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Title: The Champlain tercentenary

Final report of the New York Lake Champlain tercentenary commission

Creator: New York . Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission

Author: Henry Wayland Hill

Contributor: David J. Foster

H. Wallace Knapp

Edward Mott

Charles Alexander Nelson

George H. Perkins

Release date: May 23, 2023 [eBook #70842]

Language: English

Original publication: United States: J. B. Lyon Company, 1913

Credits: Sonya Schermann, John Campbell and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CHAMPLAIN TERCENTENARY ***

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE

Footnote anchors are denoted by [number], and the three footnotes have been placed at the end of the book.

All chapter headings were printed twice; the first instance of each one has been removed to improve readability.

Some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book. These are indicated by a dashed blue underline.


Original cover

The Rodin Bust “La France”

The
Champlain Tercentenary


Final Report

of the

New York Lake Champlain
Tercentenary Commission

Prepared by Henry Wayland Hill, LL.D.,
Secretary of the Commission

ALBANY
J. B. Lyon Company, State Printers

1913


[Pg iii]

Final Report

of the

Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission
State of New York


Albany, N. Y., April 10, 1913.

To the Honorable the Legislature of the State of New York:

Pursuant to the statute in such case made and provided, we, the undersigned Commissioners, submit herewith the final report of the Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission of the State of New York.

Very respectfully,

H. Wallace Knapp, Chairman,
Henry W. Hill, Secretary,
Walter C. Witherbee, Treasurer,
John H. Booth,
Louis C. Lafontaine,
James J. Frawley,
James A. Foley,
James Shea,
John B. Riley,
Howland Pell,
William R. Weaver,
Commissioners.


[iv]
[v]

CONTENTS


Part One: MEMORIALS TO SAMUEL CHAMPLAIN
Page
I. Construction of Memorials 1
II. The Allegorical Bust “La France” and the personnel and mission of the French delegation 11
III. Social functions and hospitalities extended to the French Visitors in New York, Washington, Philadelphia, Boston and elsewhere 23
IV. Banquet at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, New York City, May 1, 1912, and the presentation of Rodin bust, “La France” 29
V. French Delegation entertained by the Chamber of Commerce of the State of New York 57
VI. French Visitors and Commissioners entertained at Ticonderoga, later Inspect the Champlain Memorial Lighthouse at Crown Point Forts where they formally place the Bust, “La France”, and then journey to Plattsburgh. Report to Paris 69
VII. They visit Canada, Niagara Falls and sail for France. Impressions and comments by French visitors on experiences in America 87
VIII. Impressions of M. René Bazin 99
IX. Comment in appreciation of the visit of the French delegation and Honors conferred 107
[vi] Part Two: DEDICATORY CEREMONIES
I. Preparation for Dedicatory Ceremonies, including Military Functions 115
II. Unveiling Tablet at the English Fort 123
III. Dedicatory Ceremonies of the Champlain Memorial Lighthouse at Crown Point Forts, July 5, 1912 131
IV. Sail down the Lake to Bluff Point 149
V. Call at the Summer School, Review of the Fifth Infantry regiment, U. S. A., at Plattsburgh Barracks. Tour of the city. Reception given by the Hon. Smith M. Weed and luncheon at the Fouquet House 155
VI. Dedicatory Ceremonies of the Champlain Memorial Statue at Plattsburgh, N. Y., July 6, 1912 161
Part Three: CONCLUSION
I. Federal Co-operation and assistance rendered by Senators of the United States, Representatives in Congress and others 177
II. Brief review of the work of the Commission and acknowledgments in appreciation of assistance rendered by the representatives of Foreign nations, military organizations and others 183
III. Historical significance of the Tercentenary Celebration 193
IV. Representative Men of the Champlain Region 201
V. Conclusion of the work of the New York Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission 215
[vii] APPENDIX
I. Report of House Committee on Foreign Affairs 221
II. English forts 237
III. Report of Captain Edward Mott 241
IV. Notes on the archaeology of the Champlain valley by Prof. George H. Perkins, Ph.D., state geologist of Vermont 245
V. Financial Statement 261
INDEX

[viii]
[ix]

ILLUSTRATIONS

The Rodin Bust “La France” Frontispiece
Facing Page
Champlain Memorial Lighthouse at Crown Point Forts 4
Champlain Group at Crown Point Memorial 4
Memorial to Samuel Champlain at Plattsburgh 6
Side View of the Champlain Memorial at Plattsburgh 6
Champlain Statue at Plattsburgh 8
Crouching Indian at base of Champlain Statue 8
Champlain Memorial at Crown Point Forts nearing Completion 12
Front View of Rodin Bust “La France” 18
Steamship “France” that transported French Delegation 26
Banquet to French Delegation, Waldorf-Astoria, May 1, 1912 30
Governor John A. Mead of Vermont 42
Ferry Transporting Commissioners and French Delegation 70
Ambassador Jusserand and French Delegation at Crown Point 72
Commissioners and French Delegation at Crown Point Forts 72
French Delegation at Crown Point Memorial, May 3, 1912 74
M. Hanotaux speaking at Crown Point Forts, May 3, 1912 76
M. Hanotaux speaking at Crown Point Memorial, May 3, 1912 76
Landing Troops and Guests at Crown Point Forts, July 5, 1912 120
Colonel Sanger, Governor Dix and others landing at Crown Point 120
Unveiling Tablet at Fort Amherst, July 5, 1912 126
Tablet unveiled at Fort Amherst, July 5, 1912 128
Colonel Sanger, Governor Dix and Staff approaching Memorial, July 5, 1912 132
Champlain Memorial Lighthouse, July 5, 1912 134
Governor John A. Dix speaking at Crown Point Memorial, July 5, 1912 136
Colonel William C. Sanger speaking at Crown Point Memorial 140
Adjutant-General Verbeck, Count and Countess de Peretti de la Rocca 142
Parade in Plattsburgh, July 6, 1912, escorted by 5th U. S. Infantry 158
[x] Governor Dix, Lieutenant-Governor Conway, Colonel Cowles, Commissioners Knapp and Riley 158
Governor John A. Dix 162
Miss Katharine M. Booth, unveiling the Memorial at Plattsburgh 164
Front View and Granite Approach of Memorial at Plattsburgh 164
Governor John A. Dix speaking at Plattsburgh, July 6, 1912 166
Group Picture of Commissioners Knapp, Hill, Witherbee, Frawley and Foley 216
Group Picture of Commissioners Pell, Riley, Lafontaine, Booth, Shea and Weaver 216
Charles Alexander Nelson, Indexer 262

[xi]

The

Tercentenary Celebration

of the

Discovery of Lake Champlain


[xii]
[xiii]

Part One

MEMORIALS TO SAMUEL CHAMPLAIN


[Pg 1]

I. CONSTRUCTION OF MEMORIALS TO SAMUEL CHAMPLAIN

The first Report of this Commission was presented to the Honorable the Legislature of the State of New York, September 19, 1911. Subsequently thereto Commissioner and Senator James A. Foley, while still an Assemblyman, introduced a bill in the Assembly designed to empower the Commission to build two suitable permanent memorials to Samuel Champlain in that valley, one at Crown Point Forts and the other at Plattsburgh. Commissioner and Senator James J. Frawley had charge of the bill in the Senate. It was also designed to extend the term of the Commission into the year 1913, long enough to complete such memorials and to dedicate them with appropriate ceremonies. That bill passed the Legislature and upon its approval by Governor Dix, it became chapter 273 of the Laws of 1912. By its terms, it imposed on the Commission the duty of submitting to the Legislature of 1913, a full and complete report of its proceedings and transactions.

On March 27, 1912, the New York Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission submitted its Financial Report to the Legislature, showing its receipts and disbursements down to March 26, 1912. These two reports of the Commission, already submitted to the Legislature, comprise all the proceedings and transactions of the Commission down to their respective dates, so that all that is necessary to do in this Final Report is to continue the record of its proceedings and transactions from such dates. This will include an account of the visit to this country of the distinguished French delegation, headed by His Excellency, Monsieur Albert Auguste Gabriel Hanotaux in April and May, 1912,—an event exponential of the perfect amity existing between the two Republics—and also an account of the dedicatory ceremonies of the Memorial Lighthouse at Crown Point Forts, New York, on July 5, 1912, and of the Champlain memorial at Plattsburgh, New York, on July 6, 1912.

[2]

These did not admit of so extensive an historical treatment of the important events occurring in the Champlain valley, nor of so wide a range of literary productions, as did the Tercentenary exercises, a record of which may be found in the First Report of this Commission. Nevertheless, the interchange of felicitations between the representatives of France and of this country, the cordial greetings everywhere extended to the French visitors and the amicable relations existing between the two peoples, prompting the warmest expressions of good will and generous impulses in addresses of rare literary quality, together with the dedicatory ceremonies themselves, are worthy a permanent record in this Final Report, thereby enlarging it into a volume, and are a fitting sequel to the historical Tercentenary Celebration.

The Commissioners fully realized the opportunity at Crown Point Forts for the construction and embellishment of a great Memorial Lighthouse to commemorate the advent of Samuel Champlain, the herald of civilization, into that valley, and they spared no pains to accomplish that result.

After examining some American memorials to Samuel Champlain and looking over the photographs of others and especially in view of the utilitarian character of the Crown Point memorial in the form of a Lighthouse and of its adaptability to sculptural embellishment, the Commissioners decided to undertake the production of such a Memorial after a design submitted by the architects, Messrs. Dillon, McLellan & Beadel of New York City, including a bronze statue group, the work of the sculptor, Carl Augustus Heber, of New York City. For three years, Mr. Heber was in the studios of Augustus St. Gaudens and Paul Bartlett in Paris and afterward worked on the embellishments of the Pan-American Exposition at Buffalo under Karl Theodore Francis Bitter.

Among Heber’s more important works are the equestrian statue of General Sheridan at Somerset, Ohio; the statue of Franklin at Princeton University; the Schiller at Rochester, N. Y., the heroic statue “Roman Poet” in the Brooklyn Institute, and the bronze statue in St. Andrew’s[3] Church at Stamford, Connecticut. He received a medal at the St. Louis Exposition for his “Pastoral” which is now in the museum of the Chicago Art Institute, and he won the Avery prize at the Architectural League in 1910.

Contracts were let to Booth Brothers and Hurricane Isle Granite Company for the construction of the Memorial Lighthouse on the property of the United States at Crown Point Forts of Fox Island granite according to the design found at pages 346-347 of the original Report of the Commission and for the bronze statue group after the Heber model, consisting of a bronze statue of Champlain with one of his soldiers crouching at his feet at one side and an Indian at the other. Just below the group is a conventionalized stone canoe prow laden with the products of the country. The work progressed as rapidly as was planned. The Fox Island granite came from the State of Maine and had to be delivered at Crown Point Forts, several miles distant from a railroad station. The memorial was practically completed on July 5, 1912, although the foundry work on the bronze statue group was not finished, but was in place before the close of navigation. The Commissioners are gratified that the entire memorial, including granite and bronze work, and architects’ fees, was completed within the contract price of approximately $51,313.83, and has been generally approved by the Governors of New York and Vermont and by all others who have passed judgment upon it. In the production of such memorials, where æsthetics must be combined with utilitarian purposes, not readily susceptible of artistic treatment, it is not to be determined a priori from plans, what the result may be and especially when so much depends upon the location and landscape surroundings, as in the case of this memorial.

The artistic features of this memorial with its group of bronze statuary, with the Rodin allegorical bust “La France” set in its granite base, with eight free standing Doric columns surrounding its central shaft, supporting a visitors’ gallery, that gives a wide outlook over the lake and above that, a lantern platform 50 feet from the ground,[4] all surmounted by a circular capital with the garlands of the frieze binding the top together rising 73 feet above the circular terrace and 101 feet above the level of the lake and in the main after the style of the architecture prevailing in France at the time of Champlain, are rather accentuated by the grandeur of the natural scenery surrounding it, produced by the rugged Adirondacks in the west, the long expanse of undulating waters in the north, historic Chimney Point, the fertile fields, green vales and receding mountains in the east and the majestic ivy-clad ruins in the south, all under an azure vault of sky, “glorious as the gates of Heaven.” This memorial of highly artistic design with surroundings of such natural beauty and sublimity and nearly “throned among the hills” cannot fail to make an impression on the imagination and to produce a pleasing effect upon the mind, which is said by Sir Joshua Reynolds to be “the end of art.”

Champlain Memorial Lighthouse at Crown Point
Champlain Group at Crown Point Memorial

Inscriptions on the two granite pyramids are the following:

(Western pyramid)
NEW YORK
LAKE CHAMPLAIN
TERCENTENARY
COMMISSION


GOVERNOR CHARLES E. HUGHES
GOVERNOR JOHN A. DIX
H. WALLACE KNAPP
HENRY W. HILL
WALTER C. WITHERBEE
JAMES J. FRAWLEY
JAMES SHEA
WILLIAM R. WEAVER
JAMES A. FOLEY
JOHN H. BOOTH
JOHN B. RILEY
LOUIS C. LAFONTAINE
HOWLAND PELL

(Eastern pyramid)[5]
VERMONT
LAKE CHAMPLAIN
TERCENTENARY
COMMISSION


GOVERNOR GEORGE H. PROUTY
GOVERNOR JOHN A. MEAD
LYNN M. HAYS
FRANK L. FISH
WALTER H. CROCKETT
HORACE W. BAILEY
GEORGE T. JARVIS
JOHN M. THOMAS
WILLIAM J. VAN PATTEN
ARTHUR F. STONE
FREDERICK O. BEAUPRE


THE CHILDREN OF VERMONT PARTICIPATED IN
THE ERECTION OF THIS MONUMENT IN HONOR OF
SAMUEL CHAMPLAIN


The following arms appear on the base of the monument, in following order from front to rear:

(East side)

Arms of “ La Compagnie de la Nouvelle France.
Arms of the State of Vermont.
Arms of France of the time of Louis XIII.

(West side)

Arms of the United States.
Arms of the State of New York.
Arms of Brouage. (Birthplace of Champlain.)

[6]

Inscription on bronze tablet on the base of the Lighthouse, below the statue of Champlain and the Rodin bust:

1609 TO THE MEMORY OF 1909
SAMUEL CHAMPLAIN
INTREPID NAVIGATOR
SCHOLARLY EXPLORER
CHRISTIAN PIONEER
ERECTED BY THE STATE OF NEW YORK AND
THE STATE OF VERMONT
IN COMMEMORATION OF HIS DISCOVERY OF
THE LAKE WHICH BEARS HIS NAME

A description of the Rodin bust and the illustrations of this memorial may be found elsewhere in this volume. It was erected under the supervision of Commissioners Walter C. Witherbee, Howland Pell, James Shea, Louis C. Lafontaine and the chairman, Hon. H. Wallace Knapp. The Legislature authorized the construction of two permanent memorials to Samuel Champlain in the Champlain valley by chapter 181 of the Laws of 1911. The Commissioners appointed to supervise the construction of the Champlain memorial at Plattsburgh, were Judge John B. Riley, Judge John H. Booth, Senator James A. Foley and Hon. William R. Weaver, together with the chairman, the Hon. H. Wallace Knapp. They employed Messrs. Dillon, McLellan & Beadel to design the Plattsburgh memorial, the same architects who designed the Crown Point Memorial. Carl Augustus Heber was employed as the sculptor for the Plattsburgh Champlain Statue. The city of Plattsburgh purchased a commanding site for the memorial on the north shore of the harbor, below the outlet of the Saranac river overlooking Cumberland Bay and Lake Champlain.

Memorial to Samuel Champlain at Plattsburgh

Copyrighted and by the courtesy of the Powers Engraving Co. of New York

Side View of the Champlain Memorial at Plattsburgh, N. Y.

The Plattsburgh memorial has been described by the architects as follows:

[7]

DESCRIPTION

The Plattsburgh memorial to Samuel Champlain consists of a statue and pedestal standing on a terrace in a park overlooking Lake Champlain. The Terrace is bordered by a granite coping, and a flight of steps leads down to the lake.

The pedestal is square, slightly tapering toward the top. It is twenty-two feet high, and built of Massachusetts pink granite. It stands on a platform two steps above the terrace. Its base is surrounded by a granite seat and ornamented in front by the figure of a crouching Indian with bow and shield, carved in granite; at each side by a canoe prow with trophies typical of America in Champlain’s time; and at the rear by a bronze tablet bearing the names of the Commissioners.

The canoe prows were chosen because the birch bark canoe is one of the highest achievements, both constructively and artistically, of any primitive race, and is typical of Eastern North America. Strongly and ingeniously made of materials found in the woods, seaworthy, capable of carrying a heavy load, and so light that it could easily be carried from one waterway to another, it provided the quickest and easiest means of travel for the Indians and for the explorers of this part of the country. Without its assistance, journeys such as Champlain’s would have been vastly more difficult, if not impossible.

The type is fast disappearing with our forests, so it seems fitting to perpetuate it in stone on the monument to Champlain, to whom it was of such service.

The upper part of the pedestal is decorated with carved garlands of Indian corn, and bears the following inscription on the front and back respectively:

[8]

(Front)


Samuel
Champlain
1567       1635
Navigator
Discoverer
Colonizer
(Rear)

Erected by
The State of
New York in
Commemoration
of the
Discovery of
Lake Champlain
1609 1909

(Inscription on Bronze Tablet on Rear)

LAKE CHAMPLAIN TERCENTENARY COMMISSION
STATE OF NEW YORK

GOV. CHARLES E. HUGHES.
H. WALLACE KNAPP
HENRY W. HILL
WALTER C. WITHERBEE
JAMES J. FRAWLEY
JAMES SHEA
GOV. JOHN A. DIX
WILLIAM R. WEAVER
JAMES A. FOLEY
JOHN H. BOOTH
JOHN B. RILEY
LOUIS C. LAFONTAINE
HOWLAND PELL

The statue of Champlain, which is nearly twelve feet high and of bronze, represents him in his soldier costume holding in his hand the arquebuse of which he speaks in his memoirs. This and his breastplate, helmet or morion, cloak, doublet, boots, and sword follow carefully the style of his period: the arquebuse, morion and sword being modelled after the ancient pieces in the collection of Hon. Howland Pell.

The monument was designed by Dillon, McLellan & Beadel, the architects of the Champlain Memorial Lighthouse at Crown Point Forts, and the sculpture was done by Carl A. Heber, who modelled the Crown Point memorial figures.

Champlain Statue at Plattsburgh
Crouching Indian at Base of Champlain Statue at Plattsburgh

Contracts were let to Booth Brothers and Hurricane Isle Granite Company for the granite work of the Plattsburgh Memorial, which was to be built of Massachusetts pink granite and also for the bronze tablet, steps, coping, etc., and to Carl A. Heber, the sculptor for the bronze[9] statue of Champlain and for the models of the Indian, canoe prow and garlands. The approximate cost of the entire memorial, including architects’ fees, was $20,263.51. This memorial was completed in time for dedication on July 6, 1912. It is a stately and dignified memorial after an original design, about 34 feet high and rising 61½ feet above the level of the lake, and so located as to be readily seen from the decks of passenger steamers entering the port of Plattsburgh. As a work of art, it will stand comparison with any of the memorials to Samuel Champlain in this country.

Champlain Memorial at Crown Point Forts Nearing Completion

[13]

II. THE ALLEGORICAL BUST, “LA FRANCE,” AND THE PERSONNEL AND MISSION OF THE FRENCH DELEGATION

As the memorials neared completion, it was learned through His Excellency, Jean Adrien Antoine Jules Jusserand, the French Ambassador, that His Excellency, Clément Armand Fallières, President of the Republic of France, and the French people were raising funds to purchase and present to the Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commissions, which was to become a part of the Champlain memorial at Crown Point Forts, an allegorical bust by one of their noted sculptors. The cordial relations existing between the people of France and the people of America, as a result of the Champlain Tercentenary Celebration, awakened in the two peoples something of that friendship, which naturally springs from the pursuit of common purposes, similar ideals and like humanitarian impulses. The Tercentenary tributes to the God-fearing Champlain, whose noble qualities of mind and heart and whose unrequited services to mankind afford the occasion for the intermingling of the two races and the interchange of expressions of good will and cordial greetings, touched the hearts of the French people as nothing else had done, since the time when the people of this country bestowed their tributes on that other distinguished Frenchman and patriot, Marquis de Lafayette, whose services to this nation have ever since provoked the praises of our countrymen. This appears from what followed.

Through the columns of Le Figaro of December 22, 1911, His Excellency, Albert Auguste Gabriel Hanotaux, of the French Academy and President of the Franco-American Committee, which assumed the undertaking of procuring the Rodin allegorical bust, “La France,” appealed to the people of France to support the Committee in its undertaking. In the course of this appeal (rendered into English), he said:

Of the three names (Champlain, Jacques de Liniers and F. de Lesseps), perhaps the greatest is that of Champlain. He was at once both founder and[14] originator. Canada owes its existence to him. Quebec celebrated three years ago the memory of the man who having full consciousness of what he did placed the first stone of the French metropolis in America. He had also “great plans and vast thoughts.” A man of action, he was a man of imagination. He dreamed of the establishment for the benefit of France, of an immense dominion covering the American continent from Canada to Louisiana and Florida, through the valley of the Mississippi. This was neither more nor less than the idea of the future Republic of the United States, but in Champlain’s thought it was a matter of a French America. On the very first page of his book (now so rare and so much sought for by book-lovers), a book which he dedicated to the Cardinal Richelieu, the only one capable of comprehending him, Champlain explains his thought in terms of thrilling clearness. “It is necessary,” he wrote in 1632, “that under the reign of King Louis the Just, France beholds herself enriched with a country, the extent of which exceeds sixteen hundred leagues in length and more than five hundred in width, and that in a continent which leaves nothing to be desired in the bounty of its lands and in the profit which can be drawn from them, both for foreign commerce and for the delights of life therein. The communication of the great rivers and lakes, which are like seas stretching across these countries, affords so great facility for all discoverers in the remote regions that one can go to the seas of the west, of the east, of the far north, or even to the south.” When I cited this same page in 1898, I added: “Sixteen hundred leagues by five hundred! These are proportions over which one can now labor only in Africa.”

No doubt the great cities which will one day grow up on the banks of the Sangha, of the Oubanghi, and of the Congo, will celebrate Brazza, even as the United States prepare to glorify Champlain.

Some months ago our Ambassador at Washington, M. J. J. Jusserand, called the attention of the Minister of Foreign Affairs to the frequency of French commemorations in the United States. He mentioned especially the approaching erection on the borders of Lake Champlain of a monument consecrated to the memory of our compatriot and he asked the Government to act so that France would not be “absent” from these exercises so honorable to her. The Minister of Foreign Affairs laid the matter before the Franco-American Committee, who in turn makes its appeal to the public.

It is not desirable, indeed it is not proper that France absolutely ignore what is being done for her. Can she forget past services? Nations have the right to be ungrateful, but they cannot neglect courtesies—that would be inexcusable. A lack of good manners is worse than a fault. Since North America, or, to speak more exactly, the states of New York and Vermont, wish to remember, would we not be obstinate to forget?

[15]

The monument under construction is admirably adapted to the place and to the claims of the man, which it is designed to celebrate. There is at the extremity of the lake discovered by Champlain, and which bears his name, a lighthouse, throwing its rays over the waters of which, he, first of Europeans, contemplated the immense extent, empty and wild, and which are now traversed by the fleet of great steamboats, the region peopled by a swarm of men. A solid mass of masonry, a crown of columns bearing a terrace, and above all the lantern of the lighthouse, these are from base to summit the members of this powerful architecture. From the mass of masonry rises a rostrum, beneath which Champlain stands like a pilot.

What can France do? What should she do? What stone worthy of her can she bring to the monument? There is but one solution. It is that this stone must be precious.... We are at the house of Rodin. It is known how popular his name is in America. The great sculptor whose renown extends over the world has nowhere more ardent admirers. We hasten through the great rooms of the Hotel Biron. These great bare halls, full of the genius from which administrative barbarism is undertaking to shut out the glory, and among so many masterpieces where admiration exhausts itself, we discover (that is the true word, for the remarkable modesty of the master scarcely pointed it out to us) a bronze bust: France. Imagine the emotion of this finding! We sought an image, a symbol, I may say a signature of our country, to send out there and we find France herself, a darling France, full of grace, of spirit and of courage; a young French woman to the sensitive nostrils, to the full cheeks; to the chin, delicate and obstinate, to the glance, loyal, headstrong and brave; a young woman in whom are summed up our Clotilde, our Blanche, our Henriette and our Jeanne, crowned with her tresses as with a helmet, armed with her attire as with a cuirass. We sought for a French conception and we find the very image of France. It is this figure we wish to send out there, that it may be placed near the monument of Champlain. In front of the mass of masonry, a light construction, an “edicule,” which will be like a stone shrine sheltering and isolating the bust. And thus French art will carry its offering simply and beautifully, associating it with the powerful American commemoration.

If the idea appears good and worthy, worthy of the Government and of the Embassy, which has been confided to us, worthy of the man who was three centuries ago the champion of our country, worthy of the sister republic, then it is necessary that friends sign this visiting-card which will be sent out there in her name.

The inauguration of the monument will take place next July. A French delegation will go to deliver Rodin’s bronze to the building committee. Time presses. We must be ready by the day named. The bronze which requires some alterations will be quickly completed. But it is further necessary that the architect[16] place the edicule, that they cut the stone, that they engrave it in order that the thought of the master make in the ensemble a delicate, proud work, a flower of France, blossoming in good art at the foot of the colossal monument.

A little money is needed. But above all is needed a prompt expression to prevent at once any fault of taste and lack of precision. The Figaro opens its columns to us. The Times, the Matin, the Parisian press aid us. To-day appears the first subscription list. We make appeal to the friends of America and to the friends of France, that it may be rapidly closed up.

To this patriotic appeal generous response was made and the bust was secured. On April 26, 1912, the French delegation on their superb steamship France of La Compagnie Générale Transatlantique in New York harbor was welcomed by members of the New York Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission, Viscount de Jean, Secretary of the French Embassy at Washington, M. Étienne Marie Louis Lanel, French Consul-General at New York, Paul Fuller, Jr., representing the Franco-American Committee, Hon. McDougall Hawkes, representing the Franco-American Institute in the United States, and Mr. Henry L. Beadel, one of the architects of the Champlain Memorials. The interchange of greetings between the members of the Tercentenary Commission and the visitors prepared the way for the receptions that were to follow at New York, Washington, Philadelphia, Boston, Montreal, Quebec, and elsewhere. The delegation was accompanied by Hon. Robert Bacon, former United States Ambassador to France, and was one of the most representative that had ever come over from France. It included in its membership:

His Excellency, Albert Auguste Gabriel Hanotaux, of the French Academy, former Minister of Foreign Affairs, President of the delegation; Hon. Louis Barthou, Member of the Chamber of Deputies, former Minister of Justice; Baron D’Estournelles de Constant, Member of the French Senate and of The Hague International Tribunal; M. René Bazin of the French Academy; General Lebon, Grand Officer of the Legion of Honor and Member of the Superior Council of War; M. Étienne Lamy of the French Academy; M. Fernand Cormon, painter,[17] President of the Academy of Fine Arts; Count Charles de Chambrun, Secretary of the French Embassy at Washington, representing President Poincaré of the Council of Ministers; M. Paul Vidal de le Blache, Member of the Institute, representing the University of Paris; Le Duc Choiseul, descendant of an old distinguished French family; Count de Rochambeau, descendant of Count de Rochambeau, in command of the French forces in America during the Revolution; M. J. Dal Piaz, Director-General of La Compagnie Générale Transatlantique; M. Louis Blériot, Engineer and Aviator; M. Antoine Girard, Commercial Explorer; M. Léon Barthou, delegate from the Aero Club of France; M. Gabriel Louis Jaray, Member of the Council of State and Secretary of the General Franco-American Committee; M. Gaston Deschamps, representing “Le Temps;” M. Régis Gignoux, representing “Le Figaro;” M. Roger Gouel, Secretary of the delegation; the Countess de Rochambeau; Madame Blériot; Miss Valentine Girard and Miss Madeline Cormon.

Baron D’Estournelles de Constant, so favorably known to Americans on account of his advocacy of International Peace on a former visit to this country, introduced the members of the delegation to members of the New York Commission, which presented to each visitor one of the official souvenir Champlain badges and later a copy of the first edition of the Official Report of the Tercentenary Celebration. The mission of the delegation was to bring and present to the New York and Vermont Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commissions the allegorical bust “La France,” by Auguste Rodin, bearing the following inscription:

LE XX JUILLET MDCIX LE FRANÇAIS S. CHAMPLAIN
A DÉCOUVERT LE LAC QUI PORTE SON NOM.
LE III MAI MCMXII LES ÉTATS DE
NEW-YORK ET DE VERMONT
ÉLEVANT CE MONUMENT
UNE DÉLÉGATION FRANÇAISE
A SCELLE CETTE FIGURE DE
“LA FRANCE.”

A. Rodin

[18]

The architects of the Crown Point memorial thus described the bust:

The plaque represents France with a head-dress that follows somewhat the form of a liberty cap, and is half-indicated as the skin of a cock. A claw and a comb seem almost discernible in the boldly modelled planes and ridges. “La France” herself is a young woman with a strong face. The nose is modelled in a few bold planes, and is large. The eyes are staring and archaic. The mouth is firm, but is more kindly modelled than the nose, and the chin and cheeks are rounded, and, though firm, more feminine than the rest of the countenance. The pose is alert, even aggressive. It is too masculine to be immediately attractive, but familiarity with it seems to subdue its harshness and bring out its charm, until it is seen to possess that indescribable quality of mystery that belongs to a few famous portraits.

M. Hanotaux said that “it was fit to replace the Mona Lisa.” Perhaps he is right. There is no doubt at least that it is the work of a master. It has been placed on the front of the pedestal that carries the statue of Champlain.

Allegorical Interpretation.

[Suggested by Henry W. Hill, Secretary of the Commission.]

In addition to the foregoing technical description, this chef-d’œuvre may also have another interpretation, for it was designed to symbolize France, through the transformation of ten centuries of turbulence, revolution and evolution, the center of the Republican movement in Europe and finally emerging triumphantly reconstructed and self-reliant, the exponent among Continental nations of the liberty, equality and fraternity of mankind. In her new Renaissance of constitutional government, the spirit of intense patriotism has taken possession of her people and France is another illustration of the solidarity of those communities and stability of those nations, which are actuated by and founded upon popular liberties.

Front View of Rodin Bust “La France”

In contemplating this work, we are made to realize that the French as well as the Italians have an intuitive appreciation of the ideals in[19] æsthetics and they are setting the standards of their ideals in art so high, that France as well as Italy is leading most other nations in artistic achievement as may be seen in the marvelous productions of her modern sculptors, whose works are not only found in the Louvre, the Musée du Luxembourg and in other collections, but also adorn the palaces, boulevards and public grounds of Paris and other municipalities of France.

The moderate encouragement given there to art by the state and the people of the country has undoubtedly stimulated original and creative production in sculpture as well as in painting, notwithstanding the apathy once described by Théodore Duret, who declared that “there is nothing sadder to recount in the whole history of art than the persecution inflicted upon truly original and creative artists of the country.” In this martyrdom of those devoted to æsthetic achievements the world over inheres the truth of the Roman adage, patitur qui vincit. Auguste Rodin, who was born in Paris in 1840 and elected President of the International Society of Sculptors, Painters and Engravers in 1904, has conquered and lives to see his works admired in both hemispheres, notwithstanding his disregard of the canons and conventionalities of the French Institute, which were repulsive to him. He has devoted himself to a mastery of nature, as zealously as did Michael Angelo to the study of anatomy. He is original and creative and his works are now appreciated by members of the Institute as well as by the savants in art the world over. His success in his field of sculptural achievement is largely due to his intense application to nature, as interpreted through the perspective of a vivid imagination, a poetic temperament and a keen appreciation of the beautiful and the sublime. These have impelled him to reject the conventional details, due to uniform rules applying to all alike, regardless of the individual characteristics, apparent in the works of many sculptors and to devote himself to productions, which are the embodiment of individual realism. In “La France,” one appreciates that he has produced a work with an exuberance of detail as stately as the Greek conception of the ideal head, shown in the marble copy of the Athene Parthenos of Phidias. It is a production of marked originality and has[20] the character and the strength of the works of Donatello and of Michael Angelo, which contain “infinitely subtle shades of form in each sinuosity of contour” and are suggestive of living personalities. Whether or not we accept the intuitional theory of æsthetics, propounded by Benedetto Croce and others, that beauty is spiritual activity or expression and nothing more and is not predicable of nature apart from expression, we cannot fail to appreciate that the works of Rodin,[1] which are true to nature or an improvement upon it, are illustrations of perfect æsthetic expression and therefore fall within Signore Croce’s category of æsthetic productions.

The allegorical bust, “La France,” a work of poetic symbolism, reveals something of the culture and the contemplative character and native resolution of that nation, which struggles and conquers and whose intellectual development—through the various stages of a complex and progressive civilization, broadened by the discovery of her navigators and the assumption of the responsibility of colonial government of her own and alien races, ameliorated by the responsiveness of her statesmen to popular ideas, thus solving the perplexing problems of organization and administration, enlightened by the brilliant achievements of her scientists and of her littérateurs, ennobled by the ethical teachings of her philosophers and uplifted by the inspiration of her poets and by the marvelous creations of her sculptors, her painters and her architects—is the fruition of that universal genius, which is regenerating and immortal. This has enabled France to maintain a leading position in the onward march of civilization and to mold her institutions in conformity to the world’s approved ethical and political standards.

It is not necessary to enumerate her contributions to art, to literature or to science further than to call attention to the fact that her celebrated[21] Pierre Simonde de Laplace was the first to unfold the Nebular Hypothesis in his “Exposition du Système du Monde” to account for the formation of the solar system, and that her Charles Messier was the first to catalogue stationary objects so faint as to be hardly observable through his small telescope and by him first named “nebulae.” The diaphanous, spiral convolutions in such of these, as the great green nebula in Orion, the brilliant white nebula in Andromeda and the whirlpool nebula in Canes Venatici, by the aid of powerful telescopes, may now be photographed and by the revelations of the spectroscope, their dimensions, character and composition may be determined.

If these nebulae, first discovered by Messier, be distant universes, not unlike the Milky Way, as suggested by Dr. Edward Arthur Fath, who estimates the diameter of the nebula in Andromeda at thirty-five trillions of miles, we at most have but little conception of their magnitude and the wonders of the realms of infinite space about us. The contributions of Laplace and Messier as well as of Lalande, Leverrier and others to astronomy indicate to some extent the leading position France has always taken in the domain of science and original research. All nations recognize that La France est la patrie des sciences et des arts.

Her contributions to civilization and to the world’s diplomacy entitle her to the gratitude of other civilized nations.

The people of this nation are especially grateful to France for her services in opening up the heart of this continent to its early settlers, for her assistance to our people in their struggle for independence and for other acts of friendship, gratefully acknowledged elsewhere in this Report, the last of which is beautifully expressed in the gift of the Rodin bust, “La France.”


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III. SOCIAL FUNCTIONS AND HOSPITALITIES EXTENDED TO THE FRENCH VISITORS IN NEW YORK, WASHINGTON, PHILADELPHIA, BOSTON AND ELSEWHERE

Upon their disembarkation, the visitors took rooms in the Hotel Vanderbilt. In the evening, they witnessed “Les Fourberies de Scapin” of Molière, played by the students of French in the College of the City of New York at the Carnegie Lyceum, and also the French version of an English play. On April 27, 1912, Mayor Gaynor received the delegation in the City Hall of New York and expressed his pleasure at their safe arrival in the city. M. Hanotaux replied that it was an honor to present their respects to the first citizen of the great city of New York. On the same day, members of the French delegation and members of the Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commissions were tendered a luncheon at the Metropolitan Club in New York by Hon. McDougall Hawkes, chairman of the American Board of the French Institute in the United States. Mr. Hawkes in a graceful address welcomed the guests and extended an invitation to the First Loan Exhibit of the Institute that afternoon. In the course of his address he said:

Your visit, Mons. Hanotaux, with other distinguished delegates from France, who have come on so flattering and pleasing a mission, will constitute a strong landmark in what has been so interestingly termed by the distinguished librarian of the city of Paris, Marcel Poëte, the intellectual expansion of France in the United States. This so-called expansion, based on intellectual relations between the two countries, is in fact a natural corollary to other relations, which for more than three centuries and a half, have inclined each towards the other in common sympathies. (Applause.)

He was followed by Ambassador Jusserand, Mayor Gaynor, Baron D’Estournelles de Constant, M. Louis Barthou, Mr. Paul Fuller, who[26] spoke in French, and others. At the Loan Exposition that followed in the East Gallery of the building of the American Arts Society, John W. Alexander, President of the National Academy of Design and a Trustee of the French Institute in the United States, in a brief address spoke of the cordial reception given in France to students of art from this country and welcomed the delegation in a most cordial manner to the Institute. M. Fernand Cormon, President of the Fine Arts Academy of France, expressed his thanks for the cordial welcome they had received and declared that

such occasions as the opening of the Museum of French Art in this country would do much to bring artists of the two countries into closer communication and would multiply the means and the occasions, through which Americans and the French could better know and appreciate one another. For this good work, which has been so auspiciously begun to-day, you will have our active co-operation and I extend to you our sincere thanks. (Applause.)

On the following morning the members of the French delegation and the members of the Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commissions were received by former Senator William A. Clark at his Fifth Avenue home and shown through his unique and valuable art collections, in which the visitors expressed deep interest. They were surprised to find so extensive and rare a collection in private hands, and congratulated Senator Clark upon his acquisition and possession of it.

Members of the delegation took the afternoon train for Washington, where they were met by Mr. Chandler Hale, Third Assistant Secretary of State, an aide-de-camp of the President, and Count de Peretti de la Rocca, Counsellor to the French Ambassador. On April 29th they were accompanied by Secretary of War, Henry L. Stimson, Major-General Leonard Wood, General Oliver and others on the Dolphin to Mount Vernon, where M. Hanotaux on behalf of his compatriots placed a wreath of flowers on the tomb of President Washington.

By courtesy of Byron, N. Y. City

Steamship France, that Transported French Delegation with Rodin Bust from France to New York

On their return to Washington, Ambassador and Mme. Jusserand tendered them a reception at the French Embassy, which was attended by the diplomatic corps and others, and later the National Press Club[27] also gave them a reception. In the evening Ambassador and Mrs. Jusserand gave them a dinner at the French Embassy, which was followed by a ball given by Mr. John Barrett at the Pan-American Building.

On Tuesday morning, April 30th, they visited the Congressional Library, the Supreme Court, the Senate and the House of Representatives and were then entertained at luncheon at the White House by President and Mrs. Taft, where informal expressions of good will concluded the Washington visit.

They returned to New York in the afternoon and were given a reception and dinner by La Compagnie Générale Transatlantique on board the new steamship France, said to be one of the most artistically decorated vessels that ever entered the harbor of New York and flying the largest American flag ever unfurled from the masthead of any vessel, the gift of Ambassador Robert Bacon to this ship on her maiden voyage. Members of the Champlain Tercentenary Commissions were also guests at the dinner, at which M. Paul Faguet, general agent of the company, presided. Among the speakers were M. J. Dal Piaz, director-general of the company, Ambassador Jusserand, M. Gabriel Hanotaux and others. Later in the evening, the Society of the Cincinnati held a reception at the beautiful home of Mr. and Mrs. Charles B. Alexander at No. 4 West 58th Street, at which the members of the French delegation and the members of the Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commissions were guests. On the following day, some members of the French delegation accompanied by Ambassador Robert Bacon went to Boston and were met by Prof. W. H. Schofield of Harvard and William Rotch, president of the Alliance Française at the south station. They were entertained at breakfast by Prof. Schofield and at luncheon by President Lowell of Harvard, where they addressed the students in French. Later in the afternoon they visited the State House and were presented to Governor Foss. Other members of the delegation went to Philadelphia, visited the University of Pennsylvania and Independence Hall, where they saw many[28] portraits of notable persons, including those of Marquis de Lafayette, Count de Rochambeau, Count Matthieu Dumas, the general’s aide, and others, in which they were deeply interested. They were then entertained at luncheon by the Hon. Charlemagne Tower, former Ambassador to Germany, and Mrs. Tower, at which luncheon were Dr. and Mrs. S. Weir Mitchell, Mr. and Mrs. Frank Rosengarten and others.

Copyrighted and by courtesy of Drucker & Co., N. Y. City

Banquet to French Delegation at Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, New York City, May 1, 1912

[31]

IV. BANQUET AT THE WALDORF-ASTORIA HOTEL, NEW YORK CITY, MAY 1, 1912, AND PRESENTATION OF RODIN BUST “LA FRANCE”

All the members of the delegation returned to New York in the afternoon to attend the principal State banquet tendered to them under the auspices of the Lake Champlain Association and the Tercentenary Commissions of New York and Vermont at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in the evening of May 1, 1912. The Astor gallery of the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel where the dinner was served, was beautifully decorated with flowers and the flags of the two nations, intertwined, emblematic of the intimate friendship existing between France and the United States. Elaborate and beautifully designed menu cards with photographs of the Champlain memorials and with the names of the French delegation were provided and all other ante-prandial arrangements had been carefully looked after by the Hon. Frank S. Witherbee and Percival Wilds, the president and secretary of the Lake Champlain Association, and by Hon. Howland Pell of the New York Tercentenary Commission, to all of whom much credit is due for the success of the banquet.

* * * * * Just in time to banquet
The illustrious company assembled here. * * *

On the dais were seated thirty-one of the distinguished guests, including President John H. Finley of the College of the City of New York, the Toastmaster, Ambassador Jusserand, Attorney-General George W. Wickersham, representing the President of the United States, General Horace Porter, former Ambassador to France, Hon. Robert Bacon, former Ambassador to France, Lieutenant-Governor Thomas F. Conway, Mayor William J. Gaynor, Hon. A. Barton Hepburn, members of the French delegation, some members of the Lake Champlain Tercentenary[32] Commissions and others. The other members of the Tercentenary Commissions and the other guests were grouped around thirty-two separate tables, and among them were General Stewart L. Woodford, former Ambassador to Spain, Governor John A. Mead of Vermont, Hon. Francis Lynde Stetson, General Charles Davis, Adjutant-General William Verbeck, Hon. J. G. McCullough, Hon. Frank S. Witherbee, Hon. Henry W. Taft, Hon. Charles B. Alexander, Hon. McDougall Hawkes, Hon. William A. Clark, Stephen H. P. Pell, Esq., Philip Livingston, T. J. Oakley Rhinelander, Hon. Peter Barlow, Hon. Francis K. Pendleton, Hon. Rhinelander Waldo, Hon. Bird S. Coler, A. Eugene Gallatin, Hon. Edward W. Hatch, Hon. Chester B. McLaughlin, Bashford A. Dean, Esq., Hon. John F. O’Brien, Hon. Darwin P. Kingsley, Hon. Frederic R. Coudert, Dr. Lewis Francis, Viscount de Jean, Count Jacques de Portales, Count Henri de Saint Seine, Count de La Fayette, M. Étienne Marie Louis Lanel, Hon. Edward H. Butler, William P. Northrup and others.

The three hundred guests represented many of the historic families of France and America, which had played an important part in the history of the two countries. It was a notable assemblage and thoroughly representative of the official life, culture and best citizenship of the two nations.

After toasts to the President of the United States and to the President of France, the band played The Star Spangled Banner and La Marseillaise. Other national airs of France and the United States interspersed the speeches and were productive of convivial feeling.

President Finley had before him on the table the keystone taken from over the door of the birthplace of Samuel Champlain in Brouage. It was encircled by the French flags on the table. His illuminating and charming articles on “The French in the Heart of America,” commencing in Scribner’s Magazine for September, 1912, and continuing in succeeding numbers of that periodical, show the wide extent of the French settlements in America and something of America’s indebtedness to France.

[33]

Address of President John H. Finley

My selection (by those representing the two Champlain Tercentenary Commissions and by the Champlain Association, to whose officers the success of this great occasion is to be credited)—my selection for this office to-night is due to no fitness except the degree of my devotion to Champlain and the degree of my personal debt to France. So far as I know, I am the only man in New York, if not in the United States, who has ever made a pilgrimage to Champlain’s birthplace. And no man in America is more grateful to France for his own birthplace. It is not permitted me to speak my devotion to Champlain and my gratitude to France. I will let this silent stone speak for me—this fragment of rock from the coast of France, which was once a keystone in the arch over the doorway of the home in Brouage in which, by tradition, Champlain was born. I have brought it across the sea, in a French vessel, to rebuild it in some monument here or in Canada, or between the two countries. To-night it is garlanded by flowers grown in America—in tribute to that Brouage boy who has made American wildernesses blossom as the rose. And I pour upon its face a libation in the wine of the land for whose glory he dared, as a man, all perils of sea and land and died an exile beneath the gray rock of Quebec, Champlain!

