Mason, the Southern Commissioner in London. I then called upon Mr
Benjamin, the Secretary of State, who made an appointment with me to
meet him at his house at 7 P.M. The public offices are handsome stone
buildings, and seemed to be well arranged for business. I found at least
as much difficulty in gaining access to the great men as there would be
in European countries; but when once admitted, I was treated with the
greatest courtesy. The anterooms were crowded with people patiently
waiting for an audience.

The streets of Richmond are named and numbered in a most puzzling
manner, and the greater part of the houses are not numbered at all. It
is the most hilly city I have seen in America, and its population is
unnaturally swollen since the commencement of the war. The fact of there
being abundance of ice appeared to me an immense luxury, as I had never
seen any before in the South; but it seems that the winters are quite
severe in Northern Virginia.

I was sorry to hear in the highest quarters the gloomiest forebodings
with regard to the fate of Vicksburg. This fortress is in fact _given
up_, and all now despair of General Johnston's being able to effect
anything towards its relief.

I kept my appointment with Mr Benjamin at 7 o'clock. He is a stout
dapper little man, evidently of Hebrew extraction, and of undoubted
talent. He is a Louisianian, and was senator for that state in the old
United States Congress, and I believe he is accounted a very clever
lawyer and a brilliant orator. He told me that he had filled the onerous
post of Secretary of War during the first seven months of the Secession,
and I can easily believe that he found it no sinecure. We conversed for
a long time about the origin of secession, which he indignantly denied
was brought about, as the Yankees assert, by the interested machinations
of individuals. He declared that, for the last ten years, the Southern
statesmen had openly stated in Congress what would take place; but the
Northerners never would believe they were in earnest, and had often
replied by the taunt, "The South was so bound to, and dependent on, the
North, that _she couldn't be kicked out of the Union_."

He said that the Southern armies had always been immensely outnumbered
in all their battles, and that until recently General Lee could never
muster more than 60,000 effective men. He confessed that the Southern
forces consisted altogether of about 350,000 to 400,000 men; and when I
asked him where they all were, he replied that, on account of the
enormous tract of country to be defended, and the immense advantages the
enemy possessed by his facilities for sea and river transportation the
South was obliged to keep large bodies of men unemployed, and at great
distances from each other, awaiting the sudden invasions or raids to
which they were continually exposed. Besides which, the Northern troops,
which numbered (he supposed) 600,000 men, having had as yet but little
defensive warfare, could all be employed for aggressive purposes.

He asserted that England has still, and always had had it, in her power
to terminate the war by recognition, and by making a commercial treaty
with the South; and he denied that the Yankees really would dare to go
to war with Great Britain for doing so, however much they might swagger
about it: he said that recognition would not increase the Yankee hatred
of England, for this, whether just or unjust, was already as intense as
it could possibly be. I then alluded to the supposed ease with which
they could overrun Canada, and to the temptation which its unprotected
towns must offer to the large numbers of Irish and German mercenaries in
the Northern armies. He answered, "They probably could not do that so
easily as some people suppose, and they know perfectly well that you
could deprive them of California (a far more serious loss) with much
greater ease." This consideration, together with the certainty of an
entire blockade of their ports, the total destruction of their trade,
and an invasion on a large scale by the Southern troops, in reality
prevents the possibility of their declaring war upon England at the
present time, any more than they did at the period of their great
national humiliation in the Mason-Slidell affair.

Mr Benjamin told me that his property had lately been confiscated in
New Orleans, and that his two sisters had been turned, neck and crop,
into the streets there, with only one trunk, which they had been forced
to carry themselves. Every one was afraid to give them shelter, except
an Englishwoman, who protected them until they could be got out of the
city.

Talking of the just admiration which the English newspapers accorded to
Stonewall Jackson, he expressed, however, his astonishment that they
should have praised so highly his strategic skill in outmanoeuvring
Pope at Manassas, and Hooker at Chancellorsville, totally ignoring that
in both cases the movements were planned and ordered by General Lee, for
whom (Mr Benjamin said) Jackson had the most "childlike reverence."

Mr Benjamin complained of Mr Russell of the 'Times' for holding him up
to fame as a "gambler"--a story which he understood Mr Russell had
learnt from Mr Charles Sumner at Washington. But even supposing that
this was really the case, Mr Benjamin was of opinion that such a
revelation of his private life was in extremely bad taste, after Mr
Russell had partaken of his (Mr Benjamin's) hospitality at Mongomery.

He said the Confederates were more amused than annoyed at the term
"rebel," which was so constantly applied to them; but he only wished
mildly to remark, that in order to be a "rebel," a person must rebel
against some one who has a right to govern him; and he thought it would
be very difficult to discover such a right as existing in the Northern
over the Southern States.

In order to prepare a treaty of peace, he said, "It would only
be necessary to write on a blank sheet of paper the words
'_self-government_.' Let the Yankees accord that, and they might fill up
the paper in any manner they chose. We don't want any State that doesn't
want us; but we only wish that each State should decide fairly upon its
own destiny. All we are struggling for is to be let alone."

At 8 P.M. Mr Benjamin walked with me to the President's dwelling, which
is a private house at the other end of the town. I had tea there, and
uncommonly good tea too--the first I had tasted in the Confederacy. Mrs
Davis was unfortunately unwell and unable to see me.

Mr Jefferson Davis struck me as looking older than I expected. He is
only fifty-six, but his face is emaciated, and much wrinkled. He is
nearly six feet high, but is extremely thin, and stoops a little. His
features are good, especially his eye, which is very bright, and full of
life and humour. I was afterwards told he had lost the sight of his left
eye from a recent illness. He wore a linen coat and grey trousers, and
he looked what he evidently is, a well-bred gentleman. Nothing can
exceed the charm of his manner, which is simple, easy, and most
fascinating. He conversed with me for a long time, and agreed with
Benjamin that the Yankees did not really intend to go to war with
England if she recognised the South; and he said that, when the
inevitable smash came--and that separation was an accomplished fact--the
State of Maine would probably try to join Canada, as most of the
intelligent people in that state have a horror of being "_under the
thumb of Massachusetts_." He added, that Maine was inhabited by a hardy,
thrifty, seafaring population, with different ideas to the people in the
other New England states.

When I spoke to him of the wretched scenes I had witnessed in his own
State (Mississippi), and of the miserable, almost desperate, situation
in which I had found so many unfortunate women, who had been left behind
by their male relations; and when I alluded in admiration to the quiet,
calm, uncomplaining manner in which they bore their sufferings and their
grief, he said, with much feeling, that he always considered _silent
despair_ the most painful description of misery to witness, in the same
way that he thought _mute insanity_ was the most awful form of madness.

He spoke to me of Grenfell, who, he said, seemed to be serving the
Confederacy in a disinterested and loyal manner. He had heard much of
his gallantry and good services, and he was very sorry when I told him
of Grenfell's quarrel with the civil power.

He confirmed the truth of my remark, that a Confederate general is
either considered an Admirable Crichton by the soldiers, or else abused
as everything bad; and he added, the misfortune was, that it is
absolutely necessary, in order to insure success, that a general must
obtain and preserve this popularity and influence with his men, who
were, however, generally very willing to accord their confidence to any
officer deserving of it.

With regard to the black-flag-and-no-quarter agitation, he said people
would talk a great deal, and even go into action determined to give no
quarter; "but," he added, "I have yet to hear of Confederate soldiers
putting men to death who have thrown down their arms and held up their
hands."

He told me that Lord Russell confessed that the impartial carrying out
of the neutrality laws had pressed hard upon the South; and Mr Davis
asserted that the pressure might have been equalised, and yet retained
its impartiality, if Great Britain, instead of closing her ports, had
opened them to the prizes of both parties; but I answered that perhaps
this might be over-doing it a little on the other side.

When I took my leave about 9 o'clock, the President asked me to call
upon him again. I don't think it is possible for any one to have an
interview with him without going away most favourably impressed by his
agreeable, unassuming manners, and by the charm of his conversation.
Whilst walking home, Mr Benjamin told me that Mr Davis's military
instincts still predominate, and that his eager wish was to have joined
the army instead of being elected President.

During my travels, many people have remarked to me that Jefferson Davis
seems in a peculiar manner adapted for his office. His military
education at West Point rendered him intimately acquainted with the
higher officers of the army; and his post of Secretary of War under the
old Government brought officers of all ranks under his immediate
personal knowledge and supervision. No man could have formed a more
accurate estimate of their respective merits. This is one of the reasons
which gave the Confederates such an immense start in the way of
generals; for having formed his opinion with regard to appointing an
officer, Mr Davis is always most determined to carry out his intention
in spite of every obstacle. His services in the Mexican war gave him the
prestige of a brave man and a good soldier. His services as a statesman
pointed him out as the only man who, by his unflinching determination
and administrative talent, was able to control the popular will. People
speak of any misfortune happening to him as an irreparable evil too
dreadful to contemplate.

Before we reached the Spottswood Hotel, we met ----, to whom Mr Benjamin
introduced me. They discussed the great topic of the day--viz., the
recapture of Winchester by General Ewell, the news of which had just
arrived, and they both expressed their regret that General Milroy should
have escaped. It appears that this Yankee commander, for his alleged
crimes, had been put _hors de la loi_ by the Confederates in the same
manner as General Butler. ---- said to me, "We hope he may not be taken
alive; but if he is, we will not shrink from the responsibility of
putting him to death."

       *       *       *       *       *

_18th June_ (Thursday).--At 10 A.M. I called by appointment on Mr
Sedden, the Secretary at War. His anteroom was crowded with applicants
for an interview, and I had no slight difficulty in getting in. Mr
Sedden is a cadaverous but clever-looking man; he received me with great
kindness, and immediately furnished me with letters of introduction for
Generals Lee and Longstreet.

My friend Major Norris then took me to the President's office and
introduced me to the aides-de-camp of the President--viz., Colonels
Wood, Lee, and Johnston. The two latter are sons to General Lee and
General Albert Sidney Johnston, who was killed at Shiloh.

Major Norris then took me to the capitol, and introduced me to Mr
Thompson the librarian, and to Mr Meyers, who is now supposed to look
after British interests since the abrupt departure of Mr Moore, the
Consul. I was told that Mr Moore had always been considered a good
friend to the Southern cause, and had got into the mess which caused his
removal entirely by his want of tact and discretion. There is a fine
view from the top of the capitol; the librarian told me that last year
the fighting before Richmond could easily be seen from thence, and that
many ladies used to go up for that purpose. Every one said, that
notwithstanding the imminence of the danger, the population of Richmond
continued their daily avocations, and that no alarm was felt as to the
result.

The interior of the capitol is decorated with numerous flags captured
from the enemy. They are very gorgeous, all silk and gold, and form a
great contrast to the little bunting battle flags of the Confederates.
Amongst them I saw two colours which had belonged to the same regiment,
the 37th New York (I think). These were captured in different battles;
and on the last that was taken there is actually inscribed as a victory
the word _Fairoaks_, which was the engagement in which the regiment had
lost its first colour.

Mr Butler King, a member of Congress, whose acquaintance I had made in
the Spottswood Hotel, took me to spend the evening at Mrs S----'s, a
charming widow, for whom I had brought a letter from her only son,
aide-de-camp to General Magruder, in Texas.

Mrs S---- is clever and agreeable. She is a highly patriotic Southerner;
but she told me that she had stuck fast to the Union until Lincoln's
proclamation calling out 75,000 men to coerce the South, which converted
her and such a number of others into strong Secessionists. I spent a
very pleasant evening with Mrs S----, who had been much in England, and
had made a large acquaintance there.

Mr Butler King is a Georgian gentleman, also very agreeable and well
informed. It is surprising to hear the extraordinary equanimity with
which he and hundreds of fellow-sufferers talk of their entire ruin and
the total destruction of their property. I know many persons in England
suppose that Great Britain has now made enemies both of the North and
South; but I do not believe this is the case with respect to the South,
whatever certain Richmond papers may say. The South looks to England for
everything when this war is over;--she wants our merchants to buy her
cotton, she wants our ships to carry it;--she is willing that England
should supply her with all the necessaries which she formerly received
from the North. It is common to hear people declare they would rather
pay twice the price for English goods than trade any more with
Yankeedom.

       *       *       *       *       *

_19th June_ (Friday).--I embarked at 10 A.M. on board a small steamer
to visit Drewry's Bluff on the James River, the scene of the repulse of
the ironclads Monitor and Galena. The stream exactly opposite Richmond
is very shallow and rocky, but it becomes navigable about a mile below
the city. Drewry's Bluff is about eight miles distant, and, before
reaching it, we had to pass through two bridges--one of boats, and the
other a wooden bridge. I was shown over the fortifications by Captain
Chatard, Confederate States navy, who was in command during the absence
of Captain Lee. A flotilla of Confederate gunboats was lying just above
the obstructions, and nearly opposite to the bluff. Amongst them was the
Yorktown, _alias_ Patrick Henry, which, under the command of my friend
Captain Tucker, figured in the memorable Merrimac attack. There was also
an ironclad called the Richmond, and two or three smaller craft. Beyond
Drewry's Bluff, on the opposite side of the river, is Chaffin's Bluff,
which mounts ---- heavy guns, and forms the extreme right of the
Richmond defences on that side of the river.

At the time of the attack by the two Federal ironclads, assisted by
several wooden gunboats, there were only three guns mounted on Drewry's
Bluff, which is from 80 to 90 feet high. These had been hastily removed
from the Yorktown, and dragged up there by Captain Tucker on the
previous day. They were either smooth-bore 32-pounders or 8-inch guns, I
forget which. During the contest the Monitor, notwithstanding her recent
exploits with the Merrimac, kept herself out of much danger, partly
concealed behind the bend of the river; but her consort, the ironclad
Galena, approached boldly to within 500 yards of the bluff. The wooden
gunboats remained a considerable distance down the river. After the
fight had lasted about four hours the Galena withdrew much crippled, and
has never, I believe, been known to fame since. The result of the
contest goes to confirm the opinion expressed to me by General
Beauregard--viz., that ironclads cannot resist the plunging fire of
forts, even though that latter can only boast of the old smooth-bore
guns.

A Captain Maury took me on board the Richmond ironclad, in which vessel
I saw a 7-inch treble-banded Brook gun, weighing, they told me, 21,000
lb., and capable of standing a charge of 25 lb. of powder. Amongst my
fellow-passengers from Richmond I had observed a very Hibernian-looking
prisoner in charge of one soldier. Captain Maury informed me that this
individual was being taken to Chaffin's Bluff, where he is to be shot at
12 noon to-morrow for desertion.

