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PROFILES FROM CHINA

Sketches in Free Verse of People and Things Seen in the Interior

by

EUNICE TIETJENS

1917







To My Mother



CONTENTS

PROEM
  The Hand

FROM THE INTERIOR
  Cormorants
  A Scholar
  The Story Teller
  The Well
  The Abandoned God
  The Bridge
  The Shop
  My Servant
  The Feast
  The Beggar
  Interlude
  The City Wall
  Woman
  Our Chinese Acquaintance
  The Spirit Wall
  The Most-Sacred Mountain
  The Dandy
  New China: The Iron Works
  Spring
  Meditation
  Chinese New Year

ECHOES
  Crepuscule
  Festival of the Dragon Boats
  Kang Yi
  Poetics
  A Lament of Scarlet Cloud
  The Son of Heaven
  The Dream
  Fêng-Shui

CHINA OF THE TOURISTS
  Reflections in a Ricksha
  The Camels
  The Connoisseur: An American
  Sunday in the British Empire: Hong Kong
  On the Canton River Boat
  The Altar of Heaven
  The Chair Ride
  The Sikh Policeman: a British Subject
  The Lady of Easy Virtue: an American
  In the Mixed Court: Shanghai




Proem


Profiles
from
China


The Hand

As you sit so, in the firelight, your hand is the color of
    new bronze.
I cannot take my eyes from your hand;
In it, as in a microcosm, the vast and shadowy Orient
    is made visible.
Who shall read me your hand?

You are a large man, yet it is small and narrow, like the
    hand of a woman and the paw of a chimpanzee.
It is supple and boneless as the hands wrought in pigment
    by a fashionable portrait painter. The tapering
    fingers bend backward.
Between them burns a scented cigarette. You poise it
    with infinite daintiness, like a woman under the
    eyes of her lover. The long line of your curved
    nail is fastidiousness made flesh.

Very skilful is your hand.
With a tiny brush it can feather lines of ineffable suggestion,
    glints of hidden beauty. With a little
    tool it can carve strange dreams in ivory and
    milky jade.

And cruel is your hand.
With the same cold daintiness and skill it can devise
    exquisite tortures, eternities of incredible pain,
    that Torquemada never glimpsed.
And voluptuous is your hand, nice in its sense of touch.
Delicately it can caress a quivering skin, softly it can
    glide over golden thighs.... Bilitis had not
    such long nails.

Who can read me your hand?
In the firelight the smoke curls up fantastically from
    the cigarette between your fingers which are the
    color of new bronze.
The room is full of strange shadows.
I am afraid of your hand....


From
the
Interior

Cormorants


The boats of your masters are black;
They are filthy with the slimy filth of ages; like the
    canals on which they float they give forth an evil
    smell.
On soiled perches you sit, swung out on either side over
    the scummy water--you who should be savage
    and untamed, who should ride on the clean breath
    of the sea and beat your pinions in the strong
    storms of the sea.
Yet you are not held.
Tamely you sit and willingly, ten wretches to a boat,
    lurching and half asleep.

Around each throat is a ring of straw, a small ring, so
    that you may swallow only small things, such as
    your masters desire.
Presently, when you reach the lake, you will dive.
At the word of your masters the parted waters will
    close over you and in your ears will be the gurgling
    of yellow streams.
Hungrily you will search in the darkened void, swiftly
    you will pounce on the silver shadow....
Then you will rise again, bearing in your beak the
    struggling prey,
And your lousy lords, whose rings are upon your
    throats, will take from you the catch, giving in its
    place a puny wriggler which can pass the gates of
    straw.
Such is your servitude.

Yet willingly you sit, lurching and half asleep.
The boatmen shout one to another in nasal discords.
    Lazily you preen your great wings, eagle wings,
    built for the sky;
And you yawn....

Faugh! The sight of you sickens me, divers in inland
    filth!
You grow lousy like your lords,
For you have forgotten the sea.

  Wusih


A Scholar

You sit, chanting the maxims of Confucius.
On your head is a domed cap of black satin and your
    supple hands with their long nails are piously
    folded.
You rock to and fro rhythmically.
Your voice, rising and falling in clear nasal monosyllables,
    flows on steadily, monotonously, like the
    flowing of water and the flowering of thought.
You are chanting, it seems, of the pious conduct of man
    in all ages,
And I know you for a scoundrel.

None the less the maxims of Confucius are venerable,
    and your voice pleasant.
I listen attentively....

