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Title: An historical account of all the voyages round the world, performed by English navigators, vol. 3 of 4

Including those lately undertaken by order of His present Majesty. The whole faithfully extracted from the journals of the voyagers

Editor: David Henry

Release date: February 23, 2026 [eBook #78019]

Language: English

Original publication: London: F. Newbery, 1773

Credits: Raymond Papworth and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF ALL THE VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD, PERFORMED BY ENGLISH NAVIGATORS, VOL. 3 OF 4 ***
Chart of the Track of the Dolphin, Tamar, Swallow & Endeavour, through the South Seas, & of the Track of M. Bougainville, round the World.

# AN
HISTORICAL ACCOUNT
OF ALL THE
VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD,
PERFORMED BY
ENGLISH NAVIGATORS;

INCLUDING THOSE LATELY UNDERTAKEN
By Order of his Present MAJESTY.

THE WHOLE
Faithfully Extracted from the Journals of the
VOYAGERS.

Drake, | undertaken in 1577-80
Cavendish, | 1586-88
Cowley, | 1683-86
Dampier, | 1689-96
Cooke, | 1708-11
Rogers, | 1708-11
Clipperton and Shelvocke, | 1719-22
Anson, | 1740-44
Byron, | 1764-66
Wallis, | 1766-68
Carteret, | 1766-69
Cook, | 1768-71

TOGETHER WITH

That of Sydney Parkinson, Draftsman to Joseph Banks, Esq; who circumnavigated the Globe with Capt. Cook, in his Majesty’s Ship the Endeavour.

AND

The Voyage of Mons. Bougainville round the World, Performed by Order of the French King.

Illustrated with Maps, Charts, and Historical Prints.

In Four Volumes.

To which is added,

An APPENDIX. Containing the Journal of a Voyage to the North Pole, by the Hon. Commodore PHIPPS, and Captain LUTWIDGE.

VOLUME THE THIRD.

LONDON:

Printed for F. Newbery, the Corner of St. Paul’s Church-Yard.

M DCC LXXIII.

## Commodore BYRON’s
VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD,
In 1764, 1765, and 1766.

His present Majesty having formed a design of prosecuting the discovery of countries in the South Seas, was pleased, in the year 1764, to give orders for the carrying this design into execution: in consequence of which, the Dolphin ship of war and the Tamar frigate were fitted, manned, and victualled for this expedition.

Mr. Byron was commander in chief, and Captain Mouat had the honour of commanding the frigate under him. They sailed from the Downs on the 21st of June, 1764, but the Dolphin running a-ground, she was put into Plymouth Dock and examined: she had however sustained no injury, and on the 3d of July the Commodore hoisted his broad pendant, and sailed in prosecution of his voyage. On the 30th they anchored in the road of Fonchiale, at the island of Madeira; the Governor of which saluted the Captain with 11 guns, and the compliment was returned. They sailed on the 19th, and on the 21st were in sight of Palma, one of the Canary Islands. Their water having become foul and stinking, they purified 2it, by forcing a stream of air through it, by means of a kind of ventilator constructed for that purpose. On the 27th and 28th they saw the Canary Islands, and anchored in the bay of Port Praya on the 30th.⁠—Having taken in water, and purchased some fresh provisions, they sailed with all possible expedition, for fear of the tornadoes, which are very common on this coast from August till November.

Most of the crew had purchased monkies, lean goats, and fowls, in exchange for their old jackets, shirts, &c. It had been remarked before, and was now again observed, that no fish would come near the ship, which was attributed to her being sheathed with copper; this was a mortifying circumstance, as there were immense numbers of fish within sight.

On the 13th of September they came to an anchor in the road of Rio de Janeiro, on the coast of Brazil, when the Commodore paid a visit to the Governor, who received him in state, being attended by some persons of distinction, and having many officers, and a Captain’s guard under arms before the palace. Fifteen guns were fired in honour of the English flag; and the Governor afterwards returned the Commodore’s visit on board the Dolphin. Many of the people on board the Tamar being sick, lodgings were provided for them on shore, where they soon recovered; but the crew of the Dolphin kept their health, 3through the plentiful use of fresh meat and greens.

While the ship lay in this harbour, the Portuguese enticed away nine of the crew of the Tamar, and five from the Dolphin. The former were recovered, by a party sent after them in the night; but the Commodore could never learn where his men were secreted. This practice of kidnapping the English tars is here carried on with impunity; and when all other methods fail, the poor fellows are generally made drunk, and then sent up the country, till the ship to which they belong is sailed. They weighed anchor on the 16th of October, and on the 22d the Commodore informed the crew that they were not bound, as they thought, directly to the East Indies, but on a voyage to make discoveries; and that, on their behaving well, the Lords of the Admiralty had ordered them double pay, and other emoluments. They were transported with this news, declared their willingness to serve their country, and promised obedience to the orders of the Commodore. On the 29th they encountered so violent a storm, that they were obliged to throw four guns overboard: it continued very tempestuous all night, but dying away in the morning, they made sail, and, in 35 degrees 50 minutes south latitude, found the weather most intolerably cold, though it was now the latter end of October, and November in that climate answers 4to May in England. The sailors now repented the having bartered their old cloaths for eatables; but they were soon re-furnished with the slops that were on board.

The Commodore, on the 2d of November, delivered their commissions to his officers, after they had taken the customary oath. They now beheld vast numbers of pintadoes, and other birds, in flocks about the ship. Observing the colour of the water to be changed, they stood in for land on the 11th of this month, and found ground at the depth of 45 fathom. The next day the men on the forecastle called out, at the same instant, “Land right a-head.” The Commodore looked forward, and saw what he thought an island, composed of two hills, and land joining to it, which ran far to the south-east; but in the end this proved to be only a fog-bank, which vanished on a sudden. These deceptions are not unfrequent: not long since the master of a vessel made oath, that he had seen an island, and trees growing on it, between Newfoundland and the west coast of Ireland; in consequence of which some ships were sent in search of it, but it could never be found.

In the afternoon of the 13th the wind shifted, the sky grew black to windward, and a strange noise was heard, resembling the roaring of the sea on a shallow coast. Hundreds of birds were observed flying from the storm, 5and shrieking through dreadful apprehension. At length it reached the ship before she was prepared for it, and laid her on her side. The first Lieutenant was beat down by the main sheet, by which some of his teeth were knocked out, and he was otherwise terribly bruised. The main-sail of the Tamar was split; but as she was to leeward of the Dolphin, she had more time to prepare for the threatened storm. The wind continued violent all night, but abated in the morning, when the sea was observed to be covered with a small red fish, like cray-fish, great numbers of which were catched by the ship’s crew.

On the 16th they steered for Cape Blanco, shaping their course agreeable to the chart of it laid down in Anson’s Voyage. On the 17th they saw the Cape, and for two days struggled hard to reach Port Desire; but the description given of it in Narborough’s Voyage is so perplexed, that they were much at a loss. They stood into a bay south of the Cape, but could find no port. On the 20th they saw Penguin Island, and as Port Desire was said to be a few leagues north-west of it, a boat was sent out, which found it. In these seas there were thousands of seals and penguins near the ship. On the 21st they entered the harbour of Port Desire, and the Commodore in his boat, attended by two other boats, went to sound it. Mr. Byron landed, and found the country all one continued 6down, having neither shrubs or trees. They had a sight of four beasts, near 13 hands high, and in shape like a deer, which they took to be guanicoes. The Commodore having returned to his boat, went higher up the harbour, to an island abounding with seals, more than 50 of which they killed, some of them exceeding the size of an ordinary bullock. They likewise killed a variety of birds, one with a head like an eagle, with a large comb on it, and a white ruff, like a lady’s tippet, round the neck; the feathers on the back were black, and of a most exquisite polish; the legs were large and strong, with talons somewhat like the eagle; the wings being extended, measured no less than 12 feet from their extremities.

On the 21st the Tamar sailed into the harbour with the rising of the tide; but the Dolphin waiting for a wind, ran on shore, where she remained all night, and the next day, in very tempestuous weather. On the 23d they saw the track of a tyger, and several other beasts, and found a nest of ostriches eggs, which proved to be good eating. On the 24th the ships were both properly moored in the harbour, where the water rises no less than 27 feet at spring tides.

The Commodore went on shore this day, and shot a hare weighing 26 pounds, and saw several others as large as fawns. On the 25th he landed again, and found the barrel of an old 7musquet, with the King’s broad arrow on it, and an old oar of a singular form. The musquet-barrel was so decayed, that it would crumble to dust with the touch. These things, it is probable, were left by the crew of the Wager, or, possibly, by Sir John Narborough.

They here saw the remains of fires, but met with no inhabitants. The only vegetable they found was wild peas. They killed several wild ducks, and shot a ball through the body of a hare, which ran two miles before he dropped: the flesh of this animal is delicious, and as white as snow. Two old guanicoes and a fawn were killed by another party; and some of the former were seen of 300 weight.

The skull and bones of a man having been found, were brought on board; as was likewise a young guanicoe, which was very beautiful, and grew quite tame; but died in a short time. Happily, on the 27th, two springs of tolerable water were found; and on the next day a tun of it was brought on board. The Commodore went again on shore, where such an immense number of birds took flight, as actually darkened the sky, and it was impossible to walk without treading on their eggs. These eggs the men ate, though there were young birds in the greater part of them.

On the 30th some men being sent on shore for water, two of them, who first came to it, saw 8a tyger lying on the ground, who taking no kind of notice of them, they threw stones at him: still, however, they could not provoke his rage; he waited till the rest came up, and then walked leisurely off. The country near this bay abounds with geese, ducks, widgeon, and sea-pies, besides several birds, the names of which are unknown.

On the 5th of December the ships got under sail, and, during that and the following day, had pleasant weather and a fine gale. They now steered for Pepys’ Isle, which is described as lying in 47 degrees south latitude. The weather was now very clear, and the ships, by spreading from each other, could, between them, command a prospect of 20 leagues. They thus continued their search for this supposed island till the 11th of the month, when the Commodore, convinced that there was no such place, resolved to stand in for the main, to take in wood and water, which began to be much wanted.

Large whales now swam frequently about the ship, and birds flew round them in great numbers. On the 15th the wind blew a perfect hurricane, before which it would have been safest to have ran; but the fear of being driven too far from land, while they were in want of water, determined them to endeavour to weather it, which they did till it abated, which was at eight o’clock the next morning. On 9the 18th they saw land, which, like that near Port Desire, was of the downy kind without trees. They now observed porpoises, which were milk white, with black spots, pursuing the fish in the sea, of which there were great numbers.

On the 20th they ran close in shore to Cape Virgin Mary; and having observed a smoke on shore, and a number of guanicoes feeding in the vallies, they came to an anchor. The next day they again sailed, and at length anchored about two miles from the shore, near the place where they had seen smoke the preceding day. The Commodore observed a number of men on horse-back, riding to and fro, opposite the ship, and waving something white, which he took to be an invitation to land; and as he was anxious to know what people these were, he went in one boat with a party of men well armed; the first Lieutenant with a separate party following in another. When they came near the shore, they saw a great number of people on horseback, and some on foot, the whole amounting, as they judged, to five hundred; who were drawn up on a stony point of land that ran far into the sea. Though the Commodore did not observe that they had any weapons, he made signs for them to retreat a little, which they readily did, and kept shouting very loud while the crew were landing; which was no sooner done, than they were mustered on the beach, with their officers at their head.

10Mr. Byron now advanced alone, but as he approached, the Indians retreated; he therefore made signs, that one of them should come forward, which was complied with. The person who advanced appeared to be a chief, and was very near seven feet in heighth: round one of his eyes was a circle of black paint, and a white circle round the other; the rest of his face was painted in streaks of various colours. He had the skin of a beast, with the hair inwards, thrown over his shoulders. The Commodore and the Indian having complimented each other, in language equally unintelligible to either, they walked together towards the main body of the Indians, few of whom were shorter than the height abovementioned, and the women were large in proportion. Mr. Byron made signs for them to sit on the ground, which they did, chanting in a most serious and melancholy tone. The eyes of any one face were never painted with the same colours; some being white and red, some black and red, and some black and white: their teeth were white and even; they were all dressed much alike; but that some of them wore a sort of boots, having a spur of peaked wood fastened to each heel.

The Commodore having prevailed on some, who were still galloping about, to alight and sit down with the rest, he distributed some white and yellow beads among them, which they very 11gladly accepted. He then took a piece of ribband, and giving the end of it into the hands of the first Indian, he continued it to the next, and so on as they sat, to the end of the ribband. He then cut it with a pair of scissars between every two of them; and tied each man’s share round his head, which they did not attempt to remove. It was remarked, that though the presents were insufficient to supply them all, no one pressed forward from the station assigned him, nor seemed to envy the superior good fortune of his neighbour.

Commodore Byron Conversing with a Patagonian Woman.

Among these gigantic people, one woman, who was of the largest size, and most disagreebly painted, had her hair adorned with beads of blue grass, hanging, in two divisions, down before her shoulders; and she had bracelets of pale gold or brass, on her arms; but there was no learning how she obtained this finery. One of the men shewed Mr. Byron the bowl of a tobacco pipe, made of red earth, and made signs that he wanted some tobacco, none of which they had among them. On this the Commodore beckoned to the seamen, who still remained drawn up on the beach, three or four of whom instantly running forward, the Indians were alarmed, and jumping up in an instant, were preparing to retire, as it was supposed, to fetch their arms. Mr. Byron therefore ran and stopped the sailors, directing one of them only to come forward, when he had got all the tobacco 12they could muster among them. This restored peace, and all the Indians resumed their places, except an old man, who sung a long song to Mr. Byron; at nearly the conclusion of which Mr. Cumming, the first Lieutenant, brought the tobacco. This gentleman, tho’ six feet two inches high, was himself astonished at the diminutive figure he cut among the strangers, who were broad and muscular in proportion to their height. The Commodore having distributed the tobacco, they made signs for him to ride to their huts; but he intimated, that he must return to the ship; on which they sat down again, apparently much concerned. Their horses, though not large, were active, and much under command: their saddles were like an English pad, and the bridle was formed of a thong of leather, with the bit made of wood; they had no stirrups, and both men and women rode astride. When the Commodore left them they kept their seats, not once offering to follow him.

On the 21st of December they began sailing up the Streight of Magellan, with a view to take in a proper stock of wood and water, as the finding Falkland’s Islands was yet a matter of uncertainty. They remarked a single Indian on this shore, who waved his hand to them till he lost sight of the ship; they likewise saw several guanicoes on the hills. On the evening of the 22d six Indians came on the beach, hallooing, 13and making signs that they wished an acquaintance with the crew; but, as the seamen were fatigued, the Commodore would not send off a boat to them. On the 25th they saw a point of land near St. George’s Island, to which Mr. Byron gave the name of Porpois Point.

Having anchored at ten at night, the Commodore went the next morning in quest of wood and water, plenty of which they found on the point abovementioned. A fine level country lies over the point, the soil of which appeared to be very luxuriant, producing innumerable flowers of several kinds, the smell of which was extremely fragrant; there was also a plenty of good grass, among which grew peas that were then in blossom. They saw hundreds of painted geese, (so called from their beauty) which were feeding among this variety of sweets: they likewise found an abundance of plants, and wild celery in great quantities. Many Indian wigwams were seen, situated in the woods, near streams of water; these had been lately occupied, as the fires appeared but just burnt out. In a walk of twelve miles they saw no place proper for a boat to land, the sea breaking high on the shore. Mr. Byron returned in the evening, and found that some of the men had been shooting geese, teal, and snipes, while others had employed themselves, with equal success, in fishing: these employments indeed became necessary, as the men 14could have eaten thrice their allowance, owing to the keen air of the country.

On the 26th they steered for Port Famine, and came to an anchor, close to the shore, the next day at noon. In this place they found drift-wood enough to have supplied a thousand vessels. The Commodore went four miles up Sedger river, but could proceed no farther, the trees which had fallen across the stream impeding the boat’s way; one of the stumps of them having made a hole in her bottom, she was immediately filled with water: but they made shift to get her on shore, and stopped the leak, so as to return in her to the mouth of the river. The banks of this stream are furnished with the noblest trees, sufficient in number to supply masts for the whole navy of Great Britain. Some of these were so large, that four men joined hand in hand could not enclose them; and, among the rest, the pepper tree was found. These woods abound in parrots, and other beautiful birds. The quantity of fish that was daily taken was equal to the supply of both the crews; and the Commodore shot as many geese and ducks as furnished several tables besides his own.

While the ships lay at anchor here, Mr. Byron and a party went on shore; but being catched in a violent rain, they stopped where some Indians had left a fire, the wood of which was yet warm; and kindling a fire to dry their 15cloaths, another fire was instantly made on Terra del Fuego, the opposite shore, which they imagined to be a signal, on a supposition they were Indians. The hills were craggy, of an amazing height, and wholly covered with snow; but the plains were adorned with flowers, equal in fragrance and beauty to those in the gardens of England.

The Commodore having ordered a tent to be erected on the borders of a wood, and adjoining to a rivulet, three of the sailors were there stationed to wash linen, and they laid in the tent. One evening, soon after they had retired to rest, they were awakened by the deep and hollow roarings of some wild beasts, which came nearer them every moment. Terrified with apprehension, they made and kept up a blazing fire, round which the beasts walked at a small distance till the dawn of the morning, when they retired.

Near where the ships rode at anchor was a hill cleared of wood, which they imagined to have been a Spanish settlement, mention of which is made in Captain Wallis’s Voyage, as will be seen in the course of this work. Both ships having taken in sufficient wood and water by the 4th of January, 1765, they sailed at four o’clock in the morning, in quest of Falkland’s Islands; but the wind dying away, they were obliged to come to an anchor the day following.

16On Sunday the 6th they again made sail, and the Commodore, who had been twenty-four hours on deck, retired to sleep; but he was soon awakened by the vessel beating on a bank. Happily, at this instant, it was a perfect calm, so that the rising of the tide soon carried the ship safe off again. On the 8th the officer of the watch discovered that the head of the main-mast was sprung, which they supposed to have happened in a violent gale some time before; but effectual methods were immediately taken to repair the damage.

On the 12th they saw land, which was taken for De Wert’s Islands, and at the same time other land to the south, which was judged to be what is called New Islands in the charts. This land consists chiefly of mountainous and barren rocks, on which were great numbers of birds. Seals abound here, and large whales were seen spouting round the ship. On the 14th they saw a flat island, covered with tufts of grass as large as bushes; and on the following day the Commodore sent a boat from each ship, to examine an opening which had the appearance of an harbour; which being discovered, they stood in for it in the afternoon, and found it excellent beyond their most sanguine hopes. Soon after this they entered another harbour, to which Mr. Byron gave the name of Port Egmont, from the title of the nobleman at that time First Lord of the Admiralty. This harbour 17is represented to be the finest in the world, and capacious enough to contain the whole navy of England, in full security: there is plenty of fresh water in every part of it; and geese, ducks, snipes, and other edible birds, abound in such numbers, that the sailors were tired with eating them. The geese were knocked down with stones, so that it was no unusual thing for a boat to bring off sixty or seventy of those birds, without the necessity of shooting a single one. Seals and penguins abound here; sea lions of a prodigious size are found on the coast; and there is plenty of muscles, cockles, clams, and limpets. The woods produce sorrel and wild celery in great abundance.

The Commodore was once unexpectedly attacked by a sea lion, and extricated himself from the impending danger with great difficulty: they had many battles with this animal, the killing of one of which was frequently an hour’s work for six men; one of them almost tore to pieces the Commodore’s mastiff dog, by a single bite. The Master having been sent to sound the coast, four very fierce animals ran after the boat’s crew till they were up to their bellies in water; so that they were obliged to put from the shore, as they had no fire-arms in the boat. The next day, on the opposite shore, Mr. Byron and his company saw a sea lion of an enormous size; and the crew, being well armed, instantly engaged him. While they were thus 18employed, one of the other animals posted towards them; but a ball being lodged in his body, he was instantly dispatched. Five of these beasts were killed this day, in their attempts to seize the men, whom they always pursued the moment they got sight of them. They were of a mixed shape, between a wolf and a fox; most like the latter, but of the size of the former. They burrow in the ground like a fox, feed on seals and penguins, and are very numerous on the coast. The sailors, in order to be rid of such disagreeable companions, set fire to the grass, which burnt so rapidly, that the country was all in a blaze for some days, and these animals were seen running to seek shelter from its fury.

The Wolf Fox of Faulkland’s Islands.

While they lay in this harbour the crew breakfasted on portable soup and wild celery, thickened with oatmeal, which made a very nutritive mess. The soil of the island was a light clay under a black mould. The Commodore thinks this the same place which, in Cowley’s Voyage, is called Pepys’ Island; but he took possession of the harbour, and all the adjacent islands, by the name of Falkland’s Islands, for George the Third, King of Great Britain. It is to the honour of the Surgeon of the Tamar frigate, that during their stay there, he made a fence of turf near the watering-place, round a tract of land, which he planted with 19vegetables, for the use of those who may hereafter touch at this port.

On Sunday, January the 27th, they left Port Egmont, and the same day saw a remarkable head-land, which was named Cape Tamar; soon after which they passed a rock, which Mr. Byron called the Edistone, and then sailed between that and a head-land, to which he gave the name of Cape Dolphin. The distance from Cape Tamar to Cape Dolphin is about eight leagues, and, from its appearance, was called Carlisle Sound, though it is since known to be the northern entrance of the streight between the two principal islands. The land seen during the course of this day was all downs, having neither trees nor bushes, but large tufts of grass in various places.

Having anchored during the night, they sailed again the next day, when the Commodore gave the name of Berkley’s Sound to a deep sound between the islands. About four miles to the southward of the south point of this sound the sea breaks very high, on some rocks that appear above water. The coast now wore a dangerous aspect, rocks and breakers being at a considerable distance from the shore, and in all directions; and the country appeared barren and desolate. The sea now rising high, the Commodore sailed to the northward, to prevent being driven on a lee-shore. He imagines the whole 20circumference of Falkland’s Islands to be little less than 700 miles.

At eight in the evening they stood to the westward, and held their course till the 6th of February, when they saw, and stood in for, Port Desire, at the mouth of which they came to an anchor, and had the pleasure of seeing the Florida, a store-ship, which they had expected from England. On Thursday the Master of the store-ship went on board the Dolphin, and informed the Commodore of the extreme bad condition of his ship; on which it was resolved to attempt the unloading her in the harbour, though a place very ill calculated for the purpose. They therefore entered the harbour; but the night proving very tempestuous, the Tamar and the Florida both made signals of distress, having been driven from their moorings up the harbour. On this and the following night they were both saved from driving on shore; and as the store-ship was in constant danger of being lost, Mr. Byron sent hands on board to assist in repairing her, and resolved to take her with him into the Streight of Magellan before he unloaded her. In this harbour the rudder of the Dolphin was likewise repaired, there being no timber proper for making her a new one.

On the 13th the Florida put to sea, with orders to steer directly for Port Famine; and on the next day she was followed by the Dolphin and Tamar. The three following days they saw 21a strange vessel following them, which shaped her course, and sailed faster or slower, exactly as they did, a circumstance that caused much speculation. The Commodore being obliged to wait for the Florida, which was far a-stern, imagined the stranger would speak with him, and therefore made the necessary dispositions to give her a proper reception. When he came to an anchor the stranger did the same, four miles to windward of him; but in the morning she was seen three leagues to the leeward. She now got under way, and approached the Dolphin; on which the Commodore got eight guns, which were all that could be come at, to one side of the ship, as he lay at anchor. Neither party hoisted any colours; but about this time the store-ship running a-ground, the strange vessel hoisted French colours, and sent two boats, with an anchor, to assist her. The Commodore now sent a boat from each of his ships to the assistance of the Florida, with positive orders not to let the French boats board her; but to acknowledge, in a proper manner, the offer of assistance. These orders were obeyed, and the store-ship was got off.

They weighed anchor at six in the evening, and anchored again at eleven; at which time the French vessel did the same, but in a situation that shewed her ignorance of the channel they were in.

22On the 19th they again sailed; and as the French vessel steered after them, Mr. Byron thought they came from Falkland’s Islands, where there was then a French settlement, to take in wood, or that they were on a survey of the Streight of Magellan, in which they were now sailing. On the 20th they reached Port Famine, when the Dolphin and Tamar having taken as much provision out of the store-ship as they could find room for, the Master received orders to sail for England as soon as possible; it being determined to navigate the other ships through the Streight.

On the 25th they passed the French ship, which was in a small cove, and near her a large quantity of wood, which the Commodore had no doubt was intended for their new settlement. On Mr. Byron’s return to England this appeared to be the fact; and that the ship was commanded by Mons. Bougainville, and called the Eagle.

The rest of the account of their passage thro’ the Streight of Magellan, consists chiefly of the names of places, and descriptions of soundings, bearings and distances, which could not fail of proving unintelligible, if not disgusting, to the generality of readers. Whatever is really worth the notice of those who read either for instruction or entertainment, shall be faithfully recited in the following pages.

A Chart of the Straits of Magellan.

The mountains on both sides of the Streight are covered with snow from the top to the bottom; 23are steep and craggy, and of a most desolate appearance. On the 1st of March two or three canoes of Indians followed the ship, one of which went on board. This canoe was of bark, and wretchedly made: it contained some men, women, and a boy, who had bows and arrows, which they exchanged for beads and other trinkets: the cord of the bow was made of the gut of some beast dried, and the arrows were formed of a reed, pointed with a green stone. These people had no other garment than a seal skin thrown over their shoulders, and they made, on the whole, a most wretched appearance. When the ship came to an anchor, several of the Indians went on board, and gladly accepted some ribbands, beads, and other trifling matters, with which the Commodore presented them. These people subsist chiefly on muscles and berries, some of the latter of which they gave Mr. Byron, when he returned their visit on shore.

Having narrowly escaped the dreadful effects of a storm on the 3d of March, boats were repeatedly sent out till the 6th, in search of a proper place to anchor in; and at length the Dolphin was moored in a little bay opposite Cape Quod; and the Tamar, which could not work up so far, about six miles to the eastward of it. This part of the Streight being only four miles over, its appearance is dreary and desolate beyond imagination, owing to the prodigious mountains on each side of it, which rise above 24the clouds, and are covered with perpetual snow. On the 8th they met with a large number of shell-fish; and on this day the Commodore went up a deep lagoon under a rock, at the head of which was a fine fall of water, and on the east side of it several small coves, calculated for the secure reception of ships of the greatest burden.

On the 12th an officer was sent in a boat, in search of an harbour; and in two days he returned with an account, that there were five bays between the ship and Cape Upright, in any one of which they might anchor securely. While this officer was absent, he met with some Indians, who made him a present of a dog, and one of the women having a sucking child, offered to give it him! At this time winter commenced with all its severity, and the hills were soon covered with snow. The cold became so intense that the seamen, whose clothes were continually wet, suffered severely: to fortify them against this inclemency of weather, the Commodore gave a warm jacket of woollen stuff, called fearnought, to the crews of both ships, officers included.

On the 16th perceiving they lost ground on every tack, they came to an anchor; but finding the ground to be rocky, they weighed again, and every man on board was on deck the rest of the day and the whole night, during which time the rain poured down on them in unremitting torrents. Notwithstanding this incessant labour, 25they found, in the morning, that they had been only losing way, owing to the rapidity of the current. They were now glad to anchor in the very bay they had left two days before.

As it continued to rain and blow violently for two days longer, the Commodore sent a boat to sound the bay on the north shore; but no anchorage could be found. On the 20th the vessel was driven from her moorings, but by heaving up the bower-anchor, and carrying out another, they soon restored her to her situation. After labouring all day on the 21st, they had gained only two miles on the current, when they came to an anchor; but the sea running high, they sailed the day following; and the current now running to the westward, they made great way, and, in the evening, anchored in a commodious bay, where the Tamar had arrived before them. It is remarkable that, notwithstanding the late severity of the weather added to their incessant labour, the crew retained both health and spirits.

On the 23d they again set sail, and in a few hours had sight of the South Sea, which rolled a prodigious swell on them. On the 25th two boats which had been sent in search of anchoring-places, returned with an account, that they had found two, but neither of them very eligible; they, however, made sail the next morning, and at four in the afternoon found themselves within a mile of the south shore, which 26the thickness of the weather prevented their seeing sooner; but as there was no place to anchor in, they stood for the opposite shore. Between six and seven the Tamar was ordered under the stern of the Dolphin, and then directed to keep a-head of her during the night to show lights, and as often as she varied her tack to fire a gun. At seven in the evening the weather cleared for a minute, so that they had sight of the north-shore, bearing west by north, on which they instantly tacked-about. The wind now blew a perfect hurricane; the rain descended in torrents; some of the sails were torn to rags; and during this tempestuous night, in which the sea was continually breaking over them, the ships parted company, and were encompassed with rocks and breakers: however, they happily weathered the storm, and at seven in the morning both ships came to an anchor. They had now been twice within four leagues of Tuesday’s Bay, at the western mouth of the streight, and twice driven ten or twelve leagues back again by storms; so dangerous is the navigation of this streight at an improper season of the year.

On the 28th the Tamar narrowly escaped being dashed to pieces against the rocks, by the parting of the cable to her best bower-anchor. The Dolphin weighed anchor the next morning, and got under sail, which she had no sooner done, than signals of distress were made on 27board the Tamar, the anchor of which could not be purchased. The Dolphin, therefore, stood again into the bay, and sent her the proper assistance, after which they both anchored for the night; a night the most dreadful they had yet known. The winds were so violent as perfectly to tear up the sea, and carry it higher than the heads of the masts: a dreadful sea rolled over them, and broke against the rocks with a noise as loud as thunder. Happily, they did not part their cables, or they must have been dashed in pieces against these rocks.

On the following day (April 1st) it was almost a perfect calm; but in the evening it rained much, and the wind blew violently: they therefore remained in their station till the 4th, when the cutter, which had been sent in search of a proper anchoring-place, returned with an account, of having found such place to the west of the north-shore.

The officer who commanded the cutter had met with a party of Indians, whose canoe was of a construction not observed before, being composed of planks sewed together. These Indians had no covering but a piece of seal-skin thrown over their shoulders. Their food, which was of the most indelicate kind, was eaten raw: one of them tore a piece of stinking whale’s blubber with his teeth, and then gave it his companions, who followed his example. One 28of these Indians observing a sailor asleep, cut off a part of his jacket with a sharp flint.

The ships soon came to an anchor in the bay which had been discovered, proposing to take in wood and water. While they remained here, several of the natives made a fire opposite the ship; on which signals were made for them to come on board; but as they would not, the Commodore went on shore, and gave them some trifles, which pleased them highly; he likewise divided some biscuit among them, and was surprized to remark, that if a bit of it fell to the ground, not one of them would stoop to take it up without his permission: some of the sailors being at this time cutting grass for a few sheep which the Commodore had on board, the Indians instantly ran to their assistance, and tearing up the grass in large quantities, soon filled the boat. On Mr. Byron’s return, they followed in their canoe till they came near the ship, at which they gazed with the most profound astonishment. Four of them were at length prevailed on to go on board; and the Commodore, with a view to their diversion, directed one of the midshipmen to play on the violin, while some of the seamen danced; the poor Indians were extravagantly delighted; and one of them, to testify his gratitude, took his canoe, and fetching some red paint, rubbed it all over the face of the musician; nor could the Commodore, but with the utmost difficulty, 29escape the like compliment. When they had been diverted for some hours, it was hinted to them, that they should go on shore which they at length did, tho’ with evident reluctance.

They sailed from this bay on the 7th, and on the 8th again encountered very bad weather, as it rained and snowed, while the wind blew a hurricane. On the 9th they passed some dangerous rocks, which in Narborough’s Voyage are called the Judges, and on which the surf beats with prodigious violence. This day, contrary to expectation, a steady gale at south-west carried them at the rate of nine miles an hour, so that by eight in the evening they were 20 leagues from the coast on which they had encountered so many perils.

The Commodore recommends it to future navigators, to be at the eastern entrance of the Streight of Magellan in December; in which case he thinks even a fleet of ships might navigate it safely in about three weeks. He observes, that the facility with which wood and water are to be obtained; the vast plenty of vegetables on the coast, and the abundance of fish which may be almost every where procured, are advantages highly in favour of this passage. It is remarkable, that in seven weeks and two days, the time they were in passing it, not a single man was sick of the scurvy, or any other disorder.

30On the 26th they sailed westward, bearing away for the Island of Masafuero, which they were within seven leagues of the same evening. The next day they bore away for the north of the Island, and then lay by for the boats, which had been sent to sound the eastern side, but could not land for the violence of the surf. The boats returning, brought a number of fine fish, which had been catched with the hook and line: and the officer reporting, that he had found a bank where they might anchor, and opposite to which was plenty of fresh water; they made sail for this bank, on which they anchored at 7 o’clock on Sunday morning. The boats were now sent out for wood and water, their crews having put on cork-jackets, to assist them in swimming, and prevent their being bruised against the rocks. In these seas were a great number of very large sharks, which were frequently very near the swimmers; but they providential escaped them. One of these voracious fish seized a large seal close to one of the watering-boats, and devoured it in an instant; and the Commodore saw another do the same, close to the stern of the ship. The island abounds in goats, many of which were killed and sent on board, and they were deemed equal in flavour to the finest venison. One of the goats had his right ear slit, so as to make it evident that some person had caught him, given him that mark of distinction, and let him go 31again. Various sorts of excellent fish were now so plenty, that they could catch sufficient to supply the whole crew two days, in a few hours, with hook and line only.

The gunner and one of the seamen, who were, with others, on shore for water, were left behind all night, being afraid to venture in the boat, as the sea ran high. The Commodore being informed of this circumstance, sent them word, that as blowing weather might be expected, the ship might be driven from her moorings in the night, in which case they would infallibly be left behind. This message being delivered, the gunner swam to the boat; but the sailor saying, he had rather die a natural death than be drowned, refused to make the attempt; and taking a melancholy farewell of his companions, resolved to abide his fate; when, just as the boat was going to put off, a midshipman took the end of a rope in his hand, and swam on shore, where he remonstrated with the poor tar on the foolish resolution he had taken, till having an opportunity of throwing the rope, in which was a running knot, round his body, he called to the boat’s crew, who instantly dragged their companion on board, but he had swallowed so much water that he appeared to be dead. They recovered him, however, by holding up his heels, and on the day following he was perfectly well.

32The Commodore now made a promotion among the officers, he appointed captain Mouat, captain of the Dolphin under him, making Mr. Cumming, the first lieutenant of the Dolphin, captain of the Tamar, and advancing some other inferior officers.

They sailed on the 30th of April, steering in various directions till the 10th of May, on which, and the day following, they saw several dolphins and bonettas round the ship, and observed a few birds which had a short beak; all their bodies being white, except the back and the upper part of the wings. They saw several grampuses the next day, and more of the birds just mentioned; from whence they concluded, that they approached some land. Two remarkable birds, as large as geese, with white bodies and black legs, and which flew very high, were observed on the 16th, from whence it was conjectured, that they had passed some main-land, or islands. On the 22d they saw several tropic birds, and caught two bonettas; and on the 26th two large birds, the beak and neck of which were white, and all the rest black, flew about the ship. On the 28th two other birds, one black and white, and the other brown and white, would have settled on the yards, but were intimidated by the working of the ship. For several days after they saw great numbers of birds, and on the 7th of June they discovered land, being then in fourteen degrees 33five minutes south latitude, and 144 degrees 58 minutes west longitude.

The Commodore now steered for a small island, the appearance of which was pleasing beyond expression, being surrounded by a beach of fine white sand, and covered with lofty trees, which extending their shade to a considerable distance, and having no underwood, formed the most elegant groves that the imagination can paint an idea of. Several of the natives soon appeared, having long spears in their hands, who made large fires, which were answered by corresponding fires on an island to the windward. A boat was sent to look out for an anchoring-place, but none was to be found. At this time many of the best hands were confined to their hammocks with the scurvy; while those who were able to keep the deck, looked and languished for those re-invigorating delicacies which were unhappily beyond their reach. The shells of turtle were strewed along the shore, and they beheld numbers of cocoa-nuts, to the milk of which fruit the scurvy seldom fails to yield. The inhabitants of this island kept a-breast of the ship, dancing and shouting: they sometimes shook their spears, and then falling backwards, lay motionless, as if dead, which was understood to be a threat of destruction to such as should presume to land. They likewise fixed two spears in the sand, on the top of which were fastened some things which 34waved in the air: before these they kneeled, and appeared as if invoking the assistance of the Deity against the supposed invaders. The Commodore was tempted, from its very appearance, to sail round the island; while he was doing which, he again sent out boats to sound; on, which the natives made a most hideous out-cry; took up and balanced large stones in their hands, and pointed to their spears. The sailors, on the contrary, made every possible sign of friendship, throwing bread and other things on shore; which they would not touch, but retired to the woods, dragging their canoes after them. This being done, they ran into the water, watching as for an opportunity to drag the boat on shore. The seamen, irritated at this behaviour, would have fired on the Indians, but were restrained by command of the officer on board.

The crew of the boats having again reported, that no anchorage could be found, the Commodore proceeded to the other island, and on the next morning brought to, at three quarters of a mile from the shore. Several other islands were now seen, covered with the cocoa-nut-tree. The natives again ran to the beach, armed with clubs and spears, using threatening gestures. The Commodore fired a cannon-shot over their heads, on which they retreated to the woods. The boats having been again sent out, returned with an account, that no 35landing-place could be found; on which Mr. Byron named this paradise in appearance, the Islands of Disappointment. The natives are stout, and well made, very quick runners, and their complexion is that of the deep copper.

Having sailed on the 8th of June, they discovered an island on the day following, which laid low, and was covered with various kinds of trees, among which was the cocoa-nut; the island was surrounded with a rock of red coral. The inhabitants on the coast having made large fires, as supposed to alarm the more inland natives, they ran along the shore in multitudes, armed like those of the Islands of Disappointment. The vessels now brought to, at a small inlet, opening into a lake of salt water, which appeared more than two leagues wide. At this place was a little town, under the shade of a grove of cocoa-nut-trees. The ships advancing to the mouth of the inlet, some hundreds of the natives, headed by a kind of officer, who carried a pole, on which was fastened a piece of mat, ranged themselves up to the waists in water, making a hideous noise, till they were joined by a number of large canoes which came down the lake. At this time two boats were out in search of soundings, and the crews of them making every possible sign of friendship, some of the canoes drew towards them, not, indeed, as we hoped, with a peaceable intention, but with a view to haul the boats on 36shore: several of the natives, leaping from the rocks, swam to the boats; and one of them sprang into the Tamar’s boat, snatched up a seaman’s jacket, and instantly dived from the boat to the shore: another of them laid violent hands on a hat, but lost his prize through his ignorance, as he pulled it downwards, instead of lifting it from the head.

They now sailed westward, and soon discovered another island, distant four leagues. The natives pursued them in two large double canoes, in each of which were about thirty armed men. At this time the boats were at a considerable way to leeward of the ships, and were chaced by the canoes; on which the Commodore making a signal, the boats turned towards the Indians, who instantly pulled down their sails, and rowed away with great rapidity: they drove through the violent surf on the shore, and were followed by the boats; when, apprehending the invasion of their country, they armed themselves with stones and clubs; on which the boat’s crew fired, and killed two or three of them, one of whom died as he was throwing a stone at his enemy, after three balls had gone thro’ his body[1]. This poor fellow dropping close to the boats, his body was brought to the ship; but the Indians carried off the rest of their 37companions. The boats carried the two canoes with them, as the trophies of their scandalous victory. These vessels consisted of planks sewed together, with a strip of tortoiseshell fixed over each seam: they had sharp bottoms, and were very narrow; and two of them were fastened a-longside each other by two timbers, which left a space of full six feet between the canoes: a sail, made of neat matting, passed from one vessel to the other, being fixed to a mast which was hoisted in each of them: when they sail, several men sit on the timbers which lay from boat to boat: their cordage appeared to be formed of the outer covering of the cocoa-nut, and was exquisitely well made.

[1] Horrid, wanton murder!⁠—If discoveries are to be purchased at such a price, the southern hemisphere had better have remained unknown.

As no refreshments could be obtained, owing to the violence of the surf, the Commodore returned to his former station at the inlet, and again sent the boats in search of an anchoring-place. A number of the Indians were on the spot where he had left them, and were loading some large canoes, most probably to attack the boats; on which a shot was fired over their heads, and they instantly ran away and secreted themselves. The boats returned in the evening, with a few cocoa-nuts; and in the morning were sent out again, with all the invalids who were able to go in them. The Commodore went on shore this day, and saw many Indian huts, which were covered with the branches of the cocoa-nut-tree: they were mean buildings, but finely situated 38among groves of lofty trees. The men went naked; but some women were seen, who wore a kind of cloth from the waist to the knee. The shore abounded with coral, and the shells of large pearl oysters; and ’tis probable a valuable pearl-fishery might be established here. There were many dogs in the huts, who kept barking constantly till our adventurers went on board.

The next day the seamen found, in one of the huts, the carved head of a rudder, which had evidently belonged to a Dutch long boat: they likewise found a piece of brass, another of iron, and some iron tools; but by whom these things were left is wholly unknown.

The burial-places of the natives were under high trees, near their houses; and their tombs consisted of flat stones, laid on perpendicular side stones, like those in the church-yards of England. On the branches which shaded these repositories hung baskets of reeds, containing the heads and bones of turtle and other fish, and near the graves were several boxes filled with human bones.

The flies on this island were extremely troublesome, but no venomous creature was seen. Parrots and other birds were very plentiful, and they saw some beautiful doves, so tame as to follow them into the huts of the Indians. The water of the island is good, and the surface of the ground is almost covered with scurvy-grass. 39This part of the island is situated in 14 degrees 29 minutes south, and 148 degrees 50 minutes west.

On Wednesday, June the 12th, they sailed to another island, and as they coasted along it, the natives, armed as those of the other islands, kept even with the ship for some leagues. They frequently plunged into the sea, or fell on the sand, that the surf might break over them, to cool and refresh themselves. The boats being near the shore, the crew made signs that they were in want of water; on which the natives pointed farther along the shore, where, when the boats arrived, they saw a number of houses, and whither they were followed by the Indians, many more of whom joined them at this place. The boats having got close in shore, and the ships laying at a small distance, a venerable old man, with a white beard, advanced from the houses to the beach, attended by a young fellow. Having made a signal for the other Indians to retire, he came forward to the edge of the water, pressing his beard to his breast with one hand, and holding a branch of a tree in the other. He now made a kind of musical oration, during which the people in the boat threw him some trifling presents, which he would neither take up, nor permit his attendant to touch till he had finished his harangue, when he walked into the water, and throwing the branch to the boat’s crew, he retired, and picked 40up their presents. Most of the natives having complied with a sign made for them to lay down their arms, one of the Midshipmen swam ashore; on which they flocked round him, admiring his cloaths; as his waistcoat pleased them most he gave it to them, which he had no sooner done, than one of them untied his cravat and ran away with it. He now thought it time to retreat to the boat, whither several of the natives swam after him; some bringing each a cocoa-nut, and others fresh water in the nut-shell. The boat’s crew had taken with them some shells of the pearl oyster, in order to learn of the natives how to procure some pearls; but they could not possibly make them comprehend their meaning. This island is situated in 14 degrees 41 minutes south latitude, and 149 degrees 15 minutes west longitude; and both the islands the Commodore called King George’s Islands, in respect to his Sovereign. In a lake belonging to the last island, two or three very large vessels were seen, one of which had two masts, with proper cordage.

The boats having returned on board, they sailed westward the same day; and the next afternoon decried another island, towards which they immediately sailed, and found that it was well inhabited, and had a fine appearance of verdure; but that a violent surf broke all along the coast. It lies in 15 degrees south, and 151 41degrees 53 minutes west, and received the name of the Prince of Wales’s Island.

They now sailed northward. From the vast flocks of birds they had repeatedly seen, which always winged their way to the south, on the approach of evening; and from the islands being so well peopled, the Commodore concluded that there was a chain of islands leading to a continent, the discovery of which he would certainly have attempted, but the crews of both ships were so unhealthy, as to render it impossible for us to succeed.

On Monday, June the 17th, they concluded that land was near, from the multitudes of birds which flocked about the ship; but they saw no land till the 21st, when it was discovered at eight leagues distance, having the appearance of three islands, with rocks between them. These islands abounded with inhabitants, whose dwellings lined the coast; and the beauty and fertility of the soil, seemed to excel that of any place they had seen: but the rocks and breakers with which it was surrounded, were an insuperable bar to any attempt at landing. On the night of the 21st all hands were on deck, as it rained hard, and the wind blew violently. Soon after nine o’clock the Tamar fired a gun, and the crew of the Dolphin imagined they saw breakers to leeward; but it proved to be only the undulating reflection of the setting moon on the waters.

42On the 24th they discovered another island, which was named the Duke of York’s Island. A terrible sea breaks round the coast, but the place itself had a pleasing appearance. The boats landed with some difficulty, and brought off a large quantity of cocoa-nuts, which were a great relief to the sick. Thousands of sea-fowls were found sitting on their nests in high trees, and were so tame as to be easily knocked down, and there were great numbers of land-crabs on the ground. This island has a large lake in the midst of it, but has no inhabitants.

On the 29th they sailed northward, with a view to cross the equinoxial line, and then sail for the Ladrone Islands. On the 2d of July they discovered a low flat island, abounding with the cocoa-nut and other trees, and affording a most agreeable prospect. A great number of the natives were seen on the beach, many of whom, in above sixty canoes or proas, sailed, and formed a circle round the ships; which having surveyed for a considerable time, one of the Indians jumped out of his boat, swam to the ship, ran up its side in a moment, sat down on the deck, and began laughing most violently: he then ran about the ship, pilfering whatever he could lay hands on, which was taken from him as fast as stolen. This man having as many antic tricks as a monkey, was dressed in a jacket and trowsers, and afforded exquisite diversion. He devoured some biscuit with great eagerness, 43and having played the buffoon some time, made prize of his new dress, by jumping over the side of the ship, and swimming to his companions. Several others now swam to the ship, and running up the side to the gun-room ports, committed some petty theft, swimming off with their booty with surprising expedition. These Indians are of a bright copper, with regular and chearful features, and are tall and well made. Their hair, which is long and black, is either tied in three knots, or in a large bunch behind. Their ears were bored, and they certainly had worn heavy ornaments in them, as some of them were drawn down almost to their shoulders: their ornaments were shells strung together, and worn round the waist, wrist, and neck; but they were otherwise naked. One of them, who seemed to be of some rank, wore a string of human teeth round his waist. Some of them carried a long spear, the sides of which, for the length of three feet, were stuck with the teeth of the shark, which are as keen as a razor. Some cocoa-nuts being shewn them, and signs made that more were wanted, they endeavoured to steal those, instead of directing where more might be found.

The officers named this place Byron’s Island, in honour of the Commodore. It lies in 1 degree 18 minutes south latitude, and 173 degrees 46 minutes east longitude. They sailed from hence on the 3d of July, on the 21st of which month the men again grew ill of the scurvy, 44having eaten up all the cocoa-nuts, which are, perhaps, the best cure for this disorder in the world. Several of the people were also troubled with fluxes, owing to the extreme heat of the weather. On the 22d they sailed for the island of Tinian, being nearly in the latitude of that place; and six days afterwards they had sight of the islands Saypan, Tinian, and Aiguigan, which lie between two and three leagues from each other. At noon, on the 31st, they anchored at the south-west end of Tinian, in the situation where the Centurion had anchored with Commodore Anson. The water is so wonderfully clear at this place, that, though 144 feet deep, they could see the ground.

The Commodore went on shore, where he saw many huts, which had been left the preceding year by the Spaniards and Indians. Having chosen a spot on which to erect tents for the sick, Mr. Byron and his company, with prodigious difficulty, worked their way through the woods, in search of those elegant meadows and lawns, of which so enchanting a picture is given in Anson’s Voyage: but, to their unspeakable mortification, they found the lawns covered with reeds, in which their legs were entangled, and cut as with whipcord; and these reeds were, in some places, higher than their heads, and in none less than half that height. From head to foot they were covered with flies, which got down their throats as often as they 45opened their mouths. In this excursion they killed a bull, and then retiring to the tents, which had been erected in their absence, they sent a party to fetch home their prize.

The invalids having been brought on shore the preceding day, they, on the 1st of August, began clearing the well, which Mr. Byron supposes to be the same that the Centurion watered at; but he says the water was brackish, and full of worms. While they lay here the wind once drove in so violently from the west, that the ships were obliged to put to sea for a week, to avoid being dashed against the rocks. The armourer’s forge was brought on shore, to repair the iron-work of the ships; and the Commodore had a tent erected, as he was very ill of the scurvy. The crew recovered apace from the scurvy; but many of them were seized with fevers, of whom two died, being the first they had lost since they left England. The rains were violent, and almost perpetual; and the heat so intense, that the thermometer on board the ship generally stood at 86, only 9 degrees less than the heat of the blood at the human heart. Innumerable insects tormented them; and they were perpetually infested by musquitos in the night, and flies by day. The island swarms also with black ants, centipieds, and scorpions.

Parties were sent out to kill cattle, which, after being absent three days and nights, and killing a bullock, had seven or eight miles to drag 46it through the woods and lawns, and when it arrived, it was commonly fly-blown, and stunk intolerably: add to this, that the extreme toil of this duty brought on fevers, which confined the men to their tents. They killed poultry with ease; but the heat was so excessive, that it would turn green, and swarm with maggots, in less than an hour after it was killed. They killed wild hogs that weighed 200 pounds each, which afforded them their chief supply of fresh meat. A negro belonging to the Tamar contrived a method to ensnare these animals, so that they sent many on board alive, and were thus always certain of having fresh meat both in the ship and on shore.

A spot having been found where cattle were plentiful, a party was sent to kill them, having a tent erected for their use, and boats were sent daily to bring away what they killed: three of the crew of the Tamar were lost in this service, by the violent breaking of the sea upon the rocks. Bread was now baked every day for the use of the sick, and, upon the whole, they were well supplied with provisions.

The island of Saypan is not only larger, but pleasanter than Tinian. It is, in a great degree, covered with trees, and abounds with hogs and guanicoes. It is conjectured that the Spaniards, at stated periods, carry on a pearl-fishery at this island, as there were evident signs of people 47having been lately there, and large heaps of the oyster-shells were seen.

The Commodore remained at Tinian till the 30th of September, by which time the sick being tolerably well recovered, he weighed anchor, and stood to the northward. This island produces plenty of cotton and indigo, with cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, guavas, paupaus, sour oranges, and limes.

On the 18th of October several land-birds, apparently much fatigued, flew near the ship; one of which, of the size of a goose, rested on the booms: its legs and beak were black, but every other part white; and the beak was of a most monstrous length and thickness. On the 30th they saw a number of trees and bamboos floating near the vessel, which was then in 23 fathom water. On the 5th of November they came to an anchor off the Island of Timoan, on which Mr. Byron landed the day following. The inhabitants, who are Malays, no sooner saw the boat making for the shore, than many of them came to the beach, each having a dagger by his side, a spear in one hand, and a long knife in the other. The boat’s crew, however, made no hesitation to land, and bartered a few handkerchiefs for a goat, a kid, and a dozen of fowls.

The Malays are of a copper complexion, well made, but of small stature. They wore turbans on their heads, and pieces of cloth, fastened 48with a silver clasp, round the waist; but one old man among them was habited nearly in the Persian fashion. Their houses, which are raised on posts eight feet from the ground, are composed of the bamboo, slit, and are very neatly constructed. The island produces the cocoa-nut and cabbage-trees in great abundance, and there are some rice grounds on it. While the ships lay at anchor, some of the inhabitants brought a living animal on board, which had legs like that of a deer, with a body like a hare, which proved to be very fine eating. The crews catched large quantities of fish in this harbour, from whence they sailed on the 7th of the month.

Nothing worth notice happened till the 14th, when a sloop being seen at anchor in the harbour of an Island named Pulo Toupoa, Mr. Byron, having anchored in the same harbour, and observed that the vessel hoisted Dutch Colours, sent an officer on board her, who was received with great politeness, tea being immediately made for him and his attendants; but he could not make himself understood, the crew consisting entirely of Malays. This vessel, which was made of slit bamboo, had a piece of timber on each quarter, which served to steer her instead of a rudder.

The Commodore sailed the following day, and held his course till the 19th, when he spoke with an English Snow, bound from Bencoolen 49to Malacca and Bengal, in the East India Company’s service. At this time their biscuit was filled with worms and rotten, and their beef and pork was stinking. The master of the Snow being apprized of this circumference, sent Mr. Byron two gallons of arrack, a turtle, twelve fowls, and a sheep; which is supposed to have been the half of his stock, and for which he refused to accept the slightest return. They dropped their anchors this day in the road of Sumatra; and on the 27th, came to an anchor in that of Batavia.

Having anchored nearer the town on the following day, they fired eleven guns, which were returned; and an English ship from Bombay fired 13 guns in honour of the Commodore.

The Dutch Commodore sent his boat on board the Dolphin, under the command of his cockswain, who made but a shabby appearance. He put several questions to Mr. Byron respecting his voyage and destination, and took a book from his pocket to write down his answers, which Mr. Byron considering as an indignity, desired him instantly to leave the ship; which he did not think proper to hesitate at doing.

Mr. Byron visited the Dutch Commodore at his country-house, was received with great politeness, and told, that he might take a house in any part of the city, or be lodged at the hotel. Any inhabitant of Batavia permitting a stranger to sleep, though but for a single night, 50in his house, incurs a penalty of 500 dollars; the hotel being the only licensed lodging house, the Governor appoints the keeper of it, who at this time was a Frenchman. This hotel is the most superb building in the city, having more the air of a palace than an inn. All the streets of Batavia are well disposed, and having canals running through them, resemble the cities of Holland. The inhabitants are a motley herd of Dutch, Portuguese, Chinese, Persians, Moors, Malays, Javanese, &c. and their numbers are amazingly great. The Chinese live in a kind of separate town without the city walls, and deal very largely, having annually ten or twelve vessels laden from China. The roads, for several miles round the city, are very wide, and have a canal, shaded with trees, running by them, which is broad enough for the navigation of large vessels. Adjoining to this canal are the country-houses and gardens of the citizens.

The ships remained in this harbour till the 10th of December, when they sailed, being saluted with eleven guns by the fort, and thirteen by the Dutch Commodore. During their run from hence to Prince’s Island, in the Streight of Sunda, they were so abundantly supplied with turtle, by boats from the Java shore, that the common sailors subsisted wholly on that fish. They staid at Prince’s Island till the 19th, when they sailed for the Cape of Good Hope.

51On the 10th of February they saw a great smoke arising from a sandy beach, which they supposed to have been made by the Hottentots. On the 13th they came to an anchor, and the next morning the Governor sent his coach and six for the Commodore, and received him with great politeness, offering him the accommodations of the company’s house in the garden, and the use of his coach. The Cape is a fine country, situated in a healthy climate, and abounding with various kinds of refreshments. In a paddock adjoining the Company’s garden, which is extremely elegant, ostriches, zebras, and other curious birds and animals are constantly kept. The Commodore frequently gave his men permission to go on shore, and they as constantly returned⁠—drunk with the Cape wine.

They sailed on the 7th of March, and on the 25th crossed the equinoctial line. About this time an accident happening to the rudder of the Tamar, and it being impossible to make a perfect repair of it at sea, the Captain was ordered to bear away for Antigua; in consequence of which, they parted company on the first of April; and the Dolphin, without meeting with any other material occurrence, came to an anchor in the Downs on the 9th of May, 1766, after having been rather above twenty-two months in the circumnavigation of the globe.

52

## Captain WALLIS’s
VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD.

Samuel Wallis, Esq; having been appointed to the command of his Majesty’s ship the Dolphin, which was destined for a Voyage round the World, he sailed down the river on the 26th of July, and came to an anchor in Plymouth Sound on the 16th of August; three days after which he received sailing orders, and directions to take under his command the Swallow sloop, and Prince Frederick store-ship. These vessels sailed on the 22d, and on the 7th of September, in the evening, came to an anchor in the road of Madeira. The next morning Captain Wallis saluted the Governor with 13 guns, and the compliment was returned with an equal number.

They sailed thence on the 12th, after having taken in beef, wine, and onions, as sea-stores. On the 16th, as they were sailing off the Island of Palma, at the rate of eight miles an hour, the wind suddenly died away, so that the vessels lay quite still. On the 20th they catched several bonettas, out of a great number which surrounded the ship; and this day they saw some herons flying to the eastward. The Swallow, which was a bad sailer, parted from the other vessels, in the night between the 21st and 22d, but she joined 53company again on the 24th, within six leagues of the Isle of May. This day the three vessels came to an anchor in Port Praya, in the above-mentioned island; and the next morning they obtained leave from the commanding officer at the fort, to get water and other necessaries. This being the sickly season there, and the small-pox being very fatal, the Captain detained every man on board who had not had that distemper.

They here catched great quantities of fish, and having procured cattle and water, and found some wild purslain that was very refreshing, they sailed on the 28th; and, in the night, saw the burning mountain on the peak of Fuego. Captain Wallis now ordered every man to be furnished with hook and line, that he might supply himself with fish; and likewise, to prevent infection, commanded that no man should keep his fish above twenty-four hours. On the 20th they began to serve the crews with oil, all the butter and cheese being consumed; and orders were issued, that, during the remainder of the voyage, they should be served with vinegar and mustard once a fortnight. On the 22d they judged that they were within 60 degrees of land, from the sight of a great number of birds. Two days after this orders were given for serving the men with brandy, the wine being reserved for those that were ill. On the 27th the Prince Frederick sprung a leak, and her crew were at this time so sickly, through the fatigue of 54pumping, and the badness of their provisions, that her commander, Lieut. Brine, was apprehensive he could not keep company much longer, except some assistance could be given him. The Captain sent a carpenter and six sailors on board, but he was unable to supply her with better provisions. As the carpenter found he could do little toward stopping the leak in the store-ship, the Dolphin and Swallow compleated their provisions from her stores, and put on board her the empty oil jars, staves, and iron hoops.

By the 12th of November they were in 30 degrees of south latitude, when they found the weather so cold as to have recourse to their thick jackets. On the 19th, at eight o’clock at night, they saw a meteor, which flew horizontally from north-east to south-west, leaving a train of light, which made it as bright as at mid-day on the deck. From the 20th to the 22d they saw whales, seals; snipes, plover, and other birds, and some butterflies. On the 8th of December they saw land, and on the 9th remarked, that the sea appeared coloured, by the immense quantities of red shrimps that surrounded the ship.

On the 16th, being very near Cape Virgin Mary, they saw several men riding on the shore, who made signs for them to land. Having come to an anchor, they observed that the natives remained opposite the ship all night, shouting aloud, and keeping up large fires. In the morning the Captain went on shore, with a boat’s 55crew from each ship, and having made signs for the Indians to sit down, he gave them combs, buttons, knives, scissars, beads, &c. and pleased the women greatly by the distribution of some ribbands. He then intimated that he should be glad to accept some guanicoes and ostriches, in exchange for bill-hooks and hatchets, which he shewed them; but they were either really or designedly ignorant of his meaning. The tallest among these people was six feet seven inches, several others were from one to two inches shorter; but the general height was from five feet ten to six feet. They were muscular and well made, but their hands and feet very small, in proportion to the rest of their bodies. They were dressed in the skin of the guanico, with the hairy side to their bodies; and some of them wore a square piece of cloth, made of the hair of the guanico, and a hole being cut to admit the head through, it reached down to the knees: they wore likewise a kind of buskin from the middle of the leg to the instep, which was also conveyed under the heel, but the rest of the foot was bare: their hair, which was strait and coarse, was tied back with a cotton string; and their complexion was the dark copper. They rode on horses about fourteen hands high, and had dogs of the Spanish kind; both men and women rode astride, and the men were furnished with wooden spurs: some of the men had their arms painted, the faces of others were variously marked, and others 56again had the left eye enclosed by a painted circle. Their arms were two round stones, enclosed with leather, one of which was fastened at each end of a string eight feet in length: and one stone being held in the hand, the other was swung round the head with great force for some time, and then discharged at any mark they chose to strike. They likewise catch guanicoes and ostriches by means of this cord, which is thrown so, that the weight twists round and hampers the legs of the intended prey. Some of them were observed to devour the paunch of an ostrich raw, having only turned the inside outwards, and shook off some of the filth.

These people, who are great talkers, were often heard to say Ca-pi-ta-ne, on which they were successively addressed in Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch, and French; but they had no knowledge of either of those languages. When they shook hands with any of the crew, they always said chevow; and they were amazingly ready in learning English words, and pronounced the sentence “Englishmen come on shore” with great facility.

As they seemed desirous of going on board, the Captain took eight of them into the boats, on which they instantly began singing for joy; but when they came into the ship, they expressed no kind of surprize at the novelties they beheld, till a looking glass being observed, they acted many antic gestures before it, occasionally 57walking to and from it, talking with earnestness, and laughing immoderately. They would drink nothing but water, but they eagerly ate every article of the ship’s provisions. They were highly pleased with some turkies and guinea-hens which were on board, nor did the hogs and sheep escape their attention. One of them making signs that he should be glad of some cloaths, the Captain gave him a pair of shoes and buckles, and presented the rest with a little bag each, in which he put new six-pences and halfpence, with a ribband passed through a hole in them, to hang round their necks: the remaining contents of the bag were, a looking-glass, a comb, some beads, a knife, a pair of scissars, some twine, and a few slips of cloth: being offered some tobacco, they smoked a few minutes, but did not seem to like it. The marines being exercised before them, they were terrified at the firing of the muskets, and one of them falling down, shut his eyes, and lay without motion, as if to intimate that he knew the destructive nature of those weapons.

