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Title: Captain Cook's Journal During the First Voyage Round the World

Author: James Cook

Release Date: May, 2005 [EBook #8106]
[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule]
[This file was first posted on June 15, 2003]

Edition: 10

Language: English

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD ***




Produced by Sue Asscher




CAPTAIN COOK'S JOURNAL.

FIRST VOYAGE.

(PLATE: PORTRAIT OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK WITH A FACSIMILE OF HIS SIGNATURE.
Collotype, Waterlow & Sons Ltd.)

CAPTAIN COOK'S JOURNAL

DURING HIS

FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD

MADE IN

H.M. BARK "ENDEAVOUR"

1768-71

A Literal Transcription of the Original MSS.

WITH

NOTES AND INTRODUCTION

EDITED BY

CAPTAIN W.J.L. WHARTON, R.N., F.R.S.
Hydrographer of the Admiralty.

Illustrated by Maps and Facsimiles.

LONDON
ELLIOT STOCK, 62 PATERNOSTER ROW
1893

43931

DEDICATED BY PERMISSION

TO

ADMIRAL H.R.H. THE DUKE OF EDINBURGH,

K.G., ETC.,

WHOSE DEEP INTEREST IN ALL MATTERS CONNECTED WITH
THE RISE AND PROGRESS OF THE BRITISH NAVY
IS WELL KNOWN TO ALL WHO HAVE HAD
THE PRIVILEGE OF SERVING WITH HIM.


PREFACE.

STRANGE it must appear that the account of perhaps the most celebrated
and, certainly to the English nation, the most momentous voyage of
discovery that has ever taken place--for it practically gave birth to the
great Australasian Colonies--has never before been given to the world in
the very words of its great leader. It has fallen out in this wise.

After the return of the Endeavour it was decided that a full and
comprehensive account of the voyage should be compiled. COOK'S JOURNAL
dealt with matters from the point of view of the seaman, the explorer,
and the head of the expedition, responsible for life, and for its general
success. The Journals of Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander looked from the
scientific side on all that presented itself to their enthusiastic
observation.

What could be better than to combine these accounts, and make up a
complete narrative from them all?

The result, however, according to our nineteenth-century ideas, was not
altogether happy. Dr. Hawkesworth, into whose hands the Journals were
put, not only interspersed reflections of his own, but managed to impose
his own ponderous style upon many of the extracts from the united
Journals; and, moreover, as they are all jumbled together, the whole
being put into Cook's mouth, it is impossible to know whether we are
reading Cook, Banks, Solander, or Hawkesworth himself.

The readers of the day were not, however, critical. Hawkesworth's book,*
(* "Hawkesworth's Voyages" 3 volumes quarto 1773.) which undoubtedly
contains all the most generally interesting passages of the three
writers, gave a clear description of the events of the voyage in a
connected manner, and was accepted as sufficient; and in the excitement
of devouring the pages which introduced so many new lands and peoples,
probably few wished for more, and the Journals were put away as dealt
with.

Since that time it has been on several occasions in contemplation to
publish Mr. (after Sir Joseph) Banks' Journal; but this has never been
accomplished.

Cook's Journal was in triplicate. The Admiralty Orders of the day
enjoined that the captain should keep a journal of proceedings, a copy of
which was to be forwarded to the Admiralty every six months, or as soon
after as possible. In the case of this voyage the ship was two and a half
years from England before any opportunity of sending this copy occurred.
The ship was the whole of this time in new and savage lands. When Batavia
was reached the duplicate of Cook's Journal was sent home, and six months
later, when the ship arrived in England, the full Journal of the voyage
was deposited at the Admiralty.

The Secretary of the Admiralty, Sir Philip Stephens, a personal friend
and appreciator of Cook, appears to have appropriated the Batavia
duplicate, as we find it in the hands of his descendants, and passing
thence by sale, first to Mr. Cosens in 1868, and then in 1890 to Mr. John
Corner.

The other and complete copy is still in possession of the Admiralty,
though in some unexplained manner it was absent for some years, and was
only recovered by the exertions of Mr. W. Blakeney, R.N.

A third copy of the Journal also terminates a few days before reaching
Batavia. It is in the possession of Her Majesty the Queen, and from its
appearance was kept for, and probably presented to, George III, who took
great interest in the voyage.

Neither private possessors nor the Admiralty have felt moved to publish
this interesting document until Mr. Corner acquired his copy, when, being
an enthusiastic admirer of Captain Cook, he determined to do so, and was
making preliminary arrangements, when he suddenly died, after a few
hours' illness. His son, anxious to carry out his father's wishes, which
included the devotion of any proceeds to the restoration of Hinderwell
Church--the parish church of Staithes, whence Cook ran away to sea--has
completed these arrangements, and the present volume is the result.

The text is taken from Mr. Corner's copy so far as it goes, paragraphs
from the Admiralty copy, which do not appear in the former, being added,
with a notation of their source.

The last portion, from October 23rd, 1770, which is only given in the
Admiralty copy, is necessarily taken from it.

The three copies are, practically, identical, except for the period
August 13th to 19th, 1770, during which the wording is often different,
though the events are the same.

It is not very difficult to account for this.

The two first-mentioned Journals are in the handwriting of an amanuensis,
Mr. Orton, the clerk. No autograph journal is, so far as is known, in
existence, but some rough original must have been kept, as both copies
bear internal evidence of having been written up after the lapse of an
interval after the events described.

This is markedly the case in the Australian part of the Journal.

It is known that Botany Bay was at first called by Cook, Stingray Bay, on
account of the number of rays caught there; but after Banks had examined
his collection, and found all his plants new to science, Cook determined
to call it Botany Bay. It is, however, called Botany Bay from the first
in the Journals.

The name, "New South Wales," was not bestowed without much consideration,
and apparently at one stage New Wales was the appellation fixed upon, for
in Mr. Corner's copy it is so called throughout, whereas the Admiralty
copy has "New South Wales."

It would therefore seem that about the period of the discrepant accounts
Mr. Corner's copy was first made, and that Cook, in the Admiralty copy,
which for this part is fuller, revised the wording of his description of
this very critical portion of the voyage.

The Queen's Copy has been written with especial care, and by several
different hands. It was evidently the last in point of time.

In reading COOK'S JOURNAL of his First Voyage it must be remembered that
it was not prepared for publication. Though no doubt the fair copies we
possess were revised with the care that characterises the man, and which
is evidenced by the interlineations and corrections in his own hand with
which the pages are dotted, it may be supposed, from the example we have
in the published account of his Second Voyage, which was edited by
himself, that further alterations and additions would have been made, to
make the story more complete, had he contemplated its being printed.

This does not, however, in any way detract from the interest of a
transcript of his record on the spot; and though many circumstances
recorded in Hawkesworth, from Banks or others, will not be found, it is
probable that an exact copy of the great navigator's own impressions, and
the disentanglement of them from the other interpolated matter, will be
welcome.

In printing this Journal the only alterations that have been made are the
breaking-up into chapters, with modern headings; the addition of
punctuation; and in the form of the insertion of the daily record of
wind, weather, and position of the ship. These in the original are on the
left hand page in log form. To save space they have been placed at the
end of every day's transactions.

The eccentricities in the spelling have been preserved. A good many of
these would seem to be due to Mr. Orton, the transcriber, as Cook's own
letters are generally correct in their orthography. The use of the
capital letter was usual at the time.

References will be found to sketches and plans which have not been
reproduced.

Cook's knack of finding names for localities was peculiarly happy. Those
who have had to do this, know the difficulty. Wherever he was able to
ascertain the native name, he adopts it; but in the many cases where this
was impossible, he manages to find a descriptive and distinctive
appellation for each point, bay, or island.

He seems to have kept these names very much to himself, as it is seldom
the officers' logs know anything of them; and original plans, still in
existence, in many cases bear different names to those finally pitched
upon.

Cook's names have rarely been altered, and New Zealand and Australian
places will probably for all time bear those which he bestowed.

In the orthography of his native names he was not so successful. The
constant addition of a redundant "o" has altered many native sounds, such
as Otaheite for Tahiti, Ohwhyhee for Hawaii; while his spelling generally
has been superseded by more simple forms. This is a matter, however, in
which great difficulties are found to the present day by Englishmen,
whose language presents no certain laws for rendering any given sound
into a fixed combination of letters.

Cook's language is unvarnished and plain, as a sailor's should be. His
incidents, though often related with circumstance, are without
exaggeration; indeed if any fault is to be found, it is that he takes
occurrences involving much labour and hardship as such matters of course,
that it is not easy for the reader, especially if he be a landsman, to
realise what they really entail.

Cook was assiduous in obtaining observations to ascertain the Variation
of the compass--i.e., the difference between the direction shown by the
magnetic needle and the true north. He is constantly puzzled by the
discrepancies in these observations made at short intervals. These arose
from the different positions of the ship's head, whereby the iron within
a certain distance of the compass is placed in different positions as
regards the needle working the compass card, the result being that the
needle is attracted from its correct direction in varying degree. This is
known as the Deviation of the compass. The cause of this, and of the laws
which govern it, were only discovered by Captain Flinders in 1805.
Happily for the navigators of those days, little iron entered into the
construction of ships, and the amount of the Deviation was not large,
though enough to cause continual disquiet and wonderment.

Cook's longitudes in this voyage are all given as west of Greenwich, not
divided into east and west, as is usual at this day. The latter system
again has only been adopted universally since his time.

Though Cook himself gives, at the beginning of the Journal, a note of the
method of reckoning days adopted, it may not be amiss to give further
explanation here.

It was the usual custom on board ships to keep what was known as Ship
time--i.e., the day began at noon BEFORE the civil reckoning, in which
the day commences at midnight. Thus, while January 1st, as ordinarily
reckoned, is from midnight to midnight, in ship time it began at noon on
December 31st and ended at noon January 1st, this period being called
January 1st. Hence the peculiarity all through the Journal of the p.m.
coming before the a.m. It results that any events recorded as occurring
in the p.m. of January 1st in the log, would, if translated into the
ordinary system, be given as happening in the p.m. of December 31st;
while occurrences in the a.m. of January 1st would be equally in the a.m.
of January 1st in both systems.

This puzzling mode of keeping the day at sea continued to a late period,
and was common to seamen of all nations.

The astronomical day, again, begins at noon AFTER the midnight at which
the civil day begins, and hence is a whole day later than the ship's day.
This does not enter into Cook's Journal, but one of the logs of the
Endeavour, extant, that of Mr. Green the astronomer, was kept in this
time, and the events of say Thursday, June 24th, of Cook's Journal, are
therein given as happening on Wednesday, June 23rd. These differences of
reckoning have been a fertile source of confusion in dates in many
voyages.

Besides Cook's Journals there are other Journals and Logs of the voyage
extant. Perhaps it may be necessary to state that a Log is the official
document in which the progress of the ship from hour to hour is recorded,
with such official notes as the alteration in sail carried, expenditure
of provisions and stores, etc. A Journal contains this information in a
condensed form, with such observations as the officer keeping it may feel
inclined to insert.

The ship's Log Book of the Endeavour is in the British Museum. Mr. R.M.
Hudson of Sunderland possesses Cook's own log, not autograph however,
presented by Cook to Sir Hugh Palliser, the ancestor of his wife.

The Journals of all the officers of the Endeavour are preserved at the
Public Record Office. There is, however, nothing to be got out of them,
as they are mainly copies one of the other, founded on the ship's log.

The portion of Mr. Molineux's, the Master's, Log that exists (at the
Admiralty) is a most beautifully kept and written document, enriched with
charts and sketches that attest the accuracy of Cook's remark, that he
was a "young man of good parts."

The log kept by Mr. Green, however, does contain a few original remarks,
some of which have been made use of. This book contains a mass of
astronomical observations, and witnesses to the zeal of this gentleman in
his especial duty.

He records in one place, when far away from land, his disgust that the
officers were unwilling to aid him in lunar observations. No doubt they
saw no particular use in them when there was no coast to fix; but there
is ample proof that he received every aid when Cook thought it necessary.

Sufficient charts have been placed in this book to enable the reader to
follow the more interesting parts of the voyage; some being reproductions
of Cook's own charts, others modern publications. In the case of the
coast of East Australia, the coast-line as laid down by Cook, and as now
known, are given side by side for comparison.

It must be understood, that although this book is styled CAPTAIN COOK'S
JOURNAL, he was on this voyage only a Lieutenant in Command, and
therefore only Captain by courtesy.

W.J.L. WHARTON.

FLORYS, WIMBLEDON PARK,

April 7th, 1893.



CONTENTS.

SKETCH OF CAPTAIN COOK'S LIFE.

LIST OF PERSONS WHO LEFT ENGLAND IN H.M.S. ENDEAVOUR, 26TH AUGUST, 1768.

CHAPTER 1. ENGLAND TO RIO JANEIRO.

CHAPTER 2. RIO JANEIRO TO TAHITI.

CHAPTER 3. TAHITI.

CHAPTER 4. TAHITI TO NEW ZEALAND.

CHAPTER 5. EXPLORATION OF NEW ZEALAND.

CHAPTER 6. EXPLORATION OF MIDDLE ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND.

CHAPTER 7. PASSAGE FROM NEW ZEALAND TO NEW HOLLAND.

CHAPTER 8. EXPLORATION OF EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA.

CHAPTER 9. FROM TORRES STRAIT TO BATAVIA.

CHAPTER 10. BATAVIA TO CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

CHAPTER 11. CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ENGLAND.

INDEX.

[ILLUSTRATIONS.

1. PORTRAIT OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK WITH A FACSIMILE OF HIS SIGNATURE.
COLLOTYPE, WATERLOW & SONS LTD.

2. MODERN CHART OF SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN SHOWING TRACK OF H.M.S. ENDEAVOUR,
1769 TO 1770.

3. FACSIMILE OF SATURDAY, 3RD JUNE, 1769.

4. CHART OF THE ISLAND OTAHEITE, BY LIEUTENANT JAMES COOK, 1769.
REPRODUCTION OF THE ORIGINAL PUBLISHED CHART.

5. TAHITI: TYPES OF CANOES.

6. CHART OF THE SOCIETY ISLES, DISCOVERED BY LIEUTENANT JAMES COOK, 1769.
REPRODUCTION OF THE ORIGINAL PUBLISHED CHART.

7. WAR CANOE OF NEW ZEALAND.

8. TRACK OF ENDEAVOUR FROM TORRES STRAIT TO JAVA. AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER
1770.

9. FACSIMILE OF TUESDAY, 23RD OCTOBER, 1770.

10. CHART OF NEW ZEALAND, EXPLORED IN 1769 AND 1770, BY LIEUTENANT I:
COOK, COMMANDER OF HIS MAJESTY'S BARK ENDEAVOUR, ENGRAVED BY I. BAYLY.
REPRODUCTION OF THE ORIGINAL PUBLISHED CHART.

11. PRINTERS' PLATE: Owl on books, distant town, hills, tree and moon.
"REST, PRAY, SLEEP."
Elliott Stock, 62, Paternoster Row.]



SKETCH OF CAPTAIN COOK'S LIFE.

CAPTAIN COOK'S life, or the account of so much of it as is recoverable,
has been so often recounted that there is no occasion to insert more in
this publication than is necessary as a reference to the reader, to
enable him to realise the career and character of the man.

Cook's first biographer, Andrew Kippis, wrote in 1788, and his work has
recently been republished.* (* "A Narrative of the Voyage round the
World, performed by Captain James Cook, with an Account of His Life" by
A. Kippis, D.D., F.R.S. London: Bickers & Son 1889.)

The latest and best life is by Walter Besant,* (* "Captain Cook" by
Walter Besant: "English Men of Action" London, Macmillan & Co. 1890.)
whose graceful pen has given us a fascinating, interesting, and, as far
as is possible, complete picture of this great Englishman. Many details
of Cook's private life are lost, but enough has been collected by Mr.
Besant to place our hero vividly before us, and a perusal of his work is
strongly recommended.

Many things in the following sketch are taken from Mr. Besant, to whom I
wish to tender my acknowledgments.

James Cook rose from nearly the lowest ranks. The second son of James
Cook, a Yorkshire labourer, and Grace his wife, he was born on the edge
of the Cleveland Hills on February 27th, 1728, in the little village of
Marton, which lies about four miles south-south-east of Middlesborough,
and five miles west of the well-known hill and landmark, Roseberry
Topping. Eight years later his father removed to Great Ayton, which lies
close under Roseberry Topping.

At the age of thirteen Cook, who, it is recorded, had had some elementary
schooling both at Marton and Great Ayton, was apprenticed to one
Sanderson, a draper and grocer of Staithes, a fishing village on the
coast, about fourteen miles from Ayton and nine north-west of Whitby.

A year later Cook went, or ran away, to sea, shipping at Whitby on board
the Freelove, a collier belonging to the brothers Walker.

In this hard school Cook learnt his sailor duties. No better training
could have been found for his future responsibilities. Here he learnt to
endure the utmost rigours of the sea. Constant fighting with North Sea
gales, bad food, and cramped accommodation, taught him to regard with the
indifference that afterwards distinguished him, all the hardships that he
had to encounter, and led him to endure and persevere where others, less
determined or more easily daunted by difficulties, would have hurried on,
and left their work incomplete.

All details of Cook's life during his thirteen years in the merchant
service are lost: what voyages he made, how he fared, whether he advanced
in general knowledge, all is gone. The only fact known is that in May
1755, when Cook was twenty-seven years of age, and mate of a vessel of
Messrs. Walker, then in the Thames, he, to avoid the press, then active
on account of the outbreak of the war with France, volunteered on board
H.M.S. Eagle, of 60 guns, as an able seaman.

Captain Hugh Palliser, who succeeded to the command of this ship in
October, was certainly Cook's warmest patron, and it would appear that
Cook did work superior to that of an able seaman in the Eagle. Be that as
it may, all that is absolutely known is that that ship took her share of
the fighting at the taking of Louisbourg and elsewhere on the North
American and West Indian Station, and returned to England in 1759.

By Palliser's interest Cook was now appointed master of the Mercury. It
is therefore evident that his qualifications as a navigator recommended
themselves to Palliser.

The Mercury went to North America, and here Cook did his first good
service recorded, namely, taking soundings in the St. Lawrence, to enable
the fleet then attacking Quebec to take up safe positions in covering the
army under Wolfe. This he accomplished with great skill, under many
difficulties, in the face of the enemy, much of it being done at night.
He was immediately employed in making a survey of the intricate channels
of the river below Quebec, and for many years his chart was the guide for
navigation. Cook was indeed a born surveyor. Before his day charts were
of the crudest description, and he must have somehow acquired a
considerable knowledge of trigonometry, and possessed an intuitive
faculty for practically applying it, to enable him to originate, as it
may truly be said he did, the art of modern marine surveying.

The expedition to Quebec concluded, Cook was appointed master of the
Northumberland, bearing Admiral Lord Colville's flag, and during that
ship's winter at Halifax he applied himself to further study of
mathematics and astronomy.

In 1762, the Northumberland being at Newfoundland during the capture of
that island from the French, Cook again was employed in surveys. This
attracted the attention of Captain Graves, the Governor, who conceived a
high opinion of his abilities in this respect.

In the latter part of 1762 Cook returned to England and married Elizabeth
Batts, daughter of a man in business at Wapping; but a few months
afterwards he was called upon by Captain Graves to go again to
Newfoundland to make marine surveys.

In this important work he was engaged until 1767, Captain Palliser, who
succeeded Captain Graves as Governor, being only too glad to avail
himself of Cook's services.

The charts he made during these years in the schooner Grenville were
admirable. The best proof of their excellence is that they are not yet
wholly superseded by the more detailed surveys of modern times. Like all
first surveys of a practically unknown shore, and especially when that
shore abounds in rocks and shoals, and is much indented with bays and
creeks, they are imperfect, in the sense of having many omissions; but
when the amount of the ground covered, and the impediments of fogs and
bad weather on that coast is considered, and that Cook had at the most
only one assistant, their accuracy is truly astonishing. The originals of
these surveys form part of the most precious possessions of the
Hydrographic Office of the Admiralty.

We now approach the crowning achievements of Cook's life.

After many years' neglect the exploration of the Pacific was awaking
interest. This great ocean, which very few, even to this day, realise
occupies nearly one half of the surface of the globe, had been, since the
first voyage of Magellan, crossed by many a vessel.

Notwithstanding, very little was known of the islands occupying its
central portion.

For this there were two reasons. First, the comparatively small area
covered by islands; secondly, the fact that nearly all who traversed it
had followed Magellan's track, or, if they started, as many did, from
Central America, they made straight for Magellan's discovery, the Ladrone
Islands. For this, again, there was a reason.

Few sailed for the purpose of exploration pure and simple; and even those
who started with that view found, when embarked on that vast expanse,
that prudence dictated that they should have a moderate certainty of, by
a certain time, falling in with a place of sure refreshment. The
provisions they carried were bad at starting, and by the time they had
fought their way through the Straits of Magellan were already worse;
water was limited, and would not hold out more than a given number of
days. Every voyage that is pursued tells the same story--short of water,
and eagerly looking out for an opportunity of replenishing it. The winds
were found to blow in fixed directions, and each voyager was fearful of
deviating from the track on which it was known they would be fair, for
fear of delays. And ever present in each captain's mind was the dread of
the terrible scourge, scurvy. Every expedition suffered from it. Each
hoped they would be exempt, and each in turn was reduced to impotence
from its effects.

It was the great consideration for every leader of a protracted
expedition, How can I obviate this paralyzing influence? And one after
another had to confess his failure.

It is yearly becoming more difficult for us to realise these obstacles.

The prevailing winds and currents in each part of the ocean are well
known to us: the exact distance and bearing from one point to another are
laid down in the chart; steam bridges over calm areas, and in many cases
conducts us on our entire journey at a speed but little inferior to that
of land travelling by railroad; modern science preserves fresh and
palatable food for an indefinite period; and, in a word, all the
difficulties and most of the dangers of long voyages have disappeared.

Take one element alone in long voyages--the time required. The average
progress of a ship in the eighteenth century was not more than fifty
miles a day. Nowadays we may expect as much as four hundred miles in a
full powered steamer, and not less than one hundred and fifty in a
well-fitted sailing ship.

But navigation, and more especially the navigation of the unknown
Pacific, was very different in Cook's days, when all the obstacles above
mentioned impeded the explorers, and impelled them to follow a common
track.

There were a few who had deviated from the common track.

The Spaniards, Mendana, Quiros, Torres, in the latter part of the
sixteenth century, starting first from their colonies in Peru, had
ventured along the central line of the Pacific, discovering the
Marquesas, certain small coral islands, the Northern New Hebrides, and
the Solomon Islands; but their voyages, mainly for fear of Drake and his
successors, were kept so secret that no one quite knew where these
islands lay.

Abel Tasman, in 1642, coming across the Indian Ocean from the westward,
had touched at Tasmania, or, as he called it, Van Diemen's Land, had
skirted the western coast of the north island of New Zealand without
landing, and had stretched away to the north-east, and found the Tonga
Group.

The English Buccaneers were not among these discoverers; Dampier, Woods
Rogers, and others, all went from Acapulco to the Ladrones, looking out
for the valuable Spanish galleons from
Manila, and they added little or nothing to the knowledge of the Pacific
and what it contained.

It was not therefore strange that the imagination of geographers ran riot
amongst the great unknown areas. They were impressed, as they looked at
the globes of the day, with the fact that, while the northern hemisphere
contained much land, the southern showed either water or blank spaces;
and starting with the ill-founded idea that the solid land in either
hemisphere should balance, they conceived that there must be a great
unknown continent in the southern part of the Pacific to make up the
deficiency. This was generally designated Terra Australis Incognita, and
many is the ancient chart that shows it, sketched with a free and
uncontrolled hand, around the South Pole. It was held by many that Tasman
had touched it in New Zealand; that Quiros had seen it near his island of
Encarnacion, and again at Espiritu Santo (New Hebrides), but no one had
been to see.

In George III's reign the desire to know more of this unknown ocean arose
in England. The king himself took great interest in it, and for the first
time since Queen Elizabeth's age, when Davis, Frobisher, Drake,
Narborough, and others, had gone on voyages of discovery, the pursuit was
renewed.

In 1764 the Dolphin and Tamor, under the command of Commodore Byron and
Captain Mouat, sailed on a voyage round the world. They spent some time,
as ordered, in exploring the Falkland Islands, and, after a two months'
passage through Magellan Strait, they stood across the Pacific. They,
however, also followed near the well-beaten track, and passing north of
the Paumotus, of which they sighted a few small islands, they too made
for the Ladrones. As usual, they suffered much from scurvy, and the one
idea was to get to a known place to recover. Byron returned in May 1766,
having added but little to the knowledge of the Pacific, and the Dolphin
was again sent in the August of the same year, with the Swallow, under
the command of Captains Wallis and Carteret, on a similar voyage.

They did somewhat better. After the usual struggle through the long and
narrow Strait of Magellan, against the strong and contrary winds that
continually blow, and which occupied four months, they got into the
Pacific.

As they passed out they separated, the Dolphin outsailing the Swallow,
and a dispassionate reader cannot well escape the conclusion that the
senior officers unnecessarily parted company.

The Dolphin kept a little south of the usual route, fell in with some of
the Paumotu Group, and finally discovered Tahiti, where she anchored at
Royal Bay, after grounding on a reef at its entrance, with her people, as
usual, decimated by scurvy. They were almost immediately attacked by the
natives, who, however, received such a reception that they speedily made
friends, and fast friends too. The remainder of the month of the Dolphin
stay was marked with the most friendly intercourse, and she sailed with a
high opinion of Tahiti and the Tahitians; the Queen, Cook's Obereia,
being especially well disposed to them. Their communication with the
natives must, however, have been limited, as they remained too short a
time to learn the language, and we gather little of the manners and
customs from the account of the voyage.

After sailing from Tahiti we hear the same tale--sickness, want of water,
doubt of what was before them. After sailing by several small islands,
and an attempt to water at one, course was steered as before for the
Ladrones. Let Wallis tell his own story. He says:--

"I considered that watering here would be tedious and attended with great
fatigue; that it was now the depth of winter in the southern hemisphere;
that the ship was leaky, that the rudder shook in the stern very much,
and that what other damage she might have received in her bottom could
not be known. That for these reasons she was very unfit for the bad
weather which she would certainly meet with, either in going round Cape
Horn or through the Streight of Magellan; that if she should get safely
through the streight or round the Cape, it would be absolutely necessary
to refresh in some port; but in that case no port would be in her reach.
I therefore determined to make the best of my way to Tinian, Batavia, and
so to Europe by the Cape of Good Hope.

"By this rout, as far as we could judge, we should sooner be at home; and
if the ship should prove not to be in a condition to make the whole
voyage, we should still save our lives, as from this place to Batavia we
should probably have a calm sea, and be not far from a port."

These are scarcely the sentiments of a bold explorer, and we shall look
in vain for any similar ideas on the part of Cook. Here was a ship just a
year from England, just come from a convenient and friendly island, where
every refreshment and opportunity for refit were to be found, and the
only thought is how to get home again!

It was the vastly different conduct of Cook's voyages; the determination
that nothing should stop the main object of the expedition; his resource
in every difficulty and danger; that caused, and rightly caused, him to
be hailed as a born leader of such expeditions.

Wallis followed nearly on Byron's track: went from the Ladrones, through
the China Sea, to Batavia, and so home, arriving in May 1768.

The Swallow, under Captain Carteret, was navigated in a different spirit.
She was badly fitted out for such a voyage, had not even a forge, and all
the articles for trade were on board the Dolphin. But Carteret was not
easily daunted. He might, under the circumstances, when he found himself
alone, have abandoned the voyage; but he boldly went forward. Passing
from the Strait of Magellan, he touched at Juan Fernandez, and steering
somewhat south of Wallis's line, he passed south of Tahiti, discovering
Pitcairn's Island on his way, and some of the islands south of the
Paumotus.

By this time his people were severely afflicted with scurvy, and his ship
in a bad state; but Carteret only thought of getting to some place of
refreshment, from which he might afterwards pass on his voyage towards
the south, in the hope of falling in with the great southern Continent.

In this he was not fortunate. Missing all other islands, he fell across
the Santa Cruz Group, and hoping that he had found what he wanted, he
anchored and tried to water. The party were, however, attacked by the
natives, and several, including the master, were wounded and died by
poisoned arrows. All hope of a quiet refit was over, and his ship's
company being in a wretched condition, no forge or tools on board to
enable him to effect his many repairs, Carteret, who was himself very
ill, was obliged to give up all intention of exploration to the
southward. He got enough water to last him, and sailed on toward the
Solomon Islands. These he also just missed, but fell in with New Britain,
and passing between it and New Ireland, demonstrated for the first time
that these two large islands were not one, as had been supposed. He here
managed to do something to repair his leaky vessel, heeling and caulking
her, but got little but fruit for his scurvy-stricken crew. He was
attacked by the fierce islanders, and was altogether unable to do as much
as he evidently earnestly desired towards examining the islands.

Thence they struggled on by Mindanao to Makassar in Celebes, delayed by
contrary winds, disappointed of refreshments at every place they tried,
and losing men from scurvy. At Makassar they met with but an inhospitable
reception from the Dutch, who refused to permit them to receive
refreshments there, and after waiting at Bonthain, a place in Celebes,
several months, for the monsoon to change, they at last arrived at
Batavia, the only port in the Dutch Indies really open to ships, in June
1768. Thence, after heaving down and a thorough repair, they reached
home, via the Cape, on March 20th, 1769.

Of all the voyages before Cook's, Carteret's showed most determination
and true spirit of enterprise; and had his ship been better supplied, and
more suited to the exigencies of such a long cruise, he would, but for
one thing, have accomplished far more. This was the fatal disease, which
no captain had as yet succeeded in warding off, and which hampered and
defeated the efforts of the most enthusiastic. No man could go beyond a
certain point in disregarding the health of his crew.

These, then, were the kind of voyages, with their scanty fruits, to which
the English people were getting accustomed, and they were not such as to
encourage repetition.

In all the years that had elapsed since the Spaniards first sailed on the
Pacific, but little real knowledge of the lands in it had been gained.

Let us attempt to give a picture of what was known.

The Marquesas and Santa Cruz Group were known to exist; but of the
Solomons grave doubts were felt, as no man had seen them but Mendana, and
they were, if placed on a map at all, shown in very different longitudes.

Several voyagers had sighted different members of the extensive Paumotu
Group, but the varying positions caused great confusion.

Tahiti had been found by Wallis.

Tasman had laid down the south point of Tasmania, the western coast of
the North Island of New Zealand, and the Tonga Islands. Dampier and
Carteret had shown that New Britain and New Ireland were separate
islands, lying north-east of New Guinea. Quiros had found the northern
island of the New Hebrides.

But of none of these lands was anything really known. Those who had
visited them had merely touched. In no case had they gone round them, or
ascertained their limits, and their descriptions, founded on brief
experience, were bald and much exaggerated.

Let us turn to what was unknown.

This comprises the whole of the east coast of Australia, or New Holland,
and whether it was joined to Tasmania on the south, and New Guinea to the
north; the dimensions of New Zealand; New Caledonia and the New Hebrides,
with the exception of the fact that the northern island of the latter
existed; the Fiji Islands; Sandwich Islands; the Phoenix, Union, Ellice,
Gilbert, and Marshall Groups, with innumerable small islands scattered
here and there; the Cook Islands, and all the Society Islands except
Tahiti. The majority of the Paumotu Group. The coast of North America
north of 45 degrees north was unknown, and there was the great,
undefined, and imaginary southern Continent to disprove.

Whether other voyages of exploration would have been undertaken one
cannot say; but in 1768 the Royal Society put in a word.

A transit of Venus over the sun's disc was to occur in 1769, and
astronomers were anxious to take advantage of it, the object of the
observation being to ascertain the distance of the earth from the sun,
the fundamental base line in all astronomical measurements, and which was
very imperfectly known.

The Central Pacific afforded a favourable position, and the Royal Society
memorialised the king to send a ship for the purpose. The request was
granted, and at first Alexander Dalrymple, who had conducted marine
surveys in the East Indies, and was known as a scientific geographer, was
selected as observer. As, however, it was found that he also expected to
command the ship, the Admiralty positively refused to have anything to do
with him, and after some discussion James Cook was selected.

This says volumes for Cook's reputation at the time. To have risen
absolutely from the ranks was a great deal, but to be chosen as a master,
to command a ship, and undertake a scientific observation of this
importance, was a most exceptional occurrence, and speaks well for the
judgment of those who had the selection.

It seems that Mr. Stephens, the Secretary to the Admiralty, had much to
do with it. How Stephens had become acquainted with Cook history does not
relate, but doubtless his personal visits to the Admiralty in connection
with the completion of his charts of Newfoundland, from which he returned
every winter, had brought him into contact with the Secretary, who had
clearly formed a high opinion of him.

Cook, we may be sure, jumped at the chance, and his pride must have been
great when he found he was to receive a commission as Lieutenant.

This in itself was a most unusual step. The occasions on which a master
had been transferred to the executive line of the Royal Navy were very
rare, and many an admiral used his influence in favour of some deserving
officer in vain.

This was not without good reason, as the whole training of the Master of
those days was unfavourable to success in command of ships or men. The
exception was, however, in this case amply justified.

Cook was allowed to choose his vessel, and bearing in mind the dangers of
grounding in unknown seas, he pitched upon his old friends, the
stoutly-built, full-bottomed colliers of the North Sea trade.

His ship, the Endeavour, was a Whitby built vessel of three hundred and
seventy tons, and was known as H.M. Bark Endeavour, there being another
vessel, a cutter, of the same name in the Royal Navy. She was brought to
the dockyard at Deptford to fit out. Her appearance was, of course,
wholly different from that of a vessel built as a man-of-war, and we
shall see that this caused trouble at Rio Janeiro, where the combination
of merchant build and officers in uniform in an armed ship, aroused
suspicions in the mind of the Portuguese Viceroy.

It is nowhere directly stated whether the Endeavour was sheathed with
copper or not; but as Cook in the account of his second voyage expresses
himself as adverse to this method of protecting ships' bottoms, and the
operation is recorded of heeling and boot topping, which was cleaning and
greasing the part of the ship just below waterline, it may be concluded
that her sheathing was wood.

She proved a most suitable vessel. The log states she was a little crank,
but an admirable sea-boat. Her rate of sailing was of course, with her
build, slow, but her strength and flat bottom stood her in good stead
when she made acquaintance with a coral reef.

She mounted ten small carriage guns and twelve swivels.

Mr. Banks, a scientific botanist, afterwards well known as Sir Joseph
Banks, and for a long time President of the Royal Society, a gentleman of
private means, volunteered to accompany Cook, and took with him a staff
of his own, of artists and others.

He also induced Dr. Solander, a Swedish naturalist, afterwards attached
to the British Museum, to accompany him.

Mr. Charles Green, one of the assistants at the Royal Observatory at
Greenwich, was sent as astronomer.

This scientific staff added much to the success of the expedition.

Banks and Solander, both men of observation, were able to collect
specimens of natural history, and study the manners and customs of the
natives with whom they came in contact, which neither the time at Cook's
disposal nor his training enabled him to undertake; and though the
Journal of the former has never yet been published, and cannot at the
present time be traced, many interesting remarks were extracted by Dr.
Hawkesworth from it and went far to make his account of the voyage
complete.

Mr. Green also demands special notice.

One great question of the day amongst seamen and geographers was the
discovering of some ready and sure method of ascertaining the longitude.
Half the value of the explorations made up to this time had been lost
from this want. The recognised means of finding longitude was by the
observation of lunars; that is, accurately measuring the angular distance
between the centres of the moon and of the sun, or of the moon and some
star.

The motion of the moon is so rapid that this angular distance changes
from second to second, and thereby, by previous astronomical calculation,
the time at Greenwich at which its distance from any body is a certain
number of degrees can be ascertained and recorded.

By well-known calculations the local time at any spot can be obtained,
and when this is ascertained, at the precise moment that the angular
distance of sun and moon is observed, the difference gives the longitude.

This seems simple enough, but there is a good deal of calculation to go
through before the result is reached, and neither the observation nor the
calculation is easy, especially with the astronomical tables of those
days, and there were very few sailors who were capable of, or patient
enough to make them, nor was the result, as a rule, very accurate. For
one thing, the motions of the moon, which are extremely complicated, were
not enough known to allow her calculated position in the heavens to be
very accurate, and a very small error in this position considerably
affects the time, and therefore the longitude.

Luckily for Cook, the Nautical Almanac had just been started, and
contained tables of the moon which had not previously been available, and
which much lightened the calculations.

The great invention of the chronometer, that is, a watch that can be
trusted to keep a steady rate for long periods, was at this time
completed by Harrison; but very few had been manufactured, and
astronomers and sailors were slow to believe in the efficacy of this
method of carrying time about with a ship. Thus Cook had no chronometer
supplied to him.

Green had accompanied Mr. Maskelyne, afterwards Astronomer Royal, to
Barbados in 1763 in H.M.S. Princess Louisa, in order to test Harrison's
timekeeper, and also a complicated chair, from which it was supposed
observations of Jupiter's satellites could be observed on board ship; and
as this trial afforded the final triumph of the new method, one would
have thought that on a voyage of circumnavigation he would have made
every effort to get one of these watches.

Be this as it may, the Endeavour had no chronometer, and lunars were the
mainstay of the expedition.

In these observations Green was indefatigable. Cook, an excellent
observer himself frequently took part in them; but it was Green's
especial business, and no doubt to him is due the major part of the
determinations of accurate longitude, which is one of the very remarkable
points of this voyage.

Green's log, which is extant, is filled with lunar observations, and the
extraordinary coincidence between different observations attests the care
with which they were made. I dwell upon this because, while full of
admiration for Cook's knowledge, and his untiring zeal in every detail of
his expedition, it is evident, from a study of the original documents,
that without Green many opportunities of getting longitude would have
been lost, Cook having no time to spare to make use of them. Let us give
honour to whom honour is due.

The final results of the observations are not equally good, but this
arises from the errors, before referred to, in the moon's place in the
heavens as given in the almanac, which would vary with her position, and
affect the longitude accordingly. The astonishing thing is, not that some
longitudes are considerably in error, but that the majority of them are
so near the truth.

The Endeavour sailed from the Thames on June 30th, 1768, and was in
Plymouth Sound from July 14th to the 26th, when she finally sailed, Banks
and the scientific staff having joined here.

She carried a complement, all told, of ninety-four, and very close
stowage it must have been.

A list is given in this book, immediately before the "Journal," of every
person on board when the ship sailed from Plymouth.

The draught of the ship was 13 feet 6 inches, and her provisions were
calculated to last eighteen months. The original intention had been that
the transit of Venus should be observed at the Marquesas; but the
Dolphin's return before Cook sailed, with the news of the discovery of
Tahiti and its friendly inhabitants, caused this island to be finally
selected.

The exact text of Cook's orders cannot be given. They were secret orders;
but, curiously enough, while the covering letter, which enjoined him to
show them to nobody, which is dated July 30th, 1768, is duly entered in
Admiralty Records, the orders themselves, which should follow in the
letter book, are omitted. They have never been published. Nevertheless,
we can gather what they were.

Cook, in the published account of his Second Voyage, says he had
instructions to proceed directly to Tahiti, and afterwards to prosecute
the design of making discoveries in the Pacific by proceeding southward
to the latitude of 40 degrees, and if he did not find land to continue
his voyage to the west till he fell in with New Zealand, which he was
directed to explore, and thence to return to England by such route as he
should judge most convenient.

Precautions against the terrible scourge, scurvy, had not been forgotten.

Besides the supply of all anti-scorbutics then known, a special letter
was written to Cook directing him to take a quantity of malt to sea, for
the purpose of being made into wort, as a cure for scorbutic disorders,
as recommended by Dr. McBride.

The directions for its use were as follows:--

"The malt must be ground under the direction of the surgeon, and made
into wort, fresh every day, in the following manner:--

"1. Take one quart of ground malt, and pour on it three quarts of boiling
water. Stir them well, and let the mixture stand close covered up for
three or four hours, after which strain off the liquor.

"2. The wort, so prepared, is then to be boiled into a panada, with sea
biscuit or dried fruits generally carried to sea.

"3. The patient must make at least two meals a day of the said panada,
and should drink a quart or more of the fresh infusion as it may agree
with him, every twenty-four hours.

"4. The surgeon is to keep an exact account of its effects."

Though it is somewhat anticipating events, it is convenient to record
here the result of these efforts to defeat the hitherto unconquerable
enemy. Mr. Perry's report at the termination of the voyage is as
follows:--

"Sour krout, mustard, vinegar, wheat, inspissated orange and lemon
juices, saloup, portable soup, sugar, molasses, vegetables (at all times
when they could be got) were, some in constant, others in occasional use.
These were of such infinite service to the people in preserving them from
a scorbutic taint, that the use of the malt was (with respect to
necessity) almost entirely precluded.

"Again cold bathing was encouraged and enforced by example; the allowance
of salt beef and pork was abridged from nearly the beginning of the
voyage, and the sailors' usual custom of mixing the salt beef fat with
their flour, etc., was strictly forbad.

"Upon our leaving England, also, a stop was put to our issuing butter and
cheese, and throughout the voyage raisins were served with the flour
instead of pickled suet. At Tierra del Fuego we collected wild celery,
and every morning our breakfast was made with this herb, with ground
wheat and portable soup.

"We passed Cape Horn, all our men as free from scurvy as on our sailing
from Plymouth.

"Three slight cases of scorbutic disorders occurred before arriving at
Otaheite. Wort was given, with apparently good effect, and the symptoms
disappeared.

"No other cases occurred during the voyage, but the wort was served out
at sea as a regular article of diet."

To this it may be added, that no opportunity was, as appears by the
Journal, ever lost of getting wild celery and any other wild herb that
presented itself.

The personal washing is mentioned by Mr. Perry, and the tradition in the
Navy is, that the men's deck was more constantly scrubbed than had then
been usual; in fact, that unusual attention was paid to cleanliness.
Stoves were used to dry the decks below even in hot weather.

As this voyage forms the subject of this book, its events may be passed
over briefly.

Calling at Madeira--where the log records that the Endeavour was fired
upon by the fort on the Loo Rock through some misapprehension while
shifting berth, though Cook passes this by in silence--and Rio Janeiro,
Cook proceeded to double Cape Horn. His predecessors had struggled
through the Strait of Magellan, losing much time and wearing out their
men with the continual anchoring and weighing in that long and narrow
passage, rendered necessary by the constant foul and strong winds that
prevail. The idea was to avoid the heavy seas and gales of the open sea;
but Cook's action was amply justified by a more rapid passage without any
danger. Discovering several of the low coral atolls of the Paumotu Group,
he arrived at Tahiti on April 13th, 1769.

On July 13th, the transit of Venus having been observed under favourable
conditions on June 1st, he left Tahiti, exploring and mapping the Society
Islands immediately to the westward, never before visited, and then stood
to the southward. It may here be mentioned that it is only during the
last decade that Cook's charts of the Society Group have been superseded
by more elaborate surveys by the French.

Cook went to 40 degrees south, discovering one of the Austral Group on
his way, when, finding no sign of the hypothetical southern Continent,
and getting into very dirty weather, he first gained a more northern
latitude and favourable winds, and then stood for New Zealand.

On October 7th he arrived at Poverty Bay, and during the next six months
he completely circumnavigated and mapped the islands of New Zealand. He
had received on board at Tahiti a native, one Tupia, formerly the high
priest, and a man of much intelligence. Tupia proved to be of the utmost
service, as, to their astonishment and delight, they found that the
languages were sufficiently identical to enable him to act as a most
efficient interpreter; which made it possible to obtain information, and
establish relations with the New Zealanders which they could never have
succeeded in doing without him.

Cook now, after consideration, determined to explore the unknown east
coast of New Holland. The health of his ship's company, and the good
order on board, permitted him to make this good use of his time, instead
of hurrying on to a civilised port, as all his forerunners had had to do.

He struck Australia at its south-east point, and followed the whole coast
to the northward, mapping it as he went.

When nearing the northern end the voyage nearly came to a premature
conclusion by the ship grounding on a coral reef, twenty miles from the
land. Cook's seamanship was, however, equal to the occasion. The ship was
got off, much damaged and leaking severely, and carried into a little
port they discovered not far off. Here she was cleared out and laid upon
the ground, the tide sufficing to dry enough of her bottom to let the
carpenters repair it.

The wisdom of Cook's choice of a ship of the build of the Endeavour was
here very apparent. It was not every ship that could be safely beached in
this way without danger of falling over. After long delay she proceeded
on her voyage, and soon had a second narrow escape. The long line of
coral reefs that front the northern part of Eastern Australia, for a
distance of 1200 miles, approach the coast about the place where the ship
had grounded. The passage between the outer reef and the land is strewn
with shoals, and finding his further progress much impeded by them, and
fearful of a repetition of his disaster, Cook with some difficulty found
a channel to seaward, and gained the open ocean. He was, however, yet
determined to follow the land he was exploring, and more especially to
solve the great question as to whether Australia was joined to New Guinea
or no; and three days after his escape from the line of reefs he found
himself with a light wind, embayed on the outer side of them, with the
reefs close to him, and the ship drifting slowly but surely on them, the
heavy swell of the great ocean breaking mountains high on their outer
edge.

Here again calmness and promptitude saved him, and the ship was pushed
through a narrow channel in these terrible reefs into the smooth, though
reef-dotted, waters within. No event in the voyage is more dramatically
narrated, though without any exaggeration, than this hair-breadth escape.

With the caution born of recent dangers, Cook now slowly found his way
through the maze of reefs, by a route that no one has again followed, to
the northern point of Australia, and was rewarded for his pertinacity by
finding the channel now known as Torres Strait, which led him between New
Guinea and Australia.

Thus far Cook's enthusiasm in adventure and desire to explore had been
fully shared by his companions; but it is apparent that at this point
they fell short of his high standard. Cook, having secured his direct
passage to Batavia, and having still a little provision left, was anxious
to do still more in the way of discovery, and stood over to the
little-known New Guinea shore. It is evident, however, from Cook's
expressions, though he does not complain, that his people were pining for
fresh food and civilisation. Australia had produced them little but
occasional fish and a few turtle. The salt provisions of those days were
most unpalatable, and the effect of their continued hard work and
inadequate food for so long, for they were now over two years from
England, with no communication of any kind with the outer world, were
telling on them, though they were still free from scurvy.

Cook, therefore, after landing once in New Guinea, unwillingly turned his
ship's head towards Batavia.

The complaints grew louder as he passed by Timor without attempting to
communicate, and falling in with the island of Savu, he yielded to
importunity, and touched there to get refreshments.

Thence he went by the south shore of the chain of islands to Sunda Strait
and Batavia.

So far all had gone well. It was undoubtedly far the most successful
voyage ever made. Much had been done--more than his orders directed--to
explore unknown lands, and the dire enemy of seamen, scurvy, had been
conquered.

But his luck was not to last.

It was absolutely necessary to remain some time at Batavia, while the
roughly repaired damage to the ship was made good in the Dutch dockyard.

Two months and a half in the sickly climate of Batavia, during a bad time
of the year, wrought a sad change in his ship's company. The port they so
much desired proved but the door of the grave to many of them, and Cook
sailed for England on December 27th, 1770, with dysentery pervading the
ship. The surgeon had already died of it; so had the poor Tahitian,
Tupia, with two seamen, and one of Mr. Banks' artists.

Worse was, however, to follow. Day by day, as the ship slowly found her
way over the Indian Ocean towards the Cape, against the wet and unhealthy
north-west monsoon, the sick list grew larger. Man after man succumbed,
and before half the distance to Capetown was traversed twenty-two more
were carried off. Green, the astronomer, two more of Banks' staff, two
midshipmen, the boatswain and carpenter were among the number. The crew
was more than decimated.

The ship touched at the Cape, and war with France being expected, the
Endeavour joined the East India convoy, under H.M.S. Portland, at St.
Helena. The heavy-sailing, collier-built craft was not, however, when the
ships had crossed the line and got upon a wind, able to keep up with
them, and she once more found herself alone on her way.

Two more officers, the First Lieutenant, Mr. Hicks, and the Master, Mr.
Molineux, died after leaving the Cape, but not of dysentery, and the ship
finally reached England on June 12th, 1771.

Ninety-four persons left England in the Endeavour, of whom fifty-four
returned. Thirty-eight died on the voyage, out of which number thirty-one
died after reaching Batavia, most of them from fever and dysentery
contracted at that place.

After paying off in August 1771, the Endeavour was sold in 1775, and for
many years sailed as a collier in the North Sea.

This voyage gave a new impetus to discovery, and the immediate thought
was to resume it, under this heaven-born leader.

Cook was given little leisure, as it was nearly at once decided to send
him out again, and he was appointed to command the Resolution on November
28th, 1771, the interval having been occupied in considering what ships
should be employed.

Cook's experience of the qualities of the Endeavour caused him to uphold
the selection of similar vessels, for there were to be two, and the
Resolution and Adventure, of 462 and 336 tons respectively, both Whitby
built colliers, were bought for the voyage. Cook was promoted to
Commander, and Tobias Furnaux, in the Adventure, was placed under his
command. It was not, however, until April 1772 that they sailed.

It was originally intended that Banks should again accompany Cook, and
with a view to his better accommodation a poop was added to the
Resolution. The short trip, however, from Deptford to Sheerness proved to
Cook that the ship was dangerously over-weighted, and the poop was
removed, with the consequence that Banks did not sail. The alteration
delayed final departure until June 22nd from Sheerness, and July 13th
from Plymouth.

The naturalists on this voyage were two Forsters, Germans, father and
son; and as astronomers Mr. Wales sailed in the Resolution, and Mr.
Bayley in the Adventure. Two of Cook's former companions sailed as
Lieutenants: Clerke, who was Lieutenant, and Pickersgill, who was master
of the Endeavour when she reached England. This witnesses to the
confidence and enthusiasm that Cook inspired amongst those under him.
There were also other Endeavours amongst the junior officers.

The main object of the voyage was the settlement of the great question of
the southern Continent. Cook was directed to explore the whole region
about the South Pole, starting from the Cape of Good Hope, and working
eastward. The winter of the southern hemisphere was to be employed as
Cook thought fit.

This voyage brought Cook's qualities as a seaman and commander more
prominently to view even than the former. The conditions were very
different. Instead of mapping coasts and islands, the principal duty was
exploration of tempestuous seas in high latitudes, amongst ice, searching
in vain for the illusive southern land.

Cook carried it out thoroughly. No gales, no temperatures deterred him
from searching wherever the ships would safely sail, and it was only ice
in dense masses that turned him back.

What his people thought of it we do not know, but the Forsters have given
a piteous account of the privations and hardships of an exploration that
gave them little chance of exercising their special knowledge.

Cook was better provided with instruments for the determination of
longitude than before, and the ships carried four chronometric
timekeepers; but the proper method of making use of them was scarcely yet
realised, and the course of his voyage did not permit them to be of much
service.

Mindful of his former success in combating scurvy, and making use of his
experience, Cook carried with him all his former anti-scorbutics, and
redoubled his general precautions as to cleanliness, both of person and
ship. The result was complete immunity from more than symptoms of scurvy.
He was able to say, when he returned, that no man had died not only of
this disease, but of any other, due to the exposures of the voyage. Three
lost by accidents, and one from a complaint contracted before leaving
England, were the sole losses on a voyage lasting three years, and during
which the exposure to heat, cold, rain, and all the hardships of a sea
life was probably never surpassed.

Leaving the Cape on November 22nd, Cook stood at once to the southward,
intending to pass over a spot in latitude 54 degrees South, where in 1739
M. Bouvet sighted land that was generally supposed to be a part of the
Southern Continent, and which he had been especially directed to examine.
Gales, however, drove him from his course, and to this day Bouvet's
Islands (for Cook proved they could be nothing else) are doubtfully shown
upon charts.* (* They were again reported in 1825 by the Sprightly, an
English whaler, but Sir James Ross searched for them in 1840 without
success.) Cook soon got into the ice, and fought with it and gales of
wind, in snow and sleet and fog, working gradually eastwards from the
longitude of the Cape for four months. The ship penetrated to 67 degrees
South at one point, and kept as high a latitude as ice permitted
everywhere, but without discovering any land. Cook found to his great joy
that the ice yielded good fresh water, and replenished his water casks in
this manner, without any fear of falling short. With all his power of
communicating his enthusiasm to others, it may be doubted if they shared
his pleasure at finding that the search in these inclement regions need
not be curtailed from lack of this necessary.

At last, in the longitude of Tasmania, Cook hauled to the northward, and
headed for New Zealand, where, after sailing over eleven thousand miles
since leaving the Cape without once sighting land, he anchored in Dusky
Bay on March 26th, 1774, with the Resolution only, the Adventure having
parted company in thick weather on February 9th. Moving on to Queen
Charlotte's Sound, his old anchorage at the north end of Middle Island,
he found the Adventure there on May 18th. Captain Furneaux had, after
vainly searching for his consort, run for Tasmania, and explored the east
coast. He did not, however, clear up the point for which he states he
visited this coast, namely, whether it joined New Holland or not, as
strong winds from the eastward made him fearful of closing what he
thought was a deep bay, though really the Strait, and he sailed for the
rendezvous in New Zealand under the impression that Tasmania and
Australia were one.

The ships left New Zealand on June 7th, 1773, and, after making a wide
circuit to the south and east in search of land, arrived at Tahiti on
August 16th. A good many of the Adventure's people were ill with scurvy,
and Cook is much puzzled to know the reason why they were attacked while
his own crew were free. He puts it down to the greater trouble he had
taken to make all his men use wild celery and other herbs in New Zealand,
and no doubt this had its effect; but one cannot but suspect that the
constant care on his part to keep the ship clean and sweet below had much
to do with it. The Adventure had the same anti-scorbutics, and Cook
especially mentions that they were in use; but the personal efforts of
the captain in the direction of general sanitary precautions were, we
know, exercised in one case, while we know nothing of the other.

After a month's stay at Tahiti and the Society Islands, where the crews
were much benefited by fresh provisions, the ships sailed for the
Friendly Islands, never visited since Tasrnan's time, and touched at Eoa
and Tongatabu, or, as Tasman had called them, Middleburg and Amsterdam.
These were finally left on October 7th for New Zealand, which was made on
the 21st, and from this day to November 2nd the time was spent in
fruitless endeavours to get into Cook's Strait. Gale succeeded gale--no
uncommon thing here--and in one of them the Adventure parted company
never again to rejoin. Cook anchored in Queen Charlotte's Sound on
November 2nd, and waited until the 25th for his consort in vain. Whilst
here they gained further and indisputable proof of the cannibalistic
tendencies of the Maoris, some of the natives eating human flesh before
them. Cook has been much blamed for permitting this scene, which took
place on board; but there had been so much disputing in England as to the
possibility of the fact, that he could not resist the opportunity of
putting it beyond a doubt.

It was, however, to be shortly proved in a much more horrible manner, for
the Adventure, which only arrived at Queen Charlotte's Sound after the
Resolution left, had a boat's crew attacked, overpowered, and eaten by
the natives. The circumstances were never wholly known, as not a man
escaped; but the cooked remains were found, the natives decamping as the
search-party approached.

Cook sailed south on November 25th, 1773, and was soon again battling
with the ice, into which he pushed as far as was safe with as much
hardihood as if he had still had the second ship with him. He gained the
latitude of 67 degrees south, and worked eastward, searching religiously
for land--which, needless to say, he never found--his ropes frozen, and
sails like, as he says, plates of metal. Whatever the feelings of others
on board were, Cook never flinched from every effort to get south,
penetrating in one place to 71 degrees south, where he was stopped by
dense pack, until he found himself nearly in the longitude of Tierra del
Fuego, when, satisfied that no Southern Continent existed in the Pacific,
he, on February 6th, steered north, to continue exploration in more
genial weather and more profitable latitudes. All this time there was no
scurvy, and very little sickness of any kind; an indisputable proof of
the untiring supervision Cook exercised over the health of his men. The
object of his voyage, so far as the Southern Pacific was concerned, was
now accomplished, and Cook might have rounded Cape Horn, and made for the
Cape of Good Hope, completing his tour of the world in southern
latitudes; but such was not his idea of his duty. His own nervous words
will explain his feelings best:--

"We undoubtedly might have reached the Cape of Good Hope in April, and so
have put an end to the expedition so far as related to the finding of a
continent, which indeed was the first object of the voyage; but for me at
this time to have quitted this Southern Pacific Ocean with a good ship
expressly sent out on discoveries, a healthy crew, and not in want either
of stores or provisions, would have betrayed not only a want of
perseverance, but of judgment, in supposing the South Pacific Ocean to be
so well explored that nothing remained to be done in it. This, however,
was not my opinion; for, although I had proved there was no continent but
what must lie far to the south, there remained, nevertheless, room for
very large islands in places wholly unexamined, and many of those which
were formerly discovered are but imperfectly explored, and their
situation as imperfectly known. I was, besides, of opinion that my
remaining in this sea some time longer would be productive of
improvements in navigation and geography, as well as other sciences."

