The Project Gutenberg EBook of Index of the Project Gutenberg Works of Bayard Taylor, by Bayard Taylor This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. Title: Index of the Project Gutenberg Works of Bayard Taylor Author: Bayard Taylor Editor: David Widger Release Date: June 16, 2019 [EBook #59766] Language: English Character set encoding: UTF-8 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INDEX OF THE PG WORKS OF TAYLOR *** Produced by David Widger
| PROLOGUE. | |
| CHAPTER I. | THE CHASE. |
| CHAPTER II. | WHO SHALL HAVE THE BRUSH? |
| CHAPTER III. | MARY POTTER AND HER SON. |
| CHAPTER IV. | FORTUNE AND MISFORTUNE. |
| CHAPTER V. | GUESTS AT FAIRTHORN'S. |
| CHAPTER VI. | THE NEW GILBERT. |
| CHAPTER VII. | OLD KENNETT MEETING. |
| CHAPTER VIII. | AT DR. DEANE'S. |
| CHAPTER IX. | THE RAISING. |
| CHAPTER X. | THE RIVALS. |
| CHAPTER XI. | GUESTS AT POTTER'S. |
| CHAPTER XII. | THE EVENTS OF AN EVENING. |
| CHAPTER XIII. | TWO OLD MEN. |
| CHAPTER XIV. | DOUBTS AND SURMISES. |
| CHAPTER XV. | ALFRED BARTON BETWEEN TWO FIRES. |
| CHAPTER XVI. | MARTHA DEANE. |
| CHAPTER XVII. | CONSULTATIONS. |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | SANDY FLASH REAPPEARS. |
| CHAPTER XIX. | THE HUSKING FROLIC. |
| CHAPTER XX. | GILBERT ON THE ROAD TO CHESTER. |
| CHAPTER XXI. | ROGER REPAYS HIS MASTER. |
| CHAPTER XXII. | MARTHA DEANE TAKES A RESOLUTION. |
| CHAPTER XXIII. | A CROSS-EXAMINATION. |
| CHAPTER XXIV. | DEB. SMITH TAKES A RESOLUTION. |
| CHAPTER XXV. | TWO ATTEMPTS. |
| CHAPTER XXVI. | THE LAST OF SANDY FLASH. |
| CHAPTER XXVII. | GILBERT INDEPENDENT. |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. | MISS LAVENDER MAKES A GUESS. |
| CHAPTER XXIX. | MYSTERIOUS MOVEMENTS. |
| CHAPTER XXX. | THE FUNERAL. |
| CHAPTER XXXI. | THE WILL. |
| CHAPTER XXXII. | THE LOVERS. |
| CHAPTER XXXIII. | HUSBAND AND WIFE. |
| CHAPTER XXXIV. | THE WEDDING. |
|
Life in a Syrian Quarantine. Voyage from Alexandria to Beyrout--Landing at Quarantine--The Guardians--Our Quarters--Our Companions--Famine and Feasting--The Morning--The Holy Man of Timbuctoo--Sunday in Quarantine--Islamism--We are Registered--Love through a Grating--Trumpets--The Mystery Explained--Delights of Quarantine--Oriental vs. American Exaggeration--A Discussion of Politics--Our Release--Beyrout--Preparations for the Pilgrimage The Coast of Palestine. The Pilgrimage Commences--The Muleteers--The Mules--The Donkey--Journey to Sidon--The Foot of Lebanon--Pictures--The Ruins of Tyre--A Wild Morning--The Tyrian Surges--Climbing the Ladder of Tyre--Panorama of the Bay of Acre--The Plain of Esdraelon--Camp in a Garden--Acre--the Shore of the Bay--Haifa--Mount Carmel and its Monastery--A Deserted Coast--The Ruins of Cæsarea--The Scenery of Palestine--We become Robbers--El Haram--Wrecks--the Harbor and Town of Jaffa. From Jaffa to Jerusalem. The Garden of Jaffa--Breakfast at a Fountain--The Plain of Sharon--The Ruined Mosque of Ramleh--A Judean Landscape--The Streets Ramleh--Am I in Palestine?--A Heavenly Morning--The Land of Milk and Honey--Entering the Hill Country--The Pilgrim's Breakfast--The Father of Lies--A Church of the Crusaders--The Agriculture of the Hills--The Valley of Elah--Day-Dreams--The Wilderness--The Approach--We See the Holy City The Dead Sea and the River Jordan. Bargaining for a Guard---Departure from Jerusalem--The Hill of Offence--Bethany--The Grotto of Lazarus--The Valley of Fire--Scenery of the Wilderness--The Hills of Engaddi--The shore of the Dead Sea--A Bituminous Bath--Gallop to the Jordan--A watch for Robbers--The Jordan--Baptism--The Plains of Jericho--The Fountain of Elisha--The Mount of Temptation--Return to Jerusalem The City of Christ. Modern Jerusalem--The Site of the City--Mount Zion--Mount Moriah--The Temple--The Valley of Jehosaphat--The Olives of Gethsemane--The Mount of Olives--Moslem Tradition--Panorama from the Summit--The Interior of the City--The Population--Missions and Missionaries--Christianity in Jerusalem--Intolerance--The Jews of Jerusalem--The Face of Christ--The