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[Illustration: Map of the Empire of MOROCCO for Dr. BUFFA'S TRAVELS]


TRAVELS

THROUGH THE

EMPIRE OF MOROCCO.

BY

JOHN BUFFA, M.D.

PHYSICIAN TO THE FORCES.


ILLUSTRATED WITH A MAP.

LONDON:


1810.




PREFACE.

My motives for publishing this volume of Travels, will be best
explained by a detail of the circumstances which gave rise to my
journey to Morocco. In 1805, I was serving in the capacity of
Physician to His Majesty's Forces, at the Depot Hospital in the Isle
of Wight; whence, by dexterous management of the Army Medical
Board[*], I was removed, and placed upon half-pay, in June of that
year. At this period, it occurred to Mr.  Turnbull, Chairman of the
Committee of Merchants trading to the Levant, that it would be of
advantage to the public, were the offices of Garrison Surgeon of
Gibraltar, and Inspecting Medical Officer of the ships doing
quarantine, which were then united in the person of Mr. Pym, separated
and made distinct appointments; and he was pleased to think that, from
my local knowledge, and other circumstances, I should be a proper
person to fill the latter of these offices. This was also the opinion
of His Royal Highness the Duke of Kent, Governor of the garrison.
Representations were accordingly made on the subject, to the then
Secretary of State for the War and Colonial Department, Lord
Castlereagh; and it was so fully understood that the proposition had
been assented to on his part, that an order was issued from the
Transport Board, to provide a passage for myself and family to
Gibraltar. There I waited some months, in the expectation that the
commission would be sent after me, but in vain. In the mean time, I
received a communication from Mr. Mattra, British Consul General at
Tangiers, requesting that I would cross over to Barbary, and attend
His Excellency the Governor of Larache, First Minister of the Emperor
of Morocco, then labouring under a dangerous illness. It was on my
return from this journey, that I found a letter from Mr. Turnbull (See
Appendix, No. III. p. 227), stating that my old friends of the Medical
Board had been at their usual work of persecution, and by their
scandalous misrepresentations to the new Secretary of State for War
and the Colonies, Mr. Windham, had succeeded in preventing the
appointment which His Royal Highness the Governor of Gibraltar had
been graciously pleased to design for me.

During my residence in Barbary it was my good fortune to gain the
approbation and friendship of the Emperor of Morocco, and of the
principal Officers of his Court, by which I was enabled to give
facilities to the procuring of fresh provisions for our Navy, and
render to my country other services, not strictly in the line of my
profession.  (See the various documents at the end of Appendix.)
Having succeeded in restoring the Governor of Larache to health, and
performed some other cures, acceptable to the Emperor of Morocco, I
considered the objects for which I had crossed over to Barbary
accomplished, and returned to Gibraltar, after having received the
most flattering marks of distinction, both from the Imperial Court,
and from Lord Collingwood, Commander of the British fleet in the
Mediterranean.  The letter of the Emperor of Morocco to His Majesty
(Appendix, No. X. p.  239) is an ample proof of the disposition of
that prince in my favour.

Finding the principal aim of my voyage to Gibraltar frustrated by the
machinations of the Medical Junta, whom I have already stated as ever
active in mischief, I determined to return to England. The letter of
the Emperor of Morocco to His Majesty, and a general certificate,
couched in the strongest terms of approbation, and signed by all the
principal merchants of Gibraltar, I thought were documents, which,
added to my correspondence with Lord Collingwood, and the officers of
his fleet, would not fail to have procured me a favourable reception,
and some attention to my claims.

But the letter of the Emperor of Morocco, as it still remains
unanswered, I cannot but believe has never been presented to His
Majesty.  Nay, the pressing solicitations, with which I have since
been honoured on the part of the Emperor of Morocco, through his
principal Minister, to return to that country, I have hitherto been
obliged to delay answering, that I might not, on the one hand, insult,
by evasive or false replies, a government from which I had experienced
such friendship and respect; or, on the other hand, be compelled, by a
true statement, to compromise my own.

The principal design of publishing this account of my journey to the
Barbary States, is to shew the good policy, on the part of this
country, of keeping upon terms of strict amity with the government of
Morocco. The neglect, which, on this occasion, has been evinced of the
Emperor's letter, I cannot but consider, in a public point of view, as
extremely reprehensible, independently of the private injury it has
occasioned to myself.  Whether this neglect arose from the
misrepresentations of the Army Medical Board, or from those of any
other persons, I will not pretend to determine; but in any case, a
most censurable disregard, even of the forms of civility, towards a
Prince, who, however we may affect to despise his influence in the
great political scale, has it always in his power materially to
promote or to impede the interests of this country in the Levant, must
attach to some quarter or other.

  [*] As the members of that body are expected shortly to be dismissed
  from their situations, I think it right, lest at any future period
  injustice should be done to innocent individuals, by confounding
  them with the guilty, here to state that Sir Lucas Pepys,
  Bart. Mr. Thomas Keate, and Mr. Francis Knight, Apothecaries, at
  present compose the body illegally calling themselves the Army
  Medical Board, whose conduct for a great many years has brought
  disgrace and disaster on that important department.  For a detail of
  their conduct, see "An Analytical View of the Medical Department of
  the British Army, by Charles Maclean, M.D." 8vo. published by
  Stockdale, Pall Mall.



CONTENTS.


LETTER I.

Inducement for the Journey--Arrive at Tangiers--Its History--
Situation--Inhabitants--Military--Governor--Fortifications--
Subterraneous Passage--Socco, or Market--Adjacent Villas--Invited to
Larache.

LETTER II.

Sketch of the History of Morocco--Road from Tangiers--Simplicity of
the Peasants--Moors hospitable--Arrive at a Village--The ancient
Zelis--Public Accommodations--Much infested with Vermin--Arzilla, a
ruinous walled Town--Arrive at Larache.

LETTER III.

Conducted to the Governor--Medical Hint from his Secretary--Governor
recovers--Larache--Its Harbour, Shipping, and Inhabitants.

LETTER IV.

Excursion to Mamora, and thence lo Salee--Friendly Reception by the
Governor of the latter--Rabat--Tower of Hassen--Shella--Mansooria--
Alcasser--Quiber--Its Socco, or Market-place.

LETTER V.

Leave Larache with an Escort--Curious Custom on returning from
Mecca--Arrive at Tetuan.

LETTER VI.

Ill Usage of a Lieutenant of the Swiftsure--Disaffection of the
Moorish Governor towards Great Britain.

LETTER VII.

Sail for Tetuan--Appearance of the Coast--Enter the Boosega
River--Curious Towers of Defence--Custom-house--Female Dress--Enter
Tetuan over a Road of unlevelled Rock--Disagreeable Streets--Well
received by the Governor--Public Markets--Socco--An Auction Market.

LETTER VIII.

Tetuan--The Jews much oppressed there--particularly the
Females--Costume--Singularity of the Streets in the Jewish
Town--Ceuta--Would be invaluable to England--Melilla--Summoned to
visit the Emperor.

LETTER IX.

Journey to Larache--Annual Socco of St. Martin--No Christian permitted
to witness it--Express Order for that Purpose in the Author's
Favour--Specimen of native medical Skill--Reception at
Larache--Complain of the Impositions of Governor Ash-Ash--Comparative
Tariff--Effect the Renewal of the old Tariff with increasing
Advantages.

LETTER X.

Depart from Larache with a little Army--Moorish military
Salute--Numerous Villages--Customary Procession of the
Inhabitants--Judicial Arrangements--River Beth resembles the Po--Herds
of Camels--Arrive at Mequinez--French Falsehood again put
down--Excellent Road from Mequinez--Fertility and Luxuriance of the
adjacent Country--Procession to the Sanctuary of Sidy
Edris--Multiplicity of Saints--Ceremony demonstrative of the Emperor's
Favour--Take possession of my new Residence.

LETTER XI.

Imperial Review of eighty thousand Cavalry--The Palace--Introduction
to the Emperor--Visit the Seraglio--Beauty of the Sultana--Her
Indisposition--Her Influence over the Emperor--His Person described.

LETTER XII.

Succession of the Sovereigns from their Founder to the present
Emperor.

LETTER XIII.

Responsibility of the Governors--Empire beautiful and
productive--Humane Efforts of the Emperor--Blind Submission to his
Will--Great Number of Negroes naturalized--The Moors might be truly
formidable--Emperor's Brother--Fez divided into two
Parts--Magnificent Mosques--Commercial Privileges--Indignities which
Christians undergo--Singular Supply of Water--The Imperial
Gardens--Propensity to
defraud--Factories--Exports--Costume--Character---Manner of
Living--Domestic Vermin.

LETTER XIV.

Fez--Debility of the Moors--Mosques--Antiquities, Roman, Carthaginian,
and Saracen--Storks held in great Veneration--Baths--Bazars--
Inhabitants--Residence--Menagerie--Marvellous Preservation of a
Jew--Lions-- Tigers--Leopards--Hyenas.

LETTER XV.

Sudden Departure from Fez--Arrive at Mequinez--Attend the
Emperor--Melancholy Catastrophe--Expedition against wild
Beasts--Extensive Palaces--Seraglio--Visit a Haram--Founders of the
City--A fortified Town--Inhabitants--Jewish Town--Rich Attire of the
higher Orders--Numerous Market-places--Furniture--Saints
Houses--Imperial Field Sports--Pack of Greyhounds--Abundance of Game.

LETTER XVI.

Courtship--Marriage--Funerals--Sabbath.

LETTER XVII.

Depart from Morocco--Roads dreadfully infested by Robbers--A Tribe of
aboriginal Freebooters--Description of Morocco--Filth of the common
People--Tobacco disallowed--Justice of the Emperor.

LETTER XVIII.

Moorish Character--Form of Devotion--Meals--Revenue--Poll-tax on the
Jews--Royal Carriages--Ostrich-riding--Public Schools--Watch-dogs.

LETTER XIX.

Face and Produce of the Empire, natural and artificial.

LETTER XX.

Practice of Physic--Astrology--Poetry--Entertainment given by the
Author to the Moors--Their Astonishment at the Effects of Electricity.

LETTER XXI.

Prevalent Diseases--Abuse of Stimulants--Medicinal
Well--Sorcery--Hydrophobia.

LETTER XXII.

Depart for Gibraltar--Oppressive Heat--Robbers--Arrive at
Larache--Affray of some English Sailors--Letter from the Governor to
Lord Collingwood.

LETTER XXIII.

Embark for Gibraltar--Precautionary Hints.


APPENDIX.

No. I.--Letter from J. Turnbull, Esq. General Chairman of the
Merchants trading to the Mediterranean, recommending Dr. Buffa for a
civil medical Appointment at Gibraltar.--Dated 5th August 1805.

No. II.--Letter from the Secretary of the Transport Board, informing
Dr. Buffa that a Passage in one of His Majesty's Transports to
Gibraltar was ordered for him and his Family.

No. III.--Extract of a Letter from John Turnbull, Esq. Chairman of the
Committee of Merchants trading to the Levant, &c. to Dr.  Buffa.

No. IV.--Extract of a Letter from John Ross, Esq. Acting Consul
General at Tangiers, to Dr. Buffa.

No V.--Letter sent by a Courier from the Court of Morocco to J. Ross,
Esq. by Permission of His Imperial Majesty's First Minister, after
Dr. Buffa's having finally settled the Difference excited at that Time
by the French Party in Barbary, between that Country and Great
Britain.

No. VI.--Letter from Captain Stewart, of His Majesty's Ship Seahorse,
to the Government of Morocco, for Supplies; which Dr. Buffa was
directed to answer, after having procured the said Supplies without
any Charge.

No. VII.--Letter from Admiral the Right Hon.  Lord Collingwood, to the
Government of Morocco, in answer to Dr. Buffa's Official Letter to
Captain Stewart, touching on various public Matters.

No. VIII.--An Official Letter written by Dr.  Buffa, by particular
Direction of the Emperor of Morocco, in answer to a Letter of Lord
Collingwood of the 8th July 1806, giving his Lordship Information of
the happy Termination of the Negotiations which Dr. Buffa carried on,
and which all the Representations of Mr. Ross to that Court were
unable to effect; which gave rise to a very long and expensive
Correspondence between Mr. Ross and Dr. Buffa, Long carried on by
constant Couriers.

No. IX.--Letter written by Command of the Emperor of Morocco, to Lord
Collingwood, in favour of Dr. Buffa.

No. X.--Translation of a Letter from the Emperor of Morocco to the
King. Referred to in the Petition.

Nos. XI. and XII.--Copies of two Letters received from the Government
bf Morocco, to which Dr. Buffa has hitherto been unable to reply.





TRAVELS,

&c.



LETTER I.

Inducement for the Journey--Arrive at Tangiers--Its History--
Situation--Inhabitants--Military--Governor--Fortifications--
Subterraneous Passage--Socco, or Market--Adjacent Villas--Invited to
Larache.


Tangiers, January 12th, 1806.

I have long felt very desirous to visit a country, which,
notwithstanding the many revolutions it has undergone, and the
enlightened characters of its conquerors, is regarded as still
immersed in a degree of barbarism almost unparalleled. It appeared to
me next to impossible that a nation so contiguous to Europe, with
which it has for centuries maintained a constant intercourse, could
have remained in a state of such profound ignorance.

Impressed with these ideas, I readily embraced the offer of a friend
to accompany him from Gibraltar to this place, intending to travel
further up the country, should I meet with sufficient inducement from
the result of my observations here. We landed on the first of this
month, and the intermediate time I have employed in obtaining
information relative to the town of Tangiers from the earliest
tradition to the present time. As the particulars I have collected do
not appear devoid of Interest, I flatter myself, you will be gratified
that I should have made them the subject of a letter.

This town, which by the ancients was called _Tingis_, or Tingir, and
appears to have been the metropolis of the _Western Mauritania_, or
Tingitania, as it was named, to distinguish it from _Mauritania
Caesariensis_; according to Pliny and others, was first founded
ed fay _Antaeus_ (about a thousand years before Christ), the
same who was afterwards conquered and slain by _Hercules_. The giant
is supposed to have been buried here: and the report of Plutarch, that
his tomb was opened by Sertorius, and a corpse sixty cubits or more in
length, taken out of it, confirms the idea.  But according to others,
_Tingis_, or the present _Tangiers_, lays claim to a more ancient
founder than _Antaeus_. Procopius mentions, that in his time
were standing two pillars of white stone, upon which were inscribed in
the Phoenician characters the following words: _"We are the Canaanites
who fed from Joshua, the son of Nun."_

A colony of Carthaginians settled here, and it is most probable that a
flourishing trade was carried on by them, as the situation of Tangiers
is extremely well adapted for that purpose. Indeed the name _Tingis_,
in the language of the Phoenicians and Carthaginians, signifies an
_emporium_. When the Mauritaniae became subject to the Romans,
in the reign of Julius Caesar, Bocchus, the son-in-law of
Jugurtha, having defeated Bogud, the king of _Mauritania Tingitania_,
he became possessed of that country, and Augustus, or, as some say,
Octavius, confirmed this acquisition to him; and the inhabitants of
_Tingis_ were allowed the privileges of Roman citizens.

I cannot discover any thing further remarkable of Tangiers from the
time it became a Roman colony, and during the period it was possessed
by the Saracens, till the latter end of the fourteenth century, when
it was taken by the Portuguese, who erected fortifications and other
public works. It continued in their possession for nearly two
centuries; and was at length given to our King, Charles the Second, as
part of the dowry of his consort Catharine, We did not keep it long;
for, owing to the little harmony that subsisted between that Monarch
and his Parliament, it was ceded to the Moors in 1684, after we had
blown up all the fortifications, and utterly destroyed the
harbour. Since that event, it seems to have been gradually dwindling
into its present insignificance.

I have before observed, that the situation of Tangiers is well adapted
to the purposes of commerce, being about two miles within the Straits
of Gibraltar (or Hercules); but the ruins of the fortifications and
harbour have rendered the anchorage in the bay of Tangiers very
unsafe. This is a great obstacle to trade; very little is carried on
there at present, and that little is by a few Jews, and lately, by a
Spanish merchant of the name of Don Pedro.

The town being built on the declivity of that high tract of land
called Cape Spartel (the Cape _Cottes_ or _Ampelusian_ of the
ancients), it is seen at a great distance; but on entering the bay, it
appears to the best advantage.  It is defended by two martello towers,
a castle, and a large battery; but I am confident that it could not
withstand the attack of a few English frigates, and that such a force
from the bay might destroy the town in the space of a few
hours. Notwithstanding the vicissitudes to which this place has been
exposed, it still possesses a superiority over the other towns in the
empire of Morocco; it is the capital of the kingdom, and the residence
of the Consuls General of the powers in amity with his Imperial
Majesty. The houses of these foreign residents are constructed with
great taste in the European style; the habitations of the Moors are
neat; the air is pure and salubrious; the supply of excellent water,
abundant; and the market cheap and plentiful.  This combination of
advantages renders Tangiers, in many points of view, an eligible
residence. The European society, which consists almost solely of the
families of the foreign consuls, is pleasant and agreable, The
adjacent country is beautifully romantic; and the opposite coast and
bay present a most delightful prospect. The Moorish inhabitants are
all soldiers, very poor, and entirely subject to the arbitrary will of
the Emperor.  It is capable of furnishing, at a moment's warning,
three thousand cavalry, and two thousand infantry and artillery-men;
but these troops are badly trained, and without order or discipline: I
attended their evening parade yesterday, and was truly diverted with
the sorry appearance of their best militia-men, who were to mount
guard for the night.  These Moorish soldiers are remarkably addicted
to cheating. It is probably owing to their excessive indolence, which
prevents them from making the usual exertions for obtaining a
livelihood, and induces them to adopt the more expeditious mode of
extorting from strangers the means of subsistence; but as they are not
often presented with an object of prey, they continually labour
against the pressure of extreme poverty. Tangiers is under the
government of Sidy Ash-Ash; who resides at Tetuan. He is by no means
partial to the English, but devoted to France; influenced by French
principles, and French interest. Excepting a few small armed vessels,
fitted out for piracy, there is no shipping in the harbour. I have
observed none for the purpose of commerce; all their goods are
exported in foreign bottoms; and when they bring in a prize, the
vessel remains unsold for a considerable length of time, and it is
always disposed of to a foreign merchant.

Several remains of the European fortifications are yet visible; the
Moors have repaired some, among which the western bastions still form
a principal part of the strength of the place. The castle, which
appears to have been built before the time of the Portuguese, stands
in a commanding position upon one of the most prominent rocks of this
coast. By an order of the Emperor, all the civil and military officers
of this town are obliged to reside in it.

From this castle is a subterraneous passage containing many curious
remnants of antiquity.  On each side of the passage are ruinous
apartments, which we may readily suppose to have been designed as
places for the concealment of treasures, or receptacles for the
dead. From the fragments of some urns I have collected, upon which are
to be traced parts of inscriptions in the Punic character, I imagine
this subterraneous place to have been built by the Carthaginians, for
one or both of those purposes. It extends from the castle to several
miles without the gates of the town; whence we may likewise infer,
that it served as a means of escape in case of a sudden insurrection,
or siege. Here are several superb mosques and commodious public baths.

The _Socco_, or market, is held twice a week (on Sunday and
Wednesday), in a spacious sandy square, outside of the western gate,
whereto the peasants bring all kinds of provisions, and other
necessaries, which are sold at very low rates. Fish and every sort of
wild fowl are brought in daily, and sold very cheap. Among the
Consuls' villas, some of which are built near the spot where the
_Socco_ is held, that of the Swedish Consul is the most worthy of
notice. The pleasure-ground is laid out with great taste in orange
groves; the gardens abound in fruit-trees, and the Consul has made a
curious botanical collection.

I have just been interrupted by Mr. Matra, our Consul. He called to
request me to go up to Larache, to attend the Governor, who is
dangerously ill, and has sent here for an English physician. I
intended to have continued a brief account of this empire, from the
time it became a Roman province to the introduction of Mahometanism;
also by what means the Moors became mixed with Arabs: but I must
reserve this for the next opportunity.




LETTER II.

_Sketch of the History of Morocco--Road from Tangiers--Simplicity of
the Peasants--Moors hospitable--Arrive at a Village--The ancient
Zelis--Public Accommodations--Much infested with Vermin--Arzilla, a
ruinous walled Town--Arrive at Larache_.


Larache, January 1806.

Before I proceed to give you the particulars of my journey to this
place, I shall fulfil tho promise I made you in my last.

The present empire of Morocco is properly the _Mauritania Tingitania_
of the Romans, as the _Mauritania Caesariensis_ comprised
Algiers, Tripoli, and Tunis; and was so called from the Emperor
Claudius.  _Tingitania_ was not decidedly reduced to a Roman province
till after the death of _Bocchus_.  Augustus afterwards gave the two
Mauritanias, and a part of _Getulia_, to the younger _Juba_, as a
remuneration for the loss of his father's kingdom
(_Numidia_). _Ptolemy_, his son, by _Cleopatra_ (daughter of _Antony_
and _Cleopatra_), succeeded him. In his reign, the Moors of this
country were induced to revolt by a Numidian named _Tacfarinas_, who
had served in the Roman army, and who, at the head of a set of
barbarians accustomed to every species of robbery, assisted the revolt
he had excited.

After a variety of successes and defeats, they were completely routed
by _Dolabella_, the Roman General, and a body of Mauritanians sent to
his assistance by _Ptolemy_, This conquest contributed to establish
peace for a short time in these provinces; but at the death of
_Ptolemy_ (who was treacherously cut off by _Caius_), they again
revolted, when _Claudius_ first fixed a Roman army in _Mauritania_.
His generals, though not without difficulty, succeeded in restoring
tranquillity, which scarcely met with any interruption till the latter
end of the fifth century, when the declining state of the Roman power
favoured another revolt, in which the Moors entirely shook off the
yoke of the Romans, assisted by the Vandals, under _Genseric_, who
overran Africa, and obtained possession of most of the maritime
towns. The Vandals were expelled in the seventh century by the
Saracens, under the Caliphs of Bagdad, a ferocious and warlike race of
Arabs, who, from conquest to conquest, had extended and removed their
seat of government from Medina to the city of Damascus; thence to
_Cufa_, and from the latter place to _Bagdad_; where they established
their Caliphate authority.

Flushed with their success, and burning with the hopes of plunder, in
the conquest of countries more fertile and richer, but less warlike
than their own, they extended their arms as far as the western
_Mauritania_. This country then remained for some time subject to the
Caliphs of Bagdad, and was governed by their lieutenants, a set of
cruel, arbitrary, and rapacious men.

The distance from the seat of government, and the oppressive manner in
which the Caliphs ruled, excited universal commotion in this part, and
considerably diminished their authority. Their generals, far from
suppressing, openly encouraged these tumults, and severally aspired to
the sovereignty. In the midst of these intestine broils, _Edris_, a
descendant of Mahomet, fled into Mauritania, to avoid the persecutions
of the Caliph _Abdallah_, who, to ensure the succession to his own
family, had caused the kinsmen of _Edris_ to be put to death. _Edris_
first settled in a mountain, between Fez and Mequinez, called
_Zaaron_, where he soon gained the confidence of the Moors. He
preached the doctrine of Mahomet, and, by degrees, succeeded in
establishing it throughout the country.  These people, fond of
novelty, and extremely susceptible of fanaticism, readily embraced a
faith so well suited to their manners and inclinations. They elected
him their chief, and invested him with supreme power; which he
employed in reducing the Arab generals.  From that time, the
characters of the Moors and Arabs gradually blended, so that in
after-ages, among the generality of them, scarcely any distinction can
be traced.

As it is foreign to my present purpose to carry you farther into the
ancient history of this country, I shall proceed to give you tho
particulars of my journey to this town. I left Tangiers, escorted by a
guard, consisting of a serjeant and six horsemen, accompanied by an
interpreter, and my few servants. We rode for several hours,
alternately through gardens and woods: the former full of fruit-trees;
such as orange, lemon, fig, pomegranate, apple, pear, and cherry
trees.  The scene became every moment more interesting.  As we
advanced, the country assumed a variety almost indescribable. The
contrast was every where infinitely striking.  At one instant the eye
was presented with fine corn-fields, meadows, and high hills; nay,
mountains, cultivated to the very summits, are covered with immense
flocks of sheep, and herds of cattle; while the vallies conveyed to
the imagination an idea of the fertile plains of Arcadia; the simple
manners of the Moors, who tend these flocks and herds, still further
inducing one to believe them the happy, peaceful people, the poets
feign the Arcadian swains to have been. On the other hand are huge
mountains, bleak and barren, inaccessible to man, and scarcely
affording food to the straggling wild goats that venture to browse on
them.