Cook mentions that, on communicating his intentions to his officers, they
all heartily concurred; and he adds, "Under such circumstances it is
hardly necessary to say that the seamen were always obedient and alert,
and they were so far from wishing the voyage at an end that they rejoiced
at the prospect of its being prolonged another year." This, be it
remembered, without a prospect of news from home or contact with
civilisation, for Cook's design was to pass again through the breadth of
the Pacific searching for islands as far as Quiros' discovery of Espiritu
Santo, which lay due north of New Zealand, and then to return through the
tempestuous regions they were now quitting to Cape Horn. Perhaps the
charms of Tahiti reconciled them.

This design Cook triumphantly carried out; though shortly after leaving
southern latitudes he was so ill of what he describes as a bilious
cholic, that his life was despaired of. He first searched for, and
visited, Davis' discovery of Easter Island, where he examined and
described the wonderful colossal, though rude, statues there found. He
then went to the Marquesas, a group but little known, where, after the
usual attempt of the natives to appropriate sundry articles, and the
consequent necessity of firing upon them, peaceful relations were
established, and a brisk trade in much-wanted refreshments was set up.
This did not last long, however, as the market was spoiled by some red
feathers, obtained at the Friendly Islands, being given for a pig; after
which nothing would buy provisions but these same red feathers, and these
being scarce, trade ceased. Cook therefore sailed once more for Tahiti.

On his way he touched at some of the coral atolls of the innumerable
Paumotu Group, and arrived at Matavai on April 22nd, again with not a
sick man on board.

Three weeks were spent here with much satisfaction to all. Provisions
were in plenty, the king and people very friendly, and all went well. The
islanders were preparing for an attack on Eimeo, a neighbouring island,
and a gathering of the fleets gave Cook an opportunity of learning much
of their naval power and manner of conducting war. He observed that the
general prosperity of Tahiti seemed to be at a much higher point than on
his former visit.

After another three weeks' stay at Huaheine, and Ulietea, also amongst
old friends, the Resolution sailed on June 4th to the west.

Discovering Palmerston and Savage Islands on the way, she called at
Namuka, one of the Friendly Group, thus extending the knowledge of those
islands gained the year before. Thence Cook sailed west, discovering
Turtle Island, but just passing out of sight to the southward of the
large Fiji Group, and thus lost the chance of adding them to his other
finds.

He was now bound for the New Hebrides, of which the northern island had
been discovered by Quiros. Bougainville, the French explorer, had, in
1768, passed just south of Quiros' Island, and named one or two others he
sighted, but had made no stay, and knew nothing of the extent of the
Group.

This was not Cook's fashion. He explored and circumnavigated the whole
Group, which extends in a long line for three hundred and fifty miles. He
touched first at Mallicolo, where, after a temporary disagreement,
friendship was formed. Passing Sandwich Island, Erromanga was landed
upon; but the suspicion of the natives here impelled them to attack the
boats, and no intercourse was established.

The ship then anchored in the convenient harbour of Resolution Bay in the
island of Tanna, and remained a fortnight, wooding and watering.
Observations on the hot springs that gush from the side of the volcano
bordering the harbour were made, and the relations with the natives were
altogether friendly. Sighting Anityeum, the southern member of the New
Hebrides, and making sure there was nothing beyond it, Cook returned
along the west side of the islands, passing eastward of them again,
between Mallicolo and Espiritu Santo. The latter island was closely
followed round its whole extent, and Quiros' Bay of St. Philip and St.
James identified in the great inlet in the northern side. Having laid
down the whole of this extensive group of islands, and very accurately
fixed the longitude by many lunar observations, Cook, on August 31st,
sailed to the westward to search for more lands.

His chart of the New Hebrides is still, for some of the islands, the only
one; and wherever superseded by more recent surveys the general accuracy
of his work, both in outline and position, is very remarkable. On several
occasions up to the present year (1893) Cook's recorded positions have
saved the adoption of so-called amendments reported by passing ships,
which would have been anything but amendments in reality.

Four days after leaving the New Hebrides Cook discovered New Caledonia.
He explored the whole of the eastern side of this large island, which is
three hundred miles in length, anchoring in one harbour inside the reefs
which border it, and making friends with the natives. Other attempts to
get inside the reefs were, however, unsuccessful, and after several
narrow escapes from shipwreck Cook gave up, to his regret, a complete
circumnavigation of the island. The summer approaching, he wished to
refit and recruit in New Zealand before once more standing south.

Norfolk Island was discovered and landed upon on the way, and Queen
Charlotte's Sound was once more reached on October 19th.

The Adventure's visit was ascertained from the Maoris, but Cook was much
puzzled by incompletely understood accounts of white men having been
killed. As far as could be gathered a ship had been lost on the coast,
and Cook was led to believe that this disaster had no reference to the
Adventure.

It was found that pigs and fowls left here on the former visit were still
in existence, and presumably thriving. It may here be mentioned, that
wherever Cook touched he invariably, so far as his stock allowed, left
animals to stock the country, and that New Zealand was, when the settlers
eventually came, found to be well supplied with pigs.

After a stay of three weeks the Resolution sailed, on November 10th, for
Cape Horn. She kept farther north than on the last occasion, the object
being to pass over new ground, and more completely disprove the existence
of any land.

The western part of Tierra del Fuego being reached, Cook followed the
shore to the south-east, mapping the outside of this dangerous and
inhospitable archipelago. On December 20th he put in to what he
afterwards called Christmas Sound, where large numbers of kelp geese were
obtained, giving the crew what Cook describes as a dainty Christmas
feast, though the flesh of these birds is as tough, fishy, and
unpalatable as can well be imagined; on this occasion, however, the
seamen seemed to have concurred in the verdict of their omnivorous
commander, to whom nothing ever came amiss. Be it remembered, however,
how long they had been on salt provisions, and that the South Sea
Islands, though pleasant in many respects, produced but little solid
food--no beef, mutton, or flesh of any quadruped but pigs, and those in
not very great plenty--while New Zealand gave them nothing but fish.

Rounding Cape Horn, he passed through the Strait Le Maire, and followed
the north shore of Staten Island, anchoring at one place to obtain seals
and birds.

Whilst praising the flavour of a young seal cub, Cook is compelled to
admit that the flesh of an old sea lion is abominable; a remarkable
statement as coming from him.

Leaving Staten Island, Cook steered east and discovered South Georgia,
named after the king. He followed the north coast of this desolate and
ice-clad island, obtaining more refreshment in the shape of seals,
penguins, and shags--unpalatable, but welcome food to men who had so long
subsisted on bad salt meat. From South Georgia the ship's head was once
more turned southwards, and before many days ice was again encountered.
In stormy and thick weather the Resolution made her way, disproving the
existence of a great tract of land laid down by speculative geographers,
until January 31st, 1775, when Sandwich Land was discovered in about
latitude 60 degrees south. This ice-covered group of islands was sketched
under great difficulties from gales, fogs, snow, and numerous icebergs;
and Cook then bore away along their parallel, to seek once more for
Bouvet's Islands to the eastward.

He found nothing, and on February 26th steered for the Cape of Good Hope,
even he being glad to leave this trying, tempestuous latitude. On March
23rd he anchored in Table Bay, having learnt from some vessels outside of
the safe arrival of the Adventure in England the year before, and of her
boat's crew having been eaten by the Maoris, which cleared up the mystery
of the wrecked ship.

The Resolution finally arrived at Spithead on July 29th, 1775, after an
absence of three years and eighteen days.

Captain Furneaux had, on leaving New Zealand, sailed straight for Cape
Horn, the Cape of Good Hope, and England, arriving just a year before the
Resolution.

Cook speaks most warmly of Captain Furneaux; but one cannot help
contrasting his action with Cook's. Left, by the separation, his own
master, he might have continued exploration, as did Cook. His ship was
staunch, his provisions in much the same condition as the Resolution's;
but he went straight home. His crew had suffered from scurvy, whereas
Cook's had not; but he says not one word of this, nor does he give any
reason why he gave up any further thought of the objects of the voyage,
except a search for Bouvet's Islands, which he also looked for on his
way.

It was the indomitable perseverance that led Cook to act so differently
that raised his reputation so far above all other leaders.

Thus ended this very remarkable voyage. Never was a ship's crew exposed
to more continual hardships, with so little to keep up interest and
excitement, as the people of the Resolution; and yet Cook is able to
record, with allowable pride, that only four lives had been lost, and
only one by a sickness contracted before leaving England.

Once more the scurvy was defeated; and, without a doubt, owing to the
intelligent action and untiring supervision of the captain. He gives a
full description of the measures adopted, and while giving full
acknowledgment to the anti-scorbutics with which he was supplied, he is
of opinion that the general sanitary precautions formed the best
prevention. Cleanliness of persons, bedding, clothes, and ship, were
continually enforced. All these were foreign to the sailors of the time,
and extraordinary it is that it was a man born in the lower rank of life,
and brought up in a collier, who had the sense to perceive that in these
lay the surest preventatives against this paralysing scourge.

Cook was promoted to captain--a proud position for the collier boy--and
elected a Fellow of the Royal Society; perhaps even a greater distinction
for a man of his bringing up. He contributed papers on his methods of
preventing scurvy, and on the tides of the Pacific.

He also employed himself in publishing the account of his recent voyage,
the only one which he himself edited.

He was not, however, long at rest. The Admiralty wished to send an
expedition to explore the north-western coasts of North America, and to
examine the Polar Sea from the Bering Straits side, with a view of the
discovery of a north-west passage. Cook seems to have volunteered for the
command without being actually asked, and, needless to say, was at once
accepted.

In February he once more received his commission to command the
Resolution, this time accompanied by the Discovery, a vessel very similar
to the Adventure, his consort during the last voyage. Clerke, a master's
mate in the Endeavour, and second lieutenant in the Resolution, was
appointed as commander to the Discovery. He, like Cook, was fated not to
return from this third journey to the great Pacific.

Others who had sailed with Cook before were ready to accompany him, once
more to encounter privations and find new lands.

Cook's orders were long and detailed, but were to the effect that he was
to proceed by way of the Cape of Good Hope to search in the Indian Ocean
for the land recently seen by M. Kerguelen; thence via Tahiti, on to the
coast of North America in about latitude 45 degrees, which he was to
follow to latitude 65 degrees, searching especially for any channel which
might lead to the north-east, as it was supposed there might be a passage
communicating with Hudson's Bay. He was further to look for any passage
north of North America to the Atlantic, and to make such other
explorations as might seem fit to him. A money reward of 20,000 pounds
was also offered in case of success in finding such a passage.

Chronometers were again carried, and more confidence in them being felt,
more use was made of them.

Cook took with him Omai, a young Society islander, who had induced
Captain Furneaux to take him to England, and whom Cook now engaged to
return to his native country.

The ships sailed on July 11th, 1776, and arrived at Table Bay on October
18th.

Sailing thence on November 30th, he passed and roughly mapped Prince
Edward's, Marion, and Croset's Islands, all of which had been discovered
by Marion de Fresne. He then struck Kerguelen's Land, spent Christmas Day
in one of its harbours, and mapped the eastern side of this large but
desolate island. He was unaware that Kerguelen had visited this island a
second time, and had gained much more information about it than he did in
his first voyage.

Cook had taken on board at the Cape as many cattle, horses, bulls, cows,
goats, and sheep as he could stow, with a view of landing them at Tahiti
or elsewhere, and it is without surprise that we learn that after several
weeks in these stormy seas a good many of them had died. When we consider
the size of the ships the wonder is where they found room for these
animals.

On January 26th the ships arrived in Tasmania, and anchored in Adventure
Bay, principally with a view of getting fodder for the remaining cattle.
Pigs were left here, according to Cook's usual custom.

After four days the ships sailed, and arrived in Queen Charlotte's Sound,
New Zealand, on February 12th, 1777. Here Cook learnt the history of the
attack on the Adventure's boat's crew from the chief who led it, but made
no attempt at reprisals, although urged by many other natives to kill
him. He seems to have been guided by the consideration that, as related
by the natives, it was a dishonest act of barter on the part of one of
the sailors which commenced the disturbance; and that occurring so long
before, no good purpose would be served by punishment. It says much for
his humane treatment of natives.

On leaving this, Cook records that he had at different times left about a
dozen pigs in New Zealand. These increased, and stocked the whole island
by the time the English settlers arrived.

On the way to Tahiti Cook fell across several islands belonging to what
was afterwards called after him, the Cook Group. He visited Mangaia,
Atiu, Takutea,* (* Spelt by Cook Mangeea, Wateeo, and Otakootaia.) and
the Hervey Islands. Relations were established with the natives, and Cook
was much interested at finding on Atiu three natives of the Society
Islands, the survivors of twelve, who had been blown away in a canoe, and
landed on this island, five hundred miles distant. As he remarks, this
throws great light on the manner in which the different islands of the
Pacific have been peopled.

Cook now made up his mind that he was too late to prosecute discovery
this year on the American Continent, it being well into April, and being
anxious to save the remaining cattle that he wished to land at Tahiti,
and which had been taken on board especially for this purpose, the island
being still far to windward, he bore away for the Friendly Islands for
fodder and refreshments. He landed on Palmerston on the way--an island
discovered last voyage--and arrived at Namuka* (* Cook's Anamooka.) on
May 1st, with not a sick man in the ships.

The ships remained in the Friendly Group for two months and a half,
visiting and mapping the different islands, and learning much of the
manners of this interesting race, seeing their great concerted dances,
and the ceremonies of coming of age of the heir to the throne. Cook here
first became acquainted with the mysterious rite of Tabu, which was
closely connected with his own death. A selection of useful animals,
including horses, were left at Tongatabu.

While at the Friendly Islands Cook heard of the Fiji Group, and saw some
of the natives, who had come over in a canoe. The intelligence he was
able to gather concerning them was imperfect, and he saw no reason to
justify a long detour to leeward to search for them, when his object was
to stock the Society Islands with the animals he had. Had he known their
size and importance, his course might possibly have been different. As it
was, he sailed for Tahiti, and discovering Tubuai, one of the Austral
Group, on his passage, arrived there on August 13th, 1777.

Six weeks were spent here, and the old friendships further cemented.
Bulls and cows and other animals were presented to the king. Cook also
attended at several ceremonies consequent on war being declared against
Eimeo, which included the offering of the dead body of a man, previously
killed for the purpose, to the war god. He positively refused to aid in
this war, which very shortly came to an end.

Eimeo was next visited, and here the theft of a goat, which Cook intended
to land at Huaheine, induced him to take severe measures to get it back.
Several war canoes and houses were destroyed before it was returned. At
Huaheine, Omai was established, with many valuable European articles in
his possession. Here again Cook acted with considerable severity in the
case of a thief cutting off his ears, and confining him on board. His
action has been questioned, but considering his humane character, and the
judgment that he always displayed in these questions, we are justified in
believing that he had good reason for departing from his ordinary custom
of mild treatment of natives. At Ulietea, or Raiatea, next visited, a
midshipman and a seaman of the Discovery deserted. Cook took his usual
step of confining some natives of importance, and informing their
relatives that they would be retained until the deserters were returned.
In this case he impounded the king's son and daughter, with the desired
effect, as the stragglers were soon brought back from Bolabola, whither
they had gone; but both Cook and Captain Clerke were nearly captured by
the natives when on shore in the interval.

It is only surprising that more of Cook's people did not attempt to
remain in these pleasant islands. The hardships of the sea press much on
certain natures, and the allurements of the easy and careless life of a
tropical island offered such a contrast, that it scarcely required the
desire of the natives to get white men with their superior knowledge, and
above all superior arms, to remain with them, to induce them to desert.
This last, however, made desertion more easy, and had not Cook taken
strong measures, no doubt the epidemic would have spread.

After visiting Bolabola, Cook sailed north, to prosecute the main object
of his voyage, the exploration of the north-west coast of America. On
December 24th he fell in with Christmas Island, which he so named from
the season. After mapping it, and getting many turtle, he continued his
course to the north, and discovered Atooi or Kauai, the western island of
the Sandwich Group.

Communicating with this island and another, he finally left on February
3rd, 1778, and on March 7th made the coast of North America, a little
south of the Columbia River. Gales ensued, and Cook missed the entrance
of Juan de Fuca Strait, making the land again a little north of it.

Anchoring first in Nootka Sound in Vancouver Island--though Cook did not
know it was an island--the ships continued their exploration to the
north-west, skirting the coast as near as stormy weather permitted them,
and calling at various places until the north-west extremity of the
Alaska Peninsula was reached. In one place, afterwards called Cook's
River, it was hoped that the desired passage eastward was found; but it
was soon discovered that it was merely an inlet.

Passing through the Aleutian Chain, east of Unalaska, Cook visited that
island, and continued his voyage through the Bering Sea, clinging to the
land as much as possible, and finally got into Bering Strait. Here he had
both continents in sight, and communicated with both sides.

Standing further north, he, in latitude 70 degrees 30 minutes north, came
across the icy barrier of the Arctic Sea. After vainly trying for a
passage in fog and strong wind, surrounded by loose ice, and after
mapping a good deal of the shores on both sides, the ships again turned
south at the end of August, exploring as they went first on the Asiatic
side, and afterwards on the American, especially examining Norton Sound.
In the beginning of October they once more arrived at Unalaska, and the
Resolution having sprung a dangerous leak, the opportunity was taken to
stop it.

On October 26th the ships sailed for the Sandwich Islands, where Cook had
determined to winter, for the double purpose of refreshing his crew,
gaining more knowledge of the Group, and being in a convenient position
for resuming his exploration in the spring.

The voyage just accomplished was very remarkable, whether for the amount
of coast mapped, which extended for between three and four thousand
miles, or for the determination with which it was prosecuted in
tempestuous and thick weather, on a most dangerous and inhospitable
coast, part of the time in ice. The crews were perfectly healthy, with no
sign of scurvy, and he brought both his ships off without any damage.

Maui, another of the Sandwich Group, was made on November 26th, and after
communicating, the ships stood over to Owhyhee (Hawaii). Wind was against
them, and it was not until January 17th that the two ships, having passed
along the north side of the island to the eastward, at last anchored in
Kealakekua Bay, on the south-west side.

The events which followed the arrival of the ships at Hawaii, which
terminated in Captain Cook's death, were not understood at the time, but
have been elucidated by the inquiries of the early missionaries, which
throw much light upon the beliefs of the islanders.

It appears that a tradition existed that a chief of earlier times, one
Rono, Orono, or Lono (the R and the L in the Pacific languages are almost
interchangeable), had, after killing his wife, become frantically insane,
and after travelling through the islands boxing and wrestling with all he
met, had departed in a canoe, prophesying that he would some day return
in an island with trees, hogs, and dogs. He was deified, and temples
erected in his honour.

When Cook's ships arrived it was believed that the prophecy was
fulfilled. Rono had returned as he had said, and the natives flocked to
do him honour. When Cook landed he was received with adoration, the
crowds prostrating themselves, and the priests escorting him with much
ceremony. Led to a temple, he was clothed with red cloth, had pigs
offered to him, and was generally treated in a manner which, though
satisfactory as showing the friendly feelings of the natives, was
puzzling to the Europeans. This continued throughout their stay, presents
of all kinds being showered upon them. The officers, however, observed
that the warrior chiefs were not so enthusiastic as the priests and
common people. The death of a seaman, who was buried on shore in the
presence of a large concourse, would seem to have been the first
circumstance that threw doubts upon the godlike character of the
visitors; but the ready way in which the fence of a Morai or sacred
inclosure, which included various images, was granted for fuel, shows
that the priests still held to their idea. The king, Taraiopu (or
Terreooboo, as his name was written by Captain King), arrived shortly
after the ships anchored, and showed himself to be as much impressed with
the public belief as any of his subjects.

Thus matters continued during the eighteen days the ships remained; but
towards the end of this time the natives began to show anxiety that they
should be gone. The drain of hogs and other provisions, which were poured
upon the visitors, doubtless led to anxious thoughts as to how long this
was to last; and probably those members of the community who were less
amenable to the influence of the priests, and were jealous of their own
authority, were by no means so certain that the popular opinion of the
supernatural nature of the white men was correct.

The ships sailed on February 4th, but, as ill-luck had it, the Resolution
sprung her foremast in a gale, and Cook resolved to return to Kealakekua
Bay for repairs. Here they again anchored on the 11th.

Their reception was, however, very different.

No crowd of canoes round the ship; no enthusiastic mass of natives on
shore. Everything was silence.

What had happened was that the king had departed, leaving the bay under
"tabu," i.e., a sacred interdict.

The priests, however, received them with as much friendliness as before,
and the Morai was given up to them as a place of repairs for the damaged
mast.

The king hurried back on hearing of the return of the ships, and removed
the tabu; but the native disposition was changed. Some of the party on
shore had persuaded women to break the tabu.

Whether this affected relations is uncertain, but the inhabitants
generally exhibited considerable hostility, and headed by some chiefs,
showed an inclination to attack a watering party. Thefts followed, and
the capture of a canoe as a reprisal caused a scuffle on the beach, in
which the Englishmen were worsted by the crowd, though a friendly chief
soon restored order.

Instructions were now given to the party on shore at the Morai to permit
no natives to approach in the night, and a musket was fired at one of
them who came near.

On the morning of February 14th the Discovery's cutter was found to have
been stolen.

Cook at once decided to have recourse to his usual practice, and get
either the king or some principal chief on board, as a hostage till it
was returned. He at the same time gave orders to prevent any canoes from
leaving the bay, in order that he might, if necessary, seize them, and
sent his boats to carry this out. Guns were fired from the ships at two
large canoes that attempted to pass. Cook himself landed with a small
armed force, and went in search of the king, who at once consented to
come on board. The conduct of Taraiopu throughout showed that he had
perfect confidence in Cook, and was entirely friendly, whether he still
believed in the Rono theory or not.

While walking down to the boat, the natives, who were momentarily
increasing in numbers, implored the king not to go. His wife joined her
entreaties. Taraiopu hesitated. At this moment a man ran up and cried,
"It is war; they have killed a chief!" One of the guard boats had, in
fact, fired at a canoe attempting to leave the bay, and killed a man. The
natives at once ran to arms, and Cook, seeing his intentions frustrated,
walked towards the boat. A native attacked him with a spear, and Cook
shot him with his gun. Still, no further attack was made, but the men in
the boats hearing Cook's shot, and seeing the excited crowd, commenced to
fire without orders. Cook still moved to the shore, calling to his men to
cease firing; but whilst so doing, and with his back to the exasperated
natives, he was stabbed in the back with a dagger, and fell with his face
in the water.

There was then general confusion. The boats were a little way from the
beach, and several of the marines were also killed, before they could
reach them. Cook's body was at once dragged off by the natives.

The boats returned on board amid general consternation, and it is
mentioned that a general silence reigned on board when it was known that
their beloved commander had fallen.

The party at the Morai were shortly after attacked, but beat off the
assailants, and reinforcements were sent from the ships. Lieutenant King,
a favourite officer of Cook's, behaved with great discretion, and
assisted by some of the priests, made a truce, during which the mast and
other articles on shore for repairs were got off.

The sailors were mad for reprisals, but Captain Clerke, on whom the
command devolved, decided on pacific measures, and every attempt was made
to recover Cook's body. All that was obtained, however, were some of his
bones, which were brought down with much solemnity by a chief, and
delivered wrapped up in new cloth and red feathers.

It was known in after years that Cook's body had been instantly cut up;
the flesh was burnt, as was the custom with great chiefs and many of the
bones were preserved with great honour in a Morai dedicated to Rono.

It seems clear that Cook's death was due to a revulsion of feeling on the
part of some of the natives, who no longer believed in his divine
character, but that many regarded the outrage with horror. When the first
Europeans came to reside on the island, and learnt the story from the
native side, they found universal regret prevailing at this untoward
occurrence.

Cook left officers imbued with his own noble sentiments. No general
attack was made in revenge for what they saw was the result of
misunderstanding, although they were ignorant of the exact circumstances
which led, first to the uncommon and extraordinary veneration with which
he had been treated, and then to the sudden change in the native
behaviour.

It was found necessary to fire on the natives who prevented the watering
party from working, and some of the sailors on this duty burnt some
houses; but before the ships left, friendly relations were again
established, and many natives visited them.

After Cook's remains had been committed to the sea, the prosecution of
the voyage was determined upon, although Captain Clerke was in the last
stage of consumption, and as soon as the Resolution's mast could be
repaired, the two vessels once more departed, on February 22nd, 1779.

Cook's intentions were carried out as if he had still been in command.
The remainder of the Sandwich Group was mapped, and the ships proceeded
once more to the north. Calling at Petropavlovsk in Avatcha Bay,
Kamtchatka, they again passed through Bering Strait, and sought in vain
for a passage either to the north-east or north-west, being everywhere
baffled by dense masses of ice. Captain Clerke at last abandoned the
struggle, and repassed Bering Strait on his way south on August 1st.

On August 22nd Captain Clerke died.

This officer had accompanied Captain Cook in all his voyages, and had
also circumnavigated the globe in the Dolphin with Captain Byron before.
No man had seen more of the Pacific, and he proved himself, during his
short period of command, a worthy successor of Cook.

Captain Gore, who had been with Cook on his First Voyage, now succeeded,
King being put as Commander into the Discovery, and the two ships made
the best of their way home, via Macao and the Straits of Sunda, arriving
at the Nore on October 4th, 1780, after an absence of four years and two
months. During the whole of this voyage not the slightest symptom of
scurvy appeared in either ship, so completely were Cook's precautions
successful.

Cook had six children. Three died young. Of the others, all boys, the
eldest, James, entered the Navy, and lived to be a Commander, when, in
1794, he was drowned. The second, Nathaniel, also in the Navy, was lost
in a hurricane in 1780. The third died when at Cambridge. They none of
them lived to be married, and no descendant of the great navigator has
perpetuated his race.

Of Cook's private life during his brief intervals at home we know
nothing. A man rising from the ranks, and of his reserved character,
would have but few friends, when he had such short time to make them in
his new sphere. He lived at Mile End when at home, but after his death
his widow removed to Clapham, living there for forty years, at first with
her cousin, Isaac Smith, who had served with Cook in the Endeavour and
Resolution. She died in 1835, at the great age of ninety-three.

Of Cook's character, none could be a better judge than Captain King, who
writes as follows, after describing his death:--

"Thus fell our great and excellent commander. After a life of so much
distinguished and successful enterprise, his death, as far as regards
himself, cannot be considered premature, since he lived to finish the
great work for which he seems to have been designed. How sincerely his
loss was felt and lamented, by those who had so long found their general
security in his skill and conduct, and every consolation in their
hardships in his tenderness and humanity, it is neither necessary nor
possible for me to describe. The constitution of his body was robust,
inured to labour, and capable of undergoing the severest hardships. His
stomach bore without difficulty the coarsest and most ungrateful food.
Indeed, temperance with him was scarcely a virtue, so great was the
indifference with which he submitted to every kind of self-denial. The
qualities of his mind were of the same hardy, vigorous kind with those of
his body. His understanding was strong and perspicacious. His judgment in
whatever related to the service he was engaged in quick and sure. His
designs were bold and manly, and both in the conception and in the mode
of execution bore evident marks of a great original genius. His courage
was cool and determined, and accompanied by an admirable presence of mind
in the moment of danger. His manners were plain and unaffected. His
temper might, perhaps, have been justly blamed as subject to haughtiness
and passion, had not these been disarmed by a disposition the most
benevolent and humane. Those intervals of recreation, which sometimes
unavoidably occurred, and were looked for by us with a longing that
persons who have experienced the fatigues of service will readily excuse,
were submitted to by him with a certain impatience whenever they could
not be employed in making further provision for the more effectual
prosecution of his designs."

This is a pretty complete picture, and of a great man; a man who had
before him continually his duty, and who had in an eminent degree the
capacity to carry it out.

Though, under his determination to do this, he drove his people hard;
though he tried them with his irascibility; their conviction of his
greatness, their confidence in his leadership and in his justice, led
them to love him. He had no sympathy with the ordinary foibles and
weaknesses of his men. The charms of Tahiti, the paradise of the sailor,
were no charms for him; he hardly notices the attractive ladies of that
island; the attractions of the place to him were the abundance of
provisions, as a means of fitting his expedition for further exploration
and hardship. The strongest proof of his capacity as a commander is the
devotion of his officers. Those who know the Navy know how difficult it
is for any man who rises from the ranks to be successful in command. But
Cook was a gentleman born; he had the intuition of great minds for
fitting themselves to every position to which they may rise, and there is
never a whisper of disinclination to submit to the rule of the once
collier boy, the son of a labourer.

His intelligence is remarkably shown in his greatest triumph, the
suppression of scurvy. That it should be left to a man of little
education to discern the combination of means by which this enemy of long
voyages could be conquered, is the most remarkable thing about this
remarkable man. He himself notices the disinclination of the sailor to
any new article of food, especially when not particularly palatable; but
he soon found the means to induce them to understand that their lives
greatly depended upon these rather nasty messes. Sour krout; the
unsavoury portable soups of that day; the strange greens that Cook
insisted on hunting up at every land he visited, and boiling with their
ordinary food; the constant washing between decks; the drying below with
stoves, even in the hottest weather; the personal baths; the change of
wet clothing; the airing of bedding, were all foreign and repugnant to
the notions of the seamen of the day, and it required constant
supervision and wise management to enforce the adoption of these odd
foods and customs.

It is evident that it is to Cook's personal action the success was due.
Wallis and Byron had anti-scorbutics, but they suffered from scurvy;
Furneaux, sailing with Cook in the second voyage, under precisely similar
circumstances, suffered from scurvy. It was only in Cook's ships, and in
the Discovery, commanded and officered by men who had sailed with Cook,
and seen his methods, that exemption occurred.

Cook did more, incomparably more, than any other navigator to discover
new lands. This was only accomplished by dint of hard work; and yet his
men suffered less than in any ships, British or foreign, or similar
expeditions. Though his tracks were in new and unknown waters, we never
hear of starvation; he always manages to have an abundant supply of
water.

The completeness and accuracy of his accounts and charts are no less
remarkable.

M. de La Perouse, one of the foremost of the great French navigators,
told Captain Phillip, the founder of the Colony of New South Wales, that
"Cook had left him nothing but to admire." This was all but literally
true; wherever Cook went he finished his work, according to the
requirements of navigation of his time. He never sighted a land but he
determined its dimensions, its shape, its position, and left true guides
for his successors. His charts are still for some parts unsuperseded, and
his recorded observations still save us from hasty and incorrect
alterations desired by modern navigators.

Well may Englishmen be proud that this greatest of navigators was their
countryman.


PERSONS WHO LEFT ENGLAND IN H.M.S. ENDEAVOUR, 26TH AUGUST, 1768.

Those not otherwise disposed of were paid off on 1st August, 1771.

COLUMN 1: NAME.
COLUMN 2: RANK OR RATING.
COLUMN 3: DISPOSAL.
COLUMN 4: DATE.

James Cook : Lieutenant in Command.

Zachary Hicks : Lieutenant : Died : 25 May, 1771.

John Gore : Lieutenant.

Robert Molineux : Master : Died : 15 April, 1771.

Rich. Pickersgill : Master's Mate, Master, 16 April, 1771.

Chas. Clerke : Master's Mate, A.B., 20 August, 1768, Master's Mate, 17
April, 1771, Lieutenant, 26 May, 1771.

Francis Wilkinson : A.B., Master's Mate, 20 August, 1768.

John Bootie : Midshipman : Died : 4 February, 1771.

Jonathan Monkhouse : Midshipman : Died : 6 February, 1771.

Patrick Saunders : Midshipman, A.B., 24 May, 1770 : Deserted :
25 December, 1770.

Isaac Smith : A.B., Midshipman, 24 May, 1770, Master's Mate, 27 May, 1771.

William Harvey : Lieutenant's Servant, Midshipman, 8 February, 1771.

Jos. Magra : A.B., Midshipman, 27 May, 1771.

Isaac Manley : Master's Servant, Midshipman, 5 February, 1771.

William B. Monkhouse : Surgeon : Died : 5 November, 1770.

William Perry : Surgeon's Mate, Surgeon, 6 November, 1770.

Rich. Orton : Clerk.

Stephen Forwood : Gunner.

John Gathray : Boatswain : Died : 4 February, 1771.

John Satterly : Carpenter : Died : 12 February, 1771.

John Thompson : Cook : Died : 31 January, 1771.

Sam Evans : Quarter Master, Boatswain, 6 February, 1771.

Alex. Weir : Quarter Master : Drowned : 14 September, 1768.

Thos. Hardman : Boatswain's Mate, A.B., 26 March, 1769, Sailmaker,
2 February, 1771.

John Reading : Boatswain's Mate : Died : 29 August, 1769.

Benjamin Jordan : Carpenter's Mate : Died : 31 January, 1771.

John Ravenhill : Sailmaker : Died : 27 January, 1771.

George Nowell : A.B., Carpenter, 14 February, 1771.

Isaac Parker : A.B., Boatswain's Mate, 26 November, 1769.

Robt. Anderson : A.B., Quarter Master, 16 September, 1768.

James Gray : A.B., Quarter Master, 6 February, 1771.

Robert Taylor : Armourer : Died : 1 August, 1771.

Rich. Hutchins : A.B., Boatswain's Mate, 1 September, 1769.

Joseph Childs : A.B., Cook, 1 February, 1771.

Peter Flowers : A.B. : Drowned : 2 December, 1768.

Timothy Rearden : A.B. : Died : 24 December, 1770.

John Rainsay : A.B.

William Dawson : A.B.

Francis Haite : A.B. : Died : 1 February, 1771.

Sam Jones. : A.B.

James Nicholson : A.B. : Died : 31 January, 1771.

Forby Sutherland : A.B. : Died : 30 April, 1770.

Thomas Simmonds : A.B.

Rich. Hughes : A.B., Carpenter's Mate, 14 February, 1771.

Sam Moody : A.B. : Died : 31 January, 1771.

Isaac Johnson : A.B.

Robt. Stainsby : A.B.

William Collett : A.B.

Archibald Wolfe : A.B. : Died : 31 January, 1771.

Matthew Cox : A.B.

Chas. Williams : A.B.

Alex. Simpson : A.B.. : Died : 21 February, 1771.

Thos. Knight : A.B.

Hy. Stevens : A.B.

Thos. Jones (2) : A.B.

Antony Ponto : A.B.

Jeh. Dozey : A.B. : Died : 7 April, 1771.

Jas. Tunley : A.B.

Mich. Littleboy : A.B.

John Goodjohn : A.B.

John Woodworth : A.B. : Died : 24 December, 1770.

William Peckover : A.B.

Robt. Littleboy : A.B.

Henry Jeffs : A.B. : Died : 27 February, 1771.

William Howson : Captain's Servant : Died : 30 June, 1771.

Nathl. Morey : Lieutenant's Servant.

Thos. Jones : Surgeon's Servant : Discharged : 5 November, 1770.

Ed. Terrell : Carpenter's Servant, A.B. 1 September, 1769.

Thos. Jordan : Boatswain's Servant.

Thos. Matthews : Cook's Servant.

Danl. Roberts : Gunner's Servant : Died. : 2 February, 1771.

John Thurmand (Pressed at Madeira) : A.B. : Died : 3 February, 1771.

MARINES.

John Edgecombe : Sergeant R.M.

John Trusslove : Corporal : Died : 24 January, 1771.

Thos. Rossiter : Drummer.

William Judge : Private.

Hy. Paul : Private.

Danl. Preston : Private : Died : 16 February, 1771.

William Wiltshire : Private.

William Greenslade : Private : Drowned : 6 April, 1769.

Saml. Gibson : Private, Corporal, 26 January, 1771.

Thos. Dunster : Private : Died : 26 January, 1771.

Clement Webb : Private.

John Bowles : Private.

CIVILIANS AND STAFF.

Joseph Banks, Esquire.

Charles Solander : Naturalist.

Charles Green : Astronomer : Died : 29 January, 1771.

John Reynolds : Artist : Died : 18 December, 1770.

Sydney Parkinson : Artist : Died : 26 January, 1771.

Alexander Buchan : Artist : Died : 17 April, 1769.

Herman Sporing : Died : -- : 24 January, 1771.

James Roberts : Servant.

Peter Briscoe : Servant.

Thomas Richmond : Negro Servant : Frozen to death : 16 January, 1769.

George Dorlton : Negro Servant : Frozen to death : 16 January, 1769.

TOTAL LOSS.

1768: Drowned 2.
1769: Drowned 1.
1769: Frozen 2.
1769: Died 2.
1770: Died 5.
1771: Died 26.
Total: 38.

***


A JOURNAL OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF HIS MAJESTY'S BARK ENDEAVOUR, ON A VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD, BY
LIEUTENANT JAMES COOK, COMMANDER, COMMENCING THE 25TH OF MAY, 1768.


EXPLANATION (FROM JOURNAL).

IT is necessary to premise by way of explanation, that in this Journal
(except while we lay at George's Island) the day is supposed to begin and
end at noon, as for instance, Friday the 27th May, began at noon on
Thursday 26th, and ended the following noon according to the natural day,
and all the courses and bearings are the true courses and bearings
according to the Globe, and not by Compass. The longitude is counted West
from the meridian of Greenwich where no other place is particularly
mentioned. The proportional length of the log-line to the half minute
glass, by which the ships run was measured, is as thirty seconds is to
thirty feet.

While the ship lay in port or was coasting in sight of land, or sailing
in narrow seas, this Journal is not kept in the usual form, but the
degrees of Latitude and Longitude the ship passes over are put down at
the top of each page, by which together with the notes in the margin* an
easy reference will be had to the Chart. (* These notes in the margin
have not been printed. ED.)


CHAPTER 1. ENGLAND TO RIO JANEIRO.

REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES ON BOARD HIS MAJESTY'S BARK ENDEAVOUR.

1768.

[May to July 1768.]

RIVER THAMES, Friday, May 27th, to Friday, July 29th. Moderate and fair
weather; at 11 a.m. hoisted the Pendant, and took charge of the Ship,
agreeable to my Commission of the 25th instant, she lying in the Bason in
Deptford Yard. From this day to the 21st of July we were constantly
employed in fitting the Ship, taking on board Stores and Provisions, etc.
The same day we sailed from Deptford and anchored in Gallions reach, were
we remained until the 30th. The transactions of Each Day, both while we
lay here and at Deptford, are inserted in the Log Book, and as they
contain nothing but common Occurrences, it was thought not necessary to
insert them here.

[July to August 1768.]

July 30th to August 7th. Saturday, July 30th, Weighed from Gallions, and
made sail down the River, the same day Anchored at Gravesend, and the
next Morning weighed from thence, and at
Noon Anchored at the Buoy of the Fairway. On Wednesday, 3rd of August,
Anchored in the Downs in 9 fathoms of water, Deal Castle North-West by
West. On Sunday, 7th, I joined the Ship, discharged the Pilot, and the
next day saild for Plymouth.

Monday, 8th. Fresh Breezes and Cloudy weather the most part of these 24
hours. At 10 a.m. weighed and came to sail; at Noon the South Foreland
bore North-East 1/2 North, distant 6 or 7 Miles. Wind West by North,
North-West.

Tuesday, 9th. Gentle breezes and Cloudy weather. At 7 p.m. the Tide being
against us, Anchored in 13 fathoms of Water; Dungeness South-West by
West. At 11 a.m. Weighed and made Sail down Channel; at Noon, Beachy
Head, North by East 1/2 East, distant 6 Leagues, Latitude observed 50
degrees 30 minutes North. Wind North-West to North.

Wednesday, 10th. Variable: light Airs and Clear weather. At 8 p.m. Beachy
Head North-East by East, distant 4 Leagues, and at 8 a.m. it bore
North-East by North, 9 Leagues. Found the Variation of the Compass to be
23 degrees West; at Noon the Isle of Wight North-West by North. Wind West
by North, North-East by East.

Thursday, 11th. Light Airs and Clear weather. At 8 p.m. Dunnose North by
West 5 Leagues, and at 4 a.m. it bore North-North-East 1/2 East, distant
5 Leagues. Wind Variable.

Wednesday, 12th. Light Airs and Calms all these 24 Hours. At Noon the
Bill of Portland bore North-West 1/2 West, distant 3 Leagues. Latitude
Observed 50 degrees 24 minutes North. Wind Easterly.

Thursday, 13th. Ditto weather. At Noon the Start Point West 7 or 8 miles.
Latitude Observed 50 degrees 12 minutes North, which must be the Latitude
of the Start, as it bore West.* (* This is correct.) Wind Variable.

Sunday, 14th. Fine breezes and Clear weather. At 1/2 past 8 p.m. Anchored
in the Entrance of Plymouth Sound in 9 fathoms water. At 4 a.m. weighed
and worked into proper Anchoring ground, and Anchored in 6 fathoms, the
Mewstone South-East, Mount Batten North-North-East 1/2 East, and Drake's
Island North by West. Dispatched an Express to London for Mr. Banks and
Dr. Solander to join the Ship, their Servants and Baggage being already
on board. Wind North-Easterly.

Monday, 15th. First and latter parts Moderate breezes and fair; Middle
squally, with heavy showers of rain. I this day received an order to
Augment the Ship's Company to 85 Men, which before was but 70. Received
on board fresh Beef for the Ship's Company. Wind South-West to
South-East.

Tuesday, 16th. First part moderate and Hazey; Middle hard Squalls with
rain; the Latter moderate and fair. Received on board a supply of Bread,
Beer, and Water. A Sergeant, Corporal, Drummer, and 9 Private Marines as
part of the Complement. Wind South-South-East to North-East.

Wednesday, 17th. Little wind and Hazey weather. Sent some Cordage to the
Yard in order to be Exchanged for Smaller. Several Shipwrights and
Joiners from the Yard Employed on board refitting the Gentlemen's Cabins,
and making a Platform over the Tiller, etc. Wind South-East to East by
South.

Thursday, 18th. Little wind and Cloudy. Struck down 4 guns into the Hold.
Received on board 4 More, with 12 Barrels of Powder and several other
Stores. Shipwrights and Joiners Employed on board. Wind Easterly.

Friday, 19th. Former part little wind with rain; remainder fair weather;
a.m. Read to the Ship's Company the Articles of War and the Act of
Parliament, they likewise were paid two Months' Wages in advance. I also
told them that they were to Expect no additional pay for the performance
of our intended Voyage; they were well satisfied, and Expressed great
Cheerfulness and readiness to prosecute the Voyage. Received on board
another Supply of Provisions, Rum, etc. Wind North-West to South-West.

Saturday, 20th. First part little wind with rain; remainder fresh Gales
and thick rainy weather. Employed making ready for Sea. Wind
West-South-West.

Sunday, 21st. Fresh Gales and Ditto Weather. The Shipwrights having
finished their Work, intended to have sailed, instead of which was
obliged to let go another Anchor. Wind South-West, West-South-West.

Monday, 22nd. Fresh Gales, with heavy squalls of Wind and Rain all this
24 hours. Wind South-West.

Tuesday, 23rd. Ditto weather. Struck Yards and Topmasts; Anchored between
the Island and the Main His Majesty's Ship Gibraltar. Wind West by South.

Wednesday, 24th. Fresh Gales and Hazey weather; a.m. hove up the Small
Bower Anchor and got Topmasts and Yards. Wind West by South.

Thursday, 25th. Moderate and Cloudy weather; a.m. received on Board a
supply of Beer and Water, and returned all our Empty Casks. Loosed the
Topsails as a Signal for Sailing. Wind West, North by West, North-West by
West.

[Sailed from Plymouth.]

Friday, 26th. First part fresh Breezes and Cloudy, remainder little wind
and Clear. At 2 p.m. got under Sail and put to Sea, having on board 94
Persons, including Officers, Seamen, Gentlemen, and their Servants; near
18 Months' Provisions, 10 Carriage Guns, 12 Swivels, with good Store of
Ammunition and Stores of all kinds. At 8 the Dodman Point
West-North-West, distant 4 or 5 Leagues; at 6 a.m. the Lizard bore
West-North-West 1/2 West, 5 or 6 Leagues distant. At Noon Sounded and had
50 fathoms, Grey sand with small Stones and broken Shells. Wind North by
West, North-West, West by South; course South 21 degrees East; distance
23 miles; latitude 49 degrees 30 minutes North, longitude 5 degrees 52
minutes West; at noon, Lizard North 21 degrees West distant 23 miles.

Saturday, 27th. First part Light Airs and Clear weather, remainder fresh
breezes and Cloudy. Berthed the Ship's Company, Mustered the Chests and
Stove all that were unnecessary. Wind North-West, North-East, South-East;
course South-West; distance 77 miles; latitude 48 degrees 42 minutes
North, longitude 6 degrees 49 minutes West; at noon, Lizard North 29
degrees East, 80 miles.

Sunday, 28th. Former part fresh Gales and Hazey with rain; remainder a
Moderate breeze and Cloudy. Wind Easterly; course South 48 degrees West;
distance 130 miles; latitude 47 degrees 16 minutes North, longitude 9
degrees 7 minutes West; at noon Lizard North 40 degrees 5 minutes East;
69 leagues.

Monday, 29th. Light Airs and Hazey the Most part of these 24 hours with
some Rain. Wind North-Westerly; course South 21 degrees West; distance 41
miles; latitude 46 degrees 38 minutes North, longitude 9 degrees 29
minutes West; at noon, Lizard North 37 degrees 45 minutes East, 86
leagues.

Tuesday, 30th. Fresh Gales all these 24 Hours. At 1/2 past 1 p.m. Spoke
with His Majesty's Ship Guardaloupe; at 6 Close Reeft the Topsails, and
got down the Top Gallant Yards. Wind Westerly; course South 27 degrees
West; distance 33 miles; latitude 46 degrees 9 minutes North, longitude 9
degrees 52 minutes West; at noon, Lizard North 36 degrees East, 96
leagues.

Wednesday, 31st. First and Middle parts, Moderate breezes and Clear;
Latter, fresh Gales and Cloudy. At 6 p.m. loosed the 2nd Reef out of the
Topsails, and at 8 a.m. took them in again; at Noon Tacked and stood to
the North-West, having stood before to the Southward. Wind West to
South-West; course South 36 degrees East; distance 82 miles; latitude 45
degrees 3 minutes North, longitude 8 degrees 43 minutes West; at noon,
Lizard North-North-East, 105 leagues.

[September 1768. Plymouth to Madeira.]

Thursday, September 1st. Very hard gales, with some heavy showers of
Rain, the most part of these 24 Hours, which brought us under our two
Courses, Broke one of our Main Topmast phuttock Plates, washed overboard
a small Boat belonging to the Boatswain, and drowned between 3 and 4
Dozen of our Poultry, which was worst of all. Towards Noon it moderated,
so that we could bear our Maintopsail close Reefd. At Midnight wore and
stood to the Southward. Wind Westerly; course South 70 degrees West;
distance 20 miles; latitude 44 degrees 56 minutes North, longitude 9
degrees 9 minutes West; at noon, Lizard North 28 degrees 15 minutes West,
109 leagues.

Friday, 2nd. Fresh Gales and Cloudy the most part of these 24 hours. P.M.
got up the spare Mainsail to dry, it being Wet by the Water getting into
the Sail room, occasioned by the Ship being very Leakey in her upper
works. At 5 a.m. loosed 2 Reefs out of each Topsail, and saw the Land,
which we judged to be Cape Finister and Cape Ortugal. At 10 Tackt, being
about 4 miles off Shore, and stood to the North-West; at Noon, Cape
Ortugal bore East by South, distance about 8 Leagues. Wind North by West,
West, South-West, West-South-West; course South by West; distance 64
miles; latitude 43 degrees 53 minutes North, longitude 9 degrees 26
minutes West; at noon, Lizard North-North-East, 130 leagues.

Saturday, 3rd. First part little wind and Hazey, with rain; remainder
strong Gales with hard squalls, which brought us under our close Reeft
Topsails, and obliged us to strike Topgallant Yards. At 8 a.m. wore ship
and stood to the Southward. Wind South-West and West; course South 68
degrees 45 minutes West; distance 44 miles; latitude 44 degrees 9 minutes
North, longitude 10 degrees 20 minutes West; at noon, Lizard North 29 1/2
degrees East, 138 leagues.

Sunday, 4th. Fore part fresh Gales and Clear; remainder light Airs and
Calm. At 6 a.m. Cape Finister bore South by West 1/2 West, distance 10 or
11 leagues. Loosed all the Reefs out of the Topsails, and got Topgallant
Yards across. Wind Westerly, Calm; at noon, Island of Cyserga,* (*
Sisarga, near Coruna.) East-South-East 3 leagues.

Monday, 5th. Light breezes and Calm all these 24 hours. At 2 p.m. had an
Observation of the Sun and Moon, which gave the Longitude 8 degrees 42
minutes West from Greenwich. At 6 Cape Finister bore South by West 1/2
West, 6 Leagues. Variation of the Compass per Azimuth 18 degrees 42
minutes West. At Noon, Cape Finister South by East, distant 4 leagues;
latitude observed 43 degrees 4 minutes, therefore Cape Finister must lay
in latitude 42 degrees 53 minutes North.* (* This is correct.) Wind
Westerly, North-West, Calm.

Tuesday, 6th. Moderate breezes and Clear weather these 24 Hours. A.M.
found the Variation by the Mean of 5 Azimuth to be 21 degrees 40 minutes
West, 3 Degrees more than what it was found Yesterday, which I cannot
account for,* (* Cook, as all other navigators of his time, was unaware
of the deviation of the compass caused by the iron of the ship.) as both
Observations appeared to me to be equally well made. At 10.28 had an
Observation of the sun and moon, which gave the Longitude 9 degrees 40
minutes West from Greenwich. By this Observation Cape Finister must lay
in 8 degrees 52 minutes, and by that made yesterday in 8 degrees 40
minutes. The Mean of the two is 8 degrees 46 minutes West of Greenwich
the Longitude of the Cape,* (* The correct longitude is 9 degrees 15
minutes West.) its latitude being 42 degrees 53 minutes North. Wind
North-West; course South 42 degrees West; distance 70 miles; latitude 42
degrees 1 minute North, longitude 9 degrees 50 minutes West; at noon,
Cape Finister North 42 degrees East, 70 miles.

Wednesday, 7th. Moderate breezes and Clear weather; found the Variation
to be 21 degrees 4 minutes West. Wind West-North-West; course South by
West; distance 92 miles; latitude 40 degrees 29 minutes North, longitude
10 degrees 11 minutes West; at noon, Cape Finister North 13 degrees East,
49 leagues.

Thursday, 8th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy weather. A.M. Past by 2 Sail, which
were standing to the North-East. Wind West-North-West to West by South;
course South 4 degrees East; distance 111 miles; latitude 38 degrees 33
minutes North, longitude 10 degrees West; at noon, Cape Finister North 12
degrees East, 88 leagues.

Friday, 9th. First part fresh Gales; remainder moderate breezes and fine,
Clear weather. Set up the Topmast rigging, and found the Variation to be
19 degrees 50 minutes West. Wind West by North to North-East; course
South 40 degrees West; distance 116 miles; latitude 37 degrees 4 minutes
North, longitude 11 degrees 33 minutes West; at noon, Cape Finister North
20 degrees East, 124 leagues.

Saturday, 10th. A steady, fresh breeze and fine Clear weather. Found the
Variation of the Compys by the Evening and Morning Amplitude and by 2
Azimuth to be 20 degrees 59 minutes West. Wind North-East by East; course
South 36 minutes West; distance 130 miles; latitude 35 degrees 20 minutes
North, longitude 13 degrees 28 minutes West; at noon, Cape Finister North
24 degrees East, 166 leagues.

Sunday, 11th. The same Winds and weather Continue. Found the Variation to
be this Evening 18 degrees 54 minutes, and in the Morning 17 degrees 58
minutes West, they both being the mean result of several good
Observations. Wind North-East by East, North by East; course South 32
degrees West; distance 94 miles; latitude 34 degrees 1 minute North,
longitude 14 degrees 29 minutes West; at noon, Cape Finister North 26 1/2
degrees East, 198 leagues.

Monday, 12th. Moderate breezes and fine Clear weather. At 6 a.m. the
Island of Porto Santo bore North-West by West, distance 9 or 10 leagues.
Hauld the Wind to the westward at noon, the Deserters extending from
West-South-West to South-West by South, the Body of Madeira West 1/2
South, and Porto Santo North-North-West 1/2 West. Wind North-North-West;
course South 40 degrees West; distance 102 miles; latitude 32 degrees 43
minutes North, longitude 15 degrees 53 minutes West.

Tuesday, 13th. Fresh breezes and clear weather. At 8 p.m. anchored in
Funchal Road in 22 fathoms. Found here His Majesty's Ship Rose and
several Merchants' Vessels. In the Morning new berthed the Ship, and
Moor'd with the Stream Anchor, half a Cable on the Best Bower and a
Hawser and a half on the Stream Wind North-West.

MOORED IN FUNCHAL ROAD, MADEIRA, Wednesday, 14th. First part fine, Clear
weather, remainder Cloudy, with Squals from the land, attended with
Showers of rain. In the Night the Bend of the Hawsers of the Stream
Anchor Slip'd owing to the Carelessness of the Person who made it fast.
In the Morning hove up the Anchor in the Boat and carried it out to the
Southward. In heaving the Anchor out of the Boat Mr. Weir, Master's Mate,
was carried overboard by the Buoy rope and to the Bottom with the Anchor.
Hove up the Anchor by the Ship as soon as possible, and found his Body
intangled in the Buoy rope. Moor'd the Ship with the two Bowers in 22
fathoms Water; the Loo Rock West and the Brazen Head East. Saild His
Majesty's Ship Rose. The Boats employed carrying the Casks a Shore for
Wine, and the Caulkers caulking the Ship Sides. Wind Easterly.

Thursday, 15th. Squals of Wind from the Land, with rain the most part of
these 24 Hours. Received on board fresh Beef and Greens for the Ship's
Company, and sent on shore all our Casks for Wine and Water, having a
Shore Boat employed for that purpose. Wind North-East to South-East.

Friday, 16th. The most part fine, Clear weather. Punished Henry Stevens,
Seaman, and Thomas Dunster, Marine, with 12 lashes each, for refusing to
take their allowance of Fresh Beef. Employed taking on board Wine and
Water. Wind Easterly.

Saturday, 17th. Little wind, and fine Clear weather. Issued to the whole
Ship's Company 20 pounds of Onions per Man. Employed as Yesterday. Wind
Westerly.

Sunday, 18th. Ditto Weather. P.M. received on board 270 pounds of fresh
Beef, and a Live Bullock charged 613 pounds. Compleated our Wine and
Water, having received of the former 3032 Gallons, of the Latter 10 Tuns.
A.M. unmoor'd and prepar'd for Sailing. Funchall, in the Island of
Madeira, by Observations made here by Dr. Eberton, F.R.S., lies in the
latitude of 32 degrees 33 minutes 33 seconds North and longitude West
from Greenwich 16 degrees 49 minutes,* (* Modern determination is 32
degrees 38 minutes North, 16 degrees 54 minutes West.) the Variation of
the Compass 15 degrees 30 minutes West, decreasing as he says, which I
much doubt;* (* Cook was right: the variation was increasing.) neither
does this Variation agree with our own Observations. The Tides flow full,
and Change North and South, and rise Perpendicular 7 feet at Spring Tides
and 4 feet at Niep tides. We found the North point of the Diping Needle,
belonging to the Royal Society, to Dip 77 degrees 18 minutes. The
Refreshments for Shipping to be got at this place are Wine, Water, Fruit
of Several Sorts, and Onions in Plenty, and some Sweatmeats; but Fresh
Meat and Poultry are very Dear, and not to be had at any rate without
Leave from the Governour. Wind southerly, East-South-East, South-West.

[Sailed from Madeira.]

Monday, 19th. Light breezes and fine Clear weather. At Midnight Sailed
from Funchall. At 8 a.m. the high land over it bore North 1/2 East.
Unbent the Cables, stow'd the Anchors, and issued to the Ship's Company
10 pounds of Onions per Man. Ship's Draught of Water, Fore 14 feet 8
inches; Aft 15 feet 1 inch. Wind East-South-East; latitude 31 degrees 43
minutes North; at noon, High land over Funchall North 7 degrees East, 49
miles.

Tuesday, 20th. Light Airs and Clear weather. P.M. took several Azimuth,
which gave the Variation 16 degrees 30 minutes West. Put the Ship's
Company to three Watches. Wind variable; course South 21 degrees 30
minutes West; distance 28 miles; latitude 31 degrees 17 minutes,
longitude 17 degrees 19 minutes West; at noon, Funchall, Island of
Madeira, North 13 degrees East, 76 miles.

Wednesday, 21st. First part light Airs, remainder fresh Breezes and Clear
weather. Served Hooks and Lines to the Ship's Company, and employed them
in the day in making Matts, etc., for the Rigging. Wind South-West to
South-West by West; course South 60 degrees East; distance 60 miles;
latitude 30 degrees 46 minutes North, longitude 16 degrees 8 minutes
South; at noon, Funchall North 10 degrees West, 113 miles.

