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[1]

PIG RAISING
A Manual for Pig Clubs

BY
ARETAS W. NOLAN
ASSISTANT PROFESSOR, AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION,
UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS

AND
JAMES H. GREENE
STATE LEADER, JUNIOR EXTENSION SERVICE,
UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS

CHICAGO     NEW YORK
ROW, PETERSON AND COMPANY

[2]

Copyright, 1918
ROW, PETERSON
AND COMPANY

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PREFACE

Whatever may be the status of the project system of teaching other subjects, it is coming to be quite generally agreed that the home project offers one of the best methods for teaching elementary agriculture. The essentials of the home project plan are as follows: (1) A definite, detailed plan for work at home covering a season or more or less extended period of time; (2) it must be a part of the instruction of the school in agriculture; (3) the parents and pupils should agree with the teacher upon the plan; (4) the home work must have competent supervision; (5) records and reports of time, method, cost and income must be honestly kept and submitted to the teacher.

In the study and practice of a vocational subject such as agriculture, we may distinguish three aspects, each involving distinct pedagogical characteristics and special problems of administration. The first includes the concrete, specific, or practical work, such as the actual making of a garden, the raising of poultry, or the growing of corn; the second involves a study of such technical sciences as botany, physics, chemistry, and the principles of the agricultural science relating directly to the subject of agriculture under consideration; the third aspect includes such general information as the history, economic values, and other interesting facts of that particular phase of agriculture being studied. Doctor Snedden states in his “Problems of Secondary Education,” that the keynote of the[4] newer education in these fields is to be found in the development of facilities for obtaining practical experience, under conditions as nearly approximating those of the actual vocation as can be obtained.

It is for the purpose of making as practical as possible some of the principles of scientific agriculture for the boys and girls of the public schools, and of giving direct vocational value to such work that this little book, the third of a series, is submitted. The plan outlines one project in each booklet, supplying the project directions, practical exercises for laboratory work, subject-matter for study and recitation, and notebook forms for accounts and records. The school work in elementary agriculture for one year may be based upon one or two projects, giving opportunity to supply new subject-matter by rotation each year; or the project method may be used to supplement the text-book method as used either in the elementary or high-school grades. In either case, the boys and girls doing the project work should be organized into a club and affiliated with the State Boys and Girls Club movement through the state leader, usually located at the State College of Agriculture.

—The Authors.

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CONTENTS

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To the Teacher

Teachers of agriculture are beginning to realize that the swine industry may be utilized to advantage in the training of young farmers. Pig raising makes a good home project. Most boys in the country, and some girls, will find a way to keep one or more pigs if their interest is aroused. The class work may be centered around the project, or the project may supplement and furnish the practical work in connection with a text-book study of general agriculture. With one or two class-room recitations a week based upon reports of the progress and problems of the project, upon the practical exercises herein given, and upon the subject-matter and project outline study presented in Part IV; including also some Friday afternoon club programs as suggested, and with the actual work being done at home, a course in agriculture of real, practical worth may be given in any school. Pig raising enables a boy to enter in a small way into the live-stock business. Comparatively little capital is required and quick returns are secured. With good management a small beginning will soon result in a herd of good size. The teacher should make use of the studies connected with the pig raising project to bring out the essentials of general animal production. Much that is learned regarding the feeding and breeding of swine may be applied to raising other animals.

It is not necessary that the teacher be an expert in swine husbandry to make this project a success. The[7] teacher may help greatly by being an interested co-worker, encouraging the boys and girls, learning with them, leading them to sources of information, and being a sympathetic friend in their work and life on the farm.

If possible, each member of the class should be induced to begin the pig raising project with a pure-bred gilt. If this is not possible, any pig may be selected, fed, and cared for according to the project directions. The home project may be carried on as an independent class activity, or it may be correlated with the work of the pig club organization. It will be an easy matter and a most desirable thing to do to organize the class into a pig club, affiliate with the state club movement, and all work together in the big business of food production.

—A. W. Nolan.

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A Good Herd in Pasture

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PART I
PIG PROJECT CALENDAR

September

1. Organization of the club. See plans for club organization in the appendix. The class in elementary agriculture undertaking to base its work largely upon the home project should organize as directed by the club plan. Each member of the class should become a member of the club and plan to do all the work outlined for the project. The plan should meet with the approval of the board of education, of the parents of the boys and girls undertaking the project, and should have the hearty support of the county superintendent of schools, of the teacher and of the pupils themselves who are to do the work. The state club leader at the State College of Agriculture should be notified of the organization of the club so that he may send enrollment blanks and all such literature and publications as will be helpful in the progress of the work.

2. Getting started. For the pig raising project members of the class or club may start with one or several pigs, or with a sow pig (or gilt) bred to farrow early in October, since this is to be a project for the entire year. A pig belonging to one of the breeds most prevalent in the community should be selected, provided, of course, that it is a breed which is adapted to local conditions and meets market requirements.

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In making the selection of the gilt, consider the pedigree and the individuality of the animal. Unless you know the pedigree it is best to leave that to the reliable breeder with whom you are dealing. Every member of the class joining the pig club should learn how to pick out a good pig. In the beginning, however, it would be well to depend upon the judgment of an experienced man in the selection of the gilt for the year’s project.

3. Beginning the record. On the blank pages provided in Part IV of this book write a brief history and description of the breed of hog you select. Each pupil should keep a neat and accurate record of all operations, accounts, results, etc., on the pages provided for the pig raising project.

4. Registering the pigs. If a pure-bred gilt is the starting point of the project, the club member should get the experience of following the rules of registration for the breed. Send to the secretary of the breed association for full information and blank forms, free of charge. When an animal is sold, a certificate of registration will be appreciated by the purchaser. Fill out the registration record in the form given in Part IV of this book.

5. A place for the pig. The first problem after securing a good pig is that of proper care and management. Pigs need clean food, clean water, exercise and a clean bed, if they are to thrive and be profitable. See to it that your pigs have a dry, warm, clean, and well-ventilated house. Sunshine is a good warmer and disinfectant of the hog house. For the beginner the individual house of the A type or square type is recommended. A good pasture will provide cheap, clean food, exercise and a clean bed during the summer.

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October

1. Feeding the young sow. Not more than two-thirds of the grain ration of the young brood sow should be corn. Good feeders prefer to use ground oats and middlings with milk or tankage[1] in connection with corn. The young sow should be kept in good, strong condition but not overloaded with fat. The following ration is one good one recommended:

2. Farrowing time. At farrowing time place the sow in a sheltered building, dry, free from draughts and well-ventilated. To prevent the sow from lying against the wall of the pen and thus injuring any little pigs which may be lying there, it is a good plan to provide a guard rail made of two by eight-inch planks fastened with their edges against the sides of the pen a little above the bed. The young sow should have a liberal amount of bedding of cut straw. She should have an individual pen or house, receive kind treatment and have quiet quarters. If the sow remains quiet for twelve hours or more after farrowing, so much the better.