There is a degree of simplicity in the behaviour of the peasants, so
widely different from these who inhabit the towns, that it is
impossible to suppose them the same race of men. From the great
affinity between the manners and customs of these country Moors, and
the _Scenite Arabs_, the inhabitants of _Arabia Deserta_, we may
naturally infer that they must have derived those habits from the
latter.

They reside in villages composed of tents to the number of forty or
fifty, which they remove at pleasure; when the pasture fails in one
valley, they strike their tents, and seek another, where they remain
till the same necessity impels them to quit that in its turn.  This
was precisely the custom of the _Arabes Scenitae_. The vast
plains of sand with which _Arabia Deserta_ abounds, were occasionally
interspersed with fertile spots, which appeared like little
islands. These we're rendered extremely delightful by fountains,
rivulets, palm-trees, and most excellent fruit.  The Arabs, with their
flocks, encamped on some of them, and when they had consumed every
thing there, they retired to others.  Their descendants, the present
_Bedoweens_, continue the practice to this day. The name given to this
kind of village is the same as that of the Arabs just mentioned, which
is _Dow-war, or Hbyma_.

The families of the Moorish peasants appear to be very numerous, as I
observed that each tent was quite full. They flocked out as I passed,
to gratify their curiosity in seeing a _Massarane_ (for so they
denominate a Christian). Yet, notwithstanding their antipathy to all
Christians, I was received with the greatest hospitality by these
followers of Mahomet. They seemed to vie with each other in presenting
the bowl of butter-milk, which they consider as a great delicacy, and.
indeed, an offering of peace.

In the centre of a plain, about eight hours journey from Tangiers, we
halted, and refreshed ourselves. After allowing my serjeant and guard
to perform their ablutions, and say their prayers, we proceeded on our
journey, and arrived, very late in the evening, at a village on the
banks of a large river, which, from its situation, I imagine to be the
_Zelis_, or _Zelia_, of the ancients, and which, by its annual
inundation, fertilizes and enriches the country to such a degree,
that, with very little labour, it produces abundant crops of all kinds
of grain, particularly of wheat and barley.

A number of rivulets have their source in those mountains, which,
joining others in their course, at length form pretty considerable
rivers; and these, meeting with obstacles from the projecting rocks
over which they pass, produce most beautiful natural cascades, which,
precipitating themselves into the plains, preserve so great a moisture
in the soil, that it is covered with a continual verdure.

There are no public inns for the accommodation of travellers on the
road; but the Emperor has caused stone buildings to be erected, at
certain distances, as substitutes. These buildings are not so good as
many of the stables in England; they resemble the sheds, made, by
farmers, to-give shelter to their cattle in tempestuous weather: yet,
miserable as they were, I was glad to accept the offer of a night's
lodging in one of them, not having provided myself with a tent.

The Cadi of the village conducted us to this delectable abode, which
we found already occupied by six Moorish wanderers, who, in the
Emperor's name, were ordered to turn out, and make room for me and my
suite. Supper was brought me by the Cadi; it consisted, of boiled rice
and milk, and some fresh-water fish, tolerably well dressed.  When I
had partaken of this homely repast, I prepared myself for rest, of
which I stood in great need from the fatigues of the day; but, alas!
my evil genius had determined otherwise; it seemed as if all the fleas
and bugs in His Imperial Majesty's dominions had been collected, to
prevent my closing my eyes; or it was, possibly, a legacy bequeathed,
me by my predecessors.  Be that as it may, I found them such very
troublesome companions, that I preferred the night air to the prospect
of being devoured before morning; I therefore wrapped myself up in a
thick blanket, and slept, unmolested, in the open air, till after
daybreak, when I found myself sufficiently refreshed to pursue my
journey.  Crossing the river, we passed through a ruinous walled town,
called _Arzilla_, commanded by an Alcaid, under the Governor of
Larache. This, which is a maritime town, lies at the mouth of the
above river, and was, according to Strabo, Pliny, and others, a
_Phoenician colony_; it was afterwards successively in the hands of
the Romans, Vandals, Arabs, and occupied by _Aphonso_, King of
Portugal, surnamed the _African_. It was abandoned by the Portuguese
in 1471, when it fell under the power of the kings of Morocco.

I observed several ruins in this town and its vicinity, but could not
stay to inspect them, It is inhabited by Moors and Jews, and is
surrounded by gardens abounding with lemon, orange, and grape
trees. On the evening of the same day we reached this place.  I shall
defer the account of my reception here, and the state in which I found
the Governor, till my next.




LETTER III.

Conducted to the Governor--Medical Hint from his Secretary--Governor
recovers--Larache--Its Harbour, Shipping, and Inhabitants.


Larache, February 1806.

On our arrival at this place, we were met, at the gates of the
garrison, by the Governor's public Secretary, who conducted us to a
house belonging to Mr. Matra, and afterwards accompanied me to the
castle to visit my patient.  On our way thither I requested the
Secretary to give me his opinion concerning the present state of the
Governor's health; I also asked how he had been accustomed to live,
and how long he had been confined to his bed. "What do you mean," said
he, "by asking such foolish questions? you are not a _tweeb_" (the
name for a physician). I told him that I was. He continued: "That must
be determined by your success or failure; if you succeed, you will for
ever establish your fame in Barbary; you will be esteemed and
respected by all the Moors; but, if you fail, and His Excellency
should die under your hands, I would then advise you to make your
escape as quickly and as privately as possible, and never to attempt
to revisit this country." I confessed the weight of the encouragement
and threats which he held out; and inquiring whether he meant to
insinuate, that if the Governor died I should suffer death? and
whether they always punished their tweebs thus when they dispatched
any of their patients to the other world? he rejoined, "Not exactly;
but consider, you are a Massarene, which makes a great difference."  I
then intimated that I would decline having any thing to do with his
master, and would return to Gibraltar. "You do not think of such a
thing!" he exclaimed; "it would be unworthy of your character and
situation.  But come; I will give you a few salutary hints, which may
be of service to you; the rest you will discover at the bed-side, and
on feeling the pulse of your patient, I wish you may succeed in
recovering him; but I am afraid he is going, and that no tweeb on
earth can save him."

He then informed me that His Excellency had been attended, for some
days past, by a celebrated tweeb, who stood high in the public
estimation; that he had pronounced the Governor's disease incurable,
and he had, bled him so copiously, and so repeatedly, that "I verily
believe," added the Secretary, "he has not a single drop of blood left
in his veins; I would therefore advise you to administer some good
cordials, and also some nourishment, to restore his lost vigour." By
this time we had reached the castle. I found the Governor in a
situation truly deplorable.  He had been bled, as the Secretary
described, _ad deliquium_, and reduced so low, that it was with great
difficulty I could hear what he was desirous of explaining to me.

His body was covered all over with purple spots, and had every
concomitant symptom of the blood approaching to a putrescent
dissolution, I afforded him all the assistance in my power the same
evening; and early the next morning, when I visited him, I found him
somewhat easier; the next day better; and thus progressively mending;
till yesterday he was sufficiently recovered to venture on horseback,
and I trust he will, ultimately, be perfectly restored to health and
spirits.  He is about forty years of age, of a genteel appearance,
exceedingly well informed, and reputed to be the most sensible officer
in His Imperial Majesty's service, perfectly, _au fait_ in the
intrigues and politics of the Cabinet of St. Cloud, and other nations,
He has always been, and is still, a very steady friend to the English,

During my stay here so many poor wretches applied for advice and
medical assistance, that I have completely exhausted my stock of
medicines, and I am, in consequence of this, obliged to decline the
Emperor's invitation to his court. I shall return to Gibraltar for a
supply, and shall then pay him a visit at Fez.

Larache is supposed to be the famous _Lixus_, or _Lixos_, of the
ancients, and, consequently, was in great reputation in the earliest
ages, Pliny asserts, that the giant _Antaeus_ occasionally
resided here; and further adds, that Hercules vanquished him in this
neighbourhood, as he supposes the gardens of the Hesperides to have
been not far off. This I think very probable, as the Arabic name of
this town is _El Arais_, signifying a place abounding in gardens;
which is still the case. The vicinity of it is, indeed, rendered
extremely delightful by the number of gardens.  Pliny also makes the
river Lixos (upon the banks of which the town stood), by its winding
course, to resemble a serpent, or dragon, from which he intimates that
this river gave rise to the fable of the Dragon guarding the golden
apples of the _Hesperides_.  Be that as it may, the situation of the
present Larache gives great probability to the supposition of its
being the reputed _Lixus_ of the ancients. The learned Aldrete affirms
the word _Lixos_ be derived from _Lachisu_, or 
_Nahara Lachisu_, signifying _enchantment_, or the _enchanted
river_. He observes, that the town of Lixos was situated near the
banks of a river of the same name; and that the inhabitants of this
country were supposed to possess uncommon skill in sorcery and magic.

Many wonderful things have been related of _Antaeus_, by various
authors, in his two residences of _Tingis_ and _Lixos_. Pliny mentions
a Roman colony having been settled here by _Claudius_; and I should
judge this statement to be perfectly correct, from the number of Roman
ruins observable in and near the town. It was in the possession of the
Spaniards in 1610, but was retaken by the Moors before the
commencement of the eighteenth century.

It is surrounded by good bastions and other works; some of which were
constructed by the Spaniards, and the rest by the Moors. It is
encompassed by deep trenches, with sluices to fill them with water
from the river, The streets of this town are narrow and dirty, paved
with large irregular stones, and consisting of abrupt ascents and
descents, which render them unsafe to pass through on horseback.

Near the castle, at the extremity of the cape, facing the Atlantic, is
an oblong square, surrounded by a piazza, supported by colonnades,
where the shops of the merchants are situated, and where the market
also is held.  The cattle-market is kept in an extensive plain, to
which you pass through a crooked way, out of the western
gate. Thursday is the market-day.

Fresh water is extremely scarce, and the inhabitants are sometimes
greatly distressed for want of it. Larache is a seat of government,
and contains a spacious inland harbour; but the entrance is dangerous
from the badness of its bar, which might, however, be removed with
little trouble and expense, so as to render the harbour very
commodious for shipping,

The harbour contains a portion of the Emperor's maritime force, which
consists of four frigates, a brig, and a sloop of war, in very
tolerable condition. This little fleet is commanded by an admiral, and
sails every year in the month of May; when it cruizes about during the
summer, picking up a few straggling vessels, and returns here to
winter; in which time the sailors are twice a week exercised at the
great guns. This town is now entirely occupied by soldiers and
sailors, and their respective families. It did contain about two
thousand Jews, whose business it was to purchase hides, wool, and wax,
for several commercial houses established at Tetuan; but these poor
people were obliged to leave this garrison, and take refuge in the
neighbouring mountains, from a sudden and irrevocable decree of the
Emperor, on account of their having sold some _aguardiente_ to the
sailors, which occasioned a great fight, that was attended with the
loss of three Moors.

I have just received intelligence of the death of Mr. Matra; I am
extremely sorry for this event, as, in him, we have lost a very
powerful advocate at the court of Morocco: but it is no more than I
expected, from the state in which I left him at Tangiers.




LETTER IV.

Excursion to Mamora, and thence to Salee--Friendly Reception by the
Governor of the latter--Rabat--Tower of Hassen--Shella--
Mansooria--Alcasser-- Quiber--Its Socco, or Marketplace.


Larache, 1805.

To escape from the importunities of those poor creatures who continued
to pester me for medicines with which I could not supply them, I
availed myself of the convalescent state of the Governor, and obtained
his permission to make a short excursion to the nearest seaport towns
on the western coast.  Escorted as before, I directed my way towards
Mamora, a fortress about sixty miles off.

I halted frequently to observe the face of, the country, and could not
forbear lamenting the little knowledge I possess in the art of
drawing; indeed, I never had more reason to regret having neglected it
than now, as it would have enabled me to present you with some very
interesting views, to which my pen cannot do justice.

The beautiful intermixture of lakes, forests, and green vallies,
forming most delightful landscapes, brought to my recollection those
scenes I have so often contemplated, in my youthful days, on the
borders of Switzerland.  The lakes abound with all kinds of
water-fowls, and fine eels; and are surrounded by villages,
sanctuaries, and holy houses; the latter occupied by the descendants
of the ancient _Maraboots_, who are held in the highest veneration by
the Moors, and whose habitations are considered as sacred asylums,
which are never violated, either by the civil or military power.

We ascended an eminence, upon which stands one of their most
celebrated sanctuaries, built in the form of a pavilion, with four
arched folding-doors, in the Gothic style, covered with varnished
tiles of various colours, and embellished with curious Arabic
characters. I was eagerly approaching, at the head of my little party,
to gratify my curiosity, when a shower of stones, from the holy
inhabitants of the neighbouring huts and tents, compelled me to
desist; and after a retreat of one hundred yards, I sat down to
refresh myself undisturbed.

From this hill, however, I had a better opportunity of surveying the
beauties of the adjacent lands, which are very productive; and also to
observe the windings of the river _Seboo_, which, taking its source in
the neighbourhood of Fez, forms a junction with the river _Beth_, and
falls into the Atlantic Ocean.

After journeying about a league, we crossed this river in a
ferry-boat, and in a short time reached the fort of _Mamora_, which
lies about two miles to the south of the river. This fort, after
having been demolished by the Moors, was rebuilt by the Spaniards in
1604, and taken by Muley Ishmael in 1681. It is commanded by an
Alcaid, and inhabited by about forty or fifty families, who gain a
livelihood by fishing for shads and eels; with which they supply the
adjoining country during the winter season.

We rested at this place, and feasted upon fried eels, which I found
equal to those caught in the Thames. From _Mamora_ we proceeded to
_Salee_ another maritime town, situated in the province of
_Ben-hassen_, and at the mouth of the river _Salee_, which is formed
by the junction of two small rivers.  The Governor of that place being
an intimate friend of my patient, I was most kindly and hospitably
received by him; and elegantly entertained in one of his gardens,
which are well laid out, and ornamented with several fountains playing
into marble basins, as well as by several delightful streams of water.

Salee is a walled town, strongly defended by a large battery, mounting
twenty-four pieces of heavy ordnance, and a redoubt which protects the
mouth of the river. It contains about five hundred regular troops,
three thousand militia-men, five hundred sailors, and a number of
Moorish merchants and Jews. To the north of this garrison is a small
town, in a ruinous state, inhabited by a few negro families. I was
told it was built by Muley Ishmael for the accommodation of his
favourite black troops. To the south, and on the opposite side of the
river _Salee_, is the maritime city of _Rabat_, commanded by a black
chief, and garrisoned with black soldiers.

It is defended by a fort and strong batteries, adequate to prevent a
hostile landing.  It contains several ruins of importance; among the
most conspicuous of which are those of a large mosque, and the famous
castle built by _Almansor_ the _Invincible_, together with a superb
square tower; which latter is still in a tolerable state of
preservation, and is called the tower of _Hassen_. This tower is about
two hundred feet in height, strongly built with cut stone, and most
curiously decorated with Arabic characters. It contains a staircase of
easy ascent to the top, whence I had a most extensive prospect of the
Atlantic Ocean, where vessels are descried sailing at an immense
distance.

The walls of Rabat are nearly two miles in circumference, and
fortified by several square towers. Exclusive of its regular garrison,
it contains four thousand militia-men, and about fifteen hundred
sailors, besides several Moorish merchants and Jews; which latter live
in a separate quarter.

This town, as well as Salee, is admirably calculated for trade,
capable of furnishing foreign markets with large quantities of wool,
leather, wax, and other important commodities.  These contiguous
cities are surrounded by gardens, watered by plentiful streams, which
are artificially conveyed from a neighbouring spring, that takes its
rise in a valley called _Tamura_, to the south of Rabat, and which
also supplies all the houses of the two towns with fresh water.

Both places contain docks for building vessels, and several small
corvettes in the Emperor's service winter in these harbours: but the
roads, like those of Larache, are only to be frequented from the
beginning of April to the end of September, on account of the shifting
of the sand, which accumulates on the wind blowing from the
south-west, when the bar is rendered unsafe for vessels to pass.  Too
great attention cannot be paid by commanders or masters of ships, on
anchoring there, as a great number of anchors have been lately lost,
and many vessels stranded.

Curiosity prompted me to inspect a small ruinous town to the east of
_Rabat_, named _Shella_, supposed to have been built by the
_Carthaginians_: but my approach was rudely prevented by the
inhabitants; no Christian, nor even Jew, being suffered to enter, on
account of its containing several tombs of their most celebrated
saints, while in fact it is only a sacred asylum for malefactors, and
all the rogues of the country.


To the south, and about eight leagues from _Rabat_, in a sandy and
almost desert place, is a castle, in a most dilapidated state, called
_Mensooria_, which was erected by _Jacob Al__mansor_, for the
accommodation of travellers, and is still resorted to by the trading
Moors and Jews, as a refuge at night from the attacks of robbers.

Conceiving it rather hazardous to penetrate further in useless
researches, I returned to this place, greatly chagrined at having been
foiled in my attempts to explore the remains of antiquities in
_Shella_, and other places. I assure you, my disappointment was not
owing to the want either of perseverance or resolution, but the
serjeant of my guard was an ignorant bigot, and a great coward,
therefore unwilling and unable to protect, or share any danger with
me. On my return here, I dismissed him, and obtained another serjeant,
and a new guard, from the Governor, who caused my dismissed serjeant
to be seized; and ordered him the _pallo_; but, at my intercession, he
was pardoned, upon his promising for the future to evince a more
soldierlike conduct, when summoned on duty.

The town of _Alcasser-Quiber_ being only three leagues from this
place, I also went thither, to see the _Socco_, which is held once a
week, and is frequented by a vast number of the inhabitants of the
neighbouring mountains, who carry their produce, consisting of cattle,
fowls, eggs, butter, soft cheese, and large quantities of wool, hides,
and wax.

This city lies to the eastward of Larache, on the banks of the river
_Luxos_, and is separated from the town of _Arzilla_ by alternate
vallies and plains, amongst which some remains of redoubts,
apparently, for the protection and defence of camps, are to be seen,
and near which that unfortunate battle was fought in 1578, wherein
_Don Sebastian_, King of Portugal, lost both his army and his life.

_Alcasser-Quiber_ is a place of some note, carrying on an extensive
and profitable commerce with Tetuan and other places. The town and its
environs suffer greatly by the occasional overflowing of the river
Luxos, which might however easily be remedied; but the Moors have no
notion of altering things; therefore, without endeavouring to secure
themselves from a recurrence of such disasters, they allow their
houses to be filled with water, and themselves to be, not
unfrequently, washed out of them.

This town contains upwards of fifteen hundred families, exclusive of
six hundred Jews, whose quarter is distinct from the Moors. It is
commanded by an Alcaid, subject to the authority of the Governor of
Larache, and ranks among the principal cities of the empire of
Morocco.

LETTER V.


_Leave Larache with an Escort--Curious Custom on returning from
Mecca--Arrive at Tetuan_.

Tetuan.

His Excellency the Governor of Larache being perfectly recovered, I
took my departure from that city. For the sake of novelty, I proposed
returning to Gibraltar, by this route, rather than by Tangiers. I
obtained a letter of recommendation to _Sidy Ash-Ash_, and was
accompanied by a strong guard, provided with a tent, and all other
necessaries for the journey.

On my way hither, I was highly entertained by the Serjeant of the
guard. This man had not long returned from Mecca and Upper Egypt. He
spoke Italian tolerably well, was full of strange notions, and
considered himself quite a superior genius. He told me, that he
expected to be promoted in a very short time, and asked me, whether I
were present at his public entry into the garrison of Larache, on his
return from the sanctuary of Mecca. I smiled, and answered him in the
affirmative. He asked me, why I smiled?  "At the novelty of the
exhibition," I replied, "in carrying you to all the mosques, and
afterwards in escorting you in state to your humble habitation."--"It
is but too often the practice," rejoined he, "of petulant infidels to
ridicule us, in the exercise of pious customs and religious duties."
Then spurring his horse, he muttered something abusive, which I
pretended not to hear. However, I found no great difficulty in
appeasing the pious and sanctified serjeant. In short, I dispelled all
his glooms and ill humours, and drowned his scruples, in a cup of port
wine. It is customary among the Moors, when any of them return from
the pilgrimage of Mecca, to go out in great procession to meet the
devout pilgrim, whom some of them carry on their shoulders with great
solemnity through the town and to his own house, where he sits in
state for three days, receiving visits and donations from all classes
of people, who flock with the greatest eagerness to obtain a sight of
him. The conversation was insensibly renewed, and he told me, that of
a company of fifteen pilgrims, who set out for the holy city of Mecca,
he was the sole survivor, the others having all perished in the
deserts. He was the only favoured and true believer that was permitted
to visit the holy sepulchre. He added: "As the dangers attending the
pilgrimage are great and various, does not the happy being, who
returns safe to his native place, deserve the honours and compliments
paid him, for his great perseverance and patience in such a dangerous
undertaking, the success of which is the result of his innate
rectitude?" I gave him to understand that he had made the case
clear. "The French," he continued, "had a design upon the treasures of
Mecca." I agreed that they certainly had; and asked him, by what power
he thought the French army was prevented from possessing itself of
Mecca. "Unquestionably," rejoined he, "by the invincible and invisible
power of our Prophet." In reply to my intimation that it was the
British arms which defeated the French before Acre and Alexandria, and
compelled them to give up the conquest they had made in Egypt, he went
on to say, that "all the great acts of mankind are guided and governed
by a supernatural power. The French were defeated by the English,
because the latter fought under the invincible standard of _Mahomet_;
and so fully convinced are the true believers of this, that we now
consider the English as brethren.  I hate the French mortally; they
are a set of bloody impious infidels, and treacherous to a degree; I
would not escort a dog of a Frenchman for all the treasures of the
Emperor; I would rather lose my head than protect one.  I fought the
dogs in Egypt; but I took care not to spare one; I laid many of them
in the dust. It behoves every honest Moor to be on his guard against
the intrigues and duplicity of the French. A Moor can certainly face
six of them. The Emperor's troops have more bodily strength than
theirs. By the by, it is whispered about, that they intend paying us a
visit to plunder us, and ravish our fine women. Let them come, we will
meet them, I warrant you, and give them their due. Not one will return
to France to tell his story." I then filled him another cup of port,
to drink destruction to the French, whenever they should attempt
either his shores or ours--and here ended our dialogue. I found him a
_bon-vivant_, willing to overlook certain restrictions of his Prophet,
and to drink his wine like an honest Englishman.

The second day of our journey I had raised his spirits to such a
height, that he wantonly picked a quarrel with the muleteer, and gave
him two or three slight cuts with his sabre, which so much provoked
the honest driver, that, being a stout robust man, he soon dismounted
my hero, and would actually have sent him to the shades below, but for
my interference.  When the Serjeant recovered his senses, he was very
much alarmed lest his conduct should be exposed, or reach the ears of
the Governor of Larache. In order therefore to dissipate the fears of
this gallant soldier, I made the muleteer and the other swear, by
their Prophet, to keep the transaction a secret. After this we
travelled on merrily, without further disputes, and arrived here on
the third day. I waited immediately upon, and delivered my letter to
the Governor, who commanded one of his officers to conduct me to the
house of the Vice-consul, where I now remain, in expectation of some
vessel to convey me to Gibraltar.

LETTER VI.


_Ill Usage of a Lieutenant of the Swiftsure--Disaffection of the
Moorish Governor towards Great Britain_.

Gibraltar, March 1806

His Majesty's ship the Swiftsure having arrived at Tetuan, to take in
fresh water, I went on board. The watering-place is about eighteen
miles from Tetuan, and six from the customhouse, at which last place
is a tower, guarded by a strong detachment, and commanded by a
Captain. When the ship had completed her water, signals were made to
strike the tent, and every one to repair on board.

