(1828)***


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THE MIRROR OF LITERATURE, AMUSEMENT, AND INSTRUCTION.

VOL. 10, No. 273.] SUPPLEMENTARY NUMBER. [PRICE 2d.



       *       *       *       *       *




[Illustration: New Palace, St. James's Park.]



[Illustration: Triumphal Arch at Hyde Park.]



THE NEW PALACE IN ST. JAMES'S PARK.


Palaces are at all times objects of national interest, or rather they
are national concerns. They belong to the attributes of royalty, and
in some instances have been erected by a grateful people to celebrate
the virtues of patriot princes. We therefore make no apology to our
readers for occupying so large a portion of the present Supplementary
Number with the representations and details of the New Palace, (the
exterior of which is just now completed,) and of the consequent
improvements in the adjoining Parks; since we are persuaded that the
patriotic feelings of our subscribers will hail them as subjects of
paramount importance. The great Lord Bacon, who treated these matters
with the gravity of a philosopher, in his "Essays," gives a "brief
model of a princely palace;" and in our times Napoleon is known to
have expended many thousands in restoring the gilding of the palace at
Versailles--although the extravagance of its founders paved the way
for the events in which he distinguished himself.

In architectural improvement, London has made greater advances since
the late peace, than in the entire century which preceded that
auspicious event. Being unquestionably the richest, the largest, and
most populous city of Europe, the seat of a wealthier court, and a
more opulent body of nobility and gentry than any other metropolis, it
seems only a reasonable expectation that it should likewise excel all
others in the number and magnificence  of its public edifices and
private dwellings. Such, however, is not the case; for, till within
the last few years, that most splendid and impressive of all the arts,
architecture, has been almost wholly neglected.

The architectural superiority of London, such as it is, consists in
the number, size, and neatness of its principal streets and squares.
Petersburgh, Berlin, Naples, Turin, Geneva, Antwerp, Edinburgh, and
other places, have perhaps finer streets than any in London, but in
respect to their number there is no comparison. In _churches_, London
will probably be admitted, after Rome, to take the first rank among
the cities of Europe; but in _palaces_, London is confessedly excelled
by almost every other capital in Europe, both in public and private
edifices of this description; of the former, Whitehall, Carlton-house,
(now almost demolished,) and the Mansion-house, comprise the whole
list of buildings any way entitled to the appellation of palaces--and
even _their_ title has often been thought disputable.

To rescue our national character from this opprobrium, or ill-timed
compliment to royalty, the remodelling of Buckingham-house, or rather
the erection of the _New Palace in St. James's Park_, was decided on;
and how far this design has been accomplished in the palace, we leave
it to the taste of our readers to determine. Various piecemeal, not
to say absurd, descriptions have, during the progress of the work,
appeared in the London and provincial papers, many of them originating
in party feeling; but the structure has now so far advanced to
completion as to enable every spectator to estimate its merits and
demerits; and we are sorry to add, that much of the censure bestowed
on the palace during its progress (though with bad motives) now proves
essentially correct. The name of the designer at present remains a
secret. His majesty is known to possess exquisite taste, and it is
scarcely believed that his approbation can have justified some of the
incongruities, not to say enormities of the building; be this as it
may, the general public feeling is that of disappointment and regret.

The annexed view is of the central entrance front, facing east,
towards the Canal and the Horse Guards, taken from the Wall in St.
James's Park. The first objection is the site, in itself insuperable,
as will appear from the following remarks on the subject by Mr.
Loudon, editor of the _Gardener's Magazine_:--

"Had the problem," he says, "been proposed (how) to alter Buckingham
House and gardens, so as to render the former as unhealthy a dwelling
as possible, it could not have been better solved than by the works
now executed. The belt of trees which forms the margin of these
grounds, has long acted as the sides of a basin, or small valley, to
retain the vapours which were collected within; and which, when the
basin was full, could only flow out by the lower extremity, over the
roofs of the stables and other buildings at the palace. What vapour
did not escape in this manner, found its way through between the
sterns of the trees which adjoin these buildings, and through the
palace windows. Now, all the leading improvements on the grounds have
a direct tendency to increase this evil. They consist in thickening
the marginal belts on both sides of the hollow with evergreens, to
shut out London: in one place substituting for the belt an immense
bank of earth, to shut out the stables; and in the area of the grounds
forming numerous flower-gardens, and other scenes with dug surfaces,
a basin, fountains, and a lake of several acres. The effect of all
this will be a more copious and rapid exhalation of moisture from
the water, dug earth, and increased surface of foliage; and a more
complete dam to prevent the escape of this moist atmosphere, otherwise
than through the windows, or over the top of the palace. The garden
may be considered as a pond brimful of fog, the ornamental water as
the perpetual supply of this fog, the palace as a cascade which it
flows over, and the windows as the sluices which it passes through. We
defy any medical man, or meteorologist, to prove the contrary of what
we assert, viz. that Buckingham Palace is a dam to a pond of watery
vapour, and that the pond will always be filled with vapour to the
level of the top of the dam. The only question is, how far this vapour
is entitled to be called _malaria_. We have the misfortune to be able
to answer that question experimentally.... A man must be something
less or more than a king, to keep his health in that palace for any
length of time."