  Wusih


The Story Teller

In a corner of the market-place he sits, his face the target
    for many eyes.
The sombre crowd about him is motionless. Behind
    their faces no lamp burns; only their eyes glow
    faintly with a reflected light.
For their eyes are on his face.
It alone is alive, is vibrant, moving bronze under a sun
    of bronze.
The taut skin, like polished metal, shines along his
    cheek and jaw. His eyes cut upward from a slender
    nose, and his quick mouth moves sharply out
    and in.

Artful are the gestures of his mouth, elaborate and
    full of guile. When he draws back the bow of
    his lips his face is like a mask of lacquer, set with
    teeth of pearl, fantastic, terrible....
What strange tale lives in the gestures of his mouth?
Does a fox-maiden, bewitching, tiny-footed, lure a
    scholar to his doom? Is an unfilial son tortured
    of devils? Or does a decadent queen sport with
    her eunuchs?

I cannot tell.
The faces of the people are wooden; only their eyes
    burn dully with a reflected light.
I shall never know.
I am alien ... alien.

  Nanking


The Well

The Second Well under Heaven lies at the foot of the
    Sacred Mountain.
Perhaps the well is sacred because it is clean; or perhaps
    it is clean because it is sacred.
I cannot tell.

At the bottom of the well are coppers and coins with
    square holes in them, thrown thither by devout
    hands. They gleam enticingly through the shallow
    water.
The people crowd about the well, leaning brown covetous
    faces above the coping as my copper falls
    slantwise to rest.

Perhaps it will bring me luck, who knows?
It is a very sacred well.
Or perhaps, when it is quite dark, someone who is
    hungry....
Then the luck will be his!

  The Village of the Mud Idols


The Abandoned God

In the cold darkness of eternity he sits, this god who
    has grown old.
His rounded eyes are open on the whir of time, but
    man who made him has forgotten him.

Blue is his graven face, and silver-blue his hands. His
    eyebrows and his silken beard are scarlet as the
    hope that built him.
The yellow dragon on his rotting robes still rears itself
    majestically, but thread by thread time eats its
    scales away,
And man who made him has forgotten him.

For incense now he breathes the homely smell of rice
    and tea, stored in his anteroom;
For priests the busy spiders hang festoons between his
    fingers, and nest them in his yellow nails.
And darkness broods upon him.
The veil that hid the awful face of godhead from the
    too impetuous gaze of worshippers serves in decay
    to hide from deity the living face of man,
So god no longer sees his maker.

Let us drop the curtain and be gone!
I am old too, here in eternity.

  Pa-tze-kiao


The Bridge

The Bridge of the Eight Scholars spans the canal narrowly.
On the gray stone of its arch are carvings in low relief,
    and the curve of its span is pleasing to the eye.
No one knows how old is the Bridge of the Eight
    Scholars.

In our house-boat we pass under it. The boatman
    with the rat-like face twists the long broken-backed
    oar, churning the yellow water, and we creep forward
    steadily.
On the bridge the village is assembled. Foreign devils
    are a rarity.
The gold-brown faces are not unfriendly, merely curious.
    They peer in rows over the rail with grunts
    of nasal interest.
Tentatively, experimentally, as we pass they spit down
    upon us. Not that they wish us ill, but it can be
    done, and the temptation is too great.

We retire into the house-boat.
The roof scrapes as we pass under the span of the
    Bridge of the Eight Scholars.

  Pa-tze-kiao


The Shop

(The articles sold here are to be burned at funerals for
the use of the dead in the spirit world.)

The master of the shop is a pious man, in good odor
    with the priests.
He is old and honorable and his white moustache
    droops below his chin.
Mencius, I think, looked so.

The shop behind him is a mimic world, a world
    of pieties and shams--the valley of remembrance--the
    dwelling place of the unquiet dead.
Here on his shelves are ranged the splendor and the
    panoply of life, silk in smooth gleaming rolls, silver
    in ingots, carving and embroidery and jade, a
    scarlet bearer-chair, a pipe for opium....
Whatever life has need of, it is here,
And it is for the dead.

Whatever life has need of, it is here. Yet it is here in
    sham, in effigy, in tortured compromise.
The dead have need of silk. Yet silk is dear, and
    there are living backs to clothe.
The rolls are paper.... Do not look too close.

The dead I think will understand.
The carvings, too, the bearer-chair, the jade--yes,
    they are paper; and the shining ingots, they are
    tinsel.
Yet they are made with skill and loving care!
And if the priest knows--surely he must know!--
    when they are burned they'll serve the dead as
    well as verities.
So living mouths can feed.