Thursday, 22nd. Genteel breezes and Clear weather. At 4 p.m. saw the
Salvages bearing South; at 6, the Body of the Island bore South 1/2 West,
distant about 5 leagues. Found the Variation of the Compass by an Azimuth
to be 17 degrees 50 minutes West. At 10 the Isles of Salvages bore West
by South 1/2 South, distance 2 leagues. I make those Islands to be in
latitude 30 degrees 11 minutes South, and South 16 degrees East, 58
leagues from Funchall, Madeira. Wind South-West; course South 35 degrees
30 minutes East; distance 73 miles; latitude 29 degrees 40 minutes North,
longitude 15 degrees 31 minutes West; at noon, Funchall North 21 degrees
West, 62 leagues.

Friday, 23rd. Light breezes and Clear weather. At 6 a.m. saw the Peak of
Teneriff bearing West by South 1/2 South, and the Grand Canaries South
1/2 West. The Variation of the Compass from 17 degrees 22 minutes to 16
degrees 30 minutes, Wind South-West, North-East; course South 26 degrees
West; distance 54 miles; latitude 28 degrees 51 minutes North, longitude
15 degrees 50 minutes West; at noon, Funchal North 12 degrees 45 minutes
West, 77 leagues.

Saturday, 24th. A fresh Breeze and Clear weather the most part of these
24 Hours. I take this to be the North-East Trade we have now got into. At
6 p.m. the North-East end of the Island of Teneriff West by North,
distance 3 or 4 Leagues. Off this North-East point lies some Rocks high
above the water. The highest is near the point, and very remarkable. By
our run from Yesterday at Noon this end of the Island must lie in the
latitude of 28 degrees 27 minutes and South 7 degrees 45 minutes East,
distance 83 leagues from Funchal, and South 18 degrees West, 98 miles
from the Salvages. At 1 a.m. the Peak of Teneriff bore West-North-West.
Found the Variation to be this morning 16 degrees 14 minutes West. The
Peak of Teneriff (from which I now take my departure) is a very high
Mountain upon the Island of the same name--one of the Canary Islands. Its
perpendicular higth from Actual Measurement is said to be 15,396 feet.*
(* The received height is 12,180 feet. Latitude 28 degrees 16 minutes
North, Longitude 16 degrees 38 minutes West.) It lies in the Latitude of
28 degrees 13 minutes North, and Longitude 16 degrees 32 minutes from
Greenwich. Its situation in this respect is allowed to be pretty well
determined. Wind North-East by East; latitude 27 degrees 10 minutes
North; at noon Peak of Teneriff North 18 degrees 45 minutes, 74 miles.

Sunday, 25th. A Steady Trade Wind and Clear Weather. The Variation by the
Amplitude this Evening was 14 degrees 58 minutes West. Wind East by
North, East-North-East; course South 41 degrees West; distance 126 miles;
latitude 25 degrees 36 minutes North; at noon Peak of Teneriff North 33
degrees 15 minutes East, 61 leagues.

Monday, 26th. Fresh breezes and somewhat Hazey. Variation by this Evening
Amplitude 15 degrees 1 minute West. Wind North-East by East; course South
22 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 122 miles; latitude 23 degrees 43
minutes North; at noon Peak of Teneriff North 29 degrees East, 317 miles.

Tuesday, 27th. Ditto weather. Served Wine to the Ship's Company, the Beer
being all Expended but 2 Casks, which I intend to keep some time Longer,
as the whole has proved very good to the last Cask. At Noon found the
Ship by Observation 10 miles a Head of the Log, which I suppose may be
owing to a Current setting in the same direction of the Trade Wind. Wind
North-East; course South 19 degrees West; distance 145 miles; latitude 21
degrees 26 minutes North; at noon, Peak of Teneriff, North 26 degrees
East, 154 leagues.

Wednesday, 28th. A Fresh Trade wind and Hazey weather. The Variation of
the Compass by the mean of Several Azimuth taken this Evening 12 degrees
46 minutes, and in the Morning by the same Method 12 degrees 43 minutes
West. This day's Log and Observed Latitude agree, which is not
reconcilable to Yesterday. Exercised the People at Small Arms. Wind
North-East, East-North-East; course South 12 degrees 30 minutes West;
distance 150 miles; latitude 18 degrees 59 minutes North; at noon, Peak
of Teneriff North 23 degrees 15 minutes East, 204 leagues.

Thursday, 29th. Fresh breezes and Hazey weather. The Variation 12 degrees
33 minutes West; the Observed Latitude ahead of that given by the Log 10
miles. Wind North-East by North; course South 14 degrees West; distance
90 miles; latitude 17 degrees 32 minutes North; at noon Peak of Teneriff,
North 33 degrees East, 236 leagues.

[Off Cape de Verd Islands.]

Friday, 30th. A Steady breeze and Pleasant weather. At 6 a.m. saw the
Island of Bonavista (one of the Cape de Verd islands), Extending from
South by East to South-West by South, distance 3 or 4 Leagues. Ranged the
East side of this Island at the Distance of 3 or 4 miles from the Shore,
until we were obliged to Haul Off to avoid a Ledge of Rocks which
stretched out South-West by West from the Body or South-East Point of the
Island 1 1/2 leagues. Had no ground with 40 fathoms a Mile without this
Ledge. The Island of Bonavista is in Extent from North to South about 5
leagues, is of a very uneven and hilly Surface, with low sandy beaches on
the East side. The South-East part of the Island, from which I take my
Departure, by an Observation this day at Noon lies in the latitude of 16
degrees North, and according to our run from Madeira in the longitude of
21 degrees 51 minutes West from Greenwich, and South 21 degrees West; 260
leagues from Tenerriff. Drawings Numbers 1 and 2 represent the appearance
of the East side of this Island, where (2) is the South-East point, with
the hill over it, which is high, of a round Figure, and the southermost
on the Island. Wind North-East; course South 12 degrees 30 minutes West;
distance 97 miles; latitude 15 degrees 37 minutes North per observation;
Teneriffe, North 20 degrees 43 minutes East, 262 1/3 leagues; at noon the
hill on the South-East Point of the Island Bonavista North 69 degrees
West, distant from the shore 3 leagues.

[October 1768.]

Saturday, October 1st. A steady gale and somewhat Hazey. Variation by
very good Azimuths this Evening 10 degrees 37 minutes, and by the same in
the Morning 10 degrees 0 minutes West; at Noon found the ship a Head of
the Log 5 Miles. Wind North, North-North-East; course South 12 degrees 12
minutes West; distance 114 miles; latitude 14 degrees 6 minutes North,
longitude 22 degrees 10 minutes West; at noon Island of Bonavista,
South-East point, North 9 degrees West, 116 miles.

Sunday, 2nd. First part a Steady breeze and pleasant weather, remainder
light breezes and Cloudy. At noon found the Ship by Observation ahead of
the Log 7 miles. Wind North by East, North-North-West; course South 1
degree West; distance 92 miles; latitude 12 degrees 34 minutes North,
longitude 22 degrees 10 minutes West; at noon Bonavista, South-East
point, North 5 degrees 45 minutes East, 69 leagues.

Monday, 3rd. Cloudy weather, with light winds and Calms. Variation by
this Evening Amplitude South 8 degrees 49 minutes West. A.M. hoisted out
a Boat to try if there was any Current; found one setting to the
South-East at the rate of 3/4 of a Mile per hour. Wind North, calm,
South-South-West 1/2 West; course South 3 degrees 30 minutes East;
distance 20 miles; latitude 12 degrees 14 minutes North, longitude 22
degrees 10 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 5
degrees East, 76 leagues.

Tuesday, 4th. Calm for the Greatest part of the 24 Hours. By an
Observation we had this Morning of the Sun and Moon found our Selves in
the Longitude of 22 degrees 32 minutes 30 seconds West from Greenwich;
that by account is 21 degrees 58 minutes, the Difference being 34 miles
Westerly, which does not agree with the Setting of the Current, for
having try'd it twice to-day and found it set to the East-South-East 1
Mile per Hour, and at the same time found the Ship to the Southward of
the Log by the Noon Observation 10 miles. Served Portable soup and Sour
kroutt to the Ship's Company. Wind variable; course South 53 degrees
West; distance 17 miles; latitude 11 degrees 53 minutes North, longitude
22 degrees 33 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 2
degrees East, 82 leagues.

Wednesday, 5th. Light breezes of Wind, sometimes Clear and sometimes
Cloudy weather. Variation 6 degrees 10 minutes West by an Amplitude and
Azimuth this evening. At noon found the Ship by the Observed Latitude 7
Miles to the Southward of the Log, and by the Observed Longitude 30
degrees to the Eastward of Yesterday's Observations; and as these
Observations for finding the Longitude (if carefully observed with good
Instrument) will generally come within 10 or 15 Miles of each other, and
very often much nearer, it therefore can be no longer in Doubt but that
there is a Current setting to the Eastward;* (* This was the Counter
Equatorial Current.) yet we cannot have had this Current long, because
the Longitude by account and that by Observation agree to-day, but
Yesterday she was 28 miles to the Westward of the Observation. Wind calm,
North-East, East; course South 29 degrees East; distance 57 miles;
latitude 10 degrees 56 minutes North, longitude 22 degrees 3 minutes
West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 2 degrees East, 101
leagues.

Thursday, 6th. First part light Breezes and Cloudy; Middle frequent heavy
Squalls, with rain, till towards Noon when we had again little wind.
Found the Variation by the mean of 3 Azimuth, taken this Morning, to be 8
degrees 52 minutes West, which makes the Variation found Yesterday
doubtful. Wind North-East, South-East, Southerly; course South 10 degrees
30 minutes West; distance 77 miles; latitude 9 degrees 40 minutes North,
longitude 22 degrees 28 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East
point, North 4 degrees East, 128 leagues.

Friday, 7th. Variable light Airs and Calm all these 24 Hours. At Noon
found the Current to set South-East 1/4 South one Mile per hour, and yet
by Observation at Noon I find the Ship 12 Miles to the Northward of
Account, a Circumstance that hath not hapned for many days, and which I
believe to be owing to the heavy Squalls we had Yesterday from the
South-East, which obliged us to put frequently before the Wind. Wind
Southerly, calm, Northerly; course South 5 degrees West; distance 10
miles; latitude 9 degrees 42 minutes North, longitude 22 degrees 19
minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 4 degrees East,
127 leagues.

[Between Cape de Verd Islands and Equator.]

Saturday, 8th. First part, light Airs and Clear weather; Middle, Squally,
with Thunder and Lightning all round; latter part, Moderate breezes and
Clear weather. Had several Azimuths both in the Evening and Morning,
which gave the Variation South 8 degrees 30 minutes West. At Noon found
by Observation that the Ship had outrun the Log 20 Miles, a Proof that
there is a Current setting to the Southward. Wind North-East by North to
East-South-East; course South by East; distance 78 miles; latitude 8
degrees 25 minutes North, longitude 22 degrees 4 minutes West; at noon,
Bonavista, South-East point, North 1 degree 45 minutes East, 152 leagues.

Sunday, 9th. Light Airs and fine Clear weather. Found the Variation by a
great Number of Azimuth made this Afternoon to be 8 degrees 21 minutes 30
seconds West, and by the Morning Amplitude 7 degrees 48 minutes. At Noon
try'd the Current, and found it set North-North-West 3/4 West, 1 1/8
miles per hour. The Shifting of the Current was conformed by the Observed
Latitude Wind East-South-East; course South 16 degrees West; distance 29
miles; latitude 7 degrees 58 minutes North, longitude 22 degrees 13
minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 2 degrees 40
minutes, 161 leagues.

Monday, 10th. First part, light breezes and Clear weather; Middle,
squally, with heavy Showers of Rain; latter, Variable, light Airs and
Calm and dark gloomy weather. At 3 p.m. found the Current to set
North-North-East 1/4 East, 1 1/4 Mile per Hour, and at Noon found it to
set North-East 3/4 North at the same rate, and the Variation to be 8
degrees 39 minutes West by the Mean of Several Azimuth. Wind South-East
by East, Southerly; course South; distance 10 miles; latitude 7 degrees
48 minutes North; longitude 22 degrees 13 minutes West; at noon,
Bonavista, South-East point, North 3 degrees East, 164 leagues.

Tuesday, 11th. Very Variable weather, with frequent Squalls rain, and
Lightning. By the Observed Latitude at Noon I find the Ship hath only
made 22 Miles Southing since the last Observation two days ago, whereas
the Log gives 55 Miles, a Proof that there is a Current setting to the
Northward. Wind South-East; course South 52 degrees West; distance 18
miles; latitude 7 degrees 36 minutes North, longitude 22 degrees 8
minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 3 degrees East,
168 leagues.

Wednesday, 12th. Much the same weather as Yesterday the first part, the
remainder mostly Calm and cloudy weather. A.M. try'd the Current and
found it set South by West 1/4 West, 1/2 Mile per Hour, which is not
agreeable to yesterday's remark. Wind variable; course South 33 degrees
30 minutes West; distance 20 miles; latitude 7 degrees 21 minutes North,
longitude 22 degrees 39 minutes West; at noon Bonavista North 5 degrees
East, 174 leagues.

Thursday, 13th. Light Airs of Wind, with some heavy showers of rain.
Variation by Azimuth and Amplitude this Evening 8 degrees 46 minutes
West. At Noon try'd the Current, and found it set South 3/4 East, 1/3 of
a Mile per Hour; but finding the Observation and Log agree, I am
inclinable to think it hath had no effect upon the Ship. Wind South-West,
West-South-West; course South 16 degrees 45 minutes East; distance 21
miles; latitude 7 degrees 1 minute North, longitude 22 degrees 32 minutes
West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 5 degrees East, 181
leagues.

Friday, 14th. Dark, gloomy weather, with much rain, the Wind Variable
from West-South-West to South-South-East, sometimes on one Tack and
sometimes on the other. Wind West-South-West to South-South-East; course
South 5 degrees East; distance 24 miles; latitude 6 degrees 38 minutes
North, longitude 22 degrees 30 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista,
South-East point, North 3 degrees 15 minutes, 188 leagues.

Saturday, 15th. First part, little wind and Cloudy; Middle, Squally, with
rain; latter part, light Airs and Clear weather. A little before Noon
took several Observations of the sun and moon, the mean result of which
gave the Longitude to be 23 degrees 46 minutes West from Greenwich, which
is 1 degree 22 minutes more Westerly than that by account carried on from
the last Observation; and the Observed Latitude is 24 Miles more
Northerly than the Log since the Last Observation 2 days ago, all of
which shows that the North-Westerly Current hath prevailed for this some
Days past. Wind South-South-West to South-East; course South 30 degrees
East per log; distance 12 miles; latitude 6 degrees 50 minutes North;
longitude 22 degrees 23 minutes West per account, 23 degrees 46 minutes
per sun and moon; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North by East,
187 leagues.

Sunday, 16th. First part Calm, the remainder Gentle breezes and fine,
Pleasant weather. At 3 hours 30 minutes 39 seconds Apparent time p.m. the
observed distance of the sun and moon's nearest Limb was 52 degrees 42
minutes 30 seconds; the Altitude of the sun's lower limb 32 degrees 39
minutes; the Altitude of the moon's lower limb 58 degrees 36 minutes; the
longitude of the Ship from the aforegoing Observations 23 degrees 33
minutes 33 seconds West from Greenwich, differing 13 minutes from those
made this Morning or Yesterday, the Ship laying all the time becalmed.
Variation of the Compass 8 degrees 45 minutes West. Wind South-East,
variable, North-East; course South 2 degrees East; distance 72 miles;
latitude 5 degrees 38 minutes North, longitude 23 degrees 45 minutes
West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 5 degrees 15 minutes
East, 208 leagues.

Monday, 17th. Variable, light Airs and Calm clear weather. 1/2 past 1
p.m. took two Distances of the sun and moon, the first of which gave the
Longitude 23 degrees 45 minutes 56 seconds, and the last 23 degrees 44
minutes West, the difference being not quite two miles, which shows how
near to one another these observations can be made. Wind South,
South-East, variable; course South by West 1/2 West; distance 11 miles;
latitude 5 degrees 17 minutes North, longitude 23 degrees 47 minutes
West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 5 degrees 15 minutes
East, 212 leagues.

Tuesday, 18th. Sometimes little wind, sometimes Squally, with rain and
Lightning. Wind South to East-South-East; course South 48 degrees West;
distance 45 miles; latitude 4 degrees 47 Minutes North, longitude 24
degrees 23 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 12
degrees East, 229 leagues.

Wednesday, 19th. Fresh breezes and Cloudy weather. The Observed Latitude
to the Northward of that given by the Log 9 miles, which I suppose must
be owing to a Current. Wind South by East to South-East by South; course
South 42 degrees West; distance 88 miles; latitude 3 degrees 44 minutes
North, longitude 25 degrees 23 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista,
South-East point, North 14 degrees East, 253 leagues.

Thursday, 20th. A Genteel gale and Clear weather. At a little before 5
p.m. had an Observation of the sun and moon, which gave the Longitude 25
degrees 46 minutes West from Greenwich, which is more Westerly than that
by account carried on from the last Observation; and the Observed
latitude being again to the Northward shows that there must be a current
setting between the North and West. Wind South by East to South-East by
South; course South 52 degrees West; distance 48 miles; latitude 3
degrees 16 minutes North, longitude 26 degrees 20 minutes West; at noon,
Bonavista, North 18 degrees 30 minutes East, 270 leagues.

[Crossing Equator.]

Friday, 21st. A moderate breeze, and for the most part clear weather.
Longitude per the Mean of 2 Observations of the sun and moon made at 4
hours 45 minutes and at 4 hours 54 minutes p.m., 26 degrees 33 minutes
West. Variation of the Compass 4 degrees 7 minutes West, and the Observed
Latitude at Noon to the Northward of the Log 7 Miles. Wind South-East to
South-South-East; course South 58 degrees West; distance 57 miles;
latitude 2 degrees 46 minutes North, longitude 27 degrees 11 minutes
West; at noon, Bonavista South-East point, North 21 degrees East, 281
leagues.

Saturday, 22nd. Moderate breezes and fine, pleasant weather. Variation 3
degrees 17 minutes West. Wind South-East by South; course South 43
degrees 15 minutes West; distance 87 miles; latitude 1 degree 40 minutes
North, longitude 28 degrees 12 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista,
South-East point, North 23 degrees East, 312 leagues.

Sunday, 23rd. A moderate, Steady breeze and fine Clear weather. The Ship
by Observation at Noon is 8 Miles to the Northward of the Log. Wind
South-South-East; course South; distance 5 miles; latitude 1 degree 40
minutes North, longitude 28 degrees 12 West; at noon, Bonavista,
South-East point, North 23 degrees East, 312 leagues.

Monday, 24th. First part ditto weather; remainder fresh Breezes and
Cloudy, with some flying Showers of rain. Variation per Azimuth this
morning 3 degrees West. At Noon by Observation found the Ship 11 Miles
ahead of the Log. Wind South by East to South-East by South; course South
49 degrees West; distance 50 miles; latitude 1 degree 7 minutes North;
longitude 28 degrees 50 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East
point, North 25 degrees East, 328 leagues.

Tuesday, 25th. A Genteel breeze and Clear weather, with a Moist Air. Soon
after sunrise found the Variation of the Compass to be 2 degrees 24
minutes West, being the Mean result of several very good Azimuths. This
was just before we crossed the Line in the Longitude of 29 degrees 29
minutes West from Greenwich. We also try'd the Diping Needle belonging to
the Royal Society, and found the North point to Dip 26 degrees below the
Horizon; but this Instrument cannot be used at Sea to any great degree of
accuracy on account of the Motion of the Ship, which hinders the Needle
from resting. However, as the Ship was pretty steady, and by means of a
Swinging Table I had made for that purpose, we could be Certain of the
Dip to two Degrees at most. The Observed Latitude and that by account
nearly Agree. Wind South-East to South-East by East; course South 30
degrees West; distance 95 miles; latitude 0 degrees 15 minutes South,
longitude 29 degrees 30 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East
point, North 26 degrees East, 358 leagues.

Wednesday, 26th. First part light Airs and Cloudy weather, the remainder
a Moderate Breeze and Cloudy. After we had got an observation, and it was
no longer Doubted that we were to the Southward of the Line, the Ceremony
on this occasion practis'd by all Nations was not Omitted. Every one that
could not prove upon the Sea Chart that he had before Crossed the Line
was either to pay a Bottle of Rum or be Duck'd in the Sea, which former
case was the fate of by far the Greatest part on board; and as several of
the Men chose to be Duck'd, and the weather was favourable for that
purpose, this Ceremony was performed on about 20 or 30, to the no small
Diversion of the Rest. Wind South-East to South-South-East; course South
31 degrees West; distance 77 miles; latitude 1 degree 21 minutes South,
longitude 30 degrees 18 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East
point, North 25 degrees 30 minutes East, 385 leagues.

Thursday, 27th. Fresh Gales and Close Cloudy weather. Variation 2 degrees
48 minutes West. Wind South-South-East to South-East; course South 38
degrees 15 minutes West; distance 79 miles; latitude 2 degrees 23 minutes
South, longitude 31 degrees 7 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista,
South-East point, North 26 degrees East, 410 leagues.

Friday, 28th. Fresh Breeze and fine Clear weather. At a little past 1
a.m. Longitude in by the 3 following Observations--viz., by the Moon and
the star Arietis, 32 degrees 27 minutes; by the Moon and Pollux, 32
degrees 0 minutes 15 seconds; by ditto, 31 degrees 48 minutes 32 seconds;
the mean of the whole is 32 degrees 5 minutes 16 seconds West from
Greenwich, which is 31 minutes more Westerly than the longitude by
account carried on since the last Observation. The two first observations
were made and computed by Mr. Green, and the last by myself. The star
Arietis was on one side of the Moon and Pollux on the other. This day at
Noon, being nearly in the latitude of the Island Ferdinand Noronha, to
the Westward of it by some Charts and to the Eastward by others, was in
Expectation of seeing it or some of those Shoals that are laid down in
most Charts between it and the Main; but we saw neither one nor a Nother.
We certainly passed to the Eastward of the Island, and as to the Shoals,
I don't think they Exhist, grounding this my Opinion on the Journal of
some East India Ships I have seen who were detain'd by Contrary winds
between this Island and the Main, and being 5 or 6 Ships in Company,
doubtless must have seen some of them did they lay as Marked in the
Charts.* (* There is a very dangerous reef, As Rocas, 80 miles west of
Fernando Noronha. The Endeavour passed 60 miles east of latter.) Wind
South-East to South-East by East; course South 33 degrees West; distance
93 miles, latitude 3 degrees 41 minutes South, longitude 32 degrees 29
minutes West.

Saturday, 29th. Fresh Breezes and pleasant weather. Variation of the
Compass 2 degrees 25 minutes West. Wind East-South-East; course South by
West; distance 101 miles; latitude 5 degrees 25 minutes South, longitude
32 degrees 48" West.

Sunday, 30th. A Steady breeze, and for the most part close cloudy
weather. Variation by several Azimuths 1 degree 31 minutes West. At noon
the observed latitude 7 miles southward of account. Wind East-South-East;
course South 3/4 West; distance 107 miles; latitude 7 degrees 8 minutes
South, longitude 33 degrees 4 minutes West.

Monday, 31st. A Fresh breeze and Clear weather. Variation 0 degrees 15
minutes West. Observed Latitude again to the Southward of the Log. Wind
East to East-South-East; course, South 1/2 West; distance 114 miles;
latitude 9 degrees 1 minute South, longitude 33 degrees 16 minutes West.

[November 1768. Between Equator and Rio.]

Tuesday, November 1st. Moderate breezes, for the most part Cloudy.
Variation by the mean of Several Azimuths 0 degrees 58 minutes West in
the Evening, and in the Morning found it to be 0 degrees 18 minutes West.
Wind East-South-East; course South 3/4 West; distance 98 miles; latitude
10 degrees 38 minutes South.

Wednesday, 2nd. A Steady breeze and fine pleasant weather. This
Afternoon, by the mean of Several Azimuths and the Amplitude, found the
Variation to be 0 degrees 34 minutes East, from which it appears that
about the aforegoing Noon we have Crossed the Line of no Variation in the
Latitude of 10 degrees 38 minutes South, and, according to the following
Observations, in 32 degrees 0 minutes West longitude from Greenwich. At 5
hours 5 minutes 0 seconds Apparent time a.m. the longitude of the Ship
and the Observation of the moon and the star Aldebaran was found to be 32
degrees 0 minutes 45 seconds; at 8 hours 17 minutes 0 seconds, per sun
and moon, 32 degrees 25 minutes 0 seconds; and at 9 hours 0 minutes 16
seconds, 32 degrees 19 minutes 0 seconds. The mean of the three is 32
degrees 14 minutes 55 seconds. And again at 7 hours 12 minutes 52
seconds, per sun and moon, 32 degrees 10 minutes 4 seconds; and at 7
hours 19 minutes 42 seconds, per sun and moon, 32 degrees 15 minutes 20
seconds. The mean of these two is 32 degrees 12 minutes 42 seconds, and
the mean of the whole is 32 degrees 13 minutes 43 seconds West from
Greenwich, which is less by a whole Degree than that by account, which is
a Considerable Error to be made in 5 Days in these low Latitudes. One
would think from this that we must have had a Current setting to the
Eastward, which is not likely that it should set against the settled
trade wind. The 3 first of these Observations were made by Mr. Green, and
the 2 last by myself. Wind East-South-East, South; course South by West;
distance 132 miles; latitude 12 degrees 48 minutes South, longitude 32
degrees 20 minutes West per Observation.

Thursday, 3rd. A Fresh Trade wind and fair weather. Variation per Azimuth
this Evening 0 degrees 47 minutes East, and at a little past 9 a.m.
longitude in per sun and moon 33 degrees 0 minutes West of Greenwich.
Wind East by South-East; course South 15 degrees West; distance 128
miles; latitude 14 degrees 51 minutes South, longitude 33 degrees 7
minutes West.

Friday, 4th. A Steady Gale and fair weather. P.M. Variation per Azimuth 1
degree 29 minutes West, ditto 1 degree 28 minutes West, and by the
Amplitude 1 degree 12 minutes West; mean 1 degree 23 minutes West, by
which it appears that we have again Crossed the Line of no Variation. At
1/2 past 9 a.m. the longitude of the Ship, per Observation of the sun and
moon, 33 degrees 26 minutes 30 seconds. Wind East by South; course South
19 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 125 miles; latitude 16 degrees 49
minutes South, longitude 33 degrees 37 minutes West.

Saturday, 5th. Fine pleasant weather. Variation per Azimuth this morning
3 degrees 21 minutes East, which makes me Doubtful of the Variation found
yesterday, tho' at the time I had not the least room to doubt of the
Accuracy of the Observations. Longitude per Observation 34 degrees 43
minutes 30 seconds West. Wind East to North-East; course South 30 degrees
35 minutes West; distance 109 miles; latitude 18 degrees 22 minutes
South, longitude 34 degrees 50 minutes West.

Sunday, 6th. First and Latter part squally, with heavy Showers of rain;
middle moderate and fair. I now determined to put into Rio de Janeiro in
preferance to any other port in Brazil or Falkland Islands, for at this
place I knew we could recruit our Stock of Provisions, several Articles
of which I found we should in time be in want of, and at the same time
procure Live Stock and refreshment for the People; and from the reception
former Ships had met with here I doubted not but we should be well
received. Wind North-North-East, variable, South; course South 55 degrees
West; distance 74 miles; latitude 19 degrees 3 minutes South, longitude
35 degrees 50 minutes West.

Monday, 7th. Moderate breezes and Clear weather. P.M. found the Variation
to be 4 degrees 49 minutes East. At 6 Sounded and had 32 fathoms Water;
the Bottom Coral Rocks, fine Sand and Shells, which Soundings we carried
upon a South-West 1/2 West Course 9 or 10 leagues, and then had no ground
with 100 fathom. We were by our account and per run afterwards 54 Leagues
East from the Coast of Brazil and to the Southward of the Shoals called
Abrollos, as they are laid down in Most Charts. Wind South-East to
North-East; course South 58 degrees West; distance 68 miles; latitude 19
degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 36 degrees 50 minutes West.

Tuesday, 8th. Fresh breezes and Cloudy weather. P.M. variation by the
Mean of 12 Azimuths 5 degrees 26 minutes East, and by an Amplitude in the
Morning 7 degrees 52 minutes. At 6 a.m. saw the Land of Brazil bearing
North-West 1/2 North, distance 8 or 10 leagues. At 8 Sounded, had 37
fathoms, Coarse Sand, broken Shells, and Coral Rocks. At 9 brought too
and Spoke with a Fishing Boat, who informed us that the land in sight lay
to the Southward of Santo Espiritu. It appears high and Mountainous; the
drawing Number (3) exhibits a View of this Land as it appeared from the
Ship (A), being near to Santo Espiritu, and a remarkable hill (B) bore
North-West 1/2 North, distance 7 or 8 leagues. Made Sail in Shore, the
wind being Southerly. Had from the above Depth to 14 fathoms the same
sort of Bottom. Found the Ship at Noon by Observation 10 Miles to the
Southward of account, which I suppose to be occasioned by a Current
setting between the South and West. Wind North-North-East, North by West,
South-South-West to South by West; course South 50 degrees West; distance
140 miles; latitude 21 degrees 16 minutes South, longitude 37 degrees 35
minutes West.

Wednesday, 9th. First and Latter part Hazey, with a Moderate Breeze;
Middle, fresh Gales, with Thunder, Lightning, and rain. At 3 p.m. tack't
in 16 fathoms, distance from the Shore 5 Leagues, the land Extending from
the North-West by West to North-East. At 5 took the 2nd Reef in the
Topsails and got down Topgallant Yards, stood to the South-East until
Midnight, then tack'd, Sounding from 16 to 55 fathoms. At 8 a.m. Loosed
the Reefs out of the Topsails and got Topgallant Yards a Cross; unstowed
the Anchors and bent the Cables. At Noon Latitude Observed 21 degrees 29
minutes South, the Land Extending from South-West by South to
North-North-West, distance 4 leagues, Soundings from 55 to 10 fathoms.
Wind South-South-East, South-South-West, South; course South 62 degrees
15 minutes West; distance 28 miles; latitude 21 degrees 29 minutes South.

[Nearing Rio Janeiro.]

Thursday, 10th. Moderate breezes and Hazey upon the Land. Stood in for
the Shore South-West 1/2 West. Depth of water from 10 to 9 fathoms and
from 9 to 16 fathoms, being then 4 Leagues from the Land. From 16 fathoms
it shoalded gradually to 5 fathoms; then we tacked, being about 1 1/2
Leagues from the Shore. The extreams of the Land to the Southward, which
we took for Cape St. Thomas, bore South 3/4 West, distance 4 leagues. The
Land from Cape St. Thomas to the Northward lies North by East 1/2 East.
Along the Shore is low land covered with Wood and Sandy Beaches, but
inland are very high Mountains, the greatest part of them being hid in
the Clouds. Stood off until 5 in the Morning East and East by South.
Depth of Water 10, 20, 16, 23, and 30 fathoms. At Noon Latitude Observed
21 degrees 30 minutes; Depth of Water 14 fathoms; Grey sand with black
Specks. Extreams of the Land from South-West by West to North-North-West;
distance 12 or 14 leagues. Wind South-South-East, South-East by South,
South by East; course East 1/4 South; distance 17 miles; latitude 21
degrees 30 minutes South, longitude 37 degrees 43 minutes West per
account.

Friday, 11th. First and Latter parts, moderate breezes and fair, but
Cloudy and Hazey over the Land; middle, a fresh breeze and Cloudy. At 8
tack'd and Stood to the North-East. Extream of the Land to the southward,
which we took for Cape St. Thomas, South-West 1/2 South; distance 5 or 6
leagues; Depth of Water 13 fathoms, Grey sand. At 11 a.m. tack'd in 14
fathoms and Stood to the South-South-East, and at 3 a.m. Stood over a
Shoal or Bank of 6 fathoms, afterwards the Depth increased to 30 fathoms,
at Noon in 36 fathoms. Latitude Observed 22 degrees 37 minutes South,
which is 10 miles to the Southward of the Log. No Land in sight. Wind
South-East to East; course South 5 degrees West; distance 67 miles;
latitude 23 degrees 37 minutes South, longitude 37 degrees 49 minutes
West.

Saturday, 12th. Genteel breezes and fine Clear weather. At 2 p.m.
Sounded, but had no ground with 38 fathoms, and soon after sounded and
had none at 50 fathoms, from which it appears that we are to the
Southward of the Bank we have been upon this 2 days past. It Extends off
from the Land between the Latitude 21 degrees and 22 degrees nor less
than 18 or 20 Leagues, How much farther I know not. Standing in from Sea,
the Depth of Water very soon diminisheth from 30 to 20 and 17 fathoms,
afterwards gradually from 9, 8 and even to 6 fathoms; but between this
Shoal Water and the Main, which is 6 or 7 leagues, you will have 10, 12
and even 16 fathoms, till you come within 2 or 3 leagues of the Shore.
The Bottom is of Various kinds, sometimes Coral Rocks, Coral Rocks and
broken Shells, Coarse sand and broken Shells, Small Stones and at other
times fine Sand varying at almost every Cast of the Lead. At 5 p.m. saw
the Land bearing North-West by West 1/2 West, distance 10 or 12 leagues,
which proved to be the Island of Cape Frio; it appeared in two Hillocks,
and from the Deck looked like two Islands. Took several Azimuth of the
Sun, which gave the Variation 6 degrees 40 minutes East. At 8 a.m. the
Isle of Cape Frio bore West by North 4 leagues. This Island is situated
in the Latitude of 23 degrees 2 minutes South, and according to our
Reckoning in the Longitude of 38 degrees 45 minutes West from Greenwich,
but from many Circumstances I have good reason to think that our
reckoning is wrong and that it lies in the Longitude 41 degrees 10
minutes West. It is not of a Large Circuit, but Tolerable high, with a
hollow in the Middle, which makes it look like 2 Islands when it first
makes its appearance out of the Water. It lays not far from the Main,
which with the Island forms a right Angle, one side trending North and
the other West. To the northward of the Island and between it and the
Main there appears to lay several smaller Islands near each other. The
Main land on the Sea Coast appears to be low, but inland are high
Mountains. Drawing Number 4 exhibits a View of this Island when it bore
West-North-West, distance 4 leagues. Wind North-East, East-North-East;
course South 60 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 59 miles; latitude 23
degrees 6 minutes South; Isle of Cape Frio North 60 degrees East, 4
leagues.

Sunday, 13th. First and Latter parts a Genteel Sea breeze and Clear
weather, the Middle Calm. P.M. standing along Shore for Rio De Janeiro
observed that the land on the Sea Coast is high and Mountainous, and the
shore forms some small Bays or Coves wherein are Sandy Beaches. At 8
Shortned Sail; the Sugar Loaf Hill at the West Entrance to Rio De Janeiro
West-North-West, distant 4 or 5 leagues, at the same time was abreast of
2 Small rocky Islands, that lie about 4 Miles from the Shore. At 9 a.m.
Sprung up a light breeze at South-East, at which time we made Sail for
the Harbour, and sent the Pinnace with a Lieutenant before us up to the
city of Rio De Janeiro, to acquaint the Vice Roy with the reason that
induced us to put in here, which was to procure Water and other
refreshments, and to desire the Assistance of a Pilot to bring us into
proper Anchoring ground; at Noon Standing in for the Harbour.

[At Rio Janeiro.]

ARRIVAL AT RIO DE JANEIRO, Monday, 14th. Moderate Sea and Low breezes and
fine pleasant weather. At 5 p.m. Anchored in 5 fathoms just above the
Isle of Cobras, which lies before the City of Rio De Janeiro. A little
before we Anchor'd the Pinnace return'd and informed me that the Vice Roy
had thought proper to detain the Officer until I went ashore. Soon after
we Anchored a Boat came on board bringing several of the Vice Roy's
Officers, who asked many Questions in respect to the Ship: Cargo, from
whence she came, Number of Guns, Men, etc., all of which was Answered to
their satisfaction. They told me it was the Custom of the Port to Detain
the first Officer that came from any Ship on her first Arrival until a
Boat from the Vice Roy had Visited her; that my Officer would be sent on
board as soon as they got on shore, which was accordingly done. About
this time a Boat filled with Soldiers kept rowing about the Ship, which
had orders, as I afterwards understood, not to Suffer any one of the
Officers or Gentlemen, except myself, to go out of the Ship. In the
Morning I waited upon the Vice Roy and obtained leave to purchase
Provisions, Refreshments, etc., for the Ship, but obliged me to employ a
person to buy them for me under a pretence that it was the Custom of the
Place, and he likewise insisted (notwithstanding all I could say to the
contrary), on putting a Soldier into the Boats that brought anything to
or from the Ship, alledging that it was the Orders of his Court, and they
were such as he could not Dispence with, and this indignity I was obliged
to submit to, otherwise I could not have got the supplys I wanted; being
willing, as much as in me lay, to avoid all manner of Disputes that might
cause the least delay, and at the same time to Convince him that we did
not come here to Trade, as I believe he imagined--for he Certainly did
not believe a word about our being bound to the Southward to observe the
Transit of Venus, but looked upon it only as an invented story to cover
some other design we must be upon, for he could form no other Idea of
that Phenomenon (after I had explained it to him), than the North Star
Passing through the South Pole; these were his own words. He would not
permit the Gentlemen to reside ashore during our Stay here, nor permit
Mr. Banks to go into the country to gather plants, etc.; but not the
least hint was given me at this time that no one of the Gentlemen was to
come out of the Ship but myself, or that I was to be put under a Guard
when I did come; but this I was soon Convinced of after I took my leave
of His Excellency and found that an Officer was to attend upon me
whereever I went, which at first the Vice Roy pretended was only meant as
a Complement, and to order me all the Assistance I wanted. This day the
People were Employed in unbending the Sails, in fitting and rigging the
Spare Topmasts in the room of the others, and getting on shore Empty
Water Casks.

Tuesday, 15th. Fine pleasant weather. Received on board fresh Beef and
Greens for the Ship's Company, with which they was served every Day
During our Stay here. Got all the Empty Casks on shore, and set the
Coopers to Work to repair them; Heeld and Boot Topt the Starboard side.

Wednesday, 16th. Set up the Forge to repair the Iron Work; the People
employed in Heeling and Boot Topping the Larboard side, Blacking the
Yards, etc.

Thursday, 17th. Set some People to repair the Sails and the Caulkers to
Caulk the Ship; the rest of the People employed in the Hold and about the
Rigging. For 3 days past I have remonstrated to the Vice Roy and his
Officers against his putting a Guard into my Boat, thinking I could not
Answer it to the Admiralty the tamely submitting to such a Custom, which,
when practiced in its full force, must bring Disgrace to the British
Flag. On the other hand, I was loath to enter into Disputes, seeing how
much I was like to be delay'd and imbarrassed in getting the supplys I
wanted, for it was with much difficulty that I obtained leave for one of
my People to attend the Market to buy necessaries for my Table and to
assist the Agent to buy the things for the Ship. Having gained this Point
and settled everything with the Agent in regard to what was wanting for
the Ship, I resolved, rather than be made a Prisoner in my own Boat, not
to go any more ashore unless I could do it without having a Soldier put
into the Boat, as had hitherto been done; and thinking that the Vice Roy
might lay under some Mistake, which on proper Application might be
clear'd up, I therefore drew up a Memorial stating the whole case and
sent to the Vice Roy this afternoon; and thus a Paper War commenced
between me and His Excellency, wherein I had no other Advantage than the
racking his invention to find reasons for treating us in the manner he
did, for he never would relax the least from any one point.

Friday, 18th. This day I received an Answer to my Memorial, wherein he
tells me, amongst other things, that if I think it hard submitting to the
Customs of this Port I may leave it when I please; but this did not suit
my purpose at present, but I resolved to make my stay as short as
possible. I must own that the Memorial of the Vice Roy's was well drawn
up and very much to the Purpose, which is more than I can say of any of
the subsequent ones.

Saturday, 19th. Close cloudy weather. Employed getting aboard Rum, Water,
and other necessaries. Caulking and refitting the Ship. Punished John
Thurman, Seaman, with 12 Lashes for refusing to assist the Sailmaker in
repairing the Sails.

Sunday, 20th. First part cloudy weather; the Middle very hard Storms of
Wind and Rain; the Latter moderate, with rain. This Afternoon sent
Lieutenant Hicks in the Pinnace with an Answer to the Vice Roy's
Memorial, with orders not to Suffer a Soldier to be put into the Boat;
upon which the Guard Boat attended him to the Landing Place and reported
it to the Vice Roy, who refused to receive the Memorial, and ordered Mr.
Hicks on board Again; but in the Meantime they had put a Guard into the
Boat, which Mr. Hicks insisted should be order'd out, that he might
return on board in the same manner as he came, without a Guard; and upon
his refusing to return other way, all the Crew were by Arm'd force taken
out of the Boat (though they gave no provocation nor made the least
resistance) and hurried to Prison, where they remained until the next
day. Mr. Hicks was then put into one of their Boats, and brought on board
under the Custody of a Guard. Immediately upon my hearing of this I wrote
to the Vice Roy demanding my Boat and Crew and his Excellency's reason
for detaining her, and inclosed the Memorial he had before refused to
receive. This I sent by a petty Officer, as I had never objected against
a Guard being put into any of my Boats wherein was no Commissioned
Officer. He was admitted ashore and delivered the Letter, and was told an
Answer would be sent the next day. This evening, between 8 and 9 o'Clock,
came on an Excessive hard storm of Wind and Rain, the Longboat coming on
board the same time with 4 Pipes of Rum in her. The rope they got hold of
broke, and she went a Drift. The Yawl was immediately sent after her; but
the Longboat filling with Water, they brought her to a Grapnel and left
her, and the Yawl with the People got on board about 3 in the morning.
Early this Morning I sent to the Vice Roy to acquaint him with the loss
of our Boat, to desire leave and the Assistance of a Shore Boat to look
after her, and at the same time to demand the Pinnace and her Crew. After
some time the whole was granted, and we was so fortunate as to find the
Longboat the same Day, and likewise the 4 Pipes of Rum; but every other
thing that was in her was lost.

Monday, 21st. This Morning I received his Excellency's Answer to my last
Memorial and Letter. In his Letter he owns there was some indecency in
Detaining the Boat, but lays the Blame to my Officer, who only Executed
the orders I gave him with Spirit. In one part of his Memorial he says
that from the Built of the Ship and other Circumstances he Doubts that
she is the King's. This I thought proper to Answer in Writing by telling
his Excellency that I was ready to produce my Commission. Rain the most
part of this Day.

Tuesday, 22nd. Moderate breezes, with frequent Showers of Rain. Employed
getting on board Water, Provisions, etc. Caulking the Ship and repairing
the Sails.

Wednesday, 23rd. Fine pleasant weather. Employed as before and setting up
the Rigging. This day I received from the Vice-Roy an Answer to my last
Memorial, wherein he still keeps up his Doubts that she is not a King's
Ship, and accuseth my people of Smuggling, a thing I am very Certain they
were not guilty of, and for which his Excellency could produce no proof,
notwithstanding many Artful means were made use of to tempt such of our
People as were admitted ashore to Trade by the Very Officers that were
under His Excellency's own Roof. I thought it incumbent on me to Answer
this Memorial, in which I desir'd His Excellency to take into Custody any
one of my People that should be found trading even if it amounted to no
more than one of the Sailors selling his Cloaths from off his Back for a
Bottle of Rum--for what His Excellency called smuggling I was very
certain amounted to no more, and even this was only Suspicions of my own.

Thursday, 24th. This day a Spanish Packet (a Small Brig) from Buenos
Ayres put in here in her way to Spain. This Vessel belonged to his
Catholic Majesty, and notwithstanding the Vice-Roy had all along
pretended that the orders he had respecting Foreign Vessels were General,
yet this Vessel meet with very Different Treatment from us. No Guard was
put over her, and her Officers and Crew went wherever they pleased.* (*
The build and general appearance of the Endeavour not being that of a
man-of-war, the Portuguese authorities entertained suspicions regarding
her true character, which is not altogether surprising, considering the
times; but we can well understand Cook's indignation.)

Friday, 25th, Saturday, 26th. Employed getting on board Water as fast as
the Coopers could set up and repair the Casks, setting up the rigging and
Caulking the Ship's sides.

Sunday, 27th. Bent the Sails and Cleaned the Ship Fore and Aft.

Monday, 28th. Fine pleasant weather. The Caulkers having finished the
sides, paid them with Tar. This day I unexpectedly received an Answer
from my last Memorial, wherein were only a few weak Arguments to support
His Excellency's Suspicions that the Ship did not belong to the King, and
that my People Smugled. This Memorial I answered.

Tuesday, 29th. Employed Lashing the Casks that were on the upper Deck and
between Decks and making ready for Sea.

Wednesday, 30th. Punished Robert Anderson, Seaman, and William Judge,
Marine, with 12 Lashes Each, the former for leaving his Duty ashore and
attempting to desert from the Ship, and the latter for using abusive
language to the Officer of the Watch, and John Reading, Boatswain's Mate,
with 12 lashes for not doing his Duty in punishing the above two Men.
Sent a Shore to the Vice-Roy for a Pilot to Carry us to Sea, who sent one
on board together with a Large Boat, which I did not want, but it is the
Custom in this Port for the Pilots to have such a Boat to attend upon the
Ship they Pilot out, and for which you must pay 10 shillings per day,
besides the Pilot's fees, which is Seven pounds four Shillings Sterling.

[December 1768.]

Thursday, 1st December. Wind at South-East, which hinder'd us from
Sailing as we intended. Received on board a large Quantity of fresh Beef,
Greens and Yams for the Ship's Company.

Friday, 2nd. This morning sent a Packet for the Secretary of the
Admiralty on board the Spanish Pacquet, containing copies of all the
Memorials and Letters that have passed between the Vice-Roy and me, and
likewise another Packet containing Duplicates thereof I left with the
Vice-Roy to be by him forwarded to Lisbon. At 9 Weighed and came to Sail
and turned down the Bay. Peter Flower, Seaman, fell overboard, and before
any Assistance could be given him was drowned; in his room we got a
Portugue.

Saturday, 3rd. First part, moderate breezes at South-East; remainder,
fresh Gales at South with Rain. At 1 p.m. Anchored in 18 fathoms Water in
the Great Road (see Plan).

Sunday, 4th. Fore and Middle parts fresh Gales at South-South-East with
heavy rain; Latter, Variable Light Airs and fair weather. Hoisted in the
Long-boat and secured her.

Monday, 5th. First part, little wind and Cloudy; Middle, Thunder,
Lightning and Rain; latter, little wind at South-West and fair. At 4 a.m.
Weighed and tow'd down the Bay (being Calm) with an intent to go to Sea,
but having 2 Shott fired at us from Santa Cruze Fort was obliged to come
to an Anchor and to send a Boat to the Fort to know the Reason of their
firing, who it seems had no orders to let us pass, without which no Ship
can go to Sea. This surprized me not a little, as I had but this very
morning received a very Polite Letter from the Vice-Roy (in answer to one
I had wrote some days ago), wherein he wishes me a good voyage. I
immediately dispatched a petty Officer to the Vice-Roy to know the reason
why we was not permitted to pass the Fort; the Boat very soon return'd
with an order to the Captain of the Fort to let us pass, which Order had
been wrote some Days Ago, but either by Design or neglect had not been
sent. At 11 weighed in order to put to Sea, but before we could heave up
the Anchor, it got hold of a Rock, where it held fast in spite of all our
endeavours to Clear it until the Sea Breeze set in.

Tuesday, 6th. The Sea breeze continued all this day. At 2 p.m. the Ship
tended to the Wind, which cleared the Anchor. Hove it up and run higher
up the Bay and Anchored in 15 fathoms, a little below the Isle or Church
of Bon Voyage; found the cable very much rubbed several fathoms from the
Anchor.

Wednesday, 7th. First and latter part a Genteel breeze at South-East and
East; the Middle, Calm. At 5 a.m. weighed and tow'd out of the Bay; at 8
Discharged the Pilot and his Boat. A breeze of Wind Springing up Easterly
made Sail out to Sea, and sent a boat to one of the Islands laying before
the Bay to cut Brooms, a thing we was not permitted to do while we lay in
the Harbour; the Guard Boat which had constantly attended all the time we
lay in the Bay and Harbour did not leave us until the Pilot was
discharged. At noon the Sugar Loaf at the west Entrance of the Bay bore
North by West 1/2 West, distance, 8 or 9 miles.

[Description of Rio Janeiro.]

A DESCRIPTION OF THE BAY OR RIVER OF RIO DE JANEIRO.

The few days' delay we met with in getting out of Rio de Janeiro gave me
an opportunity of Drawing a Plan or Sketch of great part of the Bay, but
the Strict watch that was kept over us during our whole stay hinder'd me
from taking so accurate a Survey as I wisht to have done, and all the
Observations I could make was taken from on board the Ship. This Plan
hath no pretensions to accuracy, yet it will give a very good idea of the
place, differing not much from the truth in what is Essential.

The Bay of Rio de Janeiro, by some called a River--which its Name
Signifies--but this I think is improper, it being nothing more than a
Deep inlet of the Sea, into which no considerable fresh water River
Emptys itself that I could hear of. Be this as it will, it is Capacious
and Capable of Containing a vast Number of Shipping where they may ride
in perfect Security. The Entrance is Situated West by North 18 Leagues
from Cape Frio, and may be known by a remarkable Hill in the Form of a
Sugar Loaf, at the West Entrance of the Bay; but as all the Coast is
exceeding high, terminating at the top in Peaked Hills, it is much better
known by the Islands laying before it, one of which (called Rodonda) is
high and round in form of a Hay Stack, and lies South by West 2 1/2
leagues from the Sugar Loaf or Entrance of the Bay. A little without the
East Entrance of the Bay, and near the shore, lay 2 Islands near each
other: 3 leagues from the Eastward and 4 miles from the Shore are 2 low
Rocky Islands, which are the first you meet with in coming from the
Eastward or from Cape Frio.

To sail into Rio de Janeiro there is not the least Danger until you are
the length of the Fort of Santa Cruze, which stands on the point that
forms the East Entrance of the Bay or River; on the West Entrance is Fort
Lorio, built upon a Rock which lies close to the Main Land, the distance
from one Fort to the other is 3/4 of a mile East and West, but the
Channel for Shipping is not quite so broad by reason of Sunken Rocks
laying off each of the Forts; these rocks may not be properly placed in
the plan, being only laid down from the information of the Pilot. The
Narrowness of the Channell here causeth the Tides both Flood and Ebb to
run pretty strong, insomuch that you cannot Stem it without a fresh
breeze of Wind, nor is it safe Anchoring because the bottom is foul and
Rocky. By keeping in the Middle of the Channell you will not only avoid
being forced to come to an Anchor, but all other Dangers. Being got
within the entrance your Course up the Bay is North by West 1/2 West and
North-North-West something more than one League; this brings you the
length of the great Road, and North-West and West-North-West one league
more carrys you the length of the Ilha dos Cobras, which lies before the
City. Keep the North side of this Island close on board and Anchor above
it in 5 fathoms of water, where you see most Convenient before the
Monastery of Benedictines, which stands upon a hill at the North-West End
of the City. Small Ships and Vessels generally lay between the Town and
the Ilha dos Cobras, but in order to get there they must come round the
North side of the Island.

I shall now give the best description I can of the Different Forts that
are Erected for the Defence of the Bay. The first you meet with coming in
from Sea is a Battery of 22 Guns, seated in the Bottom of a sandy Bay,
which is on the South side of the Sugar Loaf, and can be designed for no
other use than to hinder an Enemy from landing in that valley, from
whence I suppose they may March up to the Town or round by the West side
of the Sugar Loaf to attack the Forts that are on that side of the
Entrance into the Bay, the first of which is Seated under the foot of the
Sugar Loaf on a low Isthmus which joyns the Peninsula or point of the Bay
with the Land of the Sugar Loaf. It appears to be a square of Stone Work
without a Ditch, with Bastions and furnished with Cannon. A little within
this fort are 2 battrys of 5 or 6 Guns each. They are designed to play
upon Shipping, but neither these battrys or the Fort are out of reach of
a Ship's Cannon. Hard by these batterys stands Fort Logie. It is an
irregular hexagon, built of Stone upon a Small Rock standing at the west
Entrance of the Bay, and is surrounded on all Sides by the Sea. It is
mounted with 14 or 15 guns, which are placed so as to play upon Shipping
going in and out of the Harbour. There is only one way to go into it,
which is by Steps Leading up to a Sally Port on the North-West side.
Opposite this is the Fort of Santa Cruze, built upon a low rocky point
that forms the East Entrance of the Bay. It hath the Appearance of a
Regular Fortification of Stone Work built upon the Slope of the Rock, on
which account there are in some places 2 Tier of Guns. It hath no Ditch
but on the Land side, where it is cut out of the Rock; in every other
part the Sea washes up to its Walls. It seems everywhere to be well
Mounted with Cannon Except on the land side, where none are wanting,
because they could be of no use, the land being so very high above it.
Yet, after all, neither this Fort nor those on the opposite shore do not
appear to be of any great Strength, even against Shipping, for which they
are wholly design'd, being the key of the Bay. They lay low, and Ships
may come so near as to have them entirely within the reach of their Guns;
but it would require 5 or 6 Sail of the line to insure Success. Between 2
and 3 Miles within the Entrance of the Bay, on the West Side, is the Isle
Borghleone, upon the east point of which is Erected a Battry of Stone,
and Mounted with 17 pieces of Cannon. Besides this, on the highest part
of the Island, is a Battry of 6 Guns mounted on an Open Platform. These
battrys are designed to play upon Shipping in the Bay, and seems not ill
designed for that purpose; yet they would be Obliged to Submit to the
Attack of Shipping or that of a Land force, there being nothing to hinder
the latter from Landing on the Island behind the Battrys. Opposite to
this Island, on the low point on the east side of the Bay, is the Battry
of St. Dominica of 7 Guns. A little without this Battry, on the East side
of the Bay, is a small but high Island, close to the Shore, on the Top of
which is the Church of Bonn Voyage, about half-way down the Cliff. Below
the Church is a Battry of 3 Guns. Neither the one nor the other of these
battry's are of much Consequence. They serve, indeed, to force Shipping
coming into the Bay between 2 Fires, and hinder them from Anchoring on
that side until they are silenced. The next fortification is that on the
Ilha dos Cobras, the east point and North side of which consists of a
Rampart Bastion and a Parrapet faced with Stones and mounted with Cannon,
but no Ditch, which is not much wanting, as the works are built on the
Edge of the rising Ground. The other side next the Town hath no other
inclosure but a plain wall without any Guns. It is said that the works on
this Island are in bad repair, on account of being so Extensive that they
would take more men to Defend them than they could spare, and, placing no
Dependancy on their Strength, let them go to decay. The ground on which
the Monastry of Benedictines Stands Commands the Works on the Island.
Over the South end of the City stands the Castle of St. Sebastian; it is
Seated upon a Hill, and Commands the whole Town; and this is all I know
of it, only that it is not counted a place of any great Strength. For the
Defence of these Forts and the Town the King of Portugal Maintains 7
Regiments of Regular Troops. Those I saw were well cloathed and in good
Condition; but this, as I was told, was not the Case with the whole.
Besides these Troops are 3 Regiments of Militia, 2 of Horse and one of
foot. These consist of the principal inhabitants of the place, who serve
without pay, Muster and Exercise in turns nine Months in the year, on
which account they rank with the Regular Troops.

The City of Rio de Janeiro is in the Latitude of 22 degrees 50 minutes
South and Longitude 42 degrees 15 minutes West from Greenwich.* (* Modern
determination, 22 degrees 54 minutes South, 43 degrees 10 minutes West.)
According to Observations made at Sea it is Seated on a plain close to
the Shore on the West side of the Bay, at the foot of Several high
Mountains. It is neither ill designed nor ill built. The Houses are
mostly stone, generally one and two Storys high, with Balconys to most of
them. The Streets are of a Convenient breadth, and Cross each other at
right Angles, and the whole City may be about 3 miles in Compass. It is
Govern'd by a Governor appointed by the King. The present Governor is Don
Anto Mendoyaz Fastada, who is no Friend to the English. It likewise is
the Residence of the Vice-Roy and Captain General of the States of
Brazil, who is as absolute as any Monarch on Earth, and the people to all
appearance as much Slaves. This City and Adjacent parts about the Bay are
said to contain 100,000 Souls; but not above a twentieth part are Whites.
The rest are blacks, many of whom are free, and seem to live in tolerable
Circumstances.