On the subject of _malaria_, an Italian term for the produce of marshy
lands, the attention of the public has lately been powerfully excited
by a series of essays by Dr. Macculloch, an abstract of which will be
found at page 252, of our accompanying Number, under the head "Arcana
of Science." Dr. M. is supported in his opinion by Lord Bacon and
other philosophers; and he shows, that though it is commonly supposed
that standing waters, when clear and free from smell, and all running
waters, are perfectly salubrious, they may, in fact, be nearly as
injurious as those that are putrid and stagnant; "that, besides proper
marshes, fresh and salt meadows, and wet pasture lands generally, all
woods, coppices, thickets, rivers, lakes, ponds, _ornamental waters_,
pools, ditches--_plashy_ and _limited spots of ground generally_, &c.,
send forth more or less of this noxious vapour; that wherever, in
short, any chemical compound of the vegetable elements is wetted, or
held in solution by water, there the poison in question may be or will
be produced, _provided the temperature be sufficiently high_; that the
smallest spot coming under any of the above denominations is
sufficient to produce _malaria_, and _a single inspiration of that
malaria to produce disease_."

Such is the theory of Dr. Macculloch; but, as observed by a
contemporary, Why should he have observed any delicacy on this
subject?--why not have, long since, denounced the whole of the ponds
in St. James's, the Green, and Hyde Parks, Kensington Gardens, and the
Regent's Park, as pestilential nuisances to all around them? Besides,
he states that _malaria_ is only generated in _hot weather_; so that
the palace, being intended as a _winter_ residence, the health of our
gracious sovereign will, we hope, not be endangered by his residence.
That there is much show of reason in this objection, cannot be
denied; at the same time it should be remembered, that in all great
undertakings the conflicting prejudices and caprices of private
interests generally work too prominent a part: hence, opinions should
be entertained with caution.

It is now time to speak of the _architectural_ character of the
palace. The main front represented in our engraving, forms three sides
of a quadrangle, thus II, the area being not far from equal, and
forming a clear space of about 250 feet in diameter. The central
entrance is a portico of two orders of architecture in height; the
lower is the Doric, copied from the temple of Theseus at Athens; the
upper is the Corinthian, resembling that style in the Pantheon at
Rome. This portico is so contrived, that upon the ground carriages can
drive through it; while above, there is an open and spacious gallery,
covered by a pediment on which statues are to be placed, and under
which is a long panel filled with figures in high relief. It is
understood that this entrance is to be exclusively appropriated for
the admission of his Majesty and the royal family. The above union of
two of the Greek orders is much censured: indeed a harmonious union of
any two of the Greek orders has never been an easy task. In the Doric
architecture of the ground story, the usual magnificence of this order
is wanting; the columns being merely surmounted by what is termed
"an architrave cornice," with the mutiles; while the frieze, with
its rich triglyphs and metopes is altogether omitted. The Corinthian
order of the upper story is altogether more worthy of admiration,
notwithstanding that some objection has been raised to the
"disproportionately slender columns, when contrasted with the massive
shafts beneath them." Here, too, the entire frieze, with its
emblematical embellishments of the British crown, surrounded with
laurel, and alternate leaves of the rose, the thistle and shamrock, is
sure to attract the eye of the spectator: the character and effect of
the whole is truly British.

The Doric order, as adopted in the lower parts of the portico, is
carried round the three sides of the court, consisting of fluted
cast-iron columns, which are beautiful specimens of our excellence
in the art of founding. At each side of the portico, terminating the
centre front, is a pavilion, where the orders are again applied;
surmounting which is an attic, towering above the other parts of the
building, and decorated with pilasters and caryatides. Over the
pediment, or centre, will be seen a dome, which is however at the back
of the palace, over the state-chambers. This completes the _front
view_ as appears from the park.