The master of the shop is a pious man. He has attained
    much honor and his white moustache droops
    below his chin.
"Such an one" he says "I burned for my own father.
And such an one my son will burn for me.
For I am old, and half my life already dwells among
    the dead."

And, as he speaks, behind him in the shop I feel the
    presence of a hovering host, the myriads of the
    immortal dead, the rulers of the spirit in this
    land....

For in this kingdom of the dead they who are living
    cling with fevered hands to the torn fringes of the
    mighty past. And if they fail a little, compromise....

The dead I think will understand.

  Soochow


My Servant

The feet of my servant thump on the floor. _Thump,_
    they go, and _thump_--dully, deformedly.
My servant has shown me her feet.
The instep has been broken upward into a bony cushion.
    The big toe is pointed as an awl. The small
    toes are folded under the cushioned instep. Only
    the heel is untouched.
The thing is white and bloodless with the pallor of
    dead flesh.

But my servant is quite contented.
She smiles toothlessly and shows me how small are her
    feet, her "golden lilies."

_Thump_, they go, and _thump!_

  Wusih


The Feast

So this is the wedding feast!
The room is not large, but it is heavily crowded, filled
    with small tables, filled with many human bodies.
About the walls are paintings and banners in sharp
    colors; above our heads hang innumerable gaudy
    lanterns of wood and paper. We sit in furs,
    shivering with the cold.
The food passes endlessly, droll combinations in brown
    gravies--roses, sugar, and lard--duck and
    bamboo--lotus, chestnuts, and fish-eggs--an
    "eight-precious pudding."
They tempt curiosity; my chop-sticks are busy. The
    warm rice-wine trickles sparingly.

The groom is invisible somewhere, but the bride
    martyrs among us. She is clad in scarlet satin,
    heavily embroidered with gold. On her head is
    an edifice of scarlet and pearls.
For weeks, I know, she has wept in protest.
The feast-mother leads her in to us with sacrificial
    rites. Her eyes are closed, hidden behind her
    curtain of strung beads; for three days she will
    not open them. She has never seen the bridegroom.

At the feast she sits like her own effigy. She neither
    eats nor speaks.
Opposite her, across the narrow table, is a wall of
    curious faces, lookers-on--children and half-grown
    boys, beggars and what-not--the gleanings
    of the streets.
They are quiet but they watch hungrily.
To-night, when the bridegroom draws the scarlet curtains
    of the bed, they will still be watching
    hungrily....

Strange, formless memories out of books struggle upward
    in my consciousness. This is the marriage
    at Cana.... I am feasting with the Caliph
    at Bagdad.... I am the wedding guest who
    beat his breast....
My heart is troubled.
What shall be said of blood-brotherhood between man
    and man?

  Wusih


The Beggar

_Christ! What is that--that--Thing?
Only a beggar, professionally maimed, I think._

Across the narrow street it lies, the street where little
    children are.
It is rocking its body back and forth, back and forth,
    ingratiatingly, in the noisome filth.
Beside the body are stretched two naked stumps of
    flesh, on one the remnant of a foot. The wounds
    are not new wounds, but they are open and they
    fester. There are flies on them.
The Thing is whining, shrilly, hideously.

_Professionally maimed, I think._
Christ!

  Hwai Yuen


Interlude

It is going to be hot here.
Already the sun is treacherous and a dull mugginess is
    in the air. I note that winter clothes are shedding
    one by one.

In the market-place sits a coolie, expanding in the
    warmth.
He has opened his ragged upper garments and his
    bronze body is naked to the belt.
He is examining it minutely, occasionally picking at
    something with the dainty hand of the Orient.
If he had ever seen a zoological garden I should say
    he was imitating the monkeys there.
As he has not, I dare say the taste is ingrained.

At all events it is going to be hot here.

  The Village of the Mud Idols


The City Wall

About the city where I dwell, guarding it close, runs
    an embattled wall.
It was not new I think when Arthur was a king, and
    plumèd knights before a British wall made brave
    clangor of trumpets, that Launcelot came forth.
It was not new I think, and now not it but chivalry is
    old.

Without, the wall is brick, with slots for firing, and it
    drops straightway into the evil moat, where offal
    floats and nameless things are thrown.
Within, the wall is earth; it slants more gently down,
    covered with grass and stubbly with cut weeds.
    Below it in straw lairs the beggars herd, patiently
    whining, stretching out their sores.
And on the top a path runs.

As I walk, lifted above the squalor and the dirt, the
    timeless miracle of sunset mantles in the west,
The blue dusk gathers close
And beauty moves immortal through the land.
And I walk quickly, praying in my heart that beauty
    will defend me, will heal up the too great wounds
    of China.