Church of the Holy Sepulchre--The Holy of Holies--The Sacred Localities--Visions of Christ--The Mosque of Omar--The Holy Man of Timbuctoo--Preparations for Departure. The Hill-Country of Palestine. Leaving Jerusalem--The Tombs of the Kings--El Bireh--The Hill-Country--First View of Mount Hermon--The Tomb of Joseph--Ebal and Gerizim--The Gardens of Nablous--The Samaritans--The Sacred Book--A Scene in the Synagogue--Mentor and Telemachus--Ride to Samaria--The Ruins of Sebaste--Scriptural Landscapes--Halt at Genin--The Plain of Esdraelon--Palestine and California--The Hills of Nazareth--Accident--Fra Joachim--The Church of the Virgin--The Shrine of the Annunciation--The Holy Places. The Country of Galilee. Departure from Nazareth--A Christian Guide--Ascent of Mount Tabor--Wallachian Hermits--The Panorama of Tabor--Ride to Tiberias--A Bath in Genesareth--The Flowers of Galilee--The Mount of Beatitude--Magdala--Joseph's Well--Meeting with a Turk--The Fountain of the Salt-Works--The Upper Valley of the Jordan--Summer Scenery--The Rivers of Lebanon--Tell el-Kadi--An Arcadian Region--The Fountains of Banias Crossing the Anti-Lebanon. The Harmless Guard--Cæsarea Philippi--The Valley of the Druses--The Sides of Mount Hermon--An Alarm--Threading a Defile--Distant view of Djebel Hauaran--Another Alarm--Camp at Katana--We Ride into Damascus Pictures of Damascus. Damascus from the Anti-Lebanon--Entering the City--A Diorama of Bazaars--An Oriental Hotel--Our Chamber--The Bazaars--Pipes and Coffee--The Rivers of Damascus--Palaces of the Jews--Jewish Ladies--A Christian Gentleman--The Sacred Localities--Damascus Blades--The Sword of Haroun Al-Raschid--An Arrival from Palmyra The Visions of Hasheesh. A Dissertation on Bathing and Bodies. Baalbec and Lebanon. Departure from Damascus--The Fountains of the Pharpar--Pass of the Anti-Lebanon--Adventure with the Druses--The Range of Lebanon--The Demon of Hasheesh departs--Impressions of Baalbec--The Temple of the Sun--Titanic Masonry--The Ruined Mosque--Camp on Lebanon--Rascality of the Guide--The Summit of Lebanon--The Sacred Cedars--The Christians of Lebanon--An Afternoon in Eden--Rugged Travel--We Reach the Coast--Return to Beyrout Pipes and Coffee Journey to Antioch and Aleppo. Change of Plans--Routes to Baghdad--Asia Minor--We sail from Beyrout--Yachting on the Syrian Coast--Tartus and Latakiyeh--The Coasts of Syria--The Bay of Suediah--The Mouth of the Orontes--Landing--The Garden of Syria--Ride to Antioch--The Modern City--The Plains of the Orontes--Remains of the Greek Empire--The Ancient Road--The Plain of Keftin--Approach to Aleppo. Life in Aleppo. Our Entry into Aleppo--We are conducted to a House--Our Unexpected Welcome--The Mystery Explained--Aleppo--Its Name--Its Situation--The Trade of Aleppo--The Christians--The Revolt of 1850--Present Appearance of the City--Visit to Osman Pasha--The Citadel--View from the Battlements--Society in Aleppo--Etiquette and Costume--Jewish Marriage Festivities--A Christian Marriage Procession--Ride around the Town--Nightingales--The Aleppo Button--A Hospital for Cats--Ferhat. Through the Syrian Gates. An Inauspicious Departure--The Ruined Church of St. Simon--The Plain of Antioch--A Turcoman Encampment--Climbing Akma Dagh--The Syrian Gates--Scanderoon--An American Captain--Revolt of the Koords--We take a Guard--The Field of Issus--The Robber-Chief, Kutchuk Ali--A Deserted Town--A Land of Gardens. Adana and Tarsus. The Black Gate--The Plain of Cilicia--A Koord Village--Missis--Cilician Scenery--Arrival at Adana--Three days in Quarantine--We receive Pratique--A Landscape--The Plain of Tarsus--The River Cydnus--A Vision of Cleopatra--Tarsus and its Environs--The Duniktash--The Moon of Ramazan. The Pass of Mount Taurus. We enter the Taurus--Turcomans--Forest Scenery--the Palace of Pan--Khan Mezarluk--Morning among the Mountains--The Gorge of the Cydnus--The Crag of the Fortress--The Cilician Grate--Deserted Forts--A Sublime Landscape--The Gorge of the Sihoon--The Second Gate--Camp in the Defile--Sunrise--Journey