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THE LADY'S ALBUM OF FANCY WORK FOR 1850

Consisting of Novel, Elegant, and Useful Designs in
Knitting, Netting, Crochet, Braiding, and Embroidery
with Clear and Explicit Directions for Working the Patterns







ADDRESS

Encouraged by the kind welcome which greeted their former efforts to
provide a volume worthy the attention of the ladies of the United
Kingdom, the Publishers of the _Lady's Album of Fancy-Work_ have issued
a similar production for 1850. Solicitous to preserve the favourable
consideration so flatteringly accorded, every care has been taken to
render the _Lady's Album of fancy-Work_ for 1850 as attractive and
useful as possible; no expense has been spared in its artistic
illustration, letterpress, and embellishment; and it will be found an
elegant ornament in the drawing-room as well as a useful ally at the
work-table. The patterns and designs are of the most useful and varied
character: specimens are given of each style of work recently invented;
and no article either of ornament or use at present in fashion is
omitted.

The exercise of the needle has been from time immemorial a favourite
occupation with the females of every country; and the allusions to the
subject from cotemporary historians and poets evince that this feminine
pursuit was regarded with approval and respect. The invention of
embroidery is ascribed to the Phrygians; and we also learn from ancient
authors, that the Sidonians particularly excelled in this beautiful art
of decorative needlework; it must have also made considerable progress
in the country soon after the Norman Conquest, from the accounts that
are recorded of the robes embroidered in gold and silver, generally worn
by persons of rank at that period. The Bayeux Tapestry also remains to
us as a lasting trophy of the skill and industry of Queen Matilda and
the ladies of her court, and is not more interesting as a historical
record than as a specimen of the needlework of the mediæval age. The
introduction of knitting into this country is comparatively of modern
date; so late as the middle of the sixteenth century. The invention of
the art is usually ascribed to the Spaniards; though the Scotch, with
some appearance of justice, assert their claims as its originators. Like
all inventions, knitting has undergone wonderful improvements since it
was first simply used for stocking-making: and the value attached to
stockings so made may be judged from the fact, that a pair were deemed a
fitting present from one sovereign to another. A pair of knitted hose
was amongst the gifts received by that lover of finery, Queen Elizabeth;
but no record remains to shew if these were preserved with the three
thousand robes which were found after her death in the wardrobe of
England's Maiden Queen.

The love for domestic occupations, which is so admirable a trait in the
character of our countrywomen, has often been a subject of gratulation;
and that female ingenuity and skill may continue to be employed in
embellishing the drawing-room, rather than in directing the political
intrigues of the _salon_, must be desired by all interested in the
preservation of those domestic attributes which give so pleasing a charm
to home, and secure the comfort of all around.

The taste which her Majesty Queen Victoria evinces for feminine pursuits
and occupations has naturally exercised considerable influence in
preserving habits of industry amongst her female subjects; and to her
Majesty's example, and that of the amiable Queen Dowager, may be
ascribed that the labours of the English embroideress are now justly
appreciated, and her work esteemed as in no respects inferior to the
produce of foreign ingenuity.

In expressing their thanks for the patronage extended to the _Lady's
Album of Fancy-Work_ for 1849, the Publishers take leave to state that
the present Volume contains designs and patterns for various articles in
Embroidery, Braid-Work, Crochet, Knitting, Netting, Ribbon-Work,
Scagliola, and Indian Ornamental Work; all of which are executed and
engraved in a style of unusual superiority. Each pattern is accompanied
with plain and explicit directions; and it is hoped that their execution
will afford many hours of pleasurable employment to the fair and
industrious votaress of the needle.




CONTENTS.


       Explanation of the various Terms used in Crochet
       General Instructions for Embroidery

    1. Front for Lady's Cabinet (Embroidery)

    2. Cover for Cake-basket (Netting)

    3. Infant's Bonnet (Crochet)

    4. Lace for Pocket-handkerchief (Crochet)

    5. Elizabethan Watch-hook (Crochet)

    8. Music-stool Cover (Crochet)

    9. Cover for Album (Embroidery)

   10. Serviette for Cruet-stand (Crochet)

   11. Screen (Embroidery)

   12. A Long Purse in Honeycomb Pattern (Netting)

   13. German Knitting-bag (Crochet)

   14. Cigar-case (Embroidery)

   15. Collar au Feston (Embroidery)

   16. Card-case (Scagliola Work)

   19. Claret-jug Mat (Embroidery)

   20, 21. Corner for Handkerchief (Embroidery)

   22. Cover for Easy-chair (Crochet)

   23. Lady's Reticule (Crochet)

   24. Spectacle-case (Scagliola Work)

   25. Toilet-cushion (Crochet)

   26. Bonnet-preserver (Knitting)

   27. Small Ottoman (Embroidery)

   28. Card-basket (Crochet)

   29. Raised Crochet Collar (Crochet)

   30. A Chess-board (Scagliola Work)

   31. Garniture for Toilet-basket (Crochet)

   32. Greek Cap (Embroidery)

   33. Flower-stand (Crochet)

   34. Cover for Tassel of Window-blind (Crochet)

   35. Under-sleeve (Crochet)

   36. Smoking Cap (Embroidery in Braid)

   37. Baby's Cap (Crochet)

   38. Lace for Cap (Crochet)

   39. Apron (Embroidery)

   42. Limerick Lace Scarf (Tambour)

   45. A Knitting-bag (Netting)

   48. Vase-stand (Netting)

   49. Watch-pocket (Braid)

   50. Mitten (Crochet)

   51. Collar (Crochet)

   52. Centre of a Cover for Music-book or Portfolio (Embroidery)

   53. Winter Head-dress (Crochet)

   54. "Baboche," or Ornament for Candles

   55. Chess-board (Scagliola Work)

   56. D'oyley (Crochet)

   57. Gauntlet Cuff (Crochet)

   58. Liqueur-stand Mat (Embroidery)

   61. Border for a Lace Scarf or Veil (Crochet Appliqué)

   62. Card-case (Crochet)

   63. Round Collar (Crochet)

   64. Prince of Wales's Plume (Embroidery)

   65. Pattern for Window-curtains (Netting)

   66. Gentleman's Braces (Embroidery)

   67. Toilet-cushion (Embroidery)

   68. The Helen Cap (Netting)

   69. Screen (Indian Ornamental Work)

   70. Heartsease (Knitting)

   71. Serviette for Liqueur-stand (Crochet)

   72. A New and Elegant Work for
           Sofa-pillows, Card-baskets, &c. (Ribbon Work)

   73. Lady's Silk Mitten (Crochet)

   74. Couvrette for Devotional Chair (Netting)

   75. Sachet (Embroidery)

   76. Pen-wiper (Embroidery in Braid)

   77. Pattern for Footstool or Cushion (Berlin Work)

   78. A Mat for a Flower-vase (Crochet)

   79, 80. Lady's Slipper (Embroidery in Braid)





EXPLANATION OF THE VARIOUS TERMS USED IN CROCHET.


CHAIN-STITCH OPEN CROCHET.--This consists of five or any uneven number
of loops attached by a plain stitch to every third stitch of the
foundation, and in the succeeding rows to the centre loop of the chain
of previous row.

THREE CHAIN CROCHET.--Work a chain of three loops as in chain-stitch
open crochet.

DOUBLE CROCHET.--Work as follows: having made a chain, pass the needle
through the first loop on the chain, draw the cotton through the loop,
there will now be two loops on the needle, through these draw the
cotton.

SINGLE CROCHET.--Insert the needle in the loops, and draw the cotton
through this loop and that on the needle.

RIBBED CROCHET.--This is worked in a similar manner to double crochet,
only that the under loop of the previous row is taken, and it is done in
rows to and fro.

LONG STITCH.--Twist the cotton round the needle, pass it through the
loop, draw the cotton through the first two loops on the needle, then
catch the cotton again and draw it through the next two loops; there
will be one loop left on the needle.

DOUBLE LONG STITCH.--This resembles long stitch, excepting that the
cotton is twisted twice round the needle.

TREBLE LONG STITCH.--Twist the cotton three times round the needle.

SINGLE OPEN CROCHET.--This is a succession of long stitches, with a
chain-stitch between each, missing one stitch of the foundation; in the
succeeding rows the long stitch is worked between the two long stitches
of the preceding rows.

DOUBLE OPEN CROCHET.--This consists of two long stitches, then two
chain-stitches; or it may be varied by making one long stitch, two
chain-stitches, missing the same number of stitches in foundation as
there are chain-stitches.

TREBLE OPEN CROCHET.--Work three long stitches, then three chain,
missing three of the foundation.

VANDYKE OPEN CROCHET.--Work three long stitches into one of the
foundation, make one chain-stitch, miss three of the foundation; repeat.
In the next and following rows the long stitches are worked in the
chain-stitch.

       *       *       *       *       *

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR EMBROIDERY.

The various elegant designs for handkerchiefs, jupons, shirts, &c. are
worked in raised satin stitch. The material used is French
working-cotton; numbers 100 or 120 will be found suitable for most
purposes, but this must be regulated by the quality of the cambric.
Handkerchiefs embroidered in colours continue to be extremely
fashionable; the patterns in the _Lady's Album_ are of the most novel
description, and quite suitable for this style of work. The names and
initial letters are worked in satin-stitch, sewing over the lines.




THE

LADY'S ALBUM

OF

FANCY NEEDLEWORK.

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY.

1. FRONT FOR LADY'S CABINET.

_Materials--Black satin; six shades of crimson, five shades of yellow,
three shades of puce, two shades of scarlet, three shades of
yellow-greens, three shades of blue-greens, and two shades of brown
embroidery silk, or of chenille_.


Draw the design upon the satin, frame the work, and work in
embroidery-stitch. The rose-leaves with the yellow-greens, the leaves of
thistles with the blue-greens, the stems with brown, the thistle and bud
of thistle with the shades of puce, working the centre of the former
with the shades of scarlet.

Work the rose on the right hand of thistle with the four darkest shades
of crimson, and that on the left and the buds with the four lightest
shades. Work the remaining rose with the yellow shades. Work the designs
for corners in a similar manner, shading according to the taste of the
worker.

The above design is adapted for the front or door of a small rosewood or
an inlaid ebony cabinet, suitable for a lady's boudoir or dressing-room.
It looks well if worked upon white instead of black satin; and if the
former is used, it is advisable to have plate-glass as a protection to
the needlework.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 1. FRONT FOR LADY'S CABINET.]

[Illustration: No. 2 COVER FOR CAKE-BASKET.]

       *       *       *       *       *




NETTING.

2. COVER FOR CAKE-BASKET.

_Materials--Raworth's crochet-thread No. 40, darning-cotton No. 12,
meshes Nos. 4 and 9, cornucopia gauge_.


With the crochet-thread make a foundation by netting 33 loops on the
large mesh, join and net 6 rounds on mesh No. 9, then on mesh No. 4 net
4 loops in one, missing every alternate loop; net 7 rounds on mesh No.
9, then on the large mesh net 4 loops in one, missing, as before,
every alternate loop; net 15 rounds on the small mesh, net 4 loops in
every alternate loop on the large mesh, then net 24 rounds on mesh No.
9; (a) net 24 loops, then net back, leaving the last of the 24 loops:
continue netting these loops to and fro, decreasing one loop at the end
of each row by leaving the last loop, and net until but one loop
remains; repeat from (a) all round. This forms the scalloped edge.

With the cotton embroider the pattern in darning-stitch, as given in
illustration.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

3. INFANT'S BONNET.

_Materials--Drab crochet-thread and a middle-sized hook_.


Make a chain of 9 stitches; unite and work three rounds in double
crochet, increasing in every loop in the first round, in every alternate
in the second, and in every third in the third round.

_4th round_. 1 l, 1 ch worked in every loop of previous round.--

_5th round_. 1 l worked in 1 l of last round, 2 ch; repeat.--

_6th round_. 1 l in the 1 l, 3 ch; repeat.--

_7th round_. Double crochet.--

_8th round_. Double crochet, increasing in every eighth stitch.--

_9th round_. Double crochet, increasing as before; repeat from fourth
round four times, then work 1 l, 2 ch, miss 2 three times, then three
rounds of double crochet without increasing; work these last six rounds
three more times. This completes the bonnet.

_For the Roll_.--Make a chain the width required; work three rows in
double crochet; three rows 1 l, 2 ch, miss 2; after which work
alternately three rows of double crochet; three rows 1 l, 2 ch, miss 2,
increasing a stitch at the beginning and end of each row; these six rows
may be repeated five more times, or till the size wished for is worked.
Make up the bonnet on a foundation covered with blue silk, form the roll
for the edge with wadding, trim with a small plume of blue feathers, or
a rosette of blue ribbon.

The above directions are for a bonnet for an infant of five or six
months old, but by increasing the number of rounds and rows for the roll
a larger size may be worked.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

4. LACE FOR POCKET-HANDKERCHIEF.

_Material--Raworth's crochet-thread No. 70_.


Work a chain the required length; d c. into every stitch of this
chain.--

_2d row_. 1 d l s, * 3 c s, miss 3; 1 d l s into fourth; repeat from
*.--

_3d row_. 12 c s, s c into d l s; * 12 c s, miss 1 d l s, s c into
second d l s; repeat from *.--

_4th row_. Begin on centre of loop of 12; * 16 c s, s c round the same
loop, close to first stitch; 12 c s, s c round centre of next loop;
repeat from *.