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3. Feeding and care of the nursing sow. The feed after farrowing should be about the same as before. At first she should have little more than a drink. A thin slop of middlings and water will serve. The sow should not be overfed and should be given a week or ten days to come to a full ration. The following is one good ration recommended:

4. Record work. Be sure to keep all records called for on the record pages, including date of farrowing, number of pigs, method of housing, feeding rations, successes, failures, etc. Provision for weighing the pigs from time to time should be provided.

5. Reading and study. In connection with the practical work of raising your pigs, read at this time what your text and reference books have to say about care and management of the brood sow.

November and December

1. Feeding the pigs. About the first thought in connection with raising pigs is that they eat. It is important that every pig in the litter get its stomach full of the first milk of the sow. The young pigs will learn to eat when about three weeks of age. If the pigs can be fed separately from the sow, better results will be[13] obtained. In one corner of the pen place a small trough for the pigs and fence it off from the sow. At least twice a day give the pigs as much sweet skim-milk as they will clean up. Do not leave any milk to sour in the trough. Then a few days after they begin to nibble grass and drink milk, a gruel of oats and wheat middlings may be made with the milk. Later a small amount of corn soaked for twenty-four hours may be placed in the trough. Do not feed more than they will clean up. Young pigs may be weaned at from eight to ten weeks.

2. Some standard rations for growing pigs.

3. Housing the pigs. Perhaps the main reason for housing the pigs is to furnish a dry bed, and since hogs do not shed their hair for warmer coats or thicken it up as horses do, provision should be made to shelter the hogs from the cold of winter as well as from the extreme heat of summer. Reference has already been made to the house for the sow and her litter of pigs. It is not necessary to have expensive buildings, especially in the beginning. Even a pen covered with boards and fresh straw may meet all the requirements.

For the pig club boys and girls starting in to raise two litters in a year, a good, cheap and easily constructed pen is described as follows in Lippincott’s “Productive Swine Husbandry”;

“The pen is sixteen feet long and eight feet wide. It is seven feet high in front and three and one-half feet high at the rear. It is boarded with cheap lumber, but all cracks are securely battened. It should be practically wind and rain proof. The opening should be a small door in the southeast corner, as the house faces[15] the south. Plenty of bedding should be supplied, and the pen should be banked up outside with fresh horse manure to a depth of about two feet in order to prevent drafts about the floor.”

4. Records. During the winter months do not fail to make all records and keep all accounts of operations, work, expenses, results, etc., that are called for on the record pages of this book.

5. Reference reading and study. Read your texts, the farm papers, and any reference books available on the problems of feeding, housing, care and management of growing pigs. Consult experienced swine breeders and feeders and learn all you can from them that will help you to succeed with your pigs.

January and February

1. Breeding the sow for the second litter. If an April litter of pigs is desired, the sow should be bred during the month of December or early January. Breed to a pure-bred boar if possible. Keep record of dates.

2. Feeding continued. Just as we use lumber, brick, cement, shingles, nails, etc. in the proper form and proportion in building a house, so must we use milk, corn, oats, grass or other feeds in the building of the body of the hog or any other animal. Each feed is made up of different food nutrients, and each food nutrient serves a definite purpose in the body. Some of the food nutrients are used in the animal body to make bone, others for fat, and still others for the manufacture of active muscular tissue. Development will be incomplete if any class of food material is neglected; hence the necessity of a balanced ration.

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Follow carefully the feeding standards and rations suggested for November and December.

3. Keeping the pigs healthy. It is much easier to keep pigs healthy than it is to cure sick ones. Clean, dry quarters, proper feed, plenty of sunlight and ventilation, and disinfection of houses will help to keep pigs healthy.

Go over your pig pen this month, and as often thereafter as is necessary, and clean out all filth from cracks and corners, floors and feeding troughs. Apply the following disinfectant:

Once a year the pig house should be whitewashed. (See discussion in Part III.) If possible, supply “hog wallows and dips” for your pigs. (See Part III.)

March and April

1. Starting the pig project at this time. If it is desired to start the pig project at this time instead of in September, the club may be organized, a pure-bred gilt to farrow in April purchased by each member of the club, and the work started as suggested for September and October.

2. See the September and October calendar. In all essential points the members of the class beginning the pig project at this time should follow every detail outlined for September and October.

3. The October pigs. Continue the feeding rations of the October pigs as suggested for other months, according to weights and gains, and make larger use of the pasture as a supplement as the spring advances.

Alfalfa pasture has proven by many tests to be one[17] of the best for growing pigs. After the first season for alfalfa, an acre should pasture two sows and their litters throughout the season. The corn rations may be cut one-half with alfalfa as a pasture. “Pigs in clover” are contented and happy. An acre of good clover should pasture one sow and her litter. A Missouri bulletin recommends feeding shoats about a pound of corn per head per day when on good clover pasture.

4. The second litter. If the second litter of pigs for the sow for the year is farrowed in April, as was recommended at the beginning of this project, quarters separate from the October pigs should be provided for them for at least eight weeks, or until the second litter is weaned. See directions for the care and management of the sow and pigs as given for September and October.

5. Records and study. Continue to make all records called for in the project. Read and study texts and reference books relating to the work you are doing each month.

May and June

1. Summer feeding and pasture. An acre of cow peas or soy beans sown in May will furnish excellent pasture for the spring pigs, especially when the pods are formed about September. Rape is a good pasture crop for hogs. It may be sown from April to June and will be ready for pasture in about six weeks. Six to eight pounds of seed will suffice for an acre when sown broadcast. An acre of rape should pasture a sow and her October and spring litters. Corn and shorts may be used to supplement rape pasture. Continue the feeding rations according to age and weight recommended for former months.

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2. Breeding for October pigs. During the third or fourth week of June breed the sow for the October litter of pigs. Breed to a pure-bred sire if possible. Keep record of all dates.

3. Shelter for the pigs. During the summer it may be necessary to provide a shelter from the direct rays of the sun. A frame of poles covered with straw or corn-stalks will serve this purpose.

4. Hog wallows. Since pigs do not perspire they often suffer during the extreme heat of the summer. They naturally seek the coolest wallow even though it be a filthy mud hole. It would be humane as well as good business to provide a concrete wallow and keep it filled with eight or ten inches of water. Coal-tar or crude oil added to the water will help to rid the pigs of lice.

5. Sanitary conditions. During the summer months continue to care for the cleanliness of all the pens and house as suggested for the winter season. Seek the advice of successful hog raisers and veterinarians upon the slightest evidence of unhealthy pigs. See discussion on worms and cholera in Part III.

6. Ringing the pigs. One ring should not be placed in the center of the pig’s nose, but if ringed at all, use two rings, one on either side of the center of the nose, close to the tendons running down to the pig’s snout.

July and August

1. Getting ready for an exhibit. If there is to be a local, county, or state fair, club members will arrange through their leader to have an exhibit of their pigs at the fair. Follow carefully and honestly all directions and rules laid down by your state club leader in entering[19] the contest and exhibiting your pigs. If there is no fair or exhibit for you to attend, make one at your local school. Your state club leader will send full directions for all contests and exhibits.

