Project Gutenberg's Through Canal-Land in a Canadian Canoe, by Vincent Hughes

This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org


Title: Through Canal-Land in a Canadian Canoe

Author: Vincent Hughes

Illustrator: Vincent Hughes

Release Date: August 16, 2007 [EBook #22347]
[Last updated: March 31, 2011]

Language: English

Character set encoding: ASCII

*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THROUGH CANAL-LAND ***




Produced by Andrew Hodson




[Transcriber's Note: The spelling of Westmoreland has been modernized to
Westmorland, and employes (with an acute accent over the second e) has
been changed to employees. Variant spellings of macintoshes and
mackintoshes have been retained as printed.]




THROUGH CANAL-LAND IN A CANADIAN CANOE
BY VINCENT HUGHES.

The Boy's Own Paper.
OCTOBER 7, 14 & 21, 1899.

Bearing in mind that variety is the spice of existence, I determined that
I would temporarily desert the dear old Thames, with whose waters I had
become so familiar, and try fresh fields and pastures new during my
approaching holidays.

Accordingly, I took a friend (who had been my boon companion on many
a previous trip by land and water) into my confidence, and after due
deliberations, befitting an enterprise likely to be of a novel character,
we determined to explore the comparatively un-known canals that commence
from the Thames, at Brentford, and thread their way through England from
south to north, and end at Kendal in Westmorland.

One thing that largely influenced us in deciding upon this route was that
we had recently become possessed of a light and well-built Canadian canoe
that had been sent us by an English resident in France, where he had been
using it in exploring the picturesque portions of the Seine.

We fortunately had a friend connected with the Grand Junction Canal
Company, and through his kindly offices were enabled without much
difficulty to obtain passes allowing us to journey over the different
canals which we had mapped out as the waterway to follow.

This part of the undertaking having been successfully disposed of,
we turned to and overhauled our craft, and saw to the getting of the
outfit which we should require in order to make the trip a success.

By the time that all our arrangements were in a complete state, the day
fixed for the start arrived, and it found us brimming over with cheerful
anticipation of the good time in store for us during the next three weeks,
and in the best of health and spirits.

We were "up betimes in the morning," as quaint old Samuel Pepys has it,
and journeying down to the boat-house at Kew, where we had left our canoe
overnight, soon got afloat and on our way, without mishap or delay of any
kind.  What a glorious August day it was!  The sun shining brightly in a
cloudless blue sky overhead, the birds singing blithely in the trees upon
the banks, and the water sparkling and lapping beneath our bows; no wonder
we took it all as a good omen for the success of our trip.

Heading up-stream, we soon shot beneath the railway bridge at Kew, and pass
through dirty, straggling old Brentford, entered the Brent, where a short
paddle brought us to the first lock.  Getting through in our turn, after a
short delay caused by a string of canal barges coming through to catch the
morning tide, we entered upon the Grand Junction Canal, which extends form
here to Braunston, a distance of some hundred and six miles.

An enjoyable paddle through fairly pretty and diversified scenery brought
us to Hanwell, where we had to negotiate a cluster of five or six locks,
all grouped together within a short distance, for the purpose of carrying
the water over a sharp rise in the ground.  We had a brief chat here with
an old bargee, from whom we got some useful advice, not wholly free from
chaff, and proceeded upon our way, arriving about midday at West Drayton,
where an _al fresco_ lunch on the bar was much appreciated.  Resuming our
journey after refreshing the inner man, we passed Uxbridge and Harefield,
and so out of Middlesex into Hertfordshire.

The town of Rickmansworth being passed, Watford, about a mile from
the canal, was settled upon as our first stopping place; and evening
approaching, we went ashore to seek our well-earned repose for the night.

Early to bed and early to rise was the programme, so after a light supper
and a brief stroll around the outskirts of the town, we turned into bed and
were not long in seeking the sleep that is said to be the reward of an easy
conscience.

