281

Paris to Turin and the Italian Riviera.

By Fontainebleau, Joigny, Dijon, Macon, Bourg, Ambérieux, Culoz, Aix-les-Bains, Chambery, Modane, and Mont Cenis. The continuation of this line southwards from Turin extends to Genoa by Alessandria (page 279).

Part First.—Paris to Modane, 431 miles. Time by the Rapide, 13 hrs. 36 min. Part Second.—Modane to Turin, 58½ miles. Time by Express, 3 hrs. 27 min.

Time-tables.—In England, see under “London to Turin” in the Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, which Company give through tickets. In Paris, start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon. At the bookstall buy one of their Time-tables, 40 c. The best resting-places are Dijon, Macon, and Chambery. For the whole route consult the Sketch Map on the fly-leaf. For the northern part, between Paris and Macon, see map, page 1; and from Macon to Turin, map, page 26.

PART I.—PARIS TO MODANE.

MODANE 431 PARIS. In front of the departure side of the Chemins de Fer de Lyon Station is the Grand Hôtel de l’Univers, and under it a Café Restaurant. A little farther off is Hôtel Jules César. Good restaurant also in the station. For the first 274 m. between Paris and Macon, see pages 1 to 26. At Morel junction the Vichy line separates from this one. At Montereau, 49½ m. from Paris (p. 10), the Express halts 4 min.; but not the Rapide. At La Roche (p. 14) both the Rapide and the Express halt 5 min. At Tonnerre (p. 17) they halt again 5 min. At Les Laumes (p. 19) the Express halts 5 min. At Dijon (p. 20) both halt 6 min. At Macon (p. 26) they halt 5 min. At Macon the Turin line separates from the Marseilles line, and goes 23 m. E. to Bourg, 297 m. from Paris. At Bourg, in the church of Brou, are sumptuous mausoleums. From Bourg a loop-line traverses a picturesque country by Nantua to Geneva, 97 m. W. (See map, p. 27; and for description, Black’s France, North half.) 5½ m. S.E. from Bourg the line crosses the Ain at the village of Pont-Ain, and afterwards arrives at Ambérieu, 316¼ m. S.E. from Paris, and 114¾ m. N.W. from Modane. At Ambérieu the Rapide halts 10 min., and the Express 15 min. Ambérieu, pop. 4000, is a pleasant town on the Albarine at the base of the Jura mountains, and connected by rail with Lyon, 32½ m. west. From Ambérieu another loop-line extends 11 m. S. through a mountainous country to Montallieu, pop. 2000, with important quarries, on the Fouron near its junction with the Rhône. Between Ambérieu and Culoz the rail passes through the last ramifications of the Jura 282 mountains. In approaching Culoz it winds round the S. base of Mt. Colombier, 4733 ft., ascended in 4 hrs. either from Culoz or Artemart. The view is admirable—on one side the Savoy Alps, with the lakes of Bourget, Annecy, and Geneva; while on the side of France it extends to Lyons and the mountains of Ardêche.

Lagnieu. Virieu le Grand. Culoz.

8 m. S. from Ambérieu and 3 m. N. from Montallieu is Lagnieu, pop. 3500, station for La Balme, pop. 1000, 3 m. S.W., on south side of Rhône. There is a cave here with great galleries and stalactites, and a lake 130 yards long, 8 yards wide, and 13 ft. deep. It is easily approached from Aix-les-Bains by the Lyons steamboats. Alight at the Salette station, 20 min. walk from the entrance into the grotto.

From Ambérieu the train ascends the valley of the Albarine, which, after St. Rambert-de-Joux, 7 m. S.E. from Ambérieu, becomes wild and imposing. At Tenay, Inn: Pittion, 4¼ m. farther, the train quits the Albarine and traverses a sequestered valley to

Virieu le Grand, 340 m. S.E. from Paris, pop. 1100. Junction with loop-line to Belley, 9½ m. S., pop. 5000; Inns: Rey; Camus, with important quarries of lithographic stones. 442½ m. from Paris and 19¼ m. N. from Aix-les-Bains is Artemart, with the falls of Cerveyrieu.

347½ m. S.E. from Paris, 14½ m. N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 83½ m. N. from Modane, is Culoz, on the Rhône, about ¾ m. E. from the station, 771 ft. above the sea, pop. 1200. Near the station are the inns *H. Folliet; H. Mémon. A great deal of carriage-changing takes place here. 41 m. N.E. is Geneva; see Black’s North France, and map p. 26. 4½ m. S. from Culoz and 10 m. N. from Aix-les-Bains is Châtillon, 700 ft. above the sea, on the N.E. extremity of Lake Bourget, 2 hrs. distant by row-boat from Aix. In the castle, 13th cent., commanding a charming view of the lake, Pope Celestin was born.

Lake Bourget is 700 ft. above the sea, 10 m. long, from 2 to 3 m. wide, and from 200 to 300 ft. deep. The W. side is bounded by the steep ridge of Mont Chat. Opposite to Aix is a depression, the Col du Mont Chat, 2070 ft., and immediately to the S. a bold craggy peak, La Dent du Chat, 5302 ft., ascended from the little village of Bordeaux in about 4 hrs., after a very fatiguing climb. One of the best points for a view over the lake and the surrounding country is the Revard, 5112 ft., one of the summits of the ridge Mont d’Azy, which bounds the E. side of the plain of Aix (see page 285). It is ascended from the village of Mouxy in about 4 hrs.

The best of the fish caught in the lake is the ombre-chevalier. The lavaret is peculiar to it. There are also trout, perch, pike, shad, carp, gudgeon, tench, and barbel.

283

Aix-les-Bains. Hotels.

PARIS
MODANE 362 69 AIX-LES-BAINS, 850 ft. above the sea, 1½ m. from Lake Bourget, pop. 6000. The Casino is a handsome building, with park of its own extending to the railway station. First-class hotels—their pension is from 12 to 20 frs., but it is necessary to arrange the price at the commencement. On each side of the Casino are the *H. Aix, with garden, and the Univers. Opposite are the H. de la Galerie and the Nord. Then follow the Hotels: *Europe; *Venat, with large garden; and opposite, at the end of R. du Casino, the H. Genève. Second-class houses: in the parallel street, the R. Genève, behind the R. du Casino, are the H. Durand; *Gaillard; in the Place Centrale the H. Poste. Opposite the H. Poste is the office whence the omnibuses start for the lake and the Lyons steamboats, and for Marlioz. Up by the side of the Bath-house is the H. de l’Etablissement. In front, the H. de l’Arc Romain. To the left, in the Rue des Écoles, is a small clean family house, the H. Germain. A little beyond is the H. Châteaux-Durrieux. Below the last, the H. Folliet and Italie. The pension price in the above second-class houses varies from 7 to 11 frs. On road to station, the H. des Bergues.

On an eminence overlooking the park is the *Splendide Hôtel, a really splendid first-class house. Below it is the H. Beau-Site, also a new but a smaller first-class house.

The Port is nearly 2 m. from Aix by the R. de Genève, and then to the left. At the pier is the inn Beau-Rivage, “Poissons frais.”

Abundance of furnished lodgings. English chapel, Rue du Temple, behind the H. Venat. Presbyterian chapel in the park.

Aix-les-Bains: Cabs.

Cabs or Fiacres.—One-horse cab—3 frs. for the first hour; every succeeding hour, 2 frs.; per day, 20 frs. Two-horse cab—for first hour, 4 frs.; every succeeding hour, 3½ frs.; per day, 20 frs. Riding horses—two hours, 4 frs. Donkeys—one hour, 1 fr.; half-day, 4 frs.

The bathing establishment is a very large edifice, especially fitted up for the external application of the water, very little being drunk. Mineral water flows from the fountain in front of the building. Behind the establishment are the caverns whence the springs issue. To visit, ½ fr. There are three different springs, their temperatures being 112°, 114°, and 115° Fahrenheit, and their contents carbonates of lime, magnesia, and iron, sulphate of soda, and some phosphates. Ordinary bath with linen, 1½ fr. Opposite the establishment is a Roman arch, 3d cent., with the inscription “Lucius Pompeius, Campanus, Vius fecit.” Behind the arch is the chateau of the Marquis of Aix, now occupied by the Hôtel de Ville and the post and telegraph offices. A handsome 284 stone stair of fifty-eight steps, under a quadripartite roof on round columns, leads up to the various offices. At the top is the museum. On the ground-floor, just beyond the foot of the stair, a door opens into what is called the Temple of Diana, a large rectangular hall of coarse masonry, recently restored. Adjoining are the Hotel de l’Arc Romain, 9-12 frs., the parish church, and the park. The waters used for drinking are the cold sulphur springs, situated a little way out of town.

Aix-les-Bains: Springs. Excursions.

The most powerful and peculiar is the spring at Challes, 900 ft. above the sea, and 45 min. distant by omnibus from Chambery. Hotels: Château de Challes; Terrason; Ferret. It, like the others, is used for indigestion and liver complaints, but especially for laryngeal affections.

Nearly a mile from Aix by the Chambery road is the Marlioz mineral water establishment, with hotel, furnished apartments, and villas, all within a large park. The water is cold, sulphurous, and alkaline, with bromine and iodine, and costs 10 c. the glass. About 20 min. walk from the town by the Geneva road, near the village of St. Simon, is the Raphy spring, frequently taken at meal-time and prescribed in certain gastric diseases, dyspepsia, and nervous disorders of the stomach.

Excursions from Aix-les-Bains.—The steamer on certain days makes the tour of the lake, stopping at the principal places, of which the chief is the Abbey of Hautecombe; fare there and back, with small boat and two men, 9 frs. To Bordeaux and back, 5 frs.; Bonport, 4 frs.; Châtillon, 14 frs. Arrange price beforehand. No boat permitted to carry more than six passengers. An hour on shore allowed. Drive round the lake—one horse, 11 frs.; two horses, 15 frs.

The Abbey of Hautecombe was founded in the 12th cent., but rebuilt in 1745. The church, containing 300 statues and many frescoes, is 215 ft. long, the transept 85 ft., and the height of the roof 34 ft. The interior, as well as most of the mausoleums, is of a soft white fine-grained magnesian limestone, from the quarries of Seyssel, near Culoz. The best of the statues are those of Charles Felix, King of Sardinia (died 1821), and of Marie Christine, his spouse (died 1849), on the right and left hands of the nave at the entrance. They are of Carrara marble. In the chapel of Notre Dame de Compassion, in the right-hand transept, is another beautiful group in Carrara marble; in the left transept is a wood figure of St. Joseph, well executed.

About half a mile from the convent by a road following the shore of the lake is an intermittent fountain, very irregular in its action. To reach it continue the road till arriving at a clump of chestnut and horse-chestnut trees, some having stone seats round the trunks. The 285 fountain is in the corner under the fourth tree. Near Hautecombe are the village and castle of Bordeaux, founded in the 9th cent., over which rises the Dent du Mont Chat (see p. 282).