I will not look--to-night I will not look--where at
    my feet the little coffins are,
The boxes where the beggar children lie, unburied
    and unwatched.
I will not look again, for once I saw how one was
    broken, torn by the sharp teeth of dogs. A little
    tattered dress was there, and some crunched
    bones....
I need not look. What can it help to look?

Ah, I am past!
And still the sunset glows.
The tall pagoda, like a velvet flower, blossoms against
    the sky; the Sacred Mountain fades, and in the
    town a child laughs suddenly.
I will hold fast to beauty! Who am I, that I should
    die for these?

I will go down. I am too sorely hurt, here on the
    city wall.

  Wusih


Woman

Strangely the sight of you moves me.
I have no standard by which to appraise you; the outer
    shell of you is all I know.
Yet irresistibly you draw me.

Your small plump body is closely clad in blue brocaded
    satin. The fit is scrupulous, yet no woman's figure
    is revealed. You are decorously shapeless.
Your satin trousers even are lined with fur.
Your hair is stiff and lustrous as polished ebony, bound
    at the neck in an adamantine knot, in which dull
    pearls are encrusted.

Your face is young and round and inscrutably alien.
Your complexion is exquisite, matte gold over-lying
    blush pink, textured like ripe fruit.
Your nose is flat, the perfect nose of China.
Your eyes--your eyes are witchery!
The blank curtain of your upper lid droops sharply on
    the iris, and when you smile the corners twinkle
    upward.
It is your eyes, I think, that move me.
They are so bright, so black!
They are alert and full of curiosity as the eyes of a
    squirrel, and like the eyes of a squirrel they have
    no depth behind them.
They are windows opening on a world as small as your
    bound feet, a world of ignorances, and vacuities,
    and kitchen-gods.

And yet your eyes are witchery. When you smile you
    are the woman-spirit, adorable.

I cannot appraise you, yet strangely the sight of you
    moves me.
I believe that I shall dream of you.

  Pa-tze-kiao


Our Chinese Acquaintance

We met him in the runway called a street, between the
    warrens known as houses.
He looked still the same, but his French-cut tweeds,
    his continental hat, and small round glasses were
    alien here.
About him we felt a troubled uncertainty.

He greeted us gladly. "It is good," he said in his
    soft French, "to see my foreign friends again.
You find our city dirty I am sure. On every stone
    dirt grows in China.
How the people crowd! The street is choked. _No
    jee ba_! Go away, curious ones! The ladies
    cannot breathe....
No, my people are not clean. They do not understand,
    I think. In Belgium where I studied--
    ... Yes, I was studying in Bruges, studying
    Christianity, when the great war came.
We, you know, love peace. I could not see....

"So I came home.

"But China is very dirty.... Our priests are rascals,
    and the people ... I do not know.

"Is there, perhaps, a true religion somewhere? The
    Greeks died too--and they were clean."
Behind his glasses his slant eyes were troubled.
"I do not know," he said.

  Wusih


The Spirit Wall

It stands before my neighbor's door, between him and
    the vegetable garden and the open toilet pots and
    the dirty canal.
Not that he wishes to hide these things.
On the contrary, he misses the view.
But China, you must understand, is full of evil spirits,
    demons of the earth and air, foxes and _shui-mang_
    devils, and only the priest knows what beside.
A man may at any moment be bewitched, so that his
    silk-worms die and his children go blind and he
    gets the devil-sickness.
So living is difficult.
But Heaven has providentially decreed that these evil
    spirits can travel only in a straight line. Around
    a corner their power evaporates.
So my neighbor has built a wall that runs before his
    door. Windows of course he has none.
He cannot see his vegetable garden, and his toilet pots,
    and the dirty canal.
But he is quite safe!

  Wusih


The Most-Sacred Mountain

Space, and the twelve clean winds of heaven,
And this sharp exultation, like a cry, after the slow
    six thousand steps of climbing!
This is Tai Shan, the beautiful, the most holy.

Below my feet the foot-hills nestle, brown with flecks
    of green; and lower down the flat brown plain, the
    floor of earth, stretches away to blue infinity.
Beside me in this airy space the temple roofs cut their
    slow curves against the sky,
And one black bird circles above the void.

Space, and the twelve clean winds are here;
And with them broods eternity--a swift, white peace,
    a presence manifest.
The rhythm ceases here. Time has no place. This
    is the end that has no end.