The city of Rio de Janeiro is supplied with Water from 2 Different parts
of the Adjacent Mountains. That which comes from the Southward is
Convey'd a Cross a Deep Valley by an Acquiduct, which Consists of a great
Number of Arches placed in 2 Rows, one upon the other; from thence in
pipes to a fountain which stands in the Middle of the Square before the
Vice-Roy's Palace. At another part of the City is a Reservoir, to which
the water is conveyed much in the same manner. From these 2 places, but
mostly from the former, the inhabitants fetch all they want, where there
is always a Centinel to keep order: and it is likewise here that the
Ships Water. They land their Casks upon a Smooth sandy beach about 100
yards from the Fountain, and upon application to the Vice-Roy you have a
Centinel to look after them and to clear the way for to come to the
fountain to fill water. Upon the whole, Rio de Janeiro is not a bad place
for Ships to put in at that want refreshments, not only because the
Harbour is safe and Commodious, but that Provision and all manner of
Refreshments may be had in tolerable plenty. Bread and Flour are,
however, Scarce and Dear, being brought hither from Europe, and are never
the better for that Passage. In lieu of these are to be had Yams and
Casada. All sorts of Grain--though it may be the produce of this
Country--is Dear. Fresh Beef (tho' bad) is to be had in plenty at about 2
1/4 pence per pound, and Jurked Beef about the same price. This is cured
with Salt, and dryd in the shade, the bones being taken out, and the Meat
cut into large but very thin slices. It eats very well, and if kept in a
dry place will remain good a long time at Sea. Rum, Sugar, and Molasses
are all good and Cheap. Tobacco is Cheap, but not good. Mutton they have
very little. Hogs and all sorts of Poultry are to be got, tho' in no
great plenty, and of Course rather dear. Garden Stuff and Fruit in
plenty, but none that will keep long at Sea except Pumpkins.

They have a Yard for building Shipping and a small Hulk for heaving down
by, there being no other method to come at a Ship's bottom, as the Tides
doth not rise above 6 or 7 feet. At the New and full Moon it is high
Water at that time about 8 o'clock, when the Land and Sea breezes are
regular, but when they are not the Course of Tides are alter'd. The Sea
breeze begins to blow about 10 or 12 o'clock, and continues until sunset,
when it dies away and is succeeded by the land breeze, which continues
most part of the night. From a little after sunrise until the Sea breeze
sets in it is generally Calm, and is then the Hotest and most
Disagreeable part of the whole day.


CHAPTER 2. RIO JANEIRO TO TAHITI.

REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES FROM RIO DE JANEIRO TOWARDS TERRA DEL FUEGO.

[December 1768. Rio to Strait Le Maire.]

THURSDAY, December 8th. Fore and Middle parts Moderate breezes and
Cloudy; remainder, little wind and Clear weather. At 3 p.m. the Boat
returned from the Island; hoisted her in and made Sail at 6. The Sugar
Loaf at the west Entrance of Rio de Janeiro bore North 1/2 East, distance
7 leagues; it lies from the City of Rio de Janeiro, from which I take my
Departure, South-West 4 miles. Wind East-North-East, North-East, North by
East; course South 7 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 85 miles; latitude
24 degrees 17 minutes South, longitude 42 degrees 29 minutes West.

Friday, 9th. Genteel light breezes and Clear weather. At 3 a.m. the Fore
top-gallant Mast broke short by the Cap; the Carpenter employed making
another. Wind North, North-East, South-South-West; course South 22
degrees East; distance 32 miles; latitude 24 degrees 46 minutes South,
longitude 42 degrees 16 minutes West.

Saturday, 10th. Moderate breezes with some flying showers of Rain the
first part. Wind southerly; course, South-East 1/2 East; distance 75
miles; latitude 25 degrees 34 minutes South, longitude 41 degrees 12
minutes West.

Sunday, 11th. Little wind and Clear weather the Most part of this day.
Serv'd Slops* (* Slops are materials for making clothes.) to the People.
Wind southerly; course South 20 degrees East; distance 9 miles; latitude
25 degrees 43 minutes South, longitude 41 degrees 8 minutes West.

Monday, 12th. First part, light Airs; remainder, Genteel breezes and
Clear weather. Found the variation of the Compass by the Evening
Amplitude and an Azimuth in the Morning to be 8 degrees 30 minutes East,
and the Observed Latitude at Noon to be short of that given by the Log 10
Miles. Exercised the People at Great Guns and Small Arms. Wind variable;
course South-South-West; distance 34 miles; latitude 26 degrees 14
minutes South, longitude 41 degrees 23 minutes West.

Tuesday, 13th. First part Gentle breezes and Clear, remainder a Steady
Gale. The weather a little hazey. Variation 8 degrees 23 minutes East.
Wind North-East and North-North-East; course South 19 degrees 40 minutes
West; distance 113 miles; latitude 28 degrees 0 minutes South, longitude
42 degrees 6 minutes West.

Wednesday, 14th. First and latter parts, fresh breezes and Cloudy;
middle, little wind, with Thunder, Lightning and Rain. The Caulkers
employed Caulking the Ship's Decks. Wind, North-West, West, South by
West; course South 16 degrees East; distance 87 miles; latitude 29
degrees 24 minutes South, longitude 41 degrees 55 minutes West.

Thursday, 15th. The first part a fresh Gale and dark Cloudy weather;
Remainder, little wind and clear; a large swell from South-West. Wind
South-West by South, South, East-South-East; course South 14 degrees 15
minutes East; distance 45 miles; latitude 30 degrees 8 minutes South,
longitude 41 degrees 39 minutes West.

Friday, 16th. Genteel breezes and Clear weather. Variation 9 degrees 36
minutes East. Wind East-North-East, North-West, North-East; course South
32 degrees West: distance 86 miles; latitude 31 degrees 21 minutes South,
longitude 42 degrees 32 minutes West.

Saturday, 17th. Hazey with frequent Showers of Rain all the Fore and
Middle part; latter, Clear weather with a Gentle breeze of wind. Wind,
variable from North-West, South-West, to South-South-East; course South
14 degrees West; distance 56 miles; latitude 32 degrees 15 minutes South,
longitude 42 degrees 48 minutes West.

Sunday, 18th. First part, light winds; remainder, fresh breezes and Clear
weather. Variation 11 degrees 3 minutes East. Wind, South-East to
North-East; course South 51 West; distance 43 miles; latitude 32 degrees
42 minutes South, longitude 43 degrees 27 minutes West.

Monday, 19th. A steady fresh breeze and fair weather. At half-past 5 p.m.
Longitude in per Observation of the sun and moon 43 degrees 38 minutes
West from Greenwich. Variation 11 degrees 3 minutes East. The Observed
Latitude exceeds that given by the Log 7 Miles. Wind northerly; course
South-West; distance 116 miles; latitude 34 degrees 4 minutes South,
longitude 45 degrees 6 minutes West.

Tuesday, 20th. A fresh breeze of Wind and hazey. Variation 13 degrees 44
minutes East. Observed Latitude exceeds that given by the Log 11 miles.
Wind north; course South-West 1/4 South; distance 160 miles; latitude 36
degrees 2 minutes South, longitude 47 degrees 14 minutes West.

Wednesday, 21st. Wind and weather Variable. Saw several black sheer
Waters. Sounded twice this 24 Hours but found no ground with 90 fathoms.
The Observed Latitude again ahead of the Log 16 miles. Wind variable;
course South 42 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 90 miles; latitude 37
degrees 8 minutes South, longitude 48 degrees 30 minutes West.

Thursday, 22nd. Little wind the most part of this day. Variation 15
degrees 30 minutes East. Bent a New Suit of Sails. Wind southerly; course
West; distance 40 miles; latitude 37 degrees 8 minutes South, longitude
49 degrees 1 minute West.

Friday, 23rd. Light Airs and Clear weather. Saw some Turtle upon the
Water but could not catch any. Sounded no ground with 200 fathoms.
Variation 15 degrees 40 minutes East. Wind southerly; course North 48
degrees West; distance 33 miles; latitude 36 degrees 46 minutes South,
longitude 49 degrees 32 minutes West.

Saturday, 24th. First part Calm; remainder a Genteel breeze and fine
Clear weather. This night had 2 Sets of Observations of the Moon and the
Star Aldebaran, which gave the Longitude
49 degrees 54 minutes 15 seconds West; the first sett gave 49 degrees 55
minutes 15 seconds, and the Second 49 degrees 53 minutes 15 seconds. Wind
calm, north-easterly; course South 50 degrees West; distance 39 miles;
latitude 37 degrees 11 minutes South, longitude 50 degrees 32 minutes
West.

Sunday, 25th. Fresh breezes and fine Clear weather. Wind North-East by
North to North; course South 50 degrees West; distance 116 miles;
latitude 38 degrees 37 minutes South, longitude 52 degrees 5 minutes
West.

Monday, 26th. A Fresh breeze of Wind and Cloudy weather; passed by some
Rock Weed. At noon the Observed latitude 26 Miles to the Southward of the
Log, which I believe is chiefly owing to her being Generally steer'd to
the Southward of her Course. Yesterday being Christmas Day the people
were none of the Soberest. Wind North; course South-West; distance 158
miles; latitude 40 degrees 19 minutes South, longitude 54 degrees 30
minutes West.

Tuesday, 27th. Fresh breezes and Hazey with Squalls which Obliged us
during the Night to take in the small Sails and 2 reefs in the Topsails
which were let out in the Morning. Wind northerly; course South 50
degrees West; distance 123 miles; latitude 41 degrees 38 minutes South,
longitude 56 degrees 15 minutes West.

Wednesday, 28th. First part Strong Gales and Cloudy, which Obliged us to
get down Top-Gallant Yards. At 8 p.m. it blew a Storm of Wind with Rain
which brought us under our Mainsail with her Head to the Westward.
Sounded 50 fathoms, fine brown Sand; at midnight had 40 fathoms, the same
bottom. At 4 a.m. had 46 fathoms Coral Rock. The weather being more
Moderate, made Sail under the Courses and Set the Topsails with 2 Reefs
in. Wind South-East to South; latitude 40 degrees 49 minutes South,
longitude 58 degrees 29 minutes West.

Thursday, 29th. First part moderate breezes and Cloudy; remainder fresh
breezes and Clear. P.M. loosed all the Reefs out, and got Topgallant
Yards a Cross. Variation per Azimuth 16 degrees 12 minutes, per Amplitude
16 degrees 32 minutes; Mean of the Two 16 degrees 22 minutes East.
Between 9 and 10 a.m. took 7 sets of Observations between the sun and
moon to find the Longitude of the Ship. Each set Consists of three
Observations; the Mean of the whole gave 59 degrees 18 minutes 34 seconds
West of Greenwich. The result of each set was as follows: viz., 1st set,
59 degrees 8 minutes; Second, 59 degrees 21 minutes; Third, 59 degrees 34
minutes; Fourth, 59 degrees 17 minutes; Fifth, 59 degrees 11 minutes 45
seconds; Sixth, 59 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds; and the Seventh, 59
degrees 20 minutes 45 seconds. The greatest differance between any
two--viz., the first and third--is but 26 minutes, and the mean of these
two differ from the mean of the whole only 2 minutes 26 seconds. This
shews to what degree of accuracy these observations can be made even by
Different Persons, for four of these were made and computed by Mr. Green
and the rest by myself. The Longitude given by the Ship, reckoning from
the last Observation 5 Days ago, differs only 8 Miles from the
Observation, which shews that we have not been in any Currents. Soundings
from 40 to 47. Wind North-Easterly; course South 46 degrees 30 minutes
West; distance 81 miles; latitude 41 degrees 45 minutes South, longitude
59 degrees 37 minutes West.

Friday, 30th. Little wind, and sometimes Calm; the first part Clear
weather, remainder Foggy and Hazey. Soundings from 44 to 49 fathoms; Grey
sandy Bottom. Caught both this Morning and last Night a great Number of
insects. Some were upon the Wing, but the greater part were upon the
water, and many of these alive and of such sort as cannot fly far; and
yet at this Time we could not be less than 30 Leagues from Land. Wind
variable; course South 30 degrees West; distance 54 miles; latitude 42
degrees 32 minutes South, longitude 60 degrees 15 minutes West.

Saturday, 31st. Cloudy weather, with some Lightning and a few showers of
rain. Variation 18 degrees 36 minutes East. Soundings from 46 to 50
fathoms; fine dark sand. Wind South-Easterly; course South 18 degrees
West; distance 43 miles; latitude 43 degrees 14 minutes South, longitude
60 degrees 26 minutes West.

[January 1769.]

Sunday, January 1st, 1769. First and Latter part, fresh breezes and Clear
weather; in the Middle, light Airs and Calm. At Noon, longitude in per 4
Sets of Observations between the sun and moon 61 degrees 8 minutes 28
seconds west. The Difference between the least and Greatest of these sets
was 8 minutes, and the mean of 2 differs from the Mean of the whole but
32 seconds. The Longitude by account carried on from the last
Observations exactly agree with these Observations. Saw a great number of
small Whales about the Ship. Wind South to West-South-West; course South
36 degrees West; distance 39 miles; latitude 43 degrees 35 minutes South;
longitude 61 degrees 8 minutes 28 seconds West.

Monday, January 2nd. The first part of this day a Genteel gale and Clear
weather; middle, Squally, with Lightning and rain, and some showers of
Large Hail Stones; towards Noon a Steady fresh breeze and Clear weather.
At noon longitude in by 3 sets of Observations between the sun and moon
61 degrees 7 minutes 45 seconds, which is 43 seconds to the Eastward of
yesterday's Observations. The Ship by the Log has made 4 minutes East.
Wind Westerly; course South 2 degrees East; distance 92 miles; latitude
45 degrees 17 minutes South, longitude 61 degrees 7 minutes 45 seconds
West.

Tuesday, 3rd. Fresh gales and clear weather; under Single Reef Topsails.
P.M. Saw some Whales and Porpoises and small red Crawfish, some of which
we Caught. At Noon saw several Birds of a light Grey Colour, like
Pidgeons, but smaller; these are of the Mother Carey's kind. Longitude
per Observation 61 degrees 29 minutes 45 seconds, which is 22 minutes to
the westward of Yesterday, but the ship hath made 41 minutes,
Consequently there is an Error of 19 minutes, which is not to be supposed
to be in the Log in one Day's run; but, be it which way it will, it is
not great. Wind West, Southerly; course South 11 degrees; distance 122
miles; latitude 47 degrees 17 minutes South, longitude 61 degrees 29
minutes 45 seconds West.

Wednesday, 4th. First part, genteel breeze and Clear; latter, fresh
gales, with heavy squalls of wind and rain, which brought us under our
courses and main topsails close reefed. Soon after noon saw the
appearance of Land to the Eastward, and being in the Latitude of Peypes
Island, as it is lay'd down in some Charts, imagined it might be it.* (*
Pepys' Island, placed on charts, from a report by Captain Cowley in 1683,
about 230 miles north of Falkland Islands, and long imagined to exist. It
was eventually recognised, after the discovery of Cowley's manuscript
Journal, that Cowley had sighted the Falklands.) Bore down to be Certain,
and at 1/2 past 2 p.m. discovered our Mistake, and hauld the Wind again.
At 6 sounded, and had 72 fathoms black sand and mud. Variation 19 degrees
45 minutes East. Wind West-North-West to South-West by South; course
South 30 degrees East; distance 76 miles; latitude 48 degrees 28 minutes
South, longitude 60 degrees 51 minutes West.

[Nearing Terra del Fuego.]

Thursday, 5th. Fore part, fresh Gales and Clear; Middle, light Airs;
remainder, fresh Gales and a little hazey. P.M. found the Variation to be
20 degrees 4 minutes East; Soundings 75 and 73 fathoms. A great Number of
Water Fowl about the Ship. Wind South-West, North-East, North-North-East;
course South 28 degrees West; distance 92 miles; latitude 49 degrees 49
minutes South, longitude 61 degrees 67 minutes West.

Friday, 6th. Fresh gales, the Air very Sharp and Cold; frequent showers
of rain and Squalls. Soundings 75 fathoms. Saw some Penguins. Gave to
each of the People a Fearnought Jacket and a pair of Trowsers, after
which I never heard one Man Complain of Cold, not but that the weather
was cold enough. Wind West, Southerly; course South 8 degrees 45 minutes
West; distance 92 miles; latitude 51 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude
62 degrees 19 minutes West.

Saturday, 7th. First part, Strong Gales, with excessive hard Squals, with
rain. At 9 p.m. wore and brought too, her head to the Westward under the
Mainsail, and Reef'd the Foresail for the first time. The Storm continued
with a little intermission until a little towards Noon, when it abated,
so we could set the Topsails close Reefed. Saw many Penguins and some
Seals. Wind southerly: course South 62 degrees East; distance 14 miles;
latitude 51 degrees 26 minutes South, longitude 61 degrees 59 minutes
West.

Sunday, 8th. Wind and weather both Variable, but for the most part little
wind. P.M. loosed the Reef out of the Foresail and 2 Reefs out of Each
Topsail. A.M. got Top gallant Yards aCross and loosed all the Reefs out.
Soundings from 80 to 75 fathoms. Wind South, South-West, West,
North-West; course North 72 degrees West; distance 33 miles; latitude 51
degrees 16 minutes South; longitude 62 degrees 50 minutes West.

Monday, 9th. First and Latter parts, a moderate breeze and Clear weather;
Middle, squally with rain. P.M. found the Variation by several azimuths
to be 22 degrees 24 minutes East. Saw a great Number of Penguins and
Seals.

Tuesday, 10th. Moderate breezes and fine clear weather. At 2 p.m. Sounded
86 fathoms; black sand and Small stones. Variation 21 degrees 57 minutes
East. At 1/2 past 10 Tackt having Stood south 12 Leagues. After standing
to the Westward 14 Miles, sounded, and had 80 fathoms black grey sand; 3
Leagues farther 76, coarse black sand; Tack'd, and at noon had 70 fathoms
black gravel and Small Stones of different Colours. Saw several flights
of black Sheerwaters. Wind West-South-West, South-West; course South 18
degrees West; distance 38 miles; latitude 52 degrees 54 minutes South,
longitude 63 degrees 10 minutes West.

Wednesday, 11th. A Steady Genteel breeze and clear weather. P.M. after
standing 13 Leagues South-South-West Sounded 64 fathoms Gravel and small
Stones; Standing South-West by South 11 leagues farther, had 46 fathoms,
the same sort of bottom. At 8 a.m. saw the land of Terra del Fuego,
extending from the west to the South-East by South, distance off shore
between 3 and 4 Leagues; sounded and had 35 fathoms small, soft, Slate
Stones. Variation 23 degrees 30 minutes East. In ranging along shore to
the South-East at the distance of 2 or 3 leagues, had 27 and 26 fathoms
muddy bottom. Saw some of the natives, who made a Smook in several
places, which must have been done as a Signal to us as they did not
continue it after we passed. By our Longitude we ought not to have been
so far to the Westward as Statenland, as it is laid down in the Charts;
but it appeared from Subsequent Observations that the Ship had got near a
Degree of Longitude to the Westward of the Log, which is 35 Miles in
these Latitudes. Probably this in part may be owing to a Small Current
setting to the Westward, occasioned by the Westerly Current which comes
round Cape Horn and through Strait La Maire, and the inDraught of the
Streights of Magellan. Wind westerly; course South 30 degrees West;
distance, 100 miles; latitude 54 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude 64
degrees 35 minutes West per log.

Thursday, 12th. First part, moderate breezes and Cloudy; remainder
sometimes a fresh breeze, sometimes Calm, Hazey weather with rain. At 5
the wind coming to the Northward obliged us to Tack and Stood
North-Westward, being then about 5 Miles from the Shore, and had 23
fathoms, sandy Bottom. At Midnight Tackt and Stood to the Eastward. At
Noon the Land over the Entrance of Straits La Maire, East-North-East,
distance, 7 leagues; Soundings from 28 to 38 fathoms. Wind North,
North-North-East, variable, West-South-West; latitude 54 degrees 34
minutes South per observation.

Friday, 13th. The greatest part of this day little wind and Cloudy. At 8
p.m., Cape St. Diego, at the west entrance of Straits La Maire, East,
distance about 5 leagues. Keept under an easey Sail until daylight, at
which time we were abreast of Cape St. Diego, and then put into the
Straits, but the Tide soon turned against us and obliged us to haul under
the Cape again and wait until 9 a.m. when it shifted in our favour. Put
into the Straits again with a Moderate breeze at South-West, which soon
grew Boisterous with very heavy Squalls, with rain and hail, and obliged
us to Close reef our Topsails. Wind North-East by East, West-South-West,
South-West; latitude 54 degrees 39 minutes South; at noon, Cape St. Diego
North 2 leagues.

[In Strait of Le Maire.]

Saturday, 14th. First part Strong Gales, and very heavy squalls with Hail
and Rain; remainder more moderate but unsettled, sometimes a fresh breeze
and Squally, and sometimes little wind. Kept plying in the Straits until
1/2 past 4 p.m., at which time the Tide had made strong against us, and
the wind not abating, bore away, intending to have hauled under Cape St.
Diego, but was prevented by the force of the Tide, which carried us past
that Cape with surprising rapidity, at the same time caused a very great
sea. At 6, the weather being Clear, took 9, or 3 sets of, Observations of
the sun and moon in order to find the Longitude of the place, and as they
perhaps are the first Observations of this kind that were ever made so
near to the Extremity of South America, I have inserted them below just
as they were taken, that everybody may judge for themselves.

COLUMN 1: NAME OF SET.
COLUMN 2: TIME BY THE WATCH IN HOURS, MINUTES AND SECONDS.
COLUMN 3: APPARENT TIME COMPUTED FROM IN HOURS, MINUTES AND SECONDS.
COLUMN 4: OBSERVED DISTANCE. SUN AND MOON'S NEAREST LIMB IN DEGREES,
MINUTES AND SECONDS.
COLUMN 5: OBSERVED ALTITUDE. SUN'S LOWER LIMB IN DEGREES, MINUTES AND
SECONDS.
COLUMN 6: OBSERVED ALTITUDE. MOON'S UPPER LIMB IN DEGREES, MINUTES AND
SECONDS.
COLUMN 7: CORRECT ALTITUDE. SUN'S CENTER IN DEGREES, MINUTES AND SECONDS.
COLUMN 8: CORRECT ALTITUDE. MOON'S CENTER IN DEGREES, MINUTES AND
SECONDS.
COLUMN 9: THE LONGITUDE RESULTING FROM BOTH SETS OF OBSERVATIONS IN
DEGREES, MINUTES AND SECONDS.

-- : 8 27 15 : -- : 71 26 0 : 15 36 0 : 24 13 0 : -- : -- : --.
-- : 8 30 30 : -- : 71 28 0 : 15 11 0 : 24 8 0 : -- : -- : --.
-- : 8 32 15 : -- : 71 29 0 : 14 56 0 : 23 57 0 : -- : -- : --.
------------------------------------------------
-- : 25 30 00 : -- : - 83 0 : 45 43 0 : 72 18 0 : -- : -- : --.
------------------------------------------------
1st set : 8 30 0 : 6 12 53 : 71 27 40 : 15 14 20 : 24 6 0 : 15 22 39 : 23
43 0 : 66 7 45.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------

-- : 8 33 50 : -- : 71 30 0 : 14 43 0 : 23 38 0 : -- : -- : --.
-- : 8 35 39 : -- : - 31 0 : 14 25 0 : 23 42 0 : -- : -- : --.
-- : 8 37 46 : -- : - 30 30 : 14 10 0 : 23 32 0 : -- : -- : --.
-------------------------------------------------
-- : 8 107 15 : -- : - 91 30 : 43 18 0 : 23 112 0 : -- : -- : --.
-------------------------------------------------
2nd set : 8 35 45 : 6 18 41 : 71 30 30 : 14 26 0 : 23 37 20 : 14 34 00 :
23 14 0 : 66 19 45.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------

-- : 8 39 10 : -- : 71 31 30 : 13 56 0 : 23 26 0 : -- : -- : --.
-- : 8 41 20 : -- : - 32 00 : 13 40 0 : 23 20 0 : -- : -- : --.
-- : 8 43 49 : -- : - 33 00 : 13 18 0 : 23 6 0 : -- : -- : --.
-------------------------------------------------
-- : 8 124 19 : -- : - 96 30 : - 114 0 : - 52 0 : -- : -- : --.
-------------------------------------------------
3rd set : 8 41 26 : 6 24 26 : 71 32 10 : 13 38 0 : 23 17 20 : 13 46 0 :
22 55 0 : 66 0 45.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------

N.B. The mean of the three sets is 66 degrees 9 minutes 25 seconds, and
the mean of Mr. Green's Computations from the same Observations was 66
degrees 14 minutes 0 seconds, and the mean of his computations and mine
will be 66 degrees 11 minutes 32 seconds, and therefore the Longitude of
Cape St. Diego or the North-West entrance of Strait Le Maire will be 66
degrees 0 minutes 0 seconds West from Greenwich, and its Latitude 54
degrees 39 minutes South.* (* Modern determination is 54 degrees 40
minutes South, 65 degrees 8 minutes West.)

Note: The distance of the sun and moon was taken by Mr. Green alone, my
Quadrant being out of Order.

Cape St. Diego bore at this time South by East about 4 Leagues Distant.
At 1/2 past 7 Tackt and Stood to the South-East, Cape St. Diego bearing
South by East, distance 5 Leagues. At 1 a.m., Squally, wore Ship, Staten
Land extending from North to East. At 4, Moderate Weather, loosed a Reef
out of each Topsail, the Cape of Good Success West by South, and Cape St.
Diego North-North-West, being now in the Strait, but the Tide turning
against us soon carried us out. The Violence of the Tide of Ebb rose such
a Sea off Cape St. Diego, that it looked as if it was breaking Violently
on the ledge of Rocks, and would be taken for such by any who know'd not
the true cause. When the Ship was in this Torrent she frequently Pitched
her Bowsprit in the Water. By Noon we got under the Land between Cape St.
Diego and Cape St. Vincent, where I thought to have Anchored, but found
the Bottom every where hard and Rocky; the Depth of Water from 30 to 12
fathoms. Sent the Master to Examine a small Cove which appeared to our
View a little to the Eastward of Cape St. Vincent. Wind South-South-West
and South-West by South.

Sunday, 15th. Moderate breezes at South and South-East, and cloudy
weather, the greater part of this day. At 2 p.m. the Master return'd with
an account that there was Anchorage in 4 fathoms Water and a good bottom
close to the Eastward of the first black bluff point which is on the East
side of Cape St. Vincent, at the very Entrance of the Cove we saw from
the Ship (which I named Vincent Bay). Before this Anchoring ground lay
several Rocky Ledges covered with Sea Weed: on these Ledges I was
informed was not less than 8 or 9 fathoms, but in standing in with the
Ship the first we came upon had only 4 fathoms upon it. I therefore
thought that Anchoring here would be attended with some Risk, and that it
would be better to Endeavour to find some Port in the Strait, and there
Compleat our Wood and Water. However, I sent an Officer with a Boat on
shore to attend to Mr. Banks and people who was very desirous of being on
shore at any rate, while I keept plying as near the shore as possible
with the Ship. At 9 they return'd on board bringing with them several
Plants, Flowers, etc., most of them unknown in Europe, and in that Alone
consisted their whole Value; they saw none of the Natives, but meet with
several of their old Hutts. Hoisted the Boat in and made Sail into the
Straits and at 3 a.m. Anchord in 12 1/2 fathoms Water (the bottom Coral
rocks) before a small Cove which we took for Port Maurice, and near 1/2 a
Mile from the shore Cape St. Diego South-South-West, and Cape St.
Bartholomew (which is the south point of Staten Land) East-South-East.

Port Maurice appeared to afford so little Shelter for Shipping that I did
not think it worth while to hoist a Boat out to Examine it; we saw here 2
of the Natives come down to the Shore, who stay'd sometime, then retir'd
into the Woods againe. At 10 o'Clock got under Sail, Wind at South-East,
and plyed to Windward.

[In Success Bay.]

Monday, 16th. A Fresh breeze of Wind at South and South-West, with
frequent showers of Rain and Snow. At 2 p.m. Anchored in the Bay of
Success in 9 fathoms, the bottom Owse and sand.* (* The Endeavour was
three days and a half in getting through the Strait of Le Maire, as far
as Success Bay. It is a difficult passage for a sailing vessel even in
the present day, as the tides are strong and winds generally contrary,
but experience has enabled good directions to be given as to the best way
to pass the Strait. Cook himself gives capital advice farther on.) The
south point of the Bay bore South-East and the north point
East-North-East. This Bay I shall describe when I come to speake of the
rest of the Coast. Hoisted out the Boats and moor'd with the Stream
Anchor. While this was doing I went ashore accompanyed by Mr. Banks and
Dr. Solander to look for a Watering place and to speak with the Natives,
who were assembled on the Beach at the Head of the Bay to the Number of
30 or 40. They were so far from being afraid or surprised at our coming
amongst them that three of them came on board without the least
hesitation. They are something above the Middle size, of a Dark Copper
Colour with long black hair; they paint their Bodies in Streakes, mostly
Red and Black. Their Cloathing consists wholy in a Guanacoe Skin or that
of a Seal, in the same form as it came from the Animal's back.

The Women Wear a Piece of Skin over their Privy Parts, but the Men
observe no such decency. Their Hutts are made like a behive, and open on
one side where they have their fires; they are made of small Sticks and
covered with branches of trees, long Grass, etc., in such a manner that
they are neither Proof against Wind, Hail, rain or Snow, a sufficient
proof that these People must be a very hardy race. They live chiefly on
shell fish, such as Muscels, which they gather from off the Rocks along
the Sea Shore, and this seems to be the Work of the Women. Their Arms are
Bows and Arrows neatly made; their Arrows are bearded, some with glass
and others with fine flint; several Pieces of the former we saw amongst
them with other European things, such as rings, Buttons, Cloth, Canvas,
etc., which I think proves that they must sometimes travel to the
Northward, as we know of no Ship that hath been in these parts for many
Years; besides, they were not at all surprised at our Fire Arms; on the
Contrary, they seemed to know the use of them, by making signs to us to
fire at Seals or Birds that might come in the way. They have no Boats
that we saw or anything to go upon the Water with; their number doth not
Exceed 50 or 60 young and old, and there are fewer Women than Men. They
are Extreamly fond of any Red thing, and seemed to set more Value on
Beads than anything we could give them; in this Consists their whole
Pride, few, either Men or Women, are without a Necklace or String of
Beads made of Small Shells or bones about their Necks. They would not
taste any strong Liquor, neither did they seem fond of our Provisions. We
could not discover that they had any Head or Chief or Form of Government,
neither have they any useful or necessary Utensil except it be a Bag or
Basket to gather their Muscels into. In a word they are perhaps as
Miserable a sett of People as are this day upon Earth.* (* Cook's
description of the natives of Tierra del Fuego is good to the present
day, except that those who live farther westward are still more wretched.
Those of the main island, in which the Bay of Good Success lies, are able
to kill guanaco, and enjoy a better climate. They, as Cook observed,
never go on the water, whereas those westward practically live in
canoes.) Having found a convenient place on the south side of the Bay to
Wood and Water at, we set about that Work in the Morning, and Mr. Banks
with a Party went into the Country to gather Plants, etc.

Tuesday, 17th. Fresh Gales at South-South-West and West-South-West with
rain and Snow, and, of Course, very cold weather; notwithstanding we kept
geting on board Wood and Water, and finished the Survey of the Bay. Mr.
Banks and his Party not returning this Evening as I expected, gave me
great uneasiness, as they were not prepared for Staying out the Night.
However, about Noon they returned in no very Comfortable Condition, and
what was still worse 2 blacks, servants to Mr. Banks, had perished in the
Night with Cold. Great part of the day they landed was spent before they
got through the Woods, after which they advanced so far into the Country
that they were so far from being able to return that night, and with much
difficulty they got to a place of Tolerable Shelter where they could make
a fire: these 2 men being Intrusted with great part of the Liquor (that
was for the whole party) had made too free with it, and Stupified
themselves to that degree that they either could or would not Travel, but
laid themselves down in a place where there was not the least thing to
Shelter them from the inclemency of the night. This was about 1/4 of a
Mile from where the rest took up their Quarters, and notwithstanding
their repeated Endeavours, they could not get them to move one Step
farther, and the bad travelling made it impossible for any one to Carry
them, so that they were Obliged to leave them, and the next morning they
were both found dead.

Wednesday, 18th. All the Middle and Latter parts of this day it blow'd
very strong from the South-South-West and South-West, attended with Snow,
Hail and Rain, and brought such a Sea into the Bay, which rose the Surf
to such a Height that no Boat could land. The same Stormy weather and
Surf continued all

Thursday, 19th. All this time the Ship road very easy with her Broad side
to the swell. The great Surf that always will be upon the Shore when the
wind blows hard from the Southward makes Wooding and Watering tedious,
notwithstanding there are great plenty of both close to high water Mark.

Friday, 20th. Moderate gales and Cloudy with frequent Showers of rain all
this day. This Evening the Surf abated, and at 2 a.m. sent the People on
shore to Wood and Water and cut Brooms, all of which we Completed this
day. In this Service we lost our small Kedge Anchor, it having been laid
off the Watering Place to ride the Long-boat by, and the Gale had broke
away the Hawser and Buoy rope, and perhaps buried the Anchor in the Sand,
for notwithstanding our utmost Endeavours we were not able to Hook it.
Took up the Stream Anchor and made ready for Sailing.

[Sailed from Success Bay.]

Saturday, 21st. Wind from South-South-West to South-West; moderate
breezes the first part; latter, fresh Gales with Showers of Rain. P.M.
hoisted in the Boats, and made ready for Sailing; at 2 a.m. weighed and
made Sail out of the Bay. At 1/2 past 4 the Cape of good Success bore
West, and Cape Bartholomew East. Variation per Azimuth, 24 degrees 9
minutes East; at Noon the Cape of good Success bore North 36 degrees
West; distance, 11 leagues.

Sunday, 22nd. Wind between the South and the West first and Latter part,
fresh Gales and Squally, with rain; the Middle, little wind and rain.
A.M. found the Variation by several Azimuths to be 20 degrees 4 minutes
East. Unbent the Cables and Stowed the Anchors. At Noon, Latitude
observed 56 degrees 7 minutes South, longitude, made from the Cape of
Good Success, 42 minutes East.

Monday, 23rd. Winds variable from South-East round by the South-West to
North-West. First part, a fresh breeze and Squally, the remainder
moderate breezes and sometimes Calm and clear weather, which is more than
we have had for several days past. At 4 a.m. saw the Land in the
South-West Quarter, and a small Island bearing West; from this Time until
9 it was Calm, at which time the Ship drove very fast to the North-East
by North. At 9 Sprung up a light breeze at North, loos'd all the Reefs
out, and set the Steering sails. The Cape of good Success bore North-East
by North; Staten land seen from the Deck bearing North-East; the Sugar
Loaf on Terra Del Fuego North-North-East, and is the same Hill as is seen
from the North-East side of the Land; it appears to stand but a little
way in Land from the Shore; and the Mainland and Islands on the Coast
extending from the Cape of good Success to the South by West. The Country
Mountainous, of an indifferent height; the Tops were covered with Snow,
which had lately fell, as it did not lay long. There appeared to be
several Bays and inlets and Islands laying along the Coast; the 3rd view
in the Chart exhibits the appearance of this Coast where g is new Island,
c the Sugar Loaf, and h the Cape of good Success. At noon the West End of
New Island bore North-West by West, 5 leagues. Latitude observed 55
degrees 25 minutes South, this Island I named New Island because it is
not laid down in any Chart.* (* This island is still so called in the
charts.)

Tuesday, 24th. The fore and Middle parts of these 24 Hours Moderate Gales
and Cloudy with some Showers of Rain; the Latter, fresh gales with flying
Showers. At 7 p.m. New Island bore North-West by North, and a small
Island laying to the Westward of it bore West by North. Variation per
Several Azimuths 21 degrees 0 minutes East, which is much less than we
have yet found it upon this Coast; yet I am satisfied with the Goodness
of the Observations. At 1/2 past 1 a.m. the Wind Shifted from
South-South-West to East-South-East. Tackt and stood South-West; at 6 Saw
the Land to the Westward making like several Islands. At 8 two Small
Islands laying off a low Point of Land bore West by South, distant 3
Leagues, and the small Island we saw last night bore North-North-West.
This I take to be the Island of Evouts, it is about one League in
Circuit, and of a Moderate height and lies 4 Leagues from the Main. Near
the South Point of it are some Peaked rocks pretty high above Water; the
wind coming to the Southward we did but just weather this Island; in
passing it, sounded and had 40 fathoms Water, sand, and broken Shells. At
Noon it bore North-East distance one League, and the low point of land
before mentioned South 17 degrees West distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Tackt and
Stood to the South-East, wind at South-South-West. From this low Point
the land trends to the North-West, about 4 Leagues, where it ends in a
low point round which to the Westward appears to be a Deep Bay, unless
this land should prove to be an Island or Islands, which is most likely.
It rises into high Craggy hills, and the Shore seems to form several
Bays; if so, they must afford good Shelter for Shipping against Southerly
and Westerly winds.

[Off Cape Horn.]

Wednesday, 25th. Winds from the South to the West-North-West, the first
part fresh Gales and Squally with some Rain; Middle, little wind with
Hail and Rain; latter, fresh Gales and Hazey, with Showers of Rain. At 8
p.m. the Island of Evouts North-West, distant 3 or 4 miles. Variation,
per morning Amplitude 21 degrees 16 minutes East. At 8 a.m. the
Southermost low point of land seen Yesterday Bore South 74 degrees West,
and a remarkable Peaked Hill to the Southward of it South-West; and soon
after we discovered that the land which we took Yesterday to be a part of
the Main or an Island, was three Islands, which I take to be Hermites. At
Noon the South Point of the Southermost Island bore North-West by West
distant 3 leagues, having then 58 fathoms Peble Stones. This Point is
pretty high and consists of Peaked Craggy rocks, and not far from it lay
several others high above Water. It lies in the Latitude of 55 degrees 53
minutes South and South-West 26 Leagues from Straits La Mair, and by some
on board thought to be Cape Horn; but I was of another Opinion, and with
good reason, because we saw land to the Southward of it about 3 or 4
leagues. It appeared not unlike an Island with a very high round Hummock
upon it; this I believe to be Cape Horn, for after we had stood about 3
Leagues the weather cleared up for about a quarter of an hour, which gave
us a sight of the land bearing West-South-West, but we could see no land
to the southward or Westward of it, and therefore conclude that it must
be the Cape, but whether it be an Island of itself, a part of the
Southermost of Hermits Islands, or a part of Terra del Fuego, I am not
able to determine. However, this is of very little Consequence to
Navigation: I only wished to be Certain whether or no it was the
Southermost Land on or near to Terra del Fuego; but the thick foggy
weather and the westerly winds which Carried us from the land prevented
me from satisfying my Curiosity in this point, but from its Latitude and
the reasons before given I think it must, and if so it must be Cape Horn,
and lies in the latitude of 55 degrees 53 minutes South and Longitude 68
degrees 13 minutes West from the Meridian of Greenwich,* (* No doubt this
was Cape Horn, but it lies in 55 degrees 58 minutes South, 67 degrees 16
minutes West.) being the Mean result of Several Observations of the sun
and moon made the day after we left the land, and which agreed with those
made at Straits Le Mair, allowing for the distance between one place and
the other, which I found means very accurately to determine. As we are
now about taking our departure from the Land, which we are not likely to
fall in with again, I shall give a more full Description of such parts of
the Coasts of Terra del Fuego as hath fallen under my inspection.

We fell in with this Coast 21 Leagues to the Westward of Straits Le Mair,
and ranged the coast from thence to the Strait within 2 or 3 Leagues of
the Land, and had soundings all the way from 40 to 20 fathoms, a Gravelly
and Sandy Bottom. The land near the Shore is in general low but hilly,
the face of the Country appears Green and Woody, but in land are Craggy
Mountains; they appeared to be of no great height, nor were they Covered
with Snow. The most remarkable land on Terra Del Fuego is a high Mountain
in form of a Sugar Loaf, situated not far from the sea on the South-West
side of the Land, and 3 hills called the 3 Brothers. They lay near the
Shore and nine Miles to the Westward of Cape St. Diego, which is a low
point that forms the North-West Entrance of Strait Le Mair, and are
Contiguous to Each other. The Sugar Loaf lies from these Hills
South-South-West, and when it was in this situation the Appearances of
the Land is represented in the first View in the Chart, but it must be
observed that from this point of View the Three Brothers appear far more
Conspicuous than from any other; these land Marks are by some Voyagers
thought very necessary to know Strait Le Mair by, but whoever coasts
Terra Del Fuego within sight of land cannot possibly miss the Strait, it
being of itself so very Conspicuous; and Staten Land, which forms the
East side, is still more so from its very rugged appearance. One League
and a half to the Westward of Cape St. Diego lies Cape St. Vincent,
between these two Capes lies Vincent's Bay,* (* Now called Thetis Bay, it
is a very poor anchorage.) a Small Cove wherein is Wood and Water, and
before which a Ship might Anchor with a Southerly or South-West wind, but
the ground is none of the best, unless you go into the very Mouth of the
Cove, which is on the East side of the first Bluff point from Cape St.
Vincent, where there is Anchorage in 4 fathoms, a Sandy Bottom. In going
in keep clear of the Sea Weed, and send a Boat Ahead to sound, and at
best this is but a bad place for Shipping, and only recommended to such
as are in want of Wood and Water, and have no Opportunity to put into the
Strait, which in Prudence ought not to be attempted but with a fair wind
or Moderate weather, and upon the very first of the Tide of Flood, which
hapens here at the full and Change of the Moon about 1 or 2 o'clock, and
then to keep as near to Terra Del Fuego Shore as the winds will permit.
By using these Precautions you will be sure of either getting quite
through the Straits in one Tide or to the Southward of Success Bay; and
it may be more Prudent to put in there should the wind be Southerly, than
to attempt to weather Staten Land with a Lee Wind and Current, for I
believe this to be the Chief reason why Ships have run a Risk of being
drove on that Island.

Strait Le Maire is formed on the West by part of Terra Del Fuego, and on
the East by the West end of Staten Land or Island; its Length and Breadth
is about 5 Leagues each; about the Middle of the Strait is Success Bay,
on Terra Del Fuego side, and about a 1/4 of a League more to the
Northwards is Port Maurice, a little Cove, before which we Anchored in 12
fathoms.

[Description of Strait of Le Maire.]

The Bay of Success is discovered immediately upon entring the Strait from
the Northward; there is likewise a good Land Mark near the South head to
know it by, which is a Mark on the land like a lane or broad road leading
up from the Sea into the Country; this Bay is 1/2 a League Wide at the
Entrance, and lies in West 2 1/2 Miles, and hath good Anchorage in every
part of it, in 10, 8, and 7 fathoms clear ground, and affords plenty of
exceeding good Wood and Water. The Wood is of the Birch kind, but of a
diffrent Quality to that in England or North America; here are likewise
of the Winter Bark tree and some few others, Wild Selary, some Berrys
like Cranberrys, but growing on Bushes, very few Wild Fowls of any Sort,
and no Fish Except Shell Fish, such as Muscels, Limpets, etc.; and what
we saw of the interior parts of the Country is still more barren of the
necessaries of Life than the Sea. The few days we stay'd here we had
constant bad weather, the Winds from the South-West and West-South-West
with rain, Hail and Snow. Snow generally fell on the Hills everywhere
with these winds when we had rain in the Bay or upon the Sea Coast. I
observed the same in respect to Staten Land, but as it never froze it did
not lay long; yet it must render the Country Cold and barren, and unfit
for Cultivation. The Tides in Success Bay flows at the full and Change of
the Moon, about 4 or 5 o'Clock, and riseth between 5 and 6 feet
Perpendicular, but in the Strait the flood runs 2 or 3 Hours longer, and
there the Ebb or Southerly Current runs near Double the strength of the
Flood or Northerly Current.

Staten Island lies nearest East and West, and from what I could see and
judge of it may be about 12 Leagues in length and 5 in breadth. On the
North side are the appearances of Bays or Harbours, and the land is not
destitute of Wood and Verdure, nor covered with Snow any more than Terra
del Fuego.

On the South-West side of the Cape of good Success (which forms the
South-West entrance of Strait Le Mair, and is known by some rocks off it)
lies Valentine's Bay, the entrance of which we only saw. From this Bay
the land Trends to the West-South-West; for 20 or 30 Leagues it appears
High and Mountainous, and forms several Bays and inlets South-West 1/2
South 14 Leagues from the Cape of good Success, and 2 or 3 Leagues from
the Shore lies New Island; it is 2 leagues in length, North-East and
South-West, the North-East end is terminated by a remarkable Hillock.
South-West 7 Leagues from New Island lies the Isle Evouts, and South, a
little Westerly from this island, lies Barnevelts, two small flatt
Islands close to each other; they are partly Environ'd with rocks of
Different height above water, and lay South-West 24 leagues from Strait
le Mair. From Barnevelts Island to the South-East point of Hermites
island is South-West by South, distance 3 Leagues. These Islands lay
South-East and North-West, and are pretty high, and will, from most
points of view, be taken for one Island or a part of the Main; from the
South-East point of Hermites Isles to Cape Horn, the Course is South-West
by South, distance 3 Leagues. The Appearance of this Cape and Hermites
Islands is represented in the last View in the chart which I have drawn
of this Coast from our first making the land unto Cape Horn, in which is
included Strait Le Mair and part of Staten Land. In this chart I have
laid down no land nor figured out any Shore, but what I saw myself and
thus far the Chart may be depended upon. The Bays and inlets are left
voide, the openings of which we only see from the Ship. It cannot be
doubted but what there is Anchorage, Wood and Water in those Bays, and it
must have been in some of them that the Dutch Squadron commanded by
Hermites put into in the year 1624. It was the Vice Admiral Chapenham, of
this Squadron, who first discovered that the land of Cape Horn was
consisted of a Number of Islands, but the account they have given of
those parts is very short and imperfect, and that of Schouton and Le
Maire still worse, that it is no wonder that the Charts hitherto
published should be found incorrect, not only in laying down the Land,
but in the Latitude and Longitude of the places they contain, but I can
now venture to Assert that the Longitude of few parts of the World are
better Ascertained than that of Strait Le Maire and Cape Horn, being
determined by several Observations of the Sun and moon made both by
myself and Mr. Green, the Astronomer.

We found the Variation of the Compass on this Coast to be from 23 to 25
degrees east, except near Barnevelts Islands and Cape Horn, where we
found it less and unsettled; it is likely that it is here disturbed by
the land, as the Dutch Squadron before mentioned found in this very place
all their Compasses to differ from each other. The declination of the
South point of the Dipping Needle when set up ashore in Success Bay was
68 degrees 15 minutes below the horizon. Between Strait Le Maire and Cape
Horn we found a Current setting generally pretty strong to the North-East
when we were in with the Shore, but when 15 or 20 Leagues off we were not
sencible of any.

REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES IN JANUARY 1769. SOUTH SEAS.

[Off Cape Horn.]

Thursday, 26th. Fresh Gales and thick Hazey weather, with small rain. At
2 p.m., the weather clearing up a little, saw Cape Horn bearing
West-South-West, distance about 6 leagues, and from which I take my
departure. Its Latitude and Longitude have before been taken notice of.
Wind South-West by West to West-North-West; course South 15 degrees West;
distance, 63 miles; latitude 56 degrees 57 minutes South; longitude 68
degrees 13 minutes West; at noon, Cape Horn North, 58 miles.

Friday, 27th. First part, moderate breezes and thick Hazey weather; the
Middle, fair and Cloudy; and the Latter, fresh Gales with some rain. At 8
a.m. took two Setts of Observations of the sun and moon; the first gave
68 degrees 15 minutes; the second, 68 degrees 9 minutes; the Mean of the
2 is 68 degrees 12 minutes West. The Longitude of the Ship at Noon by
these Observations is 68 degrees 42 minutes less 14 minutes, the
Longitude made from Cape Horn, equal to 68 degrees 28 minutes, the
longitude of Cape Horn according to the Observation. A Great many large
Albetrosses about the Ship. Wind, South-West, West and North; course,
South and West; distance, 32 miles; latitude 57 degrees 2 minutes South,
longitude 68 degrees 27 minutes West.

Saturday, 28th. Fresh Gales the most part of this day; first and Middle
parts cloudy; latter, clear with a Sharp cold air. At 2 p.m. saw the
land, bearing North, distant about 8 Leagues; it made in 2 Hummocks, and
appeared to be an Island, which I take to be the Isle of Diego Ramirez.
It lays in the Latitude of 56 degrees 38 minutes South and Longitude 68
degrees 47 minutes West from Greenwich.* (* Diego Ramirez is in 56
degrees 31 minutes South, 68 degrees 43 minutes West.) Found the
Variation this Evening to be 22 degrees East. A.M. had 3 sets of
Observations of the sun and moon, which gave the Longitude 69 degrees 7
minutes 15 seconds West. The Longitude of the Ship at Noon by the
Observation is 69 degrees 24 minutes, from which take 1 degree 48
minutes, the longitude made from Cape Horn, the remainder is 67 degrees
36 minutes, the Longitude of the Cape, which is 52 minutes less than the
result of Yesterday's Observations.* (* This was the best observation.)
This difference may arise partly from the Observations and partly from
the Ship's runs; the mean of the 2 gives 68 degrees 2 minutes and 68
degrees 24 minutes, the Longitude of the Cape from the Observations taken
at Strait Maire 136 degrees 26 minutes/2 = 68 degrees 13 minutes West
from Greenwich. The Longitude of Cape Horn being deduced from no less
than 24 Observations taken at no very great distance from the Cape, and
on both sides of it, and when the Sun was both to the East and West of
the Moon; for in this case the Errors arising from the Observations are
most likely to Correct one another. Wind, North and West by North to
North-West by West; course, South 39 degrees West; distance, 80 miles;
latitude 58 degrees 4 minutes South, longitude 70 degrees 1 minute West.

Sunday, 29th. First and Latter parts, fresh Gales and Squally, with
flying Showers of rain and Hail; the Middle, strong Gales with heavy
Squalls and showers of rain. At 8 p.m. took 2nd Reef Topsails, at 6 a.m.
Close reefd the Foretopsails and took in the Mizen Topsl, and at 10 set
it again and let the reef out of the Fore top-sails. Wind, West
Northerly; course South-West; distance, 79 miles; latitude 59 degrees 0
minutes South, longitude 72 degrees 48 minutes West.

Monday, 30th. Fore part, fresh Gales and Squally with Hail and rain,
remainder moderate and Cloudy. At 6 a.m. loosed the 2nd reef out of the
Topsails and set Top-gallant Sails. At 11 Longitude per 3 sets of
Observations of the sun and moon, 1st set 73 degrees 38 minutes 15
seconds; second set 73 degrees 25 minutes 45 seconds; and 3rd, 73 degrees
19 minutes 30 seconds; the mean of the whole is 73 degrees 27 minutes 50
seconds West, and 35 minutes less than the Longitude by Dead reckoning,
which is only 6 Leagues in this Latitude, and therefore not worth taking
notice of. Latitude per Observation 60 degrees 4 minutes South. Wind West
by North and West-North-West; course, South 33 degrees West; distance, 76
miles; latitude 60 degrees 4 minutes South, longitude 74 degrees 10
minutes West.

Tuesday, 31st. First part moderate and Cloudy, with some rain; in the
night, little wind and Calm; towards Noon, fresh Gales and Cloudy.
Between 7 and 8 p.m., being then in the Latitude of 60 degrees 10
minutes, which was the farthest south we were, and in the Longitude of 74
degrees 30 minutes found the Variation of the Compass by the mean of
Azimuth to be 27 degrees 9 minutes East. At 3 a.m. wind at
East-South-East, and Moderate breeze. Set the Steeringsails, and soon
after 2 Birds like Penguins were seen by the Mate of the Watch. Wind
West-North-West, calm, East-South-East, South-South-East; course North 71
degrees West; distance, 55 miles; latitude 59 degrees 46 minutes South,
longitude 75 degrees 54 minutes West.

[February 1769.]

Wednesday, February 1st. First part, fresh Gales; latter, light Airs and
Cloudy; P.M. found the Variation by several Azimuth to be 24 degrees 53
minutes East. At Noon sounded, but had no ground with 240 fathoms of
line; hoisted a Boat out to try if there was any Current, but found none.
The weather was such as to admit Mr. Banks to row round the Ship in a
Lighterman's Skiff shooting birds. Wind, South-East by East,
South-South-East, East; course, North-West by West; distance, 106 miles;
latitude 58 degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 78 degrees 42 minutes
West.

Thursday, 2nd. First part, light breezes and Cloudy; remainder, sometimes
a fresh breeze and at other times little wind and hazey, rainy, Cold
weather. Took in the Steeringsls and a reef in each Topsail. Wind
variable, North-North-West, South-West and South; course, West by North;
distance, 82 miles; latitude 58 degrees 30 minutes South, longitude 80
degrees 58 minutes West.

Friday, 3rd. Calm and Light Airs, and for the most part Cloudy and
sometimes drizling rain. Variation 24 degrees 4 minutes East. Wind, West
by North, North-West by West; course South 82 West; distance 30 miles;
latitude 58 degrees 33 minutes South, longitude 81 degrees 55 minutes
West.

Saturday, 4th. Fore and Middle parts, little wind and dark cloudy
weather; latter, fresh Gales and Cloudy with some rain. P.M. had a Boat
out and Shott several sorts of Birds, one of which was an Albetross as
large as a Goose, whose wings when Extended measured 10 feet 2 inches;
this was grey, but there are of them all White except the very tip end of
their Wings. Another sort, in size between an Albetross and a large Gull,
of a grey Colour, with a white Spot above their Tail about the Breadth of
one's hand, and several other sorts. Wind Westerly; course North 13
degrees West; distance 48 miles; latitude 57 degrees 45 minutes South,
longitude 82 degrees 16 minutes West.

Sunday, 5th. Fresh gales with heavy squalls the first part; remainder,
little wind and Cloudy. Very cold weather. Wind, West-South-West, West by
North and South-West by West; course North; distance 49 miles; latitude
56 degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 82 degrees 16 minutes West.

Monday, 6th. A moderate breeze of Wind with some flying showers of hail
and rain; close upon a Wind all this day. Wind South-West by West to West
by North; course North 1/4 East; distance 86 miles; latitude 55 degrees
20 minutes South, longitude 82 degrees 23 minutes West.

Tuesday, 7th. A fresh breeze and dark cloudy weather, with some showers
of rain; the wind, varying from West to North by West, obliged us to Tack
several times. Wind North-West by West, West by South; course North 20
degrees West; distance 46 miles; latitude 54 degrees 40 minutes South,
longitude 82 degrees 54 minutes West.

Wednesday, 8th. First part, cloudy with Squalls of wind and Showers of
rain and hail; Latter part thick hazey weather, with frequent Showers.
Wind, Westerly, South by West; course North 14 degrees 43 minutes West;
distance 58 miles; latitude 53 degrees 36 minutes South, longitude 83
degrees 19 minutes West.

Thursday, 9th. Fresh gales all this day, sometimes squally with rain;
under Double-reef Topsails in the night, and Single-reeft Topsail in the
day. Wind Southerly; course North 55 degrees West: distance 130 miles;
latitude 52 degrees 22 minutes South, longitude 86 degrees 17 minutes
West.

Friday, 10th. The former part of this day had fresh breezes and Dark
cloudy weather; in the night hard Squalls with rain, and afterwards hazy,
rainy weather. Wind Westerly; course North 22 degrees West; distance 67
miles; latitude 51 degrees 16 minutes South, longitude 86 degrees 37
minutes West.

Saturday, 11th. Former part Light Airs with drizling rain; remainder, a
Moderate breeze and Cloudy. Wind, variable, southerly; course, North 54
degrees West; distance 36 miles; latitude 50 degrees 55 minutes South,
longitude 87 degrees 24 minutes West.

Sunday, 12th. First and Middle parts, fresh gales and cloudy; latter,
little wind and clear. Having for some time past generally found the Ship
by Observation to the Northward of the Log, which is not owing to a
Current as I at first imagined, but to a wrong Division of the Log line,
being 2 1/2 feet in each Knot--but this is now rectified. Wind South-West
by South; course North 48 degrees West; distance 113 miles; latitude 49
degrees 41 minutes South, longitude 89 degrees 36 minutes West.

Monday, 13th. The first part of these 24 Hours, moderate breezes and
Cloudy; remainder, fresh Gales and cloudy. P.M saw a great many
Albetrosses and other Birds about the Ship; some were all white and about
the size of Teal. Took several Observations of the sun and moon, the
result of which gave 90 degrees 13 minutes West Longitude from Greenwich.
The Variation of the Compass by the Mean of several Azimuths 17 degrees
East. The Longitude by account is less than that by Observation, 37
minutes, which is about 20 Miles in these high Latitudes, and nearly
equal to the Error of the Log line before mentioned. This near Agreement
of the 2 Longitudes proves to a Demonstration that we have had no Western
Current since we left the Land. Wind West, Northerly; course North 75
degrees West; distance 35 miles; latitude 49 degrees 35 minutes,
longitude 90 degrees 37 minutes.

