Title: Santa Fe Sketch Book: History and Sketches of the City Different
Author: Lewis Edward Ewen
Release date: April 30, 2019 [eBook #59397]
Language: English
Credits: Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
HISTORY
AND SKETCHES
OF THE CITY DIFFERENT
Published by Ewen Enterprises
During the 1600’s, the Santa Fe Plaza extended to the approximate position of the present Cathedral.
All official, religious, and military functions of Santa Fe took place in the Plaza, around which were the government buildings, the jail, customs house and the residences of prominent citizens. The center of the Plaza was a market place and the scene of social meetings, fiestas, and cock fights and also the location of the public stock and flogging post.
In 1884 Governor Martinez de Lejanza erected a wooden bullring in the Plaza but it was torn down a few months later after it had served as an ambush for the Ute Indians who attempted an attack on the Palace and the Governor. It was in the Plaza that the Pueblo Indians revolted against the Spanish rule in 1680; it was here they capitulated to General Don Diego De Vargas in 1693. The Plaza was also the end of the Old Santa Fe Trail from Missouri and El Camino Real from Chihuahua.
The Cathedral of St. Francis stands prominent at the east end of San Francisco Street in Santa Fe. Long a dream of world famous Archbishop John B. Lamy, the Cathedral became a reality (1869-1886). The bishop himself chose the unusual stone and because certain pioneer Santa Fe merchants were so helpful with time and money, he allowed a stone marked with the Star of David to be placed in the center arch of the main doorway.
As a commemoration of the Reconquest, and to honor the vow of De Vargas in 1693, a yearly procession carries the wooden statue of the Saint La Conquistadora to the Rosario Chapel, and back, from the Cathedral.
Museum of Navajo Ceremonial Art
Like Santa Fe is “different”, so are its museums. The Museum of Navajo Ceremonial Art, conceived and founded in 1937 by Miss Mary Cabot Wheelright, serves to preserve the art, culture and religion of the Navajo Indian race. Most famous are the sand paintings.
Museum of International Folk Art
The Museum of International Folk Art displays, exhibits, holds lectures and demonstrates folk art and crafts from many countries and regions of the world.
This cluster of distinctive buildings are located off the old Santa Fe Trail.
Laboratory of Anthropology
Another unit of the museums of New Mexico is the Laboratory of Anthropology. Primarily a research center, the museum houses a collection of Indian pottery, textiles and jewelry.
THE OLDEST CHURCH STILL IN USE IN THE U.S. IS THE SAN MIGUEL CHAPEL. One can feel the original adobe altar, walls and floor of this structure built in 1610 by the Tlaxcala Indians under the direction of the Franciscan Padres.
Restored, and hanging in the church are many fine old paintings, Icons and excellent wood carvings.
The oldest bell in USA is there for anyone to touch and ring. The six-hundred-year old bell was brought from Spain having been cast in 1356. The casting contains silver and gold from the jewelry, rings and necklaces of the faithful from the village of San Jose, Andalucia, Spain. A Santa Fean, Senora Loreta Baca Ortiz, ordered the famous bell to be brought to San Miguel Chapel in 1712.
Now a series of quaint shops, the original Sena Plaza was the house of the Don Jose’ Sena family. The family occupied this vast structure with main house, coach house, stable, chicken house and servants quarters; all around an interesting central patio.
Fine Arts Building of the Museum of New Mexico
Note the inspiring flowing style of the FINE ARTS MUSEUM, on the Plaza in Santa Fe. The massive facade has six of the ancient Franciscan mission churches reproduced; all without destroying the unity of its appearance. They are: Acoma, San Felipe, Cochiti, Laguna, Santa Ana and Pecos.
A central patio has shady cloisters, carved corbels and primitive pillars and vigas.
Other historical and architectural features include the ceilings, floors, benches, carvings of the grills, the reproduction of the doors of Santa Clara and the Needle’s Eye, along with the great painting of St. Francis—all truly a work of art to display great art treasure.