It was with difficulty that they were at length prevailed on to go on shore; and one of them would not leave the ship till he had sung a long kind of prayer, and even petitioned to stay till evening, by pointing to the sun, and then moving his hand round to the western horizon. As soon as they were in the boat they began to sing, and did not cease till they reached the shore, 58where many of their companions pressed eagerly to be taken into the boat, and were highly affronted at being refused.

This day they turned into the Streight of Magellan with the flood-tide, and saw many people on horseback hunting the guanicoes, which ran up the country with prodigious swiftness. The natives lighted fires opposite the ships, and in the morning about 400 of them, with their horses feeding near them, were observed in a valley. This being the spot where Mr. Byron saw the Patagonians, some officers were sent towards the shore, but with orders not to land, as the ships were too far off to assist them in case of necessity. When they came near the land, many of the natives flocked towards them, among whom were women and children, and some of the very men they had seen the preceding day: these waded towards the boat, frequently calling out, “Englishmen come on shore;” and were with difficulty restrained from getting into the boat, when they found the crews would not land. Some bread, tobacco, and toys were distributed, but not an article of provisions could be obtained in return.

On the 23d the tide was so violent, that the ships were driven three several ways; but in the evening they were safely anchored. On Christmas-day they procured a quantity of celery from Elizabeth Island, which being boiled with portable soup and wheat, the crews breakfasted 59on it several days. Many huts were found on this island, and two dogs were seen; but the Indians had quitted it for the present. Many high mountains were observed, which, though it was then the midst of summer, were, in a great degree, covered with snow.

On the 26th they anchored in Port Famine Bay, and the sick were sent on shore, where a tent was erected for their reception, as was another for the accommodation of the sail-makers, and those who landed to get wood. On the 28th the empty water-casks were landed; and on this day great quantities of fish were catched, among which were smelts. When they arrived here, many of the people were very bad with the scurvy; but by the plentiful use of vegetables, and bathing in the sea, they all recovered in a very short time.

All hands were now employed in repairing and storeing the ships; and thousands of young trees were carefully taken up with the mould about them, to be carried to Falkland’s Islands, which produce no timber.

On the 17th of January, 1765, the Master of the Dolphin, who had been in search of anchoring-places, returned with an account, that he had found such as were proper for the purpose; and this day the Prince Frederick sailed for Falkland’s Islands.

They sailed on the 18th, and came to an anchor the next day, half a mile from the shore, 60opposite a current of fresh water, that falls rapidly from the mountains. As a more convenient anchoring-place, and at the same time better adapted for procuring wood and water, had been discovered, they sailed again the next day, and, on the 23d, came to an anchor in the bay near Cape Gallant, where they catched wild ducks in such numbers, as to afford them a very seasonable relief. Near this spot are very high mountains, one of which was climbed by the Master of the Swallow, with the hope of getting a view of the South Sea; but being disappointed in his expectation, he erected a pyramid, and having written the ship’s name and the date of the year, he left the same, with a shilling within the structure.

On the 24th they saw an animal that was as swift as a deer, and had a cloven foot; but in other respects it was like an ass. Near this spot the country has a most forbidding aspect:⁠—the mountains on both sides of the Streight are of a stupendous height; the lower parts of them are covered with trees, above which a space is occupied by withered shrubs; higher up are fragments of broken rock, and heaps of snow; and the tops are totally rude, naked, and desolate.

On the evening of the 28th they saw a great smoke on the southern shore, and another on Prince Rupert’s Island; and the next morning some people being sent on shore for water, they had no sooner landed, than several of the natives 61came off in three canoes; and, having advanced towards the sailors, made signs of friendship, which being answered to their wish, they shouted aloud, and the English shouted in return. When the Indians came up they were eating the flesh of seals raw, and were covered with the skins, which stunk intolerably. They had bows, arrows, and javelins, the two last of which were pointed with flint. These people were rather low of stature, the tallest of them not exceeding five feet six inches, and their complexion was the deep copper colour.

Three of these people being taken on board the Dolphin, they ate whatever food was offered them; but, like the Patagonians, would drink only water:⁠—like them too, they were highly diverted with a looking-glass, in which they at first looked with astonishment, till, having become a little more familiar with it, they smiled at its effect; and finding a corresponding smile from the figure in the glass, they burst into most immoderate fits of laughter.

The Captain going on shore with them, presented some trinkets to their wives and children, and received some of their arms, and pieces of mundic, of the kind found in the tin mines of Cornwall. These Indians went off in canoes, the sails of which were made of the seal-skin.

The ships sailed on the 3d of February, and came to an anchor in York Road on the same day. The next morning Captain Wallis, with 62a party, went on shore near Batchelor’s River, and saw many Indian huts, and several dogs, which ran away the moment they were noticed: they likewise saw ostriches, and collected various kinds of fish and vegetables. There is a cataract near this river, the noise of which is tremendous, as it falls more than 400 yards, partly ever a very steep descent, and partly in a perpendicular line.

They sailed on the 14th, and came to anchor again the same day in York Road, after having lost ground by the contrary winds. The next morning they were driven with such violence by the current, as to be in momentary expectation of being dashed against the rocks, from which they were frequently not half the length of the ship; but they were providentially preserved, and came to an anchor in Butler’s Bay, which was so called from the name of one of the mates, who discovered it. They kept this station till the 20th, when they encountered a most violent storm, attended with hail and rain, which increased till the evening, the sea breaking over the forecastle upon the quarter-deck; yet, as the cables did not part, they were again wonderfully preserved from destruction. They remained here eight days, taking in wood and water, and repairing the little damage the ship had sustained in the storm. They catched fish of various kinds, among which were muscles near six inches in length; and procured plenty 63of vegetables. The mountains in this neighbourhood had the most rugged and desolate appearance; but their height could not be ascertained, as their heads were lost in the clouds; and some of them, on the southern shore, were so exceedingly desolate, as not to produce even a single blade of grass; while the vallies were equally barren, and almost covered with snow.

On the 1st of March they sailed again, and anchored on the same day in a bay which they called Lion’s Cove, from whence they sailed on Monday; and on the five following days encountered such terrible weather, that they had no prospect before them but that of immediate destruction: and the crew on board the Dolphin were so prepossessed that the Swallow could not ride out the storm, that they imagined they saw some of her hands coming over the rocks towards them.

The storm at length subsided; but the weather being intensely cold, each of the men was furnished with a thick jacket, made of the woollen stuff called Fearnought. During a week which they remained at this place, they were at two-thirds allowance, brandy excepted.

On the 15th both ships were safely anchored in a place called Swallow Harbour, from whence they sailed the next morning; and on the following day the Swallow, being driven among breakers, made signals of distress; but she was happily relieved by a breeze from the shore.

64This day the waves ran high, and there was so thick a fog, that they narrowly escaped shipwreck among a number of small islands; but the weather clearing up a little in the afternoon, they came safely to an anchor in a bay under Cape Upright.

On the 19th two canoes, having on board several Indians, came a-longside the Dolphin, who had with them a quantity of seal’s flesh, blubber, and penguins, which they ate without any kind of dressing. A seaman having catched a fish bigger than a herring, gave it to one of them, who killed it by a bite near the gills, and instantly devoured it. These people would not drink any liquor but water, but they eagerly ate provisions of any kind, boiled, roasted, raw, salt, or fresh. Though the weather was very cold, they had no covering but a seal-skin, and even that they did not wear when they were rowing. It was remarked that they had all sore eyes, probably occasioned by the smoke of their fires, and they lived in such a nasty way that they smelt as rank as a fox. They had a kind of javelin, pointed with bone, which they used in striking fish. The Captain presented them with a few baubles, with which they departed well satisfied.

Twenty-two of the sailors staying one night on an island, thirty of the natives hurried to their boat, and began to make free with its contents; but the sailors had just time to hinder 65their depredations, which enraging them, they ran to their canoes, and armed themselves with poles and javelins; but the sailors giving them some small presents, peace and harmony were soon restored.

The 30th of the month proving a fine day, they employed themselves in drying the sails of the ships, which were damaged by having been long wet. Several Indians went on board the next day, and proved to be the people which the boat’s crew had seen on shore.

On the 1st of April some of the natives brought several of the birds called Race-horses, which they sold to the sailors. The next day eight Indians brought six of their children on board, whom the Captain gratified with bracelets and necklaces. These people were exceedingly tender in the treatment of their children; and a circumstance happened which proves that they are not less delicate in other respects.⁠—A boat was ordered on shore to get wood and water; at this time some of the Indians were on board, and others in their canoes a-longside the ship: the latter eyed the boat attentively; and, on her putting off, called aloud to their companions, who, without speaking, instantly handed down the children, and jumped into the canoes, which were hurried after the boat, while the Indians cried out in a most distressful tone. When the ship’s boat was near land, some women were seen among the rocks, to 66whom the Indians called out aloud, and they all ran away; but the boat’s crew having remarked their jealous fears, lay on their oars, to convince them that no injury was intended. The Indians landed, drew their canoes on shore, and hastily followed the objects of their affection.

On the 5th, at the request of the Surgeon, orders were given that no more muscles, of which they had hitherto collected plenty, should be brought on board, as the crew began to be troubled with fluxes. On the 10th the two ships sailed in company; and on the 11th they lost sight of each other, and did not meet again during the whole voyage. This day the Dolphin cleared the Streight of Magellan, in which she had laboured with innumerable difficulties, and escaped most imminent dangers, in a passage of almost four months, viz. from December the 17th, 1766, to the 11th of April, 1767.

Captain Wallis now proceeds to a description of the places in which the ships anchored, during their passage through the Streight; but as a minute recital of bearings, distances, and soundings, would be unintelligible to most of our readers, and possibly disgusting to them all, we shall omit these particulars; extracting only such anecdotes as may furnish real improvement or entertainment.

In the year 1581 the Spaniards built a town, which they named Phillipville, and left in it a 67colony of four hundred persons. These were all starved to death except twenty-four, all of whom but one proceeded in search of the river Plata, and most probably perished, as no tidings were ever heard of them: the remaining man, whose name was Hernando, was taken on board by Sir William Cavendish, in the year 1587, and brought to England; and the place was called Port Famine, from the melancholy fate of these unfortunate men. Wood and water abounds at this place; geese, ducks, teal, &c. are in great abundance, and there is no want of fish; so that the face of things must be greatly changed since the Spaniards died there of hunger.

Cape Holland Bay, where fish are catched in great plenty; and the adjacent country produces plenty of cranberries and wild celery, but there are no birds. At Cape Gallant Bay there is wood, water, vegetables, and fish; as there is also at Elizabeth’s Bay, and York Road. Butler’s Bay abounds with rock-fish, muscles, wild-fowls, &c. Lion Cove and Goodluck Bay produce scarce any thing but wood and water. Muscles and rock-fish are found at Swallow Harbour, the mountains round which are desolate beyond description. Upright Bay produces excellent water, and some wild-fowl and fish.

On Sunday the 12th of April they held a westward course, during which a number of sheerwaters, pintadoes, gannets, and other birds, 68flew about the ship; the upper works of which being open, and the cloaths and bedding constantly wet, the sailors in a few days were attacked with colds and fevers. The 27th of this month proving a fine day, the sick were brought on deck, and nourished with salop, and portable soup, in which wheat was boiled. The violent gales soon returned, so that the beds were again wet through, and it was feared that the ship would lose her masts: they therefore began to think of altering their course, in hope of better weather; and the rather, as the number of sick encreased so fast, that there was danger of soon wanting hands to navigate the vessel.

Nothing material happened from this time till the 14th of May, when something appeared to the eastward, which looked like high land, towards which a flock of brown birds were observed to fly: they therefore steered all night for this supposed land; but at day-break could see no signs of it. As the weather now mended, the people recovered very fast; and the carpenters were busied in caulking the upper-works of the ship, and repairing the boats. On the 21st they saw a number of flying-fish, and on the day following tropic birds, bonettas, and dolphins. About this time those who had recovered from colds were attacked with the scurvy; on which some sweet-wort was extracted from malt for their use, and they were supplied with pickled cabbage, and wine instead of 69brandy. Two grampuses were seen on the 26th, and on the day following variety of birds, one of which was taken for a land-bird, and resembled a swallow. Every method of cleanliness, and change of food, was now taken to prevent the scurvy, which began to encrease very fast.

On the first of June they saw several men of war birds, and the next day observed some gannets; and the weather being at this time very various, they conceived hopes that they drew near the land. On the 4th a turtle swam close by the ship; and the next day a great variety of birds were seen.

The long wished-for relief was now fast approaching; for on Saturday the 6th the man at the mast-head cried, “Land in the west-north-west.” This proved to be a low island, distant five or six leagues, and was soon seen from the deck, to the great joy of every one on board. When they came within five miles of this island, they discovered another to the west-north-west. Two boats were sent to the first discovered island, under the command of the second Lieutenant, the crews being well provided with arms. When the boats came near the island, two canoes were observed to put off to the other island. The crews having landed, gathered some cocoa-nuts, and collected a quantity of scurvy-grass, with which they returned to the ship, bringing with them some fish-hooks which the islanders had formed of oyster-shells. In this excursion 70they saw three huts, supported on posts, and open all round, but thatched with cocoa-nut and palm leaves, ingeniously wrought together. As no anchorage was to be found, and the whole island was encompassed with rocks and breakers, the Captain resolved to steer for the other island, giving the name of Whitsun Island to this, because it was discovered on the eve of Whitsunday.

Having approached the other island, about 50 of the natives, armed with pikes, and some having fire-brands in their hands, were observed running on the coast. Two boats were sent out, manned and armed, and the Lieutenant was instructed to steer for that part of the shore where the people had been seen; to avoid offending them, and to try to procure water and fruit in exchange for such commodities as he took with them. When the boat came near the shore, the natives put themselves in a position as if they would defend it with their pikes; but the crew making signs of friendship, and exposing their trinkets, some of the Indians walked into the water; to whom it was hinted, that some cocoa-nuts and water would be acceptable; which was no sooner done, than they fetched a small quantity of each, which they ventured to bring to the boats, and received some nails and other trifles in exchange. While they were dealing, one of the Indians stole a silk handkerchief 71with its contents, but the thief could by no means be discovered.

The next morning the boats were again dispatched, with orders to land, if they could do it without offence to the natives. As they approached the shore, they observed seven large canoes, each with two masts, laying ready for the Indians to embark in them: these having made signs to the crew to proceed farther, and this being done, the Indians embarked, and sailed westward, being joined by two canoes at another part of the island. These canoes, two of which were lashed together, appeared to be 30 feet in length, four in breadth, and three in depth. The people had long black hair hanging over their shoulders, were of a dark complexion, and of the middle size. They were dressed in a kind of matting made fast round the middle; and it was remarked, that the women were beautiful, and the men justly proportioned.

The Lieutenant being again sent on shore the Captain commanded him to take possession of the island in the king’s name, and to call it Queen Charlotte’s Island. The boats returned loaded with cocoa-nuts and scurvy-grass, after having found two wells of excellent water. Provisions for a week were now allotted for a mate and twenty men, who were left on shore to fill water; the sick were landed for the benefit of the air; and a number of hands were appointed 72to climb the cocoa-trees, and gather the nuts.

On the 10th the water was brought on board the ship, but the cocoa-nuts, and vegetables which the cutter was bringing off, were lost by the rolling of the waves, which almost filled her with water. On this island were found several tools, resembling adzes, awls and chissels, which were formed of shells and stones. The dead bodies were not buried, but left to decay above ground, under a kind of canopy.

The ship sailed this day, after taking possession of the islands for the king; in testimony of which they left a flag flying, and carved his majesty’s name on a piece of wood, and on the bark of several trees. For the use of the natives they left shillings, sixpences, halfpence, bottles, nails, hatchets, and other things. It should be remarked that, on this island, they found the very people who had fled from Queen Charlotte’s Island, with several others, in the whole near one hundred. It lies in 19 degrees 20 minutes south latitude, and 138 degrees 30 minutes west longitude; and received the name of Egmont Island.

On the 11th they observed about sixteen persons on an island which was called Gloucester Island; but, as it was surrounded with rocks and breakers, they did not attempt to land. This day they likewise discovered another, which was called Cumberland Island; and, on the 73day following, a third, which received the name of Prince William Henry’s Island.

On the 17th they again discovered land, and at ten at night saw a light, which convinced them that it was inhabited; and remarked, that there was plenty of cocoa-trees, a certain indication that there was no want of water.

The day following an officer was sent to the shore, with instructions to exchange some toys for such things as the island produced. He saw a great number of the people, but could find no place in which the ship might anchor. Some of the Indians, who had white sticks in their hands, appeared to have an authority over the rest. While the Lieutenant was trafficking with them, an Indian diving into the water seized the grappling of the boat, while his companions on the shore laid hold of the rope by which she was fastened, and attempted to draw her into the surf: but their endeavours were frustrated by the firing of a musket, on which all parties let go their hold. These Indians were dressed in a kind of cloth, a piece of which was brought to the ship.

From the number of the people seen, and their having some large double canoes on the shore, it was thought that there were larger islands at no great distance: the Captain, therefore, having named this place Osnaburgh Island, made sail, and having soon discovered 74high land, came to an anchor, because the weather was very foggy.

Early the next morning they saw land, distant 4 or 5 leagues; but after having sailed towards it some time, thought it prudent again to anchor, on account of the thickness of the fog: but it no sooner cleared away, than they found the ship encompassed by hundreds of canoes, in which were many hundreds of people. Having approached the ship, they beheld it with wonder, and talked with great earnestness. Some baubles were now shewn them, and signs were made for them to come on board, on which they rowed the canoes towards each other, and a general consultation took place; at the conclusion of which they all surrounded the ship with an appearance of friendship, and one of them delivered an oration, at the conclusion of which he threw into the sea the branch of a plantain-tree which he had held in his hand. This being done, a young Indian, of more apparent courage than the rest, ventured on board the ship. The Captain would have given him some baubles, but he refused the acceptance of them till those in the canoes came a-longside, and, having held a consultation, threw on board several branches of the plantain-tree. Others now ventured on board; but it was remarked, that they all got into the ship at some improper part, not one of them, even by accident, finding the right place of ascent.

75A goat belonging to the ship having ran his horns against the back of one of the Indians, he looked round with surprize, and seeing the animal ready to renew the attack, he sprang over the ship’s side, and was instantly followed by all his countrymen. Their terror, however, soon subsided, and they returned to the ship; and the sheep, hogs and poultry being shewn them, they intimated that they possessed the two latter species. The Captain now gave them nails and other trifles, and made signs that he wanted hogs, fowls and fruit; but they could not comprehend him. They were detected in several attempts to take away any thing they could lay hold of; but one of them, at length, jumped overboard with a laced hat snatched from one of the officers.

The inner parts of the island abound in hills cloathed with timber trees, above them are high peaks, from which large rivers descend to the sea. The houses, when seen at a distance, resemble a barn, having no shelter but a roof: the land towards the sea is level, and produces the cocoa-nut, with variety of other fruits; and the face of the whole country is picturesque beyond description.

They now sailed along the shore, while the canoes, which could not keep pace with them, made towards the land. In the afternoon the ship brought to, and the boats being sent to sound a bay that promised good anchorage, the 76Indian canoes flocked round them. The Captain, apprehensive that their designs were hostile, made a signal for the boats to return to the ship, and fired a gun over the heads of the Indians. Though they were frightened at the report, they attempted to prevent the return of the cutter, but she easily out-sailed them. This being observed by some canoes in a different station, they intercepted her, and wounded some of her people with stones, which occasioned the firing a musket, and some shot were lodged in the shoulder of the man who began the attack; which the Indians observing, they all made off with the utmost precipitation.

The boats having reached the ship, preparations were made for sailing; but a large canoe being observed to make towards her at a great rate, it was resolved to wait the event of her arrival; on which an Indian, making a speech, threw a plantain-branch on board, and the Captain returned the compliment of peace, by giving them a branch, which had been left on board by the other Indians: some toys being likewise given them, they departed with much seeming satisfaction.

They now sailed; and the next morning were off a peak of land which was almost covered with the natives and their houses. On the 21st the ship came to an anchor, and several canoes came a-longside of her, bringing a large quantity of fruit, with fowls and hogs, for which 77they received nails and toys in exchange. The boats having been sent to sound along the coast, were followed by large double canoes, three of which ran at the cutter, staved in her quarter, and otherwise damaged her; the Indians, at the same time, armed with clubs, endeavouring to board her. The crew now fired, and wounding one man dangerously, and killing another, they both fell into the sea, whither their companions dived after them, and got them into the canoe. They now tried if they could stand or sit; but as the one was quite dead, they laid him at the bottom of the canoe; and the wounded man was supported in a sitting posture. The ships boats now kept on their way, while some of the canoes went ashore, and others returned to the ship to renew their merchandize.

While the boats continued out in search of soundings, the natives swam off to them with water and fruit. The women were particularly urgent for the sailors to land, and, pulling off all their cloaths, gave hints, of the most indelicate nature, how acceptable their company would be.

The boats being sent on shore with some small casks to get water, the Indians filled two of them, and kept all the rest for their trouble. When the boats came off, the shore was crouded with thousands of men, women, and children. During this time several canoes remained a-longside the ship; but the Captain would not 78permit a single Indian to go on board, as there was no guarding against their artful disposition.

On the 22d the natives brought hogs, poultry, and fruit to the ship, which they bartered for knives and other things; so that the whole crew was supplied with meat for two days, by means of this traffick. The boats having been this day sent for water, every inducement was used by the inhabitants to persuade them to land: and the behaviour of the women was still more lascivious than before. Having procured a small quantity of water, the boats put off; on which the women shouted aloud, pelted them with apples and bananas, and shewed every mark of contempt and detestation.

The ship made sail the day following, with intention to anchor off the watering-place; but the man at the mast-head discovering a bay a few miles to the leeward, they immediately stood for it. The boats, which were a-head, making a signal for anchorage, they prepared to bring to; but when the ship had almost reached the boats, she suddenly struck, and her head remained immoveably fixed on a coral rock; in which situation she remained near an hour, when she was happily relieved by a breeze from the shore. During the whole time that she was in danger of being wrecked, she was encompassed by hundreds of Indians in their canoes; but not one of them attempted to board her. The 79ship was now piloted round a reef, into an harbour, where she moored.

The Master was then sent to sound the bay, and found safe anchorage in every part of it. In the mean time some small canoes brought provisions on board; but as the shore was crouded with large canoes, filled with men, the Captain loaded and primed his guns, supplied his boats with musquetoons, and kept a number of the men constantly under arms.

On the 24th the ship sailed up the harbour, and was followed by many canoes, bringing provisions, which were exchanged for nails, knives, &c. In the evening a number of very large canoes advanced, laden with stones; on which the Captain ordered the strictest watch to be kept. At length some canoes came off, with a number of women on board, who, being brought almost under the ship, began to practise those arts of indelicacy already mentioned. During this singular exhibition the large canoes came close round the ship; some of the Indians playing on a kind of flute, others singing, and the rest blowing a sort of shells. Soon after a large canoe advanced, in which was an awning, on the top of which sat one of the natives, holding some yellow and red feathers in his hand. The Captain having consented to his coming a-longside, he delivered the feathers; and while a present was preparing for him, he put back from the ship, and threw the branch 80of a cocoa-tree in the air. This was, doubtless, the signal for an onset; for there was an instant shout from all the canoes, which, approaching the ship, threw vollies of stones into every part of her. On this two guns, loaded with small shot, were fired, and the people on guard discharged their muskets. The number of Indians now round the ship were full two thousand; and though they were at first disconcerted, they soon recovered their spirits, and renewed the attack. Thousands of the Indians were now observed on shore, embarking as fast as the canoes could bring them off: orders were therefore given for firing the cannon, some of which were brought to bear upon the shore. This firing put a stop to all hostilities, on the part of the Indians, for a small time: but the scattered canoes soon got together again, and, having hoisted white streamers, advanced, and threw stones of two pounds weight from slings; by which a number of the seamen were wounded. At this time several canoes approached the bow of the ship, from whence no shot had been yet discharged. In one of these was an Indian, who appeared to have an authority over the rest: a gun was therefore levelled at his canoe, the shot of which split it in two pieces. This put an end to the contest; the canoes rowed off with the utmost speed, and the people on shore ran and concealed themselves behind the hills.

81The Captain now sailed for his intended anchoring-place, and moored the ship within a small distance of a fine river. The next morning some persons, who had been sent to survey the shore, returned with an account that the river produced fresh water, and that there was not a single canoe to be seen.

This day a Lieutenant was dispatched, with all the boats manned and armed, and a number of marines, with orders to land under cover of the ship and boats; which being effected, he turned a piece of turf, and having hoisted a pendant on a staff, he took possession of the place, for his Sovereign, by the name of King George the Third’s Island. He then mixed some rum with the river water, and every person present drank the King’s health. At this time the Lieutenant observed two old men on the opposite side of the river, who seemed much terrified, and assumed a posture of supplication. Signs were made for them to cross the river, which one of them having done, he crawled on his hands and knees towards the Lieutenant; who, shewing him some stones that had been thrown at the ship, hinted that the Indians should receive no harm if they were not the aggressors. Some hatchets were now produced, to intimate that they wished to barter for provisions; and some trifling matters were given to the Indian, who testified his joy and gratitude by dancing round the pendant. He then plucked 82some branches of trees, which he laid on the ground, and retreated; but soon returning with several others, they advanced towards the pendant, which happening to be shaken by the wind, they ran back with evident signs of astonishment. They soon recovered from their surprize, and procuring two hogs, laid them down at the foot of the flag-staff, and danced round it; after which they put the hogs into a canoe, and the old Indian rowed it to the ship: when he came a-longside he delivered a serious oration, in the course of which he handed up a number of plantain-leaves, one at a time: this being done, he rowed back, after refusing several presents that had been offered him.

In the night a number of lights were seen on the coast, and the noise of drums and other instruments of music was heard. Soon after daylight it was observed that the Indians had left the coast, and taken away the pendant. This day, while a party was engaged in filling the water-casks, the old man, who had been seen the day before, crossed the river, and brought with him some fowls and fruit. The Captain, who was indisposed on board the ship, employed himself in remarking what was going forward on shore; and, by the help of glasses, he saw many of the Indians creeping behind the bushes towards the watering-place, while incredible numbers were coming through the woods, and a large party descending a hill, all advancing to the same 83spot; and two divisions of canoes were making round the opposite points of the bay. The Lieutenant, seeing his danger, got his party on board the boats; but not before he had sent the old Indian to prevail on the others to keep at a proper distance, as he wanted only water:⁠—but this had no effect; and, as soon as the crews were in the boats, the natives possessed themselves of the casks as lawful prize. Those at some distance from the watering-place pushed forward with all speed, keeping pace with the canoes, which were rowed at an extraordinary rate; while a great number of women and children were seated on a hill, from whence they could command a view of all that passed.

When the canoes came near that part of the bay where the ship rode, they took in many people from the shore, who were laden with bags filled with stones. All the canoes now approached the ship; on which the Captain gave orders to fire on the first cluster of them that should assemble; this had such an effect, that they all rowed off with the utmost speed. They then fired into several parts of the wood, on which the Indians all fled to the hill where the women and children were; so that several thousands were now on that spot. The Captain being resolved to make this action decisive, fired towards the hill; and two balls falling near a spot where many of these poor Indians had stationed 84themselves, they were all terrified beyond description, and disappeared in an instant.

When this disagreeable skirmish was ended, the boats were hoisted out, and a strong guard sent with the carpenters, who had orders to destroy every canoe they could find; and this service was performed with such alacrity, that in a few hours a great number of these vessels were cut in pieces, several of which were of the largest size. Some fruit, fowls, and hogs, were found in a few of the smallest; but the rest were laden with stones and slings.

It was not long before a small party of Indians advanced to the sea-shore, and sticking up some small branches of trees, went back to the woods: but they came again repeatedly, bringing with them a quantity of the cloth they wear, and some dogs and hogs with their legs tied; all which they laid on the shore, making signs to the sailors to take them. A boat being sent on shore, the hogs were conveyed on board, but the other articles left. In return for these presents, several hatchets and nails were left on the beach, and signs made to some of the Indians within sight to come and take them; which they neglected to do for some time, till the Captain having sent for the cloth, the natives then accepted his presents with apparent satisfaction.

On the 27th, while a party was getting water, the old man before-mentioned appeared on the opposite side of the river; and having harangued 85them some time, he came over; when the officer, pointing to the bags and stones which had been brought down, tried to convince him that his countrymen had injured the English, who had acted only on the defensive. His meaning seemed to be well understood, but the old Indian could not admit the force of his arguments:⁠—on the contrary, he expressed very forcibly, by his countenance, voice, and actions, the high sense he had of the injury offered his unhappy friends. At length a reconciliation took place; the old man shook hands with, and accepted some presents from the Lieutenant, who tried to convince him of his good-will; hinted that the natives should not appear but in small parties, and that while the boats crews were on one side of the river they should remain on the other. The old man departed with evident signs of being content with these terms; and in a few hours the natives began a traffic, which proved highly advantageous to the ship’s company.

The sick were now sent on shore, and lodged in a tent near the watering-place, under the care of the Surgeon. This gentleman having shot a wild-duck, it dropped near some Indians on the opposite side of the river, who were so terrified that they instantly fled; but stopping within a short space, he prevailed on one of them to bring over the duck, which he at length complied with, and laid it at the Surgeon’s feet, 86while his looks expressed the fear and agitation of his mind. At a second shot three ducks were killed; which gave the natives such an idea of the effects of a gun, that to this circumstance is chiefly attributed the regularity of their behaviour in all their transactions, while the English remained among them.

Orders were now issued, that the gunner should transact all matters of trade between the Indians and the sailors, with a view to prevent pilfering and quarrelling: the natives, indeed, would sometimes steal a trifle, but the very sight of a gun procured instant restitution of it. The old Indian, having been attached to the English, was very useful in the recovery of the stolen goods. One day an Indian swam over the river, and took a hatchet, on which the gunner made preparations as if he would go in search of the thief; but this being intimated to the old man, he immediately went after the lost goods, which he brought back. The gunner now demanded that the culprit should also be produced, and the old Indian complied, though much against his inclination. The prisoner, who had committed other robberies, was sent on board the ship, whence the Captain discharged him, without farther punishment than the terror arising from his situation. His countrymen were transported with joy to see him come back; and he was conducted into the woods, amidst the applausive shouts of his friends. This man had 87the gratitude to bring a roasted hog and some bread-fruit to the gunner next day, as an acknowledgment for the lenity shewn him.

The Captain, First Lieutenant, and Purser, were at this time very ill; so that the care of the vessel, and the superintendence of the sick, were committed to the Second Lieutenant, who discharged his duty with such zeal and fidelity, that all was order and decorum. Fruit, fowls, and fresh pork, were procured in such plenty, that at the end of fourteen days almost every man had perfectly recovered his health.

On the 29th a piece of saltpetre, of the size of a small egg, was found on shore; but whether it had been brought from the ship, or not, could not be learnt, after the most diligent enquiry; but no other piece was found on the island.

On the 2d of July they began to want fruit and fresh meat, owing to the absence of the old Indian; but they had still a sufficient supply for the sick. On the 3d the ship’s bottom was examined, when its condition was nearly the same as when she left England. This day a shark was caught, which proved an acceptable present to the Indians.

The old Indian, who had visited the interior parts of the island, in quest of provisions, returned on the 5th, and brought with him a roasted hog as a present for the Captain, who, in return, enriched him by putting him in possession of a looking-glass, an iron pot, &c. His 88return was soon followed by some of the natives who had never yet visited the market; these brought some hogs that were larger than any yet purchased.

A traffick of a singular kind was now established between the Indian girls and the sailors. The price of a lady’s favour was a nail or two; but as the tars could not always get at the nails, they drew them out from several parts of the ship; nor could a single offender be discovered by the strictest enquiry. The damage done to the ship could be easily repaired; but one ill consequence arose from this traffick, which could not have been foreseen: for on the gunner’s offering small nails for hogs, the Indians produced large spikes, demanding such as those. Some of the men made use of a singular device to gratify their passions; for, when they could procure no more nails, they cut lead into the shape of nails, and passed it as sterling on their unsuspecting fair ones. When the Indians discovered the fraud, they demanded nails for the lead; but this just demand could not be granted, because it would have promoted the stealing of lead, and thereby injured the traffic with iron.

The sailors, in consequence of their connection with the women, became so impatient of controul, that the Captain ordered the articles of war to be read, to awe them into obedience; and a Corporal of marines was severely 89punished, for striking the master at arms. The Captain’s health being now nearly restored, he went in his boat to survey the island, which he found extremely delightful, and every where well peopled.

On the 8th the wood-cutters were entertained in a friendly manner by some Indians, who seemed to be of a rank above those they had yet seen: and some of these visiting the Captain, he laid before them a thirty-six shilling piece, a guinea, a crown-piece, a dollar, some shillings, new halfpence, and two large nails; and having intimated that they might take their choice, they eagerly seized the nails, and then took a few halfpence; but left all the other pieces untouched.

The Indians now refused to supply the market, unless they could get large nails in exchange: the Captain therefore ordered the ship to be searched, when it was found that almost all the hammock-nails were stolen, and great numbers drawn from different places: on which every man was ordered before the Captain, who told them, that not a man should go on shore till the thieves were discovered; but no good consequence arose from his threats.

Three days after this, the gunner conducted to the ship a lady of a portly figure and agreeable face, whose age seemed to be upwards of forty. This lady had but lately arrived in that part of the island; and the gunner, observing 90that she seemed to have great authority, presented her with some toys; on which she invited him to her house, and gave him some fine hogs. She was afterwards taken on board at her own desire, where her whole behaviour indicated the woman of fine sense and superior rank. The Captain presented her with a looking-glass and some toys, and gave her a handsome blue mantle, which he tied round her with ribbands.

Having intimated that she should be glad to see the Captain on shore, he signified his intention of visiting her on the following day. Accordingly on Sunday the 12th, Captain Wallis went on shore, where he was met by his fair friend, who was attended by a numerous retinue, some of whom she directed to carry the Captain, and others who had been ill, over the river, and thence to her habitation: the procession was closed by a guard of marines and seamen. As they advanced, great numbers of Indians crowded to see them; but, on a slight motion of her hand, they made ample room for the procession to pass.

Having come near her habitation, many persons of both sexes advanced to meet her, whom she caused to kiss the Captain’s hand, while she signified that they were related to her. Her house was above 320 feet in length, and about 40 in breadth. The roof, which was covered with the leaves of the palm-tree, was supported by a row of pillars on each side, and another in the middle. The highest part of the thatch 91on the inside was about 30 feet from the ground, and the space between the sides of the building and the edge of the roof being 12 feet, was left entirely open.

The Captain, Lieutenant, and Purser, being seated, the lady helped four of her female attendants to pull off their coats, shoes, and stockings; which being aukwardly performed, the girls smoothed down the skin, and rubbed it lightly with their hands for more than half an hour; and the gentlemen received great benefit from the operation. The Surgeon, being heated with walking, having pulled off his wig, one of the Indians screamed out; the eyes of the whole company were instantly fixed on the miraculous sight, and they remained some time in the most profound astonishment. When they had recovered from their surprize, the lady ordered several bales of cloth, the produce of the island, to be brought out, in which she dressed the Captain and all his attendants. Orders had been given, that the Captain should be carried as before; but as he chose to walk, she took hold of his arm, and when they came near any wet or dirty places, she lifted him over, with as much ease as a man would a child. She attended them to the shore, when she took her leave; having presented the Captain with a fine sow, big with young.

On the following day the gunner being dispatched to this lady, with a compliment of bill-hooks, 92hatchets, &c. found her entertaining many hundreds of the natives, who were seated in order round her habitation. A mess was ordered for the gunner, who reported, that it was of an agreeable flavour, and seemed to be a compound of fowls and apples, shred in small pieces, and mixed with salt-water. The lady herself distributed the provisions, which were served in cocoa-nut shells, and those shells brought in trays by her servants. When the company were all fed, the lady took her seat somewhat above the rest, and was fed by two female servants, one standing on each side of her. She received the Captain’s presents with evident signs of satisfaction.

From this period the crew was much better supplied with refreshments, hogs and fowls being brought to the market daily; but they could not be purchased at the former prices, owing to the commerce before-mentioned, between the sailors and the Indian women: the Captain therefore ordered, that not one woman should be permitted to come over the river, and that no man should leave the ship till he had first been searched.

The gunner, who was on shore on the 14th, met with the following affecting incident. He saw an old woman, on the opposite side of the river, weeping in a most lamentable manner. When she found he regarded her distress, she sent a youth to him, who, having made a long 93oration, laid a branch of plantain at his feet, and then retired, and brought over the woman and two hogs. The youth now made a still longer speech, after the conclusion of which this unfortunate woman made the gunner understand, that when the English fired on her countrymen, her husband and three of her sons had been killed. Her agitation of mind was such, that before she had finished her tale, she sunk speechless to the ground; nor were two lads, who attended her, in a much better situation. The gunner pitied her distress, and endeavoured to comfort her. At length she became somewhat calmer, offered him her hand, and directed the hogs to be given him: in return he would have given her much more than their value, but she would not take the most trifling article.

On the 15th a large party, in all the boats, rowed round part of the island, in order to take a view of it, and purchase provisions. They returned with a number of hogs and fowls, and some plantains and cocoa-nuts. The island was found to be every where very pleasant, and to abound with various necessaries of life. Great numbers of canoes were seen, and several not quite built. The tools of the natives were formed of bones, shells, and stones. Dogs and hogs were the only four-footed beasts. The inhabitants ate all their meat either roasted or baked, having no vessel in which water could be boiled; nor, indeed, did they seem to have the least idea that 94water could be heated by fire; this will be proved by the following circumstance. While the lady so frequently mentioned was at breakfast on board the ship, a person that attended her, having observed the cock of an urn turned to fill the tea-pot, he also turned the cock, and the scalding water falling on his hand, he cried out, and danced about the cabin, while the other Indians gazed at him with terror and surprize.

On the 17th Captain Wallis received another visit from the lady; (whom he calls his Queen) and this day plenty of refreshments were purchased of some Indians, whom they had never dealt with before. The Queen repeated her visit on the following day, and gave the Captain two hogs: and the Master being sent to attend her home, she clothed him in the dress of the country, as she had done the Captain and his retinue. On the 19th a great number of hogs and pigs, with fowls and fruits in the greatest abundance, were purchased and sent on board by the gunner. The next day one of the sailors was sentenced to run the gauntlet three times round the deck, while the crew whipped him with nettles, for drawing nails from the ship; but the tars were so well disposed to spare a brother in iniquity, that his punishment was rather nominal than real: this gave rise to an order, that no person should go on shore but those appointed to procure wood and water.

95Captain Wallis’s Queen paid him another visit on the 21st, and presented him with some hogs. On her departure she invited the Captain to her house, who, taking some officers with him, attended her home. On their arrival, she tied round their hats some wreaths of plaited hair, and distinguished the Captain’s by the additional ornament of a tuft of feathers of different colours. When they returned she went with them to the water-side, and ordered some presents into the boat. Just before they put off Mr. Wallis intimated, that he should finally depart in seven days; when she made signs that he should stay twenty: but his resolution to depart within the first-mentioned time being repeated, she wept incessantly for a considerable time.

By the 22d the ship was so well stored with hogs and fowls that the deck was covered; but, as they would eat little else than fruit, they were killed faster than was otherwise intended. A boar and sow of this breed were brought to England, and given to Mr. Stephens, secretary of the admiralty; the former of which was living when this account was printed, but the latter died in farrowing.

On the 24th the Captain presented his friend, the old Indian, with cloth and other matters; and sent a variety of things to the Queen, among which were a cat with kitten, turkies, geese, hens, and various kinds of garden seeds; which compliment she returned by a present of 96fruit and hogs. While they remained here they sowed peas and garden seeds, and staid long enough to see them come up, and likely to thrive.

The Captain having sent a party on shore on the 25th to examine the country minutely, caused a tent to be erected to observe an eclipse of the sun, and when it was ended, he took his telescope to the Queen’s house to shew her the use of it; and her surprize is not to be expressed, on her beholding several objects which she was very familiar with, but which were too distant to be seen by the naked eye. On the conclusion of this mental feast, the Captain invited the Queen and her attendants on board the ship, judging that no insult would be offered to the party he had sent out, while the principle people were in his power. The Queen’s attendants ate heartily of an elegant dinner, and drank water only; but the Queen would neither eat nor drink. When the party returned from their excursion, the Captain gave orders for landing the Queen and her train. She made signs to be informed, if he held his resolution as to the time of his departure; and being answered in the affirmative, her tears witnessed the agitation of her mind.

The following is an account of the transactions and observations of the party which was sent out this day.⁠—When they first landed they called on the old Indian, and taking him with 97them, they walked some on each side of the river about two miles, observing that the soil was blackish and rich, and that on the borders of the valley, through which the river flowed, were many houses with gardens walled in, and plenty of fruit, hogs, and fowls. They now all walked on one side, as the ground rose nearly perpendicular on the other. Channels were cut in many places, to conduct the water from the hills to the gardens and plantations, and the ground being fenced off had a pleasing effect to the eye. There was good grass, but no underwood beneath the trees: the cocoa-nut and plantain grew on level ground; while the bread-fruit and apple-trees were set in rows on the sides of the hills.

The stream now became a perfect meander, and the crags of mountains which rose on its borders hung over the heads of our travellers. After walking four miles, they sat down to breakfast under an apple-tree, when they were alarmed by the shouts of a great number of the natives. They would have had recourse to their arms, but the old Indian making signs for them to sit still, went to his countrymen, who became at once silent, and instantly retired: but they soon returned with variety of refreshments, which the old Indian divided among our travellers; and for which the Lieutenant gave the natives some buttons, and other trifles.

98They then proceeded, and looked diligently for metals and ores, in every place likely to produce them; but found nothing of any consequence. The old Indian growing weary, hinted, that he should return, having first directed his countrymen to clear a passage for the travellers over a mountain. When the old man was gone, the Indians cut branches from the trees, and laid them in a ceremonious manner at the feet of the seamen: they then painted themselves red with the berries of a tree, and stained their garments yellow with the bark of another. By the assistance of the Indians, the most difficult parts of the mountain were climbed; and they again refreshed themselves on its summit, when they saw other mountains so much above them, that they seemed as in a valley.

Towards the sea the prospect was inexpressibly beautiful, the sides of the hills being covered with trees, and the vallies with grass; while the whole country was interspersed with villages. They saw but few houses on the mountains above them, but as smoke was observed in many places, it was conjectured, that the highest parts were inhabited. Many springs gushed from the sides of the mountains, all of which were covered with wood on the sides, and with fern on the summits. The soil even on the high lands was rich, and the sugar-cane grew without cultivation; as did likewise ginger and turmerick.

The Queen of Otaheite taking leave of Capn. Wallis.

99Having a third time refreshed themselves, they descended towards the ship, occasionally deviating from the direct way, tempted, by the pleasant situation of several houses, the inhabitants of which entertained them in the most hospitable manner. They saw parrots, parroquets, green doves, and ducks. The Lieutenant planted the stones of cherries, peaches and plums, several kinds of garden-seeds, and oranges, lemons and limes. In the afternoon they rested on a delightful spot, where the inhabitants dressed them two hogs and several fowls. Here they staid till the evening, when they rewarded the diligence of their guides, and repaired to the ship.

On the 26th the Queen visited the Captain, with her usual presents; and on this day they discontinued taking in wood and water, and prepared for sailing. A greater number of Indians now came to the sea-shore than they had ever yet seen; and of these, several appeared to be persons of consequence. In the afternoon the Queen visited captain Wallis, and sollicited him to remain ten days longer; but being informed that he should certainly sail on the following day, she burst into tears. She now demanded when he would come again, and was told in 50 days. She remained on board till evening, when being informed that the boat waited for her, she wept with more violence than she had yet done. At length this affectionate creature 100went over the ship’s side, as did the old Indian who had been so serviceable to the crew. This man had signified, that his son should sail with the Captain; but when the time of departure came, the youth was not to be found; and it was thought, that parental affection had got the better of the old man’s promise.

Early the next morning two boats were sent to fill a few casks of water; but the officer, alarmed at finding the shore crouded with people, was about to return. This brought the Queen forward, who commanded the Indians to retire to the opposite side of the river, and then made signs for the boats to land. While the water was filling, she ordered some presents into the boat, and entreated to go once more to the ship; but the officer having it in charge not to bring off a single native, she ordered her double canoe out, and was followed by many others. When she had been on board, weeping bitterly, for an hour, advantage was taken of a breeze, and the ship got under sail. She now tenderly embraced the Captain and Officers, and left the ship; but the wind falling, the canoes all put back, and once more reached the ship, to which the Queen’s being made fast, she advanced to the bow of the canoe, and wept incessantly. The Captain presented her with several articles of use and ornament, which she received in silent sorrow. After some time a breeze springing up, the Queen and her attendants 101took their final leave, with many tears, which drew corresponding tears from the eyes of our countrymen.

The place where the ship had lain was called Port Royal Harbour, and is situated in 17 degrees 30 minutes south-longitude, and 150 degrees west-latitude.

Captain Wallis now proceeds to give a more accurate account of the inhabitants of Otaheite, with their customs, manners, &c.⁠—The men are from five feet seven to ten inches high, well proportioned, alert, and of good countenances. The women from five feet to five and a half, handsome in general, but some of them as beautiful as can be imagined. The complexion of those men who are much on the water is rather red; but the natural colour of them all is the tawny. They are remarkably distinguished from all the other natives of Asia, Africa, and America, by the colours of their hair; for that of the former is universally black, while the people of Otaheite have the various colours of black, brown, red and flaxen; most of the children having the latter: when left loose, it has a strong natural curl, but it is usually worn tied in two bunches, one on each side the head, or in a single bunch in the middle. They anoint the head with the oil of the cocoa-nut, mixed with a root of a fragrant smell.

102It has been mentioned, that the ladies do not consider chastity as a virtue; but the price of their favours is always proportioned to their charms. When a man offered a girl to the caresses of a sailor, he shewed a stick of the size of the nail that was to purchase her company.

Their cloaths are formed of two pieces of cloth, not unlike coarse China paper, in one of which a hole is made for the head to pass thro’, and this hangs to the middle of the leg; the other piece is wrapped round the body, and the whole forms an elegant drapery. This cloth is composed of the inner bark of a tree. They adorn themselves with pearls, shells, feathers and flowers. They mark the hinder part of the thighs and loins of both sexes with black lines in different forms; which is done by striking the teeth of an instrument through the skin, and rubbing soot mixed with oil into the holes: some few men, who appeared to be persons of distinction, had their legs marked; but neither boys nor girls are marked till after they are twelve years old.

An Indian who attended the Queen appearing to be fond of imitating the English, was presented with a suit of the Lieutenant’s cloaths, which became him extremely well. As it was shoal-water at the landing-place, the English officers were carried on shore; and this man, unwilling to be out of the fashion, was carried in the same manner by the Indians. In his attempt 103to use a knife and fork at first, his hand always went to his mouth, while the food remained stuck on the end of the fork.

Besides the articles already mentioned, these people eat the flesh of dogs. Rats abound on the island, but are not eaten. The river produces parrot-fish, groopers, cray-fish and mullet, and conchs and muscles are found on the rocks: the inhabitants use nets, and hooks and lines.

There is something singular in their way of dressing their food: having produced a fire by rubbing two pieces of dry wood together, they dig a pit, which being paved with stones, they make a fire in it. The stones being properly heated, they rake away the ashes, and covering the stones with green leaves of the cocoa-nut-tree, they put their meat in plantain leaves, and place it in the pit, covering it over with the hot ashes, on which they lay bread-fruit and yams enclosed in plantain leaves: these again they cover with the embers intermixed with the hot stones: to this succeeds a layer of cocoa-nut leaves, and upon the whole is a covering of earth. In this manner a small hog is dressed whole, but a large one is cut in two; and Captain Wallis asserts, that this method of cookery exceeds every other he has known, the meat being extremely tender, and full of gravy. Their only sauces are salt-water and fruit, and their knives are made of shells.

104They were astonished when they first saw meat boiled in a pot; but the Captain having given iron-pots to the Queen and some of her chiefs, they were often used; and the old Indian fed on boiled meat almost constantly. The only liquor they drink is water: they occasionally pluck and chew a bit of the sugar-cane; but have no idea of extracting any spirit from it.

From the scars with which many of these people were marked, it seems evident, that they sometimes waged war with each other.⁠—That they have skill in surgery is evident from the following circumstance: a splinter having got into the foot of one of the sailors, his mess-mate tried in vain to extract it with a pen-knife: on this one of the natives, having formed an instrument, with his teeth, out of a shell, extracted the splinter in an instant; and the old Indian applying a piece of the gum of the apple-tree to the wound, the man’s foot was quite well in two days.

There are several sheds on the island, enclosed within a wall, on the outside of which several posts are fixed in the ground, on which are rude resemblances of men, women, dogs and hogs. The enclosed place is paved with large stones, between which the grass grows. These were supposed to be burial-places, from the natives being sometimes seen to enter them with an air of solemn sorrow.⁠—It could not be discovered 105that these people had any kind of religious worship among them.

They have three kinds of canoes⁠—one formed out of a single tree, in which they go a fishing; a second, made of planks sewed together, and large enough to hold 20 or 30 men; in which they sail round the island, and come laden home with fruits; and a third sort, which are not unlike the Venetian gondolas, and used when they sail on parties of pleasure. In these they make a kind of procession two or three times in a week, with their streamers flying, attended by the small canoes, while hundreds of the natives accompany their motions on the shore. On these occasions they put on their best cloaths, and while some are under a large awning, others sit upon it:⁠—these are clothed in red and white; two men in red sit on the prow of each vessel; while the rowers and steersmen are in white.

The people of Otaheite use bows and arrows, which last are headed with a round stone. They have likewise bludgeons, and slings for the throwing of stones.

The inhabitants being shewn some small turtles, hinted that they had some which were much larger; but not one was seen by any of the ship’s crew.

Captain Wallis represents this island as one of the most pleasant in the universe; being blessed with a pure air, abounding in wood and herbage, 106harbouring no venomous animal; and its inhabitants being happy in a constant flow of health. The south-east part of the island, which produces fruit in vast abundance, is better peopled than the spot near where the ship lay.

When captain Cook, in the Endeavour, visited this island, he found the venereal disease among the natives; which must have been contracted from some of the crew under the command of M. Bougainville; for not one of captain Wallis’s men were infected with that disorder for several months before and after his arrival at Otaheite.

The Dolphin sailed from this harbour on the 27th of July 1767, and passed the Duke of York’s Island, the coast of which abounds with plantain-trees, cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and apple-trees. On the 28th they discovered land, which was called Sir Charles Saunder’s Island. It had a few inhabitants, who lived in small huts; and the cocoa-nut and other trees grew on the shore. On the 30th they again made land, which received the name of Lord Howe’s Island, on which smoke was seen, but no inhabitants. Their next discovery was of some dangerous shoals, to which captain Wallis gave the name of the Scilly Islands.

They now steered westward till the 13th of August, when they saw two small islands, one of which was named Keppel’s Isle, and the other Boscawen’s Island; on the latter of 107which were several inhabitants; but they steered for the former, as its appearance promised the most convenient anchorage. By the help of glasses they now discovered the natives on the shore; but they did not attempt to anchor that night, on account of some breakers at a considerable distance from the island.

The boats being dispatched to the island, brought on board some cocoa-nuts and other fruit, and a couple of fowls. The officer reported, that the inhabitants were not unlike those of Otaheite; that some few of them ventured into the boat, but soon jumped out and swam back to the island. These people were remarkable for having the first joint of their little fingers cut off; and they were dressed in a sort of matting.

As there was no convenient watering-place at this island, and as the ship had received some damages that had rendered her unfit to encounter a rough sea, the Captain determined to sail for Tinian, from thence to Batavia, and so to England by the Cape of Good Hope. He therefore passed the island, which is well inhabited, abounds in timber, and is of a circular form.

On the 16th they again discovered land, to which the officers gave the name of Wallis’s Island. The coast of this island is very rocky, and the trees grow almost to the edge of the water. The inhabitants wore no covering but a mat round the waist: each man had a very 108large club, two of which were purchased by the boat’s crew. These people attempting to steal the cutter, by hauling her upon the rocks, a gun was fired close to one of their faces, the report of which so terrified them, that they decamped with the utmost speed. When the boats were returning to the ship, they were impeded by the points of rocks, which being observed by the Indians, they followed in their canoes till they got into deep water, and then they rowed back.

Captain Wallis remarks, as an extraordinary circumstance, that although no sort of metal was seen on any of the lately discovered islands, yet the natives were no sooner possessed of a piece of iron than they began to sharpen it, but did not treat copper or brass in the same manner.

They now sailed to the north-west, and on the 28th observed a number of birds flying about the ship, one of which they catched. It was web-footed, but in all other respects resembled a dove. On the 3d of September they saw land, which was thought to be two of the Piscadore Islands; and on this day an Indian Proa (a description of which is given in Anson’s Voyage) made towards the ship, on which they hoisted Spanish Colours; but she came no nearer than within about two miles. On the 7th and 9th they saw several birds, one of which was taken, and judged to be a land-bird. On the 18th they discovered the island of Saypan, 109and soon afterwards that of Tinian, off which they anchored on the day following.

No time was lost in sending the boats on shore, and they returned in a few hours, with oranges, limes, and cocoa-nuts. Tents were erected for the sick, who were sent on shore with all expedition. The smith’s forge, and carpenter’s chest were also landed; and the Captain and first Lieutenant, who both continued ill, went on shore, with a party of men to hunt for cattle. A young bull of great weight was soon catched; and they found plenty of oranges, limes, and bread-fruit. On the 21st they began the necessary repairs of the ship. The fatigue sustained by those who went to hunt for cattle was so great, by going many miles thro’ thickets, that one party was ordered to relieve another; and the second Lieutenant with several of the men, being sent to reside on the north part of the island, where cattle were most plentiful, a boat was sent daily to bring in what they catched. In this island they procured beef, pork, poultry, papaw-apples, and all the other refreshments, of which an account is given in Anson’s Voyage.

By the 15th of October the fruit and water was carried on board, and all the sick being recovered, preparations were made for sailing; and on the next day they left the bay, and sailed to the west.

110On the 21st and 22d they saw several gannets, and other birds; and on the 23d and two following days it blew a violent storm, the effects of which were the more dreaded, as the ship admitted more water than she had done at any time during the voyage. The bad weather continued on the 26th, when they saw several land-birds. They had now to encounter the united horrors of thunder, lightning, rain, darkness, and such a violent sea, as broke even the iron work on the gun-whale, and washed over-board many heavy things. On the 27th they were blest with a sight of the sun, and the day following the weather became more temperate. In the middle of the night one Morgan, a taylor, was suddenly missed, and it was thought he fell over-board in a fit of intoxication.

On the 3d of November they discovered three islands, which were named Sandy Isle, Small Key, and Long Island; and on the day following they saw another, to which captain Wallis gave the name of New Island; all of which islands are in ten degrees odd minutes north-latitude, and 247 degrees odd minutes west-longitude. The ship held her course till the 8th, on which day the log and journal-books of the voyage were taken from the inferior officers and foremast-men.

They now altered their course, and on the 13th saw the islands of Timoun, Aros and Pesang. On the 16th they crossed the equinoctial 111line, and came again into south-latitude. The next day they saw the islands of Pulo Toté, and Pulo Weste; soon after which they had sight of the seven islands. A singular incident happened in the succeeding night, which was very tempestuous, and so dark, that they could not see across the ship. During the full violence of the wind, a flash of lightning afforded them light enough to see a ship of considerable size, which was so near, that it was with difficulty they steered clear of her; but they could not get information to what nation she belonged, as the wind was too loud for them to hear each other. This was the first ship they had seen since they parted from the Swallow. In the morning they saw the Island of Pulo Taya, near which they came to an anchor in the evening; and the next morning sailed again, and saw two ships a-head of them, but the current was so strong that they lost ground, and therefore they again anchored in the evening. The next day they lost an anchor, the cable of which was cut away by the rocks. On the 22d they saw the coast of Sumatra, and came to an anchor in the road of Batavia, on the 30th of November 1767.

On the following day captain Wallis saluted the Dutch governor with 13 guns, and the compliment was returned from the fort with one additional gun. Permission having been obtained to purchase necessaries, they were soon 112supplied with beef and vegetables. The crew were now threatened with punishment, if any attempt should be made to bring liquor aboard; and no man was permitted to leave the ship, but those who were called by duty; and even those were not suffered to go into the town.⁠—The intemperate use of arrack is highly pernicious to strangers who visit Batavia.

His Majesty’s ship the Falmouth was at this time laying in the road, but in so shattered a condition, that it was thought she could not hold together during the next monsoon; nor were the few of her crew which remained alive in any better condition than the vessel. On the 5th of December captain Wallis received a petition from the warrant officers of the Falmouth, setting forth, that their powder had been thrown into the sea, by order of the Dutch, and that the gunner was dead; that their misfortunes had deprived the boatswain of his senses, and that he was then a lunatic in the Dutch hospital; that his stores were all spoiled; that the cook had been wounded, and remained a cripple; and that the carpenter was near death.⁠—They therefore petitioned that the Captain would carry them to England, or, at all adventures; dismiss them from the ship, as there was now nothing left for them to take charge of. Captain Wallis was obliged to refuse their request, however reasonable, and informed them, that as they had taken charge of stores, they 113must wait for orders from England. To this they answered, that they had not received a single order since they were left in the road of Batavia: that they had ten years pay due, and would rather go home sweepers, than remain in their present wretched situation. That they were never permitted to sleep on shore, and when sick, no person had the humanity to visit them: that the Malays frequently robbed them, and that they expected destruction at the hands of those people, as they had burnt the Siam Prize not long before the arrival of the Dolphin. They entreated the Captain to make their case known in England, which he readily promised to do.

On the 5th the Captain went on shore, to buy such stores as he thought necessary to carry the ship home with safety. He visited the different store-houses and arsenals; but the demands of the Dutch were so exorbitant, that he determined to make shift with such materials as he had, rather than be imposed on by people who wished to take every advantage of his necessity. Accordingly, he sailed on the 8th of December, without losing a single man, and having only two on the sick list.

On the 11th the crew began to be afflicted with colds and fluxes; and the following night they saw the Coast of Java, on which was placed an amazing number of lights, intended, as they imagined, to entice the fish near the beach.⁠—They anchored off Princes Island on the 14th, 114and began to take in wood and water; at which place they remained till the 20th, during which time they purchased turtle, poultry, and other refreshments.

While they lay here one of the seamen fell from the main-yard into the barge, which was a-longside the ship, and struck down two other men, one of whom was bruised so much that he died in four days; but the other escaped with a broken toe: the man who fell had several bones broken, and was otherwise shockingly bruised. They buried three men here, and many others were seized with fluxes, and putrid fevers; the contagion of which last disorder constantly attacked, in a day or two, those who attended the sick. At this time too the ship made above three feet water in four hours.

They struggled with these accumulated misfortunes till the 10th of January, when the sickness began to abate.⁠—On the 24th they encountered a dreadful storm, which tore the sails to pieces, broke a rudder-chain, and carried several of the booms over-board: yet, during this storm, they observed a number of birds and butterflies.⁠—On the 30th they saw land, and came to an anchor in Table Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope, on the 4th of February.

Captain Wallis having saluted the Governor, and the Commanders of some vessels in the harbour, and they having fired guns of salute in return, he lost no time in procuring fresh meat 115and vegetables for the use of the crew. The surgeon was sent on shore to hire lodgings for the sick; but as the rate demanded was very high, and as the small-pox (which many of the seamen had not had) raged prodigiously, the Captain obtained the Governor’s permission to erect tents on a plain about two miles from the town.

This being done, the sick were sent on shore; positive orders being given that no liquor should be brought to the tents; that no one should be permitted to go into the town; and that extra provisions should be procured for those who were most reduced by sickness. The Captain was so very ill, that, as long as the ship lay here, he was at a country-house several miles distant.

Every man who was able to do any kind of work, was now employed in the necessary repairs of the ship, which being nearly compleated by the 10th of February, several of the men, who had had the small-pox, were permitted to visit the town; and those who had not had that distemper, were allowed to take daily walks in the country; and as they did not abuse this liberty, it was continued to them as long as the ship remained there.

The necessaries which could not be purchased of the Dutch at Batavia, were bought reasonably at this place; and fresh water was procured by distillation, with a view to convince the 116commanders of the Indiamen that lay here, how easily wholesome water might be procured at sea. This method of distillation is as follows: 56 gallons of salt water being put into the still at five in the morning, thirty-six gallons of fresh water was obtained by about a quarter after ten; thirteen gallons and a half remaining in the still. This fresh water was procured at the expence of sixty-nine pounds of coals, and nine pounds of wood.