_5th row_. Commence on centre of 12 c s in last row; * 9 c s, s c into
top of 16 c s; 9 c s, s c into centre of 12 c s; repeat from *.--_6th
row_. 1 d c, 3 l s, 1 d c round every 9 c s in last row.--

_7th row_. Commence on centre of 3 l s; * 13 c s, s c into same stitch
to form a ring; d c round this seventeen times; 12 c s, miss 1, scallop,
s c into second scallop; repeat from *.--

_8th row_. Commence on top stitch of 17 d c, round the ring in last row;
* 8 c s, s c into same stitch; 8 c s, d c round centre of next loop of
12 c s; 8 c s, s c into centre stitch of ring; repeat from *.--

_9th row_. Begin in small loop at top of ring; 8 c s, 1 l s into same
small loop; * 5 c s, s c into fifth of 8 c s in last row; 5 c s, s c
into fourth of next loop of 8 c s; 5 c s, 1 l s into top loop; 5 c s, 1
l s into same loop; repeat from *.--

_10th row_. Begin in small loop at top of former small loop; * 11 c s, s
c into next small loop; repeat from *.--

_11th row_. Begin on centre of 11 c s; * 7 c s, 1 t l s into same
stitch; 6 c s, 1 s c into last part of t l s; 7 c s, s c into first
stitch of the row; 12 c s, s c into centre of next 11 c s *; repeat from
* to *.--

_12th row_. 9 c s, d into small loop of 6 c s; repeat.--

_13th row_. 7 c s, s c into centre of 9 c s; repeat.--

_14th row_. 7 c s, s c into centre of 7 c s; repeat.--

_15th row_. * 9 c s, 1 l s round 7 c s; 9 c s, 1 l s round same loop of
7; 9 c s, 1 s c into same loop; 10 c s, miss 1 loop of 7 c s, s c round
next loop; repeat from *.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

5. ELIZABETHAN WATCH-HOOK.

_Materials--Half-an-ounce of pink four-thread Berlin wool, half-an-ounce
of white ditto, four yards of cord, and a pair of pearl watch-hooks_.


With pink work in double crochet over the cord a circle of three inches
and a half diameter; there should be 140 stitches round the edge, on
which work the border, thus:--

_1st row white_. Work 1 stitch in open crochet, 1 chain, miss 1 of the
foundation; repeat.--

_2d row white_. Work two treble long stitches into every space, 1 chain
stitch between each.--

_3d row pink_. Work 1 open crochet into every space, 1 chain; repeat.--

_4th row pink_. 1 plain crochet, 2 chain, miss 20, 1 plain; repeat. Tack
the loops in the centre, and sew on a pearl watch-hook.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 3. INFANT'S BONNET.]

[Illustration: No. 4. LACE FOR POCKET-HANDKERCHIEF.]

[Illustration: No. 5. ELIZABETHAN WATCH-HOOK.]

[Illustration: No. 6.]

[Illustration: No. 7.]

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET

8. MUSIC-STOOL COVER.

_Materials--Shaded green Berlin wool, four threads; ivory crochet-hook_.


Make a round the size of a shilling, and work thirty-two treble-stitches
round it.--

_2d round_. 3 treble, 3 chain; repeat.--

_3d round_. 1 single into the middle treble-stitch of the 3 in last
round, 9 treble in the loop of 3 chain; repeat.--

_4th round_. 1 single into the third of the 9 treble, 5 chain, 1 single
into the seventh of the 9 treble; repeat.--

_5th round_. 2 treble, 5 chain, 2 treble in the chain of five in the
last round, 5 chain; repeat.--

_6th round_. 2 treble over the 2 treble, 2 chain, 2 treble in the loop
of 5 chain, 2 chain, 2 treble over the second, 2 treble, 3 chain;
repeat.--

_7th round_. 2 treble over the first 2 treble-stitches, 3 chain, 2
treble, 3 chain, 2 treble, 1 chain; repeat.--

_8th round_. 4 treble, commencing on the last 2 treble-stitches in the
last round, 5 chain, 2 treble, 5 chain; repeat.--

_9th round_. 2 treble over the 2 middle of the 4 treble, 7 chain, 2
treble, 7 chain; repeat.--

_10th round_. 1 single into the last chain-stitch in the last round,
_(a)_ 5 chain, 1 single into the second of the chain of seven, 7 chain,
1 single into the last but one of the 7 chain; repeat from _(a)_.--

_11th round_. 1 single into the centre stitch of the 7 chain, 9 chain;
repeat.

_12th round_. Treble.--

_13th, 14th, and 15th rounds_. Single open.--

_16th, 17th, and 18th rounds_. The same, only making 2 treble-stitches
together, with 1 chain.--

_19th round_. Plain treble.--

_20th round_. 1 single, 7 chain into every 3 stitch in the last round.--

_21st round_. 1 treble into the centre of the 1 loop of 7 chain, 6
chain, 1 single into second loop of 7 chain, 6 chain; repeat.--

_22d round_. 3 treble, commencing on the chain-stitch before the treble
in last round, 6 chain, 1 single over the single in last round, 6 chain;
repeat.--

_23d round_. 5 treble, commencing on the chain-stitch before the 3
treble in last round, 6 chain, 1 single over the single in last round, 6
chain; repeat.--

_24th round_. 7 treble, commencing as before, and making a chain-stitch
between each treble, 5 chain, 1 single over the single in last round, 5
chain; repeat.

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY

9. COVER FOR ALBUM.

_Materials--Black or crimson satin or velvet, gold thread, and
gold-coloured silk braid_.


Draw the pattern with a white crayon, and work the leaves and the name
with the gold thread in embroidery-stitch; sew on the braid on the
scroll which encircles the cover.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

10. SERVIETTE FOR CRUET-STAND.

_Materials--Raworth's crochet-thread No. 30, or three shades of rose and
one of drab crochet-thread_.


If the coloured threads are used, commence with the lightest pink, and
make a chain of 30 stitches; work on each side and in the end of this in
close double crochet, increasing by making three stitches in the
end-stitches.--

_2d round_. 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2, except at the three end-stitches,
when none must be missed.--

_3d round_. 1 long in the 1 long of last round, 2 chain; increase at the
ends by working 1 long in the alternate chain-stitches.--

_4th round (with the second shade)_. 5 single, 11 chain, miss 7; repeat
all round.--

_5th round_. Work a stitch of double crochet in each of the
chain-stitches, and in the first two of the single of last round, 5
chain, unite to the single in the ring which this forms; work 1 single,
3 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 1 double long, 2 long, 3 chain, 2
long, 3 chain, 1 single, work 2 double in the 2 single; repeat all
round.--

_6th round (with the darkest shade)_. 1 single in the centre of the 11
chain-stitches, 9 chain, 1 single in double long, 9 chain; repeat.--

_7th round_. Double crochet in every stitch of last round.

_For the Forget-me-nots_.--With drab make a chain of 6 stitches, unite,
and into this ring work 3 long stitches, 3 chain-stitches; repeat four
times more. Make a chain of 5 stitches for the stem, and fasten off.

_For the Leaves_.--Make a chain of 15 stitches, work 11 double crochet
down this chain, pass the thread under the stalk, and draw it through
the 12 stitch on the opposite side. Work 1 long stitch into each of the
next 3 loops; 4 chain-stitches, (_a_) 1 single crochet into the next
loop; 1 long stitch into the following loop; 2 double long into the
next; 1 treble long into the next; 2 double long, 1 single long, 4
chain; repeat from (_a_) to the 1 treble long, which brings you to the
point of leaf. Work on the reverse side 2 double long, 1 long, 1 single,
(_a_) 4 chain, 1 single, 2 double long, 1 long, 1 single; repeat from
(_a_), and finish by working down the stem. 27 forget-me-nots and 12
leaves will be required. Cut a paper pattern the size and shape
required; tack the centre of serviette to this, the right side to the
paper, arrange the leaves and flowers as indicated in illustration; work
stems for the flowers in chain-stitch, and to this attach each flower;
work between the flowers and the leaves in button-hole stitch, and sew
the leaves and flowers to the centre.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 5. MUSIC STOOL COVER]

[Illustration: No. 9. COVER FOR ALBUM.]

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY

11. SCREEN.

_Materials--Black satin, three shades of green chenille, three shades of
brown chenille gold twist, and gold beads_.


Work the shamrocks with the green chenille, veining the leaves with
gold twist; the foliage in the background is also worked with green
chenille. The framework of the harp is executed with beads, and the
strings with twist. The wolf-hound is worked with brown chenille in
embroidery-stitch, as also are the stems of the shamrocks and foliage.

       *       *       *       *       *




NETTING

12. A LONG PURSE IN HONEYCOMB PATTERN.

_Materials--Three skeins of coarse purse silk, either a rich green, dark
blue, or cerise, according to fancy; mesh No. 12_.


For the length, you will require a foundation of 72 stitches.

_1st row_. Net plain.--

_2d row_. Net the 2d stitch, then the 1st, now net the 4th, and
afterwards the 3d; continue in this way to the end of the row.--

_3d row_. The first and every alternate stitch of last row will appear
to be twisted, into which net 1 stitch; but into 2d and every other net
2; repeat to the end of the row.--

_4th row_. Net plain, leaving the extra stitches of last row unnetted;
these 4 rows form the pattern, which must be repeated fourteen times
more; join one-third of the rows together at each side, net 2 rows round
the opening with a No. 21 mesh, draw up the ends, and finish with steel
tassels and slides.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

13. GERMAN KNITTING-BAG.

_Materials--Green and puce Berlin wool (four shades of green and three
of puce), three skeins of each shade, and four skeins of black wool. One
pair of tassels of corresponding colours, and a quarter of a yard of
morocco leather for lining, will also be required_.


Work in double-stitch crochet, passing the hook through both the upper
and under loop of the stitch of the preceding row. With black make a
chain nine inches in length. Work 1 row; work 2 rows with each shade of
green, commencing with the darkest; work 2 rows with black, then work 1
row with each shade of puce, commencing at the darkest. Work five
stripes with each colour, and in working the last row but one of black
work 3 chain, miss 3, fourteen stitches from each end. These form
button-holes.

_For the Ends_.--With darkest green make a chain of 9 stitches; unite,
and work two rounds, increasing in every stitch in the first and every
alternate in the second round. Work two rounds with each of the other
shades, increasing always in the same stitch. Work one round with black,
one with the lightest puce, then one with black. Work a second end in
the same manner.

_For the Handle_.--With black make a chain fourteen inches in length.
Work one row with the second shade of green, one with the mid shade of
puce, then one with the third shade of green, and one again with black.
Crochet in the ends to the body of the bag. Line with leather. Sew on
the handle, the tassels, and also two buttons on the side opposite to
the button-holes. Sew gimp round the joining at the ends, or work 3
plain stitches, 9 chain, miss 4, with black wool.--

_2d row_. 1 stitch of double crochet in every stitch.

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY

14. CIGAR-CASE.

_Materials--Dark crimson velvet, or cachmere and gold twist or
embroidery silk; if the latter, three shades of green, three of rose,
three of blue, three of yellow, three of violet, and two of brown will
be requisite_.


Draw the pattern on the material with a white crayon, and work in
embroidery-stitch with gold twist or the silks, as may be preferred; if
the silks are used, work the leaves with the shades of green, the stems
with brown, the pansy with the shades of violet and yellow, the buds of
the rose with the greens and the rose-colours, and the forget-me-nots
with blue, carefully blending the shades as may be suggested by the
taste of the worker. Finish with a row of gold twist sewed round the
edge of the case.

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY

15. COLLAR AU FESTON.

_Materials--Cambric muslin and French working-cotton No. 80, or black
silk and fine sewing-silk_.


Having drawn the pattern on the material, work the lines and the edge in
button-hole stitch; then cut out the spaces between the lines, leaving
only the parts which are worked.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 10. SERVIETTE]

[Illustration: No. 11. SCREEN.]

[Illustration No. 12. LONG PURSE IN HONEYCOMB PATTERN.]

       *       *       *       *       *




SCAGLIOLA WORK

16. CARD-CASE.

See directions in page 22.

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY

19. CLARET-JUG MAT.

_Materials--White silk or cachmere; three shades of scarlet, three of
blue, three of green, and two of yellow chenille; five shades of scarlet
Berlin wool, two skeins of each shade; and two skeins of white wool_.


Draw the pattern on the material; work in embroidery-stitch the centre
flower with the shades of scarlet, and the stamens of the flower with
two shades of yellow. The buds are worked with scarlet, the small
flowers with blue, and the leaves with green.

Work the fringe from the directions for fringe for liqueur-stand, and
line with green silk.

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY

20, 21. CORNER FOR HANDKERCHIEF.

_Materials--French cotton No_. 120.

Work in raised satin stitch.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

22. COVER FOR EASY-CHAIR.

_Materials--Raworth's crochet-thread No. 21, and pink and drab
crochet-thread of corresponding quality_.