The sun shining through our window in the morning got us out of bed at an
early hour, and we were soon splashing about in the sunlit waters of the
canal.  A delightful dip ended, we returned to our quarters for breakfast,
and from the looks of genuine admiration expressed upon the countenance of
our landlady, I should judge that our appetites did us full credit.

Afloat once more, we paddled by easy stages past Cassiobury House,
surrounded by a glorious well-wooded park, and then reached King's Langley,
to which an interest attached as having been the birthplace of Edward III.

We found the scenery all along this portion of the canal typical of rural
England, the various inns by the wayside recalling the delightful types
made familiar by the brushes of Dendy Sadler and Yeend King.

We soon found to our cost that the tropical summer weather was responsible
for the presence of numerous wasps, whose attentions were rather too
pressing to be altogether pleasant.  While engaged in trying to allay the
burning pains of a bad sting upon Jacky's arm, we were advised by a rustic
on the bank (whose sympathetic grins upset my chum almost as much as the
wasps) to try some clay from the canal-side as a remedy.  We were sceptical
at first, but were subsequently astonished at the soothing effects of this
novel panacea for wasp-stings.  Here is a wrinkle for any of my readers
who should happen to get stung by the ferocious little pests.

At Boxmoor, where we next arrived, we observed, during a saunter around the
village, a curious stone erected to the memory of a highwayman rejoicing
in the most un-romantic name of Snooks, who was hanged here at the
beginning of the century for robbing the King's mail.

Paddling on farther, we passed Berkhampstead (a corruption of
Berg-ham-sted, the home on the hill), with its picturesque castle,
much in request by picnic parties, and duly arrived at Bulborn, near Tring,
and during a stroll around the latter town we observed a column erect to
commemorate the completion (in 1832) of the canal along which we were
journeying.

We stopped for the night at Bulborn, a typical bargee's village,
and after our usual morning dip proceeded on our way in good time.

As the day wore on, we got well into Buckinghamshire, and shortly after
came to Stony Stratford, remarkable in history as being the place where
the ill-fated young Edward V was seized by Richard Duke of Gloucester.

A paddle of some length brought us to the Stoke entrance of the well-known
Blisworth Tunnel, which is a mile and a-half in length, and forms the first
of a series along the route.

Seeing one of the curious little tug-boats about to proceed through the
tunnel, we obtained permission from one of the very grimy crew to place our
canoe aboard, and, this safely accomplished, the tug puffed and snorted up
to the entrance, hitched on to a string of barges, and with a deal of fuss
and smoke entered the tunnel.

The journey through this subterranean passage was a most novel one
to us who had never been through a tunnel of this description before.
The intense darkness, only illuminated by the light from the boiler fire,
was most uncanny, while the wonderful reverberations and echoes occurring
in the tunnel quite startled us until we became used to the situation.
The roof seemed so low that we instinctively stooped our heads to avoid
getting them removed from our shoulders, an action which caused immense
amusement to the skipper, who, in the manner of his kind, accentuated the
eerie feeling of the place by spinning all sorts of creepy yarns about
canal boatmen who had mysteriously gone overboard in the pitch dark,
and never been seen again.

We drew a long breath when we emerged into the welcome blinking daylight
at the other end of the tunnel, and soon after bade good-bye to our whilom
friend the skipper.

I can imagine no place more calculated to quickly shatter the nerves and
break the health of a human being than one of those foul, suffocating
tunnels under the hills.

On this occasion we stopped for the night at Blisworth and put up at a
wayside inn possessing the curious sign of the "Sun, Moon, and Seven Stars"
(the only one in England we were told), where we met with quite a
reception, the news of our approach having gone ahead of us, we afterwards
discovered.