On the 25th all hands were ordered on board, when it was found that every man, except three, was able to do duty. A number of sheep were purchased for sea stores; and the ship sailed on the third of March.

On the 17th they anchored in the bay of St. Helena, and sent persons on shore to get water, and others to gather purslain, of which there is great plenty. The Captain going on shore, was saluted by the guns of the fort; and requested to make that place his residence during his stay on the island: but their water-casks being soon filled, and the wind serving the next day, they then sailed for England.

On the 28th they crossed the equinoctial line, getting once more into north-latitude. On the 24th they saw the Cape of Pico.⁠—On the 11th of May they had sight of the Savage sloop of war, captain Hammond, in chace of a sloop, at which he fired several guns. On this captain Wallis fired, and brought the vessel to, which 117proved to be laden with brandy, tea, &c. from Roscoe in France; she was of Liverpool, and was commanded by Robert Christian. Captain Wallis detained her, in order to her being sent to England; as she was judged to be a smuggler, pretending to be bound to Bergen, in Norway, tho’ she was sailing to the south-west.

No material incident happened from this time to the end of the voyage, which was happily compleated by the Dolphin coming to an anchor in the Downs on the 20th of May 1768.

118

## Captain CARTERET’s
VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD,
In 1766, 1767, 1768 and 1769.

Mr. Carteret having already circumnavigated the globe with Commodore Byron, was appointed to the command of the Swallow sloop, soon after his return to England; and, on the 22d of August 1766, sailed from Plymouth, in company with his Majesty’s ship the Dolphin, and the Prince Frederick store-ship.

Nothing material happened till the morning of the 9th of September, (when the ship lay in the road of Madeira) at which time nine prime seamen left the vessel privately, and swam on shore naked, having only their money tied in handkerchiefs round their bodies. While Captain Carteret was writing to the Consul to assist him in the recovery of these brave, but imprudent fellows, he received a message, that they had been found naked on the shore. A boat was instantly dispatched to bring them on board, where they cut a most ridiculous figure, and seemed heartily ashamed of what they had done: it appeared, however, that they had ran this risk only to get a skinful of liquor (as they said) knowing they were bound on a long voyage, 119and it being uncertain who might live or die. Captain Carteret endeared himself very much to the crew by pardoning these men, whose future services amply repaid this well-timed lenity.

It will be needless to recite any particulars which happened till the 11th of April, when the Swallow parted company with the Dolphin and Prince Frederick, as already related in the account of Captain Wallis’s Voyage. At nine o’clock on this day the Swallow had totally lost sight of the Dolphin, which Captain Carteret judged to be then clear of the mouth of the Streights; and as the Swallow was then under land, where she had not the advantage of any considerable breeze, they entertained no hope of seeing their consort during the remainder of the voyage.

At this time all the cloth, linen, cutlery wares and trinkets were on board the Dolphin; a circumstance which aggravated Captain Carteret’s distress, as he had not any thing proper to barter with the Indians; yet he encouraged the crew not to despair; and was happy to find that they were in high spirits for the voyage.

A few hours after the ships parted company, the Swallow encountered a violent storm, during which there was so thick a fog, that they could not see mountainous land which they were within half a mile of. At this time the boat was out in search of an anchoring-place; 120and when night came on, it was so dark, that they could not see half the length of the ship: they therefore hoisted lights, and fired a gun every half hour; and at length the boat reached the ship in safety. The next morning the boat was again sent in search of a place to anchor in, and in the afternoon, when the Captain despaired of her returning in time, he saw her sounding a bay, and instantly making towards her, came to anchor in safety.

The Captain now retired to rest, but he was disturbed in a few minutes by the shouting of the crew upon the deck, and the noise of those below running to join them. His fears brought him instantly on the deck, where he heard the universal cry of the Dolphin! the Dolphin! but this flattering appearance soon vanished, and proved to be only water forced up, and whirled in the air by a gust of wind from the mountains. Mr. Carteret says, that as the current sets continually into the harbour where they lay, he has no doubt but it has another communication with the sea to the south of Deseada. The borders of the bay abound with muscles and wild geese, and afford plenty of wood and water.

They sailed from this place early in the morning of the 15th of April, and soon afterwards, by the sudden shifting of the wind, they encountered so violent a storm, that they were in danger of sinking; yet they did not dare to take 121in any sails, for fear of running foul of some rocky islands, which in Narborough’s Voyage are called the Islands of Direction; nor could they go back into the Streight, without the danger of running foul of a lee-shore; yet, notwithstanding their best endeavours, the ship made hastily towards this lee-shore. Thus circumstanced, they were compelled to stave the water-casks on and between the decks, that she might carry better sail; and by this expedient they at length escaped the threatened destruction. They now got into the open sea, after a very providential deliverance, for, had the wind again shifted, the ship must have been unavoidably lost.

They now steered a northward course along the Coast of Chili; but as the water on board was deemed insufficient for the length of the voyage, the Captain proposed touching at the Island of Juan Fernandes, or Masafuero, to take in a proper quantity. On the 18th the wind, which had hitherto been favourable for their sailing northward, and consequently getting into a more temperate climate, suddenly shifted, and continued contrary till the 18th of April, blowing violently all the time, accompanied at intervals with dreadful thunder, lightning, rain and hail.

During this time they saw abundance of sea-birds, among which were two sorts, one like a pigeon, which the seamen called the Cape of Good Hope Hen; and the other Mother Carey’s 122Chickens; but the true name of these latter is the Peterel.

From the 27th of this month till the 1st of May they had continual storms; and on this day a prodigious sea laid the whole ship under water for some time, while the wind blew a hurricane, and the rain poured down in torrents. The wind now shifted, so that the head of the vessel came right against a mountainous sea, which repeatedly broke over the forecastle as far as the main-mast, so that it was almost a miracle that she was not sunk.

When the weather became something more moderate, they repaired in some degree the damage the ship had sustained during the storm; but they had much bad weather afterwards till the 9th of May, when they were in sight of the Island of Masafuero: and on the 10th they saw Juan Fernandes, and sailed round to Cumberland Bay, on the east-side of it.

The Spaniards having fortified this island (a circumstance till then unknown to Captain Carteret) a number of men were seen on the shore, and two large boats lying on the beach. A house and four pieces of cannon were observed near the sea side, and on the brow of a hill, at a small distance, was a fort with Spanish colours flying on it. Many cattle were seen on the hills, and above 20 houses on different parts of the island. The wind blew so strong out of the bay, that it was impossible to get 123very near it: they therefore sailed westward, and were followed by one of the Spanish boats; but she soon returned, on observing that the wind kept them out of the harbour. On the eastern side of the west bay they saw a kind of guard-house, with two pieces of cannon, on carriages, near it. They now returned towards Cumberland Bay, when the boat again put after them; but night coming on, they lost sight of her. As Captain Carteret had only English colours on board, he did not hoist any during all this time.

Thus disappointed of the refreshments they so very much wanted, they sailed for Masafuero, where they anchored on the 12th, but were unable to land, as the beach was full of rocks, and the surf ran so violently, that the best swimmers could not get through the breakers: the next morning, however, the boats landed, and filled some water-casks.

On the 15th they anchored on the east-side of the island; but were driven from their moorings, and kept out at sea all night. In the morning the cutter was sent for water, and the ship got near the shore, where she soon received several casks, and sent the cutter back for more. The long-boat was likewise dispatched on this service, as well as to carry provisions to those on shore. In the afternoon the boats being observed running along the shore, the ship followed and took them in, but not without their 124sustaining so much damage by the violence of the sea, that the carpenters were obliged to work all night in repairing them.

On the 17th the cutter was again sent for water; and, when she returned, the Lieutenant reported, that the violent rains which had fallen in the night, had brought down such a deluge of water, that the people on shore narrowly escaped drowning, after losing several of the casks. Mr. Gower, the Lieutenant, having seen many rivulets of water produced by the rain which had fallen in the night, proposed to go and fill the casks; but he had not been long gone, before the weather began to wear a very threatening appearance, and it thundered and lightned to a degree beyond description. The ship now kept as near the shore as possible, and as it was grown quite dark, they were very apprehensive that the long-boat was lost, but she happily came a-longside just in time to prevent the destruction of her whole crew; for she had scarce been hoisted over the ship’s side a moment, before such a violent squall came on, as must inevitably have sunk her. Mr. Gower reported, that three of the sailors having swam on shore with the casks, just before the storm began, he was under a necessity, however unwilling, of leaving them behind, exposed, naked as they were, to thunder, lightning, rain and hunger.

These men returned to the ship, on the evening of the 19th, and gave an account how they had passed the melancholy interval.⁠—While 125day-light continued they hoped for an opportunity of regaining the boat; but when the darkness and cold of the night advanced, they began to consider how they should abide the inclemency of the weather; when necessity suggested an expedient that ingenuity might have sought in vain:⁠—they laid, alternately, each between the two other, thus procuring at once the partial comforts of a house and a fire. As soon as the day broke they proceeded by the sea-shore towards the tent: but being repeatedly impeded by high points of land, they swam round them, at such a distance, to avoid the rocks, that they were scarcely in less danger from the sharks: happily, however, they escaped every danger, and were received at the watering-place with a degree of pleasure that does honour to the humanity of their brother tars; part of whose cloths and provisions were instantly appropriated to feed the hungry and clothe the naked. When these men returned on board, they were indulged with a whole night’s rest, and the next morning were perfectly well. The reader will no doubt be pleased to be informed, that these were three of the nine men who swam ashore at Madeira, for a skinful of liquor.

This day such a quantity of fish was taken by the boat, with hooks and lines only, as was equal to the consumption of the whole crew. On the 20th the ship, which had been some time standing off and on near the shore, came again 126to an anchor, when the long-boat being sent out, procured, in a short time, an ample supply of fish. During the night, and all the following day, they had extreme bad weather; but, as soon as it became moderately calm, three seamen were sent on shore to kill seals, and make oil of their fat, for the use of the lamps.

On the 22d in the morning (after a stormy night) the boats being sent on shore, returned with a number of pintado birds, which were obtained from the inhabitants, who said that, when the wind blew briskly in the night, these birds flew into the fire in amazing numbers; so that they catched several hundreds the preceding night. On the 23d as much water was got off as the weather would permit of, but several casks were lost by the violence of the surf. The weather now grew so bad that the Captain was impatient to sail: he therefore gave orders for all the people on shore to come on board. At this time the ship drove from her moorings, dragging the anchor after her, till she got into deep water. They now lay to under bare poles, waiting for the boats, while the violence of the wind carried the water higher than the mast-head. In the evening the long-boat with ten of the men were taken on board; but there yet remained the cutter, with the Lieutenant and eighteen men. The weather becoming more moderate about midnight, the ship stood in for land, and at ten the next morning was 127near the shore, but the cutter was not to be seen; about noon however she was discovered close under land, and in three hours time her crew got on board. These people endeavoured to come off in the evening, but had no sooner left the shore than their cutter was almost filled with water, and narrowly escaped sinking: at length she regained the shore, where she remained all night: in the morning it was concluded, that the ship had perished in the storm, and the crew, having taken proper methods to secure the boat, proposed to wait till the summer, when they hoped she might be able to carry them to the Island of Juan Fernandes:⁠—but these thoughts were now lost in the joy of their happy deliverance.

The island of Masafuero is of a triangular form, about 22 miles in circumference, and, at a distance, has the appearance of a single rock; there is good anchorage on many parts of the coast, and the island abounds with goats. Wood and water are plenty, but difficult to be procured, on account of the violence of the surf. Cod, hallibut, coal-fish, and cray-fish are to be catched in great numbers; and seals are so numerous, that Captain Carteret thinks, the killing of thousands could make no apparent difference in their numbers. The mountain cabbage grows on the island, which likewise abounds in birds, among which are hawks of a very large size.

128Captain Carteret having left the Island of Masafuero, sailed to the north, with the hope of getting the south-east trade-wind; and, having got more to the north than he first proposed, he looked out for the Islands of St. Ambrose and St. Felix, which he missed through the erroneous printed accounts of their latitudes and longitudes. They likewise searched for the continent, which in the charts is called Davis’s Land; but which Mr. Carteret gives many reasons for supposing has no existence.

This search was continued till the 17th of June, which is the depth of winter, when the weather was dark and cold, with sleet, rain, thunder and lightning. The gloom was so constant, that they had seldom sun-shine enough to make an observation, yet were necessitated to carry all the sail possible, that they might not perish with hunger before the ship should reach some port, where they might procure a supply of necessaries.

On the 2d of July they discovered an island, which was well clothed with trees, and down the side of which ran a stream of fresh water. It appeared to be about five miles in circumference, and was called Pitcairn’s Island, from the name of a young gentleman who first saw it.

On the 4th the ship admitted a great quantity of water, and was otherwise in a very shattered condition, from the rough seas she had encountered. 129The crew now likewise began to be much afflicted with the scurvy; though they were, happily, well supplied with water, an abundance of the rain-water being catched by means of an awning lined with painted canvas.

On the 11th Captain Carteret gave the name of the Bishop of Osnaburgh’s Island, to a low piece of land discovered this day, which was well cloathed with verdure. On the 12th they saw two other small islands, on one of which the boat’s crew landed, and found birds so tame, as to be taken without the least difficulty. The other island was about 15 miles distance; but neither of them afforded either water or vegetables. They were called the Duke of Gloucester’s Islands; and Captain Carteret supposes them to be the same land which was seen by Quiros.

From this period till the 22d of the month they had alternate storms and calms; and on this day judged themselves five thousand four hundred miles from the continent of America; yet in all this run they had seen no signs of a southern continent.

As the scurvy was now daily encreasing among the seamen; and as the weather was bad, and the ship in a crazy condition, the Captain determined to steer such a course as might most probably tend to the preservation of the vessel and the crew. In consequence of this resolution he stood to the northward, in the hope of having 130the advantage of the trade-wind, and reaching some island, where he might be furnished with the necessary refreshments.

On the 25th they saw great flocks of birds, which induced them to think that they were near land, but they could not discover any. On the 3d of August great numbers of sea-birds were seen; and on this day the current was observed to set strongly to the southward, though it had hitherto ran in a contrary direction; whence the Captain concluded, that the passage between New Zealand and New Holland opened in this latitude, which was ten degrees eighteen minutes south, and the longitude 177 degrees 30 minutes east.

On the 10th of this month the ship sprung a leak, in a part which they could not come at to repair; so that their situation was truly alarming; but two days afterwards they discovered land, which gave fresh spirits to the almost desponding crew. The Captain observed seven islands, and sailed towards two of them, which lay very near together: in the evening they came to an anchor near the largest of them, on which were seen two of the natives, who were negroes, with woolly heads, and wore no kind of clothing.

A boat being sent on shore, an account was brought back that there was fine fresh water opposite where the ship lay, but that it would be difficult to procure it, as the whole country was covered 131with thick wood quite to the sea shore. This circumstance, added to the danger there might be of the natives attacking them from the woods, determined the Captain to look for a more convenient anchoring-place.⁠—On the day following, therefore, the cutter, with the master and a party of seamen, was sent to the westward, to search for a place to procure wood and water, to seek for refreshments for the sick, and to discover a place where the ship might be repaired. He received orders to be strictly on his guard against any attack from the natives, and took with him a few trinkets that happened to be on board, to procure their good will. The longboat being likewise sent off, she soon returned laden with water: she was dispatched a second time, but the people on board the ship observing some of the natives advancing to the landing-place, a signal was made for her to return.

Soon after this three of the Indians sat down on the shore, looking stedfastly at the ship for several hours. The Lieutenant was now sent towards them; but, when they saw the boat approaching, they moved along the coast, where they were soon met by three others. When they had conferred together, the former went on, while the latter advanced hastily towards the boat. This being observed from the ship, a signal was made for the boat’s crew to act with caution. The Lieutenant now proceeded to the shore, and offered his presents to the Indians, 132who, regardless of his trinkets, discharged their arrows, and immediately ran off; though the boat’s crew received no injury, they fired at the natives; but these, likewise, escaped unhurt.

In a short time after this the cutter came on board; the Master, who commanded her, having three arrows sticking in his body. The account he gave of his expedition was, in substance, as follows. Being arrived at a place about fifteen miles from the ship, he saw some houses, but only a very few of the natives, and landed with four of the crew well armed: the first fears of the Indians being dispelled, they accepted his presents with pleasure, and, in return, gave him some fish, yams, and cocoa-nuts. He then went to the houses; but soon observing a number of the natives among the trees, and several canoes coming round a point, he hastened towards the boat; but before he could embark, a general attack with bows and arrows was made, as well on those in the boat, as on those on shore. Thus situated, the crew fired repeatedly, killing and wounding many of the Indians: still however the latter continued the fight, some of them running into the water as high as the breast; and when the boat got farther off she was pursued by the canoes, which did not retreat till one of them was sunk, and many of the people in the others were killed.

133Some of the crew gave an account of this transaction less favourable to the Master than his own: they said, that the Indians behaved in the most friendly manner, till he exasperated them by cutting down a cocoa-nut tree, after they had strongly intimated their wishes that he would not destroy it. The instant the tree fell they all left the spot but one man, but they were soon observed to assemble in great numbers among the trees; on which a Midshipman entreated the Master to go on board; but he slighted the advice, nor even retired till the attack was commenced. The Master and three of the seamen died of the wounds received from the arrows of the Indians.

The Captain now determined to attempt the reparation of the ship in her present situation; and succeeded so far that the leak was greatly reduced. On the 14th the wind setting full into the bay, the ship was driven near the shore, and many of the Indians were observed in the woods, as if in expectation of her running a-ground.

On the 15th a party was sent on shore to get water, a shot having been previously fired into the woods, to disperse any of the natives that might be lurking in them. The Lieutenant was likewise dispatched in the cutter to keep the coast clear for the waterers, by repeated firings into the woods; yet, in spite of these precautions, a flight of arrows was soon discharged among 134them, by which one of the seamen was dangerously wounded. The crew now incessantly fired to that part of the wood from whence the arrows came; but the Captain made a signal for the boats to come off; and as soon as he had taken them on board, fired several canon into the woods; on which a great number of the natives left their retreat, and ran away along the shore.

In a short time another large party was observed on a point of the bay, at whom a ball being fired, it fell in the midst of, and dispersed them. The people now took in water with safety; but a constant firing was kept up, both from the ship, and from a party on shore; and it appeared that our countrymen had been dreadfully successful, for repeated groans, as of dying men, were heard from several places in the woods.

As the Master was now dying of the wounds he had received by the arrows; as the Captain and Lieutenant were so ill that their recovery was doubtful; and as there was no chance of procuring proper refreshments at this place, all intentions of pursuing the voyage farther to the southward were laid aside: the Captain, therefore, having named the place Egmont Island, and the harbour where the ship had lain Swallow Bay, sailed from it on the 17th of August 1767.

135On the same day an island was discovered, which received the name of Portland’s Island, four miles from which they saw an harbour, which was called Byron’s Harbour. Having sailed three leagues from the harbour, they had sight of the bay where the Indians had attacked the crew of the cutter. This was called Bloody Bay; on its borders were a number of houses well constructed, and one much longer than the others, which had the appearance of a kind of hall for the transaction of public business. In this place, which was well built, and covered with a kind of thatch, the Master and his party had been received by the natives, before the wanton cutting down of the cocoa-nut tree. A large number of arrows were hung in bundles round the room, the floor and sides of which were covered with matting. In this neighbourhood were many gardens, surrounded by stone walls, and planted with vegetables. Three miles from this village a large town was seen, in the front of which, towards the sea, was an angular kind of fortification, built of stone, and near five feet high.

About three miles from hence they saw a bay, into which a river empties itself, which they called Granville’s River, and it appeared to be navigable for small vessels far up the country. The point of this bay was called Ferrers’s Point; and from hence the land forms a large bay, near which is a considerable town, 136inhabited by an incredible number of people, who, while the ship was sailing by, came out of their houses, holding something like a bundle of grass in their hands, with which they appeared to stroke each other, running in rings, or dancing, all the while.

Sailing onwards a few miles they saw another point, which was called Carteret Point, on which was a large canoe, with an awning over it; at a small distance was another town, fortified as that before-mentioned. The inhabitants of this place likewise advanced before their houses, and danced as the others had done. The dance being ended, many of them came off in canoes towards the ship: but having got near enough to have a good view of her, they would advance no farther.

They soon saw another small island, which was named Trevanion’s Island, and the north part of it was called Cape Trevanion. Both the main land and this island abounded with inhabitants; and a boat being sent to sound the passage, they no sooner observed that she had left the ship, than several canoes advanced to attack her. The Indians having let fly their arrows, the boat’s crew fired, and killed one man, and wounded another. A gun laden with grape shot was at the same time fired from the ship, on which all the canoes pulled hard for the shore, except the one with the wounded man in it, which being taken to the ship, the surgeon 137was ordered to examine his wounds. One of this poor fellow’s arms was broke, and a shot had gone through his head; and the Surgeon being of opinion that the latter wound was mortal, he was placed in his canoe again, and with one hand rowed towards the shore. His canoe was formed only of the hollow trunk of a tree: he was a young fellow, almost as black as the negroes of Guinea; his features were good, his hair woolly, and he went quite naked.⁠—It may be fairly asked here, if it would not have been an act of humanity to have attempted the cure of this unfortunate youth, if it had been only by a single dressing, before he had been dismissed.

As they sailed along the shore they saw plantains, bananas, and cocoa-nut trees, and observed great numbers of hogs and poultry: but the Captain being yet very ill, and having not officers sufficient to direct the men in the common business of the ship, he had no opportunity of establishing a friendly traffick with the Indians; and was unable to obtain by force those refreshments which the crew became every hour more and more in want of.

Thus situated; unable to proceed farther to the south, and in danger of being too late for the monsoon, he gave immediate orders to proceed northwards, in hope of discovering the country, which Dampier has distinguished by the name of Nova Britannia.

138To all the islands they had now left, Captain Carteret gave the general name of Queen Charlotte’s Islands; and, besides those already mentioned, he saw several, which he named as follows, viz. Lord How’s Island; Keppel’s Island; Lord Edgcombe’s Island; Ourry’s Island; and Volcano Island; this last being so denominated from a smoke that issued from its top, which is of an amazing height, and shaped like a sugar loaf.

The canoes of the inhabitants are formed of the trunk of a tree hollowed, are large enough to contain ten or twelve people, and are furnished with out-riggers, but have no sails.

The people of Egmont Island are very expert at swimming and diving; and active and vigorous in a high degree. Their arrows are so sharp, and discharged with such strength, that one of them wounded a man in the thigh, after passing through the wash-board of the boat. The points of these arrows are flint, and no metal was seen among the natives. There are good harbours on the coasts of these islands, which likewise abound in rivers, and have some vallies, but for the most part they are mountainous, and covered with trees.

Captain Carteret sailed on the 18th of August, and holding a west-north-west course, he on the 20th discovered a small island, which was called Gower’s Island, the people of which did not differ in any thing material from 139those of the islands he had lately left. Some cocoa-nuts were here procured in exchange for nails; and the inhabitants had intimated, that they would furnish a farther supply the next morning but it was then found, that the current had carried the ship considerably to the south during the night, and brought them within sight of two other islands, one of which was called Simpson’s Island, and the other Carteret’s Island.

As both these islands were to windward of the ship, they sailed again to Gower’s Island, which abounds with fine trees, many of which are the cocoa-nut. A boat being sent on shore, the Indians attempted to seize her; and in return the crew made prize of a canoe, in which was a number of cocoa-nuts. The arms of the natives were spears, bows and arrows.

As a strong current set to the southward, they now steered a north-westerly course, because the bad condition of the ship, and sickness of the crew, would have rendered it impossible for them ever to have got to sea again, if they had been driven into any gulph or deep bay. On the 22d one of the marines fell overboard, and was drowned, notwithstanding every effort was used to save him.

The ship fell in with nine islands in the night of the 24th, which Captain Carteret supposes to be the same that were discovered by Tasman, and are named Ohang Java: eight of 140these are very small, but the other is more extensive, and they are all inhabited by blacks, whose heads are woolly, like those on the coast of Africa. The next day they had sight of an island covered with verdure, which was called Sir Charles Hardy’s Island, and from the number of fires that were seen on it, they supposed it to be inhabited. This day they likewise had sight of a large island, formed of three high hills, which took the name of Winchelsea’s Island. On the 26th they saw a large island to the north, which Captain Carteret imagines to have been the island of St. John, that was discovered by Schouten.

This day they were within sight of Nova Britannia, and the next morning the current drove the ship into a deep bay, which, in Dampier’s Voyages, is called St. George’s Bay. On the 28th they gave the name of Wallis’s Island to a small island in a bay, off which they came to an anchor, and were now 7500 miles due west from the main land of America. The cutter was sent out to catch fish; but not succeeding, she returned with a considerable number of cocoa-nuts.

On the next day, after great fatigue, they weighed the anchor, and sailed to a place which they called English Cove, where they immediately began to take in wood and water. They now attempted to catch fish with hooks and lines, but none of them would bite; nor were 141they much more successful with their nets: turtle likewise were very plentiful, yet they could not take any of them; but at low water they picked up some large cockles and rock oysters. From the shore they procured cocoa-nuts, and the cabbage of the cocoa-tree, which is crisp and juicy; this, when eaten raw, tastes like a chestnut; but, when boiled, has a more agreeable flavour than the parsnip. It was found to be excellent when boiled with portable soup and oatmeal. They likewise gathered some plumbs, which tasted like those of the West Indies, which are called Jamaica plumbs; and by this supply of vegetables, they had soon reason to rejoice in the blessing of returning health.

This island seemed to have been lately inhabited, as several wretched huts were seen, in which were the remains of fires, and the shells of fish, which did not appear to have been long catched: they had likewise a sight of two animals, which were supposed to be dogs. This place produces palm-trees of various kinds; aloes, canes, bamboos, rattans, beetle-nut, and the nutmeg-tree; with a variety of other trees, and many shrubs and plants of which the names were not known. In the woods was a large black-bird, whose note was not unlike the barking of a dog: there were likewise parrots, rooks, pigeons and doves: they also saw centipieds, serpents and scorpions.

142Having taken in wood and water, and repaired the ship in the best manner they were able, the Captain took possession of the country, with all the neighbouring islands, for the King of Great Britain. This was done by nailing on a lofty tree a piece of board faced with lead, on which was engraved the name of the vessel, and of the Captain, the time of entering and leaving the harbour, and a representation of the union flag of England.

They left this cove on the 7th of September, and anchored on the same day almost close to a grove of cocoa-nut trees, where they supplied themselves with the fruit and the cabbage in very great abundance; and called the place Carteret’s Harbour, which being formed by the main and two islands, one of them was named Leigh’s Island, and the other Cocoa-nut Island.

Nothing now remained but to attempt the reaching Batavia while the monsoon continued favourable: on the 9th of September, therefore, the anchor was weighed, and when they were about four leagues from land, the wind and current being both against them, they steered round the coast into a channel between two islands, which channel was divided by another island, to which Captain Carteret gave the name of the Duke of York’s Island, and near which are several smaller islands. To the south of the largest island are three hills of singular 143form, which were called the Mother and Daughters, one of which was supposed to be a volcano, from the large clouds of smoke that were seen issuing from it. A point they called Cape Palliser, lies to the east of these hills, and Cape Stephens to the west; north of which last lies an island, which took the name of the Isle of Man. The country in general is mountainous and woody, and was supposed to be inhabited, from the number of fires seen on it in the night. On the Duke of York’s Island the houses are situated among groves of the cocoa-nut tree, and form the most enchanting prospect.

Having brought to for the night, they sailed again in the morning, when some of the Indians put off in canoes towards the ship; but the wind being fair and blowing fresh, it was not thought prudent to wait for them. Steering north-west by west, they lost sight of New Britain on the 11th, and it being now found, that what had been taken for a bay was a streight, it was called St. George’s Channel, and the island on the north of it received the name of New Ireland. In the evening they discovered a large island, well clothed with verdure, which was denominated Sandwich Island, off this island the ship lay great part of the night, during which time a perpetual noise was heard, resembling the sound of a drum. When they had almost cleared the Streight, the weather falling calm, 144a number of canoes approached the ship, and, though they could not be prevailed on to go on board, they exchanged some little matters with the crew, receiving nails and bits of iron, which they preferred to every thing else that was offered them. Though the canoes of these people were formed out of single trees, they were between 80 and 100 feet in length. The natives are negroes, and their hair is of the woolly kind, but they have neither thick lips nor flat noses. They wore shell-work on their legs and arms, but were otherwise naked, except that their hair and beards were powdered with white powder, and a feather was stuck into the head above the ear. Their arms consisted of a long stick and a spear; and it was observed, that they had fishing-nets and cordage.

They now sailed west, and coming in sight of the south-west point of the island, it was called Cape Byron; near which is an island of considerable extent, which received the name of New Hanover. The Streight they had now passed was called Byron’s Streight, one of the largest islands they had seen, Byron’s Island; and the south west point of New Hanover, Queen Charlotte’s Foreland. On the following day they saw several small islands, which received the name of the Duke of Portland’s Islands.

When they had compleatly navigated St. George’s Channel, the whole length of which 145is about one hundred leagues; they sailed a westward course, and on the 14th of September discovered several islands. The next morning some hundreds of the natives came off in canoes towards the ship, and were invited on board by every token of friendship and good will; notwithstanding which, when they came within reach, they threw several lances at the seamen on the deck. A great gun and several muskets were now fired at them, by which some were killed or wounded; on which they rowed towards the shore; and after they had got to a distance, a shot was fired so as to fall beyond them, to convince them that they were not out of the reach of the guns.

In a short time other canoes advanced hastily from a distant part of the island; and one of them coming nearer than the rest, the people in it were invited on board the ship; but instead of complying with the invitation, they threw in a number of darts and lances. This assault was returned by the firing of several muskets, whereby one of the Indians was killed; on which his companions jumped overboard, and swam to the other canoes, all of which rowed to the shore. This canoe being taken on board, was found to contain a turtle, some other fish, and a fruit between the apple and plumb, of a species hitherto unknown to Europeans. These people were almost negroes, with woolly hair, which they powdered; and 146they went naked, except the ornaments of shells round their arms and legs.

Captain Carteret now coasted along the islands, to which he gave the general name of the Admiralty Islands. He describes them as having a most enchanting appearance, being covered with woods, groves of cocoa-nut trees, and the houses of the natives. The largest of these islands is computed to be above 50 miles in length; and he supposes that they produce many valuable articles, particularly spices.

They discovered two small verdant islands on the 19th, which were called Durour’s Island, and Matty’s Island, the inhabitants of which last ran along the coast with lights during the night. They had sight of two other small islands on the 24th, which were called Stephens’s Islands, and which abounded with beautiful trees.

On the evening of the 25th they had sight of three islands, the natives of which came off in canoes, and went on board the ship. They bartered cocoa-nuts for some bits of iron, with which metal they did not seem unacquainted, and appeared extravagantly fond of it. They called it parram, and intimated, that a ship sometimes touched at their islands. These people were of the copper colour, and had fine black hair; but their beards were very small, as they were continually plucking the hair from their faces. Their teeth were even and white, 147and their countenances agreeable; their activity was such, that they ran to the mast-head even quicker than the seamen. They ate and drank any thing that was given them; and had not the least degree of reserve in their behaviour. Their dress consisted only of a piece of fine matting round the waist.⁠—As the current carried the ship at a great rate, the Captain had no opportunity of landing, though the Indians offered, that some of their people should remain on board, as a security for the safe return of such of the seamen as might be sent on shore. One of the Indians, on finding that none of the crew were to land, absolutely refused to leave the ship, and was therefore carried to the island of Celebes, where he died. This man was named Joseph Freewill, and the largest of the islands was called Freewill Island; but the natives called it Pegan; and the names of the other two are Onata and Onello.

On the evening of the 28th they discovered an island from the mast-head; but they neither visited nor gave name to it. On the 12th of October they got sight of a small island, which was named Current Island, from the great strength of the southerly current; and on the following day they discovered two more small islands, which were called St. Andrew’s Islands.

On the 26th they had sight of land, which, on the day following, they knew to be the Island of Mindanao, and coasted the south-east 148part of it, in search of a bay described in Dampier’s Voyages; but they could not find it. A boat being sent out, found a little nook at the southern extremity of the island, near which was a town and a fort. The boat being seen from the shore, a gun was fired, and some canoes came out after it; on which the Lieutenant retreated towards the ship, and, when the canoes came in sight of her, they retired in their turn.

They now sailed eastward, and, on the 2d of November, anchored in a bay near the shore, whither the boats immediately went, and took in water; they saw no signs of that part of the island being inhabited, but a canoe being observed to come round a point of the bay, as if to watch their motions, the Captain hoisted English colours, in the hope of tempting her crew on board; but they only took a survey of the ship, and rowed off.

In the night a loud noise was heard from the shore, very much like the war-whoop of the savages of America; which, inducing Captain Carteret to think that the intentions of the islanders were hostile, he ordered up his guns from the hold, and made all preparations to repress force with force. The next morning one of the boats was sent on shore for water, while the other was held in readiness to assist in case of danger. As soon as the crew had landed, many armed men advanced from the woods, 149one of whom holding up something white, the Captain, who had no white flag on board, sent the Lieutenant on shore, with orders to display a table-cloth as a signal of peace. This being done, two Indians came down to the Lieutenant, one of whom addressed him first in Dutch, and then in Spanish, in which latter tongue he was with difficulty understood. His enquiries were, if the ship was a Dutch vessel; what number of men and guns she carried; if she had been to Batavia, or was bound thither; and whether she was designed for war or trade.

These questions being answered, he said they might go to the town, and he would introduce them to the Governor. The Lieutenant now desired that some armed Indians might retreat, and that the seamen might be permitted to fill water; which was readily granted. This being done, the Lieutenant presented the Indian with a silk handkerchief, and received a coarse neckcloth in return. The boats soon returned to the ship, with a good supply of water; and Captain Carteret was congratulating himself on the prospect which these amicable appearances promised, when he observed some hundreds of Indians, armed with targets, hangers, broadswords, pikes, bows, arrows and muskets, range themselves opposite the ship:⁠—they brandished their swords, and held up their targets, in token of defiance, at the same time discharging their lances and arrows towards the ship.

150Captain Carteret, still resolved to avoid coming to extremities if it were possible, and sent the Lieutenant again on shore, to display the table-cloth, as an ensign of peace. The natives seeing that the boat had reached the shore, yet that no person landed, one of them advanced, and beckoned them to come to the spot near where he stood; which the Lieutenant declined doing, as he would then have been within reach of their arrows.

The Captain having formed a resolution of visiting the town, sailed from hence the next morning, after having called the place Deceitful Bay: but the wind soon blowing violently in shore, he altered his resolution, and steered for Batavia.

The south of Mindanao is a fine country, interspersed with woods, lawns and plantations; and abounds with inhabitants, as do likewise its neighbouring islands. Captain Carteret was of opinion, that there were Dutchmen in the town, or persons in the Dutch interest, who, finding the Swallow to be an English vessel, had irritated the inhabitants against the crew.

On the 14th of November, 1767, they reached the Streight of Macassar, situate between the islands of Borneo and Celebes, to a point of which latter island they gave the name of Hummock Point; to the westward of which a number of boats were seen fishing on the 151shoals. They were in sight of two very small islands on the 21st, which are well clothed with verdure, and deemed by Captain Carteret to be the same that are called Taba Islands in the French charts.

On the 27th they crossed the equinoctial line, and got into southern latitude, at which time they found the current setting against them, and the tornadoes became violent. The crew was now diminishing by death, and weakened daily by sickness; so that there were hardly hands sufficient to navigate the vessel. On the 3d of December they had sight of the islands called the Little Pater-nosters, which lie something more than two degrees south of the line; but it was out of their power to land any where for refreshment, as the winds and currents were against them. Not a man on board was now free from the scurvy and when it was imagined that nothing could have aggravated their distress, they were attacked by a pirate in the middle of the night of the 10th of December. It was so very dark that they could not see their enemy, who attacked them with swivel guns and small arms but they returned the salute so warmly, that the pirate was sunk, and all her crew perished, after having wounded two persons on board the Swallow, and done some very trifling damage to the ship. The pirate had been seen in the dusk of the evening; and Captain Carteret afterwards heard that she belonged 152to a Freebooter, who had upwards of thirty vessels engaged in the dangerous business of piracy.

By the 12th of this month they had lost thirteen of the crew; and the death of thirty others was hourly dreaded. At this time too the westerly monsoon was set in, so that it was impossible to reach Batavia; and as they must speedily make some land, or inevitably perish, it was resolved to attempt the getting to Macassar, a Dutch settlement on the island of Celebes. On the 13th they saw several trees floating, and birds sitting on them: and two days afterwards they came to an anchor, at little more than a league from Macassar.

Late that night the Governor sent a Dutchman on board the Swallow, who was greatly alarmed to find that she was an English man of war, no such vessel having ever anchored there before; and so apprehensive of danger was the Dutchman, that he would not venture to enter the cabin. Very early the next day the Captain sent a letter to the Governor, requesting permission to buy provisions, and asking shelter for the ship, till the proper season returned for sailing to the westward. When the boat arrived at the wharf, not one of her crew was permitted to land; and on the Lieutenant’s refusing to deliver the letter, except to the Governor himself, the Shebander and the Fiscal (two officers of the town) came to him, and said that the Governor was sick, and that they came for 153the letter by his command. Though this sickness was believed to be mere pretence, the Lieutenant at length delivered the letter, which they took with them. When the boat’s crew had waited several hours in the burning heat of the sun, and without the least refreshment, the Lieutenant was informed, that the Governor had given orders to two gentlemen to wait on Captain Carteret, with an answer to his letter. While the boat lay off the wharf, it was observed that there was a great hurry on shore, all hands being engaged in fitting out such vessels as were proper for war.

Soon after the boat came back, Mess. Le Cerf and Douglas brought a letter, intimating, that “the ship should instantly depart from the port, without coming any nearer to the town; that she should not anchor on any part of the coast, and that the Captain should not permit any of his people to land on any place that was under the Governor’s jurisdiction.”

As the most forcible answer to this letter, the Captain shewed his dying men to the gentlemen, and again pleaded the urgent necessity of the case. They could not but see and feel the propriety of granting refreshments and shelter to persons in such a situation; but still, they said, their orders were absolute, and must be obeyed. Provoked at this treatment, the Captain declared he would anchor close to the town; and if they then refused him necessaries, that 154he would run the ship a-ground, and himself and his crew would sell their lives as dearly as possible. Alarmed at this declaration, they begged the Captain to remain in his present station, till the Governor should give further orders; and this he promised, provided that he had an answer before the sea breeze set in on the day following.

Early in the morning a sloop of war, and another vessel, with many soldiers on board, came and anchored under the ship’s bows. The Captain sent to speak with them, but they would not answer a single question: and as the sea-breeze set in at noon, he then sailed towards the town, the other vessels weighing anchor, and keeping even pace with him.

A vessel now approached from the town, in which were several gentlemen, among whom was the Mr. Douglas above-mentioned; but none of them would go on board till the Swallow had dropped her anchor. On their expressing some surprize that the Swallow had sailed from her former station, Captain Carteret told them, that he had only acted agreeable to his declaration to them the preceding day, in which he was fully justified by his present situation. These gentlemen brought with them two sheep, some fowls, fruit, and other provisions, which were highly acceptable.

After they had made several propositions, which Captain Carteret could not but reject, 155he again declared his resolution of putting his threats in execution, and to convince them that he was in earnest, shewed them the body of a man who had expired within a few hours; but who would probably have been then alive, if the refreshments had been brought in time. They now enquired if the ship had touched at the Spice Islands; and being answered in the negative, it was at length agreed, that she should sail to a bay at a small distance, where an hospital might be built for the sick, and where provisions were plenty, and that if any thing farther was wanted, it should be sent from Macassar.

This proposal was readily embraced, on the condition that the Governor and Council should ratify it, which they afterwards did. The Captain now enquiring why the two vessels had anchored under the ship’s bows, was told, that it was only to protect her from any outrages on the part of the natives of the country. Mr. Carteret had nothing to treat his guests with, but bad salt meat and rotten bread: but, during their treaty, a very elegant dinner having been dressed in the gentlemen’s vessel, it was served up on board the ship; after which they parted good friends.

An officer from the town coming on board the next day, the Captain applied to him to procure money for his bills on the English government. This he promised to attempt, and went on shore for that purpose, but, returning in the evening, 156brought word, that there was not a person in the town, who wanted to remit any money to Europe; and that the Company’s chest was totally drained: but this difficulty was at length surmounted, by an order to the Resident at Bonthain, who had money to remit to Europe, to take the Captain’s bills for any thing he should want.

On the day following Mons. Le Cerf, who was an Ensign, brought a pilot on board, to carry the ship round to Bonthain; and Le Cerf had the command of some soldiers, who were on board two guard-boats that attended the ship: and he was likewise to act as a check on the Resident.

All things being thus settled, they sailed early on the 20th of December, 1767, and anchored in the road of Bonthain on the following day. The guard-boats were now moored close to the shore, to prevent all communication between the ship’s boats and those of the country. Captain Carteret having attended the Resident, to settle the price and mode of procuring provisions, a house was appropriated to his use, situated near a small fort. This being fitted up as an hospital, the sick were landed and placed under a guard, which was commanded by M. Le Cerf, who would not permit them to go above thirty yards from the hospital, nor the natives to traffic with the seamen; so that the profits of traffic fell into the hands of the Dutch soldiers, whose gains were immoderate; so great, 157indeed, that some of them sold at a profit of more than a thousand per cent. after having extorted the provisions from the natives at what price they pleased. Captain Carteret having remonstrated with the Resident on the injustice of this procedure, he spoke to the soldiers on the subject; but this produced no good effect; and it was known that, after this, Le Cerf’s wife sold provisions at more than double the prime cost, while it was suspected that he sold arrack to the seamen.

On the 26th and 27th three vessels arrived, one of which had troops on board, destined for the Banda Islands; but their boats not being allowed to go on board the ship, the Captain prevailed on the Resident to purchase, for his use, four casks of salt provisions. Above one hundred sail of proas arrived at Bonthain Bay on the 28th.⁠—These vessels, which fish round the island, carry Dutch colours, and send the produce of their labours to China for sale.

On the 18th of January a letter from Macassar informed Captain Carteret, that the Dolphin, his old consort, had arrived at Batavia. Ten days after this the Secretary, who had been sent with Le Cerf, had orders to return to Macassar; on the 19th of February, Le Cerf himself was recalled; and on the 7th of March the largest of the guard-boats was likewise ordered back. On the 9th the Resident received a letter from the Governor of Macassar, enquiring 158when Captain Carteret would sail for Batavia, though he must know it could not be before the eastern monsoon set in, which would not be till May. All these were suspicious circumstances; and toward the end of the month it was observed, that a canoe frequently paddled round the ship several times in the night, and retired as soon as she was seen.

While every one was speculating on these matters, the Captain received a letter, informing him that a design was formed for his destruction; that the Dutch were at the bottom of this affair; but that the ostensible person was to be the son of the King of Bony, who was on terms of friendship with the Dutch, as they had often assisted him in attempts to reduce the inhabitants of the other parts of the island of Celebes, and had been as often repulsed. The pretended grounds for this proceeding were, that the English might form connections with these unsubdued natives of the island.

Whether the information contained in this letter was true or false, Captain Carteret put his ship in the best posture of defence possible. He even suspected that the Resident was privy to the horrid scheme; but he had afterwards reason to be convinced to the contrary: though it appeared that one of the Princes subject to the King of Bony, and a minister of that monarch, had been privately at Bonthain; but of 159eight hundred men, who were said to be there, no traces could be found.

On the 7th of May the Captain received, through the hands of the Resident, a letter from the Governor of Macassar, denying his having any knowledge of the above-mentioned project, and requiring that the writer of the letter might be given up; but this requisition was not complied with, as the Captain knew he would be equally punished, whether his information was or was not true.

At this place they purchased plenty of fresh provisions at moderate prices; and, among the rest, beef of an excellent quality. The bullocks of this place are those that have the bunch on the back; and it likewise abounds in buffaloes, horses, sheep, deer, and goats. The natives neither eat pork nor turtle; but they sold the latter, as well as other fish, to Captain Carteret.

Having taken in wood and water, they sailed hence on the 22d of May, and, steering along the shore, came to an anchor the same evening, between the islands of Celebes and Tonikaky. They sailed again in the morning, and at night saw the southernmost of the islands of Salombo. On the 26th they saw the island of Luback; and on the 29th a number of small islands called Carimon-Java.

On the 2d of June they had sight of the land of Java, and on the following day came to an anchor in the road of Batavia, after having 160with difficulty prevented the ship from sinking, by the constant working of the pumps, during her whole passage from Celebes. Having fired guns of salutation, the Captain attended the Governor, requesting permission to repair the defects of the ship; but he was directed to petition the Council.

The Council met on the Monday following, when the Captain sent a letter, stating the defects of the ship, and requesting permission to repair her. The time from this day till the 18th of the month was lost in altercations respecting the affair at Bonthain Bay; the Governor and Council insisting, that Captain Carteret should sign a formal declaration, that he believed the report of an intention formed at Celebes, for cutting off the ship, was false and malicious; and the Captain on his part resolutely persisting in his refusal to sign any such paper.

On the 18th the Captain learnt that orders had been given for repairing the ship at Onrust, whither a pilot attended her, and where she came to an anchor on the 22d of June; but as the wharfs were pre-engaged by other ships, the repairs did not commence till the 24th of July. On examination, the vessel was found in so very rotten and decayed a condition, that the Dutch carpenter would not undertake her repair, without shifting her whole bottom, till the Captain had certified under his hand, that what should be done was in consequence of his own 161express direction. This the Dutchman thought necessary, lest the ship should never reach England, and the blame consequently rest with him.

During Captain Carteret’s stay at this port, he frequently visited M. Houting, an Admiral in the service of the Dutch, a gentleman remarkable for his politeness and affability, from whom the Captain received several distinguishing marks of kindness.⁠—The Governor of Batavia lives with the state of a sovereign Prince. When he goes publicly abroad he is escorted by horse-guards, and has two black footmen who run before his coach. When any other coach meets that of the Governor, it is drawn on one side, and the persons in it get out to pay their respects; nor, if a coach is behind, must it be driven by the Governor’s, whatever necessity may require its greater speed. The like homage is paid to the members of the Council, only that the person does not quit his carriage, but salutes them standing in it; one black man, with a stick in his hand, runs before the coach of a member of the Council, and thinks himself at liberty to punish those who do not make a proper obedience.

It was hinted to Captain Carteret, by the landlord of the hotel where he lodged, that his carriage must stop, if he should meet the Governor’s, or those of the Council; but the Captain disdaining to pay a degree of homage to 162the servants of the States of Holland, which is not paid to the King of Great Britain, refused to comply; and when the black men were mentioned, he said he knew how to defend himself, and pointed to his pistols. In a few hours afterwards he was told, from the Governor, that he might act as he pleased.

Captain Carteret having engaged some English seamen, sailed from Onrust on the 15th of September, and came to an anchor off Princes Island, in the Streight of Sunda, on the following day. Having here taken in wood and water, they sailed on the 25th with a fine gale of wind, which held them during a passage of 700 leagues; and on the 23d of November they came to an anchor in Table Bay in the Cape of Good Hope. The Captain having received numberless civilities from the Governor and other gentlemen of this place, sailed on the 6th of January, and on the 20th anchored off the Island of St. Helena, from whence he again sailed on the 24th. On the 31st of January they anchored in a bay off the Island of Ascension, where they found an abundance of turtle, many of which were taken; and the ship sailed again on the following day.

It had been accustomed to leave on this island (which is uninhabited) a letter in a bottle, containing an account of the name and destination of any ship which might touch there; and with this custom Captain Carteret complied.

163On the 20th of this month a ship which had been seen the preceding day far to the leeward, but had out-sailed the Swallow in the night, tacked and stood towards her. A boat was sent on board, in which was a young officer, who, by many artful questions, endeavoured to learn from Captain Carteret all the most important particulars of his voyage; and this piece of ill manners was aggravated, by his inventing a tale to disguise those of his own voyage; for the vessel he had just left was no other than that of M. Bougainville, which was then returning from a voyage round the world. Captain Carteret learnt this circumstance afterwards from the Lieutenant; for the boat’s crew, which had brought the French officer on board, had discovered every secret to one of the English crew who spoke French. Happily, Captain Carteret had kept his own secret so well, that Monsieur Bougainville was not at all the wiser for the time he had lost in the negotiation of this illiberal business. The Frenchman learnt the name of the English ship from the letter left in the bottle at the island of Ascension.

Our adventurers had sight of the western islands on the 7th of March 1769, and came to an anchor at Spithead on the 20th of the same month, without meeting with any accident worth recording.

Considering the extreme unfitness of the Swallow to perform such a voyage; the length 164of time she was in doing it; the amazing dangers she escaped; and the apparently insurmountable difficulties she went through; to what can we ascribe her arriving safe in England at last, but the merciful interposition of a particular providence.

165

## CAPTAIN
COOK’s
VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD.
In 1768, 1769, 1770 and 1771.

Mr. Banks, a gentleman of considerable fortune in Lincolnshire, was induced to undertake this voyage from his natural curiosity, and invincible desire of attaining knowledge. He had already visited the banks of Newfoundland and Labradore, and was now happy in having an opportunity of observing the transit of Venus in the southern part of America. He accordingly engaged his friend Dr. Solander to accompany him in this voyage. This gentleman, who was born in Sweden, and educated under the celebrated Linnæus, had, from his extensive learning, been appointed to a place been appointed to a place in the British Museum, and given the greatest satisfaction in that capacity. Mr. Banks also took with him two draftsmen, one to delineate views and figures; the other to paint such subjects of natural history as might present themselves. He had besides a secretary and four servants.

166On the 26th of August, 1768, the Endeavour sailed from Plymouth, and on the 2d of September they saw land between Cape Finister and Cape Ortegal, on the coast of Gallicia in Spain. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander had, during this course, an opportunity of viewing many marine animals, hitherto unnoticed; among these was a new species of an angular figure, near three inches in length and one in thickness, having a hollow quite through it, and a brown spot at one end. Four of these animals were joined together; but upon being put into water they separated and swam about. They resembled a gem in brightness, and shone in the water with fine colours. There was another animal of a more beautiful and lively colour, which was not unlike an opal. About ten leagues from Cape Finister, various birds were observed, which had not been described by Linnæus.

The islands of Puerto Santo and Madeira were discovered on the 12th, and the next day they anchored in Fonchial road. In heaving the anchor, Mr. Weir, the Master’s mate, was carried overboard and drowned. Mr. Banks found at Madeira a tree, called by the natives Vigniatico, the Laura indicus mentioned by Linnæus. The wood of this tree can scarce be distinguished from mahogany, which induced this gentleman to believe, that the wood 167called in England Madeira mahogany, was the Laura indicus; as no mahogany is exported from this island. The only article of trade in Madeira is wine, which is made in the following manner; the grapes are put into a square wooden vessel, the size of which is proportioned to the quantity; then the persons employed take off their cloaths, get into the vessel, and with their elbows and feet press out as much of the juice as they can; in this manner the stalks are then tied together, and pressed under another square piece of wood, by a lever and a stone, to extract the remainder of the juice. A whole vintage is frequently spoiled by the bad grapes being mixed with the others, which the inhabitants obstinately refuse throwing out, as the quantity of wine is increased by them.

There are no wheel-carriages in this island; the only resemblance of them is a hollow board, that may be called a sledge, and which serves to carry their wine vessels. The soil is so rich, and there is such a variety in the climate, between the hills and plains, that there is no object of luxury which grows either in India or Europe, that might not probably be cultivated here. Walnuts, chesnuts and apples, flourish almost without culture upon the hills. The pine-apple, the mango, the guava and the banana, grow almost spontaneously in the town. The corn is large grained and fine, and it might be produced in great abundance; nevertheless, 168the greatest part of what is consumed is imported. The beef, mutton, and pork, are likewise remarkably good, particularly the first, which induced the Captain to take some on board. Foncho, which is fennel in Portuguese, gave name to the town of Fonchial, that lies in latitude 20 degrees 33 minutes north, and longitude 16 degrees 49 minutes west. It is seated at the bottom of a bay, poorly built, though extensive in proportion to the island; the streets are narrow, and very badly paved. In the churches there are great numbers of ornaments, with pictures and images of saints; the first are, for the most part, done by mere daubers, and the latter are cloathed in laced habits. A better taste prevails in some of the convents, particularly that of the Franciscans; here simplicity and neatness unite, and give us a very favourable idea of these good fathers. The infirmary is also a building that does honour to the architect, and is the most considerable edifice in the whole place. There are many very high hills; Pico Ruivo is near 5100 feet in height, perpendicularly from its base. These hills are covered round with vines to a certain height, above which there are great numbers of chesnut and pine trees, and above them various sorts of timber, so thick as to form forests. The Mirmulano and Paobranco, which are found amongst them, are unknown in Europe. The latter is very beautiful, and would 169be greatly ornamental in our gardens. The inhabitants are computed to be between 70 and 80,000; and the revenue arising from the customs is supposed to amount to 20 or 30,000 pound sterling per annum. Water, wine, fruit and onions, are here in plenty; sweet-meats are also to be had without any difficulty; but permission must be obtained from the Governor for poultry and fresh meat. The Endeavour sailed from Madeira September 19. On the 22d they saw the Islands of Salvages, northward of the Canaries. The chief of these islands was about 5 leagues to the south one half west. These islands appear to lie in latitude 30 degrees 11 minutes north. On the 23d they saw the Peak of Teneriffe, bearing west by south. This mountain is near 15,400 feet high. On the 29th they saw Bona Vista, one of the Cape de Verd Islands, lying in latitude 16 degrees north, and longitude 21 degrees 48 minutes west. From Teneriffe to Bona Vista they observed flying fish in great numbers, which appeared very beautiful, their sides resembling burnished silver. Mr. Banks went out in a boat on the 7th of October, and caught what is called a Portuguese man of war, together with several marine animals of the Molusca tribe. They had now variable winds, with some showers of rain; and the dampness of the air did great injury to their iron utensils. October 17019th Mr. Banks shot the black-toed gull, which has not been described by Linnæus. The dung of this bird is of a lively red.

They crossed the line with the usual ceremonies on the 25th of October.

When the Endeavour was, on the 28th of October, in the latitude of Ferdinand Noronha, and in longitude 32 degrees 5 minutes west, they looked out for the island, and the shoals which, according to the charts, lie between it and the main; but neither the island or the shoals could be discovered. On the 29th, in the evening, they saw the luminous appearance of the sea, mentioned by navigators: it emitted rays of light, resembling those of lightning. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, not being inclined to adopt any of the opinions that had prevailed with regard to the causes of this luminous appearance (such as its being caused by fish darting at its prey, by the putrefaction of fish and other inhabitants of the sea, and even by electricity) threw out a casting net, when they were confirmed in their suggestion, that it was occasioned by some luminous animal. A species of the medusa was caught, which resembled a metallic substance greatly heated, emitting a whitish light. Some crabs were brought up at the same time, which, though exceeding small, gave a very glittering appearance. These animals had hitherto escaped the observation of all naturalists.

171Provisions beginning to fall short, it was determined to put into Rio de Janeiro. They saw the coast of Brazil on the 8th of November, and spoke with the people on board a Portuguese fishing-boat, who informed them, that the land which they saw was to the south of Sancto Espirito. Mr. Banks bought some fish of the people in the boat, and was much surprised to find that they refused Spanish silver, and wanted English shillings.

Their interpreters, who were a Venetian and Portuguese, informed them, that the crew of the fishing vessel declared, they had not seen a ship for eight years; this however they supposed to be a mistake, as they spoke such imperfect English, that it was almost impossible to understand them.

On the 13th, in the morning, we made sail for the harbour of Rio de Janeiro. Mr. Hicks, the first Lieutenant, was sent before in the pinnace to the city, to inform the Governor, we put in there for refreshments and water, and to obtain a pilot. The pinnace returned without the Lieutenant, who was detained by the Viceroy till the Captain came on shore. When the Endeavour came to an anchor, a ten-oared boat filled with soldiers came up, and rowed round the ship, without any conversation taking place. Soon after another boat came up, with several of the Viceroy’s officers; they enquired 172whence the Endeavour came; what her cargo consisted of; her number of men and guns; and her destination. These and several other questions were justly answered without equivocation; when they apologized for detaining the Lieutenant, and the other steps they had taken, pleading its being customary.

Captain Cook went on shore on the 14th, and obtained leave to purchase provisions, on condition of employing an inhabitant as a factor: to this the Captain objected, but in vain, as well as to the sending a soldier in the boat every time she went from the shore to the ship. Having requested, that the gentlemen on board might remain on shore whilst they sojourned, and that Mr. Banks might go up the country to collect plants; these requests were peremptorily refused. Captain Cook judging the Viceroy imagined they were come to trade, the Captain endeavoured to convince him of his mistake, by acquainting him, that they were bound to the southward, to observe the transit of Venus over the sun; a very interesting object to the advancement of navigation, of which phenomenon he appeared to be totally ignorant. An officer was appointed to attend the Captain; this, which he was told was meant as a compliment, he would have declined; but the Viceroy was too polite to allow his dispensing with the honour.

173Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were greatly disappointed upon the Captain’s return, to find they were not permitted to reside on shore, and go up the country; and their chagrin was still farther increased, to hear they were not allowed even to leave the ship; the Viceroy having ordered, that only the Captain, and such sailors as were necessary to be upon duty, should be suffered to come on shore; probably its being reported, that these gentlemen came upon this voyage to make discoveries and observations, and possessed extraordinary abilities for such business, might occasion these rigid orders. They attempted, nevertheless, to come on shore, but were prevented by the guard-boat; though several of the crew, unknown to the centinel, stole out of the cabin window at midnight, letting themselves down by a rope into the boat, and driving away by the tide till they were out of hearing; they then rowed to some unfrequented part of the shore, where they landed, and made excursions up the country, though not so far as they could have wished. When the Captain went on shore to remonstrate with the Viceroy respecting these restrictions, the only answer that could be obtained was, that he acted in consequence of his Master’s orders. Thus situated, the Captain resolved to go no more on shore, rather than be a prisoner in his own boat, as the officer, who complimented him with his company, waited 174upon him both from and to the shore. It was now resolved to draw up two memorials to the Viceroy; one was written by the Captain, the other by Mr. Banks: they produced answers no way satisfactory. Captain Cook and Mr. Banks replied, and several written remonstrances and answers passed between them and the Viceroy, but to no purpose. The Captain judging it necessary, in vindication of his compliance, to urge the Viceroy to some act of force in the execution of his orders, he sent Lieutenant Hicks with a packet (on the 20th) ordering him not to allow a guard in his boat. The officer of the guard-boat finding the Lieutenant resolved to obey the Captain’s command, did not oppose him by force, but accompanying the Lieutenant on shore, went to the Viceroy, and acquainted him with what had passed, which induced his Excellency to refuse opening the packet, commanding the Lieutenant to return. He found a guard had been put on board his boat in his absence, and insisted upon the soldiers quitting it. The officer now seized the boat’s crew, and conducted them to prison, under an escorte; and the Lieutenant was sent back to the ship under a guard. When Mr. Hicks had acquainted the Captain with these transactions on shore, the latter wrote to the Viceroy, demanding his boat and men, and inclosed the memorial, which he would not receive from the hands of the Lieutenant. 175The bearer of this express was a petty officer, in order to avoid continuing the dispute about a guard, which a commissioned officer must have kept up. Having delivered his packet, an answer was promised.

In the interim, in a sudden gust of wind, the long-boat, with four pipes of rum (by the rope breaking that was thrown her from the ship) went a-drift windward of her, with a small skift of Mr. Banks’s that was fastened to her. The misfortune was still greater as the pinnace was on shore. The yawl was manned immediately, but did not return till next morning, when she brought all the people on board. From them Captain Cook learnt, that the long-boat having filled with water, they had brought her to a grappling, and quitted her, and falling in with a reef of rocks on their return, they were compelled to cut a-drift the little boat belonging to Mr. Banks. In this situation the Captain dispatched another letter to the Viceroy, acquainting him with the accident, at the same time desiring he would assist them with a boat to recover their own: this was accompanied with a fresh demand of the pinnace and her crew. His Excellency at length complied with both the request and demand; and the same day they fortunately recovered the long-boat and skift. In the Viceroy’s answer to the Captain’s remonstrance, he expressed some doubts of the Endeavour being a King’s ship, and accused the 176crew of smuggling. Mr. Banks’s servants had, its true, by stratagem, got on shore (the 22d) early in the morning, and remained till night, but brought on board only plants and insects. In Mr. Cook’s reply, he said he was willing to shew his Excellency his commission again, the Viceroy having already seen it; and that if any attempt to carry on a contraband trade should be repeated, desired his Excellency would take the offender into custody. Thus terminated the dispute.

Mr. Banks (on the 26th in the morning) artfully eluded the vigilance of the guard, and went on shore: he avoided the town, and passed the day in the fields, where the chief objects of his curiosity lay. The people behaved with civility, invited him to their habitations, and he purchased a young pig for eleven shillings, and some other things. But the next day it was reported, that search was making for him and Dr. Solander, which induced them to lay aside all thoughts of going again on shore.