up the Sihoon--A Change of Scenery--A Pastoral Valley--Kolü Kushla--A Deserted Khan--A Guest in Ramazan--Flowers--The Plain of Karamania--Barren Hills--The Town of Eregli--The Hadji again The Plains of Karamania. The Plains of Karamania--Afternoon Heat--A Well--Volcanic Phenomena--Karamania--A Grand Ruined Khan--Moonlight Picture--A Landscape of the Plains--Mirages--A Short Interview--The Village of Ismil--Third Day on the Plains--Approach to Konia Scenes in Konia. Approach to Konia--Tomb of Hazret Mevlana--Lodgings in a Khan--An American Luxury--A Night-Scene in Ramazan--Prayers in the Mosque--Remains of the Ancient City--View from the Mosque--The Interior--A Leaning Minaret--The Diverting History of the Muleteers The Heart of Asia Minor. Scenery of the Hills--Ladik, the Ancient Laodicea--The Plague of Gad-Flies--Camp at Ilgün--A Natural Warm Bath--The Gad-Flies Again--A Summer Landscape--Ak-Sheher--The Base of Sultan Dagh--The Fountain of Midas--A Drowsy Journey--The Town of Bolawadün The Forests of Phrygia. The Frontier of Phrygia--Ancient Quarries and Tombs--We Enter the Pine Forests--A Guard-House--Encampments of the Turcomans--Pastoral Scenery--A Summer Village--The Valley of the Tombs--Rock Sepulchres of the Phrygian Kings--The Titan's Camp--The Valley of Kümbeh--A Land of Flowers--Turcoman Hospitality--The Exiled Effendis--The Old Turcoman--A Glimpse of Arcadia--A Landscape--Interested Friendship--The Valley of the Pursek--Arrival at Kiutahya Kiutahya, and the Ruins of Œzani. Entrance into Kiutahya--The New Khan--An Unpleasant Discovery--Kiutahya--The Citadel--Panorama from the Walls--The Gorge of the Mountains--Camp in a Meadow--The Valley of the Rhyndacus--Chavdür--The Ruins of Œzani--The Acropolis and Temple--The Theatre and Stadium--Ride down the Valley--Camp at Daghjköi The Mysian Olympus. Journey Down the Valley--The Plague of Grasshoppers--A Defile--The Town of Taushanlü--The Camp of Famine--We leave the Rhyndacus--The Base of Olympus--Primeval Forests--The Guard-House--Scenery of the Summit--Forests of Beech--Saw-Mills--Descent of the Mountain--The View of Olympus--Morning--The Land of Harvest--Aineghiöl--A Showery Ride--The Plain of Brousa--The Structure of Olympus--We reach Brousa--The Tent is Furled Brousa and the Sea of Marmora. The City of Brousa--Return to Civilization--Storm--The Kalputcha Hammam--A Hot Bath--A Foretaste of Paradise--The Streets and Bazaars of Brousa--The Mosque--The Tombs of the Ottoman Sultans--Disappearance of the Katurgees--We start for Moudania--The Sea of Marmora--Moudania--Passport Difficulties--A Greek Caïque--Breakfast with the Fishermen--A Torrid Voyage--The Princes' Islands--Prinkipo--Distant View of Constantinople--We enter the Golden Horn The Night of Predestination. Constantinople in Ramazan--The Origin of the Fast--Nightly Illuminations--The Night of Predestination--The Golden Horn at Night--Illumination of the Shores---The Cannon of Constantinople--A Fiery Panorama--The Sultan's Caïque--Close of the Celebration--A Turkish Mob--The Dancing Dervishes The Solemnities of Bairam. The Appearance of the New Moon--The Festival of Bairam--The Interior of the Seraglio--The Pomp of the Sultan's Court--Reschid Pasha--The Sultan's Dwarf--Arabian Stallions--The Imperial Guard--Appearance of the Sultan--The Inner Court--Return of the Procession--The Sultan on his Throne--The Homage of the Pashas--An Oriental Picture--Kissing the Scarf--The Shekh el-Islàm--The Descendant of the Caliphs--Bairam Commences The Mosques of Constantinople. Sojourn at Constantinople--Semi-European Character of the City--The Mosque--Procuring a Firman--The Seraglio--The Library--The Ancient Throne-Room--Admittance to St. Sophia--Magnificence of the Interior--The Marvellous Dome--The Mosque of Sultan Achmed--The Sulemanye--Great Conflagrations--Political Meaning of the Fires--Turkish Progress--Decay of the Ottoman Power Farewell to the Orient--Malta. Embarcation--Farewell to the Orient--Leaving Constantinople--A Wreck--The Dardanelles--Homeric Scenery--Smyrna