Museum Courtyard
High upon a hill overlooking Santa Fe is the CROSS OF THE MARTYRS, erected in honor of the twenty-one Franciscan Padres who died at the hands of the Indians on August 10, 1680.
Towering high over the State Capitol building complex of Texas Territorian style is this unique tower.
Almost every house is historic, and each one houses either a craftsman or a well known artist, or a shop; along this world-known road that is called Canyon Road in Santa Fe. Originally an Indian trail leading to the Pueblo of Pecos.
El Zaguan the charming old hacienda with the long passageway from the house-to-the-patio-to-the-garden. A garden laid out by Adolph Bandelier with peony bushes and horse-chestnut trees over 100 years old.
Originally the James L. Johnson place in 1849, it became 24 rooms with a private chapel and a “chocolate room”.
Within a mere 20 minutes from the Santa Fe Plaza you ski at 11,000 feet altitude in dry crisp air on a carpet of powdered snow which is often 5 to 10 feet deep. The Ski Basin is a “top” ski center with all modern facilities.
Totally opposite to the expected, in Santa Fe, is the Internationally famous Opera under the stars in a fabulous mountain setting. The setting, the costumes, the performers, the music—all leave you spellbound with admiration ... and all this in Santa Fe!
It is said that a carpenter, who must have been a Saint, built the “Miraculous Stairway” at Our Lady of Light Chapel in Santa Fe. The carpenter used no nails in this stairway with no visible means of support—then he disappeared and has not been heard from since.
Our Lady of Light Chapel which houses the Miraculous Stairway.
Over 200,000 hand-made mud bricks were used to build the imposing Cristo Rey Church in Santa Fe. Housed within is the stone reredos, which were originally commissioned by Gov. Marin del Valle in 1760.
Massive on the outside, the interior is elegant in extreme detail.
Courtyard of the Donaciano Vigil House
This hidden courtyard has unusual charm acquired with age. It is part of the original Donaciano Vigil house of the 1830’s. Vigil was Secretary to Gov. Manuel Armijo during the Mexican regime, as Secretary of New Mexico under Gov. Kearney in 1846, and later as Civil Governor among other prominent positions.
Stately and historic, the Palace of the Governors on the Plaza in old Santa Fe was part of extensive Casa Reales as constructed in 1610-12 as the larger portion of a fortress and house of government for the Kingdom of New Mexico under Spanish rule.
Now, officially the Museum of New Mexico, it houses a magnificent collection of early Spanish and Indian artifacts and The Hall of the Modern Indian, to the rear of the patio, has an entire Pueblo reconstruction.
These venerable walls housed the governments of the Pueblo Indians from 1680 to the DeVargas Reconquest, the Spanish Empire 1610-1680 and 1693-1821; The Empire of Mexico 1821-1822; the Republic of Mexico 1823-1846; the U.S. Territory of New Mexico 1846-1900, and for a short time in 1862 for the U.S. Confederate Army.
Under The Portal
The wide, long, Portal of the Palace of the Governors where the Pueblo Indians display and sell their crafts.
Chapel of Archbishop Lamy
The Bishop’s Chapel, north of Santa Fe, built for Archbishop John Lamy, and featured in the book, “Death Comes for the Archbishop” by Willa Cather.
Restful beauty immortalizing the man and his mission.
St. John’s College
St. John’s College, in Santa Fe, the western campus of the parent 238 year old Annapolis, Md. College of great high learning. St. John’s offers a rare adventure in liberal education to ambitious young men and women.
Santa Fe Preparatory School
The headmaster of the Santa Fe Preparatory School explains that this outstanding prep. school offers grades 7, 8, 9, 10 and later 11 and 12 for solid basic preparatory education for both boys and girls.
St. Michael’s College
Dynamic growing St. Michael’s College on the south end of Santa Fe, founded by the Brothers of the Christian Schools. St. Michael’s is open to male students seeking B.A., B.B.A. and B.S. Degrees, plus a professional curricula in engineering, medicine, dentistry, law and teaching.