Being prepared for sea, with water and provisions, they took on board a pilot the 1st of December, but the wind being contrary, they were prevented getting out. The next day a Spanish packet arrived from Buenos Ayres, for Spain, when the Captain politely offered to take Mr. Cook’s dispatches to Europe; and he accordingly sent, by that conveyance, all the papers that had passed between him and the Viceroy, 177leaving duplicates with his Excellency for his court.

The Endeavour did not get under sail till the 7th, when having passed the Fort the pilot was discharged, and the guard-boat quitted them at the same time. During the last three or four days of their remaining at Rio de Janeiro, the air was covered with butterflies, chiefly of one kind.

From the observations of the writer of the first account of this voyage, we have the following description of the town and country. Rio de Janeiro, is supposed to have been thus named on account of its being discovered on the festival of saint Januarius. The town, which is the capital of the dominions of the Portuguese, in America, borrows its name from the river Januarius.

It is situated on the west side of the river, from which it extends itself about three quarters of a mile. The ground on which it stands is a level plain; it is defended on the north side by a hill that extends from the river, leaving a small plain, which contains the suburbs and the King’s dock. On the south side is another hill, running towards the mountains which are behind the town. Some of its streets run parallel from north to south, and are intersected by others at right angles. The principal street is near an hundred feet in width, and extends from St. Benedict to the foot of Castle-hill; 178the other streets are commonly twenty or thirty feet wide. The houses adjoining to the principal street have three stories, but in other places they are very irregular, though built after the same manner as in Lisbon. In the town are four convents; the first is that of the Benedictines, situated near its northern extremity; this structure affords an agreeable prospect, and contains an elegant chapel, which is ornamented with several valuable paintings. The second is that of the Carmelites, which forms the centre angle of the royal square, and fronts the harbour; its church had fallen some time before, but it is again rebuilding in a very elegant manner, with fine free-stone brought thither from Lisbon. The third is that of St. Anthony, situated on the point of a hill on the south side of the town; before this convent stands a large bason of brown granite, in the form of a parallelogram, which is employed in washing. The fourth is situated at the eastern extremity of the town, and was formerly the Jesuits convent, but is now converted into a military hospital.

The Viceroy’s palace forms the right angle of the royal square: the palace, mint, stables, goal, &c. compose but one large building, which has two stories, and is ninety feet from the water. In passing through the palace, the first entrance is to a large hall or guard-room, to which there is an ascent of three or four steps. 179In the guard-room are stationed the body guards who attend the Viceroy, and are relieved every morning between eight and nine. Adjoining to the hall are the stables, the prison being in the back part of the building. Within the guard-room is a flight of stairs for ascending to the upper story; this divides at a landing-place about half way, and forms two branches, one leading to the right, and the other to the left. The former enters a saloon, where there are two officers in constant attendance; the Viceroy’s aid-du-camp at the same time waiting in an anti-chamber to receive messages and deliver orders.

The left wing of the royal square is an irregular building, which consists chiefly of shops occupied by trading people. In the center of the square is a fountain supplied with water from a spring at the distance of three miles, from which it is brought by an aqueduct. From this fountain both the shipping and inhabitants are supplied with water, the place being continually crowded with negroes of both sexes waiting to fill their jars. At every corner of the streets is an altar. The market-place extends from the north-east end of the square along the shore; and this situation is very convenient for the fishing-boats, and those who bring vegetables from the other side of the river to market. Negroes are almost the only people employed in selling the different 180commodities exposed in the market, and they employ their leisure time in spinning of cotton.

Without the Jesuits college on the shore is a village called Neustra Seignora del Gloria, which is joined to the town by a very few intervening houses. Three or four hundred yards within the Jesuits convent stands a very high castle, but it is falling to decay. The bishop’s palace is about three hundred yards behind the Benedictine convent, and contiguous to it is a magazine of arms, surrounded by a rampart.

The gentry here keep their chaises, which are drawn by mules; the ladies however use a sedan chair, boarded before and behind, with curtains on each side, which is carried by two negroes, depending from a pole connected to the top of the chair by two iron rods coming from under its bottom, one on each side, and resting at the top. The inhabitants likewise use hammocks or rajas, supported in the same manner, and surrounded with curtains.

In this town the apothecaries shops commonly serve the purposes of a coffee-house, people meeting in them to drink capillaire, and play at back-gammon. The gentry when seen abroad are well dressed, though at home they are but loosely covered: the shopkeepers have commonly short hair, and wear linen jackets with sleeves. Beggars, who infest the streets of 181most European cities, are not to be found in this.

With regard to the women, it is on all hands agreed, that the females of the Portuguese and Spanish settlements in South America, are less averse to granting amorous favours, than those of any other civilized part of the globe. According to Dr. Solander’s account, as soon as the evening began, females appeared on all sides in every window, and particularized those of the male sex they liked by giving them nosegays; the Doctor and two other gentlemen received so many of these bouquets, that they threw handfuls away.

The climate of Rio de Janeiro is both agreeable and healthy, being free from many inconveniencies that are incident to other tropical countries. The air is but seldom immoderately hot, as the sea breeze constantly begins to blow about ten o’clock in the morning, and continues until night, when it is generally succeeded by a land wind, though this does not always happen. The seasons are divided into rainy and dry; though their stationary periods have lately become very irregular and uncertain: indeed the rainy seasons had almost entirely failed the four years preceding their arrival, at which time the rains had just begun, and they fell in large quantities during their stay: formerly the streets have been overflowed by the rain, and rendered impassable except with canoes.

182The adjacent country is mountainous, and chiefly covered with wood, but a small part of it appearing to be cultivated. The soil near the town is loose and sandy, but farther from the river it is a fine black mould. It produces all the tropical fruits, such as oranges, lemons, limes, melons, mangoes, cocoa-nuts, &c. in great abundance, and without much cultivation; a circumstance which is very agreeable to the inhabitants, who are very indolent.

The mines, which lie far up in the country, are very rich; but their situation is concealed, and nobody can view them, except those who work in them. The experiment is very dangerous, for every one found upon the road which leads to them is hung upon the next tree, unless he can give a satisfactory account of the cause of his being in that situation. About twelve months before their arrival, the government had detected several jewellers in carrying on an illicit trade for diamonds with the slaves in the mines; and immediately after a law passed, making it felony to work at the trade, or have any tools in possession, the civil officers having indiscriminately seized on all that could be found. Near forty thousand negroes are annually imported to dig in the mines; these works are so pernicious to the human frame, and occasion so great a mortality amongst the poor wretches employed in them, that in the year 1831766 twenty thousand more were draughted from the town of Rio, to supply the deficiency of the former number.

There are several courts of justice in the town, at all of which the Viceroy presides; in criminal causes the sentence is regulated by a majority of voices in the supreme court. The Viceroy has a Council appointed from Europe by the king, to assist him in his private department, where he has two voices.

The inhabitants of Rio de Janeiro maintain a whale-fishery, which supplies them with lamp-oil. They import their brandy from the Azores, their slaves and East India goods from their settlements in Africa, their wine from Madeira, and their European goods from Lisbon.

The current coin is Portuguese, which is struck here; the silver pieces are called Petacks, of different value; and the copper are five and ten ree pieces.

Rio de Janeiro is very useful for ships that are in want of refreshment; the harbour is safe and commodious, and may be distinguished by a remarkable hill, in the shape of a cone, at the west point of the bay. The entrance is not wide, but it is easy, from the sea breeze, which prevails from noon to sun-set, for any ship to enter before the wind. The entrance of the narrow part is defended by two forts, La Cruz and Lozia; they are about three quarters of a 184mile from each other. The bottom being rocky, renders it dangerous to anchor here, but this may be avoided by keeping the middle of the channel. The whole coast abounds with a very great variety of fish, among which are dolphins and mackrel.

On the 9th of December they took out of the sea an incredible number of atoms, of a yellowish colour, few of them more than the 50th part of an inch in length; it could not even with a microscope be determined whether they were animal or vegetable substances. These atoms tinged the sea in such a manner, as to cover it with broad streaks of a colour similar to themselves, the greatest part of a mile in length, and several hundred yards in width.

Thursday, December 8, 1768, having procured all necessary supplies, they left Rio de Janeiro; they did not meet with any material occurrence from this time to the 22d, when they discovered numerous birds of the Prosillaria genus, in latitude 39 degrees 37 minutes south, and longitude 49 degrees 16 minutes west; they were also frequently surrounded by great numbers of porpoises, of a singular species, which were about fifteen feet in length, and of an ash-colour. On the 23d they observed an eclipse of the moon; and about seven o’clock in the morning a small white cloud appeared in the west, from which a train of fire issued, extending 185itself westerly: about two minutes after they heard two distinct loud explosions, immediately succeeding each other like canon, after which the cloud soon disappeared.

On the 24th they caught a large loggerhead tortoise, weighing one hundred and fifty pounds. They likewise shot several birds, among which was an albetross, measuring between the tips of its wings nine feet and an inch; and from its beak to the tail two feet one inch and an half. On the 30th they ran upwards of fifty leagues, through vast numbers of land insects, some in the air, and others upon the water; they appeared to resemble exactly the flies that are seen in England, though they were thirty leagues from land, and some of these insects never quit it beyond a few yards. Captain Cook imagined he was at this time nearly opposite to the bay called Sans fond (without bottom) where it is supposed, by some writers, that the continent of America is divided by a passage; but it was the opinion of the gentlemen on board, that there might be a large river, which probably had occasioned an inundation. The 31st they had much thunder, lightning, and rain: this and the three following days they saw several whales, and likewise several birds, about the size of a pidgeon, with white bellies and grey beaks.

January 4, 1769, they saw an appearance of land, which they mistook for Pepys’ island; 186but on their standing towards it, it proved, what the sailors call a Fog Bank. The ship’s crew were about this time, on their complaining of cold, furnished with each a pair of trowsers, and a jacket made of the stuff called Fearnought. They saw on the 11th, after passing Falkland’s Island, at about four leagues distance, Terra Del Fuego. Smoke was perceived, which they took for a signal, as it did not continue after they had passed along the shore to the south-east. On the 14th they entered the streight of Le Maire; but the tide being against them, they were driven out with great violence, and the waves ran so high, that the ship’s bowsprit was frequently under water; at length however they got anchorage, at the entrance of a little cove, which Captain Cook called St. Vincent’s Bay.

The weeds, which here grow upon rocky ground, are very remarkable; they appear above the surface in eight and nine fathoms water; the leaves are four feet in length, and many of the stalks, though not more than an inch and a half in circumference, above 100. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander having been on shore some hours, they returned with more than a hundred different plants and flowers, hitherto unnoticed by the European botanists. The country in general near the bay was flat, and the bottom particularly was a plain covered with grass; here was plenty of wood, water and fowl, winter’s 187bark was found in great abundance. The trees are a species of the birch, but are neither lofty nor large; the wood is white, and they bear a small leaf. Here are also white and red cranberries.

Sunday 15, having anchored in 12 fathoms, upon coral rocks, before a small cove, distant from shore about a mile, two of the natives came down upon the beach, in expectation that they would land; but this situation affording little shelter, the Captain got under sail again, and the natives retired.

About two o’clock they anchored in the bay of Good Success, and the Captain went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to search for a watering-place, and confer with the Indians. These gentlemen proceeded about a hundred yards before the Captain, when two of the Indians having advanced forward and seated themselves, they rose, upon Mr. Banks and the Doctor’s coming up, and each of them threw away a small stick, which they had before in their hands; this they did in such a direction, that the sticks flew both from themselves and the strangers, which they meant as a token of peace, and a testimonial of their renouncing weapons; they then returned briskly towards their companions, who had remained at some distance behind, and made signs to the strangers to advance, which they accordingly complied with. The reception the gentlemen 188met with was friendly, though the manner was uncouth. The civility was returned, by the distribution of beads and ribbons, with which the Indians were much pleased. After a mutual confidence had been thus established, the rest of the English party joined, and a general conversation, though of a singular kind, ensued. Three of the Indians now returned with the Captain and his friends to the ship, whom they cloathed with jackets, and gave them bread, jerked beef, &c. part of which they eat, and carried the remainder on shore. They refused to drink rum or brandy, after tasting them, intimating by signs that it burnt their throats. This circumstance may perhaps corroborate the opinion of those who think water the natural drink of mankind, as of all other animals. One of these Indians made several long and loud speeches, though no part of either was intelligible to any of us. Another of them stole the covering of a globe, which he concealed under his skin garment. After remaining on board about two hours, they returned on shore, Mr. Banks accompanying them. He conducted them to their companions, who appeared no way curious to know what their friends had seen, and the latter were as little disposed to relate as the others were to enquire. None of these people exceeded five feet ten inches in height, yet their bodies appeared large and robust, though their limbs 189were small. They had broad flat faces, low foreheads, high cheeks, noses inclining to flatness, wide nostrils, small black eyes, large mouths, small but indifferent teeth, and black strait hair, falling down over their ears and forehead, which was commonly smeared with brown and red paints; and, like all the original natives of America, they were beardless. Their garments were the skins of guanicos and seals, which they wrapped round their shoulders. The men likewise wear on their heads a bunch of yarn, spun from the wool of guanicos, which falls over their foreheads, and ties behind with the sinews or tendons of some animal. Many of both sexes were painted in different parts of their bodies, with red, white, and brown colours; and had also three or four perpendicular lines pricked across their cheeks and noses. The women have a small string tied round each ancle, and wear each a flap of skin tied round the middle. They carry the children on their backs, and are generally employed in domestic labour and drudgery.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, attended by servants, set out from the ship on the 16th, in the morning, with the design of going into the country as far as they could that day, and returning in the evening. Having entered a wood, they ascended the hill through a pathless wilderness till the afternoon. After they had reached what they had taken for a plain, they 190were greatly disappointed in finding it a swamp, covered with birch, the bushes interwoven, and so inflexible they could not be divided; however, as they were not above three feet high, they stept over them; but they were up to the ancles in the boggy ground. The morning had been very fine, but the weather now became cold and disagreeable; the blasts of wind were very piercing, and a shower of snow fell. They nevertheless pursued their route, in expectation of finding a better road. Before they had got over this swamp, an accident happened that greatly disconcerted them; Mr. Buchan, one of the draughtsmen Mr. Banks had brought out, fell into a fit. It was absolutely necessary to stop and kindle a fire, and such as were most fatigued remained to assist him; but Messrs. Banks, Solander, Green and Monkhouse, proceeded and attained the spot they had in view. Here they found a great variety of plants, that gratified their curiosity, and repaid them for their toil.

Upon returning to the rest of the company, amidst the snow which fell in greater abundance, and being pinched with the cold that was now become more intense, they found Mr. Buchan much recovered. They had previously sent Mr. Monkhouse and Mr. Green back to Mr. Buchan, and those who remained with him, in order to bring them to a hill, which was conjectured to lie in a better track for returning 191to the wood, and was accordingly fixed on as a place of rendezvous. They resolved from this hill to pass through the swamp, which this way did not appear to be more than half a mile in extent, into the covert of the wood, in which they proposed building a hut and kindling a fire, to defend them from the severity of the weather. The whole party accordingly met at the place appointed about eight in the evening, whilst it was still day-light, and proceeded towards the next valley. Dr. Solander having often passed mountains in cold countries, was sensible that extreme cold, when joined with fatigue, occasions a drowsiness, that is not easily resisted; he accordingly intreated his friends to keep in motion, however disagreeable it might be to them; his words were, “Whoever sits down, will sleep; and whoever sleeps, will wake no more.” Every one seemed accordingly armed with resolution; but on a sudden the cold became so very intense, as to threaten the most direful effects. It was very remarkable, that Dr. Solander himself, who had so forcibly admonished and alarmed his party, should be the first who insisted upon being suffered to repose. In spite of the most earned intreaties of his friends, he lay down amidst the snow, and it was with great difficulty they kept the Doctor awake. One of the black servants became also weary and faint, and was upon the point of following the Doctor’s example. Mr. 192Buchan was therefore detached with a party to make a fire at the first commodious spot they could meet with. Mr. Banks, with four more, remained with the Doctor and Richmond the black, who, with the utmost difficulty, were induced to come on; but when they had traversed the greatest part of the swamp, they expressed their inability of going any farther. When the black was informed, that if he remained there he would soon be frozen to death; he replied, that he was so exhausted with fatigue, that death would be a relief to him. Doctor Solander said he was not unwilling to go, but that he must first take some sleep, notwithstanding what he had before declared to the company. Thus resolved, they both sat down, supported by bushes, and in a short time fell fast asleep. Intelligence now came from the advanced party, that a fire was kindled about a quarter of a mile farther on the way. Mr. Banks then waked the Doctor, who had almost lost the use of his limbs already, though it was but a few minutes since he sat down; he nevertheless consented to go on. Every measure taken to relieve the black proved ineffectual, he remained motionless, and they were obliged to leave him to the care of the other black servant and a sailor, who appeared to have been the least hurt by the cold, and they were to be relieved, as soon as two others were sufficiently warmed to supply their places. The Doctor 193was with much difficulty got to the fire. Those who were sent to relieve the companions of Richmond, returned in about half an hour, without being able to find them. What rendered the mortification still greater was, that a bottle of rum, the whole stock of the party, could not be found, and was judged to have been left to one of the three who were missing. There was a fall of snow, which incessantly continued for near two hours, and there remained no hopes of seeing the three absentees again, at least, alive. About 12 o’clock, however, a great shouting was heard at a distance, which gave inexpressible satisfaction to every one present. Mr. Banks and four others went forth and met the sailor, with just strength enough to walk; he was immediately sent to the fire, and they proceeded to seek for the two others. They found Richmond upon his legs, but incapable of moving them; the other black was lying senseless upon the ground. All endeavours to bring them to the fire were fruitless, nor was it possible to kindle one upon the spot, on account of the snow that had fallen, and was still falling, so that there was no alternative, and they were compelled to leave the two unfortunate negroes to their fate, making them, however, a bed of boughs of trees, and covering them very thick with the same.

As all hands had been employed in endeavouring to move the two blacks to the fire, and 194had therefore been exposed to the cold for near an hour and a half, some of them began to be afflicted in the same manner as those they went to relieve. Briscoe, another of Mr. Banks’s servants, in particular, began to lose his sensibility. They at length reached the fire, and passed the night in a very disagreeable manner. The party that set out from the ship consisted of twelve, of whom two were already judged to be dead: it was doubtful whether a third would be able to return on board; and Mr. Buchan, a fourth, seemed threatened again with his fits. The ship was at the distance of a long day’s journey, through an unfrequented wood, in which they might probably be bewildered till night; and being equipped only for a journey of a few hours, they had not provisions left sufficient to afford the company a single meal.

On the 17th in the morning, at day-break, nothing presented itself to view all around but snow, the trees being equally covered with it as the ground; and the blasts of wind were so violent and frequent, that their journey was rendered impracticable, and there was much reason to dread perishing with cold and famine. However, about six in the morning they were flattered with a dawn of hope of being delivered, by discovering the sun through the clouds, which gradually diminished. Previous to their setting out, messengers were dispatched to the 195unhappy negroes, who returned with the melancholy news of their death.

Though the sky had flattered their hopes, the snow still continued falling very fast, which prevented them beginning their journey so soon as was proposed; but a breeze springing up about 8 o’clock, added to the influence of the sun, began to clear the air; and the snow falling in large flakes from the trees, announced a thaw. The force of hunger prevailed over every other consideration, and induced them, after having equally divided the small remains of their provisions, to set forward on their journey about 10 in the morning.

In about three hours, to their great astonishment and satisfaction, they found themselves upon the shore, much nearer to the ship than their most sanguine expectations could have flattered them. When they took a retrospect of their former route from the sea, they found, that instead of ascending the hill in a direct line, they had made a circle almost round the country. The congratulations every one on board expressed at their return, can better be imagined than expressed.

On the 20th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went again on shore, and landed in the bottom of the bay, when they collected many shells and plants hitherto unknown. They returned on board to dinner, and afterwards went to visit an Indian town about two miles up the country. 196The access was difficult on account of the mud. When they approached the town, two of the Indians came out to meet them: they began to shout in the same unmeaning manner as they had before done on board the ship. After this had continued for some time, they conducted Mr. Banks and the Doctor to the town. It was seated on a small hill, over-shaded with wood, and consisted of about a dozen huts; constructed without art or regularity. They were composed of a few poles inclining towards each other, in the shape of a sugar loaf, which were covered on the weather-side with grass and boughs; and on the other side a space was left open, which served at once for a fire-place and a door. The huts that had been seen in St. Vincent’s Bay were of the same kind. A little grass served for beds and chairs, and their utensils consisted of a basket for the hand, a satchel to hang upon the back, and a bladder for water; out of which they drank through a hole near the top. This town was inhabited by a small tribe, consisting of about 50 men, women and children. Their bows and arrows were constructed with neatness and ingenuity: they were made of wood highly polished; and the point, which was either glass or flint, was fitted with much skill. Mr. Banks observed glass and flint amongst them unwrought, with cloth, canvass, rings and buttons, &c. it was therefore judged, that they travelled at times to the north, as no ship 197had touched at this part of Terra del Fuego for some years.

View of a Town in the Island of Terra del Fuego.

Neither did they testify any surprise at the sight of fire arms, and appeared to be well acquainted with their use. Probably the spot on which Mr. Banks and the Doctor met them, was not a fixed habitation; their houses not being erected to stand any length of time, and they were destitute of a boat or canoe. They did not seem to have any form of government among them, nor did there appear any kind of subordination. These people appeared upon the whole to be the out-casts of human nature, whose lives were passed in wandering in a forlorn manner over dreary wastes⁠—whose only dwelling was a wretched hovel, such as has been described, and their cloaths scarcely sufficient to prevent their perishing with cold in the summer of this country, much less in the extreme severity of winter; their only food was shell-fish, which must soon be exhausted at any one spot; destitute of every convenience arising from the rudest art, or even an implement to dress their food. Such were these people, who nevertheless appeared content; so little does refinement or luxury promote happiness.

They observed no quadruped animals except seals, sea lions and dogs. Mr. Banks saw, from a hill, the impression of the foot-steps of a large beast on the surface of a bog, but he could not determine of what kind it was. This gentleman 198observed no land-birds larger than an English black-bird, except hawks and vultures; there were however ducks, and other water fowl in abundance; likewise shell-fish, muscles, clams and limpets in great plenty.

It is remarkable, that in this country, though uncleared, there was no species of hurtful or troublesome animals. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander found a great variety of plants. The beach and the birch may be used for timber. The scurvy-grass and wild celery, it is imagined, contain antiscorbutic qualities; and may therefore be of service to the crews of such ships as hereafter touch at this place. The former is found in abundance near springs and in damp places, particularly at the watering-place in the Bay of Good Success, and resembles the cuckow-flower or lady’s-smock in England. The wild-celery resembles the celery in our gardens, but the leaves are of a deeper green. It grows in great plenty near the beach, and upon the land above the spring-tides; and tastes like parsley mixed with celery. In the morning of Sunday, January 22, Captain Cook having got in his wood and water, sailed out of the bay, and steered his course through the streight.

The generality of writers, who have described the island of Terra del Fuego, have represented it as covered with snow, and destitute of wood. In this however they are evidently mistaken, 199and their error must have arisen from having visited it in the winter season, when it possibly is covered with snow. The crew of the Endeavour perceived trees when they were at a considerable distance from the island, and on their nearer approach, they found the sea coast and the sides of the hills clothed with an agreeable verdure. The summit of the hills are barren, but the vallies are rich, and a brook is to be found at the foot of almost every hill; the water has a reddish tinge, but is not ill tasted, and was some of the best Captain Cook took in during his whole voyage.

The streight of Le Maire is bounded on the west by Terra del Fuego, and on the east by the west end of Staten Land, and is near five leagues in length, and as many in breadth. The bay of Good Success is seated about the middle of it on the side of Terra del Fuego, which presents itself upon entering the streight from the northward; and the south head of it may be distinguished by a land-mark, resembling a road from the sea to the country. It affords good anchorage, and plenty of wood and water. Staten Land did not appear to Captain Cook in the manner described in Lord Anson’s Voyage; the horror and wildness with which it is there depicted was not discernable to Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen; on the contrary, the land was neither destitute of wood nor verdure, nor covered with snow, and on 200the north side there appeared bays and harbours. This difference may also probably arise from their not having visited the place in the same season of the year.

Thursday, January 26, Capt. Cook sailed from Cape Horn. The farthest southern latitude he made was 60 degrees 10 minutes, by 74 degrees 30 minutes west. The weather being very calm, Mr. Banks sailed in a small boat to shoot birds, when he killed some sheer-waters and albatrosses; the latter were larger than those caught to the north of the streight; the sheer-waters were less, and their backs darker coloured. The albatrosses proved very good eating.

Notwithstanding the doubling of Cape Horn is represented as a very dangerous course, and that it is generally thought passing through the streight of Magellan is less perilous, the Endeavour doubled it with as little danger as the North Foreland on the Kentish coast; the heavens were fair, the wind temperate, the weather pleasant, and, being near shore, they had a very distinct view of the coast.

Wednesday, March 1, Captain Cook was in latitude 38 degrees 44 minutes south, and longitude 110 degrees 33 minutes west, as well by observation as by the log; which concurrence, after a course of 660 leagues, was judged very singular; from whence it was plain, he had no currents that affected the ship, and most probably 201had not approached any land of great extent, as there are always currents near lands of considerable compass. Mr. Banks killed more than sixty birds in one day, and he caught two forest flies of the same species, but never yet described: he also found a cuttle fish, which had just been killed by the birds; it was different from the fishes of this name, met with in the European seas, having a double row of sharp talons, resembling those of a cat, which issued or retracted at will. This fish made excellent soup.

Saturday, the 25th, on account of a squabble about a bit of seal-skin, which he had taken in a frolic, but which was represented to his officer as a theft, one of the marines, a young fellow about twenty, threw himself overboard, and was drowned.

About 10 o’clock, Tuesday, April 4, Peter Briscoe, servant to Mr. Banks, discovered land to the south, about three or four leagues distant. The Captain immediately hauled up for it, and found it to be an island of an oval form, with a lake or lagoon in the center, that extended over the greatest part of it; the border of land which surrounded the lake was in many places low and narrow, especially towards the south, where the beach consisted of a reef of rocks; three places on the north side had the same appearance. This dismembrance of the firm land, made the whole resemble several woody islands. To the west was a large clump of trees, and in the center two cocoa-nut trees. 202Captain Cook came within a mile on the north side, but though he cast a line of 130 fathom, he found no bottom, and could not meet with any anchorage. The island appeared covered with trees of different sorts, but the gentlemen on board could not ascertain any, with glasses, except palm-nuts and cocoa-nuts; there were several natives visible on shore; they seemed tall, with remarkable large heads, which might probably be increased by some bandage; their hair was black, and their complexions copper colour. There appeared along the beach, a-breast of the ship, some of these inhabitants, with pikes or poles in their hands, which seemed twice the height of themselves: they at this time appeared naked; but when they retired, upon the ship’s passing the island, they put on a covering of a light colour. Some clumps of palm-trees served them for habitations, and at a distance resembled hilly ground, and the groves had a very happy effect. This island was in latitude 18 degrees south longitude, 139 28 west, and was named Lagoon Island.

Captain Cook saw land again in the afternoon to the north-west. He reached it by sun-set, when it appeared a low island covered with wood, in form circular, about a mile in circumference. No inhabitants were visible, nor any cocoa-nut trees; though the Endeavour had reached the shore within half a mile, yet the island appeared covered with verdure of various tinges. This island, which is distant from that 203of Lagoon, about seven leagues north 62 west. The gentlemen on board named Thrumb Cap.

Wednesday the 5th they continued their course with a fine trade wind, and about three o’clock discovered land to the west. This was a low island between 10 and 12 leagues in circumference; it resembled in form a bow, the cord and arch forming the land, and the interstice marking the water; the beach was flat, without any visible herbage upon it, being covered with sea-weeds. Its length was between three and four leagues, and its width about 200 yards; the bow terminated with two large tufts of cocoa-nut trees; the arch was covered with trees of various heights, and of different verdure; some parts of it, however, was low, and resembled the cord. They sailed along the beach, within a league, till sun-set, when they judged they were half-way between the two tufts of trees; here they sounded. This island, from the smoke that was discovered, appeared to be inhabited, and it was named Bow Island. Captain Cook’s second Lieutenant, Mr. Gore, said, after they had sailed by the island, that he had perceived several of the natives under the first clump of trees, that he had discriminated their houses, and observed many canoes hauled up. But he was the only person who made these observations, though there were several upon deck besides himself.

About noon, on Thursday the 6th, they saw 204land again to the west, and at three o’clock they came up with it. This land seemed divided into two islands, or rather collections of islands, their extent being near nine leagues. The two largest were divided from each other by a streight of near half a mile in breadth.

Some of these islands were ten miles or more in length, but appeared like long narrow strings of land, not above a quarter of a mile broad; they seemed, however, to produce trees of different kinds, among which was the cocoa-nut tree. Several of the inhabitants came out in their canoes, and two of them appeared to have a design of coming on board; but they, with the rest, stopped at the reef. When Captain Cook had got about a league from the shore, he perceived some of the natives following in a canoe, with a sail: he did not think proper to wait for her, and though she had passed the reef, she discontinued her course. These people appeared to be about our size, and well made: their complexion was brown, and they seemed naked; they had, for the most part, two weapons in their hands; one was a thin long pole, with a kind of spear at the end; the other resembled a paddle; some of their canoes were constructed to carry not more than three men; others had on board six or seven; one hoisted a sail, which, upon the falling of a shower of rain, was taken down and converted into an awning. It could not be determined 205whether the signals made by the people on shore were designed to deter the Endeavour’s company from landing, or as an invitation to come on shore; these waved their hats, the others answered by shouting. The Captain did not judge it prudent or merciful to be convinced in this respect, as the island appeared of no importance, and the crew were not destitute of any thing it could produce; and as it must have proved a bloody contest on the side of the unarmed Indians. This curiosity was therefore laid aside, in expectation of soon discovering the island, where they had been directed to make their astronomical observations, the natives of which, it is reasonable to conjecture, would make no opposition to the landing of the gentlemen on board, having already experienced the danger of resistance.

Captain Cook discovered another island on the seventh, about six in the morning, which was judged to be in compass about five miles. It was very low, with a piece of water in the center, and appeared to abound in wood, and to be covered with verdure, but no inhabitants were visible. It was called Bird Island, from the number of birds that were flying about.

Saturday 8, in the afternoon, they saw land to the north, and in the evening came a-breast of it, at about five miles distance. This land seemed to be a chain of low islands, it was of an oval figure, and consisted of coral and sand, 206with a few clumps of small trees, and in the middle of it was a lagoon. It was, from its appearance, called Chain Island. They saw smoke, which arose from different parts, by which they were convinced it was inhabited.

On Monday the 10th, after a tempestuous night, Captain Cook saw Osnaburgh Island; it is called by the natives Maite. This island is high and circular, about four miles in circumference; it is partly naked and rocky, and partly covered with trees.

The same day, upon their looking out for the island to which they were destined, they saw land a-head. The next morning it appeared very high and mountainous, and it was known to be King George the IIId’s Island, so named by Captain Wallis, but by the natives called Otaheite. The calms prevented the Endeavour from approaching it till the morning of the 12th, when a breeze springing up, before 11 several canoes were making towards the ship; only a few approached, and the people on board those that came the nearest would not come on board Captain Cook. Each canoe had in it young plantains, and branches of trees. They were brought, as Captain Cook was afterwards informed, as tokens of peace and friendship, and they were handed up the sides of the ship by the people in one of the canoes, who made signals in a very expressive manner, intimating, that they desired these emblems of pacification 207should be placed in a conspicuous part of the ship; and they were accordingly stuck amongst the rigging, at which they certified their approbation. Their cargoes consisting of cocoa-nuts, bananas, bread fruit, apples and figs, which were very acceptable to the crew, and were then purchased.

In the evening they opened the north-west point, and saw York Island, so named by the crew of the Dolphin. They lay off and on all night, and in the morning of the 13th they entered Port Royal Harbour, in the island of Otaheite, and anchored within half a mile of the shore. A great number of the natives immediately came off in their canoes, bringing with them bananas, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, apples, and some hogs, which they bartered with the snip’s crew for beads and other trinkets.

The tree that bears the bread-fruit is about the size of the horse-chesnut; its leaves are near a foot and a half long, in shape oblong, resembling, in almost every respect, those of the fig-tree; its fruit is not unlike the cantaloupe melon, either in size or shape; it is inclosed in a thin skin, and its core is as large as a person’s thumb; it is somewhat of the consistency of new bread, and as white as the blanched almon: it divides into parts, and they roast it before it is eaten; it has little or no taste. An elderly man, named Owhaw, who was known to Mr. Gore and others, who had visited this island with Captain Wallis, came on 208board, and as he was considered a useful man, the Captain endeavoured to gratify all his enquiries. Captain Cook now drew up several necessary rules for the regulation of their traffic with the inhabitants, and ordered that they should be punctually observed.

When the ship was properly secured, the Captain went on shore with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, a party under arms, and their friend the old Indian. They were received on shore by some hundreds of the natives, who were struck with such awe, that the first who approached crept almost upon his hands and knees. He also presented to them branches of trees, the usual symbol of peace. This symbol was received, on the part of the English gentlemen, with demonstrations of satisfaction and friendship; and noticing, that while each of the Indians held one of these branches in his hand, they gathered some, and followed the example of the natives.

They were conducted by the old Indian, accompanied by his countrymen, towards the place where the Dolphin had watered; here the ground being cleared, the chiefs of the natives threw down their boughs, and the Captain and his companions followed the example, after having drawn up the marines, who, marching in order, dropped their branches upon those of the Indians. When they came to the watering-place, the Indians intimated, that they had 209their permission to occupy that ground, but it was not suited to their purpose. In the course of this walk, and a circuit through the woods, the Indians had got rid of their timidity, and became familiarized. On the way they received beads and other small presents, at which they expressed great pleasure.

The whole circuit was near four miles, thro’ groves, consisting of trees of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. Beneath which trees were the habitations of the natives, consisting of only a roof, destitute of walls. In this peregrination the gentlemen were not a little disappointed at finding very few fowls or hogs. Captain Cook was informed by such of the party as had been here with the Dolphin, that none of the people hitherto seen were of the first rank, and they imagined the Queen’s residence was moved, no traces remaining of it. Next morning, before they left the ship, several canoes came about her, filled with people, whose dress denoted them of the superior class: two of these came on board, and each of them fixed upon a friend; one of them chose Mr. Banks, and the other Captain Cook. The ceremony consisted of taking off their cloaths in great part, and putting them upon their adopted friends. This compliment was returned, by presenting them some trinkets. They then made signs for these gentlemen to go with them to the place of their abode; and the Captain being desirous 210of meeting with a more convenient harbour, and knowing more of the people, readily assented. Accordingly the Captain, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, with the Indians and other friends, got into two boats. About three miles distance they landed, among several hundreds of the natives, who conducted them to a large house. Upon their entrance they saw a middle aged man, named Tootahah, who, as soon as they were seated, ordered a cock and hen to be produced, which he presented to Mr. Banks and the Captain, as well as a piece of perfumed cloth; which compliment was returned by a present from Mr. Banks. They were then conducted with great civility to several large houses, constructed in the same manner as those already described; the ladies, so far from shunning, invited, and even pressed them to be seated. Whilst they were afterwards walking along the shore, they met, accompanied by a great number of natives, another Chief, named Tubora Tumaida, with whom they settled a treaty of peace, in the manner before described. Tubora Tumaida intimated, he had provisions for them if they chose to eat, and they accordingly dined heartily upon bread-fruit, plantains and fish.

In the course of this visit, Tomio, the wife of the Chief, placed herself upon the same matt with Mr. Banks, close by him, but she not being young, nor appearing ever to have possessed 211many charms; to these causes may be ascribed the little attention this gentleman paid her; and Tomio received the additional mortification of Mr. Banks’s beckoning to a pretty girl, who, with some reluctance, came and seated herself by him. The Princess was somewhat mortified at the preference given to her rival, nevertheless she continued her assiduities to him. This whimsical scene was interrupted by an event of a serious nature. Dr. Solander having discovered that he had lost an opera glass, they complained to the Chief, and interrupted the convivial party. This complaint was enforced, by Mr. Banks’s starting up and striking the butt end of his musket on the ground, which struck the Indians with a panic, and they all precipitately ran out of the house, except the Chief, and a few others of the superior class.

The Chief appeared much concerned at this accident; not, as we had reason afterwards to believe, that he had any aversion to knavish practices, but because he feared that this early instance of dishonesty might give us unfavourable suspicions of his countrymen, and thereby deprive him of those advantages and emoluments which they expected to gain from us, and which by various artifices they afterwards secured, when our connexion with them became more intimate. The chief, therefore, to obviate any disadvantageous impressions, gave us to understand, with an appearance of great 212probity, that the place which the Doctor had mentioned was not within his district, but that he would send to the Chief of it, and endeavour, if possible to have the glass recovered; but that if this could not be done, he would make the Doctor compensation, by giving him as much new cloth, of which he shewed large quantities, as should be thought equal to its value. The case however was in a little time brought, and the glass itself soon after, which deprived us of the merit we should otherwise have had in refusing the cloth which had been offered us. But it afforded an opportunity of convincing the natives of our generosity, by lavishing rewards on them for an action, to which self-interest had been the motive, rather than any sentiment of probity; to which, from numerous transactions, they appeared to be absolute strangers. After this adventure was amicably terminated, they returned to the ship about six o’clock in the evening.

Saturday the 15th in the morning, several of the Chiefs, one of whom was very corpulent, came on board from the other point, bringing with them hogs, bread-fruit, and other refreshments, in exchange for which they gave them hatchets, linen, beads and other trinkets, but some of them took the liberty of stealing the top of the lightening chain. This day the Captain, attended by Mr. Banks and some of the other gentlemen, went a-shore to fix on a 213proper spot to erect a small fort for their defence during their stay on the island; and the ground was accordingly marked out for that purpose. A great number of the natives looking on all the while, and behaving in the most peaceable and friendly manner.

Mr. Banks having suspected, from seeing few hogs or poultry in their walks, that they had, upon the ship’s arrival, been driven farther up the country, it was resolved to penetrate into the woods; some marines and a petty officer being appointed to guard the tent in the interim; several of the natives accompanied the gentlemen in this excursion. Upon crossing a little river Mr. Banks perceiving some ducks, fired, and killed three. The Indians were struck with the utmost terror at this event, which occasioned them to fall suddenly to the ground, as if they had been shot at the same time; they recovered, however, presently from their fright, and continued the march. Before this party had gone much farther, they were alarmed by the discharge of two pieces, fired by the tent-guard. Owhaw, after calling together the Captain’s party, dispersed all the Indians except three, who broke branches of trees as pledges of their fidelity. Upon their return to the tent, it appeared, that an Indian had taken an opportunity to snatch away one of the centinels musquets; whereupon a young midshipman, under whose command the party was, very imprudently 214ordered the marines to fire, which they did immediately amongst the thickest of the fugitive Indians, in number above a hundred, several of whom were wounded, but as the criminal did not fall, they pursued and shot him dead.

When Mr. Banks heard of the affair, he was greatly displeased with the guard, and he used his utmost endeavours to accommodate the difference; going across the river, and through the mediation of an old man, prevailed on many of the natives to come over to them, bringing plantain-trees, their usual signal of peace, and clapping their hands in their breasts, they cried, Tyau, which signifies friendship. In a short time they became social and chearful, and seemed, for the present, to have buried in oblivion the wanton acts of cruelty which had been so lately exercised on their fellow countrymen.

Few of the natives appeared next morning upon the beach, and not one of them came on board. From hence Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen concluded, that their apprehensions were not intirely removed, more especially as even Owhaw had forsaken them. The Captain, in consequence of these disagreeable appearances, brought the ship nearer to shore, and moored her so as to make her broad-side bear on the spot which had been marked for erecting the fort. The Captain went on shore in the evening, with some of the gentlemen, 215when the Indians assembled round them, and they trafficked together in a friendly manner.

Mr. Banks had the misfortune of losing Mr. Buchan on the 17th.

The same day they received on board a visit from Tubora Tumaida and Tootahah. As tokens of peace, they brought with them some plantain branches, and would not risk themselves on board till these had been received, being probably alarmed at the affair of the tent. They also brought some bread-fruit and a hog ready dressed: in return for which they received some nails.

The fort began to be erected on the 18th. Some of the company were employed in throwing up intrenchments, whilst others were occupied in cutting fascines and pickets, which the Indians of their own accord chearfully assisted in bringing from the woods. Three sides of the fort were fortified with intrenchments and pallisades; and on the other which was flanked by a river, the water-casks being filled, were placed so as to form a breast-work.

This day the natives brought down such quantities of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, that it was necessary to reject them, and to intimate to them, that the company would not want any for two days. Beads were trafficked this day for every thing. Mr. Banks’s tent being got up, he, for the first time, slept on shore. No Indian attempted to approach it the whole night; 216however, a precaution had been taken to place proper centinels about it.

Wednesday 19, Tubora Tumaida visited Mr. Banks at his tent, and brought with him, besides his wife and family, the materials for erecting a house, in the neighbourhood of the fort, where he designed to reside: some time after he had reached the tent, he requested Mr. Banks to accompany him back to the woods; on their arrival at a place where he occasionally resided, he presented him with two garments, one of which was of red cloth, and the other of very fine matting; in which, having clothed Mr. Banks, he conducted him to the ship, and with his wife and son staid to dinner: they had a dish served up, which was prepared by one of Tubora Tumaida’s attendants, not unlike in taste to what in England is called flummery; of this dish the natives seemed exceedingly fond, but the English could not relish it. Tubora Tumaida had likewise brought with him some food, which appeared like the flower of wheat; this being mixed with cocoa-nut liquor, and some hot stones put into it, was stirred about till it became a thick jelly; on tasting it, they found it of an agreeable flavour, not very inferior to good blanc mange.

Without the lines a sort of market was established, which was tolerably well supplied. Tubora Tumaida became Mr. Banks’s and the other gentlemens frequent guest; he adopted 217their manners, and was the only one of his countrymen who had attempted to use a knife and fork.

Mr. Monkhouse, the Surgeon, said he had seen, in his evening walk the body of the man who had been shot at the tent. It was deposited in a shed, close to the house where he had resided when alive, and others were within ten yards of it. It was in length about fifteen feet, and eleven in breadth, and the height was proportionable: the two sides and one end were partly enclosed with a sort of wicker-work, the other end was entirely open. The corps was deposited on a bier, the frame of which was wood, with a matted bottom, supported by posts about five feet high. The corps was covered with a matt, and over that a white cloth; by its side lay a wooden mace, and towards the head two cocoa-nut shells: towards the feet was a bunch of green leaves, and small dried boughs, tied together and stuck in the ground, near which was a stone the size of a cocoa-nut: here was also placed a young plantain-tree and a stone axe. A great number of palm-nuts were hung in firings at the open end of the shed; and the stem of a plantain-tree was stuck up without the shed; upon this stem was placed a cocoa-nut shell filled with fresh water. At the side of one of the posts, there hung a little bag with some roasted pieces of bread-fruit. The natives did not seem pleased at his approaching 218the body, their jealousy and uneasiness being very visibly depicted in their countenances.

The flies on shore were so very tormenting, that they were obliged to destroy them with musqueto nets and fly traps.

They had a specimen of the music of the country on the 22d; some of the natives performing on flutes, which had only two stops; they were blown like the German flute, but the performer blew with his nostril instead of his mouth: several others sung, only one tune, to this instrument.

A Musical Youth of the New Discovered Islands in the Habit of his Profession.
A Fly Fan

Some of the Indians brought the English axes to grind and repair, most of which they had received from the Dolphin; but a French one occasioned much speculation, and it at length appeared to have been left here by Mr. de Bougainville.

On the 24th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander made an excursion into the country, which they found to be level and fertile for about two miles along the shore to the eastward, after which the hills reached quite to the water’s edge, and farther on they ran out into the sea. After passing these hills, which continued about three miles, they discovered a large plain, abounding with good houses, inhabited by people who seemed to be in affluence. A very wide river issuing from a valley, added greatly to the beauty of this place: they crossed this river, and perceived the country to be again 219barren, which determined them to return; but just as they had taken this resolution, they were offered some refreshment by one of the natives, a man, as some authors describe to be, mixed with many nations, but different from them all, his skin being of a dead white, though some parts of his body were not so white as others; his hair, eye-brows, and beard were as white as his skin. The great joy of Tubora Tumaida and his women, who met them as they returned, is not to be expressed.

On the 25th several of their knives were missing; upon which Mr. Banks, who had lost his among the rest, accused Tubora Tumaida with having stolen it, which caused him to be very unhappy, as he happened to be innocent of the fact, Mr. Banks’s servant having mislaid it; and the rest were produced in a rag by a native. The Indian was some time before he would forget this accusation, the tears starting from his eyes, and he made signs with the knife, that if he had ever been guilty of such an action, as was imputed to him, he would suffer his throat to be cut. However, in general, these people, from the highest to the lowest, are the greatest thieves in the world.

On the 26th, six swivel guns were mounted upon the fort, which put the natives into great consternation, and caused several fishermen, who lived upon the point, to remove farther off, imagining they were to be fired at in a few days.

220The next day Tubora Tumaida, with a friend, a remarkable glutton, and three of his women, dined at the fort; after which he set out for his house in the wood. In a short time he returned in much agitation, to acquaint Mr. Banks, that the ship’s butcher had threatened to cut his wife’s throat, upon her refusing to sell him a stone hatchet, which he had taken a fancy to, for a nail. It clearly appeared he had been culpable, and he was flogged on board, in sight of several of the Indians. As soon as the first stroke was given they interfered, and earnestly intreated that he might be untied. This being refused, they burst into tears, and shewed great concern.

On Friday 28, one of Tubora Tumaida’s female attendants, came down to the fort in the greatest affliction, the tears gushing from her eyes, and full of lamentation. Mr. Banks seeing her, insisted upon knowing the cause; but instead of answering, she struck herself several times with a shark’s tooth upon the head, till she caused a great effusion of blood; while her distress was unnoticed by several other Indians, who continued laughing and talking with the utmost unconcern. After this, she gathered up some pieces of cloth, which she had thrown down to catch the blood, and threw them into the sea, as if she wished to obliterate her absurd behaviour. She then bathed herself in the river, and with remarkable chearfulness 221returned to the tent, as if nothing extraordinary had happened.

During the forenoon of this day, canoes were continually coming in, and the tents at the fort were filled with people of both sexes. Mr. Molineux, Master of the Endeavour, went on shore, and seeing a woman, whose name was Oberea, he declared she was the person he judged to be the queen of the island, when he came there on board the Dolphin in the last voyage.

The eyes of every one were now fixed on her, who had made so distinguished a figure, in the accounts that had been given by the first discoverers of this island. The person of the queen Oberea was of a large make, and tall; she was about forty years of age, her skin white; her eyes had great expression and meaning in them; she had been handsome, but her beauty was now upon the decline. She was soon conducted to the ship, and went on board, accompanied with some of her family. Many presents were made her, particularly a child’s doll, which seemed the most to engross her attention. Captain Cook accompanied her on shore; and as soon as they landed, she presented him with a hog, and some plantains, which were carried to the fort in procession, Oberea and the Captain bringing up the rear. They met Tootahah, who, though not King, seemed to be at this time invested with a sovereign authority. He immediately became jealous of the Queen’s 222having the doll; which made them find it necessary to compliment him with one also. A doll now was preferable to a hatchet, though it was not considered so long, as they soon were looked upon as trifles of little or no value.

The ship’s provisions seemed to be very acceptable to the men, but the women were shy of tasting any of them. They were solicited strongly, this day, to dine with the gentlemen; but they refused, and chose to partake of plantains with the servants; a mystery that could not be explained.

On Saturday 29, in the forenoon, Mr. Banks paid a visit to Oberea, who was still asleep under the awning of her canoe, whither he went with an intention of calling her up. Upon entering her chamber, to his great surprise, he found her in bed with a handsome young fellow, about five and twenty; upon which he immediately retired with some precipitation, not a little disconcerted at this discovery; but he was soon given to understand, that such amours were by no means considered scandalous, and that Obadie, the person found in bed with the queen, was by every one known to have been selected by her as the object of her lascivious hours. The queen soon got up and dressed herself to wait upon Mr. Banks. After dressing him in a suit of fine cloth, they proceeded together to the tents. Mr. Banks paid a visit in the evening to Tubora Tumaida, and 223was greatly surprized to find him and his family all in tears; he in vain attempted to discover the cause, and soon took leave of them. Upon his return he was told by the officers, that Owhaw had foretold that the guns would be fired in four days, and as this was the eve of the third day, they were alarmed at the situation they judged themselves to be in. In consequence of this intelligence they doubled the centries at the fort, and the gentlemen slept under arms. Mr. Banks, about two in the morning, went round the point, but finding every thing as he could wish, he dropt all suspicions of the Indians having hostile intentions, and dwelt quite secure, as the little fortification was now complete.

The next day, Sunday the 30th, Tomio came running to the tents, and taking Mr. Banks by the arm, to whom they applied in all emergent cases, told him that Tubora Tumaida was dying, owing to something which had been given him to eat by his people, and prayed him to go instantly to him. Accordingly Mr. Banks went, and found the Indian very sick. He was told, that he had been vomiting, and had thrown up a leaf, which they said contained some of the poison which he had taken. Upon examining the leaf, Mr. Banks found it to be nothing more than tobacco, which the Indian had begged of some of their people. He looked up to Mr. Banks, while 224he was examining the leaf, as if he had not a moment to live. Mr. Banks, now knowing his disorder, ordered him to drink of cocoa-nut milk, which soon restored him to health, and he was as chearful as ever.

On the 1st of May Captain Cook produced an iron adze, made in imitation of one of their stone ones, which had been brought home by Captain Wallis, and shewed it to Tootahah, who took such a fancy to it, that notwithstanding he was offered the choice of any of the things that were in his chests, he snatched it up with the greatest eagerness, and would accept of nothing else. The same day a Chief, who had dined on board a few days before, accompanied by some of his women, who used to feed him, came on board by himself, and when dinner was on table, the Captain helped him to some victuals, thinking upon this occasion he would condescend to feed himself; but he never attempted to eat, and had not one of the servants fed him, he would certainly have gone without his dinner.

In the afternoon they took the astronomical quadrant, with some other instruments, on shore.

On Tuesday the 2d, having occasion to use the quadrant, to their great astonishment and concern it was missing; this was the more extraordinary, as a centinel had been posted the whole night within a few yards of the tent in 225which it had been deposited; and it had never been taken out of the case in which it was packed. Their own people were at first suspected, imagining they might have mistaken the contents for articles used in traffic. They searched the fort and the adjacent places, and a considerable reward was offered, as the loss of this instrument would have rendered it impossible for them to have made the necessary observations respecting the Transit, one of the principal objects of their voyage. After every fruitless search had been made, Mr. Banks, accompanied by Mr. Green, and some other gentlemen, set out for the woods, where he thought he might gain some intelligence of the robbery, if it had been committed by the natives. In the course of their journey they met Tubora Tumaida, with a few of the natives, who was made by signs to understand, that some of his countrymen had stolen the quadrant, and Mr. Banks insisted upon being conducted to the place where it was concealed. Accordingly they proceeded together a few miles, and, after some enquiry, Tubora Tumaida received information of the thief, and that he was to be found at a place about four miles distant; as they had no other arms but a brace of pistols, and the spot for which they were destined was at so considerable a distance from the fort, they were not without some apprehensions of danger. They accordingly dispatched one of their company to 226Captain Cook, desiring him to forward another party after them; having laid an embargo upon all the canoes in the bay; a party accordingly set out, with the Captain at their head.

Mr. Banks and Mr. Green in the interim pursued their route, and at the very place which had been mentioned were met by one of Tubora Tumaida’s own people, with part of the quadrant; soon afterwards the box in which it had been packed, containing the other parts of it, was recovered; and, upon examination, though it had been taken to pieces, they had the satisfaction to find it had received no material injury.

In the evening, when Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen, with Tubora Tumaida, returned, they were very much surprized to find Tootahah confined in the fort, the gate of which was surrounded by the natives, who expressed the utmost dread and anxiety on the occasion, as they had no other expectation but it was intended to put him to death.

Upon enquiry into this affair, it appeared that the Indians were so much alarmed at Captain Cook’s going up into the country with a party of armed men, that in the evening most of them forsook their habitations near the fort; a canoe likewise attempted to leave the bay, which the Lieutenant, who commanded on board the ship, and had been ordered not to permit any canoe to go out, perceiving, dispatched 227a boat to detain her, but she no sooner came near them than they jumped into the sea; among this unfortunate number was Tootahah, who, being taken up, was sent by the Lieutenant to the fort; and the commanding officer thought it his duty to detain him.

He could not be persuaded that he was not to be put to death, till Captain Cook gave orders for him to be conducted out of the fort. He was received with great affection by the people, every one pressing forward to embrace him.

On Wednesday the 3d, in the morning, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander attended as usual to purchase provisions, but the Indians brought nothing to market; nor could they procure any from some fishing-boats which came a-breast of the tents, though they were in great want of cocoa-nuts and bread fruit. Mr. Banks walked into the woods, and heard great complaints from the people of the ill treatment of their Chief, who they said had been beaten, and otherwise ill used, of which Mr. Banks declared he was totally ignorant. The hogs which he had left as a present, were sent for back by the Chief, which, probably, he was of opinion they had ill-deserved. However, they would not send them till he came himself, by which means they thought to procure a reconciliation, knowing that absence would promote that coolness between them, to which the first 228interview might put an end, especially as they were told, the Chief did not intend coming to the fort for near a fortnight.

Their provisions now were extremely scarce, and the markets ill supplied, the people resenting the ill usage their Chief had received. The next day, with some difficulty, Mr. Banks obtained a few baskets of bread-fruit from Tubora Tumaida in the woods, which were a very seasonable relief. An axe and shirt were sent for this day by Tootahah, in return for his two hogs which they promised to bring him the next day. If they had not complied with this request, they could have scarcely procured any provisions.

After his sending again early in the morning, on Friday 5, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with the Captain, set out in the pinnace, taking one of Tootahah’s people with them, they soon reached Eparre, the place where he dwelt, which was but a few miles to the west of the tents.

Upon their arrival, they found great numbers of people upon the shore waiting for them. They were immediately conducted to the Chief, whilst the people shouted round them, Taio Tootahah, “Tootahah is your friend;” they found him sitting under a tree, and some old men standing round him. As soon as he had made signs for them to sit down, he asked for his axe, which Captain Cook presented to him, 229with a shirt and a broad cloth garment, with which he seemed greatly pleased; and put the garment on. After eating a mouthful together in the boat, they were conducted to a large area, or court-yard, on one side of his house, where an entertainment was provided for them, consisting of wrestling. The Chief sat at the upper end of the area, with several of his principal men on each side of him, by way of judges, from whom the conquerors received applause.

Ten or twelve combatants entered the area, and after many simple ceremonies of challenging each other, they engaged, endeavouring to throw one another by dint of strength; then seizing hold of each other by the thigh, the hand, the hair, or the cloaths, they grappled without the least art, till one was thrown on his back; this conquest was applauded by some words from the old men, and three huzzas. After one engagement succeeded another, but if they could not throw each other during the space of a minute, they parted either by consent, or the intervention of their friends. Several women of rank were present; but it was thought, they would not have attended this amusement, only in compliment to the English gentlemen.

A man with a stick, who made way for them when they landed, officiated here as master of the ceremonies, keeping order among the people.

230When this entertainment was at an end, they were informed, that some hogs and a quantity of bread-fruit were preparing for their dinner; which intelligence was the more agreeable, as their appetites were at this time exceedingly keen. But instead of dining either on shore or on board of the boat, they had the mortification of going as far as the ship by the desire of the Chief.

As soon as the Chief was known to be on board the ship, the people brought plenty of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other provisions to the fort.

On Monday 8, early in the morning, Mr. Molineux, the Master, and Mr. Green, set out in the pinnace to the eastward, in order to procure some hogs or poultry; but after proceeding a considerable way, and seeing many hogs and a turtle, they could not purchase either. They belonged to Tootahah, and the people told them, that they could not sell them without his consent; so absolute was the power of this man.

They were now obliged, for the first time, to bring out their nails to purchase provisions; for one of the smallest size, they obtained near twenty cocoa-nuts and some bread-fruit, so that they soon got great plenty.

On Tuesday 9, in the forenoon, Oberea paid them a visit, accompanied by her favourite 231Obadee; she presented them with a hog and some bread-fruit.

The forge being now set up and frequently at work, became not only a new subject of admiration to the Indians, but afforded the Captain an additional opportunity of conferring obligations on them, by permitting the smith, during his leisure hours, to convert the old iron, which they were supposed to have procured from the Dolphin, into different kinds of tools.

The natives, after repeated attempts, finding themselves incapable of pronouncing the names of the English gentlemen, had recourse to new ones formed from their own language, Mr. Cook was named Toote; Hicks, Hete; Gore, Touara; Solander, Tolano; Banks, Opane; Green, Treene; and so on for the greatest part of the ship’s crew.

As Mr. Banks was sitting in his boat, trading with them as usual, on Friday the 12th, a very extraordinary ceremony was performed by some ladies who were strangers, to whom the rest of the Indians giving way on each side, and forming a passage, they advanced in procession towards Mr. Banks, to whom they presented some parrots feathers, plantains, and other plants. They then brought a large bundle of cloth, consisting of nine pieces, which being divided into three parcels, one of the women, who appeared to be the principal, stepping on one of the parcels, pulled up all her cloaths as high as 232her waist, and then, with an air of unaffected simplicity, turned round three times. This ceremony she repeated in the same manner on the other two parcels of cloth, and the whole being then presented to Mr. Banks, the ladies went and saluted him; in return for which he made them such presents as he thought would gratify them the most.

The next evening Mr. Banks was under the disagreeable necessity of reprimanding, in very strong terms, Tubora Tumaida, for having the insolence to snatch his gun from him, and firing it in the air; a thing which surprised Mr. Banks greatly, as he imagined him totally ignorant of the use of it. And as their safety in a great measure depended on keeping them in that state, he told him, with threats, that his touching his piece was the greatest of insults. The Indian made no reply, but set off with his family to his house at Eparre. He being an useful man, Mr. Banks, accompanied by Mr. Molineux, thought fit to go after him, and they found him among a number of people, greatly dejected. However, as Mr. Banks judiciously caused all animosity to cease, they brought him back to supper; after which the Chief and his wife both slept in Mr. Banks’s tent. One of the natives, not intimidated by their presence, attempted that very evening to scale the walls of the fort, but was prevented by the centinel. These Indians 233could not resist making attempts to steal the iron and iron tools within the works.

Sunday morning the 14th, divine service was performed at the fort, in hopes that some of the principal Indians might be present, but most of them returned home before the time. However, Tubora Tumaida, and his wife Tomio, were present; they behaved with great decency, but without the least apparent curiosity. They made no enquiries with respect to the ceremonies, and their brethren were as little inquisitive upon their return. This evening several of their people were witnesses to an entertainment of a very extraordinary nature, which consisted of the most indecent acts of lewdness. For example, a young fellow cohabited in public with a girl about eleven or twelve years of age, without the least sense of shame; and what is still more extraordinary, Oberea, with several other females of the first rank, were present during the whole time.

On Monday the 15th, Mr. Banks detected Tubora Tumaida in having stolen some nails. Mr. Banks having a good opinion of this Chief, was willing to put his fidelity to the test, and several temptations were thrown in his way, among the rest a basket of nails, which proved irresistible. He confessed the fact, and upon Mr. Banks’s insisting upon restitution, he declared the nails were at Eparre; this occasioned high words, and at length the Indian produced 234one of them. He was to have been forgiven upon restoring the rest, but not having resolution to fulfil his engagement, he fled with his furniture and family before night.

On the 17th, one of the natives who came in the morning before day-light to steal some casks, it not being the first offence, the centinel snapped his gun at him, but it missing fire he escaped.

On Wednesday 24, Tootahah having sent many messages to request a visit from the Captain, declaring that he would acknowledge the compliment by a present of some hogs. Mr. Hicks the first Lieutenant was sent, in hopes of getting the hogs without the visit. He was received in a very friendly manner at a place called Tettehah, five miles farther to the westward, where Tootahah had taken up his residence. He brought away one hog only, which had been produced immediately upon his arrival, with a promise of receiving more the next morning; but, when morning came, he was obliged to depart without them. Mr. Banks, on the 25th, seeing Tubora and his wife Tomio at the tent, for the first time after he stole the nails, endeavoured to persuade him to restore them, but in vain. He was treated with great coolness during his short stay, and his departure was very abrupt.