Here when Confucius came, a half a thousand years
    before the Nazarene, he stepped, with me, thus
    into timelessness.
The stone beside us waxes old, the carven stone that
    says: _On this spot once Confucius stood and
    felt the smallness of the world below._

The stone grows old.
Eternity
Is not for stones.

But I shall go down from this airy space, this swift
    white peace, this stinging exultation;
And time will close about me, and my soul stir to the
    rhythm of the daily round.
Yet, having known, life will not press so close, and
    always I shall feel time ravel thin about me;
For once I stood
In the white windy presence of eternity.

  Tai Shan


The Dandy

He swaggers in green silk and his two coats are lined
    with fur. Above his velvet shoes his trim, bound
    ankles twinkle pleasantly.
His nails are of the longest.
Quite the glass of fashion is Mr. Chu!
In one slim hand--the ultimate punctilio--dangles
    a bamboo cage, wherein a small brown bird sits
    with a face of perpetual surprise.
Mr. Chu smiles the benevolent smile of one who satisfies
    both fashion and a tender heart.
Does not a bird need an airing?

  Wusih


New China: The Iron Works

The furnaces, the great steel furnaces, tremble and
    glow; gigantic machinery clanks, and in living
    iridescent streams the white-hot slag pours out.
This is to-morrow set in yesterday, the west imbedded
    in the east, a graft but not a growth.

And you who walk beside me, picking your familiar way
    between the dynamos, the cars, the piles of rails--
    you too are of to-morrow, grafted with an alien
    energy.
You wear the costume of the west, you speak my
    tongue as one who knows; you talk casually of
    Sheffield, Pittsburgh, Essen....
You touch on Socialism, walk-outs, and the industrial
    population of the British Isles.
Almost you might be one of us.

And then I ask:
"How much do those poor coolies earn a day, who
    take the place of carts?"
You shrug and smile.
"Eighteen coppers. Something less than eight cents
    in your money. They are not badly paid. They
    do not die."

Again I ask:
"And is it true that you've a Yâmen, a police judge,
    all your own?"
Another shrug and smile.
"Yes, he attends to all small cases of disorder. For
    larger crimes we pass the offender over to the
    city courts."

       *       *       *       *       *

"Conditions" you explain as we sit later with a cup
    of tea, "conditions here are difficult."
Your figure has grown lax, your voice a little weary.
    You are fighting, I can see, upheld by that strange
    graft of western energy.
Yet odds are heavy, and the Orient is in your blood.
    Your voice is weary.
"There are no skilled laborers" you say, "Among
    the owners no coöperation.
It is like--like working in a nightmare, here in China.
    It drags at me, it drags"....
You bow me out with great civility.
The furnaces, the great steel furnaces, tremble and
    glow, gigantic machinery clanks and in living
    iridescent streams the white-hot slag pours out.

Beyond the gate the filth begins again.
A beggar rots and grovels, clutching at my skirt with
    leprous hands. A woman sits sorting hog-bristles;
    she coughs and sobs.

The stench is sickening.

_To-morrow!_ did they say?

  Hanyang


Spring

The toilet pots are very loud today.
It is spring and the warmth is highly favorable to fermentation.
    Some odors are unbelievable.

At the corner of my street is an especially fragrant
    reservoir. It is three feet in diameter, set flush
    with the earth, and well filled.
Above it squats a venerable Chinaman with a face such
    as Confucius must have worn.
His silk skirt is gathered daintily about his waist, and
    his rounded rear is suspended in mid-air over the
    broken pottery rim.
He gazes at me contemplatively as I pass with eyes in
    which the philosophy of the ages has its dwelling.

I wonder whether he too feels the spring.

  Wusih


Meditation

In all the city where I dwell two spaces only are wide
    and clean.
One is the compound about the great church of the
    mission within the wall; the other is the courtyard
    of the great factory beyond the wall.
In these two, one can breathe.

And two sounds there are, above the multitudinous crying
    of the city, two sounds that recur as time recurs--the
    great bell of the mission and the
    whistle of the factory.
Every hour of the day the mission bell strikes, clear,
    deep-toned--telling perhaps of peace.
And in the morning and in the evening the factory
    whistle blows, shrill, provocative--telling surely
    of toil.
Now, when the mulberry trees are bare and the wintry
    wind lifts the rags of the beggars, the day shift
    at the factory is ten hours, and the night shift
    is fourteen.
They are divided one from the other by the whistle,
    shrill, provocative.
The mission and the factory are the West. What
    they are I know.

And between them lies the Orient--struggling and
    suffering, spawning and dying--but what it is
    I shall never know.