This stone will speak more effectively than my strange vocabulary, the welcome I would give this most distinguished company from France to-day. Here is a bit of France, still unnaturalized, that will vibrate in all its particles with joy when it hears the voices that speak the most beautiful language on earth. (I have only a fear that it will disintegrate in its happiness.)

What I would have this stone say will have eloquent supplement in what will be said by those who represent the Nation, the States of New York and Vermont and the city of New York. These, gentlemen of France, it is my honor to present to you.

Those explorers, priests and coureurs des bois whom Champlain started out into the West gave to the world for all time (and to a new nation for some time at least) that most wonderful of all the valleys in the world, the Mississippi Valley. And it is a noteworthy fact that the three heads of the co-ordinate branches of our government come from that valley and from the banks of the rivers discovered by the French. The Chief Justice of the Supreme Court comes from the River, which Sieur de La Salle with Tonty traced to the Gulf of Mexico. The Speaker of the House of Representatives comes from the banks of that tumultuous and shifting flood known as the Missouri, which Joliet and Marquette saw hurling great[34] trees into the Mississippi. And the President of the United States comes from the banks of a river of that same valley, also discovered, in all probability, by the French,—the river along which they planted their plates of discovery, the river which they called La Belle Rivière. I propose the health of the geographical son of France, the President of the United States, who is represented here to-night by a member of his Cabinet, Attorney-General Wickersham. (Applause.)

As Dr. Finley poured a few drops of champagne over the stone the banqueters went to their feet and cheered enthusiastically. President Finley then presented Attorney-General Wickersham, delegated to represent the President, who spoke as follows:

Address of Attorney-General George W. Wickersham

Mr. Toastmaster, Mr. Ambassador, Members of the French Delegation, Ladies and Gentlemen.—In July, 1909, representatives of France, Canada and the United States, and of the several states bordering on Lake Champlain, united in celebrating the three hundredth anniversary of the discovery of that lake by the great pioneer, whose name it bears. That discovery itself was but the occasion for a savage combat between the Indians, whom Champlain accompanied and the ferocious Iroquois whom they encountered. Only one ray of light struggles through the miserable tale of barbaric celebration of the victory which the French firearms enabled the Hurons to win over their enemies. That ray was the half successful effort made by Champlain to check the infliction by his Indian companions of the usual fiendish tortures upon their prisoners.

Je leur remonstrois que nous n’usions point de ces cruautez, wrote Champlain in the account of his Journeys (Voyages), et que nous les faisions mourir tout d’un coup, et que s’ils vouloyent que je luy donnasse un coup d’arquebuse, j’en serois content. Ils dirent que non, et qu’il ne sentiroit point de mal. Je m’en allay d’avec eux comme fasché de voir tant de cruautez qu’ils exercoient sur ce corps. Comme ils virent que je n’en estois contant, ils m’appelerent et me dirent que je luy donnasse un coup d’arquebuse: ce que je fis, sans qu’il en vist rien; et luy fis passer tous les tourmens qu’il devoit souffrir, d’un coup, plustost que de la voir tyranniser. (Voyages, Oeuvres de Champlain, III, pp. 197-8. Quebec, 1870.)

(I objected that we did not practice these cruelties, and that we killed our enemies with one blow; that I would be content if they would let me shoot him with my arquebuse. They said no; that he felt no pain. I turned away from[35] them as though angered at such cruelty as they were inflicting upon the wretch. Seeing that I was vexed, they called me back and said I could shoot him with my arquebuse, which I did, without his knowing anything, thus ending the agony which he was suffering at one shot, rather than to see him further tormented.)

In all the history of this man we find him the same—brave, simple, humane, unselfish; the embodiment of patriotism and piety—an example of the finest manly qualities.

It was, therefore, fitting that in perpetual memory of Samuel Champlain there should be erected at the scene of the combat that signalized the discovery of this lake—that same Crown Point that a century and a quarter later was one of the first places to fall before the arms of American colonials in the War of Independence—a lighthouse, whose beams shining through the darkness of the night, even as the compassion of the good Champlain lightened the path of Stygian horrors to the poor suffering savage whose miseries he ended, may warn and guide the mariners on those dangerous waters, through dark and stormy nights, to the safe haven where they would be.

And it is, therefore, a worthy object that brings this Embassy of the French Nation from over seas to install at that lighthouse a bronze bas-relief of France, wrought by the hands of one of the greatest of living sculptors—that Rodin, whose name is as well known in America as in his native country; a token which will remain there as an abiding symbol of the intimate part and mighty influence which the French people have had in the history and development of America.

How many illustrious French names are written in the history of this continent, from the earliest days of struggle with the miseries of rigorous climate and savage aborigines, down to the cession by Napoleon of the vast territory of Louisiana! What a roll of noble names of men who sacrificed all that makes life pleasant, in the pursuit of ideals in which no thought of self entered, save the hope and vision of that day when they should be greeted with the words:

Come, ye blessed of my Father, inherit the kingdom prepared for you from the foundation of the world.

The names of Cartier, Le Jeune, Brébeuf, Lalemant, La Salle, Joliet, Frontenac, Hennepin, Marquette, Champlain, and many others rise before us. But among them all, none is more worthy to be remembered than that of Samuel de Champlain. When, in 1640, Père Le Jeune visited a place in the country of the Hurons where Champlain had stopped longest in a journey he had made there twenty-two years before, he recorded that,

sa reputation vit encore dans l’esprit de ces peuples barbares, qui honorent mesme après tant d’années plusieurs belles vertus qu’ils admiroient en luy, et particulierement sa chasteté et continence envers les femmes.

[36]

(his reputation still lives in the minds of these barbarous peoples, who honor, even after so many years, many excellent virtues which they admired in him, and in particular his chastity and continence with respect to the women).

And the good Le Jeune exclaims:

Pleust à Dieu que tous les François qui les premiers sont venus en ces contrées lui eussent esté semblables. (Jesuit Relations, Vol. XX, p. 18.)

(Would to God that all the French who came first to this country had been like unto him.)

In 1599, several years before coming to Canada, Champlain visited the Isthmus of Panama, and noted that if a canal were cut across it one could pass from one ocean to the other, thus shortening the distance from Spain to Peru by more than fifteen hundred leagues. And as this Frenchman was the first[2] to lay that project of the Panama Canal before the world, so another great Frenchman, de Lesseps, was the first to put the idea into practical application; and after proving that its accomplishment was only possible if undertaken by a Government, to hand it over to the traditional friend of France,—its successor in the ownership of the great territory of Louisiana—to complete the divorcement of the continent, which, as Champlain wrote, would divide America into two islands: one from Panama to the Straits of Magellan, and the other from Panama to the new lands (Terres Noeufves).

In 1878 we celebrated the centennial anniversary of the Treaty of Alliance, and the Treaty of Amity and Commerce, with France.

In 1903 we celebrated the centennial anniversary of the Treaty of Cession of Louisiana.

In 1904 we concluded the purchase from the French Panama Canal Company of its interests in the Isthmian Canal.

In 1909 we celebrated the three hundredth anniversary of the discovery by Champlain of the great lake with which his name is forever linked.

To-night, in the name and on behalf of the President of the United States, I welcome the Embassy from the French people that brings to the American people a token of the perpetual friendship which an indissoluble union in the past makes sure of continuance in the future.

[37]

No more distinguished or representative Embassy has ever come bearing the greetings of one people to another. Glancing over the names of those that comprise it, one sees those of the most distinguished exponents of all that is best in French national life. History, Literature, Art, Journalism; the cause of International Peace, and Arms, which ensure its continuance; Industry, Commerce and Sport—all these are represented. To one and all of you, America extends a welcome. And in the name, and on behalf, of the President of the United States I accept this bronze relief of France, which will be erected on the lighthouse at Crown Point, as a perpetual reminder of the good will of that people who are united with us by the memory of many evidences of disinterested friendship in the past and of a common devotion to Republican principles in the present. (Applause.)

President Finley then introduced Ambassador Jusserand as follows:

We welcome the special embassies that come from time to time, but that is partly because of our affection and admiration for the permanent Ambassador from the Republic of France. It was rumored a few days ago that he was to be promoted to another court. Of course, in our opinion transfer to another court is not a promotion. But in any event, we are sure of this: that court is the most fortunate to whose sovereign he is accredited. I propose the health of the sovereign who has accredited him to us, the President of the French Republic.

Address of Ambassador Jusserand

I have been accredited to the United States almost ten years, and although this beats the record of any of my predecessors, from the founding of this Republic, this space of time, spent in such a friendly country, among a people that has never allowed me to feel that I was not in my own land, has passed for me like a day. What has just been said by our Chairman, an historian, a thinker, a man of action, a scientist who has delighted the French of to-day by his studies of the French of the past, showing to both a similar broad sympathy, touches me deeply. I cannot imagine with the sound of his words in my ears, what amount of time would ever seem long to me, in a post where the President of the French Republic and his representative are spoken of in such a fashion by such a friend.

It was my privilege, three years ago, to attend, in the society of the President of the United States, memorable ceremonies, lasting several days, held by the[38] Sons of America in honor of a son of France, Samuel Champlain. The year was a busy one for President Taft, since it was a tariff year, yet he did not hesitate to lend his presence to festivities for which, in every bay, on every promontory, in every city, his eloquence, good humor and good grace were in ceaseless request. He had been advised that one speech would be expected of him, and I had received the same notification; so we had each prepared one, but he had to deliver six and I five; Ambassador Bryce had a similar fate, such being the way of the world, and especially of the New World.

Many of you, I am sure, remember the grandeur of the ceremonies to which a peerless landscape lent its lovely background, and the summer sun its splendor, and the Champlain Commission the charms of a most gracious hospitality; the visits to Ticonderoga just rising from its ruins, to Bluff Point, Plattsburgh, Burlington; the excellent addresses of President Taft, of Ambassador Bryce, Senator Root, Mr. Lemieux of Canada and so many others, and you remember too with what alacrity New York and Vermont vied with each other, Governor Hughes and Governor Prouty making everybody welcome and delighting innumerable hearers with the wit and wisdom of their speeches.

But this was not enough, and with that warmth of heart so characteristic of this nation, you have desired that permanent memorials should, to the end of time, bear testimony to the gratitude due to Champlain, not only for the discoveries he made, but also for the examples he left us. When this intention became known to my compatriots, it profoundly touched them, and they begged permission to take part in these homages, thus evidencing once more, the unity of feeling between the two Republics east and west of the great Ocean. Hence the coming to these shores of the Delegation headed by Mr. Hanotaux which you are welcoming to-night, a representative one, where the French Academy, the French Parliament, the French Army, French art, science, industry, commerce, press and, let us not forget that Franco-American art, aviation, have their spokesmen.

The news of your intentions moved the more deeply the hearts of my compatriots that, after a long interruption, the task of Champlain, that task so well described by our Chairman of to-night, President Finley, in his Sorbonne lectures, has been resumed in the same spirit by our Republic of to-day.

“The French,” wrote in the sixteenth century the great Italian poet Tasso, “are by nature unable to stand still and do nothing. When they cease to be in action, they wither like the mechanism of a clock that gets rusty if not in use.” We have been in no danger in these latter years, of rusting. If, on several continents, success has attended our efforts, it is because we took our inspiration from the precepts and examples left by the far-off ancestors, Champlain and his peers. Justice, friendliness, a desire to help and improve, must ever be among the chief articles[39] of the colonist’s creed. The one sense to which throughout the world, even the lowest type of humanity responds, is the sense of Justice.

Such was the opinion of your leaders too, of Washington above all others, who wrote to Lafayette: “The basis of our proceedings with the Indian nations has been and shall be Justice.” And, at this day, in the distant Philippine Islands, where schools have so much multiplied and President Taft has left, as a Governor, such noteworthy examples, this rule is known to be your rule.

As for our own men they felt in the same way, that the contact with the white man ought to be a blessing, not a bane, to the less advanced races. Champlain, Joliet, La Salle were of one mind and opposed to the best of their ability the sale of “fire-water” to the natives; and a similar principle continues in force to-day in your Indian reservations. As to the development of the country by slave labor or by that of hired servants, Charlevoix wrote those memorable words: “I should prefer the last. When the time of their service is expired, they become inhabitants and increase the number of the King’s natural subjects, whereas the first are always strangers: and who can be assured that, by continually increasing in our colonies, they will not one day become formidable enemies? Can we depend upon slaves who are only attached to us by fear and for whom the very land where they are born has not the dear name of Mother-country?”

In this, as is so often the case, interest and virtue combine: both give the colonist the same advice; which, as mankind progresses, it will be more and more dangerous to discard. The measure of success we have reached is, I hope, founded on no less stable a basis. What this success has been and whether we are or not worthy compatriots of Champlain, let those determine who have recently visited our colonial empire; and I for one would gladly abide by the judgment of such American travelers as Edgar Allen Forbes, in his Land of the White Helmet.

By this delegation an image is brought to you, the image of France. More than once before, under one form or another, when the struggle was for independence or for greatness, it appeared on these shores, and was a good omen. The exchange of tokens of friendship between two nations with so much in common in the past, so much in the future, with their similar aims, has been ceaseless. Be assured that our hearts beat in unison with yours, and will ever remember with gratitude what is now being done to honor a son of France by the states of New York and Vermont, and by that generous, hospitable, tireless committee, the Champlain Committee.

The ancients used to place amulets as harbingers of good luck in the foundations of their great buildings. The figure of France to be placed on the base of the Champlain monument is being offered to you, not merely as a thing of beauty, but also as an amulet to bring luck to a nation whom we have never ceased to love. (Applause.)

[40]

In presenting the next speaker, President Finley said:

A few weeks ago I was in great peril of losing my life by falling off the western boundary of the State of New York into the Niagara river. I was trying to follow the path of the Frenchmen who carried from Lake Ontario to a point several miles above the Falls, the equipment for the first sailing vessel to navigate the waters of the Upper Lakes. While I was climbing to a narrow ledge of rock covered with ice, a hundred feet above the river, I appreciated as never before the hardihood of the French explorers and the dearness of the soil of New York to me. I have a particular satisfaction in being able to stand here to-night and to introduce to you the Acting Governor of this Empire State, Governor Conway.

Address of Lieutenant-Governor Thomas F. Conway

The discovery of Lake Champlain, the tercentenary of which we celebrate, was an event of transcendent importance. Viewed from the standpoint of scenic grandeur, this magnificent body of water with its setting of mountains, valleys and islands, presents a picture of unrivaled beauty and sublimity unsurpassed upon the face of the earth. Viewed from the standpoint of history, the Champlain Valley was, from the time of its discovery until the close of the Revolution, the scene of events of world-wide interest; events that have had an important bearing upon the history of modern times. It was upon its shores the first battle between Champlain and the Iroquois was fought and, according to the most authentic evidence, at this identical spot that the plaque “La France” is to be placed. It was also upon its shores, near Ticonderoga, that the intrepid Montcalm defeated Lord Abercromby and, for the time, stayed the aggression of the English in their efforts to control the destinies of the Western world. It was upon its waters the first naval battle of the Revolution was fought, at Valcour, between Benedict Arnold, commanding the American fleet, and Sir Guy Carleton, commanding the British squadron. It was also upon its waters, in Plattsburgh Bay, that the last naval battle of the war of 1812 took place between the American fleet commanded by the brave Commodore Macdonough, and the British by the equally intrepid commander, Downie—a battle which is now considered one of the decisive battles of the world.

Its discovery, therefore, and the events surrounding and following it richly merited its tercentenary celebration and this, its culminating and crowning feature.[41] Indeed, this celebration in itself is an event of striking significance. It stamps indelibly upon the life and work of Samuel Champlain the world’s verdict. It attests its judgment of their nobility and value and vindicates the judgment of his contemporaries in conferring high honor and commendation upon him.

It demonstrates in a most impressive manner the fact that nobility of character and unselfish devotion to ideals and purposes which lead upward and onward in human progress, constitute the true path to immortality of fame. Actuated by a desire to bring to the New World a knowledge of the faith, the philosophy and the civilization of his native land, more than by motives of conquest, or to extend its territorial dominion, he exemplified in his conduct the distinguishing traits of the colonial policy of his nation, which then and ever since has been characterized by a desire to confer benefits upon new subjects while acquiring dominion without bloodshed or destruction; its recognition of the right of every people to give expression to their ideals, their genius and their national aspirations in laws and institutions established by themselves.

The influence of his example and the effect of his work have been profound and abiding.

The first white man to set foot within the borders of what has become the Empire State of the Union, he doubtless was fired with the ambition to make it a part of New France. He found it peopled by the most powerful native tribes inhabiting the New World.

The Five Nations, represented in the Long House of the Iroquois, dominated the region, and were, and had been for more than a century thoroughly organized for defense and aggression. Its confederation evinced political genius of a high order. In their warfare with the Algonquians of the St. Lawrence Valley, and other native tribes, they had made the beautiful Champlain an almost constant scene of conflict and carnage; so much so that its fertile valleys and beautiful shores ceased to be inhabited, except as the various warrior bands camped upon them temporarily in their expeditions of plunder and destruction.

Later, in the prolonged struggles of the two greatest nations of the time, France and England, to establish their authority and enforce their respective civilizations upon the New World, the alliance of the Long House of the Iroquois with the English forces determined the conflict in their favor and thus ended the effort inaugurated by Champlain to establish the dominion of France over a large territory of which he was the discoverer.

While, as a result, the civic policy of the country was thereafter dominated by British power and influence down to the time of the Revolution, nevertheless, the memory of the valor and the heroism of explorers like Champlain and of missionaries like Marquette, La Salle, and their co-workers, left their enduring impress[42] for good, not only upon the civilization of our State, but upon that of our whole country.

For all this we owe a debt of gratitude to France, hardly less than the debt we owe it for its unselfish and priceless assistance in our struggle for independence.

In the three hundred years since the discovery of the lake and region identified with the name of Champlain, the world has witnessed a greater advance in intelligence, in human progress, in the principle of liberty and in the recognition and protection by governments of the rights of the ordinary man, than in any similar period in recorded history.

To the intelligent observer it is evident that this advance is to-day progressing with undiminished force on the basis of individual freedom, individual responsibility and self-imposed restraint, which constitute the inspiration, the steadying force and the vitalizing principle of true progress.

Proof of all this confronts us in every land to-day; but, as convincing and pertinent evidence on this occasion, reference need only be made to progress in the region with which the name and fame of Samuel Champlain are imperishably associated.

I am glad that our distinguished guests from France are to visit that region and especially the beautiful lake bearing his name, and contrast existing conditions with the earlier scenes of savage warfare and bloodshed there enacted by the natives prior to Champlain’s advent, and subsequently, during the struggle for supremacy between the two great contending nations of that day.

We would have you see the peaceful and tranquil aspect of that beautiful lake now with its bosom dotted with splendid steamers, the instrumentalities of pleasure and commerce; the well equipped railroads skirting its shores, required and maintained by the enterprise and business activities there existing; the prosperous cities, the thriving villages, the well-kept and productive farms; the contented and happy homes; the schools, the churches, the hospitals, the charitable organizations; in short, every institution in which a most advanced civilization finds its best expression and through which it performs its best and most elevating service for mankind.

It will enable you to better understand and appreciate the depth of our gratitude to your great countryman and the meaning we attach to this celebration commemorating his achievements.

On behalf of the state of New York and its upwards of nine millions of inhabitants, for whom I have the privilege and honor to speak on this occasion, I extend to our distinguished guests from France a most cordial and heartfelt welcome.

And, if I may be permitted to anticipate a little, I will convey to them in[43] advance and, through them, to their country, the appreciation and gratitude of our state and its people for the gift they bring and the honor they do us. It is the conception of a great artist, admirably typifying the ideals and aspirations of a great nation. I beg to assure you, our honored guests, that we will ever treasure it as an expression of the good will and friendship of our sister republic—France—placing the seal of its approval and appreciation on this celebration honoring the achievements of Samuel Champlain.

In closing, permit me to say that the recollection of your visit to our state and the motives that inspired it will ever be associated with the gift of your country, lending to it an element of personal interest as pleasing as it will be permanent in the minds and hearts of all who may have the privilege of meeting you during your visit. (Applause.)

By courtesy of Shover, Montpelier, Vt.

GOVERNOR JOHN A. MEAD
Chairman of the Vermont Commission

In alluding to the Governor of Vermont, President Finley remarked:

The Governor of Vermont, with rare forbearance, wishes to be excused from speaking. But as Jacques Cartier, nearly a century before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth, saw, first of Europeans, the peaks of the Green mountains, so I wish you, from the land of the pilot of St. Malo, to see the topmost peak in Vermont to-day, its Governor, the Hon. John A. Mead.

Governor Mead stood and bowed to the audience. (Applause.)

The Toastmaster then introduced Mayor William J. Gaynor of New York City.

When in the most beautiful and largest city in the southwest of France a year ago (Bordeaux), I learned, to my surprise, that the great philosopher and essayist, Montaigne, had been its mayor. And it is possible that generations hence the distinction of Mr. Gaynor as Mayor may be surpassed even by his fame as a philosopher. Certainly no man in public life to-day is writing in his everyday letters with such pungency and appeal on some of the problems of life, which continue to disturb mankind.

Address of Mayor William J. Gaynor

I am sure, said the Mayor, I am quite willing to say nothing and to write another letter. (Laughter and applause.) This is the third time I have greeted the delegation[44] from France. Once was at the City Hall and the other time was at a luncheon at the Metropolitan Club. And I am very anxious to hear M. Hanotaux. The coming of these gentlemen will cause us to think a great deal about what we owe to France and to the French people.

You women, the Mayor added, with his eyes twinkling, might well consider the economy of the woman of France. She knows her market prices and she goes to market. (Laughter and applause.) I think if some of you will follow her example the cost of living will begin to come down right away. (Laughter.)

There never was a time, I believe, when in the hearts of the American people there was any danger of forgetting what we owe to France. (Applause.)

President Finley then presented the French delegation as follows:

And now, ladies and gentlemen, how shall I characterize to you the men who constitute this notable delegation? I wish I were able to do so in my own tongue as did Baron d’Estournelles de Constant so eloquently a few days ago in an acquired tongue,—to tell you how this great historian and statesman, Hanotaux, has, with an art which only a Greek or a Frenchman could command, gathered into this company men representing every high interest of France to carry this symbol of international good will to our Republic and affix it to our monument, in eternal memory of their countryman.

Two members of the French Academy, M. René Bazin and M. Lamy; a foremost representative of the art of France, M. Cormon; two members of Parliament, one already our well-beloved friend, Sénateur Baron d’Estournelles de Constant, and M. Louis Barthou; the great geographer, Vidal de la Blache; General Lebon; the riders of the sea and the riders of the air; and then, the representatives of two great families who have been especially distinguished in America’s service. What art of selection! I must, however, be content simply to name to you the speakers already so well introduced to you. I present first, M. Gabriel Hanotaux.

M. Hanotaux responded in French, but he supplied the following English version of his address.

[45]

Address of His Excellency, Albert Auguste Gabrielle Hanotaux

Gentlemen.—The French Delegation you have so cordially welcomed is fully aware that this is the most important stage of its journey. For, albeit we are going to Lake Champlain to personally place in the hands of the architects of the monument, the bust of “La France” which is to be fixed there as a seal of friendship and gratitude, it is here that we make the formal presentation to the Commissions and, through them, to the world of friends which France has in the United States.

Here in New York, in this Empire City, where so much of past effort and present energy are concentrated, where five millions of human hearts beat in unison for the greater glory and ultimate triumph of humanity, we have met with a touching, affectionate and splendid reception which speaks to us of the warm-heartedness of the Great American Republic.

From the moment we placed foot upon this soil we have been captivated and carried away by such a whirlwind of cordiality and good-fellowship that we scarce have had time to recover ourselves. First of all the American branches of the Comité France-Amérique were there to receive us, and, at once, we recognized within their ranks the eminent men who by reason of their origin, their connections or their particularly elegant culture have linked themselves of their own accord with our beloved France. Nothing could have touched us more than this first reception. France, France itself before us, beyond the mighty ocean we had just crossed under such thrilling conditions on the morrow of an awful disaster. On the other hand, and you, gentlemen, will not, I trust, forget it, the first vessel which came to you, after so dire a catastrophe, bearing words of comfort and hope was named “France.”

Our welcome, already so touching, grew apace. Our eminent ambassador to the United States, Monsieur Jusserand, who has given so much of his time and taken so much trouble, to organize this mission, which he himself conceived, informed Mr. Taft, the President of the United States, of our desire to present to him the respectful homage of the delegation.

The President, despite his overwhelming occupations, received us at his table; in the very kindest manner he honored, in our persons, the thought which has brought us here. He was so kind as to give us personally, in connection with our visit, assurances of his encouragement and approval; which have been for us an ample reward. These countless acts of friendship of all kinds we have looked upon—and rightly so—as being addressed to our beloved Mother-Country and to the Government of the French Republic, which has so splendidly encouraged and aided us in the accomplishment of our mission.

[46]

Travelling through a part of the American continent on our way to Washington, we were able to admire the ever-increasing progress and masterful civilization of your Republic. We left the city of five million souls, so concentrated in its immensity that in a manner it rises skyward upon itself; we passed through an admirable country, looking, at this season of the year, like some great garden dotted with cottages and shrubs and trees; we crossed majestic rivers which evoked the finest pages of Chateaubriand, the protagonist of the French writers of America; the steel cars carried us with prodigious speed through long tunnels and over iron bridges which groaned beneath the onrushing train; we barely caught sight of Philadelphia, the City of Brotherly Love, for a space at once the citadel and the keystone of American liberty; and we were in another city, a city beautiful, a city verdant, whose noble proportions are worthy of the great nation of which it is the capital, a city planned, we are proud to recall, by an officer of the French army: Major L’Enfant. We were taken to Mount Vernon and there we were thrilled by a greater sight than any we had yet seen: the shrine where you cherish in the most impressive simplicity the memory of the Man whose life was naught else than the constant blending of greatness and simplicity.

And, gentlemen, when on our return here we think of all this greatness, of the endless and unceasing activity, of these wonders heaped upon wonders, when we think of the hundred million human beings living in the United States, earning their substance here, finding here their work, their pleasures, their luxuries and their ideal; loving this land they themselves have created, which belongs to them and to which they belong, proud of an admirable past, confident in a future which gives promise of even greater things, how could our imagination fail to go back to the men who were the first pioneers in this country, to the men who dared its perils and wrested from it its secrets when there were no other European inhabitants.

The accounts of their travels depict them to us, with all their daring, with all their perseverance, their hardships and sufferings and sacrifices; but finally with their slow and hard-won victories over Nature and Fate.

We know that the first among them, fired by the discovery of mines in South America, especially in Peru, sought only gold. Gold there was in very truth, but not where they were looking for it. What a prodigious misunderstanding the mirage of gold caused between this land of plenty and the men who landed here; it cannot be exaggerated, and how little it would have been to the honor of the human race if, at the same time, there had not been another and entirely different mirage born of human determination and intelligence and worthy of the highest aspirations of Man. It is an historical fact that while the conquistadores were seeking gold and only gold, other explorers, the advance guard of science, the[47] conquistadores of the ideal, were sacrificing themselves to a worthier aim: the finding of the northwest passage which around North America was to lead them to China and India. The ones were only discovering new lands that they might mine and impoverish them, the others that they might better know and develop them!

Both mirages, and illusions on both sides; but in the end practical results; so true is it that the dream of the impossible is at times the most active instrument of immediate and useful achievement.

The practical results we have before our eyes; and they came about through the efforts of a third set of explorers whom I will now attempt to recall because one of the most characteristic among them was our illustrious fellow-Frenchman whose memory we are gathered here to honor, Samuel Champlain.

Landing on this new continent, these men were immediately struck by one thing: to how great a degree it resembled the European countries which had given them birth. I want to lay stress upon this point for, to their observant eyes, it was at once a revelation and a surprise. They had to make an effort—can you believe it—to convince themselves that they were not falling upon an imaginary and legendary land, a land of fabulous dreams, a land of the Arabian Nights. Everything here was like their homes and, it is literally true, they could not believe their own eyes.

For you must not forget that the first accounts published about the new world had described it as prodigious, fantastic and out of proportion to anything ever before known. These legends were believed by the credulity of the Middle-Ages, from which we were only just emerging, they were strengthened by the tales so blithely told by travellers for, as the old saying has it, “falsehood is easy to one who comes from afar.” But above all, these legends had been sunk into the minds of men by the startling facts of the early discoveries. In the heavens

... des étoiles nouvelles

a wonderful light, the torrid climes of Central America, Nature so powerful as to be actually deadly, the impenetrable forests, the strange vegetation, the prodigious width of the rivers rolling to the sea, everything combined, but above all Gold, Gold everywhere, Gold in the daily life of all, Gold in the temples, Gold on the ground, Gold in the bowels of the earth, Gold seen and Gold unseen, that is what exalted their overwrought imaginations to madness. It was impossible to admit that this land could be a land like other lands. So that it needed extraordinary common sense (if these two words may be used together), it needed an almost miraculous self-control in these pioneers, in this third set of explorers of which I am speaking, to forsake their preconceived notions and get down to earth again and see that this land was after all a land just like other lands, like the lands from[48] which they had sprung, loamy and fertile and fruitful, where the trees were like European trees, with clusters of vines hanging from the branches; where wheat grew naturally; where the fish of the rivers and sea were the same fish that they had at home, a land where the cattle of the Mother-country waxed fat, and where at the accustomed seasons the welcome sward stretched its mantle of green bedecked with flowers to the very threshold of the abodes of man; where in the fall the countryside was crowned with Gold; where the rule of life was the normal and accustomed rule. Gold was lacking, at least the Gold so greedily sought, but on the other hand in the soil and on the soil Gold there was in very truth and in untold abundance, the Gold of natural wealth—a civilizing, not a destructive Gold. I mean the Gold of labor, the Gold of human brawn, the Gold of intellect, the Gold of inspiration, the Gold which is forever being created by the mind and will of Man; but which was only to open up its ideal mine of surpassing wealth after centuries of sacrifice, of labor, of tenacity, and in exchange for an immense toll of energy.

These new conquistadores, the conquistadores of labor, who set their sails not for the land of dreams, but for the land of the Things-As-They-Are, were the real founders of the mighty civilization which surrounds us, and once again, in the very forefront of their ranks, stands our great fellow-countryman Samuel Champlain.

It was not that these men were lacking in imagination, for imagination is the creative faculty in Man, and especially so in the statesman. To do things is to see ahead. He had indeed a wonderful imagination, a genius for foresight which was uncanny, this extraordinary man who foretold the future of America, who pointed out the location of the Panama Canal, who sketched the development of the great Republic of the United States, who fixed the sites of Boston, Montreal, Quebec and so many other great and prosperous cities. His imagination was active, yes, but his activities were always devoted to useful achievement and love of justice.

He was the first to see that any colony on the American continent would have to be self-supporting, those are his own words. He builded, he planted, he sowed crops, he raised stockades and laid out roads, as a man relying solely upon himself. Having shattered the flimsy phantasy of fabulous Gold he quite simply became a farmer, a soldier, an engineer; and, when upon this land he laid the corner-stone of the first building, he laid at the same time the foundation of a new civilization and created an empire. Once again the nobility of labor had saved the world from the idle vanity of dreams.

Labor!—There is the true basis of American civilization, as founded by those pioneers who understood, such was their common sense, the great things that could be done in the land where they had come to stay.—Labor, the Father of Liberty,[49] the Father of Independence, the Father of Equality and of Justice; in a word the only solid basis of Society.

This, then, is the characteristic—henceforth unchangeable—of your American civilization. Everybody works, and there is work for every one and for all, but there is no room for the idle. The ceaseless activity of your lives shows it. The physical and mental strain to which the richest as well as the poorest of your citizens voluntarily subject themselves proves it. A glance at your way of living shows that you have remained faithful to the principle of your founders. The intense activity we have witnessed during our short trip through your country, and which we find at its highest pitch in this Empire City of New York, what is it but a complete devotion to the duty imposed upon man by the opening words of the Book of Books: “Thou shalt earn thy bread by the sweat of thy brow.” Hence your incomparable greatness.

Blessed be Labor, gentlemen. Go on setting the example of labor to the world. It is not Gold that counts; it is the constant and never ceasing employment of all the faculties of Man. You have already accomplished a prodigious work,—your future achievements will be even more extraordinary. No one can say what the future of this continent will be when the Isthmus of Panama is cut in twain, when the waters of the two oceans shall be joined and the coasts of the two Americas brought together as the leaves of a closing book. It is a new source of wealth, it is a new field of activity and a still wider field of authority and responsibility. Between Asia and Europe your Republic certainly stands as the dividing line of the world. You are at the fulcrum of the scale. The balance of the world’s power will in future rest with you.

But now, at this very time, other problems confront you, and, first of all, let us face it frankly, the problem of the government of the great democracies by themselves.

All this stirs you, occupies your thoughts, and arouses your passions. All this moves, deeply, those who come to visit you. To use the words of the poet of old. They see clearly that in you is being born something greater than an Iliad: “Aliquod majus nascitur Iliade.

In these troublous times, gentlemen, remain true to the law of labor, to the law of those who first planned and laid out your future life. Look back upon those pioneers who, face to face with the early difficulties, foreseeing the growth that was to come and how complex it was to be, bequeathed to you, in order that you might carry out the work, a single and a simple law: the law of labor.

Your commemoration of Champlain, to take our modest part in which we have[50] crossed the ocean, proves how faithful and devoted you are to the memory of the founders.

Courage, Labor, Justice, Faith in the Ideal, such the reasons for these useful lives. We are proud that among them one of the most glorious was that of our fellow-countryman—Champlain. We thank you for cherishing his memory.

And it is to show that France herself joins in these sentiments that we are come here, in such numbers, to bring you for the Champlain monument, erected by the States of New York and Vermont, a bust born of the genius of our illustrious fellow-countryman Rodin, an image of that which we hold most dear: France.

In the mighty structure of American civilization there is something of France—allow us to believe gentlemen that you will not forget it—and on the monument you are erecting this image will remain forever sealed to recall and symbolize that fact. This image we give to you as Champlain, our fellow-countryman, gave the best of his life to this land of yours. We give it to the United States, we give it to the States of New York and Vermont, the builders of the lighthouse rising upon the shores of the lake which bears Champlain’s name; we give it to these Commissions which have so graciously invited us here; we give it to all the friends of France in America.

I raise my glass, gentlemen, to the Lake Champlain Association and the Tercentenary Commissions, and I drink to the imperishable and brotherly union of our two countries: France and America. (Long applause.)

President Finley then presented M. Louis Barthou, who was not on the programme, but who made a most favorable impression on all who had the good fortune to meet him and listen to his charming eloquence. His glowing and felicitous tribute was listened to with rapt attention. Unfortunately his address was not reported and no copy has been obtainable, much to the regret of all who have known him and his prominent position in the affairs of the French Republic. At one time he was the Minister of Justice in the Cabinet and is a noted lawyer as well as one of the leading parliamentarians of the Chamber of Deputies.

President Finley then introduced Baron d’Estournelles de Constant, who spoke in English in his usual felicitous manner in appreciation of the reception tendered to the delegation from France and the hospitality accorded to them in the various American cities which they had visited. The Baron is well known in America, where he has advocated International[51] Peace, and spoke in terms of affection of his friends in America and what they were doing to promote International Peace. It is a matter of regret that his speech was not reported in full so that it could be included in this Final Report.

President Finley then introduced Senator Henry W. Hill, the Secretary of the New York Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission, who on behalf of the two Commissions received the gift of the people of France and expressed the cordial feelings of appreciation with which the beautiful and appropriate bust is received in the following address:

Address of Senator Henry W. Hill

Ambassador Jusserand, Your Excellency Albert Auguste Gabriel Hanotaux, and other Members of the Delegation from France, and Gentlemen of the New York and Vermont Tercentenary Commissions, and of the New York Champlain Association: This is a fitting postlude to the Bi-State programme of International Tercentenary exercises in commemoration of the discovery of one of the most charming lakes in America by the brave and high-minded Samuel Champlain, who believed that “the salvation of one soul is of more value than the conquest of an enemy.” The light of civilization impersonated in his entrance into the Champlain valley and thus first gleaming through the darkness of savagery is to be symbolized in a memorial lighthouse erected by the states of New York and Vermont on property of the United States Government at Crown Point Forts, that location being for 150 years one of the strategic points of the French possessions in America, and the life work of the discoverer is to be further perpetuated by an heroic size statue by the New York sculptor, Carl Augustus Heber, at Plattsburgh. The people of the two States in grateful appreciation of the life, services and high moral character of the discoverer of the lake which bears his name, and who was the first white man to set foot on the soil of New York and Vermont, eleven years before the Pilgrims entered Plymouth Bay, and two months before Henry Hudson discovered the river bearing his name, flowing into this beautiful harbor of New York, conceived and carried forward the Champlain Tercentenary Celebration of 1909, which has awakened deep interest in the principles and common purposes of two Republics, and done much to strengthen the friendship between them, that prompted France to shed across the seas its kindly and beneficent influence upon this Republic in its infancy. In the conduct of that Tercentenary now considered as one of the most noted American commemorative celebrations, the Republic of France represented[52] by its gifted and eloquent patriot and scholar, Ambassador Jusserand, the Kingdom of Great Britain by its distinguished Ambassador Right Honorable James Bryce, the Dominion of Canada by its noted Postmaster-General Lemieux, the Province of Quebec by its gifted Premier Sir Lomer Gouin, the Empire of Japan by its Vice-Admiral, Uriu, and the United States by its President and Secretary of War, and some members of its Senate and House of Representatives, and representatives of the Army and Navy, participated with the States of New York and Vermont, and thus gave it an international character, worthy the important events which it was designed to commemorate.

You would be likely to form a more adequate conception of the magnitude of the Tercentenary Celebration, if you were to picture the Champlain valley, one hundred miles in length, and twenty-five miles in width, with the lake, as stated by Dr. Cady, “a prismed pendant dropped from out the skies,” interspersed with beautiful islands, and buttressed by prominent headlands, as an arena with overtowering mountains on either side, forming a background of superb natural beauty and suggesting ideals of the true and sublime in nature and a sky of Italian beauty vaulting a lake of crystal waters, where five great scenes were presented to thronging thousands of interested spectators—one at Crown Point which projects into the lake so far as nearly to sever it into two sections, where was erected at vast expenditure of money, in 1731, by the French, Fort Frédéric, in honor of the French Secretary of Foreign Affairs, Frédéric Maurepas, under the supervision of the Marquis de Beauharnois, Governor-General of Canada, and later were also erected the English forts by the forces under General Amherst, the forts now forming a grand ruin; another scene twenty miles distant, on the following day, at Ticonderoga, “the Gateway of the Nation,” where was built Fort Carillon, in 1755-6, around which struggled the flower of contending armies of three sovereign nations for its control; another scene, sixty miles distant, at Plattsburgh Barracks, on a plateau overlooking Valcour Island, where occurred one of the chief naval engagements of the Revolution, the report of which electrified the Continental Congress, and also overlooking Plattsburgh Bay, where occurred the decisive naval engagement of the War of 1812, in which the American fleet under Macdonough defeated and routed the British fleet under Downie; and still another scene twenty-five miles distant, on the following day, in the city of Burlington, under the shadow of the university which had been burned during the War of 1812, and whose corner-stone was relaid by Marquis de Lafayette in 1825, and where stands a statue erected to his memory, on a sloping hillside overlooking Burlington Bay, that beautiful Baiae of our inland sea, and the clear waters of the historic lake walled in on the west by the rugged and occasionally[53] snow-capped peaks of the Adirondacks; and the fifth scene, forty-five miles distant, on the following day, at beautiful Isle La Motte, which was the first land in the Champlain valley visited by Samuel Champlain, which had been for two centuries or more the common meeting place of warring Indian tribes, and which became the rendezvous of missionaries, and where in 1666, was built Fort Ste. Anne, and where High Mass was first celebrated in the State of Vermont, and where was stationed the Carignan-Salières Regiment of 600 French veterans. At each of these scenes were Indian pageants, moved from place to place on a floating island, participated in by 150 descendants of the native aboriginal tribes that occupied the Champlain valley, and enlivened by military and naval forces, with formal addresses, speeches and poems, by the President of the United States and the distinguished diplomats, orators and poets in attendance, presenting anew the story and thrilling events that have transpired in the Champlain valley since its discovery three centuries ago. This will afford some conception of the great drama of the Champlain Tercentenary Celebration, in which Samuel Champlain, the navigator, colonizer and apostle of civilization in that valley, Chevalier sans peur et sans reproche, was the hero and central figure.

On this occasion we are profoundly touched at the generosity and friendship of President Fallières and the French people, exhibited in the presentation by the distinguished delegation who have come from France, of this allegorical bust “La France,” by Auguste Rodin, and we gratefully accept the same in the name of the New York and Vermont Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commissions, in behalf of the people of the two states, as well as of the people of the United States, and through you, Monsieur Hanotaux, and other members of your delegation from France, we tender to President Fallières and the people of France, who have so generously contributed to the purchase and presentation of this beautiful bust, our grateful appreciation and acknowledgments.

This work of art, coming as a voluntary expression of the good will and cordial feelings of the French people for Americans who have shown some appreciation of the discoveries and services for humanity of one of the most noted French explorers among many, who were first to open up the interior of this continent to the onward march of civilization, is an imperishable testimonial of that abiding friendship existing between the peoples of the two foremost Republics in the world, which have done so much for the liberty, equality and fraternity of mankind. When we reflect upon the evolution of French institutions from Charlemagne to Fallières, the progress of the French people in the arts and sciences within the last century, and the contributions that they have made to these, and to literature and to art, as well as to the world’s diplomacy and intellectual development, we do not wonder that[54] the Republic across the sea, which you represent, gentlemen, is aglow with vitality and energized by new and expanding ideas, and is forging forward as one of the most progressive and powerful nations in the world. Had not the French people been open to new ideas, possibly they would not have responded to the appeals of Franklin and our other patriots during the Revolution, and the Marquis de Lafayette, Count de Rochambeau, with his 6,000 soldiers, Count de Grasse, with his fleet, and others, would not have crossed the Atlantic to aid the Colonies in their struggle for independence.

Lafayette and others carried back with them something of the inspiration which they had derived from their experience in this country and from their contact with General Washington and other patriots, and their reports did something to arouse the National Assembly of France, and the princes and potentates of European nations to a realization of the evidences of the Republican movement in America as well as in Europe, which culminated in making most of the nations of western Europe more democratic and responsive to popular liberties. On the establishment of a Republican form of government in France in 1848, the President of the United States transmitted a message to Congress, in which he said: “We can never forget that France was our early friend in our eventful Revolution, and generously aided us in shaking off a foreign yoke and becoming a free and independent people. We have enjoyed the blessing of our system of well regulated self-government for nearly three-fourths of a century, and can properly appreciate its value. Our ardent and sincere congratulations are extended to the patriotic people of France upon their noble and thus far successful efforts to found for their future government liberal institutions similar to our own. It is not doubtful that under the benign influence of free institutions the enlightened statesmen of Republican France will find it to be for her true interests and permanent glory to cultivate with the United States the most liberal principles of international intercourse and commercial reciprocity, whereby the happiness and prosperity of both nations will be promoted.” A fitting response to this was made by the National Assembly of France, and there have from that time forth existed cordial relations between the two sister Republics. These relations were emphasized in the presentation by the French people of the colossal statue “Liberty Enlightening the World,” by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, unveiled with elaborate ceremonies on Bedloe’s Island in New York harbor, on October 28, 1886. When the Rodin allegorical bust “La France” is in its permanent home by the Champlain Memorial Light at the Crown Point Forts near the head of Lake Champlain, it will be on the highway of travel by water between New York harbor and Lake Champlain, through the enlarged and improved Champlain Canal nearing completion, and so be brought[55] into communication with the statue of Liberty, and will do something to restore the interest of travelers as well as of our French-American citizens, in the history of that region, for 150 years under control of the French nation, and within a few miles of which at Ticonderoga, Montcalm and others achieved imperishable fame, and will be a further lasting expression of the artistic temperament and proverbial generosity of the French people toward the people of this nation, the genius of whose institutions has been more or less reflected in the evolution of French institutions during the last century. As an expression of one of your most renowned sculptors, it will awaken a deeper interest of the people in that valley in art, which has been ideally expressed in this allegorical bust “La France,” in a way to symbolize the marvelous genius of the French people.

The members of New York and Vermont Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commissions bid you, gentlemen of the French delegation, a most cordial welcome to our shores, and tender to you their deep appreciation of the gift which you bring from your people. (Applause.)


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V. FRENCH DELEGATION ENTERTAINED BY THE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK

On May 2d, The Chamber of Commerce of the State of New York entertained at luncheon the French delegation in the Hall of the Chamber on Liberty street, New York City. Ambassador Jusserand and the visiting delegation and other invited guests were presented to President A. Barton Hepburn by Hon. McDougall Hawkes and then seated on the dais. The flags of the United States and France were entwined behind the President’s chair.