2. Preparing the pig for exhibition.[3] The first thing to do toward getting the pig ready for a show is to wash his body thoroughly with warm rain water, and a good lathery soap. Use a stiff brush so that dirt and dust will be removed. A little disinfectant in the wash water would be a good thing. Thoroughly rinse the soap out of the hair after washing and allow the pig to dry in a clean, dry stall.

His coat. When all the moisture has disappeared from the hair and skin, a light application of sweet oil may well be made, taking particular care to rub the oil well into the skin. The oil will keep the hair and hide soft and will give the pig a shiny coat, thereby improving his appearance. The use of too much oil is objectionable, both because it is apt to become “gummed” in the hair and make the animal “sticky”, and because it will soil the fingers of the people who will probably stroke and pet the pig when he is taken to the show. If sweet oil is not available, raw linseed oil may be used instead, but a somewhat lighter application of linseed oil should be made. Oil is seldom used on white pigs.

The feet. Frequently the pig’s feet will require some attention. If the toes are too long or are broken off so that they are rough, they should be trimmed with a good sharp jackknife. This can be done best when the animal is lying down. If the boy has taken[20] care of his animal properly, the pig will submit to such handling without any objection. In fact he will like to be played with and will enjoy having his master work with him.

After the pig has been properly groomed he should be kept in a dry stall that is bedded deep with clean straw. If he shows an inclination to root down into the dirt and soil himself by digging beneath his bedding, rings should be placed in his nose. If not absolutely necessary, however, it is better not to ring hogs intended for show.

Make your pig gentle. An hour a day should be spent teaching the pig to stand still while being examined. While it is not customary at big shows to hold pigs while they are being judged, yet at a contest of this kind the best trained pig will be looked upon with special favor, since such a pig will signify to the judges that his master has done everything possible “to bring him out.”

3. Marketing the pigs. The October pigs will be ready for the market this summer, probably as early as July. Study carefully the market classes and grades described in Part III. Determine to which classes and grades your pigs should belong. Watch carefully the daily market reports in the papers. Seek the best advice you can get on the important business of marketing your pigs.

4. Concluding work. Finish all records called for in Part IV. Achievement, as one boy puts it, is “getting into the game, sticking to it, and finishing the job.” Here is your chance to achieve not only a successful and profitable piece of work for yourself, but a man’s service in adding to the food supply of your country.

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PART II
PRACTICAL EXERCISES

1. Wild relatives of swine. Pupils should prepare written reports upon the following wild relatives of the hog: peccary, wart hog, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, wild boar. Consult geographies, natural histories and encyclopedias for such information.

2. Swine on the home farm. Let each pupil report on the swine on the home farm by filling out the following table:

3. Market prices. Pupils should record the market prices of hogs in a tabular form, every day for a period of two weeks. Such daily quotations may be obtained from the newspaper. If possible, record the number of the “run” of hogs which were offered for sale at the market where prices are quoted. Note any relation that may exist between price and number of hogs.

4. Inspection trips. The class should make a tour of the farms in the community where the various breeds of swine may be studied. Note the distinguishing characteristics. Use the following table in classifying the distinguishing characteristics:

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5. Comparative judging. Prepare a ring of swine, two, three, or four animals, and have the pupils place these according to rank, basing their judgment on form, condition, and quality of the swine in the ring. In performing this exercise it may be necessary for the instructor to go over the whole matter of conformation, condition, and quality as they should be found in good swine.

6. Exercises in judging. After the pupils have become somewhat familiar with the points in judging swine, information may be given as to the judging of individuals by the score cards. Under the direction of the instructor use the score card of your State Experiment Station.

7. Reports on home feeding methods. Let each pupil report on the methods of feeding and managing swine at home, using the following outline:

(a) The house, pen, or range in which the pigs are fed for fattening.

(b) The feed used, amount, kind, etc.

(c) Criticism of the above methods, and suggestions for improvement.

8. Houses. Pupils should bring pictures of hog houses, clipped from farm papers or other publications in which they may be found, and in class make a critical study of the illustrations assembled. Ground floor plans should be drawn by each student for several types of house.

9. Breed directory. Let each pupil make a report[23] on the names of swine breeders in the locality and the breeds raised. This may be made into a breed directory for the community.

10. Making a concrete hog wallow.[4] A hog perspires but little during hot weather and is forced to seek a cool mud wallow if nothing else is provided. This has resulted in the impression that the hog is a dirty animal.

A concrete hog wallow provided with a drain will enable the hog raiser to give his hogs a cool, clean refuge from the heat. If a small amount of crude oil is poured on the surface of the water, it will serve to rid the animals of lice and keep the skin in good condition. If possible, the wallow should be located near the water supply, either a tank or spring. The following sectional view of a wallow is taken from the Cement News published by the Universal Portland Cement Co.

1. Sectional View of a Concrete Wallow

It is recommended that the pool be made rectangular with rounded corners. It should not have a depth of more than 18 inches. The size should be determined by the number of pigs kept. A concrete floor 4 feet[24] wide laid around the pool will prevent rooting and the carrying of mud into the wallow.

2. Trough for Young Pigs

11. Wooden troughs for swine. In figures 2 and 3 are shown two types of wooden troughs that are used extensively by swine raisers. The one shown in figure 2 is designed for use in feeding young pigs. As shown in the drawing it is shallow and is constructed with a flat bottom and wide end pieces. The shallowness makes it easy for the young pigs to get at the feed, and the wide ends make it difficult for the pigs to overturn it. The cross pieces prevent the hogs from lying in the trough. The drawing gives all necessary dimensions. Make out a bill of material and a bill of stock, cut the pieces, and assemble them.

3. Trough for Mature Hogs

Figure 3 shows a V-shaped trough for older hogs. Like the one shown for young pigs, it is wide at the ends and is provided with cross pieces. The drawing[25] gives all necessary dimensions. Make out bills of material and stock, and construct.

12. Hurdles for use in stock judging. A hurdle as described in this exercise is a panel of boards made as shown in figure 4. Hurdles are portable and are useful when sorting hogs into groups or when scoring and judging them. Three or four hurdles fastened together at the ends make a very good temporary pen.

4. Hurdle

The materials required are four pieces 1 by 4 inches by 12 feet, one piece 2 by 4 inches by 8 feet, and 2 pounds of eightpenny common nails. To build the panel, cut the pieces as shown in the drawing. Lay the four pieces of 2 by 4 inches on the floor, spacing them 4 feet apart, nail the bottom board, space 2 inches and nail the second board, space 3 inches and nail the third board, and nail the fourth board on the top.

13. Making a collection of feeds. Secure a supply of small bottles and make and label a collection of samples of feeds suitable for pigs.

14. Weighing pigs with steelyards.[5] In the pig project it is recommended that the pig or pigs be weighed each week. Where stock or platform scales are at hand the weighing can be performed easily, but, unfortunately, some boys do not have scales of any kind[26] which they can use for this purpose. In project work boys do not generally feel that they can afford to purchase platform scales, but since the weighing is a very important part of the work, some means should be provided, and steelyards are suggested for the purpose. These are not expensive, costing about $3.00, and with proper arrangement can be used very satisfactorily. For weighing feed they can usually be suspended from joists in granaries, but for weighing the pig it will probably be necessary to construct a horse from which to suspend them. A crate also will be needed for holding the pig while being weighed. The material required for these articles is not expensive and both can be constructed by the boys in the club or class.