The north and south sides of the quadrangle are only two stories high.
In the centre of each there is also an entrance. At each extremity,
the building is raised, and roofed in a temple-like form, presenting
the ends towards the park with enriched pediments.

In the front of our engraving is represented a spacious circular
enclosure which will be made, by an ornamental railing of mosaic gold,
and divided into compartments by terms. The same metallic composition
(which is patronized by Mr. Nash) is to be employed in every other
part heretofore constructed in iron. In the middle of this area the
Waterloo monument will be erected: it is to consist of a triumphal
arch, somewhat resembling that of Constantine, at Rome, with national
emblems, trophies, &c., and colossal statues in the above metal,
imitating bronze.

The _south_ front, towards Pimlico, will form the general entrance to
the palace, a concave circular Ionic colonnade and lodges. Here the
old octagon library of Buckingham-House is to remain, when raised and
embellished after the manner of the Temple of the Winds: the remainder
of this range is chiefly allotted to the domestic offices.

The _west_, or garden front, (of course, the back of the centre
building of the quadrangle) is strikingly picturesque; its impression
on the beholder is altogether beautiful and pleasing, and it is much
to be regretted that the front or park view, (which will of course be
exposed to public view, while the garden front will be comparatively
private,) does not partake more largely of this character. The _prima
facies_ of the former is not likely to be admired, since its few
excellencies require to be selected by nice observation. Some of its
details may delight the artist, but the effect of the garden front
will, on the most hasty observer, be that of order and simplicity, the
essentials of architectural perfection.

The centre of the garden front is circular, embellished with columns
of the Corinthian order, supporting the dome already alluded to. The
upper story of the whole front is Corinthian, supported on a rustic
Ionic basement, and, says a contemporary, "though the latter, like the
Doric basement in front, has only an architrave cornice, yet in
consequence of the parts omitted being of little importance, and the
character of the Ionic more nearly allied, in point of delicacy, to
the Corinthian, the construction is altogether tolerably harmonious."
The outline is boldly broken into massive forms, which are, as Mr.
Loudon observes, "simple and easy to be comprehended, and yet
sufficiently enriched to mark the building as an abode destined for
splendid enjoyment." In this front, also, level with the middle or
principal tier of windows (those of the suite of state rooms) runs a
stone balcony or balustrade, supported by corbels of a mixed
character,--Gothic and Italian masques of chimera blended with wings
and scrolls of foliage of singular beauty. On this side, too, is an
extensive terrace, descending into the ground, with a rusticated
front; and a balustrade with pedestals supporting vases of antique and
classical models; and at each end an open Ionic temple, intended to be
used as a summer conservatory.

The _north_ front facing Piccadilly is of the same style and character
with the garden front, but of lighter proportions. Here are the king's
private apartments, from choice, comparatively small and compact, and
the cabinet picture-gallery. Here, also, the terrace is continued, and
a similar Ionic temple conservatory placed at the other extremity.
Thus, his majesty's windows look out between these conservatories,
upon the flower-garden spread below.

We are bound to acknowledge our partial, if not entire concurrence,
in the general criticism on the central front, and of the two wings.
The first impression is far from that produced by unity, grandeur, or
elegance; there is a fantastical assemblage of turrets, attics, and
chimneys, and a poverty or disproportion, especially in "the temple-like
forms" which complete the ends towards the park. The dome, too, has been
sarcastically compared with a "Brobdignagian egg." It strictly belongs
to the back part of the palace, and had it been screened from the front,
its form might have been less objectionable.

Of the internal arrangements of the palace, little is as yet perfectly
known. On the principal floor of the centre, between the east and west
suites of rooms, runs a splendid picture and statue gallery (the whole
length of the building); the light into which is to be admitted from
the sides, in a slanting direction, by metal skylights. The ceiling
has iron girders thrown across, and is arched with combs, each having
the ends closed, with the exception of a small hole (like an inverted
flower-pot), which admits a current of air to circulate through the
floor. The roof of this gallery is flat, and covered with slate
embedded in a composition of hot coal-tar, lime, and sand: the roofing
of the other parts of the palace is mostly covered with a similar
composition, but _not_ slated. The approach to the gallery is up the
grand stairs, and through several rooms, in which will be disposed the
king's magnificent collection of armour. The floors throughout are
fireproof, formed of iron joists, and arched with hollow bricks of
a singular construction.