With drab make a chain the length required.--

_1st and 2d rows_. Double crochet.--

_3d row_. 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2; repeat.--

_4th row_. 1 long, 5 chain, (a) 5 long, 5 chain, miss 5; repeat from
(a).--

_5th row_. 1 long, 4 chain, (a) 5 long, worked on the last stitch of
chain and above the first four long of last row; repeat from (a).--

_6th, 7th, and 8th rows_. As _5th row_, but that the number of
edge-stitches must decrease in each row.--

_9th row_. 5 long, the first worked above the second long of last row,
the remaining above the remaining long, and in the first stitch of
chain; repeat.--

_10th, 11th, and 12th rows_. As _9th row_, increasing the number of
edge-stitches.--

_13th row_. With white, double crochet.--

_14th row_. 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2; repeat.--

_15th row_. 7 stitches of double, _(a)_ make a chain of 15 loops, form a
circle by working a plain stitch into the ninth loop; 7 chain, 1 plain,
worked into the second loop; 7 chain, 1 plain, worked into the third
loop; 7 chain, 1 plain, worked into the fifth loop; 7 chain, 1 plain,
worked into the sixth loop; 7 chain, 1 plain, worked into the eighth
loop; work a stitch of single crochet in each of the remaining chain
stitches, then 15 stitches of double crochet in the fifteen following
stitches of the 14th row; repeat from _(a)_ to the end of row.

With pink work rows of single open crochet between the flowers already
worked with white, attaching the thread to the second stitch of
foundation in the _1st row_, and finishing in the third chain in the
opposite leaf. In the _2d row_, fasten the thread to the third chain of
second leaf, and finish at the opposite leaf.--_3d row_. Fasten on at
the fifth chain of second leaf, and finish at the opposite leaf.--_4th
row_. Commence at third chain of third leaf, and finish at opposite
leaf. Work thus between each of the flowers to the end of row, then work
a row of single open crochet.

With white work 1 row in double crochet, and a row, 1 long, 2 chain,
miss 2; repeat. Recommence again at 2d row, and repeat the stripes of
drab five times, and of pink three times. Procure two tassels of the
colours used in the cover for chair, and attach to the sides.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

23. LADY'S RETICULE.

_Materials--Drab crochet-thread, two shades of narrow blue satin ribbon,
cord and tassels to correspond with the ribbon; a piece of blue and a
piece of white silk as a lining_.


Make a chain of 130 stitches.--

_1st row_. Double crochet.--

_2d row_. 3 chain, 3 long.--

_3d row_. 3 long worked in the 3 chain, 3 chain; repeat.--

_4th and two following rows_. 1 long, 3 chain.--

_7th, 8th, 9th,
10th, and 11th rows_. Like the _2d_ and _3d_; repeat from the 3d row
twice, and finish with 3 rows, 3 long, 3 chain, miss 3. Crochet the
sides together, work a row of double-long stitches around the top, in
which to insert the cord, and finish with a row of double crochet. Pass
the ribbon through the rows of 3 chain, 3 long, placing the lightest in
the centre strip, as will be seen by referring to illustration. Make a
double lining with the silk; place the white next the reticule, and the
blue inside, and finish with cord and tassels.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 13. GERMAN KNITTING BAG.]

[Illustration: No. 14 CIGAR-CASE.]  [Illustration: No. 15. COLLAR AU
FESTON.]

[Illustration: No. 16. CARD-CASE.]

[Illustration: No. 17.]

[Illustration: No. 18.]

       *       *       *       *       *




SCAGLIOLA WORK

24. SPECTACLE-CASE.

Procure a case made of sycamore wood of proper shape. Upon this draw the
design with a pencil, trace over the pencil-marks with Indian ink and a
fine crow-quill; then fill in the ground with Indian ink and a
camel's-hair brush. After two or three days, varnish with the best
picture-varnish.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

25. TOILET-CUSHION.

_Material--Raworth's thread No. 90_.


Make a chain of 9 stitches, join and work 3 rounds in double crochet.--

_4th round_. 3 chain, 1 long in every alternate stitch.--

_5th round_. Double crochet.--

_6th round_. 3 chain crochet.--

_7th round_. Two 3 chain crochet-stitches, 3 chain, 7 long in the centre
loop of 5th, 3 chain crochet-stitch.--

_8th round_. Three 3 chain crochet-stitches, 7 chain over the 7 long.--

_9th round_. Double crochet.--

_10th round_. 3 chain, 1 long in every alternate stitch.--

_11th round_. Double crochet.--

_12th round_. Two 3 chain crochet-stitches, 6 long in 9th stitch.--

_13th round_. Four 3 chain crochet-stitches, 6 long over the 6 long.--

_14th round_. Three 3 chain crochet-stitches, 8 long.--

_15th round_. Two 3 chain crochet, 10 long.--

_16th round_. 3 chain, 12 long.--

_17th round_. Four 3 chain crochet-stitches over the 12 long, 7 long in
the centre loop of 3 chain.--

_13th round_. Five 3 chain crochet-stitches, 9 long over the 7 long.--

_14th round_. Three 3 chain crochet, 11 long.--

_15th round_. Two 3 chain crochet, 13 long.--

_16th round_. 3 chain, 15 long.--

_17th round_. Double crochet.--

_18th round_. 3 chain, 2 long, missing two stitches.--

_19th round_. Double crochet.--

_20th round_. 7 chain, 7 long in centre of 7th stitch.--

_21st round_. 7 chain, 7 long over the 7 long.--

_22d round_. 7 chain, 7 long.--

_23d round_. 9 chain, 5 long.--

_24th round_. 11 chain, 3 long.--

_25th round_. Double crochet.

_Lace_.--_1st round_. 8 chain, 6 long, missing 6 stitches.--

_2d round_. 5 chain, 1 long in centre of 8 chain, 5 chain, 4 long over
the 6 long.--

_3d round_. 5 chain crochet to the centre of 5 chain, 5 chain crochet
to the centre of 5 chain, 5 chain, 3 long.--

_4th round_. 5 chain. Work this lace round the top of the row of
leaves which is to form the side of cushion, commencing at the 17th
round.

       *       *       *       *       *




KNITTING

26. BONNET-PRESERVER.

_Materials--Raworths thread No. 34, or fine knitting-cotton; pins No
16_.


Cast on _92_ stitches.--

_1st row_. Plain.--

_2d row_. Knit 1, (a) thread forward, knit 2 together; repeat from
(a).--

_3d row_. Pearl.--

_4th row_. Cast off 13 stitches at the beginning and end of the row,
knit the remaining stitches.--

_5th row_. Pearl.--

_6th row_. Knit 3, (a) thread forward, knit 5, thread forward, knit 3
together; repeat from (a), and finish with knit 3.--

_7th row_. Pearl.--

_8th row_. Knit 1, knit 2 together, (a) thread forward, knit 2 together,
knit 3, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 1; repeat from (a), and
finish with knit 2 together, knit 1.--

_9th row_. Pearl.--

_10th row_. Knit 2, (a) thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, knit 2
together, knit 1, knit 2 together; repeat from (a), and finish with knit
2.--

_11th row_. Pearl.

Commence again at 6th row, beginning each row with knit 2, and knit
until five diamonds are worked; knit two plain rows, then thread
forward, knit 2 together, after which a pearl row, and cast off loosely
in knitting the two last diamonds, and the remaining rows increase by
making a stitch at the beginning and end of each row; join the piece
behind, and pass a narrow ribbon through the open loops and down the
front, leaving sufficient for strings.

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY

27. SMALL OTTOMAN.

_Materials--Black satin; four shades of scarlet, four ditto of crimson,
four ditto of amber, four ditto of peach, three ditto of stone-colours,
three ditto of blue, three ditto of blue greens, three ditto of yellow
greens, and one skein of white embroidery silk or of Berlin wools_.


Draw the pattern upon the satin, and work in embroidery stitch. Commence
the first dahlia with shades of amber; the second with the shades of
stone-colour, using white for the lightest; the third with scarlet
shades; the fourth with peach shades; the roses with the crimsons; the
lilies with the stone-colours, using white for the lightest shade; and
the forget-me-nots with the shades of blue. Work the rose-leaves with
the yellow greens, and the dahlia-leaves with the blue greens; work the
stems with brown. The stamens of the yellow dahlia must be worked with
green, but in all the others with yellow.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 19 CLARET-JUG MAT]

[Illustration: Nos 20. 21 CORNERS FOR HANDKERCHIEF]

[Illustration: NO. 22. COVER FOR EASY-CHAIR]

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

28. CARD-BASKET.

_Materials--Shaded green, shaded amber, shaded geranium-colour, Berlin
wool; two skeins of blue, two of green, Berlin wool, and two yards of
wire, will also be required_.


With shaded green make a chain of nine stitches; unite and work ten
rounds in close double crochet, increasing in every stitch in the first
round, in every alternate in the second, and in the same stitch in each
of the succeeding rounds.--

_11th round_. Work along stitch in each stitch, missing every ninth
stitch.--

_12th round_. 3 long, 3 chain, miss 2.--

_13th round (with amber)_. 3 long worked in the 3 chain of last round, 4
chain; repeat.--

_14th round_. Close double crochet.--

_15th round (with shaded green)_. 3 long worked in one stitch, 1 chain,
miss 3; repeat.--

_16th round_. Close double crochet.--

_17th round (with amber)_. 3 long worked above the one chain of 15th
round, 2 chain; repeat.--

_18th and_ _19th rounds_. Close double crochet. The last of these rounds
is worked over a wire, and a round in close double crochet, with amber,
is also worked over a wire in the 10th round, to form the bottom of
basket. Wrap four pieces of wire, the height of the basket, with green
wool, and attach to the inside at regular distances. Prepare a piece of
wire, in like manner, for the handle. Work the handle as follows:

With shaded green make a chain the length required.--

_2d row (with amber)_. Close double crochet.--

_3d row (with green)_. Close double crochet; sew this to the wire, which
must be placed in the under side.

Prepare the flowers and leaves which ornament the edge of the basket in
the following manner:

_Geranium_.--With geranium-coloured wool make a chain of five stitches,
unite, and work a round in double crochet, increasing in every stitch;
work a round without increasing, then work 1 single crochet, 2 chain, 3
long, 2 chain, 1 single crochet, in one stitch, miss 1, and repeat in
every alternate stitch.

_For the Cup of the Flower_.--With green make a chain of five stitches,
unite, and work 1 single, 2 long, 1 single in every stitch. Make the
stamens with amber wool, and sew the stamens and flower to the cup.

_For Geranium-bud_.--With geranium-colour make a chain of three
stitches, unite, increase in the second round by working two in each
alternate stitch; work 2 rounds without increasing; then work two rounds
decreasing in every stitch. With green make a chain of four stitches,
unite, and work 1 single, 3 long, 1 single; repeat three times, and draw
the bud through this, leaving a piece for the stem, which must be
wrapped with green wool. _Forget-me-not_.--With blue make a chain of
five, unite, and into this ring work 1 single, 2 long, 1 single; repeat
four times.

_For the Cup of the Flower_.--With green make a chain of four stitches,
work 1 single, 1 long in every loop; make stamens with pieces of amber
wool; place the flower within the cup, draw the stamens through, and sew
at the end, leaving a piece of wool for the stem, which is wrapped with
green.

_For the Leaves_.--With green make a chain of 18 stitches; work down one
side of these for 11 stitches in single crochet; turn to the other side,
work 1 single, 2 long, in the first two stitches; (_a_) 1 single, 1
long, in third stitch; 2 double long in the fourth; 1 long, 2 chain, in
the fifth stitch; repeat from (_a_) once, and work 1 long, 2 double
long, in the ninth and tenth stitches, and in the last stitch work two
treble long. Work the other side of leaf to correspond. Work down the
chain to the fifteenth stitch; from this work a chain of 11 stitches,
and work a leaf from the directions already given. Work a third leaf on
the reverse side of stem. Seven geraniums and three buds will be
required, and fifteen forget-me-nots and seven sprays of leaves will
also be needed.

Arrange the flowers and leaves on the basket as seen in illustration,
and sew on the handle.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 23. LADY'S RETICULE.]

[Illustration: No. 24. SPECTACLE CASE.]

[Illustration: No. 25. TOILET CUSHION.]

[Illustration: No. 26. BONNET PRESERVER.]

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET

29. RAISED CROCHET COLLAR.

_Materials--Raworth's crochet-thread No. 70, and a middle-sized
tambour-needle_.


Cut out in paper the shape of the collar you wish to make, but half an
inch larger all round.

_Edging for the Collar_.--Make a chain about one-third longer than the
outside of your paper pattern, turn and work the first row along the
chain in long crochet, making a chain stitch after each long one, and
missing the corresponding loop of the chain.--

_2d row_. Turn again, keeping the work on the right side; make 3 chain
stitches, and along the opposite edge of the long stitches, (_a_), work
10 plain stitches, and in the tenth a chain of 9 stitches; turn, and
along the vein just made work 8 stitches in double crochet, and 1 plain
stitch in the loop from which the chain springs; repeat from (_a_)
throughout the row. Break off your cotton, and begin the next row and
all the following at the other end.--

_3d row. (b_) Work 9 plain stitches, then work round the vein in long
stitches, making an additional stitch at the top; repeat from (_b_).--

_4th row. (c_) Work 8 plain stitches, then round the leaf in long
stitches, making 2 additional stitches in the top loop; repeat from
(_c_).--

_5th row. (d_) Work 7 plain stitches, then, in double crochet, making
round the leaf an additional stitch in the top loop; repeat from
_(d)_.--

_6th row. (e)_ Work 6 plain stitches, and round the leaf in double
crochet, without making a stitch at the top; repeat from _(e)_.

To complete your edging, work a row of double crochet on the other edge
of the row of long stitches.