Revisited--The Grecian Isles--Voyage to Malta--Detention--La Valetta--The Maltese--The Climate--A Boat for Sicily The Festival of St. Agatha. Departure from Malta--The Speronara--Our Fellow-Passengers--The First Night on Board--Sicily--Scarcity of Provisions--Beating in the Calabrian Channel--The Fourth Morning--The Gulf of Catania--A Sicilian Landscape--The Anchorage--The Suspected List--The Streets of Catania--Biography of St. Agatha--The Illuminations--The Procession of the Veil--The Biscari Palace--The Antiquities of Catania--The Convent of St. Nicola The Eruption of Mount Etna. The Mountain Threatens--The Signs Increase--We Leave Catania--Gardens Among the Lava--Etna Labors--Aci Reale--The Groans of Etna--The Eruption--Gigantic Tree of Smoke--Formation of the New Crater--We Lose Sight of the Mountain--Arrival at Messina--Etna is Obscured--Departure Gibraltar. Unwritten Links of Travel--Departure from Southampton--The Bay of Biscay--Cintra--Trafalgar--Gibraltar at Midnight--Landing--Search for a Palm-Tree--A Brilliant Morning--The Convexity of the Earth--Sun-Worship--The Rock Cadiz and Seville. Voyage to Cadiz--Landing--The City--Its Streets--The Women of Cadiz--Embarkation for Seville--Scenery of the Guadalquivir--Custom House Examination--The Guide--The Streets of Seville--The Giralda--The Cathedral of Seville--The Alcazar--Moorish Architecture--Pilate's House--Morning View from the Giralda--Old Wine--Murillos--My Last Evening in Seville Journey in a Spanish Diligence. Spanish Diligence Lines--Leaving Seville--An Unlucky Start--Alcalà of the Bakers--Dinner at Carmona--A Dehesa--The Mayoral and his Team--Ecija--Night Journey--Cordova--The Cathedral-Mosque--Moorish Architecture--The Sierra Morena--A Rainy Journey--A Chapter of Accidents--Baylen--The Fascination of Spain--Jaen--The Vega of Granada Granada and the Alhambra. Mateo Ximenez, the Younger--The Cathedral of Granada--A Monkish Miracle--Catholic Shrines--Military Cherubs--The Royal Chapel--The Tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella--Chapel of San Juan de Dios--The Albaycin--View of the Vega--The Generalife--The Alhambra--Torra de la Vela--The Walls and Towers--A Visit to Old Mateo--The Court of the Fishpond--The Halls of the Alhambra--Character of the Architecture-- Hall of the Abencerrages--Hall of the Two Sisters--The Moorish Dynasty in Spain The Bridle-Roads of Andalusia. Change of Weather--Napoleon and his Horses--Departure from Granada--My Guide, José Garcia--His Domestic Troubles--The Tragedy of the Umbrella--The Vow against Aguardiente--Crossing the Vega--The Sierra Nevada--The Baths of Alhama--"Woe is Me, Alhama!"--The Valley of the River Vélez--Vélez Malaga--The Coast Road--The Fisherman and his Donkey--Malaga--Summer Scenery--The Story of Don Pedro, without Fear and without Care--The Field of Monda--A Lonely Venta The Mountains of Fonda. Orange Valleys--Climbing the Mountains--José's Hospitality--El Burgo--The Gate of the Wind--The Cliff and Cascades of Ronda--The Mountain Region--Traces of the Moors--Haunts of Robbers--A Stormy Ride--The Inn at Gaucin--Bad News--A Boyish Auxiliary--Descent from the Mountains--The Ford of the Guadiaro--Our Fears Relieved--The Cork Woods--Ride from San Roque to Gibraltar--Parting with José--Travelling in Spain--Conclusion |
| CHAPTER I. | |
| A WINTER VOYAGE ON THE BALTIC | |
| Embarking at Lübeck—Put into a Hut—The Company on Board—Night on the Baltic—Ystad—A Life Lost—Stopped by Ice—A Gale—The Swedish Coast—Arrival at Dalarö—Conscientious Custom-House Officer | 13 |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| STOCKHOLM—PREPARATIONS FOR THE NORTH. | |
|
Departure in Sleds—A Meteor—Winter Scenery—Swedish
Post- Stations —View of Stockholm—Arrival—Stockholm Weather—Swedish Ignorance of the North—Funds—Equipment |
21 |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| FIRST EXPERIENCES OF NORTHERN TRAVEL. | |
|
A Swedish Diligence—Aspect of the Country—Upsala—A
Fellow- Passenger—The Northern Gods—Scenery—Churches—Peasant's
Houses—Arrival at Gefle—Förbud Papers—Speaking