Before proceeding next day, we had to clear the canoe of the dirt and
rubbish collected during the passage of the tunnel.  Upon this day we
passed through six locks in close succession, as well as another tunnel,
and skirted the village of Ansley, once the property of Lady Godiva,
of the uncomfortable ride fame, soon after which we left the waters of
the Grand Junction at Braunston (Warwickshire), and entered upon those
of the Oxford Canal.

A hard day's paddle, of no particular interest, brought us to Willoughby,
where we put up for the night.

We awoke next morning to find the weather damp and misty, so we dispensed,
for the first time, with our morning dip, and lingered somewhat over
breakfast to make up for it.

_A propose_ of eating, I should mention that all along the way we had come
fruit was in abundance, and as for apples--well, we fairly revelled in
them.

To my mind a good English apple, fresh picked from the tree, and with the
dew upon its sun-kissed cheeks, cannot be beaten the whole world over.

During a portion of this day we had to face a strong head-wind, which made
the travelling rather hard, and severely taxed the patience and skill of
the steerer.  Happening to chaff him once or twice when the wind got the
upper hand and nearly slewed the canoe round, he challenged me to try
my hand and do better.  Accepting the challenge, and in the rashness of
youthful confidence, I ventured to wager him that I could take the canoe,
single-handed and empty, up to a certain point and back again, during
which I should, of course, have to turn broadside on to the full force
of the wind.

The outcome of it was that we quickly landed and emptied the canoe of all
impedimenta in case of mishap, and then I started off--not so confidently,
though, I may add--on my uncertain way.

All went well until I attempted to turn, and then the full force of the
wind catching me suddenly, over I went, after a vain attempt to steady the
canoe, souse into the canal.  Coming to the surface, I called out (when I
had emptied my mouth of as much canal-water as I could) to Jacky that I
was all right, and then, amid his uproarious mirth, I struck out for shore,
pushing the canoe in front of me.

A brisk rub down and a change of flannels (we were in a secluded spot,
fortunately) soon mended matters, and by the time Jacky had emptied the
canoe of water and stowed away our belongings, I was ready to start again,
thoroughly cured for the time being of over-confidence in my canoeing
powers.

After a stiff paddle through charming woodland scenery, and passing
_en route_ Bedworth, the most active part of the Warwickshire coal-fields,
we reached Nuneaton, where we went ashore and engaged a room for the night
under the hospitable roof of the White Horse.

A stroll around Nuneaton before bedtime afforded us much delight, as the
old town is full of antiquity, and is also known to fame as the birthplace
of George Eliot.

In the morning we took mine host's little son and daughter with us in
the canoe as far as Atherston, where we sent them safely back by train,
thoroughly delighted with their novel experience, ours being the only craft
of the kind that they had ever seen in those parts.

When we arrived at Caldecote we went ashore to explore the place,
and noticed with much interest a monument erected to the memory of one
George Abbott, who in days gone by defended Caldecote Hall against a
Royalist attack led by Prince Rupert.  So stubborn was the defence that
the defenders melted down the pewter dishes and plate to cast bullets.

We noted with pleasure that the lives of those gallant Roundheads were
spared when the garrison finally had to surrender.

We proceeded on through the Birmingham Canal, passing close by Coventry,
and arrived at Fradley, where we obtained a charming view of Lichfleld
Cathedral in the distance.  We rested for the night at Fradley (our bill
for an excellent supper, bed, and breakfast coming to the modest sum of
3_s_. 6_d_. for the two of us), and early next morning got afloat.

We were now on the North Staffordshire Canal, having covered about 160
miles since the commencement of our journey.

We shortly after began to get in the heart of the Pottery District, and
the scenery for some distance assumed the aspect peculiar to manufacturing
centres.

Past Armitage, Rugeley, Colwich, and several other towns and villages we
paddled, until we reached Little Heyward, where we stopped about midday
for lunch.