The group for the pediment of the _east facade_ of the palace,
representing the triumph of Britannia, by Mr. Bailey, is nearly
finished.

The original gardens of Buckingham House, an extensive space, will
of course continue to be the grounds of the new royal residence; but
considerable alterations have been made to render them eligible for that
purpose. In order to conceal from the windows the great pile of stables
lately erected in Pimlico, near the lower end of Grosvenor-place, a
large artificial mound has been raised, and planted with curious trees
and shrubs.[1] The whole area now assumes all the appearances of natural
hill and dale, is finely wooded, diversified with flowering and
evergreen shrubs, with fine lawns broken into parterres, and possessing
a noble serpentine piece of water, so disposed as to give the idea of
great extent.[2] This water winds round clumps of forest trees, which
have been preserved for that purpose, and all that could be retained of
the previously existing scene. It is supplied from a large circular
reservoir, (near the top of the hill at Hyde Park Corner,) which is fed
by a main from the Serpentine river. This reservoir, almost like a Roman
work for magnitude, may be made a beautiful feature in the gardens--in
copious and refreshing fountains, but not in pools and ornamental
basins, such as are included in the anathema of Dr. Macculloch.

Although the scheme of the garden may, like many other projects, look
better _on paper_, than in practice, it affords ample space for the
display of much skill in artificial gardening. St. Cloud and Versailles
have their fountains, and why not St. James's? "Fountains, (that
sprinkle or spout water, or convey water, _as it never stays_ in
the bowls or the cistern,)" says Lord Bacon, are a great beauty and
refreshment; "but pools mar all, and make the garden unwholesome,
and full of flies and frogs."

    [1] This mound is said to resemble, in miniature, the scenery of
        Cumberland and Westmoreland. Perhaps this is too courtly; but
        it is surprising what the union of nature and art may effect in
        this way. Barrett, Cipriani, and Gilpin contrived to paint a room
        for Mr. Lock, at Norbury Park, so as to blend the scenery of
        Cumberland and Westmoreland, with the view from the windows, and
        to make it appear a continuation; and the effect was delightful,
        as thousands of delighted visiters have testified.

    [2] Some years since there was at Reigate, in Surrey, a successful
        attempt made in this style of laying out grounds, on the very
        site where the illustrious Lord Shaftesbury wrote his
        "Characteristics," and probably the very background of the
        Gribelin frontispiece to the early edition of that invaluable
        work. This spot came afterwards into the possession of a
        gentleman who laid it out and planted it in so many forms, as
        to comprise in miniature whatever can be supposed in the most
        noble seats; for in it were a mount, river, parterre, wilderness,
        and gardens, and a lawn containing four or five deer, terminated
        by a small wood; yet the whole extent of ground did not exceed
        four acres. This occasioned it to be called _all the world in
        an acre_. Something of this kind was also projected by John
        Evelyn, called _Elysium Britannicum_, the plan of which is to
        be found in his works; but he did not complete his scheme.
        Gardening is one of the most interesting amusements of retirement,
        and without gardens, palaces are but "gross handyworks."
        Philosophers and Heroes have always been fondly attached to
        gardens, and their retreats must form an agreeable relief to
        the cumbrous cares of Royalty itself.

       *       *       *       *       *


ST. JAMES'S PARK.

_References to the Plan_.


1. Parade at the Horse Guards.

2. Park planted as a garden, with shrubberies and paths.

3. Ornamental Water, containing three islands, planted with shrubs.

4. The new Terrace, fronting the Grand Mall.

5. New House now building.

6. Carlton-street.

7. Continuation of Waterloo-place, opening to the Park, with an
ornamental Circus in the centre.

8. United Service Club House and Garden.

9. Athenaeum Club House, with Pleasure-Grounds behind.

10. Travellers' Club House.

11. Heralds' College.

12. Cockspur-street.

13. Pall Mall.

14. New Stable Yard.

15. Marlborough-house-street.

16. St. James's Palace.

17. Present Stable Yards.

18. Duke of York's House.

19. Late Carriage-road in the Park.

20. New Carriage-road, recently the Northern Mall.

21. The new Mall, now the Northern Mall.

       *       *       *       *       *

INTENDED IMPROVEMENTS IN THE PARKS.


[Illustration: Intended Improvements in the Parks.]