Major Norris and I bathed in James river at 7 P.M. from a rocky and very
pretty island in the centre of the stream.

I spent another very agreeable evening at Mrs S----'s, and met General
Randolph, Mr Butler King, and Mr Conrad there; also Colonel Johnston,
aide-de-camp to the President, who told me that they had been forced, in
order to stop Burnside's executions in Kentucky, to select two Federal
captains, and put them under orders for death. General Randolph looks in
weak health. He had for some time filled the post of Secretary of War;
but it is supposed that he and the President did not quite hit it off
together. Mr Conrad as well as Mr King is a member of Congress, and he
explained to me that, at the beginning of the war, each State was most
desirous of being put (without the slightest necessity) under military
law, which they thought was quite the correct remedy for all evil; but
so sick did they soon become of this _regime_ that at the last session
Congress had refused the President the power of putting any place under
military law, which is just as absurd in the other direction.

I hear every one complaining dreadfully of General Johnston's inactivity
in Mississippi, and all now despair of saving Vicksburg. They deplore
its loss, more on account of the effect its conquest may have in
prolonging the war, than for any other reason. No one seems to fear that
its possession, together with Port Hudson, will really enable the
Yankees to navigate the Mississippi; nor do they fear that the latter
will be able to prevent communication with the trans-Mississippi
country.

Many of the Richmond papers seem to me scarcely more respectable than
the New York ones. Party spirit runs high. Liberty of the press is
carried to its fullest extent.

       *       *       *       *       *

_20th June_ (Saturday).--Armed with letters of introduction from the
Secretary-at-War for Generals Lee and Longstreet, I left Richmond at 6
A.M., to join the Virginian army. I was accompanied by a sergeant of the
Signal Corps, sent by my kind friend Major Norris, for the purpose of
assisting me in getting on. We took the train as far as Culpepper, and
arrived there at 5.30 P.M., after having changed cars at Gordonsville,
near which place I observed an enormous pile of excellent rifles rotting
in the open air. These had been captured at Chancellorsville; but the
Confederates have already such a superabundant stock of rifles that
apparently they can afford to let them spoil. The weather was quite cool
after the rain of last night. The country through which we passed had
been in the enemy's hands last year, and was evacuated by them after the
battles before Richmond; but at that time it was not their custom to
burn, destroy, and devastate--everything looked green and beautiful, and
did not in the least give one the idea of a hot country.

In his late daring raid, the Federal General Stoneman crossed this
railroad, and destroyed a small portion of it, burned a few buildings,
and penetrated to within three miles of Richmond; but he and his men
were in such a hurry that they had not time to do much serious harm.

Culpepper was, until five days ago, the headquarters of Generals Lee
and Longstreet; but since Ewell's recapture of Winchester, the whole
army had advanced with rapidity, and it was my object to catch it up as
quickly as possible. On arriving at Culpepper, my sergeant handed me
over to another myrmidon of Major Norris, with orders from that officer
to supply me with a horse, and take me himself to join Mr Lawley, who
had passed through for the same purpose as myself three days before.

Sergeant Norris, my new chaperon, is cousin to Major Norris, and is a
capital fellow. Before the war he was a gentleman of good means in
Maryland, and was accustomed to a life of luxury; he now lives the life
of a private soldier with perfect contentment, and is utterly
indifferent to civilisation and comfort. Although he was unwell when I
arrived, and it was pouring with rain, he proposed that we should start
at once--6 P.M. I agreed, and we did so. Our horses had both sore backs,
were both unfed, except on grass, and mine was deficient of a shoe. They
nevertheless travelled well, and we reached a hamlet called Woodville,
fifteen miles distant, at 9.30. We had great difficulty in procuring
shelter; but at length we overcame the inhospitality of a native, who
gave us a feed of corn for our horses, and a blanket on the floor for
ourselves.

       *       *       *       *       *

_21st June_ (Sunday).--We got the horse shod with some delay, and after
refreshing the animals with corn and ourselves with bacon, we effected a
start at 8.15 A.M. We experienced considerable difficulty in carrying my
small saddlebags and knapsack, on account of the state of our horses'
backs. Mine was not very bad, but that of Norris was in a horrid state.
We had not travelled more than a few miles when the latter animal cast a
shoe, which took us an hour to replace at a village called Sperryville.
The country is really magnificent, but as it has supported two large
armies for two years, it is now completely cleaned out. It is almost
uncultivated, and no animals are grazing where there used to be
hundreds. All fences have been destroyed, and numberless farms burnt,
the chimneys alone left standing. It is difficult to depict and
impossible to exaggerate the sufferings which this part of Virginia has
undergone. But the ravages of war have not been able to destroy the
beauties of nature--the verdure is charming, the trees magnificent, the
country undulating, and the Blue Ridge mountains form the background.

Being Sunday, we met about thirty negroes going to church, wonderfully
smartly dressed, some (both male and female) riding on horseback, and
others in waggons; but Mr Norris informs me that two years ago we should
have numbered them by hundreds. We soon began to catch up the sick and
broken-down men of the army, but not in great numbers; most of them were
well shod, though I saw two without shoes.

After crossing a gap in the Blue Ridge range, we reached Front Royal at
5 P.M., and we were now in the well-known Shenandoah Valley--the scene
of Jackson's celebrated campaigns. Front Royal is a pretty little place,
and was the theatre of one of the earliest fights in the war, which was
commenced by a Maryland regiment of Confederates, who, as Mr Norris
observed, "jumped on to" a Federal regiment from the same State, and
"whipped it badly." Since that time the village has changed hands
continually, and was visited by the Federals only a few days previous to
Ewell's rapid advance ten days ago.

After immense trouble we procured a feed of corn for the horses, and, to
Mr Norris's astonishment, I was impudent enough to get food for
ourselves by appealing to the kind feelings of two good-looking female
citizens of Front Royal, who, during our supper, entertained us by
stories of the manner they annoyed the Northern soldiers by disagreeable
allusions to "Stonewall" Jackson.

We started again at 6.30, and crossed two branches of the Shenandoah
River, a broad and rapid stream. Both the railway and carriage bridges
having been destroyed, we had to ford it; and as the water was deep, we
were only just able to accomplish the passage. The soldiers, of whom
there were a number with us, took off their trousers, and held their
rifles and ammunition above their heads. Soon afterwards our horses
became very leg-weary; for although the weather had been cool, the roads
were muddy and hard upon them. At 8.30 we came up with Pender's Division
encamped on the sides of hills, illuminated with innumerable camp-fires,
which looked very picturesque. After passing through about two miles of
bivouacs, we begged for shelter in the hayloft of a Mr Mason: we turned
our horses into a field, and found our hayloft most luxurious after
forty-six miles' ride at a foot's pace.

Stonewall Jackson is considered a regular demigod in this country.

       *       *       *       *       *

_22d June_ (Monday).--We started without food or corn at 6.30 A.M., and
soon became entangled with Pender's Division on its line of march, which
delayed us a good deal. My poor brute of a horse also took this
opportunity of throwing two more shoes, which we found it impossible to
replace, all the blacksmiths' shops having been pressed by the troops.

The soldiers of this Division are a remarkably fine body of men, and
look quite seasoned and ready for any work. Their clothing is
serviceable, so also are their boots; but there is the usual utter
absence of uniformity as to colour and shape of their garments and hats:
grey of all shades, and brown clothing, with felt hats, predominate. The
Confederate troops are now entirely armed with excellent rifles, mostly
Enfields. When they first turned out, they were in the habit of wearing
numerous revolvers and bowie-knives. General Lee is said to have mildly
remarked, "Gentlemen, I think you will find an Enfield rifle, a bayonet,
and sixty rounds of ammunition, as much as you can conveniently carry in
the way of arms." They laughed, and thought they knew better; but the
six-shooters and bowie-knives gradually disappeared; and now none are to
be seen among the infantry.

The artillery horses are in poor condition, and only get 3 lb. of
corn[51] a-day. The artillery is of all kinds--Parrots, Napoleons,
rifled and smooth bores, all shapes and sizes; most of them bear the
letters U.S., showing that they have changed masters.

The colours of the regiments differ from the blue battle-flags I saw
with Bragg's army. They are generally red, with a blue St Andrew's Cross
showing the stars. This pattern is said to have been invented by General
Joseph Johnston, as not so liable to be mistaken for the Yankee flag.
The new Confederate flag has evidently been adopted from this
battle-flag, as it is called. Most of the colours in this Division bear
the names Manassas, Fredericksburg, Seven Pines, Harper's Ferry,
Chancellorsville, &c.

I saw no stragglers during the time I was with Pender's Division; but
although the Virginian army certainly does get over a deal of ground,
yet they move at a slow dragging pace, and are evidently not good
marchers naturally. As Mr Norris observed to me, "Before this war we
were a lazy set of devils; our niggers worked for us, and none of us
ever dreamt of walking, though we all rode a great deal."

We reached Berryville (eleven miles) at 9 A.M. The headquarters of
General Lee were a few hundred yards beyond this place. Just before
getting there, I saw a general officer of handsome appearance, who must,
I knew from description, be the Commander-in-chief; but as he was
evidently engaged I did not join him, although I gave my letter of
introduction to one of his Staff. Shortly afterwards, I presented myself
to Mr Lawley, with whom I became immediately great friends.[52] He
introduced me to General Chilton, the Adjutant-General of the army, to
Colonel Cole, the Quartermaster-General, to Major Taylor, Captain
Venables, and other officers of General Lee's Staff; and he suggested,
as the headquarters were so busy and crowded, that he and I should ride
to Winchester at once, and afterwards ask for hospitality from the less
busy Staff of General Longstreet. I was also introduced to Captain
Schreibert of the Prussian army, who is a guest sometimes of General Lee
and sometimes of General Stuart of the cavalry. He had been present at
one of the late severe cavalry skirmishes, which have been of constant
occurrence since the sudden advance of this army. This advance has been
so admirably timed as to allow of the capture of Winchester, with its
Yankee garrison and stores, and at the same time of the seizure of the
gaps of the Blue Ridge range. All the officers were speaking with regret
of the severe wound received in this skirmish by Major Von Borke,
another Prussian, but now in the Confederate States service, and
aide-de-camp to Jeb Stuart.

After eating some breakfast, Lawley and I rode ten miles into
Winchester. My horse, minus his foreshoes, showed signs of great
fatigue, but we struggled into Winchester at 5 P.M., where I was
fortunate enough to procure shoes for the horse, and, by Lawley's
introduction, admirable quarters for both of us at the house of the
hospitable Mrs ----, with whom he had lodged seven months before, and
who was charmed to see him. Her two nieces, who are as agreeable as they
are good-looking, gave us a miserable picture of the three captivities
they have experienced under the Federal commanders Banks, Shields, and
Milroy.

The unfortunate town of Winchester seems to have been made a regular
shuttlecock of by the contending armies. Stonewall Jackson rescued it
once, and last Sunday week his successor, General Ewell, drove out
Milroy. The name of Milroy is always associated with that of Butler, and
his rule in Winchester seems to have been somewhat similar to that of
his illustrious rival in New Orleans. Should either of these two
individuals fall alive into the hands of the Confederates, I imagine
that Jeff Davis himself would be unable to save their lives, even if he
were disposed to do so.

Before leaving Richmond, I heard every one expressing regret that
Milroy should have escaped, as the recapture of Winchester seemed to be
incomplete without him. More than 4000 of his men were taken in the two
forts which overlook the town, and which were carried by assault by a
Louisianian brigade with trifling loss. The joy of the unfortunate
inhabitants may easily be conceived at this sudden and unexpected relief
from their last captivity, which had lasted six months. During the whole
of this time they could not legally buy an article of provisions without
taking the oath of allegiance, which they magnanimously refused to do.
They were unable to hear a word of their male relations or friends, who
were all in the Southern army; they were shut up in their houses after 8
P.M., and sometimes deprived of light; part of our kind entertainer's
house was forcibly occupied by a vulgar, ignorant, and low-born Federal
officer, _ci-devant_ driver of a street car; and they were constantly
subjected to the most humiliating insults, on pretence of searching the
house for arms, documents, &c. To my surprise, however, these ladies
spoke of the enemy with less violence and rancour than almost any other
ladies I had met with during my travels through the whole Southern
Confederacy. When I told them so, they replied that they who had seen
many men shot down in the streets before their own eyes knew what they
were talking about, which other and more excited Southern women did not.

Ewell's Division is in front and across the Potomac; and before I left
headquarters this morning, I saw Longstreet's corps beginning to follow
in the same direction.

[51] Indian corn.

[52] The Honourable F. Lawley, author of the admirable letters from the
Southern States which appear in the 'Times' newspaper.

       *       *       *       *       *

_23d June_ (Tuesday).--Lawley and I went to inspect the site of Mr
Mason's (the Southern Commissioner in London) once pretty house--a
melancholy scene. It had been charmingly situated near the outskirts of
the town, and by all accounts must have been a delightful little place.
When Lawley saw it seven months ago, it was then only a ruin; but since
that time Northern vengeance (as directed by General Milroy) has
satiated itself by destroying almost the very foundations of the house
of this arch-traitor, as they call him. Literally not one stone remains
standing upon another; and the _débris_ seems to have been carted away,
for there is now a big hole where the principal part of the house stood.
Troops have evidently been encamped upon the ground, which was strewed
with fragments of Yankee clothing, accoutrements, &c.

I understand that Winchester used to be a most agreeable little town,
and its society extremely pleasant. Many of its houses are now destroyed
or converted into hospitals; the rest look miserable and dilapidated.
Its female inhabitants (for the able-bodied males are all absent in the
army) are familiar with the bloody realities of war. As many as 5000
wounded have been accommodated here at one time. All the ladies are
accustomed to the bursting of shells and the sight of fighting, and all
are turned into hospital nurses or cooks.

From the utter impossibility of procuring corn, I was forced to take
the horses out grazing a mile beyond the town for four hours in the
morning and two in the afternoon. As one mustn't lose sight of them for
a moment, this occupied me all day, while Lawley wrote in the house. In
the evening we went to visit two wounded officers in Mrs ----'s house, a
major and a captain in the Louisianian Brigade which stormed the forts
last Sunday week. I am afraid the captain will die. Both are shot
through the body, but are cheery. They served under Stonewall Jackson
until his death, and they venerate his name, though they both agree that
he has got an efficient successor in Ewell, his former companion in
arms; and they confirmed a great deal of what General Johnston had told
me as to Jackson having been so much indebted to Ewell for several of
his victories. They gave us an animated account of the spirits and
feeling of the army. At no period of the war, they say, have the men
been so well equipped, so well clothed, so eager for a fight, or so
confident of success--a very different state of affairs from that which
characterised the Maryland invasion of last year, when half of the army
were barefooted stragglers, and many of the remainder unwilling and
reluctant to cross the Potomac.