Suggestions For Making Horse and Crate[6]

Material. Any ordinary lumber having proper dimensions can be used. If new lumber is purchased, yellow pine will serve the purpose satisfactorily, costing 2½c or 3c per lumber foot. The length suggested for the horse is 8 feet, though this can be reduced by placing the steelyards at right angles to the length of the horse in place of in the same direction, as suggested by the cut. The height should be 7 feet to provide space for fastening the crate to the steelyards. The legs should be beveled at upper ends before nailing to rail and should be spread at bottom so as to measure 3½ feet. Stock required for constructing horse is as follows: One piece 2″×6″×8′ if made eight feet long; two pieces 2″×6″×14′; or 2″×4″×14′ for legs; two pieces 1″×6″×10′ for braces.

In place of the crate any box of the proper size can be used for the purpose by nailing strips on the sides for[27] convenience in handling, and for fastening rope to it. If a crate is constructed it should be 4 or 4½ feet long, 2½ feet high, and 20 inches wide. The slats on one end of the crate should be securely nailed, and on the other they should be arranged to slide into place, so that they can be removed easily after each weighing.

5. Arrangement for Weighing Pigs

The pig to be weighed is securely fastened in the crate and the horse placed over it so that the ring or hook of steelyards is nearly over the center. The crate is then raised sufficiently to place 2×4 blocks under it, and it is then fastened to the steelyards by means of a chain or rope. The scale weight on the steelyards can be approximately placed before the blocks are removed from under the crate. To remove blocks, draw down on long end of steelyards, which will raise the crate from the blocks and allow them to be easily removed. After the crate swings free the scale weight can be carefully adjusted to ascertain exactly the gross weight[28] of the pig and crate. The weight of pig can, of course, be easily ascertained by subtracting the weight of crate from the gross weight.

There are advantages in this arrangement for weighing, in addition to its being inexpensive. The parts can easily be moved from place to place without injury, and can be placed in any pen or hog lot without difficulty, which is not always the case with platform or other scales.

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PART III
SWINE

Origin. The ancestors of the hogs found on American farms came from two sources, southeastern Asia and western Europe. These two families of hogs are often designated by the names Sus Indica and Sus Scrofa. Although the word sus is Latin, boys or girls who feed pigs use it when they call “sui, sui,” to the pigs at feeding time.

6. A Razor-Back

Sus Indica, a native of China, was a small, fine-boned animal much prized by the people of southeastern Asia. Descendants of Sus Scrofa, the wild boar of western Europe, are still hunted in forests and private game preserves. The wild boar is a large, ferocious animal with thin hams and a heavy shield. From its Chinese ancestor the modern hog has derived its form and quality; from the wild boar it has obtained its size and vigor.

Swine were probably introduced into this country[30] by early Spanish explorers. For many years wild hogs were found in the everglades of Florida. It is recorded that Jamestown had to be fenced to keep out the wild hogs, descendants of those brought over by earlier settlers. Although the ancestors of the hog came from China and western Europe, it remained for English breeders to blend the two and develop the earlier breeds.

The earlier breeds like the Berkshire were developed where corn is not grown successfully. Under such conditions the bacon-type of hog was produced.

Bacon-type. The bacon hog has a longer side, less fat and a smaller ham. Canada, Denmark, and Ireland produce the finest hogs of this type. Bacon hogs furnish the “Wiltshire side,” in which ham, side, and shoulder are marketed in one piece. This cut commands a higher price on the European continent than pork from the lard hog. The weight of this type of hog for market varies from 160 to 200 pounds. The form of the bacon-type is quite different from the form of the lard-type. The hog has longer legs, the body is not so thick or deep, the shoulders, neck, and jowls are lighter. The hog should be longer from shoulder to ham, with sufficient depth and thickness to denote good constitution. Quality, as in the lard-type, is indicated by a smooth coat of hair and an unwrinkled skin. The finished bacon hog “handles” firmer to the touch than a finished lard hog. The bones of this type are larger, but they should present a clean-cut appearance. The loin is the most valuable cut in this hog, and should be as wide as the rest of the back, full, strong, and well packed with flesh. The ribs should spring out boldly from the backbone and turn sharply downward, giving a straight, flat side. The leading breeds of the[31] bacon-type of swine are the Tamworth and the Large Yorkshire. Sometimes the Hampshire is so classed.

Lard-type. The lard hog is a native of the corn belt. This type of hog has a compact, thick, deep, smooth body. The ham, back, loin and shoulders are the most valuable parts and are developed to a higher degree. The production of lard and fat is the principle aim of this type. Quality is denoted by fine hair, smooth, clean, unwrinkled skin, rather fine bone, and an even distribution of flesh. The jowls should be broad, plump, and full, and the belly not baggy in appearance. The hog should have short upright pasterns. The snout should be fine, the face wide between the eyes, and the space between the ears wide and full. Width between the eyes and fullness and width between the ears indicate a good feeder. The neck should be short and deep and should blend smoothly into the shoulder. The shoulder should be well developed, blending smoothly into the body and covered evenly with flesh over all parts. The back should be broad, slightly arched, of medium length and thickly fleshed. The ribs should be well sprung, the sides deep and even between the shoulders and ham. The ham should be broad, deep, plump, and heavily fleshed well down toward the hocks. The rump should be as wide as the back. The legs should be short, straight, set well apart and squarely under the body. The above brief description is general for all breeds of the lard hog. The Poland China, Chester White, Berkshire, and Duroc-Jersey are the popular breeds of this type of hog.

Breeds. The selection of a good breed by a pig club member is an important matter. He should be influenced by two conditions: the breeds raised in the community and his own preference. The community[32] which confines its efforts to two, or better, to one breed of hog, will attract buyers and its stock will command fancy prices. On the other hand, a breeder will be most successful with the breed in which he has confidence.

To make an intelligent choice, every club member should become familiar with the characteristics, advantages, and shortcomings of the several breeds of hogs. It should be borne in mind that there is no “best breed.”

Bacon Breeds

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12. Large Yorkshire

The Large Yorkshire. This large white breed, too, originated in England. White spots are not desirable and black hairs disqualify animals. The Large Yorkshire possesses the typical bacon conformation: light hams and shoulders, long legs and a long, narrow and deep body. On account of its size, strong bone, and ability to produce large litters, Yorkshire boars have been used for crossing with breeds which are lacking in these respects.

13. Tamworth

The Tamworth. This breed much resembles the[34] Large Yorkshire in size but has a longer snout. The Tamworths are good rustlers and produce bacon which can be used for export purposes at a comparatively early age. They are sometimes criticized for their inability to compete with the lard breeds in the production of fat carcasses. It should be borne in mind, however, that they are distinctly a bacon breed.