Indian Dances
The same original Indian Dances of religious and cultural significance are held at various times of the year at the many Pueblos of New Mexico. (Consult the local Chamber of Commerce for dates.)
NEARBY TESUQUE PUEBLO (Spanish for Town), north of Santa Fe, is little changed since the 1600’s. The adobe church, adobe houses and Kiva, the round bake ovens—all could tell of the great generations gone before, and the hundreds that danced the ground hard and firm.
Apache Canyon, scene of cavalry charge of the “Pikes Peaker,” March 1862.
The old Pigeon ranch. A critical engagement took place here on March 28, 1862.
A series of Civil War skirmishes along Apache Canyon, March 27-28, 1862, between Texas Mounted Volunteers and Union Troops, mostly Colorado Volunteers, climaxed with a decisive battle at Pigeon’s Ranch and the burning of Confederate supply wagons at Canoncita, brought a swift end to Southern hopes for taking over New Mexico. The battle saved the West for the Union.
WOW! After Zozobra burns (Old Man Gloom), the Fiesta starts!
Proclaimed, originally, by General DeVargas as a celebration to show gratitude for successful reconquest of Santa Fe, this great colorful Fiesta has been proclaimed every year and joyous confusion happens every Fall.
No matter how you say it, rodeo, or the Spanish Ro-day-O, rodeo days in Santa Fe are exciting for young and old for all take part in this great western event.
As a Santa Fean you are literally only minutes away from a rushing stream, tall timber and a cool breeze when you take the trail up the Sangre de Cristo Mountains to Hyde State Park where facilities are at hand for camping, nature trails, or just to photograph nature in the raw. Up ahead is the National Forest and mighty wild country if you venture off the road.
Pecos Wilderness does still have all the wildness of the old west, but with all the beauty and facilities for hunting, camping, fishing—you name it!
One of the most magnificent ruins in New Mexico. Located 26 miles southeast of Santa Fe, this mission was constructed in 1617 and prospered until the 1800’s. Repeated raids by the Apaches and Comanches cut down the population until 1828 when the last 17 survivors abandoned their ancestral home and went to Jemez Pueblo to join their kinfolk there. The Pecos Pueblo and Mission ruins are now a State Monument.
The Penitentes
Up Truchas town way look for weather beaten crosses along the road, or out on the hills and you will know you are in Penitente country. These very religious people followed Christ in a “true” way at each Easter time.
The Sanctuario de Chimayo
The El Santuario Mission church is not only a picturesque structure, but it is also famed for its chamber of healing mud; a Lourdes of New Mexico.
The famous Chimayo rugs and blankets are woven in this area.
The sun-drenched ghost town of Los Cerrillos, (Little Hills) lies quiet today, but it was host to many notables like Theodore Roosevelt and Lew Wallace, a former Governor of N.M. and who also wrote “Ben Hur”.
When gold was discovered in the 1800’s Cerillos was a whangdoodle western wide-open town. It hadn’t changed much over the years to 1958 when Walt Disney came and filmed the “Nine Lives of Elfego Baca” using the main Saloon which still stands today, in the same old way.
Nature formed this “Camel Rock” located along the highway north of Santa Fe. Children clamor over the sandstone formation, and artists and photographers take its image home.
Wherever you wander, along the narrow twisting streets of old Santa Fe, you’ll encounter interesting doorways.
The Santa Fe Trail ends at the Plaza in old Santa Fe, and a big bronze plaque proclaims the spot, but even today you can back-track over the trail and still see the wagon wheel impressions in many areas where those hearty pioneers came across country. They came to trade and seek their fortune in Santa Fe, the enchanting city even then, and as different then, as it is today.
Old Santa Fe—End of Santa Fe Trail
While oxen and covered wagons plied the Santa Fe Trail in the early days, much of that trail is now paved and the road bears that same name.
And so, Adios Amigos and come often to the true Land of Enchantment and the City Different of Santa Fe.