22. A Splendid Triumphal Arch, in the front of the New Palace.

23. The King's Palace, on the site of Buckingham House.

24. Terrace behind the Palace; there is also a grand Terrace fronting
the gardens.

25. Palace Garden, laid out in a picturesque style; including a line
sheet of ornamental water, with a carriage-way from an entrance  at
Hyde Park Corner.

26. The Green Park.

27. The King's Stables, including those recently built, and others
which are in contemplation.

28. James-street, leading from Buckingham Gate to Westminster, with
thirteen new houses fronting the Park.

29. Stafford-row, with ten new houses, extending to the Gun Tavern,
and continuing to Ward's-row, from whence Arabella-row runs, at the
side of the King's Stable.

A road extends from Great George-street, Westminster, through
Bird-cage walk, to Grosvenor-place, for private carriages, on the side
of which, marked 5 in the plan, (in front of the present barracks,) a
row of new houses will be erected.

The present Guard house at Buckingham Gate will be removed, and a new
Guard house erected close to the wall of the new stables in
James-street.

There may, perhaps, be some alteration in the distribution of the
interior of the Park, as to the form of the paths; but the water will
assume, as nearly as possible, the present shape, and the public will
have access to the whole of the Park.

Lamentations long and loud have been poured forth on the late
neglected state of St. James's Park. An intelligent home tourist in
1813, says, "It concerned me to observe that this park presents at
this time a neglected appearance, unworthy of a metropolitan royal
park, adjoining to the constant residence of the court." He goes on to
say, "My heart ached, and the tears started from my eyes as I brought
to mind the crowds of beauty, rank, and fashion, which till within
these few years used to be displayed in the centre mall on evenings
during the spring and summer. Here used to promenade, for one or two
hours after dinner, the whole British world of gaiety, beauty, and
splendour! Here could be seen in one moving mass, extending the whole
length of the mall 10,000 of the most lovely women, in this country of
female beauty, all splendidly attired, and accompanied by as many
well-dressed men.  The present promenades in Hyde-Park lose the effect
produced by rank and distinguished character, owing to those classes
being shut up in their carriages." Another writer, speaking of the
park in Charles's time, with its Dorimants, Millamours, and
Millamants, says, "every thing around breathes of beauty and gaiety,
the air is courtly, silks are rustling, and feathers fluttering in the
mall; fair forms are hovering, and bright eyes glancing round; at
every turn you encounter lords and beauties." In the "neglected state"
we have long concurred; and we sympathize with our tourist in his
other lament; for the former we have a remedy at last, and it affords
us pleasure to know that the first of these tourists possesses health
and vigour to watch the progress of the _improvements in the parks_;
and we hope that he may live many years to enjoy their completion. But
for the second evil, we fear there is no remedy, since the disease is
mortal to social happiness; unless that the proffered improvements may
once more reinstate the Montpellier promenades of the park in
fashion's favour. Editors are, however, very subordinate personages,
when

  ----Fashion so directs, and moderns raise
  On fashion's mould'ring base their transient praise.

Be this as it may, _we_, who are so _un_fashionable as to be
occasional promenaders in the parks, rejoice to present our readers
with the annexed plan of the improvements now in progress in St.
James's Park, and in conjunction with the palace works they denote the
simultaneous study of the happiness of the sovereign and the subject.
Our country readers, surrounded by all the blooming attributes of
health, will doubtless congratulate such important improvements of
what has been termed "the lungs of the metropolis."

The annexed plan is reduced from the engraving which accompanied the
Treasury Minute, January 19, 1827; from which the following are
extracts:--

    "The Earl of Liverpool and the Chancellor of the Exchequer lay before
    the Board a plan for building on the North and South sides of St.
    James's Park, (in addition to the buildings already sanctioned upon
    the site of Carlton Gardens;) and also for making some considerable
    alterations in the distribution of the intermediate ground, whereby
    the appearance of the park would be much improved, while a very
    material accommodation would be afforded to the public.

    "They state, that they have received the King's commands to convey to
    the Board his Majesty's most gracious approbation of this proposal,
    and his pleasure that the necessary steps should be taken, with as
    little delay as possible, for carrying the measure into execution, so
    far as it respects the South side of the park, and the alteration of
    the ground comprised in it.

    "My Lords perceive, that by this plan the whole of the space in St.
    James's Park, now laid out in grass, and from which the public are
    excluded, will be thrown open (with the exception of the parts to be
    planted) for the use of persons on foot."