[Remarks on Passage round Cape Horn.]

From the Foregoing observations it will appear that we are now advanced
about 12 degrees to the westward of the Strait of Magellan, and 3 1/2
degrees to the Northward of it, having been 33* (* N.B. 23 days only from
Success Bay.) days in Doubling Cape Horn or the Land of Terra del Fuego,
and Arriving into the Degree of Latitude and Longitude we are now in, and
without being brought once under our close Reef'd Topsails since we left
Strait Le Maire, a Circumstance that perhaps never hapned before to any
ship in those Seas so much dreaded for Hard gales of Wind; in so much
that the doubling of Cape Horn is thought by some to be a mighty thing,
and others to this day prefer the Straits of Magellan. As I have never
been in those Straits I can only form my Judgement on a Carefull
Comparison of the Different Ships' Journals that have passed them, and
those that have sail'd round Cape Horn, particularly the Dolphin's two
last Voyages and this of ours, being made at the same season of the Year,
when one may reasonable expect the same Winds to prevail. The Dolphin in
her last Voyage was three Months in getting through the Straits, not
reckoning the time she lay in Port Famine; and I am firmly perswaided
from the Winds we have had, that had we come by that Passage we should
not have been in these Seas, besides the fatiguing of our People, the
damage we must have done to our Anchors, Cables, Sails, and Rigging, none
of which have suffer'd in our passage round Cape Horn.

From what I have said it will appear that I am no advocate for the
Straits of Magellan, but it should be expected that I should say
something of Strait le Mair, through which we passed, and this is the
more incumbant on me as it was by choice and contrary to the Advice given
by Mr. Walter, the ingenious Author of Lord Anson's Voyage, who advised
all Ships not to go through this Strait but to go to the Eastward of
Staten Land, and likewise to stand to the Southward as far as 61 or 62
degrees south before any Endeavour is made to get to the Westward. With
respect to the Passing of Strait le Mair or going round Staten Land, I
look upon of little Consequence, and either one or the other to be
pursued according to Circumstances; for if you happen to fall in with the
land to the Westward of the Strait, and the winds favourable for going
through, it certainly must be a piece of folly to lose time in going
round Staten Land, for by paying a little Attention to the Directions I
have already given no ill Consequences can attend; but on the Contrary if
you should fall in with the land to the eastward of the Straits or the
wind should prove Boisterous, or unfavourable, in any of these Cases the
going to the eastward of Staten Land is the most Advisable. And next, as
to running into the Latitude of 61 or 62 degrees South before any
Endeavour is made to get to the Westward, is what I think no man will
ever do that can avoid it, for it cannot be supposed that anyone will
steer south mearly to get into a high Latitude, when at the same time he
can steer west, for it is not Southing but Westing that is wanting. But
this way you cannot Steer because the Wind blows almost Constantly from
that Quarter, so that you have no other Choice but to stand to the
Southward, close upon a Wind, and by keeping upon that Tack you not only
make Southing but Westing also, and sometimes not a little when the wind
Varies to the Northward of West; and the farther you advance to the
Southward the better Chance you have of having the Winds from that
Quarter or Easterly, and likewise of meeting with finer weather, both of
which we ourselves Experienced. Prudence will direct every man when in
those high Latitudes to make sure of sufficient Westing to double all the
lands before he thinks of standing to the Northward. When the winds was
Westerly the Mountains on Terra Del Fuego were generally covered with
dense Clouds, formed, as one may reasonably suppose, by Westerly
Exhalations and by Vapours brought thither by the Westerly winds. From
that Quarter come frequent Showers of rain, hail, and Snow; and after we
had left the land and were standing to the Southward, with the winds
westerly, dark dence clouds were Continually forming in the Horizon, and
rose to about 45 degrees, where they began to dissipate. These were
generally attended with Showers of Rain, or hail, and Squals of Wind, but
as we advanced to the Southward, these Clouds became less dence, and in
the Latitude of 60 degrees 10 minutes, when we got the winds Easterly,
the weather was more serene and Milder; again as we advanced to the
Northward we had a constant Clouded sky and dark gloomy weather, the
whole time exceeding Cold.

[Cape Horn to Tahiti.]

Tuesday, 14th. The first part, fresh Gales and Hazey with rain; the
remainder moderate and Cloudy, with frequent rain. Wind, Westerly, South;
course South-West; distance 32 miles; latitude 49 degrees 6 minutes
South, longitude 91 degrees 12 minutes West.

Wednesday, 15th. Little wind and Cloudy the most part of this day.
Variation per Azimuth in the Evening 12 degrees East, and in the morning
both by an Amplitude and an Azimuth 11 degrees East. A.M. Shifted the
Mainsail, Mizen, Fore, and Main topsail. Wind, South-South-West,
South-West, West by North; course North 46 degrees West; distance 86
miles; latitude 48 degrees 27 minutes South, longitude 92 degrees 5
minutes West.

Thursday, 16th. The first part of this day had fresh Gales and Cloudy; in
the night thick hazey weather with heavy squalls of wind and rain, which
obliged us to close-reef our Topsails. In the morning and all the
forenoon had strong gales and cloudy weather, and very heavy Seas from
the South-South-West, one of which broke upon the Quarter and carried
away the Driver Boom. Wind North-West, West, and South; course North 74
degrees West; distance 97 miles; latitude 48 degrees 0 minutes South,
longitude 94 degrees 25 minutes West.

Friday, 17th. Strong Gales and Cloudy the most part of this day. Split
the Maintopsail and unbent it, and bent another. Wind South-South-West;
course North-West by West 1/2 West; distance 132 miles; latitude 46
degrees 48 minutes South, longitude 97 degrees 17 minutes West.

Saturday, 18th. Fresh gales all this day. The weather Variable, sometimes
fair and Cloudy, other times hazey, with drizzling rain. Saw some Birds
nearly as big as Albetrosses; they were all black, with Yellow Beaks.
Wind South-West by West; course North 32 degrees 30 minutes West;
distance 140 miles; latitude 44 degrees 50 minutes South, longitude 99
degrees 7 minutes West.

Sunday, 19th. First part, fresh Gales and Hazey; the Middle part, hazey,
with drizling rain; the latter, gentle breezes and fine Clear weather,
yet the Air is still Cold. Wind South-West by West to West by South;
course North-North-West 3/4 West; distance 103 miles; latitude 43 degrees
21 minutes South, longitude 100 degrees 21 minutes West.

Monday, 20th. Moderate breezes and fine weather the greater part of this
day, and the Sea very smooth. Found by repeated trials that the South
point of the Dipping Needle Dip'd 65 degrees 52 minutes below the
Horizon. Wind Westerly; course South 65 degrees West; distance 58 miles;
latitude 43 degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 101 degrees 34 minutes
West.

Tuesday, 21st. Fresh breezes and pretty Clear weather. Variation 6
degrees 30 minutes East. Wind North-West; course South 62 degrees West;
distance 115 miles; latitude 44 degrees 39 minutes South, longitude 103
degrees 54 minutes West.

Wednesday, 22nd. Hazey, rainy weather the most part of this Day. Wind
North-Westerly; course South 86 degrees West; distance 91 miles; latitude
44 degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 106 degrees 1 minute West.

Thursday, 23rd. Little wind and Calm, and some Lightning, a thing we have
not seen for some time past, and therefore suppose not common in these
Seas in high Latitudes. Variation 5 degrees 34 minutes East. Wind
North-West, calm; course North 30 degrees East; distance 13 miles;
latitude 44 degrees 35 minutes South, longitude 105 degrees 52 minutes
West.

Friday, 24th. First part, Calm; Middle, light breezes; latter, fresh
breezes and hazey. P.M. had several Azimuths, all of which gave the
Variation less than 4 degrees East, but they were a little doubtful on
account of the Rowling of the Ship. What winds we have had this day hath
been from the Eastward, and are the first we have had from that Quarter
since we left the Latitude 58 degrees 46 minutes. Wind calm,
East-North-East and East-South-East; course North 42 degrees 45 minutes
West; distance 79 miles: latitude 43 degrees 37 minutes South, longitude
107 degrees 6 minutes West.

Saturday, 25th. First and Middle parts, fresh Gales and Cloudy, with some
rain; the Latter, little Wind and Cloudy. Wind South-East by East,
South-South-East; course North 48 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 112
miles; latitude 42 degrees 23 minutes South, longitude 109 degrees 0
minutes West.

Sunday, 26th. First part, Calm and light Airs; remainder, very strong
gales and Squally, with Showers of rain, which at length brought us under
our two Courses, and close-reefed Maintopsail. Wind calm, North-West and
West-South-West; course North 26 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 88
miles; latitude 41 degrees 4 minutes South, longitude 109 degrees 52
minutes West.

Monday, 27th. First part, Strong Gales and Cloudy; the remainder, Gentle
Breezes and clear weather. P.M. set the topsail one Reef out. A large
swell from the South-West. Wind westerly; course North 18 degrees West;
distance 85 miles; latitude 39 degrees 43 minutes South, 110 degrees 26
minutes West.

Tuesday, 28th. The former part little wind and fine clear weather; the
Air full as warm as in the same Degree of North Latitude at the
Correspondent Season of the Year. The South-West swells still keep up,
notwithstanding the Gale hath been over about 30 Hours, a proof that
there is no land near in that Quarter.* (* These are instances of Cook's
observation and seamanlike perspicacity. The prevailing belief of the
time was in a great southern continent.) The remainder part of this day
fresh breezes and clear. At 9 a.m. took 3 Sets of Observations of the sun
and moon in order to find the Longitude of the Ship. Wind West to
North-West; course North 13 degrees West; distance 42 miles; latitude 39
degrees 33 minutes 30 seconds South, longitude 110 degrees 38 minutes
West.

[March 1769.]

Wednesday, March 1st. First part fresh breezes, the remainder moderate
breezes and clear weather. The result of the Forementioned Observations
gives 110 degrees 33 minutes West Longitude from Greenwich, and exactly
agrees with the Longitude given by the Log from Cape Horn. This Agreement
of the two Longitudes after a Run of 660 leagues is surprizing, and much
more than could be expected; but, as it is so, it serves to prove, as
well as the repeated trials we have made when the weather would permit,
that we have had no Current that hath Affected the Ship since we came
into these Seas. This must be a great Sign that we have been near no land
of any extent, because near land are generally found Currents. It is well
known that on the East side of the Continent in the North Sea we meet
with Currents above 100 Leagues from the Land, and even in the Middle of
the Atlantic Ocean, between Africa and America, are always found
Currents; and I can see no reason why Currents should not be found in
this Sea, supposing a Continent or lands lay not far West from us, as
some have imaggin'd, and if such land was ever seen we cannot be far from
it, as we are now 560 leagues West of the Coast of Chili.* (* These are
instances of Cook's observation and seamanlike perspicacity. The
prevailing belief of the time was in a great southern continent.) Wind
West by South; course North 76 degrees West; distance 52 miles; latitude
38 degrees 44 minutes South, longitude 111 degrees 43 minutes West; at
noon, Cape Horn South 60 degrees East 660 leagues.

Thursday, 2nd. Former part, fresh gales and hazey, with much rain; the
remainder, a Strong fresh gale and pretty clear weather. Wind Westerly;
course North by West; distance 87 miles; latitude 37 degrees 16 minutes
South, longitude 112 degrees 5 minutes West.

Friday, 3rd. First part, moderate breezes; remainder, calm and clear
weather. A.M. employed filling salt Water in the Fore Hold and airing all
the Spare Sails. Wind West, calm; course North 17 degrees East; distance
31 miles; latitude 36 degrees 49 minutes South, longitude 111 degrees 34
minutes West.

Saturday, 4th. First part, Calm; remainder, a fine genteel breeze and
clear weather. Variation per Azimuth and Amplitude this Evening 2 degrees
26 minutes East. The South-West swell still keeps up, notwithstanding it
hath been Calm 24 hours. Wind calm, North-East, North; course North 50
degrees West; distance 58 miles; latitude 36 degrees 12 minutes South,
longitude 112 degrees 50 minutes West.

Sunday, 5th. First and latter parts, fine Clear weather; the Middle,
fresh gales and Hazey, with rain. Wind North-West by North and
North-West; course South 81 degrees 40 minutes West; distance 64 miles;
latitude 36 degrees 21 minutes South, longitude 114 degrees 9 minutes
West.

Monday, 6th. Moderate breezes and Tolerable clear weather all this day.
The wind a little Variable, which caused us to Tack several Times. Wind
North-West by North to West-North-West; course South 57 degrees West;
distance 20 miles; latitude 36 degrees 32 minutes South, longitude 114
degrees 30 minutes West.

Tuesday, 7th. A Moderate steady breeze and clear weather. Wind
North-West; course South 64 degrees 15 minutes West; distance, 83 miles;
latitude 37 degrees 8 minutes South, longitude 116 degrees 8 minutes
West.

Wednesday, 8th. The first and Middle parts moderate breezes and Cloudy;
the Latter Part Variable winds and much Rain. Wind North-West, variable;
course South 78 degrees West; distance, 76 miles; latitude 37 degrees 24
minutes South, longitude 117 degrees 41 minutes West.

Thursday, 9th. First part, moderate and Hazey, with Drizling rain; the
remainder fresh breezes and clear weather. Variation 4 degrees 41 minutes
east. Wind South-West by West to South by East; course North 38 degrees
West; distance 123 miles; latitude 35 degrees 47 minutes South, longitude
119 degrees 18 minutes West.

Friday, 10th. Moderate breezes and fine Pleasant weather. Wind
South-East; course North 40 degrees West; distance 121 miles; latitude 34
degrees 14 minutes South, longitude 120 degrees 54 minutes West.

Saturday, 11th. A Steady gale and fine weather. Variation 4 degrees 12
minutes East. Wind South-East; course North 46 degrees 15 minutes West;
distance 116 miles; latitude 32 degrees 54 minutes South, longitude 122
degrees 35 minutes West.

Sunday, 12th. Ditto weather. Variation 4 degrees 12 minutes East. Put the
Ship's Company to three Watches, they having been at Watch and Watch
since our first arrival on the coast of Terra del Fuego. Wind South-East;
course North 49 degrees West; distance 122 miles; latitude 31 degrees 34
minutes South, longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes West.

Monday, 13th. First part a Steady, fresh Gale; the remainder, little wind
and fine Clear weather. Wind South-East; course North 48 degrees 15
minutes West; distance 72 miles; latitude 30 degrees 46 minutes South,
longitude 125 degrees 28 minutes West.

Tuesday, 14th. Little wind and fine Pleasant weather. At 3 p.m. took
several Observations of the sun and moon; the mean result of which gave
126 degrees 20 minutes 45 seconds, the Longitude of the Ship West of
Greenwich, and is 47 degrees Longitude West of account carried on from
Cape Horn. Wind South, East-South-East, East-North-East; course North 50
degrees West; distance 47 miles; latitude 30 degrees 17 minutes South,
longitude 126 degrees 10 minutes West.

Wednesday, 15th. Light breezes and clear weather. Variation, p.m. 3
degrees 45 minutes East, a.m. 3 degrees 22 minutes East. Saw a Tropic
Bird. Wind, East-North-East and East-South-East; course, North 47 degrees
15 minutes West; distance, 50 miles; latitude 29 degrees 43 minutes
South, longitude 126 degrees 53 minutes West.

Thursday, 16th. Light Airs next to a Calm and clear Weather. Variation by
the mean result of 21 Azimuths, 1 degree 30 minutes East. This evening
observed an Occultation of h by the [crescent],* (* h is Saturn,
[crescent] the Moon.) Immersion at ---- hours ---- minutes and Emersion
at ---- hours ---- minutes ---- seconds a.m.* (* Blanks in manuscript.)
Variation per several Azimuths 2 degrees East. Wind East-South-East,
South-South-East, South-West; course North-North-West; distance 34 miles;
latitude 29 degrees 22 minutes South, longitude 127 degrees 8 minutes
West.

Friday, 17th. Little wind and fine Pleasant weather. Variation, p.m. 3
degrees 27 minutes East. Wind, South-East by South; course, North 20
degrees West; distance, 55 miles; latitude 28 degrees 30 minutes South,
longitude 127 degrees 29 minutes West.

Saturday, 18th. First part, little wind and Cloudy; latter, fresh gales
and hard Squalls, with much rain. Took 2 Reefs in the Topsails. Wind
North-East North; course North 60 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 78
miles; latitude 27 degrees 52 minutes South, longitude 128 degrees 44
minutes West.

Sunday, 19th. First part fresh Gales and Squally, with rain; remainder
more moderate and cloudy. Variation, a.m. per Means of several Azimuths,
3 degrees 14 minutes East. Loosed the 2d reefs out of the Topsails. Wind
between the North and West; course North 52 degrees West; distance 50
miles; latitude 27 degrees 21 minutes South, longitude 129 degrees 28
minutes West.

Monday, 20th. A Fine breeze and pleasant weather. Saw several Tropic
Birds. Wind West; course North; distance 95 miles; latitude 25 degrees 44
minutes South, longitude 129 degrees 28 minutes West.

Tuesday, 21st. First part little wind, the remainder Calm. Variation, 3
degrees 43 minutes East. Saw some rock weed and a great many Tropic
Birds. Wind West by North, calm; course North; distance 23 miles;
latitude 25 degrees 21 minutes South, longitude 129 degrees 28 minutes
West.

Wednesday, 22nd. First part Calm, in the night Squally, with rain. A.M. a
fresh breeze and Cloudy. Variation per Amplitude 3 degrees 10 minutes
East. Saw some Egg Birds. Wind North by East to North-North-West; course
West; distance 57 miles; latitude 25 degrees 21 minutes South, longitude
129 degrees 52 minutes West.

Thursday, 23rd. Fresh gales and Squally, with rain, the first part;
remainder fresh Gales and Cloudy. P.M. saw some Men-of-War Birds, and Egg
Birds, and in the Morning saw more Egg Birds and Tropic Birds. The
Man-of-War and Tropic Birds are pretty well known, but the Egg Bird (as
it is called in the Dolphin's Journal) requires some discription to know
it by that Name. It is a small slender Bird of the Gull kind, and all
white, and not much unlike the small white Gulls we have in England, only
not so big.* (* Terns.) There are also Birds in Newfoundland called
Stearings that are of the same shape and Bigness, only they are of a
Greyish Colour. These Birds were called by the Dolphin Egg Birds on
account of their being like those known by that name by Sailors in the
Gulph of Florida; neither they nor the Man-of-War Birds are ever reckoned
to go very far from Land. Wind North by West to West by North: course
North 13 degrees West; distance 49 miles; latitude 24 degrees 43 minutes
South, longitude 130 degrees 8 minutes West.

[Passing Low Archipelago.]

Friday, 24th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy, with some rain in the forepart of
this day. All the forepart of these 24 hours the Sea was smooth, but at
12 at night it was more so, and about 3 in the Morning one of the people
saw, or thought he saw, a Log of Wood pass the Ship. This made us think
that we were near some land,* (* The Endeavour was now passing to the
northward of the easternmost islands of the Paumotu or Low Archipelago,
though out of sight of them.) but at daylight we saw not the least
appearance of any, and I did not think myself at liberty to spend time in
searching for what I was not sure to find, although I thought myself not
far from those Islands discovered by Quiros in 1606; and very probably we
were not, from the birds, etc., we have seen for these 2 or 3 days past.
Wind West-North-West to North-West; course North-East by North 1/4 East;
distance 99 miles; latitude 22 degrees 23 minutes South, longitude 129
degrees 2 minutes West.

Saturday, 25th. First part dark cloudy weather, with rain and a fresh
breeze of wind; remainder fair and Cloudy. Wind North-West by North, to
West by North; course North-East 1/2 North; distance 95 miles; latitude
22 degrees 11 minutes South, longitude 127 degrees 55 minutes West.

Sunday, 26th. Squally weather, with rain. At 5 p.m. saw some sea Weed
pass the Ship, and at 7 William Greenslade, Marine, either by Accident or
design, went overboard and was Drowned. The following circumstances makes
it appear as tho' it was done design'dly. He had been Centinel at the
Steerage door between 12 and 4 o'clock, where he had taken part of a Seal
Skin put under his charge, and which was found upon him. The other
Marines thought themselves hurt by one of their party commiting a crime
of this nature, and he being a raw young fellow, and, as very probable,
made him resolve upon commiting this rash Action, for the Serjeant not
being willing that it should pass over unknown to me, was about 7 o'clock
going to bring him aft and have it inquired into, when he gave him the
Slip between Decks, and was seen to go upon the Forecastle, and from that
time was seen no more. I was neither made acquainted with the Theft or
the Circumstances attending it, until the Man was gone. Wind, North-West
to West; longitude 127 degrees 43 minutes West.

Monday, 27th. Variable winds and weather, with frequent showers of rain.
At Noon saw a Bird like a Gannet. Wind variable; course North 1/4 East;
distance 30 miles; latitude 21 degrees 2 minutes South, longitude 127
degrees 38 minutes West.

Tuesday, 28th. Little wind and Cloudy. Variation per Amplitude 3 degrees
56 minutes East. Wind Easterly; course North-North-West; distance 37
miles; latitude 20 degrees 38 minutes South, longitude 127 degrees 50
minutes West.

Wednesday, 29th. Little winds and Cloudy weather. Variation per Azimuth 2
degrees 27 minutes East. Saw a Bird like a Dove and several fish about
the Ship. Employed worming the Best Br. Cable, repairing and Painting the
Boats. Wind Easterly; course North 75 degrees West; distance 50 miles;
latitude 20 degrees 14 minutes South, longitude 129 degrees 27 minutes
West.

Thursday, 30th. First part, Calm and close Cloudy weather; in the night
had Variable winds and weather, with rain. A.M. Genteel Breezes and
Cloudy weather. Between 10 and 11 a.m. took several Observations of the
sun and moon; the mean result of them gave the Longitude of the Ship at
Noon to be 127 degrees 38 minutes, and is 1 degree 49 minutes East of the
Longitude given by the Log; but on the 4th Instant the ship by
Observation was 47 minutes West of the Log, therefore she must have lost
2 degrees 36 minutes of the Log since the last Observation--an Error too
great to be accounted for. Wind calm, variable, South-South-East; course
North 40 degrees West; distance 53 miles; latitude 19 degrees 34 minutes
South, longitude 129 degrees 27 minutes West.

Friday, 31st. A Steady breeze and fine pleasant weather. A.M. took
several Observations of the sun and moon, the mean result of them came
within 8 Miles of Yesterday's Observations computed both by Mr. Green and
myself, and yet cannot think so great an error can have been committed in
the ship's run in so short a time as these observations seem to point
out, and therefore I shall abide by the Longitude given by the Log unless
from subsequent Observations this error should be found to be just. Wind
South; course North 75 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 111 miles;
latitude 19 degrees 7 minutes South, longitude 131 degrees 21 minutes
West.

[April 1769.]

Saturday, April 1st. A steady fresh Trade and fine Weather. Variation per
several Azimuths 2 degrees 32 minutes East. Wind South-East to East 1/2
North; course West; distance 122 miles; latitude 19 degrees 7 minutes
South, longitude 133 degrees 28 minutes West.

Sunday, 2nd. A fresh Trade wind and fine pleasant weather. At Noon saw a
Large flock of Birds; they had brown backs and white Bellies. They fly
and make a noise like Stearings, and are shaped like them, only something
larger. Saw likewise some black Sheerwaters and Several Man-of-War birds.
Wind East; course North 86 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 118 miles;
latitude 19 degrees 0 minutes South, longitude 135 degrees 33 minutes
West.

Monday, 3rd. First and Latter parts a steady fresh Breeze and cloudy; the
Middle, sometimes squally with rain, at other times little wind. P.M. saw
2 Birds like Albetrosses; they were all white except the Tip of their
wings and Tails. Wind East; course North 82 degrees 45 minutes West;
distance 110 miles; latitude 18 degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 137
degrees 29 minutes West.

Tuesday, 4th. A Steady fresh Trade and clear weather. At 1/2 past 10 a.m.
saw land bearing south, distance 3 or 4 Leagues. Haul'd up for it, and
soon found it to be an Island of about 2 Leagues in Circuit and of an
Oval form, with a Lagoon in the Middle, for which I named it Lagoon
Island. The Border of land Circumscribing this Lagoon is in many places
very low and narrow, particularly on the south side, where it is mostly a
Beach or Reef of rocks; it is the same on the North side in 3 places, and
these disjoins the firm land and make it appear like so many Islands
covered with wood. On the West end of the Island is a large Tree which
looks like a large Tower, and about the Middle of the Island are two
Cocoa Nutt Trees that appears above all the other wood, which as we
approached the Island looked very much like a flag. We approached the
north side of this Island within a Mile, and found no Bottom with 130
fathoms of line, nor did there appear to be Anchorage about it. We saw
several of the Inhabitants, the most of them men, and these Marched along
the shore abreast of the Ships with long Clubs in their hands as tho'
they meant to oppose our landing. They were all naked except their Privy
parts, and were of a Dark Copper Colour with long black Hair, but upon
our leaving the Island some of them were seen to put on a Covering, and
one or two we saw in the Skirts of the Wood was Cloathed in White; these
we supposed to be Women. This Island lies in the Latitude of 18 degrees
47 minutes and Longitude 139 degrees 28 minutes West from the Meridian of
Greenwich;* (* This island is Vahitahi, one of the Paumotu or Low
Archipelago.) variation 2 degrees 54 minutes East. Wind East, East by
South; course North 88 degrees West; distance 114 miles; latitude 18
degrees 42 minutes South, longitude 139 degrees 29 minutes West.

Wednesday, 5th. A fresh steady gale and fine weather. At 1 p.m. made Sail
to the Westward, and at 1/2 past 3 saw land to the North-West, which we
got up with at Sun sett and proved to be a low woody Island of a Circular
form, and not much above a Mile in Compass. This Island I called Thrum
Cap* (* Akiaki. It is inhabited.); it lies in the Latitude of 18 degrees
35 minutes South and in the Longitude of 139 degrees 48 minutes West from
Greenwich, and North 62 degrees West, 7 Leagues from Lagoon Island. We
saw no inhabitants, nor the appearance of any, and yet we were within 1/2
a Mile of the Shore. I observed by the Shore that it was near low Water,
and at Lagoon Island I observed that it was either high Water or else
there was no Ebbing and flowing of the Sea. From these Circumstances I
infer that a South by East or South Moon makes high Water. Here we caught
a King Fish, being the first fish we have got in these Seas. Wind East;
course North 77 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 79 miles; latitude 18
degrees 25 minutes South, longitude 140 degrees 51 minutes West.

Thursday, 6th. A fresh Trade and fine Pleasant weather. At 3 p.m. Saw
land to the Westward, which proved to be an Island of about 12 or 15
Leagues in Compass; is very low and entirely drown'd in the Middle,
forming there a large lake, into which there appeared to be no inlet. The
border of land and Reef surrounding this lake like a wall appeared to be
of a Bow-like figure, for which reason I named it Bow Island. The South
side, along which we sail'd, was one continued low narrow Beach or Reef
like a Causeway for 4 Leagues and upwards, and lies East by North and
West by South. The East and West Ends and North side of this Island are
wooded-in Groves, and the firm Land appeared disjoined and like a Number
of Islands, and very probably is so. The North-West parts of the Island
we only saw aCross the Lake, and not very distinct on account of its
great extent, and night coming on before we had run the whole length of
the Island. This description must be imperfect, and the whole Island may
form a Different figure to what I have here described.* (* Hao. It is a
large atoll, thirty miles in length. Cook only saw a portion of it.) The
east end lies in the Latitude of 18 degrees 23 minutes South, and
Longitude 141 degrees 12 minutes West from Greenwich. Variation 5 degrees
38 minutes East. This Island is Inhabited; we not only saw smook in
Different Parts, but people also. At Noon saw Land to the Westward. Wind
east; course North 85 degrees West; distance 94 miles; latitude 18
degrees 19 minutes South, longitude 142 degrees 29 minutes West.

Friday, 7th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy. At 1/2 past 2 p.m. got up with the
East end of the Land seen yesterday at Noon, and which proved to be an
assemblage of Islands join'd together by Reef, and extending themselves
North-West by North and South-East by South in 8 or 9 Leagues and of
various breadths; but there appeared to be a total Seperation in the
middle by a Channell of half a Mile broad, and on this account they are
called the two Groups.* (* Marokau and Ravahare. Two atolls close
together.) The South Eastermost of them lies in the Latitude of 18
degrees 12 minutes and Longitude of 142 degrees 42 minutes West from
Greenwich, and West 1/2 North distant 25 Leagues from the West end of Bow
Island. We ranged along the South-West side of this Island, and hauled
into a Bay which lies to the North-West of the Southermost point of them,
and where there appeared to be Anchorage and the Sea was smooth and not
much Surf on the Shore; but we found no ground with 100 fathoms 3/4 of a
Mile from the Shore, and nearer we did not go. Here several of the
Inhabitants assembled together with their Canoes, with a design, as we
thought, to come off to us, as they hauld one of them over the reef
seemingly for that purpose; but after waiting near 1/2 an hour, and they
not attempting to come, we bore away and made Sail, and presentley the
Canoe put off after us; but, as we did not stop, they soon went back
again. They were in all respects like those we had seen on Lagoon Island,
and Armed with Clubs and long Pikes like them. At 1/2 past 6 a.m. Saw a
small Island to the Northward, hauled our wind for it, and soon got close
in with it. It is about 3 or 4 Miles in Circuit, and very low, with a
Pond in the Middle. There is some wood upon it, but no inhabitants but
Birds, and for this reason is called Bird Island.* (* Reitoru.) It lies
in the latitude 17 degrees 48 minutes and longitude 143 degrees 35
minutes West, and West 1/2 North 10 Leagues from the West end of the two
Groups. The birds we saw were Men-of-War Birds and several other sorts.
Wind East; course North 66 degrees West; distance 66 miles; latitude 17
degrees 48 minutes South, longitude 143 degrees 31 minutes West.

Saturday, 8th. Fresh Trade and pleasant weather, but about noon had a few
flying showers of rain. Variation 6 degrees 32 minutes East. Wind East by
South and East; course North 87 degrees West; distance 100 miles;
latitude 17 degrees 43 minutes South, longitude 145 degrees 16 minutes
West.

Sunday, 9th. A steady fresh gale and pleasant weather. At 2 p.m. saw Land
to the Northward, hauld up for it, and found it to be a double range of
low woody islands joined together by reefs, by which means they make one
Island in form of an Ellipsis or Oval, in the Middle of which is a Salt
water lake. The small Islands and reefs circumscribes or bounds this lake
like a Chain; it is therefore called Chain Island.* (* Anaa.) It is in
length, North-West and South-East, about 5 Leagues, and in breadth about
5 Miles. The middle of it lies in the Latitude of 17 degrees 23 minutes
South, and Longitude 145 degrees 54 minutes West, and West by North 45
Leagues from Bird Island. Variation per Several Azimuths 4 degrees 54
minutes East. Wind East by North to North by East; course West,
Northerly; distance 81 miles; latitude 17 degrees 42 minutes South,
longitude 146 degrees 40 minutes West.

Monday, 10th. P.M. moderate breezes and cloudy; in the Night, dark,
cloudy, unsettled weather, with very much Thunder, Lightning, and rain.
A.M. little wind and fair. P.M. variation per Several Azimuths 5 degrees
41 minutes East. At 8 a.m. saw Osnaburg Island* (* Maitea, the
easternmost of the Society Islands, which are all high, and a great
contrast to the low coral atolls of the Paumotus.) (so called by Captain
Wallis, the first discoverer) bearing North-West by West, distance 4 or 5
Leagues. It is a high round Island, and appears to be not above a League
in Circuit, and when it bears as above it looks like a high Crown'd Hatt,
but when it bears North the Top is more like the roof of a House. It lies
in the Latitude of 17 degrees 48 minutes South and Longitude 148 degrees
10 minutes West, and West by South, 44 Leagues, from Chain Island. Wind
North-North-West, variable, North-West by North; course South 13 degrees
West; distance 67 miles; latitude 18 degrees 00 minutes South, longitude
147 degrees 47 minutes West; at noon, Osnaburg Island North by West 1/2
West, 5 leagues.

[Arrive at Tahiti.]

Tuesday, 11th. First part, little wind and cloudy; the remainder, little
wind and very Variable; unsettled weather, with some rain. P.M. took
several Observations of the sun and moon, which gave the Longitude of the
ship to be 148 degrees 18 minutes West, and differs but little from that
given by the Log. At 6 a.m. saw King George's Island* (* So named by
Captain Wallis. The native name was ascertained by Cook, who spelt it
Otaheite. Now known as Tahiti. It is the chief island of the Society
Group, and was annexed by the French in 1844.) Extending from West by
South 1/2 South to West by North 1/2 North. It appeared very high and
Mountainous. Wind variable; course North 66 degrees West; distance 54
miles; latitude 17 degrees 38 minutes South, longitude 148 degrees 39
minutes West; Osnaburg Island East 1/2 South, 13 leagues.

Wednesday, 12th. Variable, light Airs all these 24 Hours, and Hot sultry
weather. At 5 p.m. King George's Island extending from North-West by West
to South-West, distance 6 or 7 Leagues; and at 6 a.m. it bore from
South-South-West to West by North, being little wind with Calms. Several
of the Natives came off to us in their Canoes, but more to look at us
than anything else. We could not prevail with any of them to come on
board, and some would not come near the ship. Wind variable; course West;
distance 18 miles; latitude 17 degrees 38 minutes South, longitude 148
degrees 58 minutes West; at noon, King George's Island, from South to
West by North, 5 leagues.

Thursday, 13th. The first part Cloudy and Squally, with Showers of rain;
remainder, genteel breezes and clear weather. At 4 p.m. the North-East
point of Royal Bay West 1/2 North; run under an easy sail all night, and
had soundings from 22 to 12 fathoms 2 or 3 Miles from the Shore. At 5
a.m. made sail for the bay, and at 7 anchored in 13 fathoms.* (* Matavai
Bay.) At this time we had but very few men upon the sick list, and these
had but slite complaints. The Ship's company had in general been very
healthy, owing in a great measure to the Sour kroutt, Portable Soup and
Malt; the two first were served to the People, the one on Beef Days and
the other on Banyan Days. Wort was made of the Malt, and at the
discretion of the Surgeon given to every man that had the least simptoms
of Scurvy upon him. By this means, and the Care and Vigilance of Mr.
Monkhouse, the Surgeon, this disease was prevented from getting a footing
in the Ship. The Sour Kroutt, the Men at first would not eat it, until I
put it in practice--a method I never once Knew to fail with seamen--and
this was to have some of it dressed every day for the Cabin Table, and
permitted all the Officers, without exception, to make use of it, and
left it to the Option of the men either to take as much as they pleased
or none at all; but this practice was not continued above a Week before I
found it necessary to put every one on board to an allowance; for such
are the Tempers and disposition of Seamen in general that whatever you
give them out of the common way--altho' it be ever so much for their
good--it will not go down, and you will hear nothing but murmurings
against the Man that first invented it; but the moment they see their
superiors set a value upon it, it becomes the finest stuff in the world
and the inventor an honest fellow. Wind easterly.


CHAPTER 3. TAHITI.

REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES, ETC., AT GEORGE'S ISLAND.

[At Tahiti.]

NOTE. The way of reckoning the day in Sea Journals is from Noon to Noon,
but as the most material transaction at this Island must hapen in the Day
time, this method will be attended with ill conveniences in inserting the
transactions of each day; for this reason I shall during our stay at this
Island, but no longer, reckon the day according to the Civil account that
is to begin and end at Midnight.

We had no sooner come to an Anchor in Royal Bay, as before-mentioned,
than a great number of the Natives in their Canoes came off to the Ship
and brought with them Cocoa Nuts, etc.; these they seem'd to set a great
value upon. Amongst those that came off to the Ship was an elderly man
whose Name was Owhaa, him the Gentlemen that had been here before in the
Dolphin* (* Lieutenant Gore and Mr. Molineux, the Master.) knew and had
often spoke of as one that had been of Service to them. This man
(together with some others) I took on board and made much of, thinking
that he might on some occasions be of use to us. As our stay at this
place was not likely to be very short, I thought it very necessary that
some order should be observed in Traficking with the Natives, that such
Merchandize as we had on board for that purpose might continue to bear a
proper value, and not leave it to everyone's own particular fancy, which
could not fail to bring on Confusion and Quarrels between us and the
Natives, and would infallibly lessen the value of such Articles as we had
to trafick with. In Order to prevent this, the following rules were
ordered to be Observed; viz.:--

Rules to be observed by every person in or belonging to His Majesty's
Bark the Endeavour for the better Establishing a regular and uniform
Trade for Provisions, etc., with the Inhabitants of George's Island:--

1. To endeavour by every fair means to Cultivate a Friendship with the
Natives, and to treat them with all imaginable humanity.

2. A Proper Person or Persons will be appointed to Trade with the Natives
for all manner of Provisions, Fruits, and other Productions of the Earth;
and no Officer or Seaman or other person belonging to the Ship, excepting
such as are so appointed, shall Trade or offer to Trade for any sort of
Provisions, Fruit or other Productions of the Earth, unless they have my
leave so to do.

3. Every Person employ'd on shore on any duty whatsoever is strictly to
attend to the same, and if by neglect he looseth any of His Arms or
working Tools, or suffers them to be stole, the full value thereof will
be charged against his pay, according to the Custom of the Navy in such
Cases, and he shall receive such further punishment as the nature of the
Offence may deserve.

4. The same Penalty will be inflicted upon every person who is found to
Embezzle, Trade, or Offer to Trade with any of the Ship's Stores of what
Nature so ever.

5. No sort of Iron or anything that is made of Iron, or any sort of Cloth
or other useful or necessary Articles, are to be given in Exchange for
anything but Provisions.

J.C.

As soon as the Ship was properly secured I went on shore, accompanied by
Mr. Banks and the other Gentlemen,* (* Cook generally uses this term for
the civilians on board.) with a Party of Men under Arms; we took along
with us Owhaa--who took us to the place where the Dolphin watered, and
made signs to us as well as we could understand that we might Occupy that
ground, but it hapned not to be fit for our purpose. No one of the
Natives made the least opposition at our landing, but came to us with all
imaginable Marks of Friendship and Submission. We Afterwards made a
Circuit through the Woods, and then came on board. We did not find the
inhabitants to be numerous, and we imagin'd that several of them had fled
from their habitations upon our Arrival in the Bay.

Friday, 14th. This morning we had a great many Canoes about the Ship; the
most of them came from the Westward, and brought nothing with them but a
few Cocoa Nuts, etc. Two that appeared to be Chiefs we had on board,
together with several others, for it was a hard matter to keep them out
of the Ship, as they Climb like Munkeys; but it was still harder to keep
them from Stealing but everything that came within their reach; in this
they are Prodigious Expert. I made each of these two Chiefs a present of
a Hatchet, things that they seemed mostly to value. As soon as we had
partly got clear of these People I took 2 Boats and went to the Westward,
all the Gentlemen being along with me. My design was to see if there was
not a more commodious Harbour, and to try the disposition of the Natives,
having along with us the 2 Chiefs above mentioned; the first place we
landed at was in great Canoe Harbour (so called by Captain Wallis); here
the Natives Flocked about us in great numbers, and in as friendly a
manner as we could wish, only that they show'd a great inclination to
Pick our Pockets. We were conducted to a Chief, who for distinction sake
we called Hurcules. After staying a short time with him, and distributing
a few Presents about us, we proceeded farther, and came to a Chief who I
shall call Lycurgus; this man entertained us with broil'd fish, Cocoa
Nutts, etc., with great Hospitality, and all the time took great care to
tell us to take care of our Pockets, as a great number of People had
crowded about us. Notwithstanding the care we took, Dr. Solander and Dr.
Monkhouse had each of them their Pockets picked: the one of his spy glass
and the other of his snuff Box. As soon as Lycurgus was made acquainted
with the Theft he dispers'd the people in a moment, and the method he
made use of was to lay hold on the first thing that came in his way and
throw it at them, and happy was he or she that could get first out of his
way. He seem'd very much concern'd for what had hapned, and by way of
recompence offered us but everything that was in his House; but we
refused to accept of anything, and made signs to him that we only wanted
the things again. He had already sent people out after them, and it was
not long before they were return'd. We found the Natives very numerous
wherever we came, and from what we could judge seemed very peacably
inclin'd. About six o'Clock in the evening we return'd on board, very
well satisfied with our little Excursion.

Saturday, 15th. Winds at East during the day, in the Night a light breeze
off the land; and as I apprehend it be usual here for the Trade wind to
blow during a great part of the day from the Eastern Board, and to have
it Calm or light breezes from the land that is Southerly during the night
with fair weather, I shall only mention the wind and weather when they
deviate from this rule. This morning several of the Chiefs we had seen
Yesterday came on board, and brought with them Hogs, Bread fruit, etc.,
and for these we gave them Hatchets, Linnen, and such things as they
valued. Having not met with yesterday a more Convenient situation for
every purpose we wanted than the place we now are, I therefore, without
delay, resolved to pitch upon some spot upon the North-East point of the
Bay, properly situated for observing the Transit of Venus, and at the
same time under the command of the Ship's Guns, and there to throw up a
small fort for our defence. Accordingly I went ashore with a party of
men, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Green. We took along
with us one of Mr. Banks's Tents, and after we had fix'd upon a place fit
for our purpose we set up the Tent and marked out the ground we intended
to Occupy. By this time a number of the Natives had got collected
together about us, seemingly only to look on, as not one of them had any
weapon, either Offensive or defensive. I would suffer none to come within
the lines I had marked out, excepting one who appeared to be a chief and
old Owhaa--to these 2 men we endeavour'd to explain, as well as we could,
that we wanted that ground to Sleep upon such a number of nights and then
we should go away. Whether they understood us or no is uncertain, but no
one appeared the least displeased at what we was about; indeed the Ground
we had fixed upon was of no use to them, being part of the sandy Beach
upon the shore of the Bay, and not near to any of their Habitations. It
being too late in the day to do anything more, a party with a petty
officer was left to guard the Tent, while we with another party took a
Walk into the woods, and with us most of the natives. We had but just
crossed the River when Mr. Banks shott three Ducks at one shott, which
surprised them so much that most of them fell down as though they had
been shott likewise. I was in hopes this would have had some good effect,
but the event did not prove it, for we had not been long from the Tent
before the natives again began to gather about, and one of them more
daring than the rest pushed one of the Centinels down, snatched the
Musket out of his hand and made a push at him, and then made off, and
with him all the rest. Immediately upon this the Officer ordered the
party to fire, and the Man who took the musket was shot Dead before he
had got far from the Tent, but the musquet was carried quite off when
this hapned. I and Mr. Banks with the other party was about half a Mile
off, returning out of the woods, upon hearing the firing of Muskets, and
the Natives leaving us at the same time, we Suspected that something was
the matter and hastened our march, but before we arrived the whole was
over, and every one of the Natives fled except old Owhaa, who stuck by us
the whole time, and I believe from the first he either knew or had some
suspicion that the People would attempt something at the Tent, as he was
very much against our going into the Woods out of sight of the Tent.
However, he might have other reasons, for Mr. Hicks, being ashore the day
before, the natives would not permit him to go into the Woods. This made
me resolved to go and see whether they meant to prescribe bounds to us or
no. Old Owhaa, as I have said before, was the only one of the Natives
that stayed by us, and by his means we prevail'd on about 20 of them to
come to the Tent and there sit down with us, and Endeavour'd by every
means in our power to Convince them that the Man was kill'd for taking
away the Musket, and that we still would be friends with them. At sunset
they left us seemingly satisfied, and we struck our Tent and went on
board.

Sunday, 16th. This day worked the Ship nearer the Shore and moored her in
such a manner as to command all the shore of the North-East part of the
Bay, but more particularly the place where we intended to Erect a Fort.
Punished Richard Hutchins, seaman, with 12 lashes for disobeying
commands. Several of the Natives came down to the shore of the Bay, but
not one of them came off to the Ship during the whole day. In the evening
I went on shore with only a Boat's crew and some of the Gentlemen. The
Natives gathered about us to the Number of about 30 or 40, and brought us
Cocoa Nuts, etc., and seemed as friendly as ever.

Monday, 17th. At two o'Clock this morning, departed this life, Mr. Alex
Buchan, Landskip Draftsman to Mr. Banks, a Gentleman well skill'd in his
profession and one that will be greatly missed in the Course of this
Voyage. He had long been subject to a disorder in his Bowels, which had
more than once brought him to the very point of Death, and was at one
time subject to fits, of one of which he was taken on Saturday morning;
this brought on his former disorder, which put a Period to his life. Mr.
Banks thought it not so advisable to Inter the Body ashore in a place
where we were utter strangers to the Custom of the Natives on such
occasions; it was therefore sent out to sea and committed to that Element
with all the decency the Circumstance of the place would admit of. This
morning several of the Chiefs from the westward made us a Visit: they
brought with them Emblems of Peace, which are Young Plantain Trees. These
they put on board the Ship before they would venture themselves. They
brought us a present of 2 Hogs (an Article we find here very Scarce) and
some Bread Fruit; for these they had Hatchets and other things. In the
afternoon we set up one of the Ship's Tents ashore, and Mr. Green and
myself stay'd there the night to observe an eclipse of Jupiter's first
Satilite, which we was hinder'd from seeing by Clouds.

Tuesday, 18th. Cloudy weather with some showers of rain. This morning
took as many people out of the Ship as could possibly be spared, and set
about Erecting a Fort. Some were employ'd in throughing up intrenchment,
while others was cutting facines, Picquets, etc. The Natives were so far
from hindering us that several of them assisted in bringing the Picquets
and facines out of the woods, and seemed quite unconcern'd at what we was
about. The wood we made use of for this occasion we purchased of them,
and we cut no Tree down before we had first obtained their Consent. By
this time all the Ship's sails were unbent and the Armourer's Forge set
up to repair the Ironwork, etc. Served fresh Pork to the Ship's Company
to-day for the first time. This is like to be a very scarce Article with
us, but as to Bread fruit, Cocoa Nutts and Plaintains, the Natives supply
us with as much as we can destroy.

Wednesday, 19th. This morning Lycurgus, whose real name is
Toobouratomita, came with his family from the Westward in order, from
what we could understand, to live near us. He brought with him the cover
of a House, with several other Materials for building one. We intend to
requite the confidence this man seems to put in us by treating him with
all imaginable kindness. Got on shore some Empty Casks, which we placed
in a double row along the Bank of the River, by way of a breast work on
that side.

Thursday, 20th. Wind at South-East and Squally, with rain. All hands
employ'd on shore, and nothing remarkable, excepting a Hog weighing about
90 pound was brought alongside the Ship for Sale, but those who brought
it would not part with it for anything we could offer them but a
Carpenter's broad axe, and this was what we could not part with; they
carried it away. Thus we see those very People who but 2 years ago
prefer'd a spike Nail to an Axe of any Sort, have so far learnt the use
of them that they will not part with a Pig of 10 or 12 pounds weight for
anything under a Hatchet, and even those of an inferior or small sort are
of no great esteem with them, and small Nails such as 10 penny, 20 penny,
or any under 40 penny, are of no value at all; but beads, particularly
white cut glass beads, are much valued by them. Mr. Banks and Dr.
Solander lays ashore to-night for the first time, their Markee's being
set up within the Walls of the Fort and fit for their reception.

Friday, 21st. Got the Copper Oven ashore and fixed it in the bank of the
breastwork. Yesterday, as Mr. Green and Dr. Monkhouse were taking a walk,
they happened to meet with the Body of the Man we had shott, as the
Natives made them fully understand; the manner in which the body was
interred being a little extraordinary. I went to-day, with some others,
to see it. Close by the House wherein he resided when living was built a
small shed, but whether for the purpose or no I cannot say, for it was in
all respects like some of the Sheds or Houses they live in. This shed was
about 14 or 16 feet long, 10 or 12 broad, and of a proportionable height.
One end was wholy open, the other end and two sides was partly inclosed
with a kind of wicker'd work. In this Shed lay the Corps, upon a Bier or
frame of wood, with a matted bottom, like a Cott frame used at Sea, and
Supported by 4 Posts about 5 feet from the Ground. The body was cover'd
with a Matt, and over that a white Cloth; alongside of the Body lay a
wooden Club, one of their Weapons of War. The Head of the Corps lay next
the close end of the Shed, and at this end lay 2 Cocoa Nutt Shells, such
as they sometimes use to carry water in; at the other end of the Shed was
a Bunch of Green leaves, with some dry'd twigs tied all together and
stuck in the Ground, and a stone lying by them as big as a Cocoa Nutt.
Near to these lay a young Plaintain Tree, such as they use as Emblems of
Peace, and by it lay a stone Axe. At the open end of the Shed was stuck
upwright in the ground the Stem of a Plaintain Tree about 5 feet high, on
the Top of which stood a Cocoa Nutt shell full of fresh water, and on the
side of the post hung a small Bag, wherein was a few pieces of Bread
Fruit roasted ready for eating. Some of the pieces were fresh and others
Stale. The Natives did not seem to like that we should go near the body,
and stood at a little distance themselves while we examin'd these
matters, and appeared to be pleased when we came away. It certainly was
no very agreeable place, for it stunk intollerably, and yet it was not
above 10 yards from the Huts wherein several of the living resided. The
first day we landed we saw the Skeleton of a human being laying in this
manner under a shade that was just big enough to cover it, and some days
after that, when some of the Gentlemen went with a design to examine it
more narrowly, it was gone. It was at this time thought that this manner
of interring their Dead was not common to all ranks of People, as this
was the first we had seen Except the Skeleton just mentioned; but various
were the opinions concerning the Provisions, etc., laid about the Dead.
Upon the whole, it should seem that these people not only believe in a
Supreem being, but in a future state also, and this must be meant either
as an Offering to some Deitie or for the use of the Dead in the other
world; but this latter is not very probable, as there appeared to be no
Priest Craft in the thing, for whatever Provisions were put there it
appeared very plain to us that there it remain'd until it consumed away
of itself. It is most likely that we shall see more of this before we
leave the Island, but if it is a Religious ceremony we may not be able to
understand it, for the Misteries of most Religions are very Dark and not
easily understood, even by those who profess them.

Saturday, 22nd, to Thursday, 27th. Nothing worthy of Note Hapned. The
people were Continually at work upon the Fort,* (* Near the site of this
Fort is still a Tamarind Tree, planted by Captain Cook. All visitors to
Tahiti go to see "Cook's Tamarind.") and the Natives were so far
reconciled to us that they rather assisted us than not. This day we
mounted 6 Swivels at the Fort, which was now nearly finished. This struck
the Natives with some fear, and some fishermen who lived upon the point
moved farther off, and old Owhaa told us by signs that after 4 days we
should fire Great Guns from the Ship. There were some other Circumstances
co-operated with this man's prophecy, whether an opinion hath prevailed
amongst them that after that time we intend to fire upon them, or that
they intend to Attack us, we know not: the first we do not intend unless
the latter takes place, which is highly improbable.

Friday, 28th. This morning a great number of the natives came to us in
their Canoes from differant parts of the Island, several of whom we had
not seen before. One of these was the Woman called by the Dolphins the
Queen of this Island; she first went to Mr. Banks's tent at the fort,
where she was not known, till the Master, happening to go ashore, who
knew her, and brought her on board with 2 Men and several Women, who
seem'd to be all of her family. I made them all some presents or other,
but to Oberiea (for that is this Woman's name) I gave several things, in
return for which, as soon as I went on shore with her, she gave me a Hog
and several Bunches of plaintains. These she caused to be carried from
her Canoes up to the Fort in a kind of Procession, she and I bringing up
the rear. This Woman is about 40 years of Age, and, like most of the
other Women, very Masculine. She is head or chief of her own family or
Tribe, but to all appearance hath no Authority over the rest of the
Inhabitants, whatever she might have when the Dolphin was here. Hercules,
whose real Name is Tootaha, is, to all appearance, the Chief Man of the
Island, and hath generally visited us twice a week since we have been
here, and came always attended by a number of Canoes and people; and at
those times we were sure to have a supply, more or less, of everything
the Island afforded, both from himself and from those that came with him,
and it is a Chance thing that we get a Hog at any other time. He was with
us at this Time, and did not appear very well pleased at the Notice we
took of Oberiea.

Saturday, 29th. This day got the 4 guns out of the Hold, and Mounted 2 of
them on the Quarter Deck and the other 2 in the Fort on the Bank of the
River.

Sunday, 30th. This being the day that Owhaa told us that we should fire
our Guns, no one of us went from the Fort; however, the day passed over
without any Visible alteration in the behaviour of any one of the
Natives.

[May 1769.]

Monday, 1st May. This morning Tootaha came on board the Ship, and was
very Desireous of seeing into every Chest and Drawer that was in the
Cabin. I satisfied his curiosity so far as to open most of those that
belong'd to me. He saw several things that he took a fancy to, and
collected them together; but at last he Cast his eyes upon the Adze I had
from Mr. Stephens* (* The Secretary of the Admiralty.) that was made in
imitation of one of their Stone Adzes or Axes.* (* The stone adzes of
Tahiti were of excellent workmanship.) The Moment he lays his hands upon
it he of his own accord put away everything he had got before, and ask'd
me if I would give him that, which I very readily did, and he went away
without asking for any one thing more, which I by experience knew was a
sure sign that he was well pleased with what he had got.

This day one of the Natives, who appeared to be a Chief, dined with us,
as he had done some days before; but then there were always some Women
present, and one or another of them put the Victuals into his Mouth, but
this day there hapned to be none to Perform that Office. When he was
help'd to victuals and desir'd to eat, he sat in the Chair like a
Statute, without once attempting to put a Morsel to his mouth, and would
certainly have gone without his dinner if one of the Servants had not fed
him. We have often found the women very officious in feeding us, from
which it would seem that it is the Custom on some occasions for them to
feed the Chiefs. However, this is the only instance of that kind we have
seen, or that they could not help themselves as well as any of us.

This afternoon we set up the Observatory and took the Astronomical
Quadrant ashore for the first time, together with some other Instruments,
the fort being now finished and made as Tenantable as the time, Nature,
and situation of the Ground and Materials we had to work upon would admit
of. The North and South parts consisted of a Bank of Earth 4 1/2 feet
high on the inside, and a Ditch without, 10 feet broad and 6 feet deep;
on the West side facing the Bay a Bank of Earth 4 feet high, and
Palisades upon that, but no Ditch, the works being at high-water mark. On
the East side upon the Bank of the river was placed a double row of
Casks, and, as this was the weakest side, the 2 four Pounders were
planted there, and the whole was defended, beside these 2 Guns, with 6
Swivels, and generally about 45 Men with small Arms, including the
Officers and Gentlemen who resided ashore. I now thought myself perfectly
secure from anything these people would attempt.

Tuesday, 2nd. This morning, about 9 o'Clock, when Mr. Green and I went to
set up the Quadrant, it was not to be found. It had never been taken out
of the Packing Case (which was about 18 Inches square) since it came from
Mr. Bird, the Maker; and the whole was pretty heavy, so that it was a
matter of Astonishment to us all how it could be taken away, as a
Centinal stood the whole night within 5 Yards of the door of the Tent,
where it was put, together with several other Instruments; but none of
them was missing but this. However, it was not long before we got
information that one of the Natives had taken it away and carried it to
the Eastward. Immediately a resolution was taken to detain all the large
Canoes that were in the Bay, and to seize upon Tootaha and some others of
the principal people, and keep them in Custody until the Quadrant was
produced; but this last we did not think proper immediately to put in
Execution, as we had only Oberiea in our power, and the detaining of her
by force would have alarm'd all the rest. In the meantime, Mr. Banks (who
is always very alert upon all occasions wherein the Natives are
concern'd) and Mr. Green went into the Woods to enquire of Toobouratomita
which way and where the Quadrant was gone. I very soon was inform'd that
these 3 was gone to the Eastward in quest of it, and some time after I
followed myself with a small party of Men; but before I went away I gave
orders that if Tootaha came either to the Ship or the Fort he was not to
be detain'd, for I found he had no hand in taking away the Quadrant, and
that there was almost a Certainty of getting it again. I met Mr. Banks
and Mr. Green about 4 miles from the Fort, returning with the Quadrant.
This was about Sun set, and we all got back to the Fort about 8 o'Clock,
where I found Tootaha in Custody, and a number of the Natives crowding
about the Gate of the Fort. My going into the Woods with a party of Arm'd
men so alarmed the Natives that in the evening they began to move off
with their Effects, and a Double Canoe putting off from the Bottom of the
Bay was ohserv'd by the Ship, and a Boat sent after her. In this Canoe
hapned to be Tootaha, and as soon as our Boat came up with her, he and
all the people that were in the Canoe jump'd overboard, and he only was
taken up and brought on board the Ship, together with the Canoe; the rest
were permitted to swim to the Shore. From the Ship Tootaha was sent to
the Fort, where Mr. Hicks thought proper to detain him until I return'd.
The Scene between Toobouratomita and Tootaha, when the former came into
the Fort and found the latter in Custody, was really moving. They wept
over each other for some time. As for Tootaha, he was so far prepossessed
with the thought that he was to be kill'd that he could not be made
sencible to the Contrary till he was carried out of the Fort to the
people, many of whom Expressed their joy by embracing him; and, after
all, he would not go away until he had given us two Hogs, notwithstanding
we did all in our power to hinder him, for it is very certain that the
Treatment he had meet with from us did not merit such a reward. However,
we had it in our power to make him a present of equal value whenever we
pleased.