Swedish —Daylight at Gefle—A Cold Italian—Experience of Skjuts and Förbud—We reach Snow—Night Travel—An Arabic Landlord—A Midnight Chase—Quarters at Bro—The Second Day—We reach Sundsvall |
27 |
| [Pg viii] | |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| A SLEIGH RIDE THROUGH NORRLAND. | |
| Sundsvall and the Norrlanders—Purchase Sleighs—Start again— Driving on the Ice—Breakfast at Fjäl—Twilight Hymn—Angermannland —A Bleak Day—Scenery of Norrland—Postillions—Increase of Cold —Dark Travel—The Norrland People—The Country and its Products —Northern Thanks—Umeå—The Inn at Innertafle | 39 |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| PROGRESS NORTHWARD—A STORM. | |
| Christmas Temperature—First Experience of intense Cold—Phenomena thereof—Arctic Travel—Splendour of the Scenery—The Northern Nature—Gross Appetites—My Nose and the Mercury Frozen—Dreary Travel—Skellefteå and its Temple—A Winter Storm—The Landlady at Abyn—Ploughing out—Travelling in a Tempest—Reach Piteå. | 50 |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| JOURNEY FROM PITEÅ TO HAPARANDA. | |
| Torment—Under the Aurora Borealis—A Dismal Night—Around the Bothnian Gulf—Forest Scenery—Månsbyn—The Suspicious Iron-Master —Brother Horton and the Cold—A Trial of Languages—Another Storm—New Year's Day—Entrance into Finland—The Finns—Haparanda | 62 |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| CROSSING THE ARCTIC CIRCLE. | |
| Medical Treatment—The Kind Fredrika—Morals in the North—Our Quarters at Haparanda—Vain Questions—Start for Lapland—Arctic Daylight—Campbell's Torneå—A Finnish Inn—Colours of the Arctic Sky—Approach to Avasaxa—Crossing the Arctic Circle—An Afternoon Sunset—Reception at Juoxengi | 72 |
| [Page ix] | |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| ADVENTURES AMONG THE FINNS. | |
| Journey up the Torneå—Wonders of the Winter Woods—Lapps and Reindeer—My Finnish Vocabulary—A Night Journey—Reception at Kengis—Continue the Journey—Finnish Sleds—A Hard Day—The Inn at Jokijalka—Its Inmates—Life in a Finnish Hut—An Arctic Picture—A Frozen Country—Kihlangi—A Polar Night—Parkajoki—We reach Muoniovara. | 83 |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| LIFE IN LAPLAND. | |
| Reception at Muoniovara—Mr. Wolley—Our Lapland Home—A Finnish Bath—Send for Reindeer—A Finnish House—Stables—The Reindeer Pulk—My first Attempt at driving Reindeer—Failure and Success —Muonioniska—View from the Hill—Fears of an old Finn—The Discovery of America—A Lapp Witch—Reindeer Accident | 98 |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| A REINDEER JOURNEY ACROSS LAPLAND. | |
|
Preparations for the Journey—Departure—A lazy Deer—"Long
Isaac"—An Auroral Spectacle—A Night at Palajoki—The
Table-Land of Lapland —Sagacity of the Deer—Driving a wild Reindeer—Polar Poetry— Lippajärvi—Picture of a Lapp—The Night—A Phantom Journey—The Track lost—A Lapp Encampment—Two Hours in a Lapp Tent—We start again—Descent into Norway—Heavy Travel—Lapp Hut in Siepe—A Fractious Reindeer—Drive to Kautokeino |
101 |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| KAUTOKEINO—A DAY WITHOUT A SUN. | |
|
Lapland Etiquette—The Inn—Quarters at the Länsman's—Situation
of Kautokeino—Climate—Life—Habits of the Population—Approach
of Sunrise—Church Service in Lapland—Cold Religion—Noonday
without Sunrise—The North and the South—A Vision—Visits
of the [Pg x]Lapps—Lars
Kaino—A Field for Portrait-painting—Character of the Lapp
Race— Their present Condition—The religious Outbreak at Kautokeino— Pastor Hvoslef—A Piano in Lapland—The Schools—Visit to a Gamme |
126 |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| THE RETURN TO MUONIOVARA. | |
|
Advantages of Lapp Costume—Turning Southward—Departure
from Kautokeino—A Lapp Hut—Religion—The Reindeer—Their
Qualities —Treatment by the Lapps—Annoyances of Reindeer
Travel— Endurance of Northern Girls—The Table-Land—The "Roof of the World"—Journey to Lippajärvi—Descent to the Muonio—Female Curiosity—The Return to Muoniovara—Prosaic Life of the Lapps—Modern Prudery |