Miss ---- told me to-day that dancing and horse-racing are forbidden by
the Episcopal Church in this part of Virginia.

       *       *       *       *       *

_24th June_ (Wednesday).--Lawley being in weak health, we determined to
spend another day with our kind friends in Winchester. I took the horses
out again for six hours to graze, and made acquaintance with two
Irishmen, who gave me some cut grass and salt for the horses. One of
these men had served and had been wounded in the Southern army. I
remarked to him that he must have killed lots of his own countrymen; to
which he replied, "Oh yes, but faix they must all take it as it comes."
I have always observed that Southern Irishmen make excellent "Rebs," and
have no sort of scruple in killing as many of their Northern brethren as
they possibly can.

I saw to-day many new Yankee graves, which the deaths among the captives
are constantly increasing. Wooden head-posts are put at each grave, on
which is written, "An Unknown Soldier, U.S.A. Died of wounds received
upon the field of battle, June 21, 22, or 23, 1863."

A sentry stopped me to-day as I was going out of town, and when I showed
him my pass from General Chilton, he replied with great firmness, but
with perfect courtesy, "I'm extremely sorry, sir; but if you were the
Secretary of War, or Jeff Davis himself, you couldn't pass without a
passport from the Provost-Marshal."

       *       *       *       *       *

_25th June_ (Thursday).--We took leave of Mrs ----and her hospitable
family, and started at 10 A.M. to overtake Generals Lee and Longstreet,
who were supposed to be crossing the Potomac at Williamsport. Before we
had got more than a few miles on our way, we began to meet horses and
oxen, the first fruits of Ewell's advance into Pennsylvania. The weather
was cool and showery, and all went swimmingly for the first fourteen
miles, when we caught up M'Laws's division, which belongs to
Longstreet's corps. As my horse about this time began to show signs of
fatigue, and as Lawley's pickaxed most alarmingly, we turned them into
some clover to graze, whilst we watched two brigades pass along the
road. They were commanded, I think, by Semmes and Barksdale,[53] and
were composed of Georgians, Mississippians, and South Carolinians. They
marched very well, and there was no attempt at straggling; quite a
different state of things from Johnston's men in Mississippi. All were
well shod and efficiently clothed. In rear of each regiment were from
twenty to thirty negro slaves, and a certain number of unarmed men
carrying stretchers and wearing in their hats the red badges of the
ambulance corps;--this is an excellent institution, for it prevents
unwounded men falling out on pretence of taking wounded to the rear. The
knapsacks of the men still bear the names of the Massachusetts, Vermont,
New Jersey, or other regiments to which they originally belonged. There
were about twenty waggons to each brigade, most of which were marked
U.S., and each of these brigades was about 2800 strong. There are four
brigades in M'Laws's division. All the men seemed in the highest
spirits, and were cheering and yelling most vociferously.

We reached Martinsburg (twenty-two miles) at 6 P.M., by which time my
horse nearly broke down, and I was forced to get off and walk.
Martinsburg and this part of Virginia are supposed to be more Unionist
than Southern; however, many of the women went through the form of
cheering M'Laws's division as it passed. I daresay they would perform
the same ceremony in honour of the Yankees to-morrow.

Three miles beyond Martinsburg we were forced by the state of our horses
to insist upon receiving the unwilling hospitality of a very surly
native, who was evidently Unionist in his proclivities. We were obliged
to turn our horses into a field to graze during the night. This was most
dangerous, for the Confederate soldier, in spite of his many virtues,
is, as a rule, the most incorrigible horse-stealer in the world.

[53] Barksdale was killed, and Semmes mortally wounded, at the battle of
Gettysburg.

       *       *       *       *       *

_26th June_ (Friday).--I got up a little before daylight, and,
notwithstanding the drenching rain, I secured our horses, which, to my
intense relief, were present. But my horse showed a back rapidly getting
worse, and both looked "mean" to a degree. Lawley being ill, he declined
starting in the rain, and our host became more and more surly when we
stated our intention of remaining with him. However, the sight of _real
gold_ instead of Confederate paper, or even greenbacks, soothed him
wonderfully, and he furnished us with some breakfast. All this time
M'Laws's division was passing the door; but so strict was the
discipline, that the only man who loafed in was immediately pounced upon
and carried away captive. At 2 P.M., the weather having become a little
clearer, we made a start, but under very unpromising circumstances.
Lawley was so ill that he could hardly ride; his horse was most unsafe,
and had cast a shoe;--my animal was in such a miserable state that I had
not the inhumanity to ride him;--but, by the assistance of his tail, I
managed to struggle through the deep mud and wet. We soon became
entangled with M'Laws's division, and reached the Potomac, a distance of
nine miles and a half, at 5 P.M.; the river is both wide and deep, and
in fording it (for which purpose I was obliged to mount) we couldn't
keep our legs out of the water. The little town of Williamsport is on
the opposite bank of the river, and we were now in Maryland. We had the
mortification to learn that Generals Lee and Longstreet had quitted
Williamsport this morning at 11 o'clock, and were therefore obliged to
toil on to Hagerstown, six miles farther. This latter place is evidently
by no means Rebel in its sentiments, for all the houses were shut up,
and many apparently abandoned. The few natives that were about stared at
the troops with sulky indifference.

After passing through Hagerstown, we could obtain no certain information
of the whereabouts of the two generals, nor could we get any willing
hospitality from any one; but at 9 P.M., our horses being quite
exhausted, we forced ourselves into the house of a Dutchman, who became
a little more civil at the sight of gold, although the assurance that we
were English travellers, and not Rebels, had produced no effect. I had
walked to-day, in mud and rain, seventeen miles, and I dared not take
off my solitary pair of boots, because I knew I should never get them on
again.

       *       *       *       *       *

_27th June_ (Saturday).--Lawley was so ill this morning that he
couldn't possibly ride; I therefore mounted his horse a little before
daybreak, and started in search of the generals. After riding eight
miles, I came up with General Longstreet, at 6.30 A.M., and was only
just in time, as he was on the point of moving. Both he and his Staff
were most kind, when I introduced myself and stated my difficulties; he
arranged that an ambulance should fetch Lawley, and he immediately
invited me to join his mess during the campaign; he told me (which I did
not know) that we were now in Pennsylvania, the enemy's
country--Maryland being only ten miles broad at this point; he declared
that Bushwhackers exist in the woods, who shoot unsuspecting stragglers,
and it would therefore be unsafe that Lawley and I should travel alone.
General Longstreet is an Alabamian--a thickset, determined-looking man,
forty-three years of age: he was an infantry major in the old army, and
now commands the 1st _corps d'armée_: he is never far from General Lee,
who relies very much upon his judgment. By the soldiers he is invariably
spoken of as "the best fighter in the whole army." Whilst speaking of
entering upon the enemy's soil, he said to me that although it might be
fair, in just retaliation, _to apply the torch_, yet that doing so would
demoralise the army and ruin its now excellent discipline. Private
property is therefore to be rigidly protected.

[Illustration: LIEUT.-GENERAL JAMES LONGSTREET.]

At 7 A.M. I returned with an orderly (or courier, as they are called)
to the farmhouse in which I had left Lawley; and after seeing all
arranged satisfactorily about the ambulance, I rode slowly on to rejoin
General Longstreet, near Chambersburg, which is a Pennsylvanian town,
distant twenty-two miles from Hagerstown. I was with M'Laws's division,
and observed that the moment they entered Pennsylvania the troops opened
the fences and enlarged the road about twenty yards on each side, which
enabled the waggons and themselves to proceed together: this is the only
damage I saw done by the Confederates. This part of Pennsylvania is very
flourishing, highly cultivated, and, in comparison with the Southern
States, thickly peopled. But all the cattle and horses having been
seized by Ewell, farm-labour had now come to a complete stand-still.

In passing through Greencastle we found all the houses and windows shut
up, the natives in their Sunday clothes standing at their doors
regarding the troops in a very unfriendly manner. I saw no straggling
into the houses, nor were any of the inhabitants disturbed or annoyed by
the soldiers. Sentries were placed at the doors of many of the best
houses, to prevent any officer or soldier from getting in on any
pretence.

I entered Chambersburg at 6 P.M. This is a town of some size and
importance: all its houses were shut up; but the natives were in the
streets, or at the upper windows, looking in a scowling and bewildered
manner at the Confederate troops, who were marching gaily past to the
tune of Dixie's Land. The women (many of whom were pretty and well
dressed) were particularly sour and disagreeable in their remarks. I
heard one of them say, "Look at Pharaoh's army going to the Red Sea."
Others were pointing and laughing at Hood's ragged Jacks, who were
passing at the time. This division, well known for its fighting
qualities, is composed of Texans, Alabamians, and Arkansians, and they
certainly are a queer lot to look at. They carry less than any other
troops; many of them have only got an old piece of carpet or rug as
baggage; many have discarded their shoes in the mud; all are ragged and
dirty, but full of good-humour and confidence in themselves and in their
general, Hood. They answered the numerous taunts of the Chambersburg
ladies with cheers and laughter. One female had seen fit to adorn her
ample bosom with a huge Yankee flag, and she stood at the door of her
house, her countenance expressing the greatest contempt for the
barefooted Rebs; several companies passed her without taking any notice;
but at length a Texan gravely remarked, "Take care, madam, for Hood's
boys are great at storming breastworks when the Yankee colours is on
them." After this speech the patriotic lady beat a precipitate retreat.

Sentries were placed at the doors of all the principal houses, and the
town was cleared of all but the military passing through or on duty.
Some of the troops marched straight through the town, and bivouacked on
the Carlisle road. Others turned off to the right, and occupied the
Gettysburg turnpike. I found Generals Lee and Longstreet encamped on the
latter road, three-quarters of a mile from the town.

General Longstreet and his Staff at once received me into their mess,
and I was introduced to Major Fairfax, Major Latrobe, and Captain Rogers
of his personal Staff; also to Major Moses, the Chief Commissary, whose
tent I am to share. He is the most jovial, amusing, and clever son of
Israel I ever had the good fortune to meet. The other officers on
Longstreet's Headquarter Staff are Colonel Sorrell, Lieutenant-Colonel
Manning (ordnance officer), Major Walton, Captain Goree, and Major
Clark, all excellent good fellows, and most hospitable.[54]

Lawley is to live with three doctors on the Headquarter Staff: their
names are Cullen, Barksdale, and Maury; they form a jolly trio, and live
much more luxuriously than their generals.

Major Moses tells me that his orders are to open the stores in
Chambersburg by force, and seize all that is wanted for the army in a
regular and official manner, giving in return its value in Confederate
money on a receipt. The storekeepers have doubtless sent away their most
valuable goods on the approach of the Confederate army. Much also has
been already seized by Ewell, who passed through nearly a week ago. But
Moses was much elated at having already discovered a large supply of
excellent felt hats, hidden away in a cellar, which he "annexed" at
once.

I was told this evening the numbers which have crossed the Potomac, and
also the number of pieces of artillery. There is a large train of
ammunition; for if the army advances any deeper into the enemy's
country, General Lee cannot expect to keep his communications open to
the rear; and as the Staff officers say, "In every battle we fight we
must capture as much ammunition as we use." This necessity, however,
does not seem to disturb them, as it has hitherto been their regular
style of doing business.

Ewell, after the capture of Winchester, had advanced rapidly into
Pennsylvania, and has already sent back great quantities of horses,
mules, waggons, beeves, and other necessaries; he is now at or beyond
Carlisle, laying the country under contribution, and making Pennsylvania
support the war, instead of poor, used-up, and worn-out Virginia. The
corps of Generals A.P. Hill and Longstreet are now near this place, all
full of confidence and in high spirits.

[54] Having lived at the Headquarters of all the principal Confederate
Generals, I am able to affirm that the relation between their Staffs and
themselves, and the way the duty is carried on, is very similar to what
it is in the British army. All the Generals--Johnston, Bragg, Polk,
Hardee, Longstreet, and Lee--are thorough soldiers, and their Staffs are
composed of gentlemen of position and education, who have now been
trained into excellent and zealous Staff officers.

       *       *       *       *       *

_28th June_ (Sunday).--No officer or soldier under the rank of a general
is allowed into Chambersburg without a special order from General Lee,
which he is very chary of giving; and I hear of officers of rank being
refused this pass.

Moses proceeded into town at 11 A.M., with an official requisition for
three days' rations for the whole army in this neighbourhood. These
rations he is to seize by force, if not voluntarily supplied.

I was introduced to General Hood this morning; he is a tall, thin,
wiry-looking man, with a grave face and a light-coloured beard,
thirty-three years old, and is accounted one of the best and most
promising officers in the army. By his Texan and Alabamian troops he is
adored; he formerly commanded the Texan Brigade, but has now been
promoted to the command of a division. His troops are accused of being a
wild set, and difficult to manage; and it is the great object of the
chiefs to check their innate plundering propensities by every means in
their power.

I went into Chambersburg at noon, and found Lawley ensconced in the
Franklin Hotel. Both he and I had much difficulty in getting into that
establishment--the doors being locked, and only opened with the greatest
caution. Lawley had had a most painful journey in the ambulance
yesterday, and was much exhausted. No one in the hotel would take the
slightest notice of him, and all scowled at me in a most disagreeable
manner. Half-a-dozen Pennsylvanian viragos surrounded and assailed me
with their united tongues to a deafening degree. Nor would they believe
me when I told them I was an English spectator and a noncombatant: they
said I must be either a Rebel or a Yankee--by which expression I learned
for the first time that the term Yankee is as much used as a reproach in
Pennsylvania as in the South. The sight of gold, which I exchanged for
their greenbacks, brought about a change, and by degrees they became
quite affable. They seemed very ignorant, and confused Texans with
Mexicans.

After leaving Lawley pretty comfortable, I walked about the town and
witnessed the pressing operations of Moses and his myrmidons. Neither
the Mayor nor the corporation were to be found anywhere, nor were the
keys of the principal stores forthcoming until Moses began to apply the
axe. The citizens were lolling about the streets in a listless manner,
and showing no great signs of discontent. They had left to their women
the task of resisting the commissaries--a duty which they were fully
competent to perform. No soldiers but those on duty were visible in the
streets.