Other Excursions.—To the S.W. the Colline de Tresserve, 1109 ft., good views, chestnut trees, and the castle of Bonport. To the S.E. the Roche du Roi, with quarries, which were worked by the Romans. The Rocher de St. Victor, by the chestnut forest of Mouxy; there and back, 5 hours. The mountains of the Grand-Revard and the Cluse, 5154 ft., by mule-path; there and back, 6 hours. To the N. the cascade of Gresy, 45 minutes, 3 m. Gresy, with its keep, 12th cent. 5 m., the defile of the Combes and the Prime rocks. To the N.N.W. the Montagne de Gigot, 2680 and 2762 ft.

Grotto of Banges. Le Châtelard.

Aix to the Grotto of Banges, by Gresy and Cusy.— Seat in car there and back, 5 frs. About 3 m. from Aix is Gresy, with its pretty waterfall. Beyond the village the road ascends by the stream Sierroz to an undulating plain, on which is Cusy, 3½ hours from Aix. To the N., on a rock rising from the Chéran, are the extensive ruins of a castle. On the opposite bank are seen the hamlet of Aiguebellette and the castle of St. Jacques, and, rising abruptly from the valley, three singular obelisks of rock. 2 hours from Cusy the Chéran is crossed by the Pont de Banges, and not far from this bridge, where the road is hemmed in between the rocks and the stream, is the entrance to the Grotte de Banges, containing a lake, 216 ft. below the level of the entrance, approached by a gallery 270 yards long, hung with stalactites.

This road may be continued to Le Châtelard, 1¾ hour from the bridge, 2500 ft. above the sea; Inns: Des Beauges; De la Poste; pop. 950. This is the capital of the “Pays des Beauges,” occupying a plateau 13 m. long and 8 m. wide, traversed from S.E. to N.W. by the Chéran, and surrounded by steep rocks. Cheese-making, the rearing of cattle, and the manufacture of articles in wood form the industries of the inhabitants, of whom there are 10,000. Châtelard, in its social and geographical position, resembles Le Beage (p. 84).

The road from Aix to Chambery is through the broad valley which separates the mountains of the Grande Chartreuse from those of the Beauges. Belonging to the former are Mont Grelle, 4649 ft., to the S.W., and Mont Granier, 6348 ft, due S.; while to the N.E. is the Dent de Nivolet, 4597 ft, an advanced bastion of the Beauges.

At Aix-les-Bains, junction with branch to Annecy, 26 m. N., whence a diligence starts daily for Geneva, 27½ m. farther N. by Brogny, Cruseilles, and St. Julien (see map, p. 27).

286

Aix-les-Bains to Geneva by Annecy and Annemasse, by rail.

21½ m. by rail N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 3½ m. from Annecy, is Lovagny, the station to alight at to visit the “Galeries des Gorges” of the torrent Fier, about 10 minutes distant. From the station take the road to the left, cross a bridge, and walk on to the châlet, where refreshments are sold, and tickets, 1 fr. each, to visit the gorge, which is of the same nature, though much superior, to the galleries of Pfäffers. The gallery, or rather balcony, is 1162 ft. long, and on an average 72 ft. above the torrent. It rests on iron brackets driven into the face of vertical cliffs 310 ft. high, and on an average 8 ft. apart.

3½ m. farther by rail is

Annecy, pop. 11,000. Hotels: Angleterre, opposite the post office; Verdun, at the head of the town, near the public gardens and the lake, and not far from the steamboat-pier; Aigle; Savoie.

The steamboat sails from the side of the public gardens opposite the Convent of St. Joseph. It makes the tour of the lake three times daily. Diligence daily to Bonneville, 23 m. N., passing the villages of Plot and La Roche; also to Albertville, 28 m. N., on the road to Italy by the Little St. Bernard (see page 320).

This ancient town, with narrow arcaded streets, is situated on the north-west end of Lake Annecy. The two most prominent buildings in Annecy, as seen from the lake, are the Barracks, and the Castle of Tresun, in which St. François de Sales, the founder of the Order of the Visitation, was born August 21, 1567. Opposite the steamboat-pier is another prominent edifice, the Church and Convent of St. Joseph, both modern, but containing, in the garden behind, the first chapel erected by St. Francis, dating from 1610. The house Madame Chantale, his friend, inhabited adjoins this chapel.

The mortal remains of St. Francis are in a shrine above the high altar in the Church of the Visitation, at the western side of the Rue Royale. The house in which he resided is in No. 18 Rue St. Claire, entrance at the left-hand corner within the court. The house in which Madame de Warrens first received Rousseau stood in the parallel street, behind the Rue de l’Évêché, on the site of that house next the Episcopal palace, with railings in front. The best promenade is the garden around the Hôtel de Ville at the head of the lake. It contains a statue by Marochetti of the great French chemist, Claude Louis Berthollet, born at Talloires in 1748.

The Lake of Annecy is 9 m. long, 2 broad, and 1455 ft. above the sea-level. It is surrounded by vine-clad and wooded mountains, of which the highest is La Tournette, on the eastern shore, 6260 ft. above the lake. To ascend it land at the village of Talloires, where there are a comfortable inn, the Hôtel de l’Abbaye, and guides.

Near the shore of the lake, on the side of a hill about 2 m. east from Annecy, is the house in which Eugene Sué spent the last years of his life. It is one-storied, with garret-windows, and behind a small square tower. On the morning of August 1, 1857, he took his 287 last walk on the hill, returning from which fatigued he went to bed, and died two days afterwards. The remains of Rousseau’s house are seen a little farther south, above the village of Veyrier.

Leschaux. Cruseilles

South from Veyrier, also on the lake, is the village of Menthon, the birthplace of St. Bernard, the founder, in the 10th cent., of the hospices of the Great and the Little St. Bernard. He is buried on the right-hand side of the choir in the cathedral of Lausanne. At the south extremity of the lake is the village of Doussard, at the entrance into the dark gorge of the Combe Noire. Here a coach awaits passengers for Faverges and Albertville, 18 miles south from Doussard. In this neighbourhood the best mountain to ascend for the view is Semnoz, 4148 ft. above the lake. The ascent is made from the straggling village of Leschaux, 1590 ft. above the lake, 10 m. S. from Annecy, and 14 m. N.E. from Aix-les-Bains. Donkeys can be hired at the village. The ascent takes about 2 hrs. On the top is a comfortable inn. Duingt, at the S.W. end, is the most picturesquely situated village on the lake. (See map of Mt. Cenis, p. 291.)

3 m. N. from Annecy and 24 m. S. from Geneva is the village of Brogny, where, in 1342, Jean Allarmet the swineherd was born, who became successively Bishop of Geneva, Viviers, and Ostia, Archbishop of Arles, and then a Cardinal. From Brogny the road passes the Pont de la Caille, 18 m. from Geneva, a small village near the suspension bridge, 212 yds. long, across Les Usses, and 665 ft. above the bed of the torrent. Higher up, in a ravine, are the baths of Caille.

16½ m. from Geneva is Cruseilles, pop. 2000, and 2576 ft. above the sea. The road from Cruseilles passes over the top of Mont Zion, 2586 ft., and then descends to Chable. 10 m. farther is St. Julien, 1535 ft., pop. 2500. French custom-house station, 6½ m. from Geneva.

Chambery.

PARIS
MODANE 370¾ 60¼ CHAMBERY, pop. 20,000, and 815 ft. above the sea. Passengers arriving late should spend the night at Chambery, and next morning proceed to Turin. Hotels.—Princes, in the Rue de Boigne, near the fountain. France, on the Quai Nezin. In the Rue d’Italie, the Poste and Europe, near the theatre. In the Rue de la Banque is the Banque; and opposite it is the Temple Protestant.

Chambery is situated in a plain surrounded by high mountains. The first object that strikes the stranger on arriving from the station is the monumental fountain to General Boigne in the Boulevard du Theatre, opposite the termination of the principal street, the Rue de Boigne. It consists of four bronze elephants supporting a column crowned with a statue of the General. At the other extremity of the Rue de Boigne is the Château, formerly the residence of the Dukes of Savoy, built in 1230. The entrance is either by the stair in front or by the road round from behind, which leads also to the Botanic Gardens. Within the precincts of the château is the Préfecture, having 288 attached to it one of the old massive round towers, ascended by a most handsome staircase of 160 low broad steps to within a short distance of the top, attained by 36 more steps in two short flights. In the stair is the entrance to the Museum, chiefly archæological. The Natural History Museum is in the Botanic Garden. The view from the top of the tower is very pleasing, and overlooks the whole of the town. Fee, ½ fr. Opposite the tower is the Chapel of the Dukes of Savoy, 14th cent. Fee, ½ fr. The three tall windows are filled with beautiful old glass. The roof is covered with stone groining, with cleverly-executed arabesque painting between the nervures. The roof of the cathedral is similarly painted, but on a blue ground. It is situated near the Rue de Boigne, and was built in the 14th, 15th, and 16th cents.

Chambery: Church of Lemenc. J. J. Rousseau.

The Rue de Bourgogne, the second street to the right up the Rue de Boigne, leads past the Hôtel de Ville and the post office to the Palais de Justice, with the Jardin Public behind. In front of the Palais is a bronze statue of the jurist, Antoine Favre, who died 1624. On a hill on the other or eastern side of the railway are the Convent de la Visitation and the Church of Lemenc. The upper church of Lemenc is of the 13th or 14th cent., but the under church or crypt is of the 7th cent. In the centre of the crypt is a curious baptistery, six feet in diameter, under a peristyle. Beside it is an Entombment. In the upper Church are the mausoleum of General Boigne and the relics of Saint Concors, an Irish archbishop from Armagh, who died here 600 years ago. His relics are said to have the power of working miracles on children. In the adjoining cemetery, close to a small chapel, is the grave of Madame de Warrens.

Excursions.—The house which Jean Jacques Rousseau inhabited is on the height called the Charmettes, 395 ft. above and 2 m. from Chambery by a pleasant road shaded with walnut and plane trees. It is a mere cottage. The room to the right on entering was the dining-room. It contains in a drawer his watch, opposite the window his bookcase, and hanging on the walls, facing each other, the portraits of himself and of Madame de Warrens. The next room was their sitting-room; here are his card-table and mirror. The room above was madame’s bedroom, and the one over the dining-room Rousseau’s. From the garden the view extends to the Dent de Nivolet, 4597 ft., ascended from Chambery in between 5 and 6 hrs.; guide advisable. View not equal to that from the Dent du Chat (p. 282). The pretty walk to the Bout du Monde, at the foot of the Dent de Nivolet, by the bank of the Laisse and the gorge of the Doria may be made in little more than an hour. Omnibus in 45 min. to the cold sulphurous iodo-bromuride springs of Challes (p. 284).

289

PARIS
MODANE 376 55 LES MARCHES, a straggling village at the foot of a hill crowned by the chapel and image of Notre Dame de Myans. To the S.W., 4 hrs. there and back, are the Abimes de Myans, lakes between conical hillocks, formed by a partial landslip of Mt. Granier.

PARIS
MODANE 378 53 MONTMÉLIAN, pop. 1200. Inn: Voyageurs. Junction with line to Grenoble, for which change carriages (p. 338).

St. Pierre d’Albigny. Aiguebelle.