The Large Yorkshire and the Tamworth are the only two bacon breeds in this country. Other minor breeds, both lard and bacon, which might be mentioned are the Mule-Foot, Small Yorkshire, Essex, Cheshire, Victoria and Large Black.

Lard Breeds

7. Poland China

Poland China. The Poland China is one of the most popular breeds. It is of medium size, black in color with “six white points” on face, tail and feet. Its ears are not erect as are those of the Berkshire, but break[35] and fall forward about two-thirds of the length from the head. The face is not dished as much as that of the Berkshire, another mark of distinction.

Like all of the rest of the lard breeds, it should have heavy shoulders and hind quarters, and deep, short sides. For a time there was a demand upon the part of breeders for small, fine-boned animals. The demand of the packers was too strong, however, and the development of the Big Type Poland China marked the downfall of this “fad.”

This breed is noted for its constitution and vigor. Much of this is due, no doubt, to the fact that the originators of the breed in the Miami Valley wished to develop a hog which could be driven to Cincinnati, the great packing center of that period. The small type Poland China had small litters. This fault has been remedied in the big type strains.

8. Berkshire

The Berkshire. The erect ears, dished face and short snout of the Berkshire distinguish it quite sharply from the Poland China. It is one of the oldest breeds[36] of swine, originating in Berkshire, a county of England. The early Berkshire was a bacon, not a lard hog. It was large, rough, and late maturing. Numerous crosses with Chinese and Neopolitan pigs of fine quality have been instrumental in producing the modern, medium sized, compact animal.

This breed has a broad back, a good spring of rib and thick rump and hams. Berkshires are early maturing and breeders claim that the meat is second in quality to none. Like the Poland China, it has white on the feet, face and tip of tail.

9. Duroc-Jersey

Duroc-Jersey. This breed of red hog is becoming very popular on account of its constitution and ability to produce large litters. It resembles the Poland China in size, shape and position of ear and snout. The color desired by most breeders is a cherry and not a sandy red.

Nothing definite is known of its early history. Red hogs had often been imported. Among the records of such importations are those of Henry Clay from Spain[37] and Daniel Webster from Portugal. Early Berkshires of red color were thought to have been used in developing the breed.

Two breeds, a Jersey Red in New Jersey and a Duroc in New York State, came into prominence. The former was a coarse hog of good length of body and strong constitution. The union of these two breeds produced the Duroc-Jersey.

Another point which especially recommends this breed in addition to those already mentioned is its grazing ability.

10. Chester White

The Chester White. This breed of white hog resembles the Poland China. The ears are more drooping, however, than those of that breed and break forward about one-third the distance from the head. The Chester White is also wider, thicker and longer in body.

The breed originated in Chester County, Pennsylvania. Two other strains, Todd’s Improved Chester White and the Ohio Improved Chester White, have resulted from breed improvement. The latter has now developed its own breed association.

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The Chester White ranks second to Duroc-Jerseys in the size of its litters, but the fact that its white color makes it subject to sunburn prevents its development in the southern and middle western states.

The Hampshire. This breed is classed as between the fat and bacon-types. This is due to a lighter shoulder and ham and a longer side with less depth than those of the breeds previously described. Although it will not meet the demands of the “Wiltshire side” for the English market, it will provide bacon which meets the demands of the American market.

11. Hampshire

The Hampshire is a black hog with a belt of white from 4 to 12 inches in width encircling the body and including the forelegs. It is more upstanding than the lard-type breeds, and has a broad and fairly deep body. A narrow head with close set ears extending forward but not breaking are other marks of distinction. The Hampshire matures early, has good sized litters, and is a good grazer. The proportion of fat to lean meat is very desirable. Little is known of its early history[39] other than that it originated in Hampshire, England, and that representatives were brought to Kentucky at an early date.

Selecting the pigs. In choosing a breed a club member will do well to select the one which is most prevalent in his community, provided, of course, that it is a breed which meets the market requirements and in other ways is adapted to local conditions. This will be the case if he lives in a community of successful swine breeders.

Getting started. After a breed has been decided upon, the next thing is to pick out the individuals. A pig club member may start with a pig or pigs after weaning, or a bred gilt may be purchased.

Wherever possible a pure-bred sow pig or gilt should be secured. Two things are to be considered, the pedigree and individuality of the animal. Unless you are familiar with pedigrees, it is best to leave that to the reliable breeder with whom you are dealing. Every pig club member, however, should be able to pick out a good pig.

Four things should be considered in selecting a breeding animal: form, quality, constitution, sex character and type. It is true that the matter is more difficult with a young pig than with an older pig, but part or all of these conditions may be noted in the young pig.

A pig with a comparatively long body and with good depth and width should be selected. It should stand squarely on short legs of good bone. There should be no wrinkles on the body.

A good heart girth indicates plenty of room for the lungs and denotes a strong constitution. Quality is shown in fineness of bone and hair. Too fine a bone should be avoided. To judge type one must be familiar[40] with the requirements of the various breeds. Above all, the pig selected should be a good feeder.

Care and management. After the pig or pigs are secured, the next problem is one of care and management. Every pig club member should keep in mind that pigs require a variety of clean food, clean water, exercise and, a clean bed if they are to thrive and be profitable. Being a large feeder the pig will eat dirty food from a dirty trough if no other is offered. On this account it is often thought that he will get along under any sort of circumstances. Such is not the case. No animal will respond more quickly to careful, intelligent treatment than the pig.

14. A Good Hog House

Houses. Hogs must be housed in dry, warm, clean, and well-ventilated houses. Sunshine is a very important agent in disinfecting and warming the hog house. The well-established breeder may have a colony house, but for the beginner the individual house of the A or square type is to be recommended.

During the summer a good pasture will provide cheap,[41] clean feed, exercise and a clean bed. It may be necessary, however, to provide a shelter from the direct rays of the sun. This may be furnished by a frame of poles covered with straw or corn stalks.

Sanitation. It is much easier to keep a pig healthy than it is to cure him after he becomes sick. Cleanliness, proper feed, disinfection of houses and animals, together with plenty of sunlight, ventilation and dryness of quarters, will help to keep a pig in good health.

If care is taken that there are no unnecessary cracks or corners in which filth may accumulate, it will be easy to keep houses, troughs and feeding floors sanitary. A good disinfectant should be used regularly in the pens. Five parts of crude carbolic acid in one hundred parts of water is recommended. All filth should be removed before the disinfectant is applied. Once a year all buildings should be whitewashed. A pint of crude carbolic acid should be added to each three gallons of whitewash.

Feed lots and pastures cannot be disinfected in this fashion, but applications of lime and an occasional plowing will help.

Hog wallows and dips. The pig is not naturally a filthy animal, and if given an opportunity will keep fairly clean. During the extreme heat of summer the pig suffers, owing to the fact that he perspires but little. He seeks the shelter of a cool mud wallow to get relief from heat and parasites. The intelligent hog raiser will provide a concrete wallow and keep it filled with eight or ten inches of water. Coal-tar or crude oil added to the water helps to rid the animal of lice. Where the animals are badly infested with lice it will be necessary to wet them all over, as the lice are found[42] behind the ears, inside of the legs and in the folds of the skin. A two per cent solution of creolin may be used for this purpose.