In the evening I called again to see Lawley, and found in his room an
Austrian officer, in the full uniform of the Hungarian hussars. He had
got a year's leave of absence, and has just succeeded in crossing the
Potomac, though not without much trouble and difficulty. When he stated
his intention of wearing his uniform, I explained to him the invariable
custom of the Confederate soldiers, of never allowing the smallest
peculiarity of dress or appearance to pass without a torrent of jokes,
which, however good-humoured, ended in becoming rather monotonous.

I returned to camp at 6 P.M. Major Moses did not get back till very
late, much depressed at the ill-success of his mission. He had searched
all day most indefatigably, and had endured much contumely from the
Union ladies, who called him "a thievish little rebel scoundrel," and
other opprobrious epithets. But this did not annoy him so much as the
manner in which everything he wanted had been sent away or hidden in
private houses, which he was not allowed by General Lee's order to
search. He had only managed to secure a quantity of molasses, sugar, and
whisky. Poor Moses was thoroughly exhausted; but he endured the chaff of
his brother officers with much good-humour, and they made him
continually repeat the different names he had been called. He said that
at first the women refused his Confederate "trash" with great scorn, but
they ended in being very particular about the odd cents.

       *       *       *       *       *

_29th June_ (Monday).--We are still at Chambersburg. Lee has issued a
remarkably good order on non-retaliation, which is generally well
received; but I have heard of complaints from fire-eaters, who want
vengeance for their wrongs; and when one considers the numbers of
officers and soldiers with this army who have been totally ruined by the
devastations of Northern troops, one cannot be much surprised at this
feeling.

I went into Chambersburg again, and witnessed the singularly good
behaviour of the troops towards the citizens. I heard soldiers saying to
one another, that they did not like being in a town in which they were
very naturally detested. To any one who has seen _as I have_ the ravages
of the Northern troops in Southern towns, this forbearance seems most
commendable and surprising. Yet these Pennsylvanian Dutch[55] don't seem
the least thankful, and really appear to be unaware that their own
troops have been for two years treating Southern towns with ten times
more harshness. They are the most unpatriotic people I ever saw, and
openly state that they don't care which side wins provided they are left
alone. They abuse Lincoln tremendously.

Of course, in such a large army as this there must be many instances of
bad characters, who are always ready to plunder and pillage whenever
they can do so without being caught: the stragglers, also, who remain
behind when the army has left, will doubtless do much harm. It is
impossible to prevent this; but everything that can be done is done to
protect private property and non-combatants, and I can say, from my own
observation, with wonderful success. I hear instances, however, in which
soldiers meeting well-dressed citizens have made a "long arm" and
changed hats, much to the disgust of the latter, who are still more
annoyed when an exchange of boots is also proposed: their superfine
broadcloth is never in any danger.

General Longstreet is generally a particularly taciturn man; but this
evening he and I had a long talk about Texas, where he had been
quartered a long time. He remembered many people whom I had met quite
well, and was much amused by the description of my travels through that
country. I complimented him upon the manner in which the Confederate
sentries do their duty, and said they were quite as strict as, and ten
times more polite than, regular soldiers. He replied, laughing, that a
sentry, after refusing you leave to enter a camp, might very likely, if
properly asked, show you another way in, by which you might avoid
meeting a sentry at all.

I saw General Pendleton and General Pickett to-day. Pendleton is Chief
of Artillery to the army, and was a West Pointer; but in more peaceable
times he fills the post of Episcopal clergyman in Lexington, Virginia.
Unlike General Polk, he unites the military and clerical professions
together, and continues to preach whenever he gets a chance. On these
occasions he wears a surplice over his uniform.

General Pickett commands one of the divisions in Longstreet's
corps.[56] He wears his hair in long ringlets, and is altogether rather
a desperate-looking character. He is the officer who, as Captain Pickett
of the U.S. army, figured in the difficulty between the British and
United States in the San Juan Island affair, under General Harney, four
or five years ago.

[55] This part of Pennsylvania is much peopled with the descendants of
Germans, who speak an unintelligible language.

[56] M'Laws, Hood, and Pickett are the three divisional commanders or
major-generals in Longstreet's _corps d'armée_.

[Illustration: GENERAL ROBERT E. LEE.]

       *       *       *       *       *

_30th June_ (Tuesday).--This morning, before marching from
Chambersburg, General Longstreet introduced me to the Commander-in-Chief.
General Lee is, almost without exception, the handsomest man of his
age I ever saw. He is fifty-six years old, tall, broad-shouldered,
very well made, well set up--a thorough soldier in appearance; and
his manners are most courteous and full of dignity. He is a
perfect gentleman in every respect. I imagine no man has so few
enemies, or is so universally esteemed. Throughout the South, all agree
in pronouncing him to be as near perfection as a man can be. He has none
of the small vices, such as smoking, drinking, chewing, or swearing, and
his bitterest enemy never accused him of any of the greater ones. He
generally wears a well-worn long grey jacket, a high black felt hat, and
blue trousers tucked into his Wellington boots. I never saw him carry
arms;[57] and the only mark of his military rank are the three stars on
his collar. He rides a handsome horse, which is extremely well groomed.
He himself is very neat in his dress and person, and in the most arduous
marches he always looks smart and clean.[58]

In the old army he was always considered one of its best officers; and
at the outbreak of these troubles, he was Lieutenant-Colonel of the 2d
cavalry. He was a rich man, but his fine estate was one of the first to
fall into the enemy's hands. I believe he has never slept in a house
since he has commanded the Virginian army, and he invariably declines
all offers of hospitality, for fear the person offering it may
afterwards get into trouble for having sheltered the Rebel General. The
relations between him and Longstreet are quite touching--they are almost
always together. Longstreet's corps complain of this sometimes, as they
say that they seldom get a chance of detached service, which falls to
the lot of Ewell. It is impossible to please Longstreet more than by
praising Lee. I believe these two Generals to be as little ambitious and
as thoroughly unselfish as any men in the world. Both long for a
successful termination of the war, in order that they may retire into
obscurity. Stonewall Jackson (until his death the third in command of
their army) was just such another simple-minded servant of his country.
It is understood that General Lee is a religious man, though not so
demonstrative in that respect as Jackson; and, unlike his late brother
in arms, he is a member of the Church of England. His only faults, so
far as I can learn, arise from his excessive amiability.

Some Texan soldiers were sent this morning into Chambersburg to destroy
a number of barrels of excellent whisky, which could not be carried
away. This was a pretty good trial for their discipline, and they did
think it rather hard lines that the only time they had been allowed into
the enemy's town was for the purpose of destroying their beloved whisky.
However, they did their duty like good soldiers.

We marched six miles on the road towards Gettysburg, and encamped at a
village called (I think) Greenwood. I rode Lawley's old horse, he and
the Austrian using the doctor's ambulance. In the evening General
Longstreet told me that he had just received intelligence that Hooker
had been disrated, and that Meade was appointed in his place. Of course
he knew both of them in the old army, and he says that Meade is an
honourable and respectable man, though not, perhaps, so bold as Hooker.

I had a long talk with many officers about the approaching battle,
which evidently cannot now be delayed long, and will take place on this
road instead of in the direction of Harrisburg, as we had supposed.
Ewell, who has laid York as well as Carlisle under contribution, has
been ordered to reunite. Every one, of course, speaks with confidence. I
remarked that it would be a good thing for them if on this occasion they
had cavalry to follow up the broken infantry in the event of their
succeeding in beating them. But to my surprise they all spoke of their
cavalry as not efficient for that purpose. In fact, Stuart's men, though
excellent at making raids, capturing waggons and stores, and cutting off
communications, seem to have no idea of charging infantry under any
circumstances. Unlike the cavalry with Bragg's army, they wear swords,
but seem to have little idea of using them--they hanker after their
carbines and revolvers. They constantly ride with their swords between
their left leg and the saddle, which has a very funny appearance; but
their horses are generally good, and they ride well. The infantry and
artillery of this army don't seem to respect the cavalry very much, and
often jeer at them.

I was forced to abandon my horse here, as he was now lame in three legs,
besides having a very sore back.

[57] I never saw either Lee or Longstreet carry arms. A.P. Hill
generally wears a sword.

[58] I observed this during the three days' fighting at Gettysburg, and
in the retreat afterwards, when every one else looked, and was,
extremely dirty.

       *       *       *       *       *

_1st July_ (Wednesday).--We did not leave our camp till noon, as nearly
all General Hill's corps had to pass our quarters on its march towards
Gettysburg. One division of Ewell's also had to join in a little beyond
Greenwood, and Longstreet's corps had to bring up the rear. During the
morning I made the acquaintance of Colonel Walton, who used to command
the well-known Washington Artillery, but he is now chief of artillery to
Longstreet's _corps d'armée_; he is a big man, _ci-devant_ auctioneer in
New Orleans, and I understand he pines to return to his hammer.

Soon after starting we got into a pass in the South mountain, a
continuation, I believe, of the Blue Ridge range, which is broken by the
Potomac at Harper's Ferry. The scenery through the pass is very fine.
The first troops, alongside of whom we rode, belonged to Johnson's
division of Ewell's corps. Among them I saw, for the first time, the
celebrated "Stonewall" Brigade, formerly commanded by Jackson. In
appearance the men differ little from other Confederate soldiers,
except, perhaps, that the brigade contains more elderly men and fewer
boys. All (except, I think, one regiment) are Virginians. As they have
nearly always been on detached duty, few of them knew General
Longstreet, except by reputation. Numbers of them asked me whether the
General in front was Longstreet; and when I answered in the affirmative,
many would run on a hundred yards in order to take a good look at him.
This I take to be an immense compliment from any soldier on a long
march.

At 2 P.M. firing became distinctly audible in our front, but although it
increased as we progressed, it did not seem to be very heavy. A spy who
was with us insisted upon there being "a pretty tidy bunch of
_bluebellies_ in or near Gettysburg," and he declared that he was in
their society three days ago.

After passing Johnson's division, we came up to a Florida Brigade, which
is now in Hill's corps; but as it had formerly served under Longstreet,
the men knew him well. Some of them (after the General had passed)
called out to their comrades, "Look out for work now, boys, for here's
the old bulldog again."

At 3 P.M. we began to meet wounded men coming to the rear, and the
number of these soon increased most rapidly, some hobbling alone, others
on stretchers carried by the ambulance corps, and others in the
ambulance waggons; many of the latter were stripped nearly naked, and
displayed very bad wounds. This spectacle, so revolting to a person
unaccustomed to such sights, produced no impression whatever upon the
advancing troops, who certainly go under fire with the most perfect
nonchalance: they show no enthusiasm or excitement, but the most
complete indifference. This is the effect of two years' almost
uninterrupted fighting.

We now began to meet Yankee prisoners coming to the rear in considerable
numbers: many of them were wounded, but they seemed already to be on
excellent terms with their captors, with whom they had commenced
swapping canteens, tobacco, &c. Among them was a Pennsylvanian colonel,
a miserable object from a wound in his face. In answer to a question, I
heard one of them remark, with a laugh, "We're pretty nigh whipped
already." We next came to a Confederate soldier carrying a Yankee
colour, belonging, I think, to a Pennsylvanian regiment, which he told
us he had just captured.

At 4.30 P.M. we came in sight of Gettysburg and joined General Lee and
General Hill, who were on the top of one of the ridges which form the
peculiar feature of the country round Gettysburg. We could see the enemy
retreating up one of the opposite ridges, pursued by the Confederates
with loud yells. The position into which the enemy had been driven was
evidently a strong one. His right appeared to rest on a cemetery, on the
top of a high ridge to the right of Gettysburg, as we looked at it.

General Hill now came up and told me he had been very unwell all day,
and in fact he looks very delicate. He said he had had two of his
divisions engaged, and had driven the enemy four miles into his present
position, capturing a great many prisoners, some cannon, and some
colours; he said, however, that the Yankees had fought with a
determination unusual to them. He pointed out a railway cutting, in
which they had made a good stand; also, a field in the centre of which
he had seen a man plant the regimental colour, round which the regiment
had fought for some time with much obstinacy, and when at last it was
obliged to retreat, the colour-bearer retired last of all, turning round
every now and then to shake his fist at the advancing rebels. General
Hill said he felt quite sorry when he saw this gallant Yankee meet his
doom.

General Ewell had come up at 3.30, on the enemy's right (with part of
his corps), and completed his discomfiture. General Reynolds, one of the
best Yankee generals, was reported killed. Whilst we were talking, a
message arrived from General Ewell, requesting Hill to press the enemy
in the front, while he performed the same operation on his right. The
pressure was accordingly applied in a mild degree, but the enemy were
too strongly posted, and it was too late in the evening for a regular
attack. The town of Gettysburg was now occupied by Ewell, and was full
of Yankee dead and wounded. I climbed up a tree in the most commanding
place I could find, and could form a pretty good general idea of the
enemy's position, although, the tops of the ridges being covered with
pine-woods, it was very difficult to see anything of the troops
concealed in them. The firing ceased about dark, at which time I rode
back with General Longstreet and his Staff to his headquarters at
Cashtown, a little village eight miles from Gettysburg. At that time
troops were pouring along the road, and were being marched towards the
position they are to occupy to-morrow.

In the fight to-day nearly 6000 prisoners had been taken, and 10 guns.
About 20,000 men must have been on the field on the Confederate side.
The enemy had two _corps d'armée_ engaged. All the prisoners belong, I
think, to the 1st and 11th corps. This day's work is called a "brisk
little scurry," and all anticipate a "big battle" to-morrow.

I observed that the artillerymen in charge of the horses dig themselves
little holes like graves, throwing up the earth at the upper end. They
ensconce themselves in these holes when under fire.

At supper this evening, General Longstreet spoke of the enemy's position
as being "very formidable." He also said that they would doubtless
intrench themselves strongly during the night.[59] The Staff officers
spoke of the battle as a certainty, and the universal feeling in the
army was one of profound contempt for an enemy whom they have beaten so
constantly, and under so many disadvantages.

[59] I have the best reason for supposing that the fight came off
prematurely, and that neither Lee nor Longstreet intended that it should
have begun that day. I also think that their plans were deranged by the
events of the first.

       *       *       *       *       *

_2d July_ (Thursday).--We all got up at 3.30 A.M., and breakfasted a
little before daylight. Lawley insisted on riding, notwithstanding his
illness. Captain ---- and I were in a dilemma for horses; but I was
accommodated by Major Clark (of this Staff), whilst the stout Austrian
was mounted by Major Walton. The Austrian, in spite of the early hour,
had shaved his cheeks and _ciréd_ his mustaches as beautifully as if he
was on parade at Vienna.