Yet there are two clean spaces in the city where I dwell,
    the compound of the church within the wall, and
    the courtyard of the factory beyond the wall.
It is something that in these two one can breathe.

  Wusih


Chinese New Year

Mrs. Sung has a new kitchen-god.
The old one--he who has presided over the household
    this twelvemonth--has returned to the
    Celestial Regions to make his report.
Before she burned him Mrs. Sung smeared his mouth
    with sugar; so that doubtless the report will be
    favorable.
Now she has a new god.
As she paid ten coppers for him he is handsomely
    painted and should be highly efficacious.
So there is rejoicing in the house of Mrs. Sung.

  Peking


Echoes


Crepuscule

Like the patter of rain on the crisp leaves of autumn
    are the tiny footfalls of the fox-maidens.


Festival of the Dragon Boats

On the fifth day of the fifth month the statesman Küh
    Yuen drowned himself in the river Mih-lo.
Since then twenty-three centuries have passed, and the
    mountains wear away.
Yet every year, on the fifth day of the fifth month,
    the great Dragon Boats, gay with flags and gongs,
    search diligently in the streams of the Empire
    for the body of Küh Yuen.


Kang Yi

When Kang Yi had been long dead the Empress decreed
    upon him posthumous decapitation, so that
    he walks for ever disgraced among the shades.


Poetics

While two ladies of the Imperial harem held before
    him a screen of pink silk, and a P'in Concubine
    knelt with his ink-slab, Li Po, who was very
    drunk, wrote an impassioned poem to the moon.


A Lament of Scarlet Cloud

O golden night, lit by the flame of seven stars, the
    years have drunk you too.


The Son of Heaven

Like this frail and melancholy rain is the memory of
    the Emperor Kuang-Hsü, and of his sufferings at
    the hand of Yehonala.
Yet under heaven was there found no one to avenge
    him.
Now he has mounted the Dragon and has visited the
    Nine Springs. His betrayer sits upon the Dragon
    Throne.

Yet among the shades may he not take comfort from
    the presence of his Pearl Concubine?


The Dream

When he had tasted in a dream of the Ten Courts of
    Purgatory, Doctor Tsêng was humbled in spirit,
    and passed his life in piety among the foot-hills.


Fêng-Shui

At the Hour of the Horse avoid raising a roof-tree,
    for by the trampling of his hoofs it may
    be beaten down;
And at the Hour of the cunning Rat go not near a
    soothsayer, for by his cunning he may mislead
    the oracle, and the hopes of the enquirer come
    to naught.


China
of
the
Tourists


Reflections in a Ricksha

This ricksha is more comfortable than some.
The springs are not broken, and the seat is covered
    with a white cloth.
Also the runner is young and sturdy, and his legs flash
    pleasantly.
I am not ill at ease.

The runner interests me.
Between the shafts he trots easily and familiarly, lifting
    his knees prettily and holding his shoulders
    steady.
His hips are lean and narrow as a filly's; his calves
    might have posed for Praxiteles.
He is a modern, I perceive, for he wears no queue.
Above a rounded neck rises a shock of hair the shade
    of dusty coal. Each hair is stiff and erect as a
    brush bristle. There are lice in them no doubt--
    but then perhaps we of the West are too squeamish
    in details of this minor sort.
What interests me chiefly is the back of his ears. Not
    that they are extraordinary as ears; it is their
    very normality that touches me. I find them
    smaller than those of a horse, but undoubtedly
    near of kin.

There is no denying the truth of evolution;
Yet as a beast of burden man is distinctly inferior.

It is odd.
At home I am a democrat. A republic, a true republic,
    seems not improbable, a fighting dream.
Yet beholding the back of the ears of a trotting man
    I perceive it to be impossible--the millennium
    another million years away.
I grow insufferably superior and Anglo-Saxon.
I am sorry, but what would you?
One is what one is.

  Hankow


The Camels

Whence do you come, and whither make return, you
    silent padding beasts?
Over the mountain passes; through the Great Wall; to
    Kalgan--and beyond, whither?...

Here in the city you are alien, even as I am alien.
Your sidling jaw, your pendulous neck--incredible--and
    that slow smile about your eyes and lip,
    these are not of this land.
About you some far sense of mystery, some tawny
    charm, hangs ever.
Silently, with the dignity of the desert, your caravans
    move among the hurrying hordes, remote and
    slowly smiling.

But whence are you, and whither do you make return?
Over the mountain passes; through the Great Wall; to
    Kalgan--and beyond, whither?...