It has always been customary for English men of war going to water
there, to make the commanding officer a present of a cartridge of
powder, which compliment was duly paid by the second Lieutenant of the
Swiftsure; but the Moorish Captain, not contented with one cartridge,
insisted upon having two. The Lieutenant refused to comply with this
new and extraordinary demand; upon which he was immediately seized by
a party of soldiers, who, after knocking him down, pinioned him, and
in this degrading manner marched him up to Tetuan, under a strong
escort.

Captain Rutherford (who commands the Swiftsure), on hearing of this
daring outrage, could with difficulty refrain from making instant
reprisals: but unwilling to embroil the two nations, he sailed without
delay, and arrived in the course of a few hours in this bay.  Two days
after Mr. Wickes, the Lieutenant, joined the Swiftsure. He reports,
that, after a most painful march, he was taken before Governor
Ash-Ash, who released him, immediately, and promised to punish the
Captain of the fort for the insult; a promise which, I am pretty
confident, he never performed.

Such an act will naturally inspire you with horror, and induce you to
consider the Moors as a ferocious, barbarous set of people: but,
believe me, it could only have been perpetrated under the government
of _Ash-Ash_. At any other port of Barbary, a British officer will
meet with a most kind and hospitable reception, and every mark of
respect due to him.  The Emperor has given Ash-Ash positive orders to
respect the English, and not to take the part of the French, directly
or indirectly; but, as I observed in a former letter, I conceive this
Moor to be completely under French influence.

I am extremely busy in making the necessary preparations for my next
trip; and as you are kind enough to say you are gratified with the
account I have already sent you of the empire of Morocco, and wish me
to continue my remarks, I shall most probably trouble you with a
letter, whenever I meet with any thing that may serve to interest or
amuse you.

LETTER VII.

_Sail for Tetuan--Appearance of the Coast--Enter the Boosega
River--Curious Towers of Defence--Custom-house-Female Dress--Enter
Tetuan over a Road of unlevelled Rock--Disagreeable Streets--Well
received by the Governor--Public Markets--Socco--An Auction Market._


Tetuan; March 14th, 1806

One of His Majesty's brigs having been appointed to convey me either
to Tangiers or Tetuan, the wind blowing due west, we sailed for this
port. As the ship drew near the shore, I had a full view of this wild
coast.  The tops of the lofty mountains are prodigious barren rocks,
while their base is interspersed with broom and box. The hills and
dales are covered with myrtles of various kinds, assuming different
shades of lovely green. The towers and castles, which are of a
delicate whiteness, rising in the midst of these groves of myrtles,
render the scene interesting.  The plaster made use of in the erection
of these towers is, of itself, extremely white; but the Moors are not
satisfied with this, and they add a whitewash of lime.

The towers are harmless as fortifications, since, for want of skill in
the manufacture of gunpowder, the Moors are very deficient in that
necessary article. No present therefore is more acceptable to them
than a few cartridges of it.

After firing two or three guns by way of signal to the Vice-consul,
announcing my arrival, as the Captain had directions only to put me on
shore, and to proceed to sea immediately to join Lord Collingwood's
fleet, my baggage was put into a large Moorish boat, and I entered the
river _Boosega_ (commonly called St. Martin) in the Captain's barge.
This river is defended by a castle of singular construction, the
entrance to which is by means of a ladder to a door in the upper
story, and which ladder is occasionally drawn up. The four angles of
the building are finished with small turrets, capped with clumsy
domes, and having several ports for cannon. Near this place many of
the Emperor's gallies anchor, and winter.

Having proceeded a considerable way up the river, we landed at another
castle, called the Custom-house. On my landing, I was received by the
Vice-consul (an opulent Jew, and a native of Barbary), accompanied by
the commanding officer and his troop. They conducted me to the
Custom-house, which is built of stone, and whitewashed, arid, at a
distance, appears to very great advantage. We entered this public
building by an arched gateway, and proceeded through a winding passage
into a quadrangle, in the centre of which is a well of excellent
water. Near the well was an arcade, shaded by a grape-vine, to which I
was conducted, and there placed in an old arm-chair. The Vice-consul
and the Moorish commandant seated themselves cross-legged, upon mats
spread upon the floor, and dinner, consisting of roasted fowls and
fried sardinias, was immediately served.

After dinner my baggage was put upon mules, and a saddle-horse was
brought for me. This animal was perfectly white, and loaded with an
enormous saddle, which had a large peak before and behind, covered
with a scarlet cloth, and furnished with a pair of stirrups of a
curious form, much resembling a coal-scuttle; but, _outre_ as
this appeared, I assure you, I found myself very comfortably seated,
and perfectly secure from falling.  Thus equipped, we set forward for
Tetuan, accompanied by a Moorish officer and twelve horsemen.

Whips are not in fashion in this country, and their place is supplied
by two long ends of the bridle, cut to a point; but the horses, though
very spirited, are perfectly under command, and need neither whip nor
spur.

The town of Tetuan is seen at a great distance, from being built, like
Tangiers, on the declivity of a high hill, and the houses being
whitewashed. The road from the Custom-house is abominably bad; it lies
across a wearisome, barren plain, surrounded by craggy mountains. Here
and there, indeed, may be seen a small fertile spot, covered with
cattle, sheep, and goats, and occasionally a well, encompassed by a
wall of broad flat stones, capable of affording a seat to a dozen
people.  On approaching the city, however, the country appears more
cultivated, luxuriant, and rich.

The figures of some common women, apparently employed in agricultural
occupations, struck me with surprise, as their dress was quite
different from any I had seen when in this country before. On their
head they wore a straw hat, of an enormous circumference; under this
was a piece of white cloth extending over the forehead to the eyes;
and immediately below this another, which reached as far down as the
chin; their eyes peeping through the intermediate space. Their bodies
were enveloped in a coarse haik, a species of serge of their own
manufacture.

Upon entering the city gate, one of my guards took hold of my bridle,
and conducted me over innumerable rocks, to the Jewish town. The
surface of the ground being an uneven rock, which every where remains
unlevelled, the streets consist of abrupt ascents and descents, even
worse than those of Larache; they are also extremely narrow and dirty;
and as the houses have no windows towards the streets, you in fact
pass along between two dead walls, almost suffocated by a hot and
fetid atmosphere.

When we reached the house of the Vice-consul, I was presented with a
glass of _aguardiente_, for refreshment. After having passed the
evening in the company of a numerous party of Barbary Jews, I retired
to bed; and in the morning I waited on the Governor, to pay my
respects to him. On our way thither, I was not a little surprised to
see our Vice-consul pull off his slippers as we passed the mosques,
and walk bare-footed. I soon learned, that the Jews are compelled to
pay this tribute of respect, from which Christians are exempt,
although they do not escape very frequent insults when walking through
the city.

We found His Excellency sitting cross-legged on a tiger-skin, smoking
his pipe, under a niche in one of the courts of his mansion.  He
received me with great politeness, and assured me that every thing
should be arranged to render my journey to Larache safe and
agreeable. Both, the Governor and his secretary asked me numberless
questions respecting the laws and manners of the English; to all of
which I gave short and general answers.

As we returned from the castle we passed through a street of unusual
breadth, on each side of which were the shops of the merchants.  I
thence proceeded to take a general survey of the city; examining the
different places allotted to people engaged in various branches of
trade, and the manufactories of silk, carpets, and mats; and
afterwards went to the public markets for meat, poultry, vegetables,
cattle, sheep, horses, and mules. They are in spacious squares, and
are exceedingly well stocked. I next went to see the _Socco_, which is
a place appointed for the sale of several articles of wearing apparel
as well as all sorts of goods, by public auction. The auctioneer walks
backwards and forwards, exhibiting the commodities for sale, and
bawling out the different prices offered. We returned, through several
intricate streets, to the Jews' quarters, much fatigued, and worried
with the impertinence and curiosity of the inhabitants.

LETTER VIII.

_Tetuan--The Jews much oppressed there--particularly the
Females--Costume--Singularity of the Streets in the Jewish
Town--Ceuta--Would be invaluable to England--Melilla--Summoned to
visit the Emperor._

Tetuan, ---- 1806.

There is little that is remarkable in this town, beside what I
mentioned in my last.  It is distant twenty miles from _Ceuta_, a
Spanish fortress, and twelve from the Mediterranean, and is nearly
opposite to the rock of Gibraltar. It has a good trade, and contains
about eighty thousand inhabitants, twenty thousand of which are Jews,
said to be very rich. The Jews are tolerably civilized in their
manners, but are dreadfully oppressed by the Moors. Seldom a day
passes but some gross outrage or violence is offered to the Jewish
women, the generality of whom are very handsome, though their dress is
by no means calculated to set off, but rather to detract from, their
beauty.

Men, women, and children, still preserve the same costume as in the
time of Moses. You cannot conceive any thing more ridiculous than the
_tout ensemble_ of a Barbary Jewess in full dress. Every part of her
apparel is rich, but is so heavy, that, to an European, nothing can
appear more awkward and unbecoming.  The Jewish ladies wear immense
ear-rings.  I have observed several full twelve inches in
circumference, and of a proportionate thickness; and a few ornaments
being affixed to the ear-ring, I leave you to judge what materials
their ears must be made of, to bear such a weighty appendage.

The Jewish town is quite distinct from that of the Moors; but the
difference between them is very little: the streets are equally narrow
and dirty, and the houses have no windows on the outside; the roofs
are also quite flat; the only variation is, that the streets are
covered with a roof extending from the houses on each side, and have
the appearance of subterraneous passages. There is a regular
communication between the houses at the top, which is the favourite
scene of recreation. Some of the women scarcely ever take the air,
excepting on these flat roofs: in short, the inhabitants, both Jews
and Moors, dance, sing, and take all their amusements on them. The
rooms of the Jewish houses (as well as of the Moors) are long, narrow,
and lofty, resembling galleries. Most of the houses are occupied by
several families, which are generally large. Those inhabited by the
more opulent are kept tolerably neat, and are adorned with rich and
curious furniture; but they are, for the most part, exceedingly dirty;
and the exhalations from the garlic and oil, which they use in great
quantities in frying their fish, are enough to suffocate a person not
entirely divested of the sense of smelling.  Their taste is so
exquisitely refined, in regard to the oil they use, that they prefer
our lamp-oil to any other, on account of its high flavour.

Notwithstanding all these apparent obstacles to health, they contrive
to preserve it admirably well. To an Englishman, their mode of life
would scarcely appear worthy to be called living, but merely
vegetating. Since the last plague, however, in Barbary, which
destroyed a vast number of the Jews, they have not suffered from any
infectious or contagious disorder, and their population has augmented
so prodigiously, that the Emperor must, however reluctantly, extend
the limits of their town. The Jews marry extremely young.  It is not
at all unusual to see a married couple, whose united ages do not
exceed twenty-two or twenty-three years.

I cannot quit Tetuan, without giving you some account of _Ceuta_,
which is at so small a distance from it. From its situation, it
perfectly corresponds with the _Exillissa_ of _Ptolemy_, being the
first maritime town to the eastward of the ancient _Tingis_, or modern
Tangiers. It also clearly appears to have been the _Septa_ described
by _Procopius_, who, with many others, derives this name from the
adjacent seven hills. It was a place of great note in the time of the
Vandals. It is now a strong regular fortified town. Ceuta is thirty
miles from Tangiers, and nearly opposite to the entrance of the bay of
Gibraltar.  It is nominally still in the hands of the Spaniards; but
it is confidently rumoured, and believed, to have been ceded by treaty
to the French. This important fortress has been, and is still,
occasionally most awfully distressed for want of provisions; insomuch,
that if closely besieged by land, by the Moors, and blocked up by the
English by sea, it could not hold out any considerable time in
possession of the French. The advantages resulting to Great Britain
from such a valuable acquisition are incalculable.

Every person who is acquainted with the situation of Ceuta, the rival
of Gibraltar, must be very much astonished, that it should still be
permitted to remain in the possession of the Spaniards, since a
squadron of men of war, and a flotilla of gun and bomb vessels, might
reduce it, even without the assistance, of the Moors; and thereby
England would be sole mistress of the entrance to the
Mediterranean. Convoys could collect in safety at Ceuta, and our trade
in this sea be comparatively secure from annoyance. I understand this
place was closely invested by Muley Yezid (the late Emperor of
Morocco, and brother to the present Emperor), but for want of proper
co-operation by sea, where it is most vulnerable, he was necessitated
to raise the siege, and withdraw his troops.

This garrison is supplied with provisions from Spain, the Moors being
prohibited, on pain of death, from sending their commodities thither;
and in order that this interdiction may be strictly observed, picquets
and posts of Moorish cavalry and infantry are so judiciously
stationed, that it is impossible for the mountaineers to smuggle in
the smallest article.  The supplies from Spain are extremely
precarious, from the necessity of conveying them in small fishing
craft, to prevent their falling into the hands of the English.

_Melilla_ also is in the possession of the Spaniards: this maritime
town lies to the eastward of Tetuan. Many authors assert it to have
been founded by the _Carthaginians_. It is likewise called _Melela_,
from the great quantity of honey annually obtained in its
neighbourhood. It was taken by the Spaniards about the beginning of
the fifteenth century, and has remained under their dominion ever
since. It has a strong castle, built on a rock, named _Gomera_. Along
this coast, particularly from Tetuan to Melilla, there are several
coves, in which the Spanish gunboats, and other small armed vessels,
find shelter in cases of necessity. Indeed _Melilla_ is itself a place
of refuge for those vessels of the enemy fitted out for the annoyance
of our Mediterranean trade.

I shall conclude this with a copy of a letter, which I have just
received from Mr. Ross, the acting Consul-general in the room of the
late Mr. Matra:


"DEAR SIR,                 _Tangiers_,

"I heard only to-day of your arrival at Tetuan, on your way to
Larache; and this evening I received a letter from Sidy Mahommed
Eslawee, Governor of that place, to request, that, if I knew you were
in this country, I would beg you to use, every possible endeavour to
come to him at Larache, and to accompany him to the Emperor, who
wishes very much to see you. Let me therefore request your repairing
as quickly as possible to Larache, and joining him before he departs;
but should you miss him, he has left orders with his
Lieutenant-governor there, to forward you on immediately. I should
hope this jaunt will prove highly beneficial to you. Nothing on my
part shall be wanting, either in advice, or information, by which you
may think I can be of service. If you should see Governor Eslawee
before my letter reaches him, give him my kindest and best wishes; and
say that I hope, as he has been for a great many years past a sincere
friend to the British nation, his friendship will continue true and
steadfast.

    "I remain, dear Sir,

      "Your most obedient humble servant,

             (Signed) "JOHN ROSS,

                 "To Dr. Buffa,
                  &c. &c. &c.
                   Tetuan."


In consequence of this request, I am making preparations for my
departure by to-morrow morning. I shall write to you again from
Larache. Though I have described every thing worthy of notice in that
town in a former letter, yet I know you will wish to learn how I am
received by the Governor on this my second trip.




LETTER IX.

_Journey to Larache--Annual Socco of St. Martin--No Christian
permitted to witness it--Express Order for that Purpose in the
Author's Favour--Specimen of native medical Skill--Reception at
Larache--Complain of the Impositions of Governor Ash-Ash--Comparative
Tariff--Effect the Renewal of the old Tariff with increasing
Advantages._


Larache.

Before I introduce you a second time to the Governor, or relate my
reception from him, I must beg leave to give you a description of my
journey hither. Methinks I hear you say, "That is unnecessary, as, no
doubt, it was much the same as before." No such thing, I assure you;
for, in the first place, my style of travelling was infinitely
superior, being provided, by the Moorish Governor, with a double
guard, and having also eleven mules allowed me to carry my baggage,
which, with two muleteers, my interpreter, and servant, made no
despicable appearance. I had, besides, to contend with very stormy
weather, which gave the country quite a different aspect.  From
incessant rains, the rivers had overflowed, and nearly the whole of
the country was under water, which rendered our journey not only
difficult but dangerous. We were obliged to halt for two days, near a
village, till the waters subsided; and during this time we feasted on
fine fresh-water fish, and wild fowl. On the third day we proceeded;
and here I must not omit an occurrence which served still further to
give me an insight into the general character of this once powerful
people.

Fortunately (or unfortunately, some would say, who weighed the perils
I had to encounter in the accomplishment of my wishes) I passed, on
the day the inhabitants were meeting, the annual Socco of St. Martin,
so called from its being held at the place whence the river of that
name takes its source. I did not pass immediately over the spot, but
so near, that I could perceive a multitude of people assembled
together.  To obtain a better view of what they were about,
notwithstanding the representations of my conductors, that no
Christian was suffered to be present at this fair, I proceeded towards
the crowd; but before I could reach the place, I was assailed by
hundreds of people, who saluted me with such a discharge of stones,
and even some fire-arms, that I was extremely glad to make good my
retreat, which, with the aid of my guard, I effected, without
sustaining any injury.

Enraged at being thus foiled in my attempt, I hit upon a plan the most
likely to succeed in gratifying my curiosity; which was, to send the
Serjeant to the Cadi, to insist upon going up to the fair, and
threatening to complain to the Emperor if he refused me. This had the
desired effect. A deputation was ordered by the Cadi, with assurances
that I was welcome among them. Accordingly, I repaired once more, to
the scene of action.

The great show of cattle, sheep, &c. exposed for public sale, by men
and women half naked, first attracted my attention; which was however
soon diverted from them to a Moorish juggler, and a rope-dancer, the
latter performing several feats of great muscular strength. The people
had formed a complete circle, sitting cross-legged round the
rope-dancer. He was making a good collection, when the arrival of a
celebrated _tweeb_ (the native term for a physician) spoiled his
sport. At the sound of an instrument somewhat resembling a horn, they
all started up, and flocked to the standard of this professor of the
healing art, leaving the poor rope-dancer to finish his performance,
or not, as he pleased. I found this new constellation to be a doctor
of high renown, and a reputed saint, who lived in a neighbouring
village, and who, as was his custom, had condescended to honour this
annual meeting with his presence; selling and dispensing his
medicines, arid at the same time performing surgical and dental
operations.

In order to have a full view of this Moorish Esculapius, I approached
as closely as the multitude collected round him would allow. He was
attended by a negro slave, and two disciples.  Ere long, four Moors
brought a poor emaciated wretch, to obtain advice and relief from this
redoubtable doctor. The unfortunate man was unable, from his reduced
state, to stand. Having examined the eyes, tongue, and face of his
patient, he made a solemn pause, and appeared to deliberate very
profoundly, at length, he decided upon blood-letting _ad deliquium_,
and immediately took from his patient eighteen ounces of blood; nor
would he, in all probability, have stopped there, had the strength of
the poor man allowed him to continue; but having brought on a
_syncope_, he was obliged to desist. The arm was tied up with a
handkerchief; the doctor received his fee from one of his patient's
relatives; and the patient was left entirely to the efforts of nature
in his favour. For humanity's sake, I afforded him every assistance in
my power, and, after much difficulty, succeeded in restoring him to
his senses; but he was so weakened by the absurd treatment he had
experienced, as to have no chance of surviving the day. As the
multitude firmly believed him to be quite dead, this apparent
resuscitation astonished the people beyond measure; and from this
circumstance supplies of every kind of provision were poured in on me,
from all quarters.

Soon after the above scene, a young woman presented herself, afflicted
with a violent tooth-ache. The doctor, after his usual deliberation,
resolved to extract the dolent tooth; and taking a string from his
box, he fastened it round the tooth, and by a sudden jerk (which, from
its force, I expected would have brought away jaw and all), he drew it
out.  The poor girl bore the operation with exemplary patience and
fortitude; and having satisfied the sapient doctor, she retired.

Whilst I was thus occupied in observing the wonderful proceedings of
this singular practitioner, an uproar in another part of the fair
attracted my notice. Curiosity prompted me to inquire into its cause,
and I found it was occasioned by a wild mountaineer, who had been
detected in the act of stealing a Moorish garment.  He was seized, and
taken before the Cadi, who ordered him the bastinado immediately;
which was inflicted with such severity, that I could not forbear
interceding for the fellow. The Cadi kindly remitted part of the
punishment, and the culprit was set at liberty.

Finding nothing else likely to compensate my longer stay, I summoned
my suite, and proceeded on my journey, reflecting on the mutability of
all earthly prosperity, which was so strongly exemplified in the
history of the Moorish nation. The scene I had just left, argued such
a small remove from absolute barbarism, that, more than once, I could
not avoid exclaiming: "Are these the descendants of those people, who,
for so many centuries, gave laws to the greater part of Spain, and
subjected whole provinces to their dominion?  But those times are
past, and, 'like the baseless fabric of a vision,' left 'not a wreck
behind'."

After a journey of six days (which might have been performed in three,
but for the delays I have spoken of), we arrived here. His Excellency
the Governor, and his suite, came out to meet me. He embraced me very
cordially, and conducted me to the castle, where I was served with a
sumptuous collation. The Governor being in hourly expectation of the
orders of his Sovereign to repair to court, has his route made out,
and has requested me to keep myself in readiness to depart at an
hour's notice.


I have received several letters by express, from, our Consul-general,
complaining of Governor _Ash-Ash_, who has refused granting the
regular supplies to our fleet, and the garrison of Gibraltar. From the
character I have given you of this man, in a former letter, you will
feel less astonished, when I inform you of his shameful conduct.  His
rapacity and avarice are unbounded.  He refuses the regular supplies,
insisting upon an additional duty being paid, besides the enormous one
already imposed, on articles furnished to the English, contrary to the
tariff established by treaty. Accordingly, I laid the following copy
of the original tariff before His Excellency, and subjoined the
imposition of Ash-Ash.  _Order to be observed by the British
Vice-consuls, at Tetuan and Tangiers, respecting the English._


                                                   DUTY.
                                              Spanish Dollars
    Cows, calves, and oxen, whether
      stall-fed or not, per head                 5 now  25

                                               Cobs.     Cobs.
    Sheep and goats, per ditto                   2  --    7
    Fowls, per dozen                             1  --    6
    Lemons and oranges, per thousand             1  --    5
    Eggs, Per ditto                              1  --    5
    Dates, per quintal                           4  --    8
    Orange-trees, each                           1  --    2
    Figs, raisins, almonds, nuts, rhubarb,
       oil, honey, soap, olives,
       and red pepper, per quintal               2  --   12
    Wheat, barley, oats, rice, and bean, 
       per measure                               1  --    6
    Straw, by the nett                         1/4  --    1
    Pomegranates, amber-wood, %c., per quintal   1  --    4
    Bees-wax and candles, per ditto             14  --   26
    Ostrich feathers, per lb.                    2  --   16
    Ivory, copper, sandrach, chohob,
       and gum arabic, per quintal               5  --   15
    Indigo, per ditto                            1  --   10
    Goat skins, per quintal                      4  --    8
    Beef ditto, per ditto                        3  --    6
    Lion and tiger ditto, each                   4  --   12
    Common tanned leather,per quintal            1  --    5
    Morocco ditto                             free  --    5
    Wool and hemp, per quintal                   3  --    6
    All shoes and slippers,per hundred pair      4  --   10
    Moorish caps, per ditto                      4  --   10
    Mats, each                                   1  --    5
    Mules, ditto                                10  --   50
    Asses, ditto                                 5  --   10
    Silk alhaiks, ditto                          2  --    5
    Haiks of other kinds, ditto                  1  --    3

This is a correct translation of the agreement, and tariff, settled
eleven years ago, between the present Emperor Muley Solyman, and the
late Consul-general Mr. Matra.  Having laid this before His
Excellency, I was so fortunate as to prevail on him to request the
Emperor to renew it, and to grant an increase of fresh provisions,
during the war, to the fleet off Cadiz, and to the garrison of
Gibraltar.

It is impossible to doubt for a moment, at at whose instigation it was
that Ash-Ash behaved in this infamous manner. It is certainly the
interest of the French nation to prevent, if possible, our receiving
supplies from Barbary; consequently we cannot wonder that every means
should be employed to accomplish this end, and Ash-Ash is certainly
the fittest instrument, from his hatred to the English: fortunately,
however, he is not a free agent. My friend, and the friend of the
English, the good Governor of this place, referred the whole to the
Emperor, who has very satisfactorily adjusted every thing to our
advantage, and the mortification of the French Consul, and his tool.