Colonel Sorrell, the Austrian, and I arrived at 5 A.M. at the same
commanding position we were on yesterday, and I climbed up a tree in
company with Captain Schreibert of the Prussian army. Just below us were
seated Generals Lee, Hill, Longstreet, and Hood, in consultation--the
two latter assisting their deliberations by the truly American custom of
_whittling_ sticks. General Heth was also present; he was wounded in the
head yesterday, and although not allowed to command his brigade, he
insists upon coming to the field.

At 7 A.M. I rode over part of the ground with General Longstreet, and
saw him disposing M'Laws's division for to-day's fight. The enemy
occupied a series of high ridges, the tops of which were covered with
trees, but the intervening valleys between their ridges and ours were
mostly open, and partly under cultivation. The cemetery was on their
right, and their left appeared to rest upon a high rocky hill. The
enemy's forces, which were now supposed to comprise nearly the whole
Potomac army, were concentrated into a space apparently not more than a
couple of miles in length. The Confederates enclosed them in a sort of
semicircle, and the extreme extent of our position must have been from
five to six miles at least. Ewell was on our left; his headquarters in a
church (with a high cupola) at Gettysburg; Hill in the centre; and
Longstreet on the right. Our ridges were also covered with pine-woods at
the tops, and generally on the rear slopes. The artillery of both sides
confronted each other at the edges of these belts of trees, the troops
being completely hidden. The enemy was evidently intrenched, but the
Southerns had not broken ground at all. A dead silence reigned till 4.45
P.M., and no one would have imagined that such masses of men and such a
powerful artillery were about to commence the work of destruction at
that hour.

Only two divisions of Longstreet were present to-day--viz., M'Laws's and
Hood's--Pickett being still in the rear. As the whole morning was
evidently to be occupied in disposing the troops for the attack, I rode
to the extreme right with Colonel Manning and Major Walton, where we ate
quantities of cherries, and got a feed of corn for our horses. We also
bathed in a small stream, but not without some trepidation on my part,
for we were almost beyond the lines, and were exposed to the enemy's
cavalry.

At 1 P.M. I met a quantity of Yankee prisoners who had been picked up
straggling. They told me they belonged to Sickles's corps (3d, I think),
and had arrived from Emmetsburg during the night. About this time
skirmishing began along part of the line, but not heavily.

At 2 P.M. General Longstreet advised me, if I wished to have a good
view of the battle, to return to my tree of yesterday. I did so, and
remained there with Lawley and Captain Schreibert during the rest of the
afternoon. But until 4.45 P.M. all was profoundly still, and we began to
doubt whether a fight was coming off to-day at all. At that time,
however, Longstreet suddenly commenced a heavy cannonade on the right.
Ewell immediately took it up on the left. The enemy replied with at
least equal fury, and in a few moments the firing along the whole line
was as heavy as it is possible to conceive. A dense smoke arose for six
miles; there was little wind to drive it away, and the air seemed full
of shells--each of which appeared to have a different style of going,
and to make a different noise from the others. The ordnance on both
sides is of a very varied description. Every now and then a caisson
would blow up--if a Federal one, a Confederate yell would immediately
follow. The Southern troops, when charging, or to express their delight,
always yell in a manner peculiar to themselves. The Yankee cheer is much
more like ours; but the Confederate officers declare that the rebel yell
has a particular merit, and always produces a salutary and useful effect
upon their adversaries. A corps is sometimes spoken of as a "good
yelling regiment."

So soon as the firing began, General Lee joined Hill just below our
tree, and he remained there nearly all the time, looking through his
field-glass--sometimes talking to Hill and sometimes to Colonel Long of
his Staff. But generally he sat quite alone on the stump of a tree. What
I remarked especially was, that during the whole time the firing
continued, he only sent one message, and only received one report. It is
evidently his system to arrange the plan thoroughly with the three corps
commanders, and then leave to them the duty of modifying and carrying it
out to the best of their abilities.

When the cannonade was at its height, a Confederate band of music,
between the cemetery and ourselves, began to play polkas and waltzes,
which sounded very curious, accompanied by the hissing and bursting of
the shells.

At 5.45 all became comparatively quiet on our left and in the cemetery;
but volleys of musketry on the right told us that Longstreet's infantry
were advancing, and the onward progress of the smoke showed that he was
progressing favourably; but about 6.30 there seemed to be a check, and
even a slight retrograde movement. Soon after 7 General Lee got a report
by signal from Longstreet to say "_we are doing well_." A little before
dark the firing dropped off in every direction, and soon ceased
altogether. We then received intelligence that Longstreet had carried
everything before him for some time, capturing several batteries, and
driving the enemy from his positions; but when Hill's Florida Brigade
and some other troops gave way, he was forced to abandon a small portion
of the ground he had won, together with all the captured guns, except
three. His troops, however, bivouacked during the night on ground
occupied by the enemy this morning.

Every one deplores that Longstreet _will_ expose himself in such a
reckless manner. To-day he led a Georgian regiment in a charge against a
battery, hat in hand, and in front of everybody. General Barksdale was
killed and Semmes mortally wounded; but the most serious loss was that
of General Hood, who was badly wounded in the arm early in the day. I
heard that his Texans are in despair. Lawley and I rode back to the
General's camp, which had been moved to within a mile of the scene of
action. Longstreet, however, with most of his Staff, bivouacked on the
field.

Major Fairfax arrived at about 10 P.M. in a very bad humour. He had
under his charge about 1000 to 1500 Yankee prisoners who had been taken
to-day; among them a general, whom I heard one of his men accusing of
having been "so G----d d----d drunk that he had turned his guns upon his
own men." But, on the other hand, the accuser was such a thundering
blackguard, and proposed taking such a variety of oaths in order to
escape from the U.S. army, that he is not worthy of much credit. A large
train of horses and mules, &c., arrived to-day, sent in by General
Stuart, and captured, it is understood, by his cavalry, which had
penetrated to within six miles of Washington.

       *       *       *       *       *

_3d July_ (Friday).--At 6 A.M. I rode to the field with Colonel Manning,
and went over that portion of the ground which, after a fierce contest,
had been won from the enemy yesterday evening. The dead were being
buried, but great numbers were still lying about; also many mortally
wounded, for whom nothing could be done. Amongst the latter were a
number of Yankees dressed in bad imitations of the Zouave costume. They
opened their glazed eyes as I rode past in a painfully imploring manner.

We joined Generals Lee and Longstreet's Staff; they were reconnoitring
and making preparations for renewing the attack. As we formed a pretty
large party, we often drew upon ourselves the attention of the hostile
sharpshooters, and were two or three times favoured with a shell. One of
these shells set a brick building on fire which was situated between the
lines. This building was filled with wounded, principally Yankees, who,
I am afraid, must have perished miserably in the flames. Colonel Sorrell
had been slightly wounded yesterday, but still did duty. Major Walton's
horse was killed, but there were no other casualties amongst my
particular friends.

The plan of yesterday's attack seems to have been very simple--first a
heavy cannonade all along the line, followed by an advance of
Longstreet's two divisions and part of Hill's corps. In consequence of
the enemy's having been driven back some distance, Longstreet's corps
(part of it) was in a much more forward situation than yesterday. But
the range of heights to be gained was still most formidable, and
evidently strongly intrenched.

The distance between the Confederate guns and the Yankee
position--_i.e._, between the woods crowning the opposite ridges--was at
least a mile,--quite open, gently undulating, and exposed to artillery
the whole distance. This was the ground which had to be crossed in
to-day's attack. Pickett's division, which had just come up, was to bear
the brunt in Longstreet's attack, together with Heth and Pettigrew in
Hill's corps. Pickett's division was a weak one (under 5000), owing to
the absence of two brigades.

At noon all Longstreet's dispositions were made; his troops for attack
were deployed into line, and lying down in the woods; his batteries were
ready to open. The General then dismounted and went to sleep for a short
time. The Austrian officer and I now rode off to get, if possible, into
some commanding position from whence we could see the whole thing
without being exposed to the tremendous fire which was about to
commence. After riding about for half an hour without being able to
discover so desirable a situation, we determined to make for the cupola,
near Gettysburg, Ewell's headquarters. Just before we reached the
entrance to the town, the cannonade opened with a fury which surpassed
even that of yesterday.

Soon after passing through the toll-gate at the entrance of
Gettysburg, we found that we had got into a heavy cross-fire; shells
both Federal and Confederate passing over our heads with great
frequency. At length two shrapnel shells burst quite close to us, and a
ball from one of them hit the officer who was conducting us. We then
turned round and changed our views with regard to the cupola--the fire
of one side being bad enough, but preferable to that of both sides. A
small boy of twelve years was riding with us at the time: this urchin
took a diabolical interest in the bursting of the shells, and screamed
with delight when he saw them take effect. I never saw this boy again,
or found out who he was. The road at Gettysburg was lined with Yankee
dead, and as they had been killed on the 1st, the poor fellows had
already begun to be very offensive. We then returned to the hill I was
on yesterday. But finding that, to see the actual fighting, it was
absolutely necessary to go into the thick of the thing, I determined to
make my way to General Longstreet. It was then about 2.30. After passing
General Lee and his Staff, I rode on through the woods in the direction
in which I had left Longstreet. I soon began to meet many wounded men
returning from the front; many of them asked in piteous tones the way to
a doctor or an ambulance. The further I got, the greater became the
number of the wounded. At last I came to a perfect stream of them
flocking through the woods in numbers as great as the crowd in Oxford
Street in the middle of the day. Some were walking alone on crutches
composed of two rifles, others were supported by men less badly wounded
than themselves, and others were carried on stretchers by the ambulance
corps; but in no case did I see a sound man helping the wounded to the
rear, unless he carried the red badge of the ambulance corps. They were
still under a heavy fire; the shells were continually bringing down
great limbs of trees, and carrying further destruction amongst this
melancholy procession. I saw all this in much less time than it takes to
write it, and although astonished to meet such vast numbers of wounded,
I had not seen _enough_ to give me any idea of the real extent of the
mischief.

When I got close up to General Longstreet, I saw one of his regiments
advancing through the woods in good order; so, thinking I was just in
time to see the attack, I remarked to the General that "_I wouldn't have
missed this for anything_." Longstreet was seated at the top of a snake
fence at the edge of the wood, and looking perfectly calm and
imperturbed. He replied, laughing, "_The devil you wouldn't! I would
like to have missed it very much; we've attacked and been repulsed: look
there!_"

For the first time I then had a view of the open space between the two
positions, and saw it covered with Confederates slowly and sulkily
returning towards us in small broken parties, under a heavy fire of
artillery. But the fire where we were was not so bad as further to the
rear; for although the air seemed alive with shell, yet the greater
number burst behind us.

The General told me that Pickett's division had succeeded in carrying
the enemy's position and capturing his guns, but after remaining there
twenty minutes, it had been forced to retire, on the retreat of Heth and
Pettigrew on its left. No person could have been more calm or
self-possessed than General Longstreet under these trying circumstances,
aggravated as they now were by the movements of the enemy, who began to
show a strong disposition to advance. I could now thoroughly appreciate
the term bulldog, which I had heard applied to him by the soldiers.
Difficulties seem to make no other impression upon him than to make him
a little more savage.

Major Walton was the only officer with him when I came up--all the rest
had been put into the charge. In a few minutes Major Latrobe arrived on
foot, carrying his saddle, having just had his horse killed. Colonel
Sorrell was also in the same predicament, and Captain Goree's horse was
wounded in the mouth.

The General was making the best arrangements in his power to resist the
threatened advance, by advancing some artillery, rallying the
stragglers, &c. I remember seeing a General (Pettigrew, I think it
was)[60] come up to him, and report that "he was unable to bring his men
up again." Longstreet turned upon him and replied with some sarcasm,
"_Very well; never mind, then, General; just let them remain where they
are: the enemy's going to advance, and will spare you the trouble._"

He asked for something to drink: I gave him some rum out of my silver
flask, which I begged he would keep in remembrance of the occasion; he
smiled, and, to my great satisfaction, accepted the memorial. He then
went off to give some orders to M'Laws's division. Soon afterwards I
joined General Lee, who had in the meanwhile come to that part of the
field on becoming aware of the disaster. If Longstreet's conduct was
admirable, that of General Lee was perfectly sublime. He was engaged in
rallying and in encouraging the broken troops, and was riding about a
little in front of the wood, quite alone--the whole of his Staff being
engaged in a similar manner further to the rear. His face, which is
always placid and cheerful, did not show signs of the slightest
disappointment, care, or annoyance; and he was addressing to every
soldier he met a few words of encouragement, such as, "All this will
come right in the end: we'll talk it over afterwards; but, in the mean
time, all good men must rally. We want all good and true men just now,"
&c. He spoke to all the wounded men that passed him, and the slightly
wounded he exhorted "to bind up their hurts and take up a musket" in
this emergency. Very few failed to answer his appeal, and I saw many
badly wounded men take off their hats and cheer him. He said to me,
"This has been a sad day for us, Colonel--a sad day; but we can't expect
always to gain victories." He was also kind enough to advise me to get
into some more sheltered position, as the shells were bursting round us
with considerable frequency.

Notwithstanding the misfortune which had so suddenly befallen him,
General Lee seemed to observe everything, however trivial. When a
mounted officer began licking his horse for shying at the bursting of a
shell, he called out, "Don't whip him, Captain; don't whip him. I've got
just such another foolish horse myself, and whipping does no good."

I happened to see a man lying flat on his face in a small ditch, and I
remarked that I didn't think he seemed dead; this drew General Lee's
attention to the man, who commenced groaning dismally. Finding appeals
to his patriotism of no avail, General Lee had him ignominiously set on
his legs by some neighbouring gunners.

I saw General Willcox (an officer who wears a short round jacket and a
battered straw hat) come up to him, and explain; almost crying, the
state of his brigade. General Lee immediately shook hands with him and
said, cheerfully, "Never mind, General, _all this has been_ MY
_fault_--it is _I_ that have lost this fight, and you must help me out
of it in the best way you can." In this manner I saw General Lee
encourage and reanimate his somewhat dispirited troops, and
magnanimously take upon his own shoulders the whole weight of the
repulse. It was impossible to look at him or to listen to him without
feeling the strongest admiration, and I never saw any man fail him
except the man in the ditch.

It is difficult to exaggerate the critical state of affairs as they
appeared about this time. If the enemy or their general had shown any
enterprise, there is no saying what might have happened. General Lee and
his officers were evidently fully impressed with a sense of the
situation; yet there was much less noise, fuss, or confusion of orders
than at an ordinary field-day: the men, as they were rallied in the
wood, were brought up in detachments, and lay down quietly and coolly in
the positions assigned to them.