Worms. Pigs are often affected with worms which interfere with their thriftiness. A tablespoonful of castor oil and forty drops of oil of American wormseed should be given in the slop to wormy pigs. Six grains of santonin and four grains of calomel per 100 pound pig is also used successfully.

Hog cholera. It is not possible within the scope of a small book to describe all of the diseases that attack pigs. Every pig club member, however, should know something about hog cholera, the greatest scourge which attacks swine.

The germs of hog cholera may be carried on the boots of visitors, by pigeons or dogs. It can only be combatted by vaccination of healthy hogs, quarantining of all sick hogs, burning of all dead hogs and disinfection of premises.

Three methods of vaccination are in use:

(1) The injection of an anti-cholera serum, which makes the hog immune only a few months or weeks.

(2) The simultaneous treatment whereby the serum used in (1) and the defibrinated blood or virus from a diseased hog are injected together. This treatment renders the hog immune for life.

(3) In the combination method, serum alone is used first, and ten days later the simultaneous treatment is administered. This method is seldom used. The services of a skilled veterinarian should be secured to vaccinate hogs.

Feeds and feeding. Protein, fats, and carbohydrates are the three classes of nutrients found in feeds. These, in addition to mineral matter and water, furnish[43] material for the maintenance and growth of the pig. Proteins furnish the material for the production of muscle. Fats and carbohydrates provide fuel for heating the body and giving activity to the muscles. An excess of food nutrients, especially fats and carbohydrates, is stored in the body as fat. The mineral matter goes into the production of bone.

All feeds do not contain these nutrients in the same proportions. Some feeds, like corn, are deficient in protein, while others, like tankage, contain a large percentage of protein.

15. A Self-Feeder

From the foregoing it is easily seen that the problem of the hog raiser is to use a combination of feeds which will provide the proper proportions of the various nutrients. While the pigs are young, bone and muscle producing foods are especially necessary. Toward maturity the percentage of fat producing foods may be increased.

Corn, pasture and other supplements. Corn is the most widely used feed for pigs. As has been stated,[44] it is essentially a fat producing food and must be properly supplemented. Clover or alfalfa pasture supplies the protein and part of the mineral matter which the corn lacks. Rape furnishes good pasture for hogs, almost equal to clover and alfalfa. Rye, blue grass, cow peas and soy beans together with various pasture mixtures have value as hog pastures. Where pigs are fed in a dry lot, tankage may be used to supply the protein. Pasture-fed pigs are thriftier and make cheaper gains than those fed in a dry lot. Skim-milk or buttermilk together with tankage makes an ideal supplement to corn. Middlings and shorts may also be used.

Mineral matter. To insure pigs getting enough mineral matter it is recommended that the following mixture be kept before them at all times:[7]

The first four ingredients should be mixed thoroughly and the copperas dissolved in warm water and poured over the mixture.

Feeding and care of the sow. In starting in the swine industry with one or more gilts, it should be borne in mind that a sow should not be bred until she is eight or ten months of age. Every hog raiser should aim to have his sows produce two litters a year, farrowing in April and October.

Not more than two-thirds of the grain ration should be corn. Some feeders prefer to use ground oats and[45] middlings exclusively. In any event, heating and fattening foods should be avoided. In addition to the grain ration, roots and clover or alfalfa hay or skim-milk should be fed. Sows on good pasture require little grain except just before farrowing.

At farrowing time the sow should be placed in a building, dry, free from draughts, and well-ventilated.

The feed after farrowing should be about the same as before. After the first week larger quantities are necessary for the sow in order to maintain the pigs properly. When the pigs are weaned, the feed of the sow should be cut down to check the flow of milk. Oats is recommended for that purpose.

Feeding the pigs. The young pigs will learn to eat at about three weeks of age. At this time if the pigs can be fed separately from the sow better results will be obtained. Skim-milk, middlings and soaked corn are recommended.

Young pigs should be given opportunity for exercise but should be sheltered from cold winds or hot sun. Young pigs may be weaned at from 8 to 10 weeks. Avoid too heavy feeding at first.

Pasture-fed pigs may be given one-fourth of a pound of tankage, or one and one-half to two pounds of skim-milk or buttermilk per day; one-half pound of middlings may be added to the above ration. Adding bran or finely ground oats to the middlings will prevent constipation in case the middlings are too fine and floury.

What corn is readily cleaned up may be fed at the age of three months or a little earlier if skim-milk is being fed. The pigs should be fed four times a day at first and then three times. As the pigs grow older the corn and middlings may be increased, but at no time should corn alone be fed.

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Markets. The successful stock man is the one who is familiar with market requirements and tries to meet them. Every pig club member should know something of the market classes and grades of hogs. These differ somewhat according to local conditions, but in a general way the classification used on the Chicago market may be taken as a standard.

Heavy hogs are no longer at a premium except when the price of lard is high. They contain a large amount of fat. The various grades of hogs in the several classes indicate the degree to which they have attained to the standard of perfection, prime being the highest grade, and common and inferior the lowest grades.

Butcher hogs are commonly used for fresh meat trade. They are principally barrows.

The term packing refers to the use to which this class of hogs is commonly put. They are inferior to butcher hogs and are cut up, cured, and packed in boxes and barrels. Mixed packing hogs are those marketed without grading. Speculators often buy them up and grade them.

The meat of pigs is unsuitable for curing and supplies part of the demand for cheap, fresh meat.

Bacon hogs quoted on the Chicago market are not the bacon hogs which furnish the Wiltshire sides. They are lard hogs that are not highly finished, have a high per cent of lean meat, and supply the demand for lean pork.

Stags are males castrated too late in life to grade as barrows. Boars are used for sausage and supply cheap fresh meat.

The present demand is for hogs weighing from 200 to 250 pounds, and the hog raiser should aim to finish and market his hogs at about these weights.

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Market Classes and Grades

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NOTEBOOK QUESTIONS

(Write brief answers on notebook pages.)

1. Why is hog raising such a popular form of live-stock production on the farm?

2. In what important respects has the domestic pig been improved from the wild hog?

3. What are the chief differences between the bacon-type and lard-type of hog?

4. What are the characteristics of a good brood sow? Of a good boar?

5. Name the standard breeds of swine in this country.

6. What is your favorite breed and why?

7. What are some of the feeds supplementary to corn in productive swine feeding?

8. Give some reasons why swine should be sheltered. What are the essentials of a good piggery?

9. Name five things you consider essential in the care of the brood sow.

10. List some interesting hog habits.

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APPENDIX

A Model Constitution, with Suggestions for Parliamentary Procedure[8]

CONSTITUTION

Article I. The name of this organization shall be the ____ (School, township, county, etc.) Club.

Article II. The object of this club is to increase the agricultural, educational, and social advantages of ____ (Name of geographical unit) through home projects, entertainments, lectures, fairs, exhibits, etc.

Article III. All boys and girls living in ____ (Geographical unit) between the ages of 10 and 18 years shall be eligible for membership.

Article IV. Sec. 1. The officers of this club shall consist of a president, a vice-president, a secretary, and a treasurer.