At the same time that His Excellency received the answer from the
Emperor to the above-mentioned application, a letter arrived,
requiring his immediate attendance at Fez; from which place you shall
again hear from me.

LETTER X.

_Depart from Larache with a little Army--Moorish military
Salute--Numerous Villages--Customary Procession of the
Inhabitants--Judicial Arrangements--River Beth resembles the Po--Herds
of Camels--Arrive at Mequinez--French Falsehood again put
down--Excellent Road from Mequinez--Fertility and Luxuriance of the
adjacent Country--Procession to the Sanctuary of Sidy
Edris--Multiplicity of Saints--Ceremony demonstrative of the Emperor's
Favour--Take possession of my new Residence._


Fez, ---- 1806.

In consequence of the dispatches received from the Emperor, we left
Larache the same day. The Governor commands a territory of two hundred
English miles. He put himself at the head of his troops, which
amounted to six thousand cavalry, divided into squadrons,
distinguished by their respective standards.  There were in his train,
besides, a prodigious number of mules, some carrying field equipage
and provisions, others the treasures, consisting of the collected
taxes, and presents for the Emperor.

This little army moved on in tolerably good order and discipline. It
was preceded by an officer at the head of a small corps, doing the
duty of a Quarter-master-general. We were met on our way by several
officers, with small detachments of soldiers, under the government of
His Excellency. The Moorish mode of saluting attracted my attention;
when on a level in point of rank, the officers embrace each other, and
then kiss the back of their own hand; but in saluting a superior, they
kiss the hem of his garment; upon which he presents his hand, and they
salute it. I assure you, they do all this with considerable grace.

In passing through villages (which in this part are very numerous, and
formed of a much greater collection of tents than those described in a
former letter), we were received by a great concourse of men, women,
and children, shouting, and making a noise exactly resembling the
whoop of the North American savages. I was informed, that this was
their usual mode of expressing their joy and mirth, on all great and
solemn occasions.  A venerable Moor, the chief of the surrounding
villages, accompanied by the military and civil officers, and by the
principal inhabitants, advanced to kiss the garment of His Excellency:
this ceremony was closed by a train of women, preceded by an elderly
matron, carrying a standard of colours, made of various fillets of
silk; and by a young one of great beauty, supporting on her head a
bowl of fresh milk, which she presented, first to the Governor (or, as
he is otherwise called, the Sheik), then to me, and afterwards to all
the officers. This ceremony is always performed by the prettiest young
woman of the village; and it not unfrequently happens, that her beauty
captivates the affections of the great men (sometimes even the
Emperor), and she becomes the legitimate and favourite wife.

When we arrived at any village, His Excellency halted to receive the
report of the commanding officer; and to inquire if any murder,
robbery, or other crimes, militating against the laws and constitution
of the empire, had been perpetrated. This excellent man patiently
listened to all the complaints made to him; and after hearing both
parties with the greatest impartiality, he ordered such delinquents as
stood fairly convicted to be punished by imprisonment, or fine,
according to the nature of their offences. At one place where he held
a court of justice, he received information of a band of assassins who
had lately committed several murders and highway robberies, and had
violated many young women, whom they afterwards destroyed.  By this
prompt and judicious arrangement, they were all secured, and brought
before him. He ordered them to be dragged in the rear of his troops to
Fez; there to receive whatever punishment the Emperor might think fit
to award them.

We performed our route by short and easy stages, on a road which is
perfectly level, and very different from those between Tetuan or
Tangiers and Larache. We generally halted about two o'clock in the
afternoon, and encamped; struck tents again at four in the morning,
and then moved on regularly without noise or confusion.

On approaching the river _Beth_, we halted, to allow the baggage to
cross, which was expeditiously conveyed in a large ferry-boat; the
horses and mules were obliged to swim over, a spectacle curious and
diverting enough.  I passed over with the Governor; after which the
boat went backwards and forwards till the whole of the troops were
transported across the river, when we encamped, the side which we had
quitted being occupied by another little army, headed by the Governor
of another district. The two opposite camps had much the appearance of
two hostile armies previous to a battle.

This river very much resembles the _Po_ in Italy, and is perfectly
navigable. On each side are immense fields of corn and rice,
intersected by tracts of waste land covered with broom and heath, and
spots of pasture-land on which large droves of camels graze. To
prevent the camels from straying, they have one of their fore legs
bent at the first joint, and tied up: they are attended by boys, who
take them out early in the morning, and at night bring them back to
the tents, before which each camel takes his place as regularly as our
cows do in their stalls.

The next morning we reached a castle, and a ruinous walled town,
occupied by soldiers, and slaves, who look after the herds of mules
belonging to the Emperor. It is situated on a hill, whence I had a
prospect of the immense plain we had first traversed, upon which not a
single tree is to be seen.

About noon, on the sixth day, we approached a lofty mountain, which
terminated this extensive plain, and formed the commencement of a
chain of high hills, which we ascended and descended successively, and
at length descried the large and populous city of Mequinez: we passed
by a long aqueduct, a remnant of ancient architecture, and several
Roman ruins, and reached one of the great gates of the town, where we
were met by a strong detachment of soldiers commanded by the Governor,
who, after the salutations and ceremonies usual on such occasions,
escorted us to the palace of Eslawee, the Governor of Larache, where I
was kindly received and most hospitably entertained by all his
relations and friends.

On the morning after our arrival at Mequinez, an express arrived from
the Emperor with an answer to a representation which I had made
concerning the loss of a French privateer on the coast of Barbary; I
had sent it at the same time with that respecting the tariff, and
expected the answers together.  The affair was this: a French
privateer attempted to board several of our transports, laden with
bullocks, from Tangiers for Gibraltar; but had scarcely succeeded with
one, when the Confounder gun-brig, which was appointed to convoy them,
came unobserved, within pistol-shot, and after an obstinate engagement
of two hours the Frenchman ran on shore, and went to pieces
immediately under the Moorish battery.  This was considered, by the
French Consul and his party, as an open violation of neutrality, and
also a gross insult to His Imperial Majesty; and as such it was
represented to him by Governor _Ash-Ash_, seconded by a letter from
the French Consul, and supported by all his partisans. On our part,
the statement was founded on simple facts, which perfectly satisfied
the Emperor, and Governor _Ash-Ash_ received a severe reprimand,
accompanied by the remark, that His Imperial Majesty regretted the
English had been so passive on this occasion, and that his subjects
did not exterminate every Frenchman that presumed to land on his
shores without his permission. You will feel assured that this
additional triumph on our part gave me no small satisfaction.

My good friend Eslawee obtained leave likewise, to repose himself and
his army for three days in his native place. This condescension was
esteemed as an excellent omen.  At the conclusion of the appointed
time, we set off for this our ultimate destination. The road from
Mequinez to Fez is excellent, extending along a pleasant and spacious
plain, encompassed by high mountains, and intersected by small rivers,
over which are stone bridges. These rivers are divided into several
branches, which are again subdivided by the inhabitants, and carried
in canals to water their lands. The prospect of the country is every
where luxuriant in the extreme, and continually presents the most
interesting objects.  A scattered ruin, a large village, a meandering
river, or a fine natural cascade, vineyards, woods, corn-fields,
meadows, and saints' houses, surrounded by beautiful gardens and
shrubberies, all lying in endless variety, formed the most picturesque
landscapes.

As we left our quarters at Mequinez rather late, we encamped at eight
o'clock in the evening at the opening of the plain I have just
described. The next morning we set off much earlier than usual, but
had not proceeded far when our progress was interrupted by a
prodigious multitude of people, who pressed forward with such
eagerness, that we were obliged to stand aside, and allow them to
pass. Men, on horseback and on foot, women, and children, formed a
procession which extended as far as the eye could reach. They were
advancing in several divisions, each division preceded by a man
bearing a standard, and by a band of music (if the horrible discord
produced by their instruments could be dignified with the name of
music), the people accompanying the band with their voices, shouting,
bawling, and bellowing their national songs with the greatest
vehemence.

These people were on their way to visit the sanctuary of _Sidy Edris_,
the founder of Mahometanism in this country: it stands on the mountain
_Zaaron_, at the western side of the plain of Fez, and near the city
of Mequinez.  Close to the sanctuary is a village, the inhabitants of
which are held in the highest veneration, their huts and tents being
consecrated to the Mahometan devotion, and, as well as the sanctuary,
forming asylums for malefactors, which are never violated even by the
Emperor. After this visit to the sanctuary, they attend an annual
meeting, where they feast for three days, amusing themselves with
dancing, fighting with wild beasts, and committing all kinds of excess
in the ancient Bacchanalian style.

Formerly saints sprang up in Barbary like mushrooms. A Moor, seized in
the night with a slight fit of insanity, was considered in the morning
as a new saint, and as such he was revered, and his name added to
their list of saints. In consequence of this, he was permitted to do
whatever his fancy directed, without suffering the smallest
molestation.  Hence many worthless wretches feigned madness, in order
that they might, with impunity, gratify their avaricious and
revengeful passions, or their violent and ungovernable lust. The
number of these impostors a few years back was incredible, and they
literally held sovereign rule, from their numbers and great influence
over this superstitious and fanatic people; but since the accession of
Muley Solyman to the throne of Morocco, their influence and their
numbers have considerably decreased. The country has been in a great
measure swept and cleansed of imposters and other profligate persons,
and the rest approach more and more towards a tolerable degree of
civilization, under his paternal care and example. His chief study and
attention appear to be directed to the welfare and happiness of his
people.

We received no further interruptions; but reached this place on the
26th of April. On approaching the walls of the imperial palace, His
Excellency formed his little army into a line of two deep. They fired
a _feu de joie_ with great precision and correctness. This done, they
filed off to the place allotted for our encampment. Shortly after, two
black slaves arrived from the palace, with a large bowl of fresh milk,
and several cakes of bread, which were presented with much ceremony to
His Excellency the Sheik, and received by him with marks of the most
profound respect.  This compliment was also paid to me, and to all his
officers. This ceremony in Barbary, indicates that the person so
honoured is a friend and favourite at the court of Morocco. The other
Governors, with the exception of three, received the same honour,
successively as they assembled on the plains of Fez, to be afterwards
reviewed by the Emperor at the anniversary celebration of the birth of
Mahomet. The three disgraced Governors were arrested the next day,
thrown into prison, and condemned to remain there at the pleasure of
the Emperor. Their whole property, amounting, as I am told, to several
hundred thousand dollars, was confiscated.

My friend finding himself thus perfectly secure, appeared in high
spirits, and proceeded to the palace to prostrate himself before his
sovereign. He was received with every mark of the highest approbation
and favour. At his return to the camp, he came to me with a smiling
countenance, and related the flattering reception he had met with. He
then informed me, that the Emperor had given orders, that a convenient
house should be immediately provided for me, and that an officer of
the household was coming to conduct me to my new habitation. This
officer arrived while we were talking, and I followed him to my place
of residence, which I found exceedingly neat and commodious. This I
continue to occupy, and am furnished abundantly with all the
delicacies which the city of Fez affords.

I have exceeded the bounds of moderation in this letter already, and
must therefore postpone my introduction till my next.

LETTER XI.

_Imperial Review of eighty thousand Cavalry--The Palace--Introduction
to the Emperor--Visit the Seraglio--Beauty of the Sultana--Her
Indisposition--Her Influence over the Emperor--His Person described._

Fez, ---- 1806.

Late in the evening of the day of my arrival, I was visited at my
house by an officer, who informed me that his royal master would
review his troops the following morning, and that, if I chose to be
present, I must repair to the palace precisely at four o'clock.

I was there exactly at the time, and in a few minutes the Emperor
appeared, mounted on a beautiful white horse, attended by an officer
of state, holding over him a large damask umbrella, most elegantly
embroidered, and followed by all his great officers, body-guards, and
a numerous band of music. He was greeted with huzzas in the Moorish
style by the populace, and received at all the gates and avenues of
the town with a general discharge of artillery and small arms, the
people falling upon their knees in the dust as he passed.  The streets
were covered with mats, and the road, as far as the plain where the
troops were drawn out, was strewed with all kinds of flowers.

The army was formed into a regular street of three deep on each side,
each corps distinguished by a standard; it extended to a great length,
through the immense plain of Fez, and presented a grand military
spectacle.  There were not less than eighty thousand cavalry.  This
review was finished in six hours, and His Imperial Majesty was so much
pleased with the steady, orderly, and soldierlike appearance of his
troops, that he commanded a horse to be given to each of the officers,
and an additional suit of clothes and six ducats more than is
customary to the men. No other exercise was performed on this
occasion, than charging, firing off their pieces, and priming and
loading at full gallop, by alternate divisions.  Thus an incessant
fire was kept up during the day.

The ground being perfectly level and good, no accident occurred. The
dress of the Moorish army differs very little from that of the
people. The officers are distinguished by their turbans, from the
privates, who wear red caps. They are considered most excellent
horsemen, and appeared to be supplied with very fine young horses, and
well appointed. I can say but little of the infantry and artillery of
His Imperial Majesty, not having had an opportunity of seeing them
assemble in any sort of exercise. The cavalry are unquestionably most
capital marksmen, and very capable of annoying and harassing and
checking the progress of an invading army. The men are stout, strong,
and robust, accustomed to a continual state of warfare, and, from
their simple and moderate manner of living, fully adequate to sustain
the fatigues and privations of the most arduous campaign.

In the Moorish army there is a prodigious number of blacks, who are
reckoned very loyal, and perfectly devoted to the Emperor.  This
accounts for so many black governors being at the head of the most
important districts and provinces of Barbary,

I returned very late from the review, and had scarcely dined when a
messenger came to request my early attendance the following morning,
to be presented to His Imperial Majesty.  I repaired betimes to the
palace, which is an immense pile of buildings, enclosed by a strong
wall and a large deep ditch. It has four great gates, plated, both on
the outside and in, with sheets of iron. I entered the front gate, and
by a covered way reached a spacious court, surrounded by a piazza,
under which several field-pieces and small mortars were placed. Here I
was met by Sidy Ameth, a black officer, who acts as master of the
ceremonies, and lord in waiting. He received me with great politeness,
and conducted me, through another gate and covered way, to a second
square more spacious than the first. In the centre was a most
beautiful white marble basin, into which played a fountain of water
clear as crystal. Over it was a kind of rotunda, supported by columns
of elegant black marble. This superb square is paved with small pieces
of marble, intermixed with pebbles of various colours, in the mosaic
style. It is formed by four wings of the building. The front wing,
exclusive of its magnificent entrance, contains several apartments and
waiting-rooms, occupied by the great officers of state; the right, the
library, and the treasury of the Emperor; the left, a superb mosque,
and a school-room for the use of the Emperor's children, where they
are taught to read and write, and study the Alcoran; and finally, the
back, the great hall of audience, in which His Imperial Majesty was
seated cross-legged upon a kind of couch, under a crimson velvet
canopy, most beautifully decorated with figured work in gold.

I was introduced by Sidy Ameth; and after making my obsequious
reverence, I stood at a great distance, waiting the Imperial commands,
when His Majesty was graciously pleased to order me, by signs, to draw
near, and then, by means of an interpreter, he informed me, that, in
consequence of the good I had done his subjects during my residence at
Larache, he had long been anxious to see and consult me. He desired me
to ask any favours I chose, either for myself or my country, and they
should be granted immediately.  I thanked His Majesty for his
condescension, and then presented him with a patent pistol, with seven
barrels, which he examined very attentively in every part, and
appeared highly pleased with its construction.

He commanded the hall to be cleared, and in a very friendly and
familiar way told me the nature of his complaint; after which he
summoned the chief eunuch, and desired me to follow him to the
seraglio, to prescribe for his favourite Sultana, who was seriously
indisposed.  On leaving the hall of audience, we turned to the left,
and arrived at a gate, which terminated the piazza on the right side
of the square. Through this gate we entered a large passage, paved
with marble; on each side were marble benches, upon which the eunuch
informed me, the inferior eunuchs and the female attendants of the
seraglio slept.  This passage conducted us to another square, on the
right of which is the Imperial bath.  It is almost impossible to form
an idea of the elegance and convenience of this structure, which is
used only by the Emperor.

Adjoining the bath is a refectory, which is constantly supplied with
every kind of refreshment.  The other sides of this square contained
the apartments of two or more ladies of His Imperial Majesty. It would
be tedious to enumerate the several squares through which I passed;
they differ only in splendour and magnificence, according to the rank
and taste of those ladies to whom they belong: they all communicate
from one piazza to another, by means of passages, such as I have
described. I was extremely indebted to my black conductor for giving
me an opportunity of seeing the whole of the seraglio; for I returned
by a much less circuitous route than that by which I went, the
apartments of the Sultana being just behind the Imperial bath.  But
where shall I find words to give you an adequate idea of their lovely
inhabitant? Conceive every thing that is beautiful, and you may
possibly arrive near the mark. She is rather below the middle size,
exquisitely fair, and well proportioned. When I first saw her, she was
in a very doubtful state, and I reported accordingly to the Emperor;
he was sensibly affected, and besought me to exert my utmost skill, to
preserve a life of so much value to him. Happily, my efforts have been
crowned with success, and I hope a very short time will restore her to
perfect health. She controls him in every thing, and is considered,
from her absolute dominion over him, as the fountain of all favours.

The gardens of the seraglio are beautifully laid out by Europeans, and
contain several elegant pavilions and summer-houses, where the ladies
take tea and recreate themselves; baths, fountains, and solitary
retreats for those inclined to meditation: in short, nothing is
wanting to render this a Complete terrestrial paradise, but liberty,
the deprivation of which must embitter every enjoyment.

Muley Solyman, the present Emperor, is about thirty-eight years of
age, in height about six feet two inches, of a tolerably fair
complexion, with remarkably fine teeth, large dark eyes, aquiline
nose, and black beard; the _tout ensemble_ of his countenance noble
and majestic. He governs Barbary with discretion and moderation; in
the distribution of justice, or in rewarding his subjects, he is just
and impartial; in his private conduct no less pious and exemplary,
than, in his public capacity, firm and resolute, prompt and
courageous.  In my next letter I shall give you a brief account of the
succession of Sovereigns from the time of _Edris_ to the present
reigning family.

LETTER XII.


_Succession of the Sovereigns from their Founder to the present
Emperor._


Fez, ---- 1806.

Edris; the founder of Mahometanism in Barbary, was succeeded by his
posthumous son, _Edris the Second_, who founded the first monarchy,
after that of Mahomet, in these regions; and it was called the Kingdom
of the West. The family of Edris continued to reign for about a
hundred and fifty years; but was disturbed, during the tenth century,
by several intestine divisions, excited by a crowd of usurpers, which
terminated in the total extinction of the Edrissites.

The tribe of Mequinici seized on several provinces, and founded, on
the ruins of the ancient, the present city of Mequinez.

_Abu-Tessifin_, a Maraboot, or Monk, taking advantage of the divisions
which convulsed these countries, and above all of the credulity of
this fickle people, sent several of his disciples to preach and excite
the multitude to revolt, under the pretext of recovering their
liberties. This great impostor was the chief of the tribe of
_Lamthunes_, surnamed _Morabethoon_, on account of the extreme rigour
with which they observed the forms of the new religion.

This tribe resided between Mount Atlas and the Desert. The Moors being
weary of their Arabian rulers, flocked in crowds to the standard of
Tessefin, who soon found himself at the head of a large army, by means
of which he conquered, many provinces, and established himself
Sovereign of Mauritania.

He was succeeded by his son _Joseph-Ben-Tessefin_, who in 1086
finished the city of Morakesh, or Morocco, which his father had begun,
and there fixed his seat of government.  In 1097 he seized on the
kingdom of Fez, and united it to that of Morocco: he also joined his
forces to those of the Mahometans in Spain, and conquered the city of
Seville, subdued all Andalusia, Grenada, and Murcia, penetrated as far
as Cordova, and defeated the army of Alphonso VI. of Spain.  After
which he returned, loaded with spoils, to Morocco, where he died. He
was succeeded by his son _Aly_, who likewise passed over into Spain,
but was defeated and slain by Alphonso at the battle of Moriella.

His son _Brahem_, an indolent prince, and much addicted to pleasure,
was proclaimed King of Morocco. His profligacy favoured the ambitious
projects of a Mahometan preacher, named _Mahomet Abdallah_. This
impostor assumed the name of _Mahedi, Commander of the Faithful_, and
drew a host of people to his standard. In the course of his mission,
he met another preacher, at the head of a multitude of followers, who
also styled himself _Mahedi_, or _the Prophet_ expected at the end of
ages.

These two adventurers, consulting their mutual interest, coalesced,
and having completely succeeded in seducing the people, by projects of
reformation, _Abdallah_ was proclaimed King of Morocco, and
_Abdul-Momen_, the other imposter, General of the Faithful. This
haying effected the destruction of Brahem, he contrived to dispatch
his colleague so privately as to avoid the imputation of being
accessary to his death, and succeeded him in the sovereignty.  He
demolished all the palaces and mosques of the Kings in Morocco, and
laid the greater part of that city in ruins, it having shut its gates
against him when, he presented himself before it; and he destroyed the
young son of Brahem with his own hands. He afterwards, however,
rebuilt Morocco, and died in 1155, in possession of the sovereign
power.

He was succeeded by his son Joseph, who passed over into Spain, and
engaging with the armies of the Kings of Portugal and Leon, he was
killed by a fall from his horse. His son _Abu-Jacob_, surnamed
_Almonsor_ the Invincible, assumed the government, suppressed the
divisions that distracted the country, and, rendered himself so
powerful and formidable, that the Mahometan Kings in Spain elected him
as their supreme ruler. After performing numberless gallant exploits,
he disappeared on a sudden, as some assert, to perform the pilgrimage
to Mecca; but it is most probable, he was secretly murdered and buried
by the descendants of Abdallah. His son ascended the throne, but died
in a very short time of grief, in consequence of his losses in Spain.
He was the last King of this family.

_Abdallah_, the Governor of Fez, of the tribe of Benimecius, usurped
the crown of his master. Of his successors, the only prince who took
part in the Mahometan wars in Spain was _Abul Hassen_, who conquered
Gibraltar, and built the fort which still retains the name of the
_Moorish Castle_. He was dethroned and assassinated by his son, _Abul
Hassen_, a ferocious and ambitious tyrant, who left a son, named
_Abu-Said_, of a very depraved character, in whose reign Ceuta, after
a long siege, was taken by Don John, King of Portugal.

These usurpers were completely extirpated by the house of Merini,
which family in its turn was overcome by _Muley Mahomet_, a Xeriffe of
the same tribe, who seized the reins of government. His successors did
not long enjoy the fruit of their usurpation, but were most dreadfully
disturbed by a series of revolutions and murders, fomented and
perpetrated by the mountaineers, a resolute, ferocious, and restless
people, who, after raising the various parts of the country in arms
one against the other, and subjecting them to all the calamities of
civil war, cruelly butchered _Muley Achmet_, the last of the sons of
_Muley Sidan_ and proclaimed their chief, _Crom-el-Hadgy_, a
bloodthirsty ruffian, of low birth, and eminent in cruelties, in his
stead. This tyrant, to secure his new acquisition, inhumanly massacred
all the male descendants of the Xeriffes. He soon became the object of
universal detestation, and was poignarded by his Sultana on the day of
marriage. She was of the family of the Xeriffes, and consented to
marry him, only that she might have a better opportunity of
sacrificing him to her revenge, for the murder of her family.

After the tragical end of the descendants of the Xeriffes, these
countries, but more especially the province of Tafilet, experienced
all the horrors of famine and pestilence, for several years. The
people of Tafilet considered it as a judgment from their Prophet for
their injustice; and, to appease him, they made a pilgrimage to Mecca,
and easily prevailed on a Xeriffe, a descendant of Mahomet, named
_Muley Aly_, who resided in a town near Medina, to accompany them back
to this country. In the mean time, the seasons having become more
genial, the harvests were so abundant, that this credulous and
superstitious people attributed the change entirely to the arrival of
the pious Xeriffe. He was unanimously proclaimed King of Tafilet, by
the name of _Muley Xeriffe_; and as such acknowledged by the other
provinces, with the exception of Morocco and its environs, which were
then in the possession of _Crom-el-Hadgy_, who having ended his career
in the manner described, was soon followed by his son; and the ancient
families who had ruled the empire being completely extinct, the new
King of Tafilet, from his birth, religion, and the public election,
was confirmed the legitimate Sovereign of the whole county.