In welcoming the distinguished visitors, President A. Barton Hepburn said:

When this country was struggling to win a place in the sisterhood of nations, without facilities for manufacturing the necessary means for defense, or money to purchase the same, at war with one of the most powerful nations of Europe, supplemented by the inspired hostility of the then powerful tribes of surrounding Indians, poor in purse, rich only in patriotic resolve to win their freedom, with credit shrouded by the gloom of possible, if not probable failure—at this critical juncture France came to our support, with soldiers and ships of war, and rendered the greatest aid in winning our independence.

In addition, France loaned us money. The amount was not large, indeed it was small, compared with present day loans or transactions, but the loan was made at a time when our continental currency was so depreciated, that it has given to our language an expression of worthlessness,—“not worth a continental.”

It was real, metallic money, and the ring of that money resounded throughout the colonies; it strengthened credit and renewed confidence. It was tangible evidence that a great nation believed in us—believed in our future.

At the Battle of Yorktown, which was the crowning victory that assured our independence, France furnished thirty-six ships of the line—the colonies none; of the land forces engaged, France furnished 7,000 veterans—the colonies 5,500 regulars and 3,500 militia. The French fleet, under De Grasse, had previously defeated the British fleet and driven them from the Chesapeake, thereby[60] depriving Cornwallis of all hope of reinforcements from New York, and also cutting off all hope of escape.

We won our independence, but in our self-gratulation, let us not forget the magnitude of the service, and the extent of our obligation to France. Hostility to England, as well as love for America, may have inspired her action, but even so, it does not lessen the service rendered to us.

This powerful alliance kindled anew the fires of patriotism, and roused a countrywide feeling of gratitude and love for France, which has ever since continued. May this feeling grow in intensity with succeeding years!

God grant that these two great commercial nations may find prosperity and happiness in the paths of peace, and side by side, shoulder to shoulder, may their joint influence make for peace and happiness throughout the world. (Applause.)

I have read that the figure upon the coins of France—a woman sowing—symbolizes the idea that France sows while others reap. That is eminently true of the United States and eminently true of North America. When we recall that Canada, the Ohio territory and Louisiana once belonged to France, and recall how relatively small the Spanish province of Florida and the British colonies along the Atlantic Coast were, we realize what an empire on this continent, extending from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the Gulf of Mexico, was once the territory of France.

Her intrepid explorers, her patient priests and devoted missionaries sowed the seeds of civilization in this great territory, and the harvest of their labors we are reaping year by year.

The magnificent statue of Liberty, that ornaments and dignifies our harbor—the creation of a great French artist and sculptor—Bartholdi—was a gift from France.

Our guests visit this country at the present time to place a bas-relief, “La France”—the creation of another great French artist and sculptor—Rodin—upon a monument erected by the states of New York and Vermont, at Crown Point Forts, in memory of the great explorers in this western world, chief among whom ranks Champlain.

Our country was born amid the martial airs and chivalric heroism of the arms of France, and consecrated with the blood of her soldiers and sailors, and ever since she has given continuing proof of her friendship, both actual and sentimental—witness the presence of this distinguished delegation.

Surely our hearts ought to go out to France, as they do, in reciprocal good will, and our prayers be offered, as they are, for her peace, prosperity and happiness.

It is a pleasure and privilege for the commercial representatives of this state to[61] receive and welcome you gentlemen, and I appeal to your kindly imagination to conceive the cordial greetings which we all feel, but which my language fails to express. (Applause.)

President Hepburn then introduced the French Ambassador, J. J. Jusserand, who spoke eloquently on the importance of the extension of the commercial relations between France and the United States and also in appreciation of the hospitality shown in this country to the French delegation, comprising distinguished officials and civilians from the Republic of France.

President Hepburn then presented His Excellency, Gabriel Hanotaux as follows:

“He has won fame as a statesman and as a scholar. For many years he was Minister of Foreign Affairs in the government of France, and in the world of letters has achieved that most enviable distinction—a member of the French Academy. I have the pleasure of presenting M. Gabriel Hanotaux.”

M. Hanotaux was greeted with loud applause and spoke in French.

Address of M. Albert Auguste Gabriel Hanotaux

Monsieur le Président: Si je jette les yeux autour de moi, ma pensée et celle de la délégation tout entière se porte vers les énergies humaines que vous représentez autour de nous. C’est la puissance des États-Unis d’Amérique, c’est cette activité inlassable qui a couvert de ses oeuvres et de ses conquêtes un continent et la planète entière se détournant de ses travaux pour nous faire un splendide et chaleureux accueil. Cette réunion, ces fleurs, ces drapeaux, tout se réunit pour faire sentir à la France combien elle est chère à cette vaillante cité new yorkaise. Mais il y a quelque chose de plus chaud et de plus précieux dans l’accueil que vous nous faites, c’est le mouvement du coeur. Comment vous exprimer notre reconnaissance?

D’ailleurs n’est-ce pas la générosité américaine qui a déterminé le voyage de la Délégation française?

Il y a quelques mois notre éminent ambassadeur, Monsieur Jusserand, qui veille avec tant de compétence à tout ce qui peut rapprocher les deux pays, nous avait signalé la prochaine érection sur les bords du lac Champlain d’un monument en[62] l’honneur de notre vaillant compatriote. Il pensait avec raison que la France ne pouvait rester indifférente à ce beau geste qui en continue tant d’autres analogues. Mais comment la France manifesterait-elle sa gratitude, comment participerait-elle à cette glorification d’un de ses enfants?

Seul, un appel au public et un appel à l’art pouvaient avoir une portée suffisante pour répondre. Par les soins du comité France-Amérique que nous représentons ici, les deux manifestations simultanées se sont produites: le public français a compris et a rapidement souscrit les listes en tête desquelles il trouvait le nom vénéré de Monsieur Fallières, Président de la République Française. En même temps l’art avait fait son oeuvre, et le sculpteur Rodin avait conçu et exécuté l’image de la “France” que nous avions sollicitée de son génie.

C’est cette image que nous avons apportée ici pour qu’elle soit scellée au pied du monument de Champlain, comme un cachet et un sceau authentiquant une fois de plus la fidélité de nos sentiments communs et nos souvenirs.

Vous avez bien voulu arrêter au passage dans cette grande ville la délégation qui va porter le bronze au lieu où il est destiné! Vous savez qu’elle appartient aux diverses grandes institutions et corporations françaises, au Parlement, à l’Académie et à l’Institut, à l’Armée, à l’Université, au Conseil d’État, à l’Industrie, au Commerce, et qu’elle contient trois membres descendant des familles qui ont combattu ou servi à l’époque de la guerre de l’Indépendance, Choiseul, Rochambeau, Lafayette, dont nous avons ici le petit-fils, le Comte de Chambrun. Celui-ci a reçu, en outre, une délégation spéciale de M. le Président du Conseil, Monsieur Raymond Poincaré, et il le représente personnellement.

Ainsi, par-dessus les Océans, une même pensée nous unit. Les États-Unis élèvent un monument à un Français. La France vous envoie, par nous, son tribut de gratitude: une fois de plus les deux grandes démocraties pensent et agissent à l’unisson.

Je ne veux pas tenter ici un parallèle presque impossible entre les deux Républiques, l’une vaste, puissante, jeune, pleine d’élan et de grandeur, l’autre plus à l’étroit sur son territoire resserré dans la vieille Europe, mais elle aussi, active et toujours jeune, éprise d’action, amante de la beauté, apportant à la réalisation de son idéal la plus noble culture peut-être qu’il y ait au monde, puisqu’elle remonte à deux mille ans en arrière aux temps où César conquit la Gaule et où le Christ naquit. Ce qui caractérise toutefois les relations toujours cordiales et toujours fidèles de ces deux pays, c’est que, se développant parallèlement, ils ne se heurtent nulle part. Je crois exprimer un fait réel, à la fois très simple et très fort, en disant, qu’entre la France et les États-Unis d’Amérique, il y a plus d’aptitude à se connaître et à se comprendre qu’entre deux autres pays du monde, quels qu’ils soient.

Et, si l’on me demande pourquoi, je répondrai en employant la formule d’une[63] des proclamations de la Nouvelle-Angleterre, avant la guerre de l’Indépendance, parce que ce sont deux pays “où l’on ne connaît ni suzerains, ni seigneurs, ni princes, mais seulement le peuple.”

Tout donc porte les deux Républiques à l’entente et à l’union: des souvenirs communs, un objectif pareil, une conception semblable de la vie publique. La République américaine et la République française sont les deux filles aînées de la liberté. 1787, l’année de la Constitution américaine et 1789, l’année qui inaugure l’ère moderne en France, ce sont deux grandes dates de nos histoires, et deux grandes dates de l’histoire du monde.

Avec un point de départ presque simultané, les deux pays out suivi leurs voies diverses, l’un occupé à se saisir d’un territoire immense, pliant aux nécessités de cette vie énorme et dispersée ses institutions à la fois fédéralistes et unitaires, ouvrant au vieux monde un asile tutélaire et développant sur son sol, grâce à cet afflux permanent du trop plein des forces humaines, une civilisation qui est l’héritière de toutes les civilisations; l’autre plus unitaire et plus centralisé; plus ramassé et plus fondu, plus traditionnel, mais plus alourdi par le poids du passé, travaillant à faire entrer, dans ses vieux cadres historiques, les puissances d’énergie que la vie moderne exige des sociétés qui veulent garder leur place et leur rang dans la grande famille humaine.

Après cent ans de cet effort parallèle, les voici donc qui apparaissent toutes deux en pleine possession de leur valeur, et avec la conscience de ce qu’elles sont et de ce qu’elles doivent être. N’est-ce pas le moment pour elles deux de se considérer mutuellement et de s’apercevoir, une fois pour toutes, que dans cette marche parallèle, elles se complètent souvent et ne se contrarient jamais?

Puisque je parle ici devant les représentants les plus autorisés du commerce américain, il me paraît facile de prendre le commerce en exemple.

Le commerce est entre les peuples le premier et le plus indispensable des biens. Qui dit commerce dit bon vouloir réciproque, confiance mutuelle et paix. Il est incontestable, qu’à l’origine de toutes les civilisations se trouve le commerce, et quand les premiers navigateurs européens, à commencer par le plus grand de tous, Christophe Colomb,—ont été vers l’Occident à la recherche des terres nouvelles, que prétendaient-ils, sinon trouver des chemins et des débouchés nouveaux? C’est du commerce qu’on peut dire avec raison “Mens agitat molem.”

Or, précisément, dans le commerce franco-américain, une heureuse entente de nos intérêts réciproques nous conduit à cette conviction que, là aussi, bien peu de choses nous séparent, tandis que beaucoup nous rapprochent. L’Amérique produit en abondance des matières premières dont notre industrie a besoin; la France produit des substances alimentaires, et des articles où se distingue spécialement le goût français, et dont le luxe croissant des Amériques aura sans doute toujours besoin. Sur ces bases, les conditions d’une harmonie bien équilibrée peuvent sans trop de[64] difficultés se dégager. Aussi voyons nous que la France est de toutes les nations de l’Europe (l’Angleterre exceptée), celle qui fait le plus d’affaires avec les États-Unis proportionnellement au chiffre de sa population et à l’étendue de son territoire, confirmant ainsi l’observation que je faisais tout à l’heure, à savoir que les lois de l’histoire doivent combiner nos efforts, et que, seule, une erreur inexcusable pourrait les séparer.

C’est pour étendre et appliquer cette opinion,—j’irai jusqu’à dire cette doctrine,—que le comité France-Amérique s’est fondé à Paris, et qu’il est venu devant vous pour travailler au développement des bonnes relations si heureusement existantes entre les deux pays. Dans tous les ordres de manifestations cordiales, on nous trouve et on nous trouvera. C’est là notre rôle et nous le revendiquons hautement.

Relations économiques, relations intellectuelles, relations sociales, relations artistiques, dans tous ces ordres d’idées, nous travaillons dans le même sens et c’est à cette initiative de notre part que nous vous prions de répondre par des sentiments et des actes analogues. Nous sommes venus vers vous; venez vers nous à votre tour.

On dit, de la pensée américaine, qu’elle se formule en termes d’action “to think in terms of action.” Eh bien! nous, nous avons formulé notre sentiment en termes d’action, en venant vingt bons compagnons j’ose le dire, appartenant aux diverses activités françaises, vous apporter pour une grande commémoration, une chose éminemment française, une oeuvre d’art.

Nous avons mûrement réfléchi avant de prendre ce parti et nous vous prions d’y réfléchir à votre tour. Nous n’avons aucun titre officiel; nous sommes de simples particuliers, mais nous nous sommes choisis (si vous me permettez cette expression ambitieuse) dans le désir de ne pas être trop indignes de vous et de votre confiance.

Il y eut un temps où pour la découverte des pays transatlantiques, les premiers pionniers sont partis volontairement de nos rivages: Champlain fut le plus glorieux parmi ces Français: ceux-là étaient les volontaires de la foi et de l’espérance. Il fut un temps où d’autres volontaires partirent pour servir une cause juste et légitime: ceux-là furent les volontaires de la Liberté et de l’Indépendance. Les temps sont changés; les grandes oeuvres sont accomplies. Cependant, nous aussi nous venons spontanément, pour maintenir, du moins, ce qu’ont fait nos aïeux, et nous sommes les volontaires de l’Amitié.

Comment cette amitié qui est un sentiment et qui est la fleur de l’âme s’exprimerait-elle mieux que par une oeuvre d’art, c’est-à-dire la fleur du goût et du génie humain?

L’art, en effet, est l’essence du travail des siècles et ses oeuvres seules survivent aux siècles. Une civilisation achevée s’exprime par l’art: l’art résume toujours ce que l’humanité sent et pense.

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Par quoi connaît-on la grandeur de l’âme artistique, sinon par les monuments artistiques, l’Egypte, la Grèce, Rome, le Moyen-Age nous ont transmis leur pensée par cette langue universelle et immortelle qui s’appelle l’art. Ce que l’humanité veut faire connaître d’elle-même à l’avenir, elle le confie à l’art.

Et c’est pourquoi, comme un symbole de l’amitié franco-américaine, nous avons choisi une belle oeuvre d’art due à notre grand sculpteur Rodin.

A bord d’un bâtiment nouveau et qui s’appelle “La France,” une délégation française est venue pour vous remercier de célébrer un Français.

Par la pensée, par le commerce, par le goût du grand, du beau, du juste, par une foi identique dans la paix entre les hommes, les deux grandes démocraties que l’Océan seul sépare, sont faites pour s’aimer, se comprendre et s’unir.

Nous demandons aux Chambres de Commerce américaines de seconder l’oeuvre d’union que nous avons enterprise.

Merci aux Chambres de Commerce américaines. A tout jamais prospérité, grandeur, bonheur et gloire, à la grande République des États-Unis d’Amérique! (Loud applause.)

President Hepburn introduced the next speaker as follows: There are few homes in this country in which the benign face of Washington does not look down upon the family activities. Serious contemplation of the face of Washington must soon bring into perspective the face of that great Frenchman with whom he was so closely associated, whom he so highly esteemed, Lafayette. We are fortunate in having with us to-day a direct descendant of the great Lafayette, his great-great-grandson. He is upon this delegation as the personal representative of the Premier of the present government of France. I take great pleasure in presenting Count de Chambrun.

Count de Chambrun spoke in English.

Address of Count de Chambrun

Mr. President and Gentlemen: The very character of the present solemnities which have brought this delegation to America awakens with us in France a peculiar feeling of sympathy and grateful retrospection. Our intellectual world, our literary men—all who are versed in historical research and who cherish the great memories of the past—look back with love and pride upon the one time humble heroes whose venturous spirit and whose wonderful foresight made of their[66] own mother country the glorious promoter of civilization. Indeed, the ties uniting France and America have always been popular with us, and our public men have ever justly prized their great and valuable importance; but, in the present instance, the Prime Minister of the French Republic has desired to be personally represented. He, also, a patriot and a man of letters, cannot refrain from emotion when he recalls that page of our common history, when a countryman of ours with scanty means, but with vast courage and genius opened new lands and new prospects to the achievements of humanity.

And this is why M. Raymond Poincaré wishes that his own tribute should not be lacking where honors are bestowed upon our brave Champlain; it is my good fortune, gentlemen, to be the bearer of this heartfelt tribute in memory of the early traveller now famous among our great explorers.

Curiously enough, at different stages, it has been the destiny of Frenchmen to play on this proud continent a decisive part in the interest of the world’s progress. Whether as pioneers in the northern and western dominions, at a remote period when these lands were yet unknown, or later on, in time of need, when the United States sought freedom and independence, was it not Frenchmen who came again with helping swords in a new American cause, where, as volunteers and soldiers, their hearts became enlisted.

But on the other hand, we citizens of France do not forget that it was upon your virgin soil that free institutions were first sown of which we in turn were able to fully harvest.

The declaration of the American Independence preceded the declaration of the Rights of Man, and Republican Government in America preceded the establishment of Free Government in France.

Mutual action at decisive moments, as we see, has blended together the histories of France and of the United States with ever beneficial effect, leaving to-day in the hearts of both nations an unparalleled feeling of esteem and constantly well-wishing affection. (Great applause.)

President Hepburn said: “Only a few years ago we wanted the world, but now we want the air above it. We have with us to-day one of the pioneers in navigation of the air, the man who first crossed the English channel in a heavier than air machine. I present to you M. Louis Blériot.” M. Blériot said:

He had been carried away on the wings of the eloquence to heights where it was imprudent for an aviator to risk himself, and he would express[67] simply, but with profound sincerity in behalf of French industry the great admiration which they, the workmen of old Europe, had for the great and daring efforts of America to conquer the air. That work brought men together, and united especially the citizens of America and France, already brothers by ancient bonds. Thanks to science and industry, distances were diminishing. They admired Edison and did not forget Fulton, as they recollected all those who had contributed by their invention or their initiative to widen the field of the activity of humanity. He looked forward to the time when the birds of France and the birds of America would settle on each others’ shores. (Applause.)

Addresses were also made in French by M. Louis Barthou, formerly a member of the French Cabinet, and others. They were enthusiastically received. At the luncheon which followed the meeting a toast was given in honor of the President of France which was responded to by M. Hanotaux, after which Baron D’Estournelles de Constant made an eloquent address. Since their return to France and the election of M. Raymond Poincaré to the Presidency of that Republic, M. Louis Barthou has been made President of the Council of Ministers. It is very gratifying to the many friends in America of M. Barthou that he has been so signally honored by the French nation.

Ferry Transporting Commissioners and French Delegation between Port Henry and Crown Point Memorial, May 3, 1912

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VI. FRENCH VISITORS AND CHAMPLAIN COMMISSIONERS ENTERTAINED AT TICONDEROGA, LATER INSPECT CHAMPLAIN MEMORIAL LIGHTHOUSE AT CROWN POINT, WHERE THEY FORMALLY PLACE THE BUST “LA FRANCE” AND THEN JOURNEY TO PLATTSBURGH. REPORT TO PARIS

The members of the New York and Vermont Lake Champlain Commissions accompanied by His Excellency, M. Jusserand, the French Ambassador, Governor Mead of Vermont and the members of the French delegation left New York on the night train, May 2d, in special cars, which were detached from the train the next morning at Fort Ticonderoga station. The French visitors were entertained at breakfast by Mr. and Mrs. Stephen H. P. Pell at “The Pavilion,” their summer home, while the members of the Joint Commissions were entertained at breakfast by Commissioner Howland Pell in the Block House, rebuilt by him in the Germain Redoubt overlooking the Lake. Several hours were spent in looking over the ruins, fortifications and restorations, the details of which were explained by Mr. and Mrs. Stephen H. P. Pell, who own Fort Ticonderoga and Mount Independence. The visitors were greatly interested in all they saw, and especially the French lines, the scene of Montcalm’s victory in 1758 and the place where the battle occurred. The ancient flag of France with the Fleur-de-lis was displayed together with the Tri-color and each was saluted with formality.

Members of the delegation and Ambassador Jusserand called on Commissioner Pell at the Block House in the Germain Redoubt, where light refreshments were served.

General Lebon and other members of the delegation were quick to see[72] the strategic importance of Ticonderoga as a military fortification to command the passage of vessels up and down the lake as well as the passage of troops through the valley. In their judgment France made no mistake in taking possession of Ticonderoga and taking her stand there and at Crown Point in her efforts to control this entire territory. The history of the struggle has been graphically described by Parkman and others and the thrilling events, culminating in and about this “Gateway of the Country,” have been given realistic settings by Ira Allen, Hon. Lucius E. Chittenden, Rev. Joseph Cook, Dr. Hamilton W. Mabie, Percy MacKaye and others. These were well known to most of the visiting savants, who were profoundly impressed with Ticonderoga and the overtowering Mount Defiance on the southwest and the commanding position of Mount Independence across the narrow lake on the southeast. All these were occupied by military forces at times during the struggle for the control of the territory.

The Commissioners and visitors left on a special train at 11.30 A. M. for Port Henry, where they were met by Commissioner Walter C. Witherbee, Hon. Frank S. Witherbee, Lieut.-Gov. Thomas F. Conway and others. While going from Ticonderoga to Port Henry, lunch was served on the train, so that upon their arrival at Port Henry, while they were being escorted to the steamer, the Witherbee band played the Marseillaise, and to the delight of the French guests, it also played the airs of several French folk songs familiar to the visitors and known to their grandparents. They proceeded directly to Crown Point Forts. This was their first experience on Lake Champlain, their first view of the memorial in the process of construction. It was far enough along, however, to reveal its stateliness and artistic design. The impression it made on M. Fernand Cormon, President of the French Academy, and on M. René Bazin, M. Étienne Lamy, M. Gabriel Hanotaux and other members of the French Academy may be drawn from the remarks of M. Hanotaux and others. Suffice it to say here that the visitors were pleased with the artistic memorial lighthouse, which, in addition to its utilitarian uses, is designed to symbolize the illumination of the light of[73] civilization first shed in the valley by Champlain and his followers. After inspecting the memorial they suggested the permanent location for the bust “La France,” which had been temporarily placed in position and was inspected by the people from all parts of the Champlain valley. The bust was draped with the flags of the United States and the Tri-color of France and from all parts of the memorial lighthouse floated pennants and the Stars and Stripes in profusion.

Ambassador Jusserand and French Delegation disembarking at Crown Point Memorial, May 3, 1912

By courtesy of the Troy Times

Commissioners and French Delegation at Crown Point Memorial, May 3, 1912

Chairman H. Wallace Knapp presided at the formal exercises and in his opening address said:

Gentlemen: The course of the Tercentenary observations has received an interruption by a voice from across the sea. It is a friendly voice. It is a voice that is heard wherever men struggle to be free or seek to advance their welfare. It is the voice of France that spoke to us in the dark days of our early history, and bade us be of good cheer.

All through the critical periods of our history the French people and their Government have been our friends. They join us to-day in memorializing our past. They have the right to do so, for France and America have suffered and triumphed together for the same high cause and the memory of our debt to this liberty-loving people can never be forgotten. It is fitting that they place the Memorial Tablet here. It expresses to us love and friendship and they may be assured that we will guard it with proud and zealous care.

I now take great pleasure in introducing to you the acting Governor, Lieutenant-Governor Conway.

Lieut.-Gov. Thomas F. Conway in the course of his address of welcome said:

Gentlemen: I had the pleasure on Wednesday evening of extending to you on the part of the State of New York the appreciation of its citizens at your coming to our shores, but it is a double pleasure to welcome you to Lake Champlain, rich in French history and the pride of every one who may rightfully claim the Champlain valley as his birthplace. We believe that you will find this one of the most charming lakes you have ever visited and we trust that you will appreciate its beauties as do its inhabitants and its many visitors.

Chairman Knapp then introduced Gov. John A. Mead of Vermont.

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Governor Mead in welcoming the visitors said:

The people of the Green Mountain State join with the people of the Empire State in welcoming the members of the distinguished delegation from France who have come to bring the seal of the Mother-Country to the memorial of one of her most distinguished sons. The Vermont Commission in order to do honor to that distinguished son, Samuel Champlain, united with the New York Commission in erecting this stately joint memorial to commemorate his memory, which is revered by the people of both states. We count it the greatest privilege that can fall to the lot of any man to be born along the shores of this beautiful lake, which Champlain considered worthy to bear his name.

Chairman Knapp then presented the French delegation, saying: Many Commissions have come from France to us, but all of France has never been so well represented as it is by our guests to-day. They bring in their hands the gift that has been contributed by all the classes of all the French people.

I have the pleasure of introducing to you the Chairman of the Delegation, M. Gabriel Hanotaux.

Address of Albert Auguste Gabriel Hanotaux

The states of Vermont and New York raise this monument, torch-bearer to the glory of the first Europeans who saw their territories and who foresaw their future prosperity. A French delegation has come to thank the constructors of this magnificent monument and to seal upon its base, as a sign of gratitude, an image of France.

This work of one of our greatest sculptors, Rodin, is of modest size, but it certainly expresses well what we have wished to say; it will bear testimony among you of the quality of French taste; it will depict to you France, such as we Frenchmen conceive it, such as we love it. See this countenance, smiling and at the same time grave, these delicate and pure features, these full cheeks indicating health, this firm look expressing resolution and sincerity. It is France as she wishes to be and as she is.

French Delegation and Commissioners at Crown Point Memorial, May 3, 1912

The France of the Crusades, the France of Joan of Arc, of Louis XIV and of Napoleon, of the Revolution, the France of the Richelieus and of the Champlains, that France cannot forget those who have worked and suffered for her, she gathers together their memory, she thanks those who remember. To the friendships[75] and smiles that are offered her, she replies by a smile and a sincere and faithful friendship.

To mention only the most recent events: In 1910, a statue of the great Washington was offered to Versailles by the State of Virginia; in December, the Surrender of Yorktown, by J. P. Laurens, was solemnly inaugurated in the Court House of Baltimore. In 1911, commemorative monuments were erected at Savannah, at Annapolis, at Mobile. Everywhere we find memorable proofs of American sympathy. How could we do otherwise than respond?

And it is for this reason, these acts and so many similar ones having been noted through the vigilance of the Ambassador of France at Washington, that the Committee of France-America, encouraged by the French Government, took the initiative of a subscription in order to bring to the lighthouse of Champlain a souvenir of French gratitude. The subscription includes, in the first rank, the President of the French Republic, Mr. Fallières; the President of the Council of Ministers, Raymond Poincaré, the Ambassador of France at Washington, Mr. Jusserand, the majority of the French ministers and a great number of our fellow-countrymen, anxious to express their gratitude and their sympathy to the American Republic.

The delegation here present bears no official character, but Mr. Jusserand accompanies it as the representative of the French Government and the Count de Chambrun appears in it as the representative of the President of the Council. The greatest French institutions also have their representatives therein; The Institut de France, the Parliament, the French army, the State Council, the University, Industry, Commerce, the Press; finally, the descendants of three of the families that have, from the very beginning, shown their sympathy for the Franco-American cause.

Friendship—it is with this word that I wish to close, as it expresses the real character of the sentiment that animates the Committee of France-America and which its delegation has endeavored to convey in coming to you. We are friends of the great American democracy; we come toward it with outstretched hands, saying: Accept this friendship that is offered you and in return grant us yours. We have nothing more to offer you than this image of that which we love best in the world, France; and we ask nothing more of you than to understand how lively, spontaneous and sincere this sentiment is.

Since the American democracy is at the head of the great human civilizations, since it always marches forward, without, however, forgetting the bonds that bind it to the past; since it has a noble heart, a generous soul, and since, according to the word of the Latin writer, nothing human is foreign to it, we come to remind it that these sentiments are also those that animate the French democracy; and, as the two ideas are to-day united in the same monument, so may the two words be[76] drawn closer together in the name of our Committee, France-America. We beg of you not to allow the memory of this ceremony to be effaced from your hearts, since the memory of Champlain is commemorated by you. We now confide to you the image of our beautiful France. Watch over it as over an eternal pledge of gratitude, of devotion, and of friendship. (Long applause.)

Commissioner Louis C. Lafontaine was then introduced and received the gift in the following manner, speaking in the French language:

Excellence, Messieurs de la Délégation Française, Mesdames, Messieurs: C’est un grand honneur pour moi, comme membre de la Commission du Troisième Centenaire de la découverte du Lac Champlain, et au nom de mes collègues, de recevoir le buste “La France” dont vous avez mission du peuple Français de venir déposer au pied du Mémorial Champlain.

La Commission se plaît à voir dans ce beau geste de la mère-patrie de Champlain le couronnement de ses efforts pour la glorification de l’un des plus illustres fils de la France.

Votre mission est maintenant remplie, mais nous vous prions de vouloir bien en accepter une autre, celle de transmettre à la nation française, les remerciements les plus sincères et les plus cordiaux de la Commission Champlain pour l’honneur qu’elle lui a fait en choisissant un si grand nombre parmi les plus illustres de ses enfants pour leur conférer l’honneur de venir apposer ce cachet d’amitié au Mémorial Porte-Lumière destiné à perpétuer le souvenir du Grand Champlain!

This concluded the formal exercises.

The visitors were then shown the ruins of Fort St. Frédéric and of the English Forts, now included in the state reservation known as the Crown Point Reservation, which are among the best preserved original fortifications of the country.

M. Hanotaux speaking at Crown Point Forts, May 3, 1912
M. Hanotaux speaking at Crown Point Memorial, May 3, 1912

The discoveries which are being made in and about the old French Fort under the direction of Annie E. (Mrs. Walter C.) Witherbee, are such as may lead to the rewriting of a description of these forts. She has located the ovens and found the oven doors, candle-sticks, snuffers, glassware, blue and white china of Fort St. Frédéric, built in 1731, the underground drain, from the English Forts, built of stone two and one-half feet high, resting on a solid rock and twenty inches in width in perfect condition. She has also found the casemate and bastions around[77] the English Forts, which were built in 1759 by Amherst. She has opened up the old forge and found many relics such as a gun-carriage, chairs, knives, spades, iron bars, bolts and other articles. The most remarkable discovery from a geological point of view was that of a glacier mill 14 feet and 7 inches in depth, containing spherical stones, unknown in the vicinity. Mrs. Witherbee has procured copies of old charts and maps from British archives relating to the region. She is also making a valuable historical collection of books, manuscripts and autographs of persons, who have written about or have been occupants of the forts now in ruins, but included in the State Reservation. These will throw new light on the history of the region to the lasting credit of Mrs. Witherbee, who intends to continue her researches in this hitherto unexplored field.

At three-forty o’clock, P. M., the Commissioners, accompanied by His Excellency Ambassador Jusserand and the French delegation, boarded the special train for Plattsburgh under the escort of Hon. John H. Booth and Hon. John B. Riley. Upon their arrival at Plattsburgh, they were officially welcomed by Mayor Andrew G. Senecal, the Guard of Honor, and St. Jean Baptiste Society in full uniform. The depot was trimmed with the American and French flags and the U. S. Reservation at Plattsburgh Barracks had been put in readiness by Colonel Cowles, Post Commandant, for the reception of the visitors to witness a dress parade in their honor. As they entered the Reservation, a national salute was fired and the regimental band played La Marseillaise and the Star Spangled Banner. The Fifth Infantry in full dress uniform was drawn up and saluted the distinguished visitors with military honors. Colonel Cowles and his staff were formally presented by Hon. H. Wallace Knapp to Ambassador Jusserand, M. Gabriel Hanotaux, General Lebon, Count de Chambrun, M. Étienne Lamy and others. The visitors were escorted to the temporary platform, whereupon the Hon. V. F. Boire, speaking in French in behalf of the people of Plattsburgh, welcomed the visitors. The English version of his address is substantially as follows:

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Gentlemen: It is a great pleasure as well as a special privilege to welcome you to the city of Plattsburgh and the county of Clinton on this important occasion of your peace errand. It is a pleasure to welcome you for many reasons. The personnel of your delegation has so many illustrious and honored names; so many of them dear to the hearts of the American people, that we welcome you individually and personally, and we feel that you should be at home here. In the average American heart, there is enshrined on either side of George Washington the memory of Rochambeau and Lafayette, so no man bearing either name is a stranger in the country of Washington, nor is he a stranger here, who is accredited from their native land.

As representatives of the great French Republic, you are welcome to the nation that the old France sustained and befriended in the hour of its almost hopeless struggle for liberty. You are twice welcome in this particular spot; discovered and explored by the great Champlain, trodden by the intrepid foot of Montcalm, and sought out by the zealous heart of Jogues. It would be impossible to honor us more than to permit us to see and hear representatives of so many branches of French activities and learning, of men and institutions that have made for the progress and enlightenment of the world; and in this particular locality, where there are so many descendants of the French, this occasion affords an entirely distinct and peculiar pleasure to the people.

Significant at this time and indirectly connected with your visit, and of interest in connection with your visit, are the great peace projects now planned between the United States and the British Empire. One is the Quebec-Miami International Highway which is an assured fact, as a result of which a great International Highway is actually being built, connecting the southern part of Florida with the city of Quebec, and linking Canada and the United States with a strong bond of friendship and good will. This road will pass through the city of Plattsburgh and its length will be dotted with monuments dedicated to peace. And it is intended that all travellers of this highway between Canada and the United States will pass beneath an arch dedicated in the hope that no hostile foot will ever tread beneath. This we believe to be a practical peace pact.

The monuments and arch just referred to are part of the second and most widely known of the peace projects. By that I mean, the celebration of the one hundredth anniversary of peace between the English speaking peoples (which also seems to be an assured fact), to occur in 1914. By a singular coincidence, the year 1914 will also mark the one hundredth anniversary of the last war between French speaking and English speaking peoples. It would seem to me a most lamentable thing if this celebration were not made a double celebration in commemoration of the one hundred years of peace between the great French speaking[79] peoples and English speaking peoples as well as between the English speaking peoples. And let us hope that the year 1914 will also witness the adoption of all the Arbitration Treaties under French speaking nations and English speaking nations;—and thus we may hope that the year 1914 will not only be as a monument to the century of peace in the past, but that it will also be a monument for the peace of the centuries that are to come.

The visitors demonstrated their pleasure over his remarks by vigorous applause. M. Étienne Lamy was then introduced and, speaking in French, told of the pleasure of himself and his associates at the hearty reception they had received at every place they had visited since coming to America and said that at no place was the reception more cordial than at Plattsburgh. General Lebon was the next speaker and his remarks were also in French. He spoke of the great achievements of the French people in all walks of life and especially in the military sphere. Count de Chambrun spoke in English and told of the great friendship which has existed between France and the United States ever since the first blow was struck by the colonies for liberty; how the Republic of the East, through him and his associates, sent greetings and promises of everlasting friendship to the Republic of the West. M. Gabriel Hanotaux spoke briefly in French and Ambassador Jusserand made a few remarks in both English and French, expressing his pleasure in again visiting Plattsburgh. The Saranac Chapter of the D. A. R. turned out in force with their regent. Mrs. George F. Tuttle, and were accompanied by the Nathan Beman Chapter of the Children of the American Revolution bearing the American colors. The D. A. R. delegation was seated on the grandstand at the left of the French visitors.

Mrs. George F. Tuttle, the regent of the Saranac Chapter, D. A. R., and president of the Nathan Beman Chapter, D. A. R., of Plattsburgh, both of which organizations took part in the reception of the French Delegation, expressed her pleasure and that of her Chapter at taking part in welcoming the visitors, and also said:

The Saranac Chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution and Nathan Beman Society, Children of the American Revolution wish to extend greetings to[80] the French delegation who have so honored us by their presence. It may be of interest to one of this distinguished company, the Count de Chambrun, to know that among the Daughters who listened with delight to his remarks, was one whose mother, Mrs. Frederick Sailly, had the pleasure of entertaining, as the wife of Major Russell, at Fort Niagara, the Count’s honored ancestor, General Lafayette.

After regimental dress parade the visitors were returned to the depot by automobile and left for Montreal on the regular 6 o’clock train, expressing themselves enthusiastically in appreciation of the festivities arranged in their honor in this country.

One of the French delegation, M. Gaston Deschamps, on May 3, 1912, reported to Le Temps, published in Paris, the exercises at Crown Point and Plattsburgh, which is a graphic description of the impressions made upon the visitors on that occasion. From that report we excerpt the following, giving the English instead of the French original:

People have come from all the cities and towns about Port Henry; from all the villages and hamlets near the Canadian frontier, to greet the French delegation. A band of musicians advances and plays the “Marseillaise”—a Marseillaise slow, sweet, as though languishing from the affectionate and cajoling tenderness of our friends in the United States and New France. Our Marseillaise lends itself admirably to that metamorphosis, and the warlike march of the Army of the Rhine easily becomes, when one beats adagio maestoso time, a hymn of solemn measure and touchingly religious.

Hon. Walter C. Witherbee, one of the most distinguished citizens of Port Henry, is the President of the Inauguration Committee of the Champlain Monument at Crown Point. For several years he has devoted the best part of his time and his efforts to the work of the American and French commemorations of which we to-day see the happy outcome. He has applied himself with all his heart to this intellectual and moral enterprise, and he has brought to the service of his tenacious idealism all the practical judgment of an excellent business man. I have learned—not from him, for Mr. Witherbee is modesty itself—all that he has done for the celebration of the third centenary of Champlain. Treasurer of the New York Commission, he is the one especially who, with Senator Henry W. Hill and Mr. John R. Myers, put through the necessary measures before the Government at Washington, to the end that the commemorative festivities might be exceptionally brilliant.

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Mr. Clinton Scollard has sung the glory of Champlain:

A valiant son of that intrepid line
Which gave fair lustre to the fame of France.

Another poet, Mr. Percy MacKaye, has celebrated in his “Ballad of Ticonderoga” the heroic defenders of Fort Carillon. Dr. Daniel L. Cady has dedicated a whole bouquet of lyric verses to the picturesque beauties of Lake Champlain and to the bravery of the good sailor of Saintonge:

The Brouage sailor * * *
* * * Long live the Xaintongeois * * *

It seems to me that at certain times “Young America” is in truth “Old France.” This impression is strengthened still more after we have embarked on the steamer which is to take us to the opposite shore of the lake, to the promontory where the monument to the heroes of this magnificent fête is erected. This monument is not yet finished. But the figure of the “Lord of Champlain, geographer to the King, and captain of the Navy of the West,” is present in all minds because on the pedestal of granite, under the gleam of the lighthouse, it is visible from top to toe in the eyes of all sailors in quest of a good route in these parts. Here he is, with his good face, a trifle broad, and very strong, his moustache curled up at the ends, and his small pointed beard in the fashion of Louis XIII.; his lips, prompt to reply, but skillful in keeping a secret; his large, thoughtful forehead, his eyes full of dreaminess, and at the same time skilled in the exact knowledge of men and things by the habit of his profession of watching the caprices of the inconstant sea, of the changing heavens, and of the varying breezes. His lake, that “Sea of the Iroquois,” whose Odysseyan distances he skimmed in birch-bark canoes paddled by tattooed Hurons, with whom he felt at home—being, in the words of a narrator of his voyages, “a man who was astonished at nothing, and a ready talker, knowing how to accost these people tactfully and to accommodate himself to their ways”—his lake we overlook to-day from the bulwarks of a steamer decorated with all the splendor of holidays. His work is finished. What he foresaw, what he predicted, what he prepared, has been realized. Civilization has laid hold upon all these countries where he was the first explorer and of which he foretold in his writings the future harvest. Here is the landscape whose picture he has described so vividly that one can, after having read his “Voyages and Discoveries”, easily find one’s way and recognize the different points; the immensity of this lake, whose[82] fertile shores stretch in endless perspective; the hillsides covered with forests; the islands “where there are plenty of walnuts and vines and pretty meadows.” * * * In place of the encampments stockaded by the Iroquois or by the Mohegans, filled with the noise of the tom-tom and the war dance, there are now pleasant country houses where men and women of a less turbulent race can henceforth enjoy a happiness which is no longer menaced by the unreasoned impulses of a primitive and barbarous humanity.

As our steamer pulls out from the port and traverses the waves, gilded by the sun, in the track which the achievements of Champlain have traced, we see the buildings of Port Henry rise one above the other like an amphitheatre among the forests in the woodland clearing. On the battlefield where the conqueror, peaceful and brave, was forced to use his blunderbuss, there are now shipbuilders’ yards, warehouses, factory chimneys. * * * The horizon, under the vast dome of the blue sky, is beautified by the whiteness of the snows, which shine with a silvery splendor on the tops of the Adirondack Mountains and of those Green Mountains which have given their ancient French name to the American State Vert Mont (Vermont).

The weather is marvellous. This is the most beautiful day of our trip; a day of brightness and of glory; what the Americans call a “glorious day.” A fine breeze which comes from afar makes the gay colors of the oriflamme flutter from the halyards of the ship. The French delegation is gay. We are happy to see this admirable scenery, which was discovered by the eyes of a Frenchman. One of our number is especially captivated by the beauty of this spectacle; it is the great painter Cormon, appointed more than any one else, as one who could understand and feel the charm of this vision, because his art is exercised and triumphs by turns in the magnificent understanding of primitive times and in the fine meaning of the beauties imagined by the modern æsthetic. We are happy to see that his ready and true pencil has caught in passing some of the scenes from the fairyland before us. Our notes on the trip will thus be much more accurate because of a true, exact and sincere illustration, which would have been the delight of honest Champlain.

In honor of the heroes of this festival, and to please us, Mr. Witherbee’s musicians play the airs which were most pleasing to the good mariners who came with Champlain from Saintonge or from Aunis—the old songs of Old France. “C’est le roi Dagobert,” “J’ai du bon tabac dans ma tabatière,” “La bonne aventure, ô gué.” * * *

Apropos of this, a Canadian whom I met at this delightful festival of French remembrance told me that these songs, brought by Champlain’s sailors, preserved by Montcalm’s sailors, still exist among “our people” all through the country.

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“Among us are still played on the hurdy-gurdy those refrains of long ago. We transmit them in the family, from father to son, like a charming echo of the far away mother country. If you come to our French villages in Canada, Monsieur, to Beauharnais, to Saint Hilaire, to Maisonneuve, to Sorel, to Trois-Rivières, you will hear all sorts of pleasant couplets which come in a direct line from Angoumois, from Normandy, from Saintonge, from Poitou—and I, too, come from Poitou.

“So, then. Monsieur,” adds my Canadian questioner, laughingly, “We will sing you some Poitevine songs, which will recall your childhood days and the quaint melodies of the country-folk over there. We have a good collection of them. You will only have the embarrassment of choice.”

And that good Frenchman of Canada begins to name over for me a whole string of ancient sayings, which have retained the perfume and, as it were, the melancholy softness of the gardens of the past. First of all a “danse ronde”:

Dans ma main droite y-a-t-un rosier
Qui fleurira, manon lon la,
Qui fleurira au mois de mai.
Entrez en danse, joli rosier!
Et embrassez, manon lon la,
Et embrassez qui vous plaira.

Indeed, I have heard that ingenious melody at home. To hear again, so far from home, the words and the spirit of our old rural France, hard-working all the week and always ready to dance and to “baller” during the Sunday leisure, is an impression not to be forgotten and which at first seems like a dream.

“We also have,” my Canadian said to me, “the ‘Clear Fountain.’ Everybody in Canada knows that romance, which came from Normandy. We also have some ‘chansons de filasse’ (flax songs) sung in tremulous voice by our good grandmothers: ‘En filant ma quenouille.’ Our Bretons have preserved their sea songs: ‘A Saint-Malo, beau port de mer.’ Or ‘Dans les prisons de Nantes.’ And also:

Fringue, fringue sur la rivière
Fringue, fringue sur l’aviron.”

While thus, in that fine light, on the limpid water, under the tender blue of a crystal sky, the heroic and charming soul of our ancestors was evoked, our ship, surrounded by a whole fleet of decorated barks, draws near the pier at Crown Point and stops in front of the monument of Champlain. This monument is a lighthouse, of gray granite, sparkling with grains of mica which shine in the sun[84] like the facets of precious stones. The location of that edifice is well adapted to the calling and the glory of him who was in these parts the guide of navigators. In front of that lighthouse, on the prow of a symbolic vessel, there stands upright the figure of the good pilot whose wake we have followed. * * * While awaiting the completion of the statue, which has been begun, we have fastened to the pedestal the image of France, modelled with infinitely delicate love by the strong hand of the sculptor Rodin. That will be a token and, as it were, the sign of the mother country on the monument which commemorates and consecrates a French achievement.