Re-starting after a rest, we were overtaken by a monkey-barge, the skipper
of which kindly gave us a tow for some miles, until we arrived, in the
afternoon, at Stone, where we went ashore for tea and a look round the
town.  On several occasions we took advantage of the good-nature of the
bargees and their wives, and obtained a tow behind their barges when we
wanted a rest.  On the whole, we found them a most interesting and sociable
lot of people, and on more than one occasion we were invited on board,
as honoured guests, to partake of tea with the skipper and his family.

Life on board one of these slow-moving canal barges appeared to me to
possess many charms.  The barge people seem to pass a sort of amphibious
existence, belonging neither to the land nor to the water, but having a
human interest in each.  The women and children almost wholly live aboard
their floating homes, often never stepping ashore from one day to the other
and going about their domestic duties, as well as those connected with
their calling, with all the precision and cheerfulness in the world,
as if there were nothing strange or out-of-the-way in their surroundings.

Then the scenery through which they pass.  To anyone who is capable of
appreciating the beauties of Nature in the slightest degree, there must
be something soothing and elevating in constantly being brought face to
face with Nature in all her varying charms.  Now gliding calmly past a
water-side village, with the children running out to give you a greeting;
then through a waving, poppy-starred cornfield, or past low-lying meadows,
with the meditative cattle standing knee-deep in the sweet pasturage, and
anon a bend in the canal carries you past wood-lands where the trees meet
overhead and form a cool canopy through which the rays of the sun can only
penetrate here and there in slanting beams.

When my thoughts wander in this groove, I often marvel at people electing
to live in stuffy, smoky towns, when the charms of the country are at
their bidding.

Proceeding on our journey after tea, we eventually arrived at
Stoke-on-Trent, and went ashore to seek shelter for the night at a
wayside cottage.

We got afloat in the morning after our swim and a hearty breakfast,
and proceeded past the outskirts of the town, which we were not sorry
to leave behind.

It came on to rain soon after we left Stoke-on-Treat; but as we were
well prepared with macintoshes to face the elements, we proceeded
cheerily on our way.

After paddling for about four miles we came to the entrance of another
long tunnel, which we entered, after taking the precaution to provide
ourselves with candles.  We had a nasty experience in navigating through
this tunnel, which I should not much care to encounter again.

After proceeding cautiously for some distance, during which we had to avoid
a ducking, and possibly a swamping, from the numerous "weep-holes" that let
showers of land water descend from the roof, our candle suddenly went out
and left us in total darkness.  To make matters worse, a lot of land-water
was coming through the tunnel, which, together with the backwash of a tug
some little way ahead of us, tried us considerably, and finally wedged our
canoe between the two walls of the tunnel.

We did not relish the situation at all, I can assure you, especially as we
could not take stock of our whereabouts; but after a deal of rocking and
shoving (during which we had a narrow escape from capsizing), we managed
to get the canoe clear of the walls, and worked our way backwards,
hand-over-hand, to the mouth of the tunnel.

After this experience we were strangely unanimous as to the desirability of
going through in some less risky manner (we accused each other of "funking"
afterwards), and accordingly sought the aid of a man, a boy, and a
wheelbarrow, and in this unconventional manner conveyed our goods and
chattels overland to the other end of the tunnel.

In the course of our journey along the canals we passed through a number
of these tunnels, including the one that starts close to Chatterby Station,
and goes under Yield and Golden Hills.  The passage of barges through some
of these tunnels is performed in a very curious manner, as owing to the
roofs being too low to admit of tugs passing through, the heavily laden
canal barges have to be "footed" along by men and boys lying on their
backs and pushing against the roof or walls of the tunnel.

As may be imagined, but slow progress is made in this manner, the passage
of some of the tunnels occupying upwards of an hour.  In some cases,
however, the tunnels are provided with a narrow tow-path running through
them, which, of course, greatly facilitates the passage, as when once
momentum is obtained, a man and a boy can tow a barge through without
much difficulty.