141 |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| ABOUT THE FINNS. | |
| Change of Plans—Winter in Lapland—The Finns—Their Physical Appearance—Character—Drunkenness—A Spiritual Epidemic— Morality—Contradictory Customs—Family Names and Traditions —Apathy of Northern Life—The Polar Zone—Good Qualities of the Race—An English Naturalist | 154 |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| EXPERIENCES OF ARCTIC WEATHER. | |
|
Departure from Muoniovara—50° below Zero—A terrible
Day—An Arctic Night—Jokijalka again—Travelling down
the Torneå—A Night at Kardis—Increase of Daylight—Juoxengi—A
Struggle for Life— Difficulty of keeping awake—Frozen Noses—The Norseman's Hell—Freezing Travellers—Full Daylight again—Safe Arrival at Haparanda—Comfort—The Doctor's Welcome—Drive to Torneå—The Weather |
164 |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| INCIDENTS OF THE RETURN JOURNEY. | |
| Mild Weather!—Miraculous Scenery—Näsby—Swedish [Pg xi]Honesty —Adventures at Luleå—Northern Sleds—Piteå—Accident at Skellefteå—The Norrland Climate—A damp Swede—Travelling in a Tempest—A Norrland Inn—Character of the People—Their Houses | 177 |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| CONCLUSION OF THE ARCTIC TRIP. | |
| Warmth and Daylight—Swedish Linen—The Northern Women—Progress Southward—Quarrel with a Postillion—A Model Village—Rough Roads—Scarcity of Snow—Arrival at Stockholm—Remarks on Arctic Travel—Scale of Temperature—Record of Cold | 187 |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| LIFE IN STOCKHOLM. | |
| Stockholm—Its Position and Appearance—The Streets and Houses— Manner of Living—Swedish Diet—Stockholm in Spring—Swedish Gymnastics—A Grotesque Spectacle—Results of Gymnastics—Ling's System—The Swedish Language—Character of the Prose and Poetry— Songs—Life in Stockholm | 197 |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
| MANNERS AND MORALS OF STOCKHOLM. | |
| Hospitality of the Swedes—Northern Frenchmen—Stockholm Manners —Dress—Conventionalism—Taking off the Hat—Courtesy of the Swedish—An Anecdote—King Oscar—The Royal Family—Tendency to Detraction—The King's Illness—Morals of Stockholm—Illegitimate Births—Sham Morality—Causes of Immorality—Drunkenness—An Incident | 210 |
| CHAPTER XIX. | |
| JOURNEY TO GOTTENBURG AND COPENHAGEN. | |
| Appearance of Spring—Departure from Stockholm—The Gotha Canal —Vreta Kloster—Scenery of the Wener—European Ideas concerning America—A Democratic Nobleman—The Gotha River—Gottenburg—[Pg xii]The Giant's Pots—The Cattegat—Elsinore—The Sound Dues—Copenhagen and its Inhabitants—Thorwaldsen—Interview with Hans Christian Andersen—Goldschmidt—Prof. Rafn. | 222 |
| CHAPTER XX. | |
| RETURN TO THE NORTH.—CHRISTIANIA. | |
| Visit to Germany and England—The Steamer at Hull—The North Sea —Fellow-Passengers—Christiansand—The Coast of Norway—Arrival at Christiania—Preparations for Travelling—The Carriole—Progress of Christiania—Beauty of its Environs | 235 |
| CHAPTER XXI. | |
| INCIDENTS OF CARRIOLE TRAVEL. | |
| Disinterested Advice—Departure—Alarm—Descending the Hills—The Skyds System—Krogkleven—The King's View—Country and Country People—Summer Scenery—The Randsfjord—A Cow-Whale—The Miösen Lake—More than we bargained for—Astonishing Kindness—The Lake from a Steamer | 242 |
| CHAPTER XXII. | |
| GULDBRANDSDAL AND THE DOVRE FJELD. | |
|
Lillehammer—A Sabbath Morning—A Picture of Dahi—Guldbrandsdal
—Annoyances of Norwegian Travel—The Lougen River—Cataracts —The Station at Viik—Sinclair's Defeat—Pass of the Rusten—The Upper Valley—Scenery of the Dovre Fjeld—Solitude of the Mountains— Jerkin—Summit of the Fjeld—Nature in the North—Defile of the Driv—A Silent Country—Valley of the Orkla—Park Scenery—A Cunning Hostess—Solidity of Norwegian Women |
254 |
| CHAPTER XXIII. | |
| DRONTHEIM.—VOYAGE UP THE COAST OF NORWAY. | |
| Panorama of Drontheim—Its Streets and Houses—Quarters at the Hotel—Protestant High Mass—Norwegian Steamers—Parting View of —[Pg xiii]Drontheim—The Namsen Fjord—Settlements on the Coast—The Rock of Torghätten—The Seven Sisters—Singular Coast Scenery—The Horseman—Crossing the Arctic Circle—Coasting Craft—Bodö—An Arctic Sunset | 269 |