Muley Xeriffe was the founder of the dynasty of _Fileli_, from which
the present reigning family is descended. This country, totally
exhausted by divisions and civil wars, acquired the enjoyments of
peace and plenty, during the reign of this prince, who resided at
Tafilet, and caused the Governors, who were entrusted with provinces,
to rule with equity.  He made it his whole study to render this fickle
and turbulent people happy; the latter part of his reign was perfectly
undisturbed, and his death was universally and justly lamented.  He
was succeeded by his eldest son, who was proclaimed, without the
disturbances usual on those occasions, by the name of _Muley Mahomet_.

This prince, equally just and pious with his father, reigned for some
time very peaceably; and from his exemplary conduct would have
continued to do so to his death, to the increasing prosperity of his
subjects, but for his brother, _Muley Arshid_, an ambitious prince,
who, endowed with an intelligent mind, equal to the vast project he
had in contemplation, raised a rebellion, with a view to seize on the
sovereign power. At the head of a numerous party, in a pitched battle,
he was however defeated, and taken prisoner, by his brother _Muley
Mahomet_. But he recovered his liberty, by the aid of a negro slave,
whom he rewarded by striking off his head at the very instant he had
enabled the monster to recover his liberty.

After wandering about for some time, stirring up the minds of the
people to revolt, Muley Arshid fled to the mountains of Rif, where he
offered his services to the Sovereign of those districts, who,
unfortunately discovering the abilities of the stranger, confided to
him the administration of his territories, when, after having by
stratagem and prodigality gained the troops and the people to his
interests, he dethroned and inhumanly butchered his royal
benefactor. He then defeated his brother _Mahomet_, and closely
besieged him in Tafilet, whence that good prince died of grief. To
enumerate the bloody exploits of this prince would extend my letter to
a volume; suffice it therefore to say, that his reign was short, and
the remembrance of it never to be effaced. He died in 1672 of a
fractured skull, in consequence of a fall from his horse.

He was succeeded by his brother _Muley Ishmael_, who distinguished
himself by some brave actions; and his reign would have formed a grand
epoch in the history of this country, had he not stained it by a
succession of tyranny and cruelties, too shocking to dwell upon. He
died in 1727 at the advanced age of eighty-one, leaving behind him a
numerous offspring. This prince, in order to ensure his despotic and
arbitrary power, contrived to form a regular army of foreign soldiers,
which he effected, partly from the negro families, then settled in
Barbary, but principally from a vast number of blacks which he
obtained from the coast of Guinea.

_Muley-Achmet-Daiby_, one of the numerous sons of Ishmael, ascended
the throne of Morocco, and, after reigning two years, died of a
dropsy. His successor, _Muley Abdallah_, by far surpassed all his
predecessors in point of vices and cruelty. His conduct was so
flagrant, that he was deposed no less than six times, but as often
re-elected. Amidst civil wars, divisions, and devastations, the plague
again made its appearance, and committed the same dreadful ravages as
in the reign of _Ishmael_. Being reinstated for the sixth time,
_Abdallah_ took advantage of the troubles occasioned by this terrible
disease, to excite divisions among his negro soldiers, by whose power
alone he had suffered all his humiliations. Vast numbers of this
warlike race fell the victims of his treachery, and he succeeded in
reducing them so low, that they were no longer a subject of dread to
him.  Having thus freed himself of all cause of restraint, he
recovered his power, and, if possible, plunged deeper than ever into
the gulf of iniquity; and each succeeding day was stained with crimes
of the blackest hue. The only sentiments with which he inspired his
unhappy people were those of terror and disgust. At length, worn out
with age, he died at Fez in 1757; and was succeeded by his son _Sidi
Mahomet_, who had begun to reform several abuses, during the latter
part of his father's reign, when he had been entrusted with the
government of Morocco.

This prince, the father of the present Emperor, was endowed with an
intelligent mind, and possessed nothing of the barbarian. His
political views, and excellent regulations, soon restored the order of
things. He directed all his care to the welfare of his people, both at
home and abroad; he concluded, and renewed, several advantageous
commercial treaties, with England, France, Spain, Portugal, Sweden,
Denmark, and Holland, with all of whom he maintained a good
understanding till 1777; when, gained over by the courts of France and
Spain, he broke the treaty with England, and refused to supply
Gibraltar with fresh provisions. He appointed officers of the
strictest integrity, and of moderate and resolute characters, to the
government of his provinces; and the whole period of his reign was
exempt from those horrible cruelties which had almost invariably
disgraced the sceptres of his predecessors.  He died at an advanced
age, at _Rabat_, on the 11th of April 1790.

After the old Emperor's death, the states of Barbary became convulsed
by the civil discords, attended with great effusion of bloody
occasioned by Sidi Mahomet's numerous sons, who severally aspired to
the crown. The contest was for a long time doubtful and bloody; but at
length, Muley Yezid was proclaimed Emperor, by a powerful party.  As
the whole country was up in arms, he had to combat with many
difficulties in establishing himself on the throne. He was no sooner
confirmed in his power, than he exercised it with uncommon cruelty
towards his captives.  Under the idea of striking terror into the
minds of his subjects, by the force of example, and deterring them
from revolting again, he inflicted the most dreadful punishment on
those who had opposed his authority; some he caused to be hung up by
the feet, and suffered to perish for want of sustenance; others, to be
crucified at the gates of the city; and several high priests, and
officers of state, he deprived of the blessing of sight.

But his cruelty and inhumanity did not rest here. In the above
proceedings he might possibly urge in palliation a regard to his
personal safety, and the possession of a crown which he held by so
precarious a tenure as the caprice of a multitude, who might wrest it
from him with as little scruple as they had bestowed it, if not awed
by some terrible example; but where shall we seek an excuse for his
execrable barbarity to the poor Jews in his dominions, whom he ordered
to be massacred, without distinction?  The carnage was most horrible;
and the property of this persecuted people was indiscriminately
plundered by their rapacious murderers. Six young Jewesses, who
ventured to intercede for their unhappy fathers and relations, were
burned alive.  My blood runs cold at the idea of such depravity; and I
shrink, from the reflection that our own history will furnish us with
annals, almost or fully as replete with horror as the one I am now
relating.

It is not all surprising that such unjustifiable cruelty should kindle
disgust in the minds of those who were not totally divested of the
feelings of humanity. Several of his provinces rebelled, but he
successively reduced them to obedience; and in the last battle which
he fought, before the city of Morocco, and gained, he was severely
wounded.  The rebel army was surrounded, and defeated with great
slaughter. _Muley Yezid_ was carried to the castle, and his wound
dressed; but his treatment was so improper, that, after lingering a
few days in the most excruciating torture, he died in 1794.

The present Emperor, _Muley Solyman_, was the youngest prince, and
lived retired in the city of Fez, assiduously occupied in studying the
Alcoran and the laws of the empire, in order to qualify himself for
the office of high-priest, which he was intended to fill. From this
retreat he was called by the priests, the highest in repute as saints,
in the neighbourhood of Fez, and a small party of the Moorish militia,
and by them prevailed upon to come forward as a candidate for the
crown, in opposition to his three brothers, who were waging war with
each other, at the head of numerous forces.  In the midst of this
anarchy and confusion, the young prince was proclaimed Emperor at Fez,
by the name of _Muley Solyman_; and having collected a strong force,
aided by the counsels of a number of brave and experienced officers,
he advanced to Mequinez, which he reduced, after two successive
pitched battles.  This place was defended by one of his brothers, who
shortly after acknowledged him as Emperor, joined him, and brought
over to his interests a great number of friends and partisans.  He
served Solyman faithfully ever after, which enabled him to withstand
the united forces of his two other brothers. At length, owing to the
little harmony that prevailed in the armies of his competitors, he
effected his purpose. Taking advantage of their increasing animosity,
he advanced towards Morocco, fighting and conquering the whole way. He
entered the capital in triumph, after a general and decisive battle;
and he was again proclaimed Emperor.

This brave young prince had now reduced Barbary entirely under his
sway, with the exception of the kingdom of Tangiers.  Thither the two
unfortunate princes retired, in order to make a last and desperate
stand; but after a variety of struggles, to regain some degree of
ascendancy, one was compelled to solicit the protection of the Dey of
Algiers, and the other was taken prisoner, and banished to a remote
province.

From that period, the Emperor has dedicated the whole of his time and
pursuits to the amelioration of his people's condition, by improving
his financial resources, and appointing over his provinces, mild and
humane Governors, whom he strictly superintends, occasionally deposing
such as have deviated from his orders, and often inflicting upon these
his representatives the most severe corporal punishments, previous to
their imprisonment for life.

LETTER XIII.


_Responsibility of the Governors--Empire beautiful and
productive--Humane Efforts of the Emperor--Blind Submission to his
Will--Great Number of Negroes naturalized--The Moors might be truly
formidable.--Emperor's Brother--Fez divided into two
Parts--Magnificent Mosques--Commercial Privileges--Indignities which
Christians undergo--Singular Supply of Water--The Imperial
Gardens--Propensity to
defraud--Factories--Exports--Costume--Character--Manner of
living--Domestic Vermin._


Fez.

Having extended my last letter to an unusual length, I broke off
rather abruptly; I shall therefore resume the subject in this.

The Governors commanding large districts or provinces in Barbary, are
answerable for the crimes and misdemeanors committed in their
governments, if they fail to bring the offenders to public justice;
consequently they impose very heavy fines on the community, to impel
them to seize, and deliver to them, the murderer or robber. The sudden
and frequent changes in the public offices keep the most powerful
Governors in the empire in continual awe and depression; and the fear
of being, in an instant, hurled from the height of prosperity to the
lowest abyss of adversity, usually prevents them from amassing great
wealth, as it is sure to pass into the Emperor's treasury on their
disgrace; and the same cause prevents the forming of dangerous
cabals. Yet some of them contrive, during their short-lived
administration, to squeeze from their wretched vassals as much money
as they can, by every fraudful artifice and despotic violence. The
sufferers murmur, and complain; but the government appears to wink at
the oppression for a time, and reserves its dreadful vengeance till
the annual review, on the plains of Fez, where the collected spoils of
the cruel peculator are seized, and himself deposed, imprisoned, and
the whole fruit of his rapine transferred to the royal treasury.

This empire is one of the most beautiful and fertile countries,
perhaps in the world; but the despotism under which it has groaned,
and the capricious humours of its former rulers, destroyed, and
prevented the effects of industry; besides, the rapacity of the
Sheiks, who are the Bashaws of the country, carried off every thing
that labour could collect.  The present Emperor is endeavouring to
correct these abuses, and to bring about a reformation, which I am
sure he will never effect, owing to the great influence of the priests
and saints in these states. Although this monarch is humane and
impartial, and possesses nothing of the ferocious character of his
predecessors, yet seldom a day passes without some executions.

The people regard their Emperor as a god upon earth, and revere him as
a descendant of their great prophet. All his commands, right or wrong,
just or unjust, they consider as the decrees of Heaven. A blind
obedience to the will of their Sovereign, is inculcated in the minds
of their youth, more as a matter of religion than of state; and the
Emperor may put as many of his subjects to death as he deems
expedient, without assigning any other motive for so doing than secret
inspiration. When at war with any Christian prince, it is considered
as a war of religion, and the Moors who fall in the field of battle,
are accounted martyrs.

The number of negroes that have been imported into this country, and
are now settled in these states, is astonishing. The amount is little
less than three hundred thousand.  The Emperor's body-guard, which
consists of eighteen thousand horsemen, is chiefly composed of
negroes, who enjoy every privilege that despotic power can confer, and
are ready upon all occasions to enforce the royal mandate.

The great schools for the Moorish gentry are the chanceries of the
Bashaws, where the young men learn the arts of dissimulation and
duplicity in the greatest perfection, and become, very, early such
great adepts in these valuable acquirements, that in my opinion they
are fully able to cope with Monsieur Talleyrand, and the best
politicians at the court of St. Cloud.  They are very dexterous also
in the art of temporizing with an enemy, and deluding him by a
thousand little expedients. It is therefore fortunate for Europe, that
the Moors are so indolent a set of people; for the immense power this
empire might have; were it peopled by an industrious and ambitious
race of men, would render it the most formidable in the world.

I shall now return to my own affairs, from the period at which they
were left off in a former letter. The Emperor had requested me to
report to him, personally, every morning, the state of his favourite
Sultana; I therefore waited upon him regularly at five o'clock, and
was extremely happy that I was enabled to make the report more welcome
each day.  After this visit to His Imperial Majesty, I daily paid my
devoirs to the blind prince, the only remaining brother of the Emperor
now in Barbary, and who took no part in the disputes of former times;
and I then called upon the great officers of state.

Finding the Sultana in such a fair way of recovery, the Emperor
dismissed his Governors to their respective provinces, and removed his
court to Mequinez, his favourite summer residence, leaving me here, to
complete the cure of the Sultana, and to attend several of his
subjects, who stand high in his favour, in the lower town of Fez. As
the attendance required by my patients does not occupy the whole of my
time, I employ my leisure in observing such things as appear most
worthy of remark.

The town (or rather _towns_ of Fez, this city being divided into two
distinct parts, the one called Upper, the other Lower Fez) is the
capital of the kingdom of that name, and is supposed to contain about
three hundred thousand inhabitants, besides foreigners of their own
persuasion. There are upwards of five hundred mosques: one of them in
particular, which was built by Edris the Second, and in which his
remains were deposited, is magnificent beyond description, and is
about a mile and a half in circumference. There is another very little
inferior to this, which was erected by the Arabs of Caiwan, and
called _Carubin_. The other mosques have been constructed since. To
most of the mosques are annexed several colleges, religious schools,
and hospitals for the pilgrims who visit this place, for, in point of
holiness, it is considered as next to Mecca and Medina.

The lower town of Fez was built by Edris the Second, about the end of
the eighth century, and is taken notice of by Pliny under the name of
_Volubilis_. According to that author, and others, this city ranked
amongst the principal inland towns of Mauritania, and was a Roman
colony. It is a place of considerable trade; the inhabitants are
mostly freed men, engaged in commerce, and reputed to be very opulent
and industrious; they have purchased a charter, by which they ensure a
kind of independence, and are totally unmolested in their traffic; in
short, there are great privileges attached to this town, which are not
to be met with in any other part of Barbary.  The lower town is almost
entirely surrounded by hills, which are highly cultivated, and abound
with vineyards, and gardens producing most exquisite fruits.

Upper Fez is situated on one of the highest of the hills which almost
encircle the lower town, and contains the imperial palace and
seraglio, several old palaces occupied by the sons of the Emperor, and
the habitations of the principal officers in the household. Contiguous
to these, is the inclosed town belonging solely to the Jews, who are
about thirty thousand in number, having one hundred and fifty
synagogues. On that part of the wall of the Jewish town which
overlooks Lower Fez, are placed several heavy pieces of ordnance,
which, in case of an insurrection in the latter, would very soon
demolish it: as the lower town is by much the most populous and
extensive, this precaution may not be unnecessary.  The Jewish town is
commanded by an Alcaid, who cannot however shield its unfortunate
inhabitants from oppression and insults.  These people are obliged to
walk barefooted through the Moorish streets; and they suffer the
greatest outrages without a murmur, nay, some of them have been
actually murdered in the act of selling their goods to the Moors.  No
Christian is allowed to appear publicly in the streets of Fez, without
a special permission from the Emperor, and a military escort.

These towns are supplied with water in a most singular manner from a
river, called _Rasalema_, which takes its source in a valley near the
road to Mequinez. It issues from a rock, about eight or ten feet above
the ground, in a stream, that, from the form of the valley through
which it runs, appears a continued waterfall. It is conveyed into the
Emperor's garden by means of a large wheel, about twenty-five feet in
diameter, round which, at regular distances, are small buckets, which,
as the wheel goes round, are alternately filled, and emptied into a
reservoir at the top of the wall of the garden. From the reservoir the
water is also conveyed to the upper and lower towns by aqueducts.

On the outside of one of the western gates of Upper Fez are the
gardens of the Emperor, surrounded by a good stone wall, within which
are a number of spacious walks, shaded by rows of tall trees, on each
side, and intersected by parterres and grass-plots, on which are
elegant pavilions, some in a pyramidical, others in a conical form,
where the Emperor frequently retires, to take his repose, or to amuse
himself with his courtiers.  These pavilions are between thirty and
forty feet in height, covered on the outside with varnished tiles of
different colours, and contain three and sometimes four neat
apartments, furnished in the most simple style imaginable, having in
general nothing more than a carpet, several couches, a few
arm-chairs, a table, a clock, and a tea-equipage of china. The
cornices round the walls of these apartments are embellished with
passages from the Koran, and other Arabic sentences, carved in
cedar-wood.

The propensity to cheating, so prevalent in all Barbary, is no where
so notorious as in the lower town of Fez; and the Europeans who trade
with the Moorish merchants here must employ the same means as
themselves, or submit to be most flagitiously imposed upon.

I have visited several manufactories of carpets, mats, silk, linen,
and leather, of which the merchants export great quantities.  I have
also seen some beautifully embroidered shawls, scarfs, and
sword-knots, of the manufacture of this country. Their exports besides
are, elephants' teeth, ostrich feathers, copper, tin, wool, hides,
honey, wax, dates, raisins, olives, almonds, gum-arabic, and
sandrach. They carry on a considerable trade, by caravans, to Mecca
and Medina, the inland regions of Africa, and to the farthermost parts
of the coast of Guinea; from which last place they bring gold-dust,
and a prodigious number of negroes, some of whom are destined to serve
in the Emperor's armies; the rest are slaves in the Moorish houses and
fields.

The dress of the Moors is composed of a linen shirt, over which they
fasten a cloth or silk vestment with a sash, loose trowsers reaching
to the knee, a white serge cloak, or capote, and yellow slippers:
their arms and legs are quite bare. The principal people are
distinguished by the fineness of their turbans, their linen shirts,
and cloth or silk garments, which are richly embroidered with gold;
when they go abroad, they cover this dress with an alhaik, differing
in quality according to the circumstances of the wearer; and which
they fold round them like a large blanket. They never move their
turbans, but pull off their slippers, when they attend religious
duties, or their Sovereign, or visit their relatives, friends,
priests, or civil and military officers.

The Moorish gentry are clean in their persons, in their manners
tolerably genteel and complaisant, far from being loquacious, though
not prone to reflection. They possess an unbounded degree of duplicity
and flattery; are perfectly strangers to the notions of truth and
honour, promising a thing one day which they utterly deny the
next. They are less irascible than many other nations; but when
grossly injured, seek revenge in assassination.  They are more
vindictive than brave, more superstitious than devout, firmly attached
to their ancient customs, and wholly averse to every kind of
innovation.

The Moors, in general, are extremely fond of fruit and vegetables,
which contribute very much to their contentment. The peasants eat meat
only on certain great days.  They are excessively dirty in their
cooking, and the style of their dishes is not at all adapted to the
taste of an Englishman. Their soups are made most intolerably hot with
spices; and their favourite dish is _cous-ca-sou_, which appears to me
to be prepared in the following manner: The meat and vegetables are
laid alternately in a large bowl, and seasoned; then the whole is
covered with fine wheaten flour, made into small grains, very like the
Italian pastes. It is raised into the form of a pyramid, and I should
imagine stewed, or rather steamed, as the outside remains perfectly
white, which it would not were it baked. The whole of the inside, when
brought to table, is mingled almost into one mass; the meat separating
from the bones, without the smallest difficulty: it does not contain
any gravy, and the Moors eat it by handsfull.

I generally live upon mutton and veal, both of which are very good:
the bread and butter are excellent, but the latter will not keep more
than twenty-four hours without becoming rancid. My greatest annoyance
here is the infinite number of bugs and fleas, which infest me by day
and night most intolerably.

LETTER XIV.


_Fez--Debility of the Moors--Mosques--Antiquities, Roman,
Carthaginian, and Saracen--Storks held in great Veneration--Baths--
Bazars--Inhabitants--Residence--Menagerie--Marvellous Preservation of
a Jew--Lions--Tigers--Leopards--Hyenas._


_Fez_, ----.

Considering the mildness of the climate, the uncommon fertility of the
soil, the number of mineral waters, the fragrancy and salubrity of the
air, one would imagine that the frame and constitution of a Moor
cannot but be beautiful, strong, and healthy; yet, though the most
handsome people of both sexes are to be met with in this great city,
the number of miserable objects, the wretched victims of excessive
early passions, is in a much larger proportion: it is shocking beyond
description to meet them in every corner of the streets. I have
visited a great many of these poor creatures, and found them in such a
state, that decency obliges me to draw a veil over it.

The mosques of this town, which I have before mentioned as very
numerous, are square buildings, and generally of stone; before the
principal gate there is a court paved with white marble, with piazzas
round, the roofs of which are supported by marble columns.  In niches
within these piazzas, the Moors perform their ablutions before they
enter the mosques. Attached to each mosque is a tower, with three
small open galleries, one above another, whence the people are called
to prayer, not by a bell, but by an officer appointed for that
duty. These towers, as well as the mosques, are covered with lead, and
adorned with gilding, and tiles of variegated colours. No woman is
allowed to enter the Moorish places of worship.

Several of the aqueducts, which were constructed by the Carthaginians
and Romans, are still to be seen; and the ruins of amphitheatres, and
other public buildings, are found in the town and neighbourhood of
Fez: likewise many Saracen monuments of the most stupendous
magnificence, which were erected under the Caliphs of Bagdad. The
mosques and ruins are frequented by a great number of storks, which
are very tame, and are regarded by the Moors as a kind of inferior
saints.

The baths here are wonderfully well constructed for the purpose. Some
of them are square buildings, but the greater part are circular, paved
with black or white polished marble, and containing three rooms: the
first for undressing and dressing, the second for the water, and in
the third is the bath.  Their manner of bathing is very curious: the
attendant rubs the person with great force, then pulls and stretches
the limbs, as if he meant to dislocate every joint. This exercise to
these indolent people is very conducive to health.

The bazars in which the tradesmen have their shops, are very
extensive. These shops are filled with all kinds of merchandise. In
the centre of the town is a rectangular building, with colonnades,
where the principal merchants attend daily to transact business.

The inhabitants of Fez are of a large muscular stature, fair
complexion, with black beards and eyes; extremely amorous and jealous
of their women, whom they keep strictly guarded. Their houses consist
of four wings, forming a court in the centre, round which is an
arcade, or piazza, with one spacious apartment on each side. The court
is paved with square pieces of marble, and has a basin of the same in
the centre, with a fountain. They keep their houses remarkably clean
and neat; but all the streets of this immense town are narrow, very
badly paved with large irregular stones, and most shockingly
dirty. The tops of their houses, like those of Tetuan, and other towns
in Barbary, are flat, for the purpose of recreation.

Among the remnants of several amphitheatres, there is one very nearly
entire, which is kept in constant repair at the expense of the
Emperor, and appropriated as a menagerie for lions, tigers, and
leopards. As I was contemplating it the other day, I felt at a loss to
account for this being kept in repair, while the others were suffered
to moulder into dust, unheeded, excepting a very few, and those but
partially prevented from sharing the general wreck. I had stood some
time, thus employed, when I was suddenly interrupted in my
meditations, by the sound of voices close behind me; on turning I
perceived two Jews, one of whom I knew very well, from having given
advice to some part of his family. I immediately inquired how it
happened that the building before us was so carefully preserved from
going to ruin, as happened to most of the others. He informed me, that
it was a kind of menagerie for wild beasts. "It was the same in the
time of the late Emperor," continued he; "and a very curious incident
befell one of my brethren in that place." As the narrative was not
merely very curious, but really wonderful, I cannot forbear sending
you the substance of it; as to give it you in the very circuitous way
it came to me, would be rather a tax upon your patience, particularly,
as you may not be so destitute of resources of amusement, as, I
confess, I was at that moment.