The magnificent range of buildings intended to occupy the site of
Carlton-house and gardens, and to extend from Spring Garden, Charing
Cross on the _east_, to the Ordnance office, in Pall Mall, on the
_west_, is already commenced in the last mentioned quarter. The
substructure is a terrace, (containing the domestic offices,) of about
53 feet wide--its architecture of the Paestum Doric order surmounted
by a balustrade. The order of the superstructure is Corinthian. In the
centre of the range will be a fountain formed of the eight columns of
the portico of Carlton-house, with eight additional columns on the
same model. The basement story of all the houses is to be supplied
with water by the overflow of this fountain and jets.

       *       *       *       *       *


Our _third_ Engraving represents the Grand Lodge Entrance to the New
Palace, and resembles the arch in the front of the palace. The frieze
of this gateway or arch, which is said to possess great merit, is
still in the course of execution. Altogether this structure may be
expected to form an approach of suitable splendour to the royal
domain, whilst it bids fair to rank among the most interesting of the
modern architectural embellishments of the metropolis.

       *       *       *       *       *


Such is an outline of the improvements now in progress in St. James's
Park and its vicinity. The palace may have fallen short of some
expectations, but with all its imperfections, it will, when completed,
be a pile of immense magnitude, with much of the grandeur and
magnificence appertaining to regal splendour. His majesty will reside
there when in his capital, and it is not an indifferent trait to
observe, that it will not be altogether strange to his eyes; for every
mantle and movable piece of Carlton palace, which can be used in the
palace in St. James's Park, has been, or is about to be, removed
thither. Meanwhile, the recreation of the people is not unstudied in
the new arrangements of the park; indeed, it appears to be with their
illustrious originator a primary consideration, as will be seen on
reference to the treasury minute. Hence all loyal and grateful
subjects may join in the song of olden time:

  God prosper long our noble king,
  Our lives and safeties all.


       *       *       *       *       *




Arcana of Science.

       *       *       *       *       *

CAPTAIN PARRY'S EXPEDITION.

(_Abridged from the Literary Gazette._)


On Saturday, September 29th, Captain Parry from his Arctic, and
Captain Franklin from his North-American expedition, arrived at the
Admiralty within half an hour of each other![3]

Captain Parry may himself be taken as a specimen of the health of his
crew; he looks as well as when he set out on his bold undertaking.

The sum of the intelligence which has transpired is, that the Hecla
having arrived at Hamerfest, took in the rein-deer for dragging the
boats, snow-shoes, &c. for the journey over the ice. Having reached
the coast of Spitzbergen, a heavy gale drove the ship among packed
ice, where she was entangled for several weeks, to the 6th of June.
Here the first effort to proceed in the manner projected was tried on
two boats commanded by Captain Parry and Lieut. Ross; but the ice
broke up, and it was speedily relinquished. The Hecla then wrought to
the north as far as Seven Islands, where finding no harbour, she put
back. By the 19th of June, however, having cut through a formidable
barrier, to the Wratskel of Van Henloopen, a second attempt to get
forward in the ice-boats was strenuously made. Unfortunately the ice
was what is called rotten, and so irregular as to render success
impossible. Nothing could exceed the fatigues and difficulties of
transport; the boats had to be loaded and unloaded many times in the
course of a few hours; and no field-ice was met with, to any extent,
over which they might glide on their way. The party at last attained
the latitude of 82 deg., and three quarters N.; or to between four and
five hundred miles of the Pole. Heavy rains prevailed, and the ice
over which they were travelling so laboriously towards the north, was
itself drifting more rapidly to the south than the distances which
they could accomplish. Thus, the last three days having been spent in
this disheartening and fruitless toil,--half the provisions being
exhausted,--some of the men falling sick, and being reported unfit for
exertion,--the scurvy threatening them,--and no hope of any favourable
change remaining--our brave countrymen were compelled to abandon their
impracticable design. They accordingly returned to the Hecla, and on
the 24th of September put into Longhope, in the Orkneys, without
having experienced any loss by death. The whole period occupied in
these exertions on the ice is stated to have been sixty-one days.