On the 27th of May, Tootahah being removed to a place called Atahourou, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and some others, set 235out in the pinnace to pay him a visit; after making presents of a few trifling articles, they were invited to stay the night. Mr. Banks having accepted of a place in Oberea’s canoe, left his companions, in order to retire to rest. Notwithstanding the care Oberea took of his cloaths, by having them in her own custody, they were stolen with his pistols, powder-horn, and many other things that were in his waist-coat pockets. The alarm was given to Tootahah, who slept in the next canoe, and who went with Oberea in search of the thief, leaving Mr. Banks with only his breeches on, and his musquet uncharged. They soon returned, but without success; Mr. Banks thought proper to put up with the loss for the present, and a second time endeavour to sleep. But he had scarce composed himself, before he heard some musick, and perceived lights at a small distance from shore; this proved to be a concert, which they call Heiva. Mr. Banks judged it then necessary to get up and try to find his companions. As soon as he approached the lights, he found the hut, where Mr. Cook and three of his associates lay, and began to relate his melancholy tale; but instead of receiving much comfort from them, he was told, that they had shared the same fate, having lost their stockings and jackets. However, this did not prevent their hearing out the concert, which consisted of 236drums, flutes, and several voices, after which they retired to rest.

The next morning Mr. Banks got his musquet from Tupia, with whom he had intrusted it, and some cloaths from Oberea; in which he made a whimsical appearance. They then got together, and were joined by Dr. Solander, who was the only one among them that had not been robbed, having slept at a house about a mile distant. As to the others they were obliged to put up with their loss; their cloaths, &c. having never been heard of afterwards. They set out for the boat not very well pleased, carrying with them only one hog, which had been intended for their supper the night before.

In their return to the boat, they were greatly amused by seeing some Indians swimming for their diversion, amidst a surf, which no European boat could have lived in, or the best swimmer in Europe have saved himself from drowning, had he by accident been exposed to its fury. This extraordinary surf breaks upon the shore in a few places, where access to the island is not guarded by a reef, and makes it very dreadful and dangerous.

Some Indians from a neighbouring island, to which Captain Wallis gave the name of Duke of York’s Island, informed them of more than twenty islands in the neighbourhood of Otaheite.

They now began to make necessary preparations for observing the Transit of Venus, and, 237from the hints Mr. Cook had received from the Royal Society, he sent out two parties to make observations from different spots, that in case they failed at Otaheite, they might succeed elsewhere; they employed themselves in preparing their instruments, and instructing such gentlemen with the use of them, as were to go out. And on Thursday the 1st of June, the next Saturday being the day of the Transit, they sent the long boat to Eimayo, having on board Mr. Gore, Mr. Monkhouse, and Mr. Sporing, a friend of Mr. Banks; each furnished with necessary instruments by Mr. Green. Mr. Banks and several of the Indians went out with this party. Others were dispatched to find out a convenient spot, at such a distance from their principal station, as might suit their purpose.

Those who went to Eimayo in the long boat, after rowing the best part of the night, by the help of some Indians aboard a canoe, which they hailed, found a proper situation for their Observatory upon a rock, which rose out of the water about one hundred and forty yards from the shore, where they fixed their tents, and prepared the apparatus for the following day’s observation.

On Saturday the 3d, as soon as it was light, Mr. Banks left them to go to the island for fresh provisions. As he was trading with the natives who belonged to Tarrao, the King of the island, his majesty arrived with his sister, whose name 238was Nuna, in order to pay him a visit. It being customary among these people to be seated during their conferences, Mr. Banks spread on the ground his Indian cloth turban, that he wore instead of a hat, on which they all sat down. After this the royal present was brought, consisting of a hog and a dog, some cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, &c. A messenger was dispatched by Mr. Banks for an adze, a shirt, and some beads, and they were presented to his majesty, who received them with great pleasure. Tubora Tumaida and Tomio, Indians who had gone with Mr. Banks upon the expedition, came from the Observatory: Tomio, said to be related to Tarrao, brought him a long nail, and a shirt for Nuna, by way of presents. Mr. Banks returned to the Observatory with Tarrao, Nuna, and three beautiful young women, their chief attendants. He shewed them the Transit of Venus over the Sun, and informed them, that he and his companions had come from their own country solely to view it in that situation.

Mr. Banks receiving a Visit from the King of Duke of Yorks Island.

The produce of this island, according to the inspection of Mr. Banks, proved to be much the same as that of Otaheite, the people also resembling those of that island, many of them he had seen upon it, who were well acquainted with the value of the trading articles.

Both the parties which were sent out, made their observation with great success. They nevertheless differed in the accounts of the times 239of the contacts more than might have been imagined.

Mr. Green’s Account was as follows.

| Hours | Min. | Sec. |
--- | --- | --- | --- | ---
The first external contact, or first appearance of Venus on the Sun, was | 9 | 25 | 4 | Morning.
The first internal contact or total immersion was | 9 | 44 | 4 | Morning.
The second internal contact, or beginning of the immersion | 3 | 14 | 8 | Afternoon.
The second external contact, or total immersion | 3 | 32 | 10 | Afternoon.

Latitude of the Observatory 17° 29′ 15″.
Longitude 149° 32′ 30″ W. of Greenwich.

While they were viewing the Transit of Venus, some of the ship’s company broke into one of the store-rooms, and stole a quantity of spike-nails. As the circulation of these nails might have been greatly detrimental to them, strict search was made, and one of the thieves was detected. He had only a few in his custody; but was however punished with two dozen lashes.

The death of an old woman of some distinction gave them an opportunity of observing the manner of the Indians disposing of their dead, whom they never bury. The kind of bier, on which the corpse is deposited, has already 240been described, and the bread-fruit, &c. placed as before, which Tubora Tumaida informed Mr. Banks was deposited as an offering to their Gods. A sort of stile was placed in the front of the square, where the relations of the deceased stood to testify their sorrow; beneath the awning were several pieces of cloth, on which were the tears and blood of the mourners, for upon these occasions they wound themselves with a shark’s tooth. At a small distance two temporary houses were erected, in one of which some of the relations of the deceased constantly remained, and in the other the chief mourner resided, who was dressed in a peculiar manner, to perform a particular ceremony. After the corpse is rotten, the bones are buried near the spot. It was afterwards discovered, that these repositories of the dead were used also for religious worship.

There having been a scarcity of bread-fruit for some days, an enquiry was made of the cause, and the reasons the Indians gave was, that there being a great crop, the fruit had been gathered to make a sort of sour paste, which the natives call Mahie, which, after fermentation, will keep a long time, and supply them in times of dearth.

The funeral ceremony, in honour of the old woman, was performed on the 10th by the chief mourner, and Mr. Banks was so desirous to be a spectator, that he agreed to take a part 241in the performance of this ceremony, being informed, that he could not be present on any other condition. He accordingly went in the evening to the place where the body was deposited, there he was met by the relations of the deceased, and afterwards joined by several other persons. The chief mourner was Tubora Tumaida; his dress was whimsical, though not altogether ungrateful. Mr. Banks was obliged to quit his European dress, and he had no other covering than a small piece of cloth, which was tied round his middle; his body was then blacked with charcoal and water, as were the bodies of several others, particularly some females, who were as little covered as himself; the procession then began. The chief mourner uttered some words, that were judged to be a prayer, when he approached the body; and he repeated it as he came up to his own house. After this the procession went on, by permission, towards the fort. It is usual for the Indians to shun these processions as much as possible; they accordingly ran into the woods in great haste, as soon at it came in view. From the fort it proceeded along the shore. Having crossed the river, it entered the woods, passing several houses, which became immediately uninhabited; and, during the rest of the procession, which continued above half an hour, not a single Indian was visible, Mr. Banks filled an office they called Nineveh, and there 242were two others in the same character. When none of the other natives were to be seen, they approached the chief mourner, saying, imatata; then those who had assisted at the ceremony bathed in the river, and resumed their customary dress.

Such was this uncommon ceremony, in which Mr. Banks performed a capital part, and met with the applause of Tubora Tumaida, the chief mourner.

Complaint was made on Monday the 12th to the Captain, that the Indians had lost some bows and arrows, and strings of plaited hair; the affair was enquired into, and the fact being well attested, two dozen lashes were inflicted upon each of the criminals.

The bows and arrows of the Indians have not hitherto been noticed; but this day Tubora Tumaida brought his hither, occasioned by a challenge he had received from Mr. Gore. The Indian Chief imagined it was a trial of skill who could shoot the farthest; but Mr. Gore proposed shooting at a mark. The mistake being soon discovered, the champions declined the trial. The Indian, however, to display his skill, drew his bow, and sent an arrow, unfeathered, as they all were, nearly the sixth part of a mile. They shoot kneeling, and drop the bow the instant the arrow is discharged.

In this morning’s excursion, Mr. Banks met several of the natives, who were itinerant musicians, 243and the place of the evening’s rendezvous being known, all the English gentlemen went thither to partake of the diversion. Their instruments were flutes and drums, and a great number of the Indians were got together upon the occasion. The drummers sung to the music, and to the astonishment of Mr. Banks and the rest of his companions they found, that they were the chief subject of the minstrels lays. These songs must, therefore, have been extemporaneous, the rewards whereof were such necessaries as they required.

An iron coal rake for the oven being stole in the night of the 14th, and many other things having at different times been taken by the Indians, the Captain judged it of some consequence, if possible, to put an end to these practices, by making it their common interest to prevent it. He had already given strict orders, that the centinels should not fire upon them, even if they were detected in the fact. About twenty-seven of their double canoes with sails were just come in with cargoes of fish, which the Captain seized, and then gave notice, that unless the rake, and all the other things, which had at different times been stolen, were returned, the vessels should be burnt. The Captain had, indeed, no such design, as will appear by the event. The menace produced no other effect than the restitution of the rake, all the other things remaining in their possession; 244at length the Captain thought proper to give up the cargoes, as the innocent natives were in great distress for want of them; and at last, to prevent confusion, from the difficulty of ascertaining to whom the different lots belonged, he promised also to release the canoes.

About this time another event had nearly involved the English in a quarrel with the Indians. The Captain having sent a boat on shore to get ballast, the officer not meeting immediately with what he wanted, began to pull down one of their sepulchral buildings: this measure was strenuously opposed by the Indians. Mr. Banks, having received intelligence of the affair, repaired to the spot, and the matter was soon amicably terminated, there being stones sufficient found elsewhere. This was the only opposition they had, hitherto, made, and the only personal insult received (besides the affair of the musket at the tent, for which the Indian forfeited his life) was by Mr. Monkhouse, who having pulled a flower within one of their burial inclosures, was struck by an Indian; the gentleman laid hold of him, but he was rescued by two more, who pulling Mr. Monkhouse’s hair forced him to quit his hold, after which they all ran off.

On the 19th in the evening, soon after dark, while the canoes were detained by the Captain, Oberea the Queen, and several of her attendants, paid the gentlemen a visit; she came from Tootahah’s palace, in a double canoe, and 245brought with her a hog, bread-fruit, and other presents, among which was a dog; but none of the things that had been stolen; those she pleaded had been taken away by her gallant Obadee, for which she had beaten him. She did not, however, seem to think her story deserved credit, but appeared at first much terrified, though she surmounted her fears with great fortitude; and was desirous of sleeping with her attendants in Mr. Bank’s tent; but this being refused, she was obliged to pass the night in her canoe. The Captain declined accepting of her presents, at which she seemed very sorrowful. Mr. Banks and the rest of the gentlemen retired to bed, and a whole tribe of the Indians would have slept in the bell-tent, but were not permitted.

The next morning the Queen returned to the fort, and Captain Cook having altered his mind accepted of her presents. Two of her attendants were very earnest in getting themselves husbands, in which they succeeded, by means of the Surgeon and one of the Lieutenants: they seemed very agreeable till bed-time, and determined to lie in Mr. Banks’s tent, which they accordingly did, till the Surgeon having some words with one of them Mr. Banks thrust her out, and she was followed by the rest, except Otea Tea, who cried for some time, till he turned her out also. This had like to have become a serious affair, a duel being talked of between Mr. Banks and Mr. Monkhouse, but it was happily 246avoided. Dogs are esteemed here more delicate eating than pork; as those bred to be eaten taste no animal food, but live entirely upon vegetables; and the experiment was tried. Tupia undertook to kill and dress him, which he did, by making a hole in the ground and baking him. It was agreed by every one to be a very good dish.

They were visited on the 21st at the fort by many of the natives, who brought various kinds of presents, and among the rest Oamo, a Chief of several districts on the island, whom they had never before seen, who brought with him a hog. This Chief was treated with great respect by the natives, and was accompanied by a boy, and a young woman. The boy was carried upon a man’s back, though he was very able to walk. Oberea and some other of the Indians went out of the fort to meet them, their heads and bodies being first uncovered as low as the waist. This was considered as a mark of respect, they had not noticed it before, but judged it was usually shewn to persons of distinguished rank among them. Oamo entered the tent, but the young woman, who was about sixteen, could not be prevailed upon to accompany him, tho’ she seemed to combat with her curiosity and inclination. Dr. Solander took the youth by the hand, and conducted him in; but the natives without, who had prevented the girl’s entrance, soon found means to get him out again.

247The curiosity of Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen being excited from these circumstances, they made enquiry, who these strangers were, and were informed, that Oamo was Oberea’s husband, but that by mutual consent they had been for a considerable time separated; and that the youth and girl were their offspring. The boy was named Terridiri, and was heir apparent to the sovereignty of the island; and he was to espouse his sister as soon as he had attained the proper age. The present sovereign being a minor, called Outou, and son of Whappai; Whappai, Oamo, and Tootahah, were all brothers; Whappai was the senior, and Oamo the next; wherefore, Whappai having no child but Outou, Terridiri, son of Oamo, was heir to the sovereignty. To us it will appear singular, that a boy should reign during the life of his father; but in the island of Otaheite, a boy succeeds to his father’s authority and title as soon as he is born; when a regent is elected, which office usually falls upon the father, till the boy becomes of age: at this time, however, the election had fallen upon his uncle Tootahah, on account of his warlike exploits. Oamo was very inquisitive with respect to the English, and by his questions he appeared a man of understanding and penetration.

A woman called Teetee, who came from the west of the island, presented to the Captain an elegant garment, of a bright yellow ground, 248bordered with red, and in the middle of it were several crosses, which they had probably learned from the French.

On the 23d in the morning, one of their hands being missing, they enquired for him among the natives, and were told that he was at Eparre, Tootahah’s residence in the wood; and one of the Indians offered to fetch him back, which he did that evening. On his return he informed them, that he had been taken from the fort, and carried to the top of the bay, by three men, who having stripped him, forced him into a canoe, and conducted him to Eparre, where he received some cloaths from Tootahah, who endeavoured to prevail on him to continue there. They had great reason to suppose this account true, for the natives were no sooner acquainted with his return, than they left the fort with much precipitation.

Monday June 26, early in the morning, the Captain set out in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks, to circumnavigate the island. They sailed to the eastward, and in the forenoon they went on shore, in a part of the island under the government of Ahio, a young Chief, who had often visited them at the tents. They also found here some other natives of their acquaintance. They then proceeded together to the harbour, wherein M. Bougainville lay when he visited this island, and were shewn the ground on which he fixed his tent, and the watering-place. 249They also met with Orette, a Chief, who was their particular friend, whose brother went away with M. Bougainville.

Having taken a survey of this harbour, and a large bay near which it is situated, they proposed going to the opposite side of the bay, but Titubaola, who was their conductor, not only refused to accompany them, but endeavoured to dissuade the Captain and Mr. Banks from going, saying, “That country was inhabited by people who were not subjects to Tootahah, and who would destroy them all.” This information did not, however, prevent the execution of their design; and upon loading their pieces with ball, Titubaola took courage to go with them; they rowed till it was dark, when they reached a narrow neck of land, that divided the island into two peninsulas, which are distinct governments. As they were not yet got into the hostile part of the country, they agreed to spend the night on shore, where they were provided with supper and lodging by Ooratooa, the lady who paid her compliments to Mr. Banks in so remarkable a manner at the fort.

In the morning they pursued their passage for the other government.

They landed in a district, which was governed by a Chief, named Maraitata, the burying place of men, and his father was called Pahairede, the stealer of boats. Notwithstanding 250their names were so ominous, they gave the Captain and Mr. Banks a very civil reception; furnished them with provisions, and sold them a large hog for a hatchet. The curiosity of the natives was soon excited, and a crowd gathered round the English gentlemen, but they saw only two people whom they knew, neither did they observe any trinkets that had come out of the Endeavour, though they met with several European commodities, particularly two twelve pound shot, one of which had the English broad arrow upon it, though the Indians said they had them from M. Bougainville’s people. They then advanced till they reached the district, which was under the dominion of the principal Chief, or King, named Waheatua, who had a son, but it was not known in whose hands the sovereign power was lodged. Here they found a spacious verdant plain, watered by a river of so great a width, that they were obliged to pass it in a canoe, but their Indian followers swam over it with the greatest facility. There was no house that appeared inhabited; but the ruins of several large ones. Having continued their journey along the shore for a considerable way, they at last saw the Chief, and with him an agreeable young woman about two and twenty, named Toudidde. They were not unacquainted with her name, as they had often heard it mentioned by the natives; and they had great reason to suppose she was the Queen of this peninsula.

251In passing through this part of the island, they found it better cultivated, and more improved than any they had hitherto met with; though the houses were but few, and those very small, but there were a great number of canoes which excelled any they had seen, both in size and workmanship. The burial places were likewise numerous, being found not only at every point, but at different places in the interior parts of the island. These buildings nearly resembled, in form, those which they had seen at Opouroenu, but they were neater, and adorned with carvings of various figures; in one there was a cock, which was painted in imitation of the natural colour of the feathers of that bird. Notwithstanding the fertility of the country, and its being well cultivated, scarce any bread-fruit was to be met with, and the inhabitants subsisted chiefly upon a nut, called abee.

Finding themselves fatigued, they now took to their boat, and in the evening landed on an island named Otooareite; being in want of some refreshment, Mr. Banks went into the woods to try what he could obtain, but it being dark, he met with no inhabitants and but one house, in which he found only a bread-fruit, and a few of the nuts before-mentioned; nor were they more successful in procuring provisions the next morning.

Towards the southermost part of the island they found a good harbour, formed by a reef, 252and the circumjacent country is remarkably fruitful. At about three miles distant they landed, at a place where they found several of the natives, with whom they were intimately acquainted. After having, with a good deal of difficulty, obtained some cocoa-nuts, they again embarked.

They landed again a little further to the east. Mathiabo, the Chief, with whom they had no acquaintance, nor had ever seen before, soon came to them, and supplied them with cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. They also purchased a hog of him for a glass bottle, which he took in preference to every other thing that was offered him. They saw here a turkey cock and a goose which the Dolphin left on the island, they were remarkably fat, and seemed to be greatly admired by the Indians.

A very uncommon sight presented itself in a house near this place, several human jaw-bones were fastened to a board of a semicircular form; they seemed fresh, and had not lost any of their teeth; but Mr. Banks could obtain no explanation of this mystery. Upon their quitting the place, the Chief accompanied them, and piloted them over the shoals. They opened the bay in the evening, on the north-west side of the island, which corresponded with that on the south-east, in such a manner, as to intersect the island at the isthmus.

253Several canoes came off here with some very beautiful women, who appeared to be desirous of their going on shore, to which they readily assented. They met with a very friendly reception from the Chief, whose name was Wiverou, who gave directions to some of his people to assist them in dressing their provisions, which were now very plentiful, and they supped at Wiverou’s house, in company with Mathiabo. Part of the house was allotted for them to sleep in, and soon after supper they retired to rest. Mathiabo having obtained a cloak from Mr. Banks, under pretence of using it as a cover-let when he lay down, immediately made off with it, unperceived by that gentleman or his companions. News however of the robbery was soon brought them by one of the natives; in consequence of which intelligence they sat out in pursuit of the thief, but had proceeded a very little way before they were met by a person bringing back the cloak, which Mathiabo had given up through fear.

The house, upon their return, was entirely deserted, and about four in the morning the centinel gave the alarm, that the boat was missing. Mr. Banks and the Captain were greatly astonished at this account, and ran to the water-side, but though the morning was clear and star-light, no boat was visible. Their situation was now extremely terrifying: the party consisting of but four, with a single musket and two 254pocket pistols, without a spare ball or a charge of powder. After remaining in this distressful state of anxiety for a considerable time, dreading the advantage the Indians would take of it, to their great joy, the boat, which had been driven away by the tide, returned; Mr. Banks and his companions no sooner breakfasted than they departed. This place is situated on the north side of Tiarrabou, the south-east peninsula of the island, about five miles east from the isthmus, with a harbour equal to any in the island. It was fertile and populous, and the inhabitants every where behaved with civility. The last district in Tiarrabou, in which they landed, was governed by a Chief, named Omoe. He was building a house, and was very desirous of purchasing a hatchet, but Mr. Banks and the Captain had not one left. He would not trade for nails, and they embarked; the Chief following them in a canoe with his wife, in hopes of obtaining something useful to him. The Chief and his wife were afterwards taken on board, and after having gone about three miles, they desired to be put on shore, and their request was complied with, when the Captain met with some of Omoe’s people, who had brought with them a very large hog. The Chief agreed to exchange the hog for a large axe and a nail, and to bring the beast to the fort in Port Royal Bay. This resolution he came to after consulting with his wife; 255and Mr. Banks judged the exchange to be very advantageous to the English, as the hog was a remarkable fine one.

At this place they saw one of their Eatuas, or Gods, it was made of wicker-work, and resembled the figure of a man; it was near seven feet in height, and was covered with black and white feathers; on the head were four protuberances, which the natives called Tate ete, or little men.

Having taken their leave of Omoe, they set out on their return; after rowing a few miles, they went on shore again, but saw nothing remarkable except a sepulchral building, which was ornamented in an extraordinary manner. The pavement, on which was built a pyramid, was very neat; at a little distance there was an image of stone, very uncouthly carved, which the natives seemed to hold in a great estimation.

They passed through the harbour, which was the only one fit for shipping, on the south of Opoureonu, situated about five miles to the westward of the isthmus, between two small islands not far from shore, and within a mile of each other. They were now near the district, named Paparra, which was governed by Oamo and Oberea, where they intended to spend the night. Mr. Banks and his company landed about an hour before it was dark, and found that they were both set out to pay them a visit at the fort. They nevertheless slept at the house 256of Oberea, which, though not large, was very neat; no inhabitant but her father was now in possession of it, who shewed them much civility. They took this opportunity of walking out to a point, upon which they had observed, at a distance, some trees, called Etoa, which usually grow on the burial-places of these people. They call these burying-grounds Morai, which are also places of worship. They here saw an immense edifice, which they found to be the Morai of Oamo and Oberea, which was by far the most considerable piece of architecture to be found in the island.

It consisted of an enormous pile of stone work, raised in the form of a pyramid, with a flight of steps on each side, something after the manner of those little buildings, which are commonly erected in England to place the pillars of sun dials upon; it was near two hundred and seventy feet long, and about one-third as wide, and between forty and fifty feet high.

A Morai, or Burial Place.

The foundation consisted of rock-stones, the steps of coral, and the upper part of round pebbles, all of the same shape and size; the rock and coral-stones were squared with the utmost neatness and regularity, and the whole building appeared as compact and firm, as if it had been erected by the best workmen in Europe. As the Indians were totally destitute of iron utensils to shape their stones, as well as mortar to cement them, when they had made 257them fit for use, a structure of such heighth and magnitude, must have been a work of infinite labour and fatigue.

In the center of the summit was the representation of a bird, carved in wood; close to this was the figure of a fish; which was in stone. This pyramid made part of one side of a wide court or square, the sides of which were nearly equal; the whole was walled in, and paved with flat stones. Within this place grew (notwithstanding it was in this manner paved) several plantains, and trees which the natives call Etoa. At a little distance to the west of this edifice was another paved square, which contained several small stages, called by the natives Ewattas, which appeared to be altars; upon them they place provisions, as sacrifices to their gods: Mr. Banks afterwards observed whole hogs placed upon these ewattas, or altars.

The inhabitants of the island of Otaheite seem in nothing so desirous of excelling each other as in the grandeur and magnificence of their sepulchres; and the rank and authority of Oberea was forcibly evinced upon this occasion. The gentlemen of the Endeavour, it has been observed, did not find Oberea possessed of the same power, as when the Dolphin was at this place, and they were now informed of the cause. The way from her house to the Morai, was by the sea-side, and they observed, in all places as they passed along, a great number of 258human bones. Inquiry being made into the cause of this extraordinary sight, they were informed, that about four or five months before Captain Cook’s arrival, the inhabitants of Tiarrabou, the peninsula to the south-east, made a descent here, and slew many of the people, whose bones were those that were seen upon the coast: that hereupon Oberea and Oamo, who then held the government for his son, had fled and taken refuge in the mountains; and that the victors destroyed all the houses, and pillaged the country. Mr. Banks was also informed, that the turkey and goose which he had seen in the district of Mathiabo, were among the booty; this afforded a reason for their being found where the Dolphin had little or no correspondence; and the jaw-bones, being mentioned, which had been seen hanging in a house, he was informed, that they had likewise been carried off as trophies. The jaw-bones of their enemies being considered by the natives of this island, as great a mark of triumph, as scalps are by the Indians of North America.

On Friday the 30th they arrived at Otahourou, where their old acquaintance Tootahah resided; he received them with great civility, and provided for them a good supper, and a convenient lodging; and notwithstanding they were so shamefully plundered the last time, they slept with this chief. They spent the night in 259the utmost security, none of their cloaths, or any other article, being missing in the morning.

On Saturday, July 1, they returned to the fort at Port Royal Harbour; having discovered the island, both peninsulas included, to be about one hundred miles in circumference. They were now very much in want of bread-fruit, owing to the scarcity of the season, and could obtain but a very small quantity upon their whole tour.

Their Indian friends crouded about them upon their return, and none of them came without provisions.

Monday the 3d, Mr. Banks made an excursion, with some Indian guides, to trace the river up the valley to its source, and observe to what extent its banks were inhabited. After meeting with houses for the space of six miles, they came up to one which was said to be the last that could be seen. The master of it presented them with cocoa-nuts and other fruits; and after a short visit, they continued their walk. In this tour they often passed under vaults, formed by rocky fragments, in which, they were informed, that those who were benighted often took refuge. They pursued the course of the river for about five or six miles further, and found it banked on both sides by rocks which were almost perpendicular, and near one hundred feet high, notwithstanding which, a way was to be traced up these dreadful precipices, 260and their Indian guides offered to conduct them by this path to the summit; but as it could not be effected without the utmost difficulty and danger, and there appeared nothing at the top to recompence them for the fatigue and hazard of the undertaking, they declined attempting it.

Mr. Banks during this tour had a fine opportunity of searching for minerals among the rocks, which were almost, on all sides, naked; he found, however, not the smallest appearance of any kind of mineral. The stones every where resembling those of Madeira, gave manifest signs of having been burnt. Scarce a single stone was found during their whole stay upon the island, which had not unquestionable marks of fire on it, except the hatchet stone, and some of these were not entirely free from it. There are also evident traces of fire in the clay upon the hills, both of this and the neighbouring islands.

Mr. Banks was engaged the 4th in planting on each side of the fort a great quantity of the seeds of water-melons, oranges, lemons, limes, and other plants and trees which he had brought from Rio de Janeiro. He gave of these seeds to the Indians in great plenty, and planted many of them in the woods: some of the melon-seeds, which had been planted soon after his arrival, had already produced plants which appeared to be in a very flourishing state.

261They now began to make preparations for their departure; but before they set sail they had another visit from Oamo, Oberea, and their son and daughter. The young woman, whose name they understood to be Toimata, was very curious to see the fort, but Oamo would by no means permit her to come in. The son of Waheatua, sovereign of Tiarrabou, or the south-east peninsula, was also here at this time; and they received intelligence of the arrival of another guest, whose company they neither wished for nor expected; this was the Indian who had stolen the quadrant.

On Friday the 7th, the carpenters were ordered to take down the gates and pallisadoes of the fort, to be converted into firewood on board the Endeavour; and one of the Indians stole the staple and hook belonging to the gate: he was instantly pursued; but could not be found; and soon after this, their old friend Tubora Tumaida brought back the staple.

They continued on the 8th and 9th to pull down the fort, and their friends still visited them.

Captain Cook hoped now to quit the island, without any farther misunderstanding with the natives; but in this he was mistaken. Two foreign sailors having been out, one of them was robbed of his knife, and striving to recover it, the Indians attacked and wounded him in a dangerous manner with a stone; his companion also received a slight wound in the head. 262As Captain Cook would have been unwilling to have taken farther notice of the transaction, he was not sorry that the offenders had made their escape. Another affair equally disagreeable soon after happened. Between the 8th and 9th in the evening; two young marines retired secretly from the fort, and in the morning were not to be met with. Notice having been given for all the company to go on board the next day, and that the ship would sail that day or the day ensuing, Captain Cook began to fear that the marines intended to remain on shore. He was apprised, that no effectual steps could be taken to recover them, without risking the harmony and good fellowship which at present subsisted between the English and the natives; and therefore resolved to wait a day in hopes of their returning.

The 10th in the morning the marines not being returned, an enquiry was made after them, when the Indians declared they did not propose returning, having taken refuge in the mountains, where it was impossible to discover them, and that each had taken a wife. In consequence of which it was intimated to several of the Chiefs who were in the fort with their women, among whom were Tubora Tumaida, Tomio and Oberea, that they would not be suffered to quit it till the deserters were produced. Captain Cook thought this precaution necessary, as, by concealing them a short time, he might be compelled 263to go without them; they received the intimation with very little signs either of fear or discontent, assuring the Captain that the marines should be sent back. In the interim he sent Mr. Hicks in the pinnace to bring Tootahah on board the ship, which he executed without giving any alarm. Night coming on, Captain Cook judged it was not prudent to let the people, whom he had detained as hostages, remain at the fort, and he therefore ordered Tubora Tumaida, Oberea, and some others, to be brought on board. This gave an unusual alarm, and several of them, especially the females, testified their apprehensions with great agitation of mind, and floods of tears, when they were coming on board. Captain Cook went on board with them, Mr. Banks remaining on shore with some others, whom he thought it of less importance to detain.

One of the marines was brought back in the evening by some of the Indians, who reported, that the other, and the two people who were sent to fetch them back, would be detained whilst Tootahah was confined. Mr. Hicks was immediately dispatched in the long-boat, with several men, to rescue the English prisoners; at the same time Captain Cook told Tootahah, that it was incumbent on him to assist them with some of his people, and to give orders, in his name, that the men should be set at liberty, for that he should expect him to answer for the 264event. Tootahah immediately complied, and this party recovered the men without any opposition. About seven in the morning on the 11th they returned, but without the arms which had been taken from them when they were made prisoners: the arms were however brought on board soon after, and the Chiefs were allowed to return on shore.

At the time the Chiefs were set on shore from the ship, those at the fort were also released, and after remaining with Mr. Banks about an hour and a half, they all returned to their respective places of residence. When the deserters were examined, it was discovered, that the account which the Indians had given was no way false: they had become fond of two girls, and it was their design to keep themselves concealed till the ship had let sail, and continue upon the island.

Tupia, whose name has been often mentioned in this voyage, had been prime minister of Oberea, when she was at the pinnacle of her authority: he was also the principal priest of the island, and therefore intimately acquainted with the religion of the country. He was likewise deeply versed in navigation, and was thoroughly acquainted with the number, situation, inhabitants and produce of the adjacent islands. He had often testified a desire to go with them; and on Wednesday the 12th, in the morning, he came on board, with a boy about twelve 265years of age, his servant, named Taiyota, and requested the gentlemen on board, to let him go with them. As it was thought he would be useful to them in many particulars, they unanimously agreed to comply with his request. Tupia then went ashore for the last time to see his friends, and took with him several baubles to give them as parting tokens of remembrance.

Mr. Banks being willing to obtain a drawing of the Morai, in possession of Tootahah, at Eparre, Captain Cook accompanied him thither in the pinnace, together with Dr. Solander. They immediately, upon landing, repaired to Tootahah’s house, where they were met by Oberea, and several others. A general good understanding prevailed, and they promised to visit the gentlemen early the next day, to take leave of them, as they were told that the ship would then set sail. There also they met Tupia, who came back with them, and slept for the first time on board the ship.

Thursday the 13th of July, the ship was visited by a multitude of the gentlemen’s friends, and surrounded by numberless canoes, which contained the inferior natives. They weighed anchor about twelve, and the Indians took their leaves of the gentlemen on board, weeping in a friendly and affecting manner. Tupia supported himself in this scene with a becoming fortitude, tears flowed from his eyes, its true, 266but the effort that he made to conceal them did him additional honour. He went with Mr. Banks to the mast-head, where he continued waving his hand to the canoes as long as they remained visible.

The longitude of Port Royal Bay, as settled by Captain Wallis, was found to be within half a degree of its real situation. Point Venus, the northern extremity of the island, and the eastern point of the bay, lies in the longitude 149 degrees 30 minutes. Port Royal Bay, which is equal to any in Otaheite, may easily be discovered by a remarkable high mountain in the center of the island, bearing due south from Point Venus. The shore of the bay is a fine sandy beach, behind which runs a river of fresh water; any number of ships may water here without any inconvenience to each other. The only wood for firing, upon the whole island, is that of fruit-trees, which must be purchased of the natives, or it is impossible to live upon good terms with them.

According to Tupia’s account, the island could furnish above six thousand fighting men, whereby a computation of the number of inhabitants may easily be made.

The produce of Otaheite is bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains; a fruit not unlike an apple, potatoes, yams, cocoas, sugar-cane, and a variety of other fruits and vegetables.

267They have no European fruits, garden stuff, or pulse, nor grain of any species. Their tame animals are hogs, dogs, and poultry; there is not a wild animal in the island, except ducks, pigeons, parroquets, and a few other birds; rats being the only quadruped, and there are no serpents. The sea however supplies them with great variety of excellent fish.

With regard to the people, they are in general rather of a larger make than Europeans. The males are tall, robust, and finely shaped. The females of the superior class are likewise generally above our common size; but those of the lower rank are rather below it, and some of them are remarkably little.

Their natural complexion is a fine clear olive, or what we call brunette, their skin is delicately smooth and agreeably soft. The shape of their faces is in general handsome, and their eyes are full of sensibility and expression, their teeth are likewise remarkably white and regular, and their breath intirely free from any disagreeable smell; their hair is for the most part black. The men, unlike the original inhabitants of America, have long beards, which they wear in various forms; and what is very remarkable, circumcision is almost universally practised among them, from a motive of cleanliness; having a peculiar term of reproach, with which they upbraid those who do not adopt this custom. Both sexes always eradicate the 268hair from their arm-pits, and they often reproached the English gentlemen with a want of cleanliness, for not making use of the same method. Their motions are easy and graceful, but not vigorous; their deportment is generous and open, and their behaviour affable and courteous. They appeared of a brave, noble, and candid disposition; equally strangers to the base and unworthy passions of cruelty, treachery, or revenge, and setting aside their violent prepensity to thieving, it may fairly be said, that their general characters would lose nothing in the comparison with those of the most civilized nation under the globe.

Contrary to the custom of almost all other countries, the women of this island cut their hair quite short, whereas the men wear it long, sometimes hanging loose on their shoulders, and at others tied in a knot on the crown of their heads, in which they stick the feathers of birds of various colours.

Both sexes frequently wear a piece of cloth of the manufacture of the island tied round their heads in the form of a turban; and the women take no little pains in plaiting human hair into long strings, which being folded into branches, are tied on their foreheads by way of ornament.

There is a custom likewise prevalent among them of anointing their heads with an oil extracted from the cocoa-nut. The smell of 269which is not altogether agreeable, as the climate is hot, and they are not provided with any thing similar to a comb, their heads are not clear from vermin: it evidently appeared, however, to be more the effect of necessity than inclination, as those to whom they gave combs immediately got rid of these disagreeable companions.

They stain their bodies, by indenting or pricking the flesh with a small instrument made of bone, cut into short teeth; which indentures they fill with a dark blue or blackish mixture, prepared from the smoke of an oily nut, burnt by them instead of candles and water; this operation, which is called by the natives Tattaowing, is exceedingly painful, and leaves an indelible mark on the skin. It is usually performed when they are about ten or twelve years of age, and on different parts of the body; but those which suffer most severely are the breech and the loins, which are marked with arches, carried one above another a considerable way up their backs.

At the operation of Tattaowing, performed upon the posteriors of a girl about twelve years of age, Mr. Banks was present, it was executed with an instrument that had twenty teeth, and at each stroke, which was repeated every moment, serum mixed with blood issued. She bore it with great resolution for several minutes; but at length the pain became so violent, 270that she murmured and complained, and then burst into the most violent lamentations; but her operator was inexorable, whilst some females present chid, and even beat her. Mr. Banks was a spectator for near an hour, during which time it was performed only on one side, the other having undergone the ceremony sometime before; and the arches upon the loins, which are the most painful, but upon which they the most pique themselves, were yet to be made.

They cloath themselves in cloth and matting of various kinds; the first they wear in fair, the latter in wet weather. They are in different forms, no shape being preserved in them, nor are the pieces sewed together. The women of a superior class wear three or four pieces; one, which is of considerable length, they wrap several times round their waists, and it falls down to the middle of the leg. Two or three other short pieces, with a hole cut in the middle of each, are placed on one another, and their heads coming through the holes, the long ends hang before and behind, both sides being open, by which means they have the free use of their arms.

A Woman & Boy, of the new discovered Islands, in the Dress of the Country.

The mens dress is very similar, differing only in one instance, which is that part of the garment instead of falling below the knees, is brought between the legs. This dress is worn by all ranks of people, the only distinction being quantity in 271the superior class. At noon both sexes appear almost naked, wearing only the piece of cloth that is tied round the waist. Their faces are shaded from the sun with small bonnets, made of cocoa-nut leaves or matting which are constructed in a few minutes. The men sometimes wear a sort of wig, made of human or dogs hair, or of cocoa-nut strings, woven on a single thread, which is fastened under their hair, and hangs down behind. Both men and women wear ear-rings on one side, consisting of shells, stones, berries, or small pearls; but they soon gave the preference to the beads, brought by the Endeavour’s company.

The boys and girls go quite naked; the first till they are seven or eight years old; the latter till they are about five. Their houses, which have been described already, they seldom use but to sleep in, or to avoid the rain, as they eat in the open air, under the shade of a tree. Their clothes serve them at night for covering, and there are no divisions or apartments. The master and his wife repose in the middle, then the married people; next to these the unmarried females, and at a small distance the men who are unmarried; and the servants sleep in the open air in fair weather. The houses of the Chiefs, however, differ in some degree; there are some very small, and so built as to be carried in canoes: all sides of them are inclosed with the leaves of the cocoa-nut; the air, nevertheless, 272penetrates, in these the Chief and his wife alone sleep. There are also houses which are general receptacles for the inhabitants of a district. These are much larger, many being more than two hundred feet in length, forty in breadth, and seventy or eighty feet high. They are constructed at the common expence, and have an area on one side surrounded with low pallisades; but like the others have no walls.

When a Chief kills a hog, which is but seldom, he divides it equally among his vassals; dogs and fowls are more common.

When the bread-fruit in not in season, they are supplied by cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains, &c.

Their cookery consists chiefly of baking, the manner of doing which has been already described. They bake their bread-fruit in the same way, which renders it something like a mealy potatoe; of this fruit three dishes are made, by beating it to a paste, and mixing it with bananas, plantains, or the sour paste, which the natives nominate Mahie.

This paste is made by taking bread-fruit, which is not thoroughly ripe, and laying it in heaps, covered with leaves, by which means it ferments, the core is then taken out, and the fruit put into a hole lined with grass; it is then again covered with leaves, upon which large stones are placed; this produces a second fermentation, after which it grows sour, and undergoes 273no change for a long time; they take it from this hole as they have occasion for it, and making it into balls, it is rolled up in plantain-leaves and baked; as it will keep for some weeks after it is dressed, they eat it both hot and cold.

Such is the food of these people, their sauce to which never consists of any thing but salt water. As to their drink, it is generally confined to water, or the milk of the cocoa nuts, though there were instances in which some of them drank so freely of the English liquors, as to become quite intoxicated; this, however, seemed to proceed more from ignorance than design, as they were never known to repeat a debauch of this kind a second time. They were told indeed that the Chiefs sometimes became inebriated by drinking the juice of a plant called Ava, but of this they saw no instance during the time they remained on the island.

The Chiefs generally eat alone, unless when visited by a stranger, who is sometimes permitted to become a second in their mess; having nothing to supply the want of a table; they sit on the ground in the shade; leaves of trees being spread before them serve as a table-cloth; their attendants, who are numerous, having placed a basket by the Chiefs, containing their provisions, and a cocoa-nut shell of fresh and salt water, seat themselves round them; they then begin by washing their mouth and hands, after 274which they eat a mouthful of bread-fruit and fish, dipt in salt water alternately, till the whole is consumed, taking a sup of salt water likewise between almost every morsel. The bread-fruit and fish being all eaten, they next have either plantains or apples, which they never eat without being pared. During this time a soft paste is prepared from the bread-fruit, which they sup out of a cocoa-nut shell; this finishes the meal, and the hands and mouth are again washed as at the beginning.

It is astonishing how much food they eat at a meal; Mr. Banks and some other gentlemen were present when one man devoured three fish the size of a middling carp, four bread fruits as large as a common melon, thirteen or fourteen plantains seven or eight inches long, and above half as big round, and about a quart of the paste made of bread-fruit.

It is not a little surprizing, that the inhabitants of this island, who seemed exceedingly sensible of the pleasures of society, should have an universal aversion to the least intercourse with each other at their meals, and so rigid are they in the observance of this unusual custom, that even brothers and sisters have their separate baskets to contain their provisions, and generally sit some yards distance when they eat, with their backs turned towards each other, not exchanging a single word during the whole time of their repast; the middle aged of superior 275rank usually betake themselves to sleep after dinner, but what is remarkable, the older people are not so lazy; music, dancing, wrestling, and shooting with the bow, or throwing a lance, constitute a chief part of their diversions.

Flutes which have been mentioned before, and drums, are the only musical instruments among them; their drums are formed of a circular piece of wood, hollow at one end only, which is covered with the skin of a shark, and they are beaten with the hand instead of a stick. Their songs are extempore, and frequently in rhime, but consist of only two lines; these couplets are often sung by way of evening amusements, between sun-set and bed-time, during which time they are not destitute of lights, having candles which they make of an oily nut, fixing them one above another, upon a small stick run through the middle; some of these candles burn a long time, and afford a pretty good light.

Among their other amusements, they have a dance named Timorodee, which is performed by ten or a dozen young females, who put themselves into the most wanton attitudes that can possibly be imagined, keeping time during the performance with the greatest nicety and exactness, from these dances the women are immediately excluded on their becoming pregnant.

Many of the principal people of this island, of each sex, have united into an association, in which no woman confines her favours to any 276particular man; in this manner they obtain a perpetual variety, no one object ever gratifying them but a few days.

These societies are named Arreoy, the members of which have meetings where the men amuse themselves by wrestling; and notwithstanding the frequent intercourse which the women have with a variety of men, they dance the Timorodee in such a manner, as they imagine will most excite the desires of the male sex, and which are often gratified upon the spot. There are yet much worse practices. In case any of the women prove with child, which in this manner of life seldom happens, they destroy the helpless infant as soon as it is brought into the world, that it may not be a burden to the father, nor interrupt the mother in the pursuit of her lascivious amusements. Natural affection, however, for the child sometimes happily produces a reformation in the mother, but when this happens, the child’s life is always forfeited, unless the mother can procure a man to adopt it as his child, in which case this inhuman murder is prevented, but both the man and woman are for ever expelled this society. The woman being particularized by the appellation of Whannownow, “bearer of children”, which among these people, is considered as a term of the greatest reproach.

Their personal cleanliness is an object that merits peculiar attention. Both sexes never 277omit to wash with water three times a day; when they rise, at noon, and before they go to rest. They also keep their cloaths extremely clean; so that in the largest communities no disagreeable effluvia ever arises, nor is there any other inconvenience than heat.

The chief manufacture of Otaheite is cloth; of this cloth there are three different sorts, which are made of the bark of as many different trees, viz. the mulberry, the bread-fruit, and a tree not very unlike the wild fig-tree, which is found in some parts of the West Indies. The mulberry-tree, which the Indians call Aouta, produces the finest cloth, which is seldom worn but by those of the first rank. The next sort, which is worn by the lower class of people, is made of the bread-fruit tree, and the coarsest of the tree resembling the fig-tree. This last sort, though more useful than the two former on account of its keeping out water, which neither of the others will, is exceedingly scarce, being manufactured but in small quantities.

The same method is used in manufacturing these three cloths, notwithstanding they are all different; a description therefore of their manner of making one, will suffice for the whole.

Having stript off the bark of the trees, it is soaked in water for two or three days, they then take it out and separate the inner bark from the external coat, by scraping it with a shell, after which it is spread out on plantain-leaves, placing 278two or three layers one over another, and taking care to make it of an equal thickness in every part; it continues in this state till it is nearly dry, when it adheres together so firmly, that it may be taken from the ground without breaking. After this process it is laid on a smooth board, and beaten with an instrument made for that purpose, of a compact heavy wood, called by the natives Etoa. This instrument is about fourteen inches long, and seven in circumference; it is of a quadrangular shape, and each of the four sides is marked with longitudinal grooves or furrows, differing in this instance, that there is a regular gradation in the width and depth of the grooves on each of the sides, the coarser side containing not more than ten of these furrows, and the finest above sixty.

They begin to beat their cloth with that side of the mallet where the grooves are deepest and widest, and proceeding regularly with the others, finish with that which has the greatest number; by this beating it is extended in a manner similar to the gold which is formed into leaves by the hammer, and is marked with an appearance of little channels, not unlike those which are visible on paper, but rather deeper; it is in general beat very thin, and when they want it thicker than common, they take two or three pieces and paste them together with a kind of glue, prepared from a root called Pea.

279This cloth becomes exceedingly white by bleaching, and is died of a red, yellow, brown, or black colour: the first of which is exceedingly beautiful, and equal, if not superior, to any in Europe. They make this red colour from a mixture of the juices of two vegetables, neither of which used separately has this effect.

Matting of various kinds is another considerable manufacture, in which they excel, in many respects, the Europeans. They make use of the coarser sort to sleep on, and in wet weather they wear the finer.

They greatly excel in the basket and wicker-work; both men and women employ themselves at it, and can make it of a great number of different patterns.

They make ropes and lines of all sizes of the bark of the poerou, and their nets for fishing are made of these lines: the fibres of the cocoa-nut they make thread of, such as they use to fasten together the several parts of their canoes; the forms of which are various, according to the use to which they are applied.

Their fishing-lines are esteemed the best in the world, made of the bark of the Erowa, a kind of nettle which grows on the mountains; they are strong enough to hold the heaviest and most vigorous fish, such as bonetas and albicores; in short, they are extremely ingenious in every expedient for taking all kinds of fish.

280The tools which these people make use of for building houses, constructing canoes, hewing stone, and for felling, cleaving, carving and polishing timber, consist of nothing more than an adze of stone, and a chissel of bone, most commonly that of a man’s arm; and for a file or polisher, they make use of a rasp of coral, and coral sand.

The blades of their adzes are extremely tough, but not very hard; they make them of various sizes, those for felling weigh six or seven pounds; and others which are used for carving, only a few ounces; they are obliged, every minute, to sharpen them on a stone, which is always kept near them for that purpose.

The most difficult task they meet with in the use of these tools, is the felling of a tree, which employs a great number of hands for several days together.

The tree which is in general use is called Avie, the stem of which is strait and tall. Some of their smaller boats are made of the bread-fruit tree, which is wrought without much difficulty, being of a light spongy nature. Instead of planes, they use their adzes with great dexterity. Their canoes are all shaped with the hand, the Indians not being acquainted with the method of warping a plank.

They have two kinds of canoes, one they call Ivahahs, the other Pahies; the former is used for short voyages at sea, and the latter for 281longer ones. These boats do not differ either in shape or size; but they are in no degree proportionate, being from sixty or seventy feet to ten in length, and not more than the thirtieth part in breadth. Some are employed in going from one island to another, and others used for fishing. There is also the Ivahah, which serves for fighting; these are by far the longest, and the head and stern are considerably raised above the body. These Ivahahs are fastened together, side by side when they go to sea, at the distance of a few feet, by strong wooden poles, which are laid across them and joined to each side. A stage or platform is raised on the fore-part about ten or twelve feet long; upon which stand the fighting men, whose missile weapons are slings and spears. Beneath these stages the rowers sit, who supply the place of those who are wounded.

The fishing Ivahahs are from thirty or forty to ten feet in length; and those for travelling have a small house fixed on board, which is fastened upon the fore-part, for the better accommodation of persons of rank, who occupy them both day and night.

The Pahies differ also in size, being from sixty to seventy feet long, they are likewise very narrow, and are sometimes used for fighting, but chiefly for long voyages. In going from one island to another, they sometimes are out a month, and often at sea a fortnight or twenty 282days, and if they had convenience to stow more provisions, they could stay out much longer.

These vessels are very useful in landing, and putting off from the shore in a surf; for by their great length and high sterns they landed dry, when the Endeavour’s boats could scarcely land at all.

They are very curious in the construction of these boats, the chief parts or pieces whereof are formed separately without either saw, plane, chissel, or any other iron tool, which renders their fabrication more surprizing and worthy observation.

These parts being prepared, the keel is fixed upon blocks, and the planks are supported with props, till they are sewed or joined together with strong plaited thongs, which are passed several times through holes bored with a chissel of bone, such as they usually make use of; and when finished, they are sufficiently tight without caulking.

They keep these boats with great care in a kind of shed, built on purpose to contain them.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were at a loss to find out their method of dividing time; they always made use of the term Malama, which signifies moon, whenever they spoke of time, either past or to come; they reckon thirteen of these moons, beginning again when they are expired. This proves that they have some idea of the solar year; but these gentlemen could 283not discover how they computed their months, so as to make thirteen of them equal to the year; for the natives say, that their month consists of twenty-nine days, one day, in which the moon is invisible, being included. They knew the fruits that would be in season, and even the prevailing weather of the months to come.

They divide the day into twelve parts, each consisting of two hours, six belonging to the day, and the other six to the night. They reckon from one to ten when they numerate, making use of their fingers, and changing hands till they come to the number which they intend to express, and in conversation they joined signs to their words, which were remarkably expressive of their meaning.

They are not so expert in measuring distances, as in computing numbers; for when they speak of the distance from one place to another, they are obliged to express it by the time that would be taken to pass it.

Their language is soft and musical, abounds with vowels, and is easy to be pronounced. But whether it is copious, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were not sufficiently acquainted with it to know. As very few either of their nouns or verbs are declinable, it must consequently be very imperfect. They found means, however, to be mutually understood without much difficulty.

284The following specimen will possibly enable the reader to form some idea of their language.

Teine, | a brother.
Tooaheine, | a sister.
Tane, | a husband.
Aree, | a chief.
Midee, | a child.
Aheine, | a woman.
Erowroo, | the head.
Matau, | the eyes.
Eahoo, | the nose.
Meyoooo, | the nails.
Huaheine, | a wife.
Oowhau, | the thighs.
Kipoo a meemhee, | a chamber-pot.
Oorè dehaiya, | a large nail.
Oorè eeteea, | a small nail.
Pahiè, | a ship.
Aihoo, | a garment.
Parawei, | a shirt.
Tumatau, | a bonnet.
Poe, | ear-rings.
Epanoo, | a drum.
Toonoah, | a mole in the skin.
Hooare, | spittle.
Epeènei, | an eccho.
Mahana, | a day.
Poa, | a night.
Otaowa, | yesterday.
Aouna, | to day.
Oboboa, | to-morrow.
Tatta te Hàmannee Màitài, | a good-natured person.
Amawhattoo, | a shrew.
Epehe, | a song.
Teà, | white.
Marroowhai, | dry.
Myty, | good.
Porai, | to talk.
Mutee, | to kiss.
Eàwow, | to scold.
Emòto, | to box.
Eei, | to eat.
Matte roah, | to die.
Mayneenee, | to tickle.
Itopa, | to fall.
Ainao, | take care.
Eeyo, | look you.
Neeheeo, | good night.
Waow, | I.
Tooanahoe, | you and I.
Wahaa, | fire.
Avy, | water.

285In respect to diseases, the natives are seldom afflicted with any, except sometimes an accidental fit of the cholic. They are subject to the erisypelas, attended with cutaneous eruptions, not unlike the leprosy; and if they have had it for any time to a certain degree, they are secluded from all society, and live alone in a small house, in some unfrequented part of the island.

Here the management of the sick falls to the lot of the priests, and their method of cure consists chiefly of prayers and ceremonies, which are repeated till the patients recover or die. If they recover, they attribute the cure to these remedies; if they die, like the medical tribe of this and every other country, they say the disease was incurable.

From their connection with the Europeans, they have entailed upon themselves that dreadful curse, the venereal disease; which, upon enquiry, evidently appeared to have been brought among them by the vessels under the command of Mons. Bougainville. It was called by a name somewhat similar, in meaning, to rottenness, but of a much stronger import; and they gave a most shocking account of the sufferings of those who were first infected with it; telling them, that their nails and hair fell off, and the flesh even rotted from their bones: and so greatly were they terrified at the dreadful effects of this alarming disease, that the infected person was forsaken even by his own relations, and left to 286perish by himself, in such a state of misery and pain as he had never before experienced.

The religion of these people appeared to be exceedingly mysterious; and as the language used on the occasion was different from that spoken in common, they were not able to obtain much information respecting it, but from what little they could learn from their friend Tupia, these Indians seemed to have adopted strange notions of the creation of the world; imagining that every thing was derived from procreation, and the conjunction of two persons. The supreme Deity, one of these two first Beings, they call Taroataihetoomoo; and the other, Tepapa. The year which is called Tettowmatatayo, is supposed to be the daughter of the two first. They also imagine, that there is an inferior race of Deities, whom they call Eatuas. They say, two of these Eatuas formerly inhabited the earth, and that the first man descended from them.

They emphatically stile the supreme Being, the Causer of Earthquakes; but their prayers are more generally addressed to Tane, supposed to be a son of the first progenitors of nature.

They believe in the existence of the soul in a separate state, and that there are two situations, differing in their degrees of happiness, which they consider as receptacles for different ranks, but not as places of reward and punishment; they suppose, that their Chiefs and principal 287people will have the preference to those of inferior rank, as they imagine their actions no way influence their future state, and that their Deities take no cognizance of them whatsoever.

The office of priest is hereditary; there are several of them, and of all ranks; the Chief is respected next to their Kings, and they are superior to the rest of the natives not only in point of divine knowledge, but also in that of navigation and astronomy.

A Priest of the New Discovered Islands in the Habit of his Order.
Tataowing Instruments.
Ornaments for the Ears

The priests here are no way concerned with the ceremony of marriage, it being a simple agreement between the man and woman; and when they chuse to separate, it is done with as little ceremony as that of their marriage.

These people do not seem to be any way guilty of idolatry, as they worship no kind of images whatever. They enter their morais with great reverence and humility, and when they bring their offering to the altar, their body is uncovered to the waist.

There is a subordination among them, that much resembles the early state of every nation in Europe under the feudal system, which secured, to a small number, the most unrestrained liberty, while the rest were abject slaves.

Their ranks or orders are, Earee rahie, which signifies King; Earee, Baron; Manahouni, Vassal; and Toutou, Villain. The Earee rahie, of which there are two, one belonging to each of the peninsulas of which this island consists, had 288great respect shewn them by all ranks. The Earees are Lords of one or more of the districts, into which each of the peninsulas is divided; and they separate their territories into lots, which are given to the Manahounies, who respectively cultivate that share which they hold under the baron. But they are only nominal cultivators, this as well as all other laborious work being done by the Toutous, or lower class of people.

The Sovereign or Earee rahie, and the Baron or Earee, are succeeded in titles and honours by their children as soon as they are born, the fathers being immediately divested of them; but they remain possessors and managers of their estates.

In case of a general attack upon the island, every district, under the command of an Earee, furnishes a proportionate number of fighting men for the defence of the common cause, and they are commanded in chief by the Earee rahie.⁠—According to Tupia’s account, the number furnished by the principal districts amounted to six thousand and upwards.

Slings, with which they are very dextrous, pikes headed with stone, and long clubs made of wood, remarkably hard and heavy, constitute their weapons. With these they fight with great obstinacy and cruelty, giving no quarter to either man, woman or child, if they fall into their hands in time of battle.

289During the stay of the Endeavour, there was a perfect good understanding between the Earee rahies of the two peninsulas, though the Earee rahie of Tiarreboo, arrogated to himself the title of King of the whole island; which the other considered, as it really was, a mere nominal claim, and only a feather in his cap. There is nothing among them substituted for money, or a general medium, by which every object may be purchased or procured; neither can any permanent good be unlawfully obtained by force or fraud; and the general commerce with women, sets aside almost every excitement for committing adultery. In a word, in a government so little polished, though distributive justice cannot be regularly administered; as there can at the same time be but few crimes for the exercise of it, the want of this justice is not so severely felt, as it would be in more civilized societies.

Thursday July the 13th, after leaving the island of Otaheite, they sailed with a gentle breeze and clear weather; and were informed by Tupia, that four islands, which he called Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola, were at the distance of about one or two days sail, and that hogs, fowls, and other refreshments, which had lately been scarce, were to be got there in abundance. They accordingly steered their course in search of these islands, and on Saturday the 15th, discovered the island of Huaheine; and on the 16th, in the morning, they 290sounded near the north-west part of the island, but found no bottom with seventy fathom. Several canoes immediately put off, but they appeared fearful of coming near the ship, till they saw Tupia, which totally removed their apprehensions,and they ventured to come alongside, and upon assurances of friendship, the King of Huaheine and his Queen went on board. Astonishment was testified by their Majesties at every thing that was shewn them; yet they made no researches, and appeared satisfied with what was presented to their observation, making no enquiry after any other objects, though it was reasonable to suppose, that a building of such novelty and extent as the ship must have afforded many curiosities. The King, whose name was Oree, made a proposal to exchange names with Captain Cook, which was readily assented to. The custom of exchanging names is very prevalent in this island, and is considered as a mark of friendship. They found the people here nearly similar to those of Otaheite in almost every circumstance, except, if Tupia might be credited, they were not addicted to thieving. Having come to an anchor in a small but fine harbour, on the west side of the island, Captain Cook went ashore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and some other gentlemen, with Tupia and the King. The instant they landed, Tupia uncovered himself as low as his waist, and desired Mr. Monkhouse to follow 291his example. Being seated, he now begun a speech, which lasted about twenty minutes; the King, who stood opposite to him, answering in what seemed to be set replies. During this discourse he delivered, at different times, a handkerchief, a black silk neckcloth, some beads and plantains, as presents to their Eatua, or Deity. He received in return for the Eatua, of the English, a hog, some young plantains, and two bunches of feathers, which were carried on board. These ceremonies were considered as a kind of ratification of a treaty between the English and the King of Huaheine.

On the 17th they went again on shore, and walked up into the country, the productions of which greatly resembled those of Otaheite; the rocks and clay seemed, however, more burnt; the boat-houses were large, and the other houses neat. The level part of the country affords the most beautiful landscapes that the imagination can possibly form an idea of; the soil is exceedingly fertile, and the shores are lined with fruit trees of different kinds, particularly the cocoa-nut, which was seen in great abundance.

They also went on shore on the 18th without Tupia, but his boy, whose name was Tayota, accompanied them, and Mr. Banks proposed taking a more perfect view of a kind of chest, or ark, which he had before observed; the lid of this ark was sewed on in a peculiar manner, and thatched with palm-nut leaves. It was 292placed upon two poles, and sustained on small carved arches of wood, the poles served to remove it from one place to another, in the manner of a sedan chair; it is very surprising, that this chest was of a form greatly resembling the ark of the Lord among the Jews; but what was still more extraordinary, the boy informed them, that it was called Ewharre no Eatua, the house of the God, but he could give no account of its meaning or utility: with some difficulty they negotiated for eleven pigs, and were not without hopes of obtaining more the next morning.

Wednesday the 19th, they carried some hatchets with them, with which they procured three very large hogs. As they proposed to sail in the afternoon, the King, accompanied by some others of the natives, came on board to take his leave, when his Majesty received from Captain Cook a small pewter plate, with the following inscription. “His Britannic Majesty’s ship Endeavour, Lieutenant Cook Commander, 16 July, 1769.” He also was presented with some medals, or counters, resembling the coin of England, and a few other trifles.

This island is situated in the latitude of 16 degrees 43 minutes south, and longitude 150 degrees 52 minutes west; it is distant from Otaheite about thirty leagues, and is about twenty miles in circumference.

293The productions of Huaheine, seem to be a month forwarder than those of Otaheite, as they found by several of the fruits, &c. Mr. Banks met with only a few new plants, but found a species of scorpion which he had not seen before.

The people are of a very lazy disposition, though they are stouter and larger made than those of Otaheite.

The women are much fairer than those of that island, and in general exceedingly handsome: both men and women seemed less susceptible of fear, and not so desirous of information.

From Huaheine they sailed for the island of Ulietea, and in the afternoon came within a league or two of the shore. The next morning, being the 20th, by the direction of Tupia, they anchored in a bay, which is formed by a reef, on the north side of the island; two canoes of natives soon came off from the shore, and brought with them two small hogs, which they exchanged for some nails and beads. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and some other gentlemen, now went on shore, accompanied by Tupia, who introduced them with the same kind of ceremonies that had taken place on their landing at Huaheine; after which, Capt. Cook took possession of this and the adjacent islands in the name of the King of Great Britain.