_Flowers for the Collar_.--

Make a chain of 6 stitches; close it by
taking a plain stitch in the first of the chain; work in every loop of
this small ring 2 long stitches, with a chain-stitch between each of the
long ones. In finishing the round, make a stitch to complete the number
of twenty-five loops; then _(a)_ work 5 plain stitches, and in the fifth
make a chain of 7 stitches; turn, work 6 stitches in double crochet
along the chain, and 1 plain in the loop from which the chain springs;
repeat from _(a)_ four times. You have then three veins; work round them
as directed for the leaves of the edging; after the second row of double
crochet break off your cotton. According to the size of the collar, five
or six flowers will be sufficient, if you make also the trifoliums.

_Trifoliums_.--Make a chain of 18 stitches; turn, and work along the
chain 3 plain stitches, a vein of 7 stitches; 6 plain, a vein of 8
stitches; 6 more plain stitches, another vein of 7; 3 plain stitches,
and break off the cotton. Begin at the first end, and work the two rows
of long stitches exactly as directed for the leaves of the edging; at
the end of the two following rows, which are in double crochet, round
the leaves, instead of breaking off the cotton, work in double crochet
from the third leaflet to the first; thus connecting the work in one
single leaf with three divisions. Having prepared the required number of
flowers and leaves, baste your edging on the paper pattern, so that the
whole of the leaves rest on the paper; then work a chain rather loose,
to connect the two ends of the collar on the neck side; turn, and work
along that chain a row of double crochet. Baste this narrow band
carefully half an inch from the edge of the paper; then begin a row of
double crochet inside the collar, throwing, at even distances, a
slanting chain from the edging to the neckband, working back each time
along that chain in long or double crochet; repeat the same operation
from the neckband to the edging, so as to divide the whole middle of the
collar in a certain number of diamonds; baste the diamonds to the paper,
place alternately in each a flower or a trifolium, and, with a
sewing-needle and fine French embroidery cotton, connect the flowers and
leaves to the inside edges of the diamonds in long twisted stitches,
rows of button-hole stitches, or any kind of lace-work. After being
washed and starched, the collar ought to be pressed on the wrong side
with the head of a round nail warmed in the fire.

       *       *       *       *       *


Page-22.

SCAGLIOLA WORK

30. A CHESS-BOARD.

This description of drawing is called Scagliola work, or a Mischia
(mixed workmanship); it was first invented by Guido Tassi, and the art
was afterwards improved and perfected by Henry Hugford, a monk, of
Vallambrosa. It was first used to counterfeit marbles; and the altar of
St. Antonio, in the church of St. Nicolo, at Carpi, is still preserved
as a monument of extraordinary skill and beauty. It consists of two
columns, representing porphyry, and adorned with a pallium, embroidered
as it were with lace; while it is ornamented in the margin with medals
bearing beautiful figures.

The dicromi, or yellow figures on a black ground, in imitation of the
Etruscan vases, are now most admired in scagliola work; and as the art
is one easy of attainment, we shall describe it. Having procured a piece
of sycamore of the desired size and shape, you draw upon it with a
pencil, first the centre piece, and afterwards the border; you then
trace over the pencil marks with Indian-ink and a fine crow-quill, and
next fill in the ground with Indian-ink and a camel's-hair brush. After
two or three days, varnish with the best picture-varnish. If sycamore
cannot be procured, deal will answer the purpose, covered with good
cream-coloured drawing-paper.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 27. SMALL OTTOMAN]

[Illustration: No. 28. CARD BASKET.]

[Illustration: No. 29. COLLAR.]

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

31. GARNITURE FOR TOILET-BASKET.

_Materials--Raworth's crochet-thread No. 40; Penelope crochet No. 3_.


Make a chain of 60 stitches; work round this, at each side and the ends,
1 long, 2 chain, miss 2, increasing by missing but 1 stitch at the ends.
Work 10 rounds thus; then make a round of double crochet. For the sides,
work 13 rounds in the same manner, but increasing in every alternate
round by making 3 chain-stitches between the long; finish with the
following lace:

_Pattern for Lace_.--

_1st round_. 3 long, 3 chain, miss 2, 1 long, 3 chain, miss 2, 1 long, 3
chain, miss 2, 1 long, 3 chain, miss 2; repeat.--

_2d round_. 5 long, the first worked over the last stitch of chain; the
others in succeeding stitches, 4 chain, 1 long, 4 chain, 1 long, 4
chain; repeat.--

_3d round_. 3 long worked over the 3 centre long stitches, 5 chain, 1
long, 4 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.--

_4th and 5th rounds_. 1 long, 5 chain, the long worked in the centre
stitch of chain; repeat.--

_6th round_. 5 long worked in the centre stitch of chain, 3 chain, miss
8; repeat.--

_7th round_. 3 long, the first in the last chain stitch, the
succeeding above the first, 2 long, 2 chain, miss 1, 3 long, 3 chain;
repeat.--

_8th, 9th, and 10th rounds_. 1 plain, worked in the centre stitch of 3
chain of last round, 3 chain, 1 long, miss 3, 1 long, 3 chain, miss 3, 1
long, 3 chain, miss 3, 3 chain; repeat.

Line the basket with rose-coloured satin before sewing in the crochet
lining; wrap the handle with ribbon of shade to correspond with the
satin, and place small rosettes at each side.

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY

32. GREEK CAP.

_Materials required will be a quarter of a yard of common bed-ticken,
but of a good broad stripe; some fine gold thread, also some silver
thread, and various coloured silks_.


Measure the size round the head, and cut a piece of ticken to the
length, and of the depth of seven inches; work on the _black_ stripes in
herring-bone; stitch a row of gold and silver cord, alternate; and on
the intermediate _white_ stripes work, according to fancy, different
coloured silks, also in herring-bone stitch, only rather larger, to fill
up the stripe. Cut a piece of ticken round, and of about 2-1/2 inches in
diameter; work it in the same manner, and mount it on a circular piece
of card; full the headpiece round the small crown, line it with some
bright-coloured Persian, and trim it with a gilt band, and gilt tassel
to match.

This cap is so simple a work, that it hardly allows any one to suppose
it will look as pretty as it certainly does.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

33. FLOWER-STAND.

_Materials--Scarlet and green shaded eight-thread Berlin wool; Penelope
crochet needle No. 1_.


With scarlet make a chain of 9 stitches, join and work a round in double
crochet, increasing in every stitch.--

_3d round_. 1 long, 3 chain, miss 2 all round.--

_4th round_. 1 long in the centre stitch of chain, 4 chain; repeat all
round.--

_5th round_. Double crochet.--

_6th round_. 3 long, the centre one above the 1 long in 3d round, 4
chain; repeat all round.--

_7th round_. 4 long worked in the 4 chain stitches, 4 chain; repeat all
round.--

_8th round_. Double crochet.--

_9th round_. 4 long worked over the chain stitches, 6 chain; repeat.--

_10th round_. 1 stitch of solid long stitch in every loop.--

_11th round (with the green wool_). 1 long, 5 chain, miss 2; repeat.--

_12th round_. 1 long, 5 chain, miss 1; repeat.--

_13th round_. Chain of 7 stitches, worked in every third stitch with a
plain stitch.--

_14th and three following rounds_. Chain of 9 stitches, worked in the
centre stitch of chain of previous round.--

_18th round_. 3 chain, 1 plain, taking the centre chain-stitch of every
5th chain of 9; repeat all round, and this completes the mat.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

34. COVER FOR TASSEL OF WINDOW-BLIND.

_Materials--Raworth's crochet-thread No. 40_; _Penelope crochet No. 3_.


Make a chain of 40 stitches, join and work two rounds in single open
crochet.--

_3d round_. 4 chain, 1 long; repeat.--

_4th round_. 3 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain;
repeat.--

_5th round_. 5 long worked in the last chain-stitch, and over the 3 long
stitches and in the first chain-stitch, 5 chain, 1 long 5 chain, 1 long,
5 chain; repeat.--

_6th round_. 7 long worked as in 5th round, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1
long, 5 chain; repeat.--

_7th round_. 9 long worked as before, 5 chain, 1 long, 4 chain, 1 long,
5 chain; repeat.--

_8th round_. 11 long worked as before, 5 chain, 1 long, 3 chain, 1 long,
5 chain; repeat.--

_9th round_. 13 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.--

_10th round_. 15 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.--

_11th round_. 17 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.--

_12th round_. 15 long, 4 chain, 1 long, 3 chain, 1 long, 4 chain;
repeat.--

_13th round_. 13 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 4 chain, 1 long, 5 chain;
repeat.--

_14th round_. 11 long, 7 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 7 chain;
repeat.--

_15th round_. 9 long, 5 chain, 1 long worked in the centre stitch of the
7 chain, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain;
repeat.--

_16th round_. 7 long, 7 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long,
5 chain, 1 long, 7 chain; repeat.--

_17th round_. 5 long, 3 chain, 1 long worked in the centre stitch of 7
chain, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1
long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain; repeat.--

_18th round_. 3 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long,
5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 5 chain.--

_19th round_. 1 long, 7 chain; repeat all round.--

_20th round_. 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2; repeat all round.--

_21st round_. 3 plain, 9 chain, miss 5; repeat all round.--

_22d round_. 2 chain, 1 long, miss 1; repeat all round.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 30. Scagliola Work.]

[Illustration: No. 31. Garniture for Toilette-Basket.]

[Illustration: No. 32. Greek Cap.]

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

35. UNDER-SLEEVE.

_Material--Raworth's crochet-thread No_. 70.


_Band of insertion for the Wrist_.--19 c s, unite d c round this ring
eighteen times, which will cover about three-quarters of the ring. Turn
the work wrong side up. 6 c s, miss 2, s c into third stitch; repeat
this five times more. Turn 1 d c, 5 l s, 1 d c, into every space formed
by 6 c s, d c round the remaining part of the ring six times; fasten
off, leaving one end about three inches long. Turn on the wrong side.
Begin on the third stitch of third scallop of last flower. 12 c s, s c
into fifth stitch of next scallop, forming a loop over the two centre
scallops. Turn. D c round this loop eighteen times. Turn. * 6 c s, miss
2, s c into third stitch; repeat from * five times more. Turn. 1 d c, 5
l s, 1 d c into every space formed by 6 c s; fasten off, leaving one end
as in last flower. Work fifteen of these flowers, thread a fine needle
with the ends left, and make a few stitches on the wrong side to secure
them. The band between the two puffings is to be worked exactly the
same; but there must be eighteen flowers instead of fifteen. Commence
the fulness on the band for the wrist on the first scallop, at the edge,
5 c s (working in the end of the thread), s c into the centre of next
scallop, * 6 c s, s c into the first scallop of next flower. 5 c s, s c
into next scallop; repeat from * to the end of the band.

_2d row_. Commence on the first loop of 5 c s in last row, * 8 c s, d c
round the next loop, 8 c s, d c round the same loop; repeat from * to
the end of the row.--_3d row_. Commence on first loop of 8 c s in last
row, 9 c s, d c into next loop, 9 c s, d c into next loop; repeat to the
end of the row.--_4th row_. Commence on the same loop of 8 c s, as the
last row was begun on 10 c s, d c round the centre of first loop in last
row, * 9 c s, d c round the next loop; repeat from * to the end of the
row. After the d c stitch round the last loop in this row, make 5 c s,
and draw the end of the cotton through. _These 5 c s must be worked at
the end of every alternate row, in order to keep the ends of the fulness
even_. Work four more rows like the two last, making in all six rows,
then seven rows, having 10 c s in each loop, every alternate row of
which is begun in the same loop as the preceding row, having 12 c s in
the first loop. Then work six more rows like the former six, having 9 c
s in each loop. This will make nineteen rows of loops: fasten off. Work
a fulness on the upper band of insertion in exactly the same manner, and
gather it in at the top next the sleeve in this way: commence on the
first loop 2 c s, take the next loop on the needle, and d c round it
once, 2 c s, * d c round next loop once, 2 c s; repeat from * to end of
row. In the next row, work 1 l s into every stitch of last row.

To unite the fulness on the wristband to the upper band of insertion,
turn them both on the wrong side, and hold them as if they were to be
sewn together, the insertion being at the back. Take the first loop, and
the centre stitch of the first scallop, on the needle, and work 1 s c to
unite them, 3 c s, s c the next loop and centre stitch of the next
scallop, o 4 c s, s c the next loop and centre of first scallop in next
flounce together, 3 c s, s c next loop and next scallop, o * 4 c s, s c
next loop and next scallop, 2 c s; take the next loop on the needle
_without_ the scallop, and s c once round it, 2 c s, s c the next loop
and next scallop together; repeat from * to end of row, except on the
two last flowers, which must be worked as from o to o.

_For the Edging on the Wristband_.--Commence on the first scallop of the
insertion, * 5 c s, s c into next scallop, 6 c s, s c into next scallop;
repeat from * to end of row.

_2d row_. 10 c s, 1 l s, into first loop of last row, * 3 c s, 1 l s
into same loop, 3 c s, 1 l s into next loop; repeat from * to end of
row.--

_3d row_. 7 c s, d c round every loop of last row.--

_4th row_. 4 c s, 1 l s into every loop of last row.--

_5th row_. Begin on the first loop of third row, 6 c s, 5 l s into first
loop of last row, 4 c s, d c into next loop, * 4 c s, 5 l s into next
loop, 4 c s, d c into next loop; repeat from *.--

_6th row_. 4 d c stitches round first loop of 6 c s in last row, 8 c s,
* miss the 5 l s, d c four times round the next loop of 4 c s, 4 d c
round the next loop, 8 c s; repeat from *.--

_7th row_. Begin on first loop of 8 in last row, 7 c s, s c _between_
the two loops of 4 d c each, * 7 c s, s c round the centre of 8 c s in
last row, 10 c s, d c round the same loop, 7 c s, s c between the two
loops of 4 d c; repeat from * to end of row. This finishes the edging.