It appears, that Muley Yezid, the late Emperor, had a great and
invincible antipathy to the Jews (indeed it was but too evident in the
horrible transaction I mentioned in a former letter). An unfortunate
Israelite, having incurred the displeasure of that prince, was
condemned to be devoured by a ferocious lion, which had been purposely
left without food for twenty-four hours: when the animal was raging
with hunger, the poor Jew had a rope fastened round his waist, and in
the presence of a great concourse of people was let down into the den;
his supplications for mercy, and screams of terror, availing him
nothing. The man gave himself up for lost, expecting every moment to
be torn in pieces by the almost famished beast, who was roaring most
hideously; he threw himself on the ground in an agony of mind, much
better conceived than described. While in this attitude, the animal
approached him, ceased roaring, smelt him two or three times, then
walked majestically round him, and gave him now and then a gentle
whisk with his tail, which seemed to signify that he might rise, as he
would not hurt him; finding the man still continue motionless with
fear, he retreated a few paces, and laid himself down like a
dog. After a short time had elapsed, the Jew, recovering from his
insensibility, and perceiving himself unmolested, ventured to raise
himself up, and observing the noble animal couched, and no symptom of
rage or anger in his countenance, he felt animated with confidence. In
short, they became quite friendly, the lion suffering himself to be
caressed by the Jew with the utmost tameness. It ended with the man
being drawn up again unhurt, to the great astonishment of the
spectators. A heifer was afterwards let down, and instantly devoured.
You may be sure this story was too great a triumph on the part of the
Israelites, to pass without a number of annotations and reflections
from the narrator, all tending to prove the victory of their nation
over the heathens.  For my part, I could not help thinking that there
was too much of the miraculous in it. However, I have often heard it
asserted that the lion will never touch a man who is either dead, or
counterfeits death; indeed here they tell me, that, unless pressed by
hunger or rage, it never molests a man; and they assure me even that
upon no account will these animals injure a woman, but, on the
contrary, will protect her, when they meet her at a
watering-place. This country abounds with lions, tigers, leopards, and
hyenas, which sometimes make nocturnal visits to the villages, and
spread desolation among the sheep and cattle.

LETTER XV.

_Sudden Departure from Fez--Arrive at Mequinez--Attend the
Emperor--Melancholy Catastrophe--Expedition against wild
Beasts--Extensive Palaces--Seraglio--Visit a Haram--Founders of the
City--A fortified Town--Inhabitants--Jewish Town--Rich Attire of the
higher Orders--Numerous Market-places--Furniture--Saints'
Houses--Imperial Field Sports--Pack of Greyhounds--Abundance of Game._


Mequinez.

No doubt, my dear D----, you will be very much surprised to observe my
letter dated from this place. I assure you I had not the most distant
idea, when I wrote last, of removing so suddenly from Fez. On the
evening of the same day that I dispatched my letter to you, as I was
preparing for rest, an express arrived from the Emperor, begging me to
repair hither without delay. Concluding that nothing less than life or
death depended on my speedy arrival, I accordingly renounced the
pleasures of the drowsy god for a very uneasy seat on the back of a
mule, and at midnight set off for this place, leaving my baggage and
attendants to follow in the morning.  I rode very fast all night, and
arrived here about nine o'clock the next day. When I dismounted, I was
so extremely stiff, that it was with the utmost difficulty I could
stand; I was most dreadfully fatigued, and stood in very great need of
repose; but waving all selfish considerations, I thought only of being
serviceable, and therefore lost no time in waiting on the Emperor. He
received me in the kindest and most flattering manner, and expressed
great pleasure at seeing me; but I found my patient's case not so very
urgent as I had imagined; a few hours delay would not have endangered
the life of any human being, and it would have saved _one_, some
aching bones. However, after dispatching the case in point as
expeditiously as possible, I soon made amends for my deprivation, by
indulging in a little longer repose than usual, and on awaking I felt
myself quite refreshed, and rather pleased than otherwise at finding
myself thus suddenly at Mequinez; for having before passed the road
more leisurely, and observed every thing worthy of remark, I did not
so much regret that my journey had been performed during the night.

I have been four days here, and yesterday I was called upon to attend
the captain of a band of huntsmen, who were that morning returned from
an expedition, in which they lost three of their companions, and only
succeeded in saving their chief, and bringing him to this place, by
little short of a miracle.  He has been lacerated in a most dreadful
manner; his head is nearly scalped, and part of the integuments of his
arms and back inverted.  His condition is certainly dangerous; but, as
he is a young and healthy subject, I do not despair of effecting his
recovery.

I have learned the following particulars of this melancholy
catastrophe.  About fifty resolute young men marched hence, all armed
and well stocked with ammunition and provisions, and accompanied by a
mountaineer, who acted as guide. Their primary object was to destroy
six young lions, that had committed terrible devastation in one of
their villages; compelled the inhabitants to flee precipitately; and
themselves remained sole masters of the _citadel_. After a march of
three days, they arrived at the scene of action, and succeeded in
destroying those lions; but hearing that there were more in the
neighbourhood, they prepared to encounter them also. By order of this
young man, who was chief of the company, they separated in five
divisions, and repaired to different posts on the borders of the
forest, to wait the arrival of the lions. They had not remained long,
ere the terrific roar of these animals commenced, the sound approached
nearer and nearer to their place of concealment, and one of the lions
passed close to a party, and received the fire of their pieces; the
animal darted upon them in return, before they could charge again, and
three unfortunate men fell victims to his rage.  The creature finding
he had more enemies to contend with, and his wounds beginning to
smart, retreated to a cover, where he sat licking them, and meditating
another attack.  He was on the point of springing on the captain, who
had approached nearer to him than the rest, when the young man
discharged his musket, the contents of which entered, and dislocated,
the lower jaw of the enraged animal.  The instant the youth had fired,
he retreated with the utmost precipitation towards his companions, but
his foot unfortunately slipping, he fell prostrate between two stones:
in which position the lion assailed him; and being unable to tear him
in pieces with his teeth, in consequence of the wound in his jaw, he
made use of his tremendous paws, and would undoubtedly have destroyed
him, but for the timely assistance of his comrades.  The animal was so
intent on the destruction of his enemy, that he received a close fire
from two muskets, the muzzles of which nearly touched him.  He no
sooner found himself mortally wounded, than, raising the almost
lifeless man in both paws, he dashed him on the ground, and fell dead
by his side.

The man received a very severe contusion on his bead, which deprived
him of sense for some time, and is what I dread the most in his
case. His wounds were dressed by his companions in the best manner
they could, and he was brought hither. The Emperor has very liberally
rewarded him and his party, and made a handsome provision for the
widows and children of those poor fellows who fell in the
expedition. I sincerely hope this man may recover to enjoy the
munificence of his Sovereign.

I have most excellent quarters here, contiguous to one of the palaces,
and am allowed to walk or ride in the Imperial gardens, which are very
extensive. The Emperor's palaces here, are much upon the same plan,
with those at Fez, but larger. One of them is about three miles in
circumference. All the apartments are on the ground floor, and are
large long rooms, about twenty feet in height, receiving air from two
folding doors which open into a square court, with a portico round,
embellished with colonnades.  The walls of the rooms are faced with
glazed tiles, and the floors paved with the same, which gives an air
of coolness and neatness, so desirable in this warm climate.

The seraglio of the Emperor, and indeed the harams of men of less
rank, are sacred.  No strangers are admitted, and it is profanation in
a man to enter; but as a _tweeb_, I am privileged, and enjoy a
liberty, never granted before.  The day after my arrival, His
Excellency the _Sheik_ called upon me, and requested me to go home
with him.  He informed me that he had been assured, in the most
positive manner, by all the doctors, and female attendants, that his
wife had a dead child in her, and that nothing less than a miracle of
their great Prophet could save her.  The poor man was very much
agitated while giving me this account. I find she is his favourite
wife, and no wonder, for she is a very lovely woman.  Upon
examination, I found that what they imagined to be a dead child, is a
protuberant hardness in the region of the liver, extending nearly all
over the abdomen.  The tumefaction was considered as a case of
pregnancy; and she having considerably passed her time, the child was
thought to be dead within her. I have begun a course of medicine,
which I flatter myself will entirely eradicate the disorder.

My stay was so very short, when I was here before, that I could give
you no account of the town, &c.  The city of Mequinez is in the
kingdom of Fez, and thirty miles from the capital of that name.  The
dynasty of _Mequinez_ were the founders of this town, which they
erected upon the ruins of the old one.  Stephanus takes notice of it,
by the name of _Gilda_, and says, that it was a place of great note.
Marmol also asserts, that the present Mequinez answers in every
respect to the ancient _Gilda_.  It was considerably enlarged by Muley
Ishmael, who (as well as several other Moorish princes, successively)
defended himself in this place, against the attacks of the
mountaineers.  Several lines of circumvallation and intrenchments are
still to be seen.

It is surrounded with walls, and fortified by two bastions; but has no
artillery. It contains about one hundred thousand inhabitants;
twenty-five thousand of whom are Jews, who have a town of their own,
irregularly fortified, and guarded by a strong force, under the
direction of an Alcaid, who is styled the Governor of the Jews.

There is not the smallest difference, in the construction of these
houses, from those of Fez; though the inhabitants differ very
materially.  The men are of a short, thick, muscular make, and swarthy
complexion, with long black beards and black eyes. The women are
excessively handsome, and remarkably fair; nor are they devoid of
neatness and elegance in their dress. They improve the beauty of their
eyes with paint.

The Moorish inhabitants of this city are all militia-men, entirely at
the disposal of the Emperor. They are excellent horsemen, expert at
the sword and lance; and with fire-arms most admirable marksmen. They
are generally considered barbarous and ferocious.

The people of distinction go about richly attired, having much gold
and silver on their clothes. They take great pains in cleaning their
teeth, combing their long beards, and keeping their nails pared
extremely close.

The streets of this town are not paved; and the soil being clay, they
must be very disagreeable in winter; for, after a heavy shower of
rain, they are almost impassable from the accumulation of mud in every
quarter. The market-places, with which this place abounds, are long,
narrow, arched or covered streets, with small shops on each side,
superintended by a Cadi, and an officer under him, for the purpose of
collecting the duties on the sale of goods, &c. The chief furniture of
the houses consists of beautiful carpets, cushions, and mattresses,
upon which they sit and lie.

In and about the neighbourhood of this place are several saints'
houses, near which no Christian, nor Jew, is allowed to pass. The most
remarkable is the _hospitium_ of Sidi-el-Marti.

The Emperor's favourite diversions, while here, are shooting and
hunting, in both of which I am told he excels. He keeps a large pack
of greyhounds, as fine as any I have seen in England. His
pleasure-grounds, and park, in the vicinity of this town, abound in
all kinds of game, hares, rabbits, and deer, and in wild boars and
foxes.

LETTER XVI.

_Courtship_--_Marriage_--_Funerals_--_Sabbath_.


Mequinez.

I shall now give you an account of the manner in which the marriages
are invariably negotiated and conducted in this country. A female, the
confidential friend of the suitor, is dispatched to observe and report
the beauty and accomplishments of the young lady; and when those are
found to be perfectly adapted to the gentleman's taste, she is further
delegated to sound his eulogium, and by every means, such as
presenting her with valuable jewels, &c. to ingratiate him in the good
opinion of the fair one. When this curious courtship ends, by terms
being agreed upon, the destined bridegroom pays down a sum of money to
the bride, a license is taken out from the Cadi, and the parties are
married. I send you a description of a marriage-ceremony, at which I
was present the other day.

The bridegroom (who is one of the officers of the household) came out
of his house, attended by a vast number of his friends, and mounted
one of the best horses belonging to the Emperor, most curiously and
richly caparisoned.  He carried his sword unsheathed, and was preceded
by a splendid standard, and a band of music; he was followed by a kind
of palanquin, supported on the shoulders of four stout black slaves, a
detachment of cavalry firing off their pieces every minute, and a
procession of relatives and friends, the whole moving with great mirth
and jollity,

Before they reached the house of the bride, the cavalcade halted, and
the bridegroom dismounted, assisted by his negro slaves, and knocked
loudly at the door three times. The lady was brought out in a covered
chair, attended by four women, completely muffled up.  The whole party
of the bridegroom turned their backs, and she was smuggled into the
palanquin: they then returned in the same style to the house of her
lord, where, before she was allowed to enter, he placed himself at the
entrance, and extending his right arm across the door-way, she passed
under, as an indication of her voluntary and unconditional submission
to his will and pleasure.

After this ceremony, the bridegroom was obliged to retire to the house
of his nearest relation, where he continued three days and nights,
feasting, and receiving presents from all his male friends, while the
bride was paid the same compliments by her female acquaintance.  At
the expiration of the appointed time, the gentleman returned to his
own house.

The Moors are not allowed by their law more than four wives, but they
may have as many concubines as they can maintain; accordingly, the
wealthy Moors, besides their wives, keep a kind of seraglio of women
of all colours.

From their marriages, I am insensibly led to the subject of the burial
of their dead. Not that any idea strikes me of an analogy between the
situations of a married person, and one consigned to the "_narrow
house_," as Ossian poetically styles the grave; but from a certain
succession of thought, for which one is at a loss to account. In the
burial of their dead, they are decent and pious, without pomp or
show. The corpse is attended by the relations and friends, chanting
passages from the Koran, to the mosque, where it is washed, and it is
afterwards interred in a place at some distance from the town, the
Iman, or priest, pronouncing an oration, containing the eulogy of the
deceased. The male relations express their regard by alms and prayers,
the women by ornamenting the tomb with flowers and green leaves. Their
term of mourning is the same as ours, twelve months, during which
period the widows divest themselves of every ornament, and appear
habited in the coarsest attire.  Their burial-grounds are inclosed by
cypress and other dark lofty trees, the lower parts of which are
interwoven with odoriferous shrubs and creeping plants, forming an
almost impenetrable hedge. Some of their tombs are very curious,
though they exhibit specimens of the rudest architecture. There are
also several saints' houses in their burying-places, which render
them doubly sacred; and no Christian or Jew is suffered to enter, on
pain of death.

Friday being their Sabbath, the day is kept perfectly holy; all the
Moors are employed in prayer, reading the Koran, or visiting the tombs
of their departed friends.

Curiosity prompted me to go and see an assemblage of fanatics, at a
celebrated saint's house, in the neighbourhood of this town.  They
were to perform many wonderful things, such as tearing a live sheep in
pieces, and devouring the flesh, fighting with wild beasts, and
several other barbarous exhibitions. These people, called in Barbary
_Free Masons_, are nothing more than a set of canting, roaring
companions, surcharged with wine and other liquors, and assembled in
this holy place, for the sole purpose of giving free vent to their
brutal passions. This society is peculiar to itself, having no
connexion with our ancient or modern Free Masons. I have however
obtained a free access to their saints' houses and secret meetings,
with permission to go any where unmolested; but I always take the
precaution to go well armed, and escorted by the Emperor's guards, as
nothing can exceed the barbarous acts of this fanatic set of people.

I am extremely happy to say, that my most sanguine expectations with
regard to the poor man, whose accident I mentioned in my last, are
realized; every unfavourable symptom has vanished, and I can safely
rely on his perfect recovery. The complaint of my female patient has
also given way to a proper course of medicine, and the Governor is one
of the happiest of men. When I announced the pleasing intelligence of
her disease being removed, he embraced me with such ecstacy that I
almost dreaded suffocation; in short, he has spared nothing that can
evince his gratitude and satisfaction, for what he terms the
inestimable benefit I have conferred upon him.

The country round this city is inexpressibly rich and beautiful, being
laid put for several miles in gardens, abounding in flowers and
fruit-trees; among the latter the vine sands pre-eminent, yielding
most delicious grapes.  The air here, as in the other parts of
Barbary, is very pure and salubrious.

LETTER XVII.

_Depart for Morocco--Roads dreadfully infested, by Robbers--A Tribe of
aboriginal Freebooters--Description of Morocco--Filth of the common
People--Tobacco disallowed--Justice of the Emperor_.


Mequinez

Since I wrote last, I have taken a trip to Morocco and back again. As
I had a great deal of leisure time, and every thing here having lost
the attraction of novelty, I determined to go further up the interior
of the country; and accordingly applied to the Emperor for permission
to visit Morocco, which he granted, but with the injunction that I
should return as quickly as possible.

I set off, accompanied by my usual guard, which I assure you I never
found so necessary as on this journey; for the rapacious spirit of the
peasantry exposed us continually to the danger of being plundered, we
were therefore obliged to keep watch alternately, to prevent our
property, perhaps our lives, becoming a prey to these wretches. The
neighbourhood of Morocco is dreadfully infested by robbers and
assassins.

The inhabitants of the empire of Morocco, that are not in a military
capacity, or otherwise immediately in the service of the Emperor, are
miserably poor; and the natural indolence of their disposition
preventing them from making any laudable exertions towards gaining a
livelihood, they have recourse to every means of fraud and
violence. It is astonishing how frequently assassinations and
robberies are committed in this empire, notwithstanding the ruffians,
when detected, are punished in the most exemplary manner, by the right
hand and left foot being cut off, and the head afterwards being
severed from the body.  The relations of the murderer are all fined
very heavily, and the judgment often extends to the whole village,
near which the crime had been perpetrated; yet seldom a day passes but
some daring robbery is committed, accompanied by the most wanton and
savage cruelty; the unhappy victim of the plunderer being frequently
left in the public roads in a most shocking state of mutilation.

Another ostensible cause of the dereliction of the peasantry from the
laws of humanity, may be the extreme oppression under which they
groan; as, on account of their former propensity to rebellion, they
are now ruled with a rod of iron, which in all probability has
rendered them callous, and deaf to the voice of nature. But,
independently of these occasional depredations, there is a band of
vagrants, who are actuated by no other motives, than what their own
black hearts suggest.  They inhabit caves in the sides of enormous
rocky precipices, and go entirely naked: their principal food is the
flesh of wild beasts. This tribe of freebooters appears to be quite a
distinct set of people; they seem to have an invincible aversion to
the Mahometan religion, and worship the _sun_ and _fire_; they speak a
different language from the rest of the inhabitants, a mixture of
African and the _old_ Arabic; all which circumstances favour their own
report of themselves, which is, that they are the genuine descendants
of the original inhabitants. They look down upon the more civilized
Moors with contempt, and consider them as the real usurpers of their
country, and the plunderers of their property.  They subsist chiefly
by rapine, and frequently throw a whole village into consternation by
their nocturnal visits; yet their cunning and dexterity are so great,
that they almost constantly elude the vigilance of justice: indeed,
they are never forced from their places of retreat (which are
inaccessible to all but themselves), but when taken, it is either in
the act of robbing, or when they venture to the markets or fairs; and
then the capture is not effected without a strong body of the
military.

I was much disappointed on my arrival at Morocco with the appearance
of the place; for, instead of finding it, as I expected, superior to
Fez and Mequinez, I found it a large ruinous town, almost without
inhabitants.  It contains, indeed, a great many mosques, caravanseras,
public baths, marketplaces or squares, and palaces of the Xeriffes,
but all in almost deplorable state of ruin. Not many years since, this
city was the Imperial residence, and contained six hundred and fifty
thousand inhabitants; but the late civil wars, and the plague, which
raged with such violence, in the beginning of the present Emperor's
reign, nearly depopulated it. In consequence of the latter melancholy
event, the court was removed to Fez and Mequinez.  To this account we
may place the present desolate appearance of Morocco. The Imperial
palace is, however, kept in repair, as the Emperor goes to Morocco
annually to spend the fast-days, which are during the months of
October and November; scarcely one fourth of the other palaces and
houses are inhabited; but though this city now exhibits evident
symptoms of rapid decay, we may still form a just idea of its former
grandeur and magnificence.

The plain of Morocco is bounded by that long ridge of mountains called
_Atlas_, which screen the town from the scorching heat of the easterly
winds, while the snow, with which their summits are covered, renders
the climate more temperate than in other parts of
Barbary. Notwithstanding the salubrity of the climate of Morocco, a
residence there is rendered miserable, by the multitudes of scorpions,
serpents, gnats, and bugs, which infest the town and its
neighbourhood.

His Imperial Majesty holds a court of justice here, previous to the
commencement of the holidays, and also issues orders for a general
ablution by men, women, and children, of every class: this, no doubt,
is very necessary, as the common people seldom change their linen, and
the greater part of them are covered with vermin. During the fast they
dare not touch any food while the sun is up, and when at night they
are allowed to break their fast, they absolutely make perfect beasts
of themselves. Smoking, or chewing tobacco, and taking snuff, are
strictly prohibited, by an edict from the Emperor: the vender is
punished with the bastinado, and a confiscation of all his goods and
cattle, and the buyer with six years imprisonment.

Owing to the intense heat of the weather lately, there is a great
scarcity of water: so that we were obliged to carry it up in bags made
of goat-skin, to supply us on the road; and coming back we took the
same precaution.

When at Morocco, I was extremely anxious to visit _Mogedor_, a
sea-port town, and the island of _Erythia_, now also called Mogedor,
which island contains a castle of considerable strength, defended by a
strong garrison, stationed there chiefly, as I have been told, to
protect the gold-mines in the neighbourhood; but the distance was very
great, and my time so limited, that I could not spare a fortnight,
which it would at least have required to get there and back again. I
have been returned here two days, and, as I observed before, not so
much gratified as I expected.

As I passed one of the courts of the palace yesterday, a fellow was
receiving punishment for a robbery. The right hand and foot were
severed at the articulation, by a single blow of a large axe; the
stumps were immediately immersed in a vessel of boiling pitch; and in
this miserable condition he was turned about his business. I once
attended a man who had suffered these amputations; he soon recovered,
and, to my great surprise, instead of sorrowing for his loss, he
skipped about as nimbly as possible, and afterwards enlisted in the
police. After the fellow was turned away yesterday, a peasant, who had
walked nearly two hundred miles, presented himself before the Emperor,
to complain of the Governor of his province, for not having done him
justice in assisting him to recover a debt of about six shillings. The
Emperor listened to his grievance, issued an order to enforce the
payment of the debt, and gave the poor man a sum of money to enable
him to return home.

LETTER XVIII.

_Moorish Character--Form of Devotion--Meals--Revenue--Poll-tax on the
Jews--Royal Carriages--Ostrich-riding--Public Schools--Watch-dogs._


Mequinez.

The established religion of the Moors is Mahometan. Formerly, as well
as at present, women were considered by the Moors as the mere objects
of sensuality, and only esteemed while in full bloom. At the age of
thirty, or at most forty, they were looked upon as an inferior order
of beings, and doomed to the most abject and insupportable slavery:
indeed, the latter circumstance still exists, though considerably
mitigated. No wonder then that the doctrine of Mahomet should be
cordially embraced by a people with whose inclinations it so exactly
coincided. But that part only was adopted, which indulged them in the
gratification of their wishes; that which imposed restraint was
renounced, or only nominally acceded to. And fortunate it certainly is
for the security of the neighbouring countries that they did so; as,
when formerly they were inured from infancy to all the hardships of a
warlike life, and possessed much skill in war, they were undoubtedly
very formidable; but since their conversion to Mahometanism, they have
gradually become inactive, and their natural passion for war and
conquest has changed to absolute effeminacy.  The illiterate system of
the Moors has also completely shut the door against the arts and
sciences, and all knowledge of the value of a free and secure
commerce. Yet, notwithstanding this people are no longer either in
appearance or reality those fierce barbarians they once were, nor can
their actions in point of valour bear any comparison with those of
their ancestors, like them they retain a most inveterate antipathy to
all Christians; and a propensity towards cruelty, revenge, rapine, and
murder, still continues to form one of the most prominent features of
their character.  However, under the comparatively mild government of
the present Emperor, their behaviour towards Christians has visibly
undergone a favourable change, which would almost persuade some to
indulge a hope of the entire annihilation of their aversion; but I am
sorry to add, that I am not so sanguine, as from accurate observation
I have been led to conclude, that nothing but an immense length of
time can overcome their habitual prejudices and constitutional
inclinations.

The male inhabitants of these states are obliged to attend their
places of public worship four times in the course of twenty-four
hours. The first prayer begins about half an hour before sun-rising,
and is so regulated that they may, just as the sun rises, finish eight
adorations. They pray again at noon, at sun-set, and at midnight: they
are very fervent in their devotions, and always turn their faces
towards the east: they fast three times in a year; the first time
thirty days, the next nine, and the last seven: during these fasts
they abstain from beans, garlic, and some other pulse and
vegetables. They call the Almighty, _God of Gods_, and _Lord of
Lords_; and they all believe that the souls of wicked men will be
punished till a certain period, when they will be received to mercy.