They then walked to a large Morai, which the natives called Tapodeboatea; they found that 294it differed considerably from the Morais of Otaheite, being composed of four walls, about eight or nine feet in height, built of very large coral-stones, which surrounded an area about thirty yards square: at a small distance they discovered an Ewhatta, or altar, upon which, as an oblation, was placed a whole hog, about a hundred pounds weight. At the front of this Morai, facing the sea, there was a kind of amphitheatre. There were likewise three or four Ewharee no Eatua, or houses of God, of the same kind as that which they saw at Huaheine.

On Friday the 21st, the Master was sent in the long-boat to inspect the coast on the south part of the island, and a Lieutenant was dispatched in the yawl, to sound the harbour where the Endeavour lay, while the Captain went in the pinnace to take a view of the coast on the north part of the island; in their return they saw a tree, of the same kind as that seen by Mr. Green at Otaheite, the circumference of the trunk, or rather congeries of the roots of which measured about forty yards.

On the 22d and 23d it being hazy weather with brisk gales, Captain Cook judged it rather unsafe to put to sea. On they 24th they got under sail, and steered to the northward within the reef, towards an opening five or six leagues distant; in effecting this, he was in the greatest danger of striking on a rock; the man who sounded, crying out on a sudden, two fathom, 295at which they were much alarmed, but happily got clear without receiving any damage.

The bay in which the Endeavour lay at anchor is called Oopoa; it is large enough to contain a great number of shipping, and is secured from the sea by a reef of rocks. It lies off the eastermost point of the island, and may be distinguished by a low woody island which lies to the south-east of it.

The provisions of this island consist chiefly of cocoa-nuts, yams, plantains, and a few hogs and fowls: that part of the country where they landed is not so fruitful as either Otaheite or Huaheine.

On the 25th they were within a league or two of the island of Otaha, but the wind continuing contrary, they could not get near enough to land till the 28th in the morning, when Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went in the long-boat, with the Master, to sound a harbour on the east side of the island, which they found safe and convenient, with good anchorage. They then went on shore, and purchased some hogs and fowls, and a large quantity of yams and plantains.

This island appeared to be more barren than Ulietea, but the produce was much the same. The natives paid them the compliment they used towards their own Kings, by uncovering their shoulders, and wrapping their cloaths 296round their bodies; taking care no one should omit doing the same.

On the 29th they made sail to the northward, and at eight o’clock next morning they were close under the high craggy peak of the island of Bolabola. The island was inaccessible in this part, and they found it impossible to weather the south end of it till late at night. The next morning, Sunday the 30th, they discovered an island, which Tupia called Maurua, who said it was small, surrounded by a reef, and without any commodious harbour, but inhabited, and yielded nearly the same produce as the adjacent islands. In the middle is a high round hill, which may be seen at eleven or twelve leagues distance.

In the afternoon, finding themselves to windward of some harbours that lay on the west side of Ulietea, they intended to put into one of them, in order to stop a leak which they had sprung in the powder-room, and to take in some additional ballast. The wind being right against them, they plied on and off till the afternoon, of the 1st of August, when they came to an anchor in the entrance of the channel which led into one of the harbours.

Wednesday 2, in the morning, when the tide turned, they came into a proper place for mooring, in twenty-eight fathom. In the interim many of the natives came off, and brought 297hogs, fowls, and plantains, which were purchased upon very moderate terms.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went on shore, and spent the day very agreeably; the natives shewing them great respect. Being conducted to the houses of the chief people, they were received in an uncommon manner. Upon their entrance into a house, they found those who had ran hastily before them, standing on each side of a long matt, spread upon the ground, and the family sitting at the further end of it. In one house they observed some very young girls, dressed in the neatest manner, who kept their places, waiting for the strangers to accost them: these girls were the most beautiful the gentlemen had ever seen.

One of them, who was about seven or eight years old, was dressed in a red gown, and her head was decorated with a great quantity of plaited hair; this ornament is called Tomou, and is held in great estimation among them. She was sitting at the upper end of one of their long mats, on which none of the people present presumed to set a foot; and her head was reclined on the arm of a decent looking woman, who appeared to be her nurse; when Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander approached her, she stretched out her hand to receive some beads, which they presented to her, with an air of such dignity and gracefulness, as would have done honour to the first princess in Europe.

298Before their departure they were entertained with a dance, different from any they had seen before. The performer put upon his head a large piece of wicker-work, about four feet long, of a cylindrical form, covered with feathers, and edged round with shark’s teeth. Having this head-dress on, which is called a Whou, he began to dance with a slow motion, frequently moving his head, so as to describe a circle with the top of his wicker cap, and sometimes throwing it so near the faces of the bye-standers, as to make them jump back; this they considered as an excellent piece of humour, and it always produced a hearty laugh, when practiced upon any of the English gentlemen.

On Thursday the 3d, as Mr. Banks and the Doctor were going along the shore to the northward, with a design to purchase stock, they met with a company of dancers, who retarded the progress of their excursion near two hours, and afforded them much diversion. The company was composed of six men and two women dancers, with three drums. They were informed, that these dancers were some of the principal people of the island, and though they were an itinerant troop, they did not, like the strolling parties of Otaheite, receive any gratuity from the by-standers. The women wore a considerable quantity of Tamou, or plaited hair, ornamented with the flowers of the cape jessamine, which were stuck in with taste, and made 299an elegant head dress. The womens necks, breasts and arms were naked; the other parts of the body were covered with black cloth, which was fastened close round them; and by the side of each breast, next the arms, was a small plume of black feathers, worn like a nosegay.

Representation of a Dance in the Island of Ulietea.

Thus apparelled they advanced sideways, keeping time with great exactness to the drums, which beat quick and loud; soon after, they began to shake themselves in a very whimsical manner, and put their bodies into a variety of strange postures, sometimes standing in a row one behind another, sometimes sitting down, and at others falling with their faces to the ground, and resting on their knees and elbows, moving their fingers at the same time with a quickness scarcely to be credited. The chief dexterity, however, of the dancers, as well as the amusement of the spectators, consisted in the lasciviousness of their attitudes and gestures, which decency forbids us to describe.

Between the dances of the women, a kind of dramatic interlude was performed by the men, consisting of dialogue as well as dancing; but for want of a sufficient knowledge of their language, they could not learn the subject of this interlude.

Friday the 4th, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some other gentlemen, were present at a more regular dramatic entertainment. The 300performers, who were all men, were divided into two parties, one dressed in brown, and the other in white, by way of distinction. Tupia being present, informed them, that the party in brown acted the parts of a master and his servants, and the party in white a gang of thieves; the master having produced a basket of meat, which he gave in charge to his servants; the white party exhibited a variety of expedients, in endeavouring to steal this basket, and the brown set as many in preventing the accomplishment of their design. After some time had been spent in this manner, those to whom the basket was entrusted, laying themselves down on the ground round it, pretended to fall asleep; the other party availing themselves of this opportunity, stole gently upon them, and carried off their booty; the servants awaking soon after discovered their loss, but they made no search after the basket, and began to dance with as much alacrity as before.

On Saturday the 5th, some hogs and fowls, and several large pieces of cloth, many of them being fifty or sixty yards in length, together with a quantity of plantains and cocoa-nuts, were sent to Captain Cook as a present, from the Earee rahie of the island of Bolabola, accompanied with a message, that he was then on the island, and intended waiting on the Captain the next day.

301On Sunday the 6th, the King of Bolabola did not visit them agreeable to his promise, his absence, however, was not in the least regretted, as he sent three very agreeable young women to demand something in return for his present. After dinner, they set out to pay the King a visit on shore, as he did not think proper to come on board. As this man was the Earee rahie of the Bolabola men, who had conquered this, and were the dread of all the neighbouring islands, they were greatly disappointed, instead of finding a vigorous, enterprising young Chief, to see a poor feeble decrepid old dotard, half blind, and sinking under the weight of age and infirmities. He received them without either that state or ceremony which they had hitherto met with among the other Chiefs.

On Wednesday the 9th, having stopped their leak, and taken on board their fresh stock of provisions, they sailed out of the harbour. Tho’ they were several leagues distant from the island of Bolabola, Tupia earnestly entreated Captain Cook, that a shot might be fired towards it; which, to gratify him, the Captain complied with. This was supposed to have been intended by Tupia as a mark of his resentment against the inhabitants of that place, as they had formerly taken from him large possessions which he held in the island of Ulietea, of which island 302Tupia was a native, and a subordinate Chief, but was driven out by these people.

They had great plenty of provisions, as well of hogs and fowls, as of vegetables, during the time they continued in the neighbourhood of those islands, so that they were not obliged to use any considerable quantity of the ship’s provisions, and they had flattered themselves, that the fowls and hogs would have supplied them with fresh provisions during the course of their voyage to the southward; but in this they were unhappily disappointed, for as the hogs could not be brought to eat any sort of European grain, or any provender whatever that the ship afforded, they were reduced to the disagreeable necessity of killing them immediately on their leaving those islands; and the fowls all died of a disease in their head, with which they were seized soon after they had been carried on board.

As they were detained longer at Ulietea in repairing the ship than they expected, they did not go on shore at Bolabola; but, after giving the general name of the Society Islands to the islands of Huhaheine, Ulietea, Bolabola, Otaha and Maurua, which lie between the latitude of 16 deg. 10 min. and 16 deg. 55 min. south, they pursued their course, standing southwardly for an island, to which they were directed by Tupia, at above an hundred leagues distant, which they discovered on Sunday the 13th, and were informed by him, that it was 303called Ohiteroa. The next morning they stood in for land, and saw several of the inhabitants along the shore; one of the Lieutenants was now dispatched in the pinnace, to sound for anchorage, and obtain what intelligence he could of the natives, respecting any land that might lay further to the south. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia went also in the boat, with the Lieutenant, when they came near the shore, they could perceive that the inhabitants were armed with lances of a considerable length. The appearance of the boat soon drew together a great number of them upon the beech, two of whom leaped into the water, and endeavoured to gain the boat, but she soon left them behind; several others made the same attempt, but with as little success.

The boat having doubled the point where they intended to land, opened a large bay, and discovered another party of the natives standing at the end of it, armed in the same manner as those they had already seen. The boat’s crew now rowed towards the shore, and began to make preparations for landing, upon which a canoe, with some of the natives on board, came off towards them; they ordered Tupia to acquaint these people, that they did not intend doing them any injury, but wanted to traffick with them with nails, which they shewed them; this information encouraged them to come along-side the boat, and they accepted 304of some nails, which were given them with much apparent pleasure and satisfaction; it soon appeared, however, to be nothing more than dissimulation; for, in a few minutes, several of them unexpectedly boarded the boat, with an intention of dragging her on shore; some musquets were immediately discharged over their heads, which had the desired effect, all of them leaping directly into the sea; and as soon as they reached the canoe, they put back to the shore as fast as they could paddle, where a vast concourse of their countrymen were assembled to receive them. They were followed to the shore by the people in the boat, who found the surf so violent, that they did not think it safe to attempt landing. They therefore coasted along the shore, in hopes of finding a place where they might land with less danger; presently after the canoe got on shore, a man with a lance in his hand ran along opposite to the boat, flourishing his weapon, and calling out with a shrill voice, which, upon enquiry of Tupia, they were informed was a mark of defiance.

Not being able to find a more convenient landing place, they returned, with a design of attempting it at the place where the canoe went on shore: as they were going back, the same mode of defiance was repeated by another warrior of a more formidable appearance than the first; having a high cap on, made of the tail 305feathers of a bird, and his body painted with streaks of a variety of colours. When this man retired, another advanced in years, with a grave and sedate countenance, made his appearance upon the beach, and asked them several questions, such as from whence they came, whither they were bound, and who they were. Tupia having answered these questions, and repeated his assurances, that our intentions were amicable, they appeared to be somewhat pacified. The people in the boat now proposed going on shore, to trade with them for such articles as they chose to dispose of, if they would quit their weapons; but they would not agree to this proposal on any other terms, than the English leaving their musquets behind them in the boat; with this, however, prudence would not permit them to comply, especially as they had so lately experienced the dissembling nature of these people. They therefore gave over all hopes of establishing a friendly intercourse with them, and returned to the ship. And as neither the bay which the boat entered, nor any other part of the island afforded either harbour or anchorage, the Captain did not think it worth while to attempt a second landing.

The people of this island are very tall, well proportioned, and have long hair, which, like the inhabitants of the other islands, they tie in a bunch on the top of their head; they are 306likewise tataowed on different parts of their bodies, but not on their posteriors.

This island does not shoot up into high peaks, like the others which they visited, but is more level and uniform, and divided into small hillocks, some of which are covered with groves of trees; they saw no bread-fruit, and not many cocoa-nut trees, but great numbers of the tree called Etoa, were planted all along the shore.

Their cloth, as well as the manner of wearing it, differed in many respects from any they had met with; all that they saw was died yellow, and painted on the outside with a variety of colours. Their habit consisted only of one piece with a hole made in the middle of it, thro’ which they put their head; it reaches as low as their knees, and is tied close round their bodies with a kind of yellow sash; some of them wear caps of the same kind as that already mentioned, and others bind their heads with a piece of cloth resembling a turban.

On Tuesday, the 15th of August, they sailed from this island to the Southward, with a fine breeze from the north, and clear pleasant weather; and on the 16th it being rather hazy, they were deceived by an appearance like several high peaks of land, for which they bore away, but the weather clearing up, convinced them of their mistake, and they resumed their course to the south.

307On Friday the 25th, they celebrated the anniversary of their leaving England, from whence they had now been absent one year: a large Cheshire cheese, which had been carefully preserved for that purpose, was brought out, and a barrel of porter tapped, which proved to be as good as any they had ever drank in England. On the 29th John Raden, the Boatswain’s mate, died; this man’s death was occasioned by drinking too freely of some rum which was given him by the Boatswain. On the 30th, about four o’clock in the morning, they saw a large comet about 60 degrees above the horizon.

On Thursday the 7th of October, they discovered land at west by north, and in the afternoon, of the next day, they came to an anchor opposite the mouth of a little river about a mile and a half from the shore. The Captain, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some other gentlemen, accompanied by a party of marines, went on shore in the evening, in the pinnace and yawl.

Having left the pinnace at the entrance of the river, Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, &c. proceeded a little farther up, when they landed, and leaving the yawl to the care of some of their boys, went up to a few small houses which they saw at a little distance. Taking the advantage of their absence from the boat, some of the natives, who had concealed themselves behind the bushes, suddenly rushed out, and ran towards 308it, brandishing the long wooden lances which they had in their hands in a threatening manner. The boys perceiving them, instantly dropt down the stream, but were very closely pursued by the Indians; the Cockswain of the pinnace therefore fired a musquetoon over their heads, which did not seem to intimidate them, as they still continued their pursuit; he then fired a second time over their heads, but with no better effect; alarmed at the situation of the boat, as they were now got near enough to discharge their lances at it, the Cockswain levelled his piece at them, and shot one man dead on the spot. Struck with astonishment at the fall of their companion, the others stood motionless for some time, but as soon as they recovered from their fright, retreated to the woods with the utmost precipitation. The report of the gun soon brought the advanced party back to the boats, and both the pinnace and yawl immediately returned to the ship.

On Monday the 9th in the morning, a great number of the natives were seen near the place where the gentlemen in the yawl had landed the preceding evening, and the greatest part of them appeared to be unarmed. The long-boat, pinnace and yawl, being ordered out, and manned with marines and sailors, Captain Cook, together with Mr. Banks, the rest of the gentlemen and Tupia went on shore, and landed on the opposite side of the river, over against several 309Indians who were sitting on the ground; as soon as the gentlemen began to land, they immediately started up, each producing either a long pike, or a kind of truncheon made of stone, with a string through the handle of it, which they twisted round their wrist. Tupia was ordered to speak to them in his language; and the gentlemen were agreeably surprized to find that he was well understood, the natives speaking the Otaheitean language, only in a different dialect. Their intentions at first appeared to be very hostile, brandishing their weapons in the usual threatening manner; upon which a musquet was fired at some distance from them, at the effect of which the ball happening to strike the water, they appeared rather terrified, and desisted from their menaces. The marines being drawn up, the Captain, with four or five of the gentlemen and Tupia, advanced nearer to the side of the river; Tupia again spoke to them, and informed them, that they wanted to traffick with them for provisions. They readily consented to trade, and requested the English gentlemen to cross the river and come over to them; which was agreed to, upon condition that the natives would quit their weapons; but this the most solemn assurances of friendship could not prevail on them to comply with. Not thinking it prudent therefore to cross the river, as they would not be persuaded to lay by their arms, the gentlemen in their turn intreated 310the Indians to come over to them, which after some time they prevailed on one of them to do; he was presently followed by several others, bringing their weapons with them. They did not appear to set any great value on the beads, iron, &c. which was presented to them, nor would they give any thing in return, but proposed to exchange their weapons for those belonging to the English, which being consequently objected to, they endeavoured several times to snatch them out of their hands. But as the gentlemen were on their guard, from the information given them by Tupia that they were still their enemies, their attempts to seize the arms were repeatedly frustrated, and Tupia, by the direction of the gentlemen, gave them notice, that any further offer of violence would be punished with instant death. One of them had, nevertheless, the audacity to snatch Mr. Green’s hanger, and retiring a few paces, flourished it over his head; he, however, paid for this temerity with his life, Mr. Monkhouse firing at him with a musquet loaded with ball; and that gentleman afterwards, with some difficulty, recovered the hanger, one of the Indians endeavouring to seize it.

This behaviour of the natives, added to the want of fresh water, induced Captain Cook to continue his course round the head of the bay. He was still in hopes of getting some of 311the Indians on board, and by presents, added to civil usage, convey through them a favourable idea of the English to their fellow countrymen; and thereby settle a good correspondence with them. Soon after an event occured, though attended with disagreeable circumstances, that promised to facilitate this design. Two canoes appeared making towards land, and Captain Cook proposed intercepting them with his boats. One of them got clear off, but the Indians in the other finding it impossible to escape the boats, began to attack them with their paddles: this compelled the Endeavour’s people to fire upon them, when four of the Indians were killed, and the other three, who were youths, jumped into the water, and endeavoured to swim to shore: they were however taken up and brought on board. They were at first greatly terrified, thinking they should be killed; but Tupia, by repeated assurances of friendship, removed their fears, and they afterwards eat very heartily of the ship’s provisions. When they retired to rest, in the evening, they appeared perfectly easy in their minds, and slept very quietly for some hours, but in the middle of the night their fears again returned, and they appeared in great agitation, frequently making loud and dismal groans. After some time, however, the friendly promises and kind caresses of Tupia again prevailed over their fears, and they became so calm and resigned 312as to sing a song, the tune of which was solemn and slow, and, at the dead of night, when an universal silence prevailed throughout the ship, had an awful and pleasing effect. The next morning, after they were dressed and ornamented, according to the mode of their country, with necklaces and bracelets, Captain Cook proposed setting them on shore, that they might give a favourable report to their countrymen of the reception they had met with. They testified much satisfaction when told they were going to be released: but seemed under great apprehensions of danger, at finding the boat approach Captain Cook’s first landing-place, intimating, that the inhabitants here were their foes, and that they always killed and ate their enemies. The Captain, nevertheless, judged it expedient to land near the same spot, which he accordingly did with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander and Tupia, resolving at the same time to protect the youths from any injury that might be offered them. The gentlemen had not been long on shore before the boys left them, but on seeing two large parties of the Indians advancing hastily towards them, they returned, and again put themselves under their protection. As the Indians drew nearer, one of the boys discovered his uncle amongst them, and a conversation took place between them across the river, in which the lad gave a very just account of the hospitality he had met with, and took great pains 313to display their cloaths and finery. Soon after the uncle swam across the river, bringing with him a green bow, as a token of friendship, which was received as such, and several presents were made him. The body of the Indian, who was shot the day before, lay in the same place where he fell: one of the boys had covered it with part of his cloaths; and after the gentlemen had retired, the Indian performed a kind of ceremony over it, by throwing a green branch towards it, and the body was afterwards carried in a raft across the river. Notwithstanding the presence of the uncle of one of the boys, all three of them, by their own desire, returned to the ship, but as the Captain intended sailing the next morning, he sent them on shore again in the evening, though much against their inclination; the names of these boys were Taahourange, Koikerange and Maragovete. They informed Captain Cook, that there was a particular kind of deer upon the island, likewise taro, eapes, romara, yams, a kind of long pepper, bald coote, and black birds.

On the 11th Captain Cook set sail, in hopes of finding a better anchoring place, after giving this bay (called by the natives Toaneora) the name of Poverty Bay; and the south-west point he called Young Nick’s Head, on account of its being first perceived by a lad on board named Nicholas Young. They were becalmed in the afternoon, and several canoes came off 314from the shore with Indians, who received many presents, and afterwards bartered even their cloaths, and some of their paddles, so eager were they of being possessed of as many European commodities as possible. A single tree formed the bottom of their canoes, and the upper part consisted of two planks sewed together: they sat on thwarts; their paddles were painted red, representing many uncommon figures, and were curiously wrought.

They were armed with bludgeons made of wood, and of the bone of a large animal; they called them Patoo, Patoo, and they were well contrived for close fighting.

After they had finished their traffic, they set off in such a hurry, that they forgot three of their companions, who remained on board all night.

They testified their fears and apprehensions, notwithstanding Tupia took great pains to convince them they were in no danger; and about seven the next morning a canoe came off, with four Indians on board. It was at first with difficulty the Indians in the ship could prevail on those in the canoe to come near them; and it was not till after the former had assured them that the English did not eat men, that they came along-side the Endeavour. The Chief came on board, whose face was tataowed, with a remarkable patoo patoo in his hand; and in this canoe the three Indians left the ship. 315Captain Cook gave the name of Cape Table to a point of land about seven leagues to the south of Poverty Bay, its figure greatly resembling a table; and the island, called by the natives Teabowry, he named Portland Island, it being very similar to that of the same name in the British Channel. It is joined to the main by a chain of rocks, near a mile in length, partly above water. There are several shoals, called shambles, about three miles to the north-east of Portland, one of which the Endeavour narrowly escaped; there is, however, a passage between them with 20 fathom water. Some parts of Portland Island, as well as the Main, were cultivated; and pumice-stone in great quantities lying along the shore, within the bay, indicated that there is a volcano in the island. High pailings upon the ridges of hills were also visible in two places, which were judged to be designed for religious purposes.

On the 12th several Indians came off in a canoe; they were disfigured in a strange manner, danced and sung, and appeared at times to be peaceably inclined, and at others to menace hostilities; but, notwithstanding Tupia strongly invited them to come on board, none of them would quit the canoe. Whilst the Endeavour was getting clear of the shambles, five canoes full of Indians came off, and seemed to threaten the people on board, by brandishing their lances, and other hostile gestures; a 316four pounder, loaded with grape shot, was therefore ordered to be fired, but not pointed at them. This had the desired effect, and made them drop a-stern. Two more canoes came off, whilst the Endeavour lay at anchor; but the Indians on board behaved very peaceably and quiet, and received several presents, but would not come on board.

On Friday the 13th, in the morning, they made for an inlet, but finding it not sheltered they stood out again, and were chaced by a canoe, filled with Indians, but the Endeavour out-sailed them. She pursued her course round the bay, but did not find an opening.

The next morning they had a view of the inland country; it was mountainous, and covered with snow in the interior parts, but the land towards the sea was flat and uncultivated, and in may places there were groves of high trees. Nine canoes full of Indians came from the shore, and five of them, after having consulted together, pursued the Endeavour, apparently with an hostile design. Tupia was desired to acquaint them that immediate destruction would ensue, if they persevered in their attempts; but words had no influence, and a four pounder, with grape shot, was fired, to give them some notion of the arms of their opponents. They were terrified at this kind of reasoning, and paddled away faster than they came. Tupia then hailed the fugitives, and 317acquainted them, that if they came in a peaceable manner, and left their arms behind, no annoyance would be offered them: one of the canoes submitting to these terms, came along side the ship, and received many presents; but the other canoes returning, and persisting in the same menacing behaviour, interrupted this friendly intercourse.

The following day, Sunday the 15th, they were visited by some fishing boats, the people in which conducted themselves in an amicable manner; though the fish which they had on board had been caught so long that they were not eatable, Captain Cook purchased them, merely for the sake of promoting a traffick with the natives. In the afternoon a large canoe, with a number of armed Indians, came up, and one of them who was remarkably cloathed, with a black skin, found means to defraud the Captain of a piece of red baize, under pretence of bartering the skin he had on for it. As soon as he had got the baize into his possession, instead of giving the skin in return agreeable to his bargain, he rolled them up together, and ordered the canoe to put off from the ship, turning a deaf ear to the repeated remonstrances of the Captain against his unjust behaviour. After a short time this canoe, together with the fishing boats which had put off at the same time, came back to the ship, and trade was again begun. During this second 318traffick with the Indians, one of them unexpectedly seized Tupia’s little boy Tayota, and pulling him into his canoe instantly put her off, and paddled away with the utmost speed; several musquets were immediately discharged at the people in the canoe, and one of them receiving a wound they all let go the boy, who before was held down in the bottom of the canoe. Tayota taking the advantage of their consternation, immediately jumped into the sea, and swam back towards the Endeavour, he was taken on board, without having received any harm; but his strength was so much exhausted with the weight of his cloaths, that it was with great difficulty he reached the ship. In consequence of this attempt to carry off Tayota, Captain Cook called the Cape off which it happened Cape Kidnappers, lying in latitude 39 deg. 43 min. and longitude 182 deg. 24 min. west, and is very distinguishable by high cliffs and white rocks, that surround it. Its distance from Portland Island is about 13 leagues, forming the south point of a bay, which the Captain named Hawke’s Bay, in honour of Sir Edward, who then presided at the admiralty board.

As every circumstance that tends to elucidate the manners and customs of these people must attract the attention of the curious reader, we cannot omit Tayota’s behaviour upon recovering from his fright, occasioned by his being kidnapped. He produced a fish, and acquainted 319Tupia, that he designed to make an offering of it to his God, or Eatua, as a testimonial of his gratitude for his deliverance. Tupia approved of his intention, and by his direction the fish was cast into the sea. This is an evident proof, that even these unenlightened savages, by the mere impulse of nature, believe in the existence of a particular providence.

The Endeavour now passed a small island, white and high, supposed to be inhabited only by fishermen, as it appeared quite barren, and was named Bare Island. On the 17th Captain Cook gave the name of Cape Turn Again to a head-land, in latitude 40 deg. 34 min. S. longitude, 182 deg. 55 min. west, because the Endeavour here turned again. Before the Endeavour touched at New Zealand, it was not certainly known whether it was an island, or part of the continent, wherefore the lords of the admiralty had, by their instructions, directed Captain Cook to sail along the coasts as far as 40 degrees south latitude, and from thence, if the land appeared to extend farther, to return again to the northward. Agreeable to these instructions, the Captain being opposite to Cape Turn Again, changed his course from south to north; and the wind having likewise veered to the south, he returned nearly in his former track, sailing along the coast. This Cape is remarkable for a stratum of clay of a bright brown colour; its prominence gradually diminishes towards 320the north-side, but to the south its descent is not so regular.

The land between this Cape and Kidnapper’s Bay is unequal, and resembles the high downs of England. There appeared numerous inhabitants, and several villages. Wednesday the 18th the Endeavour came a-breast of a peninsula in Portland Island, named Terakako, when a canoe, with five Indians, came up to the ship. Two Chiefs who were in this canoe came on board, where they remained all night, and were treated with great civility. One of the Chiefs was a remarkable comely man, and his countenance was open and prepossessing. Their curiosity was uncommon, and their acknowledgments, for the trifling presents they received, were extremely grateful. The Chiefs would neither eat nor drink, but the servants made up for their masters abstinence, by their voracious appetites. The three boys had given these natives an account of the hospitality and liberality of the English, which had prevailed upon them to pay this visit.

Thursday the 19th the Endeavour passed a remarkable head land, which Captain Cook named Gable End Foreland. It is distinguished by a rock, in the shape of a church spire, which is very near it. Here three canoes came up, and one Indian came on board; he received some small presents, and retired to his companions. 321He wore a new garment of white silky flax, with a border of black, red and white.

Many of the Indians had pieces of green-stone round their necks, by way of necklaces; they were transparent, like an emerald, and appeared, on examination, to be a species of Nephritic-stone, of which all their ornaments of this kind consisted. Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen obtained several pieces of it.

The dialect of these Indians was not so guttural as that of the others, and they spoke the most like the inhabitants of Otaheite. The physiognomy of some was agreeable, their noses being rather prominent than flat.

On the 20th they anchored in a bay, about two leagues to the north of the Foreland. The natives in canoes invited them hither, and behaved very amicably. There appeared to be two Chiefs, who came on board: they received presents of linen, which gave them much satisfaction; but they did not hold spike-nails in such estimation as the inhabitants of some of the islands. They were dressed in jackets, the one ornamented with tufts of red feathers, the other with dog’s skin. The other Indians in the canoes traded with the Endeavour’s people, without attempting any imposition; and towards the evening the Chiefs returned. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, now went on shore, and were courteously received by the inhabitants, who did not appear in numerous bodies, 322to avoid giving offence. They received several trifling presents, and the Captain had the pleasure to find fresh water, in the course of a tour round the bay. They remained on shore all night, and next day Mr. Banks and the Doctor discovered several plants, and many beautiful birds, particularly quails and large pigeons. There were some houses with fences, to shelter them from the wind, and many stages for drying fish near the place where the gentlemen landed. Dogs with small pointed ears, and very ugly, were the only tame animals among them. At the watering-place the Captain ordered a line to be drawn, and enjoined the natives not to pass it, which injunction they civilly complied with. Many houses were contiguous, and the lands in the adjacent vallies were regular flats, neatly laid out in small plantations, the ground appearing to be broken, as if designed for gardens. They have sweet potatoes, like those of North America, in great quantities; and the cloth plant grows here spontaneously. There is plenty of fish in the bay, such as crabs, cray-fish, and ship-jacks or horse mackrel, which are larger than those upon our coasts. The number of supple jacks that grow in the adjacent woods, render them almost impassable; but they thereby afford shelter to their feathered inhabitants: the flat land was planted with cocos, and the hollow parts with gourds. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander visited several of 323the natives houses, and they met with a very civil reception. Fish constituted their principal food at this time, and the root of a sort of fern served them for bread, which when roasted upon a fire, and divested of its bark, was sweet and clammy; in taste not disagreeable, but unpleasant from its number of fibres. Vegetables were, doubtless, at other seasons very plentiful. The women paint their faces red, which so far from increasing, diminishes the very little beauty they have. The mens faces were not in general painted, but some were rubbed over with red ocre from head to foot, their apparel not excepted. Though they could not be compared to the inhabitants of Otaheite for cleanliness in general, they surpassed them in this respect in some particulars. Every dwelling was supplied with a privy, and they had dunghills for depositing dirt and filth. The women wore a girdle made of the blade of grass under a petticoat, and to this girdle was tied in front a bunch of fragrant leaves. They seemed to hold chastity in but little estimation, many of the young females resorting to the watering-place, where they bountifully bestowed every favour that was requested. One of the officers on shore, meeting with an elderly woman, he accompanied her to her house, and having presented her with some cloth and beads, a young girl was singled out, and he was given to understand he might retire with her. Soon after an elderly man, 324with two women, came in as visitors, and with much formality saluted all the company, according to the custom of the place, which is by gently joining the tips of their noses together. The officer upon his return was furnished with a guide, who led him a much better road than that he had come, and whenever they came to a brook or rivulet, the Indian took him upon his back to preserve him from being wet; several of the inhabitants were curiously tataowed, and one old man, in particular, was marked on the breast with various figures. There was an axe made of the green stone, already mentioned, which could not be purchased, though many things were offered in exchange. At night they danced in a very uncouth manner, making antick gestures, lolling out their tongues, with other strange grimaces; and in these dances old men with grey beards were, as well as the young ones, capital performers. They carried their civility so far, as to assist Mr. Banks and his company with one of their canoes to carry them on board; but the Endeavour’s people being unacquainted with the method of steering such a vessel, she was overset, but no one was drowned; and they reached the ship without any farther accident, some of the Indians having voluntarily engaged to conduct her. During the stay of the gentlemen on shore, many of the natives went off in their canoes, and trafficked with the ship’s company, 325preferring at first the cloth of Otaheite to that of Europe; but it soon diminished in its value. Several of the Indians went on board, and testified their curiosity and surprise, with regard to the different parts of the ship.

Sunday 22, in the evening, they sailed from this bay, which by the natives is called Tegadoo, and lies in latitude 38 deg. 10 min. south. The wind being contrary, they put into another bay a little to the south, called by the natives Tolaga, in order to complete their wood and water, and extend their correspondence with the natives; in this bay they came to an anchor in about eleven fathom water, with a good sandy bottom. Several canoes appeared, with Indians on board, and they trafficked very fairly for glass bottles and cloth. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and the Doctor, went in the afternoon to examine the water, and found it extremely good; here was also plenty of wood, and the natives behaved with as much civility as those they had just departed from.

On the 24th, Mr. Gore and the marines were sent on shore, to guard the people employed in cutting wood and filling water. Captain Cook, Mr. Banks and the Doctor also went on shore; the two latter employed themselves in collecting plants. In their route they found in the vales many houses uninhabited, the natives residing chiefly in slight sheds, on the ridges of the hills, which are very steep. In a valley between two 326very high hills they saw a curious rock, that formed a large arch, opposite to the sea; this cavity was in length above seventy feet, in breadth thirty, and near fifty in height; it commanded a view of the hills and the bay, which had a very happy effect. Indeed, the whole country about the bay is agreeable beyond description, and if properly cultivated would be a most fertile spot. The hills are covered with beautiful flowering shrubs, intermixed with a great number of tall and stately palms, which perfume the air, and make it most agreeably odoriferous. Mr. Banks and the Doctor found the tree that produces the cabbage, which, when boiled, was very good; and some other trees that yielded a fine transparent gum. Between the hills were fruitful villages, that might have been successfully cultivated, or turned into pasturage. Various kinds of edible herbage, were met with in great abundance, and there was reason to believe there were many trees that produced fruit fit to eat, some of which the gentlemen examined. The plant, from which the cloth is made, is a kind of Hemerocallis, the leaves of which afford a strong glossy flax, equally adapted to cloathing, as making of ropes. There are sweet potatoes and yam plantations near their houses, which are carefully cultivated. These gentlemen, upon their return, met an old man, who entertained them with the military exercises of the natives, 327which are performed with the Patoo Patoo, and the lance. The former has already been mentioned, and is used as a battle-axe; the latter is ten or twelve feet in length, made of extreme hard wood, and sharpened at each end. A stake was substituted for their old warriors supposed enemy; he first attacked him with his lance, when, having pierced him, the Patoo Patoo was used to demolish his head, and the force with which he struck would at one blow have split any man’s skull. This mode of fighting induced the gentlemen to believe no quarter was ever given here in war. The natives in this part are not very numerous; they are tolerably well shaped, but lean and tall; their faces resemble those of Europeans; their noses are aqueline; their eyes dark coloured; their hair is black, which is tied up on the top of their heads, and their beards are of a moderate length. Their tataowing is done very curiously in various figures, which makes their skin resemble carving; it is confined to the principal men, the females and servants using only red paint, with which they daub their faces, that otherwise would not be disagreeable. Their cloth is white, glossy and very even; it is worn principally by the men, though it is wrought by the women, who, indeed, are condemned to all the drudgery and labour.

View of a perforated Rock in Tolago Bay
The Head of a new Zealand Chief curiously Tataowed.

On the 25th an armourer’s forge was set up on shore for necessary uses. Mr. Banks and 328Dr. Solander went again in search of plants. Tupia, who was with them engaged in a conversation with one of the priests, and they seemed to agree in their opinions upon the subject of religion. Tupia, in the course of this conference, enquired, whether the report of their eating men was founded in truth; to which the priest replied it was, but that they ate none but declared foes, after they were killed in war. This idea is, however, horrid and barbarous, and proves that they carry their resentment even beyond death.

Captain Cook and Dr. Solander went on the 27th to inspect the bay, when the Doctor was not a little surprised to find the natives in the possession of a boy’s top, which they knew how to spin by whipping it, and he purchased it out of curiosity. Mr. Banks was during this time employed in attaining the summit of a steep hill, that had previously engaged their attention; and near it he found many uninhabited houses. Here were two rows of poles about fourteen or fifteen feet high, covered over with sticks, which made an avenue of about five feet in width, extending near a hundred yards down the hill in an irregular line: the intent of this erection was not discovered. When the gentlemen met at the watering-place, the Indians, by desire, sung their war song, which was a strange medley of shouting, sighing and grimace, at which the women assisted. The next 329day Captain Cook and the other gentlemen went upon an island at the entrance of the bay, and met with a canoe that was sixty seven feet in length, six in breadth, and four in height; her bottom, which was sharp, consisted of three trunks of trees, and the sides and head were curiously carved. There was a large unfinished house upon this island; the posts which supported it were ornamented with carvings, that did not appear to be done upon the spot; and as the inhabitants seem to set a great value upon works of this kind, future navigators might find their advantage in carrying such articles to trade with. Though the posts of this house were judged to be brought here, the people have certainly a taste for carving, as their boats, paddles, and tops of walking-sticks evince. Their favourite figure is a volute or spiral, which is sometimes single, double and triple, and is done with great exactness, though the only instruments the gentlemen saw were an axe made of stone, and a chissel. Their taste, however, must be acknowledged whimsical and extravagant, scarce ever imitating nature.

Their huts are built under trees; their form is an oblong square: the door is low on the side, and the windows are at the ends; reeds, covered with thatch, compose the walls; the beams of the eaves, which come to the ground, are covered with thatch; most of the houses the gentlemen saw had been deserted, through fear 330of the English upon their landing. There are many beautiful parrots, and great numbers of birds of different kinds, particularly one whose note resembled the European black bird; but here is no ground fowl or poultry; nor were there any quadrupeds, except rats and dogs, and these were not numerous. The dogs are considered as delicate food, and their skins serve for ornaments to their apparel. There is a great variety of fish in the bay: shell and crayfish is very plentiful; some of the latter weigh near a dozen pounds.

Sunday, Oct 29, they set sail from this bay, which is called by the natives Tolaga. It is seated in latitude 38 deg. 22 min. south, four leagues to the north of Gable end Foreland: there are two high rocks at the entrance of the bay, which form a cove very convenient for procuring wood and water. There is a high rocky island off the north point of the bay, which affords good anchorage, having a fine sandy bottom, and from seven to thirteen fathom water, and is likewise sheltered from all but the north-east wind.

Captain Cook obtained nothing here in trade but some sweet potatoes, and a little fish. This is a very hilly country, though it presents the eye with an agreeable verdure, various woods, and many small plantations. Mr. Banks met with a great number of trees in the woods, quite unknown to Europeans; the firewood resembled 331the maple tree, and produced a gum of whitish colour; other trees yielded a gum of deep yellow green. The only roots they met with were yams and sweet potatoes, though the soil appears very proper for producing every species of vegetables.

Sailing to the northward, they fell in with a small island, about a mile distant from the north-east point of the main; and this being the most eastern part of it, the Captain named it East Cape, and the island East Island: it was but small, and appeared barren. The cape is in latitude 37 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds south. There are many small bays from Tolaga Bay to East Cape. When the Endeavour had doubled the cape, many villages presented themselves to view, and the adjacent land appeared cultivated. In the evening of the 30th, Lieutenant Hicks discovered a bay, to which his name was given. Next morning, about nine, several canoes came off from shore with a number of armed men, who appeared to have hostile intentions. Before these had reached the ship, another canoe, larger than any that had yet been seen, full of armed Indians came off, and made towards the Endeavour with great expedition. The Captain now judging it expedient to prevent, if possible, their attacking him, ordered a gun to be fired over their heads; this not producing the desired effect, another gun was fired with ball, which threw them into such consternation, 332that they immediately returned much faster than they came. This precipitate retreat, induced the Captain to give the cape, off which it happened, the name of Cape Runaway, which lies in latitude 37 degrees 32 minutes, longitude 181 degrees 48 minutes. Next morning, at day break, they saw between forty and fifty canoes along shore, many of which came off in the manner they had done the day before, shouting, and menacing an attack. One of their Chiefs in the largest of the canoes made several harangues, and by the menacing flourish of his pike, seemed to bid the ship defiance; but the gentlemen continuing to invite them to trade, they at last came close along-side, and the Chief who had been declaiming, after uttering a sentence, took up a stone and threw it against the side of the ship, which appeared to be a declaration of hostilities, as they instantly seized their arms; Tupia told them, that immediate destruction would ensue, if they persevered in their design, and at the same time assured them of the gentlemens pacific intentions, and that they only wanted to traffick with them. Neither his threats nor persuasions would probably have had any effect, had he not at the same time shewn them some pieces of cloth, which attracted their eye, and brought them to reason. The gentlemen now purchased a great quantity of cray-fish, muscles and conger-eels. These Indians did not attempt 333any fraud in their trading; but some others, who succeeded them, took the goods from the ship without making proper returns: one of them, who had been particularly culpable, and seemed to pride himself upon his cunning, putting off with his canoe, was brought back by a musquet being fired over his head, and this presently produced good order. But when the sailors began to traffick with the Indians, they renewed their former fraudulent practices, with great insolence. One of them seized some linen that was hanging to dry, and made off with it; a musquet was fired over his head to make him return, but this did not prevail, and even after another was fired at him with small shot, which hit him in the back, he still persevered in his design. Upon this the rest of the Indians dropt a-stern at some distance, and set up their song of defiance. They did not, however, make any preparations for attacking the ship; but the Captain judged, that if he suffered them to go off without convincing them of his power of avenging the insult, it might give an unfavourable opinion of the English, to the natives on shore. He accordingly fired a four pounder, which passed over them, and the effect it had in the water terrified them so greatly, that they made to shore with the utmost precipitancy. In the afternoon they descried a high island to the west, and some time after perceived some other islands and rocks in the same 334quarter; not being able to weather them before night came on, they bore up between them and the main-land. About seven in the evening a double canoe, built like those at Otaheite, but carved after their peculiar manner, came up to the ship, and Tupia entered into a friendly conversation with the Indians on board; when, on a sudden, it being now dark, they pelted the ship with stones, and then retreated. Tupia was told by the Indians in the canoe, that the island close to which the Endeavour lay, was called Mowtohera; it was but a few miles from the main-land, of no great extent, but pretty high. They saw a high round mountain, south-west by west of Mowtohera, which the Captain named Mount Edgecombe.

The next morning, November 2, many canoes made their appearance, and one, which proved to be the same that gave the salute the night before, came up, and Tupia again engaged in conversation with the people in her. After behaving very peaceably about an hour, the fit of pelting again seized them, and they gave the ship another volley of stones; but a musquet being fired, they instantly took to their paddles.

In the forenoon, of the same day, the Endeavour sailed between a low flat island and the main: the villages upon the latter were more extensive than any they had yet seen. They were upon the high land next the sea, and were 335surrounded by a bank with rails on the top of it, and a ditch. There were some inclosures that resembled forts, and the whole had the appearance of fortified places. The Endeavour passed the night under an island about twenty miles from the main, which they named the Mayor. In the morning of the 3d, they gave the name of the Court of Aldermen to a number of small islands that lay contiguous, about twelve miles from the main, between which there are several other small islands mostly barren, but very high. The aspect of the main-land was now much changed, the soil appearing barren, and the country very thinly inhabited. The Chief, who governed the district from Cape Turnagain to this coast, was named Teratu.

On Friday the 3d, three canoes came a-longside with several Indians. These canoes were built very different from the others, being formed of the trunks of single trees, made hollow by burning: they were not carved, or in any shape ornamented. These Indians were of a darker complexion than the others, but made use of the same modes of defiance, and threw several stones and some of their lances into the ship.

The same afternoon the Endeavour sailed towards an inlet they had discovered, and anchored in seven fathom water. She was soon after surrounded by several canoes, and the Indians 336at first did not shew any signs that they intended committing hostilities. One of the Endeavour’s people shot a bird, which the Indians conveyed on board, without testifying any surprise at the event. For their civility, the Captain gave them a piece of cloth. But this favour had a very opposite influence to what was expected, for when it grew dark, they sung one of their menacing songs, and attempted to carry off the anchor’s buoy. Some musquets were now fired over them, which seemed rather to irritate than terrify them, and upon their going off, they threatened to return the next morning in greater numbers; they came back however the same night about eleven o’clock, in hopes of surprising the ship’s crew; but finding them on their guard, they again retired.

In the morning of the 4th, a great number of canoes, with near two hundred men, armed with spears, lances and stones, made their appearance, seemingly resolved to attack the ship, and desirous of boarding her, but could not determine at what part, changing their stations, and paddling round her. These motions kept the crew upon the watch, in the rain, whilst Tupia, at the request of the Captain, used every dissuasive argument he could suggest to prevent their carrying their apparent designs into execution; but his expostulations did not pacify them till some musquets were fired; they then laid aside their hostile intentions, and began 337to trade: they sold two of their weapons without fraud, but a third, for which they had received cloth, they would not deliver up, and instead of paying any attention to the demand that was made of it, they only laughed at them, and turned their expostulations into ridicule. As the Captain proposed to stay some days at this place, that he might observe the Transit of Mercury, he judged it expedient to chastise these people for their insolence and knavery; accordingly some small shot were fired upon the principal offender, and a musquet-ball went through his canoe. His companions left him to his fate, without taking the least notice of him, though he was wounded, and continued to trade without any discomposure. They for some time traded very fairly, but returning to their male practices, another canoe was fired upon, and struck: they soon after paddled away, whilst a round shot was fired over them.

Thus we find, that theft and chicane are as prevalent amongst the inhabitants of New Zealand, as those of Otaheite; from whence we might conclude, that in all uncivilized nations, probity is not considered as a virtue, or theft as a vice. Having no punishment for crimes of this kind, it may be urged, that they are not taught to consider them as such; but if nature has implanted in us just ideas of right and wrong, they must operate as forcibly upon the inhabitants under the line, as on those of other climes; 338and a native of Otaheite must be equally conscious of a breach of natural justice as the most polished European. However, as this is establishing the doctrine of innate ideas, which would lead us into a large field of controversy, we shall leave the reader to his own opinion upon this subject.

In searching for a convenient anchoring-place, the Captain saw a village upon a high point, near the head of the bay, fortified like those villages already mentioned. Having met with a place to his mind near where the Endeavour lay, he returned to the ship, and sailed to that spot, where he cast anchor.

Several of the Indians came off to the ship on the 5th, but behaved much better than they had done the preceding day. They had with them an old man, who had before testified his probity and discretion; and he appeared to be of superior rank to the rest. He came on board with another Indian, when the Captain presented them with some nails, and two pieces of cloth of English manufacture. Tojava (which was the name of the old man) informed Mr. Banks, that the natives had been in great terror of the English; when he was informed, that the Captain and his people had no ill design against the Indians; but, on the contrary, wanted to establish a friendly intercourse, and to traffick with them. Tojava then acquainted the Captain, that they were often visited by freebooters 339from the north, who stripped them of all they could lay their hands on, and often made captives of their children and wives; and that being ignorant who the English were upon their first arrival, the natives had taken the alarm upon the ship’s appearing off the coast, but were now satisfied of their good intent. He added, that to secure themselves from these plunderers, their houses were built contiguous near the tops of rocks, where they are more able to defend themselves. Probably their poverty and misery may be ascribed to the ravages of this banditti, who often strip them of every necessary of life. Whilst they were fishing for mullets in the bay, the Indians who were upon the banks testified their friendship by every possible means, and gave them an invitation to come on shore.

The assurances of friendship, which they had received from the gentlemen on board, seemed to have a proper influence upon the natives, who were now very tractable and submissive, and behaved with much civility to the people in the long-boat, which was again dispatched into the bay to fish, but with little success; the Indians however brought great quantities of fish, dressed and dried; and though they were very indifferent, they were purchased, that trade might not be discouraged. In a word, the natives now treated the English with great hospitality; a large supply of wood and 340good water was obtained, and the ship, being very foul, was heeled, and her bottom scrubbed in the bay.

November the 8th the ship was visited by several canoes, in one of which was Tojava, who perceiving two strange canoes paddling from the opposite shore, suddenly turned about, and acquainted the Captain that he was under apprehensions, the people in them were some of the freebooters, but he soon found his mistake, and returned to the ship. The Indians supplied the ship’s crew with as much excellent fish, resembling mackrel, as was sufficient for all their dinners, for which they gave them some pieces of cloth.

A great variety of plants were this day collected by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; they had never observed any of the kind before. These gentlemen remained on shore till near dark, when they observed the manner of the natives disposing of themselves during the night. They lay under some bushes; the men nearest the sea in a semicircular form, and the women and children the most distant from it; their arms were placed against trees very near them, to defend themselves in case of a surprize from the freebooters. They had no king, whose sovereignty they acknowledged, which was a circumstance unparalleled on any other parts of the coast.

341Early in the morning of the 9th, several canoes brought a prodigious quantity of mackrel, one sort of which was no way different from the mackrel caught on our coast. These canoes were succeeded by many others, equally well loaded with the same sort of fish; and the cargoes purchased were so great, that when salted, they might be considered as a month’s provision for the whole ship’s company.

This being a very clear day, the astronomer (Mr. Green) and the other gentlemen landed to observe the Transit of Mercury, and whilst the observation was making, a large canoe, with various commodities on board, came alongside the ship and Mr. Gore, the officer who had then the command, being desirous of encouraging them to traffick, produced a piece of Otaheitean cloth, of more value than any they had yet seen, which was immediately seized by one of the Indians, who obstinately refused either to return it, or give any thing in exchange; he paid dearly however for his temerity, being shot dead on the spot.

The death of this young Indian alarmed all the rest; they fled with great precipitancy, and for the present could not be induced to renew their traffick with the English. But when the Indians on shore had heard the particulars related by Tojava, who greatly condemned the conduct of the deceased, they seemed to think 342that he merited his fate. His name proved to be Otirreeoonooe.

This transaction happened, as has been mentioned, whilst the observation was making of the Transit of Mercury, when the weather was so favourable, that the whole Transit was viewed without a cloud intervening. Mr. Green made the observation of the ingress, whilst Captain Cook was engaged in ascertaining the time, by taking the sun’s altitude. The Transit commenced at 7 hours, 20 min. 58 sec. by Mr. Green’s observation the internal contact was at 12 hours, 8 min. 57 sec. the external at 12 hours, 9 min. 54 sec. the latitude 30 deg. 48 min. 5 sec. In consequence of this observation having been made here, this bay was called Mercury Bay.

On the 10th Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the Captain went in boats to inspect a large river that runs into the bay. They found it broader some miles within than at the mouth, and intersected into a number of streams, by several small islands, which were covered with trees. On the east side of the river the gentlemen shot some shags, which proved very good eating. The shore abounded with fish of various kinds, such as cockles, clams and oysters; and here were also ducks, shags, seapies and curlieus, with other wild fowl in great plenty. At the mouth of the river there was good anchorage in five fathom water. The gentlemen were 343received with great hospitality by the inhabitants of a little village, on the east side of the river. There are the remains of a fort called Eppah, in a peninsula that projects into the river, and it was well calculated for defending a small number against a greater force. From the remains, it nevertheless seemed to have been taken and partly destroyed.

The Indians sup before sun-set, when they eat fish and birds baked or roasted; they roast them upon a stick, stuck in the ground near the fire, and bake them in the manner the dog was baked, which the gentlemen ate at King George’s Island.

A female mourner was present at one of their suppers; she was seated upon the ground, and wept incessantly, at the same, time repeating some sentences in a doleful manner, but which Tupia could not explain; at the termination of each period she cut herself with a shell upon her breast, her hands or her face; notwithstanding this shocking, bloody spectacle greatly affected the gentlemen present, yet all the Indians who sat by her, except one, were quite unmoved. The gentlemen saw some, who from the depth of their scars must, upon these occasions, have wounded themselves still more violently.

November 11, great plenty of oysters were procured from a bed which had been discovered, and they proved exceedingly good. Next day the ship was visited by two canoes, with 344unknown Indians; after some invitation they came on board, and they all trafficked without any fraud.

Two fortified villages being descried, the Captain, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went to examine them: the smallest was romantically situated upon a rock, which was arched; this village did not consist of above five or six houses, fenced round. There was but one path, which was very narrow, that conducted to it. The gentlemen were invited by the inhabitants to pay them a visit, but not having time to spare, they took another route, after making presents to the females. A body of men, women and children now approached the gentlemen, who proved to be the inhabitants of another town, which they proposed visiting. They gave many testimonials of their friendly dispositions, among others they uttered the word Heromai, which, according to Tupia’s interpretation, implied Peace, and appeared much satisfied, when informed the gentlemen intended visiting their habitations. Their town was named Wharretouwa; it is seated on a point of land over the sea, on the north side of the bay; it was paled round, and defended by a double ditch. Within the ditch a stage is erected for defending the place in case of an attack; near this stage, which they call Porava, quantities of darts and stones are deposited to be in readiness to repel the assailants. There is another stage 345to command the path that leads to the town, and there are also some outworks. Upon the whole, the place seemed calculated to hold out a considerable time against an enemy armed with no other weapons than those of the inhabitants. It appeared however deficient in water for a siege. They eat instead of bread fern root, which was herein great plenty, with dried fish.

Very little land is here cultivated, sweet potatoes and yams being the only vegetables they found. There are two rocks near the foot of this fortification, both separated from the main land; they are very small, nevertheless they are not without dwelling-houses and little fortifications. They throw stones in their engagements with their hands, being destitute of a sling, and those and lances are their only missile weapons; they have, besides the Pattoo Pattoo, already described, a staff about five feet in length, and another shorter.

They sailed from this bay, after taking possession of it in the name of the King of Great Britain, on the 15th of November; Tojava, who visited them in his canoe just before their departure, said he should, as soon as the English were gone, prepare to retire to his fort, as the relations of Otirreeoonooe had menaced to take his life, as a forfeit for that of the deceased, Tojava being judged partial in this affair to the English. A number of islands of different sizes appeared towards the north-west, 346which were named Mercury Islands. Mercury bay lies in latitude 36 deg. 47 min. south; longitude 184 deg. 4 min. west, and has a small entrance at its mouth. On account of the number of oysters found in the river, the Captain gave it the name of Oyster river. Mangrove river (which the Captain so called from the great number of those trees that grew near it) is the most secure place for shipping, being at the head of the bay. The north-west side of this bay and river is much more fertile than the east side. The inhabitants, though numerous, have no plantations; their canoes are very indifferently constructed, and are no way ornamented; they lie under continual apprehensions of Teratu, being considered by him as rebels.

Upon this shore iron sand is in plenty to be found, which proves that there are mines of that metal up the country, it being brought down by a rivulet from thence.

On the 18th, in the morning, the Endeavour steered between the main, and an island which seemed very fertile, and as extensive as Uli Etea. Many canoes filled with Indians came along-side, and the Indians sung their war song, but the Endeavour’s people paying them no attention, they threw a volley of stones, and then paddled away; but they presently returned and renewed their insults. Tupia spoke to them, making use of his old argument, that inevitable 347destruction would ensue if they persisted; they answered with brandishing their weapons, intimating, at the same time, that if the English dared to come on shore they would destroy them all. Tupia still persisted in expostulating with them, but to no purpose; and they soon gave another volley of stones; but upon a musket being fired at one of their boats, they made a precipitate retreat.

In the evening they cast anchor in 23 fathom, and early the next morning they sailed up an inlet. Soon after two canoes came off, and some of the Indians came on board; they claimed an acquaintance with Tojava, and knew Tupia’s name; and after they had received some presents they retired peaceably.

The Endeavour was now in the bay, called by the natives Ooahaouragee, and Captain Cook, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, &c. went in the boats to the bottom of the bay to examine it, and they did not return till next morning. They had been up a fresh water river, at the bottom of the bay, in three fathoms water, which would make a good harbour. They met with an Indian town, and a hippah, or place of refuge, the inhabitants of which invited them to land, and gave them a friendly reception. At the entrance of a wood they met with a tree ninety-eight feet high from the ground to the first branch, quite strait, and nineteen feet in circumference and they found still larger 348trees of the same kind as they advanced into the wood. The Captain called this river Thames, being not unlike our river of that name. They also found several young cabbage trees, and a new species of the palm-nut, or Pardanus.

Captain Cook weighed anchor the same afternoon, sailing down the river with the tide, the wind blowing fresh from north-north-west; the next morning the flood obliged him to cast anchor again; and the Captain, with Dr. Solander, went on shore to the west, but made no observations worth relating. The ship, at their departure from it, was surrounded with canoes, which induced Mr. Banks to remain on board, that he might trade with the Indians. The chief object of these people was paper, for which they exchanged their arms and cloaths, and took no unfair advantages. Though the traders were honest in their dealings, there was one amongst them, who took a fancy to a half-minute glass, but was detected in secreting it, and he was punished with the cato’nine tails. The other Indians endeavoured to save him from this punishment; but being opposed, they got their arms from the canoes, and some of the people in them attempted to get on board. Mr. Banks and Tupia now coming upon deck, the Indians applied to Tupia but he having no influence upon Mr. Hicks, the commanding officer, informed them of the nature of the offender’s 349intended punishment, which pacified them, as they imagined he was going to be put to death. The criminal not only received twelve lashes, but afterwards a drubbing from an old man, who was thought to be his father. The canoes immediately went off, the Indians saying, they should be afraid to return again on board. Tupia, however, had so much influence over them as to bring them back; but they seemed to have lost that confidence, which they had before reposed in the English.

On the 23d the wind being still against them, they were obliged to tide it down the river, anchoring between tides; they passed a point of land, which the Captain called Point Rodney, and which is the north-west extremity of the river. As they could not approach the land, on account of the wind, they had but a distant view of the main for a course of near thirty miles. Captain Cook comprehended, under the name of the River Thames, the whole bay; and the promontory at the north-east extremity, he called Cape Colville, in honour of the peer of that name. This cape is in latitude 36 deg. 26 min. longitude 194 deg. 27 min. it is distinguishable at a considerable distance by a very high rock. The river runs south by east from the south point of this cape; it is, in the narrowest parts, at least three leagues over for near fourteen leagues, when it becomes narrower. It was thought to contain fish in abundance, as 350there appeared many implements necessary for fishing; the water was in some places twenty-six fathoms deep, and gradually diminished. There are several small islands within cape Colville, which appear to form tolerable harbours. There are also islands towards the western shore. The anchorage is good in all parts of the bay, which is defended from the sea by a number of small islands, which Captain Cook named Barrier Islands.

The circumjacent country, which is pretty extensive, appeared to be but thinly inhabited; the natives are a stout and active people, and are painted red all over: their canoes were ornamented with carving, and were constructed upon a good model.

On the 24th, they still continued steering along the shore, between the islands and the main, and in the evening anchored in an open bay, in about fourteen fathoms water. Here they caught a large number of fish of the scienne, or bream kind; from which the Captain named this Bream Bay, and the extreme points of it Bream Head. There are numbers of rocks off this bay, which were called the Hen and Chickens; it is situated in latitude 35 deg. 46 min. seventeen leagues north-west of cape Colville. There is an extent of land of about thirty miles between Point Rodney and Bream Head; it is woody and low. No inhabitants were visible, but from the fires perceived at 351night, the gentlemen concluded it was inhabited.

On the 25th, early in the morning, the Endeavour sailed out of the bay, keeping to the northward near the shore. Some islands were soon after discovered, about ten miles to the north-north-east, which they called the Poor Knights; upon these islands there were some houses, and a few towns that appeared fortified, and the land round them seemed cultivated. Towards night several canoes, with a number of Indians, came up to the ship, and some came on board. Two of the Chiefs received presents, and told the gentlemen, that they had had an account of the arrival of the English in those parts. After their departure other Indians came up to trade, and soon began their usual fraudulent practices; the gentlemen had recourse to the old remedy of firing some small shot, and a round shot, which soon put them to flight.

Sunday the 26th, Captain Cook continued his course slowly along the shore to the north. This day two canoes came up, and some of the Indians came on board, when they trafficked very fairly. Two larger canoes soon after followed them, and coming up to the ship, the people in them hailed the others, when they conferred together, and afterwards came along-side of the ship. The last two canoes were finely ornamented with carving, and the people, who appeared to be of higher rank, 352were armed with various weapons; they held in high estimation their Patoo Patoos, which were made of stone and whalebone, and they had ribs of whale, with ornaments of dog’s hair, which were very curious. These people were of a darker complexion than those to the southward, and their faces were stained blacker, with what they call Amoco; and their thighs were striped with it, very small interstices of the flesh being left visible. Though they all used the black Amoco, they applied it to different parts, and in various forms. Most of them had the figure of volutes on their lips, and one woman in particular was curiously marked upon various parts of her body. These Indians seemed the superiors of the others, they were nevertheless not free from the vice of pilfering, for one of them having agreed to barter a weapon for a piece of cloth, he was no sooner in possession of the cloth, than he paddled away without paying the price of it; but a musquet being fired, he came back and returned the cloth. All the canoes then returned ashore.