Wednesday, 3rd. Very early this morning Tootaha sent for the Canoe we had
detained yesterday, and in the Afternoon sent a man for an Axe and a
Shirt in return for the Hogs he gave us last night; but as this man told
us that Tootaha would not come near us himself in less than 10 days, we
thought proper not to send them, to try if he would not come himself for
them sooner.

Thursday, 4th. Some people came to the Fort to-day from York Island; one
of them gave us an account of 22 Islands lying in this Neighbourhood. Set
up the 2 Clocks; one in the Tent wherein Mr. Green and I lay, and the
other in the Observatory. This evening Tootaha sent a man again for the
Axe and Shirt, and we sent him word by the same man that Mr. Banks and I
would come and see him to-morrow and bring them along with us, for it now
became necessary that we should take some steps to reconcile this man to
us in order to procure a sufficient supply of Bread fruit, and Cocoa
Nuts, which we have not had for these 2 days past, owing, as we
apprehend, to Tootaha not being reconciled to us, or otherwise the people
take this method to shew their resentment of the Treatment their Chief
meet with.

Friday, 5th. Early this morning Tootaha sent some of his people to put us
in mind of our promise, and these seem'd very uneasy until we set out,
which Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself did about 10 o'clock in the
Pinnace, having one of these men with us. As soon as we came to Appara,
the place where Tootaha resided, we saw a great number of People at the
landing place near his House; one among them, who had a large Turban
about his Head, and a long white stick in his Hand, drove the others from
the landing place by beating them with his Stick, and throwing stones at
them, and at the same time directed us whereabouts to land. After we had
landed he conducted us to the Chief, but in this there was no order,
everyone crowded upon us crying out "Tyo Tootaha," this Tootaha was our
Friend. We found the chief setting in the shade under a large Tree, with
a Circle of old men round him; he made us set down by him, and
immediately asked for the Axe. I then gave him one, together with an
upper Garment made of Broad Cloth after their Fashion, and a Shirt. The
Garment he put on, but the Shirt he gave to the man who first received us
at landing, who was now seated by us, and the Chief seemed desirous that
we should take particular notice of him. By that Time Obaria, and several
other women whom we knew, came and sat down by us. Tootaha did not stay
long before he went away, as we thought to show himself to the people in
his new Dress. He was not gone long before he return'd and took his seat
again for a few minutes, then went away again, as we was told, to order
something to be got for us to Eat, and at this time we gladly would have
gone too, being almost Suffocated with the Crowd that was about us.
However, here we remained for about 10 Minutes longer, when word was
brought us that the Chief wanted us. We were then conducted to our own
Boat, where we found him setting alone under the Awning. He made signs to
us to come to him, which we did, and as many with us as the Boat would
hold. Here he ordered some Bread fruit and Cocoa Nut to be brought, of
both of which we tasted.

After we had set here sometime, a Message was brought to the Chief, who
immediately went out of the Boat, and we was desired to follow, and was
conducted to a large Aria or Court Yard on one side of his House, where
we were entertained with Public wrestling. Tootaha seated himself at one
end of the place, and several of his Principal men sat round him in a
Semicircle. We were desir'd to sit down here likewise, but we rather
chose to walk about. Everything being now ready, several men entered the
Theater, 8, 10, or 12, sometimes more. These walked about in a Stooping
Poster, with their left hand upon their right breast, and with their
Right hand Open struck with a smack their left Arm and fore-arm. In this
manner they walked about until one Challenged another, which was done by
motion and jesture, without speaking one word. The 2 Antagonists would
then meet and endeavour to seize each other by the thighs, but if that
fail'd they would seize each other by the Hair of the Head or wherever
they could, and then Wrestle together until by main Strength the one or
the other was thrown on his back. This was always (Except once) followed
by three Huzzas from some old men who sat in the House, and at the same
time another Company of men would dance for about a Minute, the Wrestlers
all the time continuing their game without taking the least notice of
anything else. The only dexterity the Wrestlers seemed to make use of was
in first seizing each other, for after they had closed it was all decided
by Main strength. It would sometimes happen that neither the one nor the
other could throw his Antagonist; in this Case they would either part by
mutual consent or were parted by others. The Conqueror never exulted over
the Conquer'd, neither did the Conquer'd ever repine at his ill luck, but
the whole was carried on with great good Humour. There were present,
Young and old, near 500 People. The women do not seem to partake of this
diversion, only some few of the Principal ones were present, and that
appeared to be owing to us being there.

After this was over we were given to understand that we were to go to
Dinner, and were desired to follow Tootaha, who led us into our own Boat,
and soon after came a small Pig ready roasted, with some Bread Fruit and
Cocoa Nuts. Here we thought we were to have dined, but Tootaha, after
waiting about 10 Minutes, made signs to us to put off the Boat and go a
Board, which we did, and bring him and Toobouratomida along with us. As
soon as we got on board we all dined on the Cheer the Chief had provided.
We soon found the good effects of having made friends with this man, for
it was no sooner known to the Natives that he was on board the Ship than
they brought Bread Fruit, Cocoa Nuts, etc., to the Fort.

Saturday, 6th; Sunday, 7th. Nothing remarkable, only that the Natives
supply us with as much bread fruits and Cocoa Nuts as we can destroy.

Monday, 8th. Early this morning the Master went to the Eastward in the
Pinnace to try if he could procure some Hogs and Fowls from that Quarter;
but he return'd in the evening without success. He saw but very few, and
those the inhabitants pretended belonged to Tootaha; so great is this
man's influence or authority over them that they dare part with nothing
without his Consent, or otherwise they use his Name to Excuse themselves
from parting with the few they have, for it is very certain these things
are in no great plenty with them.

Tuesday, 9th; Wednesday, 10th; Thursday, 11th. Nothing remarkable hapned
for these three days. Oberiea, the Dolphin's queen, made us a Visit for
the first time since the Quadrant was Stolen. She introduced herself with
a Small Pig, for which she had a Hatchet, and as soon as she got it she
Lugg'd out a Broken Axe, and several pieces of Old Iron. These, I
believe, she must have had from the Dolphin; the Axe she wanted to be
mended, and Axes made of the old iron. I obliged her in the first, but
excused myself in the latter: since the Natives had seen the Forge at
work they have frequently brought pieces of Iron to be made into one sort
of Tool or other, which hath generally been done whenever it did not
hinder our own work--being willing to Oblige them in everything in my
power. These Pieces of old Iron the Natives must have got from the
Dolphin, as we know of no other Ship being here;* (* M. de Bougainville,
in the French ships La Boudeuse and L'Etoile, had visited Tahiti the year
before, after its discovery by the Dolphin. He was unfortunate in his
choice of anchorage, and his ships lost anchors and got into various
difficulties. The crews were also much afflicted with scurvy.) and very
probable some from us, for there is no species of Theft they will not
commit to get this Article, and I may say the same of the common Seamen
when in these parts.

Friday, 12th. Cloudy weather with Showers of rain. This morning a Man and
2 Young Women, with some others, came to the Fort, whom we had not seen
before, and as their manner of introducing themselves was a little
uncommon, I shall insert it. Mr. Banks was as usual at the gate of the
Fort trading with the people, when he was told that some Strangers were
coming, and therefore stood to receive them. The Company had with them
about a Dozen young Plantain Trees, and some other small Plants, these
they laid down about 20 feet from Mr. Banks; the people then made a Lane
between him and them. When this was done the Man (who appeared to be only
a Servant to the two Women) brought the young Plantains singly, together
with some of the other plants, and gave them to Mr. Banks, and at the
delivery of each pronounced a Short sentence which we understood not.
After he had thus disposed of all his plantain trees, he took several
pieces of Cloth and spread them on the ground. One of the Young women
then stepp'd upon the Cloth, and with as much innocency as one could
possibly conceive, exposed herself, entirely naked, from the waist
downwards; in this manner she turn'd herself once or twice round, I am
not certain which, then stepped off the cloth, and dropp'd down her
Cloaths. More Cloth was then spread upon the former, and she again
performed the same Ceremony. The Cloth was then rowled up and given to
Mr. Banks, and the two Young women went and Embraced him, which ended the
Ceremony.

Saturday, 13th. Nothing worthy of Note hapned during the day; in the
Night one of the Natives attempted to get into the Fort by Climbing over
the Wall, but, being discovered by the Centinel, he made off. The Iron
and Iron Tools daily in use at the Armourer's Forge are Temptations that
these people cannot possibly withstand.

Sunday, 14th. This day we performed divine Service in one of the Tents in
the fort, where several of the Natives attended and behaved with great
decency the whole time. This day closed with an odd sceen at the Gate of
the Fort, where a young Fellow above 6 feet high made love to a little
Girl about 10 or 12 years of Age publickly before several of our people
and a number of the Natives. What makes me mention this is because it
appear'd to be done according to Custom, for there were several women
present, particularly Obariea and several others of the better sort, and
these were so far from showing the least disapprobation that they
instructed the Girl how she should Act her part, who, young as she was,
did not seem to want it.

Monday, 15th. Winds variable and cloudy weather. Last Night one of our
Water Casks was taken away from the outside of the Fort, where they stood
full of water. In the morning there was not one of the Natives but what
knew it was gone; yet, Contrary to what we had always met with on these
Occasions, not one of them would give us any information about it, and I
thought it of too little Consequence to take any methods to Oblige them.
In the evening Toobouratomida and his Wife, and a Man belonging to
Tootaha, would needs lay all Night by the Casks to prevent any more from
being taken away; but, as we had placed a Centinel there, this care of
theirs became unnecessary, and they were prevailed upon to go home; but
before they went away they made signs to the Centinel to keep his Eyes
open. From this it should seem that they knew that an attempt would be
made in the night to take away more, which would have been done had not
the Centinel prevented it.

Tuesday, 16th. Winds Westerly. The morning cloudy, with heavy showers of
rain; the Remainder of the day fair weather. From this day nothing
remarkable hapned until

Monday, 22nd, which was usher'd in with thick Cloudy weather, and
Excessive hard Showers of rain and very much Thunder and Lightning, which
Continued the Greater part of the day.

Tuesday, 23rd. Wind Southerly and fair weather in the Forenoon, but in
the Afternoon Showers. We have had a Scarcity of all sorts of Fruit for
these 2 days past, which we immagine to be owing to the Wet weather.

Wednesday, 24th. Fine clear weather all this day. Having found the Long
boat Leakey for these few days past, we hauld her ashore to-day to stop
the leakes, when, to our great surprise, we found her bottom so much
Eaten by the Worms that it was necessary to give her a new one, and all
the Carpenters were immediately set to work upon her.

Thursday, 25th. Most part of these 24 hours Cloudy, with frequent Showers
of Rain.

Friday, 26th. Some flying showers again. This morning we hauled the
pinnace a Shore to examine her bottom, and had the Satisfaction to find
that not one worm had touched it, notwithstanding she hath been in the
water nearly as long as the Long Boat. This must be owing to the White
Lead with which her bottom is painted, the Long boats being paid with
Varnish of Pine, for no other reason can be assign'd why the one should
be preserved and the other destroy'd, when they are both built on the
Same sort of Wood and have been in equal use. From this Circumstance
alone the Bottom of all Boats sent into Countrys where these worms are
ought to be painted with White Lead, and the Ships supply'd with a good
stock in order to give them a New Coat whenever it's necessary. By this
means they would be preserved free from these destructive Vermin. The
Long boat's Bottom being so much destroy'd appear'd a little
extraordinary, as the Dolphin's Launch was in the Water at this very
place full as long, and no such thing happened to her, as the Officers
that were in the Dolphin say.

Saturday, 27th. Winds variable and fair weather.

Sunday, 28th. Winds Southerly and clear weather. This morning myself, Mr.
Banks, and Dr. Solander set out in the Pinnace to pay Tootaha a Visit,
who had moved from Apparra to the South-West part of the island. What
induced us to make him this visit was a Message we had received from him
some days ago importing that if we would go to him he would give us
several Hogs. We had no great faith in this, yet we were resolved to try,
and set out accordingly. It was Night before we reached the place where
he was, and, as we had left the Boat about half-way behind us, we were
obliged to take up our Quarters with him for the Night. The Chief
received us in a Friendly manner, and a Pig was ordered to be killed and
dressed for Supper; but we saved his Life for the present, thinking it
would do us more service in another place, and we supped on Fruit and
what else we could get. Here was, along with the Chief, Obariea and many
more that we knowd. They all seem'd to be travellers like ourselves, for
neither the Canoes they had along with them, nor the Houses where they
were, were sufficient to contain the one half of them. We were in all Six
of us, and after supper began to look out for Lodgings. Mr. Banks went to
one place, Dr. Solander to another, while I and the other 3 went to a
third. We all of us took as much care of the little we had about us as
possible, knowing very well what sort of People we were among; yet,
notwithstanding all the care we took, before 12 o'clock the most of us
had lost something or other. For my own part I had my Stockings taken
from under my head, and yet I am certain that I was not a Sleep the whole
time. Obariea took charge of Mr. Banks's things, and yet they were stol'n
from her, as she pretended. Tootaha was acquainted with what had hapned,
I believe by Obariea herself, and both him and her made some stir about
it; but this was all meer shew, and ended in nothing. A little time after
this Tootaha came to the Hutt where I and those that were with me lay,
and entertain'd us with a Consort of Musick consisting of 3 Drums, 4
Flutes, and Singing. This lasted about an Hour, and then they retir'd.
The Music and Singing was so much of a piece that I was very glad when it
was over. We stay'd with them till near noon the next day in hopes of
getting some of our things again, and likewise some Hogs; but we were at
last obliged to come away with the one we had saved out of the Fire last
Night, and a promise from Tootaha that he would come to the Ship in a Day
or two with more, and bring with him the things that are lost, a promise
we had no reason to expect he would fulfill. Thus ended our Visit, and we
got to the Fort late in the evening.

Tuesday, 30th. We are now very buisey in preparing our Instruments, etc.,
for the Observations, and Instructing such Gentlemen in the use of them,
as I intend to send to other parts to observe, for fear we should fail
here.

Wednesday, 31st. Late this Evening the Carpenters finished the Long boat.

[June 1769.]

Thursday, June 1st. This day I sent Lieutenant Gore in the Long boat to
York Island* (* Eimeo, westward of, and near to Tahiti.) with Dr.
Monkhouse and Mr. Sporing (a Gentleman belonging to Mr. Banks) to Observe
the Transit of Venus, Mr. Green having furnished them with Instruments
for that purpose. Mr. Banks and some of the Natives of this Island went
along with them.

Friday, 2nd. Very early this morning Lieutenant Hicks, Mr. Clark, Mr.
Pickersgill and Mr. Saunders went away in the Pinnace to the Eastward,
with orders to fix upon some Convenient situation upon this Island, and
there to Observe the Transit of Venus, they being likewise provided with
Instruments for that purpose.

Saturday, 3rd. This day proved as favourable to our purpose as we could
wish. Not a Cloud was to be seen the whole day, and the Air was perfectly
Clear, so that we had every advantage we could desire in observing the
whole of the Passage of the planet Venus over the Sun's Disk. We very
distinctly saw an Atmosphere or Dusky shade round the body of the planet,
which very much disturbed the times of the Contact, particularly the two
internal ones. Dr. Solander observed as well as Mr. Green and myself, and
we differ'd from one another in Observing the times of the Contact much
more than could be expected. Mr. Green's Telescope and mine where of the
same Magnifying power, but that of the Doctor was greater than ours. It
was nearly calm the whole day, and the Thermometer Exposed to the Sun
about the Middle of the day rose to a degree of heat we have not before
met with.

Sunday, 4th. Punished Archd. Wolf with 2 Dozen lashes for Theft, having
broken into one of the Storerooms and stol'n from thence a large quantity
of Spike Nails; some few of them where found upon him. This evening the
Gentlemen that were sent to observe the Transit of Venus, return'd with
success; those that were sent to York Island were well received by the
Natives. That Island appear'd to them not to be very fruitful.

Monday, 5th. Got some of the Bread ashore out of the Bread Room to dry
and Clean. Yesterday being His Majesty's birthday, we kept it to-day and
had several of the Chiefs to dine with us.

Tuesday, 6th. This day and for some days past we have been informd by
several of the Natives that about 10 or 15 months ago Two Ships touched
at this Island and stayed 10 days in a Harbour to the Eastward, called
Ohidea, the Commander's name was Tootteraso,* (* M. de Bougainville, who
laid at Hitiaa from April 6th to April 16th, 1768.)--so at least the
Natives call him--and that one of the Natives, Brother to the Chief of
Ohidea, went away with him. They likewise say these ships brought the
venerial distemper to this Island, where it is now as Common as in any
part of the world, and which the people bear with as little concern as if
they have been accustom'd to it for Ages past. We had not been here many
days before some of our People got this disease, and as no such thing
hapned to any of the Dolphin's people while she was here, that I ever
heard of, I had reason (notwithstanding the improbability of the thing)
to think that we had brought it along with us, which gave me no small
uneasiness, and did all in my power to prevent its progress, but all I
could do was to little purpose, as I was obliged to have the most part of
the Ship's Company ashore every day to work upon the Fort, and a Strong
Guard every Night; and the Women were so very liberal with their
favours--or else Nails, Shirts, etc., were temptations that they could
not withstand, that this distemper very soon spread itself over the
greatest part of the Ship's company, but now I have the satisfaction to
find that the Natives all agree that we did not bring it here.

We have several times seen Iron tools and other Articles with these
people that we suspected came not from the Dolphin, and these they now
say they had from these two Ships.

Wednesday, 7th; Thursday, 8th; Friday, 9th. These three days we have been
employ'd in Careening both sides of the Ship, and paying them with Pitch
and Brimstone. We found her Bottom in good order, and that the worm had
not got into it.

Saturday, 10th. Wind Variable, with very much rain all day and last
night.

Sunday, 11th. Cloudy, with rain last night and this morning; the
remainder of the day fair weather. This day Mr. Banks and I took
Toobouratomita on board the Ship and shew'd him the print containing the
Colours worne by the ships of Diffrent Nations, and very soon made him
understand that we wanted to know which of them was worn by the ships
that were at Ohidea. He at once pitched upon the Spanish Flag and would
by no means admit of any other; this, together with several Articles we
have lately seen amongst these people, such as Jackets, Shirts, etc.,
usually worn by Spanish Seamen, proves beyond doubt that they must have
been Ships of that Nation, and come from some Port on the Coast of South
America.* (* This was of course a mistake, as the ships were French.)

Monday, 12th. Yesterday Complaint was made to me by some of the Natives
that John Thurman and James Nicholson, Seamen, had taken by force from
them several Bows and Arrows and plaited Hair, and the fact being proved
upon them they were this day punished with 2 dozen lashes each.

Tuesday, 13th. Some Showers of rain last night, but fair weather the most
part of the day. Tootaha, whom we have not seen for some time past, paid
us a Visit to-Day. He brought with him a Hog and some Bread Fruit, for
which he was well paid.

Wednesday, 14th. Between 2 and 4 o'clock this morning, one of the Natives
stole out of the Fort an Iron rake, made use of for the Oven. It hapned
to be set up against the Wall, and by that means was Visible from the
outside, and had been seen by them in the evening, as a man had been seen
lurking about the Fort some Hours before the thing was Missed. I was
informed by some others of the Natives that he watch'd an opportunity
when the Centinel's back was turned, he hooked it with a long crooked
stick, and haled it over the Wall. When I came to be informed of this
theft in the Morning I resolved to recover it by some Means or other, and
accordingly went and took possession of all the Canoes of any value I
could meet with, and brought them into the River behind the Fort to the
number of 22, and told the Natives then present (most of them being the
owners of the Canoes) that unless the principal things they had stol'n
from us were restored I would burn them every one: not that I ever
intended to put this in execution, and yet I was very much displeased
with them, as they were daily committing, or attempting to commit, one
theft or other, when at the same time--contrary to the opinion of
everybody, I would not suffer them to be fir'd upon, for this would have
been putting it in the power of the Centinels to have fir'd upon them
upon the most slitest occasions, as I had before experienced. And I have
a great Objection to firing with powder only amongst People who know not
the difference, for by this they would learn to despise fire Arms and
think their own Arms superior, and if ever such an Opinion prevailed they
would certainly attack you, the Event of which might prove as
unfavourable to you as them. About Noon the rake was restored us, when
they wanted to have their Canoes again; but now, as I had them in my
possession, I was resolved to try if they would not redeem them by
restoring what they had stol'n from us before. The Principal things which
we had lost was the Marine Musquet, a pair of Pistols belonging to Mr.
Banks, a Sword belonging to one of the Petty Officers, and a Water Cask,
with some other Articles not worth mentioning. Some said that these
things were not in the Island, others that Tootaha had them, and those of
Tootaha's friends laid the whole to Obariea, and I believe the whole was
between these two persons.

Thursday, 15th. We have been employed for some Days past in overhauling
all the Sea Provisions, and stowing such as we found in a State of decay
to hand, in order to be first expended; but having the people divided
between the Ship and the Shore, this work, as well as refitting the Ship,
goes on but slowly.

Friday, 16th; Saturday, 17th. Variable winds, with Showers of rain and
Cloudy weather.

Sunday, 18th. Variable winds and Clear weather. This Night was observed
the Moon totally Eclipsed.

Monday, 19th. Punished James Tunley with 12 lashes for taking Rum out of
the Cask on the Quarter Deck.

Tuesday, 20th. Got all the Powder aShore to Air, all of which we found in
a bad Condition, and the Gunner informs me that it was very little better
when it came first on board. Last Night Obariea made us a visit, whom we
have not seen for some time. We were told of her coming, and that she
would bring with her some of the Stol'n things, which we gave Credit to
because we know'd several of them were in her possession; but we were
surprised to find this Woman put herself wholy in our power, and not
bring with her one Article of what we had lost. The Excuse she made was
that her Gallant, a man that used to be along with her, did Steal them,
and she had beat him and turned him away, but she was so Sencible of her
own Guilt that she was ready to drop down through fear, and yet she had
resolution Enough to insist upon Sleeping in Mr. Banks's Tent all Night,
and was with difficulty prevailed upon to go to her canoe, altho no one
took the least notice of her. In the morning she brought her Canoe, with
everything she had, to the Gate of the Fort, after which we could not
help admiring her for her Courage and the Confidence she seem'd to place
in us, and thought that we could do no less than to receive her into
favour, and except the Present she had brought us, which consisted of a
Hog, a Dog, some Bread Fruit and Plantains.

We refused to Except of the Dog, as being an Animal we had no use for; at
which she seemed a little surprised, and told us it was very good eating,
and we very soon had an opportunity to find that it was so, for Mr.
Banks, having bought a Basket of Fruit in which was the Thigh of a Dog
ready dressed, of this several of us tasted, and found that it was Meat
not to be despised, and therefore took Obariea's Dog and had him
immediately dressed by some of the Natives in the following manner: They
first made a hole in the Ground about a foot Deep, in which they made a
fire and heated some small Stones. While this was doing the Dog was
strangled and the hair got off by laying him frequently on the fire, and
as clean as if it had been scalded off with hot water. His Intrails was
taken out, and the whole washed Clean, and as soon as the Stones and Hole
was sufficiently heated the fire was put out and part of the Stones were
left in the bottom of the hole. Upon these stones were laid green leafs,
and upon them the Dog, together with the Intrails, these were likewise
covered with leaves, and over them hot stones; and then the hole was
close cover'd with mould. After he had laid here about 4 Hours, the Oven
(for so I must call it) was op'ned, and the dog taken out, whole and well
done, and it was the Opinion of every one who tasted it that they never
eat sweater Meat, therefore we resolved for the future never to dispise
Dog's flesh. It is in this manner that the Natives dress and Bake all
their Victuals that require it--Flesh, fish, and Fruit. I now gave over
all thoughts of recovering any of the things the Natives had stol'n from
us, and therefore intend to give them up their Canoes whenever they apply
for them.

Wednesday, 21st. Employed drying the Powder, or getting on board Wood,
Water, etc. Confined Robert Anderson, Seaman, for refusing to obey the
orders of the Mate when at work in the Hold. This morning a Chief, whose
Name is Oamo, and one we had not seen before, came to the Fort. There
came with him a Boy about 7 Years of Age and a Young Woman of about 18 or
20. At the Time of their coming Obariea and several others were in the
fort. They went out to meet them, having first uncovered their Heads and
Bodies as low as their Waists; and the same thing was done by all those
that were on the outside of the Fort. As we looked upon this as a
Ceremonial respect, and had not seen it paid to any one before, we
thought that this Oamo must be some extraordinary person, and wondered to
see so little notice taken of him after the Ceremony was over. The Young
woman that came along with him could not be prevailed upon to come into
the Fort, and the Boy was Carried upon a Man's back, altho' he was as
able to walk as the Man who carried him. This Lead us to inquire who they
were; and we was informed that the Boy was Heir Apparent to the
Sovereignty of the Island, and the Young Woman was his Sister, and as
such the respect was paid them which was due to no one else except the
Arreedehi, which was not Tootaha, from what we could learn, but some
other person who we had not seen, or like to do, for they say that he is
no Friend of ours, and therefore will not come near us. The Young Boy
above mentioned is son to Oamo by Obariea, but Oamo and Obariea do not at
this time live together as Man and Wife, he not being able to endure with
her troublesome disposition. I mention this because it shows that
seperation in the Marriage state is not unknown to these people.* (* See
note Notes on Tahiti below.)

Thursday, 22nd. This morning I released Robert Anderson from Confinement
at the intercession of the Master and a promise of behaving better for
the future.

Friday, 23rd. This morning Emanuel Parreyra, a Portugue, was Missing, and
I had some reason to think that he was gone with an intent to stay here.
It was not long before I was informed that he was at Apparra with
Tootaha. The Man who gave us this information was one of Tootaha's
Servants. He was Offer'd a Hatchet if he would go to Apparra and bring
him to us. This was perhaps the very thing he came for, for he
immediately set out and return'd with the Man in the Evening. The man
said in his defence that as he was going to the Boat to go on board last
night, he was taken away by force by 3 Men, and upon enquiring farther
into this matter I found it to be so, and that Tootaha wanted to have
kept him, only that he was perswaided to the contrary, or perhaps he
thought that the Hatchet he would get by returning him would do him more
service than the Man.

Saturday, 24th, Sunday, 25th. Nothing remarkable.

[Tahiti: Expedition round Island.]

Monday, 26th. Very early this morning I set out in the pinnace,
accompanied by Mr. Banks, with an intent to make the Circuit of the
Island in order to Examine and draw a Sketch of the Coast and Harbours
thereof. We took our rout to the Eastward, and this night reached the
Isthmus, which is a low neck of Land running across the Island, which
divides it into two districts or Governments wholly independent of each
other as we was informed. The first thing we saw which struck our
attention in this day's rout was a small Pig that had not been roasted
above a Day or 2 laid upon one of their Altars near to a place where lay
the Body or Bones of a Dead Person. This Pig must have been put their as
an offering to their God, but on what account we know not. The Coast from
Royal Bay trends East by South and East-South-East 10 miles South by East
and South 11 miles to the Isthmus. In the first direction the Shore is
mostly open to the Sea, but in the last it is cover'd by reefs of rocks;
these forms several good Harbours, wherein are safe Anchorage for
Shipping in 16, 18, 20, and 24 fathoms, with other Conveniences. It was
in one of these Harbours the Spanish Ships before mentioned lay; the
Natives shew'd us the place where they Pitched their Tent and the Brook
they water'd at, otherways there was not the least signs of Shipping
having been there.

Tuesday, 27th. Winds Easterly and fine weather. It was late last night
before we reached the Isthmus, and all the Observations I could make this
morning was that it appeared to be a Marshey flatt of about 2 miles in
Extent aCross which the Natives Haul their Canoes partly by land and
partly by water. From the Isthmus the land trends East Southerly near 3
Leagues, to the South-East point of the Great Bay which lies before the
Isthmus. On the west side of this point is a Bay called Ohitepepa, which
is in many respects similar to Royal Bay, and is situated in every bit as
fertile and populous part of the Island. There are other places formed by
the Reefs that lay along the Shore between this and the Isthmus, where
Shipping can lay in perfect security. The Land then trends South-East and
South to the South-East part of the Island, which is near 3 Leagues, and
covered all the way by a Reef of Rocks, but no Harbour. We took up our
Quarters at the East part of the Island, being conducted thither by a
Young Chief we had Often seen on board the Ship, and the next morning
proceeded round the South-East point of the Island, part of which is not
cover'd by any reef, but lies wholy open to the Sea and here the Hills
rise directly from the Shore. At the Southernmost part of the Island the
Shore is again cover'd by a Reef, and there forms a very good Harbour,
and the land about it very fertile. At this place we saw a Goose and a
Turkey left at Royal Bay by the Dolphin; they were in possession of a
Chief who came along with us in the Boat, and remain'd with us the
remainder of the day, and conducted us over the Shoals we here meet with;
and for this piece of service we lent him a Cloak to Sleep in in the
night, but we had not been laid down above 10 minutes before he thought
proper to move off with it, but both Mr. Banks and I pursued him so close
that he was obliged to relinquish his prize, and we saw no more of him.
When we returned to our Lodging we found the House, in which were not
less than 2 or 300 people when we went away, intirely deserted, so that
we had one of the Largest and best houses on the Island wholy to
ourselves; but when they found that we meant them no harm the Chief and
his Wife with some others came and Slept by us the remainder of the
night. This place is situated on the South-West side of Tiarreboo,* (*
Taiarapu.) the South-East district of the Island, and about 5 miles
South-East from the Isthmus. Here is a large, safe, and Commodious
Harbour, inferior to none on the whole Island, and the land about it Rich
in Produce. We found that the people of this district had had little or
no communication with us, yet we was everywhere well received by them. We
found all this part of the Island very fertile and the Natives numerous,
and had a great many large Double Canoes built and Ornamented uniformly.
They were all halled ashore, and appeared to be going to decay for want
of use. Their Mories or Burial places stood generally upon these points
of land that projected into the Sea, and were both better built and
Ornamented than those about Royal Bay--Tootaha's excepted. In general
this district appear'd to be in a more flourishing state than the other,
although it is not above one fourth part as big and cannot contain
nothing near the Number of inhabitants.

Thursday, 29th. Squally weather with Showers of rain. This morning we
left Tiaraboo and entered upon that of Opooreonoo, the North-West
district of the Island. The first thing we met with worthy of note was at
one of their Mories, where lay the scull bones of 26 Hogs and 6 Dogs.
These all lay near to and under one of their Altars. These Animals must
have been offer'd as a Sacrifice to their Gods either all at once or at
different times, but on what account we could not learn. The next day we
met with an Effigy or Figure of a Man made of Basket work and covered
with white and Black feathers placed in such order as to represent the
Colour of their Hair and Skins when Tattow'd or painted. It was 7 1/2
feet high and the whole made in due proportion; on its head were 4 Nobs
not unlike the stumps of Large Horns--3 stood in front and one behind. We
were not able to learn what use they made of this Monster; it did not at
all appear to us that they paid it the least Homage as a God: they were
not the least Scrupulous of letting us examine every part of it. I am
inclinable to think that it is only used by way of diversion at their
Hevas or public entertainments, as Punch is in a Puppet show.* (* Note by
Cook in Admiralty copy: "Tupia informs us that this is a representation
of one of the Second rank of Eatuas or Gods, called Mauwi, who inhabited
the Earth upon the Creation of man. He is represented as an immense Giant
who had seven heads, and was indued with immense strength and abilities.
Many absurd stories are told of his Feats by Tupia.") We next passed
through a Harbour, which is the only one on the south side of Opooreonoo
fit for Shipping. It is situated about 5 Miles to the Westward of the
Isthmus between 2 Small Islands that lay near the shore and a Mile from
each other. In this Harbour is 11 and 12 fathoms of water and good
Anchorage. About a League and a half to the Westward of this Harbour is
the Morie of Oamo or Oberia, for some told us it belong'd to the one and
some to the other; it far Exceeds every thing of this Kind upon the whole
Island. It is a long square of Stonework built Pyramidically; its base is
267 feet by 87 feet; at the Top it is 250 feet by 8 feet. It is built in
the same manner as we do steps leading up to a Sun Dial or fountain
erected in the Middle of a Square where there is a flite of steps on each
side. In this building there are 11 of such steps; each step is about 4
feet in height and the breadth 4 feet 7 inches, but they decreased both
in height and breadth from the bottom to the Top. On the middle of the
Top stood the Image of a Bird carved in Wood, near it lay the broken one
of a Fish carved in stone. There was no hollow or Cavity in the inside,
the whole being fill'd up with stones. The outside was faced partly with
hewn stones and partly with others, and these were placed in such a
manner as to look very agreeable to the Eye. Some of the hewn stones were
4 feet 7 inches by 2 feet 4 inches and 15 inches thick, and had been
squared and Polished with some sort of an Edge Tool. On the East side was
enclosed with a stone wall a piece of ground in form of a square, 360
feet by 354, in this was growing several Cypress trees and Plantains.
Round about this Morie was several smaller ones all going to decay, and
on the Beach between them and the Sea lay scatter'd up and down a great
quantity of human bones. Not far from the Great Morie was 2 or 3 pretty
large Altars, where lay the Scull bones of some Hogs and dogs. This
Monument stands on the south side of Opooreonoo, upon a low point of land
about 100 Yards from the Sea.* (* On map Morai-no te Oamo.) It appeared
to have been built many Years, and was in a State of decay, as most of
their Mories are. From this it would seem that this Island hath been in a
more Flourishing state than it is at present, or that Religious Customs
are (like most other Nations) by these people less observed. We took up
our Quarters near this Morie for the night, and early in the Morning
proceeded on our rout, and without meeting with anything remarkable, got
on board the Ship on Saturday, the 1st of July, having made the Circuit
of the whole Island, which I Estimated at something more than 30
Leagues.* (* A remarkably close estimate.) The Plan or Sketch which I
have drawn, altho' it cannot be very accurate, yet it will be found
sufficient to point out the Situation of the different Bays and Harbours
and the true figure of the Island, and I believe is without any Material
error. For the first 2 or 3 days we was out upon this excursion we
labour'd under some difficulty for want of Provisions--particularly
bread--an Article we took but little of with us--not doubting that we
should get bread fruit, more than sufficient for a Boat's Crew at every
place we went to, but, on the Contrary, we found the season for that
fruit wholy over, and not one to be seen on the Trees, and all other
fruit and roots were scarce. The Natives live now on Sour paist--which is
made from bread fruit--and some bread fruit and plantains that they get
from the Mountains where the season is Later, and on a Nut not unlike a
chessnut which are now in Perfection; but all these Articles are at
present very scarce, and therefore it is no wonder that the Natives have
not supply'd us with these things of Late. [At Tahiti.] Upon my return to
the Ship I found that the Provisions had been all examined and the Water
got on board, amounting to 65 Tons. I now determind to get everything off
from the Shore and leave the Place as soon as possible. The getting the
several Articles on board, and Scraping and paying the Ship's side, took
us up the following Week without anything remarkable happening until

[July 1769. At Tahiti.]

Sunday, July 9th. When, sometime in the Middle Watch, Clement Webb and
Saml. Gibson, both Marines and young Men, found means to get away from
the Fort (which was now no hard matter to do) and in the morning were not
to be found. As it was known to everybody that all hands were to go on
board on the Monday morning, and that the ship would sail in a day or
two, there was reason to think that these 2 Men intended to stay behind.
However I was willing to stay one day to see if they would return before
I took any step to find them.

Monday, 10th. The 2 Marines not returning this morning, I began to
enquire after them, and was inform'd by some of the Natives that they
were gone to the Mountains, and that they had got each of them a Wife and
would not return; but at the same time no one would give us any certain
intelligence where they were, upon which a resolution was taken to seize
upon as many of the Chiefs as we could. This was thought to be the
readiest method to induce the other natives to produce the 2 Men. We had
in our custody Obariea, Toobouratomita, and 2 other Chiefs, but that I
know'd Tootaha would have more weight with the Natives than all these put
together, I dispatched Lieutenant Hicks away in the Pinnace to the place
where Tootaha was, to endeavour to decoy him into the Boat and bring him
on board, which Mr. Hicks performed without the least disturbance. We had
no sooner taken the other Chiefs into Custody in Mr. Banks's Tent than
they became as desirous of having the Men brought back has they were
before of keeping them, and only desir'd that one of our people might be
sent with some of theirs for them. Accordingly I sent a petty officer and
the Corporal of Marines with 3 or 4 of their People, not doubting but
they would return with the 2 Men in the evening; but they not coming as
soon as I expected, I took all the Chiefs on board the ship for greater
safety. About 9 o'Clock in the evening Webb, the Marine, was brought in
by some of the natives and sent on board. He informed me that the Petty
Officer and Corporal that had been sent in quest of them were disarm'd
and seiz'd upon by the natives, and that Gibson was with them.
Immediately upon getting this information I dispatch'd Mr. Hicks away in
the Long boat with a strong party of men to rescue them but before he
went Tootaha and the other Chiefs was made to understand that they must
send some of their People with Mr. Hicks to shew him the place where our
men were, and at the same time to send orders for their immediate
releasement, for if any harm came to the men they (the Chiefs) would
suffer for it; and I believe at this time they wished as much to see the
Men return in safety as I did, for the guides conducted Mr. Hicks to the
place before daylight, and he recovered the men without the least
opposition, and return'd with them about 7 o'Clock in the morning of

Tuesday, 11th. I then told the Chiefs that there remain'd nothing more to
be done to regain their liberty but to deliver up the Arms the People had
taken from the Petty Officer and Corporal, and these were brought on
board in less than half an Hour, and then I sent them all on shore. They
made but a short stay with our people there before they went away, and
most of the natives with them: but they first wanted to give us 4 Hogs.
These we refused to except of them, as they would take nothing in return.
Thus we are likely to leave these people in disgust with our behaviour
towards them, owing wholy to the folly of 2 of our men, for it does not
appear that the natives had any hand in inticing them away, and therefore
were not the first Agressors. However, it is very certain that had we not
taken this step we never should have recovered them. The Petty Officer
whom I sent in quest of the deserters told me that the Natives would give
him no intelligence where they were, nor those that went along with him,
but, on the contrary, grew very troublesome, and, as they were returning
in the evening, they were suddenly seized upon by a number of Armed men
that had hid themselves in the wood for that purpose. This was after
Tootaha had been seized upon by us, so that they did this by way of
retaliation in order to recover their Chief; but this method did not meet
with the approbation of them all. A great many condemn'd these
proceedings, and were for having them set at liberty, while others were
for keeping them until Tootaha was releas'd. The dispute went so far that
they came from words to blows, and our people were several times very
near being set at liberty; but at last the party for keeping them
Prevailed, but, as they had still some friends, no insult was offer'd
them. A little while after they brought Webb and Gibson, the two
deserters, to them as Prisoners likewise; but at last they agreed that
Webb should be sent to inform us where the others were. When I came to
Examine these 2 Men touching the reasons that induced them to go away, it
appeared that an acquaintance they had contracted with 2 Girls, and to
whom they had strongly attached themselves, was the Sole reason of their
attempting to stay behind. Yesterday we weighed the small Bower Anchor,
the Stock of which was so much eaten by the worms as to break in heaving
up, and to-day we hove up the best Bower, and found the Stock in the very
same Condition. This day we got everything off from the Shore, and
to-night everybody lays on board.

Wednesday, 12th. The Carpenter employ'd in stocking the Anchors and the
Seamen in getting the Ship ready for Sea. This morning we found the
Staves of the Cask the Natives stole from us some time ago laying at the
Watering place; but they had been Sencible enough to keep the Iron Hoops,
and only return what to them was of no use.

[Sail from Tahiti.]

Thursday, 13th. Winds Easterly, a light breeze. This morning we was
visited by Obariea and several others of our acquaintance, a thing we did
not expect after what had hapned but 2 days ago; but this was in some
measures owing to Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself going to Apparra
last night, where we so far convinc'd them of our Friendly disposition
that several of them were in tears at our coming away. Between 11 and 12
o'Clock we got under Sail, and took our final leave of these People,
after a stay of just three Months, the most part of which time we have
been upon good terms with them. Some few differences have now and then
hapned owing partly to the want of rightly understanding each other, and
partly to their natural thievish disposition, which we could not at all
times bear with or guard against; but these have been attended with no
ill consequence to either side except the first, in which one of them was
kill'd, and this I was very sorry for, because from what had hapned to
them by the Dolphin I thought it would have been no hard matter to have
got and keep a footing with them without bloodshed. For some time before
we left this Island several of the Natives were daily offering themselves
to go away with us; and as it was thought they must be of use to us in
our future discoveries we resolved to bring away one whose name is Tupia,
a Chief and a Priest. This man had been with us most part of the time we
had been upon the Island, which gave us an opportunity to know something
of him. We found him to be a very intelligent person, and to know more of
the Geography of the Islands situated in these Seas, their produce, and
the religion, laws, and Customs of the inhabitants, than any one we had
met with, and was the likeliest person to answer our Purpose. For these
reasons, and at the request of Mr. Banks, I received him on board,
together with a young Boy, his Servant. For the first two Months we were
at this Island the Natives supplied us with as much Bread fruit, Cocoa
Nuts, etc., as we could well dispence with, and now and then a few Hogs,
but of these hardly sufficient to give the Ship's company one and
sometimes two fresh Meals a week. As to Fowls, I did not see above 3
dozen upon the whole Island, and fish they seldom would part with; but
during the last Month we got little refreshment of any sort. The
detaining of their Canoes broke off Trade at that time, and it never
after was begun again with any Spirit. However, it was not wholy owing to
this, but to a Scarcity. The Season for Bread fruit was wholy over, and
what other Fruits they had were hardly sufficient for themselves; at
least, they did not care to part with them. All sorts of Fruits we
purchased with Beads and Nails, not less than 40-penny, for a nail under
that size was of no value; but we could not get a Hog above 10 or 12
pounds weight for anything less than a Hatchet, not but that they set
great value upon Spike Nails; but, as this was an Article many in the
Ship are provided with, the Women soon found a much easier way at coming
at them than by bringing Provisions. Our Traffick with this people was
carried on with as much Order as in the best regulated Market in Europe.
It was managed ashore chiefly by Mr. Banks, who took uncommon Pains to
procure from the Natives every kind of refreshment that was to be got.
Axes, Hatchets, Spikes, large Nails, looking Glasses, Knives, and Beads
are all highly valued by this People, and nothing more is wanting to
Traffick with them for everything they have to dispose of. They are
likewise very fond of fine Linnen Cloth, both White and Printed, but an
Axe worth half a Crown will fetch more than a Piece of Cloth worth Twenty
Shillings.

Upon our arrival at Batavia we had certain information that the two ships
that were at George's Island some time before our arrival there were both
French ships.* (* In Admiralty copy.)

DESCRIPTION OF KING GEORGE'S ISLAND.

This Island is called by the Natives Otaheite, and was first discovered
by Captain Wallis, in His Majesty's ship Dolphin, on June 19th, 1767, and
to the Credit of him and his Officers, the Longitude of Royal Bay was by
them settled to within half a degree of the Truth, and the whole figure
of the Island not ill described. It is situated between the Latitude of
17 degrees 29 minutes and 17 degrees 53 minutes South, and between the
Longitude of 149 degrees 10 minutes and 149 degrees 39 minutes West from
the Meridian of Greenwich.* (* These latitudes are exact. The modern
limits of longitude are 149 degrees 7 minutes to 149 degrees 36 minutes
30 seconds.) Point Venus, so called from the Observation being made
there, is the Northern extremity of the Island, and lies in the Longitude
of 149 degrees 30 minutes,* (* Now considered to be 149 degrees 29
minutes.) being the mean result of a Great number of Observations made
upon the Spot. The Shores of this Island are mostly guarded from the Sea
by reefs of coral rocks, and these form several excellent Bays and
Harbours, wherein are room and depth of Water sufficient for the largest
Ships.

Royal Bay, called by the Natives Matavie,* (* Matavai.) in which we lay,
and the Dolphin before us, is not inferior to any on the Island, both in
Point of conveniency and Situation. It may easily be known by a
Prodigious high Mountain in the middle of the Island, which bears due
south from Point Venus, which is the Eastern point of the Bay. To sail
into it either keep the West point of the Reefs which lies before Point
Venus close on board, or give it a berth of near half a Mile in order to
avoid a small Shoal of Coral Rocks, whereon is but 2 1/2 fathoms of
water. The best Anchoring is on the Eastern side of the Bay in 16 or 14
fathoms of water, owsey bottom. The Shore of the bay is all a fine sandy
beach, behind which runs a river of Fresh Water, so that any Number of
Ships might Water here without discommoding one another. The only wood
for fuel upon the whole Island is fruit Trees, and these must be
purchased of the Natives, if you mean to keep on good Terms with them.
There are some Harbours to the Westward of this bay that have not been
mentioned, but as they lay Contiguous to it, and are to be found in the
plan, the description of them is unnecessary.

The land of this Island, except what is immediately bordering upon the
Sea coast, is of a very uneven Surface, and rises in ridges which run up
into the middle of the Island, and there form mountains, that are of a
height Sufficient to be seen at the distance of 20 leagues. Between the
foot of the ridges and the Sea is a border of low Land surrounding the
whole Island, except in a few places where the ridge rises directly from
the Sea. This low land is of Various Breadths, but nowhere exceeds a Mile
and a half. The Soil is rich and fertile, being for the most part well
stock'd with fruit Trees and small Plantations. and well water'd by a
number of small Rivulets of Excellent Water which come from the adjacent
hills. It is upon this low Land that the greatest part of the inhabitants
live, not in Towns or Vilages, but dispersed everywhere round the whole
Island; the Tops of most of the ridges and mountains are Barren and, as
it were, burnt up with the sun, yet many parts of some of them are not
without their produce, and many of the Valleys are fertile and inhabited.

[Produce of Tahiti.]

OF THE PRODUCE.

The produce of this Island is Bread Fruit, Cocoa Nuts, Bonanoes,
Plantains, a fruit like an Apple, sweet Potatoes, Yams, a Fruit known by
the name of Eag Melloa, and reck'ned most delicious; Sugar Cane which the
inhabitants eat raw; a root of the Salop kind, called by the inhabitants
Pea; the root also of a plant called Ether; and a fruit in a pod like a
Kidney bean, which when roasted eats like a Chestnut, and is called Ahee;
the fruit of a Tree which they call Wharra, something like a Pine Apple;
the fruit of a Tree called by them Nano; the roots of a Fern and the
roots of a plant called Thive. All these Articles the Earth almost
Spontaniously produces, or, at least, they are raised with very little
Labour. In the Article of food these people may almost be said to be
exempt from the Curse of our Forefathers, scarcely can it be said that
they Earn their bread with the sweat of their brow; benevolent Nature
hath not only Supply'd them with necessarys, but with abundance of
Superfluities. The Sea coast supplies them with vast Variety of most
Excellent fish, but these they get not without some Trouble and
Perseverance. Fish seems to be one of their greatest Luxuries, and they
Eat it either raw or Dressed and seem to relish it one way as well as the
other. Not only fish but almost everything that comes out of the Sea is
Eat and Esteem'd by these People; Shell Fish, Lobsters, Crabs, and even
sea insects, and what is commonly called blubbers of many kinds, conduce
to their support.

For tame Animals they have Hogs, Fowls, and Dogs, the latter of which we
learned to Eat from them, and few were there of us but what allow'd that
a South Sea dog was next to an English Lamb. One thing in their favour is
that they live intirely upon Vegetables; probably our Dogs would not Eat
half so well. Little can be said in favour of their Fowles, but their
pork is most Excellent, they have no beasts of Prey of any Sort, and Wild
Fowls are scarce and confin'd to a few Species. When any of the Chiefs
kill a Hog it seems to be almost equally divided among all his
Dependents, and as these are generally very numerous, it is but a little
that come to each person's share, so that their chief food is Vegetables,
and of these they eat a large quantity.

Cookery seems to have been but little studied here; they have only 2
Methods of applying Fire--broiling and Baking, as we called it; the
method this is done I have before described, and I am of Opinion that
Victuals dressed this way are more juicy and more equally done than by
any of our Methods, large Fish in particular, Bread Fruit, Bananoes.
Plantains Cooked this way eat like boil'd Potatoes, and was much used by
us by way of bread whenever we could get them. Of bread Fruit they make 2
or 3 dishes by beating it with a Stone Pestle till it makes a Paste,
mixing Water or Cocoa Nut Liquor, or both, with it, and adding ripe
Plantains, Bananoes, Sour Paste, etc.

This last is made from bread Fruit in the following manner. This fruit,
from what I can find, remains in Season only 8 or 9 months in the year,
and as it is the Chief support of the inhabitants a reserve of food must
be made for those months when they are without it. To do this the Fruit
is gathered when upon the point of ripening; after the rinde is scraped
off it is laid in heaps and coverd close with leaves, where it undergoes
a fermentation, and becomes soft and disagreeably sweet. The Core is then
taken out, and the rest of the fruit thrown into a Hole dug for that
purpose, the sides and bottom of which are neatly laid with grass. The
whole is covered with leaves and heavy stones laid upon them; here it
undergoes a second Fermentation and becomes sourish, in which condition
they say it will keep good 10 or 12 months. As they want to use it they
make it into balls, which they wrap up in leaves and bake in the same
manner as they do the Fruit from the Tree; it is then ready for eating
either hot or cold, and hath a sour and disagreeable taste. In this last
State it will keep good a Month or 6 Weeks; it is called by them Mahai,
and they seldom make a Meal without some of it, one way or another. To
this plain diet Salt Water is the universal sauce, hardly any one sets
down to a meal without a Cocoa Nut shell full of it standing by them,
into which they dip most of what they Eat, especially Fish, drinking at
Intervals large sops of it out of their Hands, so that a man may use half
a Pint at a Meal.

It is not common for any 2 to eat together, the better sort hardly ever;
and the women never upon any account eat with the Men, but always by
themselves. What can be the reason of so unusual a custom it is hard to
say; especially as they are a people, in every other instance, fond of
Society and much so of their Women. They were often Asked the reason, but
they never gave no other Answer, but that they did it because it was
right, and Express'd much dislike at the Custom of Men and Women Eating
together of the same Victuals. We have often used all the intreatys we
were Masters of to invite the Women to partake of our Victuals at our
Tables, but there never was an instance of one of them doing it publick,
but they would Often goe 5 or 6 together into the Servants apartments,
and there eat very heartily of whatever they could find, nor were they
the least disturbed if any of us came in while they were dining; and it
hath sometimes hapned that when a woman was alone in our company she
would eat with us, but always took care that her own people should not
know what she had don, so that whatever may be the reasons for this
custom, it certainly affects their outward manners more than their
Principle.

[Natives of Tahiti.]

PERSON OF THE NATIVES.

With respect to their persons the Men in general are tall, strong-limb'd,
and well shaped. One of the tallest we saw measured 6 feet 3 inches and a
half. The superior women are in every respect as large as Europeans, but
the inferior sort are in General small, owing possibly to their early
Amours, which they are more addicted to than their superiors. They are of
various Colours: those of the inferior sort, who are obliged to be much
exposed to the Sun and air, are of a very Dark brown; the superiors
again, who spend most of their Time in their Houses under Shelter, are
not browner than people who are born or reside longer in the West Indies;
nay, some of the Women are almost as fair as Europeans. Their hair is
almost universally black, thick, and Strong; this the Women wear short
Cropt Round their Ears. The Men, on the other hand, wear it different
ways: the better sort let it grow long, and sometimes tying it up on the
Top of their Heads, or letting it hang loose over their Shoulders; but
many of the inferiors, and such who, in the exercise of their
professions, fishing, etc., are obliged to be much upon or in the Water,
wear it cropt short like the women. They always pluck out a part of their
beards, and keep what remains neat and Clean. Both Sexes eradicate every
hair from under their Armpits, and look upon it as a mark of
uncleanliness in us that we do not do the Same.

They have all fine white Teeth, and for the most part short flat Noses
and thick lips; yet their features are agreeable, and their gaite
graceful, and their behavior to strangers and to each other is open,
affable, and Courteous, and, from all I could see, free from treachery,
only that they are thieves to a man, and would steal but everything that
came in their way, and that with such dexterity as would shame the most
noted Pickpocket in Europe. They are very cleanly people, both in their
persons and diet, always washing their hands and Mouth immediately before
and after their Meals, and wash or Bathe themselves in fresh Water 3
times a day, morning, Noon, and Night.

The only disagreeable thing about them is the Oil with which they anoint
their heads, Monoe, as they call it; this is made of Cocoanutt Oil, in
which some sweet Herbs or Flowers are infused. The Oil is generally very
rancid, which makes the wearer of it smell not very agreeable.* (* Other
voyagers have, on the contrary, described the odour of this sweetened oil
as agreeable.) Another custom they have that is disagreeable to
Europeans, which is eating lice, a pretty good stock of which they
generally carry about them. However, this custom is not universal; for I
seldom saw it done but among Children and Common People, and I am
perswaided that had they the means they would keep themselves as free
from lice as we do; but the want of Combs in a Hot climate makes this
hardly possible. There are some very fine men upon this Island whose
skins are whiter than any European's, but of a Dead Colour, like that of
the Nose of a White Horse; their Eyes, eyebrows, hair and beards are also
White. Their bodys were cover'd, more or less, with a kind of White down.
Their skins are spotted, some parts being much whiter than others. They
are short-sighted, with their eyes oftimes full of rheum, and always
look'd unwholesome, and have neither the Spirit nor the activity of the
other Natives. I did not see above 3 or 4 upon the whole Island, and
these were old men; so that I concluded that this difference of colour,
etc., was accidental, and did not run in families, for if it did they
must have been more Numerous. The inhabitants of this Island are Troubled
with a sort of Leprosy, or Scab all over their bodys. I have seen Men,
Women, and Children, but not many, who have had this distemper to that
degree as not to be able to walk. This distemper, I believe, runs in
familys, because I have seen both mother and Child have it.

Both sexes paint their Bodys, Tattow, as it is called in their Language.
This is done by inlaying the Colour of Black under their skins, in such a
manner as to be indelible. Some have ill-design'd figures of men, birds,
or dogs; the women generally have this figure Z simply on every joint of
their fingers and Toes; the men have it likewise, and both have other
differant figures, such as Circles, Crescents, etc., which they have on
their Arms and Legs; in short, they are so various in the application of
these figures that both the quantity and Situation of them seem to depend
intirely upon the humour of each individual, yet all agree in having
their buttocks covered with a Deep black. Over this Most have Arches
drawn one over another as high as their short ribs, which are near a
Quarter of an inch broad. These Arches seem to be their great pride, as
both men and Women show them with great pleasure.

Their method of Tattowing I shall now describe. The colour they use is
lamp black, prepar'd from the Smoak of a Kind of Oily nut, used by them
instead of Candles. The instrument for pricking it under the Skin is made
of very thin flatt pieces of bone or Shell, from a quarter of an inch to
an inch and a half broad, according to the purpose it is to be used for,
and about an inch and a half long. One end is cut into sharp teeth, and
the other fastened to a handle. The teeth are dipped into black Liquor,
and then drove, by quick, sharp blows struck upon the handle with a Stick
for that purpose, into the skin so deep that every stroke is followed
with a small quantity of Blood. The part so marked remains sore for some
days before it heals. As this is a painful operation, especially the
Tattowing their Buttocks, it is perform'd but once in their Life times;
it is never done until they are 12 or 14 years of Age.

[Clothing of Tahitians.]

Their Cloathing is either of Cloth or Matting of several different sorts;
the dress of both Men and Women are much the same, which is a Piece of
Cloth or Matting wrapp'd 2 or 3 times round their waist, and hangs down
below their Knees, both behind and before, like a Pettycoat; another
piece, or sometimes 2 or 3, about 2 yards or 2 1/2 yards long, with a
hole in the Middle, through which they put their heads. This hangs over
their Shoulders down behind and before, and is tied round their waist
with a long piece of thin Cloth, and being open at the sides gives free
liberty to their arms. This is the common dress of all ranks of people,
and there are few without such a one except the Children, who go quite
naked, the Boys until they are 6 or 7 years of Age, and the girls until 3
or 4. At these Ages they begin to cover what nature teaches them to hide.
Besides the dress I have mentioned some of the better sort, such as can
afford it, but more especially the Women, will one way or other wrap
round them several pieces of Cloth, each 8 or 10 Yards long and 2 or 3
broad, so much that I have often wondered how they could bear it in so
hot a climate. Again, on the other hand, many of the inferior sort during
the heat of the Day, go almost naked, the women wearing nothing but the
Petticoat aforementioned, and sometimes hardly that. The men wear a piece
of Cloth like a Sack, which goes between their thighs, and brought up
before and behind, and then wrapped round their waist. This every man
wears always without exception, and it is no uncommon thing to see many
of the better sort have nothing else on, as it is reckoned no shame for
any part of the body to be exposed to View, except those which all
mankind hide.