PARIS
MODANE 358¼ 45¾ ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY, 971 ft. (map, p. 291), pop. 3300, 1½ m. from its station. Inns: At station: H. des Voyageurs. In town: Croix-Blanche; Soleil. Junction with line to Albertville, 14 m. N.E., whence diligences to Annecy, 28 m. N., passing close by Ugine, 1755 ft., and through Faverges; Inn: Poste. Diligence also to Moutiers and Bourg St. Maurice on the road to the Little St. Bernard, one of the easiest of the Alpine passes (see p. 321). From St. Pierre take the N. window of the carriage to have a proper view of the immense cones and pinnacles of calcareous rocks, which tower in many places almost vertically above each other. These lofty walls afford protection from the chilling blasts to the pretty villages, vineyards, orchards, and maize fields; which places only at a little distance from these mountains do not enjoy. Vineyards cease a little above St. Michel, 2400 ft., but patches with vines may be seen within 3 m. of La Praz. Up to La Praz the mountains are cultivated more or less in terraces. Higher up the valley of the Arc they are too steep and arid.

PARIS
MODANE 332 39 AIGUEBELLE, pop. 1100. H. de la Poste. Village close to station. Arch to Charles Felix. The valley now begins to widen.

PARIS
MODANE 409 22 LA CHAMBRE, pop. 800, on the confluence of the Bugion and the Arc. Afterwards, to the right, is the valley of the Glandon.

PARIS
MODANE 414½ 16½ SAINT-JEAN DE MAURIENNE, pop. 3200. Inns: Europe; Cheval Blanc; Voyageurs. The cathedral, founded in the 15th cent., contains the mausoleum of Count Humbert, and some beautifully carved stalls. The arcades of the cloister are of alabaster, and were constructed in 1452. In the neighbourhood are the argentiferous mines of Rocheray and the saline thermal springs of Echaillon.

PARIS
MODANE 421 10 ST. MICHEL, pop. 3000. A village on the Arc, 2323 ft. above the sea-level, in a hollow at the foot of high mountains. Inn: Poste, near the post office. From St. Michel the Alpine region commences. The next station is La Praz, 6 m. from St. Michel, 3140 ft. above the sea.

290

Modane.

PARIS 431 MODANE STATION, 3445 ft. above the sea, and 727 m. from London, is really part of the village of Fourneaux. Modane is a little farther up, and the train passes through it on the way to the tunnel. Large refreshment-room at station. Opposite station—Inn: Hôtel International, where comfortable lodgings can be had, as well as carriages to visit the neighbourhood. The river Arc runs by the back of the house. There are also several restaurants. Luggage from France and Italy is examined here. In Italy every pound of registered luggage is charged. The scenery on both the French and Italian sides is beautiful, and the traveller ought to endeavour to pass through it during the day. The passage through the tunnel is done in 30 minutes. The air is at no part disagreeable. The entrance is 492 ft. above the station, and is reached by a winding railroad of 3-1/10 m., with a gradient of 2½ per cent. The highest part of the tunnel is 4380 ft. above the sea, and 5250 ft. below the summit of the ridge perforated.

From Modane the ascent is made of Mont Thabor, 7100 ft. higher than Modane, in 7½ hrs., by the Col de la Saume. Descent in 6 hrs., or a little over 5, by Bardonnecchia.

Lans-le-Bourg. Les Tavernettes.

Modane to Susa by Mont Cenis.

From Modane a carriage-road leads over the Pass of Mont Cenis to Susa, 40 m. distant by Villarodin, pop. 220. On the right bank of the Arc up the valley is Avrieux, where Charles the Bold was poisoned by his doctor. Near this are passed the forts Esseillon or Bramans, connected with the road by a steep winding path. 8¾ m. from Modane is Le Verney, where the road crosses the Arc; 10¾ m. Solliers; to the left, the valley of the Laisse or Doron; 16¾, Termignon, pop. 1080, and 4251 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the Laisse with the Arc, church with frescoes and a curious belfry; 18 m. Lans-le-Bourg, pop. 1500, consisting principally of inns, situated on the Arc, 4560 ft. above the sea, at the base of Mont Cenis. After crossing the Arc the ascent of the Pass is commenced. From Lans-le-Bourg to Susa are twenty-three houses of refuge. At the culminating point, 6882 ft. above the sea, is the inn Ramasse. The road now descends. 13 m. from Susa and 27 from Modane is Les Tavernettes, on a terrace 200 ft. above the lake, which is 1¼ m. long and 6234 ft. high, and contains good trout. This is one of the best headquarters in the Alps for a naturalist. 10 m. from Susa and 29½ m. from Modane is the Hospice of Mont Cenis, on the great plateau. 2 m. farther is the hamlet of La Grande Croix, 6069 ft., on the edge of the plateau, and whence the descent becomes more rapid. 4½ m. from Susa is the post-house of Molaret, and about 3 m. more, or 1¼ from Susa, the hamlet of Giaglione, with splendid views and rich vegetation (Susa, see page 291).

291

PART II.—MODANE TO TURIN.

See Map of Mont Cenis Railway.

TURIN 58½ MODANE. At Modane passengers enter the carriages of the Alta Italia Railway Company. The Italian time is 47 minutes in advance of the Paris time. The best time-table for Italy is the “Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate,” 1 fr.; also a smaller edition, 20 c., sold at all the railway stations. Waiting-room is Sala d’Aspetto. W.-C’s., Cessi, or Latrine, or Retirate. For ladies, Cessi per le donne. Smoking carriages, Pei fumatori. Non-smoking carriages, E vietato il fumare. Way out, Uscita. Way in, Entrata. Station, Stazione or Fermata.

MODANE
TURIN 5 53½ BARDONNECCHIA, 4127 ft., pop. 1600. At the station the Albergo della Stazione, and in the town the Hôtel de France. Situated near the Italian end of the tunnel, but in a more fertile country than that above Modane.

MODANE
TURIN 12 46½ OULX, pop. 2000, and 3514 ft. high. Inn: Dell’ Alpi Cozzié, at the station. At this pretty little village the road from Briançon, 17 m. S.W. by Mont Genèvre, joins the rail. The mountains, which extend from Monte Viso to Mont Cenis, were called the Alpes Cottiae, from King Cottius, who, according to Pliny, reigned over this region some years before the beginning of the Christian era (Pliny, Hist. Nat., lib. iii. cap. 20). Cottius erected the arch of Susa, and also constructed the road from that town over the Cottian Alps, by Oulx to Ebrodunum, now Embrun, on the Durance (see page 343).

MODANE
TURIN 21¾ 36¾ CHIOMONTE, 2526 ft. Beyond are some charming views.

MODANE
TURIN 25½ 33 MEANA, 1 m. from Susa, and 325 ft. above it. The train, having traversed beautiful chestnut woods, crosses the Dora and arrives at Bussoleno, 30½ m. from Modane, whence a loop-line of 5 m. extends to Susa, 1625 ft., pop. 5000. Hotels: France; Soleil. This, the ancient Segusium, the chief city of the Segusiani, who inhabited what is now called Savoy, is situated on the Dora, 1625 ft. above the sea. On the W. side of the town is the Roman Triumphal Arch erected about 8 B.C. in honour of Augustus. It is adorned with Corinthian columns and sculptured friezes on the entablature, but all are in a decayed condition. The cathedral, San Giusto, dates from the llth cent.

12 m. from Bussoleno and 16 from Turin is San Ambrogio station, at the foot of Monte Pirchiriano, 3150 ft. above the sea and 1500 above the plain. On the summit is the convent of S. Michele della Chiusa, founded by Ugone Marino in 966, and finished in 1000. It was partially repaired by Carlo Alberto and Vittorio Emanuele II. The government intend to establish a meteorological station here. A good mule-path leads to the top in about an hour, passing the village of S. Pietro, with a good inn, 2617 ft. above the sea.

opp. 293

292

TURIN,

pop. 264,000, on the Po and the Dora Riparia, 785 ft. above the sea, and 490 m. S.E. from Paris. The city derives its name from the tribe Taurini, who were first the opponents and then the allies of the Romans. When Hannibal descended from the Alps he destroyed the city, that he might have nothing to dread from its hostility. Having risen speedily from its ruins, it received within its walls the army of reserve of Julius Cæsar when he marched against the Gauls. Under the Lombards it was made the capital of a duchy, and became the favourite residence of Queen Theodolinda, who, in 602, built the church of S. Giovanni Battista, now the cathedral of Turin, reconstructed in 1498. Francis I. so damaged Turin in 1536 that its entire reconstruction became necessary. The streets are wide, clean, and well paved, and pass through spacious squares ornamented with statues and bordered by handsome arcades. The most aristocratic part of Turin is the western end of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. and the streets ramifying southwards from this.

Hotels.—The *Europa, 19 Piazza Castello. In the same square, and less expensive, is the H. di Londra. This piazza is in the neighbourhood of the principal sights, and is the terminus of the most important trams. The other first-class houses are: the *Torino, opposite the arrival side of the station. The *Liguria, 14 Piazza Bodoni, with one end to the Via Carlo Alberto. Their new house is at 9 Via Madama Cristina, near the English chapel and the Vaudois church. The Liguria is patronised by Messrs. Cook. The H. Feder, 8 Via S. Francesco di Paolo. At 31 and 29 Via Roma, the Angleterre; and the Trombetta. The Albergo Centrale, Via delle Finanze; Bonne Femme (Buona Fama), Via Barbaroux. Less expensive: H. *Suisse; H. Bologna, both opposite arrival side of station; *France et Concorde, Via dell’ Accademia Albertina, with one side to the Via di Po; Albergo del Campo di Marte, 40 Via della Providencia; the Dogana Vecchia, 4 Via Corte d’Appello; Albergo del Gran Mogol, 41 Via Lagrange.

Cabs.—One horse, from 6 A.M. till midnight, the course, 1 fr. First half-hour, 1 fr. First hour, 1½ fr. Each successive half-hour, 75 c. The course from midnight to 6 A.M., 1¼ fr. From the central station to any part of the town, 1¼ fr. Trunks, 20 c. each. Cabs with 2 horses, ½ fr. additional. Porters, for carrying each portmanteau from the station to a cab, 2 sous. Each small article, either to cab or to the railway carriage, 1 sou.

Horse-trams traverse Turin in every direction; while the steam-trams 293 run from the city to the towns and villages not only within but beyond the suburbs. The fare of the horse-trams is universally 2 sous; that of the steam-trams from 12 sous to 3 frs. 18 sous. In the horse-trams no more than four may occupy one seat.

Turin: Stations.

Stations.—The most important is the Central Station, a well-situated and well-arranged and spacious edifice. On a tablet on the departure side is an inscription to the honour of George and Robert Stephenson. Parallel to the station is the wide and handsome Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which traverses the city from east to west, having at the eastern end the Po and the Giardino Pubblico, and at the western the model prison, the Carcere giudiziario, the artillery barracks, and the cattle-market. In front of the station is a bronze statue of Massimo d’Azeglio, a poet and painter, who died in 1866, one of those who helped to throw off the yoke of Rome. Behind the statue is the garden or Piazza Carlo Felice, and the straight street, the Via Roma, extending to the Piazza Castello, by the Piazza S. Carlo, with, in the centre, a bronze equestrian statue, modelled by Marochetti in 1838, of Emanuele Filiberto, Duke of Savoy, and son of Carlo III. il Buono. He died in 1580. The attitude is rather theatrical. The station for Rivoli, at the west end of the Piazza dello Statuto, communicates with the P. Castello by the Via Garibaldi. The Cirié Lanzo station is on the Dora, N. side of plan, at the Ponte-Mosca. Opposite the Rivoli station, in the Piazza dello Statuto, is a monument to the engineers of Mt. Cenis tunnel, in the shape of a pyramid, 60 ft. high, composed of huge blocks of unhewn granite, up which scramble discomfited, colossal, naked Titans in white marble. On the pinnacle stands the Genius of Science, of a slighter make, and on a tablet the names of the engineers, Sommeiller, Gratoni, and Grandi.