The highest latitude to which the Hecla reached was 81 deg. 6 min.
believed to be the farthest north that ever a ship made her way; so
that all that was made in the boats was 1 deg. 39 min. At the farthest
point north, no barrier of ice was seen, so that the idea of such a
barrier always existing may now be dismissed. The ice found by the
present expedition was of a very chaotic form. For about a mile,
perhaps, it might be tolerably smooth; but at every interval huge
ridges were crushed up by the action of tides and currents. No sooner
was this obstacle over, and one of these rugged and precipitous masses
overcome, than another appeared. There was plenty of fresh water on
the surface, but towards the end of the attempt, when the rains fell,
the ridges separated, and between them the salt sea flowed like so
many canals. It was found impossible to make any use of the rein-deer
in dragging the boats; and as there were no means of feeding dogs (as
once proposed,) the whole work was performed by personal labour.
Officers and men, twenty-eight in number, were alike harnessed to the
tackle, and wrought in common at the exhausting toil. Their time for
stalling in the _morning_ (their morning being the beginning of the
_night_,) was chosen when the light was least injurious to the eyes;
for though the sun shone upon them during the whole period, and there
was no darkness, yet when that luminary was lowest in the horizon, the
reflection from the bright white surface of snow was more endurable.
They could not, however, bear up under the fatigue. During their whole
march they were soaking wet to the knees, and benumbed by a
temperature always at or near the freezing point. At the close of
twelve or fourteen hours thus occupied, when they came to seek rest by
lying down, the change of their wet for dry stockings and fur boots
caused such a reaction, that the tingling and smart were insufferable.

When Captain Parry found that the men could not support their toils on
the allowance, (of about nineteen ounces per twenty-four hours, of
pemecan and biscuit-powder.) he added, by way of luxury, a pint of hot
water at night. This was found to be very restorative, warming the
system; and if a little of the dinner food had been saved, it made a
broth of great relish and value. Spirits were not drank; and the
reason why even hot water was scarce, was, that it took so large a
stock of their spirits of wine to boil it and the cocoa, that the
quantity consumed could not safely be increased.

The ice itself was drifting faster to the south than they could make
their way over it to the north: thus, during the last three days of
their struggle, instead of gaining a higher latitude, they were
actually two miles farther south than when they set out. This put an
end to the expedition where everything which human energy and
perseverance could do, was done so fruitlessly.

While the boats were away, the Hecla was not exempt from dangers. She
had been wrought into a snug birth near the shore. A-head there were
about three miles of ice; and a heavy gale coming on, detached this
prodigious mass, and drove it with terrible violence against the ship.
The cables were cut asunder, the anchors lost, and the poor Hecla
forced high and dry upon the coast, by the irresistible pressure.
Having got her again to the water, however, they proceeded to Weygatt
Straits.

It is vexatious to be forced to the conviction that any attempt to
reach the North Pole is but too likely to end in disappointment; but
every fresh enterprise seems to lead to this conclusion.

Hudson, whose name is perpetuated in the bay, reached lat. 82 (as is
laid down) in the year 1606; and a Scottish journal states, that the
Neptune whaler, in 1816, got as high as 83 deg. 20 min.; but of the
accuracy of this statement we have great doubts.

_The Land Arctic Expedition._--About the end of June, 1826, Captain
Franklin arrived at the last of the Hudson Bay company's posts, named
Fort Good Hope, in lat. 67 deg. 28 min. N., long. 130 deg. 53 min. W.;
with the expedition under his command in excellent health and spirits.

Three days' journey from thence, on the 4th of July, he despatched a
party to the eastward, under the command of Dr. Richardson, and
proceeded himself, in command of another party, by the western channel
of Mackenzie's river, which flows at the foot of the Rocky Mountains,
and completed a survey of the coast from long. 113 deg. W. to 149 deg.
38 min. W. He was much impeded in his progress by the constant
obstruction of ice, unbroken from the shore, in many parts, until the
4th of August--by the prevalence of fogs--and by the nature of the sea
coast, which to the westward of the 140th degree is so extremely low
and flat as to be unapproachable, even in boats, nearer than two or
three miles. Indeed, beyond the 139th degree it was found impossible
to land on the main shore, except at one point; and there they were
most vexatiously detained eight days, in the best part of the season,
by fog.

Before Captain Franklin had reached more than half way to Icy Cape,
most of his party shewed symptoms of extreme suffering, from their
unavoidable exposure to wading in the water, for the purpose of dragging
the boats where they landed to rest or to get fresh water, or
when compelled by gales to seek the shore. The temperature of the water
was generally about the freezing-point, whilst that of the air seldom
exceeded 36 degrees. The coast westward of Mackenzie's river, under
any circumstances, was extremely hazardous to navigate; but under the
difficulties which Captain Franklin experienced, further perseverance on
his part would have been unpardonable rashness. The whole party being
of opinion that the obstructions were insurmountable, were compelled to
return, in the conviction, however, that the navigation of the northwest
passage is open.