In the morning, after prayer, they drink strong tea, which they prefer
to coffee. At eleven o'clock they, go to dinner, which consists of
fruits, sweetmeats, and their favourite _cous-ca-sou_, piled up in a
large wooden bowl.  Their chief meal is after their return from
evening prayer. They eat cakes made of fine wheaten flour; and as they
consider it a crime to cut bread or meat of any kind after it is
dressed, these cakes are made so thin that they may be easily broken
with the hands; and their meat, which is generally mutton or fowls, is
so prepared that they can without difficulty separate it from the
bones with their fingers. They sit cross-legged upon cushions, and
devour their food very greedily and without the least
ceremony. Although sobriety is strictly enjoined by the Mahometan law,
yet the Moorish inhabitants of the principal towns in Barbary make
free with most excellent wines and spirits of their own manufacture.

The revenues of the Emperor have of late augmented prodigiously. He
receives a tenth part of all the property of his Mahometan subjects;
and he compels every Jew residing in his dominions to pay a poll-tax
of six crowns annually. The number of Israelites subject to the
Emperor of Morocco exceeds one hundred thousand. They are strictly
guarded, and cruelly oppressed, and are not permitted to quit the
states without a special leave from the Emperor, to obtain which they
are obliged to pay down a large sum of money.

The authority of the Emperor is unlimited, as is that of his
Governors, who possess a power of life and death. No rank nor
condition of Moors is exempt from taxation, excepting the immediate
princes of the blood, and the _Xeriffes_, which are the only degrees
of nobility the Moors have. The Xeriffes are the descendants of their
monarchs, and their titles are hereditary: but the title of _Sheik_ is
temporary; so that the respect paid to the Sheiks on account of their
high situations expires with them.

Coaches, carriages, and palanquins are used only by the Emperor. I
have seen some, both here and at Fez, which are really elegant; they
are for the use of his ladies when they go to spend the day in any of
the Imperial gardens. The Emperor has several very handsome chariots,
in one of which he usually rides, drawn by six mules. The Moors ride
on horseback, attended by a number of slaves or soldiers, according to
their rank and wealth.

The princes of the blood and Xeriffes are not allowed to interfere in
any political or public business, and are never consulted in state
affairs. They are generally provided for, with sinecure places to
support their rank, but many of these are too small to enable them to
do so. The several Governors of provinces have each a large tract of
land; and the tax collected from the venders and buyers in the weekly
markets in their districts is also appropriated by them to defray the
charges of their retinue and troops. From the vast crown lands in this
country, the Emperor obtains sufficient for the expenses of the court,
household, and great officers of state; from which circumstance, and
what I have before said of his revenues, it is evident that his
coffers must be most abundantly supplied, and his annual saving in
ordinary cases very great. A detachment of troops from each province
is sent every three months to collect the tributes, which are levied
with the most unrelenting rigour. There are some vestiges of the
Caliphate government still remaining; for in places where no military
officer resides, the Mufti, or high-priest, is the fountain of all
justice; he collects the tributes, and under him the Cadis or civil
officers act in the same manner as our justices of the peace.

The general language of the country is Arabic; but in the inland
countries, in the provinces of Suz, Tafilet, and Gessula, the ancient
African language is still spoken. Those remote districts are now under
the sovereignty of the Emperor of Morocco; but I am told they contain
nothing particularly curious, except an immense number of pelicans and
ostriches, the latter so strong as to be able to carry a man upon
their backs. I one day saw a Moor riding in a court here upon one,
which he had got from those parts, and tamed for.  show.

The Moors write in the manner of the Hebrew language, from right to
left; they are wonderfully expeditious in it, and their seals are very
neat. Public schools have lately been established in all the towns and
villages of these states; but, as the children are taught by their
priests, a set of superstitious and fanatic people, no great benefit,
to change or improve their manners, can accrue from such an
institution.

I believe, in a former letter I told you that the peasantry reside in
tents; I have however observed a few huts built of clay, but very
few. In the centre of both the huts and tents, there is a hole dug in
the ground, where they make a fire, with an outlet in the roof to vent
the smoke. They generally burn wood, or a species of charcoal, in the
preparation of which they contrive to deprive it of the baneful
effects usually experienced from the use of it in England. They have
mats spread round the fire, upon which they sit in the day, and sleep
at night. They are so parsimonious, that they live the greater part of
the year on fruit, vegetables, and fish, though they supply the
markets with abundance of fowls (of which they rear immense numbers),
butter, &c. &c. Their chief defence at night is their dogs; each tent
is provided with one, and they are so vigilant, that they give instant
notice of the approach of intruders; and when the alarm is
communicated to the whole of them, it is scarcely possible to conceive
the effect.  The habit of the peasantry is the same both winter and
summer, and consists of a thick garment (frequently old and tattered),
a short capote, a greasy turban, and a pair of yellow slippers. They
sometimes throw round them a coarse white _haik_, which also serves
for a bed and covering in the night, as many of them lie upon the bare
ground in the open air before their tents.

In my next I shall give you a short sketch of the produce of this
fertile country.

LETTER XIX.


_Face and Produce of the Empire, natural and artificial_.

Mequinez.

The mountains (the principal of which are Mount Diur, Mount Cotta,
near the city of Larache, the mountain commonly called _Ape's Hill_,
between Tangiers and Ceuta, and that remarkable ridge called Mount
Atlas) contain mines of gold, silver, copper, and tin.

The chief capes or promontories of these states are, Cape Cottes or
Ampelusia, known to our seafaring people by the name of Cape Spartel,
the _Promontorium Herculis_, and the _Promontorium Oleastrum_, so
called from the prodigious number of wild olives growing upon it.

All the bays round the coast furnish an abundance of the most
delicious fish of every kind; and the several rivers are equally
productive.  The occasional overflow of the rivers greatly enriches
and fertilizes the soil, to which, more than to their own industry
(for they never manure their grounds, and are absolute strangers to
the art of husbandry), are the Moors indebted for their plentiful
crops of wheat, Turkey corn, rye, rice, oats, barley, and grain of all
kinds.

I have before told you that this country abounds in fine fruits. The
most esteemed are, oranges, grapes, pomegranates, lemons, citrons,
figs, almonds, and dates. The Moors also grow great quantities of
excellent hemp and flax. Medicinal herbs and roots are very plentiful
here. Vegetables of every kind, and melons, cucumbers, &c. thrive
exceedingly well. The grass grows spontaneously to an amazing height,
and in consequence of the fine pasturage the animals are very
prolific, cows and mares producing two at a birth, and the sheep
frequently four lambs in the year.

Among the botanical herbs, plants, and roots, are the colocynth, palma
Christi, wild and meadow saffron, the great mountain garlic, mountain
satyrion, senna, rhubarb, bastard rhubarb, balsam apple, horned poppy,
wild succory, recabilia peruviana, ipecacuanha, wild turnip, wild
radish, field mustard, Indian cress, dandelion, black winter cherry,
wild lily, hyacinth, violet, narcissus, wild rose, camomile, tulips,
and the _fleur de lis_, equal to that of Florence; with a variety of
others too numerous to describe.

The domestic animals of these states are, the horse, ass, mule, rumrah
(a beast of burden in the mountainous parts), camel, dromedary,
antelope, cow, dog, sheep, and large goat. The beasts of prey are,
lions, tigers, leopards, hyenas, and wolves. The apes are
innumerable. Deer, wild boars, hares, rabbits, ferrets, weazels,
moles, and camelions, are also found in great numbers. Horses and
cattle of all kinds are sold at very low prices.

Among the feathered tribe most common here, are, very large eagles,
hawks, partridges, quails, wild pigeons, and wild fowl of every kind,
turtle-doves, and a variety of small birds; among which the capsa
sparrow is remarkable for the elegance of its plumage and the
sweetness of its notes, in which it excels every other bird: this
beautiful little creature cannot live out of its native country.  I
had almost forgotten to mention the storks and cranes, which are seen
here in great numbers, and so extremely tame, from being perfectly
unmolested, that they build their nests and rear their young in the
very centre of the towns and villages, and on the tops of the towers
of their mosques. Of the reptile kind, venomous spiders, scorpions,
vipers, and enormously large serpents, are common in Barbary.

The greatest natural curiosities of this country are the salt-pits
(which in some places are immensely large), and several hot springs,
possessing such a great degree of heat, that an egg being put in for a
short time will become quite hard. The face of the country itself is a
natural curiosity; the vallies, which are several leagues in extent,
and the mountains, which reach as far as the deserts of Suz, Tafilet,
and Gessula, interspersed with forests or corn-fields, and rich
meadows, are remarkably curious.

The artificial curiosities are very numerous, and claim the attention
of all who may visit this country. They ought properly to be divided
into two classes; in the first of which may be placed the
subterraneous cavern and passage near Tangiers; the ruins of the
amphitheatres, triumphal arches, temples, &c.  erected by the
Carthaginians, Romans, and Arabs, at Fez and the several other towns
of Barbary. The country is besides all over scattered with the remains
of ditches and ramparts, evidently designed for the defence of camps,
forts, and castles, no other vestiges of which, however, can be
found. Besides these, I have observed a number of round towers, which
appear to have belonged, some to houses of religion, and others to the
palaces or residences of former rulers in this country.

In the second class, we may place the efforts of the architectural and
mechanical genius of the present inhabitants, exemplified in the
wonderful aqueducts at Morocco, which commence in Mount Atlas (by the
natives called _Gibbel-el-Hadith_), and convey water in the greatest
abundance to all the houses of the city and its environs. Nor is the
wheel at Fez, which I mentioned in a former letter, less worthy of
remark; and several mausoleums in their burial-places have been
constructed in a very costly style, the stucco of the walls being
remarkably smooth and beautiful, and as hard as marble; but these
tombs are exceptions to the general rule; for, as I have before
observed, the greater part are but rude buildings. There are many
other curiosities, which to describe minutely would fill a volume.

LETTER XX.

_Practice of Physic--Astrology--Poetry--Entertainment given by the
Author to the Moors--Their Astonishment at the Effects of
Electricity_.


Mequinez.

I shall now speak of their principal or rather only studies, which
are, physic, astrology, and poetry. First then of physic, to give you
an accurate idea of the extent of their knowledge in which, it will be
sufficient to describe their practice of it; and I am sure you, my
dear D----, and every other friend to humanity, will agree with me,
that it would have been better for their countrymen if they had never
attempted it at all, as unassisted nature would do more, for those
afflicted with disease, than such bunglers.

The general practice adopted by the Moorish physicians, or _Tweebs_,
is, bleeding _ad deliquium_ in all fevers; administering excessive
doses of drastic medicines, plenty of emulsions, and a watery
diet. They order vinegar in cases of quinsies and ardent fevers, and
garlic in those of a putrid, malignant, and pestilential kind. They
prescribe alum in cases of hemorrhage and dysentery; hot spices and
long abstinences in chronic diseases; recent ox-gall to kill worms and
cure dropsies; castor and myrrh in all hysteric affections; asses milk
in slow fevers and consumptions; oranges, honey, eggs, mint, and
myrrh, in cases of typhus; poppy-juice in convulsive disorders and
fluxes of the bowels; pitch or tar water and pennyroyal in common
fevers; rose-leaves in cases of diabetes; and sulphur in all cutaneous
disorders. This is the whole of the Moorish _materia medica_.  In
simple diseases, where little medical ability is necessary, and the
good habit of body of these people in general contributes to their
success, they may effect a cure; but in desperate cases, where nothing
but the skill of the physician can relieve oppressed nature, it is not
astonishing that they should fail. These men are in some measure
astrologers: most probably, being gifted with a greater degree of
cunning than their neighbours, they have discovered the weak side of
their countrymen, together with their own insufficiency, to cover
which they pretend to a knowledge of the stars, which has the greatest
weight with the superstitious Moors; consequently, when a patient,
either by their improper treatment, or the violence of his disease,
evinces symptoms of approaching dissolution, the doctor, with infinite
gravity, points out to the surrounding relations the star which, he
positively asserts, appears to summon the dying man to the bosom of
his Prophet. By this means he avoids reproach, since he has made it so
evident, that the poor man's time was come, and that nothing could
ward off the shafts of destiny.  This apparently wonderful faculty of
prognostication, added to their exemplary mode of living, and liberal
donations to the poor and afflicted, operating upon the minds of the
blind and fanatic Moors, induces _them_ to consider their physicians
next to their saints, and to worship _them_ with nearly as much
reverence.

The Tweebs have each from two to six disciples, whom they instruct and
initiate in their secrets of the healing art. In their regular visits
to any town, they parade the streets with great pomp and gravity,
followed by a train of miserable objects, who pretend to have been
recently recovered from a long and dangerous illness by the
extraordinary skill of the doctor; while, in fact, their cadaverous
countenances and emaciated bodies seem to contradict their assertions,
and bear ample testimony that they are hurrying fast to that country,
"from whose bourne no traveller returns."  Under the pretence of
charity, these poor wretches are supported by this Moorish
Aesculapius, while his views in so doing are entirely selfish; that
by their means he may better impose on the credulous, and obtain
considerable sums of money. When any one of them (by chance) effects
what he considers a great cure, it is communicated in a circular
letter to all the doctors in Barbary.

They select one of their elders every year, and appoint him to preside
over them. His business, for the time being, is to settle all their
controversies: he is the fountain of all justice among them; for as
they are looked upon to be petty saints, they are a privileged set of
men, and not in the least subject to either civil or military
jurisdiction. They possess the art of taming the monstrous serpents of
the country, and rendering them perfectly harmless: in short, their
profession is nothing but a system of the grossest empiricism.

Formerly the country could boast of having scientific astronomers;
for, like the ancient Egyptians, the inhabitants of Barbary cultivated
the science of astronomy with great success; but as it was
communicated from generation to generation by tradition only, it is
not surprising that the increasing indolence of the Moors should have
made them relinquish the more abstruse parts, and that now it is
dwindled into mere astrology. Their habitual mode of living,
frequently exposed at night, during all weathers, in the open air,
enables them without difficulty to observe the fixed stars, and their
influence on the weather, and they have thence ascribed to every one
some peculiar property, by which the events of human life, good or
bad, are regulated.

In poetry I am told the Moors are very successful.  The subjects of
their poems are mostly eulogies of the great men who have belonged to
the tribe of which the poet is a member: these compositions are all
extempore, like those of our ancient bards, or those of the Celts,
spoken of by Julius Caesar, who wandered about in Gaul and other
parts of the continent with their harps. The poets of Barbary have no
settled home, but with an instrument somewhat resembling a mandolin
they wander from place to place, and house to house, composing and
singing pieces improviso, on the honour and antiquity of their
tribe. From persons acquainted with the language, I have heard, that
they are very happy in this species of poetry, which is far from
deficient in point of harmony. For myself I can say, that though
unable to enter into the spirit of it from the circumstance of not
perfectly understanding the language, yet I was much pleased with the
effect.

I shall conclude this letter with a short description of an
entertainment which I gave to several of the inhabitants of this place
a few days since. Having invited as many as I could conveniently
accommodate, I regaled them with all the most exquisite things the
market afforded. I passed the bottle pretty briskly, telling them the
liquor was a favourite decoction of mine, which they might drink
without any scruple. They did not seem to wish to doubt this
assertion; and having raised their spirits to a flow of mirth and
jollity, I told them, that, as they had done me the honour of coming
to dine with me, I would endeavour to amuse them with a small specimen
of what the doctors in England commonly make use of in certain
chronical complaints. I then placed my electric machine in the centre
of the court, and having loaded it with a sufficient quantity of
electric fluid, produced such a powerful shock to about a dozen of the
stoutest, that, either from surprise or terror, they fell apparently
senseless on the floor. The consternation and confusion which ensued
were beyond description; the rest were all retiring precipitately with
the most dreadful yells and cries imaginable, expecting to share the
fate of their companions. With much difficulty I prevailed on them to
remain, and, raising the men from the ground, I convinced them they
had received no injury; upon which they unanimously attributed it to
my great skill in magic, and loaded me with a thousand compliments, I
repeated the experiment three or four times, to their inexpressible
wonder, and I was at length almost hailed as a supernatural being. The
report of this extraordinary phenomenon soon spread abroad, and a vast
concourse of people assembled; but my guard would not allow any one to
enter without my permission. In the evening I sent for a band of
music, and my company continued dancing and rioting till morning. They
brought in several Jewish women, and carried the farce to such a
length, that I was completely rejoiced to get rid of them,
determining, in my own mind, never again to venture such another
entertainment.

LETTER XXI.

_Prevalent Diseases--Abuse of Stimulants--Medicinal
Well--Sorcery--Hydrophobia._


Mequinez.

Although the plague is not so common in these states as in Turkey and
Egypt, yet it is often brought hither by means of the caravans, and
several articles of luxury imported annually by the merchants from
Mecca and Medina; and, for want of proper precaution, it is suffered
to spread, to desolate, and to stop of its own accord; for the Moors
continue obstinately blinded by the same superstitious and absurd
notions that are entertained by the Mahometans of the Turkish empire,
of its being a punishment occasionally inflicted upon the true
believers by their angry Prophet, and that it is incurable; and here I
receive on this subject the same tales and romantic accounts that I
did during my residence in Egypt in the year 1801.

The most prevailing diseases in this country that have come under my
observation, are, cutaneous disorders of all kinds, intermittent
fevers, those of a putrid, malignant, pestilential kind, and the
puerperal fever, which proceeds from the barbarous treatment of
lying-in women in this country, as they are kept in small confined
rooms, deprived of the benefit of pure air.

One day I went to see a very fine young woman, the lady of one of the
Xeriffes. The heat of the room was intolerable. After much persuasion,
I succeeded in having her removed to a cooler one, and she recovered,
contrary to the predictions of the female attendant, who reported the
daily changes to a celebrated doctor here. It is wonderful what
numbers of young women fall victims to this fever in the course of a
year.

Besides the above-mentioned complaints, I have observed insanity,
epilepsy, spasmodic affections of the face, ruptures of all kinds
(which last are produced by their loose kind of trowsers); nervous
consumptions, extreme debility, and dropsy, brought on by their
indolent manner of living, and the great abuses of violent doses of
drastic medicines.

The principal and opulent inhabitants of this country, in order to
excite certain desires, are frequently in the habit of receiving, from
their own doctors, several strong and powerful stimulants, to the
infallible detriment and ultimate, destruction of their
constitutions. I have been at great pains to deter them from these
abominable habits, by representing to them their ill effects and fatal
consequences; but as they all appear to have a great propensity for a
short life and a merry one, I fear my advice has been thrown away, for
I have daily the most pressing and importunate solicitations from all
classes of people, both young and old, to give them the medicines I
have alluded to:--but 1 must here be clearly understood, that
debauchery which exists in all the principal towns of this country in
a superlative degree, does not extend to the inland and mountainous
parts, where the morals are pure, and the people remarkably healthy,
strong, and robust, living to a very advanced age, and scarcely ever
afflicted with any disease excepting cutaneous disorders, to which
they are very subject. The great abuse of blood-letting on all
trifling occasions, practised by the rich inhabitants, produces very
bad effects.

There is a well in the neighbourhood of this town, which possesses a
great many medicinal virtues; and though I have not been able to
ascertain its mineral qualities, I have found, by using the water,
that it is extremely friendly to the stomach, that it excites appetite
and digestion, and lively spirits; that it is efficacious in the cure
of gravel and nephritic complaints; and in cases of foulness of the
blood, I have found it superior to any mineral waters I have met with
in Europe.  It has completely cured my Jew servant of a most
inveterate scurvy, under which he had laboured for a very considerable
time.

Notwithstanding the Moors possess this inestimable treasure near one
of their most opulent and populous cities, yet, owing to fabulous
tales, handed down by tradition from one generation to another, these
superstitious people will never drink or disturb the water; to do so
is reckoned sacrilege, and the offender is severely punished: for they
positively affirm, that one of their great saints has been transmuted
into it, and that at some distant period he will resume his natural
form, to perform a great many miracles, and to render the Moors rich
and happy, more so indeed than Mahomet has promised them in the other
world.

While I have been here, I have had daily intercourse with the most
eminent of their Tweebs. They pay me regular morning visits,
questioning me on several points. One day I was asked by what means
health was preserved, and what produced disease in the human body; I
answered, that, "among several other remote causes, the air, by its
different constitutions, had a great effect upon the human frame: that
diseases revolve periodically, and keep time and measure exactly with
the seasons of the year; and that either health or disease depended in
some measure on the universal influence of the air, by its gravity,
heat, cold, moisture, dryness, or exhalations."  They have no idea of
natural philosophy, nor of the knowledge and physiology of the air, or
how to change and destroy its bad qualities in close and confined
places. After much persuasion, I prevailed on some of them to make use
of the fuming mixture of brimstone and aromatic ingredients, in all
cases of pestilential fevers.  Though this is not so efficacious as
the nitrous acid, yet it will considerably abate the progress of
contagion, and they are acquainted with the materials of the former,
whereas they have not the smallest idea of the latter.

They are perfectly ignorant of the animal and comparative anatomy, and
of physiology and pathology. They have no notion either of the nervous
fluid, or of the solids, their restriction and relaxation. They have
no other idea of the fluids than the blood, to a superabundance of
which they attribute all the diseases incident to the human body. In
the spring they recommend bleeding, to ensure a good state of health
for the remainder of the year. These Tweebs are wonderfully reserved
in all their actions.

The Moors have great faith in sorcery and witchcraft. I was called
upon to visit a young man about eighteen, who was universally believed
to be possessed by an evil spirit.  His case was a confirmed
hydrophobia. I informed the people that the disease was occasioned by
the bite of a mad dog, and that the man would die in the course of the
ensuing night. I inquired the next morning, when I found that I had
judged correctly. I have also visited several young women who were
reported to have been bewitched. Some I found labouring under the last
stage of a nervous consumption; others under a dangerous and incurable
lunacy. In short, nothing can exceed the ignorance and superstition of
these deluded people.

I am afraid, my dear D----, I have trespassed on your patience, both
in this letter and the last, as nothing but physic and its
practitioners have been introduced and discussed.  I have certainly
been too selfish; for, while I have been pursuing a subject the most
interesting to me from the nature of my profession, a thought never
once obtruded itself, that my friend perhaps would take no interest in
the relation. However, by way of compensation, I give you leave to
wish the Moorish physicians and their physic at the bottom of the Red
Sea, and me with them, if you choose; but I have now done with them,
and my next will, most probably, not be from Mequinez, as I think I
have a good opportunity of returning to Gibraltar.

LETTER XXII.


_Depart for Gibraltar--Oppressive Heat--Robbers--Arrive at
Larache--Affray of some English Sailors--Letter from the Governor to
Lord Collingwood._

Larache, August I, 1806.



I was perfectly right in my conjectures, that you would hear no more
from me at Mequinez.  Having succeeded in curing the patients under my
care, and no disease of any consequence prevailing in the country, I
thought it a favourable opportunity to request permission of the
Emperor to return to Gibraltar; and having obtained it, I set off for
this place.

On my way hither, I experienced the most dreadful inconvenience from
the heat of the weather; it was oppressive in the extreme, and I was
constantly annoyed with the sight of dead horses, mules, asses, cows,
&c. that had perished on the road, from excessive heat and want of
water. The rivers which I had observed on my way to Mequinez, and the
waters of which I had so much relished, I now found completely dried
up. We also suffered considerably from the want of fresh water, for
that we had brought with us in bags became so hot, that nothing but
the most dire necessity could have compelled us to make use of it;
fortunately we now and then met with fields full of fine water-melons,
of a most exquisite flavour: we sought them with the greatest avidity,
and obtained relief from the excessive thirst with which we were
oppressed. We were obliged to make very short stages, and to halt
every hour under the shade of some tall trees, to recover ourselves.