Turin: Post Office. Booksellers.

Post and telegraph offices are in the Piazza Carlo Alberto, by the side of the Palazzo Carignano (p. 297). Stamps are sold at all the tobacco shops. This piazza is close to the P. Castello, and connected with the Via di Po by a lofty arcade, covered with glass, and bordered on both sides with well-stocked shops.

Booksellers.—For maps of Italy, Carlo Crespi, 2 Via Lagrange. For guide-books, Loescher and Brero, both in the Via di Po.

Money-changers in the central railway station and in the principal streets. In the main streets are also elegant Cafés, where the charge in all of them for a good cup of coffee with a piece of ice is 6 sous. The same price for an excellent ice cream heaped up in a glass.

Theatres.—See list on plan. A short way east from the central 294 station, in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is the Vaudois church, built in 1853. Adjoining are the Vaudois schools, and behind, at 15 Via Pio Quinto, the Anglican chapel. Near the chapel is the synagogue, a handsome edifice with square towers crowned with balloon-like cupolas.

Turin: Sights.

Sights.—The museums and picture gallery (Pinacoteca) in the “Accademia delle Scienze,” with one side to the Piazza Carignano and another to the Via dell’ Accademia delle Scienze. Nearly opposite is the Palazzo Carignano, containing the zoological and mineralogical collections. The white marble statue in front represents the philosopher, Vincenzo Gioberti, born 5th April 1801 in the house opposite, 5 Via Lagrange, where a white marble tablet states: “II Conte Camillo di Cavour naque in questa casa, addi 10 Agosto 1810. E vi mori il 6 Giugno 1861.” The armoury, enter by door headed “Reale Armeria Antica” under corridor, 13 Piazza Castello; adjoining is the Royal Palace. On the other side of the palace is the cathedral, San Giovanni. A walk down the Via di Po. Several drives in the horsetrams. All the above places are near each other, around the Piazza Castello. The only one that is at a little distance is the Museo Civico, up the side street, V. Rossini, from the Via di Po. The Superga, by steam tram from the Piazza Castello.

Turin: Palazzo dell’ Accademia. Museum of Antiquities.

The Museum of Antiquities and the Picture Gallery.

The Palazzo dell’ Accademia delle Scienze, designed by Guarini, was built in 1678 as a college for the sons of noblemen. It is a vast earthy-coloured brick edifice, of which the ornaments, mouldings, and cornices are also of dingy brick. On the ground-floor are the more massive, and in the first story the smaller antiquities. In the second story is the picture gallery, containing about 800 paintings in fifteen rooms. Open daily from 9 to 4, 1 fr. On Sundays and feast-days free, when it is open from 12 to 4. The large antiquities are contained in two halls. Hall 1. Left. In the centre, against the wall, under an inscription in honour of the Egyptologist Champollion, is the gem of the collection, a black basalt statue of Sesostris, Rameses II., 1388 B.C. On his right, in rose-coloured granite, is the colossal statue of Amenophis II., 1565 B.C., and on his left a small black basalt statue of Amenophis II., the god Ptah. Opposite are three figures in a sitting posture, representing the Egyptian Trinity, Osiris, Horus, and Isis. At the head of this hall is the colossal red sandstone statue of Seti II., in whose reign the exodus of the Israelites took place. From 295 this a room ramifies at right angles, containing Greek and Roman statues, busts, friezes, vases, etc.

Parallel to Hall 1 is Hall 2. At the head of this hall, in a sitting posture, is the black basalt statue of Thothmes III., 1591 B.C., who was one of the most powerful of the Pharaohs.

Upstairs, first floor, are the smaller antiquities, contained in three large halls and several rooms. Near the centre of the first hall, left, is the oldest of all the articles in the museum, the pedestal of a table covered with hieroglyphics, supposed to have been made about 2654 B.C. A little farther down, in the centre of the hall, under a glass case, No. 13, is the Tabula Isiaca, a bronze tablet, 4 ft. long by 2 ft. 2 in. wide, inlaid with hieroglyphics in silver, made at Rome in the reign of Hadrian. Exactly opposite this tablet commences the passage that leads to the smaller rooms. In the first room, left, in the corner, is a colossal bust of Juno, hollowed, that the priest might the more easily work the oracle. In the first room, right, is a mosaic pavement, found at Stampacci in Sardinia. The rooms contain besides Phoenician terracotta figures, Etruscan vases, statuettes, urns, reliefs, ancient iron ornaments, lamps, etc.

The Centre Hall contains idols, jewellery, amulets, sarcophagi, mummies, Egyptian heads with the hair on, and bricks made by the Israelites.

In the Third Hall are the Papyri, of which the most important are: No. 4, near centre, against left wall, in second row, The Book of the Dead, 35 ft. long and 8 in. wide, illustrated with plain vignettes. Opposite, in centre of hall, is 126, fragments of the famous annals of Manetho, which contained a list of more than 300 kings of Egypt down to the 19th dynasty.

Turin: Picture Gallery.

In the second story is the Picture Gallery. All the paintings are labelled. In Room 1 are portraits of princes of the house of Savoy, and battles in which they were engaged. Room 2. In this room are excellent specimens of the Turin painter, Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 49, St. Peter and Donor; 52, Madonna and St. Elizabeth; 53, God; 54, Descent from Cross; 57, Joachim driven from the Temple. Rooms 3 and 4. Italian pictures, Massimo d’Azeglio, another Turin painter, 90, a Landscape. Room 5. Italian paintings of the 14th, 15th, and 16th cents.: Clovio, 127 bis, an Entombment, painted on silk; Bronzino, 127 and 128, Portraits of Eleonora da Toledo and her husband, Cosimo I. de Medici. Room 6. J. da Ponte (II Bassano), 148, Portrait; P. Caliari (Paolo Veronese), 157, Queen of Sheba presenting 296 gifts to Solomon; A. Carracci, 158, St. Peter; Caravaggio, 161, Musician; J. Robusti (Il Tintoretto), 162, The Trinity. Room 7. Guido Reni, 163, S. Giovanni; Spagnoletto, 174, St. Jerome. Room 8. Enamels and paintings on porcelain by Constantin of Geneva. Room 9. A small room entirely filled with fruit and flower pieces by Dutch artists. Between rooms 9 and 10 is a dark lobby, hung also with pictures. Room 10. Continuation of the Italian school, 16th, 17th, and 18th cents.: B. Strozzi, 232, Portrait of Prelate; 251, Homer singing his own Songs; Paolo Veronese, 234, Mary Magdalene at our Lord’s Feet; Guido Reni, 235, Apollo; 236, Cupids; G. Dughet (Poussin), 237, 238, Tivoli Waterfalls; G. F. Barbieri (Il Guercino), 239, 262, *S. Francesca Romana, and in next room, Return of Prodigal Son. Room 11. A. Canale (Il Canaletto), 257 bis, Ducal Palace, Venice; F. Albani, 260, 264, 271, and 274, The Four Elements; S. Ricci, 272, Hagar sent away; 275, Solomon burns the Idols; C. Dolce, 276, Head of Madonna; B. Bellotto, 283, 288, Royal Palace, Turin; Old Bridge across the Po. Room 12. Flemish and German school: Acken (Bosch), 309, an Adoration; G. Van Eyck, 313, St. Francis; Rogier Van des Weyden, 312, *Madonna; F. Franck, 335, Room with Ladies and Gentlemen; Van Dyck, 338, 351, The three Children of Charles I. of England; *The Princess Clara Eugenia of Spain; Rubens, 340, Sketch of his apotheosis of Henri IV. in the Uffici of Florence. Room 13. Containing the gems of the collection: A. Mantegna, 355, Virgin, Child, and Saints; L. Credi, 356, *Virgin and Child; G. F. Barbieri (Guercino), 357, *Virgin and Child; Hans Memling, 358, *The Seven Sorrows of the Woman Mary; Saenredam, 361, *Interior of a Protestant Church, the figures by A. Ostade; Van Dyck, 363, *Large equestrian portrait of the Principe Tommaso di Savoia; his finest work is **384, Holy Family; D. Teniers, 364, Tavern; G. Ferrari, 371, Jesus giving up the Ghost; Raphael, 373, *La Madonna della Tenda; Donatello, 375, Virgin and child in relief on marble; Sodoma, 376, *Death of Lucretia; P. Potter, 377, *Cattle grazing in a meadow; H. Holbein, 386, Portrait of Erasmus. Room 14. Dutch and German school: Picture by Jordaens; Sallaert, 398, Procession in Brussels; Floris, 410, Adoration; P. P. Rubens, 416, Resurrection of Lazarus; C. Vos, 417, Portraits of Snyders and his wife; Teniers (the younger), 423, Card Players; Schalcken, 458, Old Woman. Room 15. French school: C. Gélée (Claude Lorrain), 478, 483, Landscapes; I. Courtois (Bourguignon), 481, Cavalry Charge. Catalogues sold of the contents of the museums and picture gallery.

297

Palazzo Carignano. Royal Armoury.

Museum of Zoology and Mineralogy.

Opposite the Palazzo dell’ Accademia, but a little to the left, is the Palazzo Carignano, also by Guarini, and also of earthy-coloured brick; but the decorations are superior, more varied, and more pleasing than those of the Palazzo dell’ Accademia. In large gilt letters, on the façade fronting the Piazza Carignano and the statue of Gioberti, are the words, “Qui nacque Vittorio Emanuele II.” Within is a high and spacious court, surrounded by lofty halls, and at the east end, fronting the Piazza Carlo Alberto, with the beautiful bronze monument to him by Marochetti, cast in London, is the more pretentious stone façade, built in 1871, but not in harmony with the rest of the building. (See also p. 293.) In this palace, magnificently housed, are the zoological and mineralogical collections. Open daily, 1 fr. Sundays and feast-days free.

Royal Armoury.