  Peking


The Connoisseur: An American

He is not an old man, but he is lonely.
He who was born in the clash of a western city dwells
    here, in this silent courtyard, alone.
Seven servants he has, seven men-servants. They
    move about quietly and their slippered feet make
    no sound. Behind their almond eyes move green,
    sidelong shadows, and their limber hands are
    never still.
In his house the riches of the Orient are gathered.
Ivory he has, carved in a thousand quaint, enticing
    shapes--pleasant to the hand, smooth with the
    caressing of many fingers.
And jade is there, dark green and milky white, with
    amber from Korea and strange gems--beryl,
    chrysoprase, jasper, sardonyx....
His lacquered shelves hold priceless pottery--peachblow
    and cinnabar and silver grey--pottery
    glazed like the new moon, fired how long ago
    for a moon-pale princess of the East, whose very
    name is dust!

In his vaults are incredible textures and colors that
    vibrate like struck jade.

Stiff with gold brocade they are, or soft as the coat of
    a fawn--these sacred robes of a long dead priest,
    silks of a gold-skinned courtesan, embroideries of
    a lost throne.
When he unfolds them the shimmering heaps are like
    living opals, burning and moving darkly with the
    warm breath of beauty.

And other priceless things the collector has, so that
    in many days he could not look upon them all.
Every morning his seven men-servants dress him, and
    every evening they undress him. Behind their
    almond eyes move green sidelong shadows.
In this silent courtyard the collector lives.
He is not an old man but he is lonely.

  Peking


Sunday in the British Empire: Hong Kong

In the aisle of the cathedral it lies, an army rifle of
    the latest type.
It is laid on the black and white mosaic, between the
    carved oaken pews and the strip of brown carpet
    in the aisle.
A crimson light from the stained-glass window yonder
    glints on the blue steel of its barrel, and the
    khaki of its shoulder-strap blends with the brown
    of the carpet.

The stiff backs of its owner and a hundred like him
    are very still.
The vested choir chants prettily.
Then the bishop speaks:
"O God, who art the author of peace and lover of
    concord,... defend us thy humble servants
    in all assaults of our enemies."
"Amen!" say the owners of the khaki backs.

The light has shifted a little. On the blue steel barrel
    of the rifle the glint is turquoise now.
That will be from the robe of the shepherd in the window
    yonder, He of the quiet eyes....

  Hong Kong


On the Canton River Boat

Up and down, up and down, paces the sentry.
He is dressed in a uniform of khaki and his socks are
    green. Over his shoulder is slung a rifle, and
    from his belt hang a pistol and cartridge pouch.
He is, I think, Malay and Chinese mixed.

Behind him the rocky islands, hazed in blue, the yellow
    sun-drenched water, the tropic shore, pass as a
    background in a dream.
He only is sweltering reality.
Yet he is here to guard against a nightmare, an
    anachronism, something that I cannot grasp.
He is guarding me from pirates.

Piracy! The very name is fantastic in my ears, colored
    like a toucan in the zoo.
And yet the ordinance is clear: "Four armed guards,
    strong metal grills behind the bridge, the engine-room
    enclosed--in case of piracy."

The socks of the sentry are green.
Up and down, up and down he paces, between the
    bridge and the first of the life-boats.
In my deck chair I grow restless.

Am I then so far removed from life, so wrapped in
    cotton wool, so deep-sunk in the soft lap of civilization,
    that I cannot feel the cold splash of truth?
It is a disquieting thought--for certainly piracy seems
    as fantastic as ever.

The socks of the sentry annoy me. They are _too_
    green for so hot a day.
And his shoes squeak.
I should feel much cooler if he wouldn't pace so.
Piracy!

  Somewhere on the River


The Altar of Heaven

Beneath the leaning, rain-washed sky this great white
    circle--beautiful!

In three white terraces the circle lies, piled one on
    one toward Heaven. And on each terrace the
    white balustrade climbs in aspiring marble, etched
    in cloud.
And Heaven is very near.
For this is worship native as the air, wide as the
    wind, and poignant as the rain,
Pure aspiration, the eternal dream.

Beneath the leaning sky this great white circle!

  Peking


The Chair Ride

The coolies lift and strain;
My chair creaks rhythmically.
It is not yet morning and the live darkness pushes
    about us, a greedy darkness that has swallowed
    even the stars.
In all the world there is left only my chair, with the
    tiny horn lantern before it.
There are also, it is true, the undersides of trees in
    the lantern-light and the stony path that flows
    past ceaselessly.
But these things flit and change.
Only I and the chair and the darkness are permanent.
    We have been moving so since time was in the
    womb.