At the moment when that image, veiled by the flags of France and of the United States, is uncovered, appears to the gaze of the assembled crowd, the Marseillaise vibrates in the resonant light. Our American friends and the Canadians present applaud and cheer. We are deeply moved, we Frenchmen, before this figure, where we recognize clearly the force and the sweetness of the mother country, the uprightness of her thoughts, the loftiness of her sentiments, the nobility of her generous desires. Never has an artist’s idea better expressed by the sovereign gift of art all that there is of depth, of rarity, of the unique, in hearts animated by the imperative desire to maintain the dominion of France; to enhance her glory. The head of the French delegation, M. Gabriel Hanotaux, of the French Academy, former Minister of Foreign Affairs, accompanied by the French Ambassador and the Governors of the States of New York and of Vermont, delivers that precious pledge of remembrance and of hope to the friendship of the American people. His eloquent words are most appropriate to the occasion which reunites us, to the decorations which astonish us, to the character of the great man whose admirable work gives us, at the end of three centuries, the joy of seeing in this place the infinite results of a French undertaking. The orator, in reviewing the life and work of Champlain, points out how similar to Corneille was the soul of that contemporary of Richelieu, and how this discoverer of new ways, this builder of towns, this initiator of civilization into the New World, this idealist, prompt in the realization of his ideas, has succeeded by the power of a thoughtful desire, preparing his projects far in advance by prudent thought, wisely conceived, rapidly executed—having, in a word, as a historian has said in the temperate and forceful language of long ago, “the intentions of all he did.”

After M. Hanotaux, the Governors of New York and Vermont spoke. Their excellent discourses, warmly applauded, reminded me again how well the history of Champlain is known in America. In him they honor by turns the incarnation of the genius of France; the honor and chivalry of France. To that explorer, to that colonizer, they give that beautiful name of “honest man” which our ancestors[85] of the seventeenth century claimed more passionately than any other title: navigator, explorer, honest man. * * *

After that moving ceremony we were taken in automobiles to the ruins of Fort Frédéric, which was constructed in 1731 by the Marquis de Beauharnois. The whole population of Port Henry comes with us; they surround us, showing us every courtesy.

In a group of children I see a pretty little boy with blue eyes.

“Doest thou know French”?

“Yes, sir.”

“What is thy name”?

“Henri Pigeon.”

With a name so extremely French one does not need a certificate of origin. A French priest, Father Guttin, professor in the College of Saint-Michel at Burlington, on the other shore of Lake Champlain, told me that Henri Pigeon is one of many children of a very honorable and hard-working Canadian family. The father of that child works in the mines at Port Henry.

Plattsburgh, Same Day, May 3, 1912, 5:30 o’clock.

The train, since leaving Port Henry, has traversed the left bank of Lake Champlain. As we pass I notice shores of golden sand, hills thickly shaded by foliage, pines, whose brilliant verdure glows on the azure of the blue water. Here is the island of Valcour. * * * What a pity not to be able to stop at all the stations on that railroad, with its many villages with French names.

Plattsburgh is nearly the last American town before reaching the Canadian frontier. It is full of remembrances of the War of Independence. The Federal Government of the United States has established a strong garrison there. Here again swift automobiles await us. The owner of one of these brilliant vehicles literally carries me to the threshold of the station, at a lively pace, and on the way said to me, in a calm, jolly voice:

“I am French, Monsieur; this is my son Raymond. We have only half an hour to see our countrymen. And, well, we want to make the best of it.”

All this was said with a pleasing country accent. It is the accent we use in our country. * * * The auto stops at the entrance to a training field, where the Fifth Regiment of Infantry of the Regular Army of the United States is ranged in order of battle. The American Government wishes, at that last station in her territory, to do us great honor, due, no doubt, to the presence as a member of our delegation of General Lebon, former Commander-in-Chief of our First Army Corps.

The General takes his place on a platform in front of the public stand. The[86] regiment band plays the Marseillaise, which is followed by the solemn notes of the American hymn, the Star Spangled Banner. The Mayor of Plattsburgh addresses us in French, bidding us welcome. The procession starts immediately. A very excellent showing of troops, by a young colonel (Calvin D. Cowles), who manages a fiery horse most excellently, and who is surrounded by a body-guard of officers dressed in uniforms heavily adorned with gold braid and shoulder pieces of blue silk. A faultless procession; the sections well in line, the pace lively, the carriage very military. When the starry flag passed, everybody stood up and removed their hats. This scene is framed in a background of mountains and the blue line of the lake, now lighted by the slanting rays of the setting sun. After the military carriages had passed the colonel, accompanied by his staff, came and stood before the stand, and with a sweeping gesture saluted us with his sword. The American nation could not bid a more magnificent farewell to a delegation in which figure the descendants of Rochambeau and Lafayette, and who belong to a nation faithful to the traditions of a memorable fraternity in arms.

Saint Jean, Same Day, May 3, 1912, 7 o’clock.

We have crossed the frontier. The evening falls over the Canadian fields. From a clock exactly like those in the French parishes there comes the aerial call of the Angelus. * * * Instantly, in the station of Saint Jean there is heard a great clamor. “Vive la France!” Imagine an immense crowd, packed around the train, preventing it from starting; waving three-colored banners; singing at the top of their lungs the songs of this land and of the home land; the songs which, among us, are sung to welcome parents and friends. Hands are extended; eyes seek other eyes. One might call it the reunion of a family a long time separated. We are happy to meet again. We detain each other. * * * There are so many things to say to each other. * * * Everyone who has been present at this Canadian welcome will treasure in the depths of his heart the remembrance of that moment never to be forgotten.

This journey has been fertile in rapid and diverse impressions, carried away, alas! too quickly by the flight of time. It was at times like artificial fire; too quickly vanished. * * * But this here—and I purposely make use of a familiar phrase, which will be well understood by the French on both shores of the Atlantic—this, is in truth the bouquet! ( Ceci, c’est véritablement le bouquet).

Gaston Deschamps.


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VII. THEY VISIT CANADA, NIAGARA FALLS AND SAIL FOR FRANCE. IMPRESSIONS AND COMMENTS BY FRENCH VISITORS ON EXPERIENCES IN AMERICA

Their reception by the Board of Trade and Chamber of Commerce and Citizens Association in Montreal was very hospitable. A banquet was tendered the visiting delegation in the evening of May 4th and on the following day a luncheon was given them by the Franco-American Committee of Canada. Their reception at Quebec on May 6th was also very cordial. They were greatly interested in the city founded three centuries back by Samuel Champlain. They visited its churches, its Parliament buildings, the Heights of Abraham, and placed a wreath of flowers on the tomb of Montcalm. They were pleased with the majestic sweep of the St. Lawrence, the Falls of Montmorency and with the bracing air of Quebec, whose surrounding hills were white with snow. Among the many who united in entertaining them while in Canada were Senator Raoul Dandurand, President of the Franco-American Committee of Canada, Sir Lomer Gouin, Premier of the Province, M. Monk, Minister of Public Works, Lieutenant-Governor Langelier, M. Montagu Allan, Vice-President of the Franco-American Committee of Montreal, Mgr. Bégin of Laval University, Messrs. R. W. Reford and Chaput, Presidents of the Canadian Chambers of Commerce, M. Revol, President of the Montreal Chamber of Commerce, M. Montpetit and M. de Crèvecœur, M. Ferdinand Roy, President of the Canadian Institute at Quebec, and many others. The mental exhilaration of the visitors increased as they moved about amid the French speaking people of the Province, where the descendants of French colonists with French customs dominated its language, its laws and its institutions. On their return to France they spoke very appreciatively[90] of their visit to the Dominion of Canada, its hospitable people and of its possibilities.

On their return from Canada via Niagara Falls, they were met there by Senator Henry W. Hill, Secretary of the Commission, and were entertained at luncheon by General Francis V. Greene, who in faultless Parisian French paid a glowing tribute to their countrymen. He escorted them about the Falls and showed them the power plants on the Canadian shore and took them in a special car around the Gorge Route. They were deeply interested in the Falls, the Whirlpool and power houses. They took the evening train for New York, where they embarked on La Provence, May 9th, for France.

Commissioners Howland Pell and Senator James A. Foley and Viscount de Jean of the French Embassy at Washington, Senator Raoul Dandurand of Montreal and others were on the dock to bid them “farewell” and “bon voyage.” Each gentleman of the delegation was presented with a photograph of the Waldorf-Astoria banquet and each lady with a bouquet of La France roses.

All the delegates were charmed with the cordiality of their reception, both in the United States and Canada, and most of them expressed their intention of coming again.

M. Gabriel Hanotaux, former Minister of Foreign Affairs and president of the delegation, in a conversation before La Provence left the quay, said:

I believe that the time has come for closer relations to be developed between France and America from many points of view. There is one point beyond doubt. We have seen recently that when France withdraws her financial support from any international project the carrying out of the project is at any rate delayed. France is a rich country, and has money to invest, but she must first see that her interests are safeguarded. In America the thing that struck me and most of the delegation was the prodigious activity everywhere. Everything in the country gives evidence of unique strength which must play a great rôle in the world. I am really charmed with my first visit to the United States and Canada and hope to have an opportunity of coming again. We in France are convinced that trade can be improved to a great extent. The present statistics do not, however, give France her proper[91] place, as a great deal of the French trade passes across the Atlantic on British, Belgian and German vessels and is credited to the first port of debarkation, although many of the American exports eventually go to France.

M. Gabriel Hanotaux, in referring to French literature, said:

The greatest error appears to exist in American and British minds on the subject of French literature. I myself know that the French love a pure literature and I am certain that that kind of writing is the only kind that is profitable in France itself. All the modern French writers, too, are of the same opinion. The indelicate French books appear to be written only for the foreigner, for they have no vogue whatever in France.

On a prior occasion M. Gabriel Hanotaux expressed the pleasure of the delegation at the reception given it in this country, saying that from the moment they had placed foot upon this soil they have been captivated and carried away in a whirlwind of cordiality and good-fellowship. About the reception by President Taft the French statesman said:

The President, despite his overwhelming occupations, received us at his table; in the very kindest manner he honored, in our persons, the thought which has brought us here. He was so kind as to give us personally, in connection with our visit, assurances of his encouragement and approval; which have been for us an ample reward. These countless acts of friendship of all kinds we have looked upon—and rightly so—as being addressed to our beloved mother country and to the Government of the French Republic which has so splendidly encouraged and aided us in the accomplishment of our mission.

On its return from America, the French delegation which had attended the Champlain exercises, was entertained in Paris at a grand dinner, on June 17, 1912. It was a truly brilliant assemblage, presided over by M. Raymond Poincaré, President of the Council, and Minister of Foreign Affairs. Prominent among the large number at the tables were the sculptor, Rodin; Paul Hervieu, of the French Academy; Louis Barthou, deputy and former Minister; General Brugère, former vice-president of the Conseil Supérieur of War, and president of the United States section of the Franco-American Committee; and many[92] others eminent in the official, military, naval, financial, literary and art circles of France. The aviator, Blériot, was a guest, representative of a putative new science. Many ladies also graced the occasion.

Among the Americans in attendance was the American Ambassador, the Hon. Myron Herrick, to whom the presiding officer, M. Poincaré, in his opening remarks, most happily referred as having come “to testify that his country, less near to us by parentage than is Canada, is still just as near at heart.” American hospitality, he said, which surprises and charms the French, whenever they cross the ocean, is but an expression of a constant memory. “As Monsignor Ireland so well says: ‘The United States forget nothing. In learning the history of his own country, an American learns to love France. The Past has not ceased to be felt in the Present. American sentiment is unable to detach itself from France. Emigrants, it is true, arrive in vast numbers on our soil; but there is a something, I know not what, in the air we breathe, that assimilates them in less than a generation. And the new-comers become like the earlier ones.’”

M. Gabriel Hanotaux, of the French Academy, President of the Franco-American Committee, reviewed the experiences of the French delegation in their journey to Lake Champlain, and in his very felicitous remarks, “addressed, across the seas, a salutation of thanks and of gratitude, on the part of France to the United States of America and to the Dominion of Canada, in response to the welcome extended by these two countries, last month, to the French delegation visiting Lake Champlain.” He drew a lively picture of incidents of the journey, especially of the arrival at Ticonderoga:

“It is impossible to express the emotion which we felt when we saw that there was the goal of our journey; that our feet would tread in the footsteps of our great compatriots of by-gone ages; that this little bay was where Champlain embarked, in the Indian canoes, to go to discover, southwards, the land where sprang up Boston and New York; that here were those famous passes, defended, later on, foot by foot by the French heroes of the 17th and 18th centuries; that these ruins are of Fort Carillon;[93] that these fields, these hills and woods, were the battle ground where Montcalm had fought and conquered; and that here, in a word, was the lake toward which we had fared all these weeks, and where we came to enshrine, at the foot of the commemorative monument, the image which we had brought, with precious care—from the land of France, on the ship La France, the image of France!”

The speaker paid graceful tribute to the genius of Rodin; dwelt upon the welcome which the delegation had met with in Canada; thanked all who had contributed to the pleasure and success of the mission, and concluded by proposing the health of the President of the United States, His Majesty George the Fifth, the people of all Latin America, of the delegation’s hosts in the United States and Canada, and of the Franco-American Committee.

He was followed by Senator Dandurand, President of the Franco-American Committee of Montreal, who spoke of Canadian development, and of the relations of Canada and the United States. At the close of his address he was invested with the insignia of the Legion of Honor.

Then followed the address of the Deputy, Louis Barthou, which sparkled with wit and happy hits. The speaker paid particular tribute to M. Hanotaux; dwelt upon the enthusiasm with which their delegation had been met, and made repeated acknowledgment of the courtesies they had received. His Excellency, M. Puga-Borne, Minister from Chili, spoke briefly, and was followed by the American Ambassador, Mr. Herrick, who happily acknowledged the compliments and courtesies bestowed upon him and his country, and closed by proposing the health of the President of the French Republic. The exercises were concluded by a brief address from the presiding officer, M. Raymond Poincaré, who referred to the part which the Franco-American Committee had borne in the carrying out of the Champlain commemorative project.

On May 25, 1912, the newly-appointed Ambassador from the United States to France, Mr. Myron T. Herrick, and Mrs. Herrick, gave a reception at the American Embassy to the French delegation which[94] represented France in the Champlain ceremonies. Some seventy guests were present, and were welcomed by the Ambassador in a felicitous speech, to which M. Hanotaux replied most happily in behalf of the delegation. M. Antonin Dubost also spoke on the unbroken amity so long existing between France and the United States.

The Courrier des États-Unis of November 10, 1912, published an address delivered at the annual meeting of the Five Academies by M. Paul Vidal de la Blache, delegate of the Academy of Moral and Political Science. On the occasion referred to, M. Frédéric Masson, of the French Academy, presided. M. de la Blache said in opening his address:

Gentlemen: In the course of a journey which a French delegation made last spring, to pay homage to the memory of Samuel Champlain, there was one day interesting above all others. I am sure none of our company will lose the memory of it. Many have eloquently expressed the impression which they cherish. Impressions of travel are usually fleeting; they become dim by their very multiplicity, and the daily train of events soon relegates them to the limbo of the forgotten. However, the memory of this day has not ceased after several months to spring freshly to mind. Such is the quality of countries which are stamped by the seal of history. To know the regions upon which the eyes of Champlain rested, to press under foot the fragments of palisades upon which was spilled the blood of the soldiers of Montcalm, is assuredly a moving experience.”

The speaker found that a visit to places thus endowed with associations, was like reviewing history condensed. He sketched the course of history in the Champlain valley, recalled the scenes of strife between Iroquois and Huron, English and French, English and “Americans of the Union.” “These memories,” he said, “crowded upon our thought and took form as we visited the scene which served to frame them.” The speaker lightly reviewed the varied scene as presented to the French visitors passing northward from New York to Ticonderoga. When he[95] found himself on the battlefield of July 8, 1758, he exclaimed: “How fiction pales before history!” The memories of Montcalm and his army are so vivid that he sees again the memorable conflict of the old days. “This corner of historic earth,” he said, “by turn the property of the State of New York and of Columbia University, in 1818 passed into the hands of an old New York family. The descendants of Mr. William F. Pell honor themselves in preserving the souvenirs of the past, which they have in keeping.” He described the work of restoration which has been done at Ticonderoga, and dwelt with pleasure on the reception accorded the visitors at the old house with its souvenirs, its old furniture, pictures and relics, and with its distinctive portico, or veranda, which M. de la Blache found an interesting feature of Anglo-American Colonial architecture, from New England to Virginia.

Crossing to Crown Point, he reviewed in like strain the scenes and the associations of the place. At Crown Point, the speaker was overwhelmed by the memory that here, in 1609, came Champlain with his Algonquin allies. In a few picturesque sentences, he sketched the first conflict in this region, of white man against Iroquois, not forgetting to emphasize the higher mission which Champlain sought to accomplish.

Of the exercises which were held at this point, where M. Hanotaux delivered a notable address, M. de la Blache spoke at length. It was, he said, a ceremony very beautiful in its simplicity. “Around us familiarly crowded the people of the neighborhood, worthy farmers with something of a Puritan aspect, an attentive throng in which mingled many French Canadians; for we had come near to the actual boundary line of the languages.” “While the orator recalled the expressions by which Champlain described the country which revealed itself to us, our attention sought and found the distinctive features in the setting of this scene. Opposite, on the western shore, reared the massive granite of the Adirondacks, wooded, and partly covered with snow, the silhouette of which recalled, in grander proportion, that of the mountains of Morvan, seen from the south. On the other side, the more distant outline of the Green mountains, bathed in the luminous calm of a spring-time day.”

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In similar vein, the speaker described his progress down the lake to Plattsburgh, where he recalled the associations of 1814. Thence on to the first Canadian town of St. John: “The fading day permitted us only to dimly see in the shadows of evening the Grand Isle, Isle La Motte, Isle aux Noix, which Champlain describes as ‘These beautiful islands filled with the finest woods and prairies,’” etc. The speaker passed on in his address to recall his visit to Montreal and Quebec, with tributes to the heroes of France who have made this region famous. “There remains to-day in our minds,” he says, “a sentiment of high regard for those who inspired in 1909 the commemoration of the tercentenary of Champlain’s discovery. Resulting from the initiative of the states of New York and Vermont, and endorsed by Federal authority and later honored by the participation of France, this celebration has taken a more general character than the mere glorification of a great man. It signifies the adoption by America of all the heroes who have contributed to our greatness. This homage was not confined to Champlain; it is shared with Montcalm, it is addressed to La Salle, to Marquette, whose statue appears in the Capitol at Washington; to Maisonneuve, the founder of Montreal, to whom is reared a statue upon one of the city places; to La Clède, whose statue is reared in one of the parks of St. Louis; to Joliet, to d’Iberville, to Hennepin and Duluth, and to many others who, on Lake Champlain, on the Ohio, on the Great Lakes, or on the Mississippi, were the pioneers of a dominion, which should come to be realized some day, but far after them and otherwise than they would have conceived. Doubtless America honors herself in honoring and adopting our glories. With this act of courtesy mingles a strong sentiment of pride. It costs us nothing, however, to associate ourselves with an homage which concerns us, and from which we can draw a sense of consolation.

“The names which I have recalled are more popular in America than in their own country. We show ourselves forgetful of their fame, as if to make their memories bear the blame of our failings. A somewhat pusillanimous feeling makes us neglect this part of our historic inheritance,[97] as one turns aside from painful memories, the bitterness of which he fears. These regrets assuredly are justified. ‘Sic vos non vobis’: such is the phrase which springs to the lips. I do not believe, however, that such should be the last word, nor the final sentiment at which we ought to stop. In an address delivered three years ago, July 4, 1909, on the occasion of the Champlain Tercentenary fêtes, Cardinal Gibbons said: ‘We are much indebted to France for the great men whom she has sent to our country.’ Must one see in these words only a passing compliment? Rather do I perceive therein the emphasis of history. These Frenchmen, above all others, had prophetic vision of the extent and dimensions which this continent could afford to political domination. They perceived with larger vision than the tenacious colonists who applied their Puritan virtue and their practical sense to inlaying their settlements, one by one, between the sea and the Appalachians. These were the founders; but we may ask whether, without the perspectives opened by our countrymen, without their example and the emulation which it stimulated, this powerful unity, of which our epoch has seen the accomplishment from the Atlantic to the Pacific, from the Great Lakes to the Gulf of Mexico, would be realized. There is a something in the views, the plans, of this generalizing spirit, characteristic of our compatriots. Thinking of France, they have outlived the grandeur of the United States. Since by commemorations and by monuments, America honors herself by reminding us that in her eyes, as happy inheritor, a part of her present grandeur is the work of Frenchmen of other days, it becomes us to take her at her word. In the work of civilization, as it evolves, each bit of metal which the old nations throw into the crucible adds a quality and communicates its own resonance to the ingot which comes out. Doubtless it is to recover this past, which arouses hope within us—something besides the memory of deceit, the sense of having lost what the heroic contemporaries of Richelieu and Colbert caught sight of, for their country. Our American work is not to be summed up as a failure. It is the Americans themselves who recognize this and who say it.”


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VIII. IMPRESSIONS OF M. RENÉ BAZIN

In the Revue des Deux Mondes for September, 1912, is published a pleasant article by M. René Bazin, of the French Academy, entitled “Paysages d’Amérique,” in which he gives a graphic and poetic account of his American visit as a member of the French delegation, which presented the statue of France for the Champlain memorial. He tells of the voyage, paints vividly his first impressions of New York, chats of his visit to Washington, with many fresh impressions of scenes and people. His article, which is in journal form, brings him to Lake Champlain, May 3, 1912. After noting various incidents of the journey north, he continues:

Since last evening we have traveled by special train to the banks of Lake Champlain. Early this morning, the sensation of being still awoke me. I opened the window of the Pullman and saw that we were stopped on a siding, in the open country. Day was breaking; the sun had not yet risen. Before me, at the right of the railroad, were low lands, grassy, wild, like neglected pastures. Further on, a great house under the elms, and further yet the waters of the lake, the gleam of which came to me in rays between the white mists which rolled up. The silence was perfect. It was the season, already past with us, when the blackbirds at day-break poise themselves on the top of the trees.

Nothing was lacking. The outlines of the hills beyond the lake and above the mists, were of a vivid blue, and, suddenly, the globe of the sun showed itself. Presently a great heron, seeking the woods, came on wing, his legs like a rudder, and crossed over the bank. I hear the sound of the beats of his short wings; I hear the coming of a train on the distant horizon, and the noise is so sharp that it makes me realize the immensity of the land through which it spreads. Primitive peace is still here. I go out; I notice at the left of the line the successive level of wooded hills, the highest of which have the appearance of mountains. These are the Adirondacks. They call them “Green Mountains” in the country. But they look out upon the morning and the myriads of buds massed together clothe them in purple. Oaks, perhaps; probably maples; this beautiful maple which has two red seasons.

About eight o’clock automobiles come for us. I get into the first, with Hanotaux and two others of our companions. We have not a long road to go. On one side,[102] clear woodland; a short approach, a turning to the left, a fine descending curve planted with green trees, and we are before the steps of a great villa on the shores of the lake. Our hosts for the morning, Mr. and Mrs. S. H. P. Pell, came to us on the veranda. The automobiles stop and at once a little boom of cannon is heard ahead of us. We look in the direction whence the shot comes and we see the grass of the field all starred with tricolor flags. A second automobile arrives. It is saluted as were ourselves. In the fine house,—very well lighted, very white, ornamented with family portraits and with old engravings representing scenes of other days in this place so enriched in history, we are greeted with a graciousness and a knowledge of the world which is manifested through a considerate and sincere heart. There are some moments in which plain people and simple actions become arguments in favor of a country. I shall never again hear the American spirit ill-spoken of without recalling the hospitality of the Americans of Ticonderoga. The name is an Indian name of the fortress which was entrusted by Louis XV. to the Marquis de Montcalm. The French have said, say, and will say, “Carillon.” At Carillon, July 8, 1758, the Marquis de Montcalm had only 3,570 regulars, 87 marines, 85 Canadians, and 16 Indians, under his command,—that is to say, 3,758 soldiers. But he was entrenched in the woods and he had a refuge in case of need. Abercromby commanded an army of 16,500 men and he came on to conquer this feeble enemy and to establish finally English dominion over Canada. The hour was not yet come. Once more, although the enemy was brave and determined, France with unequal arms was victorious.

Entering Mr. Pell’s house, we were reminded of this date, these figures, and of their fine significance. We remembered that in this forest where we are, Montcalm in early morning, throwing off his jacket and crouching under the branches of a tree, said to his men who labored to gather the stones for the intrenchments, “Children, the day will be hot!” We recall that at evening in the same place, as the fading light of day was prolonged by the reflection of the lake, he wrote: “What a day for France! The little army of the King conquers his enemies. Ah, what troops like ours! I have never seen their equal!”

In how many parts of the world, among others, cannot memory speak to us thus softly of the glory of our arms! But what is delicious here is that a foreign family which entertains us, also remembers, and that it understands, and that it recognizes something beyond the mere history.

While they served us with a well-ordered breakfast—there were even fruits from California and Florida in aromatic wine—our hosts and the parents of our hosts spoke to us of that France that they know and love, of Cartier, of Roberval, of Champlain, “father of the aborigines,” of the missionaries, of Frontenac, of[103] Vaudreuil and of Montcalm. These names lived again and those of their adversaries.

We learned that Mr. Pell has sought to buy all the lands around Ticonderoga where the French and English fought, so that no one shall build a hotel there and lessen the sacred character of this landscape. Is it not a fine stroke, and does he belong by chance to this “material civilization,” of which they have made in respect to Americans so much reproach, so much hard compliment? We go out of the house; we cross the field, and, the ground falling away a little, we are in front of a square fortress of stone, protected by ditches. The proprietors have restored it, but the great part of these old stones are truly stones of war, and the black rafters of the chambers have become brown by the smoke of pipes which were lighted in the hard winter of this climate by the lost and almost abandoned children of the regiments of France.

One thinks of the reproaches which they would have made to the news brought by the Indians, to the wind which howled, to the snow storm.... The fort is decorated in our honor. On its front, a bronze plaque bears this inscription: “Germain redoubt constructed by captain Germain, régiment des Gardes de la Reine, in 1758, by order of the marquis de Montcalm, in command of the fortress of Carillon.”

The extent of the old covered way, cut through to-day, brings us to the interior of the earthworks. Before us, at 500 meters, high glacis crown the hill and conceal just at the roof line a construction which would have served as quarters for the officers. I notice two flags waving at the end of two great flagstaffs, and more below, like a basket of violets moving, for the wind is brisk, where they have been planted. But no one explains to me yet what we have come to see, and Mr. Pell, who walks with me, stooping, picks a woolly leaf of a wild plant, and says to me: “Keep it as souvenir. Right here, some years ago, we set out to make an excavation. At the first stroke of the pick the workmen uncovered some bodies clothed in trimmed uniforms. They were immediately ordered to cover them up and not to disturb them.” We were moved. I continued to ascend the hill. One has to turn a little to find the entrance into the fortress of Carillon. A dozen cannon outside are still pointed towards the lake and towards the little neighboring mountain, “The mount of France” which drew the English artillery. I enter the enclosure of the fortress. It is trimmed up. It awaits France. Ah, see who has come—La France! and she sees in front of the wall of Montcalm’s old quarters, ten silken standards which the wind lifts and lets fall heavily on the staffs; violet squares bordered with white, blue panels barred with red, many-colored banners, all the standards of the regiments of France which were represented at the battle of Carillon. The victorious colors live again in the light, and a little above, dominating[104] the broken walls and the roofs, two great flags protect the others, command them and explain them; the starry flag of young America and the banner of ancient France, all white and strewn with Fleur-de-lis. My eyes fill with tears, and I really think that two tears have fallen. I am sure that they said, “Long live this American who has a deep heart.” They say still other things and I feel myself living wholly in the France of other days.

The house of the fort has become a museum; swords, guns, ammunition, letters, keys, spades which were broken in throwing up the entrenchments, engravings of several periods, are there hung on the walls or arranged in showcases; even an old watch, which the journal of the fortress, likewise preserved, states, had been lost among the ruins. We linger there and I notice that our traveling companions speak less as time passes. But when we have made the round of the walls of Carillon and when we notice in the full light of ten o’clock in the morning all the country which the old fort commands, words come again; joy, also; the ground descends from there down to the lake, narrow at this point; the hills rise gradually and the blue of the distance defines itself in clear lines upon the pale azure of the horizon. Some one says: “Do you not notice how that resembles the plain of Pau, as seen from the terrace?” Indeed, if I efface from my memory the image of blue waters, which the waters of Lake Champlain disturbed by the melting snows do not at all resemble, and which do not reflect the sky, the two landscapes have a similarity. Even the atmosphere is transparent here, revealing the elevated conformation of the distance. Another of our companions, who soon notices the extended form of the lake and the color of the trees on the lower level, says, almost at the same moment, “I believe I see the Vosges with Retournemer and Longemer.” In other ways we recognize here French harmonies.

Some hours later, we are on a point of land quite far from the fort of Carillon, at the foot of a white stone lighthouse. The light overlooks a stretch of bad rock land, standing in the midst of low places and fields which stretch out behind it. What a desert this would be, and from the origin of the world, this spur on which break the short waves of Lake Champlain!

But to-day the people of the American towns, those who live in the Adirondacks, those from the other side of the water, miners, farmers, and various workers, or trout fishers, who have come to prepare for the coming season, have assembled at Crown Point Forts. Some horses, picketed, browse in the fields; others are hitched to the branches of a hawthorne—the remains, perhaps of an old plantation, set out by the hand of a jealous old French soldier. Some American carriages, a little seat on four very light wheels; some wagons, twenty automobiles, are scattered on the grass, while around the lighthouse, on all the levels of the rock, are seated upon[105] benches or on the ground a mixed population, intimate, badly controlling the children who race around like young quail; listening, understanding—or pretending to understand—the speeches which glorify Champlain. The bronze medallion which represents France, the work of Rodin, brought by us, is already set in its niche in front. The wind blows; it causes to vibrate the ten cords stretched from the lantern of the lighthouse to the ground in a crown, and flaps the big canopy and all the flags which ornament it. And as my mind wanders when the speeches are in English, I listen to what the flags are saying:

“Do you see them, these people seated in the front row? They don’t belong here.”

“It’s plain that they don’t belong here. You’re not saying much of anything: Are they tanned by the open air? Have they the free and easy way of the American citizen?”

“I suppose that they are from Paris?”

“You have a very simple way of being sure of it, my dear. Did you ever hear such a noise! Listen! When they are from Paris, there is never any lack of talk!”

“—Precisely, the orator proclaims himself; he comes from Paris.”

“Not of great extent, this France?”

“Not very formidable?”

One flag, smoke-blackened, said:

“Not very serious?”

Then, the English flag, which had said nothing, snapped a blow so sharp that a whip wouldn’t have been better.

“Very serious, my dear. I’ve known the French. I’ve known the French at a time when you were not such a much, be it said without offense to you. I have known Champlain. He had a jovial way. He was usually pleasant. The Indians said of him: ‘We like to hear you speak. You always have something pleasant to say.’ But, believe me, I understood him: it was as a colonial and a rough adversary, I say adversary, because that is the name that one gives to his old enemies when they have become his friends, you understand?”

“Pretty well.”

I leave the flags, ruffling. I think of this brave man, whose fête this is, at this moment, in his little sleepy and grass-grown town of Brouage: of the dreams of glory that were his, all youthful, like those of a good many men of his time, and which he accomplished because he had a heart capable of suffering for his love. For he loved France. He left her, the better to serve her. He bore with him, to the West Indies, and afterwards to Canada, a poor companion, a perfect and[106] holy image. Almost alone among the savages, having carried upon his strong shoulders, oars, provisions and the blanket for his bed at night, enured to heat, to cold, to mosquitoes, to long exiles and the perpetual treason of men, over these identical grounds where we now are, he made his way to discovery, beholding a new world reveal itself about him, and giving it to his Lord in heaven, as he gave it to his King, secretly, hourly, by each glance with which he took possession of this unknown world. For he says: “Kings should not think of extending their domination in infidel lands, except to establish there the reign of Christ.” Commerce was not forgotten. But what superior humanity! It is still living, only disregarded. Champlain has passed here. I realize that this landscape has been reflected in his eyes as it is in mine. This landscape? Is it indeed sure? Where are the trusty witnesses? Not the meadow, which is new. Not the trees, too young for him to have known, nor the waters, which have changed, nor the clouds, nor even the ancestors of the spectators assembled on this strand. We can scarcely say that the movement of the sun sang as to-day, the same verse in the hymn universal.

M. Bazin concludes with a running account of his continued journey to Montreal and Quebec, recalling at length their wealth of historic associations.


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IX. COMMENT IN APPRECIATION OF THE VISIT OF THE FRENCH DELEGATION AND HONORS CONFERRED

The mission of the French delegation proved to be of far deeper import, than the mere presentation of the Rodin bust, gratifying to Americans as was that superb gift on the part of its donors. It awakened in the people of this country, quite as much as it did in the members of that delegation, renewed interest in the activities and achievements of the peoples of the two Republics, which are the foremost democracies of the world. M. Hanotaux, a scholar, a statesman and a diplomat and his distinguished colleagues, are among the foremost citizens of France. They represented the several departments of the Government as well as the various trades and professions in the civil life of that Republic. Commerce and industries were represented by M. Antoine Girard, Counsellor of Foreign Commerce. Their reputation had long been established in science, in literature and in the fine arts and also in jurisprudence, in statesmanship and in diplomacy, as exemplified in the genial and charming personality of Ambassador Jusserand. They are among the present day celebrities of the French nation and were invited to become members of the Embassy on account of their individual standing in the official, social and intellectual life of that Republic.

One cannot read their addresses and their reports to Paris of the impressions, which they formed on their visit to America, without appreciating the spontaneity of their tributes to the American people and to their institutions, the warmth of their expressions of good will and generous impulses towards the people of this nation and their gratitude for the deep interest shown by the people of the United States, and especially by those of Vermont and New York, in commemorating the achievements and the character of one of their countrymen.

The unreported addresses of Baron D’Estournelle de Constant, member of the French Senate and the representative of France at the[110] Hague International Peace Tribunal, and of M. Louis Barthou, ex-Minister of Justice and one of the leading Parliamentarians of the Chamber of Deputies, will long be remembered for their urbanity, for the breadth of their views, and for the brilliancy of their eloquent periods. The addresses of M. Hanotaux and others and the foregoing reports of Gaston Deschamps, of M. de la Blache, the geographer of the University of Paris, and of René Bazin, of the French Academy, disclose the character and beauty of the style of the French littérateurs. Wherever the members of the delegation went, they were gratefully welcomed and entertained in stately manner. The social functions taxed the powers of endurance on the part of the visitors to their full extent. They made hosts of friends and gave Americans opportunity to meet them and to become acquainted with gentlemen and ladies possessed of the rare culture and refinement of French life. Their visit was timely and did much to strengthen the ties that bind the peoples of the two Republics in friendly accord. They made an impression on the people of this country that will be quite as enduring as the bronze testimonial of the good will of the people of France towards those of the United States, firmly set in the granite base of the Champlain Memorial at Crown Point Forts and there was voiced by the friends, whom they made in America, the sentiment, Vive la France.

Some months after the return of the French delegation to France, Commissioner Walter C. Witherbee was appointed by the President of the French Republic a Knight of the Legion of Honor, which was formally and appreciatively acknowledged by this Commission.

Knighthood in the Legion of Honor was also conferred by the President of France upon Hon. Frank S. Witherbee, a member of Preliminary Champlain Commission and President of the Lake Champlain Association, which participated in the entertainment of the French delegation at the Waldorf-Astoria banquet on May 1, 1912.

Hon. A. Barton Hepburn, President of the Chamber of Commerce of the State of New York, which entertained the French delegation at[111] luncheon on May 2, 1912, has recently been decorated by the President of France with the honorary rank of Officer in the Legion of Honor.

The French Government has recently presented to Honorable Charles B. Alexander, member of the Society of the Cincinnati, who gave a reception on April 30, 1912, to the French delegation in his beautiful home at No. 4 West 58th Street, New York City, the artistic Sèvres bisque group of national manufacture, known as “Télémaque chez Calypso,” by the sculptor, M. Louis Simon Boizot.

Knighthood in the Legion of Honor was also conferred by the President of the Republic of France upon President John H. Finley of the College of the City of New York, who has taken deep interest in the life of Samuel Champlain and in French colonization in America. His felicitous remarks at the Waldorf-Astoria banquet on May 1, 1912, were genuinely appreciated by Ambassador Jusserand, the members of the French delegation, and all others in attendance. President Finley was the Harvard Exchange lecturer under the Hyde Foundation in 1910 at the University of Paris and at ten other French universities.

In February, 1913, His Excellency, Raymond Poincaré, President of the Republic of France, appointed Henry W. Hill, Secretary of the New York Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission, a Knight of the Legion of Honor, in recognition of his public, literary and other services in connection with the Tercentenary Celebration from its inception in 1907 to the conclusion of the Final Report of the Commission in 1913.

These delicate and touching expressions of appreciation on the part of President Fallières, President Poincaré, Ambassador Jusserand and the citizens of France of the courtesies shown to the members of the French delegation, while in the United States, are still further evidences of the warmth of the kindly feelings existing between the people of that Republic and those of this nation, and are gratefully appreciated.


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Part Two

DEDICATORY CEREMONIES


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I. PREPARATION FOR DEDICATORY CEREMONIES, INCLUDING MILITARY FEATURES

The Commission decided to have the dedicatory ceremonies of the Crown Point memorial on July 5, 1912, and of the Plattsburgh memorial on July 6, 1912, the anniversary week of the Tercentenary Celebration. Formal invitations to the dedicatory ceremonies of the Crown Point memorial were sent by the New York and Vermont Lake Champlain Commissions, and to the dedicatory exercises of the Plattsburgh memorial, by the New York Commission, to the President and Vice-President of the United States, to the United States Senators of New York and Vermont, to the members of Congress from the Champlain valley, to the French Ambassador, His Excellency, J. J. Jusserand, the British Ambassador, the Right Honorable James Bryce and to Count and Countess de Peretti de la Rocca and to M. Maugras, members of the French Embassy and to members of the British Embassy at Washington, to the Governors, Lieutenant-Governors and other officials of New York and Vermont, including Hon. William Sohmer, State Comptroller, Hon. Andrew S. Draper, State Commissioner of Education, Hon. Henry W. Hoefer, State Architect, Major-General John F. O’Ryan, Adjutant-General William Verbeck and Hon. James A. Holden, State Historian, Hon. John A. Bensel, State Engineer and Surveyor, to prominent members of the State Legislature, to Justice Charles E. Hughes, former Governor of New York, to Hon. George H. Prouty, former Governor of Vermont, to Col. Calvin D. Cowles, to Hon. Frank S. Witherbee, President of the Champlain Association, to Percival Wilds, Secretary of that Association, to Mr. Stephen H. P. Pell, to Hon. James A. Roberts, President of the New York State Historical Association, to Frederick B. Richards, Secretary of the New York State Historical Association, to Dr. George F. Kunz, President of the American Scenic and Historic Preservation Society, to Hon. Charles B. Alexander, to Hon. McDougall Hawkes, to Carl A. Heber, the sculptor, to Paul Faguet of the French Line, to Hon. William[118] Cary Sanger, to Hon. Francis Lynde Stetson, Hon. Robert Roberts, to Hon. Job E. Hedges, to President Guy Potter Benton, LL. D., of the University of Vermont, to President John M. Thomas, D. D., of Middlebury College, to President Charles H. Spooner, Ph. D., of Norwich University, and to others, in addition to the invitations sent to members of the New York and Vermont Tercentenary Commissions, and to some prominent citizens of Vermont.

The special invitations included in most instances the ladies of the gentlemen so invited and they were present at all the exercises.

The Board of Governors of the Lake Champlain Association through its Secretary, Percival Wilds, sent to its members notice they were invited to the dedicatory exercises and to accompany the guests on the steamer “Ticonderoga” through the lake.

President Frank S. Witherbee and many members of the Association were present at the dedicatory ceremonies of the Crown Point and the Plattsburgh memorials. The officers and members of the Lake Champlain Association took a deep interest in the Tercentenary celebration and from time to time rendered assistance to the Tercentenary Commissioners in various ways, and especially so in assuming the responsibility and conduct of the banquet to the French delegation at the Waldorf-Astoria in New York City on May 1, 1912.

In arranging for the dedicatory exercises, no effort was made to augment the attendance, nor to rival in elaboration the programme of the Tercentenary celebration of 1909.

All that remained on this occasion for the Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commissioners to do was to turn over formally to the properly constituted authorities the Champlain memorials, which had been constructed pursuant to law at Crown Point Forts and at Plattsburgh. The exercises, therefore, were planned with that end in view. They were dignified and stately, but did not extend beyond the formal presentation and acceptances of the memorials as will appear from the record that follows. The President, Vice-President, United States Senators, Foreign Ambassadors and some other specially invited guests were unable[119] to attend on account of the prolonged second session of the Sixty-second Congress, or absence from the country, at the time of the dedicatory ceremonies, to the regret of the members of the Commissions and the people of the Champlain valley. The participation of these officials of the United States, France and Great Britain in the Tercentenary exercises had added national as well as international stateliness to that commemorative celebration, still fresh in the memory of all who chanced to witness it. The unavoidable absence of these distinguished guests was in a measure compensated for, however, in the presence of their representatives, who contributed much to the success of the dedicatory ceremonies. All arrangements were carried forward for the dedication of the Crown Point memorial by Commissioners Witherbee, Knapp, Pell, Lafontaine and Shea with all the forethought and care that had characterized their painstaking efforts from the first. Commissioner Hill, and President John M. Thomas of the Vermont Commission planned the programme and secured the speakers. Commissioners Booth, Riley, Weaver and Knapp were no less vigilant in preparing for the dedicatory ceremonies of the Plattsburgh Champlain Memorial. In this they were materially assisted by the mayor of the city, the Chamber of Commerce and the people of Plattsburgh as well as by Colonel Calvin D. Cowles of the Fifth U. S. Infantry, stationed at Plattsburgh Barracks. The people of Plattsburgh purchased and improved the site for the Champlain memorial, decorated the streets for the dedicatory exercises, provided automobiles for the visitors to make a tour of the city and aided the Tercentenary Commissioners in other ways in carrying to a successful conclusion the dedicatory ceremonies.

The attendance at both the Crown Point and the Plattsburgh exercises was thoroughly representative of the people of the Champlain valley, though not as large as at the Tercentenary exercises. The steamer “Ticonderoga” was chartered by the New York Tercentenary Commission and brought the invited guests from Plattsburgh, Burlington and Port Henry. After the exercises at Crown Point Forts, the “Ticonderoga” took the guests back to their several destinations and the members[120] of the Tercentenary Commissions to Bluff Point, where they registered at the new Hotel Champlain.

The military features of the dedicatory ceremonies are given in the following report of the Military Committee:

The military features of the ceremonies attending the dedication of the Champlain Memorial Lighthouse at Crown Point, N. Y., July 5, 1912, and the unveiling of the Statue of Champlain at Plattsburgh, N. Y., July 6, 1912, were on a much smaller scale than those of the celebration of 1909, but the presence of the United States and State troops added greatly to the dignity of the ceremonies at both places. When the chartered steamboat “Ticonderoga” left the dock at Port Henry at 11:30 A. M., July 5th, Governor John A. Dix and the following members of his staff were on board:

Brigadier-General William Verbeck, The Adjutant-General, S. N. Y.

Lieutenant-Commander Eckford Craven de Kay, Military Secretary to the Governor.

Commander Russell Raynor, First Battalion, N. M.

Commander Edward H. Snyder, 47th Infantry, N. G., N. Y.

Captain Walter S. Gibson, 74th Infantry, N. G., N. Y.

Captain Charles Curie, First Cavalry, N. G., N. Y.

First Lieutenant Griswold Green, Aide, Third Brigade, N. G., N. Y.

First Lieutenant Harry S. Underwood, Aide, Third Brigade, N. G., N. Y.

Major-General John F. O’Ryan, N. G., N. Y., came up on the special car from New York and was the guest of the Commission until evening, when he was obliged to return to review the Sixty-ninth Regiment, N. G., N. Y.

Governor John A. Mead of Vermont was unable to be present but was represented by:

Lee S. Tillotson, The Adjutant-General, representing the Governor.

Colonel D. L. Morgan, Aide-de-Camp.

Major H. R. Kingsley, Military Secretary.

First Lieutenant John B. Barnes, U. S. Infantry, Inspector-Instructor, Organized Militia of Vermont.

Landing Troops and Guests at Crown Point Forts, July 5, 1912
Col. Sanger, Gov. Dix and Others landing at Crown Point Memorial, July 5, 1912

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Company “M,” 1st Infantry, N. G., Vt., Captain J. M. Ashley commanding, and forty enlisted men came down from Burlington on the steamboat.

The 9th Separate Company of Whitehall, or Company “I,” 2d Infantry, N. G., N. Y., went into camp at the Lake House, Crown Point Village, on July 4th, and proceeded on a ferryboat early in the morning of the 5th to the Crown Point Forts. Captain R. G. Hays was in command with First Lieutenant J. J. Kelly, Second Lieutenant Dewey A. Forbush, and fifty enlisted men.