No. 13 Palazzo Castello, open on feast-days from 11 to 3 free. On other days procure admission from the secretary. This collection is of great interest only to the inhabitants of northern Italy, as it is filled chiefly with relics of their kings, dukes, and wars. In the first room is “Favorito,” the favourite horse of the magnanimous Ré, Carlo Alberto. Above it, near the roof, are numerous tattered flags taken in battle. In the large hall are two rows of armed knights and foot-soldiers. At the head of this hall, in a glass case, numbered 301, is an embossed oval shield, inlaid with gilding, and surrounded by a fringe of massive gold thread. On five medallions are represented, in alto-relievo, scenes from the war of Marius against Jugurtha. It belongs to the school of Giulio Romano, was executed probably in the latter half of the 16th cent., and was presented to the university of Turin by the Princess Vittoria di Sassonia Hilburghausen. Among the relics are the sword worn by Napoleon at the battle of Marengo, the saddle of Charles V., and some beautifully inlaid body-armour of the Dukes of Savoy. The large door at the end of this hall opens into the “Medagliere del Ré,” containing 30,000 Greek, Roman and ancient coins and medals, including a complete series of those struck in the State of Sardinia; and also 5000 medallions, seals and stamps. In this same part is the Biblioteca del Ré, with 40,000 vols., 1800 MSS., numerous autographs, engravings and drawings by the great masters. To visit these special permission must be obtained. From the windows of the armoury is a view of the palace-gardens. 298 At the N.E. angle of the Piazza Castello is the Teatro Regio, considered the finest work of Benedetto Alfieri. It is seated for 2500, and is open only during carnival and on extraordinary occasions. Turin: Royal Palace. In the absence of the royal family the palace may be visited. It is a plain brick building, commenced in 1646, with the front to the Piazza Castello, plastered to imitate stone. Having passed the main entrance, turn to the left. At the end of this corridor is seen, through a glass door, the equestrian statue of Vittorio Amadeo I. (died 1675) in a niche at the foot of the grand staircase. The rider is in bronze, the horse in marble. Ascend the marble steps, then, to the right, two flights of narrow steps lead to the hall of the palace, where the servants will be found who show the palace. Fee, 1 fr.; party, 2 frs. After the guardroom succeeds a series of rooms with much gilding, inlaid floors, and rich furniture. The pictures are all modern, and of no great merit. The room called Maria Theresa’s contains some fine china vases.

Turin: The Cathedral.

The Cathedral.

Adjoining the western end of the palace is the Cathedral San Giovanni Battista. To the left of the altar is the pew of the royal family. Behind the altar, and approached by two staircases of 37 steps each, is the Cappella del Sudario (open till 9 A.M.), a circular chapel, separated from the church by a glass screen. It was built by Guarini in 1694, and is encrusted with the dark grayish-blue marble from Fabrosa, near Mondovi, which brings out in striking relief the pure white of the statues and the rich gilding of the ornaments, cornices, capitals, and eight-limbed stars which spangle the interior. Double monolith columns of the same dark marble, with bronze pedestals and capitals, support six arches ornamented with diaper-work on the soffits. Above them rise six smaller arches containing the windows, while the dome or cupola is composed of an intricate series of interlacing zigzag arched ribs rising from the second tier, and intermingled with loopholes, which throw light in such a manner upon the star at the summit as to give it the appearance of being suspended. The beautiful altar, lighted with gold and silver lamps, has two faces, so that two masses are said before it at the same time. The shrine on this altar is said to contain the shroud (Sudario) in which Joseph of Arimathea wrapped the body of our Lord when he laid Him in the tomb. Round the chapel are the beautiful white marble monuments of three kings of the house of Savoy—Em. Filiberto (ob. 1580), by Marchesi; Carlo Emanuele II. (ob. 1675), by Fraccaroli; and Amedeo VIII., first Duke of Savoy (ob. 299 1451), by Cacciatori. One prince, the Principe Tommaso (ob. 1656), by Gaggini. In a sitting posture is the lovely statue of Queen Maria Adelaide, consort of Vit. Em. II. (ob. 1855), by Revelli. The door behind the altar communicates with the upper corridors of the palace. Outside the palace gates is San Lorenzo, designed by Guarini, and finished in 1687. The interior is gorgeous, but it is chiefly distinguished for the boldness of its arches.

Turin: The Castello. Museo Civico.

The Castello.

The large brick building in the centre of the Piazza Castello was erected in the 13th century, and called the Castello till 1718, when it became the favourite residence of the widow of Carlo Emanuele II., Madama M. G. Battista, who built the stone façade, and in honour of whom it has ever since been called the Palazzo Madama. Before the seat of government was removed to Florence the senators assembled in the great hall of this palace. One of the towers is used as an observatory, and another part of the palace by the “Accademia reale di Medicina,” who here hold their meetings, and have also a museum of craniology.

Museo Civico.

Via Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 1, near the Via di Po. Open from 12 to 3, 1 fr. Sundays and feast-days free. First room, autographs and MSS. of celebrated Piedmontese. 2. Water-colours, representing landscapes and historical scenes in Piedmont. Under glass frame is a solid oblong chased silver vase, 3 ft. and some inches in its greater diameter, and 2 ft. 8 inches in its smaller. At each of the two long ends is a lion’s head with a ring in his mouth. Near this vase, and also under a glass frame, and also in solid silver, are two candelabra, a vase, and two flower-holders adorned with figures in relief. The first was presented in 1871 by the English Government, and the other by that of the United States to the Count Frederic Sclopis, President of the Geneva arbitration in the Alabama question, and given to this institution by his widow. None of them display much art; as for the English vase, it needs only a lid to turn it into a respectable soup-tureen.

The rooms from 4 to 11 contain modern oil-paintings, some very good, and all labelled. Down the centre are white marble statues; among the best are Eve and the Serpent by Fantacchiotti, and the Crucifixion of Eulalia by E. Franceschi. Second story.—Room 12, Embroidery; 13, Miniatures and illustrated MSS.; 14, Iron work; 15, Carving in wood and ivory—notice 947, Judgment of Solomon; 16, Glass and 300 majolica; 17, Italian porcelain; 18, Busts; 19, Small oil-paintings and uniform of Azeglio; *20, Italian painted glass from 1300; 21, Egyptian pottery; 22, Pottery and stone age.

Turin: Via di Po. University. Madre di Dio.

The Via di Po.

The finest of the streets is the Via di Po, which extends from the Piazza Castello to the great rectangular square, the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, on the bank of the Po; and as both of these spacious squares, as well as this magnificent street, are lined throughout with wide and lofty arcades, they form together an excellent and interesting walk in all weathers. The Via di Po is 768 yards long and 19½ wide, and the pavement within the arcade 6½ yards wide. Good shops are ranged on both sides of the street under the arcades. In the Via di Po is also the University, built in 1713 by Vittorio Amedeo II., but founded in 1404 by the Prince Lodovico di Acaia. It is attended by 2500 students, and directed by 70 professors. The Library, open every day from 9 to 4, contains 200,000 volumes and 3000 MSS. In the court are Roman bas-reliefs, inscriptions, and statues, ancient and modern. Between the Via di Po and the Piazza Carlo Emanuele ramifies the Via dell’ Accademia Albertina, containing at No. 6 the Accademia Albertina delle Belle Arti. Open daily. Apply to the custodi.

The Piazza Vittorio Emanuele is 394 yards long and 121½ wide. In front, on the other side of the Po, is a conspicuous church, the Gran Madre di Dio, built in 1818, in the style of the Pantheon at Rome, by Bansignori, to commemorate the return of Vittorio Emanuele I. to Turin after the fall of Napoleon. A little to the right on a hill (Il Monte) is a Capuchin convent, built towards the end of the 16th cent. The road up is very easy, and the view from the terrace admirable. Immediately above the Madre di Dio church is the palace, La Vigna della Regina, built by Prince Maurice of Savoy, which after his time was inhabited by one of the queens of Sardinia, from whom it acquired its present name, “The Queen’s Vineyard.” It is now a government school for the education of children of military men. Up the river, beyond the suspension bridge, is the Castello del Valentino, distinguished from a distance by its four pavilions with high-pitched roofs. It was built by the widow of Victor Amadeus I., daughter of Henri IV. of France, and is now used as a government school of civil engineering. It contains a good collection of minerals, the larger part of which, obtained from Sardinian provinces, are topographically arranged. The Botanical Garden belonging to the university is also here.

301

Turin: Monument to Cavour.

Monuments.

In the Piazza Carlo Emanuele II., a short way S. from Piazza Castello, is the monument to Camillo Cavour, by Dupré of Florence, for which he received £1200, contributed by the inhabitants of every part of Italy in 1872. The statues are in white marble, the tablets and friezes in bronze, and the pedestal in granite. The monument is tame and mystic. Cavour, in an upright position, holds in his hand a scroll bearing the words, “libera chiesa in libero stato.” (See p. 294.) The climate of Turin is more suitable for bronze than for marble statues. To the west is the Piazza S. Carlo, with a bronze monument to Emanuele Filiberto (see p. 293). Farther west, in the Piazza Solferino, is the remarkable, almost painful, bronze group representing Ferdinando di Savoia (brother of V. Emanuele II.) at the battle of Novara in 1848. When about to lead the charge on the Bicocca his horse fell, mortally wounded. The poor animal, on bended knees, with gaping mouth and outstretched neck, seems about to breathe its last in an agony of suffering.

A short way west from the Piazza Castello by the Via Palazzo di Citta is the Piazza del Palazzo di Citta, having on one side the Palazzo di Citta, or the Municipality buildings, designed by Lanfrachi, and erected in 1659. At the entrance to the Palazzo are the marble statues of the celebrated Prince Eugene and the Duke of Genoa, brother of King Victor Emanuel, and under the portico statues of Prince Thomas di Carignano and Victor Emanuel. In the centre of the square is a bronze group representing Count Verde (Amadeus VI.) over a fallen Saracen. Close to this square is the church of Corpus Domini, with the interior encrusted with beautiful marble, and ornamented with frescoes and gilding. From this the Via Milano leads towards the Piazza Em. Filiberto, passing by on the left S. Domenico, and on the right the Basilica. In S. Domenico, in the first chapel to the right of the altar, is a picture of the Virgin by Guercino.

Turin: La Consolata. Cemetery.

Near the Piazza Em. Filiberto, by the Via Giulio, is the church La Consolata, with an ugly square brick tower. It consists of three churches built at different periods. On the principal altar is a miracle-working image of the Virgin; while a great part of the adjoining walls is hung with pictures illustrating the cures and deliverances effected by it. Two lovely kneeling figures, in the most precious Carrara marble, looking towards the altar, represent respectively Maria Theresa, queen of Carlo Alberto, and Maria Adelaide, queen of Vit. Emanuele, 302 dressed in the same way as they used to be when they attended worship every Sunday in this chapel. They both died in 1855. In the square outside, on a granite column, is a statue of the Virgin, erected in fulfilment of a vow when the cholera raged in 1835.

In the Piazza Savoia, near the Piazza dello Statuto, is an obelisk 72 ft. high, erected in 1854 to commemorate the abolition of the ecclesiastical courts. On the four sides are the names of the towns which contributed to the monument.

Less than a mile from the Ponte delle Benne is the cemetery or Campo Santo of Turin. (See N.E. corner of plan.) It is badly kept and not worth visiting. The inner or new part is a little better.

A little to the W. of the P. Solferino, and parallel to it, is the citadel and the barracks of the Cernaia. In front of the entrance is the monument to Pietro Mico, who, to save the citadel from the enemy, sprang a mine at the cost of his own life.

Turin: La Superga.

La Superga.