| CHAPTER XXIV. | |
| THE LOFODEN ISLES. | |
| Habits of the Arctic Summer—The Lofoden Islands—Mosköe—The Myth of the Maelström—The Lofoden Fishermen—Improvement in the People—Lofoden Scenery—The Rasksund—Disappearance of Daylight—Character of the Scenery—Tromsöe at Midnight | 281 |
| CHAPTER XXV. | |
| FINMARK AND HAMMERFEST. | |
| Visit to the Lapps—Scenery of Tromsdal—Phenomena of the Arctic Summer—The Lapp Gammes—A Herd of Reindeer—The Midnight Sun and its Effect—Scenery of the Alten Fjord—Pastor Hvoslef—Mr. Thomas and his Home—Altengaard—A Polar Bishop—An Excited Discussion—Whales—Appearance of Hammerfest—Fishy Quarters | 289 |
| CHAPTER XXVI. | |
| THE MIDNIGHT SUN. | |
| Plans of Travellers—Ship for the Varanger Fjord—Scenery of Mageröe—Miraculous Provision for human Life—Fisheries on the Coast—The Porsanger Fjord—Coast Scenery—Sværholtklub—Rousing the Sea Gulls—Picture of the Midnight Sun—Loss of a Night—The Church of the Lapps—Wonderful Rock-painting—Nordkyn | 300 |
| CHAPTER XXVII. | |
| THE VARANGER FJORD—ARCTIC LIFE. | |
| The Tana Fjord—Another Midnight—Desolation—Arctic Life—The Varanger Fjord—The Fort of Vardöhuus—Arrival at Vadsö—Summer there—More of the Lapps—Climate and Delights of Living—Rich [Pg xiv]Fishing—Jolly young Englishmen—Daylight Life—Its Effects, physical and Moral—Trees of Hammerfest—An astronomical Monument | 310 |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. | |
| THE RETURN TO DARKNESS—NORWEGIAN CHARACTER. | |
| Splendour of the Northern Coast Scenery—Growth of Vegetation —Government of the Lapps—Pastor Lamers and his Secession— Religion in the North—An intelligent Clergyman—Discussions on Board—Starlight and Lamp-light—Character of the Norwegians —Their national Vanity—Jealousy of Sweden | 321 |
| CHAPTER XXIX. | |
| DRONTHEIM AND BERGEN. | |
| Trouble at Drontheim—Valley of the Nid—The Lierfoss—Picture of Christiansund—Molde and Romsdal—The Vikings and their Descendants—The Rock of Hornelen—Rainy Bergen—A Group of Lepers—Norwegian Filth—Licentiousness—Picture of Bergen—Its Streets—Drunkenness—Days of Sunshine—Home-sick for Hammerfest —The Museum—Delays and dear Charges | 330 |
| CHAPTER XXX. | |
| A TRIP TO THE VÖRING-FOSS | |
|
Parting View of Bergen—Lovely Scenery—Interested Kindness—The
Roads of Norway—Uncomfortable Quarters—Voyage on the
Osterfjord —Bolstadören—Swindling Postillions—Arrival
at Vossevangen— Morning Scenery—Agriculture in Norway—Destruction
of the Forests —Descent to Vasenden—A Captain on Leave—Crossing
the Fjeld—The Shores of Ulvik—Hardanger Scenery—Angling
and Anglers—Pedar Halstensen—National Song of Norway—Sæbö—A
stupendous Defile— Ascent of the Fjeld—Plateau of the
Hardanger —The Vöring-Foss—Its Grandeur—A Sæter Hut—Wonderful Wine |
341 |
| [Pg xv] | |
| CHAPTER XXXI. | |
| SKETCHES FROM THE BERGENSTIFT. | |
| Peder's Embarrassment—His Drowning—The Landlady—Morning at Ulvik—A Norwegian Girl—Female Ugliness—Return to Vossevangen —Indolence—Detention at Stalheim—Scenery of the Naerödal— Postillions—On the Gudvangen Fjord—The Sogne Fjord—Transparency of the Water—The Boatmen | 359 |
| CHAPTER XXXII. | |
| HALLINGDAL—THE COUNTRY-PEOPLE OF NORWAY. | |
| Roads to Christiania—Southern Sunshine—Saltenaaset—The Church of Borgund—Top of the Fille Fjeld—Natives on Sunday—Peculiar Female Costume—Scarcity of Milk and Water—The Peak of Saaten—A Breakfast at Ekre—Hallingdal—Wages of Labourers—Valley Scenery —How Förbuds are sent—General Swindling—Character of the Norwegians for Honesty—Illustrations—Immorality—A "Cutty Sark" —Charms of Green | 370 |
| CHAPTER XXXIII. | |
| TELLEMARK AND THE RIUKAN-FOSS. | |
| The Silver Mines of Kongsberg—Roads in Tellemark—Bargaining for Horses—The Inn at Bolkesjö—Sleeping Admonitions—Smashing Travel—Tinoset—The Tind Lake—A Norwegian Farm-House—The Westfjord-dal and its Scenery—Ole Torgensen's Daughter—The Valley—A Leper—Defile of the Maan Elv—Picture of the Riukan-Foss —Its Beauty—A Twilight View—Supper at Ole's—The Comprehension of Man—A singular Ravine—Hitterdal—How respectable People live —The old Church—Return to Christiania | 383 |