Both sexes sometimes shade their faces from the Sun with little Bonnets
made of Cocoa-Nut leaves. Some have them of fine Matting, but this is
less common. They sometimes wear Turbands, but their Chief Headdress is
what they call Tomou, which is human Hair plaited scarce thicker than
common thread. Of this I can safely affirm that I have seen pieces near a
mile in length worked upon one end without a Knott. These are made and
worn only by the women, 5 or 6 such pieces of which they will sometimes
wind round their Heads, the effect of which, if done with taste, is very
becoming. They have Earings by way of Ornament, but wear them only at one
Ear. These are made of Shells, Stones, Berries, red pease, and some small
pearls which they wear 3 tied together; but our Beads, Buttons, etc.,
very soon supply'd their places.

[Customs of Tahiti.]

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.

After their meals in the Heat of the day they often Sleep, middle Aged
people especially, the better sort of whom seem to spend most of their
time in eating and Sleeping. Diversions they have but few, shooting with
the Bow and Wrestling are the Chief; the first of which is confin'd
almost wholy to the Chiefs; they shoot for distance only, kneeling upon
one knee and dropping the Bow the instant of the Arrows parting from it.
I have seen one of them shoot an Arrow 274 yards, yet he looked upon it
as no Great Shotte.

Musick is little known to them, yet they are very fond of it; they have
only 2 Instruments--the flute and the Drum. The former is made of hollow
Bamboo about 15 inches long, in which are 3 Holes; into one of them they
blow with one Nostril, stopping the other with the thumb of the left
hand, the other 2 Holes they stop and unstop with their fingers, and by
this means produce 4 Notes, of which they have made one Tune, which
serves them upon all Occasions, to which they sing a number of songs
generally consisting of 2 lines and generally in rhime. At any time of
the day when they are Lazy they amuse themselves by singing these
Couplets, but especially after dark when their candles are lighted, which
are made of the Kernels of a Nutt abounding much in oil; these are stuck
upon a Skewer of Wood one upon another, and give a very Tolerable light,
which they often keep burning an hour after dark, and if they have
strangers in the House much longer. Their drums are made of a hollow
block of wood covered with Shark's Skin, and instead of Drumsticks they
use their hands. Of these they make out 5 or 6 tunes and accompany the
flutes.

The drums are Chiefly used at their Heivas, which are a set of Musicians,
2 or 3 Drums for instance, as many flutes and singers, which go about
from House to House and play, and are always received and rewarded by the
Master of the family, who gives them a Piece of Cloth or whatever he can
spare, for which they will stay 3 or 4 hours, during which time his house
will be crowded full, for the people are extravagantly fond of this
diversion. The Young Girls whenever they can collect 8 or 10 Together
dance a very indecent Dance, which they call Timorodee, singing most
indecent songs and using most indecent actions, in the practice of which
they are brought up from their earliest childhood; in doing this they
keep time to a great nicety. This exercise is generally left off as soon
as they arrive at Years of Maturity, for as soon as they have form'd a
connection with man they are expected to leave off dancing Timorodee.

One amusement or custom more I must mention, though I confess I do not
expect to be believed, it is founded upon a Custom so inhuman and
contrary to the Principles of human nature. It is this: that more than
one half of the better sort of the inhabitants have enter'd into a
resolution of injoying free liberty in Love, without being Troubled or
disturbed by its consequences. These mix and Cohabit together with the
utmost freedom, and the Chilldren who are so unfortunate as to be thus
begot are smother'd at the Moment of their Birth; many of these People
contract intimacies and live together as man and wife for years, in the
course of which the Children that are born are destroy'd. They are so far
from concealing it that they look upon it as a branch of freedom upon
which they Value themselves. They are called Arreoys, and have meetings
among themselves, where the men amuse themselves with Wrestling, etc.,
and the Women in dancing the indecent dance before-mentioned, in the
course of which they give full Liberty to their desires, but I believe
keep up to the appearance of decency. I never see one of these meetings;
Dr. Monkhouse saw part of one, enough to make him give Credit to what we
had been told.

Both sexes express the most indecent ideas in conversation without the
least emotion, and they delight in such conversation beyond any other.
Chastity, indeed, is but little valued, especially among the middle
people--if a Wife is found guilty of a breach of it her only punishment
is a beating from her husband. The Men will very readily offer the Young
Women to Strangers, even their own Daughters, and think it very strange
if you refuse them; but this is done merely for the sake of gain.

The Houses or dwellings of these People are admirably calculated for the
continual warmth of the Climate; they do not build them in Towns or
Villages, but seperate each from the other, and always in the Woods, and
are without walls, so that the air, cooled by the shade of the Trees, has
free access in whatever direction it hapens to blow. No country can boast
of more delightful walks than this; the whole Plains where the Natives
reside are covered with groves of Bread Fruit and Cocoa Nut Trees,
without underwood, and intersected in all directions by the Paths which
go from House to House, so that nothing can be more grateful in a Climate
where the sun hath so powerful an influence. They are generally built in
form of an Oblong square, the Roofs are supported by 3 Rows of Pillars or
posts, and neatly covered with Thatch made of Palm leaves. A middle-siz'd
house is about 24 feet by 12, extream heigth about 8 or 9, and heigth of
the Eves 3 1/2 or 4. The floors are cover'd some inches deep with Hay,
upon which, here and there, lay matts for the conveniency of sitting
down; few houses has more than one Stool, which is only used by the
Master of the family.

In their houses are no rooms or Partitions, but they all huddle and Sleep
together; yet in this they generally observe some order, the Married
people laying by themselves, and the unmarried each sex by themselves, at
some small distance from each other. Many of the Eares or Chiefs are more
private, having small movable houses in which they Sleep, man and Wife,
which, when they go by Water from place to place, are tied upon their
Canoes; these have walls made of Cocoa-Nut leaves, etc. I have said that
the houses are without walls, but this is only to be understood in
general, for many of them are walled with wickering, but not so close but
to admit a free circulation of Air. The matts which serve them to sit
upon in the daytime are also their beds in the night, and the Cloathes
they wear in the day serve for covering, a little wood Stool, block of
wood, or bundle of Cloth for a Pillow. Besides these common houses there
are others much larger, 200 feet long and upwards, 30 broad, and 20 in
heigth. There are generally 2 or 3 of these in every district, and seem'd
not only built for the accommodation of the principal people, but common
to all the inhabitants of that district, and raised and kept up by their
joint Labour; these are always without walls, and have generally a large
Area on one side neatly inclosed with low pallisades, etc.

[Tahitian Canoes.]

Their Canoes or Proes are built all of them very narrow, and some of the
largest are 60 or 70 feet long. These consist of several pieces; the
bottom is round and made of large logs hollow'd out to the thickness of
about 3 Inches, and may consist of 3 or 4 pieces; the sides are of Plank
of nearly the same thickness, and are built nearly perpendicular,
rounding in a little towards the Gunwale. The pieces on which they are
built are well fitted, and fastned or sewed together with strong platting
something in the same manner as old China, Wooden Bowls, etc., are
mended. The greatest breadth is at the after part, which is generally
about 18 or 20 Inches, and the fore part about 1/3 Narrower; the heigth
from the bottom to the Gunwale seldom exceeds 2 1/2 or 3 feet. They build
them with high curv'd Sterns which are generally ornamented with carved
work; the head or fore part curves little or nothing. The smaller Canoes
are built after the same plan, some out of one, 2, or more trees
according to their size or the use they are for. In order to prevent them
from oversetting when in the Water, all those that go single, both great
and Small, have what is called Outriggers, which are Pieces of Wood
fastened to the Gunwale and project out on one side about 6, 8, or 10
feet, according to the size of the Boat. At the end is fastened in a
Parrallel direction to the Canoe a long log of wood simply; or some have
it Shaped in the form of a small Boat, but this is not common; this lays
in the Water and Balances the Boat. Those that are for sailing have
Outriggers only on the other side abreast of the Mast; these serves to
fasten the Shrouds to, and are of use in Trimming the Boat when it blows
fresh; the sailing proes have some one and some 2 masts; the sails are of
Matting and are made narrow at the head and Square at the foot, something
like a Shoulder of Mutton Sail, such as are generally used in Man-of-War
Barges, etc.

I have mentioned above that the single Canoes have Outriggers, for those
that go double--that is 2 together, which is very common--have no need of
any; and it is done in this manner: 2 Canoes are placed in a parrallel
direction to each other, about 3 or 4 feet asunder, securing them
together by small Logs of Wood laid across and lashed to each of their
gunwales; thus the one boat supports the other, and are not in the least
danger of upsetting, and I believe it is in this manner that all their
large Proes are used, some of which will carry a great number of Men, by
means of a Platform made of Bamboo or other light wood and the whole
length of the Proes and considerably broader, but I never saw but one
fitted in this manner upon the whole Island. Upon the Forepart of all
these large double Proes was placed an Oblong Platform about ten or
twelve feet in length, and six or eight in Breadth, and supported about 4
feet above the Gunwale by stout Carved Pillars. The use of these
Platforms, as we were told, are for the Club Men to stand and fight upon
in time of Battle, for the large Canoes, from what I could learn, are
built most, if not wholly, for war, and their method of fighting is to
Graple one another and fight it out with Clubs, spears, and stones. I
never saw but one of these sort of Canoes in the water, the rest was all
hauled ashore and seemed to be going to decay, neither were there very
many of them upon the Island.* (* The war canoes of Tahiti exist no
longer. The others are still used, and merit all Cook's encomiums on
their sailing qualities.)

The Chiefs and better sort of People generally go from one part of the
island to another in small double Canoes which carry a little movable
House, this not only Skreens them from the Sun by day, but serves them to
Sleep in in the Night, and this way of Travelling is Extremely commodious
about such Islands as are inclosed by a reef as this is; for as these
Canoes draw but Little water they can always keep in the Reefs, and by
that means are never in danger.

They have some few other Canoes, Pahees as they call them, which differ
from those above discribed, but of these I saw but 6 upon the whole
Island, and was told they were not built here. The 2 largest was each 76
feet long, and when they had been in use had been fastned together. These
are built Sharp and Narrow at both Ends and broad in the Middle; the
bottom is likewise Sharp, inclining to a Wedge, yet Buldges out very much
and rounds in again very quick just below the Gunwale. They are built of
several pieces of thick plank and put together as the others are, only
these have timbers in the inside, which the others have not. They have
high Curved Sterns, the head also Curves a little, and both are
ornamented with the image of a man carved in wood, very little inferior
work of the like kind done by common Ship Carvers in England.

When one Considers the Tools these people have one cannot help but
admiring their workmanship; these are Adzes and small Hatchets made of a
hard Stone, Chizels and Gouges made of human bones, generally the bones
of the Forearm, but Spike Nails have pretty well supplyd the place of
these. With these ordinary Tools, that a European would expect to break
the first stroke, I have seen them work surprisingly fast. To plain or
polish their work they rub upon it, with a small stone, Coral Beat small
and Mixed with Water; this is done sometimes by scraping it with Shells,
with which alone they perform most of their Small wood work.

Their Proes or Canoes, large and Small, are row'd and Steer'd with
Paddles, and, notwithstanding the large ones appear to be very unweildy,
they manage them very dexterously, and I believe perform long and distant
Voyages in them, otherwise they could not have the knowledge of the
Islands in these Seas they seem to have. They wear for Shew or Ornament
at the Mast Head of most of their Sailing Canoes Pendants made of
Feathers.

Having described their fighting Canoes I shall next describe their Arms
with which they attack their Enemys, both by Sea and Land. These are
Clubs, Spears or Lances, Slings and Stones which they throw by hand. The
Clubs are made of a hard wood, and are about 8 or 9 feet long; the one
half is made flatish with 2 Edges, and the other half is round and not
thicker than to be easily grasped by the hand. The Lances are of various
lengths, some from 12, 20 or 30 feet, and are generally Arm'd at the
Small end with the Stings of Sting-rays, which makes them very dangerous
weapons. Altho' these people have Bows and Arrows--and those none of the
worst--we are told that they never use them in their wars, which
doubtless is very extraordinary and not easily accounted for. They have
very Curious breastplates, made of small wickers, pieces of Matting,
etc., and neatly Cover'd with Sharks' teeth, Pearl Oyster shells, birds'
feathers, and dogs' hair. Thus much for their Arms, etc.

[Tahitian Cloth.]

I shall now describe their way of making Cloth, which, in my opinion, is
the only Curious manufacture they have. All their Cloth is, I believe,
made from the Bark of Trees; the finest is made from a plant which they
Cultivate for no other purpose.* (* Broussonetia papyrifera. The
manufacture is common to all Polynesia, and the ordinary name for it in
the Pacific is Tapa. The Tahitians, however, called it Ahu.) Dr. Solander
thinks it is the same plant the bark of which the Chinese make paper of.
They let this plant grow till it is about 6 or 8 feet high, the Stem is
then about as thick as one's Thum or thicker; after this they cut it down
and lay it a Certain time in water. This makes the Bark strip off easy,
the outside of which is scraped off with a rough Shell. After this is
done it looks like long strips of ragged linnen; these they lay together,
by means of a fine paist made of some sort of a root, to the Breadth of a
yard more or less, and in length 6, 8 or 10 Yards or more according to
the use it is for. After it is thus put together it is beat out to its
proper breadth and fineness, upon a long square piece of wood, with
wooden beaters, the Cloth being keept wet all the time. The beaters are
made of hard wood with four square sides, are about 3 or 4 inches broad
and cut into grooves of different fineness; this makes the Cloth look at
first sight as if it was wove with thread, but I believe the principal
use of the Groves is to facilitate the beating it out, in the doing of
which they often beat holes in it, or one place thinner than another; but
this is easily repair'd by pasting on small bits, and this they do in
such a manner that the Cloth is not the least injured. The finest sort
when bleached is very white and comes nearest to fine Cotton. Thick
cloth, especially fine, is made by pasting two or more thickness's of
thin cloth, made for that Purpose, together. Coarse thick cloth and
ordinary thin cloth is made of the Bark of Bread fruit Trees, and I think
I have been told that it is sometimes made from the Bark of other trees.
The making of Cloth is wholy the work of the women, in which all ranks
are employ'd. Their common colours are red, brown and yellow, with which
they dye some pieces just as their fancy leads them. Besides Cloth they
make several different sorts of matting, both better and finer than any
we have in Europe; the stuff they make it on is the Produce of the Palm
tree.

This Island produceth 2 or 3 sorts of plants, of which they make the rope
they use in rigging their Canoes, etc.; the finest sort, such as fishing
lines, saine twine, etc., is made of the Bark of a Tree, and some from
the Kind of Silk grass. Their fishing lines and saines are in Point of
goodness preferable to any of ours. Their fishing Hooks are very
curiously made of Tortoise, Pearl Oyster Shells, etc. They have a sort of
Saine that is made of Coarse broad grass like flags; these are twisted
and tied together in a loose manner until the whole is as thick as a
large sack, and 60 or 80 fathoms long. This they haul in Shoal smooth
water; its own weight keeps it so close to the ground that hardly the
smallest fish can escape out.

I have before mentioned that the Island is divided into two districts or
kingdoms, which are frequently at war with each other, as hapned about 12
Months ago, and each of these are again divided into smaller districts,
Whennuas as they call them. Over each of the kingdoms is an Eare dehi, or
head, whom we call a King, and in the Whennuas are Eares, or Chiefs. The
King's power seems to be but very little; he may be reverenced as a
father, but he is neither fear'd nor respected as a monarch, and the same
may be said of the other Chiefs. However, they have a pre-eminence over
the rest of the People, who pay them a kind of a Voluntary Obedience.
Upon the whole, these people seem to enjoy liberty in its fullest
extent--every man seems to be the sole judge of his own actions and to
know no punishment but death, and this perhaps is never inflicted but
upon a public enemy. There are 3 ranks of Men and Women: first, the
Eares, or chiefs; second, the Manahoonas, or Middling sort; and lastly,
the Toutous, which comprehend all the lower-class, and are by far the
most numerous. These seem to live in some sort dependent on the Eares,
who, together with the Manahoonas, own most, if not all the land. This is
Hereditary in their families, and the moment the Heir is born he succeeds
the Father, both in title and Estate; at least to the name, for its most
likely that the latter must have the power during his Son or Daughter's
Minority.

Note by Cook. Upon our arrival at Batavia, we were informed the two
French Ships, commanded by the Monsieurs Beaugainvile, touched at that
place in their way home from the South Seas two years ago. We were here
told many circumstances of these two Ships, all tending to prove that
they were the same ships that were at George's Island, which we judged
were Spaniards; being led into this mistake by the Spanish Iron, etc., we
saw among the natives, which is easy accounted for, for we are told that
while Beaugainvile in the Frigate was delivering up that part of Falkland
Islands possess'd by the French, to the Spaniards, the Store ship was
trading with the Spaniards in the River Plate, where it is very probable
she disposed of all her European goods, and purchased others to trade
with the Islands in the South Seas. To confirm these last circumstances
we were told that when they arrived at Batavia, the Frigate had on board
a great quantity of Spanish Dollars.

[Religion of Tahiti.]

Having given the best account I can of the manners and Customs of these
people, it will be expected that I should give some account of their
religion, which is a thing I have learned so little of that I hardly dare
to touch upon it, and should have passed it over in silence, was it not
my duty as well as inclination to insert in this Journal every and the
least knowledge I may obtain of a People, who for many Centuries have
been shut up from almost every other part of the world.

They believe that there is one Supreem God whom they call Tane; from him
sprung a number of inferior Deities, Eatuas as they call them--these they
think preside over them and intermeddle in their affairs. To these they
offer Oblations such as Hogs, Dogs, Fish, Fruit, etc., and invoke them on
some particular occasions, as in time of real or Apparent Danger, the
setting out of a long Voyage, sickness's, etc.; but the Ceremony made use
of on these occasions I know not. The Mories, which we at first thought
were burying places, are wholy built for Places of worship, and for the
Performing of religious ceremonies in.* (* Cook did not apparently learn
anything in this voyage of the human sacrifices offered in the Morais on
many occasions, such as before war; at the coronation of the king; etc.
The Tahitians were, however, never guilty of cannibalism.) The Viands are
laid upon altars erected 8, 12, or 12 Feet high, by stout Posts, and the
Table of the Altar on which the Viands lay, is generally made of Palm
leaves; they are not always in the Mories, but very often at some
Distance from them. Their Mories, as well as the Tombs of the Dead, they
seem to hold sacred, and the women never enter the former, whatever they
may do the latter. The Viands laid near the Tombs of the Dead are, from
what I can learn, not for the deceased, but as an Offering to the Eatua
made upon that Occasion who, if not, would distroy the body and not
except of the soul--for they believe of a future state of rewards and
punishments; but what their Ideas are of it I know not. We have seen in
some few places small Houses set apart on purpose for the Oblations
offer'd to the Eatua, which consists of small strips of Cloth, Viands,
etc. I am of Opinion they offer to the Eatua a Strip or small piece of
every piece of Cloth they make before they use it themselves, and it is
not unlikely but what they observe the same thing with respect to their
Victuals, but as there are but few of these houses this cannot be a
common Custom; it may only be observ'd by the Priests and such families
as are more religious than others.

Now I have mentioned Priests, there are men that Exercise that function,
of which Numbers Tupia is one. They seem to be in no great repute,
neither can they live wholy by their Profession, and this leads me to
think that these People are no bigots to their religion. The Priests on
some occasions do the Office of Physicians, and their prescriptions
consists in performing some religious ceremony before the sick person.
They likewise Crown the Eare dehi, or King, in the performing of which we
are told much form and Ceremony is used, after which every one is at
liberty to treat and play as many Tricks with the new King as he pleaseth
during the remainder of the day.

There is a ceremony which they perform at or after the Funerals of the
Dead which I had forgot to mention at the time; we hapned to see it
sometime before we left the Island. An old Woman, a relation of
Toobouratomita's, hapned to die and was interr'd in the Usual manner. For
several successive evenings after, one of her relations dressed himself
in a very odd dress, which I cannot tell how to describe or to convey a
better Idea of it than to suppose a man dress'd with plumes of feathers,
something in the same manner as those worn by Coaches, Hearses, Horses,
etc., at the Funerals in London. It was very neatly made up of black or
brown and white cloth, black and white feathers, and pearl Oyster Shells.
It cover'd the head, face, and body, as low as the Calf of the Legs or
lower, and not only looked grand but awful likewise. The man thus
equip'd, and attended by 2 or 3 more men and Women with their faces and
bodys besmear'd with soot, and a Club in their hands, would about sunset
take a Compass of near a mile running here and there, and wherever they
came the People would fly from them as tho' they had been so many
hobgoblins, not one daring to come in their way. I know not the reason
for their Performing this ceremony, which they call Heiva, a name they
give to most of their divertisements.

They compute time by the Moon, which they call Malama, reckoning 30 days
to each moon, 2 of which they say the moon is Mattee, that is, dead, and
this is at the time of the new moon, when she cannot be seen. The day
they divide into smaller Portions not less than 2 Hours. Their
computations is by units, tens, and scores, up to ten score, or 200, etc.
In counting they generally take hold on their fingers one by one,
Shifting from one hand to the other, until they come to the number they
want to express; but if it be a high number, instead of their fingers
they use pieces of Leaves, etc.

In conversation one with another they frequently join signs to their
words, in which they are so expressive that a stranger will very soon
comprehend their meaning by their actions.

Having now done with the People, I must once more return to the Island
before I quit it altogether, which, notwithstanding nature hath been so
very bountiful to it, yet it does not produce any one thing of intrinsick
value or that can be converted into an Article of Trade; so that the
value of the discovery consists wholy in the refreshments it will always
afford to shipping in their passage through those seas; and in this it
may be greatly improved by transporting hither horned cattle, etc.
Pumpkins have got quite a footing here, the seeds of which most probably
were brought here by the Spaniards.* (* Bougainville.) We sowed of the
seeds of Water and Musk Mellons, which grew up and throve very fast. We
also gave of these seeds and the seeds of Pine Apples to several of the
Natives, and it cannot be doubted but what they will thrive here, and
will be a great addition to the fruits they already have. Upon our first
arrival we sowed of all sorts of English garden seeds and grain, but not
a single thing came up except mustard sallad; but this I know was not
owing either to the Soil or Climate, but to the badness of the seeds,
which were spoil'd by the length of the Passage.

[Winds at Tahiti.]

Altho' this Island lies within the Tropick of Capricorn, yet the Heat is
not Troublesome, nor do the winds blow constantly from the East, but are
subject to variations, frequently blowing a fresh gale from the
South-West Quarter for two or three days together, but very seldom from
the North-West. Whenever these variable winds happen they are always
accompanied with a swell from the South-West or West-South-West, and the
same thing happens whenever it is calm and the Atmosphere at the same
time loaded with Clouds--sure indication that the winds are Variable or
Westerly out at Sea, for clear weather generally attends the settled
Trade.

The meeting of Westerly winds within the general Limits of the Easterly
Trade is a little extraordinary, and has induced former Navigators, when
they met with them, to think that they were caused by the nearness of
some large Tracks of Land: but I rather think they were owing to another
Cause. It hath been found both by the Dolphin and us that the trade winds
in those parts of this Sea doth not extend further to the Southward than
20 degrees, and without which we generally meet with a wind from the
westward. Now, is it not reasonable to suppose that when these winds blow
strong they must encroach upon and drive back the Easterly winds as to
cause the variable winds and South-Westerly swells I have been speaking
of? It is well known that the Trade winds blow but faint for some
distance within their limits, and are therefore easily stopt by a wind
from the Contrary direction. It is likewise known that these limits are
subject to vary several degrees, not only at different seasons of the
Year, but at one and the same season. Another reason why I think that
these South-West winds are not caused by the nearness of any large Track
of land, is in their being always accompanied with a large swell from the
same Quarter, and we find a much greater surf beating upon the Shores of
the South-West sides of the Islands situated just within the Limits of
the Trade winds than upon any other part of them.

The tides are perhaps as inconsiderable in these Seas as in any part of
the world. A South or South by West moon makes high water in Royal Bay,
but the water does not rise upon a perpendicular above 10 or 12 inches,
except on some very Extraordinary occasions.

The variation of the Compass I found to be 4 degrees 46 minutes Easterly,
this being the mean result of a great number of Trials made by 4 of Dr.
Knight's needles belonging to the Azimuth Compasses, all of which I
judged to be good ones, and yet when applied to the Meridian line I found
them not only differ one from another sometimes a degree and a half; but
the same needle would differ from itself more or less, the difference
sometimes amounting to half a degree, both at the same time and on
differant days. This will in a great measure account for the seeming
errors that may, upon a nice examination, appear to have been made in
observing the Variation inserted in the Course of this Journal. This
variableness in Magnetick Needles I have many times and in many places
experienced both ashore and on board of Ships, and I do not remember of
ever finding two Needles that would agree exactly together at one and the
same time and place, but I have often found the same Needle agree with
itself for several Trials made immediately one after another.* (* These
discrepancies result from imperfections in the suspension and mounting of
the needles, and are only absent in instruments too delicate for ordinary
sea service.) However, all this is of no sort of consequence to
Navigation, as the Variation of the Compass can always be found to a
degree of accuracy more than sufficient for all nautical Purposes.

I have before hinted that these People have an Extensive knowledge of the
Islands situated in these Seas. Tupia, as well as several others, hath
given us an account of upwards of 70; but, as the account they have given
of their situation is so Vague and uncertain, I shall refer giving a list
of them until I have learnt from Tupia the Situation of each island with
a little more certainty. Four of these islands--viz., Huaheine, Ulietea,
Otaha, and Bolabola* (* These islands are now known as Huaheine, Raiatea,
Tahaa, and Borabora or Bolabola, and are under French sovereignty.)--we
were informed, lay only one or two days' sail to the Westward of George's
Island, and that we might there procure Hogs, Fowls, and other
refreshments, Articles that we have been very sparingly supply'd with at
this last Island, as the Ship's Company (what from the Constant hard duty
they have had at this place, and the two free use of Woman) were in a
worse state of health than they were on our first arrival, for by this
Time full half of them had got the Venerial disease, in which Situation I
thought they would be ill able to stand the Cold weather we might expect
to meet with to the Southward at this Season of the Year, and therefore
resolved to give them a little time to recover while we ran down to and
explored the Islands before-mentioned.

Tupia informs us that in the Months of November, December, and January
they have constant Westerly winds, with rain; also that the whole island
can muster 6780 Fighting Men, by which some judgment can be formed of the
number of inhabitants. Each district furnishes a certain number, which
the chief is obliged to bring into the field when summoned by the Eare
dehi, or King of the Island, either to make war or repell an invasion.*
(* This paragraph is added in Admiralty copy.)

[Historical Notes, Tahiti.]

Notes on Tahiti. The missionaries who came to Tahiti in 1797, in the
missionary ship Duff, and settled at Matavai, gathered many details of
the history and economy of the islands. It appears that the state of
society, though in many respects savage, had attained a certain pitch of
civilisation, especially with regard to government. There was generally a
head chief or king of the whole island, who governed after the feudal
manner by the sub-chiefs. The sovereignty was hereditary, with this
peculiarity, that the eldest son of the king became from his birth the
sovereign. The father governed henceforth as regent until the son was of
an age to take the reins in his own hands, when the father retired. This
was the idea; but, as may be imagined, it led to various complications
and difficulties, and wars between the different parts of the island and
the different chiefs were frequent.

When Wallis discovered the island, in June 1767, Amo was king, or
Arii-rahi (called by Cook Eare-dehi), Bereia (Cook's Obereia) being his
wife. The latter seems to have been a woman of much character, and to
have practically governed the island. The two were separated, inasmuch
that they had mutually contracted other alliances, but, according to the
custom of the country, without affecting their friendship.

On Wallis's appearance the warlike Tahitians at once attacked the
Dolphin, but were easily defeated, and the guns and small arms with which
they then for the first time made acquaintance had such an effect upon
them that they speedily made peace, and recognised the superiority of
Europeans.

The defeat had, however, a great effect on the prestige of Amo, whose
authority rapidly diminished. Tootaha, Amo's brother, and chief of the
district of Matavai, where the Dolphin anchored, was much enriched by her
visit, and became a greater man in the eyes of his compatriots.
Bougainville also touched at Tootaha's district; and although his two
ships only remained ten days, it was long enough to furnish this chief
with many more valuable and coveted articles.

In about December 1768, or six months before Cook's visit, war broke out
in the island, and Amo was totally defeated by the chief who governed the
eastern peninsula. Cook saw at Papara, on the south side of the main
island, the relics of this battle in the shape of many human bones.
Tootaha, who had joined in the war against his brother, became regent for
the son (Pomare) of another brother, Hapai, and was therefore the
principal man in the island when Cook appeared. Notwithstanding, when Amo
(whom Cook calls Oamo), came to visit the Europeans on 21st June,
bringing his young son, Temare, with him, the latter was carried on men's
shoulders, which was one of the ceremonial observances due to the Otou,
or young king, and the natives present recognised his royal character by
uncovering their shoulders.

Tupia (or Tupaia), who left the island with Cook, was the chief priest of
the island, and had been living with Bereia; but having shortly before
conspired to kill Tootaha, it is probable that he felt his life was
unsafe in the island.

Frequent wars raged in the island for many years after Cook's first
visit. Tootaha was killed in one of these, and when Cook again arrived,
in 1773, Pomare was king, though Cook only knew him by his title of Otou,
which he apparently still retained, though there was no regent.

In 1789 Captain Bligh called at Tahiti in the Bounty, to export young
bread-fruit trees to the West Indies. The delights of Tahiti probably had
their part in bringing about the well-known mutiny a few days after the
ship left; and on the return of the Bounty with her crew of mutineers,
sixteen of them remained on the island. These men took a leading part in
the continual dissensions in the island, until, in 1791, they were
carried off by the Pandora, sent with the object of capturing the
mutineers.

English missionaries came to Tahiti in 1797; but after twelve years'
residence, during which they made no progress, and were constantly in
danger from the frequent wars, they retreated to Sydney, in New South
Wales, leaving two only of their number in Huahine and Eimeo, two of the
Society Islands. Two years later, on the invitation of Pomare II, who
was, however, then expelled from Tahiti and living in Eimeo, some of them
returned, and Pomare became the first convert. Christianity rapidly
spread, and in 1815, Pomare having returned to Tahiti, he and his
Christian followers were attacked. The battle ended in the complete
victory of Pomare, and for the first time in the sanguinary history of
the island no butchery of the vanquished followed, nor any devastation of
the country. The principal idols were destroyed; and whether in
consequence of the surprise the natives felt at finding that no
retribution followed this sacrilege, or from gratitude at the clemency of
the victors, opposition to the new religion ceased, the whole island soon
became Christian, and the customs of the inhabitants were much changed.
In 1827 the British Government declined to accede to a request to throw
its protectorate over Tahiti.

In 1836 two French priests came to the island with the avowed intention
of proselytising. They were expelled; and after several visits of French
men-of-war, who came to obtain redress for this act, and an assurance of
free entrance for French subjects, the island was taken possession of by
a French squadron in 1843, and Queen Pomare, daughter of Pomare II, was
de facto deposed. The island has been ever since under the dominion of
France. Tahiti is now in a flourishing condition, and exports a
considerable quantity of cotton, cocoanuts, and vanilla.

The majority of the natives still profess the Protestant religion.

Papiete, a little westward of Matavai, is now the principal port and town
of the island, the harbour possessing some advantages over the latter.

The Tahitians are marvellously fond of singing and dancing, and still
retain their primitive and exceedingly free manners, and the custom of
decorating themselves with flowers.

The beauty of the island, with its neighbouring western group, is
probably unsurpassed, and, considering all the circumstances, it says
much for the discipline of the Endeavour that only two of her crew
attempted to remain in what seemed a Paradise.

Cook's efforts to make his men deal properly with the natives are well
illustrated by the following extract from Mr. Molineux's Log, of the 29th
April. The incident is not mentioned by Cook.

"Punished Hy. Jeffs, Seaman, with a dozen lashes for ill-behaviour on
shore. He had been rude to a man's wife yesterday, of which the Indian
complained, and Jeffs was confined immediately the Captain had the fact
plainly proved, and next morning the Captain invited the offended Parties
on board, who were ignorant of his intentions. All hands being called,
and the Prisoner brought aft, the Captain explained the nature of his
Crime in the most lively manner, and made a very Pathetick speech to the
Ship's Company during his punishment. The woman was in the greatest
agonies, and strongly interceded for him. The man's name was Tuburi and
his wife's name Tamide. I remember them both last Voyage. I should have
mentioned Tuburi being sorry to see Jeffs punished."

It is evident, from what Cook himself tells us (above), and from what is
now well known of the laxity of Tahitian morals, that this punishment
would seem excessive to the natives, and especially to the women, who
were accustomed themselves to bear whatever blame was bestowed.

Note. For full description of original Tahitian manners and customs, see
"Polynesian Researches," by W. Ellis (London, H.G. Bohn, 1853); "Iles
Taiti," par MM. Vincendon-Dumoulin et Chas. Desgraz (Paris, 1844).


CHAPTER 4. TAHITI TO NEW ZEALAND.

REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES AT SEA.

[July 1769.]

FRIDAY, July 14th. Gentle breezes at North-East and Clear weather. I have
before made mention of our departure from Royal Bay on the preceeding
forenoon, and likewise that I had determined to run down to Huaheine and
Ulietea* (* Raiatea.) before we stood to the Southward; but having
discovered, from the Hills of George's Island, an Island laying to the
Northward, we first stood that way to take a nearer View of it. This
Island is called Tethuroa.* (* Tetiaroa.) It lies North 1/2 West, distant
8 Leagues from Point Venus, and is a small, low, uninhabited Island,
frequented by the people of George's Island for fish, with which it is
said to abound. At 6 A.M. the Westermost part of York Island bore
South-East 1/2 South and the body of George's Island East 1/2 South.
Punished the 2 Marines who attempted to desert from us at George's Island
with 2 Dozen lashes each, and then released them from Confinement. At
Noon the body of York Island* (* Eimeo, or Murea.) bore East by South 1/2
South, Royal Bay South 70 degrees 45 minutes East, distant 61 Miles; and
an Island which we took to be Saunder's Island, discovered by Captain
Wallace (called by the Natives Topoamanan),* (* Tubuai Manu.) bore
South-South-West Latitude observed, 17 degrees 9 minutes South. Saw land
bearing North-West 1/2 West, which Tupia calls the Island of Huaheine.

Saturday, 15th. Light airs and Variable between the North and
West-South-West. Clear weather. At 6 p.m. York Island bore South-East,
and Huaheine West-North-West, and at 7 a.m. it bore West. Latitude
observed at Noon 16 degrees 50 minutes South. Royal Bay South 37 degrees
30 minutes East, distant 22 Leagues.

[At Huaheine.]

Sunday, 16th. Winds at South and South-South-East. A Gentle Breeze, with
some few showers of rain. At 6 p.m. the Island of Huaheine West 1/2
South, distant 7 or 8 leagues. At 8 a.m., being close in with the
North-West part of the Island, sounded, but had no ground with 80
fathoms. Some of the Natives came off to the Ship, but they were very shy
of coming near until they discover'd Tupia; but after that they came on
board without hesitation. Among those who came on board was the King of
the Island, whose name is Oree. He had not been long on board before he
and I exchanged Names, and we afterwards address'd each other
accordingly.* (* The Tahitians called Cook Tootee, which was their idea
of the sound of his name, with a vowel termination, none of their words
ending in a consonant.) At noon the North end of the Island bore South by
East 1/2 East, distant 72 Leagues. Latitude observed, 16 degrees 40
minutes South. Three other Islands in sight, namely, Ulietea, Otaha, and
Bolabola,* (* Tahaa and Borabora.) so called by the Natives.

Monday, 17th. Winds Southerly, fine pleasant weather. At 3 p.m. anchored
in a small Harbour on the West side of the Island called by the Natives
Owarhe, in 18 fathoms water, clear ground, and secure from all winds.
Soon after, I went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and
Dr. Monkhouse, Tupia, the King of the Island, and some others of the
Natives, who had been on board since the morning. The Moment we landed
Tupia stripped himself as low as his waist, and desir'd Mr. Monkhouse to
do the same. He then sat down before a great number of the Natives that
were collected together in a large Shed or House, the rest of us, by his
own desire, standing behind; he then begun a long speach or prayer, which
lasted near a Quarter of an Hour, and in the Course of this Speech
presented to the People two Handkerchiefs, a black silk Neckcloth, some
beads, and two very small bunches of Feathers. These things he had before
provided for that purpose. At the same time two Chiefs spoke on the other
side in answer to Tupia, as I suppose, in behalf of the People, and
presented us with some young Plantains plants, and 2 small bunches of
Feathers. These were by Tupia order'd to be carried on board the Ship.
After the Peace was thus concluded and ratified, every one was at liberty
to go where he pleased, and the first thing Tupia did was to go and pay
his Oblations at one of the Mories. This seem'd to be a common ceremony
with this people, and I suppose always perform'd upon landing on each
other's Territories in a peaceable manner. It further appear'd that the
things which Tupia gave away was for the God of this People, as they gave
us a Hog and some Cocoanuts for our God, and thus they have certainly
drawn us in to commit sacriledge, for the Hog hath already received
sentence of Death, and is to be dissected to-morrow. A.M. I set about
Surveying the Island, and Dr. Monkhouse, with some hands, went ashore to
Trade with the Natives, while the Long boat was employ'd compleating our
Water.

Tuesday, 18th. Gentle breezes at South and South-South-West. Clear
weather. The Trading party had no Success to-day. The Natives pretend
that they have not had time to collect their provisions from the
Differant parts of the Island, but that on the Morrow we should have
some; and as I had not seen so much of the Island as I desir'd, I
resolved to stay one day longer to see if anything was to be got.

Wednesday, 19th. P.M. Variable light Airs and clear weather. The Trading
party had better success to-day than Yesterday. A.M. a Gentle breeze at
South-East. As it was known to the Natives that we intended to sail
to-day, Oree, the Chief, and several more, came on board to take their
leave of us. To the Chief was given a small plate on which was Stamp'd
the following inscription--viz., "His Britannick Majesty's Ship,
Endeavour, Lieutenant Cook, Commander, 16th July, 1769, Huaheine." This
was accompanied with some Medals, or Counters, of the English Coins,
struck 1761, together with some other Presents. All these, but more
particularly the Plate, the Chief promised never to part with. This we
thought would prove as lasting a Testimony of our having first discover'd
this Island as any we could leave behind. After this was done they were
dismissed, and we began to prepare to leave the place. But as that falls
out on the following day, I shall conclude this with a Discription of the
Island, which is situated in the Latitude of 16 degrees 43 minutes South,
and Longitude 150 degrees 52 minutes West from Greenwich and North 58
degrees West, distance, 31 leagues, from King George's Island, or
Otaheite. It is about 7 Leagues in compass, and of a Hilly and uneven
surface. It hath a safe and commodious Harbour, which lies on the West
side, under the Northermost high land and within the North end of the
Reef which lays along that side of the Island. Into this Harbour are 2
inlets, or openings in the Reef, about 1 1/2 Miles from each other. The
Southermost is the Broadest, on the South side of which is a very small
sandy Island. This Harbour is called by the Natives Ohwarhe. The produce
of this Island is in all respects the same as King George's Island, and
the Manner and Customs of the inhabitants much the same, only that they
are not addicted to Stealing; and with respect to colour they are rather
fairer than the natives of George's Island, and the whole more Uniformly
of one Colour.

[At Raiatea.]

Thursday, 20th. Moderate breezes at East and East-North-East. Fair
weather. At 1/2 past 2 p.m. weighed and made Sail for the Island of
Ulietea, which lies South-West by West, Distance 7 or 8 leagues from
Huaheine. At 1/2 past 6 we were within 3 Leagues of it, then shortened
sail and stood off and on all night, and at daylight made Sail in shore,
and soon after discover'd an opening in the Reef that lies along this
side of the Island, within which, Tupia said, was a good Harbour. Upon
this I hoisted out the Pinnace, and sent the Master in to Examine it, who
soon made the Signal for the Ship to follow. Accordingly we stood in and
Anchor'd in 22 fathoms, soft ground. Soon after we Anchor'd some of the
Natives came on board the Ship with very little invitation.

Friday, 21st. Winds variable, and dark, cloudy weather, with frequent
Showers of rain. At 1 p.m. I landed in Company with Mr. Banks and the
other gentlemen. The first thing done was the performing of Tupia's
ceremony in all respects as at Huaheine. I then hoisted an English jack,
and took possession of the Island and those adjacent in the name of His
Britannick Majesty, calling them by the same names as the natives do.
A.M. sent the Master in the Long boat to examine the coast of the South
part of the Island, and one of the Mates in the Yawl to sound the Harbour
where the Ship lay, while I was employ'd in the Pinnace surveying the
Northern part of the Island, and Mr. Monkhouse went ashore to trade with
the Natives for such refreshments as were to be got.

Saturday, 22nd. P.M. the wind Variable with Showers of rain. A.M. strong
Gales at South and hazey with rain, and which continued the most part of

Sunday, 23rd, in so much that I did not think it safe to break the Ship
loose and put to sea as I intended.

Monday, 24th. Winds variable from South-South-East to North-East. At 8
a.m. got under sail and plyed to the Northward within the Reef, in order
to go out at the Northern Channell, it being the broadest; but being
little wind and meeting with Shoals we had not before discovered, we
turned down but slowly.

Tuesday, 25th. First part, little wind at North-East; in the night calm,
A.M. a fresh breeze at West-North-West, fair weather. At 3 p.m. Anchor'd
in 22 fathoms Muddy bottom, the North Channell open bearing North-East
1/2 East, at 5 a.m. a breeze sprung up at North-West, weighed and put to
Sea, and hauled to the Northward in order to take a View of the Island
and Ataha and Bolabola; but before I proceed farther, I shall describe
the Harbour we have been in.* (* It has no particular name, but extends
the whole of the eastern side of Raiatea.) This Harbour, taken in its
greatest Extent, is capable of holding any number of Shipping in perfect
security, as it extends almost the whole length of this side of the
Island, and is defended from the Sea by a reef of Coral rocks; the
Southermost opening* (* Teava Moa Pass.) in this reef or Channell into
the Harbour, which is not more than a Cable's length wide, is off the
Eastermost point of the Island, and may be known by a small woody Island,
which lies a little to the South-East of it. Between 3 and 4 miles
North-West from this Island lies 2 other small Islands, and in the same
direction as the reef, of which they are a part. Between these 2 Islands
is another Channell* (* Iriru Pass.) into the Harbour that is a full
Quarter of a Mile broad; still further to the North-West are some other
small Islands, where, I am informed, is another small inlet, but this I
did not see; but, as to the other 2, we enter'd the Harbour by the one
and came out by the other.

The principal refreshments we have got here consists in Plantains, Cocoa
nuts, some Yams and a few Hogs and fowls. This side of the Island is
neither Populous nor Rich in Produce, if compared to George's Island, or
even Huaheine; however, here is no want of refreshments for a ship who
may put in here and stay but a short time; and wood and water may be got
everywhere, tho' the latter is not very convenient to come at.

[Off Bolabola.]

Wednesday, 26th. Winds at West by North and West by South, but very
Variable towards the Latter part. At 4 p.m. the North End of Ulietea
South 75 degrees West, distance 2 leagues, and the south end of Otaha
North 77 degrees West. About a League to the Northward of the South end
of Otaha, on the East side of the Island, a mile or more from the Shore,
lies 2 Small Islands. Between these Islands Tupia says there is a
Channell into a very good harbour which lies within the Reef and it had
all the appearance of such. Keept plying to Windward all night without
getting any ground. At Noon the Peak on Bolabola West by South. Latitude
observed 16 degrees 26 minutes South.

Thursday, 27th. Variable light Airs of wind in the South-West Quarter,
and fair weather. Seeing that there is a broad Channell between Otaha and
Bolabola, I intend to go through that way and not run to the Northward of
all; but as the wind is right an end, and very Variable withall, we get
little or no ground. Between 5 and 6 o'Clock p.m., as we were standing to
the Northward, we discover'd a small low Island lying North by West or
North-North-West distant 4 or 5 Leagues from Bolabola. This Island is
called Tubai. Tupia says it produces nothing but a few Cocoa Nuts, that
there are only 3 families live upon it, but that the people from these
Islands resort thither to Catch fish. At Noon the peak of Bolabola bore
North 25 degrees West, and the north end of Otaha North 80 degrees West,
distant 3 Leagues. Latitude observed 16 degrees 38 minutes South.

Friday, 28th. Little wind and Variable between the South-West and
North-West. At 6 a.m., being near the Entrance of the Harbour which lies
on the East side of Otaha before mentioned,* (* Hamene Bay.) and finding
that it might be examin'd without loosing time, I sent away the Master in
the Long boat, with orders to sound the Harbour, and if the wind did not
shift in our favour to land upon the Island and to Traffick with the
Natives for such refreshments as were to be got. Mr. Banks and Dr.
Solander went along with him.

Saturday, 29th. Little wind and Variable. Kept plying on and off this
day, waiting for the return of the Long boat. At 1/2 past 5 not seeing
anything of her, fir'd a Gun for her to return, and as soon as it was
dark hoisted a light. At 1/2 past 8 heard the report of a musquet, which
we answered with a Gun; and soon after the Boat came on board with 3
small Hogs, a few Fowls, and a large Quantity of Plantains, and some
Yams. They found the Natives very Sociable and ready to part with
anything they had, and the Harbour safe and Commodious, with a good
Anchorage in 25, 20, and 16 fathoms clear ground. As soon as the Boat was
hoisted in we made Sail to the Northward, and at 8 o'Clock a.m. were
close under the Peak of Bolabola, but as we could not weather the Island,
we Tack'd and stood off until near Noon, then Tack'd again and stood to
the South-West. At Noon the Peak of Bolabola bore South 75 degrees West;
we were then distant from the Shore under it 2 or 3 miles, and from the
Peak about 5 miles. Latitude observed 16 degrees 29 minutes South.

Sunday, 30th. Wind in the South-East Quarter. At first a Gentle breeze,
but afterwards freshned upon us. P.M. made several Trips before we could
weather the South end of Bolabola, which at last we accomplished between
7 and 8 o'Clock, and stood off South-South-West until 12 at night, then
Tack'd and stood in until 4 a.m., then stood off again; but meeting with
a large swell from the Southward, against which the Ship made little or
no way, at 8 we tack'd and stood in Shore again. At this time we
discovered an Island which bore from us North 63 degrees West, distant
about 8 Leagues: at the same time the Peak of Bolabola bore North 1/2
East, distance 3 or 4 Leagues. This Island Tupia calls Maurua, and
according to his account it is but small, and surrounded by a Reef of
Rocks, and hath no Harbour fit for Shipping. It is inhabited, and its
produce is the same as the other Islands we have touched at. It riseth in
a high round hill in the middle of the Island, which may be seen 10
Leagues. At noon the South end of Otaha bore North 80 degrees East,
distance 4 Leagues. Latitude observed 16 degrees 39 minutes South.

Monday, 31st. Fresh Gales in the South-East Quarter, and close, cloudy
weather. Plying to windward all this day, on the South-West side of
Otaha, without gaining little or anything. In the middle watch was
obliged to double reef our Topsails, but in the morning it fell moderate,
and we crowded all the sail we could. At Noon the South end of Otaha bore
East, distance 2 Leagues. Latitude observed 16 degrees 40 minutes South.
Tupia told us there was a very good Harbour within the Reef which lies on
this side of Otaha; but this Harbour I shall discribe in another place.

[August 1769. At Raiatea.]

Tuesday, August 1st. A fresh Gale at South-East the most part of this
day. Keept plying to windward all the afternoon and night, and in the
morning found ourselves nearly the length of the South end of Ulietea,
and to windward of some Harbours that lay on the West side of this
Island. Into one of them I intended to go with the Ship, in order to stop
a Leak in the Powder room, which could not be easily done at Sea, and to
take in more Ballast, as I found her too light to carry sail upon a wind.
At Noon plying off one of the Harbour's mouth, the wind being right out.

Wednesday, 2nd. Moderate breezes at South-East and East, with some
Showers of Rain. At 3 p.m. anchor'd in the Entrance of the Channell
leading into the Harbour* (* Rautoanui.) in 14 fathoms water; found a
tide setting pretty strong out, which was the reason that we could not
work in; carried out the Kedge Anchor in order to warp into the Harbour,
but after this was done we could not Trip the Bower Anchor with all the
purchass we could make, and was therefore obliged to lay still all night,
but in the morning we did it with Ease, and warped the Ship into a proper
birth, and moor'd in 28 fathoms, a sandy bottom. A great many of the
Natives came off to us both last night and this morning, and brought with
them Hogs, Fowls, Plaintains, etc., which they parted with at a very easy
rate.

Thursday, 3rd. Winds from East-South-East to North-East; very Hot weather
this afternoon. I went ashore to look for a place to get stones for
Ballast, and a watering place, both of which I found very convenient; and
in the morning sent an Officer a Shore to Superintend the getting off the
Ballast and Water, and I went in the Pinnace to the Northward to survey
that part of the Island, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, while
the Carpenters were employ'd on board stopping the Leaks of the Powder
room and Foresail room.

Friday, 4th. First and Latter parts, moderate breezes, at
East-North-East; in the night, Calm, Hot, and sultry. In our rout to the
Northward this afternoon we were entertained at one place with Musick and
Dancing. The Musick consisted of 3 Drums, and the Dancing was mostly
perform'd by 2 Young Women and one Man, and this seem'd to be their
profession. The dress of the women was such as we had not seen before; it
was neat, decent, and well chose, and in many respects not much unlike a
European dress; only their Arms, Necks, and Shoulders were bare, and
their headdress was the Tomow stuck with Flowers. They made very little
use of their feet and Legs in Dancing, but one part or another of their
bodies were in continual motion and in various postures, as standing,
setting, and upon their Hands and knees, making strange Contorsions.
Their Arms, hands, and Fingers they moved with great Agility and in a
very Extraordinary manner, and altho' they were very exact in observing
the same motion in all their movements, yet neither their Musick or
Dancing were at all Calculated to please a European. There were likewise
some men, who acted a kind of a Farce; but this was so short that we
could gather nothing from it, only that it shew'd that these People have
a Notion of Dramatick performances, and some of our Gentlemen saw them
act a Farce the next day, wherein was 4 Acts, and it seem'd to them to
represent a War between the Bolabola men and those of Ulietea, wherein
the former triumph'd over the latter; but what might help them to draw
this Conclusion was the knowing that such a thing has not long ago hapned
between these 2 People, and that the Bolabola men at present possess most
of the Lands on this Island. This is their grand Dramatick Heiva, and I
believe is occasionally performed in all the Islands. Upon my return to
the Ship in the evening I found that they had got on board 20 Tuns of
Ballast, and this I thought would be sufficient. In the morning we sent
all our water Casks on shore, and got them all off full by Noon. This
morning I received a present from Opoony, the Eare dehi of Bolabola, who
at this time was upon this Island. It consisted of 3 Hogs, some pieces of
Cloth, Plantains, Cocoa Nuts, etc. These were sent by his Servants, and I
was told that he would come the next day himself.

Saturday, 5th. This evening we bought as much Fish as the whole Ship's
Company could destroy while good. In the morning I sent the Master to the
North End of the Island with the Long boat to Traffick with the Natives
for Provisions, as they did not bring it to the Ship, as they had
hitherto done; and myself, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander,
went in the Pinnace to the Southern part of the Island, partly on the
same account and partly to Examine that part of the Island. In our rout
we passed thro' 2 Harbours equally as good as the one in which the Ship
lays, but the Country about them is poorer and but thinly inhabited, and
we got no one thing worth bringing home with us, but the Master succeeded
something better.

Sunday, 6th. Variable light Airs and fair weather. A.M. I sent the Master
again to the Northward to procure refreshments, who return'd not
unsuccessfull. Opoony, the Chief, sent some of his people this morning to
me to get something in return for the present he sent the other day; he
not choosing, as I suppose, to trust himself on board, or perhaps he
thought the persons he sent (who were 3 very pretty young Girls) would
succeed better than he should do. Be this as it may, they went away very
well satisfied with what they got, altho' I believe that they were
disappointed in some things.

Monday, 7th. Variable light Airs. P.M. some Showers of rain. Being
desirous to see King Opoony, we made a party this afternoon and I went
ashore for that purpose, carrying along with us a small present. Upon our
landing he did not receive us setting, as all the other Chiefs had
hitherto done, or in any manner of Form; this we attributed to his
Stupidity, for such he appeared to be. However, he gave me a Hog in
return for the present I made him, and this was paying us full as great a
Complement. Before we took our leave we let him know that we should go to
Otaha in the morning in our Boats, and would be glad to have him along
with us, and he accordingly promised to accompany us thither.
Accordingly, very early in the morning, I set out with both Pinnace and
Long boat for Otaha, and some of the Gentlemen along with me; and in our
way called upon Opoony, who was in his Canoe ready to set out. As soon as
we landed on Otaha I made him a present of a Axe; this I thought would
induce him to incourage his Subjects to bring us such Provisions as we
wanted, but I believe we had already got all they intended us, for after
staying with him until Noon we were obliged to go away without geting any
one thing.

Tuesday, 8th. After leaving Opoony we proceeded towards the North point
of the Island, and in our way pick'd up half a Dozen Hogs, as many Fowls,
and some Plantains and Yams; and I had an opportunity to view and draw a
Sketch of the Harbour which lies on this Side of the Island, and which
was the only thing that induced me to make this Excursion. After it was
dark we met with the Longboat, which I had in the morning dispatch'd to
another part of the Island; and we now made the best of our way to the
Ship and got on board about 10 at night. The Carpenter having finished
stopping the Leaks about the Powder Room and Sailroom I now intend to
sail as soon as ever the wind will permit us to get out of the Harbour.

Wednesday, 9th. P.M. had a light breeze of wind at North; in the night
had much rain. A.M. little wind and Variable, with some Showers of rain.
At 11 a.m. a breeze of wind sprung up at East, which carried us out of
the Harbour, and as soon as the Boats were hoisted in made Sail to the
Southward. Since we have been about these Islands we have expended but
little of our Sea Provisions, and have at this last place been very
plentifully supply'd with Hogs, Fowls, Plantains, and Yams, which will be
of very great use to us in case we should not discover any lands in our
rout to the Southward, the way I now intend to Steer.

[Description of Society Islands.]

DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS, ULIETEA, OTAHA AND BOLABOLA.

So called by the Natives, and it was not thought adviseable to give them
any other Names; but these three, with Huaheine, Tuibai, and Maurua, as
they lay contigious to one another, I have named Society Isles.

They are situated between the Latitude of 16 degrees 10 minutes and 16
degrees 55 minutes South and between the Longitude 151 degrees 00 minutes
and 151 degrees 42 minutes West from the Meridian of Greenwich. Ulietea
and Otaha lay close to each other, and are both inclosed within a Reef of
Coral Rocks; and altho' the distance between the one and the other is
near 2 Miles, yet there is no Passage for Shipping. By means of this reef
are form'd several excellent Harbours. The entrance into them are but
narrow, but when a Ship is once in nothing can hurt her. Those on the
East side have been already described. On the West side of Ulietea, which
is the largest Island of the 2, are 3, the Northermost of which, called
Oraotanue,* (* Rautoanui.) we lay in, the Channell leading in is a 1/4 of
a Mile wide and lies between 2 low sandy Islands, which are the
Northermost small Islands on this side. You have good Anchorage between
or just within the 2 Islands in 28 fathoms soft ground. This harbour,
tho' but small, yet it is preferable to any on the Island, on account of
the easy getting of fresh Water, and being seated in the most fertile
part of the Island. The other 2 harbours lay to the Southward of this,
and not far from the South end of the Island. In both of them are good
Anchorage in 10, 12, and 14 fathoms water: they are readily known by 3
small woody Islands that lay at their entrance, the Southermost Harbour
lies within and to the Southward of the Southermost Island, and the other
lies between the Northermost. There are more Harbours at the South End of
this Island, as I am inform'd, but these were not examind by us.