Leave by the steam tram starting from the Piazza Castello; the time-table is in the waiting-room, where the tickets are also sold half an hour before starting. As the train can take only a limited number, the tickets are generally all taken in the first 10 minutes. The tram runs down the Via Po, crosses the Ponte Vit. Emanuele I., passes by the western end of the church, the “Great Mother of God,” and descends by the left side of the Po to the Cassale station, whence the ascent commences by the rope and locomotive railway constructed by Agudio, and opened in 1884. The ascent takes 20 minutes, the length is 3500 yards, the average inclination 13%, and the greatest 20%. At the Superga station are waiting-rooms, and a few feet below them a commodious restaurant. On arriving at the station ascend by the road, right hand, for the Superga. The walk down the mountain is very pleasant, and it is probable that the pedestrian will fall in with some tram when on the main road to Turin.

The Superga is situated 4½ m. N.E. from Turin, on a mountain 1420 ft. above the Po, or 2146 ft. above the sea, and cost £100,000. It was commenced by Vittorio Amedeo II. in 1717, and finished in 1731, to fulfil a vow made by him on 7th September 1706, for the victory over the French at the battle of Turin, when the house of Savoy regained the duchy. The architect was Filippo Juvara.

Enter by door at the north side of the building, where the men will be 303 found who conduct visitors over the church. Gratuity optional. The first hall shown contains small and indifferent portraits of all the popes. Then down 27 large marble steps to the crypt. At the foot is a white marble group, St. Michael overcoming Satan. None of the monuments are worthy the name of royal mausoleums. The best are: in centre, Carlo Alberto, 1779-1849; at right hand end, Carlo Emanuele III., 1701-1773; towards left, Duke Ferdinando de Genova, a colossal white marble statue; at left end, Vittorio Amedeo II., the founder, 1666-1732. In an adjoining vault children under seven are buried.

From this ascend by 357 steps from floor of church to the gallery outside the lantern. A door about 80 steps up opens into the gallery round the interior of the octagonal dome, whence the church is well seen. The top of the lantern is 229½ ft. above the pavement of the church.

Turin: Views. Lamprede. Wines.

The chief object for visiting the Superga is the splendid view from the outside gallery of the lantern. In one direction is the plain of Piedmont with the Po wandering across it; everywhere else the horizon is bounded by a vast chain of snowy Alps, with Monte Rosa on one side and Mont Blanc on the other.

Among the delicacies of Turin are the lamprede, thin eels from 5 to 8 inches long, caught in the Po. They are killed by being plunged into milk. The white truffles are also celebrated, and when cooked “à la Piedmontese” or “à la fonduta,” and taken with a bottle of Asti wine, make most enjoyable dishes. The vermouth of Turin is an agreeable aperitive, and is taken before sitting down to table. The best wines of Piedmont are the Caluzo, a white wine; the Barolo, a dryish red wine with a taste of the soil; the Barbera, a strong red wine; and the Nebrolo. The Gressini are double baked bread in strips 18 inches long and a quarter of an inch thick. In the Italian houses a handful of them is put down to each cover at the dinner-table. They are made at very many places besides Turin; even at Cannes on the Riviera. A great deal of maccheroni (macaroni) is consumed in Italy. In Turin are important silk mills.

Turin to Cuneo, 54¾ m. S., by Cavallermaggiore (see p. 153). Turin to Genoa, 103¼ m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, and Novi (see p. 279). Turin to Savona, 91¼ m. S.E., by Carmagnola, Bra, Carru, and Ceva (see p. 183, and map p. 27). Turin to Florence, 291 m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna, and Pistoja (see p. 309, and map p. 199).

304

THE VALLEES VAUDOISES, OR
THE VALLEYS OF THE WALDENSES.

(See accompanying Map.)

The Waldensian valleys are very beautiful, are drained by splendid trout-streams, and possess a rich variety of rare plants.

The chief town, Torre-Pèllice (formerly called Torre-Luserna) is 34¼ miles S.W. from Turin by rail, passing by Pinerolo, 23½ m. S.W. from Turin, and 10¾ m. N.E. from Torre-Pèllice. From Pinerolo a steam tram runs 12 m. N.W. up the valley of the Chisone to Perosa, the second Waldensian town in importance. Time, 1 hr. 30 min. The tram station is near the railway station.

Pinerolo is connected with Saluzzo by steam tram, 2 hrs. 20 min. S., 2 frs. 15 c. and 1 fr. 55 c., passing Osasco and Cavour. This tram station is at some distance from the Pinerolo railway station.

The Italian steam trams run on single lines laid on one side only of the highroads. Some towns they traverse, while others they merely skirt. They afford excellent opportunities for seeing the country, but run neither so quickly nor so smoothly as the railway trains.

Rail between Cuneo and Mondoví, 11½ m. E. and 58 m. S. by rail from Turin. Mondoví, pop. 17,000, on the Ellero; Inn: Tré Limoni d’Oro. On one side of the Ellero is the railway station, and on the other are the inn and town, built on the lower slopes of a wooded hill rising from the river. The Via San Agostino contains the best shops. On the top of the hill is another town nearly as large as Mondoví (see p. 184).

The country of the Italian Waldenses consists of parts of the valleys of Pèllice, San Martino, and Perosa or Chisone, is about 20 m. long from W. to E. by 13 broad, is divided into 15 parishes, exclusive of the isolated parish of Turin, and contains a population of about 25,000. They have besides a thriving colony in Uruguay. Till Cavour in 1848 procured for Italy civil and religious liberty, the Waldenses were confined by law to their valleys; now, however, they have spread themselves over the best parts of Italy, while many emigrate every year to the United States and to Uruguay. Of late mills and manufactories have been established on their rivers, which has caused a large influx of Piedmontese workmen, so that many Waldensian towns and villages which up to 1848 were inhabited almost exclusively by Protestants have now a larger population of Romanists.

These valleys are very fertile, bearing luxuriant crops of maize, wheat, barley, potatoes, French beans, etc., intersected by long rows 305 of vines on high trelliswork, and studded with mulberry, apricot, peach, apple, pear, and cherry trees, while at the base of the densely-wooded mountains which enclose them are walnut and chestnut trees. The only high mountain in the territory is Monte Meidassa, 10,185 ft., between the valleys of the Pèllice and the Po, which river has its source 6625 ft. above the sea among the snowy summits of Monte Viso, 12,607 ft., a short way south from Monte Meidassa by either the Col dell’ Agnello or the Col Traversette, 9680 ft.

Waldensian Doctrines and Persecutions.

The Vaudois inhabited originally not only the valleys on the E. side of the Alps but also those of Louise, Embrun, and Barcelonnette on the French side (pp. 344, 345), and, as there was constant communication between them, French became the common language, as it is still in a great measure. They consider themselves a part of the Apostolic Church, which by its isolated position in the then almost inaccessible ravines had escaped the early innovations introduced by the church of Rome; albeit not altogether, for they admitted confession by contrite prayer to God and the mention aloud of their sins to a priest, the power of priests to bind and to loose, that sins were of two classes, mortal and venial, and the efficacy of fasts and penance. At the Reformation all these were swept away, and the doctrines and church polity of Calvin adopted. The independent church of the Waldenses, or valley-people, existed about a century before the arrival of Pierre Valdo from Lyons in 1180. Their name is supposed to be derived from “valle densa,” contracted into Vallenses, Valdenses, and finally Vaudois. The first serious persecution of the Italian Vaudois was begun at the instigation of Yolande, sister of Louis XI and wife of Amadée IX., Duke of Savoy. By her representation Innocent VIII. in 1487 fulminated against the Waldenses a bull of extermination. Whoever killed any of these heretics were to be absolved from promises they had made, property wrongly obtained by them was to be rendered legal, and they were to have a complete remission of all their sins. Persecution among the French Vaudois commenced in the 13th cent.

Torre-Pèllice.

Torre-Pèllice, pop. 5200, Inn: H. de l’Ours, good and comfortable, is situated on the Pèllice and its affluent the Angrogna, 34¼ m. S.W. by rail from Turin, 10½ m. from Pinerolo, and 1¼ m. from the station of Luserna-San Giovanni, pop. of both places together, 4200. Luserna is a considerable town to the N. of the station. Inn: Albergo del Belvédère. Opposite is San Giovanni, a large unfinished-looking village, with barracks, a “Tempio Evangelico,” and several elementary Protestant schools.

306

Torre-Pèllice is a thriving town in the midst of a fertile valley enclosed within most picturesque mountains. At the west end are the Waldensian church, the manse, the college, and the higher school for girls. At the other end of the town are the inn, the post and telegraph office, the Romanist church and schools, and up by the Angrogna the Baptist chapel and manse. On the rivers are cotton and flour mills, and dye and calico-printing works. These establishments have attracted many Piedmontese to the town, which, from this and other causes, have made the Romanist population more numerous than the Protestant.

The wine made in the valley of Pèllice is principally red, and is drunk in the second year. A beautiful walk extends up the valley of the Angrogna to Perosa, about 6 hrs. N. by the defile of Pra de Tor, 4360 ft., and the village of Pramollo with Waldensian chapel and schools. Pop. of the district of Pramollo, 1350.

Bobbio. Mirabouc. Col de la Croix.

Torre-Pèllice to Mont Dauphin by Bobbio, Mirabouc, Les Granges des Pras, the Col de la Croix, La Monta, and Abriés, 47 m. W., 16 to 17 hrs. walking. Up to Bobbio, 2838 ft, 7½ m. and 2½ hrs. walking, pop. 1520, Tempio Evangelico, Inns: Camoscio, etc., there is nothing particular. Afterwards the valley gradually contracts till it becomes a mere gorge, having at the entrance the ruins of Fort Mirabouc. At Mirabouc, 4718 ft., the valley turns southward to the inn and custom-house station, 5683 ft., about 3½ hrs. from Bobbio, where provisions and accommodation may be had for the night. From this commences the ascent of the Col, 7576 ft., 17 m. from Torre-Pèllice and 30 from Mont Dauphin, commanding a splendid view of Monte Viso. The top (with an Hospice) is nearly level, and the descent by the French side easy. At La Chalp the track joins the char-à-banc road leading to Mont Dauphin by La Monta, Ristolas, Abriés, and Guillestre. (For Mont Dauphin and Guillestre, see p. 344, and map p. 304.)

Pinerolo.

PINEROLO.

23½ m. S.W. from Turin by rail and 10¾ m. NE. from Torre-Pèllice is Pinerolo, 1237 ft., pop. 19,000. Inns: *Couronne d’Or; Campana; Cannon d’Oro. A handsome but rather a straggling town, with a large Piazza d’Armi, a good promenade, several hospitals, and representatives of the chief Italian banks. It contains besides a public library, various colleges and schools, including one for cavalry and another for music. The Waldenses have a chapel near the public garden, and a school for girls and another for boys. In the Via Sommeiller is a large seminary. The Cathedral is a handsome building, served by a large staff of dignitaries. In the Piazzetta Santa Croce is 307 the Italian Alpine Club. Cabs—the course, 1 fr.; the hour, 1 fr. 75 c.; each successive half-hour, 1 fr.

Perosa. Col d’Abriés.