Sec. 2. A majority vote shall constitute an election.

Article V. Roberts’ Rules of Order shall govern the meetings of the club.

Article VI. The order of business for all regular meetings shall be as follows.

• 1. Call to order.
• 2. Roll call.
• 3. Reading of minutes of last meeting.
• 4. Addition or corrections to the minutes.
• 5. Reports of committees.
• 6. Old business.
• [50]7. New business.
• 8. Considering new names for membership.
• 9. Literary program.
• 10. Recreation or refreshments.
• 11. Adjournment.

Article VII. Committees for special purposes may be appointed by the president at any time.

BY-LAWS

Article I. The club motto shall be “To make the BEST, BETTER,” and the club emblem shall be a four-leaf clover bearing an H on each leaf.

Article II. The officers shall be elected by ballot at the annual election in ____ (Month) of each year.

Article III. The regular meeting of the club shall take place at ____ (Name of building) on the ____. (Day of the month)

Article IV. Sec. 1. A quorum shall consist of ____ (Usually two-thirds) of the membership of the club.

Sec. 2. This constitution may be amended by a vote of ____ (Two-thirds) of the members present at any regular meeting.

PARLIAMENTARY PRACTICE HINTS AND SUGGESTIONS

a. Always address the president as Mr. or Miss President.

b. All remarks should be addressed to the president.

c. There should be no talking between members.

d. The president should recognize the person who seeks the floor by saying: “Mr. or Miss ____.”

e. This indicates that the person thus recognized has the privilege of speaking (of the floor) and must not be interrupted.

f. The only interruptions allowable are (1) a call for a point of order, or (2) a question.

g. A point of order applies to a member who has made a motion which is out of order because of another motion before the meeting, or to a member whose remarks are not on the subject under consideration, or to a person who is exceeding[51] the time limit for discussion, etc. A point of order is executed as follows:

Member rising while another is speaking: “Mr. President, I rise to a point of order.”

The president will then recognize the speaker as follows: “Mr. ____, please state your point of order.”

Member who has interrupted speaker: “Mr. President, the speaker, Mr. ____ (Interrupted member’s name) is out of order because his remarks are not on the subject under consideration (or is out of order because there is another motion before the meeting).”

President: “The chair decides that the point is (or is not) well taken.”

Whereupon the interrupted speaker takes his seat or makes an appeal from the decision of the chair as follows:

Interrupted speaker: “Mr. President, I appeal from the decision of the Chair.”

President: “Mr. ____ appeals from the decision of the chair. As many as are in favor of sustaining the decision of the chair will make manifest by saying ‘Aye;’ contrary-minded, ‘No.’”

The motion is (or is not) carried.

If the motion is carried, and the decision of the chair is thus sustained, the interrupted speaker has no further recourse and must take his seat. If, however, the motion is lost and the decision of the chair is not sustained, the speaker may continue to speak.

Question. The speaker may be interrupted by any member for the purpose of asking a question. This question may be one of personal privilege or may be for the purpose of gaining information about the subject under discussion. The execution of this motion may proceed as follows:

Member taking floor while another member is speaking: “Mr. President, I rise to a question of information.”

Presiding officer: “State your question.”

Member: “Do I understand the speaker to mean that ____ etc.?”

The speaker then proceeds to give the information desired, and the meeting proceeds.

In case of a question of personal privilege the process is as follows:

Member, rising and interrupting speaker: “Mr. President, I rise to a question of personal privilege.”

Presiding officer: “State your question.”

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Member: “Mr. President, this room is too warm for comfort, and I therefore ask to have the windows opened.”

In either case the presiding officer may rule for or against the person asking the question.

h. Never offer a motion by saying, “I move you—,” but simply with “I move, etc.”

i. Never offer a motion while another motion is still before the meeting.

j. Before any matter is voted upon the presiding officer must state the motion fully and completely.

k. The ordinary form of voting upon regular motions is as follows: Presiding officer: “All in favor of this motion say ‘Aye’ (a short pause for the vote); contrary, ‘No.’” The presiding officer then announces the result by saying: “The motion is carried,” or “The motion is lost.”

l. Motions for question of privilege or point of order take precedence over all other motions.

m. Never attempt to place too many amendments to a motion. (Two are allowable; that is, an amendment to an amendment.) It is usually much better to offer a substitute motion.

n. A motion may not be put to a vote of the meeting until it has been seconded or supported by some member other than the one making the motion.

o. In case of tie votes the president or presiding officer decides the motion.

p. A motion to adjourn the meeting is in order at any time.

In addition to these simple rules which may serve for the beginning of the club’s activities, each club library should contain a modern work on parliamentary practice.

DUTIES OF THE OFFICERS

The President

1. Calls the meetings to order.

2. Announces the order of business.

3. Puts all questions and motions.

4. Decides points of order.

5. Decides the votes.

6. Calls another member to the chair if he or she wishes to take part in the debate.

The Vice-President

1. Performs all the duties of the president in case he or she is absent.

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The Secretary

1. Keeps the minutes of all meetings.

2. Handles all correspondence.

3. Sends or posts notices for meetings.

4. Reads the minutes of the previous meetings.

5. Acts as chairman in case both president and vice-president are absent.

The Treasurer

1. Collects all dues and moneys.

2. Keeps an account of all moneys collected and paid out.

3. Pays bills when ordered by the president or secretary.

Suggestive Programs for Agricultural Clubs

The programs for club meetings will depend largely on the type of project, the time to be devoted to meetings, and the originality of the leader. There should be something for everyone to do; each individual should have some share in each club meeting.

The general program might divide itself into: (1) project; (2) business, literary, and demonstration; (3) social. No one of these three divisions can be carried on exclusive of the others. The projects will have their stories, the literary programs will sometimes include project demonstrations, while the social spirit should always be present.

It would be well to combine as much of a “do” program as possible with the literary work. Demonstrations, “stunts,” and contests always add interest. Do not forget that music is always a welcome addition to a club program. The following suggestions are given merely to assist the club in arranging for the year’s work. Further suggestions may be obtained by studying the programs of projects other than yours. Meetings should be held at least once a month, perhaps oftener at certain seasons of the year. They may be[54] held in the schoolhouse Friday afternoon, and the young pupils and others, not members of the club, may be guests. Occasional evening meetings with social features and refreshments should be held.

In the conduct of club meetings a good club leader (or teacher) will remain in the background as much as possible, permitting the officers of the club to conduct the meeting. Parents, patrons, members of the advisory committee, and outside speakers should have a place on certain programs, but it should ever be borne in mind that the club is for boys and girls, and care should be exercised that the adults do not crowd them off the programs. A club will be far more successful if it succeeds in stimulating its own members to take part in club meetings, than if it merely fills up its programs with outside speakers.

In connection with the club meetings, visits should be made to places where actual club work can be observed. The corn plat, the pig pen, and the garden should be utilized in this connection. Observation trips and “hikes” should be taken to observe ideal conditions on farms or in homes.

General Program

ORGANIZATION

(1) Roll call.