CROWN POINT FORTS

On the arrival of the “Ticonderoga” at the wharf at the Champlain Memorial Lighthouse, Crown Point, N. Y., Captain Hays’ Company was drawn up in line to receive the guests. Captain Ashley’s Company marched off the boat preceded by the Port Henry Band. Governor Dix, the Tercentennial Commissioners and the invited guests followed and the line of march was formed under escort of the two companies. Company “I” being on the right. The column then proceeded to the English forts, where the bronze memorial tablet presented to the State by the Society of Colonial Wars in the State of New York was unveiled by Miss Evelyn Witherbee. The two companies were drawn up to the right and left of the tablet which was guarded by a sergeant from Company “I.” At the conclusion of the brief ceremonies, the column returned to the wharf, where the invited guests boarded the steamboat for luncheon while the troops bivouacked on the shore. At 1:30 P. M. the companies were drawn up in line near the Lighthouse, Company “I” being on the New York side of the Government Reservation, and Company “M” on the side toward Vermont. At the conclusion of the ceremonies Company “I” returned to their camp, on the ferryboat, and Company “M” boarded the “Ticonderoga” to be landed at Burlington.

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PLATTSBURGH

At 10 A. M., July 6th, Governor Dix, the Tercentenary Commissioners and the invited guests were present at a review of the Fifth Infantry, U. S. A., at Plattsburgh Barracks, ordered in their honor by Colonel Calvin D. Cowles, Commanding Officer of the Post. As Governor Dix approached the reviewing stand, the regulation salute of seventeen guns was fired. At 1:30 P. M. the regiment escorted the party from the hotel through the streets of Plattsburgh to the new Champlain Park, where line was formed and the proper salutes given. At the conclusion of the ceremonies of the unveiling of the Champlain Monument, the regiment returned to its quarters. The names of the officers and number of enlisted men, including the band, participating in the ceremonies are as follows:

Colonel Calvin D. Cowles, Fifth Infantry; Major William F. Martin, Fifth Infantry; Major Armand I. Lasseigne, Fifth Infantry; Major Peter C. Harris, Fifth Infantry; Chaplain Horace A. Chouinard, Fifth Infantry; Captain Edward Sigerfoos, Adjutant, Fifth Infantry; Captain William D. Davis, Quarter-Master, Fifth Infantry; Captain Girard Sturtevant, Fifth Infantry; Captain Robert Field, Commissary, Fifth Infantry; Captain Robert E. Frith, Fifth Infantry; Captain Clement A. Trott, Fifth Infantry; Captain Ralph McCoy, Fifth Infantry; Captain Howard C. Price, Fifth Infantry; First Lieutenant Leonard J. Mygatt, Fifth Infantry; First Lieutenant Auswell E. Deitsch, Fifth Infantry; First Lieutenant Sydney H. Hopson, Fifth Infantry; First Lieutenant Will D. Wills, Fifth Infantry; First Lieutenant Daniel A. Nolan, Battalion Adjutant, Fifth Infantry; First Lieutenant James E. McDonald, Fifth Infantry; First Lieutenant Deshler Whiting, Fifth Infantry; First Lieutenant Walton Goodwin, Jr., Fifth Infantry; First Lieutenant Thomas L. Crystal, Battalion Adjutant, Fifth Infantry; Second Lieutenant Charles F. White, Fifth Infantry; Second Lieutenant Alfred H. Erck, Fifth Infantry; Second Lieutenant Oliver A. Dickinson, Fifth Infantry; Second Lieutenant John M. McDowell, Fifth Infantry; Second Lieutenant Thompson Lawrence, Fifth Infantry; Second Lieutenant Sumner Waite, Fifth Infantry—714 enlisted men.

Howland Pell,
Chairman.


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II. UNVEILING TABLET AT THE ENGLISH FORT.

Upon reaching Crown Point Forts, a tablet was unveiled on the walls of the old Barracks at the English fort, built by General Amherst and occasionally called “Fort Amherst,” by members of the Society of Colonial Wars, which was witnessed by the Champlain Commissioners and the large assemblage of people. The following report of the Tablet Committee is of historical interest:

REPORT OF THE TABLET COMMITTEE

To the members of the Society of Colonial Wars, in the State of New York, your committee beg to report that the tablet has been designed, cast and erected on the walls of the old Barracks at Fort Amherst in the State Reservation at Crown Point, New York.

The design was drawn and the details of modeling were carried out under the supervision of Mr. Walter B. Chambers, of the committee. The sculptor who made the Tablet was Mr. Herman Wurth.

The tablet was unveiled with appropriate ceremony on Friday, July 5, 1912, on the occasion of the dedication of the Champlain Memorial Lighthouse, erected by the states of New York and Vermont, at Crown Point, N. Y.

The members of the Society were guests of the Tercentenary Commissions on the steamboat “Ticonderoga,” leaving Port Henry, New York. At 11:30 A. M. on the day mentioned, and on landing at Crown Point, a procession was formed and led by the Port Henry Band, and an escort of Company “I,” 2d Regiment, N. G., N. Y., and Company “M,” N. G., Vt., Governor Dix and staff, Adjutant-General Tillotson and staff, representing Governor John A. Mead, of Vermont.

Major-General John F. O’Ryan, N. G., N. Y., Count and Countess de Peretti de la Rocca, and Mr. Maugras, representing the French Embassy.

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Members of the New York and Vermont Champlain Tercentenary Commission, Colonel William Cary Sanger, Governor of our Society, Frederick B. Richards, Dr. Reynolds Webb Wilcox, George G. Reynolds, Stephen H. P. Pell, and other members of the Society, and about one hundred invited guests marched from the wharf to the English Fort built under Amherst, where the tablet was handsomely decorated with American flags guarded by a soldier of the 2d Regiment.

Hon. Howland Pell, your chairman, called the meeting to order, and stated that the committee had finished its task, and asked Miss Evelyn Witherbee to unveil the tablet. As this was done the band played the National air, the troops came to attention, and the audience of several thousand applauded. Its inscription showed that the tablet was erected by the Society of Colonial Wars in commemoration of the erection of the Fortress by Amherst and capture of Fort St. Frédéric.

Unveiling Tablet at Fort Amherst, July 5, 1912

The chairman then introduced Col. William Cary Sanger, who in a few well chosen words presented the tablet to the State of New York. Governor Dix then made a brief address, accepting the Tablet and placed it in the custody of the New York Historical Association in charge of the Reservation. Mr. James A. Holden, Treasurer, and Mr. Frederick B. Richards, Secretary, of the Association, accepted the charge and made short addresses. Judge Pyrke, of Port Henry, chairman of the local committee, promised to see that the tablet would be well cared for. The tablet bears the following inscription:

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1759 1912.

THIS TABLET IS ERECTED BY THE SOCIETY OF COLONIAL WARS IN THE STATE OF NEW-YORK A. D. 1912 TO COMMEMORATE THE CAPTURE OF FORT ST. FRÉDÉRIC AND THE ERECTION OF THIS FORTRESS A. D. 1759 BY THE BRITISH AND PROVINCIAL ARMY COMMANDED BY GENERAL SIR JEFFREY AMHERST

BRITISH REGIMENTS PROVINCIAL REGIMENTS
1st or the Royal Regiment of Foot Col. Lyman’s—Connecticut
17th Regiment of Foot “Forbé’s” Col. Whiting’s—Connecticut
27th (Inniskilling) Regiment of Foot Col. Worcester’s—Connecticut
42d Royal Highlanders—Black Watch Col. Fitch’s—Connecticut
55th Regiment of Foot, “Prideaux’s” Col. Willard’s—Massachusetts
77th Regiment Montgomery’s Highlanders Col. Ruggle’s—Massachusetts
80th (Light Armed)—Regiment of Foot “Gage’s” Col. Lovell’s—New Hampshire
Royal Artillery Col. Schuyler’s—New Jersey
Detachment of Sailors Col. Babcock’s—Rhode Island Rangers and Indians.

The tablet is of the finest bronze, 30 by 24 inches in size, and represents a soldier of the Black Watch, and a provincial soldier holding a scroll of inscription. General Sir Jeffrey Amherst’s head is in the upper center, and the insignia of the Society in the lower, the background shows the English forts, and a list of the English and American regiments in the campaign is given.

Howland Pell,
Chairman.

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Address of Acceptance of Tablet by James Austin Holden, State Historian and Treasurer, New York State Historical Association

The tablet was formally accepted for the New York State Historical Association by State Historian James A. Holden of Glens Falls, who is ex-officio a member of the committee in charge of the Crown Point Reservation, as well as Treasurer of the New York State Historical Association. He spoke briefly as follows:

Your Excellency, Tercentenary Commissioners, Representatives of New York and of Vermont, of France, of Patriotic and Historical Societies, Ladies and Gentlemen: It is with great pleasure that I accept on behalf of the New York Historical Association, the official custodians of the Crown Point Reservation, this beautiful and distinctive tablet which has just been presented by the Society of Colonial Wars to the State of New York, through you, its Governor.

It is especially gratifying to the Association to receive it from your hands, for it is to you, and your broad and patriotic conception of the duties of the chief executive of the State, that our hearty thanks are due for the generous and welcome local appropriations which you lately have approved, making so largely for the preservation, the maintenance and popularity of the reservation.

On this torrid July day whose sun’s rays reflected from these crumbling walls are full as deadly as any of the bullets which blazed forth at them in days of old, my words of acceptance must be brief indeed.

This expressive addition, then, to these historic walls, whose story is rife with actions of emprise and derring-do, around which still hover the historic spirits of the olden wars, connected with which are the inspiring deeds of the knightly souls of Montcalm and Amherst, of Warner and Burgoyne, yes, even of Arnold the patriot, not yet the traitor, full of the memories of the now shadowy hosts of white coated Bourbons, the red attired British, and the buff and blue covered Revolutionists, we accept and assure your Excellency that it shall be our earnest endeavor to prove worthy in every way of the confidence reposed in us in making this Association the State’s representative for this reservation.

On behalf of the Association I now turn over to the Secretary of the Association the formal care of the tablet, thanking once more your Excellency and all who have been concerned in the presentation of this memorial, for giving to the Association this further opportunity to prove its historical usefulness, and to justify its being, and for providing this occasion to exemplify practically the purposes for which it was founded.

Tablet Unveiled at Fort Amherst, July 5, 1912

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Frederick B. Richards, Secretary of the New York State Historical Association, at the unveiling of the tablet at Crown Point Forts, N. Y., July 5, 1912, said:

I supplement State Historian Holden because I feel that it will take at least two to make up for the absence of our esteemed President, Ex-Comptroller Roberts, who was to have represented the New York State Historical Association this morning.

We feel deeply honored that the State has designated our Association as custodians of this reservation. We are still further honored by being entrusted with this beautiful tablet, erected by the Society of Colonial Wars, which, linking as it does the past with the present, adds to the interest of these old ruins.

I will not detain you longer this morning except to call your attention to one feature of the tablet in which I am particularly interested. You will notice that the list of the regiments is supported on the left by a Highlander, a private of the Royal Highlanders as they were known in this campaign, otherwise called the 42d, “Old Forty-Twa,” or the Black Watch.

The Black Watch, the oldest Highland regiment in the British Army and one of the regiments under Amherst who helped to build this old fort, was selected for this place of honor because of its unparalleled gallantry in the assault on Fort Ticonderoga under General Abercromby the year before, in which engagement it lost 646, killed and wounded, out of a total strength of a thousand men who went into action, or a mortality of twice that of the Light Brigade at Balaklava, immortalized by Tennyson.

Col. Sanger, Gov. Dix and Staff approaching Memorial at Crown Point, July 5, 1912

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III. DEDICATORY CEREMONIES OF CHAMPLAIN MEMORIAL LIGHTHOUSE AT CROWN POINT FORTS JULY 5, 1912

At the appointed hour for the dedicatory ceremonies at Crown Point Forts on July 5, 1912, a large multitude had assembled from the Champlain valley and from the two states to witness the exercises.

Seated on the temporary platform in front of the Champlain Memorial Lighthouse were: Colonel William Cary Sanger, representing the President of the United States, Count de Peretti de la Rocca, representing the French Ambassador, Governor John A. Dix of New York, Adjutant-General Lee S. Tillotson, representing the Governor of Vermont, and Commissioners H. Wallace Knapp, Chairman; Henry W. Hill, Secretary; Walter C. Witherbee, Treasurer; Senator James A. Foley, Judge John B. Riley, Judge John H. Booth, James Shea, Louis C. Lafontaine, Howland Pell and William R. Weaver of the New York Tercentenary Commission; and Lynn M. Hays, Secretary; Judge Frank L. Fish, Treasurer; President John M. Thomas, Walter H. Crockett, George T. Jarvis, William J. Van Patten, Arthur F. Stone and F. O. Beaupre of the Vermont Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission, and the speakers, invited guests and others.

The memorial as already stated was not complete in that the bronze statuary group was represented by the models, as the bronze work had not been put in position. That did not detract, however, from the artistic features of the memorial, which were much admired by the assembled multitude. The platform and memorial were artistically decorated with the flags of the United States.

The programme at the dedicatory ceremonies was the following:

Hon. H. Wallace Knapp, Chairman of the New York Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission, presided:

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The exercises were opened with appropriate music by the Sherman Military Band of Burlington, Vermont. The following Invocation was then pronounced by Rev. Lewis Francis, D.D., of New York City.

Almighty God, our Heavenly Father, we invoke Thy blessing as we are gathered here to dedicate a monument which has been erected in commemoration of the discoveries and achievements of one whose name is borne by the beautiful lake on whose shores we are assembled.

We thank Thee for his heroism and his faith, for his loyalty to his beloved country and his devotion to God. We thank Thee for his desire not only to plant the standard of France upon the land which he had discovered, but also to uplift the cross upon it. We thank Thee for the friendship which has existed for many years between the two countries which are represented here to-day. May this monument, erected by our country in memory of one of the heroes of France, be a fresh token of this friendship.

Let Thy blessing rest upon the two States which have united in making this dedication possible. May this monument by its stability remind us of those strong and enduring qualities of character which should mark us as nations and individuals. May the light which shall shine forth from its summit be a symbol of the light of knowledge and of truth which as States and Nations we should seek to give the world, which may be both a guide and a warning; and may it bring Him to our thought, who is the Light of the world, that walking in His Light we may be guided aright through every peril of our lives.

May the blessing of God the Father, God the Son, and God the Holy Ghost rest upon the States and Nations here represented, and upon all of us who have assembled here to celebrate this glad event.

And this we ask in the name of Jesus Christ, our Lord, Amen.

Champlain Memorial Lighthouse, July 5, 1912

Then followed the formal unveiling of the Champlain Memorial Lighthouse by Miss Louise G. Witherbee, daughter of Commissioner Walter C. Witherbee, as the patriotic strains of the Star Spangled Banner were being played by the Port Henry Band. As the memorial was exposed to full view, its symmetry and beauty provoked the applause of the admiring spectators, who thus saw the fulfillment of their long cherished hopes, that there be erected in the Valley a stately memorial to Samuel Champlain. Chairman Knapp, in speaking for the New York[135] Tercentenary Commission, thereupon formally presented the memorial to the Governor of New York. In doing so he spoke as follows:

In obedience to the authorization of the Federal Government, the Commissions of the States of Vermont and New York have erected on the lands of the United States of America, adjacent to the Crown Point Reservation, the specified memorial of the discovery of the Champlain valley, and are now acting in the discharge of their final duties, with the sincere feeling of gratification that a task so honorable has been brought to so happy an ending.

Our duty has been to do, rather than to speak, and yet it may not be wholly out of place to give expression to the general thought, that the light of peace and safety, that is to glow from this monument through an unreckoned future, replaces the fitful fire of early war.

The shores that the discoverer scanned with painful daring are no longer dark and solitary. He is no longer alone. The temptation to review the events of his arrival here are strong, but time forbids, and to do so in detail must be left to the official record. Nor need we in the discharge of our official functions attempt to portray the full significance of the deed we now commemorate. We must wait till the voice of history speaks, with the judgment of warriors and statesmen, with the inspiration of poetry and the reverence of enlightened piety.

There seem to be moments in the life of every man, when he pauses in his career to recall the past and seeks to peer into the future, and so it is appointed for us to do to-day. While the daily rush of the outer world passes us by unheedingly in appearance, it is yet not truly so. From the day of the first visit of the white man, the eyes of the enlightened world have been upon the Champlain valley and the attentive good will of all well-wishers of their kind who are with us now.

It can hardly be said that the present occasion marks the ending of an old epoch or the beginning of a new one. Peace has reigned within our borders for a hundred years. It marks rather the recognition of a century of peace as a harbinger of still more harmonious conditions for all times between the peoples whose fathers struggled here for mastery. It marks the welcoming of a new order of things in which the old problems have met their just solution and in which the ancient grudge is lost in charity. Standing here beside this monument to the past, and beacon of the future, we know that:

God fulfills Himself in many ways,
The old order changeth indeed when Vermont and New York live only in service to the common good and together place above their monument the emblem of their common country. It has long been so, but it was not always so. It is well, perhaps, to remember the passing altercations, since they serve now only to demonstrate[136] how closely and firmly they have drawn together. Surely this water will run clear and sweet between them and the light from the tower above all fall upon fraternal shores. Vermont has done her duty, and her duty has been a labor of love. With such a spirit sitting by our hearthstone, the future of the valley is secure.

In behalf of the Tercentenary Commission of the State of New York, I thank the members of the Tercentenary Commission of the State of Vermont and all their associates, for the efficiency of their co-operation in the labors that are now drawing to a close.

Gentlemen of the Executive Departments of the States of Vermont and New York, our task is done; the monument before us is at your disposal. In the name of the New York Commission I want to thank you and your predecessors in office for the aid you have given us, and the effective support we have received from you, in the days of our perplexity and discouragement. If any shortcomings of ours are to be remembered, kindly bear in mind that it was our heads and not our hearts that went astray.

That these meetings of officials and citizens of the countries that are represented here will be repeated, and that the spirit of peace and good will will continue for all times is our sincere desire.

Gentlemen, in pursuance of the authority vested in the New York—Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission, we now transfer to your charge the Crown Point Memorial Lighthouse.

President John M. Thomas, D.D., of Middlebury College, representing the Vermont Tercentenary Commission, spoke as follows:

Mr. Chairman, Ladies and Gentlemen: In behalf of the freemen of Vermont, and representing the Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission of Vermont, I have the honor to transfer to the representative of his Excellency, Governor John A. Mead, this memorial of the discoverer of Lake Champlain and of the territory now comprising the State of Vermont. This commemorative light-tower is erected on a site made American soil forever by the valor of our Green Mountain sires. It is our will that it shall stand as a reminder to succeeding generations of the honor in which the men of the generation of the three hundredth anniversary of his discovery held the intrepid navigator, the scholarly explorer, and the Christian pioneer, Samuel Champlain.

Gov. John A. Dix speaking at Crown Point Memorial, July 5, 1912

Gov. John A. Dix of New York, in accepting the memorial and transferring it to the United States, said:

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Fellow-Citizens of America, and Brethren of the World, Ladies and Gentlemen:

This memorial to that great son of France, whose life and service we recall in gratitude and honor to-day, is peculiarly appropriate and expressive.

Its foundation is grounded upon a rock, its aspect is magnificent, its position commanding, and its work is for the lighting of the way of humanity. How well it typifies the character and the deeds of Champlain! He had the firmness and the constancy of the rock in his character, the beauty of the superstructure in his life, and the persistency of the never-failing light in the operations of his mind and heart for the service of his country and mankind.

The contrasts between his times and ours, the marvelous changes that have almost entirely transformed man’s environment within the past three hundred years, make it difficult if not impossible for us to-day properly to appreciate the soul-controlling purposes of Champlain, or estimate the sacrifices he endured in the outworking of those purposes.

Contemplation of Champlain, dreamer, discoverer and hero, is, however, for us a stimulant to imagination and to ambition.

To praise him because of the results that followed through the work of other men and later times, is as illogical as to disparage his character and work by taking the viewpoint of the present without giving due consideration, so far as people of our time can understand them, to the conditions and ideals of his age and the obstacles that he had to overcome in all he achieved.

His journey hither may have been for conquest and not discovery. Upholders of this opinion cite the fact that Champlain had with him and used the first explosive death-dealing weapons seen by the Indians, and that wars between the tribes followed.

Yet Indian wars were known before. Was not war the truest expression of the savage nature? Was not the Long House of the Iroquois the greatest war machine of the time? When in America was exploration free from combat, and what was land discovery but conquest?

Let us receive from Samuel Champlain the inspiration of high aims and purpose and unselfish service to our fellow-men. Let us dedicate ourselves to the work so nobly begun by his indomitable will and fortitude in blazing the way for the American spirit of courage and enterprise that so greatly enriched and developed this northern country.

For me it is sufficient to know that Samuel Champlain was the first white man here, and that the knowledge he gained was the first information that civilization had regarding this wondrous place. Moreover, I know that he was the same man whose mind conceived, as early as the year 1600, the utility and the plan of a ship canal across the Isthmus of Panama.

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Facing almost insuperable difficulties at home and braving unknown obstacles and dangers in the fabled New World, he made not only one or two, but, all told, nine voyages across the Atlantic from his beloved France, exploring our coasts and penetrating into the wilderness of our savage-ridden shores.

Everywhere he went, he planted the cross of his inherited faith and the ideals of a Christian world.

Faith in God and in one’s self, achievement for our nation and our race, and the power of imagination in dissolving all difficulties in the path of progress, are the lessons that his life teaches.

To an American who treasures the traditions of his country and who reveres the one nation of Europe that to the struggling patriots of the Revolution gave the recognition and aid that won the day and established our independence, what keener pleasure can come than on an occasion like this to welcome with heart and hand the representatives of the great French nation? It was our own Jefferson who truly said: “Tout homme a deux patries—la sienne et puis la France.”

It is indeed a high honor to join hands with the representative of the State of Vermont to bequeath to the Federal government for safe keeping and constant care this noble memorial, with the hope that its never-failing light may guide the wayfarer and the voyager on the path of safety.

To you, Colonel Sanger, this monument is now given. (Applause.)

In the absence of Gov. John A. Mead of Vermont, who was detained at home by slight illness, Adjt.-Gen. Lee S. Tillotson received the memorial on behalf of the Governor of Vermont and in turn presented it to the United States in the following address:

Mr. Chairman, Your Excellency, Ladies and Gentlemen: I think it should be made plain that I am not the Governor of Vermont, otherwise my appearance as to clothing might lead some to think that the Governor had exercised his constitutional prerogative and with the consent of the Senate had assumed personal command of the military forces of the State and had come over here to dispute New York’s right to have this memorial located on New York soil. If this were true, it would not be the first time that the “Green Mountain Boys” had invaded this shore of Lake Champlain. However, no such hostile action is intended or necessary or possible, for conditions have changed. This memorial has been erected and located by the joint action of the Commissions of both States: New York and Vermont are now a part of the same nation, both subject to the same national government in whose custody this memorial is about to be placed, and from the United States of[139] America neither New York nor Vermont will ever seek to take anything by force of arms.

During the past few days, since I knew that I might be called upon to speak for the Governor on this occasion, I have been endeavoring to keep up with my everyday work, follow the events connected with the two great national political conventions which have been held, and several other local political meetings, and at the same time to accumulate in my mind the history of the past three hundred years. This effort has resulted in a state of mind which culminated last night in a dream in which it appeared to me that at the point in these ceremonies when Vermont’s share in this memorial was about to be surrendered into the keeping of the representative of the United States, there suddenly appeared on the scene one of the most strenuous of the recently defeated national political candidates and demanded that the Champlain Memorial be turned over to him as the only safe and rightful custodian thereof.

I would be remiss in my duty on this occasion if I did not express to these Commissioners Vermont’s appreciation of their efforts in carrying forward so successfully this memorable celebration which is here completed in the dedication of this beautiful, substantial and useful memorial. It is to be exceedingly regretted that Governor Mead could not have been present in person at this ceremony to speak for our State. In his absence, gentlemen of the Vermont Commission, the Governor directs me to accept this memorial on behalf of the State of Vermont, and to assure you that your task has been well performed and that your work merits, and will undoubtedly receive, the approval of the people of Vermont.

There is one thought which I would like to express to you on this occasion. We are all more or less influenced by the achievements of the past, and through the energy and the daring of such men as Champlain, there probably does not now remain on the earth any such unexplored wildernesses as was this valley when Champlain first saw it; even the poles have been discovered and located. It remains for us of the present and the future to make the best possible use of the advantages which we have thus gained. Let us not sacrifice the beauties of this Champlain Valley to the greed of commercialism. Let it be our effort, rather, to preserve and conserve it in all the magnificence of its natural resources, so that it will remain a haven of peace and rest to which the tired workers of the world may come for recreation and gain thereby renewed energy and ambition for future explorations into the still undiscovered realms of noble art, helpful literature, useful science and honest business.

And now, by direction of the Governor of Vermont and in his name, our custody in this Champlain Memorial is transmitted to the representative of the government of the United States of America, to which, by this act, we again acknowledge our[140] allegiance and pledge our support to the utmost extent of our resources. But while this memorial is thus placed in the hands of the whole people of these United States, I would remind you that the waters over which its light will shine will continue to separate, yet unite the shores of New York and Vermont, to one of which you must always come if you wish to see Champlain in all its beauty, and to both of which, and especially to Vermont, you will always be welcome. (Applause.)

President William H. Taft was unable to be present and commissioned the Hon. William Cary Sanger of Sangerfield, former Assistant Secretary of War of the United States, to receive the memorial on the part of the United States and, in doing so, he spoke as follows:

These interesting ceremonies illustrate one of the great principles which the founders of our country and the framers of our Constitution so wisely made a fundamental part of our national life. To each State is left the care and supervision of those matters which directly and exclusively concern the citizens of the State, and thus individuality and initiative in the development of local spirit and character, are stimulated and encouraged, but those matters which properly concern the people as a whole are cared for by the representatives of the people in one department or another of the National Government. The lighthouses are not only for the use of those who live in their immediate vicinity, but they protect the interests and they encourage the activities of all the people, and consequently they have been placed under the control and care of the National Government.

Col. William Carey Sanger speaking at Crown Point Memorial, July 5, 1912

It was my pleasure on one occasion to hear President Eliot of Harvard University deliver an address on the subject, “Democracy and Beauty.” At first the title seemed strange, but before President Eliot had finished it was apparent to everyone who heard him that it is a privilege, as well as a duty, for those who constitute a democracy to see to it that what is beautiful in nature, in art, and in architecture, should, so far as possible, be brought within such easy reach of the people that the pleasure and benefit which come from beauty may be theirs. This lighthouse marks a step forward in a most important direction. It is true that our public buildings and our private residences and our parks have been growing more and more beautiful under the careful work of those who are responsible for them, but this is the first instance in which an attempt has been made to make a lighthouse a thing of beauty. For this, those responsible for its construction and the architect and the sculptor are entitled to our most grateful appreciation. The lighthouse will be none the less useful to the mariner and will be vastly more valuable[141] to the community because architect and sculptor have united to make it so attractive and interesting that it is a pleasure to look at it.

This light will not only guide those who voyage on these waters, but we can see in it and in all those other lights which mark our coasts and the harbors of our inland seas a symbol of what our national life should be, not only for our people but for the entire world. The lighthouse guides to the desired haven; it warns against shoals; in the dark and in the storm it enables the mariner to find his way in safety past the perils which threaten him. There is storm on land as well as on sea; there are in our national life perplexities and dangers; amid the turmoil of our political, business and social activities there is the right course which leads to the well-being of our people, and there are rocks of error and wrong which threaten with peril or destruction those who do not avoid them. May these lighthouses serve their useful and beneficent purpose, and may the light of liberty and truth burn so brightly that our country, through stress and storm, may see its way clear to such a course of national life as will bring to us the full rewards and blessings of a national life well lived and wisely directed.

It is indeed a disappointment to us all, as well as to the President himself, that he has not been able to be present to-day. He has honored me by asking me to represent him, and on his behalf I accept for the Government of the United States this light, and assure you that it will ever burn to serve the splendid purpose for which you have created it. (Applause.)

Chairman Knapp then presented Count de Peretti de la Rocca, Chargé d’Affaires de France, who, in the absence of the French Ambassador, represented the Republic of France, and spoke as follows:

I shall not speak to you about Champlain; you know more about him than I. Everything around here reminds you of him. And so many speakers more eloquent, members of the French Academy, Ambassadors, Senators, Governors of States, have told you of his spirit of enterprise, his courage, his energy, his force of character, his uprightness of heart. What could I add to their discourses?

But I shall tell you how delighted I am to represent here the French Ambassador. My pleasure is as great as his would have been to be present. Mr. Jusserand told me many times how happy he was to commemorate on similar occasions the beginnings of this country, because the name of France is associated so often with these celebrations by which you Americans show, with such admirable perseverance, your remembrance of the past.

To-day you celebrate the memory of a brave French pioneer who, foreseeing the[142] future, discovered and opened up a beautiful country to the knowledge of mankind and to civilization. Some years ago you raised monuments to the leaders who came with the military power of France to fight for the freedom of your country.

On another occasion, for your gratitude is considerate, you did honor to the memory of the French private soldiers and sailors who fell in the War of Independence and whose names were forgotten. But they shed their blood on this soil where liberty sprang forth, your country, and you wished that a beautiful monument at Annapolis should recall to posterity the memory of those modest heroes.

All these commemorations find an echo on the other side of the ocean, in the sister Republic. They make up other links added to the long chain of friendship which binds our two countries. They induce Frenchmen to cross the sea, like Champlain, impelled by the curiosity of new things, and they discover America. At first they are astonished; they did not expect to see what they see in this country, where three centuries before only explorers dared to venture. And they return to France, like the delegates who came here recently on behalf of the France-Amérique Committee, impressed not only with the future of the United States but with their present, with their unheard of development which surprises our old customs, and they bring back from this young and already great country a store of new ideas.

As Americans who know Paris like to return there, Frenchmen who once come to the United States wish to come back again; for we have much to learn the one from the other. Let us, therefore, see each other as much as possible: the more we shall know each other, the better we shall like each other. History encourages us to do so; our mutual interests recommend us to do likewise. Thank God, if so many Americans are the worthy descendants of the heroes of the Revolutionary War, there are yet in France many men of the type of Champlain, with the same energy, the same eagerness for knowledge, the same uprightness. These are characteristics of the race in that old France, always young, of which one of our best artists has portrayed the features in bronze so that you may see them there, in the midst of you, under the shadow of the memorial to a great Frenchman, who, like all Frenchmen coming over here, loved America. (Applause.)

The Chairman then introduced the orator of the day, the Hon. Robert Roberts, LL. D., Mayor of Burlington, Vermont, who delivered the following scholarly address:

Governor Dix, Members of the Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commissions, Ladies and Gentlemen: This memorial having been presented and received with due ceremony, it would seem that the purpose for which we are assembled had[143] been accomplished and that a motion to adjourn would be in order. But a programme, like a table of contents, is a tyrannous thing, and if a place therein is marked for an address it must be filled.

Copyrighted and by the courtesy of the Powers Engraving Co. of New York

Adjutant-General Verbeck, Count and Countess de Peretti de la Rocca and Commissioner Howland Pell

I suppose this to be the last but one of the events connected with the Champlain Tercentenary. During the celebration, in 1909, as appears from the admirable and voluminous Report of the Commission, the dramatic history of this lake and its borderlands has been unfolded and illustrated in full detail by antiquarians, men of letters, orators, statesmen, poets, and prelates. Among the many representative speakers from official life were the President of the United States, the Ambassador from England, the Ambassador from France, certain high officials from the Dominion of Canada, the Governor of New York, a United States Senator from New York, the Governor of Vermont, and the Congressmen from that State. It may, therefore, be assumed, and the fact is, that those of us who speak to-day may not be harvesters but only gleaners in this fruitful field of local history and there is little left to garner for your store.

But shall we leave this stern and rock-bound structure to stand cold and stark and chained to a thankless service in shedding abroad its light for the warning and comfort of men without some simple rite of baptism? Shall we abandon this sweetly serious embodiment of French womanhood to face, unveiled, the tempest, the heat of summer and the frost of winter without a word of benediction and without some act of homage which is her due and which she is wont to receive from the gallant men of her own blood? It is true, she is well able to face undaunted the buffeting of hostile circumstance. Such has been her fate for centuries. In coarse apparel she has tilled the fields and kept her house, and by the proceeds of her thrift has ransomed a nation. She has seen visions, and under the inspiration of heavenly voices, and clad in mail, she has led armies and raised the siege of a city. She has fought behind barricades, and with heroic dignity has bared her fair throat to the guillotine. With gaiety unquenched, she has starved through the investment of her beloved Paris. Through sore privation she has won a name in art, in science, and in letters. She embodies the just combination of qualities which make for fineness, elasticity, strength, health and long life. So, with hands upon our hearts—to La Belle France, salutation and blessing! May she, joined together with her strong protectors, the great explorer, his man-at-arms and his Indian guide, long remain to figure forth the beautiful in art in this setting of the beautiful in nature.

The historical incidents which I may touch upon are such as occurred in the neighborhood of Crown Point and Ticonderoga and the fortresses which guarded the southern gateway of the lake.

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It is generally agreed that Champlain and his allies fought their first battle against the Iroquois somewhere in this vicinity. From his naïve story of the encounter it appears that primitive man dearly loves to bandy words and to fight. As the Homeric heroes, when face to face in combat, interchanged long and high sounding speeches before falling to, so did the rival war parties in 1609. Champlain’s account says that when his men “were armed and in array, they sent two canoes, set apart from the others, to learn from their enemies if they wanted to fight. They replied that they wanted nothing else but that; at the moment there was not much light and they must wait for the daylight to recognize each other, and that as soon as the sun rose they would open the battle. This was accepted by our men; and while we waited, the whole night was passed in dances and songs, as much on one side as on the other, with endless insults and other talk, such as the little courage we had, our feeble men and inability to make resistance against their arms, and that when we came we should find it to our ruin. Our men were also not lacking in retort, telling them that they should see such power of arms as never before, and amid such other talk as is customary in the siege of a city.” Champlain, at the head of his men, fired the first shot with his arquebuse and killed two of the chiefs, mortally wounding a third. The writer evidently thought his account of the marvellous efficacy of his weapon of precision needed explanation, and adds that he loaded with four bullets. It would be fair to expect that one bullet would go wild.

It would be interesting if we could have the story of this fight from the Iroquois point of view. What impression did the outlandish pale-faces make upon the defending band of aborigines? What was their judgment as to the ethics of the invasion into their territory? We can well picture their demoralization upon the sudden killing of their three chiefs. But can sophisticated imagination fully grasp the degree of terror inspired by the bang of the guns of the explorers which broke the silence of the forest primeval? What do we know of that awful stillness? The Indian moved with catlike tread. The dip of his paddle made but a ripple. His arrow sped to its mark without sound. The life and death struggle for the survival of the fittest in the natural world went on about him in a silence broken only by the stifled squeak of a victim or the crunching of bones. The show of force in animate nature following patient waiting and reserve was swift and terrific, but silent—the swoop of the eagle upon its prey, the spring of the panther, the strike of the adder. The music of the denizens of the wilderness depended for its quality upon the general absence of sound above that of the waterfall or the rustling of leaves. Its various elemental strains—the hoot of the owl, the yell of the loon, the miaul of the panther, the redman’s love call, war cry and death song—all[145] soared high above the symphony of inanimate nature. One modern political convention makes more noise in a day than the Indian ever heard through the centuries. Thrice and four times happy Iroquois!

For a century more or less after the discovery of the lake, there were bloody forays, without decisive results, back and forth between the French and Algonquins on the North and the English and Iroquois on the South.

In 1731 the French fortified a post here at Crown Point and called it Fort Frédéric. This was only a small stockade designed to accommodate thirty men. It gave place to a fortress large enough for 120 men, and in 1742 it was enlarged and strengthened, being then, with the exception of Quebec, the strongest French fortress in America. And under the protection of this fortress was the largest of the early settlements. Another small fort was constructed at Chimney Point opposite here, and about it groups of home seekers were gathered. All settlements in this neighborhood disappeared as soon as the French soldiers withdrew from Lake Champlain.

War was not formally declared between Great Britain and France until 1756. In that year was completed Fort Carillon (at Ticonderoga), about 200 men being employed in its construction. In 1759, in face of siege operations by Lord Amherst, the French abandoned the fort, retired to Fort Frédéric, evacuated and blew up this fort and retired to Canada. Thus, after a full century and a half of more or less interrupted control, French supremacy passed from Lake Champlain.

Here, at Crown Point, Amherst thereupon constructed at enormous expense a new fortress, the principal function of which has been to make a picturesque ruin and a pleasant picnic ground for the people of the present day.

The blood-soaked slopes of this great waterway were hardly dry before the war between Great Britain and her American colonies broke out and these strategic points on the lake, which were vital as buttresses against invasion by French and Indians from Canada, became equally so to the colonists for safeguarding the valley from British occupation.

Crown Point and Ticonderoga again became the center of interest and activity. The local patriots determined to seize Fort Ticonderoga and learned that the Green Mountain Boys were, as they expressed it, “the proper persons to do the job.” The story of the surprise and capture of the fort by Ethan Allen and his party of eighty-three men is authentic. The verbal form of his command to surrender “in the name of the Great Jehovah and the Continental Congress” has been questioned, but it is quite in the style of his other sayings and his writings. Listen to his address to his little band before the attack:

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“Friends and fellow soldiers, you have for a number of years past been a scourge and terror to arbitrary powers. Your valor has been famed abroad and acknowledged, as appears by the advice and orders to me from the General Assembly of Connecticut to surprise and take the garrison now before us. I now propose to advance before you, and, in person, conduct you through the wicket gate; for this morning either we quit our pretensions to valor or possess ourselves of this fortress in a few minutes; and inasmuch as it is a desperate attempt, which none but the bravest of men dare undertake, I do not urge it on any contrary to his will. You that will undertake, voluntarily, poise your firelocks!”

Allen was a primitive man, a pioneer and land speculator. Like the Homeric heroes and the Iroquois and Algonquin chiefs, he indulged in high and mighty talk before the attack. In his day and among his people the accomplishment of formal speech and writing was not common and lent distinction to its possessor, and Allen was a man to let his light shine in this direction.

Ticonderoga witnessed the first lowering of His Majesty’s colors in the War for Independence. Allen says of this occasion: “The sun seemed to rise that morning with a superior lustre and Ticonderoga and all its defenders smiled on its conquerors who tossed about the flowing bowl and wished success to Congress and the liberty and freedom of America.”

Shortly after, Seth Warner and his men captured the small garrison here at Crown Point together with 200 pieces of cannon.

In the struggle for supremacy of the Lake Champlain district men fought not only for the glory of France and her religion, the glory of England and the spread of her institutions, the independence of the Colonies and the abrogation of unjust taxes, but also, and chiefly, as settlers, for the protection of their homes and the validity of their land titles. They struggled, nevertheless, blindly, as all men do, and were the instruments of forces and the larger design of which they could have no vision. Notwithstanding her courage, superior leadership and organization, France was defeated because, as has been said, “a new nation had arrived too great in numbers, in extent of territory, in strength of independent, individual character to be overwhelmed.”

A nation may be the loser in the game of war, but a great race can hardly be subjugated or rubbed out. Quebec was taken, but the Province of Quebec is French, and New England, through immigration, is slowly becoming New France. Scotland and Ireland were conquered long ago, but the Scotch and Irish are conspicuously present with us to-day. It has been easy for the western Powers to blow up the forts of China and gain concessions, and the Chinese smile, seemingly acquiesce, and kotow, but in all things essential to themselves they yield nothing[147] but go their own way. A few Chinese boys trained in American colleges have exerted a greater influence upon China than all the gunpowder ever manufactured could do.

It would seem that there are forces visibly at work that make for peace, and this in spite of the bloody history of man and the huge armaments which may mean the fear of war rather than the love of it. Possibly it was from a willingness or even a desire to move in harmony with such forces that Great Britain, France, the Dominion of Canada and the United States of America found that without effort or affectation they could find in the Champlain Tercentenary an occasion for the interchange of words of pleasantness along the paths of international peace.

In the future, then, let celebrants of the Tercentenary events settle all their differences by a joint meeting by the sweet waters of Lake Champlain.

Men draw from the pages of history different conclusions, for they read with different eyes. Although we are familiar with the fact and the doctrine of the spread of civilization through violence, yet in the concomitants of war, its pomps and trappings, its glory and shame, its burnings and killings, its famine and pestilence, its bickerings and jealousies, its graft and greed and sordidness, its futility to effect its original purpose or to accomplish the greatest good, and more particularly in the nature of men and things, may there not be some among us who find warrant for the beatitude, “Blessed are the meek for they shall inherit the earth.” (Applause.)

The ceremonies concluded with the following:

Benediction by Rev. J. W. Dwyer, of Ludlow, Vt.

O God, from whom are holy desires, right counsels and just works, give unto Thy servants that peace which Thou hast told us the world cannot give; that our hearts being given to the keeping of Thy commandments and the fear of enemies being removed, our days, by Thy protection, may be peaceful.

May the blessings of Almighty God, Father, Son and Holy Ghost descend upon all here assembled, upon all whom we represent, and abide with us forever. Amen.

The large assemblage, including many distinguished citizens from Vermont, then dispersed to their several homes, except the Commissioners and their guests, who boarded the “Ticonderoga” for Plattsburgh and intermediate ports.


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IV. SAIL DOWN THE LAKE TO BLUFF POINT

The first stop was at Port Henry, one of the five gateways to the Adirondacks and one of the large iron-ore ports of the country. This picturesque village, nestling under the foothills of the Adirondacks, the home of Commissioner Walter C. Witherbee and Hon. Frank S. Witherbee, overlooks the lake, the Champlain Memorial Lighthouse and historical Chimney Point on the Vermont shore. In this town is located the principal office of Witherbee, Sherman & Company, extensive iron producers and donors to the State of New York of the lands on which are situated the Crown Point Forts. It has a public library and other public buildings, churches, etc. The steamer then proceeded northward past Westport and Essex, attractive summer resorts on the west shore of the lake and also past Thompson’s Point, Cedar Beach and other resorts on the east shore of the lake to Burlington, which rises above the blue waters of the lake in some such manner as does Naples above the blue Mediterranean. It has its beautiful semicircular bay with its two arms, projecting far out into the lake, similar to the beautiful bay of Naples with its Sorrento and Posilipo, projecting far out into the sea. It has its University, as has Naples, which has been a center of learning and culture for many years. It rises less precipitously and with more uniform gradation from the margin of the lake to the college campus, where the University buildings crown the summit as does the castle of St. Elmo the city of Naples. Its streets and avenues are broader and better shaded than are those of Naples, but it has many points of resemblance, which are suggestive of that rare Neapolitan fascination not found elsewhere. Instead of the active and ever-threatening Vesuvius, there rises in the background superbly beautiful Mt. Mansfield silhouetted against the deep blue eastern sky. The commanding view from the elevation of the University of Vermont to the eastward and especially to the westward across the lake toward the rugged Adirondacks, rising precipitously from the water’s edge to the sky line, is such as to enable one to survey the width as well as something of the length[152] of the valley and appreciate its pictorial grandeur. As the sun gilds the sky-pointing peaks and fills the valleys with rosy light, except where drifting clouds cast their shadows athwart the mountain ranges and as the placid waters of the lake reflect the overarching azure sky, in an atmosphere—the clarity of which like that on the summit of Salvatore accentuates nature’s beauties,—one is reminded that the Champlain valley presents many views worthy the brush of a Turner, a Corot or a Cormon. In the poem on “Lake Champlain” by S. S. Cutting, D. D., will be found the following:

Oh matchless splendors! never sung nor told,
Now golden purple, now empurpled gold!
O’er mount and plain the heavens their tints diffuse
And tinge the waves with iridescent hues.
And now, when slowly fades departing day,
The moon, full-orbed, walks her celestial way,
And bathing all things in her silver light,
Prolongs the beauty through the slumbering night.

The “Ticonderoga” pointed westward north of the Four Brothers, where Edward Hatch, Jr., of Lord & Taylor of New York City maintains a hatchery for breeding and rearing lake gulls and also easterly of Port Kent, one of the gateways to the Adirondacks. On the right were seen some of the beautiful islands described by Samuel Champlain. One of these was for many years the abode of that sweet bard of Grand Isle County, Vt., the Rev. Orville G. Wheeler, who once sang in this wise:

Vermont, thy mountain breezes erst have fanned
The brow of warrior bold, of statesman sage,
And yet the poet’s mystic waving wand
Will charm to life thy bright historic page;
Ah such will live, the good, the great, the brave,
Will live in grateful hearts, if not in song,
Their hallowed deeds will never find a grave,
Although unsung their fame may slumber long.

The steamer passed Valcour, where occurred one of the principal naval engagements of the Revolution, in which Benedict Arnold distinguished[153] himself for his daring and for his adroit escape in the night from the enemy. The Commissioners and their guests were landed at Bluff Point and took rooms in the new Hotel Champlain, which was built on the site of the former Hotel Champlain, burned in the winter of 1910. Its commodious apartments, broad verandas and commanding outlook over Cumberland Bay and the lake were admiringly appreciated after the strenuous day’s exercises at Crown Point Forts and the ride down the lake.