The Endeavour passed a remarkable point of land, which the Captain called Cape Bret, in honour of the baronet of that name: this cape is much higher than any of the adjacent land. Within a mile to the north-east by north is a curious rocky island; it is arched, and has a pleasing effect at a distance. The natives call this Cape Motugogogo: it lies in latitude 35 deg. 35310 min. 30 sec. south; and longitude 185 deg. 23 min. west. It forms a bay to the west, which contains many small islands, and Captain Cook named the point at the north-west entrance Point Pococke. There are many villages on the main as well as on the islands, which appeared well inhabited, and several canoes, filled with Indians, made to the ship, and after coming along-side to trade, shewed the same itch for cheating as the others. One of the midshipmen was so nettled at being imposed upon, that he had recourse to a whimsical expedient by way of revenge; taking a fishing line, he threw the lead with so much dexterity, that the hook caught the Indian who had imposed upon him by the buttocks, when the line breaking, the hook remained in his posteriors. These Indians were strong and well proportioned; their hair was black, and tied up in a bunch stuck with feathers: the Chiefs among them had garments made of fine cloth, ornamented with dog’s skin; and they were tataowed like those who had last appeared.

On the 27th the Endeavour was among a number of small islands, from which several canoes came off; but the Indians, from their frantic gestures, seemed disordered in their minds; they threw their fish into the ship by handfuls, without demanding any thing by way of barter. Some other canoes also came up, who saluted the ship with stones. One of the Indians, who 354was particularly active, threw a stick at one of the Endeavour’s men. It was then judged time to bring them to reason, and a musquet, with small shot was fired at him, when he fell down in the canoe. A general terror was now spread amongst them, and they all made a very precipitate retreat. Among the fish obtained from these canoes, were Cavalles in great plenty, and for this reason the Captain called these islands by the same name.

For several days the wind was so very unfavourable, that the vessel rather lost than gained ground; on the 29th, having weathered Cape Bret, they bore away to leeward, and got into a large bay, where they anchored on the south-west side of several islands, and suddenly came into four fathom and a half water. Upon sounding, they found they had got upon a bank, and accordingly weighed and dropped over it, and anchored again in ten fathoms and a half; after which the ship was surrounded by thirty-three large canoes, containing near three hundred Indians all armed. Some of them were admitted on board, and Captain Cook gave a piece of broad cloath to one of the Chiefs, and some small presents to the others. They traded peaceably for some time, being terrified at the fire arms, the effect of which they were not unacquainted with; but whilst the Captain was at dinner, on a signal given by one of their Chiefs, all the Indians quitted the ship, and they 355attempted to tow away the buoy; a musquet was now fired over them, but it produced no effect; small shot was then fired at them, but it did not reach them. A musquet, loaded with ball, was therefore ordered to be fired, and Otegoowgoow (son of one of the Chiefs) was wounded in the thigh by it, which induced them immediately to throw the buoy overboard. To complete their confusion a round shot was fired, which reached the shore, and as soon as they landed they ran in search of it. If these Indians had been under any kind of military discipline, they might have proved a much more formidable enemy; but acting thus, without any plan or regulation, they only exposed themselves to the annoyance of fire arms, whilst they could not possibly succeed in any of their designs.

The Captain, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander landed upon the island, and the Indians in the canoes soon after came on shore. The gentlemen were now in a small cove, and they were presently surrounded by near four hundred armed Indians; but the Captain not suspecting any hostile design on the part of the natives, remained peaceably disposed. The gentlemen marching towards them, drew a line, intimating that they were not to pass it; they did not infringe upon this boundary for some time, but at length they sung the song of defiance, and began to dance, whilst a party attempted to 356draw the Endeavour’s boats on shore; these signals for an attack being immediately followed by the Indians breaking in upon the line, the gentlemen judged it time to defend themselves, and accordingly the Captain fired his musquet, loaded with small shot, which was seconded by Mr. Banks discharging his piece, and two of the men followed his example. This threw the Indians into confusion, and they retreated; but were rallied again by one of their Chiefs, who shouted and waved his patoo patoo. The Doctor now pointed his musquet at this hero, and hit him; this stopt his career, and he took to flight with the other Indians. They retired to an eminence in a collective body, and seemed dubious whether they should return to the charge. They were now at too great a distance for ball to reach them; but these operations being observed from the ship, she brought her broad side to bear, and by firing over them soon dispersed them. The Indians had in this skirmish two of their people wounded, but none killed. Peace being thus restored, the gentlemen began to gather celery and other herbs; but suspecting some of the natives were lurking about with evil designs, they repaired to a cave, which was at a small distance; here they found the Chief, who had that day received a present from the Captain; he came forth with his wife and brother, and solicited their clemency. It appeared, that 357one of the wounded Indians was a brother of this Chief, who was under great anxiety lest the wound should prove mortal; but his grief was in a great degree alleviated, when he was made acquainted with the different effects of small shot and ball; he was at the same time assured, that upon any future hostilities being committed ball would be used. This interview terminated very cordially, after some trifling presents were made to the Chief and his companions.

The prudence of the gentlemen upon this occasion, cannot be much commended. Had these four hundred Indians boldly rushed in upon them at once with their weapons, the musquetry could have done very little execution; but supposing twenty or thirty of the Indians had been wounded, for it does not appear their pieces were loaded with ball, but only small shot, there would have remained a sufficient number to have massacred them, as it appears they do not give any quarter, and none could have been expected upon this occasion. It is true, when the ship brought her broad-side to bear, she might have made great havock amongst the Indians; but this would have been too late to save the party on shore.

Being again in their boats, they rowed to another part of the same island, when landing and gaining an eminence, they had a very agreeable and romantic view of a great number of 358islands, well inhabited and cultivated. The inhabitants of an adjacent town approached unarmed, and testified great humility and submission. Some of the party on shore, who had been very violent for having the Indians punished for their fraudulent conduct, were now guilty of trespasses equally reprehensible, having forced into some of the plantations, and dug up potatoes. The Captain upon this occasion shewed strict justice in punishing each of the offenders with twelve lashes: one of them being very refractory upon the occasion, and complaining of the hardship, thinking an Englishman had a right to plunder an Indian with impunity, was flogged out of this opinion with six additional lashes. Probably his adding “that in this, he had only followed the example of his superiors,” might have had no little weight in procuring him this last sentence.

It being a dead calm on the 30th, two boats were sent to sound the harbour, and many canoes came up, and traded with great probity: the gentlemen went again on shore, and met with a very civil reception from the natives; and this friendly intercourse continued all the time they remained in the bay, which was several days. Being upon a visit to the old Chief, he shewed them the instruments used in tataowing, which were very like those at Otaheite employed upon the like occasion. They saw the man who had been wounded by the ball, when 359the attempt was made to carry off the ship’s buoy; and though it had gone through the fleshy part of his arm, it did not seem to give him the least pain or uneasiness.

On Tuesday the 5th, in the morning, they weighed anchor, but were soon becalmed, and a strong current setting towards the shore, they were driven in with such rapidity, that they expected every moment to run upon the breakers, which appeared above water not more than a cable’s length distance; they were so near the land, that Tupia, who was totally ignorant of the danger, held a conversation with the Indians, who were standing on the beach. They were happily relieved, however, from this alarming situation by a fresh breeze, suddenly springing up from the shore.

The bay which they had left was called the Bay of Islands, on account of the numerous islands it contains; they catched but few fish while they lay there, but procured great plenty from the natives, who are extremely expert at fishing, and display great ingenuity in the form of their nets, which are made of a kind of grass; they are two or three hundred fathoms in length, and remarkably strong; and they have them in such plenty, that it is scarce possible to go a hundred yards upon the beach, without meeting with numbers lying in heaps. These people did not appear to be under the government of any particular Chief or Sovereign, and they 360seemed to live in a perfect state of friendship, notwithstanding their villages were fortified. According to their observations upon the tides, the flood comes from the south, and there is a current from the west.

Dec. 7, several canoes put off and followed the Endeavour, but a breeze arising, Captain Cook did not wait for them: on the 8th they tacked, and stood in for the shore: and on the 9th, they were about seven leagues to the westward of the Cavalles, and soon after came to a deep bay, which the Captain named Doubtless Bay. The wind prevented their putting in here, and being soon after becalmed, they were visited by several canoes from shore, with whom they trafficked. From these Indians they learnt, they were about two days sail from Moore Whennua, where the land changed its shape, and instead of extending to the westward, turned to the south; and that to the north-north-west there was an extensive country, named Ulimaroah, where the inhabitants lived upon hogs, which they called Booah, and was the same name given them by the inhabitants of the islands in the South Seas. They saw upon the coast several plantations, of the Eaowte, or cloth trees, and some of the Koomarra. They beat to windward four days, and made but little way. On the 10th, the land appeared low and barren, but was not destitute of inhabitants; the next morning, they stood in with the land, 361which forms a peninsula, and which the Captain named Knuckle Point. Another bay, that lies contiguous, Captain Cook called Sandy Bay, in the middle of it is a high mountain, which was named Mount Camel, on account of its resembling that animal. Several canoes put off, but could not reach the ship, which now tacked and stood to the northward, till the afternoon of the 12th, when she stood to the north-east. Towards night it began to rain and blow, and in the morning it was so tempestuous, as to split the main-top-sail, and the fore mizen-top-sails. Early in the morning of the 14th, they saw land to the southward; and on the 15th, they tacked and stood to the westward; next day they discovered land from the mast-head to the south-south-west; and on the 16th came off the northern extremity of New Zealand, which the Captain called North Cape. It lies in latitude 34 deg. 22 min. south, longitude 186 deg. 55 min. west, and forms the north point of Sandy Bay. Their situation varied but little till the 24th, when they discovered land, which they judged to be the islands of the Three Kings, though they did not resemble the description of them in Dalrymple’s account. The chief island is in latitude 34 deg. 12 min. south, longitude 187 deg. 48 min west, between fourteen or fifteen leagues from North Cape. Mr. Banks went out in the small boat, and caught some birds that greatly resembled 362geese, and they were very good eating. On the 27th, it blew very hard from the east all day, accompanied with heavy showers of rain, and they brought the ship under a reef main-sail. On the 30th they saw land, bearing north-east, which was thought to be Cape Maria Van Diemen, but the sea being very boisterous, they did not venture to approach it, but tacked about and stood to the north-west.

January 1, 1770, they tacked and stood to the eastward; and on the 3d they saw land again; it was high and flat, and tended away to the south-east, beyond the reach of the naked eye. It is remarkable, that the Endeavour was three weeks in making ten leagues to the westward, and that she met with a violent gale of wind in latitude 35 deg. south, at Midsummer. On the morning of the 4th they stood along the shore, the coast appearing sandy and barren, dreary and inhospitable; steering northward on the 6th they saw land again, which they imagined to be Cape Maria: on the 7th, they had light breezes, and were sometimes becalmed, when they saw a sun-fish, short and thick in figure, with two large fins, but scarce any tail, resembling a shark in colour and size. They continued steering east till the 9th, when they perceived land, and were soon after a-breast of a point, which Captain Cook named Woody-head. From the south-west there is a small island, which the Captain called Gannet Island. 363Another point remarkably high to the east-north-east, the Captain named Albetross Point, on the north side of which a bay is formed that promises good anchorage. At about two leagues distance from Albetross Point to the north-east, they discovered a remarkable high mountain, equal in height to that, of Teneriffe, the summit of which was covered with snow, and it was named Mount Egmont. It is in latitude 39 deg. 16 min. longitude 185 deg. 15 min. west, and the country round it is pleasant, presenting an agreeable verdure, intersected with woods: the coast forms an extensive cape, which the Captain likewise called cape Egmont, in honour of the nobleman of that name. It is about twenty-seven leagues to the south-south-west of Albetross Point, having two small islands to the north, near a very high point of a conic figure. This day some very heavy showers of rain fell, accompanied with thunder and lightening. The Captain proposed careening the ship here, and taking in wood and water; and accordingly, on the 15th, steered for an inlet; when it being almost a calm, the ship was carried by the current very near the shore, but got clear with the assistance of the boats. Whilst this was doing a sea lion made its appearance; it is a very curious creature, and answers the description given of it in Lord Anson’s Voyage. The Captain sent the pinnace to examine a small cove that appeared, but soon after recalled her, on 364seeing the natives launch and arm their canoes. The Endeavour anchored in a commodious part of the bay, in sailing towards which spot an Indian town was descried, when the inhabitants waved their hands, seemingly to invite the Endeavour’s people to land. In passing the point of the bay, they observed an armed centinel on duty, who was twice relieved. Four canoes came from shore to visit the ship, but none of the Indians would venture on board, except an old man, who seemed of elevated rank: his countrymen took great pains to prevent his coming on board, but they could not divert him from his purpose, and he was received with the utmost civility and hospitality. Tupia and the old man joined noses, according to the custom of the country, and after receiving several presents, he returned to his associates, when they began to dance and laugh, and soon after retired. The Captain and the other gentlemen now went on shore, where they met with plenty of wood and water, and were very successful in fishing, catching some hundred weight in a short time.

On the 16th the Endeavour’s people were engaged in careening her, when three canoes came off with a great number of Indians, and brought several of their women with them. This circumstance was judged a favourable presage of their peaceable disposition, but they soon gave proofs of the contrary, by attempting 365to stop the long-boat that was sent on shore for water, when Captain Cook had recourse to the old expedient of firing some shot, which intimidated them for the present; but they soon gave fresh proofs of their insidious designs. One of them snatched some paper from the Endeavour’s people who were trading with them, and brandishing his patoo patoo, put himself in a threatening posture; upon which it was judged expedient to fire some small shot at him, which wounded him in the knee; this step put an end to the correspondence with regard to trade; but Tupia still continued conversing with them, and making many inquiries concerning the curiosities of New Zealand; he also asked them, if they had ever before seen a ship of the magnitude of the Endeavour; to which they replied, they had never seen such a vessel, nor ever heard that one had been upon the coast, though Tasman certainly touched here, which was only fifteen miles south of Murderer’s bay. There is great plenty of fish in all the coves of this bay; among others here are cuttle fish, large breams, small grey breams, small and large baracootas, flying gurnards, horse mackrel, dog fish, soles, dabs, mullets, drums, scorpenas, or rock fish, cole fish, shags, chimeras, &c. The inhabitants catch their fish as follows; their net is cylindrical, extended by several hoops at the bottom, and contracted at the top; the fish going in to feed upon what 366is put in the net, are caught in great abundance; there are also birds of various kinds, and in great numbers, particularly parrots, wood pigeons, water hens, hawks, and many different singing birds. An herb, a species of Philadelphus, was used here instead of tea; and a plant, called Teegoomme, resembling rug cloaks, served the natives for garments. The environs of the cove where the Endeavour lay is covered entirely with wood, and the supple jacks are so numerous, that it is with difficulty passengers can pursue their way; here is a numerous sand-fly that is very disagreeable. The tops of many of the hills are covered with fern. The air of the country is very moist, and has some qualities that promote putrefaction, as birds that had been shot but a few hours were found with maggots in them. The women who accompanied the men in the canoes wore a head-dress, which the gentlemen had no where met with before. It was composed of black feathers, tied in a bunch on the top of the head, which greatly increased its height. The manner of their disposing of their dead is very different to what is practised in the South-sea islands, they tie a large stone to the body, and throw it into the sea: the gentlemen saw the body of a woman which had been disposed of this way, but which by some accident had disengaged itself from the stone, floating upon the water. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and the 367Doctor visited another cove, about two miles from the ship. There was a family of Indians who were greatly alarmed at the approach of the gentlemen, all running away except one; but upon Tupia’s conversing with him the others returned. They found, by the provisions of this family, that they were cannibals, here being several human bones that had been lately dressed and picked; and it appeared, that a short time before, six of their enemies having fallen into their hands, they had killed four and eaten them, and that the other two were drowned in endeavouring to make their escape. They made no secret of this abominable custom, but answered Tupia, who was desired to ascertain the fact, with great composure, that his conjectures were just, that they were the bones of a man, and testified by signs, that they thought human flesh delicious food. Upon being asked, why they had not eaten the body of the woman that had been seen floating upon the water? They replied, she had died of a disorder, and that moreover she was related to them, and they never ate any but their enemies. Upon Mr. Banks’s still testifying some doubts concerning the fact, one of the Indians drew the bone of a man’s arm through his mouth, and this gentleman had the curiosity to bring it away with him. There was a woman in this family whose arms and legs were cut in a shocking 368manner, and it appeared she had thus wounded herself, because her husband had lately been killed and eaten by the enemy.

Some of the Indians brought four skulls one day to sell, which they rated at a very high price. The brains had been taken out, and probably eaten, but the scalp and hair remained. They seemed to have been dried by fire, in order to preserve them from putrefaction. The gentlemen likewise saw the bail of a canoe, which was made of a human skull. In a word, their ideas were so horrid and brutal, that they seemed to pride themselves upon their cruelty and barbarity, and took a peculiar pleasure in shewing the manner in which they killed their enemies, it being considered as very meritorious to be expert at this destruction. The method used was to knock them down with their patoo patoos, and then rip up their bellies.

An amazing number of birds usually began their melody about two o’clock in the morning, and serenaded the gentlemen till the time of their rising. This harmony was very agreeable, as the ship lay at a convenient distance from the shore, to hear it. These feathered choiristers, like the English nightingales, never sing in the day time.

On the 17th, the ship was visited by a canoe from the hippah, or village; it contained, among others, the aged Indian, of superior 369distinction, who had first visited the English upon their arrival. In a conference which Tupia had with him, he testified his apprehensions, that their enemies would very soon visit them, and repay the compliment, for killing and eating the four men.

On the 18th they received no visit from the Indians, but going out in the pinnace to inspect the bay, they saw a single man in a canoe, fishing in the manner already described. It was remarkable, that this man did not pay the least attention to the people in the pinnace, but continued to pursue his employment even when they came along-side of him, without once looking at them. Some of the Endeavour’s people being on shore found three human hip bones, close to an oven: these were brought on board, as well as the hair of a man’s head, which was found in a tree. The next day a forge was set up to repair the iron work, and some Indians visited the ship with plenty of fish, which they bartered very fairly for nails.

On the 20th, Mr. Banks purchased of the old Indian a man’s head, which he seemed very unwilling to part with; the skull had been fractured by a blow, and the brains were extracted, and like the others it was preserved from putrefaction. From the care with which they kept these skulls, and the reluctance with which they bartered any, it was imagined they were considered 370as trophies of war, and testimonials of their valour. In this day’s excursion they did not meet with a single native; the ground on every side was quite uncultivated; but they discovered a very good harbour. The succeeding day the ship’s company were allowed to go on shore for their amusement, and the gentlemen employed themselves in fishing, in which they were very successful. Some of the company in their excursion met with fortifications that had not the advantage of an elevated situation, but were surrounded by two or three wide ditches, with a draw-bridge, which, tho’ simple in its structure, is capable of answering every purpose against the arms of the natives. Within these ditches is a fence, made with stakes, fixed in the earth. A decisive conquest or victory over the besieged occasions an entire depopulation of that district, as the vanquished, not only those who are killed, but the prisoners likewise are devoured by the victors. From what has been related by such unquestionable authority, there can remain no doubt with the unprejudiced reader, that the inhabitants of this part of the globe are cannibals. There are, indeed, some closet travellers, who treat every thing as visionary, that they have not been eye-witnesses of, and therefore disbelieve all they read, related by real travellers, that does not square with their own notions and ideas; but as it may 371be impossible to convince these sceptical readers, we shall leave them to amuse themselves with their doubts and objections.

View of an Arched Rock on the Coast of New Zealand, with a place of Retreat on the Top of it.

The 22d was employed by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander in collecting of plants, whilst Captain Cook made some observations on the main land on the south-east side of the inlet, which consisted of a chain of high hills, and formed part of the south-west side of the streight; the opposite side extended far to the east. He also discovered a village, and many houses that had been deserted, and another village that appeared to be inhabited. There were many small islands round the coast that seemed entirely barren, and what few inhabitants were upon them then lived principally upon fish. On the 24th they visited a hippah, which was situated on a very high rock, hollow underneath, forming a fine natural arch, one side of which joined to the land, and the other rose out of the sea. The inhabitants received the gentlemen with great civility, and very readily shewed them every thing that was curious. This hippah was partly surrounded with a pallisade, and it had a fighting stage like that already described. Here they met with a cross resembling a crucifix, which was ornamented with feathers, and which was erected as a monument for a deceased person; but they could not learn how his body was disposed of. From a conversation that Tupia had with these 372people, a discovery was made, that an officer being in a boat near this village, and some canoes coming off made him imagine they had hostile designs, and he fired upon them with ball, which made them retire with much precipitation, but they could not effect their retreat before one of them was wounded. What made this rash action the more to be lamented was, that the Indians afterwards gave every possible assurance that their intentions, upon this occasion, were entirely friendly.

On the 25th the Captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander went on shore to shoot, when they met with a numerous family, who were among the creeks catching fish: they behaved very civilly, and received some trifling presents from the gentlemen. The next day they went to take a view of the streight, that passes between the eastern and western seas: they accordingly attained the summit of a hill, but it being cloudy weather, they could not see at any considerable distance. Here, however, they erected a pile, leaving in it musket balls, small shot, beads, &c. as a testimonial of this place having been visited by Europeans. Upon their return they met with another Indian family, who behaved to them very respectfully, and assisted in procuring them water. They also visited another hippah upon a rock that was almost inaccessible; it consisted of about ninety 373houses, and had a fighting stage. The gentlemen made the inhabitants some small presents, and they in return furnished them with dried fish.

The ship’s company were, on the 27th and 28th, engaged in making necessary repairs, and getting her ready for sea. The next day they were visited by Topoa, their old friend, and some other Indians. They said, that the man who had received a wound from the officer, near the hippah, was dead; but this assertion proved afterwards groundless. The Doctor and Mr. Banks often went on shore whilst the ship was preparing for sea, and made several observations upon the coast to the north-west: they perceived an island, at about ten leagues distance, between which and the main there were several smaller islands. The Captain also went on shore, and erected another pyramid of stones, in which he put some bullets, beads, &c. as before, with the addition of a piece of silver coin, and placed part of an old pendant on the top, to distinguish it. Some of the people who had been sent out to gather celery, met with several of the natives, among whom were some women, whose husbands had lately fallen into the hands of the enemy, and they were cutting many parts of their body in the most shocking manner with sharp stones, in testimony of their excessive grief. What made this ceremony appear ridiculous as well as shocking, was, that 374the male Indians, who were with them, paid not the least attention to it, but with the greatest unconcern imaginable, employed themselves in repairing some empty huts upon the spot.

On Tuesday the 30th, two posts were erected, inscribed with the ship’s name, &c. as usual; one was placed at the watering-place, with the Union flag upon it, and the other in the same manner, on the island of Motuara; and the inhabitants being informed, that these posts were meant as memorials of the Endeavour having touched at this place, promised never to destroy them. The Captain then named this inlet Queen Charlotte’s Sound; and took possession of it in the name, and for the use of his Majesty, and a bottle of wine was drank to the Queen’s health.

The Captain made the old man some presents; among others there were a silver three-pence and some spike nails, with the broad arrow upon them. Topoa being questioned concerning a passage into the eastern sea, answered, that there certainly was such a passage; and he also informed the Captain, that the land to the south-west of the streight, where he then was, consisted of two islands, named Tovy Poennammoo, and that it would take about two days to sail round them; he added, that there was a third island to the east, called Eaheinomauwe, which was of considerable extent; and that the land contiguous to this inlet was called Tiera Witte.

375Towards night, on the 31st, a brisk gale arose, attended with heavy showers, and the next morning the weather became so very tempestuous, that the Endeavour had her hawser broke, and several casks of water that had been left on shore were washed away with the rain.

The 2d, 3d and 4th of February, were chiefly spent in preparing for their departure, and purchasing fish of the natives, who confirmed the accounts that Topoa had given, respecting an eastern passage and the adjacent islands. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were in the mean while chiefly engaged in collecting seeds and shells of different kinds. They got under sail the 5th, but the wind not continuing, they came again to an anchor. Topoa visited the gentlemen again to bid them farewel; and being questioned, whether he had ever heard that such a vessel as the Endeavour had touched there, he answered in the negative; but added, there was a tradition of a small vessel coming from a place called Ulimaroa (a distant country to the north) that there were only four men in her, and that they were all put to death.

Mr. Banks and the Doctor went again on shore, in search of natural curiosities, when they met with a very amiable Indian family, among whom was a widow, and a pretty youth about ten years of age. She had just lost her husband, and was performing the ceremony of the country upon the occasion. They behaved 376with the utmost hospitality and courtesy, and endeavoured to prevail with the gentlemen to stay all night, but they expecting the ship to sail, could not accept of the invitation. This family seemed the most enlightened and intelligent set of Indians the gentlemen had as yet met with, which made them regret they had not fallen into their company before, as they would probably have derived much information from them.

On the 6th of February, in the morning, the Endeavour sailed out of the bay, which the ship’s company, from an abhorrence of the brutal custom that prevails here of eating men, called Cannibal Bay. They bent their course to an opening on the east; in the evening, being in the mouth of the streights, they were becalmed in latitude 41 deg. south, longitude 184 deg. 45 min. west. The two points which form this entrance, were named cape Koomaroo, and point Jackson. The natives call the land about it Totarranue; and the harbour, which the Captain named Ship Cove, is very safe and commodious. A ship may enter it either between Motuara and the island of Hamote, or between the western shore and Motuara. Care, however, must be taken to attend to the tides; when there is little wind they flow about nine or ten o’clock at the full and change of the moon, and rise and fall about seven feet and a half, passing through the streight from the south-east.

377The natives about this sound are not above four hundred in number; they are scattered along the coast, and live upon fern root and fish; the latter of which was the only commodity they traded in. They were not entirely ignorant of the use of iron, bartering their fish for nails, and often giving them the preference to any other trifles that were offered them; they soon rejected paper when they found it was not water proof; nor was the cloth of Otaheite held in much estimation by them; but the cloths of English manufacture they highly valued. The timber here is very good, and fit for almost all purposes, except masts; besides fish, which is in great plenty, here are shags, and some other kinds of wildfowl, in abundance.

The Endeavour having left the sound, steered eastward, and about six o’clock in the evening they were greatly alarmed at their being carried, by the rapidity of the current, very close to one of the two islands which lie off Cape Koamaroo, at the entrance of the sounds. The ship was in such imminent danger, that they expected every minute she would be dashed to pieces; but letting go an anchor, and veering one hundred and sixty fathoms of cable, she was brought up, when they were not above two cables length from the rocks: in this situation they were obliged to wait for the ebb of the tide, which was not till after midnight; at three o’clock in the morning 378they weighed anchor, and a fine breeze springing up soon after, they were carried through the streight with great velocity. At the entrance of the streight, on the north-side, there is a small island, which was named Entry Island. The narrowest part of this streight, which was called Cooke’s Streight, is between Cape Tierawitte and Cape Koamaroo; it is about thirteen miles long and fourteen broad; the safest passage is on the north-east shore, the other being rocky and dangerous. The two eastern points of the streight Captain Cook named Cape Palliser and Cape Campbell; the first is in latitude 41 deg. 44 min. south; longitude 183 deg. 45 min. west; and the latter in latitude 41 deg. 34 min. south-east, and longitude 183 deg. 58 min. west. The Endeavour was now about three leagues from land, facing a deep bay, which was called Cloudy Bay. Some of the gentlemen on board expressing a doubt that Eahienomauwe was not an island, the Endeavour steered south-east, in order to ascertain whether it was or not; upon the wind’s shifting, she stood eastward, and steered all night north-east by east. They were off Cape Palliser next morning (the 8th) when they discovered that the land reached away to the north-east towards Cape Turnagain. Three canoes came off in the afternoon, with several people in them; they made a good appearance, and their canoes were ornamented like those of the 379Indians of the northern coast. They came on board without the least hesitation, and behaved very civilly; a mutual exchange of presents took place, which was the first instance they met with of such courtesy among any of the Indians. By their asking for Whow, which signified nails, it was imagined they had heard of the Endeavour’s people from the inhabitants of some other place where she had touched. They resembled the natives of Tolaga Bay in their dress. One old man was tataowed in a very remarkable manner; he was likewise marked with a streak of red paint across the nose, and over both cheeks; his hair was quite white as well as his beard. His garment was made of flax, with a wrought border, under which was a kind of petticoat, made of a cloth called Aooree Waow; his ears were decorated with teeth and pieces of green stone. His voice was soft and low, and he appeared, upon the whole, to be a person of distinguished rank. These Indians retired greatly satisfied with the presents they had received; and the Endeavour, after parting from them, steered coastwise, till the 9th in the morning, which being a clear day, it was easily determined that Eahienomauwe was certainly an island.

On the 14th of February about sixty Indians, in four double canoes, came within a stone’s cast of the ship, which they beheld with surprise. Tupia endeavoured to persuade them 380to approach nearer, which they refused, and made towards the shore, but did not reach it till after it was dark. From the behaviour of these people, the place from whence they came was called the Island of Lookers-on. On the 17th of this month they saw an island, five leagues from the coast of Tovy Poenammoo, which was called after the name of Mr. Banks. This island appeared to be inhabited, as they saw a few Indians on it, and in one place beheld the smoke of a fire. As no farther signs of land appeared to the southward, they steered to the west on Sunday the 18th, and made various way till the 23d, when it fell calm. Mr. Banks took this opportunity to go a shooting in his boat; when he shot some Port Egmont hens, like those found on the island of Faro, and were the first they had seen on this coast. On Sunday the 25th they saw a point of land, in 45 deg. 35 min. south latitude, which Captain Cook named Cape Saunders, in honour of the Admiral of that name. They kept at a small distance from the shore, which is interspersed with hills that are green, and abound in trees; but they did not see a single inhabitant. They had various winds and seas till the 4th of March, when they saw several whales and seals.⁠—On the 9th they saw a ledge of rocks, and soon afterwards another ledge, three leagues from the shore, which they passed to the north during the night, and discovered the others under 381their bow at day-break. Thus they had a narrow escape from destruction; and these ledges of rocks were denominated the Traps, from their being adapted to entrap the unwary. The southermost point of this land they called South Cape, and indeed it proved to be the southern extremity of the whole country.

In the morning they sailed northward, and, on the day following, discovered a barren rock, about a mile in circumference, very high, and five leagues from the main land. This was called Solander’s Island. On the 13th they discovered a bay, which contains several islands, behind which, if there be depth of water, there must be shelter from all winds. Captain Cook called this Dusky-Bay, and it is remarkable for having five high, peaked rocks, lying off it, which look like the thumb and four fingers of a man’s hand; whence it was denominated Point Five Fingers. Three leagues to the south of Dusky Bay lies the westermost point of land on the whole coast, which was therefore called West-Cape.

On the 14th they passed a small narrow opening in the land, where there appeared to be a good harbour, formed by an island. On the land behind it were mountains covered with snow. On the 16th they passed a point, consisting of high red cliffs, which received the name of Cascade Point, from a cascade of water which fell down it in several small streams. 382On the 18th in the morning they observed the vallies as well as the mountains covered with snow, which they thought had fallen in the night, when they had rain at sea. On the 23d they gave the name of Rock’s Point to a head of land, off which lay some rocks above the water.

They had now almost passed the whole of the north-west coast of Tovy Poenammoo; the face of the country afforded nothing worth notice, but a ridge of rocks of a stupendous height, “which Dr. Hawkesworth describes as totally barren and naked, except where they are covered with snow, which is to be seen in large patches in many parts of them, and has probably lain there ever since the creation of the world; a prospect more rude, craggy, and desolate than this country affords from the sea, cannot possibly be conceived; for as far inland as the eye can reach, nothing appears but the summits of rocks, which stand so near together, that, instead of vallies, there is only fissures between them.”

By the 27th they had sailed round the whole country, and determined to depart from the coast, as soon as they had taken in a stock of water. For this purpose the Captain went ashore in the long-boat, and found an excellent watering-place, and a proper birth for the ship; which being moored, they began filling their 383casks; while the carpenter and his crew were employed in cutting wood. On the 30th the Captain, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went in the pinnace to examine the bay, and the land on its borders, on which the two last mentioned gentlemen found several plants, of a species they had not seen before. They saw no inhabitants; but found several Indian huts, which appeared to have been long deserted. When they returned on board in the evening, the ship was ready to sail, all the wood and water being on board. A council of the officers was now held, as to the passage they should take to England; when it was resolved to return by the East Indies, and with that view to steer for the east coast of New Holland, and then follow the direction of that coast to the northward.

This resolution being taken, they sailed at day-break, on Saturday March 31, 1770, and taking their departure from an eastern point, which they had seen on the 23d, they called it Cape Farewell. The bay from which they sailed was named Admiralty Bay, and the two Capes thereof Cape Stephens, and Cape Jackson, the names of the then Secretaries to the Board of Admiralty. Between the island and Cape Farewell is a bay, which they called Blind Bay, and which Captain Cook supposes, to be the same that is distinguished in Tasman’s Voyage, by the name of Murderers Bay.

384We shall now proceed to give such an account of the country and its inhabitants, as could be acquired during the circumnavigation of the coast. Abel Jansen Tasman, a Dutchman, was the first European that made a discovery of New Zealand, to which he gave the name of Staaten Land, that is, the land of the States General. Tasman never went on shore, as the Indians attacked him soon after he came to an anchor, in the bay to which he gave the name of Murderers Bay. From the time of Tasman’s discovery, which was in December 1642, till the present voyage, the whole country, except that part which Tasman saw, remained totally unknown, and has been supposed to be part of a southern continent; but it now proves to be two large islands, separated by a streight, of the breadth of about twelve miles.

The situation of these islands is between 34 and 48 degrees of south latitude, and 181 and 194 degrees of west longitude. The natives call the northern island Eaheinomauwe, and the southermost Tovy Paenammoo.

Eaheinomauwe, though hilly, and in some places mountainous, is well stored with wood, and there is a rivulet in every valley. The soil of the vallies is light, but is so fertile, as to be well adapted for the plentiful production of all sorts of the fruits, plants, and corn of Europe; the inhabitants of which, if a settlement 385should be effected, might supply themselves with the necessaries and even luxuries of life, without any extraordinary exertion of their industry. The summer is more equally warm, though not hotter than in England; and it is imagined, from the vegetables that were found, that the winter is not so severe.

Dogs and rats are the only quadrupedes that were seen, and of the latter only a very few. The inhabitants breed the dogs for the sole purpose of eating them. There are seals and whales on the coast; and they once saw a sea-lion. The birds are hawks, owls, quails; and there are song-birds, whose note is wonderfully melodious. There are ducks and shags of several sorts, not unlike those of Europe; and the gannet, which is exactly the same. The sea-coast is visited by albatrosses, sheerwaters, pintados and penguins, descriptions of which have been given in other voyages. The insects are flesh-flies, beetles, butterflies, sand-flies and musquitos.

Tovy Poenammoo appears to be a barren country, is very mountainous, and almost destitute of inhabitants.

The sea which washes these islands abounds with fish, which are equally delicate and wholesome food. They seldom came to anchor but they catched enough, with hook and line only, to supply the whole ship’s crew: and, when they fished with nets, every mess in the ship, 386except those who were too indolent, salted as much as supplied them when at sea for several weeks after. The fish was not less various in kind than plentiful in quantity: there were many sorts they had never before seen; but the sailors readily gave names to all of them. They had several sorts of mackrel, one of which was the same as we eat in England. These fish were catched by the natives in immense quantities, and sold to the crew on the most moderate terms: but the richest dainty these seas afforded was the sea cray-fish, which differ from those seen in England, by having more prickles on the back, and being red when first catched. These they purchased of the natives on the north coast, who dive for them, and find where they lie with their feet. They had several kinds of skate, and a kind of dog-fish, of a more delicate flavour, though otherwise similar to the skate eaten in London. Eels, congers, clams, oysters, cockles, and flat-fish, resembling both soles and flounders, were likewise found in great plenty on this coast.

This country abounds with forests, filled with very large, strait, and clean timber. There is one tree about the size of an oak, which was distinguished by a scarlet flower, that appeared to be composed of several fibres; and another which grows in swampy ground, very strait and tall, bearing small bunches of berries, and a leaf resembling that of the yew tree. About 387four hundred species of plants were found, all of which are unknown in England, except garden night-shade, sow-thistle, two or three kinds of fern, and one or two sorts of grass. They found wild celery, and a kind of cresses, in great abundance, on the sea shore; and of eatable plants raised by cultivation, only coccos, yams, and sweet potatoes. There are plantations of many acres of these yams and potatoes. The inhabitants likewise cultivate the gourd; and the Chinese paper mulberry-tree is to be found, but in no abundance. There is only one shrub or tree in this country which produces fruit, and that is a kind of berry almost tasteless: but they have a plant which answers all the uses of hemp and flax. There are two kinds of this plant, the leaves of one of which are yellow, and the other a deep red, and both of them resemble the leaves of flags. Of these leaves they make lines and cordage, and much stronger than any thing of the kind in Europe. These leaves they likewise split into breadths, and tying the slips together, form their fishing-nets. Their common apparel, by a simple process, is made from the leaves, and their finer, by another preparation, is made from the fibers. This plant is found both on high and low ground, in dry mould, and in deep bogs; but as it grows largest in the latter, that seems to be its proper soil.

388Our adventurers were of opinion, that no part of this country is peopled but the sea coast; so that the number of inhabitants is greatly disproportioned to the extent of country; and the settling a colony there, is recommended as an object worthy the notice of Great Britain.

The men of this country are as large as the largest Europeans. Their complexion is brown, but little more so than that of a Spaniard. They are full of flesh, but not lazy and luxurious; and are stout and well shaped. The women possess not that delicacy which distinguishes the European ladies; but their voice is singularly soft, which, as the dress of both sexes is similar, chiefly distinguishes them from the men. The men are active in a high degree; their hair is black, and their teeth are white and even. The features of both sexes are regular; they enjoy perfect health, and live to a very advanced age. They are of the gentlest dispositions, and treat each other with the utmost kindness: but they are perpetually at war, every little district being at enmity with all the rest. This is owing, most probably, to the want of food in sufficient quantities, at certain times. They have neither black cattle, sheep, hogs, nor goats; so that their chief food being fish, and that not at all times to be obtained, they are in danger of dying through hunger. They have a few, and but a very few dogs; and when no fish is to be got, they have only vegetables, such as yams 389and potatoes, to feed on; and if, by any accident, these fail them, their situation must be deplorable. This will account for their shocking custom of eating the bodies which are slain in battle; for he who fights through mere hunger, will not scruple to eat the adversary he has killed.

Notwithstanding this custom respecting their enemies, the circumstances and temper of these people are in favour of those who shall settle among them as a colony. They are in need of protection; and their dispositions are so sweet, that it would be an easy task to attach them by kindness. Civilization would be a blessing to people, whom nature has barely furnished with the necessaries of life.

The inhabitants of New Zealand are as modest and reserved in their behaviour and conversation as the most polite nations of Europe. The women, indeed, were not dead to the softer impressions; but their mode of consent was, in their idea, as harmless as the consent to marriage with us, and equally binding for the stipulated time. If any of the English addressed one of their women, he was informed, that the consent of her friends must be obtained, which usually followed, on his making a present. This done, he was obliged to treat his temporary wife at least as delicately as we do in England. A gentleman who sailed in the Endeavour having addressed a family of some 390rank, received an answer, of which the following is an exact translation.⁠—“Any of these young ladies will think themselves honoured by your addresses, but you must first make me a suitable present, and you must then come and sleep with us on shore, for daylight must by no means be a witness of what passes between you.”

These Indians anoint their hair with oil, melted from the fat of fish or birds. The poorer people use that which is rancid, so that they smell very disagreeable; but those of superior rank make use of that which is fresh. They wear combs, both of bone and wood, which is considered as an ornament when stuck upright in the hair. The men tie their hair in a bunch on the crown of the head, and adorn it with the feathers of birds, which they likewise sometimes place on each side of the temples. They commonly wear short beards. The hair of the women sometimes flows over the shoulders, and sometimes is cut short. Both sexes, but the men more than the women, mark their bodies with black stains, called Amoco. In general the women stain only the lips; but sometimes mark other parts with black patches: the men, on the contrary, put on additional marks from year to year, so that those who are very ancient are almost covered. Exclusive of the amoco, they mark themselves with furrows. These furrows make a hideous appearance, the 391edges being indented, and the whole quite black. The ornaments of the face are drawn in the spiral form, with equal elegance and correctness, both cheeks being marked exactly alike; while the paintings on their bodies resemble fillagree work, and the foliage in old chafed ornaments: but no two faces or bodies are painted exactly after the same model. The people of New Zealand frequently left the breech free from these marks; which the inhabitants of Otaheite adorned beyond any other. These Indians likewise paint their bodies, by rubbing them with red oker, either dry, or mixed with oil.

Their dress is formed of the leaves of the flag split into slips, which are interwoven, and made into a kind of matting, the ends, which are seven or eight inches in length, hanging out on the upper side. One piece of this matting being tied over the shoulders, reaches to the knees: the other piece being wrapped round the waist, falls almost to the ground. These two pieces are fastened to a string, which, by means of a bodkin of bone, is passed through, and tacks them together. The men wear the lower garment only at particular times.

They have two kinds of cloth besides the coarse matting or shag abovementioned; one of which is as coarse, but beyond all proportion stronger than English canvass; the other, which is formed of the fibres of a plant, drawn into 392threads which cross and bind each other, resembles the matting on which we place our dishes at table. They make borders of different colours to both these sorts of cloth, resembling girls samplars, and finished with great neatness and elegance. What they consider as the most ornamental part of their dress is the fur of dogs, which they cut into stripes, and sew on different parts of their apparel. As dogs are not plenty, they dispose these stripes with great œconomy. They have a few dresses, ornamented with feathers; and one man was seen covered wholly with those of the red parrot.

The women never tie their hair on the top of their head, nor adorn it with feathers; and are less anxious about dress than the men. Their lower garment is bound tight round them, except when they go a fishing, and then they are careful that the men shall not see them. It once happened that some of the ship’s crew surprized them in this situation, when some of them hid themselves among the rocks, and the rest kept their bodies under water till they had formed a girdle and apron of weeds; in a word, their whole behaviour manifested the most refined ideas of female modesty.

The ears of both sexes are bored, and the holes stretched so as to admit a man’s finger. The ornaments of their ears are feathers, cloth, bones, and sometimes bits of wood; a great many of them made use of the nails which 393were given them by the English, for this purpose, and the women sometimes adorned their ears with the white down of the albatross, which they spread before and behind the hole, in a large bunch. They likewise hung to their ears by strings, chissels, bodkins, the teeth of dogs, and the teeth and nails of their deceased friends. The arms and ancles of the women are adorned with shells and bones, or any thing else through which they can pass a string. The men wear a piece of green talc, or whalebone, with the resemblance of a man carved on it, hanging to a string round the neck. They saw one man who had the gristle of his nose perforated, and a feather being passed through it, projected over each cheek.

These people shew less ingenuity in the structure of their houses, than in any thing else belonging to them; they are from sixteen to twenty-four feet long, ten or twelve wide, and six or eight in height. The frame is of slight sticks of wood, and the walls and roof are made of dry grass pretty firmly compacted. Some of them are lined with the bark of trees, and the ridge of the house is formed by a pole, which runs from one end to the other. The door is only high enough to admit a person crawling on hands and knees and the roof is sloping. There is a square hole near the door, serving both for window and chimney, near which is the fire-place. A plank is placed near 394the door, adorned with a sort of carving, and this they consider as an ornamental piece of furniture. The side walls and roof projecting two or three feet beyond the walls at each end, form a sort of portico, where benches are placed to sit on. The fire is made in the middle of a hollow square in the floor, which is enclosed with wood or stone. They sleep near the walls, where the ground is covered with straw for their beds.

Some who can afford it, and whose families are large, have three or four houses, enclosed within a court yard. Their cloaths, arms, feathers, some ill-made tools, and a chest, in which all these are deposited, form all the furniture of the inside of the house. Their hammers to beat fern-root, gourds to hold water, and baskets to contain provisions, are placed without the house.

One house was found near forty feet long, twenty wide, and fourteen high. Its sides were adorned with carved planks of workmanship superior to the rest; but the building appeared to have been left unfinished.

Though the people sleep warm enough at home, they seem to despise the inclemency of the weather, when they go in search of fish or fern-roots. Sometimes, indeed, they place a small defence to windward; but frequently sleep under bushes, with their arms placed round them, without the least shelter whatever.

395Besides the fern-root, which serves them for bread, they feed on albatrosses, penguins, and some other birds. Whatever they eat is either roasted or baked, as they have no vessel in which water can be boiled.

They saw no plantations of coccos, potatoes and yams, to the southward, though there were many in the northern parts.⁠—The natives drink no other liquor than water, and enjoy perfect and uninterrupted health.⁠—When wounded in battle, the wound heals in a very short time without the application of medicine; and the very old people carry no other marks of decay about them than the loss of their hair and teeth, and a failure of their muscular strength:⁠—but enjoy an equal share of health and chearfulness with the youngest.⁠—Such are the happy effects of exercise and temperance!

The canoes of this country are not unlike the whale-boats of New England, being long and narrow. The larger sort seem to be built for war, and will hold from thirty to one hundred men. One of these at Tolaga measured near seventy feet in length, six in width, and four in depth. It was sharp at the bottom, and consisted of three lengths, about two or three inches thick, and tied firmly together with strong plaiting: each side was formed of one entire plank, about twelve inches broad, and about an inch and a half thick, which were fitted to the bottom part with equal strength and ingenuity. 396Several thwarts were laid from one side to the other, to which they were securely fastened, in order to strengthen the canoes.

Some few of their canoes, at Mercury Bay and Opoorage, are all made entirely of one trunk of wood, which is made hollow by fire: but by far the greater part are built after the plan above described. The smaller boats, which are used chiefly in fishing, are adorned at head and stern with the figure of a man, the eyes of which are composed of the white shells of sea-ears, a tongue of enormous size is thrust out of the mouth, and the whole face is a picture of the most absolute deformity. The grander canoes, which are intended for war, are ornamented with open work, and covered with fringes of black feathers, which gives the whole an air of perfect elegance: the side boards, which are carved in a rude manner, are embellished with tufts of white feathers.

A Branch of the Bread-fruit Tree.
A War Canoe.

These vessels are rowed with a kind of paddles, between five and fix feet in length, the blade of which is a long oval, gradually decreasing till it reaches the handle; and the velocity with which they row with these paddles is really surprising. Their sails are composed of a kind of mat or netting, which is extended between two upright poles, one of which is fixed on each side. Two ropes, fastened to the top of each pole, serve instead of sheets. 397The vessels are steered by two men, having each a paddle, and sitting in the stern; but they can only sail before the wind, in which direction they move with considerable swiftness.

These Indians use axes, adzes and chissels, with which last they likewise bore holes. The chissels are made of jasper, or of the bone of a man’s arm; and their axes and adzes of a hard black stone. They use their small jasper tools till they are blunted, and then throw them away, having no instrument to sharpen them with. The Indians at Tolaga having been presented with a piece of glass, drilled a hole through it, and hung it round the neck. A small bit of jasper is thought to have been the tool they used in drilling it.

Their tillage of the ground is excellent, owing to the necessity they are under of cultivating or running the risk of starving. At Tegadoo their crops were just put into the ground, and the surface of the field was as smooth as a garden, the roots were ranged in regular lines, and to every root there remained a hillock. A long narrow stake, sharpened to an edge at bottom, with a piece fixed across a little above it, for the convenience of driving it into the ground with the foot, supplies the place both of plough and spade. The soil being light, their work is not very laborious, and with this instrument alone they will turn up ground of six or seven acres in extent.

398The seine, the large net which has been already noticed, is produced by the united labour, and is probably the joint property of a whole town. Their fish-hooks are of shell or bone; and they have baskets of wicker-work to hold the fish.

Their warlike weapons are spears, darts, battle-axes, and the patoo-patoo. The spear, which is pointed at each end, is about sixteen feet in length, and they hold it in the middle, so that it is difficult to parry a push from it. Whether they fight in boats or on shore, the battle is hand to hand, so that they must make bloody work of it. They trust chiefly in the patoo patoo, which is fastened to their wrists by means of a strong strap, that it may not be wrenched out of their hand. These are worn in the girdles of people of a superior rank, as a military ornament. They have a kind of staff of distinction, which is carried by the principal warriors. It is formed of a whale’s rib, is quite white, and adorned with carvings, feathers, and the hair of their dogs; and they sometimes carried a stick six feet long, inlaid with shells, and otherwise adorned like the military staff. This honourable mark of distinction was commonly borne by the old men.

A New Zealand Warrior in the Dress of his Country.

When they came to attack the English, there was usually one or more thus distinguished in each canoe. It was their custom to stop at about fifty or sixty yards distance from the ship, 399when the commanding officer, arising from his seat, and putting on a garment of dog’s skin, used to direct them how to proceed. When they were too far from the ship to reach it either with stone or lance, they cried out, Haromai, haromai, harre uta a patoo-patoo oge.⁠—“Come to us, come on shore, and we will kill you all with our patoo-patoos.” During these menaces they approached the ship, till they came along-side, talking peaceably at intervals, and answering whatever questions they were asked. Then again their threats were renewed, till, imagining the sailors were afraid of them, they began the war-song and dance⁠—an engagement always followed, and sometimes continued till the firing of small shot repulsed them; at others, only till they had satiated their vengeance by throwing a few stones on board the ship.

The Manner in which a Native of Otaheite defies his enemy by the wry Mouth.
The manner in which the New Zealand Warriors defy their Enemies.

In the war-dance, their motions are numerous, their limbs are distorted, and their faces are agitated. Their tongue hangs out of their mouths to a vast length, and their eye-lids are drawn so as to form a circle round the eye; they shake their darts, brandish their spears, and wave their patoo-patoos to and fro in the air. They accompany this dance with a song, which is sung in concert; every strain ending with a loud and deep sigh. There is an activity and vigour in their dancing, which is truly admirable; and their idea of keeping time in music is such, that sixty or eighty paddles will strike 400at once against the sides of their boats, and make only one report.

They sometimes sing, in times of peace, in a manner resembling the war-song; but then they do not dance with it. The women, whose voices are exceeding soft and harmonious, likewise sing in a melodious, but mournful manner; and their songs appear as if sung in parts. Their instruments of musick are, a shell, from which they produce a sound, resembling that made by a common horn; and a wooden pipe, not superior in musical found to a child’s whistle.

These people fortify all their hippahs, or towns, of which there are several between the bay of Plenty and queen Charlotte’s sound. In these the inhabitants of those parts constantly reside; but near Tolaga, Tegadoo, Hawk’s bay, and Poverty bay, there are no towns, only single houses at a considerable distance apart. On the sides of the hills were erected long stages, supplied with darts and stones, which were thought to be retreats in time of battle, and on which, from their elevated situation, they can combat the enemy with these weapons to great advantage. In these repositories they store their dried fish and fern-roots. The inhabitants of this part of the country were all subject to Teratu, who resided near the bay of Plenty; and to their being thus united under one Chief, they owed a security unknown to the inhabitants of the other parts 401of the country. There were several inferior governors in Teratus’s dominions, to whom the most implicit obedience was paid. One of the inhabitants having robbed the English, complaint was made to a Chief, who chastised him by kicking and striking him; while the thief bore his punishment with unresisting humility.

The inhabitants of the southern parts appeared to be co-partners in their fishing-nets and fine apparel. The latter, which probably were obtained in war, were kept in a little hut, destined for that use, in the centre of the town, and the several parts of the nets, being made by different families, were afterwards joined together for the common use. The gentlemen imagined, that the employment of the men consisted in cultivating the ground, making nets, catching birds, and fishing; while the women were engaged in weaving cloth, procuring fern-roots, and shell fish, and dressing food.

With regard to religion, they acknowledge one superior being, and several subordinate. Their mode of worship could not be learned, nor was any place proper for that purpose seen. There was indeed a small square area, encompassed with stones, in the middle of which hung a basket of fern-roots on one of their spades. This they said was offered to the gods, in the hope of a plentiful crop of provisions.

402The inhabitants of the southern district said, they disposed of their dead by throwing them into the sea; but those of the north said, they buried them in the ground: our adventurers, however, saw not the least sign of any grave or monument; but the body of almost every inhabitant bore the marks of wounds which they had given themselves, in token of grief for the loss or their friends and relations. Some of these scars were newly made, which is a proof that their friends had died while the ship’s crew were there; yet no one saw any thing like a funeral, as these islanders conceal every thing respecting the dead, with the utmost caution.

A great similitude was observed between the dress, furniture, boats and nets of the New Zealanders, and those of the inhabitants of the South-sea islands, which furnished a strong proof, that the common ancestors of both were natives of the same country. Indeed the inhabitants of these different places have a tradition, that their ancestors migrated from another country many ages since; and they both agree, that this country was called Heawige. But perhaps a yet stronger proof that their origin was the same, will arise from the similitude of their language, of which the following is a specimen.

403 New Zealand. | Otaheite. |
--- | --- | ---
Whahine, | Aheine, | A woman.
Taata, | Tata, | People.
Heoo-oo, | Eraowroo, | The hair.
Erai, | Irai, | The brow.
Mata, | Matau, | The eyes.
Ahewh, | Eahoo, | The nose.
Paparinga, | Paparea, | The cheeks.
Ateraboo, | Eoboo, | The belly.
Apeto, | Pito, | The navel.
Heromai, | Harre mai, | Come hither.
Taro, | Taro, | Coccos.
Tahai, | Tohe, | One.
Rua, | Rooa, | Two.
Torou, | Torhoo, | Three.
Ha, | Ha, | Four.
Etu, | Hitoo, | Seven.
Iva, | Iva, | Nine.
Heneaho, | Eneeho, | The teeth.

They sailed from Cape Farewell on the 31st of March 1770, and had fine weather and a fair wind till the 9th of April, when they saw a tropic bird, in the latitude of 38 degrees 29 minutes south, a sight very unusual in so high a latitude. On the 15th they saw an egg-bird and a gannet; and on the day following a small land-bird perched on the rigging, from which they concluded they were near land; but they found no ground with 120 fathom. On the 18th, in the morning, they saw a pintado-bird, and some 404Port Egmont hens, an infallible sign that land was not very distant. At six o’clock in the morning of the 19th they discovered land four or five leagues distant; the southermost part of which was called Point Hicks, in compliment to Mr. Hicks, the first Lieutenant, who made the discovery of it. At noon they discovered another point of the same land, rising in a round hillock, extremely like the Ram-Head at the entrance of Plymouth Sound, for which reason Captain Cook gave it the same name. What they had yet seen of the land was low and even, and the inland parts were green, and covered with wood. They now saw three water-spouts at the same time, one of which continued a quarter of an hour. At six in the evening the northermost point on the main land, which was distant about two leagues, was named Cape Howe. On the following day they had a distant view of the country, which was in general covered with wood, and interspersed with several small lawns. It appeared to be inhabited, as smoke was seen in several places. At four o’clock the next morning they saw a high mountain, which, from its shape, they called Mount Dromedary, under which there is a point, which received the name of Point Dromedary. In the evening they were opposite a point of land which rose perpendicularly, and was called Point Upright. On Sunday the 22d they were so near the shore, as to see several of 405the inhabitants on the coast, who were of a very dark complexion, if not perfect negroes. At noon they saw a remarkably peaked hill, to which the Captain gave the name of the Pigeon-house, from its resemblance to such a building. The trees on this island were both tall and large; but they saw no place fit to give shelter even to a boat.

The Captain gave the name of Cape George to a point of land which he discovered on St. George’s day: about two leagues to the north of which the sea formed a bay, which, from its shape, was called Long Nose; eight leagues from which lies Red-Point, so called from the colour of the soil in its neighbourhood. On the 27th they saw several of the inhabitants walking along the shore, four of them carrying a canoe on their shoulders: but as they did not attempt coming off to the ship, the Captain took Messrs. Banks and Solander and Tupia in the yawl, and employed four men to row them to that part of the shore where the natives appeared; near which four small canoes laid close in land. The Indians sat on the rocks till the yawl was within a quarter of a mile of the shore, and then ran away into the woods. The surf beating violently on the beach, prevented the boat from landing; the gentlemen were therefore obliged to make what observations they could at a distance. The canoes resembled the smaller sort of those of New Zealand. They 406saw, with longing eyes, a great number of cabbage-trees on shore: the other trees were of the palm-kind, and there was no underwood among them.

At five in the evening they returned to the ship, and a light breeze springing up, they sailed to the northward, where they discovered several people on shore round a fire, who, on their approach, retired to an eminence; soon after which two canoes arrived on the shore, and four men, who came in them, joined the others. The pinnace having been sent a-head to sound, arrived near the spot where the Indians had stationed themselves, on which one of them hid himself among the rocks near the landing place, and the others retreated farther up the hill. The pinnace keeping along shore, the Indians walked nearly in a line with her. They were armed with long pikes, and a weapon resembling a cymeter, and, by various signs and words, invited the boat’s crew to land. Those who did not follow the boat, having observed the approach of the ship, brandished their weapons, and threw themselves into threatening attitudes. The bodies, thighs and legs of two of these, were painted with white streaks, and their faces were almost covered with a white powder. They talked to each other with great emotion, and each of them held a kind of cymeter in his hand.

407The ship having come to an anchor, they observed a few huts, in which were some of the natives; and saw some canoes, in each of which was a man busily employed in striking fish with a kind of spear. They had anchored opposite a village of about eight houses, and observed an old woman and three children come out of a wood, laden with fuel for a fire: they were met by three smaller children, all of whom, as well as the woman, were quite naked. The old woman frequently looked at the ship with the utmost indifference, and, as soon as she had made a fire, the fishermen brought their canoes on shore, and they set about dressing their dinner with as much composure, as if a ship had been no extraordinary sight.

Having formed a design of landing, they manned the boats, and took Tupia with them; and they had no sooner come near the shore, than two men advanced, as if to dispute their setting foot on land. They were each of them armed with different weapons. They called out aloud in a harsh tone, warra warra wai, the meaning of which Tupia did not understand. The Captain threw them beads, nails and other trifles, which they took up, and seemed to be delighted with. He then made signs that he wanted water, and used every possible means to convince them that no injury was intended. They now made signs to the boat’s crew to land, on which they put the boat in; but they 408had no sooner done so, than the two Indians came again to oppose them. A musquet was now fired between them, on the report of which one of them dropped a bundle of lances, which he instantly snatched up again in great haste. One of them then threw a stone at the boat, on which the Captain ordered a musket loaded with small shot to be fired, which wounding the eldest of them on the legs, he retired hastily to one of their houses, which stood at some little distance. The people in the boats now landed, imagining that the wound which this man had received would put an end to the contest; in this, however, they were mistaken, for he immediately returned with a kind of shield, of an oval figure, painted white in the middle, with two holes in it to see through. They now advanced with great intrepidity, and both discharged their lances at the boat’s crew, but did not wound any of them. Another musket was now fired at them, on which they threw another lance, and then took to their heels. The crew now went up to the huts, in one of which they found the children, who had secreted themselves behind some bark. They looked at them, but left them without their knowing they had been seen; and having thrown some pieces of cloth, ribbons, beads, and other things into the hut, they took several of their lances, and reimbarked in the boat. The canoes on this coast were about thirteen feet in length, 409each made of the bark of a single tree, tied up at the ends, and kept open in the middle by means of sticks placed across them; their paddles are very small, and they use two at a time.

They now sailed to the north point of the bay, where they found a plenty of fresh water. On taking a view of the hut where they had seen the children, they had the mortification to find that every Indian was fled, and that they had left all the presents behind them. The Captain now went in the pinnace to inspect the bay, and saw several of the natives, who all fled as he approached them. Some men having been sent to get wood and water, they no sooner, came on board to dinner, than the natives came down to the place, and examined the casks with great attention, but did not offer to remove them. When the people were on shore in the afternoon, about twenty of the natives, all armed, advanced within a trifling distance of them, and then stopped, while two of their number approached still nearer. Mr. Hicks, the commanding officer, on shore, went towards them, with presents in his hands, and endeavoured, by every possible means, to assure them of his friendly intentions, but to no purpose, for they retired before he came up to them. In the evening Messrs. Banks and Solander went with the Captain to a cove north of the bay, where they catched between three and four hundred weight of fish, in four hauls.

410On Monday the 30th the natives came down to the huts before it was light, and were repeatedly heard to shout very loud; and soon after day-break they were seen on the beach; but quickly retired about a mile, and kindled several fires in the woods. This day some of the ship’s crew being employed in cutting grass, at a distance from the main body of those on shore, a party of Indians made towards them; on which the grass-cutters retreated to the main body, while the natives pursued them; but stopping within fifty or sixty yards of them, they shouted several times, and retired to the woods. In the evening they behaved exactly in the same manner, when the Captain followed them alone and unarmed for some time, but they still retired as he approached.

On Tuesday May the first, the south point of the bay was named Sutherland Point, one of the seamen, of the name of Sutherland, having died that day, and been buried on shore. This day Messrs. Banks, Solander, the Captain and a few other gentlemen, went on shore, and left more presents in the huts, such as looking-glasses, combs, &c. but the former ones had not been taken away.⁠—Making an excursion about the country, they found it agreeably variegated with wood and lawn. The trees being strait and tall, and without underwood, the country might be cultivated without cutting down one of them. The grass grows in large 411tufts, almost close to each other, and there is a great plenty of it. In this excursion they met with many places where the inhabitants had slept without shelter; but they saw only one man, who ran away the moment he beheld them. They left more presents, in their huts, and at their sleeping-places, in hopes of producing a friendly intercourse. They saw the dung of an animal which fed on grass, and traced the foot-steps of another, which had claws like a dog, and was probably about the size of a wolf: they discovered the track of a small animal, whose foot was like that of a pole-cat; and saw one animal alive, about the size of a rabbit. They found some wood which had been felled, and the bark stripped off by the natives; and saw several growing trees, in which steps had been cut, for the convenience of ascending them. The trees abounded with a vast variety of beautiful birds, among which were cockatoos, parroquets and loriquets, which flew in large flocks.