We heard that Generals Garnett and Armistead were killed, and General
Kemper mortally wounded; also, that Pickett's division had only one
field-officer unhurt. Nearly all this slaughter took place in an open
space about one mile square, and within one hour.

At 6 P.M. we heard a long and continuous Yankee cheer, which we at
first imagined was an indication of an advance; but it turned out to be
their reception of a general officer, whom we saw riding down the line,
followed by about thirty horsemen. Soon afterwards I rode to the extreme
front, where there were four pieces of rifled cannon almost without any
infantry support. To the non-withdrawal of these guns is to be
attributed the otherwise surprising inactivity of the enemy. I was
immediately surrounded by a sergeant and about half-a-dozen gunners, who
seemed in excellent spirits and full of confidence, in spite of their
exposed situation. The sergeant expressed his ardent hope that the
Yankees might have spirit enough to advance and receive the dose he had
in readiness for them. They spoke in admiration of the advance of
Pickett's division, and of the manner in which Pickett himself had led
it. When they observed General Lee they said, "We've not lost confidence
in the old man: this day's work won't do him no harm. 'Uncle Robert'
will get us into Washington yet; you bet he will?" &c. Whilst we were
talking, the enemy's skirmishers began to advance slowly, and several
ominous sounds in quick succession told us that we were attracting their
attention, and that it was necessary to break up the conclave. I
therefore turned round and took leave of these cheery and plucky
gunners.

At 7 P.M., General Lee received a report that Johnson's division of
Ewell's corps had been successful on the left, and had gained important
advantages there. Firing entirely ceased in our front about this time;
but we now heard some brisk musketry on our right, which I afterwards
learned proceeded from Hood's Texans, who had managed to surround some
enterprising Yankee cavalry, and were slaughtering them with great
satisfaction. Only eighteen out of four hundred are said to have
escaped.

At 7.30, all idea of a Yankee attack being over, I rode back to Moses's
tent, and found that worthy commissary in very low spirits, all sorts of
exaggerated rumours having reached him. On my way I met a great many
wounded men, most anxious to inquire after Longstreet, who was reported
killed; when I assured them he was quite well, they seemed to forget
their own pain in the evident pleasure they felt in the safety of their
chief. No words that I can use will adequately express the extraordinary
patience and fortitude with which the wounded Confederates bore their
sufferings.

I got something to eat with the doctors at 10 P.M., the first for
fifteen hours.

I gave up my horse to-day to his owner, as from death and exhaustion the
Staff are almost without horses.

[60] This officer was afterwards killed at the passage of the Potomac.

       *       *       *       *       *

_4th July_ (Saturday).--I was awoke at daylight by Moses complaining
that his valuable trunk, containing much public money, had been stolen
from our tent whilst we slept. After a search it was found in a wood
hard by, broken open and minus the money. Dr Barksdale had been robbed
in the same manner exactly. This is evidently the work of those rascally
stragglers, who shirk going under fire, plunder the natives, and will
hereafter swagger as the heroes of Gettysburg.

Lawley, the Austrian, and I, walked up to the front about eight o'clock,
and on our way we met General Longstreet, who was in a high state of
amusement and good-humour. A flag of truce had just come over from the
enemy, and its bearer announced among other things that "General
Longstreet was wounded, and a prisoner, but would be taken care of."
General Longstreet sent back word that he was extremely grateful, but
that, being neither wounded nor a prisoner, he was quite able to take
care of himself. The iron endurance of General Longstreet is most
extraordinary: he seems to require neither food nor sleep. Most of his
Staff now fall fast asleep directly they get off their horses, they are
so exhausted from the last three days' work.

Whilst Lawley went to headquarters on business, I sat down and had a
long talk with General Pendleton (the parson), chief of artillery. He
told me the exact number of guns in action yesterday. He said that the
universal opinion is in favour of the 12-pounder Napoleon guns as the
best and simplest sort of ordnance for field purposes.[61] Nearly all
the artillery with this army has either been captured from the enemy or
cast from old 6-pounders taken at the early part of the war.

At 10 A.M. Lawley returned from headquarters, bringing the news that the
army is to commence moving in the direction of Virginia this evening.
This step is imperative from want of ammunition. But it was hoped that
the enemy might attack during the day, especially as this is the 4th
July, and it was calculated that there was still ammunition for one
day's fighting. The ordnance train had already commenced moving back
towards Cashtown, and Ewell's immense train of plunder had been
proceeding towards Hagerstown by the Fairfield road ever since an early
hour this morning.

Johnson's division had evacuated during the night the position it had
gained yesterday. It appears that for a time it was actually in
possession of the cemetery, but had been forced to retire from thence
from want of support by Pender's division, which had been retarded by
that officer's wound. The whole of our left was therefore thrown back
considerably.

At 1 P.M. the rain began to descend in torrents, and we took refuge in
the hovel of an ignorant Pennsylvanian boor. The cottage was full of
soldiers, none of whom had the slightest idea of the contemplated
retreat, and all were talking of Washington and Baltimore with the
greatest confidence.

At 2 P.M. we walked to General Longstreet's camp, which had been
removed to a place three miles distant, on the Fairfield road. General
Longstreet talked to me for a long time about the battle. He said the
mistake they had made was in not concentrating the army more, and making
the attack yesterday with 30,000 men instead of 15,000. The advance had
been in three lines, and the troops of Hill's corps who gave way were
young soldiers, who had never been under fire before. He thought the
enemy would have attacked had the guns been withdrawn. Had they done so
at that particular moment immediately after the repulse, it would have
been awkward; but in that case he had given orders for the advance of
Hood's division and M'Laws's on the right. I think, after all, that
General Meade was right not to advance--his men would never have stood
the tremendous fire of artillery they would have been exposed to. Rather
over 7000 Yankees were captured during the three days;--3500 took the
parole; the remainder were now being marched to Richmond, escorted by
the remains of Pickett's division. It is impossible to avoid seeing that
the cause of this check to the Confederates lies in the utter contempt
felt for the enemy by all ranks.

Waggons, horses, mules, and cattle captured in Pennsylvania, the solid
advantages of this campaign, have been passing slowly along this road
(Fairfield) all day: those taken by Ewell are particularly admired. So
interminable was this train that it soon became evident that we should
not be able to start till late at night. As soon as it became dark we
all lay round a big fire, and I heard reports coming in from the
different generals that the enemy was _retiring_, and had been doing so
all day long. M'Laws reported nothing in his front but cavalry videttes.
But this, of course, could make no difference to General Lee's plans:
ammunition he must have--he had failed to capture it from the enemy
(according to precedent); and as his communications with Virginia were
intercepted, he was compelled to fall back towards Winchester, and draw
his supplies from thence. General Milroy had kindly left an ample stock
at that town when he made his precipitate exit some weeks ago. The army
was also encumbered with an enormous waggon-train, the spoils of
Pennsylvania, which it is highly desirable to get safely over the
Potomac.

Shortly after 9 P.M. the rain began to descend in torrents. Lawley and I
luckily got into the doctors' covered buggy, and began to get slowly
under way a little after midnight.

[61] The Napoleon 12-pounders are smooth-bore brass guns, with chambers,
very light, and with long range. They were invented or recommended by
Louis Napoleon years ago. A large number are being cast at Augusta and
elsewhere.

       *       *       *       *       *

_5th July_ (Sunday).--The night was very bad--thunder and lightning,
torrents of rain--the road knee-deep in mud and water, and often blocked
up with waggons "come to grief." I pitied the wretched plight of the
unfortunate soldiers who were to follow us. Our progress was naturally
very slow indeed, and we took eight hours to go as many miles.

At 8 A.M. we halted a little beyond the village of Fairfield, near the
entrance to a mountain-pass. No sooner had we done so and lit a fire,
than an alarm was spread that Yankee cavalry were upon us. Several shots
flew over our heads, but we never could discover from whence they came.
News also arrived of the capture of the whole of Ewell's beautiful
waggons.[62] These reports created a regular stampede amongst the
waggoners, and Longstreet's drivers started off as fast as they could
go. Our medical trio, however, firmly declined to budge, and came to
this wise conclusion, partly urged by the pangs of hunger, and partly
from the consideration that, if the Yankee cavalry did come, the crowded
state of the road in our rear would prevent our escape. Soon afterwards,
some Confederate cavalry were pushed to the front, who cleared the pass
after a slight skirmish.

At noon, Generals Lee and Longstreet arrived, and halted close to us.
Soon afterwards Ewell came up. This is the first time I ever saw him. He
is rather a remarkable-looking old soldier, with a bald head, a
prominent nose, and rather a haggard, sickly face: having so lately lost
his leg above the knee, he is still a complete cripple, and falls off
his horse occasionally. Directly he dismounts he has to be put on
crutches. He was Stonewall Jackson's coadjutor during the celebrated
valley campaigns, and he used to be a great swearer--in fact, he is said
to have been the only person who was unable to restrain that propensity
before Jackson; but since his late (rather romantic) marriage, he has
(to use the American expression) "_joined the Church_." When I saw him
he was in a great state of disgust in consequence of the supposed loss
of his waggons, and refused to be comforted by General Lee.

I joined Longstreet again, and, mounted on Lawley's venerable horse,
started at 3 P.M. to ride through the pass. At 4 P.M. we stopped at a
place where the roads fork, one leading to Emmetsburg, and the other to
Hagerstown. Major Moses and I entered a farmhouse, in which we found
several women, two wounded Yankees, and one dead one, the result of this
morning's skirmish. One of the sufferers was frightfully wounded in the
head; the other was hit in the knee: the latter told me he was an
Irishman, and had served in the Bengal Europeans during the Indian
Mutiny. He now belonged to a Michigan cavalry regiment, and had already
imbibed American ideas of Ireland's wrongs, and all that sort of trash.
He told me that his officers were very bad, and that the idea in the
army was that M'Clellan had assumed the chief command.

The women in this house were great Abolitionists. When Major Fairfax
rode up, he inquired of one of them whether the corpse was that of a
Confederate or Yankee (the body was in the verandah, covered with a
white sheet). The woman made a gesture with her foot, and replied, "If
it was a rebel, do you think it would be here long?" Fairfax then said,
"Is it a woman who speaks in such a manner of a dead body which can do
no one any harm?" She thereupon coloured up, and said she wasn't in
earnest.

At 6 o'clock we rode on again (by the Hagerstown road) and came up with
General Longstreet at 7.30. The road was full of soldiers marching in a
particularly lively manner--the wet and mud seemed to have produced no
effect whatever on their spirits, which were as boisterous as ever. They
had got hold of coloured prints of Mr Lincoln, which they were passing
about from company to company with many remarks upon the personal beauty
of Uncle Abe. The same old chaff was going on of "Come out of that
hat--I know you're in it--I sees your legs a-dangling down," &c. When we
halted for the night, skirmishing was going on in front and rear--Stuart
in front and Ewell in rear. Our bivouac being near a large tavern,
General Longstreet had ordered some supper there for himself and his
Staff; but when we went to devour it, we discovered General M'Laws and
his officers rapidly finishing it. We, however, soon got more, the
Pennsylvanian proprietors being particularly anxious to propitiate the
General, in hopes that he would spare their live stock, which had been
condemned to death by the ruthless Moses.

During supper women came rushing in at intervals, saying--"Oh, good
heavens, now they're killing our fat hogs. Which is the General? which
is the Great Officer? Our milch cows are now going." To all which
expressions Longstreet replied, shaking his head in a melancholy
manner--"Yes, madam, it's very sad--very sad; and this sort of thing has
been going on in Virginia more than two years--very sad."

We all slept in the open, and the heavy rain produced no effect upon our
slumbers.

I understand it is impossible to cross the lines by flag of truce. I
therefore find myself in a dilemma about the expiration of my leave.

[62] It afterwards turned out that all escaped but thirty-eight.

       *       *       *       *       *

_6th July_ (Monday).--Several horses were stolen last night, mine nearly
so. It is necessary to be very careful, in order to prevent this
misfortune. We started at 6.30, but got on very slowly, so blocked up
was the road with waggons, some of which had been captured and burnt by
the enemy yesterday. It now turned out that all Ewell's waggons escaped
except thirty-eight, although, at one time, they had been all in the
enemy's hands.

At 8.30 we halted for a couple of hours, and Generals Lee, Longstreet,
Hill, and Willcox had a consultation. I spoke to ---- about my
difficulties with regard to getting home, and the necessity of doing so,
owing to the approaching expiration of my leave. He told me that the
army had no intention at present of retreating for good, and advised me
to stop with them and see what turned up; he also said that some of the
enemy's despatches had been intercepted, in which the following words
occur:--"The noble but unfortunate army of the Potomac has again been
obliged to retreat before superior numbers." I particularly observed the
marching to-day of the 21st Mississippi, which was uncommonly good. This
regiment all wear short round jackets, a most unusual circumstance, for
they are generally unpopular in the South.

At 12 o'clock we halted again, and all set to work to eat cherries,
which was the only food we got between 5 A.M. and 11 P.M.

I saw a most laughable spectacle this afternoon--viz., a negro dressed
in full Yankee uniform, with a rifle at full cock, leading along a
barefooted white man, with whom he had evidently changed clothes.
General Longstreet stopped the pair, and asked the black man what it
meant. He replied, "The two soldiers in charge of this here Yank have
got drunk, so for fear he should escape I have took care of him, and
brought him through that little town." The consequential manner of the
negro, and the supreme contempt with which he spoke to his prisoner,
were most amusing. This little episode of a Southern slave leading a
white Yankee soldier through a Northern village, _alone and of his own
accord_, would not have been gratifying to an abolitionist. Nor would
the sympathisers both in England and in the North feel encouraged if
they could hear the language of detestation and contempt with which the
numerous negroes with the Southern armies speak of their liberators.[63]

I saw General Hood in his carriage; he looked rather bad, and has been
suffering a good deal; the doctors seem to doubt whether they will be
able to save his arm. I also saw General Hampton, of the cavalry, who
has been shot in the hip, and has two sabre-cuts on the head, but he was
in very good spirits.

A short time before we reached Hagerstown there was some firing in
front, together with an alarm that the Yankee cavalry was upon us. The
ambulances were sent back; but some of the wounded jumped out, and,
producing the rifles which they had not parted with, they prepared to
fight. After a good deal of desultory skirmishing, we seated ourselves
upon a hill overlooking Hagerstown, and saw the enemy's cavalry driven
through the town pursued by yelling Confederates. A good many Yankee
prisoners now passed us; one of them, who was smoking a cigar, was a
lieutenant of cavalry, dressed very smartly, and his hair brushed with
the greatest care; he formed rather a contrast to his ragged escort, and
to ourselves, who had not washed or shaved for ever so long.