We next reached Harecastle, in Cheshire, where we landed for lunch.
Re-starting, after doing justice to a good feed, we soon encountered a
cluster of thirty-five locks (think of it) all grouped together within a
distance of six miles.  Finding the negotiating of two or three a weariness
of the flesh, we cast around for help, and fortunately came across a
"locked-out" coal-miner, who for two shillings cheerfully trotted on ahead,
and opened each of the remaining locks ready for us by the time we arrived,
thus giving us a welcome rest after a spell of hard work.

After getting through the locks we had a straight-away paddle of some nine
miles, which was a pleasant change after the slow and tedious progress we
had lately been making, and passing by Alleyfield and Sandbach Station,
brought our day's journey to an end at Middlewich, where we are glad
to leave the canoe at the lock-house, and make preparations for passing
the night.

Proceeding next morning, with the sun shining and everything looking fresh
and lovely after the rain of the previous day, we got into the picturesque,
country peculiar to the salt district.

Some distance out of the town we obtained a pleasant tow of a few
miles behind a barge going in our direction, and from an old lady in a
picturesque sun-bonnet; who came out of the cabin to chat with us, we got
the welcome information that we should pass through a wonderful nut-grove
on the banks of the canal, where she prophesied that we should have a real
royal time.  And she was about right!

Such a profusion of filberts I never have seen before.  The trees literally
were interlaced across the canal, and being in a perfectly out-of-the-way
spot, where scarcely anyone but the canal-boat people passed, the branches
were simply weighed down with the toothsome nuts.

We were told by our informant that the filberts were anybody's property; so
when we came to where the trees were heaviest laden we paddled beneath the
bough and soon had picked enough to fill the bows of the canoe.  You may
be sure we never wanted for filberts upon the rest of the day's journey.

I pictured with what delight the average schoolboy would have hailed that
nut-grove, especially as the gathering of the nuts from the bank would have
entailed torn clothes, many tumbles, and unlimited scratches.

After passing through lovely country, we arrived at Preston Brook, where
we joined the Duke of Bridgewater Canal (now the property of the Manchester
Ship Canal Company).

Here we decided to stop for tea, after which we once more proceeded on our
way, and after an uneventful paddle, brought our day's journey to a close
at Grappenhall, where we obtained comfortable quarters for the night at a
cottage on the canal side.

Up at six-thirty next morning, and after cleaning out the canoe and
indulging in our morning swim, sat down to a good breakfast, to which
we did ample justice.

Once more afloat, we made good progress towards Manchester, but after about
an hour's paddle it came on to rain in torrents, and continued so until we
reached Cottonopois, which we fetched at about one o'clock.  I have always
been given to understand that it does little else but rain at Manchester,
and certainly on this occasion the much-maligned city did not belie its
reputation.

However, we did not trouble ourselves much, about the rain, as we had
mackintoshes and sou'-westers on.

Presenting much the appearance of a pair of ancient mariners in our get-up,
we entered Hulme dockyard, safely berthed our canoe there, and prepared to
spend the next two days with friends in the city.

After passing two very pleasant days, during which we saw all that could
be seen during such a brief stay, we said good-bye to our hospitable
Manchester friends and pushed on towards our destination and in due time
reached Booth Town, close to Barton moss, passing _en route_ Old Trafford
Park.  Near by here we arrived at the famous swivel bridge by which the
Bridgewater Canal is carried over the Manchester Ship Canal.

We happened to get to this point just as the bridge was opened to traffic
for the first time, and as we paddled across in state we were hailed and
told that ours was the very first canoe to have the distinction of crossing
the new waterway.

During the rest of the day's paddle we were in the very heart of the
coal-mining district, and our progress caused no little comment and wonder
to the crowds of "locked-out" miners and their families.  So embarrassing
became their attentions at length that we had to abandon our original
intention of landing at Wigan, owing to the numerous crowd awaiting our
approach at that place.