I have had two or three most unpleasant encounters (on my way from
Mequinez) with robbers. In the first I ran the risk of my life. It was
the sixth day after we left Mequinez, as I was loitering considerably
in the rear of my party, I was accosted by a common Moor on horseback,
who, after surveying me from head to foot, asked for a pinch of snuff,
which I gave him; then spying the gold chain of my watch, he attempted
to seize it; but I prevented him by spurring my horse and galloping
off to join my guard: the fellow fired his piece, which fortunately
missed, and gave me an opportunity of returning the compliment, and of
wounding him; when perceiving my guard coming at full speed to my
assistance, wounded as he was, he made off across the fields, and was
soon out of sight. This event (which, had I been in other
circumstances, would have had no weight with me) I frankly confess so
much agitated my spirits, already exhausted by the intense heat and
intolerable thirst under which I suffered, that I found myself unable
to proceed much further. At a little distance was a forest, and to the
shade of that we determined to repair for the rest of the day,
provided we could find a convenient spot to pitch our tents upon. We
reached it about nine o'clock in the morning: I was assisted to
dismount, and stretching myself on the burnt grass, under a clump of
olive-trees, I desired my men to look about for a place to erect our
tents. After a few minutes absence, they returned with the joyful
intelligence, that they had met with a fine spring of water, and near
it a sufficient space for our tents. This might indeed be called
resuscitation to our drooping spirits. I arose with more alertness
than I thought possible, and followed my men to this delightful
spot. My wine was expended, and we were therefore glad of a glass of
spirits and water, which completely recovered us; and we were enabled
to enjoy a good dinner, which my Jew servant prepared.

We encamped, on this spot, for the night also; and from the occurrence
of the morning, I thought it highly expedient to take every measure to
prevent a repetition. I therefore ordered two or three fires to be
kindled round our tents, and placed several sentinels about, to watch
if any one approached. Having made these arrangements, and given
strict orders to the serjeant to be on the alert, I repaired to rest;
but there certainly was some spell, to prevent my enjoying what I
stood so much in need of, a _sound_ sleep. I had retired, but a very
short time, to my tent, when I was suddenly roused by an alarm of The
robbers!  the robbers! The ruffians had contrived to slip in so
privately, that, unperceived, they carried off one of my trunks, and
were in the act of mounting two of my mules, when they were
detected. They instantly made off with the trunk and mules. The
confusion among my people was much greater than was necessary, and
some time was lost in useless upbraidings.

I went out with the intention of calling the serjeant to a severe
account, when I was informed that he had just gone in pursuit with six
others. Those that remained kept vigilant watch with me the rest of
the night. At break of day our party returned. They soon came up with
the robbers, who, finding themselves so closely pursued, and likely to
be overtaken, relinquished their booty to facilitate their escape. I
had the satisfaction therefore to recover my trunk and mules. The
serjeant employed the whole of his rhetorical abilities to give weight
to the affair. I soon perceived that his account was much exaggerated,
and immediately comprehended that his drift was to obtain a reward
from me. I did not disappoint him, but ordered an extra allowance of
rum to him and the rest of the party. As you may suppose, I was very
anxious to quit a place where I had been made so uneasy, I ordered the
tents to be struck; and, after riding five hours, we halted near a
village, upon a pleasant hill about thirty miles from Larache, where
we were abundantly supplied with provisions by the Cadi. From this
place we had a most delightful prospect of the Atlantic Ocean to our
left, and, to the right and front, an extensive forest and an immense
plain of corn-fields and meadows. We set forward again at daybreak;
and by pursuing our journey in the afternoon, for it was utterly
impossible to travel in the middle of the day, we reached this city
(Larache) late in the evening.

After breakfast next morning, as I was going up to the Castle to pay
my devoirs to the worthy Governor, my attention was arrested by a
great riot in the street. Perceiving four of our sailors likely to
become the victims of an enraged multitude, I hastened to their
relief.  I found that the disturbance was occasioned by their
imprudence in attempting to inspect the face of a Moorish woman. They
belonged to a Gibraltar privateer, which had just arrived at this port
to take in refreshment.  Having drank too much _aguardiente_ they
imagined themselves in the streets of Gibraltar. I found no great
difficulty in prevailing on the mob not to injure them, and in
ensuring them a safe conduct back to their vessel. I recommended the
commander of the privateer to put to sea without loss of time. The
Governor not only forgave the offence, but sent plenty of fresh
provisions on board for the ship's company just as the vessel was
getting under way.

Commanders of armed vessels putting into a port of these states should
not, on any account, suffer their men to go on shore, as they are very
apt to ridicule the Moors, who are a set of people not to be trifled
with. To prevent, therefore, any unpleasant occurrences, that may tend
to lessen the high opinion which the Moors in general entertain of the
English, and in order to defeat the views of the French party, which
are incessantly directed towards forming dangerous cabals against the
interest of the British nation, some effectual means ought to be
applied. The Moors are very fickle, and their predilection may be
converted into hatred, which is exactly the point the French aim at,
to the great detriment of our fleet stationed in those seas, but
particularly to the garrison of Gibraltar, and would ultimately
involve us in an unprofitable war.

His Excellency has written to Lord Collingwood, to request a vessel to
convey me to Gibraltar; he has very handsomely given me a copy of the
letter he sent, which I inclose for your perusal.


"Larache, July 27th, 1806.

"MY LORD,

"His Imperial Majesty has been pleased to bestow on Dr. Buffa many
presents, consisting of horses, mules, &c. &c.  and entertains a great
regard for him on account of the good he has done in Barbary; my Royal
Master has also been graciously pleased to give him a letter to the
King of England, intreating that the Doctor be permitted to attend the
Emperor occasionally, and to reside for the future, for that service,
at Tangiers or Gibraltar.

"In compliance with His Imperial Majesty's wishes, I have now most
earnestly to request that your Lordship will be pleased to order
Dr. Buffa a sure conveyance to the garrison of Gibraltar, and one of
His Majesty's transports to receive the presents given to him, as a
reward for his merit, and for his good and steady conduct during his
stay with us. The Doctor carries with him the good wishes of all the
Moors attached to my Royal Master; and I have the honour to assure
your Lordship, that he has daily exerted himself with me, and lately
with His Imperial Majesty, for the service of his King, and for that
of his fellow-subjects at Gibraltar. On this account alone I hope your
Lordship will, as soon as possible, afford him an opportunity to join
his family, at Gibraltar, in safety.

"I have the honour to be,

"My Lord,

"Your Lordship's

"Friend and servant,

(Signed)

"MOHAMMED ABDALLAH ESLAWEE,

Governor of Larache, &c. &c. &c.

_To the Right Hon. Lord Collingwood,
Admiral and Commander in Chief, &c. &c. &c._




LETTER XXIII.

Embark for Gibraltar--Precautionary Hints.


                            Gibraltar.

In compliance with the request of the Governor of Larache, His
Majesty's hired armed ship the Lord Eldon was ordered by Lord
Collingwood to convey me to this place. She arrived at Larache about a
week after I wrote last. The bar unfortunately proved so bad, that she
was obliged to drop her anchor on the outside; and the Captain,
conceiving it an unsafe anchorage, pressed me to repair on board
without delay, which I did, after taking a long farewell of my noble
friend the Governor, who, with tears in his eyes, embraced me, and
otherwise evinced his infinite regret and true friendship.

We embarked all my horses, mules, &c.  &c. without any accident, and
immediately after set sail for Tangiers. I cannot find words to
describe the interesting, curious, and romantic appearance of the
Barbary coast, from Larache to Tangiers, when viewed from the sea. I
took my station on the quarter-deck, and, as we sailed close in shore,
my curiosity was fully gratified. There are several small bays and
creeks along this coast, which unfortunately afford shelter to the
enemy's privateers, where, in perfect security, they remain concealed,
watching an opportunity to come out and seize any of our straggling
vessels that have either separated from, or are waiting for convoy to
enter the Straits.

It is a great pity that the number of our gun-boats at this port
(Gibraltar) is so limited, as a larger number of them, and a few other
small vessels kept in readiness here, and well appointed, would
protect our commerce, and prevent our suffering so much from the
Spanish boats, and several small French cruizers, which infest this
part of the world, and almost daily capture some of our merchantmen,
which they carry into Algesiras in sight of this garrison.





APPENDIX.



No. I.

Copy of a Letter from JOHN TURNBULL, Esquire, Chairman to the Board of
Trade, to E. COOKE, Esquire, Under Secretary of State, &c. &c. &c.


SIR,

In my capacity of General Chairman of the Merchants trading to the
Mediterranean, and in consequence of the commercial relations which I
have long maintained with Gibraltar, I think it my duty to submit,
with great deference, to the consideration of Lord Castlereagh certain
observations respecting the late dreadful calamity, which afflicted
that garrison. The great mortality which then prevailed, and which
carried off almost the whole of the civil inhabitants, was in a great
degree to be imputed to the want of medical assistance for the poorer
classes of the people, who are chiefly foreigners. The physicians and
surgeons attached to the army, had every moment of their time fully
occupied by the care of the troops immediately under their charge. If
even they could have spared a little attention to the miserable
objects just mentioned, it could probably have produced but a very
inadequate effect. As the medical gentlemen could not be supposed to
be acquainted with the various foreign dialects that these people
could only make use of, they were therefore obliged to be abandoned to
their fate; and by their numerous deaths, and the intercourse they had
with one another, necessarily occasioned a deplorable increase of
contagion. It is therefore respectfully suggested, that, as the return
of such a disorder ought at any rate to be guarded against, it would
be highly desirable, that a medical gentleman, conversant with the
languages of the southern parts of Europe, should be appointed as
physician to the civil inhabitants of Gibraltar, and for their express
and immediate care. There is now in London, a gentleman (Doctor
Buffa), Physician to His Majesty's Forces, who appears to be
peculiarly well qualified for such an appointment. He is possessed of
superior medical abilities, and particularly in the disorders of the
plague and yellow-fever, in the treatment of which he has had much
experience and success; and having been born in Piedmont, he is well
acquainted with the southern languages of Europe. If Lord Castlereagh
should be pleased to approve of Doctor Buffa being placed at
Gibraltar, in the situation which I have taken the liberty to suggest,
it would occasion no extraordinary expense to Government, Doctor Buffa
being now one of the Physicians to the Army, and might eventually be
productive of the most beneficial effects.


  I have the honour to be, most respectfully,
        SIR,
   Your most obedient and
   Most humble servant,
   (Signed)          JOHN TURNBULL.

Guilford Street, 5th August 1805.

E. Cooke, Esq.
&c. &c. &c.



No. II.

Letter from the Secretary of the Transport Board to Dr. BUFFA.


Transport Office, 16th October 1805.

SIR,

I am directed by the Board to acquaint you, that a passage to
Gibraltar has been provided for yourself, Mrs. Buffa, your family and
brother-in-law, on board the Active transport; and that you may embark
on board that ship at Deptford immediately.

I am further directed to add, that it will be necessary for you to
find your own provisions.


    I am, Sir,
    Your most obedient servant,
    A. WHITEHEAD, Secretary.

    _To Dr. Buffa,
    &c. &c. &c._


No. III.

Extract of a Letter from JOHN TURNBULL, Esq. Chairman of the
Committee of Merchants trading to the Levant, &c. to Dr. BUFFA.

MY DEAR SIR,

On your arrival at Gibraltar, I was favoured with two letters from
you; but have not since had the pleasure of hearing from you. Nor have
I written to you, as, notwithstanding the unremitting endeavours, and
the constant attention, on every occasion, of His Royal Highness and
myself, it has not been in our power to do any thing effectual to
serve you. The Medical Board _continue to give all the opposition that
they possibly can_, and made a very unfavourable report, in
consequence of a strong representation that I made in your favour to
Mr. Windham.

London, 7th July 1806.



No. IV.

Extract of a Letter from JOHN ROSS, Esq. Acting
Consul General at Tangiers, to Dr. BUFFA.

Friday, 7th May 1806.

DEAR SIR,

I heard only to-day of your arrival at
Tetuan on your way to Larache, and this evening
received an express from Indy Mahamed Slawey,
Governor of that place, to request that, if I knew
you had been in this country, you would use
every possible endeavour to come to him at
Larache; and to accompany him to the Emperor
who wished to see you.

Let me therefore request your moving as quick
as possible to Larache direct from Tetuan, and
join him before he departs. Should you miss
him, he has left orders to his Lieutenant-governor
there, to forward you to Sidy immediately.




No. V.

Letter written to JOHN ROSS, Esq. Acting Consul General at Tangiers.


Larache, May 17th, 1806.

SIR,

His Excellency the Governor of this place having last evening received
a letter from the Emperor, inclosing a communication transmitted by
the French Consul, together with a note from Paris, His Excellency has
honoured me with both to peruse. Their contents were the most severe
philippics against England; our blessed government was represented the
most perfidious and treacherous in the world, and great art used to
excite distrust, and to produce a rupture with England. M. Talleyrand
informs His Imperial Majesty, by command, of the taking of Naples, and
the republic of Ragusa; that Bonaparte, for certain political reasons,
has thought it expedient to appoint Louis Bonaparte King of Holland;
and Joseph, his other brother, King of the Two Sicilies: that it was
Bonaparte's determination to exclude the English from every port in
Europe: that Ceuta should, as soon as an opportunity offers, be
occupied entirely by French troops; that Spain and Portugal would soon
become provinces of France, and that His Imperial Majesty could do no
better thing than to abandon the English, and make common cause with
France: that the French Consul was charged to demand five thousand
bullocks, as many horses and mules; wheat and barley for the French
forces: that an equivalent in territory should be given to the
Emperor, and a certain scheme submitted to the Court of Morocco highly
honourable and advantageous to Barbary.

I told His Excellency to be on his guard; for that, by art, Bonaparte
has enslaved, plundered, and overturned the continent of Europe: that
I could not help ridiculing the idea of exporting provisions and
cattle from Barbary: that Bonaparte might cause them to be exported by
air-balloons, but by no other means or conveyance, while England rules
the seas. I availed myself of this opportunity of delineating the
features of the Great Nation, and relating the acts and deeds of
Bonaparte at Alexandria, Acre, and Jaffa; which had the desired
effect. He then confidentially informed me, that the Emperor had
commanded him to reply to the French government as he deemed most
conducive to the interest and good of Barbary: that he should cut
matters short: that proper steps should be taken to defeat their
cabals and intrigues, and a watchful eye kept for the future on the
motions of the French Consul, and all his agents; and that I might
assure the British government, that his influence shall always be used
for the interests of the English. Upon which I thanked him, and told
him that the Emperor might always command my services, whenever he
deemed them necessary.

You will no longer apprehend the ascendancy of the French in this part
of the world, as it is all over with them; nor will they ever succeed
as long as this excellent Moorish Chief guides the councils of thee
Emperor.

I remain, with due respect,

SIR,

Your Most obedient servant,

JOHN BUFFA.

To John Ross, Esq.
Acting Consul General,                                '
Tangiers.

No. VI.

Letter from Captain STEWART, of His Majesty's
Ship Seahorse, to ----.


His Britannic Majesty's Frigate Seahorse, June 1806.

MOST  NOBLE AND EXCELLENT SIR,

Presuming on the great friendship between our royal masters, I have
sent an officer on shore to request of you, leave to purchase some
cattle, sheep, and fowls, for myself, my officers and crew, who have
been long cruizing without fresh provisions. He is authorized to draw
bills on the British government for the amount of the purchase, which
I will approve and sign.

The quantity of cattle we want, will be about twenty-five, of sheep
about eighteen, and of fowls about twelve dozen (besides some eggs and
vegetables), more or less, according to the price.

May the light of Heaven be shed upon you many years!


           I have the honour to be, with great respect,
                      Your most obedient humble servant,
                             JOHN STEWART, Captain.



No. VII.

    Letter from Lord COLLINGWOOD to His Excellency
               the Governor of Larache.

                           Ocean, off Cadiz, 8th July 1806.

MOST EXCELLENT GOVERNOR,

I have received the letter which Your Excellency directed to be wrote
by Dr. Buffa to one of my officers who sent to Larache for stock; and
I beg to express to you the great satisfaction I have in every
instance which demonstrates the friendship which is entertained, by
His Imperial Majesty, for the King of Great Britain, and his subjects;
and to assure Your Excellency, that, on my part, I shall always be
happy in every opportunity of shewing you, that the same sentiment of
friendship and kindness is felt by us towards the Moors.

I am much obliged to Your Excellency for the supplies of refreshment,
which you are pleased to offer to my ships, which may call at Larache.
And wishing you health,

I am,

Most excellent Governor,

Your friend and servant.

COLLINGWOOD.

To His Excellency

the Governor of Larache.



No. VIII.

Letter to the Right Honourable Lord COLLINGWOOD, &c. &c. &c.

Michanez, July 16th, 1808.

MY LORD,

I am instructed by His Excellency the Governor of Larache, and
principal minister of the Emperor of Morocco, to acknowledge the
receipt of your Lordship's letter, directed to him at Larache, of the
8th instant, and feel great satisfaction in being able thus to convey
His Excellency's assurance to your Lordship, that nothing shall be
wanting on his part to forward (which is verbatim what he directed me
to write) the interest of the English, as long as he shall retain any
influence with his royal master; that he has always felt great
pleasure in promoting the views and wishes of the late English Consul,
and shall ever continue the same.

He has represented to His Imperial Majesty the affair of the French
privateer, which was driven on shore near Tangiers, by one of your
Lordship's small vessels. His Excellency commands me to inform your
Lordship, that His Imperial Majesty highly approves of the noble and
generous conduct of the English on that occasion, and deprecates that
of the French, lamenting, that when the marauders landed on the
Moorish shore, his subjects did not put every Frenchman to death.

His Imperial Majesty greatly laments the undeserved treatment which
was offered near Tetuan to one of your Lordship's officers, by an
unworthy officer under the command of Governor Ash-Ash. His Imperial
Majesty, at His Excellency's representation, solicited by me, has
written, some time since, a letter to Ash-Ash, strictly enjoining and
commanding him to favour the interest of the English only, and not to
take any French part directly or indirectly, on pain of His Majesty's
eternal displeasure; the more so, as His Imperial Majesty's solicitude
and resolve is now to keep up that friendship and good understanding
which has hitherto been evinced on all occasions on the part of the
King of Britain, and His Imperial Majesty, who desires to be made
known to your Lordship his decided partiality to the English. His
Excellency wishes your Lordship health and prosperity.

I have the honour to be, my Lord,

Your Lordship's

Most obedient humble servant,

J. BUFFA.

    To His Excellency
    Lord Collingwood,
    &c. &c. &c.

    By order of Mahomed Abdalah Eslawee,
    Governor of Larache, and first Minister
    to the Emperor.



No. IX.

Translation of a Letter written by His Excellency the Governor of
Larache, And first Minister to the Emperor of Morocco, to the Right
Honourable Lord COLLINGWOOD.

Larache, July 27th, 1806.

His Imperial Majesty having been pleased to permit Doctor Buffa to
return to Gibraltar, and entertaining a great regard for him, on
account of the good he has done in Barbary, the Emperor has also been
pleased to testify the same in a letter written with his own hand, to
the King of Great Britain, strongly pressing His Majesty that the
Doctor may be permitted to attend him occasionally, and to reside upon
a fixed appointment at Gibraltar. In compliance with His Imperial
Majesty's wishes, I have now most earnestly to request that your
Lordship will be pleased to order him a sure and commodious conveyance
for Gibraltar, and to take in the presents he has received as a reward
for his merit, and for his good and steady conduct during his stay
with us. The Doctor carries with him the good wishes of all the Moors
attached to my Royal and Imperial Master; and I have the honour to
assure your Lordship, that he has daily exerted himself with me, and
lately with the Emperor, for the service of His Majesty's navy, and
for the garrison of Gibraltar.

On this account alone, I hope your Lordship will, as soon as possible,
afford him an opportunity of joining his family in safety.


             Health and prosperity.

                 (Signed)
         MAHOMED BEN ABDALAH ESLAWEE.



No. X.

Translation of a Letter, in the Arabic Language, from Sultan SOLYMAN
BEN MAHOMED, Emperor of Morocco, to His Majesty GEORGE the Third, King
of Great Britain, &c, &c, &c. &c.

In the name of God, the all-merciful and commiserating God; on whom is
our account, and whose support we acknowledge; for there is neither
creation, nor power, but that which proceeds from God, the high and
eternal God.

From the servant of God, the commander of the faithful in Mahomed,
upheld and supported by the grace of God, Solyman the son of Mahomed,
the son of Abd' Allah, the son of Ismael, Prince of Hassenie, ever
upheld by the power of God, Sultan of Fez, of Morocco, of Suze, of
Dea'ha, of Tafilet, and of Tuat, together with all the territories of
the Garban West.

                     /--------------\
                    /      L .S.     \
                   /   Solyman the    \
                  | Son  of  Mahommed, |
                  |      &c.  &c.      |
                  |    God illumine    |
                  |     and support    |
                   \       him,       /
                    \    &c. &c.     /
                     \--------------/

To our cherished, our dearly beloved brother (who is exalted by the
power of God), Sultan George the Third, Sultan of the territories of
the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, Duke of Mecklenberg,
Prince descended from the line or dynasty of the Emperors of Rome and
Palestine.

This premised, we inform you, that we continually make diligent and
friendly inquiry concerning you, desiring from our heart, that you may
be at all times surrounded by wealth and prosperity. We wish you to
increase in friendship with us, that our alliance may be stronger than
heretofore, even stronger than it was in the days of our ancestors,
whom God guard and protect. Now therefore we make known to you, that
your physician and servant Dr. Buffa has been in our royal presence,
which is exalted by the bounty of God; and we have been pleased with
his medical knowledge and diligent attention; and moreover with the
relief he hath given to us. We have therefore to entreat or to ask of
you, to give him your royal order to return to our neighbourhood, to
Gibraltar, well provided with all good and necessary medicines; that
he, residing at Gibraltar, may be ready to attend quickly on our royal
person, whenever we may stand in need of his medical assistance: we
trust you will therefore return him immediately without delay or
procrastination; seeing that he has been of essential service to us.
And we recommend you to exalt Dr. Buffa in your favour, and we will
always be your allies and friends. May you be ever surrounded by
wealth and prosperity! Peace be with you! The fourth day of the month
of Jumad Elute, in the year of the Hagira 1222, answering to
the fifth or sixth of July 1807.

Done into the English as literally as the incompatibility of the
idioms of the two languages would admit of, by JAMES GRAY JACKSON,
professor of African and Arabic languages.

Fenchurch Buildings, July 1807.



No. XI.


Translations from the Arabic. The first received the 18th January; the
latter, 6th July, 1808.


    In the name of God, from Mahomed Ben
    Abdalah Eslawee, Governor of Tetuan, Tangiers,
    and its dependencies, &c. &c. &c.


                To Doctor BUFFA.


Since your departure from us, we have not received any letter, nor
heard from you; so not having heard any thing of you, we are much
uneasy and concerned about you: for we love you. We are ordered by the
sacred commands of our Sultan, to require you will acquaint us how you
are, if any thing has happened you; and that you will return to us
with an answer to the sacred letter entrusted to you, with a fresh
supply of medicines, according to your promise.

We also request you will endeavour to obtain from the English
Government, two masts for a frigate, of forty-five feet each, which
you will cause to be sent by a frigate to Larache; and all the
expense which may occur, will be paid without fail. We hope you will
assist as much as possible in this business; and we wish you health,
prosperity, and a speedy return among us.

(Signed)

MAHOMED BEN ABDALAH ESLAWEE.

In the Year of the Hagira 1223.



No. XII.

The second Letter, prefaced as the former, to Doctor BUFFA.

We have continued to make incessant inquiries after you, but all to no
purpose. What has become, or befallen you, we know not; nothing, we
hope, very bad. We consider you a very good man, honest and
honourable; you cannot wilfully forfeit your sacred pledge, your
promise, your honour to return to us. We were afraid you were dead,
but we heard lately you are alive, and resident in London. Return then
to the presence of our great Sultan, and every thing you will
reasonably ask for your nation shall be granted to your nation, shall
be granted to you. The supplies shall be increased to Gibraltar, and
you will be treated as before, and, if possible, better still; for we
love you. Return then without fear to the presence of our great
Sultan, and prove yourself a true Englishman, by keeping your
promise. We wish you good health and prosperity.

(Signed)

MAHOMED BEN ABDALAH ESLAWEE.

Tetuan.

In the Year of the Hagira 1223.