Talks on:

• Purpose of organization.
• How we are connected with other organizations.
• What others will do for us.
• What we will do for ourselves.
• What we will do for others.
• How we are going to make our club a success.

Discussions of assignments for months.

Discussion of record books.

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Pig Club Programs

(1) Roll call, answered by naming breeds or breed characteristics.

Talks on:

• Origin of swine.
• Characteristics of lard hog.
• Characteristics of bacon hog.

Demonstration: Locating and naming parts of a hog from a drawing, picture, or chart

(2) Roll call, answered by names of prominent breeders.

Talks on:

• History of Duroc-Jersey.
• History of Poland China.
• History of Chester White.
• History of Berkshire.
• History of Hampshire.

(3) Roll call, answered by naming essentials for a healthy herd.

Talks on:

• Mineral matter in the ration.
• Sanitary hog houses.
• Individual hog houses vs. the colony hog house.
• Dipping hogs.

Demonstration: Making an individual hog house, using blackboard or model.

(4) Roll call, answered by naming forage crops suitable for swine.

Talks on:

• Alfalfa pasture.
• Rape.
• Other kinds of pasture.

(5) Roll call, answered by naming feeds suitable for swine.

Talks on:

• Home grown feeds.
• Feeds that must be purchased.

Demonstration: Blackboard explanation of nutritive ratio of a feed or a ration.

(6) Judging contest: Each member to place three hogs.

(Basis of award: placing, 50; reasons, 50.)

[56]

References on Pigs

(Books)

• Productive Swine Husbandry—Day. No. 1.
• Swine in America—Coburn. No. 2.
• The Hog Book—Dawson. No. 3.
• Manual of Farm Animals—Harper. No. 4.
• Pigs for Profit—Walker. No. 5.
• Swine—Dietrich. No. 6.
• Feeds and Feeding—Henry and Morrison. No. 7.
• Judging Farm Animals—Plumb. No. 8.
• Principles and Practices of Judging Live Stock—Gay. No. 9.

(Bulletins)

• Bul. 109. The Location, Construction, and Operation of Hog Houses. Agr. Exp. Sta., Urbana, Ill. No. 10.
• Bul. 147. Pork Production. Agr. Exp. Sta., Lincoln, Neb. No. 11.
• Bul. 124. Fattening Hogs in Nebraska. Agr. Exp. Sta., Lincoln, Neb. No. 12.
• Bul. 136. Forage Crops for Swine. Agr. Exp. Sta., Ames, Ia. No. 13.
• Bul. 143. Hogging Down Corn—A Successful Practice. Agr. Exp. Sta., Ames, Ia. No. 14.
• Bul. 110. Forage Crop Rotations for Pork Production. Agr. Exp. Sta., Columbia, Mo. No. 15.
• Farmers’ Bul. 205. U. S. Dept. of Agr., Washington, D. C. No. 16.

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PART IV
THE HOME PROJECT NOTEBOOK

Pig Raising Project Record

Pig Project Study Outline[9]

The following outline may serve as a guide to each pupil in the study of his project, or it may be used by the class as a whole in their discussion of the subject: (Each pupil should write the answers to the questions.)

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• I. Shall I raise pigs for my project?
• 1. Do I like pigs?
• 2. Is this section suited to the profitable production of pork?
• 3. Do pigs fit in well with our farm management plan?
• 4. Is cholera or any other disease likely to prevent profits?
• II. What shall be my aim in raising pigs?
• 1. Shall I feed one or more pigs during the summer to market in the fall or winter?
• 2. Shall I aim toward building up a pure-bred herd for breeding purposes?
• 3. Shall I make a combination of the aims above?
• III. How shall I get a start?
• 1. Shall I buy one or more young pigs?
• 2. Shall I buy a sow which has been bred?
• 3. Shall I buy pure-bred pigs or grades?
• 4. What breed shall I buy?
• 5. Do I know the points of a good pig?
• IV. Can I give breeding animals proper management?
• 1. Do I know how to manage the boar and sow at breeding time?
• 2. Can I give a brood sow the proper care?
• 3. Can I manage sow and pigs properly at farrowing time?
• V. How shall I care for young pigs?
• 1. What attention do they need before weaning?
• 2. What care and feed shall I give them after weaning?
• 3. What is the best method of weaning?
• 4. Shall I allow my pigs to run in a pasture, or shall I feed them in a pen?
• 5. What crops shall I raise for my growing pigs?
• 6. What special care will my pigs need in summer?
• VI. How shall I fatten my pigs for market?
• 1. What records shall I keep that I may know how much the pork I am producing will cost?
• 2. At what age will fattening for the market be most profitable?
• 3. What is the most satisfactory ration I may feed for fattening?
• 4. What methods of feeding shall I use?
• VII. How shall I care for my pigs during the winter?
• 1. What is the most satisfactory method of feeding for maintenance during the winter?
• 2. What special care will my pigs need in winter?
• VIII. What kind of hog house shall I build?
• 1. What factors shall I keep in mind in building a hog house?
• 2. Can I afford an elaborate house?
• 3. Can I make a plan for such a house as I need and build it?
• [59]IX. How can I prevent disease?
• 1. Do I appreciate the importance of cleanliness and sanitation?
• 2. Will I give the pigs a chance to keep clean?
• 3. Do I know how to prevent such common ailments as scours, worms, and lice?
• 4. Do I know the nature of hog cholera, how to handle a case of infection, and how to prevent such infection?

The pupil is urged to answer all questions, make all records, describe all operations, and give all results called for in the calendar of monthly activities on the following notebook pages.

Registration Record

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History and Description of the Breed Selected

Feed Record

Each time any feed is weighed out the kind and weight should be entered below. By weighing out a sack of feed or several bushels of grain at a time, this can be simplified. (Use the standard prices in figuring cost of feed, pasture, grazing crops, and waste.)

Give Record for Wastes in Space Below.

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Record of Weights by Months

If scales can not be obtained, all except the first and last weights of the pig may be estimated.

Standard Prices of Feeds to Be Used in Keeping Records

Write to your state club leader for the standard prices to be used for feeds. If such are not available, use local prices which may be obtained from elevators,[65] feed stores, or local papers. For purposes of comparison feed prices should be uniform for a club or class.

Financial Statement and Summary

[66]

Answers to Notebook Questions

[71]

The Story of My Pig

Use the following questions as suggestions in writing your story. Use some other title if you prefer:

Why are you a Pig Club member?

How did you get your pig?

What did you name your pig and why?

Why did you select this breed?

Why are pastures or green crops important in pig raising?

Did your pig drink much water?

How did you weigh your pig?

How did you feed your pig?

When did you feed your pig?

What did you feed your pig?

How did you spend your time with your pig?

Did your pig become a pet?

Who visited you and told you how to care for your pig?

What did you see and learn at the pig show and prize contest?

Why are well-bred pigs better than scrubs?

What are you planning to do in the Pig Club work next year?

What have you learned about pigs?

What kind of a boy makes a good Pig Club member?

[72]

The Story of My Pig

[79]

Reference Reading I Have Done

(References are numbered on last page of this book.)