The second Lieutenant, Mr. Gore, having been with a boat to dredge for oysters, saw some Indians, who made signs for him to come on shore, which he declined. Having finished his business, he sent the boat away, and went by land with a Midshipman, to join the party that was getting water. In their way they met with more than twenty of the natives, who followed them so close, as to come within a few yards 412of them. Mr. Gore stopped and faced them; on which the Indians stopped also, and when he proceeded again they followed him; but they did not attack him, though they had each man his lance. The Indians coming in sight of the Waterers, stood still at the distance of a quarter of a mile, while Mr. Gore and his companion reached their shipmates in safety. Two or three of the Waterers now advanced towards the Indians; but observing they did not retire, they very imprudently turned about, and retreated hastily; this apparent cowardice inspirited the savages, who discharged four lances at the fugitives, which flying beyond them, they escaped unhurt. They now stopped to pick up the lances, on which the Indians retired in their turn. At this instant the Captain came up, with Messrs. Banks, Solander, and Tupia; and advancing, made signs of friendship; but the poor natives would not wait their coming up to them.

On the following day they again went on shore, where many plants were collected by Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks. They saw several parties of the Indians, who all ran away on their approach. Tupia having learnt to shoot, frequently strayed alone to shoot parrots; and the Indians constantly fled from him with as much precipitation as from the English. On the 3d of May, fourteen or fifteen Indians, in the same number of canoes, were engaged in 413striking fish within half a mile of the watering-place. At this time a party of the ship’s crew were shooting near the fishermen, one of whom Mr. Banks observed to haul up his canoe on the beach, and approach the people who were shooting. He watched their motions, unobserved by them, for more than a quarter of an hour, then put off his boat, and returned to his fishing.

At this time the Captain, with Dr. Solander and another gentleman, went to the head of the bay to try to form some connexion with the Indians. On their first landing they found several Indians on shore, who immediately retreated to their canoes, and rowed off. They went up the country, where they found the soil to be a deep black mould, which appeared to be calculated for the production of any kind of grain. They saw some of the finest meadows that were ever beheld, and met with a few rocky places, the stone of which is sandy, and seemed to be admirably adapted for building. In the woods they found a tree bearing cherries, if shape and colour may entitle them to that name, the juice of which was agreeably tart. They now returned to their boat, and seeing a fire at a distance, rowed towards it, but the Indians fled on their approach. Near the beach they found seven canoes, and as many fires, from whence they judged that each fisherman had dressed his own dinner. There were oysters lying on the spot, and some muscles roasting 414on the fire. They ate of these fish, and left them some beads and other trifles in return. They now returned to the ship; and in the evening Mr. Banks went out with his gun, and saw a great number of quails, some of which he shot, and they proved to be the same kind as those of England.

On the following day a Midshipman having strayed from his companions, came suddenly on an old man and woman, and some children, who were sitting naked under a tree together. They seemed afraid of him, but did not run away. The man wore a long beard, and both him and the woman were grey-headed; but the woman’s hair was cut short. This day, likewise, two of another party met with six Indians on the border of a wood, one of whom calling out very loud, a lance was thrown from the wood, which narrowly missed them. The Indians now ran off; and, on looking round, they saw a youth descend from a tree, who had doubtless been placed there for the purpose of throwing the lance at them. This day the Captain went up the country on the north-side of the bay, which he found to resemble the moory grounds of England; but the land was thinly covered with plants about sixteen inches high. The hills rise gradually behind each other to a great distance, and between them is marshy ground. Those who had been sent out to fish this day met with great success; and the 415second Lieutenant struck a fish called the sting-ray, which weighed near two hundred and fifty pounds. The next morning a fish of the same kind was catched, which weighed three hundred and fifty pounds.

The name of Botany Bay was given to this place, from the large number of plants collected by Messrs. Banks and Solander. This country produces two kinds of wood which may be deemed timber; one of which is tall and strait, like the pine, and the other is hard, heavy, and dark-coloured, like lignum vitæ; it yields a red gum, like sanguis draconis, and bears some resemblance to an English oak. There are mangroves in abundance, several kinds of palm, and a few shrubs. Among other kinds of birds, crows were found here, exactly like those of England. There is great plenty of water-fowl among the flats of sand and mud; one of which is shaped like a pelican, is larger than a swan, and has black and white feathers. These banks of mud abound with cockles, muscles, oysters, and other shell-fish, which greatly contribute towards the support of the natives, who sometimes dress them on shore, and at other times in their canoes. They likewise catch many other sorts of fish with hook and line.

While captain Cook remained in the harbour, the English colours were displayed on shore, daily, and the name of the ship, with the date 416of the year, was carved on a tree near the place where they took in their water.

They sailed from Botany Bay on the 6th of May, 1770; at noon were off a harbour which they called Port Jackson, and in the evening, near a bay, to which they gave the name of Broken Bay. The next day, at noon, the northermost land in sight projected so as to justify the calling it Cape Three Points. On Wednesday the 9th, they saw two exceeding beautiful rainbows, the colours of which were strong and lively; and those of the inner one so bright, as to reflect its shadow on the water. They made a complete semicircle, and the space between them was much darker than the rest of the sky. On Thursday they passed a low rocky point, which was named Point Stephens, near which was an inlet, denominated Port Stephens. Next day they saw smoke in several places on the shore; and in the evening discovered three remarkably high hills, near each other, which the Captain named the Three Brothers.

On Sunday the 13th they saw the smoke of many fires on a point of land, which was therefore called Smokey Cape. As they proceeded northward from Botany Bay, the land appeared high and well covered with wood. On Tuesday morning, by the assistance of their glasses, they discovered about a score of the Indians, each loaded with a bundle, which they 417imagined to be palm-leaves, to thatch their houses. They traced them for more than an hour, during which time they took not the least notice of the ship; at length they left the beach, and were lost behind a hill, which they gained by a gentle ascent.⁠—At noon the Captain discovered a high point of land, which he called Cape Byron. In the evening they discovered breakers at a considerable distance from the shore; so that they were obliged to tack, and get into deeper water; which having done, they lay with the head of the vessel to the land till the next morning, when they were astonished to find themselves farther to the southward than they had been the preceding evening, notwithstanding they had a southerly wind all night. In the morning they passed the breakers, near a peaked mountain, which was named Mount Warning; and the point off which they lay was called Point Danger. The next day they saw more breakers, near a point which was distinguished by the name of Point Look-out, to the north of which lies a bay, which Captain Cook called Moreton’s Bay; and the north point of which he named Cape Moreton. Near this place are three hills, which were called the Glass Houses, from the very strong resemblance they bore to such buildings.

On the 18th they descried a point so unequal, that it looks like two small islands lying under the land; and it was therefore called 418 Double Island Point. At noon, by the help of glasses, they discovered some sands, which lay in spots of several acres, which they observed were moveable, and that some of them had not been long in their present situation, as they saw trees half buried, and the tops of others still green; likewise the naked trunks of some that had been destroyed by the sand. At this time two beautiful water-snakes swam by the ship, which seemed to be distinguished from land-snakes, only by their broad and flat tails, which it was thought were useful to them in swimming. On the 19th they sailed by a point of land, on which a large number of the Indians were assembled, from whence it was called Indian Head. They soon afterwards saw many more of the natives, and observed smoke in the day-time, and fires by night. The next day they saw a point, which was named Sandy Cape, from two large tracts of white sand that were on it. They next passed a shoal which was called Break Sea Spit, because they had now smooth water, after having long encountered a high sea. They had, for some days past, seen the sea-birds, called boobies, none of which they had met with before; and which, from half an hour before sun-rising, to half an hour after, were continually passing the ship in large flights: from which it was conjectured, that there was a river or inlet of shallow water to the southward, where they 419went to feed in the day, returning in the evening to some islands to the northward. In honour of Captain Hervey, this bay was called Hervey’s Bay.

On the 22d, by the help of their glasses, they discovered that the land was covered with palm-nut trees, none of which they had seen since they quitted the islands within the tropic. The next morning early the Captain took a party of men, and being attended by Tupia, and the several gentlemen on board, went on shore to examine the country. They landed a little within the point of a bay, which led into a large lagoon, by the sides of which grows the true mangrove, as it also does on some bogs, and swamps of salt-water which they discovered. There were many nests of a singular kind of ant, as green as grass, in the branches of these mangroves. When the branches were disturbed they came forth in great numbers, and bit the disturber most severely. These trees likewise afforded shelter for immense numbers of green caterpillars, their bodies were covered with hairs, which, on the touch, gave a pain similar to the sting of a nettle, but much more acute. These insects ranged themselves side by side on the leaves, thirty or forty together, in a very regular manner. They saw, among the sand banks, many birds larger than swans, which they imagined were pelicans; and they shot a kind of bustard, which weighed seventeen 420pounds. This bird proved very delicate food, and gave name to the place, which was called Bustard-bay. They likewise shot a duck of a most beautiful plumage, with a white beak. They found vast numbers of oysters of various sorts, and, among the rest, some hammer oysters of a curious kind. While the gentlemen were in the woods, several of the natives came down and took a survey of the ship, and then departed. The gentlemen on shore saw fires in many places, and repairing to one of them, they found about a dozen small fires burning near each other; but the people were gone, and had left some shells and bones of fish they had just eaten. They likewise saw several pieces of soft bark, about the length and breadth of a man, which they judged had been used as beds. This kind of encampment was in a thicket well defended from the wind; and as the place was much trodden, and there was no appearance of a house, it was imagined that they spent their nights, as well as days, in the open air: even Tupia shook his head, and exclaimed, Taata Enos! “Poor wretches!” They sailed the next morning, and on the day following were a-breast of a point, which lying immediately under the tropic, the Captain called Cape Capricorn, on the west side of which they saw an amazing number of large birds resembling the pelican, some of which were near five feet high.

421On the 26th they stood between a range of almost barren islands, and the main land, which is mountainous. They had here very shallow water, and anchored in sixteen feet, which was not two feet more than the ship drew. Mr. Banks tried to fish from the cabin windows, but the water was too shallow. The ground indeed was covered with crabs, which greedily seized the bait, and held it till they were above water. These crabs were of two kinds, one of a very fine blue, with a white belly, and the other marked with blue on the joints, and having three remarkable brown spots on the back. The Captain having sent some men in a boat a-head to sound, they returned with an account, that there was not water enough for the ship to pass through, upon which they tacked about and stood back again. In the morning they sailed to the northward, and to the northermost point of land the Captain gave the name of Cape Manifold, from the number of high hills appearing above it. Between this cape and the shore is a bay called Keppel’s Bay, and some islands bearing the name of the same gentleman. On the 28th, being determined to keep the main land close aboard, which continued to tend away to the west, they got among another cluster of islands; they were here again greatly alarmed, having on a sudden but three fathom water, in a ripling tide; they immediately put the ship about, and hoisted out the boats in 422search of deeper water; after which they stood to the west with an easy sail, and in the evening, came to the entrance of a bay. On the 29th, in the morning, the master was sent with two boats to sound the bay; and the ship was no sooner under sail, than the boats made the signal, and the ship accordingly came to an anchor. As they observed the tide to flow and ebb considerably, they imagined this bay to be the entrance of a river which ran up the country: in this place therefore the Captain intended to lay the ship a-shore and clean her bottom; and accordingly landed, in search of a proper place for the purpose.

In this excursion Messrs. Banks and Solander attended Captain Cook. They found walking extremely incommodious, the ground being covered with grass, the seeds of which were sharp, and bearded, so that they were continually sticking in their cloaths, whence they worked forwards to the flesh, by means of the beard. They were likewise tormented with the perpetual stinging of musquetos. Several places were found convenient, to lay the ship a-shore; but they could meet with no fresh water. In the interior parts of the country they found gum-trees, on the branches of which were white ants nests formed of clay, as big as a bushel. On another tree they found black ants, which formed their lodging in the body of it, after they had eaten away the pith; yet the trees were 423in a flourishing condition. They found butterflies in such incredible numbers, that whatever way they looked, many thousands were to be seen in the air; while every bough and twig was covered with multitudes. They likewise discovered on dry ground, where it was supposed to have been left by the tide, a fish about the size of a minnow, having two strong breast fins, with which it leaped away as nimbly as a frog: it did not appear to be weakened by being out of water, nor even to prefer that element to the land; for when seen in the water it leaped on shore, and pursued its way. It was likewise remarked, that where there were small stones projecting above the water, it chose rather to leap from one stone to another, than to swim through the water.

On the 30th the Captain went ashore very early, and having gained the summit of a hill, took a survey of the coast, and adjacent islands; which being done, he accompanied Dr. Solander up an inlet, which had been discovered the preceding day; but the weather proving unfavourable, they returned early to the ship, having seen only two Indians, who followed the boat a considerable way along the shore; but the tide running strong, they did not think it prudent to wait for them. This day Mr. Banks went with a party on shore, and having met with a piece of swampy ground, covered with mangroves, they resolved to pass it, which 424they did, up to the knees in mud, and sometimes crawling on their hands, when they had slipt between the branches of trees, which were interwoven on the surface of the swamp. Having performed this disagreeable task, they arrived at a spot where the natives appeared to have slept on the grass, and where there were the remains of a fish supper, which had been roasted by four small fires. The second Lieutenant, at another place, saw the track of a large animal, near a gully of water: he likewise heard the voices of the Indians, but did not see any. Two turtles were seen at this place, some waterfowl, and a few small land-birds.

As no water was to be found, the Captain called the inlet Thirsty Sound, which they left on the 31st of May, and having sailed round three small islands, anchored in fifteen fathom water. On the 1st of June they got under sail, having a number of islands in sight, as far as the eye could reach. On the second at noon they saw a high promontory, which was called Cape Hillsborough, and seemed to abound in wood and herbage, distributed on hills, plains, and in vallies. There are a number of small islands in this neighbourhood, on some of which they saw smoke arising in different places. On Sunday the 3d they discovered a point, which was named Cape Conway, and between that and Cape Hillsborough a bay, which took the name of Repulse Bay. 425The land about Cape Conway is diversified by hills and dales, lawns and woods, and forms a delightfully verdant appearance. By the help of their glasses they discovered three people, on one of the islands, and a canoe, with an outrigger, like those of Otaheite. They this day named the islands, Cumberland Islands, in honour of the Duke; and a passage which they discovered was called Witsunday’s Passage, from the day on which it was seen. At day-break, on Monday, they were a-breast of a point, which took the name of Cape Gloucester. Names were likewise this day given to three other places, viz. Holborne Isle, Edgcumbe Bay, and Cape Upstart, which latter was so called, because it rises abruptly from the low lands that surround it.

On Tuesday, when near the shore, they saw very large columns of smoke rising from the low-lands. This day they gave name to Cleaveland Bay, the east point of which was called Cape Cleaveland, and the west Magnetical Isle, because the compass did not traverse well when they were near it. The points, as well as the main land within them, lay high, and form a barren, rugged and rocky coast. On the afternoon of Thursday they saw several large columns of smoke, likewise some canoes, and several natives, with some trees, that they thought were those of cocoa-nut; in search of which fruit Messrs. Banks and Solander went 426ashore with Lieutenant Hicks; but they returned in the evening with a few plants, which they had gathered from the cabbage palm, and which had been mistaken for the cocoa-tree. On Friday they gave the name of Point Hillock to a point of land; between which and Magnetical Isle the shore forms Halifax Bay, which affords shelter from all winds. At six this evening they were a-breast of a point of land, which was named Cape Sandwich, near which lies Rockingham Bay. Hence they ranged northward along the shore, towards a cluster of islands, on one of which about forty men, women and children were standing together, and looking at the ship with a curiosity never observed among these people before. The north point of Rockingham bay was called Dunk Isle, which is scarcely to be distinguished from the shore, it lies so very near it. On Saturday morning they were a-breast of some small islands, which were named Frankland’s Isles; near which lie two places, which were called Cape Grafton and Green Island. Here Messrs. Banks and Solander went ashore with the Captain, whose chief view were to procure water, which not being easily to be got, they soon returned on board, and the next day arrived near Trinity Bay, which was so called, because it was discovered on Trinity Sunday.

As no accident remarkably unfortunate had befallen our adventurers, during a navigation of 427more than thirteen hundred miles, upon a coast every where abounding with the most dangerous rocks and shoals; no name expressive of distress had hitherto been given to any cape or point of land which they had seen. But they now gave the name of Cape Tribulation to a point which they had just discovered, as they here became acquainted with misfortune.

This cape is in sixteen degrees six minutes south latitude, and 214 degrees 39 minutes west longitude.

At six in the evening they shortened sail, to avoid the danger of some rocks, which were seen a-head, and to observe whether any islands lay in the offing, as they were now near the latitude of those islands said to have been discovered by Quiros. They kept standing off from six o’clock till near nine, with a fine breeze and bright moon. They had got from fourteen into twenty-one fathom water; when suddenly they fell into twelve, ten, and eight fathom, in a few minutes. Every man was instantly ordered to his station, and they were on the point of anchoring, when, on a sudden, they had again deep water, so that they thought all danger was at an end, concluding they had sailed over the tail of some shoals which they had seen in the evening. They had twenty fathom and upwards before ten o’clock, and this depth continuing some time, the gentlemen, who had hitherto been upon deck, retired to 428rest; but in less than an hour the water shallowed at once from twenty to seventeen fathom, and, before soundings could be again taken, the ship struck against a rock, and remained fixed, but from the motion given her by the beating of the surge. Every one was instantly on deck, with countenances fully expressive of the agitation of their minds. As they knew they were not near the shore, they concluded they had struck against a rock of coral, the points of which being sharp, and the surface so rough, as to grind away whatever is rubbed against it, tho’ with a gentle motion; they had reason to dread the horror of their situation!

The sails being taken in, and boats hoisted out to examine the depth of water, they found that the ship had been carried over a ledge of the rock, and lay in a hollow within it. Finding that the water was deepest eastern, they carried out the anchor from the starboard quarter, and applied their whole force to the capstern, in hopes to get the vessel off, but in vain. She now beat so violently against the rock, that the crew could scarcely keep on their legs. The moon now shone bright, by the light of which they could see the sheathing boards float from the bottom of the vessel; till at length the false keel followed, so that they expected instant destruction. Their best chance of escaping seemed now to be by lightening her; but as they had struck at high water, they would 429have been but in their present situation, after the vessel should draw as much less water as the water had sunk: but their anxiety abated a little, on finding that the ship settled to the rocks as the tide ebbed. They, however, flattered themselves, that if the ship should keep together till next tide, they might have some chance of floating her. They therefore instantly started the water in the hold, and pumped it up. The decayed stores, oil jars, casks, ballast, six of their guns, and other things, were thrown overboard, in order to get at the heavier articles; and in this business they were employed till daybreak, during all which time it was observed, that not an oath was sworn; so much were the minds of the sailors impressed with a sense of their danger.

At day-light they saw land at eight leagues distance; but not a single island between them and the main, on which part of the crew might have been landed, while the boat went on shore with the rest; so that the destruction of the greater part of them would have been inevitable, had the ship gone to pieces. It happened, however, that the wind died away to a dead calm before noon. As they expected high water at eleven o’clock, every thing was prepared to make another effort to free the ship; but the tide fell so much short of that in the night, that she did not float by eighteen inches, though they had thrown over-board near fifty tons 430weight: they now, therefore, renewed their toil, and threw over-board every thing that could be possibly spared. As the tide fell, the water poured in so rapidly, that they could scarcely keep her free by the constant working of two pumps. Their only hope now depended on the midnight tide, and preparations were accordingly made for another effort to get the ship off. The tide began to rise at five o’clock, when the leak likewise encreased to such a degree, that two more pumps were manned; but only one of them would work: three, therefore, were kept going till nine o’clock, at which time the ship righted; but so much water had been admitted by the leak, that they expected she would sink as soon as the water should bear her off the rock. Their situation was now deplorable beyond description; and the imagination must paint what would baffle the powers of language to describe. They knew that when the fatal moment should arrive, all authority would be at an end. The boats were incapable of conveying them all on shore; and they dreaded a contest for the preference, as more shocking than the shipwreck itself: yet it was considered, that those who might be left on board, would eventually meet with a milder fate than those who, by gaining the shore, would have no chance but to linger the remains of life among the rudest savages in the universe, and in a country, where 431fire-arms would barely enable them to support a wretched existence.

At twenty minutes after ten the ship floated, and was heaved into deep water; when they were happy to find that she did not admit more water than she had done before; yet as the leak had for a considerable time gained on the pumps, there was now three feet nine inches water in the hold. By this time the men were so worn by fatigue of mind and body, that none of them could pump more than five or six minutes at a time, and then threw themselves, quite spent, on the deck, amidst a stream of water which came from the pumps. The succeeding man being fatigued in his turn, threw himself down in the same manner, while the former jumped up and renewed his labour; thus mutually struggling for life, till the following accident had like to have given them up a prey to absolute despair.

Between the inside lining of the ship’s bottom, which is called the ceiling, and the outside planking, there is a space of about seventeen or eighteen inches. The man who had hitherto taken the depth of water at the well, had taken it no farther than the ceiling; but being now relieved by another person, who took the depth to the outside planking, it appeared by this mistake, that the leak had suddenly gained upon the pumps, the whole difference between the two plankings.⁠—This circumstance deprived them 432of all hopes, and scarce any one thought it worth while to labour, for the longer preservation of a life which must so soon have a period: but the mistake was soon discovered; and the joy arising from such unexpected good news inspired the men with so much vigour, that before eight o’clock in the morning they had pumped out considerably more water than they had shipped. They now talked confidently of getting the ship into some harbour; and set heartily to work to get in their anchors; one of which, and the cable of another, they lost: but these were now considered as trifles. Having a good breeze from the sea, they got under sail at eleven o’clock, and stood for the land.

As they could not discover the exact situation of the leak, they had no prospect of stopping it within side of the vessel; but the following expedient, which one of the Midshipmen had formerly seen tried with success, was adopted. They took an old studding sail, and having mixed a large quantity of oakham and wool, chopped small, it was stitched down in handfuls on the sail, as lightly as possible; the dung of their sheep and other filth being spread over it. Thus prepared, the sail was hauled under the ship by ropes, which kept it extended till it came under the leak, when the suction carried in the oakham and wool from the surface of the sail. This experiment succeeded so well, that, 433instead of three pumps, the water was easily kept under with one.

They had hitherto had no further view than to run the ship into an harbour, and build a vessel from her materials, in which they might reach the East Indies; but they now began to think of finding a proper place to repair her damage, and then to pursue their voyage on its original plan. At six in the evening they anchored seven leagues from the shore; and found that the ship made fifteen inches water an hour during the night; but as the pumps could clear this quantity, they were not uneasy. At nine in the morning they passed two islands, which were called Hope Islands, because the reaching of them had been the object of their wishes at the time of the shipwreck. In the afternoon the Master was sent out with two boats to sound, and search for a harbour where the ship might be repaired. They anchored at sun-set, in four fathom, two miles from the shore. One of the Mates being out in the pinnace, returned at nine o’clock, reporting, that he had found just such a harbour as was wanted, at the distance of two leagues.

At six o’clock the next morning they sailed, having previously sent two boats a-head, to lie on the shoals that they saw in their way. They soon anchored about a mile from the shore, when the Captain went out, and found the channel very narrow, but the harbour was better 434adapted to their present purpose, than any place they had seen in the whole course of their voyage. As it blew very fresh this day and the following night, they could not venture to run into the harbour, but remained at anchor during the two succeeding days, in the course of which they observed four Indians on the hills, who stopped and made two fires.

The men by this time began to be afflicted with the scurvy, and their Indian friend, Tupia, was so bad with it, that he had livid spots on both his legs. Mr. Green, the astronomer, was likewise ill of the same disorder; so that their being detained from landing was every way disagreeable. The wind continued fresh till Sunday the 17th, but they then resolved to push in for the harbour, and twice ran the ship a-ground; the second time of which she stuck fast; on which they took the booms, fore-yard, and fore-top-masts down, and made a raft on the side of the ship; and, as the tide happened to be rising, she floated at one o’clock. She was now soon got into the harbour, where she was moored along the side of a beach, and the anchors, cables, &c. immediately taken out of her.

On Monday morning they erected a tent for the sick, several of whom were brought on shore as soon as it was ready for their reception. They likewise built a tent to hold the provisions and stores, which were landed the same day. 435The boat was now dispatched in search of fish for the refreshment of the sick, but she returned without getting any; but Tupia employed himself in angling; and living entirely on the produce of his industry, recovered his health very fast. Mr. Banks, in an excursion up the country, saw the frames of several Indian houses, which appeared to have been abandoned some time: while the Captain, having ascended one of the highest hills, observed the high land to be stoney and barren, and the low land near the river over-run with mangroves, among which the salt-water flowed every tide.

On Tuesday the Captain ordered the smith’s forge to be set up, and directed the armourer to prepare the necessary iron work for the repair of the vessel. He likewise ordered out the officers stores, water, &c. in order to lighten the ship. This day Mr. Banks crossed the river to view the country, which was little else than sand-hills. He saw vast flocks of crows and pigeons, of the latter of which he shot several, which were most beautiful birds. On the day following, as they were removing the coals, the water rushed in, near the foremast, about three feet from the keel; so that it was resolved to clear the hold entirely; wherefore they took out all the coals, and the next day warped the ship higher up the harbour, to a station proper for laying her a-shore, in order to stop the leak.

436Early in the morning of the 22d the tide left the ship, and they proceeded to examine the leak, when they found that the rocks had cut through four planks into the timbers, and that three other planks were damaged. In these breaches not a splinter was to be seen, the whole being smooth, as if cut away by an instrument: but the preservation of the vessel was owing to a very singular circumstance. One of the holes was large enough to have sunk her, even with eight pumps constantly at work; but this hole was in a great measure stopped up by the fragment of the rock being left sticking in it. They likewise found some pieces of the oakham, wool, &c. which had got between the timbers, and stopped many parts of the leak which had been left open by the stone. Exclusive of the leak, great damage was done to various parts of the ship’s bottom.

While the smiths were engaged in making nails and bolts, the carpenters began to work on the vessel; and some of the crew were sent across the river to shoot pigeons for the sick. These people found a stream of fresh water, discovered many Indian houses, and had sight of a mouse-coloured animal, extremely swift, and about the size of a greyhound. On the 23d they saw plenty of fish, but catched only three. This day many of the crew saw the animal above-mentioned; and one of the seamen declared he had seen the Devil, which he described 437in the following words, “He was as large, says he, as a one gallon keg, and very like it; he had horns and wings, yet he crept so slowly through the grass, that if I had not been afeard, I might have touched him.” It appeared afterwards, that this poor fellow had seen a bat, which is almost black, and as large as a partridge; and his own apprehensions had furnished his Devil with horns.

The repairs on the starboard side having been finished the preceding day, the carpenters began to work under the larboard bow, on Sunday the 24th.⁠—This day Mr. Gore and a party procured a bunch or two of wild plantains, and a few palm cabbages, for the refreshment of the sick; and the Captain and Mr. Banks saw the animal abovementioned, which had a long tail, that it carried like a greyhound; it leapt like a deer, and the point of its foot resembled that of a goat.

The ship was now examined abaft, when it was discovered, that she had received but little injury in that quarter. The carpenters continued to work on her whenever the tide would permit. The vessel was now in a position which threw all the water abaft; and Mr. Banks having removed his whole collection of plants into the bread-room, they were this day found under water, by which some of them were totally destroyed; but, by great care, most of them were restored to a state of preservation.

438The ship being in part repaired, they twice attempted to float her, by lashing a number of casks under her bottom; but their endeavours proving fruitless, they were obliged to wait for the next spring tide. This day a plant was found, the leaves of which were almost as good as spinnage. They likewise found more cabbage trees, some wild plantain, and a fruit of a deep purple colour, and the size of a golden pippin; which, after being kept a few days, tasted like a damson.

The carpenter was now engaged in caulking the ship, and the men employed in filling water and other necessary business; while the Captain amused himself in catching fish for the sick. On the 28th Mr. Banks took some of the crew up the country, to shew them a plant which served them for greens, and which the inhabitants of the West Indies call Indian kale. Here they saw a tree notched for climbing, in the same way as those seen in Botany bay. They also met with nests of white ants, from a few inches to five feet in height. Mr. Gore was up the country, where he saw prints of the feet of men, and the tracks of three or four kinds of animals.

On the day following the boat took as many fish as allowed a pound and an half to each man. A Midshipman saw a wolf, exactly resembling those of America. On the 30th the Captain ascended a hill to take a view of the 439sea, when, to his great concern, he observed innumerable sand-banks and shoals, in every direction; but there was an appearance of a passage to the northward, the only way he could think of getting clear, as the wind constantly blows from the south-east. Mr. Gore this day saw two straw-coloured animals, of the size of a hare, but shaped like a dog. So much fish was taken, that each man had two pounds and a half; and plenty of greens were gathered, which being boiled with the pease, their fare was deemed excellent.

On Sunday July the 1st, all the men had permission to go on shore, except one from each mess, who went on the fishing party, and again met with great success. A fire was this day observed about a mile up the river. The master having been sent in the pinnace, in search of a channel, returned on Tuesday, with an account that he had found a passage out to sea, between the shoals, which consisted of coral rocks, many of which were left dry at low water. He found some cockles so large, that one of them was more than sufficient for two men; and likewise plenty of other shell-fish, of which he brought a supply to the ship, in his return to which he had landed in a bay where some Indians were at supper; but they instantly fled, leaving some sea-eggs, and a fire for the dressing them. This day they succeeded in an attempt to float the ship; when they found that, 440by the position she had lain in, she had sprung a plank, so that it was again necessary to lay her ashore. An alligator swam by her several times this day.

On the 4th she was laid ashore on a sand-bank, and the next day floated at high water, and moored off the beach, in order to receive the stores on board. This day Mr. Banks crossed the harbour, and found, on a sandy beach, a great number of fruits, such as they had not seen before; among which was a cocoa-nut, which Tupia said had been opened by a crab, and which was judged to be what the Dutch call Beurs Krabbe. The vegetable substances which Mr. Banks picked up were encrusted with marine productions, which is said to be a proof of their having been brought far by sea.

Mr. Banks and a party having taken a boat up the river, on the 6th, with a view to make an excursion in the country, returned on the 8th.⁠—They examined some parts of the country, which differing but little from what they had already seen, they followed the course of the river, which they at length found contracted into a narrow channel, bounded by steep banks, which were adorned with trees of a most beautiful appearance, among which was the bark-tree. The land was low and covered with grass, and seemed capable of being cultivated to great advantage. They saw several animals, one of which was judged to be a wolf. 441At night they made a fire, and took up their quarters on the banks of the river; but the night was rendered extremely disagreeable by the stings of the musquitos, which pursued them into the smoke, and almost into the fire. At break of day they sat out in search of game, and saw four animals, two of which were chaced by Mr. Banks’s greyhound; but they greatly outstripped him in speed, by leaping over the long thick grass, which incommoded the dog in running. It was observed of this animal, that he leaped or bounded forward on two legs, instead of running on four. Having returned to the boat, they proceeded up the river, till it contracted to a brook of fresh water, but in which the tide still rose considerably. When they stopped for the night, they saw a smoke at a small distance, on which three of them approached it, but the Indians were gone. They saw the impression of feet on the sand, below high-water mark, and found a fire still burning in the hollow of an old tree. At a small distance they saw several huts, and observed ovens dug in the ground; the remains of a recent meal were likewise apparent. They now retired to their resting place, and slept on plantain-leaves, with bunches of grass for their pillows, on the side of a sand-bank, under the shelter of a bush.

The tide favouring their return in the morning, they lost no time in getting back to the 442ship. The master, who had been seven leagues at sea, returned soon after Mr. Banks, bringing with him three turtle, which he took with a boat hook, and which together weighed near eight hundred pounds. He was sent out next morning, and Mr. Banks accompanied him with proper instruments for catching turtle; but, not being successful, he would not go back that night; so that Mr. Banks, after collecting some shells and marine productions, returned in his own small boat.

In the morning the second Lieutenant was sent to bring the Master back, soon after which four Indians, in a small canoe, were within sight. The Captain now determined to take no notice of these people, as the most likely way to be noticed by them. This project answered: two of them came within musket-shot of the vessel, where they conversed very loud: in return the people on board shouted, and made signs of invitation. The Indians gradually approached, with their lances held up, not in a menacing manner, but as if they meant to intimate they were capable of defending themselves. They came almost along-side, when the Captain threw them cloth, nails, paper, &c. which did not seem to attract their notice. At length one of the sailors threw them a small fish, which so pleased them, that they hinted their design of bringing their companions, and immediately rowed for the shore. In the interim, Tupia 443and some of the crew landed on the opposite shore. The four Indians now came quite along-side the ship; and having received farther presents, landed where Tupia and the sailors had gone. They had each two lances, and a stick with which they throw them. Advancing towards the English, Tupia persuaded them to lay down their arms, and sit by him, which they readily did. Others of the crew now going a-shore, the Indians seemed jealous, least they should get between them and their arms; but care was taken to convince them that no such thing was intended, and more trifles were presented to them. The crew staid with them till dinner-time, and then made signs of invitation for them to go to the ship and eat; but this they declined, and retired in their canoe.

These men were of the common stature, with very small limbs; their complexion a deep chocolate; their hair black, either lank or curled, but not of the wool kind; the breast and upper lip of one of them were painted with streaks of white, which he called Carbanda, and some parts of their bodies had been painted red. Their teeth were white and even, their eyes bright, and their features rather pleasing: their voices were musical, and they repeated several English words with great readiness.

The visit of three of these Indians was renewed the next morning, and they brought with them a fourth, whom they called Yapa-Rico; 444who appeared to be a person of some consequence. The bone of a bird, about six inches long, was thrust through the gristle of his nose: and indeed all the inhabitants of this place had their noses bored, for the reception of such an ornament. These people being all naked, the Captain gave one of them an old shirt, which he bound round his head like a turban, instead of using it to cover any part of his body. They brought a fish to the ship, which was supposed to be in payment for that given them the preceding day: after staying some time, with apparent satisfaction, they suddenly leaped into their canoe, and rowed off, from a jealousy of some of the gentlemen who were examining it.

Three Indians visited Tupia’s tent on the 12th of July, and after remaining some time, one of them went for two others, whom he introduced by name. Some fish was offered them, but they seemed not much to regard it, and, after eating a little, gave the remainder to Mr. Banks’s dog. Some ribbands which had been given them, to which medals were suspended round their necks, were so changed by smoke, that it was difficult to judge what colour they had been; and the smoke had made their skins look darker than their natural colour; from whence it was thought that they slept close to their fires, as a preventative against the sting of the musquitos. Both the strangers had bones 445through their noses, and a piece of bark tied over the forehead; and one of them had an ornament of strings round his arm, and an elegant necklace made of shells. Their canoe was about ten feet long, and calculated to hold four persons; and when it was in shallow water they moved it by means of poles. Their lances had only a single point, and some of them were barbed with fish-bones. On the 14th Mr. Gore shot one of the mouse-coloured animals abovementioned. It chanced to be a young one, weighing no more than thirty-eight pounds; but when full grown they are as large as a sheep. The skin of this beast, which is called Kanguroo, is covered with short fur, and is of a dark mouse-colour: the head and ears are somewhat like those of a hare: this animal was dressed for dinner, and proved fine eating. The ship’s crew fed on turtle almost every day, which were finer than those eaten in England, owing to their being killed before their natural fat was wasted, and their juices changed.

On the 17th Messrs. Banks and Solander went with the Captain into the woods, and saw four Indians in a canoe, who went on shore, and walked up without sign of fear. They accepted some beads, and departed, intimating, that they did not chuse to be followed. The natives being now become familiar with the ship’s crew, one of them was desired to 446throw his lance, which he did with such dexterity and force, that though it was not above four feet from the ground at the highest, it penetrated deeply into a tree at the distance of fifty yards. The natives now went on board the ship, and were well pleased with their entertainment. On the 19th they saw several of the women, who, as well as the men, were quite naked. They were this day visited by ten of the natives, who seemed resolved to have one of the turtle that was on board, which they repeatedly made signs for, and being as repeatedly refused, they expressed the utmost rage and resentment; and one of them, in particular, having received a denial from Mr. Banks, he stamped, and pushed him away in the most violent manner. At length they laid hands on two of the turtles, and drew them to the side of the ship where their canoe lay; but the sailors took them away. They made several similar attempts, but being equally unsuccessful, they leaped suddenly into their canoe, and rowed off. At this instant the Captain, with Mr. Banks, and five or fix seamen, went ashore, where they arrived before the Indians, and where many of the crew were already employed. As soon as the Indians landed, one of them snatched a fire-brand from under a pitch kettle, and running to the windward of what effects were on shore, set fire to the dry grass, which burnt rapidly, scorched a pig to 447death, burnt part of the smith’s forge, and would have destroyed a tent of Mr. Banks’s, but that some people came from the ship just in time to get it out of the way of the flames. In the interim the Indians went to a place where the fishing nets lay, and a quantity of linen was laid out to dry, and there again set fire to the grass, in spite of all persuasion, and even of threats. A musket loaded with small shot was now fired, and one of them being wounded, they ran away, and this second fire was easily extinguished; but the other burnt far into the woods.

The natives continuing still in sight, a musquet charged with ball was fired near them; upon hearing which they soon got out of sight: but their voices being soon heard in the woods, and seeming to come nearer, the Captain, with a few people, went to meet them. When they were in sight of each other, both parties stopped, except an old Indian, who advanced before the rest a little way, but soon halted, and speaking a few words, retreated to his brethren, and they all retired slowly together. The English having seized some of their darts, followed them about a mile, and then sat down, the Indians sitting about an hundred yards from them. The old man again came forward, having in his hand a lance with a point. He stopped and spoke several times, on which the Captain made signs of friendship. The old Indian now 448turned to his companions, and having spoken to them, they placed their lances against a tree, and came forward as in friendship; whereupon their darts which had been taken were returned, and the whole quarrel seemed to be at an end. The Indians having accepted some trinkets, walked amicably toward the coast, intimating, by signs, that they would not fire the grass again. They sat down opposite the ship, but would not go on board; and they accepted a few musquet-balls, the use and effect of which the Captain endeavoured to explain to them. When Captain Cook got on board he saw the woods burning at the distance of two miles.

The master having been sent to search for a passage to the northward, returned with an account that he could not find any. By the night of the 20th the fire had extended many miles round them on the hills, which at night formed an appearance that was very striking. On the 22d they killed a turtle, through both shoulders of which stuck a wooden harpoon, which the Indians had striken it with, and the wound was quite healed. The next day one of the seamen, who had strayed from his company, met with four Indians at dinner: he was alarmed at this unexpected meeting, but had prudence enough to conceal his apprehensions, and sitting down by them, gave them his knife, which having all looked at, they returned: he would then have left them; but they chose to detain him till, by 449feeling his hands and face, they were convinced he was made of flesh and blood like themselves: they then dismissed him, directing him the nearest way to the ship.

Mr. Banks having gone on shore in search of plants, found the cloth, which had been distributed among the natives, lying in a heap, as a commodity of no value. On the 24th, Messrs. Solander and Banks found several marking nuts [the Anacardium orientale] on the ground; but their search for the tree that bore them was fruitless. On the 26th Mr. Banks catched a female animal, called the Opossum, with two young ones.

By the 29th the ship was ready for sea; but there was not water sufficient for her to pass the bar. On the first of August they found that their pumps were all rotten; but as the ship admitted only an inch of water in an hour, they hoped she would be stout enough to bear the voyage. On the 4th of this month they put to sea, the pinnace going a-head to keep sounding, and at noon came to an anchor, when the Captain gave the name of Cape Bedford to the northermost point of land in sight, and that of Endeavour River to the harbour which they had quitted.

The provisions they obtained while in this harbour, consisted of turtle, which they went some miles to sea to catch; oysters of three different sorts, large cavalhe or scomber, large 450mullets, some flat fish, a great number of small scombri, and skate or ray fish; purslain, wild beans, the tops of coccos, and cabbage palms. Of quadrupedes there are goats, wolves, and pole-cats, and a spotted animal of the viverra kind; and several kinds of serpents, only some of which are venomous. Dogs are the only tame animals; the land-fowls are kites, crows, hawks, loriquets, cockatoos, parrots, pigeons, and small birds of various kinds, the names of which were not known: the water-fowls are wild geese, curlieus, hens, whistling ducks, which perch on trees, and some few others. The soil produces the gum tree, and various other kinds of wood, and coarse grass: the whole of the country is well watered, and ant hills abound in every part of it.

On the 4th the Captain ascended to the masthead, to look at some shoals which threatened great danger; and he saw several of them above the water. This day such a quantity of fish was catched, as allowed a dividend of two pounds to each man. During the six following days they struggled incessantly to sail safely past the shoals and breakers, by which they were every way surrounded; but, for the present, their attempts were vain. On the 10th they were between a head-land, and three islands, which had been discovered on the preceding day; and began to conceive hopes that they were out of danger; but this not proving the case, the head-land 451received the name of Cape Flattery. Some land was now seen from the mast-head, which was generally taken for the main; but the Captain judged it to be a cluster of islands; and during this diversity of opinion, the ship came to an anchor. The Captain now landed, and ascending a high point, took a survey of the sea coast, by which he was confirmed in his opinion, that what they had seen was not any part of the main, but a number of islands. On the point where he stood were seen the prints of human feet, in white sand of an exquisite fineness, and the spot was denominated Point Lookout.

Early on the 11th Mr. Banks and the Captain went to visit the largest of three islands, which had been seen from the point the preceding day. Having gained the summit of the highest hill, they beheld a reef of rocks, on which the sea broke in a frightful manner; but the thickness of the weather preventing a perfect view, they lodged under a bush during the night, in the hope of having a better prospect in the morning; but the weather then proved worse than it had been on the preceding day; yet, as they saw what had the appearance of a channel between the reefs, a person was sent to examine it, who found it very narrow. They now set out to return to the ship, after giving the name of Lizard Island to this place, 452from their having seen no animals but lizards on it.

On their return they landed on a low sandy island, which abounded in birds of various kinds, among which were eagles, a nest of the young of which they took, and called the place Eagle Island. On this spot they saw the nest of some bird, which was built with sticks on the ground, it was near three feet in height, and twenty-six round.

During the interval of their absence from the ship, the master had landed on several low islands, where he had seen great heaps of turtle-shells, and found the fins of them which the Indians had left hanging on the trees, so fresh, that they were dressed and eaten by the boat’s crew.

After a conversation held among the officers, it was their concurrent opinion, that it would be best to leave the coast, and stand out to sea: and in consequence of these sentiments they sailed on the 13th of August, 1770, and got through one of the channels in the reef; happy to be once more in an open sea, after having been surrounded by dreadful shoals and rocks for near three months. They had now sailed above a thousand miles, during all which run they had been obliged to keep sounding, without the intermission of a single minute; a circumstance which, it is supposed, never happened to any ship but the Endeavour.

453The islands from one of which the passage to the open sea had been observed, were called the Islands of Direction. They abound in turtle and other fish, and on the beach were found bamboos, cocoa nuts, pumice-stone, and the seeds of plants, which were supposed to be carried thither by the trade winds, as the plants themselves do not grow in the country.

Having anchored on the 14th, they steered a westerly course on the following day, to get sight of the land, that a passage between that land and New Guinea might not be missed, if there was any such passage. Early in the afternoon they had sight of land, which had the appearance of hilly islands, but it was judged to be a part of the main; and they saw breakers between the vessel and the land, in which was an opening, to get clear of which they set all their sails, and stood to the northward till midnight, and then went on a southward tack for about two miles, when the breeze died away to a dead calm. When day-light came on they saw a dreadful surf break at a vast height within a mile of the ship, towards which the rolling waves carried her with great rapidity. Thus distressed, the boats were sent a-head to tow, and the head of the vessel was brought about, but not till she was within one hundred yards of the rock, between which and her there was nothing left but the chasm, made by the last wave which had washed her side, and which had risen and 454broke to a wonderful height on the rock:⁠—but, in the moment they expected instant destruction, a breeze, hardly discernible, aided the boats in getting the vessel in an oblique direction from the rock. The hopes however, afforded by this providential circumference, were destroyed by a perfect calm which succeeded in a few minutes; yet the breeze once more returned, before they had lost the little ground which had been gained.

At this time a small opening was seen in the reef, and a young officer being sent to examine it, found that its breadth did not much exceed the length of the ship, but that there was smooth water on the other side of the rocks. Animated by the hope of preserving life, they now attempted to pass the opening; but this was impossible; for it having become high water in the interim, the ebb tide rushed through it with amazing impetuosity, carrying the ship about a quarter of a mile from the reef, and she soon reached the distance of near two miles, by the help of the boats. When the ebb tide was spent, the tide of flood again drove the vessel very near the rocks, so that their prospect of destruction was renewed, when they discovered another opening, and a light breeze springing up, they entered it, and were driven through it with a rapidity that prevented the ship from striking against either side of the channel. The ship now came to an anchor, and her crew were 455grateful for having regained a station, which they had been very lately most anxious to quit.

The name of Providential Channel was given to the opening through which the ship had thus escaped the most imminent dangers. A high promontory on the main land in sight, was denominated Cape Weymouth, and a bay near it Weymouth Bay. This day the boats went out to fish, and met with great success, particularly in catching cockles, some of which were of such an amazing size, as to require the strength of two men to move them. Mr. Banks likewise succeeded in his search for rare shells, and different kinds of coral.

On the 18th they discovered several small islands, which were called Forbes’s Islands, and had sight of a high point of land on the main, which was named the Bolt Head. On the 19th they discovered several other small islands, the land of which was low, barren, and sandy. A point was seen, and called Cape Grenville, and a bay which took the name of Temple Bay. In the afternoon many other islands were seen, which were denominated Bird Isles, from their being frequented by numerous flocks of birds.

On the 20th many more small islands were seen, on one of which there were a few trees, and many Indian huts, supposed to have been erected by the natives of the main land, as temporary habitations during their visits to these 456islands. On the 21st they sailed through a channel, in which was a number of shoals; and gave the name of York Cape to a point of the main land which forms the side of the channel. A large bay is formed to the south of the cape, which was called Newcastle Bay, and in which are several little islands. On the north side of the cape the land is rather mountainous, but the low parts of the country abound with trees. The islands discovered in the morning of this day, were called York Isles. In the afternoon they anchored between some islands, and observed, that the channel now began to grow wider: they observed two distant points, between which no land could be seen, so that the hope of having at length explored a passage into the Indian sea began to animate every breast: but, to bring the matter nearer to a certainty, the Captain took a party, and being accompanied by Messrs. Solander and Banks, they landed on an island, on which they had seen a number of Indians, ten of whom were on a hill, one of them carrying a bow, and a bundle of arrows, the rest armed with lances; and round the necks of two of them hung strings of mother-of-pearl. Three of these Indians stood on the shore, as if to oppose the landing of the boat; but they retired before it reached the beach.

The Captain and his company now ascended a hill, from whence they had a view of near 457forty miles, in which space there was nothing that threatened to oppose their passage; so that the certainty of a channel seemed to be almost ascertained. Previous to their leaving the island, Captain Cook displayed the English colours, and took possession of all the eastern coast of the country, from the 38th degree of south-latitude, to the present spot, by the name of New South Wales, for his Sovereign the King of Great Britain; and three vollies of small arms being fired, and answered by an equal number from the Endeavour, the place received the name of Possession Island.

The next morning they saw three naked women collecting shell-fish on the beach; and weighing anchor, gave the name of Cape Cornwall to the extreme point of the largest island on the north-west side of the passage: some low islands near the middle of the channel receiving the name of Wallis’s Isles; soon after which the ship came to an anchor, and the long-boat was sent out to sound.

Towards evening they sailed again, and the Captain landed with Mr. Banks on a small island, which was frequented by immense numbers of birds, the majority of which being boobies, the place received the name of Booby Island. They were now advanced to the northern extremity of New Holland, and had the satisfaction of viewing the open sea to the westward. The north-east entrance of the passage 458is formed by the main land of New Holland, and by a number of islands which took the name of the Prince of Wales’s Islands, and which Captain Cook imagines may reach to New Guinea: these islands abound with trees and grass, and were known to be inhabited, from the smoke that was seen ascending in many places.

To the passage which they had sailed through, Captain Cook gave the name of Endeavour Streights; we shall now proceed to a more accurate description of the country they had discovered; with an account of its productions, and of the manners and language of its inhabitants.

New South Wales is a much larger country than any hitherto known, which is not deemed a continent, being larger than all Europe; which is proved by the Endeavour having coasted more than two thousand miles, even if her tract was reduced to a strait line. Northward of the latitude of thirty-three degrees, the country is hilly, but not mountainous; but to the southward of that latitude, it is mostly low and even ground. The hills in general are diversified by lawns and woods, and many of the vallies abound with herbage; though, on the whole, it cannot be deemed a fertile country. To the northward the grass is not so rich, nor the trees so high as in the southern parts; and almost every where, even the largest trees grow 459at a distance of not less than thirteen yards asunder. In all those places where the land forms a bay, the shore is covered with mangroves, which grow about a mile inland, in a stinking ground, which the spring tides always overflow. In some parts there are bogs, covered with thick grass, and there is plenty of underwood in the vallies: the soil in general seems unfit for cultivation, though there are many spots where the arts of tillage might be attended with success.

Salt creeks run in many directions through the country, which likewise abounds in springs and brooks of fresh water, but has no rivers of any considerable size; yet it is supposed to be upon the whole well watered, as the time when the ship was on the coast, was the driest season of the year. All parts of the country produce the gum tree, which yields a resin like the sanguis draconis.

There are palm-trees of three kinds, two of which are found only in the northern district. One of these produces nuts resembling chesnuts, the hulls of which being found near where the natives had made fires, it was supposed that they were eatable; but some of the seamen having eaten of them, were taken very ill: upon which they were given to the hogs, but two of these died in about a week, and it was a work of difficulty to recover the rest. The second sort of palm is much like the true cabbage tree 460of the West Indies, and yields a large cabbage of a tolerable flavour. The third sort, which abounds in the southward parts, produces a small cabbage of the most agreeable taste; and its nuts, which are fine food for hogs, grow in the greatest abundance. This country also produces a tree, on which grows a kind of purple apple, which tastes like a damascen, after keeping it a few days:⁠—a fig-tree, the fruit of which tastes very indifferently:⁠—and a tree, the fruit of which is flat on the sides like a cheese, but its colour is that of a plumb.

Among the plants there is one, the leaves of which are like those of the bulrush, which yields a bright yellow resin, exactly like gambouge, but it does not stain: this plant had a very agreeable smell, but it is not known to what uses it might be applied. There are two kinds of yams, one round, and covered with stringy fibres, and the other shaped like a radish; but both of them are pleasant to the taste: besides these, the country produces purslain, and a kind of wild parsley. A fruit of a bad taste was found, which resembled a pine-apple, and another, the kernel of which was soft, but it was otherwise like a cherry.

Besides the quadrupedes already mentioned, there is one, the belly of which is totally white, and the back brown, with white spots: it is much like a polecat, and the Indians call it Quoll.⁠—There are vast numbers of beautiful 461pigeons, many of which were shot by the seamen; and the other land-birds are eagles, hawks, cranes, herons, bustards, crows, quails, doves, parrots, paroquets, cockatoos, and some other birds of very elegant plumage.

The insects are few in number, among which the musquito and the ant are the chief. The ants are of four kinds. The first are perfectly green, and live on trees, in which they build curious nests, by bending down the leaves, and gluing them together with an animal juice: thousands of them joined to keep the leaf in its proper position, while many others were employed in the gluing them. Being disturbed in their work, the leaves, which are four or five inches in breadth, flew back with a force which was thought much superior to the united strength of these insects. Those who disturbed them paid for their curiosity, by being stung in a very severe manner.

The second kind of ants are quite black, and live in the inside of the branches of trees, after they have worked out the pith. Some of the branches being gathered, millions of these animals issued from every broken twig.

The third sort took up their lodging in the root of a plant that twines round the trunk of other trees. This root, which they hollowed for their purpose, was cut into great numbers of passages which ran across each other; yet the plant appeared not to have been injured. 462These were not more than half the size of the red ant of this country, but, upon being disturbed, they crawled over the body in thousands, and put their disturbers to the pain arising from exquisite tickling.

The fourth kind were like the white ants of the East Indies; and had one sort of nests, as big as an half peck loaf, hanging from the boughs of the trees, and composed of several minute parts of vegetables, stuck together by a glutinous matter, supposed to have been supplied from their own bodies. The cells had a communication with each other, and had openings which led to other nests on the same tree: they had likewise a hollow covered passage to another nest on the ground, at the root of a different tree from that on which the former nest was suspended. The ground nests are six feet in height, and almost as much in breadth; the outside being plaistered with clay of near two inches in thickness: these have a subterraneous passage to the roots of the trees near which they stand; from whence the ants ascend, by covered ways, up the trunk and branches. As these ground-built houses are proof against the invasion of the rain, it is supposed that the ants retire to them during the wet season.

The seas in these parts produce variety and plenty of fish, among which are mullets, sea-crayfish, and crabs. On the shoals are found the rock, pearl, and other oysters; and the most 463delicate green turtle, besides those enormous cockles which have been already mentioned. Alligators are found in the rivers and salt creeks.

This country does not appear to be inhabited by numbers any way proportioned to its great extent: not above thirty being ever seen together but once, which was when those of both sexes and all ages got together on a rock off Botany-bay, to view the ship. None of their villages consisted of more huts than would afford shelter for fourteen or fifteen men; and these were the largest numbers that ever assembled with a view to attack the English. No part of the country appeared to be cultivated; whence there must necessarily be fewer inhabitants inland, than on the sea coast.

The men are well made, of the middle size, and active in a high degree; but their voices are soft even to effeminacy. Their colour is the chocolate; but they were so covered with dirt, as to look almost as black as negroes. Their hair is naturally long and black, but they commonly crop it short; in some few instances it is slightly curled, but in common quite strait. It is always matted with dirt, yet wholly free from lice: their beards are thick and bushy, but kept short by singing. The women were seen only at a distance, as the men constantly left them behind when they crossed the river.

The chief ornament of these people is the bone that is thrust through the nose, which 464the sailors whimsically termed their spritsail yard: but besides this they wore necklaces formed of shells, a small cord tied twice or thrice round the arm between the elbow and the shoulder, and a string of plaited human hair round the waist. Some few of them had an ornament of shells hanging across the breast. Besides these ornaments, they painted their bodies and limbs white and red, in stripes of different dimensions; and they had a circle of white round each eye, and spots of it on the face. Their ears were bored, but they did not wear ear-rings.

These people accepted whatever was given them, but seemed to have no idea of making an adequate return; and they would not part with their ornaments for any thing that was offered in exchange. Their bodies were marked with scars, which they signified were in remembrance of the deceased.

Their huts were built with small rods, the two ends of which were fixed into the ground, so as to form the figure of an oven; they are covered with pieces of bark and palm-leaves. The door of this building, which is only high enough to sit upright in, is opposite to the fire-place; they sleep with their heels turned up towards their heads, and even in this posture the hut will not hold more than four people. In the northern parts, where the weather was warmer, one side of the houses was left open, and the 465other opposed to whatever wind might blow at the time: these huts were only built for temporary use, and left behind when they removed to other parts of the country; but if their stay was only for a night or two, they had no other protection from the weather than what the grass and bushes afforded. While the huts on the main land were turned from the wind, those on the islands were turned towards it; a kind of proof that they visit the islands in fine weather, and enjoy the refreshing breeze while they sleep.

These huts are furnished with a kind of bucket for fetching water, made of an oblong piece of bark tied up at each end with the twig of a tree; and this is the only furniture of the house. On their backs they have a kind of bag, of the size and form of a cabbage-net, in which they carry their fish-hooks and lines, the shells of which they make these hooks, the ornaments which they wear, some points of darts, and two or three bits of paint; and in this narrow compass lies all their riches.

They feed on the kanguroo, and on several kinds of birds, when they can catch them; they likewise eat yams, and various kinds of fruit; but the principal article of their subsistence is fish. They were frequently observed with the leaves of a tree in their mouths, but whether it had the qualities either of tobacco or betle could not be known; but it was observed not to discolour the teeth or lips.

466From the notches that were seen in great numbers of trees, for the purpose of climbing them, it was imagined that their method of taking the kanguroo, was by striking it with their lances as it passed under the tree. In these trees, likewise, it is probable, that they took birds while they were roosting, as they seemed too shy to be otherwise catched.

Their method of producing fire, and extending the flames of it is very singular: having wrought one end of a stick into an obtuse point, they place this point upon a piece of dry wood, and turning the upright stick very fast backward and forward between their hands, the fire is soon produced; nor is it encreased with less celerity:⁠—one of the natives was frequently observed to run along the sea coast, leaving fire in various places. The method taken to do this was as follows⁠—before he set off, he wrapped up a little spark of fire in dry grass, and the quickness of his motion soon fanning it into a flame, he then placed it on the ground, and putting a spark of it in another bit of grass, ran on again, and encreased the number of his fires at pleasure. These fires were supposed to be intended for the taking of the kanguroo, as that animal was so very shy of fire, that when forced by the dogs, it would not cross places which had been newly burnt, even when the fire was extinguished.

467The natives of New South Wales make use of spears or lances; but these are very differently constructed: those that were seen in the southern parts of the country had four prongs, pointed with bone, and barbed; and the points were rubbed with a hard kind of wax, the smoothness of which made an easier passage into what was struck by them. On the contrary, the lances in the northern parts have only one point: the shafts of them are of different lengths, from eight to fourteen feet, are made of the stalk of a plant not unlike a bulrush, and consist of several joints let into each other, and tied together. The points of these lances are sometimes made of fish-bones, and sometimes of a hard heavy wood: they are barbed with other pieces of wood or bone, so that when they have entered any depth into the body, they cannot be drawn out without tearing the flesh in a shocking manner, or leaving splinters behind them.

When the natives intend to wound at a considerable distance, they discharge this instrument with a throwing-stick; but if the object be near them, it is thrown from the hand only. The throwing-stick is a piece of smooth, hard, red wood, half an inch thick, two inches broad, and about three feet in length, having a cross piece near four inches long at one end, and a small knob at the other. A small hollow is made in the shaft of the lance, near the point, 468and in this hollow the knob is received; but, on being forced forward, it will easily slip from it. The lance being placed on this throwing-stick, the Indian holds it over his shoulder, shakes it, and then throws both lance and stick with his utmost power; but as the cross piece strikes the shoulder, the sudden jerk stops the stick, while the lance is driven forward with amazing rapidity, and is generally so well aimed, that a mark at the distance of fifty yards is more certainly struck with it, than by a bullet from a gun.

These people make use of shields, made of the bark of trees, of about eighteen inches broad, and three feet long. Many trees were seen from whence the bark had been taken, and others on which the shields were cut out, but not taken away.

In the northern parts of this coast, the canoes are formed by hollowing out the trunk of a tree; and it was conjectured, that this operation must have been performed by fire, as the natives did not appear to have any instrument proper for the purpose. The canoes are in length about fourteen feet, and so narrow that they would be frequently overset, but that they are provided with an outrigger. The natives row them with paddles, using both hands in that employment.

The canoes in the southern parts are formed only of a piece of bark four yards long, fastened 469together at each end, and the middle kept open by pieces of wood passing from side to side. In deep water these are rowed by paddles, of about a foot and a half in length, the rower having one in each hand; but in shallow water they are pushed forward by means of a long stick. As these vessels are extremely light, and draw very little water, the natives run them on the mud banks in search of shell-fish, some of which, it is probable, they broil and eat as soon as they are taken, as it was remarked, that in the center of these vessels there was usually a fire burning on a quantity of sea-weed.

The natives have no tools but a wooden mallet, a kind of wedge, and an adze, made of stone, with some pieces of coral and shells, which may possibly be applied to the purposes of cutting. They polish the points of their lances, and their throwing-sticks, with the leaves of a tree that appears to be the ficus riduola, or wild fig, which bites with a sharpness, almost equal to that of a rasp.

Four people is the greatest number that a canoe will contain; and when more than this number were to pass a river, three were landed out of the first freight, and one man went back for the rest.

That the natives of this country sometimes wage war with each other is evident, from their being possessed of shields and weapons; yet not a single wound was seen on any of their bodies: 470and, if they are neither destroyed in war, nor carried off by famine, it will be difficult to form a judgment by what means the number of the inhabitants are so reduced, as to subsist on the products of the country: after all, it will, perhaps, be best to attribute this circumstance to the wisdom of that Providence, which distributes all its blessings with the most unbounded goodness, and the most consummate wisdom.

End of the Third Volume.

Transcriber’s notes

New original cover art included with this ebook is granted to the public domain.

The illustrations have been moved to appropriate paragraph breaks.

The original text used the long s. This has been changed to the regular s.

Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.

Archaic and inconsistent spelling and hyphenation have been retained.

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