D c round the ends of the puffings, taking in the ends left on finishing
the rows. Make a chain of 15 stitches at the ends of the two bands of
insertions, and s c into the edge for a small loop. D c round these
twenty-four times, and sew a small pearl button on the other ends of the
bands. The insertion may have a narrow satin ribbon run through the open
holes, finished by a small bow at the upper part of the sleeve.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 33. Flower-Stand.]

[Illustration: No. 34. Cover for Tassel of Window-Blind.]

[Illustration: No. 35. Under-Sleeve.]

[Illustration: No. 36. Smoking Cap.]

[Illustration: No. 37. Baby's Cap.]

[Illustration: No. 38. Border for a Baby's Cap.]

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY IN BRAID

36. SMOKING CAP.

_Materials--Claret-coloured velvet, gold braid, and a gold band and
tassels_.


Six pieces of velvet, three nails in length, and the width given in
diagram will be required, and these must be sloped to a point. Draw the
designs upon the velvet with a white crayon, and sew on the braid;
arrange the patterns in alternate order; neatly join the pieces of
velvet, and edge each joining with braid; line with silk, and finish
with band and tassels.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

37. BABY'S CAP.

_Materials--Raworth's threads Nos. 90 and 100, and Penelope crochet No.
4_.


With No. 90 make a chain of 3 loops, join and work a round of double
crochet.--

_2d round_. Open crochet all round.--

_3d round_. Double crochet all round.--

_4th round_. 3 chain, 1 long, missing 2 loops of preceding round;
repeat.--

_5th round_. Double crochet all round.--

_6th and 7th rounds_. 3 chain, crochet; repeat.--

_8th round_. Double crochet all round.--

_9th round_. 3 chain, 2 long, missing 3 loops of preceding round;
repeat.--

_10th round_. Double crochet all round.--

_11th and 12th rounds_. 3-chain crochet, increasing as required, to form
the round for crown.--

_13th round_. Three 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every
fourth 3-chain crochet-stitch of preceding round; repeat.--

_14th round_. Three 3-chain, 5 chain over the 5 long of preceding round;
repeat.--

_15th, 16th, 17th, and 18th rounds_. Like the 13th and 14th rounds.--

_19th round_. 3-chain crochet all round.--

_20th round_. 3-chain crochet-all round.--

_21st round_. Double crochet. This completes the crown of the cap; leave
one-third to form the neck. The front of the cap must be worked
throughout on one side, commencing at the right hand.

_Front.--1st round_. 3 chain, 2 long, missing 3 loop of preceding round;
repeat.--

_2d round_. Double crochet.--

_3d round_. 3-chain crochet.--

_4th round_. Three 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every
fourth 3-chain crochet stitch of preceding row; repeat.--

_5th row_. Three 3-chain double crochet over the long stitches of
preceding row; repeat.--

_6th row_. Three 3-chain crochet, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1
chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, missing 1 loop between each long over
the double crochet of preceding row; repeat.--

_7th row_. Three 3-chain crochet, double crochet over the long stitches
of preceding row; repeat.--

_8th row_. 3-chain crochet; repeat.

_9th, 10th, 11th,_ _12th, and 13th rows_, like the 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th,
and 8th rows.--

_14th row_. 3-chain crochet.--

_15th row_. Double crochet, missing every alternate loop of preceding
row.--

_16th row_. 2 chain, 2 long, missing 2 loops of preceding row; repeat.--

_17th row_. Double crochet.--

_18th row_. 3-chain crochet; repeat.--

_19th row_. 3-chain crochet; repeat.--

_20th row_. Three 3-chain crochet, five long in centre loop of every
fourth 3-chain crochet-stitch; repeat.--

_21st row_. 3-chain crochet, 5 chain over the 5 long of preceding row.--

_22d row_. 3-chain crochet; repeat.--

_23d, 24th, 25th, and 26th rows_, like the 19th, 20th, 21st, and 22d
rows.--

_27th row_. 3-chain crochet; repeat.--

_28th row_. Double crochet; repeat.--

_29th row_. 3 chain, 2 long, missing 3 loops of preceding row; repeat.--

_30th row_. Double crochet; repeat. Work the ends of the front and that
part of the crown that was left to form the neck, in double crochet,
rounding the crown part by missing every second loop; then work 2 chain,
2 long, missing 2 loops of preceding row; then a row of double crochet:
this completes the cap. Draw with narrow satin ribbon, and trim with the
following lace:--

       *       *       *       *       *




38. LACE FOR CAP.

This lace must be worked throughout on one side, commencing at the
right-hand side of foundation. Make a chain the required length with
thread No. 90; work 1 row in double crochet.--

_1st row_. Thread No. 100 double crochet.--

_2d row_. 1 chain, 1 long in every alternate loop of foundation;
repeat.--

_3d row_. Double crochet.--

_4th row_. 3-chain crochet.--

_5th row_. Three 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every fourth
3-chain crochet-stitch of preceding row; repeat.--

_6th row_. 3-chain crochet, 5 chain over the five long stitches of
preceding row; repeat.--

_7th row_. 3-chain crochet.--

_8th row_. Five 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every sixth
3-chain crochet-stitch of preceding row; repeat.--

_9th row_. Five 3-chain crochet, 5 chain over the 5 long stitches of
preceding row; repeat.--

_10th row_. 3-chain crochet.--

_11th row_. 3-chain crochet.--

_12th row_. Three 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every fourth
3-chain crochet-stitch of preceding row; repeat.--

_13th row_. Three 3-chain crochet, double crochet over the 5 long
stitches of preceding row; repeat.--

_14th row_. Three 3-chain crochet, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1
chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, missing 2 loops between each long;
repeat.--

_15th row_. Three 3-chain crochet, double crochet over the long stitches
of preceding row; repeat.--

_16th row_. 5 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain,
1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, missing 2 loops between each long; repeat.--

_17th row_. Double crochet.--_18th row_. 5-chain
crochet.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 39. APRON.]

[Illustration: No. 40.]

[Illustration: No. 41.]

[Illustration: No. 42. SCARF.]

[Illustration: No. 43.]

[Illustration: No. 44.]

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY

39. APRON.

_Materials--Black satin and four shades of crimson, two ditto of blue,
three ditto of green, and white embroidery silk_.


Draw the design on the satin, and work in embroidery stitch the large
flowers with the shades of crimson, commencing each petal with the
second shade, then work with the third, and finish with the lightest.
Commence the centre of the flower with the lightest, then work with the
second shade, after which work the two upper divisions with the two next
shades in regular order. Work the cup of the flower with the middle
shade of green, and the piece beneath with the second shade of crimson.
Work the stems with the lightest green, and the leaves with the other
two shades. Work the centre part of the small flowers with the darkest
crimson, the small petals which encircle this with the next shade of
crimson; then work with the darkest blue, after which with the lightest,
and finish the edge of the flower with white. Work the pockets and the
band in a similar manner, and finish with cord and tassels.

       *       *       *       *       *




TAMBOUR

42. LIMERICK LACE SCARF.

_Materials--Brussels net, French working-cotton No. 120, Raworth's
sewing-cotton No. 100, and a fine pearl edge_.


Work the outline of the pattern and the edge with French cotton in
tambour-stitch, and fill in the spaces with the sewing-cotton in the
same stitch, or, if preferred, in darning-stitch; work dots in the
places indicated in the design, and, after washing the scarf, sew a
pearl edge all round.

A description of head-dress, for which this scarf is intended, will be
found in the London and Paris fashions of No. 126 of the _Lady's
Newspaper_.

       *       *       *       *       *




NETTING

45. A KNITTING-BAG.

_Materials--Raworth's crochet-thread No. 40; a reel of pink cotton of
the same size, or two pieces of white and two of pink netting-silk;
three silk pink and white tassels; two yards and a half of silk
bag-cord; half-a-yard of pink sarsnet; three meshes cornucopia gauge of
No. 1, No. 6, and one No. 11; two netting-needles; and a piece of cane
used for drawn bonnets_.


Set on 71 stitches with No. 1 mesh, join the round in pink
cotton.--_No_. 11 _mesh_. Net 4 rounds of alternate white and pink.--*
_No_. 1 _mesh (white cotton). 2_ plain rounds.--_No. 6 mesh_. Take 2 of
the preceding row together in pink cotton; 1 plain round, same cotton
and mesh.--_No_. 1 _mesh (white cotton_). Make 2 stitches in each stitch
of the preceding row; 1 round plain, same cotton and mesh.--_No_. 11
_mesh (pink cotton_). Net 5 plain rounds; recommence from * twice;
finish top of bag by 3 plain rows in white of No. 6 mesh, for the cords
to pass through; 2 plain rows in pink of No. 11 mesh; last row, double
pink cotton, with No. 1 mesh.

Take the half-yard of sarsnet, join it up neatly, make 3 runners the
width of the cane, the first at three inches from the bottom, the second
at two inches from the first, and the third two inches from the second;
run a piece of cane ten inches long in the first runner, another piece
of sixteen inches and a half long in the second runner, and one of
eleven inches and a half long in the third runner; tack each of these
bands of cane to the 5 rows of fine netting to form the shape, close up
the bottom, and place a tassel; run the cord round the top of bag, and
fasten a tassel to each end.

       *       *       *       *       *




NETTING

48. VASE-STAND.

_Materials--Shaded green, shaded scarlet, and shaded amber Berlin wool;
meshes Nos. 1, 4, and 8_.


With scarlet make a foundation of 25 loops on mesh No. 4; join and net 1
round on mesh No. 8; fasten on the green; net 2 loops in 1; then net 3
rounds more with green, without increasing; fasten on the scarlet; net 1
round on mesh No. 4, 2 on mesh No. 8, 1 on mesh No. 4, and 2 on mesh No.
8; fasten on the green; net 6 loops in every loop on mesh No. 1; net 1
round with amber on mesh No. 8; fasten on the scarlet wool in the fourth
round from edge, that is, in the same loops as that in which the row of
scarlet, netted on mesh No. 4, was netted; into this row net 1 row on
mesh No. 8; net 2 more rows with scarlet on mesh No. 8; then with green
net 6 loops in each loop on mesh No. 1; net 1 row with amber on mesh No
8; fasten on the scarlet in the last row of green in the centre of the
mat; into this row net 1 row on mesh No. 8; then net 6 more rows in the
same mesh; net 6 loops in each loop on mesh No. 1; 1 row with amber on
mesh No. 8.

       *       *       *       *       *




BRAID

49. WATCH-POCKET.

_Materials--Pink silk or satin, a piece of white silk braid, white silk
fringe, and white satin ribbon_.


Draw the pattern on the silk with a white crayon, and hem the braid on;
trim with the fringe, and rows of satin ribbon.

[Illustration: No. 45. KNITTING-BAG.]

[Illustration: No. 46.]

[Illustration: No. 47.]

[Illustration: No. 48 VASE-STAND.]

[Illustration: No. 49 WATCH-POCKET.]

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

50. MITTEN.

_Materials--Raworth's crochet-thread Nos_. 120 _and_ 90, _or black crape
silk_.


The receipt for the back of mitten is here given, the underpart and the
thumb being simply French ground-work, finished at the top and bottom
like the back, leaving an opening at the side for the thumb. Make a
chain long enough to go round the wrist in thread No. 90, and work one
plain row. Fasten on thread No. 120, and work one treble and row of
French ground of six stitches to each hole.--

_1st fancy row_. 5 holes of French ground, 6 long close, 10 French
ground.--

_2d row_. 5 French ground, 12 long close, 10 French ground.--

_3d row_. 4 French ground, 6 long close, 3 French ground, 12 long close,
1 French ground, 6 long close, 4 French ground.--

_4th row_. 5 French ground, 6 long close, 2 French ground, 6 long close,
2 French ground, 12 long close, 4 French ground.--

_5th row_. 5 French ground, 15 long close, 2 French ground, 5 long
close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground.--

_6th row_. 7 French ground, 5 long close, 2 French ground, 18 long
close, 4 French ground.--

_7th row_. 4 French ground, 5 long close, 2 French ground, 5 long close,
2 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 4 French
ground.--

_8th row_. 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long
close, 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3
French ground.--

_9th row_. 3 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close,
4 French ground, 18 long close, 3 French ground.--

_10th row_. 3 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long
close, 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 3
French ground.--

_11th row_. 3 French ground, 12 long close, 2 French ground, 12 long
close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3
French ground.--

_12th row_. 5 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long
close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 5 French ground, 12 long close, 3
French ground.--

_13th row_. 6 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long
close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3
French ground.--

_14th row_. 5 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground, 12 long
close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 4 French ground.--

_15th row_. 4 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long
close, 2 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 5
French ground.--

_16th row_. 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 18 long
close, 9 French ground.--

_17th row_. 4 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long
close, 2 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 5
French ground.--

_18th row_. 4 French ground, 12 long close, 3 French ground, 12 long
close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 4 French ground.--

_19th row_. 12 French ground, 5 long close, 5 French ground.--

_20th, 21st, and 22d rows_. French ground.--

_23d row_. 1 plain, 5 long close, 1 plain into each loop.