CHAMPLAIN HOTEL, BLUFF POINT, JULY 6, 1912.

The rosy-fingered dawn was eloquent with the loud, rich, skilfully modulated song of the thrasher and the melody of the many birds that frequent the tree-clad slopes along the shores of the lake. Nature has with profusion bestowed her inexhaustible wealth of beauty in and about Lake Champlain. The site of the new hotel at Bluff Point is one of the places where this may be seen to advantage. As one gazes on the blue waters of the lake, with its picturesque islands, stretching far away toward the Vermont shores and over to the sloping hillsides that lead up to the majestic Green Mountains in the distance and then to the towering Adirondacks that wall in the lake on the west, he is quite apt to compare the scene with that unfolded to the tourist, who looks out from Locarno on the expanse of the blue waters of Lago Maggiore with its charming islands and the encircling mountains, crowned with villas and historic castles, “a perfect efflorescence of loveliness.” The grandeur and sublimity of the Alpine scene is to some extent compensated for by the broader expanse of undulating waters, the larger sweep of productive valleys and verdant slopes, “set with the homes of men,” breathing the air of freedom, whose heritage is liberty under law.

Amid such scenes the words of William Watson occur to one,

“      *       *       *       *       *       *
Beauty, whose voice is earth and sea and air,
        *       *       *       *       *       *
Who reigneth, and her throne is everywhere.”

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V. CALL AT THE SUMMER SCHOOL, REVIEW OF THE FIFTH INFANTRY REGIMENT, U. S. A., AT PLATTSBURGH BARRACKS, TOUR OF THE CITY, RECEPTION GIVEN BY THE HON. SMITH M. WEED AND LUNCHEON AT THE FOUQUET HOUSE

The morning hours quickly passed and the Champlain Commissioners and their guests were waited upon by a delegation of citizens of Plattsburgh.

The Commissioners, Governor Dix, Count de Peretti de la Rocca, and other guests left the Hotel Champlain in automobiles at 10 o’clock, under the escort of the Reception Committee of the Chamber of Commerce of Plattsburgh, headed by Mayor Andrew G. Senecal. They were driven to the Catholic Summer School at Cliff Haven, where they were formally received by Rev. Father D. J. Hickey, President of the Summer School, who delivered the following address:

Your Excellency: In the name of the trustees and patrons of the Catholic Summer School of America I welcome you to Cliff Haven. Through eighteen years of the twenty-one years of existence of this school we have been honored and inspired by the visits of all the Presidents of the country from the lamented President McKinley to the present President Taft. Through these years we have been also visited by every Governor of the Empire State, and it has been our happy privilege to extend to them the best reception possible. While we welcomed the Chief Executives of our country with joy, it has always been our supreme pleasure to welcome the Governors of our own state, as our school is under the charge of the State Board of Regents over which you preside. We have found in their visits an inspiration and encouragement in our educational work.

Your Excellency, I regret that your visit could not have been later. This is the first week of our summer session, and instead of hundreds, thousands would have joined in this reception. The scope of our work is high and broad. We[158] have the best lecturers we can secure to bring before us in a learned and sound manner all that we should know in the domain of History, Literature, Art, Science, Political Economy and the leading social questions. Last year 3,500 visited the school during its session. Thirty-seven states were represented among its guests; so you see, the school and its work are well known and appreciated throughout our land. We combine here at Cliff Haven, the intellectual and the social in a high degree, and the intellectual and social are both protected and permeated by a religious spirit unobtrusive but all-pervading.

Whatever promotes the well-being and uplift of the citizens of this country, and especially of this great Empire State over which you preside; whatever goes to make an enlightened and safe people; whatever promotes, protects and preserves the sound principles of the founders of our great Republic, must be dear to your Excellency and deserve your inspiration. This we all feel to-day in your presence here, in spite of your many laborious and pressing duties. While I invited you, I feel that your presence to-day is due to the persuasive eloquence of one of our trustees, Judge John B. Riley, who is also a member of the Champlain Tercentenary Commission.

In the name of the trustees and patrons of the Catholic Summer School of America I again welcome you to Cliff Haven. (Applause.)

Appropriate response was made thereto by his Excellency, Gov. John A. Dix.

The party was then driven to the Plattsburgh Barracks, where the Fifth Infantry, U. S. A., on dress parade, under command of Col. Calvin D. Cowles, was reviewed, and the cannon thundered forth salutes in honor of the Governor and of Count de Peretti de la Rocca, of the French Embassy at Washington. It was an imposing sight and a reminder of the brilliant review of the same and other regiments and the Canadian troops, on the same parade grounds, by President William H. Taft, Ambassador Jusserand, Ambassador Bryce and Governors Hughes and Prouty, July 7, 1909.

Copyrighted and by the courtesy of the Powers Engraving Co. of New York

Parade in Plattsburgh, N. Y., July 6, 1912, escorted by the Fifth Infantry, U. S. A.

Copyrighted and by the courtesy of the Powers Engraving Co. of New York

Gov. Dix, Lieut.-Gov. Conway, Col. Cowles, Chairman Knapp and Commissioner John B. Riley

Thereafter, a tour was made of the city, in which the party was shown the graves of Captain George Downie and other British officers, who had fallen in the battle of Plattsburgh. The Commissioners and other guests were then formally received in the beautiful home of the Hon. Smith M. Weed, on Cumberland avenue, which is situate near the Champlain Memorial. Mr. and Mrs. George S. Weed assisted in the[159] reception of the distinguished guests. The guests were interested in seeing in Mr. Weed’s library the noted painting of “The Battle of Lake Champlain,” by Julian Oliver Davidson, a copy of which may be seen in the original Report of this Commission.

At the close of the reception, the Commissioners and guests were given a luncheon under the auspices of the Chamber of Commerce, at the Fouquet House, which stands on the site of the old Stage House occupied by Major-Gen. Benjamin Mooers, of Revolutionary military fame, who commanded the militia in the land engagement at the Battle of Plattsburgh. Judge and Commissioner John B. Riley presided and extended to the Commissioners and to the guests a hearty welcome. At the conclusion of the luncheon, the Commissioners and their guests were escorted by a platoon of mounted police, the entire Fifth Infantry, U. S. A., under command of Col. Cowles and staff, through the principal streets, whose buildings were beautifully decorated. Following the fifty automobiles containing the party were the Guard of Honor of the Society of St. Jean Baptiste, and the Horicon, Rescue and Lafayette Hose Companies. They proceeded to the site of the Champlain Memorial statue, where a platform for the speakers and guests had been erected, decorated with white and blue and the fleur-de-lis of France. Seats had also been provided for the general public.

GOVERNOR JOHN A. DIX

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VI. DEDICATORY CEREMONIES OF THE CHAMPLAIN MEMORIAL STATUE AT PLATTSBURGH, N. Y., JULY 6, 1912

The dedicatory ceremonies, over which Chairman H. Wallace Knapp presided, were opened with music by the Fifth Infantry, U. S. A. Band. The Invocation was pronounced by Rev. H. P. LeF. Grabau, Rector of the Episcopal Church of Plattsburgh.

The Champlain memorial was then unveiled by Miss Katharine M. Booth, daughter of Judge and Commissioner John H. Booth of Plattsburgh, as “The Star Spangled Banner” was being played by the band. As the Stars and Stripes were drawn from the statue and it was revealed to view, a shout of applause broke forth from the enthusiastic assembly. Then followed a salute fired by the Fifth Infantry of the U. S. A.

The Commissioners had the memorial draped with the historic flag owned by Dr. George F. Kunz of New York City, President of the Scenic and Historic Preservation Society of New York, which had been offered for the occasion and accepted. That flag had flown from the top of the Eiffel Tower in Paris on July 4, 1900, when the Lafayette statue by Paul Bartlett was presented by the school children of America to the French nation. It was also used at the dedication of Stony Point Park on the Hudson, and on the funeral train when the remains of Governor Clinton were transferred from New York to Kingston.

Senator H. Wallace Knapp, Chairman of the New York Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission, then delivered the following address:

Your Excellency, Governor Dix, Ladies and Gentlemen: We are assembled on an historical spot that may properly lay claim to official recognition, for associations connected with the progress of humanity in the Champlain Valley and this vicinity are especially to be distinguished for the important events that are known to have proceeded from the subject that we are here to recall.

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The battles of Valcour and Plattsburgh, and the maintenance here of a permanent military post, are vitally connected with conditions attending the passing through the lake of the first white man.

The patriotic spirit has never slumbered here. The sons of this county and of the city of Plattsburgh who have dedicated their lives to the service of their country, in the army and navy and in civic councils form a long roll of distinguished honor. They have upheld the integrity of their country in every quarter of the globe, and their deeds are glowing on the pages of history. And this public service has been continuous since the first settlement here. This record has not been interrupted. Here surely, then, our Memorial may be safely entrusted to fulfill its purpose and we may leave it here, as in its long appointed home, telling to the future, with voiceless eloquence, the meaning of the scene that appears before us.

For when we have gone away there will appear in the ensuing quiet a significance here that can hardly be discerned through the sounds and the pageantry of the present hour. Now we look upon the brave soldier, the intrepid sailor, the grand discoverer, the wise administrator, the successful courtier, and the gallant friend of kings. But when we are here alone and undistracted we shall recognize a deeper and more abiding import. We shall recall his unfailing goodness of heart, his helpful and untiring care for his associates, his generous mercy to the traitor, Vignan, his motto that the saving of one soul was more worthy of endeavor than the conquest of an empire. We shall know Champlain as the devoted lover of his fellow-man, and in this philosophy we shall find the basic motive of his career, and indeed I think it is for the charm of such qualities shining through virile manhood that we most love to remember him. The Spanish conquerors were strong and venturesome, but there is no gathering of many peoples to do honor to their memory; no songs are sung for Cortez and Pizarro.

Our Monument will always be an inspiring influence for good and as time goes on, piety and poesy and song will enrich the memory of our hero, and romance will cast a halo around his deeds. It is perhaps from such beginnings that all the great epics of the world have been developed, yet none of them, it is safe to say, have proceeded from a nobler basis of character and action.

We are inaugurating our Memorial under happy conditions. A century of peace between France, England, and America bespeaks a perpetuity of good will. Their representatives have taken part in all the important functions of the Tercentenary observances and they are here to-day with messages of cheer and friendship.

Copyrighted and by courtesy of Powers Engraving Co., N. Y. City

Miss KATHARINE M. BOOTH
Daughter of Hon. John H. Booth, Unveiling Champlain Memorial at Plattsburgh, July 6, 1912
Front View of Memorial and Granite Approach to Samuel Champlain at Plattsburgh

At Crown Point on May 3d of this year, Mr. Hanotaux, who led the French delegation entrusted with the presentation of the bust, “La France”, to the United States, remarked in his address:

A French delegation has come to seal upon the base of this magnificent monument[165] an image of France. It expresses well what we have wished to say; it will depict to you France, such as we Frenchmen conceive it, and as we love it. It is France as she wishes to be and as she is.

Perhaps it is not amiss to supplement this sentiment by pointing out that we have chosen as the historic genius of our lake, not an American, nor an Englishman, but a Frenchman, who represents to us France and the sons of France as we know them and as we wish them to be. He was for us the crowning exemplar of ideal chivalry, without fear and without reproach,—the first of many Frenchmen through whom we owe so much to France. But such a character belongs to the world. His representation here presides over the scenes of a great historic epoch that will never be repeated. Our house is no longer divided: England and America will never again contend upon the battlefield.

Samuel Champlain was called to his reward on Christmas day, the anniversary of the Prince of Peace and Good Will throughout the world. That peace is now assured us by the peoples who have gathered here, and as time goes on and the agencies of human happiness increase within our border, the silent form above us will tell His Master’s message with an eloquence that we in our day cannot hear so well. (Applause.)

I now take pleasure in presenting to you His Excellency, Gov. John A. Dix.

Governor Dix spoke as follows:

Admiring to-day this beautiful statue of Champlain, this splendid embodiment of genius and patriotism, it seems as if one were gazing upon it through the vista of a beautiful parkway. The statue, in all its edifying beauty, is here before us, and yet its influence and its meaning carry the mental eye adown three centuries of visualization of civilizing events—sad and happy, depressing and gladdening, horrible and glorious, all necessary in the foliage of the avenue of progress through which the mind perceives and tries to understand the character of the man whom we here honor.

Have you, in walking along the parkway of a city’s breathing-place or the lane of an arbored village, at the end of your line of vision, come upon a solitary figure—a monument, a great tree, the section of a home with a cupola upon it, or whatever it may be that by its height and loneliness interrupt and end the vista? Have you noticed that the width of the vista is seemingly greatest where you stand, and gradually diminishes until at the finishing point it is narrow, very narrow?

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As I view this product of man’s acknowledgment of his indebtedness to the past, and of man’s ability to express for the present and for the ages to come his conception of his obligation to heroes and pioneers, I seem to be looking from this statue down the vista of a parkway of the three centuries between Champlain and us.

On either side stand sublime events of history, with the sun of Hope and Faith shining above. Here and there trees shut off the sunshine, while others only serve to beautify and embroider that sunshine as it filters through their verdant branches. And all the while the roadway of civilization grows gradually from the narrowness of the past to the breadth and the warmth of the present.

This is the picture as it presents itself to my mind, of the historic event we celebrate and its true meaning.

We, of the more tolerant, more enlightened, and, I hope, happier world, of the year 1912, see in this statue the heroic figure of the intrepid explorer, who was the pioneer of civilization in this magnificent region of country. His was the narrower world, perhaps, but to him belongs the immortal fame of beginning the gradual broadening of the way which, through war and sacrifice, honor and glory, leads to our present proud position among the nations of the world.

Since the plan of this Tercentenary celebration of Champlain’s discovery was so well inaugurated and so well organized, tributes of the ablest orators, the greatest writers, and the foremost officials of state and nation, have been paid to the character and the achievements of Samuel Champlain. Words seem now almost superfluous, for what can be said that will add to the fullness and the beauty and the sincerity of the expressions of honor and appreciation which have been placed upon the enduring records of time.

Champlain truly typifies the chivalry, the intrepidity and the charm of the people of his time and country. The best tribute that has been paid to him, I think, was that of Hamilton W. Mabie, and with Mr. Mabie’s words I will close: “A gentleman by birth and training, calm in danger, resourceful and swift in action, strict in discipline, but always just and kind.” (Applause.)

Copyrighted and by the courtesy of Powers Engraving Co. of New York

Gov. John A. Dix speaking at the Champlain Memorial at Plattsburgh, July 6, 1912

Gov. John A. Mead of Vermont was officially represented by the Adjutant-General of that State, Col. Lee S. Tillotson of St. Albans, who was introduced and delivered the following address:

Mr. Chairman, Your Excellency, Ladies and Gentlemen: My position here to-day reminds me of the story of the old colored gentleman who was being prosecuted for the usual misdemeanor of stealing chickens. When his case was called, the judge, who knew the culprit, looking down into the prisoner’s box where he was seated, said: “Uncle Rastus, are you the respondent in this case?” “No, yo’[167] honah,” said Uncle Rastus, “I’se not de respondent, I’se got a lawyer here who is goin’ to do all de respondin’ fo’ me; I’se de ge’man who done stole de chickens.” In this case, I am the respondent. The gentleman whom you invited and expected to be present to-day has not stolen any chickens, but he is, unfortunately for you and for him, detained at home by a slight attack of rheumatism, and when I tell you that it was contracted while attending as a delegate the recent national Republican convention at Chicago, you will not be surprised to learn that his malady is inflammatory in its nature. But I want to tell you that Governor Mead is not tying up his sore places with the red bandanna handkerchief. I don’t know how you feel over here, but we in Vermont do not think that the facts and events incident to the present presidential administration afford any man the right, constitutional or otherwise, to charge President Taft with fraudulent practices. I know that this is not the proper time nor place to talk politics, but, as you may have guessed, I am a Republican, and we Republicans don’t have much incentive to blow our political horns in Vermont, because everybody over there agrees with us, and the inspiration of this opportunity in Governor Dix’s jurisdiction was too strong to be resisted. However, I think we had better get on to a safer topic of discussion. (Laughter.)

I suppose that on this occasion I ought to talk about history, but I don’t know enough. I don’t even know whether the battle of Plattsburgh was a land engagement or an aerial contest. The weather is usually a reasonably safe topic, but the temperature here for the past few days has been so hot that it won’t admit of public comment. So I have decided to talk about the scenery. I think I have made a discovery. I have often wondered why it was that you New Yorkers were so much more successful in attracting summer visitors to your territory than we in Vermont. Since I have been over here I have discovered the reason. It is because of the magnificent scenery afforded you on this side of the lake of the Green Mountains of Vermont. You have been capitalizing our resources without our permission. Now you must even things up, and I want to tell you that your Adirondack Mountains appear to much better advantage, and are grander and more magnificent from the viewpoint of the Vermont shore than from anywhere else. If you don’t believe it, come over and see for yourselves. You will find in Vermont just as warm a welcome, just as comfortable hotels, just as good roads, and just as refreshing water,—and other things,—as anywhere else.

And now, Mr. Chairman, in closing, I wish to extend to you and the members of your Commission, the Governor’s regrets, and mine, that he was not able to be with you personally, and to thank you for the many courtesies which you have shown to my friends and myself on this occasion. (Applause.)

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Plattsburgh has many enterprising citizens and has had some liberal benefactors. In the latter class, the name of the Hon. Francis Lynde Stetson of New York City, a native of Clinton county and long-time resident of Plattsburgh, will be cherished in grateful remembrance for his many beneficent acts to that city. It was quite natural, therefore, that he accept the Champlain memorial in behalf of the city of Plattsburgh, which he did in the following touching address:

Governor Dix: Through the kind favor of the Mayor of the city of Plattsburgh and in his behalf, I take pleasure in accepting from you this fine gift of the State of New York, worthily set in this beautiful park provided by the liberality of the people of Plattsburgh. The location is ideal, overlooking the most attractive and the most famous bay of this lovely lake, which, unlike most North American waters, bears the name of the discoverer, bestowed by himself. To those here seeking for his monument, as in the case of Sir Christopher Wren, the answer during three centuries might well have been, “look about you.” But now in the fullness of time, the accumulating admiration of many generations has demanded and has found concrete expression in this beautiful memorial of the character, the constancy and the courage of Samuel Champlain, the Christian Explorer. This work of man’s hands cannot enhance his fame, but it can and will indicate to countless generations our capacity to appreciate his virtue.

To carry abroad the gospel of his Lord and Master; to extend the influence and the prosperity of his beloved country; to replace savagery with orderly government and religious civilization, he crossed the Atlantic twenty times; he traced its western shore from Newfoundland to Cape Cod; he explored the Isthmus of Darien, and proposed to join the two oceans; he pierced the Laurentian forests, and discovered not only Champlain but also Nipissing and Huron; and he became the founder of New France. For more than a score of years he ruled in justice and equity, winning the hearts of his countrymen and the almost idolatrous affection of the savage tribes of Canada. His integrity was spotless, his sincerity unquestioned; and his piety was attested by his last will, devoting to religion his entire estate of about $1,000.

That we should give ourselves for others, for community and for country is supposed to be a call specially significant of the present hour. But three centuries since it was heard and was followed by Samuel Champlain at the sacrifice of much that most men deemed desirable. Luxurious ease at the royal court of Henri IV. he despised, and through unbroken forests led the way for civilization, thus answering the question of the Duke in “As You Like It”:

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“Are not these woods
More free from peril than the envious court?”

In the deep fastnesses of the forests he carried the cross as his amulet and sought the salvation of souls.

This day can show no higher type nor profess a nobler faith than his. This poor French boy of Brouage by three-score years of faithful duty proved that virtue is not the monopoly of any age or country or class; and that to help the world greatly forward no special calling is necessary. All that is needed is the faithful following of high ideals. Such was the accomplishment of Champlain and such, two centuries later, of the other great hero of these waters, the chivalrous and God-fearing Macdonough, soon to be honored by a monument on this shore.

It is well that this generation should make recognition of such lives, proving that love toward God and man and its constant expression in a consistent life are not incompatible with the development and exhibition of the most heroic and manly virtues.

But to limit our recognition to the raising of a monument were indeed an empty show. Those who without genuine and active sympathy would build the tombs of the prophets and garnish the sepulchres of the righteous were denounced by the Master as hypocrites.

Life service and not lip service is required of those who would perpetuate, and should emulate the virtues of Champlain.

This monument is erected to him and not through the pretext of his name to ourselves. But, in a sense it must imply a sympathetic appreciation by this generation and this community. Let the deed follow the profession. Self-sacrifice, integrity, devotion to duty, truth-telling, clean-living and love of God and man must be the aim of every man, woman and child who in heart and truth helps raise this monument. The aim I say, but, only by God’s help, the achievement, for to few are given the enduring fortitude and the prevailing persistence of Champlain and Macdonough.

That this monument shall stand and shall continue to stand a silent but effective monitor, teaching the men, the women, the boys and the girls of this valley to lead clean and helpful lives, and to leave behind them memories which shall encourage others so to live, is the hope in which this gift is accepted and will be preserved. (Applause.)

Ambassador J. J. Jusserand was unavoidably absent on a visit to the Republic from which he is accredited to this country. He was represented,[170] however, on this occasion by Count de Peretti de la Rocca, Chargé d’Affaires de France, at Washington. Count de Peretti de la Rocca was introduced and spoke as follows:

It is often said that America looks always to the future. The beautiful festivities at which we are assisting prove the contrary. Descendants of the pioneers of former times on this continent, which they opened up to civilization, you are continuing their work. Animated by their spirit of daring and activity, you are extending each day the field of their conquests, and you are reaping the fruits of the harvest of their deeds. But you like sometimes to stop your daily toil, to come and meditate before the rude cradle of your great nation.

To-day, pleasure boats sail on this beautiful lake, and its shady banks seem to have been intended always as a place of rest for tired city dwellers. It is not without some effort of imagination that we can now recall the rugged Champlain and his strange troop, sailing on the same lake in pursuit of the Iroquois. However, you wished that the tourists, who come here each year in thousands, surrounded by luxury and beauty, should be reminded of their first great predecessor. And you have raised up to Champlain this monument, which does honor both to the initiative of your Commissions and to the talents of your architects. You found that there was in the life of Champlain, as in those of the other French pioneers, of whom your historian, Parkman, so well wrote the lives, lessons which should not be lost. The example of their ingenuity, which nothing could rebut, of their energy, which nothing could daunt, of their faith, which never was discouraged, is still a lesson of confidence and optimism. Pessimistic persons might perhaps point out that these men failed to attain their ends. They traveled over this continent seeking a way to China, and that way did not exist. Anyway, they hoped that the countries which they discovered would become the possessions of their nation and of their King, and now the lilies of the French monarchy have been replaced by the Stars and Stripes of the American democracy. But these are only partial failures and their efforts were not in vain. China remained closed to them, but America and its treasures were opened to them. The vicissitudes of events have caused a change of nationality in the countries discovered by them, but I am sure they are content in their graves on account of celebrations of their memory such as that of to-day: on account also of the unalterable friendship which binds your nation to theirs and especially on account of the confident eagerness with which, inherited from them, you continue and complete their work.

Now, ladies and gentlemen, if you permit me I will add some words in my own language.

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Cela ne sera pas pour déplaire à mon grande compatriote Champlain. Je tiens à exprimer au Gouverneur Dix at au Chairman Knapp tous mes remerciements pour la manière si flatteuse at si affectueuse dont ils ont parlé de mon pays. Je veux vous dire à tous combien je suis heureux et reconnaissant que le souvenir de la France ait été si intimement associé à ces belles cérémonies.

Enfin j’ajouterai combien j’ai été touché par l’aimable accueil que nous a réservé la cité de Plattsburgh dont la beauté des paysages, le pittoresque des rues et des maisons, le charme des habitants m’ont tout spécialement frappé. Aussi est-ce du fond de coeur que je forme les voeux les plus ardents pour la continuation de sa prospérité.

The address was enthusiastically received.

The Hon. John A. Stewart of New York was the next speaker and in the course of his address, which was extempore and therefore unreported except in substance, he said:

From Champlain’s day we have grown into the most potential nation in the world, but let us thank God that mere power is not the measure of a nation’s greatness. We have become the richest nation in the world, but every day of our existence we should give thanks to the Almighty that our standing among the nations rests upon another basis than the mere possession of great wealth. We are the most populous among the nations of advanced civilization, but we should thank God that the gauge of our power and our greatness does not lie merely in superiority in point of numbers. A nation like the individual is great only to the degree of the possession of the homely virtues, the virtues of the home and fireside, of contentment and the peace and satisfaction which come from honest toil, from the day’s tasks done in the proper spirit of thankfulness for all the blessings which have come from advantages given by a prodigal nature. The prophetic vision of Champlain which saw occupying the North American continent a great and a mighty people has been realized. It is to men of Champlain’s blood that we owe the searching out and the discovery of the fertility of this great land and its adaptation for the uses of mankind. To those of his own race, who have succeeded him, we Americans are tied by the bond of a common destiny. Though separated politically, Canada, which is the heritage of Champlain, and this beautiful north country which is equally his heritage and one of the most beautiful parts of the great Republic, stand shoulder to shoulder in the working out of a common fate; for no danger can menace the one without the other sharing in that danger and no great national blessing can come to the one without that same blessing working[172] its benefit to the other. Blessed is the land and blessed the people where the homely virtues are still inculcated, where that admonition of the Almighty is regarded not merely as an article of faith, but as a precept to be followed, “Honor thy father and thy mother that thy days may be long in the land which the Lord thy God giveth thee,” for of such is the land which Champlain found and the people which bless him as the great discoverer. (Applause.)

The last speaker was the Hon. Job E. Hedges of New York City, whose address sparkled with wit and kept the audience in a ripple of laughter. It was also extempore. In the course of his address he said:

The specific things Champlain did are not so important as his motive. He was an epoch in history. It falls to few men to be greater than their generation. If we are to draw a lesson at this time, it is that physical courage unbacked by moral effort is futile. It is very easy to be good rhetorically. I believe in the efficacy of prayer, but it is possible to remain on your knees so long that you overlook a neighbor’s distress.

It is better to try and fail than not to endeavor. Champlain never felt that he was called—he just went. He never worried about prosperity. He framed his opinions without asking himself whether he was in the majority or not. It is better to practice one commandment and forget the other nine than have all of them committed to memory as a rhetorical exercise.

It is a great thing to have a man’s memory remain 300 years without tarnish—or even 300 days without it. It is a wonderful thing to be great and not know it. Champlain could have closed his eyes forever at the end of any twenty-four hours of his life and have said, “I have done the best I could.” (Applause.)

Benediction was then pronounced by the Rt. Rev. Monsignor M. J. Lavelle, Vicar General of New York, as follows:

Father of Bounty from Whom all blessings flow, we thank Thee from the inmost recesses of our souls for the blessings bestowed upon our country and the human race, through the courage and self-sacrifice of Samuel Champlain. This monument dedicated to his memory to-day, is a token, primarily, of our gratitude to Thee for the favors Thou hast granted us through Thy servant. Teach us all to be like him, intrepid in danger, indomitable in trial, undismayed in failure and unspoiled in success. May everyone who has participated in the erection and dedication of this monument have the grace to direct his own life in the way of[173] happiness and virtue, and also to be a source of benediction unto generations yet unborn.

We pray Thee, O Father of Might, Wisdom and Justice, through Whom alone authority is rightfully administered, laws enacted and judgment decreed, assist with Thy Holy Spirit of Counsel and Fortitude, the President of these United States, that his administration may be eminently useful to Thy people over whom he presides, by the encouragement of virtue and religion, by wise enforcement of the laws in justice and in mercy, and by repressing vice and immorality. Let the Light of Thy Divine Wisdom shine upon the deliberations of Congress, and manifest itself in all the laws framed for our government, that these regulations may tend to the preservation of peace, the extension of National prosperity, the increase of industry, sobriety and useful knowledge, and may perpetuate amongst us the boon of equal liberty.

We pray also for the Governors of these two states, for the members of the Legislatures, for all judges and magistrates and other officials appointed to guard our political welfare. Aid them with Thy guiding hand, that they may be able to discharge the duties of their several offices with honesty and ability.

We pray also for all our brethren and fellow-citizens throughout the United States, that they may be blessed in the knowledge, and sanctified in the performance of Thy Holy Will. Preserve us in unity, and in that peace which the world cannot give. And after having tasted Thy bounty here below, may we be admitted to the joys that are eternal.


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Part Three

CONCLUSION


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I. FEDERAL CO-OPERATION AND ASSISTANCE RENDERED BY SENATORS OF THE UNITED STATES, REPRESENTATIVES IN CONGRESS AND OTHERS.

This record would be incomplete without reference to the active co-operation of the Government of the United States in authorizing formal invitations to be extended through the Department of State to the Republic of France and the Kingdom of Great Britain including the Dominion of Canada to be officially represented at the Tercentenary Celebration and in making ample appropriation for the entertainment of the foreign guests and of the President, Vice-President and other officials of the United States; and without formal acknowledgment in appreciation of the activities and assistance rendered by Vice-President James S. Sherman, whose grandfather was a navigator of Lake Champlain, and by the Senators of New York and Vermont and other states in the Senate of the United States and by the Representatives from those states in Congress. The New York and Vermont members of the Committee on Foreign Affairs, namely, Hon. James Breck Perkins, a writer on French history; Hon. David J. Foster, Hon. Jacob Sloat Fassett and Hon. Francis Burton Harrison, all forceful and influential Representatives, assisted by Hon. John J. Fitzgerald, Hon. Edward B. Vreeland, Hon. George R. Malby, Hon. James S. Sherman, Hon. Michael E. Driscoll, Hon. John W. Dwight, Hon. William H. Draper, Hon. George N. Southwick, Hon. William Sulzer, Hon. William S. Bennet, Hon. Jacob Van Vechten Olcott, Hon. Peter A. Porter, Hon. De Alva S. Alexander, and other Representatives of New York, and Hon. Kittredge Haskins of Vermont, were zealous in their support of the project from its inception. On February 16, 1909, Representative Foster of Vermont from the Committee on Foreign Affairs reported the following Joint Resolution favorably to the House, viz.:

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Joint resolution (H. J. Res. 257) to authorize the Secretary of State to invite the Governments of France and Great Britain to participate in the proposed tercentenary celebration of the discovery of Lake Champlain by Samuel de Champlain.

Whereas, The States of New York and Vermont, by legislation and appropriation, have authorized the celebration of the three hundredth anniversary of the discovery of Lake Champlain by Samuel de Champlain; and

Whereas, The date of the said celebration has been fixed for the first week in July, 1909; Therefore be it

Resolved, etc., That the Secretary of State be, and he is hereby, authorized and requested to extend to the Governments of France and Great Britain an invitation to be present at and to participate in the proposed celebration during the first week of July, 1909, to commemorate the three hundredth anniversary of the discovery of Lake Champlain by Samuel de Champlain.

When said resolution was reached on the House Calendar on February 17th, Mr. Foster said:

Mr. Speaker, there is very little to be said by the way of explanation of this resolution. A very full report accompanies it explaining fully the significance of the proposed celebration. As indicated in the preamble, both the States of New York and Vermont have appropriated money for this celebration, which will occur during the first week of next July. While these two states have taken the initiative, the occasion will be one of national significance. We are already assured that the President of the United States will be present and participate in the exercises. And the occasion will be one of international importance. For this reason it is desired that authority be given the State Department to extend an invitation to the two nations most intimately associated with the United States in the historic event which this celebration will commemorate. It was a son of France who discovered the beautiful body of water that bears his name. Canada, that loyal dominion of Great Britain, borders upon the lake. It is peculiarly desirable, therefore, that an invitation be extended to the Governments of France and Great Britain to participate in the celebration.

The Joint Resolution after a brief discussion was thereupon unanimously passed.

The Report of the House Committee on Foreign Affairs was printed in full in the Congressional Record of March 3, 1909, in the form in which it was adopted and appears in the Appendix of this Report. (See[181] Congressional Record 60th Congress, Second Session, pp. 2531, 2582 and 3770.)

Speaker Joseph G. Cannon, Representative James A. Tawney of Minnesota, Chairman of Committee on Appropriations and other members of the House from states not in direct touch with the undertaking gave it their support.

The Joint Resolution was favorably reported through Senator Henry Cabot Lodge from the Committee on Foreign Relations of the Senate on February 24, 1909, and on motion of Senator Chauncey M. Depew it was passed. (See Congressional Record 60th Congress, Second Session, p. 2987.)

Senator Thomas C. Platt of New York and Senators William P. Dillingham and Carroll S. Page of Vermont also gave this and other matters pertaining to the celebration such consideration as was necessary to ensure Federal co-operation. The Joint Resolution was approved by President Roosevelt on March 2, 1909. (See Congressional Record 60th Congress Second Session, p. 3666.)

In this connection it will be remembered that Senator Redfield Proctor of Vermont and the Honorable Elihu Root, while Secretary of State had presented the matter at a late day in a prior session of Congress and had in a measure prepared the way for favorable action in 1909. Senator Proctor took deep interest in the project, but to the great regret of his many friends he did not live to see it carried to completion. His death occurred in Washington, D. C., March 4, 1908.

His son, the Honorable Fletcher D. Proctor, while Governor of Vermont in 1906, had approved the original Concurrent Resolution, introduced in the House of Representatives of Vermont in November of that year by Hon. Robert W. McCuen of Vergennes, providing for the appointment of a Commission to confer with several Commissions to be appointed in New York and in Canada to arrange for a celebration of the Three Hundredth Anniversary of the Discovery of Lake Champlain.

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From that time on Senator Redfield Proctor and Governor Fletcher D. Proctor of Vermont gave the matter their official and strong personal support as long as they lived.

Congressmen George R. Malby and David J. Foster were untiring in their efforts to insure Federal co-operation, as was Honorable Elihu Root, both as Secretary of State and as United States Senator, whose masterly address at Plattsburgh on July 7, 1909, is a contribution to the history of the Iroquois Confederacy.

The untimely deaths of Governor Fletcher D. Proctor, of Congressmen David J. Foster and George R. Malby before the Champlain memorials were dedicated and the work of the Commissions completed, to whose success they had all materially contributed, were deeply deplored. The loss of Professor Walter E. Howard of the Vermont Commission and of Assemblyman Alonson T. Dominy of New York Commission, both of whom were desirous of co-operation in the work of their respective Commissions, was keenly felt by their colleagues.

Senators John Raines and Thomas F. Grady of New York, who were majority and minority leaders of the Senate when the project was given legislative sanction, did not live to see the Champlain memorials constructed. Senator Patrick H. McCarren of Brooklyn, who assisted in interesting the Representatives in Congress from the City of New York in the celebration, did not live to participate in it himself.

All these friends of the project in its initial and later stages will be remembered for their interest in this historical commemorative celebration, the results of which have been felt in both hemispheres in strengthening the amicable relations existing between the three great nations participating in the international festivities. Its scope in a measure was outlined in the presentation of the matter to the Legislative Committees, making the original and second appropriation, over which Senators William W. Armstrong and Jotham P. Allds in the Senate and Hon. Edwin A. Merritt, Jr., in the Assembly, presided.


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II. BRIEF REVIEW OF THE WORK OF THE COMMISSION AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS IN APPRECIATION OF THE ASSISTANCE RENDERED BY THE REPRESENTATIVES OF FOREIGN NATIONS, MILITARY ORGANIZATIONS AND OTHERS.

An outline of the work of the Commission was embodied in the recommendations adopted at the conclusion of the investigation and deliberation of the Preliminary Commission, found at pages 21 to 40 of the First Report of this Commission. Some modifications in the original plan were found necessary as the preparation for the celebration took definite form, but in the main there was substantial adherence to the original recommendations of the Preliminary Commission as may be seen from an examination of the Tercentenary Exercises and the transactions of the Commission hereinbefore given in some detail which involved, in addition to the celebration, the construction of two memorials to Samuel Champlain in the Champlain valley. One of these was a joint memorial constructed by the Vermont and New York Commissions in co-operation from funds jointly contributed by the two Commissions. That is the Champlain memorial at Crown Point Forts. Without the friendly assistance and co-operation of the Vermont Tercentenary Commission in planning and in sharing the expense involved in the construction of the Crown Point memorial, it is not likely that two memorials would have been built. This Commission takes this occasion to make permanent record of the fact that the members of the Vermont Commission were quite as desirous of erecting a fitting memorial to Samuel Champlain as were the members of the New York Commission, notwithstanding the fact that it was apparent to them that the joint memorial was likely to be located within the confines of the State of New York, rather than in Vermont. Undoubtedly the character of the memorial in the form of[186] a lighthouse and its location on a point projecting far into the waters of the lake where it may be seen quite as readily by the citizens of Vermont as by those of New York, had something to do in bringing about unanimity of sentiment in the action of the two Commissions in deciding to erect a joint memorial.

It is hoped that this memorial will stand for all time as a monument to the wisdom of the two Commissions in thus performing a public duty in the spirit of fairness to the people of both states and in grateful appreciation of the character and services to humanity of Samuel Champlain. It met with the hearty approval of the French delegation, who placed on it the Rodin bust, a work of art, selected by M. Hanotaux and others and purchased with funds contributed by His Excellency, Clément Armand Fallières, President of the Republic of France, M. Raymond Poincaré, President of the Council and Minister of Foreign Affairs, recently elected President of the Republic of France and many others, as the seal of the Republic of France. They spoke in commendation of its artistic proportions and of its unique symbolism of the diffusion of the light of civilization through the valley by Champlain and his followers, who sought to inculcate in the “untutored minds” of the savages in the region the humane principles and benign precepts of the Christian religion.

The Champlain Memorial Statue at Plattsburgh was erected by the New York Commission out of the funds appropriated solely by the Legislature of New York. It occupies a commanding position at the outlet of the Saranac river overlooking the lake. The bronze statue of Champlain, the crouching Indian at its base and the granite approach together constitute an unique memorial, artistic in outline and worthy the discoverer of the lake, which bears his name. This will stand comparison with any memorial of the kind in the country.

The Commission submits these two memorials to the considerate judgment of the people of the State in the confidence that they will meet with general approval.

The Commission has thus constructed two suitable permanent memorials[187] to Samuel Champlain in the valley as it was authorized to do by Chapter 181 of the Laws of 1911. In this as in other matters the Commission has endeavored to carry out the spirit as well as the letter of the acts under which it performed its labors.

In addition to the building of the Champlain memorials, the Celebration with its varied literary, military and naval features was carried to a successful conclusion by the Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commissions of New York and Vermont with the co-operation of the Government of the United States and the attendance of the official representatives of France, Great Britain and Canada. The Dominion of Canada sent over the Governor-General’s Foot-Guards under Lieut. Colonel D. R. Street with twenty-two officers and three hundred and eleven enlisted men and also the Fifth Royal Canadian Highlanders under Lt. Colonel George S. Cantlie with twenty-eight officers and four hundred and thirty-eight men.

The participation of the Canadian troops in their brilliant uniforms in the Plattsburgh and Burlington parades on July 7 and 8, 1909, gave color to the marching columns and elicited the commendation of President Taft as well as of the French and British Ambassadors. It was a graceful compliment on the part of the Canadian Government to the people of the United States and gratefully appreciated by members of the Commission and others interested in the success of the celebration, to which this contributed not a little.

The presence of the French Ambassador, His Excellency, J. J. Jusserand, the British Ambassador, the Right Honorable James Bryce, the Postmaster-General of the Dominion of Canada, the Honorable Rodolphe Lemieux, the Premier of the Province of Quebec, Sir Lomer Gouin, the Lieut.-Governor of the Province of Quebec, Sir Adolphe Pelletier, the Vice-Admiral of the Japanese Navy, Baron Stakichi Uriu and others officially representing their respective Governments, gave it international significance, and the history of Lake Champlain in this and other ways has become a matter of interest to the people of other lands.

The participation of these distinguished representatives of France,[188] Great Britain, Canada and Japan in the Tercentenary Exercises added dignity and stateliness to the public and social functions of the celebration, which was widely commended through the press of this and other countries and has since become known as one of the principal commemorative celebrations of the century.

The discriminating and brilliant addresses of the French Ambassador, well known as the author of “The Literary History of The English People” and of many other works, as well as for his celebrity as a great diplomat, were keenly appreciated and will be read by all interested in the tragic events occurring in the Champlain valley during the period of its French occupancy. His touching tribute to Marquis de Montcalm, his graceful expressions of the warmth of the friendship existing between the people of France and those of America and his profound appreciation of the generous impulses of the people of New York and Vermont in projecting and carrying to a successful conclusion this commemorative celebration, in which Samuel Champlain was the central figure, will long be remembered. His long residence at Washington as the Ambassador Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary of the Republic of France, his deep interest in American institutions and in American history, and his wide and favorable acquaintance with the people of this country have ingratiated him in their affections, until they have become accustomed to look upon the distinguished French Ambassador as a member of the official circle of the nation.

The profound and illuminating addresses of the Rt. Hon. James Bryce, the British Ambassador Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary, delivered by him at Ticonderoga, Plattsburgh and Burlington, were full of that ripe scholarship found in all his public papers and in such works as his “Holy Roman Empire,” “The American Commonwealth,” “Studies in History and Jurisprudence” and in his other treatises. They were overflowing with good will toward the people of this country who consider Ambassador Bryce as a staunch friend of American institutions, as evidenced in “The American Commonwealth” and in all his public addresses.

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Rarely, if ever, have there been accredited to this country by foreign nations two Ambassadors at the same time possessing such rare literary and diplomatic qualities as Ambassadors Jusserand and Bryce, each of whom achieved distinction and has been honored in his own country.

The able and instructive addresses of Hon. Rodolphe Lemieux, Postmaster-General of Canada and Sir Lomer Gouin, Premier of the Province of Quebec, at Plattsburgh and Burlington were replete with historical suggestions touching the Champlain, St. Lawrence River and Great Lake regions and conveyed to the people south of the international boundary the good will of the people of Canada and their gratitude at the efforts being put forth to commemorate the life, the character and achievements of Samuel Champlain, who founded Quebec, the oldest city in the Dominion. There breathed through these the spirit of good will and genuine appreciation for what was being done in this celebration. The Canadian visitors created a most favorable impression and on their departure left many warm friends behind.

By a fortunate coincidence, Vice-Admiral of the Japanese Navy, Baron Stakichi Uriu, was visiting this country during the period of the Tercentenary Celebration and was one of the invited guests of the New York Commission. He spoke briefly at Ticonderoga and since his return to Japan has conveyed to the Commission his appreciation of the honor conferred upon him in being permitted to witness the Tercentenary Celebration and at receiving the official Report containing a record of it.

The addresses of these representatives of Foreign Governments were entertaining and valuable contributions to the Tercentenary Exercises, giving them an international character exponential of events to be commemorated in tracing the history of the discovery of the lake and the subsequent control of the territory by three successful sovereign nations.

The Commission takes this occasion to acknowledge its obligations in this respect to the distinguished visitors and Foreign Governments, which they severally represented, for their assistance and co-operation in giving the Tercentenary Celebration its international character and some of its most charming features.

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We cannot close this report without again expressing our grateful appreciation to the people of France for their thoughtfulness and generosity in sending to this country a work of art by one of their most distinguished sculptors, to embellish the Memorial Lighthouse erected by the States of New York and Vermont to commemorate the life of Samuel Champlain. It was a delicate and beautiful expression of appreciation on the part of the leaders of thought and culture in our sister Republic across the sea to present a bust of such symbolism as “La France” as the seal of their approval of our efforts in this regard.

As far as we have been able to do so, we have preserved in this report the addresses of M. Hanotaux and others, as well as some of their reports on their return to Paris, embodying their views and expressing their feelings toward the people of this nation, which throw new light on the sympathetic character and generous impulses of the French people. The coming of a delegation of so many distinguished Frenchmen was a great compliment to the people of this nation. This in itself was a testimonial of good will, appreciated fully as keenly as the work of art. The people of the Champlain valley and elsewhere will not be likely to forget the fact that in addition to the distinguished line of great Frenchmen from Champlain to Ambassador Jusserand, who have visited the Champlain valley, there came to that valley in the month of May, 1912, a delegation of the most distinguished Frenchmen representing industry, commerce, science, literature and art, as well as civil and military affairs, jurisprudence, statesmanship and diplomacy, that ever visited this country. They came to place the seal of France upon the Crown Point Memorial Lighthouse to Samuel Champlain, and to convey to the people of this country the appreciation of the French Nation for what was being done to commemorate the life and character of one of their countrymen. The names of this delegation have already appeared, but let record be herein made of the fact that Fernand Cormon, member of the Institute and President of the Academy of Fine Arts, was one of the delegation that brought the Rodin allegorical bust from France and directed its location on the Champlain Memorial Lighthouse.