Near the centre of the town is the terminus of the steam tram to Saluzzo, 2¼ hrs. Near the railway station is the terminus of the steam tram to Perosa, 12 m. N.W. from Pinerolo. Perosa, 2015 ft., pop. 2400, Inn: H. National, agreeably situated on the Chisone near its junction with the Germanasca. On the other side of the Chisone is Pomaretto, pop. 760, with a Waldensian chapel and school.

Perosa to Mont Dauphin.—There is a post-road up the Germanasca and down the Guil, an affluent of the Durance, to Mont Dauphin, passing by Perrero and Abriés. Abriés is 24 m. S.W. from Perosa and on the S. side of the Col d’Abriés, and 21 m. N.E. from Mont Dauphin. (For Mont Dauphin, see p. 344.) About 7 m. W. from Perosa is Perrero, 931 ft, pop. 560, on the Germanasca at its junction with the Germanasca di Massello. From this the road, still ascending the Germanasca, turns southward, and passing by the hamlets of Pomeifre, Fontana, Gardiola, and Bonous on the Germanasca at its junction with the Rodoretto, arrives at Prali on the Gormanasca, 4502 ft., pop. of district 1370, about 4½ hrs. walk from Perosa. The road from Prali passes Cugno, Ghigo, Orgiere, and Pomé to Giordano, whence it becomes a mule-path, which at the hamlet of Ribba separates from the path to the Pass Giuliano, 8358 ft. to the S.E., and continues in a S.W. direction by the Germanasca to the Col d’Abriés, 8677 ft., frequented even in winter. The summit is 3 hrs. from Prali, and the descent to the village of Abriés by the hamlet of Roux, 2½ hrs. (For Abriés and Mont Dauphin, see p. 344, and map, p. 304.)

Fenestrelle. Col de Sestrières.

Perosa to Cesanne, 28½ m. N.W. by the river Chisone, Fenestrelle, Pragelas, and Sestrières. 9 m. above Perosa is Fenestrelle, pop. 1120, Inns: Croce Bianca; Scudo di Francia, one of the strongest Italian fortresses on the frontier. 7 m. from Fenestrelle is Pragelas, where the valley becomes more Alpine in character. Other 4½ m. is Sestrières, “whence the road mounts in zigzags to the Col de Sestrières, a nearly level plain 2 m. long, commanding a good view of Mont Albergian. The descent is by long windings to the level of the Dora, which is crossed to reach Cesanne, 8 m. from Sestrières” (Ball’s Alps, p. 36). (For Cesanne to Briançon by Mont Genèvre, see under Briançon, p. 333, and map p. 304.)

SALUZZO.

Saluzzo is 42¼ m. S. by rail from Turin, and 4 hrs. by steam tram from the same city. Saluzzo is 2¼ hrs. N. from Cuneo by steam 308 tram, passing Cavour, pop. of district 7220. Coach daily to Paesana on the Po, 14 m. W., fare 1½ fr.; also to Sampeyre, Albergo della Posta, 6 hrs. S.W., on the Vraita; and to Barge, 1½ fr., Inn: Lion d’Or.

The termini of the Cuneo and Saluzzo, the Pinerolo and Saluzzo, and the Turin and Saluzzo steam trams are just within the town. The tram to Pinerolo leaves Saluzzo near the railway station, passing by the marble statue to the poet Silvio Pellico, born at Saluzzo in 1788, d. 1854. Saluzzo, pop. 18,000, Inns: Corona Grossa; Gallo, is a town of considerable size, possessing great facilities for visiting various places in the neighbourhood, either by tram, rail, or coach.

Paesana. Crissolo. Col de la Traversette.

Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin, 65½ m. W. by Paesana, Crissolo, Col de la Traversette, Abriés, and Queyras. Take the coach which starts in the evening for Paesana on the Po, 1778 ft., with two fair inns, passing Martiniana and Sanfront. Above Paesana the valley becomes very picturesque and the view of Monte Viso gradually more and more imposing. After having passed Ostana, 4266 ft., the road reaches the sanctuary of San Chiaffredo, and a little farther on is Crissolo, 8 m. from Paesana, 4374 ft. Next is the Borgo, 4954 ft., the highest village in the valley of the Po, consisting of three hamlets, the lowest having a small inn. On the opposite side of the valley and about 1 m. farther up is the cave, Balma Rio Martino, 5020 ft., in strata of dolomite. The valley shortly after becomes wild and Alpine, yet enclosing two small oases—the Pian Fiorenza, 6034 ft., and the Pian del Ré, 6625 ft., containing in summer a rich variety of rare Alpine plants. A little to the S.W. of the Pian del Ré is the source of the Po. The road to the Col de la Traversette leads N.W. from the Pian del Ré through a hollow covered with snow the greater part of the year, whence the real ascent commences. About 300 ft. below the crest and 9564 ft. above the sea is the tunnel, generally closed with snow, pierced in 1480 by Ludovico II. The summit of the pass is 9680 ft. and about 4 hrs. ascending from Crissolo. The descent into the valley of the Guil is by the Buco di Viso. On the French side, 1897 ft. below the summit, is La Bergerie du Grand Vallon. (See Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo, p. 344, and map p. 304; also Ball’s Alps, p. 22.)

Cuneo.

CUNEO.

54½ m. S. from Turin by rail, and 2½ hrs. S. from Saluzzo by rail, is Cuneo, 1500 ft., pop. 1200, Inns: H. Barra di Ferro; Albergo di Superga. Steam tram to Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, pop. 4600, 45 min. S.W.; also to Dronero on the Maira, 1¼ hr. W. (See also pp. 182 and 279.)

Cuneo to Barcelonnette, 61¼ m. W., by Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, Demonte, Vinadio, Bersezio, the Col de Largentière and l’Arche, the frontier village of France, with two inns. (See under Barcelonnette; Cuneo to Nice by the Col di Tenda, see p. 182.)

309

Turin to Florence.

291 miles southwards by Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena, and Bologna. Time by quick trains, 13 hours. For London to Florence, and through tickets, see the Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, 3d.

FLORENCE 291 TURIN. (For Asti, and the route as far as Alessandria, see p. 280, and map p. 199.)

TURIN
FLORENCE 81 210 VOGHERA, pop. 10,000, on the Staffora. Hotel: H. Italia. Branch to Pavia, 17 m. N., and Milan. Between Voghera and the next station, Casteggio, is on the right Montebello, where the battle took place, 9th June 1800, which preceded that of Marengo by five days.

Piacenza. Cathedral.

TURIN
FLORENCE 117 174 PIACENZA, pop. 36,000, on the Po. Hotels: S. Marco; Italia; Croce Bianca. Cabs—the course, 1 horse, 70 c.; 2 horses, 1 fr. For the first hour, 1 horse, 1 fr. 50 c.; 2 horses, 1 fr. 80 c.

In the middle of the town is the square called the Piazza de’ Cavalli, from the two bronze equestrian statues of Duke Alexander Farnese and his son Duke Ranuccio. On one side is the church of S. Francesco, and on the other the Palazzo del Governo, and opposite it the picturesque Palazzo del Comune, begun in 1281. The portico underneath is used as a market. The upper part of the building is of red brick with handsome windows. The principal street, the Strada Diritta, leads to the Cathedral (1122-1233), containing some admirable paintings. In the interior the arches are round, but the ribs of the roof meet at an angle. At the 3d altar is a picture, by A. Sirani, of the Ten Thousand Martyrs; at the 4th a painting of the Death of a Saint. In the right transept is an altar-piece, Three Saints, by Calisto di Lodi, and on the ceiling frescoes by Agostino and Lodovico Carracci, in Correggio’s style. The Coronation of the Virgin is by Procaccini. The Cupola is divided into eight compartments; six of them were painted by Guercino, with figures of prophets and sybils; the other two figures were by Morazzone. Below are four allegorical paintings by Franceschini. The roof of the crypt under the church rests on 100 columns. S. Antonino (the former cathedral) was commenced in the 10th cent., and restored in 1562. The curious vestibule and the massive columns bearing the tower are relics of the earlier edifice. At the W. end of the town is Sa. Maria di Campagna, famous for paintings by Pordenone. On 310 the left of the chief entrance is a fresco by him of St. Augustine and five Angels; in the 1st chapel left are two large frescoes, the Nativity of the Virgin and the Adoration of the Magi. Crossing the transept we have on the left the “Marriage of St. Catharine,” the faces being portraits of the Pordenone family, and a fine fresco also by him, representing the dispute of St. Catharine. By him are likewise the frescoes in the eight compartments of the cupola; those in the pendentives are by B. Gatti. The most highly decorated church is S. Sisto (built in the 16th cent.), with an Ionic atrium. Raphael’s Madonna, now at Dresden, was taken from S. Sisto.

The Palazzo Farnese is a great, unfinished, building, begun in 1558 by Margaret of Austria, now used as barracks. The Mandelli palace, now the Prefettura, has a handsome façade. 24 miles to the south of Piacenza is the site of Velleia, a town which was overwhelmed by a landslip in the 3d cent. Many interesting objects have been obtained there; which have been deposited in the museum of Parma. In the vicinity are emanations from the ground of carburetted hydrogen gas, which takes fire on the application of a flame.

Parma. Museum.

TURIN
FLORENCE 153 138 PARMA, pop. 46,000, on the Parma. Hotels: Albergo Centrale; Croce Bianca; Leone d’Oro. Parma, although founded by the Boii, and conquered by the Romans 183 B.C., is a neat clean town of modern appearance, surrounded by bastioned walls. The most important of the edifices is the Palazzo Ducale, forming, with the Palazzo Farnese, a large unsymmetrical assemblage of buildings in the Piazza del Corte behind the Piazza Grande. In the Ducal Palace is a collection of paintings belonging to the French school. In the Farnese are the Museum of Antiquities, the Picture-Gallery, the Library, and the Farnese Theatre, now in a ruinous condition. It was built in 1620, in the time of Duke Ranuccio, and for many years was the scene of splendid spectacles and grand public entertainments.

The Museum of Antiquities embraces a small collection, in four rooms, of Roman altars, bronzes, busts, and mosaics, principally from Velleia and Rome. Among the most remarkable, are “The Theft of the Tripoid,” in 1st room. In the 2d room, a statuette of Hercules intoxicated, and the “Tabula alimentaria,” a rescript of the Emperor Trajan, relating to the support of certain poor children. In 4th room, a bust of Maria Louisa, the first Napoleon’s second wife, by Canova. Higher up on the same staircase is the Library, with 150,000 volumes, and some thousands of MSS., in several large galleries and halls, at the end of one of which is Correggio’s fresco of the Coronation of the Virgin.

311

Parma: Picture-Gallery—Correggio.

The Pinacoteca is on the same floor of the palace as the library, and is open daily during the same hours. The collection is not large, but is remarkable for the number and value of Correggio’s pictures. In selecting the best pictures, we shall arrange the names of the painters alphabetically to facilitate reference.