_For the Edging_.--1 treble, 1 French ground.--

_1st fancy row_. 1 hole of French and 6 long close alternately all
round.--

_2d row_. Wholes of French ground, 6 long close all round.--

_3d row_. 6 long close, 5 chain, 2 long close, 5 chain all round.--

_4th row_. Same as the 3d.--

_5th row_. 6 long close, 5 chain, 6 chain, 8 chain, 6 chain to be worked
into the same loop, 5 chain; repeat all round. The engraving will
greatly assist in working out this.

_Explanation of Terms_.--French ground: six chain stitches united to the
centre stitch of former row. Long close: long stitches, without any
chain-stitch between.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

51. COLLAR.

_Flowers for the Border_.--The following is the mode of working this
pattern:--Make 28 chain. Turn. Miss 17, 1 plain, 1 chain, 1 long, 2
chain. Continue to work 1 long and 2 chain all round the flower.--

_2d round_. 3 plain under every 2 chain; 4 plain in the stem. Fasten off
for the leaf.

12 chain. Turn. Miss 2; 7 long stitches in 7 following chain, 1 plain; 1
chain to cross the stem; 3 long, 1 plain in the same chain as last long;
3 long, 1 plain, 5 long to turn the point; 1 plain, 3 long, 1 plain
twice; 7 plain in stem. Fasten off. The second flower, worked as the
first, is united to it by working the eighth plain stitch of the last
round of the flowers into a stitch the same distance from the stem of
the first flower. To turn the corners of the collar, work a flower
without a leaf. Continue these flowers the length of the collar.

_Leaves and Flowers for the Centre_:--

_First leaf_. 31 chain. Turn. Insert the needle into the nineteenth
chain; 1 plain, 1 chain to cross the stem; 3 long into three following
chain; 2 long in 1 chain, 4 long, 2 long in 1 chain; 3 long to turn the
points. Then down the other side of the leaf the same. 4 plain in the
stem; 1 chain to cross the stem.--

_Second leaf_. 21 chain, and work as first leaf. When finished, work 4
plain down the stem.--

_Third leaf_. 13 chain. Turn. Miss 1, 1 plain, 7 long, 1 plain.--

_The flower_. 17 chain. Turn. Insert the needle in the tenth chain to
form a loop; work 15 plain stitches in the loop.--

_1st round_. 6 chain, miss 2, 1 plain five times.--

_2d round_. 7 plain stitches in every 6 chain.--

_3d round_. 3 chain, miss 1, 1 plain; repeat. 17 plain in the stem.
Fasten off for the band.

Work a chain the length of the collar.--

_1st row_. Plain.--

_2d row_. 1 plain, 2 long, 3 double long, 2 long, 1 plain; repeat.
_Directions for making up the collar_.--After the leaves, flowers,
band, and border are worked, cut the shape of the collar in pink or blue
paper; gum a piece of holland at the back of the paper, to prevent its
tearing; tack the border on the paper pattern, the right side downwards;
then sew on the sprigs as in the engraving. Sew the edges of the leaves
and flowers nicely, to prevent their turning up; then, with a
sewing-needle and fine cotton, unite the flowers, leaves, and borders,
by passing the needle from one part of a leaf or flower to another four
or five times; then pass the needle under the bars formed six or eight
times, according to the length of the bar; pass the needle to another
part, and continue to connect the work in this manner throughout the
collar.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 50. MITTEN.]

[Illustration: No. 51. FLORAL COLLAR.]

[Illustration: No. 52. CENTRE OF A COVER FOR MUSIC BOOK OR PORTFOLIO.]

[Illustration: No. 53. WINTER HEAD-DRESS.]

[Illustration: No. 54. "BABOCHE," OR CANDLE ORNAMENT.]

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY

52. CENTRE OF A COVER FOR MUSIC-BOOK OR PORTFOLIO.

_Materials--Black satin or velvet; three shades of green, two ditto of
crimson, two ditto of blue, and one skein of olive silk; and one piece
of silver twist_.


Work, in embroidery-stitch, the leaves with the greens, the flowers with
the crimson, the stems with the olive, the harp with blue, the cords of
harp with the silver twist, and the shamrocks with green.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

53. WINTER HEAD-DRESS.

_Materials--Half-an-ounce of shaded scarlet Berlin wool, and six skeins
of white wool; Penelope crochet No. 2_.


With white make a chain measuring 18 inches. Work a row in single open
crochet. With scarlet work 2 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of
each row. Work the next row with white, and continue alternately 2 rows
scarlet and 1 white, decreasing every row until 9 rows are completed.

_For the Borders_.--With white work in chains of 7, missing every
alternate stitch at the back, and taking every stitch at the sides; and
for the space of 24 stitches in the centre of the cap miss 2 stitches.
Work a second row of chains of 7 at the sides. Work an additional border
in the same manner, taking the stitches above the third row of white.
Pass casings of scarlet ribbon through each of the rows of white wool,
place loops of the same between the borders, join the cap behind, and
finish with a rosette of ribbon.

       *       *       *       *       *




54. "BABOCHE," OR ORNAMENT FOR CANDLES.

The materials required are, a quarter of a yard of bright rose-coloured
glazed muslin, a quarter of a yard of white glazed jaconet muslin, two
pieces of card of three inches and a half long and one inch broad; join
in, and cut out of rose and white jaconet muslin twenty pieces of each
colour; fold them, and sew on the card 5 rose, then 5 white, all round,
and your baboche will be completed.--(_See_ drawing.) We assure our fair
readers they are exceedingly pretty, and certainly not found
_difficult_.

       *       *       *       *       *




SCAGLIOLA WORK

55. CHESS-BOARD.

SEE directions in page 22.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

56. D'OYLEY.

_Materials--Shaded scarlet and green double Berlin wool; Raworth's
crochet-thread No_. 16; _Penelope crochet No_. 1.


With green make a chain of 5 stitches, unite the ends; then make 7
chain, 1 single into each loop of the preceding chain.--

_1st round_. 5 chain, 1 single in the centre loop of the 7 chain; repeat
four times.--

_2d, 3d, and 4th rounds_. 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1; repeat, uniting the
ends of each round, and taking the loops at the back of the chain.--

_5th round (crochet-thread_.) 4 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2
chain, 1 treble twice, 2 chain, miss 1; repeat.--

_6th round (green wool)_. 4 treble over the 4 in the last row, 1 double,
5 chain, 1 single through the loop in the last round twice, 5 chain, 1
single; repeat.--

_7th round (crochet-thread)_. 4 treble over the 4 in the last round, 1
double, 5 chain, 1 single over the 1 in the last round.--

_8th round (scarlet)_. 4 treble, 1 double, 3 chain, 1 double through the
loop, 5 chain, 1 double twice, 3 chain, 1 double; repeat.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 55. CHESS-BOARD.]

[Illustration: No. 56. D'OYLEY.]

[Illustration: No. 57. GAUNTLET CUFF.]

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

57. GAUNTLET CUFF.

_Materials--White and scarlet Berlin wool, three shades, and shaded
green wool; Penelope crochet No_. 2.

With white make a chain of 40 loops, and work from the directions given
for collar, page 38. Finish, to correspond with, collar, placing a
rosette in the centre of the cuff, and fastening with a hook and eye.

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY

58. LIQUEUR-STAND MAT.

_Materials--White silk or cashmere; three shades of crimson, three ditto
of green, two ditto of brown chenille; five shades of scarlet Berlin
wool, four skeins of each shade; and four skeins of white Berlin wool_.

Draw the pattern on the material, and work in embroidery-stitch; the
roses with the shades of crimson; the leaves with green, shading
according to taste; and the stems with brown. In working the designs for
the corners, it is an improvement to introduce brown leaves occasionally.
Work a shaded fringe round the edge with the wools on a mesh an inch
and a half in width. Work the first round with white; the second, the
lightest crimson; after which, work one round with each shade to the
darkest; cut and comb the fringe, and line the mat with green silk.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET APPLIQUE

61. BORDER FOR A LACE SCARF OR VEIL.

_Materials--If for a black veil, fine black crochet-silk; if white,
Raworth's crochet-thread No_. 70.


The illustration represents the corner of the border.

_The Rose.--1st row_. 39 c s, 1 l s into eighth stitch, * 3 c s, miss 2,
1 l s into third; repeat from * to end of chain, except the last three
stitches, then 6 c s, 1 s c into last stitch.--

_2d row_. 5 c s, 1 l s over 1 s in last row (this row is worked on the
other side of chain, where the two stitches were missed), * 2 c s, 1 l s
over next 1 s; repeat from * to end of row. Turn. 4 c s, 1 l s round the
2 c s of last row, * 1 c s, 1 l s round the 2 c s of next space; repeat
from * to end of row. Turn. 4 c s, miss one space, 1 l s into second
space, * 1 c s, miss one space, 1 l s into second space; repeat from *
to end of row. After the last l s one space is left. 1 c s, 1 l s into
this. Turn. 4 c s, 1 l s into second space, 1 c s, miss one space, 1 l s
into second, 1 c s, 1 l s into next, 4 c s, 1 s c into last space.
Fasten off. Commence again on last s c stitch of first row. 3 l s, d l s
into first space towards the top, 4 d l s into next space, 3 l s, 1 d c
into third space, 3 l s, 2 d l s into next space, 3 t l s into top
space, 2 d l s, 3 l s into next, 1 d c, 3 l s into next, 4 d l s into
next, 4 d l s, 3 l s into next space. Continue all round thus: 6 d l s
into next or corner space, 4 d l s into next and every other space
except the end, into which 5 d l s, 1 l s. Turn. 4 c s, miss 2, s c into
third, 4 c s, miss 2, d c into third, * 4 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third.
Continue from * thirteen times, then 4 c s, d c into third stitch, 4 c
s, miss 2, s c into third. Turn. 4 d c round every 4 c s all along the
last row, 9 c s, s c into middle stitch of the first of three scallops
at the top of the rose, 9 c s, s c into second stitch of top scallop, 9
c s, s c into middle of top scallop, 9 c s, s c into last stitch but one
of same scallop, 9 c s, s c into middle of next scallop, 9 c s, s c into
first of 4 d c stitches round the space of last row * 9 c s, miss 6, s c
into seventh; repeat from * until these chains meet where they were
begun; then * 1 l c s, s c into s c stitch on the other side of first
chain; repeat from * all round.

_Wreath of Leaves and Buds_.--For the wreath under the corner rose: 94 c
s, s c down twelve of these, * 7 c s, s c into third s c stitch; repeat
from * three times more, which brings it to top stitch; 8 c s, s c into
same stitch, * 7 c s, s c into third stitch down the other side; repeat
from * three times more; pass the thread under the stalk, 3 d c into
first loop of 7 c s, * 7 c, s c round next loop of 7 c s; repeat from *
three times, which brings it to top loop; 7 c s, s c into same loop;
repeat the 7 c into every loop down the other side; s c, 5 c s for a
stalk; 10 c s, 1 d l s into fifth stitch, 5 more d l s into same stitch.
Turn. D c along the top of these d l s. Turn. D c along last d c
stitches; 9 c s, s c into d c stitch on the other side. Fasten off; this
forms the bud. Commence again at the last s c of the stalk of leaf, s c
along thirteen stitches; repeat the leaf and bud five times more; s c
the remaining c s for a stalk. The wreaths under the roses at the sides
are only to have five leaves and five buds on each, and require a chain
of eighty-two stalks for the stem. Tack the flowers on paper wrong side
up, as seen in the illustration. Tack the buds to the roses, and unite
the leaves by a slight band in button-hole stitch. Tack the edges of the
roses together, and the ends of the stems to the adjoining wreath; then
remove the paper, and lay the bordering upon the edge of the scarf or
veil, which should be of Brussels net. Sew the edge of the upper
scallops of the rose to the net very firmly, and cut away the
superfluous net.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 58. LIQUEUR-STAND MAT.]

[Illustration: No. 59]

[Illustration: No. 60]

[Illustration: No. 61. BORDER FOR A LACE SCARF OR VEIL]

[Illustration: No. 62. PURSE.]

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

62. CARD-PURSE.

_Materials--One skein of cerise, one of blue fine crochet-silk, one
skein of gold twist; one hank of gold beads No. 6, one ditto of silver;
a gilt top and tassel will also be required_.


Thread the gold beads on the cerise silk, and the silver on the blue,
and with the cerise make a chain of 7 stitches, unite; make 2 stitches
in each stitch in the 1st round, in every alternate in the 2d, and in
every third in the 3d, passing down a bead in every stitch; work thus,
increasing in each stitch until there are 42 bead-stitches in the round;
now decrease each division of the star, working 6 bead-stitches, 1
plain, increasing in the plain stitch; then decrease 1 bead-stitch in
every round till but one remain, increasing always in the same stitch in
each round; work 2 plain rounds, still increasing as before; work 1
round with gold twist, without increasing; 1 round with cerise, passing
down a bead at every stitch; and 1 round again with twist. Commence with
blue, and work 1 plain round. There ought now to be 64 stitches in the
round; if a greater number should be found, decrease by missing a stitch
as may be found necessary. This must be done in the first round worked
with blue.--_2d round (with blue)_. 10 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 2
bead-stitches; repeat all round.--

_2d round_. 8 plain, 8 beads; repeat.--

_3d round_. 12 plain, 4 beads; repeat.--

_4th round_. 4 plain, 4 beads, 5 plain, 3 beads; repeat.--

_5th round_. 2 plain, 6 beads, _4_ plain, 2 beads, 1 plain, 1 bead;
repeat.--

_6th round_. 1 plain, 4 beads, 2 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 1 bead, 2
plain, 2 beads; repeat.--

_7th round_. 2 plain, 2 beads, 2 plain, 5 beads, 3 plain, 1 bead;
repeat.--

_8th round_. 1 plain, 2 beads, 3 plain, 5 beads, 3 plain, 2 beads.--

_9th round_. 2 plain, 2 beads, 3 plain, 5 beads, 2 plain, 2 beads;
repeat.--

_10th round_. 1 plain, 2 beads, 2 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 3 beads, 2
plain, 4 beads; repeat.--

_11th round_. 2 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 2 beads, 4 plain, 6 beads;
repeat.--

_12th round_. 5 plain, 3 beads, 4 plain, 4 beads; repeat.--

_13th round_. 12 plain, 4 beads; repeat,--_14th round_. 8 plain, 8
beads; repeat.--

_15th round_. 10 plain, 2 beads, 1 plain, 3 beads; repeat.--

_17th round_. Plain, decreasing by missing every 16th stitch. Work 1
round with gold, then divide the purse, and work one-half with cerise;
work 8 rows, passing down a bead at every stitch, and decreasing a
stitch at the beginning and end of each row; work the other half to
correspond; sew on to the top, and finish with tassel in the centre of
star.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

63. ROUND COLLAR.

_Materials--White, and three shades of scarlet and shaded green Berlin
wool;_ _Penelope crochet No. 2_.