About 7 P.M. we rode through Hagerstown, in the streets of which were
several dead horses and a few dead men. After proceeding about a mile
beyond the town we halted, and General Longstreet sent four cavalrymen
up a lane, with directions to report everything they saw. We then
dismounted and lay down. About ten minutes later (being nearly dark) we
heard a sudden rush--a panic--and then a regular stampede commenced, in
the midst of which I descried our four cavalry heroes crossing a field
as fast as they could gallop. All was now complete confusion;--officers
mounting their horses, and pursuing those which had got loose, and
soldiers climbing over fences for protection against the supposed
advancing Yankees. In the middle of the din I heard an artillery officer
shouting to his "cannoneers" to stand by him, and plant the guns in a
proper position for enfilading the lane. I also distinguished Longstreet
walking about, hustled by the excited crowd, and remarking, in angry
tones, which could scarcely be heard, and to which no attention was
paid, "Now, you don't know what it is--you don't know what it is."
Whilst the row and confusion were at their height, the object of all
this alarm at length emerged from the dark lane in the shape of a
domestic four-wheel carriage, with a harmless load of females. The
stampede had, however, spread, increased in the rear, and caused much
harm and delay.

Cavalry skirmishing went on until quite dark, a determined attack having
been made by the enemy, who did his best to prevent the trains from
crossing the Potomac at Williamsport. It resulted in the success of the
Confederates; but every impartial man confesses that these cavalry
fights are miserable affairs. Neither party has any idea of serious
charging with the sabre. They approach one another with considerable
boldness, until they get to within about forty yards, and then, at the
very moment when a dash is necessary, and the sword alone should be
used, they hesitate, halt, and commence a desultory fire with carbines
and revolvers.

An Englishman, named Winthrop, a captain in the Confederate army, and
formerly an officer in H.M.'s 22d regiment, although not in the cavalry
himself, seized the colours of one of the regiments, and rode straight
at the Yankees in the most gallant manner, shouting to the men to follow
him. He continued to distinguish himself by leading charges until his
horse was unfortunately killed. I heard his conduct on this occasion
highly spoken of by all. Stuart's cavalry can hardly be called cavalry
in the European sense of the word; but, on the other hand, the country
in which they are accustomed to operate is not adapted for cavalry.

---- was forced at last to give up wearing even his Austrian forage-cap;
for the last two days soldiers on the line of march had been visiting
his ambulance in great numbers, under the impression (encouraged by the
driver) that he was a Yankee general. The idea now was that the army
would remain some days in or near its present position until the arrival
of the ammunition from Winchester.

[63] From what I have seen of the Southern negroes, I am of opinion that
the Confederates could, if they chose, convert a great number into
soldiers; and from the affection which undoubtedly exists as a general
rule between the slaves and their masters, I think that they would prove
more efficient than black troops under any other circumstances. But I do
not imagine that such an experiment will be tried, except as a very last
resort, partly on account of the great value of the negroes, and partly
because the Southerners consider it improper to introduce such an
element on a large scale into civilised warfare. Any person who has seen
negro features convulsed with rage, may form a slight estimate of what
the result would be of arming a vast number of blacks, rousing their
passions, and then allowing them free scope.

       *       *       *       *       *

_7th July_ (Tuesday).--Lawley, the Austrian, and I drove into
Hagerstown this morning, and General Longstreet moved into a new
position on the Williamsport road, which he was to occupy for the
present. We got an excellent room in the Washington Hotel on producing
greenbacks. Public opinion in Hagerstown seems to be pretty evenly
divided between North and South, and probably accommodates itself to
circumstances. For instance, yesterday the women waved their
handkerchiefs when the Yankee cavalry were driven through the town, and
to-day they went through the same compliment in honour of 3500 Yankee
(Gettysburg) prisoners whom I saw marched through _en route_ for
Richmond. I overheard the conversation of some Confederate soldiers
about these prisoners. One remarked, with respect to the Zouaves, of
whom there were a few--"Those red-breeched fellows look as if they could
fight, but they don't, though; no, not so well as the bluebellies."

Lawley introduced me to General Stuart in the streets of Hagerstown
to-day. He is commonly called Jeb Stuart, on account of his initials; he
is a good-looking, jovial character, exactly like his photographs. He
has certainly accomplished wonders, and done excellent service in his
peculiar style of warfare. He is a good and gallant soldier, though he
sometimes incurs ridicule by his harmless affectation and peculiarities.
The other day he rode through a Virginian town, his horse covered with
garlands of roses. He also departs considerably from the severe
simplicity of dress adopted by other Confederate generals; but no one
can deny that he is the right man in the right place. On a campaign, he
seems to roam over the country according to his own discretion, and
always gives a good account of himself, turning up at the right moment;
and hitherto he has never got himself into any serious trouble.

I rode to General Longstreet's camp, which is about two miles in the
direction of Williamsport, and consulted him about my difficulties with
regard to my leave. He was most good-natured about it, and advised me
under the circumstances to drive in the direction of Hancock; and, in
the event of being ill-treated on my way, to insist upon being taken
before the nearest U.S. officer of the highest rank, who would probably
protect me. I determined to take his advice at once; so I took leave of
him and of his officers. Longstreet is generally a very taciturn and
undemonstrative man, but he was quite affectionate in his farewell. His
last words were a hearty hope for the speedy termination of the war. All
his officers were equally kind in their expressions on my taking leave,
though the last sentence uttered by Latrobe was not entirely
reassuring--viz., "You may take your oath he'll be caught for a spy."

I then rode to General Lee's camp, and asked him for a pass to get
through his lines. We had a long talk together, and he told me of the
raid made by the enemy, for the express purpose of arresting his badly
wounded son (a Confederate Brigadier-General), who was lying in the
house of a relation in Virginia. They insisted upon carrying him off in
a litter, though he had never been out of bed, and had quite recently
been shot through the thigh. This seizure was evidently made for
purposes of retaliation. His life has since been threatened, in the
event of the South retaliating for Burnside's alleged military murders
in Kentucky. But few officers, however, speak of the Northerners with so
much moderation as General Lee; his extreme amiability seems to prevent
his speaking strongly against any one. I really felt quite sorry when I
said good-bye to so many gentlemen from whom I had received so much
disinterested kindness.

I am now about to leave the Southern States, after travelling quite
alone throughout their entire length and breadth, including Texas and
the trans-Mississippi country, for nearly three months and a half,
during which time I have been thrown amongst all classes of the
population--the highest, the lowest, and the most lawless. Although many
were very sore about the conduct of England, I never received an uncivil
word from anybody, but, on the contrary, I have been treated by all with
more than kindness.[64] I have never met a man who was not anxious for a
termination of the war; and I have never met a man, woman, or child who
contemplated its termination as possible without an entire separation
from the _now_ detested Yankee. I have never been asked for alms or a
gratuity by any man or woman, black or white. Every one knew who I was,
and all spoke to me with the greatest confidence. I have rarely heard
any person complain of the almost total ruin which has befallen so many.
All are prepared to undergo still greater sacrifices,--they contemplate
and prepare to receive great reverses which it is impossible to avert.
They look to a successful termination of the war as certain, although
few are sanguine enough to fix a speedy date for it, and nearly all
bargain for its lasting at least all Lincoln's presidency. Although I
have always been with the Confederates in the time of their misfortunes,
yet I never heard any person use a desponding word as to the result of
the struggle. When I was in Texas and Louisiana, Banks seemed to be
carrying everything before him, Grant was doing the same in Mississippi,
and I certainly did not bring luck to my friends at Gettysburg. I have
lived in bivouacs with all the Southern armies, which are as distinct
from one another as the British is from the Austrian, and I have never
once seen an instance of insubordination.

When I got back to Hagerstown, I endeavoured to make arrangements for a
horse and buggy to drive through the lines. With immense difficulty I
secured the services of a Mr ----, to take me to Hancock, and as much
farther as I chose to go, for a dollar a mile (greenbacks). I engaged
also to pay him the value of his horse and buggy, in case they should be
confiscated by either side. He was evidently extremely alarmed, and I
was obliged to keep him up to the mark by assurances that his horse
would inevitably be seized by the Confederates, unless protected by
General Lee's pass in my possession.

[64] The only occasion on which I was roughly handled was when I had the
misfortune to enter the city of Jackson, Mississippi, just as the
Federals evacuated it. I do not complain of that affair, which, under
the circumstances, was not to be wondered at.

       *       *       *       *       *

_8th July_ (Wednesday).--My conductor told me he couldn't go to-day on
account of a funeral, but he promised faithfully to start to-morrow.
Every one was full of forebodings as to my probable fate when I fell
into Yankee clutches. In deference to their advice I took off my grey
shooting-jacket, in which they said I was sure to be taken for a rebel,
and I put on a black coat; but I scouted all well-meant advice as to
endeavouring to disguise myself as an "American citizen," or to conceal
the exact truth in any way. I was aware that a great deal depended upon
falling into the hands of a gentleman, and I did not believe these were
so rare in the Northern army as the Confederates led me to suppose.

       *       *       *       *       *

_9th July_ (Thursday).--I left Hagerstown at 8 A.M., in my conductor's
good buggy, after saying farewell to Lawley, the Austrian, and the
numerous Confederate officers who came to see me off, and wish me
good-luck. We passed the Confederate advanced post at about two miles
from Hagerstown, and were allowed to pass on the production of General
Lee's authority. I was now fairly launched beyond the Confederate lines
for the first time since I had been in America. Immediately afterwards
we began to be asked all sorts of inquisitive questions about the
rebels, which I left to my driver to answer. It became perfectly evident
that this narrow strip of Maryland is entirely Unionist.

At about 12 o'clock we reached the top of a high hill, and halted to
bait our horse at an inn called Fairview. No sooner had we descended
from the buggy than about twenty rampageous Unionists appeared, who told
us they had come up to get a good view of the big fight in which the
G----d d----d rebels were to be all captured, or drowned in the Potomac.

My appearance evidently did not please them from the very first. With
alarm I observed them talking to one another, and pointing at me. At
length a particularly truculent-looking individual, with an enormous
mustache, approached me, and, fixing his eyes long and steadfastly upon
my trousers, he remarked, in the surliest possible tones, "_Them
breeches is a d----d bad colour._" This he said in allusion, not to
their dirty state, but to the fact of their being grey, the rebel
colour. I replied to this very disagreeable assertion in as conciliating
a way as I possibly could; and in answer to his question as to who I
was, I said that I was an English traveller. He then said that his wife
was an English lady from Preston. I next expressed my pride in being a
countryman of his wife's. He then told me in tones that admitted of no
contradiction, that Preston was just forty-five miles east of London;
and he afterwards launched into torrents of invectives against the
rebels, who had _run him_ out of Virginia; and he stated his intention
of killing them in great numbers to gratify his taste. With some
difficulty I prevailed upon him and his rabid brethren to drink, which
pacified them slightly for a time; but when the horse was brought out to
be harnessed, it became evident I was not to be allowed to proceed
without a row. I therefore addressed the crowd, and asked them quietly
who among them wished to detain me; and I told them, at the same time,
that I would not answer any questions put by those who were not persons
in authority, but that I should be most happy to explain myself to any
officer of the United States army. At length they allowed me to proceed,
on the understanding that my buggy-driver should hand me over to General
Kelly, at Hancock. The driver was provided with a letter for the
General, in which I afterwards discovered that I was denounced as a spy,
and "handed over to the General _to be dealt with as justice to our
cause demands_." We were then allowed to start, the driver being
threatened with condign vengeance if he let me escape.

After we had proceeded about six miles we fell in with some Yankee
cavalry, by whom we were immediately captured, and the responsibility of
my custody was thus removed from my conductor's shoulders. A cavalry
soldier was put in charge of us, and we passed through the numerous
Yankee outposts under the title of "_Prisoners_."

The hills near Hancock were white with Yankee tents, and there were, I
believe, from 8000 to 10,000 Federals there. I did not think much of the
appearance of the Northern troops; they are certainly dressed in proper
uniform, but their clothes are badly fitted, and they are often
round-shouldered, dirty, and slovenly in appearance; in fact, bad
imitations of soldiers. Now, the Confederate has no ambition to imitate
the regular soldier at all; he looks the genuine rebel; but in spite of
his bare feet, his ragged clothes, his old rug, and tooth-brush stuck
like a rose in his button-hole,[65] he has a sort of devil-may-care,
reckless, self-confident look, which is decidedly taking.

At 5 P.M. we drove up in front of the door of General Kelly's quarters,
and to my immense relief I soon discovered that he was a gentleman. I
then explained to him the whole truth, concealing nothing. I said I was
a British officer on leave of absence, travelling for my own
instruction; that I had been all the way to Mexico, and entered the
Southern States by the Rio Grande, for the express purpose of not
breaking any legally established blockade. I told him I had visited all
the Southern armies in Mississippi, Tennessee, Charleston, and Virginia,
and seen the late campaign as General Longstreet's guest, but had in no
way entered the Confederate service. I also gave him my word that I had
not got in my possession any letters, either public or private, from any
person in the South to any person anywhere else. I showed him my British
passport and General Lee's pass as a British officer; and I explained
that my only object in coming North was to return to England in time for
the expiration of my leave; and I ended by expressing a hope that he
would make my detention as short as possible.

After considering a short time, he said that he would certainly allow me
to go on, but that he could not allow my driver to go back. I felt
immensely relieved at the decision, but the countenance of my companion
lengthened considerably. It was, however, settled that he should take me
on to Cumberland, and General Kelly good-naturedly promised to do what
he could for him on his return.

General Kelly then asked me in an off-hand manner whether all General
Lee's army was at Hagerstown; but I replied, laughing, "You of course
understand, General, that, having got that pass from General Lee, I am
bound by every principle of honour not to give you any information which
can be of advantage to you." He laughed and promised not to ask me any
more questions of that sort. He then sent his aide-de-camp with me to
the provost-marshal, who immediately gave me a pass for Cumberland. On
my return to the General's, I discovered the perfidious driver (that
zealous Southerner a few hours previous) hard at work communicating to
General Kelly all he knew, and a great deal more besides; but, from what
I heard, I don't think his information was very valuable.