| CHAPTER XXXIV. | |
| NORWAY AND SWEDEN. | |
| Norwegian Honesty—The Country People—Illicit Connections—The Icelandic Language—Professor Munck—The Storthing—The [Pg xvi]Norwegian Constitution—The Farmer-State—Conversation between a German Author and a Swedish Statesman—Gottenburg—A Fire—Swedish Honesty and Courtesy—The Falls of Trollhätten | 398 |
| CHAPTER XXXV. | |
| A TRAMP THROUGH WERMELAND AND DALECARLIA. | |
| Our Route—Leaving Carlstad—The Scenery—Valley of the Klar Elv —Ohlsäter—Wedding Arches—Asplund—A Night Journey—Adventures in search of a Bed—Entrance into Dalecarlia—The Farmers at Tyngsjö—Journey through the Woods—The People at Westerdal—The Landlord at Rågsveden—The Landlady—Dalecarlian Morality—A Läsare—The Postillion—Poverty—A Dalecarlian Boy—Reception at Kettbo—Nocturnal Conversation—Little Pehr—The female Postillion —The Läsare in Dalecarlia—View of Mora Valley | 407 |
| CHAPTER XXXVI. | |
| LAST DAYS IN THE NORTH. | |
| Mora Scenery—"The Parsonage of Mora"—The Magister—Peasants from Upper Elfdal—Scenery of the Siljan—Hymns on Board—Opinions of the Läsare—Their Increase—Conversation with the Peasants— Leksand—The Domprost Hvasser—Walk in the Garden—Dalecarlian Songs—Rainy Travel—Fahlun—Journey to Upsala—The Cholera—The Mound of Odin—Skål to the Gods—The End of Summer in Stockholm—Farewell to the North | 425 |
|
|
PAGE |
|
CHAPTER I. |
|
|
Sketch of Arabia; its Geographical Position and Ancient History |
|
|
CHAPTER II. |
|
|
Early Explorers of Arabia |
|
|
CHAPTER III. |
|
|
Niebuhr’s Travels in Yemen |
|
|
CHAPTER IV. |
|
|
Burckhardt’s Journey to Mecca and Medina |
|
|
CHAPTER V. |
|
|
Wellsted’s Explorations in Oman |
|
|
CHAPTER VI. |
|
|
Wellsted’s Discovery of an Ancient City in Hadramaut |
|
|
CHAPTER VII. |
|
|
Burton’s Pilgrimage |
|
|
Palgrave’s Travels in Central Arabia: from Palestine to the Djowf |
|
|
CHAPTER IX. |
|
|
Palgrave’s Travels—Residence in the Djowf |
|
|
CHAPTER X. |
|
|
Palgrave’s Travels—Crossing the Nefood |
|
|
CHAPTER XI. |
|
|
Palgrave’s Travels—Life in Ha’yel |
|
|
CHAPTER XII. |
|
|
Palgrave’s Travels—Journey to Bereydah |
|
|
CHAPTER XIII. |
|
|
Palgrave’s Travels—Journey to Ri’ad the Capital of Nedjed |
|
|
CHAPTER XIV. |
|
|
Palgrave’s Travels—Adventures in Ri’ad |
|
|
CHAPTER XV. |
|
|
Palgrave’s Travels—His Escape to the Eastern Coast |
|
|
CHAPTER XVI. |
|
|
Palgrave’s Travels—Eastern Arabia |
|
|
CHAPTER XVII. |
|
|
Lady Blunt’s pilgrimage to Nejd |
|
|
Night March In The Desert |
Frontispiece |
|
|
FACING PAGE |
|
The Coffee Hills of Yemen |
|
|
View of El-Medina |
|
|
A valley in Oman |
|
|
The ruins of Nakab El-Hadjar, in Hadramaut |
|
|
View of Medina from the West |
|
|
Camp at Mount Arafat |
|
|
Costume of Pilgrims to Mecca |
|
|
William Gifford Palgrave |
|
|
An Arab Chief |
|
|
Captain Burton as a Pilgrim |
|
|
The village of El-Suwayrkiyah |
|
|
An arab encampment |
|
|
Death on the desert |
| I. | Joseph |
| II. | Miss Blessing |
| III. | The Place and People |
| IV. | Miss Blessing calls on Rachel Miller |
| V. | Elwood's Evening, and Joseph's |
| VI. | In the Garden |
| VII. | The Blessing Family |
| VIII. | A Consultation |
| IX. | Joseph and his Friend |
| X. | Approaching Fate |
| XI. | A City Wedding |
| XII. | Clouds |
| XIII. | Presentiments |
| XIV. | The Amaranth |
| XV. | A Dinner Party |
| XVI. | Joseph's Trouble, and Philip's |
| XVII. | A Storm |
| XVIII. | On the Railroad Track |
| XIX. | The "Wharf-rat" |
| XX. | A Crisis |
| XXI. | Under the Water |
| XXII. | Kanuck |
| XXIII. | Julia's Experiment |
| XXIV. | Fate |
| XXV. | The Mourners |
| XXVI. | The Accusation |
| XXVII. | The Labels |
| XXVIII. | The Trial |
| XXIX. | New Evidence |
| XXX. | Mr. Blessing's Testimony |
| XXXI. | Beginning another Life |
| XXXII. | Lettersâ?"I. Joseph to Philip |
| XXXIII. | All are Happy |
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