With white make a chain of 84 stitches; work a row of single open
crochet.--

_2d row (lightest scarlet)_. 3 chain, 3 long, miss 2; repeat to the
end.--

_3d row (second shade of scarlet)_. 1 long worked in the centre long
stitch of previous row, 5 chain; repeat.--

_4th row (dark scarlet)_. 3 long worked above the long, and the last and
first stitches of the chain, 4 chain; repeat.--

_5th row (green)_. Commence in the edge stitch of third row. 5 chain,
miss 3 *, 5 long, 3 chain, miss 1; repeat from *, and work to the end,
which must be finished with 5 chain, 1 plain, worked in the third row.--

_6th row (white)_. Commence at the edge-stitch of the third row. 6
chain, * 5 plain worked above the 5 long of previous row, 4 chain:
repeat from * to the end, and finish with 6 chain. Fasten the white wool
to the second stitch of fourth row, 6 chain, 3 plain worked above the 3
long of fourth row; repeat. Pass through every second stitch of white
row, and place a rosette of ribbon at the end.

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY

64. PRINCE OF WALES'S PLUME.

_Materials--Crimson satin and gold twist_.


Draw the design, and work in embroidery-stitch. This elegant design is
suitable for the centre of a book-cover, a watch-pocket, and many other
purposes, which the taste of the worker may suggest.

       *       *       *       *       *

NETTING

65. PATTERN FOR WINDOW-CURTAINS.

_Materials--Raworths crochet-thread No. 30, or fine knitting-cotton_.


Use cotton No. 10 for embroidering the pattern. Meshes No. 4, No. 6, and
a flat mesh three-fourths of an inch in width, will be required for the
edge.


Commence with a foundation of 300 loops on mesh No. 4, and net till the
length required is worked; then net the following edge at the sides and
end; net two loops in every loop on the large mesh, making four loops in
the corner loops.--

_2d row_. Take two loops together, netting two in these.--

_3d row_. Take every loop on mesh No. 6.--

_4th row_. Like 3d row.--

_5th row_. Net two loops in every loop on the large mesh.--

_6th and 7th rows_. Like 3d and 4th. Work the pattern in darning-stitch,
as in illustration.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 63. ROUND COLLAR.]

[Illustration: No. 64. PRINCE OF WALES'S PLUME.]

[Illustration: No. 65. PATTERN FOR WINDOW-CURTAINS.]

[Illustration: No. 66. GENTLEMAN'S BRACES.]

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY

66. GENTLEMAN'S BRACES.

_Materials--Black velvet or white satin ribbon of a very good quality,
and five shades of crimson and three of green embroidery silk_.


Line the ribbon with linen; draw the design, and work in
embroidery-stitch, shading, as taste may direct,--the leaves with the
greens, and the roses with crimson, using three shades for each rose,
and working first only with the lightest shades, then with the darkest
only.

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY

67. TOILET-CUSHION.

_Materials--White or black satin; three shades of crimson, three shades
of yellow, three shades of green, and two shades of olive green
embroidery silk; one yard of crimson and one yard of green chenille will
also be required_.


Draw the pattern on the material, and work in embroidery-stitch one rose
with the shades of crimson, and the second with the shades of yellow;
the leaves with the shades of green, and the stems with olive; work a
few stitches with the shades of the roses in the centre of the
rose-buds, and work the corner designs with green and olive. In the
arrangement of the colours, the taste and judgment of the worker must be
exercised, as much depends upon the harmoniously blending of the various
shades.

       *       *       *       *       *




NETTING

68. THE HELEN CAP.

_Materials--Scarlet floss silk, or five shades of scarlet Berlin wool;
meshes Nos. 3 and 6; cornucopia gauge, and a flat mesh, an inch in
width_.


The cap is worked in honeycomb netting, and the borders and rosette in
plain netting. With the darkest shade make a foundation of 56 stitches
on mesh No. 3, net 2 rows with each shade, increasing a stitch at the
end of each row; leave one-half of the cap plain, and net a border in
the following manner on the remaining loops and at the ends:--With the
darkest shade net 4 loops in every loop on the flat mesh, increasing by
making 6 loops in each of the three corner stitches; then on mesh No. 3,
net 1 loop in each, and finish by netting a row with the next shade on
the smallest mesh: this must be repeated at each side of the cap. For
the second border, net 100 loops on the flat mesh on a foundation of
wool, and finish to correspond with the first border. Two pieces netted
in this manner are required, and they are arranged in festoons at the
sides of the cap. Pass a cord the size required through the
foundation-stitches, join it, and sew on a rosette made in the following
manner:--With the darkest shade net 100 loops on mesh No. 3; then with
the next shade net 2 rows at each side and at the ends; make this into a
rosette with long ends, as in illustration.

This elegant and becoming head-dress derives its name from the beautiful
sister-in-law of the Emperor of Russia, the Grand Duchess Helen, who
introduced this style of coiffure at St. Petersburg.

       *       *       *       *       *




INDIAN ORNAMENTAL WORK

69. SCREEN.

Beautiful cabinets, work-boxes, work-tables, fire-screens, &c., may be
painted in imitation of ebony inlaid with ivory by the following
means:--Let your screen be made of an elegant form, but merely of common
white wood or deal, prepared as below.


_Composition for the Surface of Wood_.--Steep one ounce of glue in a
pint of cold water all night; throw off the water in the morning. Take
six ounces of finest white lead in powder, mix it by degrees in a
mortar, with about half a pint of cold water, till it is perfectly
smooth, then place it, along with the glue, in a clean pan. Add half a
pint more water; set it on the fire, stirring constantly till it boils.
Let it boil three minutes; take it off, and pour it into a stone jar,
and continue to stir it occasionally till cold. When cold, but before it
congeals, take a clean paint-brush, and paint your screen with the
composition. When it is quite dry, rub it over with sand-paper, to make
it quite smooth; then give it another coat of the white composition,
repeating the rubbing with sand-paper as before. Repeat this same
process five or six times, until you obtain a smooth, equal, white
surface. When that is accomplished, dissolve the fourth of an ounce of
isinglass in a quarter of a pint of water; when cold, but liquid, give
the screen a coat of it with a clean brush, and do not use the
sand-paper after it.

_To Ornament the Screen_.--Lay a sheet of black tracing-paper on the
screen, with the black side downwards; then place a pattern above it,
with the right side uppermost; place a weight here and there, to prevent
it slipping; then trace over the outline with a rather blunt stiletto.
On removing the paper, you will find the outline of the pattern
transferred to the surface of the screen. Trace over the outline,
and shade, in lines, with a fine camel's-hair pencil dipped in Newman's
lamp-black; fill in with the same.

_Varnish_.--Place four ounces of rectified spirit of wine in a
wide-mouthed bottle; add one ounce of gum sandarac, a quarter of an
ounce of gum mastic, and a drachm of camphor, all in powder. Put a
stopper in the bottle, set it near a fire, and shake it occasionally.
When all the gums are quite dissolved, add one ounce of oil of
turpentine; then strain through muslin into another clean, dry
wide-mouthed bottle. Let it stand a day or two before using.

_Mode of Varnishing_.--Take a large clean new varnish-brush, dip it into
the bottle, and then cover over all your screen with it. When perfectly
dry, give it another coat, and so on till it has had six coats; let it
remain untouched for two days; rub it smooth with sand-paper; then give
it two more coats of varnish, and repeat the rubbing, being careful to
wait between each coat till the last is dry, and not to rub with
sand-paper sooner than two days after varnishing, and never give more
than two coats of varnish in a day--one in the morning, another at
night. When you think it looks clear and sufficiently thick, give it
another coat without using the sand-paper after it; let it stand four
days; then rub it all over with pounded rottenstone, and wipe it off
with a wet cloth; after which take a little Florence oil and
hair-powder, and polish with your hand.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No 67. TOILET CUSHION.]

[Illustration: No. 68. THE HELEN CAP.]

[Illustration: No. 69. SCREEN]

[Illustration: No. 70. HEARTSEASE]

       *       *       *       *       *




KNITTING

70. HEARTSEASE.

_Materials--Split Berlin wool, and knitting-needles No. 20; cornucopia
gauge_.


_Violet Petals_.--Cast on three stitches with a bright shade of violet;
knit and pearl in alternate rows, making a stitch at the beginning of
every row, until you have fourteen or sixteen stitches; then knit and
pearl six rows alternately, without increase, and continue in knitted
and pearled rows, decreasing one stitch at the beginning of each row,
till six or eight stitches alone remain; these cast off in the plain
row, taking the two last as one before you turn the last stitch over.
Two petals like these are required.

_Large Yellow Petal_.--Take a bright, though rather deep, shade of
yellow wool, split; cast on three stitches, knit and pearl in alternate
rows, increasing one stitch before and one after the middle stitch in
the plain row, till you have fifteen or seventeen stitches; take a
higher shade of yellow, and work six more alternate plain and pearled
rows, still increasing in the middle, but decreasing one stitch at the
beginning of every row; change your wool for a deep violet, and continue
to knit in alternate plain and pearled rows, decreasing one stitch at
the beginning of each row, till seven stitches only remain; these cast
off, taking the two last as one.

_Two smaller Petals_.--Exactly like the large one, but increased only to
thirteen stitches. Sew a fine wire round each petal with split wool, tie
the five petals together with a bit of green.

_Buds_.--Take eight or ten lengths of split wool, yellow and violet,
place across a piece of wire, fold the wire, twist the ends, turn down
the ends of wool, tie them round the wire, leaving out the length
required for the bud (about a quarter of an inch); cover the stem with
green wool, split; also the stem of the heartsease.

_Leaves_.--Begin with a shade of green wool, split as for one of the
yellow petals, but you have thirteen stitches; cast off three at the
beginning of the two following rows, go on increasing again to thirteen;
cast off three at each end, and make thus as many scallops as will look
well--in general three or four on each side make a very good-sized leaf;
after the last scallops, decrease one stitch at the beginning of every
row, till the leaf comes to a point.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

71. SERVIETTE FOR LIQUEUR-STAND.

_Materials--Raworth's thread No. 30, and three shades of Manlove's pink
crochet thread of corresponding size_.


With the lightest shade make a chain of 9 stitches; join to form a
round.

_1st round_. Double crochet, increasing in every stitch.--

_2d round_. 5 chain. 1 plain, miss 2; repeat.--

_3d round_. 5 chain, 1 plain, taking the centre stitch of chain of
previous round; repeat.--

_4th round_. Double crochet, increasing in every fifth stitch.--

_5th round_. 7 chain, 1 plain, miss 3; repeat.--

_6th round_. Double crochet.--

_7th round_. 1 chain, 1 plain above the centre stitch of chain in 5th
round; repeat.--

_8th round (second shade of pink)_. 9 chain, 1 plain, worked in the
plain of last round; repeat.--

_9th round_. Double crochet.--

_10th round_. 5 chain, 1 plain, miss 3; repeat.--

_11th round_. 4 chain, 1 plain, worked in the centre stitch of chain of
last round; repeat.--

_12th round_. Double crochet, increasing in every ninth stitch. Now
divide the work into three parts, commence with the darkest shade, and
work as follows:--Fasten on the thread three stitches from the centre of
one of these divisions; make a chain of 9 stitches, 1 plain, miss 6.--

_2d row_. Commence one stitch from the first stitch in last row, 1
chain, 1 long in every stitch; repeat, finishing by working a stitch in
advance.--

_3d row_. Commence as in last row, 2 chain, 1 long, miss 1, and
finish as before.--

_4th row_. Commence and finish as before, 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1;
repeat.--

_5th row_. 3 chain, 1 long, miss 2; repeat, beginning and finishing as
before.--

_6th row_. 1 long, 3 chain, miss 1; repeat, commencing and finishing as
before. Now work the other two divisions in the same manner; after which
work 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1, all round; then work a round in double
crochet. This completes the centre.

_For the Edge_.--With white work 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1, all round.--

_2d round_. 7 chain, 1 plain, miss 3; repeat.--

_3d round_. 7 chain, 1 plain worked in the centre stitch of chain;
repeat.--

_4th round_. 1 plain worked in the centre stitch of chain, 5 long worked
in the following stitches: 1 plain, 7 chain, 1 plain in the centre
stitch of chain, 7 chain; repeat.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 71. SERVIETTE FOR LIQUEUR STAND]

[Illustration: No. 72. RIBBON-WORK.]