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The President of the United States, William Howard Taft, Governor Charles E. Hughes, Governor George H. Prouty, Secretary of War Jacob M. Dickinson, Senator Elihu Root, Congressmen George R. Malby, David J. Foster, Frank Plumley and the other speakers, the poets and the clergymen who participated in the Celebration as well as Governor John A. Dix of New York and Governor John A. Mead of Vermont and other speakers and clergymen, who took part in the dedication of the two Champlain memorials, not only put the members of the two Champlain Commissions, but the people of the Champlain valley under obligations to them for their contributions to the excellence and high quality of the literary exercises.

Col. Calvin D. Cowles and staff of officers and the Fifth U. S. Infantry; Col. William Paulding and staff of officers and the Twenty-fourth U. S. Infantry; Captain William T. Littebrant and staff of officers and the Fifteenth U. S. Cavalry; Brigadier-General J. H. Lloyd and staff of officers of the Third Brigade of the National Guard, New York; Col. James W. Lester and staff of officers and enlisted men of the Second Regiment of the National Guard, New York; Col. John I. Pruyn and staff of officers and enlisted men of the Tenth Infantry of the National Guard, New York; and the Canadian Military Organizations heretofore referred to and the Flotilla, comprising the torpedo boat Manley and two steam cutters named Plattsburgh and Burlington, respectively, under command of Lieut. G. W. Steele, Jr., with Midshipman Gerard Bradford second in command, and L. O. Armstrong, with his company of 150 Indians, descendants of the tribes originally occupying the Champlain valley, were important factors in the military, naval and pageant features of the Tercentenary Celebration contributing materially to its success. The maneuvering of these troops in the Champlain valley was suggestive of the military expeditions and fierce engagements that characterized its history for nearly two hundred years after the discovery of the lake by Samuel Champlain.

This Commission takes this occasion to acknowledge its obligations in this direction to the commissioned and other officers and members of[192] these various military organizations as well as to the Brigadier-General, Major-General and other officers and members of the National Guard of New York, who took part in the celebration and in the dedicatory ceremonies of the two memorials in July, 1912.

The Commission is also grateful to Hon. Robert Bacon, former Ambassador to France, to Paul Fuller, Jr., Secretary of Franco-American Committee, to Hon. Frank S. Witherbee, President and to the members of the Lake Champlain Association, to President John H. Finley of the College of the City of New York, to Hon. McDougall Hawkes, Chairman of the American Board of the French Institute in the United States, to Hon. Charles B. Alexander, to former Senator William A. Clark of New York, to Hon. A. Barton Hepburn, President of the Chamber of Commerce of the State of New York and to all others, who assisted in the entertainment of the French Delegation on their visit to this country in April-May, 1912.

Acknowledgment is also made of the entertainment of the members of the Preliminary Champlain Commission by the Hon. and Mrs. Nelson W. Fisk at their home at Isle La Motte on September 7, 1907, and of the transportation of the members of that Commission on the Valcour, owned by Hon. Joseph C. Sibley, to Burlington in the afternoon of that day, where they were entertained by the Ethan Allen Club in the evening. Representative Sibley also placed his yacht, Valcour, at the disposition of the Commission during the week of the Celebration.

It will also be remembered that Mr. and Mrs. Stephen H. P. Pell entertained President Taft and other distinguished guests at their home at Ticonderoga on July 6, 1909, and also the French delegation on May 3, 1912.

Commissioner and Mrs. Walter C. Witherbee entertained members of the Commission at their beautiful home at Port Henry on July 5, 1909.

Through the courtesy of Col. Robert M. Thompson, accommodations were provided by him for entertainment of members of the Commission at Ticonderoga on July 5 and 6, 1909.

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Commissioner Howland Pell entertained the members of the Commission at his reconstructed Germain Redoubt at Ticonderoga on May 3, 1909.

Hon. John R. Myers of Rouse’s Point supervised the transportation of the participants in the Indian pageants during the celebration and in other ways aided the Commission in its labors.

Frank H. Severance, secretary of the Buffalo Historical Society, was secretary of the Preliminary Lake Champlain Commission and prepared two historical papers, which appeared in the First Report of this Commission. In these respects and otherwise he rendered important services to this Commission.

The Notes on the Archæology of the Champlain valley, contained in the Appendix of this volume, by Prof. George H. Perkins, Ph.D., state geologist of Vermont, is a valuable contribution to this Report and is gratefully appreciated by the members of this Commission.

The typographical excellence of the First Report of this Commission elicited general commendation and the State Printers, J. B. Lyon Company of Albany, New York, have spared no pains in the presswork of this Final Report to insure its general excellence.

The exhaustive analytical Index to the First Report and also that to the Final Report, prepared by Charles Alexander Nelson, A. M., will greatly facilitate their usefulness for historical and other purposes.

The members of the Commission were among the invited guests of the Hudson-Fulton Commission during that memorable celebration.

All these were gratefully appreciated as well as all other things done and courtesies shown to the Commission by the people of the Champlain valley in their enthusiastic support of the project of suitably celebrating the discovery of the lake.

In concluding their work, the Commissioners take this occasion to express their appreciation of the generous support and wide publicity given to the Tercentenary project by the Press of this Country and of Canada, which contributed much to the popular interest shown in this commemorative celebration.


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III. HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE OF THE TERCENTENARY CELEBRATION

If the Tercentenary Celebration has awakened a deeper popular interest in the history of the Champlain valley, and as a result of that a broader and more profound appreciation of the principles of civil and religious liberty underlying our American institutions, and of the heroic sacrifices made by the founders of this government to insure its perpetuity, then the members of the Commission and the people of the state may feel well repaid for all efforts put forth in its prosecution.

In the various papers and addresses of the celebration frequent allusion was made to the important events occurring in the several epochs of the history of Lake Champlain, and many of these were elaborated upon at some length. It was not possible, however, to do more.

The critical history of the Champlain valley is yet to be written. For three centuries it has been the arena wherein have occurred many crucial events affecting the evolution and the character of American institutions.

Ira Allen in his “Natural and Political History of the State of Vermont,” Francis Parkman in his various historical works, Hon. Lucius E. Chittenden in his addresses and public papers, Peter S. Palmer in his “History of Lake Champlain,” and in his “History of the Battle of Valcour on Lake Champlain,” Winslow C. Watson in his “History of Essex County,” his “Pioneer History of the Champlain Valley” and his “Men and Times of the Revolution,” Thomas Hawley Canfield in his “Discovery, Navigation and Navigators of Lake Champlain,” Zadock Thompson in his histories of the State of Vermont and in his “Northern Guide,” Hiland Hall in his “History of Vermont,” Winslow C. Watson in his “Military and Political History of Essex County,” [N. Y.] in the “History of Essex County,” [N. Y.] by H. P. Smith, in the papers entitled “The First Battle of Lake Champlain,” by George F. Bixby, Rev. Joseph Cook in his “Historical Address at the Centennial Anniversary of the Settlement of Ticonderoga,” and in other addresses and writings, Walter H. Crockett in[198] his “History of Lake Champlain,” and others, have given much of the history of the successive periods, although the works of some of these are necessarily too limited to include a complete history of the region in all its amplitude and in all its details.

In the papers and proceedings of the Vermont Historical Society, as well as in the “Documents Relative to the Colonial History of the State of New York” and the “Documentary History of the State of New York,” and in other transcripts of documents in foreign and American archives, and in the Military Records of the United States, France, Great Britain and Canada may be found much material relating to the history of Lake Champlain. There will be found in such libraries as the State Library at Albany, the State Library at Montpelier, the library of the Ticonderoga Historical Society, the libraries at Port Henry and at Plattsburgh, as well as in the library at Middlebury College and in the library of the University of Vermont, at Burlington, Vt., in the Collections of the New York State Historical Association, the New York, Massachusetts, Connecticut, Rhode Island and other State Historical Societies, and in the libraries of Ottawa, Montreal and Quebec, maps, charts, documents and other material relating to the region. The foreign material is confined principally to events occurring prior to 1783, except such British and Canadian documents as relate to the War of 1812.

The correspondence between the Colonial Governors and military and naval officers in America, including General Jeffrey Amherst and General John Burgoyne, with William Pitt and other representatives of the home government, throws much light on the events of the British period from 1758 to 1783. Other historical writings and standard histories may also be consulted with profit.

Since the conclusion of the War of 1812 the history of the Champlain valley has been that of a record of the settlement, the agricultural and mineral development of the territory bordering on the lake, and of an active transportation and commercial business done on the lake until the construction of railroads paralleling it on either side, which checked the volume of transportation by water as well as the active passenger service that had been done by steamers for three-quarters of a century.[199] The completion of the barge canal between the Hudson and Lake Champlain may to some extent restore the volume of transportation on the lake.

From pre-historic times the Champlain valley has been one of the thoroughfares of successive nations occupying the region, inviting alike to discoverer, trader, pioneer, warrior and traveler. It was but natural that its circumjacent shores and beautiful islands should become the homes of sturdy men, breathing the ozone of the mountain air wafted down into the valley, and possessing an independence and resolution found in such men as the Allens, the Warrens, the Bakers, and the Chittendens. It was this spirit which moved Ira Allen to incorporate in the first constitution of Vermont, adopted July 2 to 8, 1777, a mandatory provision providing for a common school in each town, a grammar school in each county, and a university in the state, and afterward he gave all his property to found the University of Vermont.

The conditions obtaining in the Champlain valley during the Tercentenary Celebration were thus picturesquely but aptly described by Dr. Hamilton Wright Mabie, the Tercentenary orator at Ticonderoga, in the Outlook of July 31, 1909:

* * * Never were conditions more favorable for such a celebration as that planned in honor of Champlain’s discovery. Barring one day, the weather was perfect. Refreshing breezes swept through the gaps between the soft blue domes on either side of the lake, tempering the ardor of the sun’s rays, while the air was of that crystalline clarity, which exhilarates and draws from man involuntary exclamations of gladness for the fact of mere existence. Each day a pageant of great, snowy clouds swept across the deep blue sky, adding to the dreamy charm of the background of the celebration. The spectator’s manipulation of the pigments of language is not so perfect as was Turner’s of paints; but he wishes it were, in order that he might convey an impression of the changing lights and shadows and tints, which presented new combinations of color with every passing moment. From the moment the rays of the rising sun shot through the notches in the Green Mountains, informing the visitor that he or she must be up and doing if the event of the day was to be witnessed, until the golden afterglow had ceased to define the rounded heights of the Adirondacks and the amethystine tints of the mountain sides had deepened into the black shadow of night, each hour had a fresh temptation for the artist.


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IV. REPRESENTATIVE MEN OF THE CHAMPLAIN REGION

Out from that valley have come a host of statesmen: Stephen A. Douglas, Samuel Prentice, Solomon Foote, Silas Wright, Samuel S. Phelps, Jacob Collamer, Robert S. Hale, William A. Wheeler, Chester A. Arthur, George F. Edmunds, John M. Thurston, born at Montpelier, August 21, 1847, and U. S. Senator from Nebraska, 1895 to 1901; Matthew H. Carpenter, born at Moretown, December 22, 1824, U. S. Senator from Wisconsin, 1869 to 1875, and from 1879 to February 25, 1881; Jacob M. Howard, born at Shaftsbury, July 10, 1805, representative in Congress from Michigan from 1841 to 1843 and U. S. Senator from 1862 to 1871; William Pitt Kellogg, born at Orwell, December 8, 1831, U. S. Senator from Louisiana, 1868 to 1874; Leslie M. Shaw, born at Morristown, Vt., November 2, 1848, Governor of Iowa in 1898 to 1902, and became Secretary of U. S. Treasury on February 1, 1902, under President Theodore Roosevelt; Alexander W. Buel, born in Rutland in 1813, representative from Michigan in Congress from 1849 to 1850; Selucius Garfielde, born at Shoreham, December 8, 1822, and representative from Washington Territory in the 41st and 42d Congresses; Josiah B. Grinnell, born at New Haven, December 22, 1821, and representative from Iowa in the 38th Congress; Joseph Ketchum Edgerton, born in Vergennes, February 16, 1818, and representative from Indiana in the 38th Congress; J. Allen Barber, born at Georgia, Vt., member of the first Constitutional Convention of Wisconsin and representative from Wisconsin in the 42d and 43d Congresses; Lucien B. Caswell, born at Swanton, Vt., representative from Wisconsin in the 44th-47th Congresses; Joel Turrel, born at Shoreham, Vt., February 22, 1794, and representative from New York in Congress from 1833 to 1837; John Fassett Follett, born in Franklin County, Vt., and representative from Ohio in 48th Congress; Stephen C. Millard,[204] born at Stamford, January 14, 1841, representative from New York in the 48th and 49th Congresses; John M. Parker, born at Granville, N. Y., June 14, 1805, and representative in Congress from 1855-9; Aaron F. Perry, born at Leicester, Vt., January 1, 1815, representative from Ohio in 42d Congress; Ossian Ray, born at Hinesburgh, Vt., December 13, 1815, and representative from New Hampshire in the 46th and 47th Congresses; Almon H. Read, born at Shelburne, Vt., June 12, 1790, representative from Pennsylvania in Congress from 1842-1844; John Gilbert Sawyer, born at Brandon, Vt., June 5, 1825, and a representative from New York in the 49th and 50th Congresses; Philetus Sawyer, who spent his youth in the Adirondacks, was a representative from Wisconsin in the 39th and ten succeeding Congresses, and in 1881 elected to the United States Senate and re-elected in 1887, where he served with great distinction; George Willard, born at Bolton, Vt., March 20, 1824, and a representative from Michigan in 43d and 44th Congresses; Joseph W. Babcock, born at Swanton, Vt., March 6, 1850, and representative from Wisconsin in the 53d to the 60th Congresses; Martin J. Wade, born at Burlington, Vt., October 20, 1861, and representative from Iowa in the 58th Congress; George Edmund Foss, born at Berkshire, Vt., July 2, 1863, a representative from Illinois in the 54th to 62d Congresses; Eugene N. Foss, born at West Berkshire, Vt., September 24, 1858, representative from Massachusetts in Congress in 1910, and Governor of Massachusetts since 1910, and such diplomats as John A. Kasson, George P. Marsh, Levi P. Morton, Edward J. Phelps, and such journalists as James R. Spalding, founder of the New York World, Jeremiah Evarts, father of William M. Evarts, and scores of others. Some of these, however, were not born in the valley, but they received their early impressions from conditions existing there, while attending college or spending their youth in that invigorating atmosphere. Among such was Henry J. Raymond, who took his course at the University of Vermont, and became founder of the New York Times and representative in Congress during the Lincoln administration.

In the Congressional representation of the Champlain valley occur the[205] names of many distinguished citizens: Peter Sailly of Plattsburgh, representative in Congress in 1804, who enjoyed the confidence of President Thomas Jefferson and who appealed to the Secretary of the Treasury in August, 1813, to prevent the further destruction of property on the west side of the lake, where, he said, “there is not a military post nor a soldier to be seen”; Hon. Reuben H. Walworth of Plattsburgh, representative in Congress in 1821-1823 and Chancellor for the State from 1828 to 1848; General Henry H. Ross of Essex, representative in the 19th Congress and on General Macomb’s staff at the battle of Plattsburgh; Hon. Augustus C. Hand of Elizabethtown, representative in Congress in 1839-1840; Hon. William Slade of Middlebury, representative in Congress from 1831 to 1843; Hon. Lemuel Stetson of Plattsburgh, representative in the 28th Congress and later County Judge of Clinton County; Hon. Orlando Kellogg of Elizabethtown, a representative in the 30th, 38th and 39th Congresses, and an intimate friend of President Lincoln; George R. Andrews of Ticonderoga, representative in Congress, 1849-1850, and later Justice of the Supreme Court; George A. Simmons of Keeseville, one of the most eminent lawyers in the State at that time and representative in Congress in 1853-1855; Hon. Frederick E. Woodbridge of Vergennes, representative in Congress for several terms; Hon. Robert S. Hale of Elizabethtown, N. Y., representative in Congress in 1865; Hon. George W. Palmer of Plattsburgh, representative in the 35th and 36th Congresses; Judge Homer E. Royce of St. Albans, Vt., representative in Congress and later Chief Judge of the Supreme Court of Vermont; Hon. John W. Stewart of Middlebury, Vt., representative in Congress and United States Senator; Hon. Henry G. Burleigh, representative in the 48th and 49th Congresses; Judge Horace Henry Powers of Morrisville, Vt., Chief Judge of the Supreme Court of Vermont and representative in Congress from 1890 to 1900; John H. Moffit of Plattsburgh, representative in the 50th and 51st Congresses; Hon. John M. Wever of Plattsburgh, representative in the 52d and 53d Congresses; Hon. Wallace T. Foote, Jr. of Port Henry, representative in the 54th and 55th Congresses; Richard Keese, representative in the 20th Congress;[206] Orange Ferris, representative in the 40th Congress; John Rogers, representative in the 42d Congress; John Hammond, representative in the 46th and 47th Congresses; Roswell G. Horr, representative in the 46th, 47th and 48th Congresses; and others.

Honorable Azariah C. Flagg of Plattsburgh was Secretary of State in 1826, and State Comptroller in 1834, and Hon. John F. O’Brien of Plattsburgh was Secretary of State from 1903 to 1907.

Hon. St. John B. L. Skinner of Clinton County was Postmaster-General under Andrew Johnson.

Among the early settlers, who located in Plattsburgh, were Judge Zephaniah Platt, formerly of Poughkeepsie, member of the first Provincial Congress of New York and a member of the Convention called to consider the Federal Constitution and the advisability of its adoption; Judge Melancton Smith, a native of Queens County, member of the First Provincial Congress of New York from Dutchess County and an opponent of Hamilton and Livingston in the Convention called to consider the advisability of the ratification of the Federal Constitution; and Judge Thomas Treadwell, a member of the First Provincial Congress of New York and of the Convention called to formulate the First State Constitution, who was also a member of the Convention called to consider the Federal Constitution and the advisability of its adoption.

In a later period, it will be remembered that Hon. Matthew Hale, Hon. Francis Lynde Stetson, Hon. John I. Gilbert, Hon. Richard L. Hand, and others were natives of the Champlain valley.

Many judges have been natives of the Champlain valley. Some of them have served in the courts of Vermont and New York, but more have become residents of other states, and there filled judicial positions in the state and Federal Courts. It would be interesting to record the names of all such judges who had their birth in the Champlain valley, if space permitted. We must content ourselves, however, with giving the names of a few. The first of these to occur to one is Samuel Nelson, born at Hebron, N. Y., November 10, 1792, who was a member of the State Constitutional Conventions of 1821 and 1846, a Justice of the Supreme Court of New York from 1831 to 1845, and a Judge of the[207] Supreme Court of the United States from 1845 to 1872, one of the longest judicial tenures ever held by a judge in this country.

The following may also be mentioned: Chancellor Reuben H. Walworth, Samuel Hand, Judge of the Court of Appeals, Judges, John C. Churchill, William Sweetland, John Lynde, Charles Henry Phelps, Aldace F. Walker, Wheelock G. Veazey, William P. Kellogg, Henry Chipman, Pliny Moore, John M. Parker, George Martin, Mark Skinner, Charles L. Benedict, John Alexander Jameson, Melville A. Sheldon, Eugene E. Sheldon, Walter C. Dunton, Perry G. Ellsworth, Joseph Potter, S. Alonzo Kellogg, Chester B. McLaughlin, Winslow C. Watson, Albert C. Barnes, Henry T. Kellogg, Jesse Walker, Thomas H. Noonan, John H. Booth, and John B. Riley.

Only a few of the lawyers, who were natives of the Champlain valley, can be mentioned out of the great number that have gone forth to take up their residences elsewhere. Many of them have located in New York and other Atlantic states, although a goodly number have located in the Central and Western states, and are among the persons heretofore mentioned as holding, or who have held official positions.

In addition to such, however, may also be mentioned George L. Clarke, Hon. Smith M. Weed, Hon. George M. Beckwith, Hon. Robert D. Benedict, Hon. Thomas F. Conway, Elroy N. Clark, Charles W. Waterman, George Murray Wright, John C. Clark, Hon. John J. Allen, James M. Gifford, William L. G. Smith, Hon. Benjamin E. Hall, Charles E. Shaw, James B. Ross, Hon. Henry W. Hill, member of the New York Constitutional Convention of 1894 and State Senator from 1901 to 1911, Julius H. Seymour, George W. Alger, Adelbert W. Boynton, Hon. Daniel Roberts, Charles C. Farnham, Samuel B. Botsford, Harold J. Adams, Hon. Lucian L. Shedden, Oliver D. Barrett, Rome G. Brown and Charles F. Blair.

Among the natives of the Champlain valley who entered the Army and Navy during the Civil War and since that time were Gen’l Wm. F. Smith, Gen’l George J. Stannard, Gen’l William Wells, Col. Frank Palmer, Col. George F. Nichols, Lieut. Matthew M. Standish, Gen’l[208] Stephen Moffitt, Col. John Hammond, Rear-Admiral John W. Moore, Commodore A. V. Wadhams, Admiral George Dewey, and many others, who maintained the high standards of efficiency and bravery exhibited by those who a century earlier participated in the engagements at Ticonderoga, Bennington and Saratoga, and in the naval engagements of Valcour and Plattsburgh Bay.

In addition to those already named, there have come from the Champlain valley many to fill positions of responsibility in the state and nation, of whom only the following few need be mentioned, viz., Loyal L. Smith the philanthropist, Hon. John H. Converse, President of the Baldwin Locomotive Works, Thomas Waterman Wood, President of the National Academy of Design in 1891, Hon. Stephen A. Walker, at one time Commissioner of the Board of Education of the State of New York, Hon. Darwin P. Kingsley, President of the New York Life Insurance Company, the late Dr. Abel Mix Phelps, the orthopedic surgeon, Henry H. Vail, publisher of school books, Samuel Sheldon, expert in electric science, Charles F. Longworth, expert in food products, Augustus Torrey, chief engineer of M. C. R. R., Rt. Rev. Bishop Edgar P. Wadhams of Ogdensburg, Rev. Byron Sunderland of Washington, D. C., the late Rev. Constans Liberty Goodell, D. D. of St. Louis, Mo., Rev. George F. Herrick, D. D., author of many Biblical works, located in Constantinople, Rev. George F. Hunting, D. D., President of Alma College, author of many papers and poems, Rev. George B. Spalding, President William Nelson Ferrin of Pacific University, Prof. Warren H. Landon, the late Prof. Walter E. Howard, Prof. John Dewey of Columbia University, Prof. Davis R. Dewey of Boston, Prof. Frank E. Woodruff of Bowdoin College, the Hon. Edwin Ferry Johnson, civil engineer and educator, James R. Chapman, General Manager of the Metropolitan District Electric Traction Company of London, England, Charles A. Catlin, expert in chemistry, and others.

Among the prominent educators of the Champlain valley have been Presidents James Marsh, Joseph Torrey and Matthew H. Buckham, all of the University of Vermont; Presidents Benjamin Larabee, Ezra[209] Brainerd and John M. Thomas, all of Middlebury College, Captain John Alden Patridge, and Presidents Allen Danvers Brown and Charles Horace Spooner, all of Norwich University. These were and are representatives of the higher culture of its educational institutions.

There have also been many noted and learned professors, filling their respective chairs in these educational institutions since their foundation, with distinction. These institutions have maintained educational standards so high that they have exerted a marked influence on the culture and refinement of people residing in and outside of the valley. Other educational institutions have also made their influence felt on students coming from the Champlain valley, as well as on their graduates returning to it, thereby contributing materially to the intellectual uplift of the people of the territory. All this is evidenced by the large number of liberally educated men and women who have gone forth to fill civic, technical, professional, political and other positions with marked ability, in various parts of the country.

Representatives of the Champlain valley are found in the Army, the Navy and in all departments of the national Government, as well as in the various state governments. They will also be found in the learned professions, in commercial, technical, engineering, mechanical and electrical pursuits, and are thus spreading abroad the professional, technical and general information, which they have received in the institutions of the Champlain valley and in the institutions outside of the Champlain valley, which they attended.

If space permitted, it might be of interest to submit a bibliography of the works of the authors, who have at various times lived in the Champlain valley. A few only need be cited to show their character and scope.

In addition to his services as a civilian and a Major-General of the State Militia, Ira Allen wrote the “National and Political History of the State of Vermont,” and many state papers, wherein were treated matters in controversy between the State of New York and the people under the New Hampshire grants.

The state papers of Governor George Clinton of New York, and[210] Governor Thomas Chittenden of Vermont, in relation to matters in dispute between New York and Vermont, and the correspondence between Nathaniel Chipman and Alexander Hamilton in relation to the boundary dispute, and the speech of Alexander Hamilton before a committee of the Assembly in relation to the same matter, and the controversy as to the boundary line between the two states, and other matters of interest to both commonwealths, form a most important chapter in the early history of the two states, and are contained in the Documentary History of New York and the publications of the Vermont Historical Society.

As an evidence of the intellectual and moral culture of the people of the Champlain valley, attention is called to the writings of James Marsh, President of the University of Vermont, including his Preliminary Essay to Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s “Aids to Reflection.”

Dr. Joseph Torrey, President of the University of Vermont, read an important paper on “The Discovery and Occupation of Lake Champlain,” before the Vermont Historical Society, on October 16, 1860, and he also wrote a work, which had an extensive sale, known as “A Theory of Fine Art,” but he is widely known as the translator of Neander’s “General History of the Christian Religion and Church.”

The works of George P. Marsh, for many years United States Minister to Turkey and Italy, include “Lectures on the English Language,” published in 1861, “The Origin and History of the English Language,” published in 1862, “The Earth as Modified by Human Action,” published in 1874, some of which were standard treatises.

Judge Edmund Hatch Bennett was the author of an edition of the works of Judge Joseph Story and also of an hundred volumes of law reports.

Rev. William G. T. Shedd, lecturer at the University of Vermont, was a prolific writer on historical, philosophical and literary subjects, and his works became standard authorities on the subjects treated.

Thomas Jefferson Conant of Middlebury, born at Brandon, Vt., and a graduate of Middlebury College, was the author of various Biblical works, and a member of the American Bible Revision Committee.

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Rev. John B. Wentworth, D. D., was the author of “The Logic of Introspection,” and “The Philosophy of Methodism.”

Rev. George N. Boardman, graduate of Middlebury College, was the author of the “History of New England Theology.”

Samuel Ward Boardman, of Middlebury College, was the author of “Arbitration” and other works.

Rev. Charles Marsh Mead, a graduate of Middlebury College, was the author of several works, and a member of the American Bible Revision Committee.

Prof. John E. Goodrich, D. D., of the University of Vermont, is the author of several historical papers, including a volume entitled “Vermont Revolutionary Rolls,” and parts of the Standard Dictionary and other publications.

Col. George Grenville Benedict of Burlington, President of the Vermont Historical Society, was the author of “Vermont in the Civil War” in two volumes, and “Vermont at Gettysburg,” and “Army Life in Virginia.”

Prof. George H. Perkins of the University of Vermont is the author of several works and reports on the Geology of Vermont and the archaeology of the Lake Champlain region.

Prof. Brainard Kellogg, formerly of Middlebury College, is the author of several school and college text books.

A recent work is “Three Centuries in Champlain Valley,” by Mrs. George Fuller Tuttle of Plattsburgh, Regent of Saranac Chapter, Daughters of American Revolution.

Several works have heretofore been cited in this report relating to the history of Lake Champlain, by persons residing in the valley and deeply interested in its history. All these will be carefully examined by students and writers of the events occurring in the Champlain valley.

Among the poets of the valley is John G. Saxe, born at Highgate, Vt., June 2, 1816, a graduate of Middlebury College in 1839. It has been said of him that he was second only to Dr. Holmes as a humorist.

Lucretia Maria Davidson of Plattsburgh, a promising poetess, died at an early age, in 1825.

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For many years Julia Ward Howe, born in New York, resided in Rutland county, and wrote poetry. Her principal poem is the “Battle Hymn of the Republic.”

Rev. Orville G. Wheeler, born at Charlotte, Vt., resided in Grand Isle county, and wrote poems occasionally, the principal one of which is his Semi-Centennial Poem of the University of Vermont, read in 1854.

Daniel L. Cady, L.H.D., a graduate of the University of Vermont in the class of 1886, was the poet at the Tercentenary Exercises at Plattsburgh, and his poem entitled “Champlain and Lake Champlain” is an Epic of the Champlain valley.

Prof. Davis R. Dewey is the author of a work and several papers on Economics and kindred subjects, and has done much in that field of political science.

Prof. John Dewey is the author of one or more works on Psychology, and is one of the leading authorities in this country on philosophical subjects.

Rev. George F. Wright, D. D., born in Whitehall, is the author of many works, including the annual publications known as “Records of the Past.” He is also the author of “Logic of Christian Evidences,” and works on geological and archæological subjects.

Rev. Joseph Cook, born at Ticonderoga in 1838, after pursuing his studies in American and German universities, delivered several courses of lectures in Boston, New York and elsewhere, on current topics and on such subjects as “Transcendentalism,” “Orthodoxy,” etc., with such clearness and force as to arouse deep interest in them, notwithstanding their abstruseness. His lectures were published in book form and widely read. His noted “Centennial Address” at Ticonderoga on July 25, 1864, is a valuable contribution to the history of Lake Champlain, in which he took a deep interest. In some respects he was one of the best informed living writers on the subject at the time of his death.

The Hon. Lucius E. Chittenden, born in Williston, Vt., May 24, 1824, who became Register of the United States Treasury under President Lincoln, collected a valuable library relating to the history of Lake Champlain, and delivered the annual address before the Vermont[213] Historical Society on October 8, 1872, on the “Capture of Ticonderoga.” He is also the author of “Recollections of President Lincoln and his Administration,” and other works.

Henry W. Hill, President of the Buffalo Historical Society, a native of Isle La Motte, Vt., one of the first points visited by Samuel Champlain in the valley, is the author of “Waterways and Canal Construction in New York State,” of “The Development of Constitutional Law in the State of New York,” the framer of several constitutional provisions of New York, a contributor to the Bibliophile edition of the works of Horace, the author of several articles in encyclopaedias and the compiler and editor of the Reports of the New York Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission.

Hon. Robert Roberts of Burlington, Vermont, is the author of the valuable Digest of the Vermont Reports.

Charles W. Baker is the author of “Monopolies and the People” and editor of the Engineering News, New York City.

Moses Nelson Baker is the author of books, papers and numerous articles on engineering, sanitation, and economic subjects, and associate editor of the Engineering News, New York City.

Kirby Flower Smith, Ph.D., a native of Rutland county, Vermont, a graduate of the University of Vermont in 1884, is the Dean of the Latin Faculty of Johns Hopkins University and is the author of several articles, books and papers on various phases of the Latin language and the literature of the Romans. He is one of the leading authorities of America in this domain of classical literature.

Henry Norman Hudson of Cornwall, Vt., a graduate of Middlebury college, was one of the principal Shakspearian scholars in the United States at the time of his death in 1886.

One of the more recent contributors to the literature of the Champlain region was the late Robert O. Bascom of Fort Edward. A bibliography of his papers may be found in the New York State Historical Association Publications, vol. 10, p. 301.

Frederick B. Richards, Secretary of the New York State Historical Association, Hon. James A. Holden, State Historian, Victor Hugo[214] Paltsits, former State Historian, Dr. George F. Bixby, Dr. William A. E. Cummings, President of the Ticonderoga Historical Society, and others, have contributed valuable papers in recent years on different phases of the History of Lake Champlain, some of which have been included in the publications of the New York State Historical Association.

James Buckham, son of President Matthew H. Buckham, the essayist and poet, whose writings possess a charm and purity of diction not unlike those of Matthew Arnold.

Prof. James R. Wheeler, Ph.D., of Columbia University, one of the leading authorities in this country on the Greek language, archæology and art.

Bert Hodge Hill, Ph.D., of Bristol, Vt., is Director of American School of Classical Studies at Athens, Greece.

Rev. Earl M. Wilbur, a graduate of the University of Vermont, is Dean of the Pacific Unitarian School at Berkeley, Cal.

These are a few of the native authors and writers of the Champlain valley, and the list might be extended, if space permitted.

Others might be cited, but the foregoing will suffice to show the trend of thought in the Champlain valley and that it has been quite as productive of men of noble culture as any other part of the country. This may have been lost sight of in the attention given to its more spectacular and thrilling military and naval history. But for a century past, the amenities of peace and the fruition of high ideals have accelerated its intellectual and moral uplift and contributed to that general culture which has long prevailed in the Champlain valley.

Its residents are for the most part well-trained, thoughtful, cultured people. They thoroughly appreciated the Tercentenary exercises, as well as the dedicatory ceremonies. The social as well as the atmospheric conditions there are wholesome and invigorating, consequently it is fast becoming the resort during the summer months of the people from the metropolis and other cities, seeking rest and recreation under conditions that are healthful and inspiring. The Tercentenary celebration brought its advantages to the attention of a large portion of our population, who may find in the Champlain valley such resorts as they need for health and pleasure.

NEW YORK COMMISSIONERS
HENRY W. HILL WALTER C. WITHERBEE
H. WALLACE KNAPP
JAMES J. FRAWLEYJAMES A. FOLEY
NEW YORK COMMISSIONERS
JOHN B. RILEY LOUIS C. LAFONTAINE
HOWLAND PELL
JOHN H. BOOTH
JAMES SHEA WILLIAM R. WEAVER

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V. CONCLUSION OF THE WORK OF THE NEW YORK LAKE CHAMPLAIN TERCENTENARY COMMISSION

The work of the Commission was done largely through committees after a presentation and consideration of such problems as arose under instructions adopted at formal sessions of the Commission from time to time with reference to the conduct of the celebration and the construction of memorials. The Commission held upwards of thirty-seven formal sessions and the results may be seen in the work accomplished. From the first it was the purpose of the Commission to organize and carry to a successful conclusion such a celebration as would be in keeping with the dignity of the state and true to the historical events to be commemorated. The members of the Commission fully appreciate their limitations in undertaking to present in outline the history of the Champlain valley in the form necessarily pursued in the Tercentenary Celebration, which President Taft humorously characterized as a “traveling show,” but there was no other way suggested or that occurred to members of the Commission, whereby that could be done and any adequate presentation of the tragic events following the discovery of the lake could be made, than that adopted by the Commission.

Though there may not have been given “the substance,” the members trust that they may not have failed to so present its essentials as to enable many to behold something of what Professor William M. Sloane denominates “the vision of history,” as unfolded in the Champlain valley.

Activities of the Tercentenary Commissioners

The multifarious duties, devolving upon the members of Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission during the period of five years of its existence, and involving activities of a wide range and great detail, may never be fully appreciated nor even fully understood. The members of the Commission were business and professional men actively engaged, but they were so deeply interested in the celebration, that they left nothing[218] undone to ensure its success. Senator James J. Frawley was chairman of the Finance Committee of the Senate from 1911 and also a member of another State Commission, Senator James A. Foley, who was a member of Preliminary Champlain Commission, took a deep interest in the project from its inception, Senator H. Wallace Knapp, chairman, Hon. Walter C. Witherbee, treasurer, Hon. Howland Pell, whose family has done much to restore Ft. Ticonderoga, Hon. Louis C. Lafontaine, Judges John B. Riley and John H. Booth and Hon. James Shea, and Hon. William R. Weaver, all freely gave their services and as much of their time as they were able to the Tercentenary celebration.

At the final meeting of the New York Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission a resolution was adopted expressing the appreciation of its members to its secretary, Henry W. Hill, for his long and unrequited services in preparing the comprehensive, historical and scholarly First and Final Reports of the Commission, which possess a literary finish and a perfection in every detail worthy the commemorative Tercentenary celebration and the bi-state, national and international functions involved.

In presenting their Final Report to the Legislature, the Tercentenary Commissioners avail themselves of this opportunity to make it a matter of record that they have had the support and active co-operation of the several Governors and successive Legislatures of the state in office during the life of the Commission in carrying to a successful conclusion the celebration and in the construction and dedication of the two permanent memorials to Samuel Champlain, the first white man to set foot on the soil of what is now within the confines of the state. The Government of the United States invited and, out of an appropriation made by it for that purpose, entertained the foreign guests. The state of Vermont contributed its proportionate share of the general expenses and of the cost of the joint memorial at Crown Point forts. The state of New York paid its proportionate share of the general expenses and of the cost of the joint memorial at Crown Point forts and the entire cost of the Champlain memorial at Plattsburgh and the Commission has turned a small balance back into the State Treasury, as will appear from the Financial Statement in the Appendix of this Final Report.


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Appendix


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I. REPORT OF HOUSE COMMITTEE ON FOREIGN AFFAIRS

Sixtieth Congress, Second Session. House of Representatives. Report No. 2169

Tercentenary Celebration of Discovery of Lake Champlain

February 15, 1909—Referred to the House Calendar and ordered to be printed.

Mr. Foster, of Vermont, from the Committee on Foreign Affairs, submitted the following report.

[To accompany H. J. Res. 257.]

The committee on Foreign Affairs, to whom was referred House joint resolution 257, submit the following report [taken from the joint memorial presented to Congress by the New York and Vermont Tercentenary Commissions in January 1909.]

In the month of November, 1906, a joint resolution for the appointment of a commission for the celebration of the three hundredth anniversary of the discovery of Lake Champlain was adopted by the senate and house of representatives of the State of Vermont, containing the recital that—

Whereas, The discovery of Lake Champlain was an event in history fully as important as many others that have been recognized by various states as well as by the National Government; and

Whereas, The three hundredth anniversary of such discovery will occur on July 4, 1909, it is hereby

Resolved by the Senate and House of Representatives, That this event should be observed in a fitting manner and bring about an observance commensurate with its importance, there is hereby provided a commission consisting of the governor, who shall be chairman ex-officio, and six other members to be appointed by the governor before January 1, 1907, one of whom shall act as secretary. Said commission is hereby empowered to adopt such measures as in its judgment may be[224] reasonable or necessary to bring about the fitting observance of such event. And as the interests of the State of New York and of the Dominion of Canada are allied with those of Vermont in such observance, it is hereby recommended that said commission confer with the proper authorities of New York and Canada to ascertain what action they or either of them will take with Vermont in making the observance of this event successful and a credit to all, and that the commission report the result of such efforts, together with its recommendations, to the general assembly of 1908—

which resolution was approved by Governor Fletcher D. Proctor on November 15, 1906; and thereafter Governor Proctor appointed as members of such commission Walter E. Howard, of Middlebury; Horace W. Bailey, of Newbury; R. W. McCuen, of Vergennes; Lynn M. Hays, of Essex Junction; Walter H. Crockett, of St. Albans; M. D. McMahon, of Burlington; and thereafter, on April 15, 1907, on motion of Senator Henry W. Hill, of Buffalo, the senate of the State of New York adopted the following resolution, which was concurred in by the assembly on April 16, 1907:

Whereas the discovery of Lake Champlain by Samuel Champlain on July 4, 1609, antedates the discovery by the whites of any other portion of the territory now comprising the State of New York, and was an event worthy of commemoration in the annals of the State and nation; and

Whereas the State of Vermont in 1906 appointed a commission, consisting of the governor of that State and six other commissioners, to confer with commissioners to be appointed on the part of New York and the Dominion of Canada, to ascertain what action, if any, ought to be taken by such States and the Dominion of Canada for the observance of such tercentenary: Therefore

Resolved (if the Assembly concur), That a commission consisting of the governor, who shall be chairman ex-officio, two citizens to be designated by him, the lieutenant-governor, the speaker of the assembly, two senators to be designated by the lieutenant-governor, and two members of the assembly to be designated by the speaker, be appointed to represent the State of New York at such conference, with power to enter into negotiations with the commissioners representing the State of Vermont and those representing the Dominion of Canada for the observance of such tercentenary, and that such commission report the results of their negotiations, together with the recommendations thereon, to the legislature of 1908.

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The New York commission appointed under the foregoing resolution consisted of Governor Charles E. Hughes, Lieutenant-Governor Lewis Stuyvesant Chanler, Senators Henry W. Hill, John C. R. Taylor, and Assemblyman James W. Wadsworth, jr., speaker of the assembly, Alonson T. Dominy, James A. Foley, and Frank S. Witherbee and John H. Booth.

That commission, together with the Vermont commission, during the summer of 1907 made a tour of Lake Champlain, held several joint and separate meetings, and the New York commission formulated its report and transmitted it to the New York legislature of 1908, a copy of which is annexed hereto, in the conclusion of which report they recommend as follows:

SIGNIFICANCE OF THE ANNIVERSARY OF 1909.

Your commission respectfully submit the foregoing report to the consideration of the legislature of New York. The anniversary which we desire shall be suitably observed has great significance. Important as it is to the student of history, it makes a wider and stronger appeal to that large body of our citizens whose forefathers fought in the wars of the Champlain region or were among the pioneers who transformed it from the wilderness.

But chief of all the considerations which we urge upon your attention is the international character of the proposed celebration. The history of the Champlain Valley belongs to the history of three great nations, whose cordial relations we believe will be promoted by the suitable observance of this significant date.

RECOMMENDATION.

To that end your commission, after careful investigation, reaches the conclusion that the three hundredth anniversary of the discovery of Lake Champlain should be suitably celebrated by New York State; and to that end we respectfully recommend the enactment of the following bill.

Thereafter a bill was prepared and submitted to the legislature, which was amended in some respects, and subsequently enacted and became chapter 149 of the New York Laws of 1908, providing in substance for a celebration of the tercentenary of the discovery of Lake Champlain by Samuel Champlain in the month of July, 1609, which celebration,[226] by the terms of the bill, is to occur in the month of July, 1909, at various points in the Champlain valley.

The commission appointed thereunder consisted of H. Wallace Knapp, Mooers, N. Y., chairman; Henry W. Hill, of Buffalo, secretary; Walter C. Witherbee, Port Henry, treasurer; James J. Frawley, New York City; James Shea, Lake Placid; James A. Foley, New York City; John H. Booth, Plattsburgh; John B. Riley, Plattsburgh; Louis C. Lafontaine, Champlain; Howland Pell, New York City.

This commission was empowered under the last-mentioned statute to enter into negotiations and co-operate with the State of Vermont, the Government of the United States, the Dominion of Canada, and the Province of Quebec, and either or all of them in such tercentenary celebration, and appropriated by chapter 466 of the New York Laws of 1908 the sum of $50,000 for that purpose.

The Vermont commission made its report to the legislature of Vermont, held in the fall of 1908, also recommending, among other things, that a proper celebration be held in conjunction with the State of New York, the Government of the United States, and the Dominion of Canada, a copy of which report is annexed hereto. Subsequently the State of Vermont made an appropriation of $25,000 to enable that State to participate in the tercentenary celebration.

The commission appointed thereunder consisted of Governor George H. Prouty, chairman; Lynn M. Hays, of Burlington, secretary; Walter H. Crockett, of St. Albans; Rev. John M. Thomas, of Middlebury; Horace W. Bailey, of Rutland; W. J. Van Patten, of Burlington; Frank L. Fish, of Vergennes; Arthur L. Stone, of St. Johnsbury; and F. O. Beaupre, of Burlington.

The facts warranting federal appropriation are briefly set forth in the report of the New York and Vermont commissions, and in amplification thereof the following additional facts are respectfully submitted to the consideration of the President and the Congress of the United States:

Long before its discovery by Samuel Champlain, in July, 1609, Lake Champlain was the resort and battle ground of the savage Algonquin, Huron, and Iroquois nations who peopled its islands and circumjacent[227] beautifully shaded and picturesque shores. It was a paradise for the aborigines, whose native customs and adventurous but precarious life were a startling revelation to such an explorer as Champlain, coming as he did from the refinements of French life of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Still he was hospitably received and escorted to and through the lake, then known as “Caniaderiguarunte,” which signifies the “gate of the country.” The lake was also known as “Mer des Iroquois,” and traversed by the warring Indian tribes, whose canoes formed picturesque flotillas in those early days on the blue waters of the lake.

Had Champlain been gifted with the poetic imagination of a Homer or a Virgil, he might have cast into an epic the story of his explorations and discoveries, which were quite as thrilling as those of the Iliad, the Odyssey, or the Aeneid. Other poets have dwelt upon the beauties of this lake and have sung of the tragic events that have occurred on its waters.

The Champlain valley is one of the historic portions of the American Continent. Its Indian occupation was succeeded by that of the French, and in turn by the English. From its discovery in July, 1609, to the battle of Plattsburgh, in September, 1814, Lake Champlain was the thoroughfare of many expeditions and the scene of many sanguinary engagements. Noted French, British, and American officers visited it and stopped at its forts, from Ste. Anne on the north, founded at Isle La Motte in 1665, to St. Frédéric, founded in honor of the French secretary of foreign affairs, Frédéric Maurepas, by Marquis de Beauharnois, governor-general of Canada, at Crown Point in 1731, and Fort Carillon, founded at Ticonderoga in 1766, on the south.

The grants of some of its islands and adjacent shore lands under French seignories were the subject of a long controversy between the French and British Governments, challenging on the one side the consideration of such officials as Marquis de Beauharnois and others under Louis XV and Louis XVI, and on the other side such statesmen as Lord Dartmouth, Edmund Burke, and Sir Henry Moore under the British Crown. But few, if any, occupations were made under French seignorial grants, and the controversy finally ended after the Seven[228] Years’ French and Indian war, which terminated with the capture of Ticonderoga and Crown Point by the British in 1759, and the later sovereign control by the Americans during the Revolution.