Annibal Caracci.—Pietá. Lodovico Caracci.—Funeral of the Virgin; the Apostles at the tomb of the Virgin (two large pictures). Cima da Conegliano.—Two very good pictures. (Correggio.)—1. The Madonna della Scala, a fresco. 2. The Flight into Egypt, known as the Madonna della Scodella, from the dish in the Virgin’s hand. 3. The Madonna with St. Jerome, sometimes called Il Giorno, from its bright daylight effect and in contrast with La Notte at Dresden—this is Correggio’s best picture here, perhaps it is the best picture he ever painted on canvas, and it is universally considered one of the marvels of art. The letters A. A. (Antonio Allegri) are worked into the silk that covers the walls of the cabinet. 4. The Martyrdom of St. Placidus and St. Flavia (such subjects are not agreeable, however skilfully treated). 5. The Entombment. 6. Christ carrying his Cross (some critics think this to be a work of Anselmi, others that it is an early production of Correggio). 7. A Portrait attributed to him. (On the walls of some of the rooms are the drawings that were made for Toschi the engraver from Correggio’s frescoes at Parma.) Albert Durer.—Man with a Skull. Francesco Francia.—Descent from the Cross; the Virgin enthroned with Saints; the Virgin with the Infant and St. John (most charming). Garofalo.—Virgin and Child in the clouds, with a landscape below. Giovanni di San Giovanni.—A Singing party. Murillo.—St. Jerome. Parmegianino.—The Marriage of St. Catharine (an exquisite picture); Marriage of the Virgin; Portrait of a Man with a music book (marked “incerto” on the frame). Fra Paola da Pistoia.—Adoration of Magi. Pordenone.—Portrait of a Man with an open book. Raffaello(?).—Christ in the clouds with the Virgin and St. John, and Saints below (it is by no means certain that this is a work of Raffaello). Giuseppe Rosa.—Landscape with Cattle. Lionello Spada.—Fortune-telling, three figures; Marriage of St. Catharine. Spagnoletto.—Twelve pictures of Saints. B. Schidone.—The Entombment; the Maries at the Sepulchre; Virgin, Child, and St. John. Vandyck.—Virgin and Child; Portrait of an Old Lady. Velasquez.—Portrait of a Man in a black dress (there are other portraits ascribed to him). L. da Vinci.—Sketch of a Female Head. Zuccarelli.—River Scene.

The Ducal Garden, open daily to the public, is on the other side of the river, and may be reached from the palace by a bridge called the Ponte Verde. It is a large piece of ground, laid out in a formal style; but when its chestnuts, limes, and acacias, are in leaf, it affords a pleasant promenade. Within the grounds is a palace called Palazzo di Giardino. The Botanic Gardens are at the other side of the town, 312 near the citadel. The broad road near it, called the Stradone, is planted with trees, and is a favourite place of resort for the town’s-people, both in carriages and on foot.

Parma: Cathedral.

By a narrow street leading east from the Ducal Palace is the Cathedral, a good specimen of Italian Gothic, built in the 13th and 14th cents. The portals are adorned with lions, by B. da Bisoni, 1281. In the interior, along the top of clustered articulated columns, runs an elegant triforium, and over it extends a lofty elliptical roof, painted by G. Mazzola. The choir is above the level of the nave. Within the great door, left side, is a portrait of Correggio, and on the other, one of Parmegianino. The cupola was painted by Correggio (1526-30), with frescoes representing the Assumption of the Virgin, but they are in a ruined state. Those on the vault of the right transept were by a son of Correggio, while those on the left transept were by Orazio Sammachini. In the Capella dei Canonici, on the right side of the church, at the foot of the choir-steps, is an altar-piece by B. Gatti; and near it a poor bust of Petrarch, with an inscription recording that he was archdeacon here. Beneath the choir is a spacious crypt, supported by thirty-four marble columns. On the walls of the sacristy are frescoes of the 14th century, and intarsias by L. Biancho.

Parma: Baptistery. S. Giovanni.

The Baptistery is a lofty octagonal building (1196-1281), with four deeply-recessed doorways, enriched with bas-reliefs. The four tiers of open galleries with columns, and a fifth tier of engaged arches, the pinnacled canopies at the top, and the ring of fantastic carvings below, combine to render this one of the most remarkable buildings of its class in Italy. In the interior there are two tiers of galleries, some rude sculpture, and a profusion of fresco painting—old, but not of much value. At the middle is a great font, hewn out of one piece of marble, and having in the centre a place where the priest could stand, protected from the water, whilst he immersed the child. The font at which the Parmesans are now baptised is at one side, ornamented with carvings, and supported by a marble lion. S. Giovanni Evangelista (1510), a church standing near the cathedral, and much visited on account of the frescoes painted by Correggio (1520-25) in the cupola; they represent the Vision of St. John, and, though blackened and badly lighted, they are fortunately in a better condition than those in the cathedral. The figures are on a large scale, and include the Evangelists and the Fathers of the Church, who look with astonishment at the glory above. Correggio also painted in grey the decorations of the vault of the sanctuary; and over the door of the sacristy in the left transept a fresco of St. John. 313 In the 1st chapel to the right of the principal entrance is a good painting of the Modenese school, and the monument of Sanvitale-Montenuovo; in the 2d an Adoration of the Shepherds, by Giacomo Francia (the painter’s portrait is seen in the old man to the left); in the 6th chapel is a copy of Correggio’s “Night,” now at Dresden. On the arches of the 1st and 2d chapels on the left of the entrance are much-damaged frescoes by Parmegianino (four subjects); and in the 6th chapel is a picture, by Anselmi, of Christ with his Cross. The white marble holy-water fonts deserve notice. In the adjoining convent (now used as barracks) is a damaged fresco of two children by Correggio.

Parma: S. Paolo—Correggio.

Near the Piazza Grande is the church of the Madonna della Steccata, from designs by F. Zaccagni in 1521. The best frescoes are by Parmeggianino, Moses breaking the Tables of Stone, Adam and Eve, and the Virtues, on the archway of the choir. On the vault over the high altar a Coronation of the Virgin, by Anselmi. Gatti painted the cupola. The wooden pulpit combines elegance with simplicity. A good Madonna in corner chapel left of main entrance. Near the Piazza di Corte is the church of S. Lodovico, and adjoining it the suppressed Convent of S. Paolo, now a school. In this small building are the best preserved works of Correggio, painted for the abbess of the convent on the walls and ceiling of this her reception-room. The subject is Children, or Amoretti, represented as being seen through the openings of a bower or piece of trellis-work. Their varied attitudes are most charmingly portrayed. Diana herself, whose Triumph is thus depicted, is painted over the fireplace. Below the principal subjects are smaller figures in grey. The frescoes in the next room are by Araldi. The custodian is generally to be found in the picture-gallery.

The famous Parmesan cheese is made chiefly in dairies around Milan, Lodi, and Pavia, and is called Formaggio di grana, because commonly used in a granular form with soup. 17½ miles S.E. from Parma is Reggio Emilia (pop. 24,000). Hotels: Posta; Cavaletto. Cabs—80 c. the course; 1½ fr. the hour. Sights—Cathedral; house of Lodovico Ariosto, born here 1474. His Orlando Furioso went through sixteen editions in the 16th cent. 9 m. N.E. is Correggio, the birthplace of the great painter Antonio Allegri, called Correggio. To the Castle of Canossa and back, 14 frs.

Modena. Cathedral.

TURIN
FLORENCE 185¼ 105¾ MODENA, pop. 31,000. Hotels: Reale; San Marco; Italia. Their omnibuses await the trains. Cabs—one horse, 80 c. the course, 1 fr. 50 c. the hour; 2 horses, 1 fr. the course, 1 fr. 70 c. the hour.

Modena (Mutina, Lat.), the capital of the former duchy of Modena, 314 is a clean and well-built town surrounded by ramparts, some of which serve the inhabitants as promenades. The country around is flat and fertile. A canal connects the town with the Panaro, a tributary of the Po, by which means water communication with the Adriatic is obtained.

The Cathedral, begun in 1099, is in the centre of the city. Its exterior is irregular, and encumbered with houses. The principal façade is small but pleasing, with a large rose window and three doorways. On the side next the Piazza Grande is a handsome porch, with columns resting on rudely-carved lions of red marble. The interior, though low, and destitute of paintings of merit, is interesting, especially for the sub-choral chapel, with a roof supported by many marble columns. At the entrance of this chapel is a group of lions, and in one corner life-size figures in coloured terra-cotta, by Begarelli, representing the Nativity. In the church notice the holy-water fonts, which look as if they were the hollowed capitals of ancient columns, and the stone pulpit with bas-reliefs. On the right side of the choir are some curious old bas-reliefs, including one of the Last Supper; and on the left side of the choir is the mausoleum of the last Duke of the house of Este in the male line, died 1803. The Campanile, one of the finest in Italy, 315 feet high, was erected in the 13th and 14th cents. It received the name of Ghirlandina from its vane being ornamented with a bronze garland. Modena: Ducal Palace. At the head of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the Ducal Palace, an immense pile, containing the Picture-Gallery, occupying several halls in the upper stories, with an entrance on the north side. It is open daily from 9 to 4. The collection comprises between 500 and 600 pictures, amongst which, though there are no chefs d’œuvre, are many good ones. The gallery once ranked high amongst Italian galleries, but towards the end of the last century 180 pictures were sold, including five Correggios, to the King of Poland (they are now at Dresden); and the Duke when expelled in 1860 took away with him a few more of the best. In two of the rooms are glazed cases full of drawings and sketches by the old masters. Amongst them is a drawing in sepia for Tintoretto’s masterpiece, the Miracle of St. Mark at Venice. In a room kept locked, but which the custode will open on application, are some interesting cabinets (one designed, it is said, by B. Cellini, another of amber, a third of tortoise-shell); also bronzes, carving in wood and ivory, majolica, enamels, etc. Amongst other curiosities is a “Presepio,” with numerous figures in coral, the metal work being of silver.

The Library, on the same staircase as the Pinacoteca, contains 315 about 100,000 printed books (including 2500 quattrocentisti) and 3000 MSS. placed in several halls, one of which is very large. Also a few Roman and Etruscan antiquities, and the series of coins and medals struck at Modena. In the suppressed convent of S. Agostino, near the gate of that name, is the Museo Lapidario. Among the articles is a block of stone obtained from the ancient Via Mutina, at a depth of 18 feet below the surface. On the other side is a collection of mediæval tombs. In the church of St. Agostino is a terra-cotta group, by Begarelli, of the Entombment. M. Angelo spoke very highly of this artist’s works.

The Ducal Garden is a prettily laid out piece of ground, which is open to the public daily from the early morning to the evening.

Bologna.

opp. 316

TURIN
FLORENCE 208¼ 82¾ BOLOGNA, pop. 91,000. Hotels: Brun; Italia; Bologna; Aquila Nera; del Pellegrino; Tre Re; Venezia; Commercio. Restaurants: Stelloni; Felsineo. Omnibuses from the hotels meet the trains. Cabs—one horse, the course, 75 c.; by the hour, 1 fr. 50 c. To or from the railway station, without luggage, 1 fr.

Bologna is a walled city, with twelve gates, situate on a fertile plain near the foot of the Apennine range. The Bolognese school of painting is called the Scuola Caraccesca, from its founders, Lodovico Carracci (b. 1555, d. 1619), and his two cousins Annibale (b. 1560, d. 1609) and Agostino, a man of erudition, who furnished the general plan of the pictures. Their most distinguished pupils were Guido Reni (b. 1575, d.&