[Illustration: No. 73. LADY'S SILK MITTENS.]

[Illustration: No. 74. COUVRETTE FOR DEVOTIONAL CHAIR.]

       *       *       *       *       *

RIBBON WORK

72. A NEW AND ELEGANT WORK FOR SOFA PILLOWS, ANTI-MACASSARS,
CARD-BASKETS, &c.

We will describe how to make an anti-macassar:--

_Take Penelope canvass, three quarters of a yard long, half a yard wide;
a piece of crimson china ribbon; one piece of gold-colour, one of shaded
lilac, and a rug-needle_.


Prepare the canvass by cutting away every 2 alternate threads, and draw
them out the whole length of the canvass; next cut away and draw them
out with tweezers, every 2 alternate threads, the whole of the width of
the canvass. Next thread the rug-needle with crimson ribbon, and sew
over the first 2 threads of canvass the lengthway of the canvass; when
at the end, pass the needle to the next 2 threads and sew them over,
taking care to keep the ribbon flat as possible; when at the top, return
and cover the next two threads with the same coloured ribbon. This will
make 3 stripes. Proceed the same with the gold-colour, 3 stripes; then
the lilac, 3 stripes; then recommence with the crimson, and continue the
same until you have the whole length finished. Next commence to sew over
the same from side to side, which will form a chequered pattern, and has
a rich effect. Finish round with a ruche of satin ribbon or fringe,
crimson colour. If desired, can be worked with slight silk.

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

73. LADY'S SILK MITTEN.

_Materials_--10 _pieces of fine black crochet silk_; 2 _bundles of No_.
6 _steel beads; Penelope crochet No_. 3.


Make a chain of 84 stitches; work 1 row in plain-stitch crochet.--

_2d row_. 2 edge-stitches, 1 bead-stitch, 1 plain to the end of row.--

_3d row_. Plain.--

_4th row_. Same as 2d row.--

_5th, 6th, and 7th rows_. Plain.--

_8th row_. 4 plain, 4 bead to the end of row.--

_9th, 10th, and 11th rows_. As 8th row.--

_13th, 14th, and 15th rows_. Plain.--

_16th row_. 1 plain-stitch, 1 bead-stitch to the end of row.--

_17th row_. Plain.

This completes the band for the arm, which must be worked on one side,
detaching the silk at the end of each row. Work 4 rows in chain-stitch
open crochet, making 7 loops in each chain, and missing 4 stitches in
working the first row, join and work in rounds; work _2_ rounds, then
divide the mit in half, and leave a space for the thumb; the silk must
be detached at the end of the row. Work to the centre of the back of
hand, make 3 chain-stitches, pass down a bead in making the next 3
chain-stitches, crochet to the centre stitch of chain of last row; then
work 3 stitches, passing down a bead at each stitch, then _3_
chain-stitches; work to the end of row. Work 6 rows, increasing the
number of bead-stitches by commencing at the preceding chain-stitch;
then work 6 rows, decreasing as seen in illustration; the last 3 of
these must be worked in rounds instead of rows; work _3_ rounds in
chain-stitches of 7 as before, then a round of chain-loops in each
chain. Work one-half plain for the inner part of the hand, then 1 bead,
1 plain. Next round plain. Work 3 rows thus on the back of the hand; 3
bead-stitches, 3 plain stitches. Next round plain; then 1 bead-stitch, 1
plain as before, and finish with a plain round. Now work the thumb as
follows:--Work a chain of 7, missing every third stitch; repeat three
times, then work 5 rounds, decreasing in each round by passing the loop
through the centre stitches of two of the chains; work 3 rounds without
decreasing, and finish with 3 rounds of close double crochet, making
every alternate stitch of the centre round a bead-stitch. Work a loop on
the band, and fasten with a button.

       *       *       *       *       *




NETTING

74. COUVRETTE FOR DEVOTIONAL CHAIR.

_Materials--Raworth's thread No_. 30, _knitting-cotton No_. 10, _shaded
amber Berlin wool, mesh No_. 6.


Commence with a foundation of 100 loops, and net till the proper length
is completed. Work the pattern in darning-stitch with cotton. Net a
fringe with shaded wool, making two loops in every loop, using a flat
mesh two inches broad.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No. 75 SACHET]

[Illustration: No. 76. PEN-WIPER.]

[Illustration: No. 77. PATTERN FOR FOOTSTOOL.]

       *       *       *       *       *




EMBROIDERY

75. SACHET.

_Materials--A quarter of a yard of pale-blue satin, one yard and
one-eighth of blue silk fringe, three shades of green, and two shades of
olive-green embroidery silk, and a small bundle of pearl beads_.


Draw the design upon the satin, and work in embroidery-stitch, the
leaves with the shades of green, the stems with the shades of olive, and
the grapes with the beads. Use such perfume as may be preferred, and
trim round the edge with the fringe.

       *       *       *       *       *




_EMBROIDERY IN BRAID_.

76. PEN-WIPER.

_Materials--Blue cachmere and gold-coloured braid_.


Draw the pattern, and sew on the braid; edge with button-hole stitch.

       *       *       *       *       *




_BERLIN WORK_.

77. PATTERN FOR FOOTSTOOL OR CUSHION.

_Materials--Canvass No. 40; scarlet, black, and white Berlin wool;
fourth shade of blue, fourth ditto of green, fourth ditto of peach
Berlin wool; amber floss silk, six skeins of each of the wools, and a
similar quantity of silk will be required; also a piece of fine
piping-cord, and emerald-green velvet ribbon_.


Cut the canvass into strips 3 inches in width, and the length required;
sew 14 lengths of cord upon the canvass, leaving 2 threads between each
cord; the cord will cover a space of 2 threads. Leave a margin 18
threads from this, and with black work 6 stitches over the 7th and 8th
cords opposite each other; with blue work 6 stitches on the same cords
on the right side, and with green 6 on the left; with peach work 6
stitches on the 9th and 10th cords, above the stitches of black; and
with scarlet 6 stitches on the 6th and 7th cords, underneath the black.
There will now be 60 stitches worked. With white work 6 stitches on a
line with each of the preceding stitches, and on the 2 cords above the
stitches of peach and below the scarlet; with amber silk work 6 stitches
in the same manner. This completes the first diamond. The pattern is
repeated to the end of row. The spaces between the diamonds are worked
as follows: With black work 6 stitches on a line with each stitch of
amber; with peach work the stitches between the black on the 3d and 4th
cords; on the right hand work 6 stitches with blue on the 1st and 2d
cords, and on the left with green; work the centre stitches with silk.
The opposite space is worked in a similar manner, substituting scarlet
for peach. For a cushion it will be necessary to work 4 strips of this
pattern; and, in making it up, a length of velvet ribbon of a similar
width is placed between each division of work. Finish with green cord
and tassels.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: No 78. A MAT FOR A FLOWER-VASE.]

[Illustration: Nos. 79, 80. LADY'S SLIPPER.]

       *       *       *       *       *




CROCHET.

78. A MAT FOR A FLOWER-VASE.

_Material--Raworth's crochet thread No_. 40.


_Centre Flower_.--12 c s, unite, work into this ring 5 c s, 1 l s, * 2 c
s, 1 l s; repeat from * eleven times, finish with 2 c s, s c into third
stitch of first, 5 c s.--

_2d round_. D c into first space, * 5 c s, d c into next space; repeat
from * into every space, finish with 5 c s, s c into first d c of the
round.--

_3d round_. 5 d c round every loop of 5 c s in last round.

_The eight Leaves round this Flower_.--Commence on one of the stitches
at the edge of this flower, 25 c s, s c back (this is for the stripe in
the centre of leaf), * 5 c s, miss 3, d c into fourth; repeat from *
five times, which brings it to top stitch of leaf, 6 c s, d c into same
stitch, 5 c s, miss 3, d c into fourth six times down the other side of
the stripe, draw out the loop on the needle a little, pass the thread
under the leaf, 1 d c round the first loop, 5 c s, d c round the next
loop, * 6 c s, d c round the next; repeat from * four times, which
brings it to top loop, 7 c s into same top loop, 6 c s into five more
loops down the other side, 5 c s, d c into last loop, pass the thread
under the leaf, d c three times round the loop next to stripe, five
times round next loop, six times round every loop up to the top, 2 d c,
5 l s, 2 d c round the top loop, 6 d c round every chain of six down the
other side, 5 d c round chain of 5, 3 d c round the last loop at bottom
of leaf next to the stripe; fasten off. Make another leaf in the same
manner at the opposite side of the centre flower, and one at an equal
distance between these two; another on the other side to correspond,
which will make four leaves, then work four more leaves between these 4,
and the eight leaves will be finished.

_For the rounds of open work proceed thus:_ Commence on the point of one
of the leaves, work 29 c s, d c into point of next leaf; repeat this all
round, not making the c s too tight.--

_2d round_. D c into every stitch of this round.--

_3d round_. 1 l s, * 3 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third stitch; repeat from
*.--

_4th round_. D c into every stitch of last round.--

_5th round_. 1 l s, * 3 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third stitch; repeat
from *.--

_6th round_. D c into every stitch of last round.--

_7th round_. 1 l s, 2 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third; repeat from * all
round.--

_8th round_. D c into every stitch of last round. Work on the inside of
the first round of 29 c s a ring, thus: commence on centre, c s
_between_ the leaves, 16 c s, unite on foundation-stitch, d c
twenty-four times round this ring; repeat these rings between every two
leaves, making eight in all.

_The Leaves on the outside of the open Rounds_.--

Commence on stitch
opposite to the point of one of the large leaves. 18 c s, 1 l s into
sixth stitch, * 2 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third; repeat three times more
from *. 1 s c into foundation-stitch, then 4 d c round first loop; 1 d
c, 2 l s, 1 d c round next three loops, 1 d c, 4 l s, 1 d c round top
loop; 1 d c, 2 l s, 1 d c round three loops on the other side of leaf; 4
d c round last loop. Make another leaf in the same manner, beginning at
the same foundation-stitch. Fasten off. Then two more leaves exactly the
same, opposite the points of all the large centre leaves. Then two more
leaves opposite each of the d c rings inside the open rounds (which will
be at an equal distance on each side from the others). There will now be
thirty-two small leaves, two and two, the upper point of each leaf to be
turned _outwards_, and to be tacked with needle and thread to the point
of the next leaf, which it will meet easily. (Care must be taken to
refer to the engraving for the manner in which the mat is to be
finished, as it will greatly assist the explanations.)

For the small roses between the leaves, which are made separately: 9 c
s, unite, 5 c s, 1 long stitch into ring, * 2 c s, 1 l s; repeat from *
seven times. 2 c s, s c into third stitch of first 5 c s.

_2d round_. 1 s c round first space, 3 c s, 3 l s, into same space, * 5
c s, miss 1 space, 4 l s into next space; repeat from * all round.
Finish with 5 c s, s c into third stitch of 3 c s. Fasten off sixteen
roses for the round. Place one of these roses between every pair of the
leaves which proceed from the same foundation, and sew it at the edge to
the third scallop of the leaves; then commence between the points of the
leaves which were sewn together, * 24 c s, d c into centre of edge of
small rose, 24 c s, d c between the points of the leaves; repeat from *
all round, then 26 d c stitches _round_ every 24 chain.

_Sprigs between the 24 C S_.--18 c s, unite on twelfth. D c round this
loop twenty-two times. S c up remaining c s for stalk. Fasten off,
leaving an end to sew the sprig on the mat. Turn wrong side up. Commence
on fifth stitch from stalk on the _right-hand side_ of the flower, * 10
c s, unite in same stitch. Turn again. Into this circle work 18 d c
stitches *. Turn wrong side up. S c up to top of ring formed by 18 c s;
repeat from * to * for another ring. Turn wrong side. S c down to fifth
stitch from stalk. Repeat another ring, when the work will be on the
right side. Bring the cotton to the side of this last ring nearest to
stalk. 13 c s, s c into top of last ring. 6 c s, s c into same stitch.
13 c s, s c into foundation close to the lower part of ring. 5 c s, s c
into _foundation-ring,_ close to centre ring, at the top. 13 c s, s c
into top of ring; 6 c s, s c into same stitch; 13 c s, s c into
foundation at bottom of ring; 5 c s, s c into foundation at lower part
of next ring; 13 c s, s c into top of ring; 6 c s, s c into same stitch;
13 c s, s c into foundation at the other side of ring. Fasten off.
Sixteen of these sprigs are required, and sixteen more small roses.
Place one sprig between each of the chains of 24 d c, where they meet at
the points of the leaves, and sew them by the thread which was left at
the end of the stalk. Confine them to the 24 d c by the lower 13 c s.
Place a small rose between each of these sprigs, fastening them together
where they meet. The best way is, to cut out a circle in coloured paper,
and (after the crochet work is completed) place the mat wrong side up
upon it, and fasten the flowers to it and to each other, as it will then
be quite flat and smooth.

       *       *       *       *       *




_EMBROIDERY IN BRAID_.

79, 80. LADY'S SLIPPER.

_Materials--Black satin or velvet, gold braid, and gold beads_.


Pencil the design on tissue-paper, trace this over with ink, tack the
pattern thus prepared on the right side of the satin or velvet. Sew the
braid on by the pattern, and when completed tear away the paper. Sew on
the beads with strong sewing-silk in the spaces indicated in the design.