Twice we essayed to get ashore, but finally, not appreciating the
appearance of the motley crowd, we pushed on until we reached Plank Lane,
where, the crowd of idlers being a little less dense, we summoned up pluck
enough to venture ashore.

Even here we found ourselves the centre of attraction to the people;
rough miners crowding around as we lifted our canoe from the water,
to stare in amazement at our appearance, some even going so far in their
admiration of our little craft as to pass their hands along its polished
sides, all the while expressing their opinions in such a broad vernacular
as to be almost unintelligible to our Southern ears.  They thought it was
a joke upon our part when we told them that we had paddled all the way
from London in the canoe.  The way they nudged each other and winked
solemnly was most expressive.

Their attentions at last became so overwhelming that we were compelled
to give the craft into the care of the friendly lock-keeper and beat
a hasty retreat.

Our host at Leigh very kindly afforded us a much-wished-for opportunity of
exploring a coal-mine.  Getting up early in the morning, we proceeded to
the mouth of the pit, entered the cage, and soon were speeding downward at
a most alarming pace, accomplishing the distance of 700 yards in forty-five
seconds.

The sensation accompanying this rapid descent into the bowels of the
earth was far from pleasant, but we quickly recovered when we reached
_terra firma_, and, when we had become accustomed to the intense darkness,
were soon able to follow our guide through the almost deserted workings.

The miners were on strike, and only the engineers and others necessary to
attend to the machinery for keeping the shafts and workings ventilated and
free from water were on duty, so that the desolate stillness of the place
impressed us more profoundly, perhaps, than if we had been surrounded by
busy toilers.

After going all over the mine, each with Davy lamp in hand--during which
we had several times to chase our head-gear, which was blown off by the
strong draught from the ventilating fans--we once more entered the cage
and were quickly whirled upwards to the light of day.

Next day we embarked rather later than was our usual custom, and paddled
on towards Preston, having to traverse a portion of the river Ribble before
we reached this town.  Nothing very interesting or exciting occurred upon
this day, except for a rather narrow shave we had of getting smashed up
by a barge.

It happened that one of us was towing, while the other remained in the
canoe to steer.  Just as we got to a very narrow strip of the canal near
the entrance to a lock, we met some barges coming down in tow of a tug,
and, as luck would have it, our tow-line fouled a tree stump just at the
moment when the tail barge began to swing ominously over towards our bank.

For a moment or two it looked as if the canoe must be crushed like an
egg-shell between the bank and the barge, but fortunately at the critical
moment an extra strong jerk on the tow-line got it clear, and with a run
Jacky whisked the canoe through the narrow streak of open water, and we
were safe.

We stayed with friends at Preston for the next three days, and managed
to put in a highly enjoyable round of sight-seeing, during which we paid
a flying visit to Southport.

Our stay at an end, we embarked once more, taking three of our friends
with us in the canoe as far as Garstang.

Five people (in addition to luggage) in a small craft of this description
was an exceedingly tight pack, and we had to strictly taboo any skylarking,
else we should very quickly have got a ducking.  At Garstang we left our
friends, after a high tea; and after passing several towns and villages,
at eventide reached Lancaster, which we made our headquarters for the
night.

I may mention that we met with great kindness and consideration from the
officials during the whole of our journey along the Lancaster canal, one of
the employees being told off to clear all barges out of our way, and see us
safely, and with the least trouble to ourselves, to its end at Kendal; this
thoughtfulness saving us much delay and inconvenience, and rendering this
portion of our trip one of the most delightful experiences throughout the
whole of our journey.

Getting afloat in good time next morning, we bade farewell to Lancaster,
and pushed on towards Crooklands, passing Nately and Ashton on the way.

For a great portion of this part of our journey the surroundings were truly
beautiful, the trees meeting overheard in many places, and forming a cool
leafy canopy, while the water was so clear that we could distinguish
objects lying upon the bottom quite distinctly, although the water averaged
a depth of seven or eight feet.  Our silent approach allowed us to come
upon shoals of fish, which only darted away when our bows cleared the water
immediately above them, a sight that roused all our angling instincts.