The eastern party, under Dr. Richardson, who was accompanied by Mr.
Kendall, an intelligent young officer, succeeded in reaching the
Coppermine river on the 8th of August, and returned to Fort Franklin,
Great Bear Lake, on the 1st of September. Like that under the command
of Captain Franklin, they experienced repeated obstructions from ice,
and occasionally from strong breezes; but they were spared the foggy
weather, except on parts of two days.

The object of Dr. Richardson's party was to examine the intermediate
coast between the Mackenzie and the coppermine rivers. After
separating from Captain Franklin, on the 4th of July, they pursued the
easternmost channel of the Mackenzie, until the 7th of that month,
when finding that it distributed itself by various outlets, of which
the more easterly were not navigable, for their boats, they chose a
middle one, and that night got into brackish water, with an open view
of the sea, in lat. 69 deg. 29 min. N., long. 133 deg. 24 min. W.

On the 11th, in lat. 69 deg. 42 min. N., long. 132 deg. 10 min. W.,
the water was perfectly salt, the sea partially covered with drift
ice, and no land visible to seaward. They experienced considerable
difficulty in crossing the estuaries of several rivers, which were
deemed to be outlets of the shallow channels of the Mackenzie, that
had been left to the eastward. They suffered, besides, some detention
from ice and bad weather; and it was not until the 18th of July that,
in lat. 70 deg. 37 min., long. 126 deg. 52 min. N., they got entirely
clear of the widely spreading mouths of the Mackenzie, and of a large
lake of brackish water, which seems to receive one of the branches of
that river. The navigation across these wide estuaries was very
embarrassing.

This danger was gladly exchanged for a coasting voyage in the open
sea. They rounded Cape Parry, in lat. 70 deg. 8 min. N., long. 123
deg. W.; Cape Krusenstern in lat. 60 deg. 46 min. N., long. 114 deg.
45 min. W.; and entered George the IVth Coronation Gulf, by the
Dolphin and Union Straits (so named after the boats), which brought
them within sight of Cape Barrow, and two degrees of longitude to the
eastward of the coppermine river. Their sea voyage terminated as
beforementioned, on the 8th of August, by their actually entering that
river.

Although they saw much heavy floe ice, some of it aground even in nine
fathom water, yet none of it bore marks of being more than one season
old; and from the heights of land they could discern lanes of open
water outside,--so that a ship, properly strengthened for such a
voyage, could make way through it with a favouring breeze.

Throughout the whole line of coast they had regular tides, the flood
setting from the eastward; the rise and fall being from a foot to
twenty inches. In the Dolphin and Union Straits, the current in the
height of flood and ebb exceeded two miles an hour. They found drift
timber everywhere, and a large portion of it, on many parts of the
coast, lay in a line from ten to fifteen, and in some places upwards
of twenty feet, above the ordinary spring-tide water-mark, apparently
thrown up by a heavy sea.

After the first rapid, in the coppermine river, Dr. Richardson's party
abandoned the boats, with the remainder of their cargoes of provision,
iron-work, beads, &c. to the first party of Esquimaux which should
chance to pass that way; and on the 10th of August set out by land,
with ten days' provisions.

They reached the eastern end of Bear Lake, at the influx of Dease's
river, on the 18th, and remained there until the evening of the 24th,
before the boats arrived to convey them to Fort Franklin.

The person to whom the boats were entrusted, and who was sent off to
Fort Franklin on the 6th of August, did not arrive on the latest day
appointed for his appearance (the 20th), from a belief that Dr.
Richardson's party would never return, and that he should make a
needless voyage: and after the 20th Dr. Richardson was obliged to
distribute his party into hunting and fishing groups, to procure
subsistence. Dr. Richardson collected his party for embarkation on the
evening of the 28th; and they reached the fort, after an absence from
it of seventy-one days, the whole party in perfect health.

    [3] In the facetious poem entitled _May Fair_, in speaking of Captain
        Parry's undertaking, and predicting its probable want of success,
        the following prophetic couplet appears:--

             "Quarter-day you'll have him back,
             With his volume in his pack;"

        And lo! on quarter-day, the 29th of September, did Captain Parry
        make his appearance at the Admiralty!!


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