The Champlain valley was the scene of important military and one naval engagement during the Revolutionary war, and permission has been obtained from the War Department to raise from the waters of Lake Champlain the Royal Savage at Valcour Island, the flagship of Benedict Arnold during that engagement. The history of Ticonderoga and Macdonough’s victory at the battle of Plattsburgh, in September 1814, are of such national importance as to merit federal consideration during the forthcoming celebration of the discovery of the lake.

For two hundred years or longer the Champlain valley was the highway between Albany on the south and Quebec on the north, through which surged the tides of war and travel, until every prominent point and important island in the lake was marked by some notable event worthy of historic mention. The proposed celebration of the discovery of the lake will commemorate some of these important events. Sewall S. Cutting, D. D., in a poem read at the University of Vermont in 1877 thus describes some of these events. He says:

I shift my theme, nor yet shall wander far;
My song shall linger where my memories are.
Dear Lake Champlain! Thou hast historic fame—
The world accords it in thy very name.
Not English speech these savage wilds first heard,
Not English prows that first these waters stirred;
Primeval forests cast their shadows dark
On dusky forms in craft of fragile bark,
When first the paleface from the distant sea
Brought hither conquering cross and fleur-de-lis.
On frowning headlands rose the forts of France—
Around them villages, and song, and dance.
Four generations came and passed away.
Of treacherous peace and sanguinary fray.
When hostile armies hostile flags unfurled.
To wage the destiny of half the world.

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No part of the United States can vie in comparison with Lake Champlain and its environs for historic importance and the ultimate significance of the national and international events occurring in that valley. “Every bay and island of the lake and nearly every foot of its shore have been the scene of some warlike movement—the midnight foray of the predatory savage, the bloody scout of frontier settlers, the rendezvous of armed bands, or the conflict of contending armies.” These stirring events cover a period of centuries—from the traditional history of the Indians to the close of the war of 1812.

From the earliest periods of settlement in Canada, New England, and New York the valley of Lake Champlain, both as watercourse or highway, served as a thoroughfare by which, in hostile times, predatory excursions were directed against both the French and English frontiers, and over which captives were conveyed into unenviable captivity. This was the route traversed by delegations engaged in diplomatic relations between the French and English colonists, and was used by agents employed to arrange an exchange of captives. The valley was a highway of commerce, particularly in the operations of the fur trade. Its Indian name, meaning “door of the country,” was an apt designation, for into it there marched the flower of contending armies of France, England, and the United States, who struggled persistently for its control. The destinies of the United States and Canada and of England’s colonial policy were largely decided by what occurred in the Champlain valley.

An unjust historical perspective is often created by placing too high value upon the significance of figures. Large armies do not always count for as much in their influence upon the course of the world’s history as events more hidden from view and surrounded with less of glamour. The one more easily bewitches the eyes, but the other is more likely to appeal to reason. The history of the Champlain valley exhibits in relief momentous martial and naval engagements and in intaglio the deeds of individuals and collections of men pregnant with far-reaching results in the evolution of the continent of North America.

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Samuel Champlain laid the foundations of New France at Quebec in 1608, and in 1609 led an expedition into the Richelieu River, accompanied by a retinue of Algonquian and other Canadian Indians. At the falls of Chambly he abandoned the vessel in which he had sailed, and by portaging and canoeing reached the entrance of a great lake, which he named Lake Champlain. Its confines constituted one of the hunting grounds of the well-organized Iroquoian Confederacy. The Iroquois were then at great enmity with the Algonquians and the Canadian Hurons.

On the night of July 29, 1609, Champlain fell in with one of the hunting parties of the Iroquois. They spent the night in parleying and uttering defiance at one another, and on the morning of July 30 the now well-known battle of Champlain took place at or near the site of Ticonderoga, as is generally believed by the best historians. The significance of this battle is attested by the alienation of the Iroquois from the French and their affiliation with the Dutch and English, and was one of the embryonic factors which, under development, ultimately saved northern New York and a large contiguous territory to English instead of French interests.

France claimed the region by right of discovery, but England sought to repress her by the limitations of treaty. In 1731 France violated the compact of peace by the erection of Fort St. Frédéric on the peninsula known better as Crown Point. The Iroquois, as claimants of territorial ownership, in June, 1737, protested against the French occupation. In 1739 the French commandant promised the Iroquois that France would not encroach or settle south of Fort St. Frédéric, but he claimed for his King all the watershed of the St. Lawrence, inclusive of Lake Champlain and Lake George. In 1742 the fort, having been enlarged, was the strongest work held by the French in Canada—Quebec and Louisburg only excepted. The five years’ war, familiarly known as King George’s war, involved the subjects of France and England in conflict, both in Europe and in America. A nominal peace was established by the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, in 1748. But soon[231] the Acadian and other boundary contentions between the two Crowns were in ferment.

France practiced subtlety in her diplomatic negotiations, strengthened her frontier posts, and inoculated her Indian allies with hatred of her English colonial neighbors. In 1755 she built Fort Carillon, afterwards Ticonderoga, and thus advanced her outposts. Henceforth, and in a seven years’ war, Fort Carillon and Ticonderoga bore the brunt of frontier aggrandizement. In August of that year Dieskau occupied Crown Point with 700 regulars, 1,600 Canadians, and 700 Indians. In 1756, 2,000 men of France were engaged on Fort Carillon; in 1757 it was garrisoned with 9,000 men under the Marquis de Montcalm. On July 8, 1758, Abercromby, with regulars and provincials, unsuccessfully stormed its works and lost nearly 2,000 men. In the same year Robert Rogers, the intrepid ranger, lost 125 out of a total of 180 men. Upon the evacuation of the region by the French in 1759 General Amherst took possession of Ticonderoga in July, and of Crown Point in August. In 1760 Amherst assembled an army of 15,000 men at Crown Point, and in August of that year Colonel Haviland, with about 3,300 men, opened fire upon the French post at Isle aux Noix, forced the French commander, Bourlamaque, to withdraw, and captured the garrison that remained behind.

For a time after the treaty of Paris, in 1763, the region rested in comparative quiescence. England’s acquisition by treaty of the vast domain of Canada eradicated the long-standing imbroglios with France in North America; but the intercolonial wars had schooled the English-American colonists in the arts of prowess and of war. The colonists also had greater freedom to consider internal interests, being now relieved from the erstwhile collisions with the French. A narrow colonial policy lent itself toward the growth of a spirit of resentment in the colonies, and England’s determination to enforce obedience to her will by the employment of military authority served only to fan the slumbering embers into a conflagration. It was under these conditions in May, 1775, that the audacious Ethan Allen, accompanied by[232] only about 83 men, surprised the English garrison at Fort Ticonderoga and that Seth Warner took Crown Point, in each case without bloodshed. When De la Place, the English officer at Ticonderoga, asked Allen by what authority he demanded the fort’s surrender, he replied with these now memorable words: “By the authority of the Great Jehovah and the Continental Congress.” The personality of Allen was and is yet a subject of academic controversy, but his action in this affair is a landmark in the romantic history of America.

Benedict Arnold has been execrated for his treason to his country, yet his name is connected with one of the greatest of patriotic services during the American Revolution. On October 11, 1776, he engaged in an extraordinary naval battle on Lake Champlain against the overwhelming odds of the British fleet under Sir Guy Carleton. This battle is in our naval annals of the Revolution what Bunker Hill is to our military history—“a battle wherein glory and renown were gained in defeat.” Spears, the naval historian, has characterized it thus: “Not only was the moral effect of this battle quite as great in the courage it gave the Americans, and the pause for thought it gave the enemy; it served to head off a victorious invading British army bound for Albany and the subjugation of northern New York. It taught the British that the Americans were not only willing, but they were able fighters. In spite of the tremendous odds against them, at the last they had proved themselves as unyielding as the rocks that echoed back the roar of the conflict.”

Burgoyne made an unsuccessful attack upon the American occupants of Fort Ticonderoga in June, 1777, but with 7,000 men had forced the abandonment of Crown Point in that month; and in July, having erected a battery on Mount Defiance, which commanded Fort Ticonderoga, forced the Americans to evacuate it on the night of the 6th. The termination of the American Revolution, save for internal controversies between New York and Vermont, ended the storm and stress period in the Champlain valley for many years, until our second war with Great Britain.

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From September 6 to 11, 1814, various land engagements took place about Plattsburgh. The British forces, numbering about 11,500 troops and including many of Lord Wellington’s veterans, were under Sir George Prevost, governor and commander-in-chief in British North America; the Americans, commanded by Macomb and Bissell, numbered 4,500 men. On September 11, 1814, the American navy on the lake, commanded by Thomas Macdonough, defeated the British squadron under the command of Commodore George Downie. This naval battle was crucial in bringing the war of 1812 to a termination. The success was acclaimed by the American people everywhere by rejoicing, bonfires, and illuminations, and was sung in the folk and war ballads of the day. Congress recognized its national significance by officially thanking the whole force engaged, and by voting gold medals to Macdonough, Henley, and Cassin, and a silver medal to each of the other commissioned officers. In this victory the United States gained prestige for the demands of the treaty of peace, and an estoppel was put upon England’s endeavor to get possession of the northeast corner of the State of Maine.

If the lake itself was the door of the whole northern country, Larrabee’s Point, on the Vermont side, opposite Fort Ticonderoga, was a side door to New England, and from that side door the New England frontiers suffered repeatedly the havoc of Indian devastations. But there are other places, besides those hitherto mentioned, whose historic associations are inseparable from a narration of the landmarks of the Champlain valley. At Burlington, Vt., the first steamboat on the lake was launched in 1808 and bore the name of that state. This was only a year after Fulton’s steamer, the Clermont, first plied the Hudson from New York to Albany. Shortly thereafter, during the period of our second war with Great Britain, Burlington was a garrisoned post and a base of supplies.

On the Isle La Motte (named from Pierre de St. Paul, sieur de la Motte-Lusière, a captain of the famous Carignan regiment), the French built a fort in 1666, which was named Ste. Anne, and in July of that[234] year, while garrisoned by several companies of the regiment above alluded to, was invested by hostile Mohawks, whose depredations included the death of Captains de Traversy and de Chazy. In October, 1666, M. de Tracy, governor-general of New France, guided and assembled an expedition on the Isle La Motte for the purpose of chastising the Iroquois. Twelve hundred combatants, borne by a fleet of 300 bateaux and canoes, and strengthened by two pieces of artillery, were engaged. They penetrated to the remotest hamlets of these Indians and planted the arms of France, in token of taking formal possession of the whole northern part of New York. The French remained undisturbed from the Mohawks for nearly a quarter of a century. Fort Ste. Anne became a Jesuit mission station and was visited by Bishop Laval in 1668. In August, 1690, Capt. John Schuyler camped there during his return from a foray into Canada. Gens. Philip Schuyler and Richard Montgomery met on the island in September, 1775, during their advance against St. John’s and Montreal, and laid there the plans for that invasion of Canada. Now the shrine of Ste. Anne, on the west side of the island, is visited annually by thousands of devout pilgrims.

Maj. Robert Rogers and 142 men came into Missisquoi Bay in the autumn of 1760, secreted their boats and some provisions, and went off on an expedition against the St. Francis Indians, near the village of Three Rivers, which they burned. Earlier in that year this same intrepid ranger had landed at the place called Rouse’s Point, near which he was attacked by a superior body of French from the Isle aux Noix. The French were defeated and their commander was slain.

Swanton, in Vermont, at an early period formed a considerable settlement of the French and Indians, being then “probably the largest in the Champlain valley with the exception of Crown Point.” At the mouth of Otter Creek, the largest river in Vermont, where Fort Cassin was built, the American squadron was fitted out in 1814 for battle against the English navy. This fort was named for Lieutenant Cassin of our navy, who, with Captain Thornton of the United States Artillery, in May, 1814, had defended the American fleet then building there from attempted destruction by the British.

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A little to the north of Rouse’s Point are the ruins of Fort Montgomery, built by error in what was then Canadian soil, and often called on that account “Fort Blunder,” but corrected by international boundary concessions. Rouse’s Point is a place of commercial interest and the most important port of entry on this frontier. Near by is Point au Fer, fortified in 1776 by the patriot General Sullivan, but occupied by the British in June of the next year and relinquished by them only as late as 1788. At Valcour Island, off Bluff Point and Hotel Champlain, the scene of Arnold’s naval battle of 1776, the wreck of the Royal Savage lies under water to this day as a reminder of the beginnings of our national naval adventures. At the head of the lake to the south, near the present Whitehall, Maj. Israel Putnam, in August, 1758, was engaged in watching the enemy’s maneuvers, and had a fierce encounter in the forest with French and Indians. He was captured, tied to a tree by the Indians, who made preparations to roast him alive. Only the stern interposition of the French officer, Marin, prevented them from dispatching him thus cruelly and robbing the patriot cause of one of its bravest leaders during the American Revolution.

The New York and Champlain commissions have concluded contracts with Mr. L. O. Armstrong, of Montreal, to present Indian pageants on Lake Champlain during the tercentenary celebration. These will be presented by 150 native Indians, descendants of the original tribes that occupied portions of the Champlain valley at the time of its discovery by Champlain. They will reproduce the battle of Samuel Champlain with the Iroquois and also present a dramatic version of Longfellow’s Hiawatha on floating barges anchored on the waters of the lake at various places where exercises are to be held.

It is desirable that the United States detail national troops and the States of New York and Vermont regiments from the National Guard to present military pageants at Ticonderoga, Plattsburgh, and Burlington. The two commissions have decided to hold formal exercises on July 5, 1909, at Crown Point, on July 6 at Fort Ticonderoga, on July[236] 7 at Plattsburgh, on July 8 at Burlington, and on July 9 at Isle La Motte, at each of which places Indian pageants will be presented.

The proposed celebration of the discovery of Lake Champlain may also include a celebration of such colonial, national, and international events occurring since the discovery of the lake as to make it eminently proper that the Government of the United States officially participate in the exercises commemorating these historical events. Historical addresses and other literary exercises are to be held, and it is important that the United States Government invite and entertain representatives of the Republic of France, the Kingdom of Great Britain, and the Dominion of Canada. The celebration is of national and international importance, and the committee recommends that the resolution do pass.


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II. ENGLISH FORTS

The Crown Point forts standing within the confines of the State Reservation at Crown Point, were frequently mentioned during the Tercentenary celebration exercises as well as during the dedicatory ceremonies of the Champlain memorials.

They are of historical and public interest, now that they belong to the State, through the generosity of Witherbee, Sherman & Co., and will be preserved from further devastation.

Fort Frédéric was built by Marquis de Beauharnois in honor of the French Secretary of Foreign Affairs, Frédéric Maurepas, in 1731. The English forts were constructed under the supervision of General Jeffrey Amherst as will appear from the following excerpts of the official “Correspondence of William Pitt,” edited by Gertrude Selwin Kimball and published by the Macmillan Company.

In his report under date of Crown Point, August 5, 1759, General Amherst says: “I arrived at Crown Point [August 4th] before the evening, landed and posted all corps. * * * I ordered [August 5th] Lt. Colonel Eyre to trace out the ground for a Fort, which I will set about with all possible expedition.” Correspondence of William Pitt, Vol. 2, pp. 147-148, published by the Macmillan Company.

General Amherst in his report under date of Crown Point October 22, 1759, to William Pitt, says “to make the fortress as formidable as I can I ordered with the advise of the Engineer three Forts to be erected, which I named the Grenadier Fort, the light Infantry Fort, & Gages light Infantry Fort, ordering those Corps’s to build each their own as fast as possible.” Correspondence of William Pitt, Vol. 2, p. 191.

In a later report under date of New York December 16, 1759, to William Pitt, General Amherst (on November 10, 1759, that being the birthday of George II), says: “The Troops worked till three o’clock, excepting the Grenadiers, who were under Arms at one o’clock and fired Volleys. * * * The three Forts firing 21 Cannon, and the Battalions[240] volleys. The Fortress 21 Cannon, the Army a running fire, the Park of Artillery 21 Cannon, the Army a general volley * * *.” Correspondence of William Pitt, Vol. 2, p. 222.

Again in a later report under date of New York, January 7, 1761, to William Pitt, General Amherst says: “The works of the Fortress of Crown Point, and of the Forts of Oswego, Pittsburg, and Fort Stanwix, are not finished so much as I could wish, and I judge, it will be proper to compleat them in the Spring, and that the Provincials should furnish men for this Service.” Correspondence of William Pitt, Vol. 2, p. 382.

It thus appears that the fortress at Crown Point was not completed in 1761, and in fact it was never fully completed.

It does not appear from the foregoing correspondence between General Amherst and William Pitt or from any of the official reports of General Amherst that the fortress at Crown Point was officially named “Fort Amherst,” as it was occasionally denominated in common parlance.


Additional light is thrown on the early history of the region in the papers of Victor Hugo Paltsits, State Historian, and W. Max Reid, on the Rock Inscription at Crown Point, found in the New York State Historical Association Publications [Vol. X, pp. 106-113]. In the papers of Mr. Reid, he says that “The Earl of Waldegrave writes to the Board of Trade, June 13th, 1732: ‘the French have caused a fort to be built * * * at a place called Pointe de la Couronne, in English, Crown Point.’” [N. Y. Hist. Assoc. Pub. X, p. 113.]


[243]

III. REPORT OF CAPTAIN EDWARD MOTT

In the Journal of Captain Edward Mott, of Preston, Connecticut, published in the Collections of the Connecticut Historical Society, Vol. I, pages 163-174, may be found the report of Captain Mott on the expedition to Ticonderoga and the part taken by the troops under his command. Therein will be found a discussion of the demand made by Col. Benedict Arnold that he be placed in command of the men who had assembled to attempt the capture of Ticonderoga and the reasons assigned for refusing such demand. An order was finally issued by Captain Mott as follows:

To Col. Ethan Allen,

Sir: Whereas, agreeable to the Power and Authority to us given by the Colony of Connecticut, we have appointed you to take the command of a party of men and reduce and take possession of the garrison of Ticonderoga and its dependencies, and as you are now in possession of the same,—You are hereby directed to keep the command of said garrison, for the use of the American Colonies, till you have further orders from the Colony of Connecticut or from the Continental Congress.

Signed per order of Committee,
Edward Mott, Chairman Committee.

Ticonderoga, May 10th, 1775.

The foregoing order appears to have been issued without direct authorization, but it was acquiesced in by Col. Arnold, who submitted to the command of Col. Allen and accompanied him in the attack. They were guided by young Nathan Beman, who was familiar with every passage of approach to the fort. After the capture of Ticonderoga, Captain Mott returned to Hartford and was sent to Philadelphia to inform Congress of the capture of Ticonderoga. And thereafter he resumed command of his company in the northern army and was present at the taking of Chambly and the surrender of St. John’s. His elder brother, Samuel, was appointed engineer and was stationed at Ticonderoga[244] and Crown Point, and in August became Chief Engineer under General Schuyler of the northern army. Captain Edward Mott became major in the regiment under Col. Gay. The devotion and distinguished services of Captain Mott and Samuel Mott, his brother, during the Revolution were recognized in their rapid promotion in the northern army.


[247]

IV. NOTES ON THE ARCHÆOLOGY OF THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY

By Professor George H. Perkins, Ph.D.

State Geologist of Vermont

It is undoubted that the Champlain valley at the time when the first Europeans entered the region was occupied by two great Indian peoples, the Confederacy of the Six Nations and the Algonkins or Abnaki. To the Six Nations the name Iroquois was generally given by the French explorers. They held full sway over the New York side of the Champlain valley, but the occupancy of the eastern, or Vermont, side is less certain. There can be no question that this side of the valley was possessed by the Algonkins for the greater part of the time, but there are several centuries when it is not easy to determine certainly the precise relations of these two peoples. Most of what became New England and the Atlantic border and a vast territory in Canada was always, so far as can be now discovered, occupied by the Algonkins who also reached far westward and southward through the Mississippi valley. The Iroquois occupied a comparatively small area about lakes Erie and Ontario and eastward along the St. Lawrence, including the whole of what is now New York, as well as parts of Pennsylvania, Ohio, Michigan and a long, narrow strip of Canada north of New York.

They also occupied territory in the south, west of the Carolinas. How long or how completely the Iroquois possessed the Vermont side of the Champlain valley we may never know, but it appears to be pretty certain that they did for a time, and probably several times, dispossess the usual owners and hold as their own the entire shore of Champlain. It appears from various records that sometime about 1540 the Iroquois were in control of both sides of the lake and of the Vermont as well as the New York shores. It also appears that these people held the region for a century when they withdrew. Why they retired to the western side is not plain.[248] Considering their warlike disposition and reputation and the very great fear in which they were held by the Algonkins it is impossible to believe that these latter drove them back across the lake, and yet why they should have voluntarily left their eastern possessions one cannot readily explain.

In 1640 Father Ducreux made a map of the region and on this map Lake Champlain is made the western boundary of the Algonkin territory, so that by this time the ownership had again changed.

In 1690, as is well known, the Algonkins and French destroyed Schenectady and, though their force was very small, they appear to have passed without any difficulty through the Champlain valley, and had it been occupied by Mohawks or any Iroquois tribe this could not have been possible.

At different times for many years various Vermont legislatures were beset by claims which the Caughnawaga Indians persistently entered. These claims were for remuneration for land taken by the white men from their ancestors and which they declared were formerly the property of their tribe.

The territory which the Caughnawagas claimed was finally defined by them as bounded by Lake Champlain on the west and on the east by the mountain ranges which divide the waters running into Lake Champlain from the Missisquoi, Lamoille and Winooski rivers from those which run into the Connecticut, together with so much of the land drained by Otter creek as would be embraced by a line drawn from Ticonderoga to the sources of the Winooski.

So far as can be ascertained by examination of documents, the validity or invalidity of this claim was neither denied nor allowed, but the claim was never in any way granted. As intimated, it was repeatedly advanced at different sessions of the General Assembly until finally abandoned in 1874. From the persistency with which the Indians brought forward their claim it seems probable that whether it had any substantial basis or not, they really believed that it had.

In a very full and interesting discussion of this question, Mr. D. P. Thompson in an Appendix to the History of Montpelier, Vt., writes as[249] follows: “In the published journal of the expedition of Champlain when in the summer of 1609 he discovered the lake that bears his name we have full and direct evidence that the Iroquois were in possession of just about the same tract of territory in Vermont as that to which their descendants have latterly been laying claim as a part of their original domain.”

Champlain also found that the Algonkins were at war with the Iroquois and, as this author suggests, this war may very likely have grown out of the encroachment of the Iroquois upon this territory which formerly had belonged to the Algonkins. Moreover, Champlain states in his narrative that when he asked his companions who lived on the east shores of the lake through which they were passing they told him that they were Iroquois. It also appears to be true that the early French explorers called Lake Champlain the Lake or Sea of the Iroquois. However, while the Algonkins admitted at the time of Champlain’s visit that the Iroquois held the Champlain valley on both sides, they asserted that it originally belonged to them, as it was occupied by their forefathers. The truth, so far as it can be ascertained, appears to be that the first inhabitants of the western side of the Champlain valley were Iroquois, and those of the eastern side were Algonkins; that at some time before 1540 the Iroquois crossed the lake and drove out the people then living on the eastern side, and for many, perhaps a hundred, years, themselves occupied that territory. In or about 1640, for reasons not discoverable, they left the eastern shores and all the territory now included in Vermont and no further trace of them appears in that region. How long the Champlain valley was occupied by these two peoples can never be known, or whether at any early time some other and different people roamed over the region. All that we do know or can know is that at the coming of the white men, and for at least several centuries before, these and only these tribes were here.

Turning now to a consideration of some of the evidence of former occupation which these peoples have left we find a great variety of implements and weapons of stone and a smaller number of copper and iron.[250] Household utensils, simple and few as were the needs of people, who were in the stone age of civilization, are also found made of stone, earthenware and bone. A detailed enumeration of these, though of great interest to the archæologist would be tedious to the general reader. For this reason only a general account of these objects will be given.

From what has been written above it will be obvious that practically all of the objects found on the New York side of the valley are of Iroquois origin, but of those found in Vermont we may be sure that many are Algonkin. It is also sure that mingled with these there must be many of Iroquoian origin. When, however, we attempt to decide which of the implements or other objects are Algonkian and which Iroquoian we undertake a very difficult task. Some of the pottery and some of the stone objects are plainly of Iroquois manufacture and others are Algonkian, but most of our specimens are not to be classified. The Iroquois were superior in culture to other tribes and their handiwork is finer as a whole, but after all the quality of the work does not, as a rule, at all suffice to distinguish between their implements and others. Quite extensive collections have been made on both sides of the lake, and when these are compared very great similarity is at once observed. And yet there are some differences though, as has been indicated, not enough to differentiate one group from the other. It is noticeable that in any considerable collection of objects of Indian manufacture from the Champlain valley, there are many of exceedingly fine workmanship. No better specimens of their kind are to be found anywhere than the best of our Champlain valley specimens. Probably because of the rocky and, at times inaccessible, character of the western shore, and the more level and inhabitable nature of the Vermont shores, Indian relics of all sorts have been found in much greater abundance on the eastern than on the western side of the lake.

Much of the New York shore is rugged and affords no good camping ground or village sites, while the Vermont shores are mostly level, or nearly so, and offer abundant invitation to wandering tribes to remain. And yet, as Champlain informs the reader, there were in his day no permanent villages because of hostilities. The whole Champlain valley, or at any[251] rate that part of it which adjoins the lake, was unsafe territory to the long-staying camper, and still more to those who would establish a village. War or hunting parties might traverse its forests, but none might safely tarry long.

As every collector of Indian relics well knows, it is about the camp, or better still, village sites that most abundant specimens occur, and as these are very few in the immediate vicinity of the lake so the number of objects found is comparatively small as compared to such localities as the Ohio or Mississippi region. Still some thousands of specimens have been collected along the shores of Lake Champlain and in their immediate neighborhood. As everywhere, the spear and arrow points, and similarly shaped knives, are by far the most abundant of all objects that have been found. These chipped points are almost always made from hard, often quartzose rock, and are of many forms and various degrees of excellence. By far the greater number are of a gray quartzite which is abundant in ledges in the region. The most common form on both sides of the lake is the simple triangle. This shape occurs of many sizes from little points a half inch long to those that are four or five inches long. They may be narrow or broad, usually without haft or barb, though these may be present in some of the less common specimens. While none are as large as the larger flaked implements of the west, some are several inches long, a few of the very largest being seven or eight. Some few of the points are as finely proportioned and elegantly made as can be found anywhere, though as a rule the flaked objects are less attractive than those from the west. This is partly due to the color and texture of the material, for the quartzites, etc., of the east are much less prettily colored than those which are found in the west or middle west. Finely barbed and stemmed points and knives are less abundant than the simpler forms, but many specimens occur and some are very finely made.

Besides these points other chipped or flaked objects are found, such as scrapers and drills. A form of point or, more probably, knife is found more commonly, I think, in the Champlain valley than elsewhere, though not peculiar to this region. These are of similar form to the better hafted[252] and stemmed, chipped points, but they are of red or purple slate and were ground at least as they were completed, though they may have been first shaped by chipping, as some of them undoubtedly were. Some of these are strikingly like the modern Eskimo knife. Dr. Beauchamp has figured some of these slate knives in Bulletin 18, New York State Museum, and says as to their distribution: “In some parts of Canada they are about as common as in New York, being most abundant on both sides of Lake Ontario. They have not been reported east of Lake Champlain, except in its immediate vicinity, with the exception of one in Maine, nor do they reach more than half way southward to the Pennsylvania line.”

Perhaps that class of implements known as gouges is more common in the Champlain valley than elsewhere. These objects are of various proportions, some being long and slender, others short and wide, but whatever the shape, there is always the U-shaped groove which gives the name. This groove may extend only a short distance from the cutting edge as in the ordinary carpenter’s gouge, or it may go from end to end. The gouges are usually fashioned from moderately soft stone though some are of that which is very hard. They are generally well finished and some are so regular in form and so beautifully smoothed and polished that they are not surpassed by any specimens that we have. As a rule they are of medium size, six or eight inches long, but most elegantly finished specimens are in our museums that are fourteen to twenty inches long.

What are called celts or hand axes are more numerous and, as a class, somewhat ruder than the gouges, though some of them are as finely made as possible.

Like the gouges the celts were rubbed and ground into shape, except in very rare cases, when a very hard stone was shaped by flaking. They are generally not more than four or five inches long, though some have been found that are twice this size. The material is usually some sort of very hard stone.

Of ruder sort than other implements are the numerous hammers. Often these are merely water smoothed river or beach pebbles upon which no[253] work at all has been expended, and the only proof of human usage is seen in the battered ends. More rarely the hammer has been worked over its whole surface. Of course hammers or other implements used for pounding would not ordinarily be carried on long journeys and consequently would not be likely to be found far from a somewhat permanent camp. Hence, although very abundant in a few localities, these objects are not widely distributed. And the same is true of the boiling stones, which are of the same sort as the hammer stones, the difference being that the latter bear the bruises caused by their use, while the pebbles which were heated and thrown into the earthenware pots to heat the water show evidence of being heated, but no abrasion.

The hammer stone when long and more or less slender becomes a pestle. Pestles are not common though in all a considerable number have been found in the Champlain valley. Some of these are only five or six inches long, and from this size they may be found of various lengths and weights to those over two feet long and weighing nearly thirty pounds. Some of these large pestles are finely shaped and of hard stone, so that great labor must have been expended in their making.

Several so-called pestles have been found in the region we are considering which are especially interesting because they are not only well shaped, but at one end they are carved to resemble the head of some animal. These are long and slender and should probably be regarded as clubs rather than pestles.

Without some sort of mortar the pestle would be of little use, and where one is found the other may be expected. Yet it is noticeable that mortars are very uncommon in this region. Some very excellent examples have been found, but more often little labor was expended upon the mortars beyond that necessary to hollow out the cavity. This cavity was in some cases hollowed on one side only, but often there was made a hollow on each side. These were usually circular and several inches deep, but in some of the largest mortars the hollowed portion is oval and more or less irregular. Naturally the mortars would be of considerable weight, from ten to fifty pounds.

[254]

The most common axe or hatchet was undoubtedly the celt or hand axe, already mentioned, but for heavier work larger axes were needed, and these are found, though not in large numbers. These larger axes may be six, eight or ten inches long and weigh several pounds, though we have none as large as many which have been found in the west and south. Some are very rude, others very carefully shaped and well finished. All have a groove around them by which a handle could be more firmly attached. These large grooved axes seem to us very clumsy and inefficient tools, but Champlain in his account of making a camp for the night on one of the large islands in the lake, says that his Indian companions cut down large trees with these “meschantes haches,” so that they were certainly much more useful than they appear to us to be.

There is a class of objects which seem to be more or less problematical. They are of very different shape, but always quite unlike objects designed for use as implements; always well and often very finely made and finished and of handsome material. These occur on both sides of the lake and form the chief treasures of collections. They are some of them suitable for ornament or for ceremonial purposes, but some do not appear designed for any known use. Nevertheless they are fashioned with such care and are so attractive in themselves that it is not possible to regard them as unimportant to those who made them. By different writers they have been called as they are of one form or another—ceremonial stones, banner stones, gorgets, etc. And it is more than probable that some were used as indicated by these names, but some of them are quite puzzling. The flat pieces of slate or other stone which are included among the specimens mentioned are usually drilled once or twice and were apparently attached to the clothing or hung about the neck as ornaments. Others, the so-called banner stones, are thicker, of harder material, semi-lunar or more or less crescent shape and have a large hole bored through the middle. It is possible, but not certain, that these were in some way badges of office. A very few of the so-called birdshead stones have also been found.

The discoidal stones, found especially in the south, are very rare in the Champlain valley. A few rather rough specimens have been found, but[255] I have seen only one really fine specimen and this is small, about two and a half inches in diameter, of white quartz and very finely made.

Stone and earthenware pipes, some of them of very interesting form and finely polished are not numerous, but a goodly number have been found. The earthenware pipes are of various shape, a few tubular, more with bowl and stem, much like the modern pipe. The stone pipes are very variable in form, no two being alike, but as elsewhere, finely finished. Yet the pipes of the Champlain valley are much less elaborate than those from the mounds or other localities, and none of the earthenware specimens are effigies, or with head-shaped bowls, such as are found in New York west of the Adirondacks.

A very interesting form of pipe has been found in Swanton, on the Vermont side of the lake. A dozen or more of these have been obtained. They are simply straight tubes of stone from seven to twelve inches long and about an inch in diameter. They very closely resemble the tubular pipes of the Pacific coast and South America.

It is noticeable that the pipes of the Champlain valley rarely imitate any human or animal form. I know of only one which resembles an animal and two or three which bear on the bowl the human face.

Of earthenware or pottery a very great variety has been found. In this more than in any of the stone objects we are able at least partially to separate the Algonkian from the Iroquoian. The earthenware of the Champlain valley is sometimes almost without decoration, but by far the greater portion was ornamented at least about the rim and usually over much of the upper portion and sometimes even inside the upper part for one or two inches below the rim. No animal or human form is found in any specimen. The form is always globular below, the rim being contracted and variously shaped. In some cases the rim is quadrangular or five or six sided, although as stated, the lower part is always globular. Whole jars are, as is to be expected, very rare, but three fine specimens from Vermont are in the University Museum and one was in the fine collection of Dr. D. S. Kellogg of Plattsburgh, which was found near that[256] place.[3] Large fragments, in some instances almost enough to reconstruct a whole jar, have been found on both sides of the valley. For the most part the pottery of the region is in fragments from the size of one’s hand to mere bits not larger than a pea. These fragments have been found in very great quantity. A short distance north of Plattsburgh near what is locally called “The Creek,” there were evidently many jars made, for some years ago the sand blown off revealed the old fireplaces where the pots were burned and an immense number of fragments were picked up. The decoration is in all cases indented, none in relief. It consists of all sorts of figures, crescents, key-shaped figures, circles, dots, triangles, squares, zigzags, etc., and groups of lines, arranged in every conceivable fashion, all stamped or drawn on the clay when it was soft. Some of the patterns are really very attractive and done with no little skill. Only by the aid of plates can any adequate idea of the variety and elegance of these designs or of the earthenware as a whole be given.

In quality the Champlain valley pottery varies as in every other respect. Some of it is of the finest paste and carefully burned; some is of very coarse material and more carelessly burned. Over the surface of most specimens after the piece was shaped and perhaps partly dried, a thin, smooth paste was added which covered the ruder mass of which the jar was mainly composed. As to the size of most of the jars it is only possible to give an approximate measure because of their fragmentary condition, but, with those that are entire and the larger fragments as guides, it may be said that they varied from those holding a pint to those holding ten quarts. As to what may be called the nationality of the pottery, it may be noticed that while there is much resemblance there are important differences. The entire jars and the finest of the fragments are to be regarded as made by Iroquois, while the simpler forms, especially those found on the eastern side of the valley are Algonkian. While the work of the Iroquois is[257] superior to that of the Algonkins, yet when it is remembered that all of the pottery was made entirely by hand, the regularity of form and general excellence are remarkable.

Soapstone dishes, such as are common in some parts of New England, are also found here, but they are very infrequent and always badly broken. Soapstone is not uncommon on the Vermont side of the valley, but the ancient residents seem to have preferred to use pots of earthenware.

Bone was probably used by the aborigines to a much greater extent than now appears, for this material was used to so great an extent by other tribes and is so readily fashioned into certain classes of implements and was always at hand that it would surely have been a common material for many of the smaller implements, such as awls, needles, points for marking pottery, fishing spears and the like.

Until within a few years only a very few bone objects of any sort had been found, but recently quite a number of various sorts have been found on the east shore of the lake and a few on the west. Some of these are like the many-barbed spear points of the Eskimo, but most are the ordinary awls, blunt points, etc. These latter were probably used mainly for drawing the lines and figures on the unbaked pottery. Canine teeth of the bear were carefully and evidently with no little labor cut or ground until half was removed and the remaining half brought to a sharp edge. As would be expected, objects of shell are uncommon and all that have been found are marine and from southern species. The little marginella conoidalis of the Carolina coast was used whole, evidently as beads, and the columella of the ordinary conch was cut into large beads an inch or more long and nearly as much in diameter. Like the beads made from the marginella these were perforated longitudinally and the surface ground smooth. These shell beads are interesting because they are proof of traffic between the northern and southern tribes. Bits of coral several inches long, the surface smoothed, have been found and furnish added evidence of trade with other tribes, as none of these materials can be obtained from northern waters.

[258]

Native copper is not found nearer the Champlain valley than Lake Superior, and here again we find proof of traffic with distant tribes, for copper implements and ornaments of different sorts have been found in several localities on both sides of the lake. Spear points, knives, celts, gouges made from copper, beaten into shape, have been found, and one large specimen weighing thirty-eight ounces, a celt eight inches long, was evidently cast in a mould. This was found a few years ago at the mouth of Otter creek, on the Vermont shore.

Besides those objects, which were for use as tools, there are copper bars, which were probably ornaments, and small beads made by beating the metal into sheets and rolling pieces of the thin copper into cylinders. We cannot know much as to the age of the objects thus far mentioned. It is certain that their use reaches back centuries before the coming of the white men, but how far into the remote past of this country none may say. When we find anything made from iron, however, there is no difficulty in assigning it an age, since the French adventurers came to the American wilderness and bartered their hatchets and other articles of iron for that which they needed from the savages. Queer shaped axes or tomahawks, pipes, etc., are now and then found always much rusted, but always of interest.

In the preceding pages there has not been any attempt to give more than a summary of what has been found during the past fifty or seventy-five years in the Champlain valley, which illustrates somewhat the life and handicraft of those to whom the region belonged before it was taken from them by the incoming Europeans.

Those who may care to pursue the subject further are referred to Dr. Beauchamp’s writings in Bulletins 16, 22, 50, 89 of the New York State Museum and to articles by the writer of this paper in the American Anthropologist, Vol. 11, pp. 607-623, plates XXIX-XXXVII; Vol. 13, pp. 239-249, plates XII-XVII; Vol. 14, pp. 72-80, plates I-V, also Seventh Report Vermont State Geologist, pp. 55-73, plates V-XVIII.


[261]

V. FINANCIAL STATEMENT

Albany, N. Y., May 26, 1913.

To the Comptroller of the State of New York:

Pursuant to chapter 181 of the Laws of 1911, as amended by chapter 273 of the Laws of 1912, we, the undersigned Commissioners, submit herewith a full report of all receipts and disbursements of the Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission of the State of New York, as of the date of May 26, 1913.

Very respectfully,
H. Wallace Knapp, Chairman
Henry W. Hill, Secretary
Walter C. Witherbee, Treasurer
John H. Booth
Louis C. Lafontaine
James J. Frawley
James A. Foley
James Shea
John B. Riley
Howland Pell
William R. Weaver

Commissioners

[262]

Report of W. C. Witherbee, Treasurer, New York—Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission, as of May 26, 1913.

Received from United States Government $20,000 00
By vouchers on file in Washington 20,000 00
Received from
State Treasurer $125,833 72
Vermont Commission account Crown Point Memorial 13,325 00
Vermont Commission account cost of barges 2,000 00
Hudson-Fulton Commission account cost of barges 6,000 00
Sale of six barges 2,244 00
S. H. P. Pell—sale of dock at Ticonderoga 500 00
M. J. Farrell account sale of badges 1,395 00
W. W. Richards account sale of grandstand at Ticonderoga 97 44
W. F. Miller account sale of badges 97 07
Henry W. Hill account sale of badges 25 10
Presbyterian Church, Whitehall 4 76
Parkhurst & Taylor, insurance rebate 8 73
Conscience money 1 00
H. W. Knapp, refund of transportation 3 76
Booth Bros. & H. I. G. Co. account overpayment of voucher No. 485 to them 46 92
$151,582 50
By vouchers on file with State Comptroller $149, 936 15
By cash on hand, retained for Secretary of Commission, for expenses incurred and to be incurred in connection with finishing and distributing reports, and to be accounted for in final report (estimated). 200 00
By cash on hand, retained for Plattsburgh contract accepted by the Commission, for retaining wall not yet completed,—vouchers to accompany final report 1,346 35
(See accompanying letters.)
By check to State Treasurer 100 00
$151,582 50

[263]

State of New York, }
County of Essex, } ss.:

WALTER C. WITHERBEE, being duly sworn, deposes and says that the above is a true statement of the moneys received and expended by him as Treasurer of the New York—Lake Champlain Tercentenary Commission.

WALTER C. WITHERBEE.

Sworn to and signed before me this 26th day of May, 1913.

Halford E. Kidder,
Notary Public, Essex County.

Statement of Cost of Memorials

Crown Point
Booth Bros. & Hurricane Isle Granite Co.:
Contract for general work $34,850 00
Additional foundations 323 00
Model for carved work 50 00
Lower flight granite steps 2,925 00
Glass for lantern 125 00
Corbel for Rodin bust 56 10
Bronze hook, staple and lock for gallery door 16 50
Freighting, hauling and erecting models 35 00
Freighting, hauling and erecting bronze 95 00
Concrete paving 745 00
$39,220 60
Statuary contract—Charles Augustus Heber 9,000 00
Architect’s fees—Dillon, McLellan & Beadel 2,893 23
Amount allowed for concrete wall at base of steps 200 00
Total $51,313 83
Plattsburgh
Booth Bros. & Hurricane Isle Granite Co. $10,366 42
Statuary contract—Charles Augustus Heber 6,775 00
Architect’s fees—Dillon, McLellan & Beadel 1,714 14
Ralph L. Signor, surveyor 60 35
Express and duty on plans— Ottawa to Plattsburgh 1 25
Amount allowed for retaining wall 1,346 35
$20,263 51
Grand total $71,577 34
CHARLES ALEXANDER NELSON
Indexer

[267]

ANALYTICAL INDEX

Compiled by

Charles Alexander Nelson, A. M., Head Reference Librarian (Retired) of Columbia University



FOOTNOTES:

[1] There has recently appeared from the press of Small, Maynard & Company, publishers of Boston, Mass., an English version of “Art” by Auguste Rodin, containing 106 illustrations in halftone and photogravure.

It is a most important contribution to the literature of “Art” by one of the greatest living sculptors. It covers practically the whole range of art and abounds in the analyses of the works of the masters of painting and sculpture, ancient and modern.

[2] It will be recalled that the Portuguese navigator, Antonio Galvão, as early as 1528, proposed to Charles V, that interoceanic communication be opened across the Isthmus of Panama and that in 1550, he is said to have published a book to demonstrate that such a canal could be constructed at Tehuantepec Nicaragua, Panama or Darien. In 1551 Francisco Lopez de Gómara urged Philip II of Spain to proceed with the undertaking without delay. (See Francisco Lopez de Gómara Hist. Gen’l. Lib. 4, Cap. 14, Larousse Encyclopædic Dictionary. Encyclopædia Britannica, 11th Edition, vol. xx., pp. 666-667.)

[3] Dr. David Sherwood Kellogg made a collection of 2,500 chipped stone implements from the shores at Ticonderoga, Wright’s Point and Orwell. He also collected at Fort Ticonderoga 575 wrought flints in one day. See his Paper read before the Vermont Historical Society entitled “Early mention of some events and places in the valley of Lake Champlain,” published in the Proceedings of the Vermont Historical Society for 1901-1902.


TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE

Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within the text and consultation of external sources.

Some hyphens in words have been silently removed, some added, when a predominant preference was found in the original book.

Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text, and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained.

Pg ix: ‘View of Robin Bust’ replaced by ‘View of Rodin Bust’.
Pg 13: ‘an allegorial bust’ replaced by ‘an allegorical bust’.
Pg 61: ‘il y quelque’ replaced by ‘il y a quelque’.
Pg 62: ‘ici un parellèle’ replaced by ‘ici un parallèle’.
Pg 62: ‘aux temps aù César’ replaced by ‘aux temps où César’.
Pg 63: ‘se trouvre le’ replaced by ‘se trouve le’.
Pg 103: ‘the forteress of’ replaced by ‘the fortress of’.
Pg 188: ‘principal commorative’ replaced by ‘principal commemorative’.
Pg 188: ‘events occuring’ replaced by ‘events occurring’.
Pg 191: ‘descendents of the tribes’ replaced by ‘descendants of the tribes’.
Pg 228: ‘Sewell S. Cutting’ replaced by ‘Sewall S. Cutting’.
Pg 233: ‘after Fulton’ steamer’ replaced by ‘after Fulton’s steamer’.
Pg 239: First character of chapter II made a ‘drop-cap’ for consistency.
Pg 243: First character of chapter III made a ‘drop-cap’ for consistency.
Pg 247: ‘Professor Ceorge’ replaced by ‘Professor George’.
Pg 248: ‘from the Mississquoi’ replaced by ‘from the Missisquoi’.