At other spots along the canal the towering hills, with their crests
enshrouded in mist, combined to make up as impressive a picture as can
be conjured up by the imagination.

Wild-flowers, blackberries, and sloes dotted the banks in profusion,
and the occasional starting of a hare or the putting up of a rocketing
pheasant from out of the woods, through which we passed at intervals
conveyed to us a charming impression of Nature in all the glorious
wealth of an early English autumn.

At Hest Bank the canal approached the coast, which we followed for some
distance allowing us to obtain an interesting view of Morecambe Bay.

Arriving at Crooklands about seven in the evening, we left our canoe in
charge there and walked into Milnethorpe, a distance of some three miles,
and sought shelter for the night, with the consciousness that next day
would see us at the end of our canal journey.

Early next morning we are out and about and, breakfast despatched, we get
afloat once more, with the sun shining, the birds singing, and a soft wind
blowing from the south, making the last part of our trip every respect.

We paddled along past the varied scenery on the banks, dotted here and
there with villages and hamlets and occasionally a town.  The last day on
the canal we made a regular picnic of, landing on the grassy banks when we
wanted to rest and eat, and pushing onward again when we were so inclined.

In this manner we progressed past Hincaster, Sedgwick, and Natland,
and at about three o'clock in the afternoon reached Kendal, where the
canal system curiously ends in a sheer wall.  We were now practically of
our destination, and after carefully bumping the nose of the canoe against
the headwall of the canal, we landed at the steps.

Obtaining the assistance of a man with a horse and cart, we conveyed our
craft to Kendal railway station, and after tea took the train (with the
canoe stowed away in the guard's brake) to Windermere station.
Now a difficulty arose as to how to get the canoe safely to
Bowness-on-Windermere, a distance of about a mile and a-half.
We were nearly at our wits' ends for want of a suitable conveyance,
when a kindly disposed 'bus-driver offered to take the canoe inside the
'bus, which offer, needless to say, we literally jumped at; and seated
outside with our craft stowed away inside the vehicle, we proceeded to our
journey's end in this novel fashion, much to the amusement and edification
of the numerous onlookers.

After a short stay by the lakeside, we took our canoe by train back to
London, and so brought to a close one of the most health-giving and
enjoyable holidays it has ever been my lot to spend, and which I shall
always recall with the liveliest feelings of delight.






End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Through Canal-Land in a Canadian Canoe, by 
Vincent Hughes

*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THROUGH CANAL-LAND ***

***** This file should be named 22347.txt or 22347.zip *****
This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
        https://www.gutenberg.org/2/2/3/4/22347/

Produced by Andrew Hodson

Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
will be renamed.

Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
redistribution.



*** START: FULL LICENSE ***

THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK

To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
https://gutenberg.org/license).


Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
electronic works

1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.

1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
works.  See paragraph 1.E below.

1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.

1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
States.

1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:

1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
copied or distributed:

This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org

1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
1.E.9.

1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.

1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.

1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
Gutenberg-tm License.

1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.

1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.

1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
that

- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."

- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
     License.  You must require such a user to return or
     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
     Project Gutenberg-tm works.

- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
     of receipt of the work.

- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.

1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.

1.F.

1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
your equipment.

1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
DAMAGE.

1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
opportunities to fix the problem.

1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.

1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.

1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.


Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm

Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
people in all walks of life.

Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org.


Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
Foundation

The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
https://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.

The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
page at https://pglaf.org

For additional contact information:
     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
     Chief Executive and Director
     gbnewby@pglaf.org


Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
Literary Archive Foundation

Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
status with the IRS.

The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
particular state visit https://pglaf.org

While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
approach us with offers to donate.

International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.

Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
donations.  To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate


Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
works.

Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.


Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.


Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:

     https://www.gutenberg.org

This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.