Otaha affords 2 very good Harbours, one on the East and the other on the
West side; that on the East side called Ohamane* (* Hamene.) hath been
already mentioned, the other is called Oharurua* (* Hurepiti.) and lies
about the middle of the South-West side of the Island. It is pretty
large, and affords good Anchorage in 20 and 25 fathoms, and there is no
want of fresh Water. The breach in the Reef which forms a Channell into
this harbour is 1/4 of a mile broad, steep too, on both sides, and the
same may be said of all the others, and in general there is no danger but
what is Visible.

The Island of Bolabola lies North-West by West from Otaha, distant 4
Leagues, it is incompassed by a reef of Rocks and several small Islands,
and the Circuit of the whole appear'd to be about 8 Leagues. On the
South-West side of the Islands (as I am inform'd) is an opening in the
Reef which admits of a Channell into a very good Harbour. This Island is
very remarkable on account of a high Craggy hill upon it, which
Terminates at Top in 2 Peaks, one higher than the other; this hill is so
perpendicular that it appears to be quite inaccessible. The land on
Ulietea and Otaha is of a very hilly, broken, and uneven surface, except
what borders upon the Sea Coast, and high withall, yet the Hills look
green and pleasant and are in many places cloathed with woods.

The Produce of these Islands, and manners and Customs of the Natives are
much the same as at King George's Island, only as the Bread fruit Tree is
here in not such plenty, the natives to supply that deficiency plant and
Cultivate a greater Quantity of Plantains and Yams of several sorts, and
these they have in the greatest Perfection.

The inhabitants are rather of a fairer Colour than the Generality of the
Natives of George's Island, but more especially the Women, who are much
fairer and handsomer, and the Men are not so much Addicted to thieving,
and are more Open and free in their behaviour.

The only differance we could see in their Religion was in the Houses of
their Gods, which were very different to those we saw on George's Island.
Those here were made about the Size and shape of a Coffin open at one
End; they are laid upon a Number of small Wooden Arches, which are fram'd
and fastned together like the Roof of a House, and these are generally
supported about 3 or 4 feet above the ground by Posts. Over the box is a
small roof or shade made of Palm thatch; in this Box are deposited the
Oblations of the Gods, such as Pieces of Cloth, Human bone, etc., and
these places they hold sacred, and some are placed in their Mories, and
some not. They have a Custom of preserving the Sculls and under Jaw bones
of the Dead, but wether of their Friends or Enemies I cannot pretend to
say. Several of the Sculls, we observed, were broke, and its very
probable that the owners of them had been kill'd in battle, as some of
their Weapons are well Calculated for breaking of Heads; and from what we
could learn it is a Custom with them to cut out the Lower jaw of their
Enemies, but I believe not before they are kill'd, and these they keep as
Trophies, and are sometimes hung up in their Houses.

The Chief or King of Bolabola hath of late Years Usurped the Sovereignty
of the other two, and the Bolabola men at this time possess great part of
the Lands on Ulietea and Otaha that they have taken from the Natives. The
Lands adjoining to the Harbours of Oraotanue belong'd to Tupia, the
Person we have on board, who is a Native of Ulietea. These people are
very ingenious in building their Proes or Canoes, and seem to take as
much Care of them, having large Shades or Houses to put them in, built
for the purpose, and in these houses they likewise build and repair them,
and in this they shew a great deal of ingenuity far more than one could
expect. They are built full Bellied, and after the very same Model as
those Six we saw on George's Island, which I have already described, and
some of them are full as large; it is more than probable that these 6
Proes were built at some of these Islands. In these Proes, or Pahies as
they call them, from all the accounts we can learn, these people sail in
those Seas from Island to Island for several hundred Leagues, the Sun
serving them for a Compass by day, and the Moon and Stars by night. When
this comes to be proved, we shall be no longer at a loss to know how the
Islands lying in those Seas came to be peopled; for if the inhabitants of
Ulietea have been at Islands laying 2 or 300 Leagues to the Westward of
them, it cannot be doubted but that the inhabitants of those Western
Islands may have been at others as far to Westward of them, and so we may
trace them from Island to Island quite to the East Indies.

Tupia tells us that during the months of November, December, and January
Westerly winds, with rain, prevail; and as the inhabitants of the Islands
know very well how to make the proper use of the winds, there will no
difficulty arise in Trading or Sailing from Island to Island, even tho'
they lie in an East and West direction.* (* This paragraph is from the
Admiralty copy of Cook's Journal. This fact is now well known. The
islands here described, the Society Islands of Cook, and now known as the
Leeward Group of the Society Islands, were generally under the dominion
of Tahiti. At the time of Cook's visit, the chief of Bolabola was supreme
over most of the group, and their tie to Tahiti was but slight. They are
all very beautiful and fertile. Within the last decade they have formally
been recognised as belonging to France.)

[Sail from Society Islands.]

REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES IN THE SOUTH SEAS.

Thursday, August 10th. P.M., Light Airs and Calm, remainder fresh breezes
and Cloudy. At 6 p.m. the South end of Ulietea South-East 1/2 East,
distant 4 Leagues; but I take my departure from the
Harbour, saild from in Latitude 16 degrees 46 minutes South, and
Longitude 151 degrees 27 minutes West. At 7 a.m. found the Variation to
be 5 degrees 50 minutes East. Wind Easterly; course South 16 degrees
West; distance 50 miles; Latitude observed 17 degrees 34 minutes South,
longitude 151 degrees 41 minutes West.

Friday, 11th. Fresh breezes and Clear weather. Wind East; course South 4
degrees West; distance 85 miles; latitude 18 degrees 59 minutes South,
longitude 151 degrees 45 minutes West.

Saturday, 12th. Gentle breezes and fair weather. Wind East, East by
North; course South 3/4 East; distance 77 miles; latitude 20 degrees 15
minutes South, longitude 151 degrees 36 minutes West.

Sunday, 13th. Moderate breezes and Clear weather. Variation 5 degrees 40
minutes East. Wind East by North; course South 16 degrees East; distance
96 miles; latitude 21 degrees 47 minutes South, longitude 151 degrees 9
minutes West.

Monday, 14th. Fresh breezes and fair weather. At 2 p.m. saw land bearing
South-East, which Tupia calls the Island of Ohetiroa.* (* Rurutu, one of
the Tubuai or Austral Group. They are now under French protectorate.) At
6 was within 2 or 3 Leagues of it, the Extreams bearing from South by
East to South-East; shortned sail and stood off and on all night; at 6
a.m. made Sail and stood in for the Land and run to Leeward of the
Island, keeping close in shore all the time, saw several of the Natives
as we run along shore, but in no great numbers. At 9 hoisted out the
Pinnace and sent Lieutenant Gore, Mr. Banks, and Tupia to Endeavour to
land upon the Island, and to speak with the Natives, and to try if they
could learn from them what lands lay to the Southward of us, and likewise
to see if there was Anchorage in a Bay which appear'd to our View, not
that I intended to Anchor or make any stay here. Wind North-North-East;
latitude 22 degrees 26 minutes South, longitude 150 degrees 55 minutes
West; at noon, Ohetiroa East 2 leagues.

Tuesday, 15th. Fresh breezes and fair weather. At 2 p.m. the Pinnace
return'd on board without landing, not but what it was practicable, but
they did not think it Altogether safe with only one Boat, as it would
have been attended with some danger on account of the Surf and Rocks upon
the Shore. The Natives were Arm'd, and Shewd no Signs either of fear or
Friendship. Some of them came off to the Boat in a Canoe, and had some
Nails and Beads given them; but with these they were not Satisfied,
thinking they had a right to everything in the Boat, and at last grew so
Troublesome that in order to get clear of them our People were obliged to
fire some Musquets, but with no intent to hurt any of them; however, it
so hapned that one Man was Slightly wounded in the head. The firing had
the desired effect, and they thought fit to retire. After this, as the
Boat lay near the Shore, some of them waded off to her, and brought with
them some Trifles which they parted with for small Nails, etc. They
seem'd desirous that our people should land, but this was looked upon as
a Piece of Policy in them to get the whole Boat's Crew in their power;
however, this was not attempted, as I had given orders to run no Risk.
The Bay they went into, which lies on the West side of the Island, had in
it 25 fathoms Water, but the bottom was very foul and Rocky. We had now
made the Circuit of the Island (which did not appear to the best
advantage), and found that there was neither a Harbour or safe Anchorage
about it, and therefore I thought the Landing upon it would be attended
with no advantage either to ourselves or any future navigators; and from
the Hostile and thievish disposition of the Natives it appear'd that we
could have no friendly intercourse with them until they had felt the
Smart of our fire Arms, a thing that would have been very unjustifiable
in me at this Time; we therefore hoisted in the Boat, and made Sail to
the Southward.

[Of the Austral Group.]

This Island is situated in the Latitude of 22 degrees 27 minutes South,
and in the Longitude of 150 degrees 47 minutes West from the Meridian of
Greenwich.* (* Latitude is correct. Longitude 151 degrees 20 minutes
West.) It is 13 miles in Circuit, and tolerably high; it appears to be
neither Populous nor fertile; its produce seem'd to be nearly the same as
the other Islands we have touched at, and likewise the Stature, Colour,
Habit, and Arms of the Natives, only that some of them wore Pieces of
Cloth like broad belts, different both in Shape and Colour to anything of
the kind we had seen before, and their Arms, and in general everything
they had about them, much neater made, and shew'd great proofs of an
ingenious fancy. Tupia says that their are several Islands laying at
different directions from this--that is, from the South to the West and
North-West--and that 3 days' sail to the North-East is an Island called
Manua, that is Bird Island, and that it lies 4 days' sail from Ulietea,
which is one day less than from Ulietea to Ohetiroa.* (* Tupia was right
except with respect to Manua, as there is no island answering his
description.) From this account I shall be able to find the Situation of
Manua pretty well. Since we have left Ulietea Tupia hath been very
desirous for us to steer to the Westward, and tells us if we will go that
way we shall be with plenty of Islands: the most of them he himself hath
been at, and from the discription he gives of two of them they must be
those discover'd by Capt. Wallace, and by him called Boscawen and
Keppel's Islands, and those do not lay less than 400 Leagues to the
Westward of Ulietea. He says that they are 10 or 12 days in going
thither, and 30 or more in coming Back, and that their Pahies--that is
their large Proes--sails much faster than this Ship. All this I believe
to be true, and therefore they may with Ease sail 40 Leagues a day or
more.

The farthest Island to the Southward that Tupia hath been at, or knows
anything of, lies but 2 days' Sail from Ohetiroa, and is called Moutou,*
(* Tubuai.) but he says that his father once told him that there was
Islands to the Southward of it; but we Cannot find that he either knows
or ever heard of a Continent or large Track of Land. I have no reason to
doubt Tupia's information of these Islands, for when we left Ulietea and
steer'd to the Southward he told us that if we would keep a little more
to the East (which the wind would not permit us to do) we should see
Manua, but as we then steer'd we should see Ohetiroa, which hapned
accordingly. If we meet with the Islands to the Southward he speaks off,
it's well, but if not, I shall spend no more time searching for them,
being now fully resolv'd to stand directly to the Southward in search of
a Continent. Wind Northerly; course South 1/2 East; distance 94 miles;
latitude 24 degrees 1 minute South, longitude 150 degrees 37 minutes
West; at noon, Ohetiroa North 1/2 West, 31 leagues; variation 6 degrees 7
minutes East.

NOTE. As we advanced to the Southward into Cold weather, and a troubled
Sea, the Hogs we got at Ulietea began to die apace. They cannot endure
the least cold, nor will they hardly eat anything but vegetables, so that
they are not at all to be depended upon at Sea. The fowls also have a
complaint general among them which affects their heads, so that they
continue holding it down betwixt their Legs until they die; this at least
was the fate of most of ours. This is necessary to be known to those who
come such Voyages as these, least they place too much dependance on the
live stock they get at the Islands.

Wednesday, 16th. Fresh breezes and Cloudy the first part; in the night,
Squally, with rain; remainder, moderate and fair weather. At 8 am, saw
the Appearances of high land to the Eastward; bore up towards it, but at
10 we discover'd it to be only Clouds, at which we hauld our wind to the
Southward. At Noon found the Ship by Observation 21 Miles to the
Northward of the Log, which may in some measure be owing to a South-West
swell we have had all the last 24 hours. Wind North by West, West, West
by South; course South 15 degrees East; distance 62 miles; latitude 25
degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 150 degrees 19 minutes West.

Thursday, 17th. A Gentle breeze with some flying showers of rain. Had a
large Swell from the South-West all this day, much larger than yesterday,
and this must be the reason why the observ'd Latitude differ'd from the
Log again to day 16 miles. Wind West by South to South-West by South;
course South-South-East; distance 76 miles; latitude 26 degrees 10
minutes South, longitude 149 degrees 46 minutes West.

Friday, 18th. The first part Calm; remainder light breezes and Clear.
Variation per Amplitude in the evening 8 degrees 8 minutes East; in the
Morning 7 degrees 56 minutes East. Carpenters employed repairing the
Boats. The South-West swell still Continues, but not so much as
Yesterday, and the observed Latitude and Log agrees. Wind Calm, North;
course South 18 degrees East; distance 38 miles; latitude 26 degrees 48
minutes South, longitude 149 degrees 42 minutes West.

Saturday, 19th. Little wind with much rain in the night, the South-West
swell still Continues, from which I conclude that there is no land near
us in that Quarter. Wind North-West; course South-East by South; distance
62 miles; latitude 27 degrees 40 minutes South; longitude 149 degrees 6
minutes West.

Sunday, 20th. Little wind all this day. Saw a large Albetross. Wind
North-West; course South-East by South; distance 57 miles; latitude 28
degrees 24 minutes South, longitude 148 degrees 25 minutes West.

Monday, 21st. Fresh Gales and Hazey weather. Saw 2 Pintado Birds, the
first I have seen this Voyage; they are larger than a Pidgeon and
checquer'd black and white over their backs and wings, with white
Bellies, Black heads, and the end of their Tails black.* (* Cape pigeons,
Daption Capensis.) Wind North-North-West; course South by East; distance
80 miles; latitude 29 degrees 44 minutes South, longitude 148 degrees 22
minutes West.

[Society Islands to New Zealand.]

Tuesday, 22nd. First part Strong Gales with much rain, Thunder, and
Lightning; remainder moderate and fair weather. About Noon saw some rock
weed, an Albetross, and some Smaller Sea Birds. Wind North by West,
South-West by West; course South 14 degrees East; distance 81 miles;
latitude 31 degrees 3 minutes South, longitude 148 degrees 00 minutes
West.

Wednesday, 23rd. Little wind for the most part, and pretty clear weather.
In the night had some Showers of rain. Saw a Grampus, and several Pintado
Birds. Wind South-West to West-South-West; course South-South-East;
distance 68 miles; latitude 31 degrees 6 minutes South; longitude 147
degrees 29 minutes West.

Thursday, 24th. The first part light Airs and Calm; Middle, moderate
breezes and Cloudy; latter part very squally with rain. A.M. Variation
per Azimuth 7 degrees 18 minutes East. At Noon took in the Topsails and
got down Topgallant yards. Saw a Water Spout in the North-West; it was
about the breadth of a Rainbow, of a dark Colour, the Upper end of the
Cloud from whence it came was about 8 degrees above the Horizon. Wind
Variable; course South-South-East; distance 41 miles; latitude 32 degrees
44 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 10 minutes West.

Friday, 25th. The first and middle part Strong Gales and Squally with
rain, remainder moderate and Cloudy. P.M. Unbent the Maintopsail being
Split and bent another; in the night lay too under the Foresail, and in
the morning made sail under the Courses and Topsails with one reef only.
Had a large Sea from the Southward, saw several Albetrosses, Pintado
Birds, and Sheer Waters; some of the Albetrosses were small, such as we
usually saw off Cape Horn; all these kinds of birds are generally seen at
a great distance from land. Wind, Southerly; course North-West; distance
26 miles; latitude 32 degrees 26 minutes South; longitude 147 degrees 32
minutes West.

Saturday, 26th. Moderate and cloudy weather, a Swell from the South-West.
By observation of the Sun and Moon made this morning, the Longitude of
the Ship at Noon is 147 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds, which differs but
11 minutes from that given by the Log. Wind South-West; course South 6
degrees East; South distance 13 miles; latitude 32 degrees 39 minutes
South, longitude 147 degrees 30 minutes West.

Sunday, 27th. First part little wind and Cloudy; latter part, fresh Gales
and Clear weather. Variation per Azimuth 6 degrees 40 minutes East. Saw
several Albetrosses, Pintado Birds and Sheer Waters. Wind West,
North-North-West; course South 5 degrees East; distance 55 miles;
latitude 33 degrees 34 minutes, longitude 147 degrees 25 minutes.

Monday, 28th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy, with rain on the Latter part. At 10
departed this Life Jno. Rearden,* (* John Reading.) Boatswain's Mate; his
Death was occasioned by the Boatswain out of mere good Nature giving him
part of a Bottle of Rum last night, which it is supposed he drank all at
once. He was found to be very much in Liquor last night, but as this was
no more than what was common with him when he could get any, no farther
notice was taken of him than to put him to Bed, where this morning about
8 o'clock he was found Speechless and past recovery. Wind Northerly;
course South; distance 110 miles; latitude 35 degrees 34 minutes South,
longitude 147 degrees 25 minutes West.

Tuesday, 29th. Fore and Middle parts fresh Gales and Dark, Hazey weather
with some rain. At 5 a.m. saw a Comet in the North. Wind North-West to
South-West; course South 1/4 East; distance 96 miles; latitude 37 degrees
0 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 21 minutes West.

Wednesday, 30th. Fresh breeze and fair weather. At 1 a.m. saw the Comet a
little above the Horizon in the East. It pass'd the Meridian about 1/2
past 4; the Tail of the Comet Subtended an Angle of 42 degrees. At 8 a.m.
Variation per Azimuth 7 degrees 9 minutes East. Bent another suit of
Sails. Saw a piece of Rock weed, Some Pintado birds and Sheer Waters and
a Green bird something smaller than a Dove, but it was not near enough to
distinguish whether it was a Sea or Land bird; it was only seen by one
Person, and he probably was Mistaken in the Colour. A Swell from the
South-West, Wind Westerly; course South 3/4 East; distance 81 miles;
latitude 38 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 6 minutes
West.

Thursday, 31st. The first part a fresh breeze and cloudy. At 6 p.m. hauld
the wind to the South-West and close reefd the Topsails. At 1 a.m. being
very squally with rain, took in the Topsails and brought too under the
Mainsail. At 6 made Sail under the Courses. Saw some seaweed, sounded,
but had no ground at 65 fathoms of Line. Some Albetrosses, Sheer Waters,
and a great many Pintado Birds about the Ship with some hundreds of Birds
that were smaller than Pidgeons, their backs were grey, their Bellies
white, and the ends of their Tails black, and have a blackish line along
the upper parts of the wings from the Tip of one to the other. We saw
birds very like those near Faulklands Islands on the Coast of Patagonia,
only they had not the black streak along the wings; they fly low like
sheer waters or mother Carys birds, and are perhaps of the same Tribe,
for Distinction sake I shall call them Doves.* (* Probably petrels of the
genus Prion.) Wind Westerly; course South 4 degrees 15 minutes East;
distance 68 miles; latitude 39 degrees 28 minutes South, longitude 147
degrees 0 minutes West.

[September 1769.]

Friday, September 1st. Very strong Gales and heavy Squalls with rain; at
6 p.m. brought too under the Main Sail. At 6 a.m. set the Foresail, a
Great Sea from the Westward. The same sort of Birds about the Ship as
Yesterday, but not in such great Numbers. Wind, Westerly; Course, South
29 degrees East; distance 50 miles; latitude 40 degrees 12 minutes South,
longitude 146 degrees 29 minutes West.

Saturday, 2nd. Very strong Gales, with heavy squalls of Wind, hail, and
rain. At 4 p.m., being in the Latitude of 40 degrees 22 minutes South,
and having not the least Visible signs of land, we wore, and brought too
under the Foresail, and reef'd the Mainsail, and handed it. I did intend
to have stood to the Southward if the winds had been Moderate, so long as
they continued Westerly, notwithstanding we had no prospect of meeting
with land, Rather than stand back to the Northward, on the same Track as
we came, but as the weather was so very Tempestious I laid aside this
design, and thought it more adviseable to stand to the Northward into
better weather, least we should receive such Damage in our Sails and
Rigging as might hinder the further Prosecutions of the Voyage.* (* This
long excursion to the south is a fine instance of Cook's thoroughness and
determination in exploration. The belief in a southern continent was
strong amongst most geographers; but it rested on nothing more than the
false idea that dry lands in the two hemispheres should balance one
another. Cook himself did not share the general belief; and few others in
his position would have struggled for 1500 miles out of his direct course
into bad weather, simply to disprove an idea, when so much unexplored
ocean lay before him to the westward, with a fair wind and fine weather.)
Some Albetrosses, Pintado birds, and Doves about the Ship, and a Bird
larger than a Duck, his plumage of a Dark Brown, with a Yellow beak. We
saw of these Birds in our Passage to the Northward, after doubling Cape
Horn. At Noon the weather was more moderate; set the Reefd Mainsail. A
great Sea from the West-South-West. Wind West; Course North 54 degrees 30
minutes East; distance 46 miles; latitude 39 degrees 45 minutes South,
longitude 145 degrees 39 minutes West.

Sunday, 3rd. The fore and Middle parts fresh gales, with hard Squalls;
Latter more moderate. At 5 a.m. loos'd the Reef out of the Mainsail, and
set the Topsail double reef'd, and before noon had all the Reefs out.
Wind Westerly; course North; distance 50 miles; latitude 38 degrees 54
minutes South, longitude 145 degrees 39 minutes West.

Monday, 4th. First and latter parts, little wind and Cloudy; in the night
Calm. Very few Birds about the Ship. Wind Westerly; course North by East;
distance 26 miles; latitude 38 degrees 29 minutes South, longitude 145
degrees 32 minutes West.

Tuesday, 5th. Fresh breezes and Cloudy weather. At 2 p.m. saw a piece of
rock Weed. Variation, per Azimuth 7 degrees 0 minutes East. Wind West to
North-West; course North 32 West; distance 44 miles; latitude 37 degrees
52 minutes South, longitude 146 degrees 2 minutes West.

Wednesday, 6th. Fresh Gales and Squally, with rain. At Noon saw a Bird
which was all white, except the Tip of each Wing; it was nearly as big as
an Albetross. We saw 2 of these Birds in Latitude 19 degrees before we
Arrived at George's Island. Wind Westerly; course South 87 degrees 30
minutes West; distance 70 miles; latitude 37 degrees 49 minutes South,
longitude 147 degrees 30 West.

Thursday, 7th. Fresh Gales and hard squalls, with rain. At 3 p.m. saw
something upon the Water, which must either have been a Billet of Wood or
a Seal. At Noon a hard gale and Squally, which obliged us to take in the
Topsails. Wind Westerly; course South 80 degrees West; distance 15 miles;
latitude 37 degrees 52 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 49 minutes
West.

Friday, 8th. P.M. very strong gales and Squally. A.M. more moderate; set
the Topsails. At Noon the Observed Latitude was 13 Miles to the North of
the Log. This I take to be owing to the great Sea we have had constantly
of Late from the South-West. Wind Westerly; course North 1/4 East;
distance 76 miles; latitude 36 degrees 36 minutes South, longitude 147
degrees 40 minutes West.

Saturday, 9th. Moderate breezes and dark, cloudy weather, sometimes
Hazey, with Drizling Rain. Wind South-East; course North 77 degrees West;
distance 76 miles; latitude 36 degrees 19 minutes South, longitude 149
degrees 12 minutes West.

Sunday, 10th. Fresh breezes and cloudy. At 9 a.m. we thought the Colour
of the Sea was paler than Usual, which occasioned us to sound, but had no
ground with 100 fathoms. Wind South-West, West-South-West; course North
52 degrees West; distance 97 miles; latitude 35 degrees 19 minutes South,
longitude 150 degrees 46 minutes West.

Monday, 11th. Fresh breezes, and for the most part thick, hazey weather,
with rain. Wind South-West; course North 43 degrees West; distance 87
miles; latitude 34 degrees 15 minutes South, longitude 152 degrees 00
minutes West.

Tuesday, 12th. Fresh breezes and cloudy; a swell from the
South-South-West. Some Albetrosses and Pintado Birds about the Ship. Wind
Westerly; course North 30 degrees West; distance 73 miles; latitude 33
degrees 12 minutes South, longitude 152 degrees 44 minutes West.

Wednesday, 13th. Gentle breezes, with some flying Showers. At 6 p.m.
Variation per Azimuth, 8 degrees 8 minutes East. Note, while we was
between the Latitude of 37 and 40 degrees we had constantly blowing
Tempestious weather, but since we have been to the Northward of 37
degrees, the weather hath been very moderate. Wind South-West and
West-South-West; course North-North-West; distance 74 miles; latitude 32
degrees 3 minutes South, longitude 153 degrees 16 minutes West.

Thursday, 14th. Gentle breezes, and sometimes Calm. A Swell from the
South-South-West. Wind Variable; course South 86 degrees West; distance
33 miles; latitude 32 degrees 5 minutes South, longitude 153 degrees 54
minutes West.

Friday, 15th. First part, moderate and Cloudy, remainder Strong Gales and
Squally. Several Albetrosses, Pintado Birds, and Sheer Waters about the
Ship; some of the Albetrosses were all White. Wind North-East to
South-East; course South 77 West; distance 139 miles; latitude 32 degrees
36 minutes South, longitude 156 degrees 34 minutes West.

Saturday, 16th. First part very strong Gales and Squally; remainder more
moderate, with a large Swell from the Southward. Wind South-South-East,
South, West-South-West; course North 60 degrees West; distance 100 miles;
latitude 31 degrees 45 minutes South, longitude 158 degrees 16 minutes
West.

Sunday, 17th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy. Wind South-West; course North 25
West; distance 100 miles; latitude 31 degrees 14 minutes South, longitude
159 degrees 6 minutes West.

Monday, 18th. Moderate Gales and Cloudy, with a Swell from the Southward.
Wind Westerly; course North by West 1/2 West; distance 78 miles; latitude
29 degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 159 degrees 32 minutes West.

Tuesday, 19th. Variable; light Airs and Calm. Variation per Amplitude at
sunset, 8 degrees 36 minutes East; per Azimuth in the morning, 8 degrees
29 minutes East; mean, 8 degrees 32 1/2 minutes East. A large hollow
swell from the Southward. Wind Variable; course East; distance 6 miles;
latitude 29 degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 159 degrees 25 minutes
West.

Wednesday, 20th. Light Airs and Calm. Wind Variable; course South-West by
South; distance 20 miles; latitude 29 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude
159 degrees 47 minutes West.

Thursday, 21st. Most part Gentle breezes and clear weather. Wind South
Easterly; course South 50 degrees West; distance 62 miles; latitude 30
degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 160 degrees 42 minutes West.

Friday, 22nd. Fresh breezes and Cloudy. The Southerly swell still
Continues, from which I conjecture that there is no land near in that
Direction. Wind South-East; course South 34 West; distance 81 miles;
latitude 31 degrees 7 minutes South, longitude 161 degrees 35 minutes
West.

Saturday, 23rd. Gentle breezes and Cloudy weather. Wind South-East;
course South-West by South; distance 62 miles; latitude 31 degrees 59
minutes South, longitude 162 degrees 44 minutes West.

Sunday, 24th. Moderate breezes and Cloudy. At Noon saw some sea-Weed. The
Southerly swell is now quite gone down. Wind South-East to North-East;
course South 35 West; distance 97 miles; latitude 33 degrees 18 minutes
South, longitude 162 degrees 51 minutes West.

Monday, 25th. Ditto weather. At 1 p.m. passed by a Piece of Wood, about 3
feet long and 7 or 8 Inches thick. Variation at 6 p.m. per Azimuth, 10
degrees 48 minutes East. A.M., got up all the Boatswain's Stores, to take
an account of them. Wind North-East; course South 43 1/2 West; distance
103 miles; latitude 34 degrees 30 minutes South, longitude 165 degrees 10
minutes West.

Tuesday, 26th. Fresh breezes and fair weather. Wind North-North-East;
course South-West; distance 136 miles; latitude 36 degrees 9 minutes
South, longitude 167 degrees 14 minutes West.

Wednesday, 27th. Very strong Gales and hazey, with rain the First and
Middle part; Latter, moderate and clear weather. In the evening took in
the Topsails and Mainsail, and lay too with her head to the Westward
under the Foresail. During the night, at 4 a.m., made Sail. Saw several
Pieces of Sea Weed at different times this 24 Hours. Wind North by East,
Westerly; course South 28 West; distance 95 miles; latitude 37 degrees 33
minutes South, longitude 168 degrees 10 minutes West.

Thursday, 28th. First and Middle parts, fresh gales and Cloudy; Latter
part, very strong Gales and Squally. At 4 p.m. saw a Seal aSleep upon the
Water, and some Weed. A.M. saw several bunches of Sea Weed and a few
Albetrosses and Sheer Waters. Wind Westerly; course South 21 degrees
West; distance 92 miles; latitude 38 degrees 59 minutes South, longitude
169 degrees 5 minutes West.

Friday, 29th. The first part strong Gales and Squally; remainder a fresh
breeze and settled weather. At 1 p.m. was obliged to take in the
Topsails, but set them again at 4. At 11 a.m. saw a Bird something like a
Snipe, only it had a short bill; it had the appearance of a land bird.
Several Albetrosses, Pintado birds, and Sheer Waters about the Ship, and
a Number of Doves; of these we have seen more or less ever since the 31st
of last Month, the day we first saw them. Wind South-West; course North
59 degrees West; distance 60 miles; latitude 38 degrees 30 minutes South,
longitude 170 degrees 14 minutes West.

Saturday, 30th. Moderate breezes and Settled weather. Saw a dark brown
bird as big as a Raven; it is a Sea Fowl, and are seen in great Numbers
about the Faulkland Islands, as I am told. We likewise saw several pieces
of Sea Weed. Wind South Easterly; course North 87 1/2 West; distance 90
miles; latitude 38 degrees 26 minutes South, longitude 172 degrees 20
minutes West.

[October 1769.]

Sunday, October 1st. Little Wind in the day time and Calm in the Night.
At 8 a.m. sounded: no ground with 120 fathoms of line. Saw an immence
number of Birds, the most of them were Doves; saw likewise a Seal aSleep
upon the Water, which we at first took for a Crooked billet. These
creatures, as they lay upon the Water, hold their fins up in a very odd
manner, and very different to any I have seen before; we generally reckon
that seals never go out of Soundings or far from Land, but the few we
have seen in this Sea is certainly an exception to that rule. However,
one would think that we were not far from some land, from the Pieces of
Rock weed we see daily floating upon the Water. To-day we took up a small
Piece of Stick, but to all appearance it had been a long time at Sea. The
observ'd Latitude is considerable to the Northward of that given by the
Log, in so much that I think there must be some Current seting from the
Southward. Wind South to West by North; course North 16 degrees West;
distance 43 miles; latitude 37 degrees 45 minutes South, longitude 172
degrees 36 minutes West.

Monday, 2nd. Little wind. At 3 p.m. hoisted out a Boat to try the
Current, but found none. Saw several Grampusses. A.M. had a Boat in the
Water, and Mr. Banks shott an Albetross which measured 10 feet 8 Inches
from the tip of Wing to the other. He likewise shott 2 birds that were
very much like Ducks, excepting their head and Bill; their plumage were
dark brown. We first saw some of these birds in the Latitude of 40
degrees South, after our first coming into those Seas. Wind
West-South-West, South-West; course North-North-West; distance 35 miles;
latitude 37 degrees 10 minutes South, longitude 172 degrees 54 minutes
West.

Tuesday, 3rd. Little wind and sometimes Calm. A.M. Variation per Azimuth
13 degrees 22 minutes East. Saw some fish like a Skip Jack, and a small
sort that appeared very Transparent. Took up a very small piece of wood
with Barnacles upon it, a proof that it hath been some time at Sea. Some
very large Albetrosses about the Ship and other birds. The observed
Latitude is 10 Miles to the Northward of that given by the Log, and it
was the same Yesterday, which I think is a Proof that there must be a
Current setting to the Northward, notwithstanding we did not find any
when we try'd it. Wind Southerly; course North 60 degrees West; distance
28 miles; latitude 36 degrees 56 minutes South, longitude 173 degrees 27
minutes West.

Wednesday, 4th. Gentle breezes and Cloudy weather. P.M. Variation per
Azimuth 12 degrees 48 minutes East; sounded twice, but found no ground,
with 120 fathoms of line. Saw some rock weed, but not in such plenty as
of late. Wind South-East; course South 52 1/2 West; distance 86 miles;
latitude 37 degrees 43 minutes South, longitude 175 degrees 00 minutes
West.

Thursday, 5th. Light, gentle breezes and Clear weather. P.M. saw one of
the same sort of Birds as we saw last Saturday. These birds are of a dark
brown or Chocolate Colour, with some white feathers under their wings,
and are as big as Ravens. Mr. Gore says that they are in great plenty at
Port Egmont in Faulklands Islands, and for that reason calls them Port
Egmont Hens. Saw a great many Porpoisses, large and Small; the small ones
had white bellies and Noses. A.M. saw 2 Port Egmont Hens, a Seal, some
sea Weed, and a Piece of wood with Barnacles upon it. Wind South-East to
East-North-East; course South 49 1/2 West; distance 63 miles; latitude 38
degrees 23 minutes South, longitude 176 degrees 3 minutes West.

Friday, 6th. Little wind, and fine pleasant weather. Saw some Seals, sea
weed, and Port Egmont Hens. P.M. Variation per Azimuth 12 degrees 50
minutes East. Per Amplitude 12 degrees 40 minutes. A.M. per Azimuth 14
degrees 2 minutes East; the difference is 1 degree 3 minutes, and the
Ship has only gone 9 Leagues in the Time. The Colour of the water appears
to be paler than common, and hath been so for some days past; this makes
us sound frequently, but can find no ground with 180 fathoms of Line.
Wind East-North-East; course South-West; distance 62 miles; latitude 39
degrees 11 minutes South, longitude 177 degrees 2 minutes West.

[Make New Zealand.]

Saturday, 7th. Gentle breezes and settled weather. At 2 p.m. saw land* (*
The North island of New Zealand.) from the Masthead bearing West by
North, which we stood directly for, and could but just see it of the Deck
at sunset. Variation per Azimuth and Amplitude 15 degrees 4 1/2 minutes
East; by observation of the Sun and Moon made this afternoon the
Longitude of the Ship is 180 degrees 55 minutes West, by the mean of
these and Subsequent observations the Error of the Ship's account in
Longitude from George's Island is 3 degrees 16 minutes; that is, so much
to the Westward of the Longitude resulting from the Log, which is what is
inserted in the Columns. At Midnight brought too and sounded, but had no
ground with 170 fathoms. At daylight made sail in for the Land, at Noon
it bore from South-West to North-West by North, distant 8 Leagues.
Latitude observed 38 degrees 57 minutes South; Wind North-East,
South-East, Variable; course South 70 degrees West; distance 41 miles;
latitude 38 degrees 57 minutes observed South; longitude 177 degrees 54
minutes West.

Sunday, 8th. Gentle breezes and clear weather. At 5 p.m., seeing the
opening of a Bay that appear'd to run pretty far inland, hauld our wind
and stood in for it; but as soon as night came on we keept plying on and
off until day light, when we found ourselves to leeward of the Bay, the
wind being at North. By Noon we fetch'd in with the South-West point, but
not being able to weather it we tacked and stood off. We saw in the Bay
several Canoes, People upon the Shore, and some houses in the Country.
The land on the Sea Coast is high, with Steep Cliffs; and back inland are
very high Mountains. The face of the Country is of a hilly surface, and
appears to be cloathed with wood and Verdure. Wind between the
East-North-East and North.


CHAPTER 5. EXPLORATION OF NORTH ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND.

[October 1769. At Poverty Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]

MONDAY, 9th October. Gentle breezes and Clear Weather. P.M. stood into
the Bay and Anchored on the North-East side before the Entrance of a
small River,* (* Tauranga nui. The township of Gisborne is now situated
on its eastern bank.) in 10 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom. The North-East
point of the Bay bore East by South 1/2 South, and the South-West point
South, distance from the Shore half a League. After this I went ashore
with a Party of men in the Pinnace and yawl accompanied by Mr. Banks and
Dr. Solander. We landed abreast of the Ship and on the East side of the
River just mentioned; but seeing some of the Natives on the other side of
the River of whom I was desirous of speaking with, and finding that we
could not ford the River, I order'd the yawl in to carry us over, and the
pinnace to lay at the Entrance. In the mean time the Indians made off.
However we went as far as their Hutts which lay about 2 or 300 Yards from
the water side, leaving 4 boys to take care of the Yawl, which we had no
sooner left than 4 Men came out of the woods on the other side the River,
and would certainly have cut her off had not the People in the Pinnace
discover'd them and called to her to drop down the Stream, which they
did, being closely persued by the Indians. The coxswain of the Pinnace,
who had the charge of the Boats, seeing this, fir'd 2 Musquets over their
Heads; the first made them stop and Look round them, but the 2nd they
took no notice of; upon which a third was fir'd and kill'd one of them
upon the Spot just as he was going to dart his spear at the Boat. At this
the other 3 stood motionless for a Minute or two, seemingly quite
surprised; wondering, no doubt, what it was that had thus kill'd their
Comrade; but as soon as they recovered themselves they made off, dragging
the Dead body a little way and then left it. Upon our hearing the report
of the Musquets we immediately repair'd to the Boats, and after viewing
the Dead body we return'd on board. In the morning, seeing a number of
the Natives at the same place where we saw them last night, I went on
shore with the Boats, mann'd and arm'd, and landed on the opposite side
of the river. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself only landed at first,
and went to the side of the river, the natives being got together on the
opposite side. We called to them in the George's Island Language, but
they answer'd us by flourishing their weapons over their heads and
dancing, as we suppos'd, the War Dance; upon this we retir'd until the
Marines were landed, which I order'd to be drawn up about 200 yards
behind us. We went again to the river side, having Tupia, Mr. Green, and
Dr. Monkhouse along with us. Tupia spoke to them in his own Language, and
it was an agreeable surprize to us to find that they perfectly understood
him. After some little conversation had passed one of them swam over to
us, and after him 20 or 30 more; these last brought their Arms, which the
first man did not. We made them every one presents, but this did not
satisfy them; they wanted everything we had about us, particularly our
Arms, and made several attempts to snatch them out of our hands. Tupia
told us several times, as soon as they came over, to take care of
ourselves for they were not our friends; and this we very soon found, for
one of them snatched Mr. Green's hanger from him and would not give it
up; this encouraged the rest to be more insolent, and seeing others
coming over to join them, I order'd the man who had taken the Hanger to
be fir'd at, which was accordingly done, and wounded in such a manner
that he died soon after. Upon the first fire, which was only 2 Musquets,
the others retir'd to a Rock which lay nearly in the middle of the River;
but on seeing the man fall they return'd, probably to carry him off or
his Arms, the last of which they accomplished, and this we could not
prevent unless we had run our Bayonets into them, for upon their
returning from off the Rock, we had discharged off our Peices, which were
loaded with small shott, and wounded 3 more; but these got over the River
and were carried off by the others, who now thought proper to retire.
Finding nothing was to be done with the People on this side, and the
water in the river being salt, I embarked with an intent to row round the
head of the Bay in search of fresh water, and if possible to surprise
some of the Natives and to take them on board, and by good Treatment and
Presents endeavour to gain their friendship with this view.

Tuesday, 10th. P.M., I rowed round the head of the bay, but could find no
place to land on account of the Great Surf which beat everywhere upon the
Shore. Seeing 2 Boats or Canoes coming in from Sea I rowed to one of
them, in order to Seize upon the People; and came so near before they
took notice of us that Tupia called to them to come alongside and we
would not hurt them; but instead of doing this they endeavour'd to get
away, upon which I order'd a Musquet to be fir'd over their Heads,
thinking this would either make them surrender, or jump overboard; but
here I was mistaken, for they immediately took to their Arms or whatever
they had in the Boat, and began to attack us. This obliged us to fire
upon them, and unfortunately either 2 or 3 were kill'd and one wounded,
and 3 jumped overboard. These last we took up and brought on board, where
they was Cloathed and Treated with all imaginable kindness; and to the
Surprise of everybody became at once as cheerful and as merry as if they
had been with their own Friends. They were all 3 Young, the eldest not
above 20 years of Age, and the youngest about 10 or 12. I am aware that
most Humane men who have not experienced things of this nature will
Censure my Conduct in firing upon the People in their Boat, nor do I
myself think that the reason I had for seizing upon her will at all
justify me; and had I thought that they would have made the Least
Resistance I would not have come near them; but as they did, I was not to
stand still and suffer either myself or those that were with me to be
knocked on the head.

In the morning, as I intended to put our 3 Prisoners ashore, and stay
here the day to see what effect it might have upon the other Natives, I
sent an Officer ashore with the Marines and a party of men to cut wood,
and soon after followed myself, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander,
and Tupia, taking the 3 Natives with us, whom we landed on the West side
of the River before mentioned. They were very unwilling to leave us,
pretending that they should fall into the hands of their Enemies, who
would kill and Eat them. However, they at last of their own accord left
us and hid themselves in some bushes. Soon after this we discover'd
several bodys of the Natives marching towards us, upon which we retir'd
aCross the River, and joind the wooders; and with us came the 3 Natives
we had just parted with, for we could not prevail upon them to go to
their own people. We had no sooner got over the River than the others
assembled on the other side to the Number of 150 or 200, all Arm'd. Tupia
now began to Parly with them, and the 3 we had with us shew'd everything
we had given them, part of which they laid and left upon the Body of the
Man that was Kill'd the day before. These things seem'd so far to
Convince them of our friendly intentions that one man came over to us,
while all the others sat down upon the Sand. We everyone made this man a
present, and the 3 Natives that were with us likewise presented him with
such things as they had got from us, with which, after a short Stay, he
retir'd aCross the River. I now thought proper to take everybody on
board, to prevent any more Quarrels, and with us came the 3 Natives, whom
we could not prevail upon to stay behind; and this appear'd the more
strange as the man that came over to us was Uncle to one of them. After
we had return'd on board we saw them Carry off the Dead Man; but the one
that was Kill'd the first evening we Landed remain'd in the very spot
they had left him.

[Leave Poverty Bay.]

Wednesday, 11th. In the P.M., as I intended to sail in the Morning, we
put the 3 Youths ashore, seemingly very much against their inclination;
but whether this was owing to a desire they had to remain with us, or the
fear of falling into the hands of their Enemies, as they pretended, I
know not. The latter, however, seemed to be ill-founded, for we saw them
carried aCross the River in a Catamaran, and walk Leasurely off with the
other Natives. At 6 a.m. we weighed and stood out of the Bay, which I
have named Poverty Bay, because it afforded us no one thing we wanted
(Latitude 38 degrees 42 minutes South, Longitude 181 degrees 36 minutes
West).* (* Latitude correct. Longitude is 181 degrees 57 minutes West.)
It is in the form of a Horse Shoe, and is known by an Island lying close
under the North-East point. The 2 points which forms the Entrance are
high, with Steap white Cliffs, and lay a League and a half or 2 Leagues
from Each other, North-East by East and South-West by West. The Depth of
Water in this Bay is from 12 to 6 and 5 fathoms, a sandy bottom and good
Anchorage, but you lay open to the winds between the South and East.
Boats can go in and out of the river above mentioned at any time of Tide
in fine weather; but as there is a Bar at the Entrance, on which the Sea
Sometimes runs so high that no Boat can either get in or out, which
hapned while we laid here; however, I believe that Boats can generally
land on the North-East side of the river. The shore of this Bay, from a
little within each Entrance, is a low, flat sand; but this is only a
Narrow Slip, for the face of the Country appears with a variety of hills
and Vallies, all cloathed with woods and Verdure, and to all appearance
well inhabited, especially in the Vallies leading up from the Bay, where
we daily saw Smoke at a great distance inland, and far back in the
Country are very high Mountains. At Noon the South-West point of Poverty
Bay, which I have named Young Nicks head (after the Boy who first saw
this land),* (* In Mr. Molineux's Log, his name is given as Nicholas
Young, but no such name appears in the official lists.) bore North by
West, distance 3 or 4 leagues, being at this time about 3 Miles from the
Shore, and had 25 fathoms Water, the Main Land extending from North-East
by North to South. My intention is to follow the direction of the Coast
to the Southward, as far as the Latitude of 40 or 41 degrees, and then to
return to the Northward, in case we meet with nothing to incourage us to
proceed farther.

[Off Portland Island, North Island, New Zealand.]

Thursday, 12th. Gentle breezes at North-West and North, with frequent
Calms. In the Afternoon, while we lay becalm'd, several Canoes came off
to the Ship, but keept at a distance until one, who appeared to come from
a different part, came off and put alongside at once, and after her all
the rest. The people in this boat had heard of the Treatment those had
met with we had had on board before, and therefore came on board without
hesitation; they were all kindly treated, and very soon entered into a
Traffick with our People for George's Island Cloth, etc.; giving in
Exchange their Paddles, having little else to dispose of, and hardly left
themselves a sufficient number to paddle ashore; nay, the people in one
Canoe, after disposing of their Paddles, offer'd to sell the Canoe. After
a stay of about 2 hours they went away, but by some means or other 3 were
left on board, and not one boat would put back to take them in, and, what
was more surprizing, those aboard did not seem at all uneasy with their
situation. In the evening a light breeze springing up at North-West, we
steer'd along Shore, under an easy sail, until midnight, then brought
too. Soon after it fell Calm, and continued so until 8 o'Clock a.m., when
a breeze sprung up at North, with which we stood along shore
South-South-West. At and after sunrise found the variation to be 14
degrees 46 minutes East. About this time 2 Canoes came off to the Ship,
one of which was prevailed upon to come along side to take in the 3
people we had had on board all night, who now seem'd glad of the
opportunity to get ashore. As the People in the Canoe were a little shy
at first, it was observed that one Argument those on board made use on to
intice the others alongside, was in telling them that we did not Eat men;
from which it should seem that these people have such a Custom among
them. At the time we made sail we were abreast of the Point of Land set
yesterday at Noon, from which the Land trends South-South-West. This
point I have named Cape Table, on account of its shape and figure. It
lies 7 Leagues to the Southward of Poverty Bay, in the Latitude of 39
degrees 7 minutes South, longitude 181 degrees 36 minutes West, it is of
a moderate height, makes in a sharpe Angle, and appears to be quite flat
at Top. In steering along shore to the Southward of the Cape, at the
distance of 2 or 3 miles off, our soundings were from 20 to 30 fathoms,
having a Chain of Rocks that appears at different heights above water,
laying between us and the Shore. At Noon, Cape Table bore North 20
degrees East, distant 4 Leagues, and a small Island (being the
Southermost land in sight) bore South 70 degrees West, distant 3 miles.
This Island I have named Isle of Portland, on account of its very great
resemblance to Portland in the English Channel. It lies about a mile from
a Point on the Main, but there appears to be a ledge of Rocks extending
nearly, if not quite, aCross from the one to the other. North 57 degrees
East, 2 Miles from the South point of Portland, lies a sunken rock
whereon the sea breaks; we passed between this Rock and the land having
17, 18, and 20 fathom Water. We saw a great Number of the Natives
assembled together on the Isle of Portland; we likewise saw some on the
Main land, and several places that were Cultivated and laid out in square
Plantations.

Friday, 13th. At 1 p.m. we discover'd land behind or to the Westward of
Portland, extending to the Southward as far as we could see. In hauling
round the South end of Portland we fell into Shoal Water and broken
ground, which we, however, soon got clear of. At this time 4 Canoes came
off to us full of People, and keept for sometime under our stern
threatning of us all the while. As I did not know but what I might be
obliged to send our Boats ahead to sound, I thought these Gentry would be
as well out of the way. I order'd a Musquet shott to be fir'd close to
one of them, but this they took no notice of. A 4 Pounder was then fir'd
a little wide of them; at this they began to shake their Spears and
Paddles at us, but notwithstanding this they thought fit to retire.
Having got round Portland, we hauled in for the Land North-West, having a
Gentle breeze at North-East, which died away at 5 o'Clock and obliged us
to Anchor in 21 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom: the South Point of Portland
bore South-East 1/2 South distant about 2 Leagues, and a low Point on the
Main bore North 1/2 East. In this last direction there runs in a deep bay
behind the Land on which is Table Cape, which makes this Land a
Peninsula, joined to the Main by a low, narrow neck of land; the Cape is
the North Point of the Peninsula, and Portland the South. While we lay at
Anchor 2 Boats came off to us, and so near as to take up some things we
throw'd them out of the Ship, but would not come alongside. At 5 a.m. a
breeze springing northerly we weigh'd and steer'd in for the Land. The
shore here forms a very large Bay, of which Portland is the North-East
Point, and the Bay above mentioned is an Arm of it. I would gladly have
examin'd this Arm, because there appear'd to be safe Anchorage in it, but
as I was not certain of this, and the wind being right an End, I did not
care to spend time in Turning up to it. At Noon Portland bore South 50
degrees East, and the Southermost land in sight bore South-South-West,
distant 10 or 12 Leagues, being about 3 miles from the Shore, and in this
situation had 12 fathoms water--24 fathoms have been the most Water we
have had since we have been within Portland, every where clear ground.
The land near the Shore is of a moderate height, with white Cliffs and
Sandy beaches. Inland are several Pretty high Mountains, and the whole
face of the Country appears with a very hilly surface, and for the most
part Covered with wood, and hath all the appearances of a very pleasant
and fertile Country.

Saturday, 14th. P.M. had Gentle breezes between the North-East and
North-West. Kept running down along shore at the distance of 2 or 3 miles
off. Our sounding was from 20 to 13 fathoms, an even sandy bottom. We saw
some Canoes or Boats in shore, and several houses upon the Land, but no
harbour or Convenient watering place--the Main thing we were looking for.
In the night had little wind, and Sometimes Calm with Dirty, rainy
weather. A.M. had Variable light Airs next to a Calm and fair weather. In
the morning, being not above 2 Leagues from the South-West corner of the
great Bay we have been in for the 2 days past, the Pinnace and Long boat
were hoisted out in order to search for Fresh Water; but just as they
were ready to put off we observed several Boats full of People coming off
from the Shore, and for that reason I did not think it prudent to send
our own from the Ship. The first that came were 5 in Number, in them were
between 80 and 90 men. Every Method was tried to gain their Friendship,
and several things were thrown overboard to them; but all we could do was
to no purpose, neither would they accept of any one thing from us, but
seem'd fully bent on attacking us. In order to prevent this, and our
being obliged to fire upon them, I order'd a 4 Pounder Loaded with grape
to be fir'd a little wide of them, letting them know at the same time by
Means of Tupia what we were going to do; this had the desir'd effect, and
not one of these would afterwards trust themselves abreast of the Ship.
Soon after 4 more came off; one of these put what Arms they had into
another Boat, and then came alongside so near as to take what things we
gave them, and I believe might have been Prevailed upon to come on board
had not some of the first 5 came up under our Stern and began again to
threaten us, at which the people in this one Boat seem'd displeased;
immediately after this they all went ashore. At Noon Latitude in per
Observation 39 degrees 37 minutes South. Portland bore by our run from it
East by North, distant 14 Leagues; the Southermost land in sight, and
which is the South point of the Bay, South-East by South, distant 4 or 5
Leagues; and a Bluff head lying in the South-West corner of the Bay South
by West 2 or 3 Miles. On each side of this bluff head is a low narrow
sand or stone beach; between these beaches and the Main land is a pretty
large lake of Salt Water, as I suppose. On the South-East side of this
head is a very large flatt, which seems to extend a good way inland to
the Westward; on this flatt are Several groves of Streight, tall Trees,
but there seems to be a great Probability that the lake above mentiond
extends itself a good way into this flatt Country. Inland are a Chain of
Pretty high Mountains extending North and South; on the Summits and Sides
of these Mountains were many Patches of Snow, but between them and the
Sea the Land is Cloathed with wood.* (* The Endeavour was now off what is
called Ahuriri Bay. The bluff head is known as Ahuriri Bluff, and the
town of Napier, of 8000 inhabitants, lies at the back of it. The large
sheet of salt water is called Manganui-o-rotu. There was no sheltered
harbour for a vessel in the Endeavour's situation, but at present,
harbour works have improved the entrance to the lagoon into which vessels
drawing 12 feet can enter. Produce of the value of over a million pounds
per annum is now exported from Napier.)

[In Hawkes Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]

Sunday, 15th. P.M. stood over for the Southermost Land or South point of
the Bay, having a light breeze at North-East, our soundings from 12 to 8
fathoms. Not reaching this point before dark, we stood Off and on all
night, having Variable light Airs next to a Calm; depth of water from 8
to 7 fathoms; Variation 14 degrees 10 minutes East. At 8 a.m., being
abreast of the South-West point of the Bay, some fishing Boats came off
to us and sold us some stinking fish; however it was such as they had,
and we were glad to enter into Traffick with them upon any Terms. These
People behaved at first very well, until a large Arm'd boat, wherein were
22 Men, came alongside. We soon saw that this Boat had nothing for
Traffick, yet as they came boldly alongside we gave them 2 or 3 pieces of
Cloth, Articles they seem'd the most fond off. One Man in this Boat had
on him a black skin, something like a Bear Skin, which I was desirous of
having that I might be a better judge what sort of an Animal the first
Owner was. I offer'd him for it a piece of Red Cloth, which he seem'd to
jump at by immediately putting off the Skin and holding it up to us, but
would not part with it until he had the Cloth in his possession and after
that not at all, but put off the Boat and went away, and with them all
the rest. But in a very short time they return'd again, and one of the
fishing Boats came alongside and offer'd us some more fish. The Indian
Boy Tiata, Tupia's Servant, being over the side, they seiz'd hold of him,
pull'd him into the Boat and endeavoured to carry him off; this obliged
us to fire upon them, which gave the Boy an opportunity to jump
overboard. We brought the Ship too, lower'd a Boat into the Water, and
took him up unhurt. Two or 3 paid for this daring attempt with the loss
of their lives, and many more would have suffer'd had it not been for
fear of killing the Boy. This affair occasioned my giving this point of
land the name of Cape Kidnapper. It is remarkable on account of 2 White
rocks in form of Haystacks standing very near it. On each side of the
Cape are Tolerable high white steep Cliffs, Latitude 39 degrees 43
minutes South; Longitude 182 degrees 24 minutes West; it lies South-West
by West, distant 13 Leagues from the Island of Portland. Between them is
a large Bay wherein we have been for these 3 days past; this Bay I have
named Hawkes Bay in Honour of Sir Edward, first Lord of the Admiralty; we
found in it from 24 to 8 and 7 fathoms, everywhere good Anchoring. From
Cape Kidnapper the Island Trends South-South-West, and in this direction
we run along shore, keeping about a League off, having a steady breeze
and Clear weather. At Noon the above Cape bore from us North 9 degrees
East, distant 2 Leagues, and the Southermost land in sight South 25
degrees West Latitude in Per Observation 39 degrees 50 minutes South.

Monday, 16th. First and latter part, fresh breezes, Northerly; in the
night, Variable and sometimes calm. At 2 p.m. passed by a Small but a
Pretty high white Island lying close to the Shore. On this Island we saw
a good many Houses, Boats, and Some People. We concluded that they must
be fishers, because the Island was quite barren; we likewise saw several
people upon the Shore in a small Bay on the Main within the Island. At 7
the Southermost land in sight bore South-West by South, and Cape
Kidnapper North 3/4 East, distant 8 leagues, being then about 2 Leagues
from the Shore, and had 55 fathoms. At 11 brought too until daylight,
then made Sail along shore to the Southward. At 7 passed a pretty high
point of Land, which lies South-South-West, 12 Leagues from Cape
Kidnapper. From this point the Land Trends 3/4 of a point more to the
Westward. At 10 saw more land appear to the Southward, at South-West by
South. At Noon the Southermost land in sight bore South 39 degrees West,
distant 8 or 10 Leagues, and a high Bluff head with Yellowish Cliffs bore
West, distant 2 miles, Latitude observed 40 degrees 34 minutes South;
depth of water 32 fathoms.

[Returning North from Cape Turnagain.]

Tuesday, 17th. P.M. winds at West, a fresh breeze; in the night, Variable
light Airs and Calm; a.m. a Gentle breeze between the North-West and
North-East. Seeing no likelyhood of meeting with a Harbour, and the face
of the Country Visibly altering for the worse, I thought that the
standing farther to the South would not be attended with any Valuable
discovery, but would be loosing of Time, which might be better employ'd
and with a greater Probability of success in examining the Coast to the
Northward. With this View, at 1 p.m. Tack'd and stood to the Northward,
having the Wind at West, a fresh breeze.* (* If Cook had known the exact
shape of New Zealand, he could scarcely have taken a better resolve, in
view of saving time, than to turn northward again when he did.) At this
time we could see the land extending South-West by South, at least 10 or
12 Leagues. The Bluff head or high point of land we were abreast off