I was treated by General Kelly and all his officers with the greatest
good-nature and courtesy, although I had certainly come among them under
circumstances suspicious, to say the least. I felt quite sorry that they
should be opposed to my Southern friends, and I regretted still more
that they should be obliged to serve with or under a Butler, a Milroy,
or even a Hooker. I took leave of them at six o'clock; and I can truly
say that the only Federal officers I have ever come in contact with were
gentlemen.

We had got four miles beyond Hancock, when the tire of one of our wheels
came off, and we had to stop for a night at a farmhouse. I had supper
with the farmer and his labourers, who had just come in from the fields,
and the supper was much superior to that which can be procured at the
first hotel at Richmond. All were violent Unionists, and perfectly under
the impression that the rebels were totally demoralised, and about to
lay down their arms. Of course I held my tongue, and gave no one reason
to suppose that I had ever been in rebeldom.

[65] This tooth-brush in the button-hole is a very common custom, and
has a most quaint effect.

       *       *       *       *       *

_10th July_ (Friday).--The drive from Hancock to Cumberland is a very
mountainous forty-four miles--total distance from Hagerstown, sixty-six
miles. We met with no further adventure on the road, although the people
were very inquisitive, but I never opened my mouth. One woman in
particular, who kept a toll-bar, thrust her ugly old head out of an
upper window, and yelled out, "Air they a-fixin' for another battle out
there?" jerking her head in the direction of Hagerstown. The driver
replied that, although the bunch of rebels there was pretty big, yet he
could not answer for their fixing arrangements, which he afterwards
explained to me meant digging fortifications.

We arrived at Cumberland at 7 P.M. This is a great coal place, and a few
weeks ago it was touched up by "Imboden," who burnt a lot of coal
barges, which has rendered the people rabid against the Rebs. I started
by stage for Johnstown at 8.30 P.M.

       *       *       *       *       *

_11th July_ (Saturday).--I hope I may never for my sins be again
condemned to travel for thirty hours in an American stage on a used-up
plank road. We changed carriages at Somerset. All my fellow-travellers
were of course violent Unionists, and invariably spoke of my late
friends as Rebels or Rebs. They had all got it into their heads that
their Potomac army, not having been thoroughly thrashed, as it always
has been hitherto, had achieved a tremendous victory; and that its new
chief, General Meade, who in reality was driven into a strong position,
which he had sense enough to stick to, is a wonderful strategist. They
all hope that the remnants of Lee's army will not be allowed to ESCAPE
over the Potomac; whereas, when I left the army two days ago, no man in
it had a thought of escaping over the Potomac, and certainly General
Meade was not in a position to attempt to prevent the passage, if
crossing had become necessary.

I reached Johnstown on the Pennsylvania Railway at 6 P.M., and found
that town in a great state of excitement in consequence of the review of
two militia companies, who were receiving garlands from the fair ladies
of Johnstown in gratitude for their daring conduct in turning out to
resist Lee's invasion. Most of the men seemed to be respectable
mechanics, not at all adapted for an early interview with the rebels.
The garlands supplied were as big and apparently as substantial as a
ship's life-buoys, and the recipients looked particularly helpless after
they had got them. Heaven help those Pennsylvanian braves if a score of
Hood's Texans had caught sight of them!

Left Johnstown by train at 7.30 P.M., and, by paying half a dollar, I
secured a berth in a sleeping-car--a most admirable and ingenious Yankee
notion.

       *       *       *       *       *

_12th July_ (Sunday).--The Pittsburg and Philadelphia Railway is, I
believe, accounted one of the best in America, which did not prevent my
spending eight hours last night off the line; but, being asleep at the
time, I was unaware of the circumstance. Instead of arriving at
Philadelphia at 6 A.M., we did not get there till 3 P.M. Passed
Harrisburg at 9 A.M. It was full of Yankee soldiers, and has evidently
not recovered from the excitement consequent upon the late invasion, one
effect of which has been to prevent the cutting of the crops by the
calling out of the militia.

At Philadelphia I saw a train containing one hundred and fifty
Confederate prisoners, who were being stared at by a large number of the
_beau monde_ of Philadelphia. I mingled with the crowd which was
chaffing them. Most of the people were good-natured, but I heard one
suggestion to the effect that they should be taken to the river, "and
every mother's son of them drowned there."

I arrived at New York at 10 P.M., and drove to the Fifth Avenue Hotel.

       *       *       *       *       *

_13th July_ (Monday).--The luxury and comfort of New York and
Philadelphia strike one as extraordinary after having lately come from
Charleston and Richmond. The greenbacks seem to be nearly as good as
gold. The streets are as full as possible of well-dressed people, and
are crowded with able-bodied civilians capable of bearing arms, who have
evidently no intention of doing so. They apparently _don't feel the war
at all_ here; and until there is a grand smash with their money, or some
other catastrophe to make them feel it, I can easily imagine that they
will not be anxious to make peace.

I walked the whole distance of Broadway to the Consul's house, and
nothing could exceed the apparent prosperity; the street was covered
with banners and placards inviting people to enlist in various
high-sounding regiments. Bounties of $550 were offered, and huge
pictures hung across the street, on which numbers of ragged
_greybacks_,[66] terror depicted on their features, were being pursued
by the Federals.

On returning to the Fifth Avenue, I found all the shopkeepers beginning
to close their stores, and I perceived by degrees that there was great
alarm about the resistance to the draft which was going on this morning.
On reaching the hotel I perceived a whole block of buildings on fire
close by: engines were present, but were not allowed to play by the
crowd. In the hotel itself, universal consternation prevailed, and an
attack by the mob had been threatened. I walked about in the
neighbourhood, and saw a company of soldiers on the march, who were
being jeered at and hooted by small boys, and I saw a negro pursued by
the crowd take refuge with the military; he was followed by loud cries
of "Down with the b----y nigger! Kill all niggers!" &c. Never having
been in New York before, and being totally ignorant of the state of
feeling with regard to negroes, I inquired of a bystander what the
negroes had done that they should want to kill them? He replied, civilly
enough--"Oh sir, they hate them here; they are the innocent cause of all
these troubles." Shortly afterwards, I saw a troop of citizen cavalry
come up; the troopers were very gorgeously attired, but evidently
experienced so much difficulty in sitting their horses, that they were
more likely to excite laughter than any other emotion.

[66] The Northerners call the Southerners "Greybacks," just as the
latter call the former "Bluebellies," on account of the colour of their
dress.

       *       *       *       *       *

_14th July_ (Tuesday).--At breakfast this morning two Irish waiters,
seeing I was a Britisher, came up to me one after the other, and
whispered at intervals in hoarse Hibernian accents--"It's disgraceful,
sir. I've been drafted, sir. I'm a Briton. I love my country. I love the
Union Jack, sir." I suggested an interview with Mr Archibald, but
neither of them seemed to care about going to the _Counsel_ just yet.
These rascals have probably been hard at work for years, voting as free
and enlightened American citizens, and abusing England to their hearts'
content.

I heard every one talking of the total demoralisation of the Rebels as a
certain fact, and all seemed to anticipate their approaching
destruction. All this sounded very absurd to me, who had left Lee's army
four days previously as full of fight as ever--much stronger in numbers,
and ten times more efficient in every military point of view, than it
was _when it crossed the Potomac to invade Maryland a year ago_. In its
own opinion, Lee's army has not lost any of its prestige at the battle
of Gettysburg, in which it most gallantly stormed strong intrenchments
defended by the whole army of the Potomac, which never ventured outside
its works, or approached in force within half a mile of the Confederate
artillery.

The result of the battle of Gettysburg, together with the fall of
Vicksburg and Port Hudson, seems to have turned everybody's head
completely, and has deluded them with the idea of the speedy and
complete subjugation of the South. I was filled with astonishment to
hear people speaking in this confident manner, when one of their most
prosperous States had been so recently laid under contribution as far as
Harrisburg and Washington, their capital itself having just been saved
by a fortunate turn of luck. Four-fifths of the Pennsylvanian spoil had
safely crossed the Potomac before I left Hagerstown.

The consternation in the streets seemed to be on the increase; fires
were going on in all directions, and the streets were being patrolled by
large bodies of police followed by special constables, the latter
bearing truncheons, but not looking very happy.

I heard a British captain making a deposition before the Consul, to the
effect that the mob had got on board his vessel and cruelly beaten his
coloured crew. As no British man-of-war was present, the French Admiral
was appealed to, who at once requested that all British ships with
coloured crews might be anchored under the guns of his frigate.

The reports of outrages, hangings, and murder, were now most alarming,
and terror and anxiety were universal. All shops were shut; all
carriages and omnibuses had ceased running. No coloured man or woman was
visible or safe in the streets, or even in his own dwelling. Telegraphs
were cut, and railroad tracks torn up. The draft was suspended, and the
mob evidently had the upper hand.

The people who can't pay $300 naturally hate being forced to fight in
order to liberate the very race who they are most anxious should be
slaves. It is their direct interest not only that all slaves should
remain slaves, but that the free Northern negroes who compete with them
for labour should be sent to the South also.

       *       *       *       *       *

_15th July_ (Wednesday).--The hotel this morning was occupied by
military, or rather by creatures in uniform. One of the sentries stopped
me; and on my remonstrating to his officer, the latter blew up the
sentry, and said, "You are only to stop persons in military dress--don't
you know what military dress is?" "No," responded this efficient
sentry--and I left the pair discussing the definition of a soldier. I
had the greatest difficulty in getting a conveyance down to the water. I
saw a stone barricade in the distance, and heard firing going on--and
was not at all sorry to find myself on board the China.




_POSTSCRIPT._


During my voyage home in the China I had an opportunity of discussing
with many intelligent Northern gentlemen all that I had seen in my
Southern travels. We did so in a very amicable spirit, and I think they
rendered justice to my wish to explain to them without exaggeration the
state of feeling amongst their enemies. Although these Northerners
belonged to quite the upper classes, and were not likely to be led
blindly by the absurd nonsense of the sensation press at New York, yet
their ignorance of the state of the case in the South was very great.

The recent successes had given them the impression that the last card
of the South was played. Charleston was about to fall; Mobile, Savannah,
and Wilmington would quickly follow; Lee's army, they thought, was a
disheartened, disorganised mob; Bragg's army in a still worse condition,
fleeing before Rosecrans, who would carry everything before him. They
felt confident that the fall of the Mississippian fortresses would
prevent communication from one bank to the other, and that the great
river would soon be open to peaceful commerce.

All these illusions have since been dispelled, but they probably still
cling to the idea of the great exhaustion of the Southern _personnel_.

But this difficulty of recruiting the Southern armies is not so great as
is generally supposed. As I have already stated, no Confederate soldier
is given his discharge from the army, however badly he may be wounded;
but he is employed at such labour in the public service as he may be
capable of performing, and his place in the ranks is taken by a sound
man hitherto exempted. The slightly wounded are cured as quickly as
possible, and are sent back at once to their regiments. _The women take
care of this._ The number actually killed, or who die of their wounds,
are the only total losses to the State, and these form but a small
proportion of the enormous butcher's bills, which seem at first so very
appalling.

I myself remember, with General Polk's corps, a fine-looking man who
had had both his hands blown off at the wrists by unskilful
artillery-practice in one of the early battles. A currycomb and brush
were fitted into his stumps, and he was engaged in grooming
artillery-horses with considerable skill. This man was called an
hostler; and, as the war drags on, the number of these handless hostlers
will increase. By degrees the clerks at the offices, the orderlies, the
railway and post-office officials, and the stage-drivers, will be
composed of maimed and mutilated soldiers. The number of exempted
persons all over the South is still very large, and they can easily be
exchanged for worn veterans. Besides this fund to draw upon, a
calculation is made of the number of boys who arrive each year at the
fighting age. These are all "panting for the rifle," but have been
latterly wisely forbidden the ranks until they are fit to undergo the
hardships of a military life. By these means, it is the opinion of the
Confederates that they can keep their armies recruited up to their
present strength for several years; and, if the worst comes to the
worst, they can always fall back upon their negroes as a last resort;
but I do not think they contemplate such a necessity as likely to arise
for a considerable time.

With respect to the supply of arms, cannon, powder, and military
stores, the Confederates are under no alarm whatever. Augusta furnishes
more than sufficient gunpowder; Atlanta, copper caps, &c. The Tredegar
works at Richmond, and other foundries, cast more cannon than is wanted;
and the Federal generals have always hitherto proved themselves the most
indefatigable purveyors of artillery to the Confederate Government, for
even in those actions which they claim as drawn battles or as victories,
such as Corinth, Murfreesborough, and Gettysburg, they have never failed
to make over cannon to the Southerners without exacting any in return.

My Northern friends on board the China spoke much and earnestly about
the determination of the North to crush out the Rebellion at any
sacrifice. But they did not show any disposition to _fight themselves_
in this cause, although many of them would have made most eligible
recruits; and if they had been Southerners, their female relations would
have made them enter the army whether their inclinations led them that
way or not.

I do not mention this difference of spirit by way of making any odious
comparisons between North and South in this respect, because I feel sure
that these Northern gentlemen would emulate the example of their enemy
if they could foresee any danger of a Southern Butler exercising his
infamous sway over Philadelphia, or of a Confederate Milroy ruling with
intolerable despotism in Boston, by withholding the necessaries of life
from helpless women with one hand, whilst tendering them with the other
a hated and absurd oath of allegiance to a detested Government.

But the mass of respectable Northerners, though they may be willing to
pay, do not very naturally feel themselves called upon to give their
blood in a war of aggression, ambition, and conquest; for this war is
essentially a war of conquest. If ever a nation did wage such a war, the
North is now engaged, with a determination worthy of a more hopeful
cause, in endeavouring to conquer the South; but the more I think of all
that I have seen in the Confederate States of the devotion of the whole
population, the more I feel inclined to say with General Polk--"How can
you subjugate such a people as this?" and even supposing that their
extermination were a feasible plan, as some Northerners have suggested,
I never can believe that in the nineteenth century the civilised world
will be condemned to witness the destruction of such a gallant race.


THE END.


PRINTED BY WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, EDINBURGH.




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|Transcriber's Note:                                              |
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|The following changes have been made in the text.                |
|                                                                 |
|Page 103, "cut of" changed to "cut off".                         |
|  (if he was not cut off by the enemy)                           |
|                                                                 |
|Page 124, "Tennesse" changed to "Tennessee".                     |
|  (as performed by General Polk in Tennessee)                    |
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|Page 180, "took me a drive" changed to "took me for a drive".    |
|  (This old gentleman took me for a drive)                       |
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|Page 227, "diffculty" changed to "difficulty".                   |
|  (We experienced considerable difficulty in carrying)           |
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|Unexpected use of punctuation and hyphens have been standardised.|
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