The seat of my chair is of wicker.
It is not unlike an invalid chair, and I, in it, am swaddled
    like an invalid, wrapped in layer on layer
    of coddling wool.
But there are no wheels to my chair. I ride on the
    steady feet of four queued coolies.
The tramp of their lifted shoes is the rhythm of being,
    throbbing in me as my own heart throbs.

Save for their feet the bearers are silent. They move
    softly through the live darkness. But now and
    again I am shifted skilfully from one shoulder to
    the other.

The breath of the coolies is short.
They strain, and in spite of the cold I know they are
    sweating.
It is wicked of course!
My five dollars ought not to buy life.
But it is all they understand;
And even I am not precisely comfortable.

The darkness is thinning a little.
On either side loom featureless black hills, their summits
    sharp and ragged.
The Great Wall is somewhere hereabouts.

My chair creaks rhythmically.
In another year it will be day.

  Ching-lung-chiao


The Sikh Policeman: A British Subject

Of what, I wonder, are you thinking?
It is something beyond my world I know, something
    that I cannot guess.
Yet I wonder.

Of nothing Chinese can you be thinking, for you hate
    them with an automatic hatred--the hatred of
    the well-fed for the starved, of the warlike for
    the weak.
When they cross you, you kick them, viciously, with
    the drawing back of your silken beard, your
    black, black beard, from your white teeth.
With a snarl you kick them, sputtering curses in short
    gutturals.
You do not even speak their tongue, so it cannot be
    of them you are thinking.

Yet neither do you speak the tongue of the master
    whom you serve.
No more do you know of us the "Masters" than you
    know of them the "dogs."
We are above you, they below.
And between us you stand, guarding the street, erect
    and splendid, lithe and male. Your scarlet turban
    frames your neat black head,
And you are thinking.

Or are you?
Perhaps we only are stung with thought.
I wonder.

  Shanghai


The Lady of Easy Virtue: An American

_Lotus_,
So they called your name.
Yet the green swelling pod, the fruit-like seeds and
    heavy flower, are nothing like to you.
Rather, like a pitcher plant you are, for hope and all
    young wings are drowned in you.

Your slim body, here in the café, moves brightly in
    and out. Green satin, and a dance, white wine
    and gleaming laughter, with two nodding earrings--these
    are Lotus.
And in the painted eyes cold steel, and on the lips a
    vulgar jest;
Hands that fly ever to the coat lapels, familiar to
    the wrists and to the hair of men. These too
    are Lotus.
And what more--God knows!

You too perhaps were stranded here, like these poor
    homesick boys, in this great catch-all where the
    white race ends, this grim Shanghai that like a
    sieve hangs over filth and loneliness.
You were caught here like these, and who could live,
    young and so slender--in Shanghai?
Green satin, and a gleaming throat, and painted eyes
    of steel,
Hunter or hunted,
Peace be with you,
_Lotus_!

  Shanghai


In the Mixed Court: Shanghai

Two men sit in judgment on their fellows.
Side by side they sit, raised on the pedestal of the law,
   at grips with squalor and ignorance.
They are civilization--and they are very grave.

One of them is of my own people, a small man, definite,
    hard-featured, an accurate weapon of small
    calibre.
Of the other I cannot judge.
He is heavily built, and when he is still the dignity of
    the Orient is about him like his robe. His head
    is large and beautifully domed, his hands tapering
    and aristocratic.
When he speaks it is of subtleties.
But when he speaks his dignity drops from him. His
    eyes shift quickly from one end of their little slit
    to the other, his mouth, his full brown mouth,
    moves over-fast, his hands flicker back and forth.

The courtroom is crowded with ominous yellow poverty.
The cases are of many sorts.
A woman, she of the little tortured feet and sullen face,
    has kidnapped a small boy to sell. A man was
    caught smuggling opium. A tea-merchant, in
    dark green silk, complains that he was decoyed
    and held prisoner in a lodging-house for ransom.
    A gambling den has been raided and the ivory
    dominoes are shown in court.
The prisoners are stoically sullen. The odor of them
    fills the room.

Above them sit the two men, raised on the pedestal
    of the law, judging their fellows.
I turn to the man beside me, waiting his case.
"Tell me" I ask "of these men, which is the better
    judge?"
He answers carefully.
"The Chinaman is cleverer by half. He sees where
    the other is blind. But Chinese magistrates are
    bought, and this one sells himself too cheap."
"And the other?" I ask again.
"A good man, and quite honest. You see he doesn't
    care."

The judges put their heads together. They are civilization
    and they are very grave.
What, I wonder, is civilization?

  Shanghai